UGLY FAT MAGAZINE by UGLY FAT

UGLY FAT MAGAZINE

NEW BEGINNINGS issue 1

People Editor - Tue Elkjær. Words - Joanna Maria Widz, Sandra Vinding, Simone Meron. Photos - Alexander Nyrop, Anja Ekstrøm, Anne Kilde Bajwa, Diana Lovring, Inesa Adamonyte, Pernille Vinkler, Thomas Loevring. Styling - Sigrid Wøhler, Tue Elkjær. Makeup and/or hair - Anna Buhl Christensen, Charlotte Stage, Danni Sigen, E.L.F Cosmetics Denmark, Isabella Bursche.

Special thanks to: 9PR By Dot Cph Camille Courchaine E.L.F Cosmetics Denmark Emilie Delance Etoile Models Holm & Bertung House of Communication iiL7 Michael Sølbæk Modelbooking Polka So Long As It Is Black

Front page Photografer - Diana Lovring Model - Emilia Herrik Stylist - Tue Elkjær Makeup and hair - Charlotte Stage

Content Letter from the Editor - page 4 Thoughts about new beginnings - page 9 New Generals - page 12 Icon City - page 16 David Andersen - page 23 Miss Mia - page 28 Less label-lovinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, moâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; attitude - page 33 Fresh Faces - page 37 By Dot Copenhagen - page 50 Awesome Adrogyny - page 56 Visiting MUUSE - page 66 Mark Kenly Domino Tan - page 70 La dolce vita - page 74 Musthaves - page 78

Letter from the editor Picture by Diana Lovring

NEW BEGINNINGS -YESTERDAY, TODAY AND TOMORROW The first month of the year has nearly passed, and some have already broken their New Year resolutuions while others have begun new habits and enterprises and in relation to the new year, UGLY FAT launches itsself as an online magazine. This issue is the first issue ever of UGLY FAT magazine and it marks a new beginning, for me especially, but I hope also for you readers. But because this is the first issue, introductions is in order. UGLY FAT magazine is part of the newly started UGLY FAT styling and design company, which is working with clothing both in media and in real life. This is a magazine and company with multiple skills, ambition and aesthetic views. Even though beginning a magazine and a company is pretty low scale compared to things like mythologically creating life, then UGLY FAT is trying to stand out and create a magazine that differs from the rest. UGLY FAT means to display the urban danish fashion scene, both high end and more underground, without dictating what you readers should wear or look like and without mindlessly reporting labels or fading trends. Instead UGLY FAT is all about eclectic and inspirational style, taking inspiration from classic cultural icons. About the name - it was picked, partly as a private joke between friends, partly as a comment to the fashion industry, that often hides everything that isn’t “desireable” and partly as a reminder of the self critism that hides behind ambition - after all, Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly and Diana Spencer - all huge icons, all very ambitous and inspired millions of people, and all suffering from self critism and eating disorders. After all, who doesn’t know the feeling of looking yourself in the mirror and disapproving what we see. Ideology and ambition can be both uplifting and destuctive - depending on how we carry it out. the name; UGLY FAT, is a reminder of that - if you fly to high up in the sky, you’ll burn your wings of and fall to your freaking death - but then again, it’ll look fabulous.

enjoy the rain, stay dry.

refreshingly dry rum

www.secrid.com

please enjoy responsibly

www.edrington.dk

Thoughts about new beginnings - with a sidekick of God Words by Joanna Maria Widz

Let us start at the beginning with God, the creator of all. God really had it easy. When he started out his business there were no beginnings and therefore inventing a great new beginning could not have been too hard. There were simply no other beginnings to compare with, so the first beginning, the beginning of it all, would be the first new beginning no matter what else it turned out to be. If the bible had read â&#x20AC;&#x153;In the beginning God created blueâ&#x20AC;? it would still have been a good beginning. He chose to create the earth and the sky, luckily for us, and as the bible notes, he saw himself that it was good. But again how could it not be good. It is too bad for us today that we will never be able to create a beginning with the same impact on the world as the famous words that started it all. This was the very first new beginning of all the new beginnings to come and mankind itself began as well. And here we are now, on this planet we named Earth, living our lives in a modern society trying to make a sense of it all but to tell the truth: God was quite evil. He gave us free will and the opportunity to start new beginnings ourselves and that was a mistake. Surely he must have known, being almighty and omniscient and all that, that having this kind of power is a source to great worry and pain for a simple human being. Take a blank page! Everyone knows how troubling a blank page is and the time you use on worrying, staring at its whiteness, which makes it even harder to begin! When every new day in your life is like a blank page you really take the starring and worrying to a whole new level wasting your precious life. Luckily some new beginnings are unconscious and almost fluent, simply happening all around us without us even noticing and some we do notice, but without being able to do anything about them. As we cannot stop time, not yet anyway, New Year â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Eve is pretty predictable and a new beginning many look forward to. It marks an era quite clearly stating that we are moving from one year to another. I guess it is because of the amplitude of the step, calenderwise, that this new beginning inspires so many people to start their own new beginnings.

And this is another fail with God inventing the new beginning, as most people quickly give up on their new beginnings. All the good intentions, eating healthier or exercising more often or even the resolutions where you promise yourself to call your parents once a week or simply say “thank you”, more frequently are not succeeding, turning an extensive cluster of the population of Earth into failures and fiascoes. I read once that one of the main reasons for this is unrealistic or imprecise goals. Some resolutions go no further than being thought of and are never really lived out. In a sense we become the beginning of the end of what would have been a great new beginning, if you take my meaning… So, many beginnings are hard, both to make up and to see through, but on the other hand, it does not have to be a bad thing. We do not think of New Year’s Eve as a bad thing but as an opportunity and although failing our resolutions is not a very positive line of thinking we can always try again next year. I think trying is a key word here. Why? Because ultimately trying gives you power to change, and as I read on a New Year’s Eve card from Star trek on Facebook: “Change is the essential process of all existence”. That might also have been the reason for God to start it all and to give us the ability to start new beginnings - so that we could basically keep on changing and keep on existing. I learned once in religion class that even God changes throughout the bible from being an evil motherfucker - sorry for my language -, laughing viciously before exterminating people to a forgiving, loving and caring old guy. By the way, does it not say somewhere that we were created in his image? I would like to end this short article by making two notions clear: Firstly, maybe God created new beginnings so that mankind would not feel under pressure. I know that some would disagree (having read Giddens) and claim that we are under pressure because of all the new beginnings we constantly have to make, but I do think there are some nuances between new beginnings and choices. The cool thing about new beginnings, conscious or unconscious and minor or major, is that we can always make up a new one. Although there are consequences as every action must have a reaction it does not mean that we cannot start again. By inventing new beginnings God really gave us a restart button. If it did not work, well, then begin from scratch or start on something else. “Over” in “game over” does not have to mean “finished” but might just as well mean “do it over” or “again”. Now, is that not a nice thought? As it started with a beginning, it continues with new beginnings and they do not have to be perfect. Not according to

Spock, nor to me anyway. Secondly, I do know that a lot of you guys out there probably do not believe in God, but hey, we that do are fortunate! We are promised a whole new beginning even when we die! I would give that thumps up any day! So to wrap it all up: Whether you are a believer or not, live long and prosper and use that free will of yours to make changes through new beginnings. Or you might as well stop existing now cause I will tell God for sure!

NEW GENERALS And the rest of the family Words by Tue Elkjær New Generals is a childrens clothing label that is all about childrens fashion, with emphasis on fashion. New Generals is not your average run of the mill childrens clothing label, they don’t dress up children to look like angels or bunnies or anything like that. On the contrary, New Generals has the standard of any respectable fashion label for grownups, with a focus on aesthetic appeal, label continuity and that certain “je nais ce quoi“, that any substantial fashion label has.

What is so liberating about New Generals clothing is that it isn’t cutesy, New Generals makes fashion apparel for children, that accentuates children as individuals, without copying grown-up fashion or making children look like a pastel-colored meringue (can I get a hallelujah).

But not only is New Generals fashion forward and stylish, New Generals cares about corporate social responsibility, and what could be more appropriate for a childrens clothing company, than taking responsibility for the way it does business. New Generals has a policy to act with responsibility, love and integrity – which frankly seems to be the kind of values we should be teaching the future generations.

The company is sustainable all the way, using organic materials, believing in fairness towards employees, minimizing transportation and advising it’s consumers to wash the clothes at 30 degrees celsius to minimize energy consumption. New Generals childrens clothing is both ethical and cool, which is why New Generals describe themselves as ethicool, and the world seems to agree. New Generals is enjoying an international demand and therefor made plans to open 32 stores in China in the course of the next five years, furthermore New Generals is sold in the exclusive Barneys in New York. Yes, New Generals is a global fashion label in its own right.

New Generals is a subdivision of the danish company; “Sort”, for those of you who doesn’t know, “sort”, means black in danish. “Sort” was started in 2011 by the danish power couple Majbrit and Joen Weidemann. The couple have both worked amply in the danish fashion industry in various positions, which has given them a rich and varied experience with the fashion market.

When you look at New Generals, what might stand out, is the continuous use of black, which is rather unusual and refreshing to see in childrens wear. But Majbrit and Joen Weidemann is themselves nearly always dressed in black, the color black is a defining part of their style and their lives, so it is not surprising to see it shine through in their work with childrens wear.

Majbrit and Joen Weidemann also has an online magazine called So Long As It Is Black, shortened to SLAIIB. The magazine was created by the couple in order to share their passion for the color black and all the kick-ass black items they came across in their daily life. So the magazine came to life as a platform for the passion of black.

SLAIIB is named by Henry Ford’s famous quote; ”Any costumer can have a car painted any color that he wants so long as it is black.”, Henry Fords statement complements So Long As It Is Black, because the magazine is about anything cool, as long as it is black, a statement which is featured in the SLAIIB magazine logo.

I personally had the pleasure to work with Majbrit, the first time was in 2010, when she was arranging David Andersen AW10, while I was an intern at David Andersen. But I have also worked for her as a writer for SLAIIB and I very much admirer her work ethic and I can very much vouch, that the company, “Sort” does indeed believe in fairness towards employees.

As a conclusion I must say, that what Majbrit and Joen Weidemann seem to excel in doing is combining recognizable fashion symbols, like the color black, and using it in new ways that works for themselves, their children and apperently the rest of the world. Their passion shines through in all their businesses.

However, it is said that greatness stand for a fall, and as this issue was finished, the company New Generals called it quits and declared bankruptcy due to limited a cash flow, which made it unpossible for the company to supply to demands. However the bankruptcy came slowly enough for New Generals to slowly give their employees their notice and so only the owners of the corporation will experience a financiel loss. As part of their closing the company, New General gave this public explanation via Facebook:

“NEW GENERALS CLOSES New Generals Board has decided to terminate the operation of the company. New Generals spring/summer 2014 collection, which has just been delivered to the company’s dealers, will be the last of the innovative children’s wear brand. In a very short time, the Danish brand has achieved impressive results and great recognition in the industry with a unique mix of avant-garde fashion, sharp branding and sustainable organic production. The company has achieved tremendous growth, especially in overseas markets, and this growth has proven too strong for the company to be able to sustain operations. “ To build a brand like New Generals has been a fantastic experience, but it became apparent that that the capital demands of the massive growth exceeded our available resources. To meet the high demand for New Generals especially from remote markets, we have been working on raising capital for a very long time, but we had to realise that the company’s capital base is not large enough to support such rapid growth, and after a long struggle we have decided to stop the activity. It is incredibly frustrating that there is found no economically viable solution, but we do not believe that we can meet the high demand without capital, and we’ll stop rather before the company becomes insolvent. It is a dream we had, my husband and I, and it’s a shame that it did not succeed. “ Majbrit Weidemann, CEO New Generals was founded in 2011 by branding experts Majbrit and Joen Weidemann. In 2012, New Generals was the first Danish children’s clothing brand sold in Barney’s in New York. New Generals have strategies and marketing more akin to adult fashion industry, achieved a meteoric growth in brand recognition, has retailers in 20 countries and in the summer of 2013 closed a contract with a distributor in China to open a number of New

Generals concept stores, starting with the first two in Beijing during 2014. Thank you and goodbye”

So apperently, despite New Generals sense of timeless style, the company itself is not as timeless. I’m deeply sorry to see this label off the market, but will remember New Generals for creating chrildrens wear with actual style. Alas, nothing lasts forever. I hope the companys demise, doesn’t mean that people will start to dress their children up like they’re cotten candy - here’s hoping.

ICON CITY I stumbled upon these pictures when I was putting together the storyboard for this issue. The pictures are from my first styling job ever, for the photographer Diana Lovring, whom I’d previously worked for as a model. I’ve just read the book Instant Icon, which discuss what makes a product or a meme into an icon. The book inspired me a lot, especially because I’ve always loved classic looks and movies, that border on the cliché,, looks like Chanels tweed suits or Dior’s New Look and movies like Casablanca or Breakfast at Tiffanys, and the book Instant Icon made me think of them in a new way. I’ve always been inspired by fashion and movies, because they both have tradition of iconografy. What I find in these cultural icons is a lifestyle that is extraordinary - and chic. That is why my first shoot back in 2010, was inspirered by cinema classics, with the sunglasses of Fellini, the extravagance of Audrey Hepburn and borrowed a little chic of Chanel, an icon if there ever was one.

Photografer - Diana Lovring Model - Emilia Herrik Stylist - Tue Elkjær Makeup and hair - Charlotte Stage

Coat - vintage Dress - custom made by Tue ElkjĂŚr Shoes - models own

Hat - stylists own

Coat - vintage Blazer - costum made by Tue ElkjĂŚr Dress - UGLY FAT showpiece Sunglasses - vintagebutikken.dk Hat - stylists own Shoes - models own

Top - UGLY FAT showpiece

Words by Tue Elkjær

DAVID ANDERSEN

The danish fashion designer David Andersen is known for making simplistic, black designs for men and women. His designs are very easy to recognize and is characterized by using lots of black, and being timelessly elegant, with a hint of showpiece allure and is easy to dress down or up according to occasion. Another attractive quality to the David Andersen label is that it offers clothing in a wide price range, so you can buy clothing customized in quality and service according to what you’re willing to spend. David Andersen, very democratically, produces clothing as ready-to-wear, made-to-measure and as couture pieces, for both sexes. To summarize: You don’t have to spend a fortune on a David Andersen outfit, but you can if you want to, and trust me, you will be tempted!

David Andersen is an international designer, born in Denmark, but educated as a designer from the renowned Glasgow School of Arts in Britain, and has worked as chief designer at the label Dreams by Isabell Kristensen, before making his debut with his own label in 2007.

The David Andersen label quickly became a success, in Denmark and internationally, causing him to win several awards, like for instance “Design talent of the year” at the

David Andersen SS14 - picture by Thomas Loevring

Danish Fashion Awards, in 2010 and 2011. This success may stem from his timeless and classically chic designs, with a mix of raw, rough hemmed details which is combined with an old school Christian-Dior-like-elegance.

Personally, his pieces has always reminded me of the poetic and discrete luxury you can find in old photos of the danish writer Karen Blixen and in the work of the danish painter Vilhelm Hammerhøi.

There is something wonderfully un-danish about David Andersen’s work as a designer, because he is not afraid to play with gender roles and the androgynous. That may be why his female and male lines seems to be in dialogue with each other, they’re not just complementing each other, but seems to be part of one united vision. For the David Andersen AW10 fashion show he even had female models, wearing the mens line on the catwalk.

But the designer David Andersen has his fingers in lots of pies, with collaborations with a wide variety of companies, like Copenhagen Fur, Batavus bicycles and Haribo. For example David Andersen designed dresses for Haribo, made from Haribo candy.

David Andersen has also produced a “Zero waste collection”, which is designed to minimize waste during production, which has led to a collection of clothes, with patterns designed to eliminate wasting fabric. Thereby “Zero waste” minimizes loss of materials in the production and creates a smaller need for materials, minimizes waste and is therefor more environmentally sustainable.

I had the pleasure to intern for the David Andersen company back in the summer of 2010, but I had followed him in the danish press a couple of years before then. From my personal experience with David Andersen I learned a lot from his work process, like his emphasis on textile handicraft and time efficiency. But what is impresses me most about David Andersen is his social competence, his personal style, which both classic and modern and last but not least his ability to stay elegant even under pressure.

David Andersen SS14 - picture by Thomas Loevring

Picture courtesy of E.L.F cosmetics Denmark

Miss Mia - A hula hooper Words by Tue Elkjær

If you’re in to having fun while getting fit and like old style glamour, you need to know the danish Hula Hoop dancer and instructor—and all time grand dame of hula hooping; Miss Mia. We corresponded with the danish queen of Hula Hoop Miss Mia, for an interview to spread the word of her good graces and to talk about style, music and of course Hula Hooping.

This issue is about new beginnings, do you have anything new your planning to do in your personal or professional life?

I’ve begun to create two new shows. A western hula hoop-show and a hula hoop ballet!

For how long have you been hula hooping? For 10 years

You have an intstructional hula hoop DVD out – could you tell us more about it? The dvd is for anyone who wants to learn hula hoop-tricks and dance. In lots of 50’s-pinup-outfits I show how to do amazing tricks as The Ball Gown,The Bracelets, The Double Bows and a lot more. With the dvd in your dvdplayer and a hula hoop, you can get fit in a fun way. It is made in danish, german and english.

Why did you feel the need to make the DVD, and what was it like to make? There was no hula hoop-dvd’s in the world for kids and adults. I thought it would be fun to make. And then I had a lot of ideas for tricks, costumes, backgrounds, speak and so on. It was fun, but it also took a lot of time – and cost me a lot of money.

What is your own favorite trick? My candyfloss-trick with 4 hoops.

What motivated you to work with hula hooping professionally, instead of having it as a hobby? It’s a huge privilege to be able to make my hobby into my job. Of course I would try it!

There aren’t many professional hula hoopers, how did you become a professional hula hoop dancer? A lot of training and a lot of work with costumes and stage props. After a few appearances I was lucky to make money on it too. I think that, also having a DVD in stores contributed to it.

You seem to be very diversified, hula hooping for/with both children, grown-up women

Picture courtesy of E.L.F cosmetics Denmark

and men, how do you relate to such a wide-ranged fan base? It makes me very happy when I see children and elderly people to my shows. This week, the youngest participant I have been teaching hula hoop was 6 years while the oldest 64 years old.

Do you listen to music when you hula hoop and do you have a favorite band or track for hula hooping? Yes, the surf band The Tremolo Beer Gut. I’ve performed with them a few times and love to hula hoop to their music! In the gym, I like to dance to 50s and 60s rock n’ roll, surf and metal. - “The Hula Hoop Song” of Georgia Gibbs is also very important to know!

You work with both entertainment and fitness. But how do you see yourself, do you see yourself more as an entertainer or a fitness coach? Both are important to me. I also believe that my shows get more people to participate in my training - and vice versa.

Do you have any role models, that gives you inspiration for your work? I believe that anything is possible if you work hard for it. And that you should not be afraid to think big. There my father is a great role model.

How would you define your personal clothing style? Colorful 50s-60s pinup-retro style.

Where do you get inspiration from, style wise? Women’s magazines from the 50s-60s and from the Internet. Yvonne from the ‘Olsen Banden’-movies also have a cool style! – and Marilyn Monroes style and show-outfits of course.

Who is your favorite designers, where do you shop for clothes? Laura Byrnes, Mitcheline Pitt from Pinup Couture and Tue Elkjær. I also buy clothes from stores like Mondo Kaos, Rock’ahula and from vintage shops.

The danish designer Tue Elkjær sew a lot of my stage costumes. I give him a drawing and some fabric and so he performs magic!

You’re based in Copenhagen, Denmark right now, but you’ve gotten some international attention, do you plan to work more internationally in the future? Yes I plan to make shows in the U.S.A, Germany, Sweden and many more places. I have also just got a new showbooker.

Are you working on a new hula hoop trick? Always.!

You gotta give it to Miss Mia, she’s a real lady, Mia is a woman of considerable elegance, wits and humor – yes, Miss Mia is a real lady, that reeks of chic. Personally, I’ve been lucky enough to know Mia, since 2011, when I met her while working for the inspirational super woman and clothing geek Camille Courchaine, who is a fantastic woman, I owe a great deal. It was here I started to work as a costume designer for Miss Mia and I still do so to this day.

LESS LABEL-LOVIN MO’ ATTITUDE In fashion there’s such a huge focus on who created what, when, that the person in the clothes sometimes gets forgotten. Don’t get us wrong, labels and designers are great, and definitely worth worshipping, but we still have to remember ourselves, and our identity without the apperal. Fashion is after all iconografic of inner values after all. So, for what it is worth, UGLY FAT is using this little editorial to depict attitude and confidence (and a littlle unrealistic fashion feel), without naming labels. Lets, just for a little while, focus on the attitude.

Photographer - Anja Ekstrøm / www.anjaekstroem.dk Model - Eva Christensen Makeup - Isabella Bursche Hair - Danni Sigen

FRESH FACES Cultural industries seems to be in constant motion and reinvention, not only in the medium of culture, but also by a constant stream of fresh talent that may or may not make it. We all know that cultural industries can be both hard and yet obsessed about new faces and new talents. So being up and coming, can be quite rough. Therefor UGLY FAT has interviewed four up and coming fresh faces, in order to honour their hard work and good style, and of course, to satisfy our own curiosities.

CHRISTIAN LAMPE

Picture by Anne Kilde Bajwa

For more info on Christian Lampe and his work, go to: www.facebook.com/ElevenCampaign www.elevencampaign.org/ vimeo.com/christianlampe

What is your job description? My job description is that of a film maker. I’m mostly interested in cinematography, but I have recently worked as a documentary director. As a director I formulate a creative vision and develop it further with my crew. I have a responsibility to direct the cinematographer and sound recordist towards the elements I’d like to be covered. I interview subjects and delve into their stories, so I can construct a narrative and create a film that makes sense for an audience. My job involves many phases and challenges and I especially find the editing process to be quite magical. It takes an incredible amount of patience, but I love the magic when a film slowly appears out of all the footage.

Tells us about your work? I have a strong interest in documentary films. My last two projects were both documentaries. My bachelor graduation film from Goldsmiths University (in London) was a documentary about freedom of speech on the internet. It was based on interviews with campaigners from Article 19, Index on Censorship and a commissioning editor from Channel 4. The documentary centred on two young men who had undergone trials for posting on twitter and facebook and we used the film to discuss how digital spheres are regulated in the UK. Right now I’m working on the Danish part of an international documentary about kids and football. It’s called “Eleven” and it’s divided in 11 parts, where 11 countries film one 11-year old kid playing football in their respective countries. The idea originates from London, where my friend Mihalis had an idea for a project to promote communication and unity instead of the racial controversies that has happened recently in international football. It’s a hugely ambitious project and I’m honoured to be part of this endeavour.

When did you decide to go into business for yourself, and why did you do it? In filmmaking it’s quite normal to work for yourself either in small companies or on a contractual basis. For “Eleven” I collaborated with a newly started production company, Awkward Film Productions in Copenhagen. The company is run by Annie and Kora, who contacted me and asked if I wanted to be the director of the Danish part of “Eleven”. In the near future I would like to get an internship at a small production company and

then possibly start a company in my own name, to get hired for small projects. But I expect to get jobs either through my professional network or by commissioning ideas to productions companies or foundations like the Danish Film Institute. What is your favorite thing about your job? I love working with others and the spontaneity of the shoot. I usually spend a long time in pre-production with my producer(s), where we seek talent for interviews, establish a crew, research and develop the story idea. Spontaneity requires a great deal of preparation. So I’m usually well prepared before an interview or going on shoot, but when it begins I try to follow the flow and see where my main characters lead me. My fascination for documentary lies in this balance between control and surrender to the now.

What do have of plans for your future, professional enterprises? Right now I’m fully concentrated on finishing “Eleven”. The Danish part was shot on money raised in London, but the remaining ten countries still need money for shooting, so we are running a kickstarter campaign in January. [kickstarter is a crowdfunding platform, where creative producers finance their ideas through many small donations]. Afterwards I’d like to pitch an idea for Storyhunter, which is an organisation that commissions short social or political documentaries from around the world.

Do you have any personal resolutions for the new year or the future in general? I’m always working on developing my film skills, but I will dedicate more of my time in 2014 to filmmaking. I have a few ideas for small projects. One of them could be about refund collectors in Copenhagen and how they work on the edges of the welfare state, but let’s see what happens.

Do you believe in new beginnings? Yes. But I don’t think they come easy. They require a strong will and intense dedication, but they’re not impossible, especially not if one’s environment is supportive. Actually I think making a promise to one’s peers can be very motivating to succeed with new beginnings. The expectation from others can sometimes be a great encouragement for me. So that would be my advice, if anyone’s asking.

TIBBE SMITH

Picture by Pernille Vinkler

For more info on Tibbe Smith and her work, go to: www.tibbesmith.com www.designkollektivet.dk/ www.facebook.com/Designkollektivet?fref=ts

What is your job description? I am studying Sustainable Fashion at KEA, and besides from that I am working on my own fashion label, Tibbe Smith (tibbesmith.com) I am also co-founder at Designkollektivet (designkollektivet.dk), and project worker at Clean Clothes Campaign (cleanclothes.org).

Tell us about your work? With my studies and my work I am exploring sustainability in relation to fashion from different angles, both socially and environmentally and as my brand develops I want to incorporate my knowledge and experiences in my own work. My style expresses an urge to experiment and play, which is combined with inspiration from the rockâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;roll universe bohemian layers and a Nordic minimalism.

When did you decide to go into business for yourself, and why did you do it? Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve always wanted to be independent, working with my designs and being able to be true to my own aesthetics and values.

What is your favourite thing about your job? It is being creative. Working with shapes and fabrics, exploring what can come to life from the collaboration between hands and fabric and body.

What do have of plans for your future, professional enterprises? I want to develop my own brand as well as working with promoting sustainability within the fashion industry in different contexts.

Do you have any personal resolutions for the New Year or the future in general? Be happy, doing what I love and keeping up a good yoga routine.

Do you believe in new beginnings? I absolutely do. An expression I like is â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;change is the only constantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. Every second things change a little, not remarkably, not something that anybody will notice, just a little. I think this is a reminder that every second you get a change to have a new beginning, to create the life you want to live and be the person you want to be.

PELLE MØLLER

Picture by Inesa Adamonyte

For more info on Pelle Møller and his work, go to: www.4slagssort.com Search Spotify for artist Pelle Møller

What is your job description? Project leader, Musician, Rapcoach and text consultant!

Tells us about your work? I’ve been rapping for aprox. 10 years and counting. In 2010 I Joined the non-profit Organisation Rapolitics, where I’ve been teaching youngsters how to express them selve lyrically through music. This has led me to meet a ton of amazing people from around the globe, performing and recording with musicians from every corner of the world. Since 2012 I’ve been working as a project leader for Rapolitics, as well as a text consultant for Livsbanen, the rapschool and creative playhouse for the legendary Jesper Wildmand!

When did you decide to go into business for your self, and why did you do it? My experiences as consultant and coach, as well as my work as a musician has led me to establish my own ways of making a living. I’m thrilled of having a great deal of freedom in my work, which is rejuvenating but comes at a price of self discipline and chaotic work hours.

What is your favorite thing about your job? I’m feeling very blessed to be doing things that stacked together, sums up all of my interests. My work as a coach and consultant is greatly inspired by my own experiences with creative ways of expression and I believe that everybody has the right to express themselves and being heard.

What do have of plans for your future, professional enterprises? My goal for 2014 is to start my own business group, to gather all of my activities under a single brand. You guys have any fresh idea for the Company name?

Do you have any personal resolutions for the new year or the future in general? In 2014 I have a lot of different projects. I’m doing a book with Rapolitics, recording a lot of new music with my band and hopefully getting a more established business.

Do you believe in new beginnings? I firmly believe that itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s never too late to start over. Many people get unhapyy because they see their life as a straight road and keep getting frustrated by not knowing where it leads. Always go the way you feel is right and accept that thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s always time for another adventure.

CCK JEWELLERY CHARLOTTE KOPPEL

Picture courtesy of CCK JEWELLERY

For more info on Charlotte Koppel and her work, go to: www.cckjewellery.dk https://www.facebook.com/pages/CCK-Jewellery/141078596089992?fref=ts

What is your job description? I am a jewellery designer, graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2012

Tells us about your work? The ‘Screw You’ collection came about when I was writing a thesis on conflict diamonds. This made me replace all diamonds in my designs with screws, leading me to the straightforward and humoristic interpretation of otherwise quite classic jewellery designs. My work can be quite minimalistic and straightforward, like with the ‘Screw You’ collection. Or it can be big and bold, like with the big kinetic body pieces. I like first creating really bold pieces of jewellery and then extracting the essence of the idea in order to create something petite and delicate.

When did you decide to go into business for yourself, and why did you do it? It seemed like the most natural thing to do after having assisted other designers. It officially happened a year ago this Christmas and it still feels like the most natural thing I could be doing.

What is your favorite thing about your job? Getting up in the morning not knowing what might come your way!

What do have of plans for your future, professional enterprises? To grow and develop and to continue to create jewellery that brings a smile to peoples face and love in their life.

Do you have any personal resolutions for the new year or the future in general? My new year resolution is to make more time to experiment with materials… and then there’s that gym membership card that hasn’t seen the light of day for months.

Do you believe in new beginnings? Always! Imagine what life you would be like if you didn’t! You never know what’s coming at you!

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BY DOT COPENHAGEN - SHOES FOR NEW ADVENTURES Words by Sandra Vinding

By Dot Copenhagen is by all means a new beginning. It’s a brand new brand! As it comes with most beginnings everything is kind of new – an adventure into the exciting unknown. For these young people the true adventure is all about creating a new product that should be nothing but a pleasant experience for the customer. It is with these young creators, as it is with many other creative creatures; they all want to make the best product possible. But from idea to actually having made the best product is a far far way. The little brand By Dot Copenhagen came into the world in november 2013, but have been a work in progress since february 2013, selling their shoes at Finders Keepers and in a little shop called Travel at Blågårdsgade where you can also find the most lovely vintage clothes. But already from next month it will be possible to buy the shoes all over Copenhagen, in 5 different stores. Not only is the shoes available in Denmark, they are also spreading all over Italy and will soon be for sale in their own webshop. So no more excuses for not wearing cool shoes and walking all over the streets of Copenhagen looking cool in the upcoming spring! A cold day in december we found our way to the little office at Blågårdsgade where it all takes place and met up with two of the persons behind By Dot Copenhagen - Stefano & Frederika. Prepared with a stack of questions and a big curios mind, we are very excited to find out more about these new shoes and the great minds behind them. When you chose to make the shoe business your way of life, there is a lot of things to think about for Stefano and co. it is very important to make a great product that they can be proud of and the customer will enjoy for a long time. Quality is one of the companies key words and as Stefano puts it - “When I have to sell something, the most important thing is that the customer have to be happy”. They use a lot of energy on making sure that the customer knows what he gets; the shoes are great quality leather and need a bit of care and some, like the Dessert Boots, don’t do well in rain. But nothing is hid from the customer. All the shoes are made in Europe and at this time the factory is in Spain.

Picture by Sandra Vinding

It is important for them that the shoes are made under great conditions, which is something that’s in focus these days with CSR as the new big thing! Everybody in the company have been at the factory and knows exactly how the shoes are - and with the shoes they sell right now, a lot of the work is actually hand made. Besides making sure that the production takes place under great terms, making sure only to use the best leather to a long life of the shoe - the design and the price is two very central pieces in the puzzle of the little shoe business. But it is not without problems making it all work together. The whole idea behind the company was to make a great shoe for walking while still looking great and classy, but not something too expensive or overpriced. It should be something of good quality and price, that people would be confidential with and would like to come back to again - “...A classy evergreen where price and quality stay together.” says Stefano. Even though it might sound like a bulletproof plan there are always bumps on the road that’s hard to predict. In this case it have been a matter of trust, not because of the product isn’t good enough but because we Danes tend to be a bit skeptical about things that aren’t the way they normally are. So to this company the challenge have been that the price of the shoes seems too low compared to the quality - by first thought it does not sound like a problem, but when the customer is used to paying a lot of money for great quality and brand, they apparently get very skeptical when a great product is sold at a lower price - what is the catch here?! And that’s really a shame. The whole idea was that “...we need the great walking shoes to a nice price.” But when the customer is convinced and have bought the first pair of shoes, he or she seems to come back wanting more, because they found out that these shoes have nothing to hide and are all in all, just great quality walking shoes, that you can always come back to. The styles don’t change too much, only the small details and the colors, so you always know what you get! This is what the company aims for; being able to give the customer a pleasant experience, they can rely on and want to keep in the wardrobe for years, and being able to add new ones without going bankrupt...And when this happens, there is something to celebrate and be proud of; to Stefano & Co. the best thing to do “... is to go out to a great restaurant and have a lovely dinner, because before we did it all the time but now the business takes up

Picture by Sandra Vinding

most of the time.” Also when they are seeking for new inspiration, great food is in focus. And we all know that great creative minds needs some fuel to keep going, so when the creative fuel tank needs to get filled up “...We go to Mothers Brunch, an Italian restaurant in Kødbyen. The pizza is the best in town! That’s the place we go to get the energy.” It is easy to hear that there are some Mediterranean blood running in the veins of these young people. To truly have something to celebrate, the wish, or goal if you like, is to get the shoes out in all of Italy in 2014, where the combination of nordic design, great quality and low price apparently sells very well. “...it would be a very big step, get out to 6 million people and have a showroom in Milan.” Stefano points out. The plan is already to attend the Milan Fashion Week for men SS14 and to move back to Italy to be able to take better care of the business, but hopefully it will also be possible to get an agent here in Denmark or Scandinavia, so that the business can expand the way the original plan intended. Maybe we danes just need a little more time, before we truly commit to something new?! But if it succeeds, then it will be celebrated with a party, pretty soon hopefully, they both agree. And last but not least, if you ask By Dot Copenhagen of what they think about, what a new beginning is to them, the answer is... “A new beginning would be to have the power to show our concept to every customer that would like to have a European well made, fashionable and classic product without emptying their pockets... A new beginning would be to create the most high quality product for the less wealthy people. Till we won’t succeed in that, we will always aim for a new beginning.”

Picture by Sandra Vinding

AWESOME ADROGYNY During Europes various fashion weeks for AW14, there has been a lot of talk of gender, more specifically if focusing on, and catogorizing fashion by gender is passé, or not. However breaking down barrieres between gender through fashion is hardley new, but timeless. Personalites like Marlene Dietrich and Kathrine Hepburn put women in mens suit on the map. Not to forget designeres like Coco Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent who proved time and time again, that the garconne look is a fashion statement that exuberates elegance and sensuality. And who can forget the mens skirts from designers like Jean Paul Gaultier and Vivienne Westwood. So let us not talk about battle of the sexes and let the sexes instead share style tips and borrrow from each others wardrobe. We recommend going to your favorite vintage shop (ours is “Times Up Vintage” in Copenhagen) and pick out clothes for a true combi-sex look a la Marlene.

Photographer - Alexander Nyrup Model - Trine Johst Vammen / Modelbooking Makeup and styling - Sigrid Wøhler

Butterfly - Ralph Lauren Shirt - Fenger

Visting Muuse Producing new talents Words by Tue Elkjær

Pictures courtesy of MUUSE

The essence of fashion is a focus on what’s new - what’s new since last season, what’s the new trend and who’s new on the fashion scene. But fashion is a very competitive business with a lot more applicants, then there are jobs, so it is tough being new and trying to break into fashion.

One company, which is both helping new talents to produce fashion and helping themselves sell fashion, is the clothing company MUUSE. MUUSE is a design label all about new talents, new names and new designs, much like fashion itself.

The company head hunt new designers, searching for fashion forward new talents from all around the world. These talents are often newly graduated from fashion schools, so we’re talking very fresh designers, practically farm fresh, so to speak. MUUSE gives young and inexperienced designers the chance to have their designs produced and distributed worldwide.

What is so amazing about MUUSE and their use of young, fresh designers, is that MUUSE uses their experience and expertize to deal with production, distribution and marketing. By this business form the young designers are left to do what they do best, design and come up with new ideas – in other words, MUUSE is all business and the designers gets to stay at their studio, everyone at peace in their own comfort zone. When

a designers collection has been selected and have had its ruff edges smoothed out, the collection is produced in limited editions and sold in MUUSE stores, a little exclusivity never hurt a fashion piece anyhow.

What MUUSE is really doing, by focusing on such young designers, is giving young designers a chance to work on a large scale, and offer the benefit of their experience. This way underground meets high street in an entirely new way. Because MUUSE change designers and require new designers, there is a constant search for fresh talents and constantly a new designer in their portfolio.

One of the ways MUUSE helps new designers is in their collaboration with Italien Vogue. MUUSE and Vogue Italia has created the contest MUUSE x Vogue Talents Young Vision Award 2013, were the readers of Vogue.it selects a winner to have a capsule collection produced and sold by MUUSE and to have their designs featured in Vogue Italia. The contest is an opportunity for unknown designers to pitch their work to professionals, and may be lucky enough to go legit and have their designs produced by MUUSE. Furthermore MUUSE is looking to recognize new talents in a collaborating with ELLE Style Awards, with the award for New Nordic Talent Of The Year 2014, which will be held this spring. But MUUSE is a very â&#x20AC;&#x153;consciousâ&#x20AC;? company, not only when it comes to hiring, but also when it comes to social and environmental responsibility. Therefor all of their product are produced in Europe to assure fair work conditions, the clothes is made to be worn

Pictures courtesy of MUUSE

and last, it’s not fast-fashion commodities.

At the moment MUUSE is promoting their “mission” on their own webpage, where they display a film linking themselves to the history of fashion, with references to Charles Frederick Worth, being the first to signature his work, thus producing the first fashion label. Furthermore MUUSE uses six of their new designers, called the next generation, to point out the modern day market of fast fashion, were the designers expresses a wish to go back to slow fashion back from long lost years, as the former couturiers. MUUSE is enjoying international attention, but whether they are able to change the fashion markets bad habits of mass producing, in firetrap sweatshops and go back to the fashion worlds former habits of slow fashion, is very uncertain, but a noble goal. Times are changing and the future is tomorrow and all that jazz, but all we can do is wait and see what the future has in store.

Pictures courtesy of MUUSE

Mark Kenly Domino Tan Words by Simone Meron

It is a new year and it is some most exciting new beginnings for Danish designer Mark Kenly Domino Tan, as he prepares for his second collection for Copenhagen Fashion Week since his much hyped debut collection at Nimb during Copenhagen Fashion Week last summer for spring summer 2014.

Immediately after his graduation from the design school in Kolding in 2012 his success has risen very quick. Soon after graduating, Mark Kenly Domino Tan was nominated as a finalist for the H&M Design Awards in January 2013, and after his well acclaimed collection shown this summer, suddenly all attention seems to be aimed towards Mark Kenly Domino Tan.

Mark Kenly Domino Tan recalls he is inspired by designers such as Raf Simons and his sharp, clean lines, Jil Sander’s minimalistic aesthetics, and Phoebe Philo, and the influence is significant in Mark Kenly Domino Tan’s designs. Undeniably chic and beautiful simplistic aesthetics.

Mark Kenly Domino Tan’s collections are beautifully feminine and undeniably cool. His designs all consists of crisp tailoring and feminine silhouettes made of sharp and clean lines, mimicking the minimalistic fashion that Scandinavian design is so renowned for. His collections show subtle colours on carefully chosen fabrics, which he so carefully mixes to create a beautiful texture into the clothes. His Spring Summer collection was noted by a long round-collared coat, high-waisted pants and a short jacket, and pencil skirt all in a summery bright red. He has shirts and skirts in silvers and crisp whites of different fabrics put together. But most of his collection was noted by dark colours and heavy fabrics such as neoprene and leather, but Mark Kenly Domino Tan has so beautifully mixed those with soft silks to create an elegantly chic look. With the focus taken away from the colours, Mark Kenly allows himself space for tailored twists to his otherwise very feminine looks. He has a focus on the arms, which he has emphasised in his

Mark Kenly Domino Tan taking his bow during copenhagen fashion week SS14

jackets and shirts through clever tailoring put together with pencil skirts of sharp tailoring or full skirts falling beautifully.

With Mark Kenly Domino Tanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eloquent knowledge of fabrics and minimalistic sharp tailoring and undeniably feminine silhouettes Mark Kenly Domino Tan is the designer to look out for in 2014. He has moved his studio to London. His pre fall collection of beautiful gold skirts and dresses have already been worn by celebrities like Oh Land and Medina. I cannot wait to see what he will present at his coming collection at Copenhagen Fashion Week and I can only predict good things for him to come in this coming year. his jackets and shirts through clever tailoring put together with pencil skirts of sharp tailoring or full skirts falling beautifully.

Mark Kenly Domino Tan SS14

LA DOLCE VITA To sum up life in a tireless cliché - life is short, so it is important to make the best of the time we have and to enjoy life. Some people do this by doing charity work or tending a garden - and other,s buy expensive and shiny things - which is just so much more our style. So here’s to life and to making it count by saying to hell with common sense and saying hello to the sweet life.

Photographer - Anja Ekstrøm / www.anjaekstroem.dk Model - Anna Mia Dalberg Ring / Modelbooking Makeup and hair - Anna Buhl Christensen

Dress - Trash Couture

MUST HAVES - AND SINCE THIS IS THE FIRST ISSUE, UGLY FAT IS RECOMMENDING SOME CLASSICS

KEEP YOUR FRINDS CLOSE AND YOUR MONEY CLOSER In these technological times, values can be stolen in many ways. Luckily the dutch company Secrid produces hacker safe wallets, using an aluminium casing to keep your cards from being hacked - or bend. The wallets come in 5 different sizes, to accomedate your needs, and the sleek wallets fits in your pocket, without causing weird bulges. Furthermore the wallets come in a wide varerity of leather coatings, one of our favorites is the black croc print. But Secird also has a clean conscious and produces the wallets in Holland, with a focus on fair conditions for the employees and for the environment.

I WANT CANDY Marie Antoinette may be dead and gone, but that doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t mean indulgence is out, on the contrary after years of drap recession talk, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time for excess - and to be honest, when indulgence is this sweet and pretty, who cares about moderation or dieting. UGLY FAT says - do it, dive into the decadence of Chocolate Hotel, for example with the white sleekster box from Chocolate Hotel - temptation never tasted so good.

LACEY SUMMER DAYS Dolce and Gabbana has shown a lot of lace these last seasons, but lace is not really a temporary trend, even though it goes in and out of fashion. Then, lace is a timeless classic, when itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s done with elegance and sexiness, which Dolce and Gabbana masters. These shades are worthy of a genuine femme fatale. So let out your inner vamp and use these shades to show your confidence and to hide your hangovers.

BLACK, ALLIGATOR Remeber the classic scene from Breakfast at Tiffany’s, where Audrey Hepburn asks George Peppard to look for her shoes, describing them with the two words “black, alligator”. Well Breakfast at Tiffany’s has got nothing on these black alligator shoes from Giuseppe Zanotti, seen at iiL7. These stillettos ooze timeless style with just hint of sex and a load of luxury. Like a modern day Holly Golightly.

CHIC LASTS FOREVER Shirley Bassey may have sung that diamonds are forever, but sometimes less extravagance does the trick, like these bangles from Dyrberg/Kern. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a clear reference to the Chanel bakelit bracelets of the 30â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, this interpretation is just as chic now, as it was then. So the next time you have a manic monday, cheer yourself and your outfit up with these bangles in order to chic up your day.

CHEERS - BUBBLES UP Not that Champagne ever needs an explanation or excuse, because, dude, it’s champagne! But we’ll give it a go anyway., in case there should be some sceptics out there. First of all, bubbles are fun, and so is alcohol, that’s just fact. Secondly this particular bottle is from the winehouse Piper-Heidsieck, which received the title ’IWC Sparkling Winemaker of the Year’ for the sixth year in a row - that’s worth opening up a bottle to celebrate. Thirdly - it’s champus darling, cheers!

LA DOLCE SHADES These Marc Jacobs sunglasses has a feel of rushing through the streets of 60â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Rome, in a sports car or vespa, going from party to party to drink with the jet set - Fellini style. But until a timemachine is invented, you can always carry these shades through the summer night life, prepared for the luring morning sun, while pretending to be Marcello Mastroianni, all you need, is a mod suit, these shades and a blasĂŠ, nihilistic facial pout.

ICH BIN EIN SHOELOVER They say clothes make the man, but accesories is just as telling, if not more. However you cant go wrong with a classic mens dress shoe, here from the classic german fashion house Hugo Boss. Hugo Boss expertizes in interpretations of classic mens wear, and especially accesories, always with a modern twist. These shoes are for the urban playboy with a classical style and money to burn (or who just havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t maxed out their credit...yet).

TIME AFTER TIME It can be hard to keep up with the ever changing times, therfor it’s nice to have a timeless timepiece you can count on. This swiss made mechanical watch is the ultimate watch classic, stylish and subtle with no nonsense, just the bare essentiels, but all in luxurious materials. This watch is called Mechanica and is from the danish based label Zeitgeist, the name is a german word, which means spirit of the times. is one for the ages, it will match everything and propably outlive you, it’s not a watch, it’s an investment in function and style. The Zeitgeist label produces high quality mechanical watches, in limeted addition, with transparent backs, to showcases the automatic mechanical movements.

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