UGLY FAT M A G a Z I N E
CONSTRUCTIvism 9. ISSUE
PEOPLE Editor in chief & chief stylist: Tue Elkjær // tue@uglyfat.dk Chief photographer: Anja Ekstrøm // anja@uglyfat.dk
For advertisement; contact advertising@uglyfat.dk
Writers: Daniel Jacob Delove, Tue Elkjær.
Photographers: Anja Ekstrøm, Jesper Bang-P Thortzen, Josef Brock, Pernille Vinkler.
Stylists: Tue Elkjær.
Makeup and/or hair: Cirkelinge Coco Singh, Denise Hoffmann.
FRONT PAGE: photographer: anja ekstrøm // www.anjaekstroem.dk Model: Gitte Rasmussen // CPH WOLVES Stylist: Tue Elkjær // www.uglyfat.dk Hair & makeup artist: Cirkeline Coco Singh // www.cocotheunicorn.net
SPECIAL THANKS TO: 9PR, Agency V, Bootleggers // www.bootleggers.dk, Copenhagen Fashion Week, Eugene Melnik, Holm & Bertung, Maria Black, PR Connect, Profil Optik, Purple June, RWD, Soil Agency, Zarah Voigt.
brands & dealers PAGE 8-21 www.rwdcph.com
Page 112-119 www.rh-studio.fi www.faconfacon.com
PAGE 22-41
www.signe-isager.com
www.profiloptik.dk
www.item-m6.com
www.zarahvoigt.com
www.monki.com
www.rwdcph.com
www.wonders.com
www.linafunder.dk
www.henrikvibskovboutique.com
www.fonnesberg.com
www.soa-copenhagen.com
www.carlend.dk/uk/
www.tstore.dk
www.maria-black.com
www.linafunder.dk
www.prettyloafers.com
www.bogelund-jensen.com
www.soa-copenhagen.com
www.rwdcph.com
www.thithao.com PAGE 120-127
www.ursulamascaro.com www.bogelund-jensen.com
www.mykita.com
Page 42-94
Page 134-145
www.annavonaabling.com
www.wonders.com
www.ellenpedersen.eu
www.weekday.com
www.fonnesbech-cph.com
www.lalaberlin.com
www.henrikvibskovboutique.com
www.munthe.com
www.jeanphillip.dk
www.kinzkanaan.com
www.lalaberlin.com
www.5preview.se
www.maikeltawadros.com
www.bibichemnitz.com
www.mardouanddean.com
www.scarpa.dk
www.nicholasnybro.dk
www.sandcopenhagen.com www.asos.com
PAGE 95-111 www.weekday.com
www.weekday.com
CONTENT LETTER FROM THE EDITOR // PAGE 6 interview // Meeting up with rwd // PAGE 8 editorial // AN ATYPICAL woman// PAGE 22 feature // copenhagen fashion week SS16 // PAGE 42 feature // Weekday ss16 campaign // PAGE 95 editorial // self-CONSTRUCTING// PAGE 112 feature // MYKITA SUNGLASSES // PAGE 120 interview // having a multi-career // PAGE 128 Feature // the constructivist’s shopping list // page 134
letter from the editor Words by Tue Elkjær In this issue we focus on constructivism as an artistic ideal. The thought behind constructivism, being that aesthetic expression has the possibility to make social impact – what could be more fashion than that. If you look at some of the constructivist artists, they do blur the line between artist and designer – think of Varvara Stepanova (you may not remember her name, but you’ve probably seen some of her work). But constructivism has many meanings and aren’t limited to physical objects. There’s also constructivist philosophy, like that of Jean Piaget, which has the notion that knowledge and experiences are aligned in processes of accommodation and assimilation. Much like the relation between fashion and consumerism are socially negotiated. In todays capitalist fashion industry designers accommodate to the consumer market and consumers buy certain fashion products, which they assimilate into their wardrobe and their lives. It’s like one of the (many) rules of Chanel, that fashion, simply isn’t fashion, until it’s been spotted in the streets. However, not everything designers create, becomes fashion, not unless it’s adapted by consumers (you), not to mention the press (us) and other fashion authorities, that constitutes the fashion system. In a way, this social dynamic is consoling – as individuals we may only hold a little power, but we all have some influence on the definition of fashion. Fashion is in some ways very holistic – fashion cannot be created or determined by an individual, it is the consensus of the fashion community, as it is interpreted by the subjective individual. The allure and characteristic of fashion, is the paradigm that fashion is both collective and individualistic – a fashionista is both completely unique and one of many. As long as you take part in fashion, you’re part of a community, a community where your aesthetic judgements and tastes are always valid, no matter who you are. Fashion is subjective, after all, and there is no objective right or wrong, it’s all a matter of personal taste, artistic style and consumerism. The idea for this issue, being centred on the idea of constructivism, was all due to a talk I had with the amazing Danish designer Rosa Winther Denison, from the label RWD (you can read her interview and see her designs on pages 8). All of Rosa’s collections are centred on architectural structures and constructions. Something which is very visible in her work, especially her custom made items. Rosa’s design are not just clothes, they’re structures, they’re constructions and to me, they’re distinctly ‘fashion’ in the classical sense. We’ve all heard the tired meme that fashion is iconographic, but consider what that really means. Iconography doesn’t just happen, it’s constructed through a process of identification of values, which are then visualized. Fashion, is a construction of aesthetic and personal style, which others may discourage or applaud. But the most important thing must surely be ones own convictions.
Tue ElkjĂŚr - Editor in chief Picture by Pernille Vinkler
Meeting up with rwd let’s talk about fashion The Danish fashion label RWD really inspired this whole issue. The brand has an inspiring approach to fashion, with a focus on geometric shapes and clothes as architectural constructions. What’s most surprising, is how the RWD clothes seem to suit all different sorts of body types. We’re truly in awe of this brands visionary approach to design and its mix of exceptional custom made pieces and simplistic, wearable ready to wear. So we had our amazing writer Daniel meet up with Rosa Winther Denison, the founder & chief designer of RWD, for a chat about what RWD stands for and what fashion is all about anyway. Words by Daniel Jacob Delove Who is Rosa Winther Denison? Tell us about yourself? Well, I grew up in the suburbs of Copenhagen in a very small town, but I’ve always felt like Copenhagen was something special. Now that I live here, I have a hard time leaving it, and cannot imagine moving out of the city again. Generally I’m an open-minded person, and as a designer I’m hard working and experimental. I would say that I am a tolerant and warm person, that loves to give and care. I have a tendency to put the needs of other people before my own. Oh and don’t forget, I’m “humoristic” – haha. How did you select the materials you used for the SS16 collection? Normally, when I choose materials for a new collection, I look for fabrics that seem like a natural progression from previous choices and earlier collections. At the moment I have initiated a new collaboration with a new manufacture, which is always a challenge when talking about textiles. For the SS16 collection, the final choices really depended on what they had in stock or could source from his network of subcontractors. I mostly like natural materials like tencel, silk, etc, but this year it’s actually the first time in RWD history, that you will find polyester in my collection. I have always been afraid of using polyester, because it’s an artificial fibre, which people in general conceive as cheap and uncomfortable. Previously I have agreed on this, but now I realize, that the manufacturers have become so talented, that they can create many different kinds of high quality polyester textiles,
rosa - wearing her own design, from the aw15 collection
which are not only really great to work with, but also rather inexpensive, so we can bring the prices down and make our products affordable for more people to buy. You said in an interview that architects mostly inspire you. Which architects are you inspired by in this SS16 Collection and why? At the moment I am really obsessed with Zaha Hadid – actually I have been for a long time. She has been a great source of inspiration for several of my collections now. I’m quite fascinated by the way she is able to transform solid materials into something that look so organic and soft. Her unique work almost looks like she has taken clay and just shaved, chiselled and carved it into an organic and living structure. I know it is “only” concrete, bricks, steel and glass, but the artistic and creative way she is using the materials is innovative and inspires me a lot. Her visual expression is very interesting - never dull, and a lot of elements are interacting - whilst being very harmonic at the same time. I think her work just touches me and inspires me profoundly, and while there are certainly other people that does that, she is my most significant source of inspiration at the moment. If you had the opportunity to collaborate with a designer or an architect, who would it be? At this point in time I would say Zaha Hadid, or Santiago Calatrava, I really admire his work too. He works in the same direction as Zaha Hadid, and his work too, is very sculptural and organic. Off course also the Japanese architect Kisho Kurokawa, who has a very “boxy” aesthetics. Perhaps a triple collaboration between Hadid, Kurokawa and I, would be quite fabulous. If I were to collaborate with a designer, it would be Elsien Gringhuis. Her clothing has always fascinated me and the way she transforms materials into the most amazing clothing always makes me think: ’’How the h… did she do that’’. Why did you start as a designer? How did you get into the fashion industry? I started designing my own stuff at home, knitting baby blankets to my friends, sewing tube dresses with ruffles and simple bags. Then I was introduced to Tiffany, who is a creative event manager from San Francisco. She was creating an guerrilla event during Copenhagen Fashion Week 2010. It was a very special event where fine dining was combined with fashion and music. You had different courses in between different sets of catwalks. Tiffany had to choose 4 designers for that event, but in the end she selected only my former brand Rosa-
rosa - wearing her own design, from the aw15 collection
Bryndis. That’s how I got started and for me, that was the point of no return and I never looked back since! I personally love your Junotee shirt and pants. What is your ‘Must-have’ from your SS16 collection? I like the pleatshorts, those are my favourite I think, but I also like longdrapy shirt in white. If you combine the two, you’ll get a combination of street and something feminine, which I like to mix in my outfits. I like that the idea of the relaxed combined with a feminine, a powerful expression. What is your process? My design process varies, and is different from time to time and also from moment to moment in one collection. Sometimes I can get inspired by just walking around the city. Sometimes an idea just pops up in by head, though sometimes my inspiration evolves around a longer process, where I start off making paintings or collages, creating random lines on a piece of paper and start to develop new designs from this. It’s not the same specific or only method I use, I always follow my gut instinct and artistic intuition, but if I should pick a common denominator in my design process, then it would be: Diversity! Do you ever look back at your old collections and get inspired by them? Yes, but I mostly look back on sketches, that I haven’t used. I have different books, with all my previously unused drawings from different collections. If I had asked a 15 year old Rosa Winther, what she wanted to be, when she became an adult, what do you think she would have answered? And would she at that time even remotely have considered becoming a fashion designer? No, I definitely didn’t see fashion in my future, when I was 15. I really wanted to study law, so I could be a lawyer like Ally McBeal, but somewhere along the way I realized, that the constant pressure of studying, remembering knowledge from reading and getting good grades, etc. simply wasn’t for me. There’s also a lot of pressure on a designer in the fashion industry, but it’s not the same kind of pressure, because there are no rigid correct answers set in stone. The challenge in designing fashion is more about finding new ways to express yourself creatively and artis-
RWD SS16 available at www.rwdcph.com
tically, as there are no given wrong or right answers. What is fashion to you? Define fashion. Fashion is many things. It cannot be defined in just one line. I consider fashion as something, that triggers emotions and feelings in someone. It can be a statement expressed through a specific style, that makes people think or sense something. Fashion can be almost everything. It can be something, that you wear or something that is there, a specific tendency, a unique material or a new style, it’s actually not easy to define fashion. But the most import thing is, that fashion is personal, involves great designing skills and that the created fashion is something people like to wear, look at, admire and respond to. Any reaction except indifference is a positive thing and you could say, that just getting a reaction is a success. Where do you see yourself and RWD in 5 years? Off course I wish for RWD to grow. I’d really like to have a small flagship store, which gives the costumer a unique shopping experience with coffee and everyday chats. I would also like to teach, which makes a lot of sense – to teach others what I have learnt throughout the years. Besides that, I really would enjoy teaching how I am doing my things, in my way. I want to show students that there is a big difference between the controlled and intuitive design process. I wish to increase their creativity, and point out the difference between making collections in a commercial context compared to creative and more avantgarde projects. I want to help the students by giving them the necessary tools to think, create, and design outside the box and. I think running a successful company whilst teaching will be a brilliant combination. If the company grows and becomes very successful, it would be a dream to bring all my former interns back to RWD because they are really the reason why RWD exist, and have reached the place we are now, in the first place. When I look at your online shop, I see a lot of beautiful clothing for woman, but only 1-2 shirts for men. Do you have any desire to start designing a full line of clothing for men too? Yes, I really want to do that. A man’s body is so much different from women’s, but I think there’s great potential in experimenting a lot with shapes and styles that are not stereotypically male or female, it’s a whole new area I would really like
RWD SS16 available at www.rwdcph.com
to explore. My boyfriend is wearing some of my designs in the men’s collection and he loves it, because the design is unique and the materials are very comfortable - and he doesn’t just say that because I’m his girlfriend! As a fashion designer, do you wear your own clothing? Yes, in certain periods I do. If I go out, I really love to flash my own clothing at parties, but it really depends on my mood and what day it is. It’s not every day I want to wear my own designs, because I spend so much time and effort creating my designs, so before even wearing them, they sometimes feel like old stuff, that has been in my closet for years. But every once in a while, when I’m in the right mood, I still love to wear my own creations and show them off! What are you wearing now? And why did you choose this particular outfit for this interview? Well, today I’m wearing a very relaxed and comfortable outfit. Basically it’s just a pair of stretchy jeans from H&M together with a tencel top from the H&M conscious collection. I normally prefer supporting smaller and more unique brands like my own, but because I am finishing my master’s degree from the Royal Academy Of Design, I need to wear something, which can get dirty and easily cleaned – something I can accidentally cut or draw on, because that happens regularly. I remember the time where I was younger, and wore stuff which I could barely breath in. I’ve just become to comfortable for that now. If you should describe your new SS16 collection with 3 words, what words would that be? The SS16 collection is fresh and consists of various expressions. It is street, but still classical, feminine and inclusive. It is a collection that will appeal to many different types of customers, the price range is good and you can get a nice Scandinavian design for a very affordable price. So my 3 words would be: fresh, diversity and inclusive. Less is more, what do you think? Do you agree or disagree? Well, I agree and disagree.
RWD SS16 available at www.rwdcph.com
Minimalism is good, it’s something we need in our daily lives, we need simple uniforms, dresses etc. Less is more? At the same time I also like the complicated or voluminous, something a little over the top, where people think ‘’This is impossible” For me it isn’t about whether it’s too much or whether it is too minimalistic, what matters to me is: Is it a creative design and is it really nicely made? Is it carefully conceived, executed and thought trough. Right now I’m making a very minimalistic collection, but the showpieces I’m working on, are very over the top with a lot of layers, etc. So I won’t choose or limit myself to a specific predetermined way, because I love the minimalistic universe as much as I love going totally over the top in a far more bombastic and flamboyant universe. Tell me about one of your most awful experiences during your time as a designer and one of your best experiences as well. The worst experience for me is always doing a show while being backstage, fitting and making the last minute corrections to the clothing, because there is such an enormous amount of pressure and I have a hard time handling that level of stress. Another really bad experience is when people are obviously and blatantly copying you. For a small company as mine, it has quite harsh consequences. Some might say, that someone “getting inspired” by your creative work is the ultimate compliment, but besides the loss of income it most often results in, which deprives the artist of getting paid for his or her work, the emotional stress of having someone just snatch the results of your creativity and the countless hours of developing styles, concepts and ideas, is impossible to grasp unless it has actually happened to you. I think every designer, including myself, is getting inspired by others, but some people are ‘’borrowing” so much and so shamelessly, it’s simply theft and plagiarism. I think you have to be really conscious and careful with that. That is why I start of with inspiration, which is not made in textiles. It is a fact that live in the same world or city and we can easily get inspired by the same things, but never confuse deliberately borrowing original ideas of others with a common denominator of “inspiration”. The best experience? I have had a lot of great experiences actually, I think my first show was a really good experience and when I look back at it I think ‘’ Holy shit, was that really my clothing’’. I really don’t like it now, it wasn’t a great success, but it was a really good experience! If you should give me a fashion tip, what would it be?
RWD SS16 available at www.rwdcph.com
Be bold and do not be afraid to stand out, trough what you are wearing. It is okay not to blend in, and look like everyone else. There was a time when that was appreciated in the fashion industry – we longed to be the first to wear something or be the one to discover a new brand – at least I used to be like that. I remember being mocked by wearing converse shoes, because my fellow class mates thought they looked like clown shoes. Guess what they were wearing the year after? I really miss that. Where is that boldness today? I honestly understand why some would hold back, because we are so afraid of being starred at or judged by our looks. If you wear something “weird” these days, people could potentially look at you, like you are some sort of freak. Fashion is about identities – you can interpret who someone is through their clothing - it can tell a lot about someone’s identity. London and Paris are far more acceptable of huge differences in personal styles and expressions. You can easily walk the streets of Paris or London and if people stare, it would be of admiration and many would even give a compliment on your outfit. There is much more diversity and an open cosmopolitan attitude in general. There are many people that are afraid of following their own sense of fashion and literally terrified of standing out. Luckily this does not apply to all and Stine Goya is a very good example of a designer, who has chosen to use minimalism with wild prints, lots of gold and serious bling-bling. I also just wish people would think much more about the actual clothing and much less about the label. On the contrary, it’s much more important to think about the beauty, combination and personal style of the clothing, than it is to worry about the “correct” label. That’s what we need to go back too and I hope RWD can contribute to us getting there.
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AN ATYPICAL woman dressing to stand out
In our fandom of avantgarde artist movements, we think it’s good to get beyond ordinary experiences and ordinary clothes. Isn’t ‘the ordinary’ an enemy of fashion and fabulousness, isn’t individuality and the atypical the epitome of fashion. We certainly think so! Therefore we simply love it when designers make something that seems apart from what other people are doing, and something that high street just can’t copy, like extraordinary silhouettes or amazing quality and craftsmanship. Fashion is after all, iconographic, which means that shopping, dressing and styling is about constructing or re-constructing your own personality, at least symbolically. Why wouldn’t show your uniqueness and specialness, by dressing like no-one else. This editorial is all about playing with the more atypical, about not dressing in a tee, jeans and sneakers, like everyone else. Dressing yourself and wearing fashion (however you define it) should always be an atypical experience! photographer: anja ekstrøm // www.anjaekstroem.dk Model: Gitte Rasmussen // cph wolves Stylist: Tue Elkjær // www.uglyfat.dk Hair & makeup artist: Cirkeline Coco Singh // www.cocotheunicorn.net
Sunglasses; Dolce & gabbana (profil optik) - Earrings; Zarah Voigt - Top; RWD
Sunglasses; Dolce & gabbana (profil optik) - Earrings; Zarah Voigt - Top; RWD - Pants; Lina Funder - Bag; Sonja Hashøj - Shoes; Fonnesberg
Sunglasses; Dolce & gabbana (profil optik) - Earrings; Zarah Voigt - Top; RWD - Pants; Lina Funder - Bag; Sonja Hashøj - Shoes; Fonnesberg
Earrings; Zarah Voigt - Top; Lina Funder - Skirt; RWD - Bag; Carlend - Bracelets & Rings; Maria Black - Shoes; Pretty Loafers
Earrings; Zarah Voigt - Top; Lina Funder - Skirt; RWD - Bag; Carlend - Rings; Maria Black - Shoes; Pretty Loafers
Earrings; Zarah Voigt - Top & (blue) skirt; RWD - Necklaces; Maria Black - Bag; Lina Funder Skirt (black); Soa Copenhagen - Shoes; Pretty Loafers
Earrings; Zarah Voigt - Top; RWD - Necklaces; Maria Black
Earrings; Zarah Voigt - Top; Thi Thao
Top; RWD - Bodychain; Zarah Voigt - Necklace & Rings; Maria Black - Clutch; Carlend - Pants; Lina Funder - Shoes; Fonnesberg
Top; RWD - Bodychain; Zarah Voigt - Necklace & Rings; Maria Black
Dress; RWD - Bodychain; Zarah Voigt - Necklace, earrings & earcuffs; Maria Black Shoes; Ursula Mascaro
Dress; RWD - Bodychain; Zarah Voigt - Necklace, earrings & earcuffs; Maria Black
Top; Lina Funder - Earrings; Zarah Voigt - Skirt; Bøgelund-Jensen Bracelets & rings; Maria Black - Shoes; Ursula Mascaro
Top; Lina Funder - Earrings; Zarah Voigt - Skirt; Bøgelund-Jensen Bracelets & rings; Maria Black
Top; Lina Funder - Earrings; Zarah Voigt - Skirt; Bøgelund-Jensen Bracelets & rings; Maria Black - Shoes; Ursula Mascaro
Top; Lina Funder - Earrings; Zarah Voigt - Skirt; Bøgelund-Jensen Bracelets & rings; Maria Black
Dress & bag; Lina Funder - Bracelets, earrings & rings; Maria Black - Shoes; Ursula Mascaro
Dress; Lina Funder - Earrings; Maria Black
Earrings; Maria Black
copenhagen fashion week SS16 our favorite looks, from our favorite shows Once again, it’s a new season and new goods are displayed in the department stores and web shops. We want to give you our input, on what’s worth your attention and, at the same time, advocate for Danish fashion. Here, we give our favorite looks for the spring/summer season, from Copenhagen Fashion Week.
Anna von aabling ss16
keywords: old school luxury – slow fashion - couture www.annavonaabling.com
picture courtesy of copenhagen fashion week // www.copenhagenfashionweek.com anna von aabling ss16
picture courtesy of copenhagen fashion week // www.copenhagenfashionweek.com anna von aabling ss16
picture courtesy of copenhagen fashion week // www.copenhagenfashionweek.com anna von aabling ss16
picture courtesy of copenhagen fashion week // www.copenhagenfashionweek.com anna von aabling ss16
ellen pedersen ss16
keywords: boyish charm – street wear – understated fashion www.ellenpedersen.eu
picture courtesy of jesper bang-p thortzen // www.jjphotography.dk ellen pedersen ss16
picture courtesy of jesper bang-p thortzen // www.jjphotography.dk ellen pedersen ss16
picture courtesy of jesper bang-p thortzen // www.jjphotography.dk ellen pedersen ss16
picture courtesy of jesper bang-p thortzen // www.jjphotography.dk ellen pedersen ss16
fonnesbech ss16
keywords: classic chic – made to last - simplicity www.fonnesbech-cph.com
picture courtesy of jesper bang-p thortzen // www.jjphotography.dk Fonnesbech ss16
picture courtesy of jesper bang-p thortzen // www.jjphotography.dk Fonnesbech ss16
picture courtesy of jesper bang-p thortzen // www.jjphotography.dk Fonnesbech ss16
picture courtesy of jesper bang-p thortzen // www.jjphotography.dk Fonnesbech ss16
henrik vibskov SS16
keywords: playful – graphic – functional & cool www.henrikvibskovboutique.com
picture courtesy of jesper bang-p thortzen // www.jjphotography.dk henrik vibskov ss16
picture courtesy of jesper bang-p thortzen // www.jjphotography.dk henrik vibskov ss16
picture courtesy of jesper bang-p thortzen // www.jjphotography.dk henrik vibskov ss16
picture courtesy of jesper bang-p thortzen // www.jjphotography.dk henrik vibskov ss16
picture courtesy of jesper bang-p thortzen // www.jjphotography.dk henrik vibskov ss16
picture courtesy of jesper bang-p thortzen // www.jjphotography.dk henrik vibskov ss16
jean//phillip sS16
keywords: military look – hard vs. soft attitude - simplistic www.jeanphillip.dk
picture courtesy of jesper bang-p thortzen // www.jjphotography.dk jean//phillip ss16
picture courtesy of jesper bang-p thortzen // www.jjphotography.dk jean//phillip ss16
picture courtesy of jesper bang-p thortzen // www.jjphotography.dk jean//phillip ss16
picture courtesy of jesper bang-p thortzen // www.jjphotography.dk jean//phillip ss16
lala berlin sS16
keywords: graphic prints – colorful - chic www.lalaberlin.com
picture courtesy of jesper bang-p thortzen // www.jjphotography.dk lala berlin ss16
picture courtesy of jesper bang-p thortzen // www.jjphotography.dk lala berlin ss16
picture courtesy of jesper bang-p thortzen // www.jjphotography.dk lala berlin ss16
picture courtesy of jesper bang-p thortzen // www.jjphotography.dk lala berlin ss16
maikel tawadros sS16
keywords: 90’s vibe – geometric - strength www.maikeltawadros.com
picture courtesy of copenhagen fashion week // www.copenhagenfashionweek.com maikel tawadros ss16
picture courtesy of copenhagen fashion week // www.copenhagenfashionweek.com maikel tawadros ss16
picture courtesy of copenhagen fashion week // www.copenhagenfashionweek.com maikel tawadros ss16
picture courtesy of copenhagen fashion week // www.copenhagenfashionweek.com maikel tawadros ss16
mardou & dean sS16
keywords: redefined chic – 70’s vibe - luxury www.mardouanddean.com
picture courtesy of jesper bang-p thortzen // www.jjphotography.dk Mardou & dean ss16
picture courtesy of jesper bang-p thortzen // www.jjphotography.dk Mardou & dean ss16
picture courtesy of jesper bang-p thortzen // www.jjphotography.dk Mardou & dean ss16
picture courtesy of jesper bang-p thortzen // www.jjphotography.dk Mardou & dean ss16
picture courtesy of jesper bang-p thortzen // www.jjphotography.dk Mardou & dean ss16
picture courtesy of jesper bang-p thortzen // www.jjphotography.dk Mardou & dean ss16
nicholas nybro sS16
Keywords: fairy tale – dystopian optimism – more is more www.nicholasnybro.dk
picture courtesy of jesper bang-p thortzen // www.jjphotography.dk nicholas nybro ss16
picture courtesy of jesper bang-p thortzen // www.jjphotography.dk nicholas nybro ss16
picture courtesy of jesper bang-p thortzen // www.jjphotography.dk nicholas nybro ss16
picture courtesy of jesper bang-p thortzen // www.jjphotography.dk nicholas nybro ss16
picture courtesy of jesper bang-p thortzen // www.jjphotography.dk nicholas nybro ss16
picture courtesy of jesper bang-p thortzen // www.jjphotography.dk nicholas nybro ss16
Weekday ss16 campaign reconstructing the 90’s All construction, is work, whether the construction is metaphorical or physical, and when it comes to work wear, denim is by far one of the most iconic materials. However construction can also be reconstruction, like the WEEKDAY SS16 collection, which is reconstructing the denim style of the 1990’s – a decade remembered with mixed emotions. But our feelings about WEEKDAY’s collection are very unmixed, it’s one of those few 90’s inspired collections, that seems fresh and not just nostalgic. So feel free to stream the tunes of your favorite 90’s boy- or girlband, as you look through the collection and judge for yourself. www.weekday.com
All clothes & accessories; Weekday
All clothes & accessories; Weekday
All clothes & accessories; Weekday
All clothes & accessories; Weekday
All clothes & accessories; Weekday
All clothes & accessories; Weekday
All clothes & accessories; Weekday
All clothes & accessories; Weekday
All clothes & accessories; Weekday
All clothes & accessories; Weekday
All clothes & accessories; Weekday
All clothes & accessories; Weekday
All clothes & accessories; Weekday
All clothes & accessories; Weekday
All clothes & accessories; Weekday
All clothes & accessories; Weekday
self-CONSTRUCTING
examining a self-styled lifestyle Art and fashion are often compared and spoken of as similar industries, led by creativity and with a keen focus on the creators behind the objects. But people in art and fashion also share a certain tendency to be self-styled and live a conceptual life, based on self-selected ideals or principles. Yes, fashionistas, artists and artisans work in construction, they also seem to be self-constructed personalities, which comes out in their work, lifestyle and their styling. But these types seem to be self-deconstructive, as well as selfcontructive. Think of people like Elsa Schiparelli, Toulouse-Lautrec or Yves Saint Laurent – there seems to be both something destructive in their constructive, creative genius. Art and fashion wouldn’t be quite as chic without the ambitious hedonistic mix of hard work and absinth or champagne. Much like Graham Greene’s short story “The Destructors”, there is something creative and constructive in the deconstruction of prevailing values. Much like the lifestyle of artists and fashionistas, who rarely live regular lives, but rather deconstructs social norms, in order to construct their own life - often in the night life, with a drink in hand, just like Toulouse-Lautrec or Laurent. So the next time your shopping or dressing yourself, do it with yourself in mind, to please your own principles and convictions. Who could say no to a self-imposed life, especially if it comes with your favorite poisons, chin chin! Special thanks to Eugene Melnik LOCATION; BOOTLEGGERS BAR www.facebook.com/cphbootleggers photographer: JOSEF BROCK // www.josefbrock.com Model: METTE RIIS SØRENSEN // www.facebook.com/mette.r.sorensen.modeling/?fref=ts Stylist: Tue Elkjær // www.uglyfat.dk Hair & makeup artist: DENISE HOFFMANN
Coat; Lina Funder - Dress; Bøgelund-Jensen - Necklace & ring; isager by signe isager
Coat; Lina Funder - Dress; Bøgelund-Jensen - Ring; isager by signe isager
Dress; R/H - Bracelet & (rounded) ring; Facon Facon - Ring; isager by signe isager – Pantyhose; Item m6. - Sandals; Monki
Dress; R/H - Bracelet & (rounded) ring; Facon Facon - Ring; isager by signe isager – Pantyhose; Item m6. - Sandals; Monki
Top; R/H - Necklace & bracelet; Facon Facon – Skirt; RWD - Stockings; Item m6
Top & pants; Monki – Top (black ruffles); RWD – Necklace, rings & earrings; Facon Facon Shoes; wonders
Earrings, cuffs & ring; isager by Signe Isager - Swimsuit; Henrik Vibskov x h2o Robe; Soa Copenhagen - Shoes; Tamaris
MYKITA SUNGLASSES our favorite shades, from one of favorite brands One of our absolute favorite things about the spring/summer season, is that the increase in sun rays, leaves us with more opportunities to flash some sunnies. Nothing says cool, like the right pair of shades. There is something about sunglasses that creates some mystery and coolness - like you’re avantgarde artist, living a super conceptual life, full of bohemian excitement and adventures. So, we’re using the season as an excuse to showcase our favorite sunnies, from one of our favorite brands; MYKITA. Enjoy. www.mykita.com
mykita www.mykita.com
mykita www.mykita.com
mykita x Bernhard Willhelm www.mykita.com
mykita x Bernhard Willhelm www.mykita.com
mykita www.mykita.com
mykita x maison margiela www.mykita.com
mykita www.mykita.com
having a multi-career a chat with Christiane Schaumburg-Müller Words by Tue Elkjær I met up with Christiane Schaumburg-Müller, the talented Danish (and very energetic) dancer, actress, radio host, comedian, writer, editor-in-chief of ChriChri magazine and probably a lot of other stuff. Anyway, I was lucky enough to have chat with her about self expression, beauty standards and her new beauty book; ‘Makeup by Christiane – how to look like a star’. Oh, and also about her very diversified career. Could you describe yourself in just a few words? How do you see yourself? How did you come to be, you know, you? I’m without a doubt a very energetic person with high ambitions and a big love for creating. I always have more than one project running and I love what I do. I’ve earned my living as a professional dancer, I’ve lived in France for 2 years, I have studied French and communication at the university (CBS – Copenhagen Business School) became an actress, then radio host, TV host, best seller author, I have my own magazine ChriChri, a publishing house ChriChri journal, a clothing line and a lot of other stuff in the making. You’ve done quite a lot of different things. What motivates you to express yourself in so many different platforms? The fact that nothing stops me – I go where I wanna – I can do whatever I want – that’s my motto, and that has nothing to do with the fact that I am who I am – its always been my motto and what has driven me. I don’t feel that life gives me boundaries – I believe it gives me freedom. All your work seems to be focused, very directly, on you, your looks, tastes, point of view and etc. Is that unconscionably done or is it due to a chosen strategy? I started out with me being the firm – I was my business, there was only me – my whole strategy is now more toward being more behind the scenes, so that everything is not so dependent on me. ChriChri is a great example of that – my clothing line and publishing (I publish books not written by me) as well – a lot of people are committed to these brands – we are a team and army – and I stand with the army side by side. For me aging also means being more dependent and more private. I love being behind the scenes – I
christiane picture by Anja Ekstrøm // www.anjaekstroem.dk
like the limelight of cause – but the balance has changed. You’ve been in the spotlight in the Danish media for a while now, how do you deal with that kind of attention, especially the press’ prying eyes (like us now, sticking our noses in your business)? It has never come as a chock for me, I’m very comfortable with it – it’s my choice of living. However, I’m very private and the price you pay is that you become very alone. I never discuss private matters with anybody and I keep my dirty laundry to myself. Sometimes you long for just being able to let loose and not be so controlling in public – but then again I don’t mind it. If I did, I should stop doing what I do. Its easy to hide in this country – I could stop everything I do – my activities on social media tomorrow and before you know it – puff gone. That always comforts me. But as I said I’m very pleased with were I am – I don’t have a negative attitude towards fame. You recently published your second book ‘Makeup by Christiane – how to look like a star’, in Danish. Why did you feel the need to make a physical book instead of something on a digital platform (here in the era of the YouTube-makeup-tutorials)? I just started a publishing agency for chist shake – I love books – ha-ha – I love online – I love it all. But do what you are best at. My stench is the books. I let the fantastic youtubers do their thing. In your book, you do makeup tutorials, using international celebrities as case studies for good makeup, but you’re a celebrity in Denmark in your own right. Do you compare yourself to the celebrities in the book in your daily life, are you trying to ‘live up’ to some beauty standard set by these particular women, which are featured in your book? I never try to look up to something – but we women find inspiration in each other – some find it in me, and like them, I also find it in somebody. The reason I look to the US and not Denmark is simple – we don’t do the whole red carpet thing like they do. They have the right lights, the right dressed, the effort. And they have tons of events – and you can find the pictures online – in Denmark you have to be lucky to find pictures online from an event – and then they are in bad lighting and so on. Not very inspirational. What are your thoughts on ‘beauty standards’ in general? Love beauty, love makeup – every woman should get to know her face. Makeup is a weapon, a powerful one. I love women with no makeup, we are generous – but that doesn’t mean that we shouldn’t wear
christiane picture by Anja Ekstrøm // www.anjaekstroem.dk
christiane picture by Anja Ekstrøm // www.anjaekstroem.dk
makeup. What do you strive for when you’re dressing yourself or putting on your makeup (to look or feel a certain way)? I put on a mask – and then my day begins. I would never go to a meeting without makeup. I easily go shopping or meet with friends without makeup – but the way I behave changes, if I have makeup on. Is there any particular trait that you admire in yourself? What pulls you through a hard day, what drives you? If you could decide everything in the entire world, what would the world be like? To accomplish a project drives me. I always begin something to finish it. The journey drives me. I’m a project lover.
the constructivist’s shopping list because regular groceries are boring
TIME TO SHINE These amazing womens sandals from WONDERS are gold, platforms, shiny and gold.....so we love them. What more could you possibly want from a pair of sandals. www.wonders.com
HOW TO CONSTRUCT A BIKINI BODY Most magazines, would by this time have made a feature about how to construct a bikini body. But we’re of the opinion that a bikini body is made by putting a bikini on your body and we assume you know how do that. So instead, we’re just gonna tell you, that we loved this geometric bikini from WEEKDAY, as soon as we saw it. www.weekday.com
some like it hot While spring/summer days are mostly about keeping it cool, the evenings are about keeping it together as the night chill sets in. We’ve all been there, at some fabulous or nice outdoor event during and suddenly the warmth of the day seizes and your fabulous summer outfit is just not enough to keep your party going. What is needed, is a cozy, yet pretty cardigan – one that doesn’t make you look like a librarian. This fantastic womens cardigan from LALA BERLIN will protect you from goosebumps and let you party the night, while looking fab. www.lalaberlin.com
versatile simplicity What you really need for summer, is some clothes that are stylish, comfortable and that breathes. Most importantly, clothing that can be used from day-to-night and which can be dressed up or down. In fact, summer clothing needs to be versatile and easily reconfigured, so they can be used both for lazy sundays, for afternoon tea and as evening wear. This is why people have little black dresses in their closets and personally, we like this little black dress from MUNTHE. It looks nice and cozy (and like it lets your skin breathe), but can be styled up, to look more formal, if you just wear the right shoes and bedeck yourself with enough jewellery. www.munthe.com
QUALITY and personal empowerment Most avantgarde sub-cultures would agree that quality reign over quantity - in short, one diamond is more valuable than a lot of coal. The jewellery brand KINZ KANAAN produce jewellery from the same point of view. KINZ KANAAN produces graphic, architectural jewellery out of all the good stuff. All their products are made of precious metals, like silver or gold and precious stones like rubies, diamonds or sapphires. Despite the exclusiveness of the chosen materials, the products are surprisingly affordable and extremely wearable, both in everyday life and at more exclusive events. We really love this sterling silver ring, with a white sapphire, from the KINZ KANAAN Super Love Power Collection – a collection that is designed to be symbols of empowerment for the individual. KINZ KANAAN is definitely a brand, worth keeping an eye on. www.kinzkanaan.com
SUMMER LOVIN’ HAPPEND SO FAST Everyone, man woman and child, needs a big bag, to carry all their shit for the summer; emergency swim suit, some hair products (for after the possible swim), sun screen, sunglasses, a sweater for the chilly nights and the list goes on for all eternity. There’s something about the spring/summer season that makes life a little unpredictable, so you never know where the day will take you or what you should be dressing for. This makes the carry-all a kind of must for the season. A bag that can be used for all purposes and most of all, hold all your seasonal life-essentiels. The carry-all bag makes life more bearable during hectic days of summer fun and lovin’, where you usually don’t make it home from brunch, before you go out on the town or to a spontaneous barbecue or picnic in the evening. Therefor you need a carry-all that looks appropriate for both a day at the beach, as well as at a night club and all things in between. We rather fancy this chic and simple unisex bag from 5PREVIEW and we think it would be perfect to carry around all our necessities for the summer. Yes, this bag may be our +1 for most events, for the spring and summer season. www.5preview.se
you can LEAVE YOUR HAT ON The spring/summer sun means lots of good things, bit it’s not sugar and spice and everything nice, if you’re coming home late from a night of partying. There are worse things, we admit, but the pain you feel when you’re blinded by natural light limping out of a night club, is excruciating. Suddenly you get an instant hangover and some new found sympathy for Dracula. This is where a stylish cap is useful, because you can wear it during your nighttime debaucheries and look good. Whereas wearing sunglasses at night can make you look like total idiot or a striver. We’re so ready to put on this gorgeous cap from BIBI CHEMNITZ, during our summer nights of drunken revelry and cherish it as it protects us from the blinding sun, on our walks of shame. Bring it on sun, we’re ready for ya! www.bibichemnitz.com
a step in a new direction Is there anything like Italian leather shoes? We don’t think so and we’re really cruisin’ these particular Italien-made, brown, braided mens shoes from SCARPA (my, that was a lot of adjectives). We think these shoes are perfect for the artistic bohemian lifestyle, we plan to construct for ourselves over the spring/ summer season. www.scarpa.dk
l’esprit de l’artiste Nothing constructs an aura of being a charming and spirited artiste, than wearing a delicate pochette around your neck – especially, if it’s not cold out. We’d love to wear this mens pochette from SAND, as a scarf all this spring/summer season. It could really help us orchestrate some sensibilité artistique. www.sandcopenhagen.com
HAVING IT BOTH WAYS Vertical or horizontal stripes, which are more stylish? This has actually been an ongoing debate for us, one that will never be decided. But taking a cue from old school avantgarde artists, it could be advisable to explore both options – like with this stylish mens shirt from ASOS. Besides, graphic prints are soooo Russian constructivistic and we love that! www.asos.com
peacock dressing We’ve always thought that R23PO and the tin man wasn’t appreciated for their avantgarde, fashionforward style. Now, we’re more into silver, than tin, but we’d like to follow in the tin man on the metalliccraze and peacock with this super shiny mens jacket from WEEKDAY. We’re sure it’ll brighten up the spring/summer nights. www.weekday.com
THE BACKSIDE
‘ The DISCLAIMER all views expressed, is not necessarily those of ugly fat, but by the individuals saying them. all rights of pictures is reserved by the various copywright holders, and is run in ugly fat magazine with permission by either/and/or the producing company, their pr agency, the photographers, designers and so on....bla bla! Basically, we’re not really to blame in any way.