A TELIER AUTUMN ON MY MIND
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CLOS E R TO N AT U R E
S O O N AVAI LABLE AT STE RLI NG
Winter is an etching, spring a watercolor, summer an oil painting and autumn a mosaic of them all. - Stanley Horowitz
AUTUMN
ON
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MY MIN D
t's autumn and the COVID-19 pandemic is still with us. The COVID-19 pandemic continues to reshape society in lasting ways, from how we travel and buy homes, to the level of security and surveillance we’re
accustomed to, and even to the language we use. It continues to reorient our relationship to the outside world and even to each other. Touching things, being with other people and breathing the air in an enclosed space can be risky. Indeed, it could become second nature to recoil from shaking hands or touching our faces—and we might all find we can’t stop washing our hands. Moreover, the comfort of being in the presence of others might be replaced by a greater comfort with absence, especial-
Editor: Omar Vella - atelier@unionprint.com.mt Proof Reading: Ramona Marie Vella Cini Design: Ryan Bezzina - design@unionprint.com.mt Front image:
Courtesy of - Rachelle Borg Dingli Photography - Brian Grech Photos: We thank all contributers for
ly with those we don’t know intimately. However, crisis moments also
providing photos and images.
present opportunity: more sophisticated and flexible use of technology,
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less polarization, a revived appreciation for the outdoors and life’s other
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simple pleasures. In this evolving new global era, we are called to continue with our lives. We are called to find a way to ensure proper education to our children, we are called to continue interacting with others and we are also called to continue creating and inventing. In this context, photography plays a key role since it provides a snapshot of how society has changed, how human behaviour has changed and above all, how life has changed. Stay safe!
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Design & Architecture 10
Greg Keffer
Beauty 34 40 48 54
Anthea Zammit Dorianne Richard Amanda Greaves Clayton Balzan
Fashion 60 68
Catherine EberlĂŠ-Devaux Robyn Zammit
Society 76
Rachelle Borg Dingli
92 104
Naomi Mugliette Dana Farrugia
Photography 122 128
Caroline O' Callaghan Nadette Clare-Talbot
136 142
Sean Mallia Hendrik Kerstens
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DESIGN ARCHITECTURE
&
Form ever follows function. Louis Sullivan
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Photo credit: Michael Kleinberg The Fleur Room
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A
Client ' s Client' Narrative INTERVIEW
WITH
GREG
KEFFER
The art of design comes not from the end product that is created, but the artistic and innovative mindset required to turn an abstract concept into a reality. Certainly two different architects would disagree on what constitutes a proper definition of ‘architecture’. The idea dates since the first creations of architecture, with historians such as Marcus Vitruvuis echoing the notion of “firmness, commodity
and delight” to be the ideals of what is deemed as a social art and an artful science.
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With time comes new forms of ideals. This field is no stranger to the constant change in appearances and standards. Fortunately, we were given the opportunity to discuss the innovative and creative process that is derived from the world of architecture as we spoke to Greg Keffer. Mr Keffer is a Partner and Studio Leader at the world acclaimed Rockwell Group. Founded in 1984 by David Rockwell, the firm is an award-winning, interdisciplinary practice of architecture and design based in New York City composed of 250 people, with additional satellite
Hotel EMC2, Chicago - Archive Lounge
offices located in Madrid and Los Angeles. To name only one area of expertise that Rockwell is capable of doing is a challenge in itself as they have a portfolio so vast that it will require a separate article. However, to name a few, their work which they eloquently dub as their ‘curiosites’ span from the hospitality industry, to nightlife and entertainment, educational facilities and not to mention their affinity for the theatre.
Photo Credit: Geodie Wood
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Greg Keffer walked us through the creative process at Rockwell Group, as the company harnessed their levels of expertise into big projects.
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Photo Credit: Emily Andrews 30 Hudson Yards - New York
“At Rockwell Group, we care most about how our designs are experienced, not theorized—how they are felt “on the ground” on an average day. Our work is driven by the client and the stories we want to tell together, not a prescriptive style. We begin every project with tons of research and brainstorming before we begin to think about a solution. Then we overlay these ideas with the obsessions and interests we have in the studio—around how things are made and how materials are used, inventive combinations, rituals, choreography, etc.”
Hotel EMC2, Chicago
Mr Keffer himself has been responsible for a variety of notable projects that include the hospitality designs of the Nobu Hotel in Barcelona, Moxy in Chelsea, New York, East Village and South Beach and the Kempinski Chengdu; to creative undertakings such as the HQ of Warner Music Group in Los Angeles as well as luxurious residential experiences like the Fifteen Hudson Yards.
The performing arts is one of the cornerstones of Rockwell Group. Mr Keffer highlighted the fact that the firm strives to create new and innovative projects that have a “sense of surprise, reveal, and anticipation”, an attribute adopted for “[their] deep interest in the theater”. This interest can be traced back to David Rockwell’s heritage, with his mother being a dancer and choreographer and “would often cast him in community repertory productions.” This love for the theater translated into a Tony Award for Best Scenic Design for the 2016 musical ‘She Loves Me’ along with six other Tony nominations.
“We use theater as a lens for design. That is, design as a social experience, a means of communication, as a collaborative process to create and an aesthetic universe only limited by imagination, with a sense of ephemerality.”
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Everything from construction methods to building materials to changes to the way people use space has shifted in the last decade. Moxy East Village - New York Cathedrale Dining Room
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By far, one of the company’s major pillars is the hospitality industry. The launch of the W Hotel in New York City was the firm’s first hotel project. The concept revolutionised the hotel industry, whereby it turned the lobby into a living space for people to unwind and relax. Since then, over 40 hotels worldwide have been designed by Rockwell Group. The challenge to remain innovative is an essential ingredient for the firm, and as Mr Keffer explained: “We continue to find ideas and solutions in the uncharted spaces between disciplines, between typologies. I think the “in between” space, and the edges and boundaries of a discipline, is where fresh ideas are born.” These words resonate with other projects Rockwell Group have carried out, one of which is their modular dining concept for restaurants. Such a concept has been adopted in New York whereby a pilot project has been carried to instill “a safe environment for restaurant workers and guests, and by utilizing space within and outside restaurants during this period of social distancing.” The need to adapt has allowed Rockwell to apply their talents to allow people to “jump-start their businesses.”
It is no surprise that the current COVID-19 pandemic has been a deterrent to business of all shapes and sizes. Greg Keffer outlined the firm’s continuous efforts to adapt and persist in such times for not just themselves but for the community around them. Their efforts have tried to create space for “those that can be used for groups and individuals and also further connect public and private spaces so there’s a more seamless transition between spaces.” The situation clearly has not halted their work ethic, as in August a new hybrid retail shop-restaurant for Murray’s Cheese in New York was launched and more projects including the openings for a Moxy hotel in South Beach Miami and a new Virgin hotel in Las Vegas amongst other dining experiences are in the pipeline. In a time when major aspects from our daily lives have been halted, Rockwell Group is a clear example of why a flexible and creative work ethic is a fundamental component of carrying forward not only a firm, but a community. Mr Keffer expresses this through the following statement, “It is a moment for us to rethink the value of urban space and ensure that it is used to benefit communities in need.”
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BIODIVERCITY PAVES SUSTAINABLE FUTURE FOR PENANG ISLAND BIG, HIJJAS AND RAMBOLL SELECTED AS WINNER OF PENANG STATE GOVERNMENT’S COMPETITION TO DESIGN PENANG SOUTH ISLANDS MASTERPLAN
Images by BIG-Bjarke Ingels Group
BIG, Hijjas and Ramboll propose a vision for a new sustainable destination where cultural, ecological and economic growth is secured and where people and nature co-exist in one of the most biodiverse places on the planet at the southern shore of Penang Island: BiodiverCity.
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Penang State Government initiated an international design competition in January 2020 to transform Penang South Islands into a sustainable, global destination, providing Penangites with approximately 4.6km of public beaches, 600 acres of parks and a 25km waterfront. BIG, Hijjas and Ramboll’s masterplan proposal – BiodiverCity – supports the Penang2030 vision with a clear focus on livability, on stimulating a socially and economically inclusive development, and on environmentally sustainability for future generations.
“The State Government hereby announces and congratulates BIG-Bjarke Ingels Group for PSI. BIG’s team together with Hijjas and Ramboll, brings together the best global and local expertise, and background in projects which are designed at the intersection of society, ecology and economy. The team’s sustainably focused philosophy is rooted in the belief that projects can be good for people, and for the environment. The BiodiverCity Penang masterplan envisions three biodiverse and sustainable islands designed to secure economic, cultural and ecological
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growth using local and global technologies, and collective knowledge. By preserving and developing an ecologically diverse landscape, the islands promote coexistence with nature. BIG, Hijjas and Ramboll will be working closely with the Penang State Government, collaborators and stakeholders to finalize the masterplan and develop a set of urban design guidelines for PSI. The team will also be in close collaboration with the State to ensure that all facets of the project celebrate both the heritage and innovation that characterize Penang, while creating a home for its growing communities, economies and ecologies.” Hon. Mr. Chow Kon Yeow, Chief Minister of Penang, Malaysia. Penang’s vast biodiversity spans various topographies and protected environments which, in recent years, have seen its coastal zones and natural habitats disrupted by urban developments. In contrast, BiodiverCity is conceived as an Urban Mosaic of three diverse islands, and a set of urban design guidelines for mixing programs, addressing pedestrian and mobility networks, building sustainably and harvesting resources. The three islands bring together mixed-use districts of 15,000 to 18,000 residents across 50 to 500 acres, and a continuous 50 to 100m buffer around each district, establishing habitat connectivity and supporting edge ecologies in reserves, parks, corridors and urban plazas. “It is an immense honour to have been chosen to imagine this new contribution to the Malaysian archipelago. Architecture and design at its core is the art and science of giving form to our future. In no case is this more evident than here, where we are literally embarking on a journey to create more of Malaysia for future generations. We have decided to set the bar as high as humanly possible by imagining a new archipelago that aims to be both more culturally and biologically diverse than previous developments. BiodiverCity will have an integrated system of localized water resources, renewable energy and
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waste management, tied altogether in a humanmade ecosystem. Rather than design a city for cars, we designed BiodiverCity for waterways, rail and different kinds of personal mobility, forming a multimodal environment of movement. The resultant urban landscape will be a celebration of Penang's position as a truly global crossroads of the world - economically, ecologically and socially.” Bjarke Ingels, Founder and Creative Director, BIG-Bjarke Ingels Group.
The Channels, BiodiverCity's first island, is constructed in three complementary phases: in Phase 1, Active Destinations include a wave pool and technology park; in Phase 2, a Civic Heart establishes governance and research institutions in the area; and in Phase 3, a Cultural Coast builds upon the heritage and vibrant creative energy of Penang’s George Town to create a regional and international draw. As the heart of the district, the Channels’ 500-acre digital park includes spaces for research, development and local business opportunities. Malaysia’s newest public destination will be the future home for conferences, education centers and a family-oriented park where locals and guests can explore the world of technology, robotics and virtual reality. “At the south-end of Penang Island, BiodiverCity’s ecologically diverse landscape promotes co-existence with natural elements while giving ground for communal experiences rooted within Malaysian heritage. A network of biologically rich islands is scaled and programmed
A TELIER new normal based on a social contract that puts us in harmony with nature and ensures inclusivity for all, both Penangites and the environment.” Serina Hijjas, Principal Architect, HIJJAS. At the center of the Mangroves, the Bamboo Beacon hosts meetings, conferences and major events—broadcasting the knowledge developed in BiodiverCity out to the world. In addition, civic amenities are distributed throughout the city to
to accommodate diversity in social experiences for Penangites and newly established habitats for native plant and animal species.” Daniel Sundlin, Partner, BIG-Bjarke Ingels Group.
promote inclusive growth and participation in urban life.
The Mangroves, BiodiverCity's second and central island dedicated to businesses, is organized around a network of sheltered urban wetlands, creating suitable environments for its namesake Mangrove forests—an important natural infrastructure that doubles as effective powerhouses for sequestering more than four times as much carbon as a typical forest.
be constructed by low-carbon materials such as bamboo and Malaysian timber in combination with green concrete, a sustainable alternative comprised of industrial waste and recycled materials. By encouraging green roofs, facades, public and private open spaces, the islands can form a nearly continuous habitat mosaic feeding back into the forests, beaches, riparian zones and estuaries at the island’s edges.
“Penang’s vibrant multicultural society and biodiverse ecosystem plays a vital role in the social, economic and physical well-being of its inhabitants. As the local architect and planner, we worked together with BIG and Ramboll to secure inclusivity across all levels, including people, culture, nature and land for Penangites. BiodiverCity is designed on this premise of ensuring a sound future and a
The buildings in BiodiverCity will be designed to perform efficiently and will to a large extent
“The Penang South Island vision includes an adaptive infrastructure management platform to harness the site’s renewable resources provided by the sun, wind, rain and ocean. The platform will be ‘plug-and-play’ and include governance to incentivize the use of emerging green technologies as part of an evolving resource management
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solution.” Shonn Mills, Global Director, Ramboll. The Laguna, BiodiverCity's westernmost island, is an oasis for ecological living, organized around a central marina. Eight smaller islands form a miniature archipelago, where floating, stilted and terraced housing takes advantage of the natural setting of Tanjung Gertak Sanggul, and where fisherman landing points can easily access the open waters by navigating each of the island’s waterways. Meanwhile, newly established marine habitats support biodiversity underwater by providing spawning grounds for native species, and recreational points and hatcheries support the local communities along Penang’s southern coast. A web of ecological corridors connects forest reserves to coastal beaches while supporting habitats and communities across the islands. Within humanpopulated areas, animals are given safe passage
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through the continuous canopy and waterways, and within natural habitats, people can safely access elevated boardwalks. BiodiverCity supports a water, air and land-based autonomous public transportation network, aiming for a car free environment where streets serve as a safe and welcoming thoroughfare for bikers and pedestrians. Districts are efficiently connected below platforms to increase the efficiency of goods, services and regional mobility, while maximizing pedestrian safety throughout the public realm. BiodiverCity is BIG’s latest masterplan unveiling following Toyota Woven City at the CES conference earlier this year. Last year, BIG presented Oceanix City at the United Nations high-level roundtable on Sustainable Floating Cities, bringing together innovators, explorers, marine engineers and scientists at the UN Headquarters to share ideas and solutions to the threat faced by coastal cities and countries due to rising sea levels.
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The importance of good
LIGHTING during Covid-19 22
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f you are stuck at home? Let there be good natural lighting as light is essential for our health and wellbeing. It also plays an important role in any interior space. Don’t let light come as an afterthought as when decorating people usually focus on furniture and walls. However, one should consider the power of natural lighting in one’s space. Light can help us regulate our sleep-wake cycle and it will help manage our daily routines. General lighting altogether is important for your space as it helps improve the mood and creates a feel-good factor, that helps one feel energized and able to keep up the concentration levels. Since the days will now get shorter and the nights draw in, good lighting is really important for our eyes as it will help us see properly without straining our eyes. When looking around for light fittings, as a general rule one should keep in mind that all rooms should have layers of light especially during this pandemic when people are spending more time indoors. One should include proper overhead, floor and table or desk lamps. Wall Lights are essential to create an ambiance to make your space feel cosier and warm and it is also good to highlight pictures.
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If you are going to be spending time indoors you need good lighting.
The use of proper lighting such as directional lighting with the use of track lights by Delta Light can provide the right illumination for the entire room as one can highlight specific elements or corners. Track Lighting can be easily hung from a ceiling, with adjustable necks and the lamps that can be easily pointed at specific elements or to highlight home décor. If one spends long hours working on their laptop while staying at home, we suggest that one has proper use of lighting such as desk lamps by Artemide. In the words of Michele De Lucchi, “No desk lamp should make you use two hands to position it”. The Tolomeo lamp is designed for a fully adjustable direction of light. The Artemide lamps are considered on an international level as Design Icons of contemporary design; they are exhibited in most museums of modern art and design collections. If you are looking for minimal lighting design, then Davide Groppi should do the trick as they offer light without limits. They compose light in space with maximum freedom, light that runs on digital tracks, on invisible threads and modular strips. They use light as a tool to see. They speak the language of authenticity which gives words meanings they have never heard before such as the Moon, an idea which
was born from a dream to bring the Moon home. In this particular moment in time it will make anyone feel good about having nature inside their home to feel comfort and calm. Portable Lamps are also a must one should have in their home as they can be carried around from the bedroom, to the kitchen, to the study or else even on the terrace. The iconic Bellhop by FLOS, Come Together by Artemide, Cocktail by LEDS C4 among others offer the practicality as they are wireless, rechargeable and lightweight, the ideal lamp one should have as they create a cosy ambience indoors and out. When it’s time to unwind after a day’s work you need light that changes everything, light by FOSCARINI. Foscarini imagines, develops and produces decorative lamps: night and day, whether they’re on or off, they seduce, surprise and inspire. Foscarini lights are conceived as design objects that transform spaces as they bring beauty and stir emotions. Dinner time will never be the same, as with Spokes suspension lamp it will be extra special. Don’t forget your weekends, as if you are going to be spending time indoors you need good lighting on your terrace as well. With Roger Pradier you will be spoilt for choice as they can supply a wide variety of modern and classic outdoor light fittings for houses, villas, palaces and gardens. One can choose from 60 collections that come in a wide range of colours and a 25-year guarantee against the corrosion of aluminium. With Elektra you’ll be spoilt for choice and it will definitely be built around your needs especially during this particular period in time. Turn your house into a home and keep in my mind the importance of good lighting for healthy lifestyle.
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Sno⁄ hetta
Completes a Lush Open Office Space in Timber for ASI Reisen
W
hen developing its new head office, international trekking and adventure travel company ASI Reisen sought to have its new space reflect the company’s working culture and commitment to offering sustainable trekking experiences for travelers around the world. Situated in Natters, just south of Innsbruck, Austria, this new timber building with an open office concept offers several solutions that will enable the long-term low environmental footprint of the office space. Inspired by a symbiosis between nature and humanity, the design concept was developed together with ASI Reisen’s employees and the design team from Snøhetta.
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Surrounded by a lush exterior, the four-story timber structure combines timber frame construction with solid wooden elements to optimize material use and allow for the greatest amount of open floor plans. In addition to the open office concept and sustainable construction methods, the building features an optimized and sustainable energy concept, based on a combination of high-tech and low-tech solutions. For humans to continue to live and thrive on this planet, the buildings we inhabit and spend most of our lives in need to be built with as much consideration for natural preservation and energy efficiency as for comfort. “With its resource-saving timber construction and sophisticated sustainable energy concept, the new ASI headquarters marks an inspiration for responsibly constructing our homes and office spaces for the future. At the same time, the new office space offers a pleasant and modern working atmosphere for its employees,” explains Patrick Lüth, Managing Director of Snøhetta’s studio in Innsbruck.
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A LUSH FAÇADE A “green curtain” of climbing plants growing on a suspended metal frame covers the blackened wooden façade, ensuring the building blends harmoniously into its verdant forest surroundings. Composed of 17 different warm weather and evergreen species growing in big planters, this green curtain also serves as a glare shield and for shading the generous glass surfaces. On the western side, the employees can use this metal frame as balcony. The 118 climbing plants change the appearance of the façade throughout the year and thus also adapt to seasonal thermal insulation needs. The microclimate created by this green buffer zone reduces the energy required for cooling the building. For the facade, a traditional Japanese method of wood preservation was used, known as yakisugi. Slightly charred and thus carbonized, the façade is both waterproof and durable without the need for further painting, while also protecting against insects. The basement and the building core are made of reinforced concrete. Wood was also used for the mullion-transom-façade, the windows, floors and acoustic panels. Rainwater from the roof is collected in an underground cistern and feeds the automatic irrigation system for the plants on the façade and the garden. Together with the 1,215 new plants in the open space consisting of 73 local species, the green façade also contributes to local biodiversity, ensuring that the building is a good neighbor to its human and other-than-human communities.
The bright and welcoming atmosphere of the building interior is emphasized by the use of light timber as the main material choice.
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AN OPTIMIZED ENERGY CONCEPT To achieve optimal results, the energy concept was tested and adapted using a thermal-dynamic building simulation. A reversible air-water heat pump system (40 kW) heats and cools the building via underfloor heating or cooling. Sensors measuring room temperature, humidity, CO2 and wind, control the natural ventilation using thermal lift and wind pressure conditions to circulate fresh air through the building. The constantly monitored room climate then regulates how wide and how long the ventilation flaps are open. The roof is covered with PV panels, and the electricity generated partly covers the power consumption of the building. By offering solutions that will enable the long-term low environmental footprint of the office space, this flexible and open office space over several floors constitutes a healthy and enjoyable working environment for its users. The building is tailor-made for the needs of ASI Reisen and reflects the values of the company in an intuitive and generous way.
ABOUT ASI REISEN ASI Reisen, founded as family business in 1963, is specialized in worldwide active tours and adventure travel. The company's mission is to develop sustainable experiences for travellers and local communities. The travel portfolio comprises around 1,300 different trips to all continents spanning from hiking tours in small groups with certified guides, individual hiking tours and alpine training, to (e)bike tours and adventure tours.
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GREEN INTERIOR SOLUTIONS The open-plan office is designed for ASI Reisen’s 65 employees but can be flexibly adapted to future needs if required. Gallery spaces create a large, open and flexible office space, including a variety of individual workplaces as well as communal areas. Generous glass surfaces offer panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and forests, and a large staircase and a double-height foyer create a welcoming space for visitors. Affectionately called Base Camp, the lobby is a point of entry where the history of the company is presented on large wall panels. The bright and welcoming atmosphere of the building interior is emphasized by the use of light timber as the main material choice. Employee comfort is prioritized through the inclusion of communal spaces such as meeting niches and rooms, a relaxation room, a cafeteria, showers and changing rooms. Shelves abundant with plants provide a visually pleasing subdivision of the different working zones and offer storage space as well as informal work spaces for reading and writing. A bridge connects the new building with an existing building which includes meeting and relaxation rooms.
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CREATING YOUR WALL
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lacing decor on walls is a very personal statement. From childhood bedrooms and your first share house to buying your first
home, there is something deeply satisfying about making a statement with wall decor. Yet this is often the most over-looked element of decorating a home. When everything else has been chosen, a bare wall can make a room appear unfinished. Minimalist décor notwithstanding, a room needs space to breathe and the eye needs a place to rest. However, from a single artwork to a wall of eclectic images the beauty of artful arrangements cannot be under-estimated. Indeed, those empty walls are filled with possibilities—and a few additions can make a house feel like a home. If you're ready to turn those stark, bare walls into stylish centerpieces, keep reading. No matter your style, we've got the tricks that can amp up your walls and bring out your personality and taste. Whether you’re an art decor, a nature enthusiast, or a book lover, your walls can be customized so that you can be surrounded by the things you adore.
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Today, there is something more on the market which can offer that extra 'aha' factor to your wall. Lucentini handmade tiles are the new trend in the local interior design industry. They are bold, colourful, artistic, distinct and truly bring to life any empty space in a house or any other living space. Irrespective of how you use them, Lucentini tiles are a great way to spruce up your walls. Indeed, their stylish and elegant kick make them the logical choice for any wall project you have in mind. Unlike static painting one can vary the display from time to time combining different colors, styles, designs, shapes and an infinite combination of ideas. Whether you use several to fill a wall or a small number to make a statement, Lucentini tiles can give your room a unique and personalized look. You can even overlap pieces, and it’s also easy to mix and match different kinds of tiles. Like a gallery wall, you can plan out a configuration or just keep adding to your collection organically as you prefer. Lucentini tiles are truly worth a place on your wall. Be brave. Try, it. It can’t go wrong.
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HAND MADE
WWW.LUCENCTINISHOP.COM
CERAMICS
20B ST. LUCIA STREET VALLETTA
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B E AU T Y
All little girls should be told they are pretty, even if they aren't. Marilyn Monroe
Model: Marina @ models M Photography: Matthew B. Spiteri Make-up: Amanda Greaves
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A FACE LIKE THAT Anthea INTERVIEW
WITH
ZAMMIT
S
tunning, confident and with a charming aura would be a perfect way to describe newly crowned Miss Universe Malta 2020, Anthea Zammit. She is not only beautiful on the outside but also in the inside, a characteristic which fits perfectly with this year's Miss Universe slogan - Confidently Beautiful. The twenty-six-year-old beauty is not just a pretty face. The law student and professional dance teacher stands out of a busy crowd thanks to her sincere and genuine demeanour and amicable aura. Anthea is focused and is never seen beating around the bush. Above all she is spontaneous and a natural beauty queen, the fact that makes her unique.
Anthea's good looks make her participation in Miss Universe Malta 2020 a natural decision. However Miss Universe Malta is more than just a title. She seeks to make a difference in her country and that is what she plans to do. Above all, her participation served to expose the harm caused by psychological distress. She highlighted the problem by sharing her own experience of psychological abuse. Indeed,
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two years ago, Anthea endured the trauma of a psychological abuse in which she felt undervalued. Behind what many felt was a dazzling presence on stage, her charming smile hid a harrowing emotional experience. Anthea notes; “I was made to believe that I was just not good enough. People said negative things just to bring me down. I had a very traumatic experience,� she says.
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We ask her what does beauty mean to her to which she quotes the famous American psychologist, Elisabeth Kubler-Ross, "People are like stainedglass windows. They sparkle and shine when the sun is out, but when the darkness sets in, their true beauty is revealed only if there is a light from within." She remarks that beauty is not only about the looks but also about a beautiful inner soul. Atelier also asks Anthea whether good looks play a key role in contemporary society to which she notes, "Good looks are definitely a plus when it comes to creating a great first impression and attracting more opportunities. However, I do believe that good looks aren’t worth much if they’re not coupled with a great personality. In fact, I’d rather make a great, lasting impression by using my personality, than make a short-lived one based on my looks." She also shares with us her views on women empowerment. Anthea believes that women empowerment is basically lifting each other up. "As women, we put other women on pedestals. We make sure that they are highly spoken of. It’s not about being a feminist or it’s not about “the males being better than the females” or anything like that. But it’s more of a balance and making sure that we are proud of our own gender and that we carry it with great pride."
People are like stained-glass windows. They sparkle and shine when the sun is out, but when the darkness sets in, their true beauty is revealed only if there is a light from within.
It is time to conclude yet without further ado, we ask Anthea what's next for her. With her glowing eyes and a dazzling smile, she notes, “I am today a different Anthea. I feel grown-up having been through certain experiences that made me more mature.” Indeed, now in her third year of the law degree, Anthea says her career plans have helped her beliefs become stronger. Her knowledge of human rights in particular, inspires her to want to help others. She also looks forward to one day opening her own dance school and having a family. She admits though that without the support of the people close to her and the experience she gained through her life experience, she would certainly not be where she is today.
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Her Point
of
View
Dorianne INTERVIEW WITH RICHARD
W
here to begin? Dorianne Richard is bold, smart and incredibly attractive. Her style, her tattoos, her unconventional hair colours and her deep blue eyes are a perfect combination of what we can fairly call a beautiful woman. Yet Dorianne is not only about the looks. She is also kind, gentle, warm, caring, openly emotional and with a smile and a laugh that lights up every place she is in. Dorianne took the time to chat with Atelier about her life, her definition of beauty, cosmetic surgeries and her plans for the future. Photography: Carlton Agius Hair: Neville Roman Zammit
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Everyone is beautiful in his own way however growing up I changed the perspective of what beauty means to me. Beautiful is a woman who has a distinctive personality, one who can laugh at anything.
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Teri Hatcher recently noted, "Beauty is a combination of qualities. I don't think one can deny that certain people or things feel aesthetically pleasing. But without an equally pleasing being behind that form, there is no beauty there." Do you agree? To be quite honest I do not fully agree with the status Who is Dorianne Richard? I am forty years old, happily married for the past nine years and currently working as a brand representative in the beauty industry. I’ve been working in the beauty industry for more than 20 years. During these years I’ve gained a lot of experience throughout my carrier. I’m very passionate about this field and it goes hand in hand with fashion which is my other passion. I also like to travel, learning new things and to discover new cultures that enrich my life. During my free time especially in summer I enjoy swimming and sunbathing. Added to that I frequently go to the gym to keep fit and healthy I believe that a healthy body reflects a healthy mind.
What does beauty mean to you? Everyone is beautiful in his own way however growing up I changed the perspective of what beauty means to me. Beautiful is a woman who has a distinctive personality, one who can laugh at anything, including themselves, and one who is especially kind and caring to others, knows the value of having fun, and not taking life too seriously. Beauty means feeling comfortable in your own skin and appreciating your imperfections... feeling good about yourself, whether it is because of makeup or nice clothes or exercising, it is having confidence in yourself
above since I believe that the inner beauty is as much important as the outer one.
To put it in Christina Aguilera's words, "It’s the beautiful people they want, it’s the beautiful people they love." Does physical appearance still affect one’s job prospects, promotion opportunities, and relative income? Although I strongly believe that an individual shouldn’t be judged by the physical appearance, in my personally opinion having a strong character is the key. However, I tend to agree that yes, the physical appearance still at this day has a strong impact in our society.
What are your thoughts about plastic surgery? Monica Bellucci once noted, "Everybody does what she needs. And if you want plastic surgery, and then you feel better, why not? There is no law. I've nothing against using something to help your beauty - but do it in a good way, with intelligence." To what extent do you agree? Yes, I do agree as long as one doesn’t go through extremes like everything else in life. I agree because it gives confidence to most individuals as at the end of the day everyone wants to look at their best. It’s very important to maintain a good balance between opting for plastic surgery and maintaining a healthy lifestyle.
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A TELIER In what way do you feel social media has also played a part in the increase of cosmetic surgeries in the last few years? Social media has a huge impact in this field. Spending longer hours on social media may result negative self evaluation and also influences beauty trends and the way we see ourselves, especially when it comes to the younger generation since most of them get influenced by fictitious emotions and circumstances.
What is your main source of inspiration when it comes to staying up to date on the fashion industry? When it comes to inspiration, I get it mostly from fashion shows, fashion designers and influencers. As regards to my style, sometimes it depends on my mood and place, however I always trust my instinct, and combine different trends and dress whatever I feel comfortable in, since I believe clothing gives an idea of your character ‌.
Has the COVID-19 pandemic redefined our definition of fashion and beauty? Although the pandemic has affected fashion and beauty, people still found a way for treating themselves at home with homecare treatments and natural remedies, I have to say that I still kept my daily skin care regime plus I appreciated that I had more time to dedicate to myself. Every morning I still used to make an effort to dress up in lounge wear clothing to feel good with myself. During the first weeks of the COVID-19, online shopping has drastically increased. By the reopening of shops and salons we were reminded how enjoyable is the experience of going into a store or having a treatment in the salon.
Any projects in the pipeline? For the time being I’ve decided to dedicate more time for myself and my family as I’ve realised the simplest things in life make me happier and fulfilled.
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The Colour of Your Face INTERVIEW WITH
A
A
MAND GREAVES
A
manda is a true magician with the brush. Her natural ability to make clients not only look beautiful, but feel beautiful has made her a favourite among a versatile group of local heavyweights in the fashion and entertainment industry. Her passion for makeup, practically radiates off of her and excites everyone in who graces her presence, too. Her work is instantly recognizable: fresh, glowing women who exude confidence and a fierce tan. Amanda sat down with Atelier to talk about her journey in the world of makeup, her definition of beauty and what colours to go for in Autumn.
Hair: Neville Roman Zammit
When and how did you get into the beauty industry? Well, does playing dress-up with makeup count? My passion for makeup started from a young age. I would say that my mum set the muse, I 'd always be in awe when I'd see her apply her makeup and everytime I could, I would steal her makeup bag and lock myself in the room. Hahaha, the good old days! I am technically a self-taught makeup artist, as
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I grew older I started buying well known magazines and reapply the looks of the cover or of makeup ads. Then in 2009 I started working in a well-established makeup shop and worked there for 4 years. After that I wanted to grow as an artist so went freelance and thanks to a photographer, who is now a good friend, introduced me to the world of fashion and here we are!
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Model: Gaia Cauchi Stylist: Malcolm Gauci Photography: Gary Bugeja Make-up: Amanda Greaves for make-up campaign-revolution
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Model: Floret Photography: Matthew B. Spiteri Make-up: Amanda Greaves for make-up Polisart Distinctive by: Adriana Calleja
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What do you love most about makeup? I love everything about it, I love the reaction when a client is finished, the confidence it gives. I love the before and after, but what I love the most is that I can express myself with it, it is the only time I can get lost in a different world and there are no questions asked.
How would you describe your signature look? I love clean looks, I love the skin looking healthy and not overdone or caked up. I always aim for glowing skin as after all makeup is there to enhance. My mantra is always less is more!
Everyone can look like an artist, with the proper self-care. What is beauty for you? For me, beauty comes from within, it means feeling comfortable in your own skin and appreciating your imperfections and feeling good about yourself, whether it is because of makeup or nice clothes or exercising, it is having confidence in yourself.
Does everyone look better with makeup? When applied correctly yes, I think the right amount of makeup makes everyone look prettier and more confident.
To what extent do you feel that with some effort people may look like artists? Everyone can look like an artist, with the proper self-care. That is one thing that I always tell my clients: take care of your skin. A good skin care is so important as without it, your skin will look tired and dehydrated and will show even with makeup on. Proper grooming is important too, get your hair done, spoil yourself with a weekly blowdry, get your nails manicured, eyebrows tinted. It is the small details and self-love that makes us look exquisite.
American makeup artist, entrepreneur, and voice actress, Michelle Phan once noted that, "makeup is not a mask that covers up your beauty; it's a weapon that helps you express who you are from the inside." To what extent do you agree? Well I completely agree, makeup can be very expressive. Let's face it, when a woman feels confident she will dare to wear a red lipstick, but when she is not feeling herself she might opt for something more subtle. If you look closely at individuals makeup can describe them. In fact when I am doing a client, I like to converse with them so I get know what type of person they are, whether she is confident in her own skin or whether she is a bit reserved. That way I can adapt the look and make the client feel confident with the final result.
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Models left to right: Roxanne, Gabriela G @models M and Hannah @ supernovamodels Photography: Matthew B. Spiteri Make-up: Amanda Greaves for Mvintage Distinctive by: Adriana Calleja
Beauty Instagram profiles have become a major influence to the beauty industry. What are the pros and cons of such trend? Well, I must admit I love some of the trends and loathe others. Instagram makeup is heavy. Do you imagine yourself going out with a look that takes 3 hours to achieve? Or do you think that the baking method is good for editorial shoots? Or being a bride with heavy looking makeup? I myself sometimes create Instagram looks but literally to just take a photo, post and remove it. For every day, some looks are just not doable. I follow a lot of beauty instagrammers but only let fellow makeup artist influence me.
Any makeup tips for the autumn season? Well, this autumn's trend is with a main focus on the eyebrows. Let them be wild, ungroomed, as feathered brows are the hottest thing right now! If you love eyeshadow, go for nice warm
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shades, with hint of oranges and warm browns. If you are an eyeliner person this is your time go ahead do a double wing. Skin should look healthy, glowing and rosy and gloss is back on ladies and gentlemen who want their lips to look hydrated.
What advice can you give to prospective students thinking about an education and career as makeup artists? It’s all about heart and passion! Mixed with ambition and the will to succeed. Your education doesn’t stop at the end of your course. You’ll learn the technical aspects of your profession in school, but you’ll refine your skills in your day-to-day work with clients. So get out there, practise. Keep up with trends, stay focused, believe in your techniques, create new ones. And most importantly no matter how far you go, never forget where you started!
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Model: Danika Magro Photography: Kris Micallef & Stefan Varga Make-up: Amanda Greaves
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A CUT
ABOVE THE REST INTERVIEW
WITH
Clayton
BALZAN
B
efore you see the covers, editorials, and advertisements comes the artists that curate them including the
hairdressers. Clayton Balzan is one of these artists. He is considered by many as a true talent and one of the major exponents of the local hairdressing industry. He first discovered his passion for hair as a teen and since then has come a long way having worked with some of the most well-known names on the island. Atelier caught up with Clayton to talk about what attracted him to the world of hairdressing, what makes hairdressing such an exciting profession, and his role as vice president of the Hair & Beauty Federation, Malta.
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How did it all start? Fashion was always an area I was keen on. I fondly followed fashion related TV programmes and that further instilled in me an interest to know more about the sector and a want to pursue a career in fashion. However, it all started when I was twelve years old. I attended several after school private classes until I finished secondary school when I started working and followed a City and Guild Diploma to specialise further in hairdressing.
What makes the hairdressing industry such an exciting world to work in? I absolutely love everything about my job! In fact, I don’t consider my craft a job, I think of it as a privilege. I’m extremely fortunate and blessed to be able to do what I love every day. When it comes to untamed creativity and personal fulfilment, hardly any profession in this world compares to hairdressing. Each day is filled with new challenges and clients who genuinely appreciate your work. You are, after all, the one who makes them look and feel wonderful!
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Photos: Bernard Polidano Makeup: Natasha Polidano Hair: Clayton Balzan Fiamminage Outfit: Natasha Polidano Filigree jewellery: Kevin Attard Model: Christina Bartoli - Models M Photoshoot for Venere produced by Motion blur and Unique Promotions - Malta in Valletta Malta Dress: Natasha Polidano
Vidal Sassoon once noted, "Hairdressing in general hasn't been given the kudos it deserves. It's not recognised by enough people as a worthy craft." To what extent do you agree? Hairdressing could be an art form, hairdressers, like artists, have the ability to see the world differently and express it and themselves through their work. Most hairdressers do that, it’s part of the job. The problem comes with value, because hairdressing it so transient, so everyday, so commonplace. Having said that, I believe media raised better awareness on the profession which inevitably contributed to respect and appreciation hairdressing really merits.
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Who is your ultimate hair icon and why? I would certainly go for Vidal Sassoon and Patrick Cameron.
Debunk the biggest hair myth you’ve heard. Cut your hair frequently to make it grow faster. What’s the craziest request you’ve ever had? To be honest, today, it is hard to define the term 'crazy'. Everything seems to fall within the parameters of normality. In what way has the COVID-19 pandemic changed client behaviour? Every industry has been impacted in some way by COVID-19 pandemic restrictions, but for hairdressers and other hands-on beauty service providers, the impact was huge at times even devastating. This was partially due to consumer behaviour. People do not really care much about how they look. They are worried about their family and friends and the world at large. Autumn is associated with extreme humidity. What would be your top tip on how to handle hair problems during this time of the year? For Autumn, we suggest some hydrating, nourishing and moisture treatment after all the heat and sun. We also highly recommend Keratin treatment. What's next for you? I recently started getting involved in local editorial hair. I am also looking forward to continue working on international magazines shoots Photo: Bernard Polidano Makeup: Chris Attard Hair: Clayton Balzan Fiamminage Outfit: Natasha Polidano
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Model: Rebecca Camilleri - Supernova Models
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Malta’s newest Hospital. Right at your doorstep.
St Thomas Hospital Valletta Road Qormi
Now Open. 57 Call us on 21 482 482
FA S H I O N
Great personal style is an extreme curiosity about yourself. Iris Apfel, HuffPost
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Model: Desphina @ models M Photography: Matthew B. Spiteri Make-up: Amanda Greaves
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About Catherine EberlĂŠ-Devaux
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time
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T
ime in itself is an abstract concept, yet centuries of craftsmanship have been
able to materialise a tool designed for measurement into a fashion identity for millions of people around the globe. There are certainly a number of big players in the world of watchmaking, however, few have had the longevity in this space that TAG Heuer has.
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TAG Heuer is a veteran in the watch industry. The brand had started off in a small shop in Saint Imier, Switzerland where a 20 year old Edouard Heuer sold silver pocket watches. Today, it has become one of the leading faces of time keeping, with race legends such as Steve McQueen and Aryton Senna, to blockbuster movie stars such as Chris Hemsworth all sporting the iconic brand. In the past few weeks I was given the opportunity to interview Ms Catherine Eberlé-Devaux, the Director of Heritage at TAG Heuer, who spoke about the brand’s identity, its history and its future in the world of watches. Her role is to understand the brand’s past in order to reinforce their modern identity. As the Director of Heritage, she also oversees the restoration of vintage watches and the creation of exhibits for the brand. Ms Eberlé-Devaux spoke about brand identity, how in her view “ the strength of TAG Heuer has always been finding this balance between respecting its unmatched heritage and innovating at the same time. ” As a company that has been around for 160 years, TAG Heuer has designed some well known timepieces, which include the motorsport racing inspired ‘Monaco’ and ‘Carrera’ to name a few.
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“As a brand, our tradition is actually very modern and forward-thinking. It’s made of innovation and avant-garde. We have always been in the present moment, not nostalgic, and that spirit has been very consistent throughout the different eras. ”
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Such a statement is reinforced when the TAG Heuer lineup was updated back in 2015 with the introduction of ‘Connected’, a line of smartwatches which despite its modern technology is “directly tied to [their] heritage of measuring performance through the ages. ”
A TELIER When one refers to TAG Heuer, the brand is often symbolic in the world of sports. Ms EberléDevaux herself stated that “ Sports has always been an organic playground for the brand ” and with ambassadors and partnerships with the likes of Manchester United, Aston Martin Red Bull racing, MXGP and tennis champion Petra Kvitova, it is not hard to see why. Jack Heuer, the great-grandson of the founder of the company, helped in leading the brand into the household name it is today. Through the 60s and 70s, he saw to it that the brand delivers “timepieces that are reliable – failure or error is not an option when you are racing – and that are accurate”. This mentality is what led to TAG Heuer’s affinity with sports, particularly motorsport. The Carrera was inspired by the 50s Carrera Panamericana race, with the city themed Monaco, drawing its inspiration from the McQueen film ‘Le Mans’ and the Silverstone celebrating the England Formula One circuit. Racing is inbuilt into their DNA.
This year, TAG Heuer showcased their latest collection. The new Carrera is the main highlight of the year, with the company going back to their roots to capture “its original spirit and design”. Along with this, to pay homage to their 160 year history, the company released two special edition chronographs: the TAG Heuer Carrera Silver and Montreal.
The Montreal-inspired limited edition is indeed a brand new fusion concept between one of the most beautiful dials of our history and the most iconic collection. Ms Eberlé-Devaux commented on the choice of pairing the 60s racing chronograph, which is one of the company’s major pillars and the colourful 70s era highlight by stating that, “TAG Heuer has such rich historical archives that we are very purposeful in selecting the pieces that stand out and decide together with the Product and Marketing teams which milestones we want to highlight within more than a century and a half of watchmaking innovation.” Over the decades, the brand has presented us with a number of unforgettable slogans, namely their ‘Don’t Crack Under Pressure’. It is however the Carrerra’s new and captivating ‘Forever Chasing Tomorrow’ that resonates with the words of Ms Eberlé-Devaux: “New means unexplored fields where TAG Heuer can innovate with its own philosophy. ” As a brand that prides themselves on their history and their innovative prowess, TAG Heuer sticks true to their ability to time and again build and recreate their identity and leave us only guessing as to what the next big milestone will be. Warren Farrugia
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Leblon Delienne and
Marcel Wanders studio launch 'Sitting Mickey' - an icon reimagined
T
ogether with Leblon Delienne, Marcel Wanders studio launches the Sitting Mickey. After the success of the One Minute Mickey, One Minute Minnie and Mickey's Cheese Platter, the legendary icon has been reimagined and is now available sitting and in different finishes. Set in a relaxed position, the handcrafted resin figurine that measures 12 cm/4,7 inches sits leaning back, with his legs out, supported by his hands on the ground behind him. This new contemporary version of the character that has been beloved around the world for nearly a century is now available in four coloured finishes, including chromed gold, chromed silver, glossy red and matt white. For those who love Mickey Mouse, as well as for those who appreciate unique, handcrafted design, this new offering presents a delightful insight into Marcel Wanders studio imagination. With this piece, The studio shows how it brings the romanticism of past ages into the contemporary moment. In collaboration with Leblon Delienne, Sitting Mickey is available in the Marcel Wanders studio Boutique.
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The Girl Next Door 68
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Interview with
Robyn Zammit
S
tunning, confident and shockingly mature for her age, Robyn Zammit is one of the local rising stars in the fashion industry. At a relatively young age, her career has already reached amazing heights: we see her everywhere from cover photos and campaigns to leading catwalks. Notwithstanding her fame, she still stands with two feet on the ground and strives to reach further heights in her career. We caught up with Robyn who shared with us the meaning of fame, celebrations, successes and the future.
Credit: Kurt Paris
What attracted you to the world of modelling? Who or what inspired you? I got scouted by a modelling agent when I was fifteen. As is every teenager, especially in the early 2010’s, I was very fascinated by the modelling world and the top models of that time. I used to collect fashion magazines and create collages on my bedroom walls with carefully cut out pages. So, it was an extremely exciting opportunity for me back then which I eagerly accepted. How would you describe yourself as a model? I would like to think of myself as someone who strives for the utmost professionalism whilst simultaneously always being down for a good laugh. I enjoy being challenged and pushing my own limits every time I get in front of a camera. It’s always important to me to stay mindful and considerate of the whole team involved in any project and make sure that I’m capturing the mood of the concept as best as I can. Does modelling and athletics coexist together? Yes, absolutely. I was an athlete for ten years, first as a sprinter and then as a triple jumper for the final 3 years. I competed for many international competitions over the course of my sporting career, however after graduating, I decided to retire to focus on my professional work. I started modelling while I was an athlete and I found it very easy to transition my competition mindset to the photoshoot setting. Athletes are used to feeling under pressure and getting a lot of attention while they’re competing so it’s almost natural to then emulate that competitive and determined disposition in front of a camera.
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Credit: Jolie Zocchi
Tell us about your special bond with your mother. My mother is an extremely inspirational woman. She was raised by her grandmother and had to learn to fend for herself at the age of sixteen. She wasn’t able to pursue a higher education because she needed to work in order to support herself and ended up living with nuns for a portion of her teenage years until she could get on her feet. In spite of all of this, she managed to travel the world and raise me and my brothers, giving us everything that she never had and
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even founded her own successful company, winning the award of Female Entrepreneur in 2013. We are incredibly close and she is my constant inspiration and reminder to never take anything for granted. Is the fashion world what you expected it to be? It is and it isn’t. I believe there’s this stigma around the fashion world being very serious, uptight and highly critical. Having said that, I haven’t encountered any of that in the many years that
A TELIER I’ve been modelling. My experiences have been nothing short of positive and I’ve managed to form friendships with so many people within the industry. The photoshoots I’ve been on, whilst being very professional, have always been fun and lighthearted. What do you think are the main challenges in the model industry today? In my honest opinion, the biggest challenge is finding middle ground between the desire for the level of professionalism that is seen abroad and maintaining relationships with people in the industry. From my personal experience, working on such a small island, no matter how much experience you have or how much exposure you’ve gained, it is practically impossible to pursue modelling as a full-time career. Primarily because it is a very small industry here in Malta which can’t compete with the rest, this results in modelling jobs being mostly unpaid or underpaid. This doesn’t just stop at the models themselves; it is an issue that other professionals in the industry face such as makeup artists, hair stylists, photographers, and fashion stylists. Even though there is a lack of funding throughout the industry, you end up building relationships with the people you work on photoshoots with and inevitably begin to look forward to working with them again. This creates an interesting struggle between wanting to get paid fairly but also not wanting to miss out on the opportunities.
The famous Indian author, Amit Kalantri once noted, “Modeling is not just beauty and smile, it takes boldness and style.” To what extent do you agree? I do agree with this statement, however I do believe that modelling extends beyond being simply being bold and stylish. It mostly requires versatility and the ability to adapt to the needs of the photographer. It’s important to always show up well prepared to a photoshoot and with an open mind. Even though someone’s vision might not align with yours, it’s important to always give your utmost without compromising your values and sense of identity.
What is the key to success for a model? Although it is important to be an efficient poser and be able to work with the camera properly, I believe it is imperative that models are always respectful to those that they work with, no matter how big or small the job may be. A respectful and wellmannered attitude will always resonate with those that you work with and will in the long run, be more likely to get called back for other projects. People with positive attitudes are always more memorable than those without, no matter how aesthetically pleasing they are. Credit: Bernard Polidano
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VALUES WE CAN ALL AGREE ON. Call E-mail Visit
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+356 2122 4405 info@laferla.com.mt www.laferla.com.mt
Laferla Insurance Agency Ltd. 204A, Vincenti Buildings, Old Bakery Street, Valletta VLT 1453 Malta, Europe
Laferla Insurance Agency Ltd. is enrolled under the Insurance Distribution Act, Cap 487 to act as an Insurance Agent for MAPFRE Middlesea plc (MMS). MMS is authorised by the Malta Financial Services Authority (MFSA) under the Insurance Business Act, Cap 403 of the Laws of Malta. Both entities are regulated by the MFSA.
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Fashion has become more inclusive when it comes to size representation, but where do you think boundaries still need to be broken? I strongly believe that race can be much better represented in the Maltese fashion industry. We’re slowly starting to see a rise in the number of models of colour here, as Malta becomes increasingly more multicultural. However, there’s still a long way to go as the amount of representation is far from even. I believe people can learn a lot from educating themselves on the current global situation and why it is important to include people of all cultures and races in the media. What's next for you? With regards to modelling, the dream is to work for an international campaign but I’m definitely happy with the way things are going at the moment and am so grateful for all the opportunities I’ve been given. Professionally, I graduated with a Bachelor of Science in Sociology in London a couple of years ago and have been working full time ever since. My ultimate goal is to pursue my master’s degree in the social sciences field in Seoul, South Korea, as I am completely fascinated by their culture, and eventually work for the United Nations. Credit: Ronald Falzon
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SOCIETY
People are going to behave however the social norms permit, and beyond that. Max Cannon
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Credit: Brian Grech
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In Her
Heels Interview with
RACHELLE Borg Dingli
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RACHELLE BORG DINGLI is a glamorous mother of one girl, Eve. W ith a demanding career and a happy marriage yet like other entrepreneurial mothers, she is not immune to the pressure of juggling a working life with having a family. Like many other career mums, she agrees that being a mother is hard. Building a career is stressful. Balancing working motherhood seems near impossible. Whether a woman opts to stay at home, have a flexible job, or jumps back into the workforce, her new title as 'mum' is no doubt the most important one. But, with only so many hours in a week, she has to decide how to best manage work life with family life. Busy juggling her two-year-old daughter and several work-related e-mails, Rachelle notes, "It's really hard to juggle a career and motherhood because I also believe that a woman should not lose her own identity just because she is now a mum.” She adds, "I think women have so many facets. We are best friends, we are wives, we are mothers, we are sisters, we are daughters and each role should never be neglected. You have to find the right balance, but I don't know if you ever find that!"
Make-up: Justin Brincat Photography: Brian Grech
Eve is still very young so she takes up most of Rachelle's time. She admits that most of her meetings and work are planned around her daughter which often coincides with lunch time and nap time. Although quite stressful, she still enjoys every moment. She points out that the secret lies in acknowledging that, "it is normal to feel overwhelmed and it's okay to be unsure if you're giving enough time to each role. Life is about doing. It’s about changing. It’s about transitioning. It's important to remember that regardless of how you do it, you know what is best." Rachelle inherited her drive, logic and perseverance from her mother, Simone who she adores. Indeed, her mum is her mentor, her guide and her source of inspiration. At a relatively young age, Simone boldly grew up her two children alone. Days were tough, but she had to work hard for her kids. She was determined to raise her children with courage and confidence. The struggle at that time was beyond imagination yet with determination and courage, she made sure to give her children a good start in life. With a glimmer in her eyes Rachelle notes, “Mum is my superhero. She made me believe that no challenge cannot be overcome in life. She regularly refers to a famous quote - There are no negatives in life, only challenges to overcome that will make you stronger.” Rachelle admits that there were other inspirational figures she came across in her life who left impact on her in one way or another. “Every woman can be Joan of Arc and every woman can be an inspiration to those around her. I was lucky to have come across many women who have influenced me in one way or another.”
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Gender equality is a topic very much at heart to Rachelle. Notwithstanding the delicate nature of the subject, she does not shy away from expressing her opinion. She is also radically honest and promptly notes that gender balance appears to be improving attitudes and raising discussions towards equal
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pay, gender equality, domestic violence and sexual harassment. However, Rachelle points out that the real question is, "will this bring concrete changes in society?� Femtech startup co-founder, Ida Tin, recently noted, “The best thing companies can do is listen to women.� Rachelle argues that the best thing
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must walk between being too aggressive and not aggressive enough. They note that men are often hired on the basis of their potential, while women are judged on past performance. Rachelle notes that women bring so much skill to the workplace, often different from that of a man, men and women should complement each other in the workplace, it is so important to have both voices heard equally.
Every woman can be Joan of Arc and every woman can be an inspiration to those around her. I was lucky to have come across many women who have influenced me in one way or another. a company can do is treat men and women equally. She refers to a book she recently came across; "What Works For Women at Work” in which Joan Williams and Rachel Dempsey identify four obstacles that nearly all women encounter at work, including the need to “prove-it again” and “the tightrope” women
Emma Watson once noted, “The reality is that, if we do nothing, it will take 75 years, or for me to be nearly 100, before women can expect to be paid the same as men for the same work.” Rachelle notes that her initial thought is, "it's 2020 and women still have to fight to get paid equally to men for doing the exact same job!? Imagine having to explain to my daughter that after studying just as hard as the boys in her class she is still not as good as them, imagine how demoralizing that would be?” She adds that we are living in a society where women are subconsciously demoralized by the gender gap factor. She feels that this continues to shape the perception that men are more capable than women. "Unless both men and women say that the gender pay gap is unacceptable, nothing will change.” So given all the challenges, how can we encourage more women to pursue entrepreneurship as a career? Rachelle believes that much boils down to education. "I believe education is the most essential tool. More women should be encouraged to study entrepreneurship. It is critical that women learn basic skills such as decision making, innovation and leadership. Such skills will help women face the challenges a hostile workforce we operate in.” She also feels it boils down to self-confidence. "Women need to believe more in themselves, no matter how many challenges they come across.”
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Given her husband's prominent role in local politics, it comes natural for me to ask her, "what does politics mean to you?” Rachelle promptly notes that as the years went by, she grew less fond of politics in general. Her detachment towards politics grew even more since Eve was born. "I always keep in mind that she is still so young and I wish our lives to remain as private as possible.” She seeks to ensure her personal life is away from the limelight by creating a clear distinction between what is private and what may be coined as public. Rachelle admits that this is no easy task and often the two worlds inevitably overlap one another. As once George Eliot noted, "There is no private life which has not been determined by a wider public life.” Despite all the hurdles, she feels that politics has its positives such as the opportunity to improve people's lives through bold decisions. Malta is currently one of the worst countries in the world when it comes to female representation in Parliament. I ask Rachelle what are her thoughts on the subject. She notes that this is not a problem limited to Malta but rather a global issue. “Recently, the New York Times editorial lamented on the declining numbers of women council members in the New York City Council and the underrepresentation of women in local and state governments nationwide. I believe that the underlying factors for such poor representation are manifold one of which is what may be defined as an ambition gap, with women underestimating their abilities and chances for success. It makes them less likely than men to even consider seeking public office, or to have political professionals encourage them to run.”
I thought why do women need a free pass, isn't that discrimination in itself? Aren't we perfectly capable of making it on our own?
It goes without saying to ask her whether gender quotas the right solution. Rachelle remarks that when she first heard of gender quotas she was totally against them. "I thought why do women need a free pass, isn't that discrimination in itself? Aren't we perfectly capable of making it on our own?" But as she heard more opinions, and followed various debates on the subject, she experienced a change of heart favouring gender quotas. “If that is the only way for women to occupy seats in parliament and on boards, then why not?” Rachelle noted that all countries with a higher female representation in parliament such as Mexico, Finland and Sweden, use gender quotas in politics. It is time to conclude our interview yet before calling it a day, I ask Rachelle for word of advise she would give her daughter. Without further ado, Rachelle admits that are a few recommendations she would give Eve. Certainly, she would recommend to her never to set limits what she can achieve, to have courage, to be grateful and always be kind.
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Glamorous VIENNA by Sarah Zerafa Lewis
Top
travel tips for the perfect getaway
T
he capital city of Austria has been mesmerising me for years and it will always will. The city’s beauty lies in every corner coupled with amazing architecture, history, palaces and what is know as the glamorous vibe. There is nothing better than spending a weekend or days roaming around endlessly during the low season autumn period with less crowds. You’ll be amazed by how much this city has to offer. These are some top things to do for your next visit.
Stay at
The Guesthouse Vienna Boutique Hotel
Let’s face it. Vienna lies on the pricey side. However, pampering yourself once in a while in life will do you good. This five star boutique hotel lies right in the centre of the capital city next to the Opera House and in front of the famous Albertina Museum. The decor has been tailored made for the hotel, the atmosphere is real and the food is impeccable. You will not stop snapping your Insta pictures here.
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Visit the
Schonbrunn Palace and the Gardens
One of the tops things to do in Vienna is to spend a half day or so discovering the grand and beautiful ex-summer residence of the Habsburg rulers and where the famous Sisi the princess lived. The Palace has over 1440 rooms and one of the most impressive architecture. The gardens, which are free to visit, are magical and the zoo that lies in its centre is one of the oldest in the world. There is no better way to spend some quality time with your loved ones.
Climb all the Steps of the
St. Stephen Cathedral
The St. Stephen Cathedral, at the centre of the city, is one of the most important religious buildings in Austria and one of the oldest. Apart from visiting the inside of the building, you should try to climb the 343 steps of the Cathedral to get the best view of the Viennese roof tops and indeed some good exercise.
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Glamorous VIENNA Have a coffee fix at the famous
CafĂŠ Central
Grab a piece of the
Sacher Torte
You cannot miss a taste of this delicious Viennese culinary speciality. Chocolate and apricot jam go perfectly divine together with the perfect cup of coffee. Try to book a table or go early at the original place where this dessert started - the Sacher Coffee place at the Hotel Sacher. Indeed, not the cheapest piece you’ll have but definitely worth the experience!
Indulge yourself in
Art and History For your first visit head directly to the two most famous museums in the city - the Kunsthistorisches Museum and the National History Museum - located in the lively Maria Theresien Platz. The Art Museum houses famous works of art by Raphael, Pieter Brueghel, Giuseppe Archimboldo and Velazquez, to name a few. If the weather permits, you may also experience some outdoor live music in the square.
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One of the most famous coffee shops in Europe is definitely the Café Central. This traditional café, which opened in the year 1876, was the key meeting place of the famous intellectuals such as Leon Trotsky and Sigmund Freud. The pastries are exquisite and, as for the setting, you will feel like you have travelled back in time. Head early in the morning or before closing to avoid the long queues.
Go to the
Opera on a Saturday Night You need to plan and book this from before. This magical opera house has more than 1700 seats and is a must to see. Its opera is considered as amongst the best in world. Prepare yourself with some fancy outfit and head for an unforgettable glamorous night with your family.
Experience the
Real Kiss at the Belvedere Palace
Get lost in the
Viennese Streets
Last but not least is to roam around the cobbled streets of the capital, shopping around in the iconic Kaerntner Strasse and grabbing random coffees at cafés such as the Kleines Café and the Café Landtmann. You will enjoy a relaxing afternoon strolling around after a busy morning where you will discover hidden streets and quaint shops in every corner.
Did you know that one of the most famous piece of art, apart from the Monalisa, is located in the heart of this city? The Kiss by Gustav Klimt is right at the Belvedere Palace for everyone to see. You will be amazed by the beauty and gold details of this art and the passion it portrays. Not just for the art lovers!
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MORE EFFICIENT JUDICIARY As the Minister responsible for Justice, I have a strong commitment in enhancing the efficiency within the Courts of Justice and the Judicial Bench
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In the past months we have implemented several measures in order to make this happen. We have introduced a bill which aims to reduce the backlog of cases before the Court of Appeal (Superior Jurisdiction) by providing for the possibility of the appellate court to grant a hearing only in those cases where it considers that this is necessary. The Bill also provides for a reduced timeframe for the payment of security for costs in respect of appeals. Where such security will not be provided in time the appeal will be declared abandoned.
Under my watch the Justice Ministry is also working non-stop on ways to further enhance the Court’s efficiency and capacity. This strategy consists of:
■ Digitising the filing of most of most of the criminal acts
■ Facilities of Video Conferencing ■
■
in the Civil Court Halls Project of circa €2.2 million in expanding the Courts with a new building in Strait Street (4 new halls and 25 administrative offices) Extension in the retirement age of the Judicial Bench (from 65 years to 68 years)
I firmly believe that these projects will continue to make our justice system more efficient than the one we have inherited, whilst providing better working conditions for all legal workers, all whilst keeping the people at the centre of our justice system.
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Proæett XX
20
YEARS.
I
Photo credit: Lindsey Bahia
Time as Fabric – Speaking to
PIERRE PORTELLI on the Centre for Creativity 20th Anniversary Exhibition
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t’s been 20 years. St James Cavalier first started out as a centre for creativity in the year 2000 as a millennium project, ushering in a new age for artists in Malta, and a new space for them to thrive. Turning 20 is a cause for celebration, but not only that, it also sparks the need for reflection – looking into the past, observing the present and looking into the future. In order to do this, there needed to be something beyond dialogue and contemplation. Rather, Spazju Kreattiv thought that this should be celebrated through a project, one that ties into these 3 points of reflection. That is Proġett XX.
A TELIER
Proġett XX may be ranked amongst the most monumental projects that Spazju Kreattiv has ever undertaken. Consisting of the work of artist Pierre Portelli, this project bases itself on the concept of the sundial, one of man’s most primitive yet ingenious tools to measure time, and recontextualizes it within the context of St James Cavalier. Proġett XX was commissioned by Spazju Kreattiv at the start of 2020, when Pierre was approached by the former artistic director Dr Toni Sant with an idea to celebrate the centre’s 20th anniversary. Now, after careful and meticulous preparations, the project has been revealed to the public; both within the physical space of St James Cavalier and with a virtual tour which would be accessible through www.kreattivita.org, this being a first for Spazju Kreattiv. Before delving into the concepts and thought process which form this Proġett XX, perhaps an introduction to Pierre Portelli as an artist is needed. Pierre is one of the main figures in contemporary art in Malta expanding his artistic portfolio since the 1980s. Speaking to him in his studio, Pierre speaks about how he naturally gravitated towards art as a teenager, stating that studying art in a more formal setting seemed to be the next step. His ties to Spazju Kreattiv and our premises are many. On a personal level, Pierre is tied to Spazju Kreattiv through place. St James Cavalier is located in the heart of Valletta, the city where Pierre grew up. Beyond that, when St James Cavalier was a Navy, Army and Air Force Institutes (NAAFI) post in the British era, Pierre remembers several encounters with the building alongside his father who was a serviceman in the Royal Air Force and had access to the NAAFI. From these two points, one can already gauge a rather solid connection between Pierre and St James Cavalier. Photo credit: Lynette Agius
Beyond the building itself, St James Cavalier is also a space which holds solid ties with Pierre artistically speaking. Pierre was part of Art in Malta Today, St James’s first collective exhibition, as a centre for creativity. He also explains how some of his major site-specific works, including ‘Greymatter’ and ‘and when I reach port…’ were housed within Spazju Kreattiv. Understandably, Pierre seemed to be the right choice to undertake a project to celebrate the 20th Anniversary since the Cavalier was transformed into a centre for creativity.
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Suspended Mannequin in Spazju Kreattiv,
Space A showing archival material. Photo credit: Elisa von Brockdorff
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A TELIER In celebration of the 20th anniversary of the reimagining of St James Cavalier as a centre for creativity, Spazju Kreattiv presents Proġett XX. The artist Pierre Portelli is explaining his creative insight to Minister for National Heritage, Arts and Local Government José Herrera. Photo credit: Elisa von Brockdorff
Getting to Proġett XX itself, the exhibition is made of 2 distinct sections or ‘chapters’: Ecologies of Power and Transitions. Spread between Space A and Spazju Kreattiv’s Atrium, Proġett XX is a project of monumental scale. Within the conceptualisation process of this project, Pierre considered time as a continuum and this is mimicked in the representation of the past, present, and future of Spazju Kreattiv which are presented within this exhibition. Within Space A, one finds three ‘automation-like’ mannequins, each of which display archival images sourced by our team from Spazju Kreattiv’s past through a screen planted within their stomachs. Beyond Space A, The Atrium is where the true celebration of the centre’s turning 20 is at its most evident.
With canvases containing the names of significant past and present projects, this portion of the exhibition celebrates the entity’s previous endeavours. As one looks up above the bridge 24 trumpets paralleling the 24 hours of a day are suspended from the atrium’s dome ceiling ushering in those projects and events yet to come. With the start of a new decade, a new Artistic Director and hence a new vision, Proġett XX stands out as a visual representation of significant past milestones and gives audiences the expectation of a promising future. Writer: Kristina Polidano - Social Media Coordinator at Spazju Kreattiv Proġett XX is being exhibited at Spazju Kreattiv from the 11th September to the 22nd November 2020. Visit: www.kreattivita.org
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SPEAK HER MIND NAOMI MUGLIETTE
INTERVIEW
WITH
I
t is often said not to judge a book by the cover. The first impact with Naomi Mugliette can be misleading. Behind the outer crust of calm good-looking woman with a pair of huge warm eyes and silky, jet-black hair, lies a strong, focused, determined straight talking, no-nonsense person. A woman, a mother and a notary public, she gets irritated by those who dare ask her how she manages all. Naomi believes in Steward Stafford's principle, “Multitasking is overrated - I'd rather do one thing well than many things badly. Quality supersedes quantity every time.” Moreover, she forms part of a generation of lawyers who are discovering, like 21st-century doctors and teachers, that it is possible to, “have emotions and do a job”, that you can be “both professional and a human being." Atelier recently caught up with Naomi who shared with us her interest in legal profession, her passion for food and wine and her views on the gender pay gap.
Credits: Brian Grech
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What attracted you to the legal profession? Were there any role models that you looked up to? My role models were my mother and my own siblings. I looked up to my father for his sweet nature towards others and my mother for being so humble and yet very intelligent. She knew how to talk and in detail, about anything. She was what you can describe a forever student. I am the youngest of five children and 11 years younger than the sister before me. My early childhood memories are of my siblings studying for their university finals, I can really picture vividly how hard they used to study. None of my siblings chose the legal profession. They all chose different careers and they are all very successful in their profession. So from an early age, my mother proudly advised me to follow their footsteps. I wanted to please her but I also wanted to be different. I felt the responsibility to continue my
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siblings’ legacy and make my parents prouder. Being the youngest, being the sister of a Parliamentary Secretary and later a Minister, I was always referred to as being ‘the sibling of...’ I wanted people to know me by my own name. I was always attracted to the legal profession, probably because I heard less about it in my circles and hence got intrigued to discover more. I was not good at sciences so I chose languages, with the purpose to choose Law at University. When I chose to take the legal profession my mother was very very proud yet reluctant because she thought I would be discriminated against since I had no help from other family members. No one in the family was a notary or a lawyer, it was an era where the norm was that you followed in the footsteps of another family member, and hence her doubts. I promised myself that I would make it and succeed.
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When I started the course, I realised that I was not the only one who did not have family members in the legal profession and that gave me courage. I felt that lecturers were on the lookout for fresh faces and new names. History has it that my mother passed away two days before my last final exam but I still believe that she is very proud of me wherever she is! What does it take to succeed in your profession? People are people, and not numbers, we are all individuals with our own situations and we demand to be treated with respect and patience. Everyone seems to be in a hurry nowadays, I live by the code of treating people exactly how I would like to be treated and that has helped me a lot. I do my best to give the people in front of me all the time needed, without any rush, I listen carefully to understand their needs. Most of my clients get referred to me by other clients, and that's an even bigger responsibility. In most of the cases, when someone entrusts you to be his notary, he/she is entrusting you with their biggest lifetime commitment. That requires a lot of work but mostly it requires a lot of responsibility. I look at it as a long term relationship which eventually finishes up in being one big family. I am very meticulous at what I do and this is unfortunately a long process. I don’t give up on lengthy intriguing situations, I push to make sure that no stone is left unturned before I give advice. I make it a point to answer my phone and to be reached as much as possible. On the weekend it’s difficult, especially with two young children. I am always struggling whether to answer an email or a message. One side of me would be telling me that it is the weekend and that clients should understand this but the other side would be telling me that the person sending me the email or the message would need reassurance or peace of mind or just need to talk.
How do you find a perfect compromise between such a demanding profession and a busy personal life? Nothing is ever flawless, but I always try to be a better version of myself. I love to learn how to be better and learn from my own mistakes We try to plan ahead and balance between the two. Having two young children and a demanding profession is not easy but we try to strike a balance. I make sure that neither my professional life and my personal life is lacking. Sometimes you feel like Wonder Woman, but sometimes you tend to struggle more, depending on the daily circumstances and encounters. My clients think I am a very calm person. Really and truly I am not, I just do my best to leave my personal self at home. Even having clients sitting in the waiting room, tends to make me panic. I don’t like to wait, so I don’t like to leave people waiting as everyone is busy with their own things to attend but sometimes it happens and I don’t like it. Hence time management is of essence, I like to plan ahead to make sure everything goes as planned and everyone is happy and satisfied. What does food and wine mean to you? They are two of my joie de vivre, (fortunately and unfortunately). These two together with other spirits, like a good Single Malt in Winter and Gin and Tonic in Summer. Another life’s enjoyment is travelling, which this year has been taken away from us! Although we did visit Sicily in Summer. We call ourselves ‘turisti del cibo’ or ‘culinary tourists’. We sometimes plan our holidays around a particular restaurant! After a long day at work, coming home to a glass of good wine to unwind is all we need. Facebook COO, Sheryl Sandberg recently noted in an interview, “As a woman gets more successful, she is liked by people of both genders, and as a man gets more successful, he does not take a likability hot”. To what extent do you agree? Everybody has the right to his opinion, but I do not agree with Ms Sandberg. I strongly disagree with her statement. It is very difficult to be liked by everyone, whether or not your career is successful or not. Likeability, reliability, trust is more attached to the person rather than the gender.
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A TELIER Do you feel the glass ceiling remains a reality in a host of white-collar industries? What I can say is that since we enjoy an island mentality, as a young woman starting off in a legal profession without experience, it leads to questioning about my capabilities and abilities. Since I started working, I have never encountered any glass ceiling situation. I have started my career, in the shadow of a very important notary, which I thank him for believing in me and treating me as his own daughter. I had questioning looks when clients were expecting him and then I turned out. I was young and in the beginning of my career. I could feel the judgmental looks but I just asked them to give me just a little chance until I start and break the ice. Then I looked forward to seeing if that questioning look would change into trust. I felt satisfied when I managed to outsmart their enquiries and diffident questions. I started gaining trust and felt satisfied when clients used to question whether I would be present for their deed. On the other hand I had to learn, gain experience, become very professional and practical at the same time very quickly. The notary I worked with was a Parliamentary Secretary and I had to publish all deeds of the office. In one particular year, much more than a thousand deeds. This situation made me work endless nights but has given me tremendous experience and knowledge, it was like doing 10 years of work in one year. The leading American lawyer, Valerie Jarrett once noted, “Every woman needs to know when she’s being discriminated against and what the reasons are why she isn't getting equal pay so we can close that pay gap, “what are your thoughts on the subject?” Sometimes, I wonder if such statements apply to the Maltese scenario. Though, I think sometimes women do not get employed because the employer tends to be reluctant to employ a woman to avoid the possibility of maternity leave and reduced hours and other parental/ maternal commitments. I really cannot conceive of the idea of a woman being paid less for the simple reason of ‘being a woman’. If a job is done, if a commitment is fulfilled, it is irrelevant the gender of the person
accomplishing it. Again this depends on the individual. I believe women are extraordinary species, in the sense that they can be intelligent in the same way the opposite sex is BUT are far more practical, understanding and looks far far ahead. What advice would you give to students trying to enter the legal profession today? Our profession has been overtaken by an array of rules and regulations. We get to wear too many hats. I would strongly suggest to anyone who aspires to enter the profession to meet with a few notaries first, they will help you make a calculated decision. All I can say here and now is that it’s a long journey of exciting encounters/stories and lots of satisfaction but there is also a lot of work and few yearly sleepless nights will become a part of your life. In a nutshell, it's not a joyride, you would really have to love what you do, and money cannot be your primary motivation as it will not be. The profession has unfortunately changed and our role as a notary has been given a wider responsibility. Hence, I would sincerely recommend to every student that before they enter into the Notarial world, he/she has a clear understanding of what being a notary entails. What’s next on your busy agenda? People ask me...."How are you? Are you busy? Sometimes I wonder if I ever can get to tell them... No I am not..." Thank God I am always busy. BUT the fact that I have ALWAYS something to look forward to, being a romantic date with my partner, family dinner or with friends, a short trip to Sicily or a longer one, maybe across the Atlantic, keeps me going on. I need to have something to look forward to. For example, in the short distance, I look forward to Christmas, Christmas decorations, listening and singing Christmas carols and songs with my children, family gatherings, entertaining guests, the smell of mulled wine ... I look forward to COVID to run away so we could actually plan. Having a passion for culinary experiences, I look forward to visiting Saint Sebastian in Spain to see if it really lives up to its reputation. I also hope that I can also fulfill my childhood dream which has been postponed because of COVID and visit South America.
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Thanks to the booming economy of the past seven years, shrewd planning from the Government and the input from the Malta Tourism Authority and other stakeholders, we quickly set about saving a tourism industry which accounts for around 30% of our economy.
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JULIA FARRUGIA PORTELLI – Minister for Tourism and Consumer Protection The vouchers scheme for local residents was introduced to encourage people to go out and support all those businesses who were hit the hardest by the pandemic. This was well received as bars, restaurants, pubs and many other businesses felt the positive effect. In Gozo, hospitality and collective accommodation establishments welcomed many Maltese people, who chose to holiday in the sister island and support the local economy. In addition, the Government just launched a scheme for businesses to apply for a reduction in utility rates over the summer months. The wage supplement for businesses has also been maintained.
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t has definitely been a summer unlike any other. As I write this piece, I’m reflecting on the past few months that have definitely been challenging and unprecedented in every way. All our initiatives planned for this year went out of the window the moment the Coronavirus pandemic hit our shores. Instead of maintaining the encouraging numbers of years gone by, my colleagues in Cabinet and I had to quickly come up with schemes that not only saved hundreds of businesses and thousands of jobs in the tourism sector, but also enabled them to make the most of this new normality. Thanks to the booming economy of the past seven years, shrewd planning from the Government and the input from the Malta Tourism Authority and other stakeholders, we quickly set about saving a tourism industry which accounts for around 30% of our economy.
While these measures will not completely make up for this unprecedented situation, it does help businesses to live to fight another day. Other initiatives were also underway, such as supporting all those who run and manage tourist attractions, together with general improvements of our tourism product. This is to ensure that once the pandemic is over, thousands of tourists can truly enjoy the best that our country has to offer. As we move on to the autumn, the Government shall present a budget that aims to not only continue helping these businesses, but also stimulate new opportunities for growth in the current circumstances. These are hard times, but myself and the rest of the Government are hard at work to ensure the survival and success of every person whose livelihood depends on the travel, tourism and hospitality sectors. We are working tirelessly to escape the worst economic effects of the pandemic which have hit other countries, but this depends on how much all stakeholders work together. Unity is the basis of all success.
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Security Concerns Remain A Major Barrier to Internet of Things Adoption Article by Claude Calleja – Executive at eSkills Malta Foundation
I
nternet of Things World has released its annual IoT security concerns survey. It found that an overwhelming majority (85%) believe that security concerns remain a major obstacle to the roll-out of Internet of Things (IoT). In fact, the eSkills Malta Foundation believes with 64% of respondents thinking that IoT security is an "endto-end" approach that is the biggest obstacle to the deployment of IoT, surpassing only machine learning and artificial intelligence (AI).
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With IoT potentially flooding wireless networks with billions of new connected devices, security must be a top priority for engineers and designers to keep up with the demands and to ensure that information travelling between devices with IoT connections remains secure. End users reported using more security software on average than the typical consumer, underscoring the complexity they face in protecting their existing communications networks. If industrial companies are to push ahead with the introduction of IoT, they will be exposed to new security risks and need to protect themselves. The good news is that trusted vendors already exist that can mitigate the risk of security issues with proven technologies such as token-based
A TELIER In addition, large IT companies are continuously developing innovative solutions to ensure the security of IoT devices. Companies are rapidly expanding their risk, expanding to connect literally everything, and risking jeopardizing their customers privacy, security and even livelihoods. In 2016, DNS providers and major websites were crippled by distributed denial of service attacks carried out by IoT devices running Mirai malware. In May 2017, Junade Ali, a computer scientist at Cloudflare, found that native DDoS vulnerabilities exist in over 70% of the world's IoT devices. The overall IoT security market grew by 27.9% in 2016 due to growing infrastructure concerns, diversified usage and the adoption of smart home devices. By the end of 2027, revenues are expected to reach nearly â‚Ź15 billion, with revenues from smart grids. Network security remains the preferred solution for IoT security products, with network security solutions for smart grids, smart homes and smart city devices accounting for more than 50% of the total IoT market in 2016. In addition, the global market for security and network management solutions in smart homes is predicted to expand at a faster rate at least up to 2027. Most technical security issues are similar to those used in traditional servers, workstations and smartphones. In general, there are no significant differences in security levels between them and IoT devices. Given that many surveys keep indicating that security keeps being the biggest concern, we can expect the supplier ecosystem to solve this problem once and authentication and smart contracts that are suitable for IoT applications. Companies are still developing, learning from the risks and developing security management and insurance methods to protect their assets, industrial and otherwise, from security threats. The Internet of Things only increases the potential for devastation, but the Internet has always been chaotic and will be so in the future as well. Companies developing industrial IoT applications face significant challenges, as many industrial devices have traditionally been designed in isolation. In 2016, the biggest hurdles to the introduction of IoT remained the same but were greatly outweighed by security.
for all. With the advent and massive deployment of IoT equipment, coupled with the occasional breach of private data, companies are more cautious than ever, and rightly so. eSkills Malta Foundation firmly believes that IoT is extremely beneficial for commerce, education and society, and all are itching to invest more. It is time that vendors take a wider approach and carry out more research so that IoT devices are manufactured secure by default. In the meantime, it is highly recommended that vendors of IoT devices offer a security implementation service to prospective customers.
This article was prepared by collating various publicly available online sources.
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A UNIFIED VOICE for the Yachting Sector We are here to support initiatives within the industry and to make the most of Malta’s attractiveness as a yachting destination for sports and leisure yachting an super yachts. and
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www.yachtingmalta.org
YACHTING MALTA
A DRIVING FORCE FOR THE
YACHTING COMMUNITY The COVID-19 Pandemic nearly ground to a halt Yachting Malta’s activity for the large part of 2020, however it was still able to continue its objective of being a driving force for the yachting and maritime community. Yachting Malta Sustainability Ambassadors - Maya Podesta, Neil Agius, Yachting Malta Chairman John Huber, Mario Aquilina
The first initiative was to assist the local industry through a media campaign promoting internal tourism and more specifically, as a central theme to the campaign, yacht charters in Malta. Discover Malta Like Never Before was a first of its kind.
was to be repeated a week later when the Podesta family won their second consecutive Rolex Middle Sea Race. Trophies were later presented to Elusive 2 by the Hon. Dr. Ian Borg, Minister for Transport, Infrastructure and Capital Projects.
Yachting Malta also launched its three-year sustainability plan in which it roped in three of Malta’s most respected individuals – Neil Agius, Mario Aquilina and Maya Podesta, well known in yachting and environmental circles to promote its sustainability message.
“In spite of the challenges being faced due to the COVID-19 pandemic, Yachting Malta continues to work tirelessly to assist the yachting community. Its initiatives and campaigns are a combination of efforts in its drive to promote the yachting industry – both from an economic and sporting perspective yet always keeping in mind the importance of making the industry sustainable in the long term whilst respecting the marine environment” John Huber, Chairman, Yachting Malta
Yachting Malta also supported the new surge of interest in Windsurfing when it sponsored a hugely successful Windsurfing Weekend hosted by Malta Young Sailors’ Club. More recently, Yachting Malta gave its name to the annual Coastal Race, the precursor to the 41st edition of the Rolex Middle Sea Race. The Yachting Malta Coastal Race was blessed with superb sailing conditions. The course of approximately 30 nautical miles, saw its start from outside the Royal Malta Yacht Club. The fleet then rounded the island of Comino before returning to Marsamxett Harbour. The race was won by the Maltese boat Elusive 2 – a feat that
Yachting Malta is now looking forward to 2021 with a degree of optimisim. Yachting Malta will be backing the Yachting Malta Euro Masters Series, scheduled to take place between the 5th and 7th February 2021 and hosted by the Royal Malta Yacht Club. 2021 will also hopefully see the inaugural editions of the Yachting Malta Race Week and the Malta Boat Show. Events are planned to take place in May and November respectively. www.yachtingmalta.org
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Tech Matters INTERVIEW
WITH
Dana
FARRUGIA
T
echnology is a constantly evolving field. With social advancements, the tech industry must confront new realities within the current social context. As our society moves closer to gender equality, women are working to build a stronger presence in the traditionally male-dominated tech industry. Today, women spearhead some of the most important tech companies in the world. YouTube’s Susan Wojcicki, Microsoft’s Amy Hood, IBM's Ginni Rometty and Oracle’s Safra Catz are a few names who are leading the tech world. On the local front, Dana Farrugia, CEO of Tech.mt is at the driving seat to stimulate Malta's momentum in the tech sector. Indeed, Dana has been entrusted with the ambitious task to promote Malta's National Strategy on Technology and Innovation that includes areas such as; Artificial Intelligence (AI), blockchain, cloud software development, robotics and quantum. Smart, good looking, ambitious, stubborn, extremely focused and never taking a ‘no’ for an answer attitude, she has all the attributes to reach her goal in the sector. She also possesses the right skills to ensure a better female representation in the local Tech sector.
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Photos credit: Alan Saliba
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Whilst sipping her favourite Earl Grey tea, Dana provides us with a glimpse of what it takes to occupy a managerial position in the grueling and dynamic world of technology and innovation. Her experience in the industry is quite vast. Indeed, Dana has been working in this sector and the world of economics and technology, for the last 20 years. Her experience perfectly marries with her strong character, an attribute she has developed thanks two inspirational figures - her parents and her sister - two women that have constantly supported her all along the years of studies and through her career path. Dana admits that there are other inspirational figures beyond her family circle she looks up to such as Bill Gates' wife, Melinda and Michelle Obama. "They are two inspirational figures I certainly look up to. I admire their ability to balance work and life. They teach us an important lesson to step back, rather than out, of our careers." She adds, “It takes two to tango. This can only be achieved thanks to the unconditional support of their partners. This is the way things should be. Reciprocity is key.� Dana admits that her major achievement in life was her son. She had her son, Garret at a relatively young age and notwithstanding all the challenges, provided her son with a good upbringing. Dana notes, "The best lesson I could teach my son is to show him how to be a strong and resourceful individual. Today, when I look at Garret, I feel I have achieved my goal." She also feels successfully following a Master of Business Administration at the Henley Business School as another major achievement.
DAWN OF A NEW ERA We shift our conversation to the tech sector at large and society's perception on the industry. Dana notes, "Once developed, the tech sector can offer cost-effective solutions. This can be achieved through robotics as well as intelligent and fast solutions and by means of AI technology, which subsequently help with risk management and compliance. It is for that specific purpose that the government has set up Tech.mt." Indeed, Tech.mt is instrumental to take the technology industry on our islands to the next level.
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The entitiy was established by the government along with the Malta Chamber of Commerce and its main objectives are: promote, innovate and provide talent and support to all those in the sector. Apart from being responsible for this sectorial growth locally, Tech.mt, promotes Malta as a suitable set-up for foreign direct investment whilst promoting the local technological industries abroad as well. Dana notes, “We have a lot of local talent and structural development. We are a small island competing with larger countries with very strong economies and yet, we perform better. Innovation requires a lot of research and study which comes at a hefty price. The results are not immediate and there is an element of risk yet there is a strong response from the local private sector." Dana adds, "The European Innovation Score Board placed our country 4th as regards to environment. In addition to that, we scored high in the registration of trade marks. Although our competitors are powerful, Malta wants to make sure that this sector is safe guarded and has maximum growth. Malta excels in: high speed internet, highly skilled bi-lingual workers, competitive cost per employee, high ranking of choice for foreign investments, the eco-system and a high-performance economy."
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THE EDUCATION FACTOR The inception of Tech.mt was an important boost in the technology and innovation sector. This was also a strategic move to identify areas that need to improve. One of these areas is certainly education. Dana points out that, as a country, the demand is higher than the supply. "Unfortunately, our human resources are limited. Moreover students still do not
consider the Tech sector as their natural career path." She believes that our country will benefit much more if technology is incorporated in the Primary Schools’ curriculum together with other core subjects. This is not an easy step as, locally, we still have children who don’t have access to such technology at home. One also has to keep in mind that these subject needs effort and it might be the case that it is the reason why we don’t have so many youngsters opting to graduate in technology and innovation.”
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A TELIER THE COVID-19 PANDEMIC WAS AN ALARM BELL FOR US ALL TO REALIZE THAT THE FUTURE IS NOW! Technology and innovation connect, educate and entertain all of its users. Given the current situation caused by the COVID-19 pandemic, technology is playing a crucial role to ensure a safe continuation to our “new normality”. She notes, " The COVID-19 pandemic offered challenges yet also opportunities. We benefitted from online learning, we ensured job retention through remote working, and we also ensured the survival of businesses." Dana notes that the pandemic was definitely a driver for change when it comes to technology because it “instigated” the public to resort to technology. “More than anything, it was an enabler. On the other hand, it exposed certain local society weaknesses that need to be addressed." She also refers to old generation segment which may not be too savvy with smartphones or internet. This is where Tech.mt enters the picture. Tech.mt provides various online courses such as familiarisation with mobile phones and the upgrading of skills for better job opportunities. Through European funds this entity is helping to raise awareness amongst children, empowering people, especially women to further their education and help the elderly to understand better our technological era.
TECH POSES NO GENDER BARRIERS Diversity is critical in tech, as it enables companies to create better and safer products that take everyone into consideration, not just one section of society. A report from McKinsey found that diverse companies perform better, hire better talent, have more engaged employees and retain workers better than companies that do not focus on diversity and inclusion. Despite this, women remain widely underrepresented in IT roles. Dana believes that this is quite ironic when one
takes into account the fact there are more female graduates than males. “This, in itself, shows that women have a big drive to succeed in their academic goals but for some reason they are not choosing technology. This is another reason why Tech. mt wishes to raise awareness and educate about this industry from early childhood years. Girls in particular, if they have any cultural barriers, will overcome them thanks to the information given,” says Dana. She feels that gender should not be a barrier. “If one is really determined to succeed, then he or she succeeds. In technology the option is not giving up but to move to another field of the same sector. Women, as human nature entails, as mothers need to give more than men when it comes to family but if they are supported by their husbands, they can focus on other things including on their careers.”
WHAT’S NEXT? It's time to conclude yet without further ado, we ask Dana what's next for Tech.mt? She notes, "We had to alter our strategy due to the Covid-19 pandemic, however this has not deterred our mission. In the coming months our goal is to continue propagating the concept of remote business-to-business networking. We will also focus on the “eBusiness Awards” so as to continue promoting talent in the sector." She also notes that Tech.mt scouts success stories of innovation No reference to particular apps/ solutions – put this in a generic context. She concludes that Tech.mt is still not a household name yet thanks to their strong PR strategy brand awareness will be achieved over a short span of time. She adds that, "In one year we did miracles. We worked on the branding, we focused on human resources, we invested in team building, and also focused on international outreach. Hand on heart, I am happy with what we achieved so far. the best is yet to come for Tech.mt”
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MEASURING THE FINE LINE:
DISCUSSING PREVENTION AND CURE IN THE SOCIAL REALM Dr. Katya DeGiovanni - PSYCHOLOGIST
S
ocial justice is the ideal condition in which
entails affect a large proportion of humankind, and major
all the members of our society have the
efforts by Governments and international organizations to
same basic rights, security, opportunities,
reduce or eradicate poverty have thus far failed to produce
obligations and social benefits. This refers to
the desired results. This lack of a proper social justice
the concept of a just society where justice is more than
continues to negatively impact on people in the lowest strata
just the administration of laws but is based on the idea
of society like Phillip.
of a society which truly gives individuals and groups
Phillip was the eldest of eight siblings who performed
fair treatment and just share of what is available. A just
well at school and a promising future ahead of him.
society also means moving towards an ideology of life
Unfortunately, his father passed away when he was in
where all the hungry are fed, all the sick are cared for,
fifth form preparing to sit for his Secondary Education
the environment is treasured and that we all treat each
Certificate. His father's death brought all his dreams to a
other with love and compassion. In a nutshell, a society in
sudden end and was called to work as a machine operator
which Terry Eagleton in his book "Why Marx was Right";
to help out his mother financially. Times were hard but
“Genuine equality means not treating everyone the same,
thanks to his hard work, determination and perseverance,
but attending equally to everyone’s different needs.”
he ensured a decent life to his mother and his seven other siblings. Although there was a time when Phillip did quite
The popular contention that the rich get richer and the poor get poorer appears to be largely based on fact,
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well compared to his friends, he now struggles to keep up with society's demands.
particularly within the present global context. Moreover,
Through measures of social security, one helps those
extreme or absolute poverty, experienced by those whose
who experience stoppage or substantial decrease in earning
income is barely sufficient for survival, remains widespread.
resulting from sickness, maternity, employment, injury,
Indigence levels have risen in the most affluent countries, in
unemployment, disability, old age and death as well as the
countries once part of the Soviet bloc and in various parts
provision of medical care and the provision of subsidies for
of Africa, but have remained stable in Latin America and
families with chidlren (ILO, 1999). Social Security provides
have declined in Asia. Extreme poverty and the suffering it
a foundation of income on which workers can build to
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plan for their retirement. It also provides valuable social
pandemic. We have thus witnessed a series of minibudgets
insurance protection to workers who become disabled and
primarily aimed at keeping our population in employment.
to families whose breadwinner dies. As well coined by the
Employment enhances individuals’ integration in society
American news host and political commentator, Rachel
as well as their mental wellbeing. The current budget
Maddow, “Social security isn’t a ponzi scheme. It’s not
announced for 2021 by the Maltese Government was
bankrupting us. It’s not an outrage. It is working.”
targeted at those who are mostly in need and who were likely
On the other hand, though, Social Protection prevents
to have been most effected in the pandemic. There was a
the state from resorting to social security measures by
push for homeownership for first time buyers up to 200,000
managing and overcoming situations that adverself affect
Euro as well as compensation for cost of living increase.
people’s wellbeing. As well noted by Sharan Barrow, "If there
Those who are over 70 years of age are now all entitled to
are not jobs or adequate forms of social protection, there
travel for free and all pensioners will have a five Euro weekly
is not enough income to create the consumption base that
increase in their pension. Hundred Euro Vouchers will also
drives demand and sustainable economic growth."
be reissued thus giving a further subsidy to all those who
In Phillip's case, this would have been ideal at the time
are sixteen-years of age and over. This money will in turn be
as it would have ensured he would drop out of school
invested in the local economy and aim to further preserve
whilst providing more assistance to his family. Apart
jobs.
from the benefits attained through social security, social
Over the recent years, we have also seen a shift from
protection consists of policies and programmes designed
a focus on social benefits to one which emphasises social
to refuge poverty and vulnerability by promoting efficient
protection. In other words, it is more feasible in the long run
labour markets, diminishing people’s exposure to risks and
to teach a person the skills to fish rather than to supply him
enhancing their capacity to manage economic and social
with a ready-made meal. Social protection ensures access to
risks such as employment, exclusion, sickness, disability
essential goods and services. In the years to come, one would
and old age. Such was the immediate action of the current
expect the less provision of social benefits and more policies
government on the lines of social protection which was
pushing social protection. As the saying goes, “prevention is
heavily needed owing to the situation brought about by the
better than cure”.
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Areon fragrances from Balev
B
alev was founded in 1990 in Varna, Bulgaria by Dimitar Balev as a trading company. In 1997, the Areon trademark was registered and its own air fresheners appeared on the market. Areon is rapidly gaining popularity and in ten years has grown from a local supplier to a world famous brand. Balev Ltd Malta, it’s a subsidiary company of Balev Corporation. We started operating in Malta back in 2009. Today we strive and work to meet the expectations of our customers in terms of value and quality. At the same time, we strive to find new solutions and technologies in functional perfumery. The Areon Online Store project was launched on January 1, 2020. The task of the online store is to provide the latest and most complete information about the Areon brand, as well as about new innovations, changes, etc. as for the fragrances themselves, both for the home series and for cars. Orders can be made online from www.areon.mt or on our fb page areon Malta We are definitely confident and know that Areon flavours have won the trust of our customers and friends, because only we have natural, high-quality, innovative products that help make our life better, brighter and more pleasant.
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Member of the European Parliament
Equality in Connectivity
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Limited access to learning and poverty are intertwined. The least educated struggle the most to comfortably penetrate the job market and are often the most susceptible to abuse. COVID-19 has in practice displayed the other side of the coin: poverty, poor housing conditions and scarcity of resources including digital, which predated the pandemic, led many students to miss out on quality education and for this they have suffered for months on end. The enormous value in e-learning is at the core of a resolution passed in the European Parliament last month. We acknowledge the significant role digital means may play as a reliable alternative for anyone unable to indulge in the normal classroom experience. Getting there however, calls for awareness to certain realities. Not all households are equally equipped for the children to
be able to enjoy unfettered access to their lessons. Clearly, the pandemic has exacerbated inequalities that existed before. I support digitalisation, also in education, as both in times of a health emergency and in more normal times, it may prove empowering to many, not just youths.
“In these past months, our digital access and capacity have rapidly evolved from added value to essential and indispensable elements” Digital policy must first start by ensuring the foundations are in place: the households’ digital capacity and
their skills. In this light, the Maltese Government’s budgetary measure providing internet access for free to youths who go on to study after secondary school, has an undeniable social value. In these past months, our digital access and capacity have rapidly evolved from added value to essential and indispensable elements necessary to access some of our basic needs and key services. Developing public policy both at a national and a European level, to maximise our use of the digital means available, has an admirable accessibility factor. Making sure everyone has equal access will guarantee it is also just as empowering.
socialistsanddemocrats.eu
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PHOTOGRAPHY
Photography is a love affair with life. Burk Uzzle
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Credit: Sean Mallia Fashion Shoot - Vernacular
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AN ELECTIVE AFFINITY
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A
rtists aren’t exactly known for their accommodating, easy-going ways. More often, it’s words such as “egocentric” and “introverted” that spring to mind as they are often known as "lone wolves". In reality, though, few artists work in total isolation, especially once they have achieved a certain level of success. The likes of Christo and Jeanne-Claude, Marina Abramovic and Ulay and Bernd and Hilla Becher are a few examples of how collaboration was an integral, motivating agent in the development of their practices, which span monumental sculpture, endurance-testing performance, and innovative digital art.
A TELIER The collaboration between CAROLINE O'CALLAGHAN and NADETTE CLARE-TALBOT was born out of an affinity and complementarity based on Payton's principle - “We are stronger together than we are alone.” Incredibly good looking, sophisticated and extremely talented, Caroline and Nadette embarked on a collaboration to produce works of art. They are different and yet so similar. What is so interesting in their collaboration is the power balance. They are clear about whose idea was whose, even though no one will ever know once the work is complete. Indeed, every project they collaborate on is a masterpiece which conveys the skills of great flowertist and the incredible ability of a photographer. Both sat with Atelier to discuss the genesis of their collaboration and their projects.
What brought you together creatively? C: We knew we were both artists just working in different mediums. I was painting still life at the time and approached Nadette to work on a series of composed photographic pieces that I would ultimately paint from. Interestingly though, this second stage of painting never happened. In fact, we became so involved in the process of composing and creating the photography that we started to see that the work was something special in its own right.
How do photography and art fit together? How is the medium of photography accepted within fine art? N: Photography has multiple personalities and comes in many different forms including commercial photography, such as fashion and interiors, but also, of course, Fine Art Photography. Perhaps historically it is this
N: We instantly had a shared aesthetic, both inspired by the same artists and photographers and a clear visual understanding of what we wanted to create. Caroline said the vibe she had in mind was dark and moody - which sings to my aesthetic. At this point I don’t think we had even seen each other’s work but were sympatico in our vision.
WE ARE STRONGER TOGETHER THAN WE ARE ALONE.
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application that has seen a certain amount of prejudice because the art and skill of taking a photograph isn’t fully appreciated. This has been compounded by the phone pic and social media, which means it is now an accessible art form to everyone with a gallery on hand to exhibit at the touch of a button.
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C: The challenge for us is to elevate this understanding. By using traditional methods of photography and an aesthetic made in the studio, rather than on screen, we hope to achieve this.
A TELIER What is the underlying common denominator? C: Nadette and I definitely have a clear shared visual aesthetic which I think you can see from our work individually before and within the collaboration. An example of this is our title piece, Elective Affinity, a term that has its origins in chemistry but has been adopted into the art world. The idea was to bring two things together which the viewer does not expect, in this case the curiosity box lined in flowers. In a sense, Nadette and I in our collaboration as a photographer and botanical artist creating fine art represent an “elective affinity”. N: Absolutely, again I think it comes back to having a traditional approach to the work. Caroline with the compositions, which are grounded in many of the rules of balance used within still life painting, and me with photographic methods, which are all real time studio effects. We actually use little postproduction. Elective Affinity is the perfect example actually of our traditional process. We worked from the outset to compose the work within the frame and Caroline created this delicate miniature installation. Over a two day shoot we used a whole tool box of photographic effects to create an image that came full circle in our expectations. It perfectly describes us as artists in collaboration.
How do two so strong personalities coexist? N: Caroline and I definitely share a common purpose and that’s to make beautiful images which challenge and inspire the viewer. We are both completely in tune with each other in terms of the end piece and almost always arrive at the same end point and image. C: This is completely true. In fact, the few times we have diverged we have actually found it to be a pretty rewarding experience because it has drawn one of us or the other outside of our comfort zone and developed us as an artist that little bit more.
What does colour mean to you within your work? N: Colour is both our starting point and our end point in terms of the images we produce. It is so fundamental to the work. C: An example of this would be Vanitas. We knew we wanted to use a cloche jar to represent a visual contradiction, preservation and at the same time expiration. The floral adornments are representative of the Mexican calaca figure, and therefore death. The jar acts as both a skull and a mechanism to preserve memories, which in this case is simply a nebulous digital image. We were so clear in the meaning of this piece that we knew the colours would need to be bold and symbolic to reflect the concept. The marigolds are symbolic of the celebration of life and death, while their rich gold and orange tones lent themselves to be juxtaposed against the petrol blue, creating a strong colour dynamic.
Tell us a bit about your recent assignments? N: Caroline and I completed a piece in March titled Samurai, which was another strong colour play with intense, saturated tones. It focuses on a flower composition inspired by the human form, playing with the illusion of scale, which is something we are both really intrigued by.
Any projects in the pipeline? C: Yes, we are currently in the middle of a classic still life composition focusing on more of a geometrical structure. It’s an exciting piece in many respects. It’s a departure from florals and is also being shot in a different studio, all of which has an effect on the end product. N: For us it is ongoing. We have some new camera techniques we are hoping to play with while we further explore contemporary still life juxtapositions.
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WHERE
FLOWERS BLOOM
CAROLINE O'CALLAGHAN
INTERVIEW
WITH
C
aroline O'Callaghan has a rare ability to uncover and share the magic, beauty and mystery found in the natural world around us. Through her work as a botanical artist, she finds the aesthetic balance amidst nature's contradictions and often highlights the subtle, hidden or unnoticed details. Indeed, Caroline’s masterful creations bring together flowers and botanicals in sculptural forms and colours that capture nature at its magical best. We recently caught up with Caroline who shared with us what attracted her to botanical art, what it entails to be a flowertist and how Malta inspires her.
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What attracted you to the world of botanical art? Although my artistic background was traditional in that I studied fine art at Goldsmiths College at the University of London, I have always loved flowers and even trained as professional florist straight after graduating from Goldsmiths. In that sense, it was quite natural to eventually combine the two. Flowers and botanicals provide an extremely versatile and sculptural palette with which to express myself.
What is a flowertist? The word “Flowertist” is a portmanteau of “flower” and “artist”. It is also a fun play on the “isms” or movements within art.
I was recently struck by a quote from the botanical illustrator, Minelli Lucy France, "Sometimes I defy flower anatomy and sometimes I try to replicate it intricately." Does this apply to your work as a Flowertist? I can definitely relate to that. There is always a natural tension between remaining faithful to the subject, particularly when it is something as naturally beautiful as a flower, and delivering to the eye what it yearns to see. Intuitively finding the right balance is a critical and wonderful part of the creative process.
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How does Malta inspire you? When a country as small as Malta absorbs such an array of influences through its incredibly rich history, it evolves into a very vibrant and creatively stimulating culture. I love to draw inspiration from that history and culture, which always feels close at hand in my studio in a house of character.
Your source of inspiration is a conglomeration of several concepts. Can you tell us more? Lots of influences are expressed in subtle ways but the two most readily identifiable are the Japanese floral art form, Ikebana, and the 17th century Dutch Old Masters. The Ikebana influence, particularly from the Nageirebana style, manifests itself in the elegant balance of chaos and calm. The lush colours and the original concept of using art to preserve a beautiful but naturally short-lived subject are inspired by the Old Masters.
How are such works of art developed? In its bare essence, the creative process involves a sculptural component and a colour component. The structural process is about juxtaposing threedimensional forms in a way that to me is artistically optimal while also having the structural stability to remain fixed in place. The colour is also a critical part of the process and typically begins when I settle in my mind upon a small colour palette and then apply that to the selection of the three-dimensional forms.
Is there enough awareness on such art? The beauty of flowers has been appreciated for centuries but this more contemporary treatment using silk flowers brings new ways of enhancing and sharing that beauty. The astonishing quality of silk flowers available today plays a vital role in this. They enable me to create pieces that can be everlasting but importantly, they also obviate the need to harvest and destroy enormous quantities of fresh flowers for the sake of a few days of aesthetic pleasure. Perhaps this is an area where we could all benefit from more awareness – the unnecessary waste of natural resources driven by an overreliance on the fresh flower market.
The famous American author Junot Diaz once noted, "The whole culture is telling you to hurry, while the art tells you to take your time. Always listen to the art." To what extent do you agree? I completely agree. When producing art, there is almost no choice. Losing one’s sense of time in the creative process is not only natural but also necessary to be truly artistic. From the perspective of the viewer, art at its best can provoke a thought, an emotion, a visceral reaction of some kind. And when it does, for a fleeting instant we might just press the “pause button” on the world around us and be joyfully lost in the wonderment of the art. But if we’re unwilling to listen to the art, as Diaz puts it, then we might never enjoy such moments.
How have you survived the current coronavirus period? Amidst the tragic public health and economic consequences of the Coronavirus, which I would never wish upon us, the slowdown in daily life has actually provided a more fertile environment for creativity, which I suppose has been a silver lining of sorts. To return to Diaz’s observation, it is as though culture has taken a break from telling us to hurry, which has made it far easier to listen to the art.
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There is always a natural tension between remaining faithful to the subject, particularly when it is something as naturally beautiful as a flower, and delivering to the eye what it yearns to see.
What's next on your agenda? I hope to continue drawing inspiration from life around me and all of the visual arts in order to feed the creativity, while also seeking to evolve technically. I am also deeply involved in a fine art collaboration with the fabulous photographer, Nadette Clare-Talbot, and we have a lot of exciting ideas for future works. In short, I will follow the art and see where it takes.
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SHUTTER
UP
Nadette ClareINTERVIEW WITH TALBOT
T
here are a number of amazing photographers that are pushing the limits in today's crowded field, too many to name. Nadette Clare-Talbot is definitely one of the more interesting artists using photography today. Her approach is as much about the process as it is the final product. The moment you come across her shots, you are instantly captivated by the cleanliness, the detail and the depth it conveys. Indeed, the depth of Nadette's work and the idea behind each, thoughtful shot is truly impressive. It is no surprise she is considered such an emerging talent. We recently caught up with Nadette who shared with us her interest in photography, what captures her photographic lens and her plans for the future.
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A TELIER You define your work as contemporary photography. Can you elaborate? My work is a reflection of my aesthetic taste. Contemporary photography by definition references values and perceptions of the current time, and my style has developed over the years to be an extension of my “visual palette” of life. I certainly do love to shoot the things I find beautiful, but perhaps with my own little spin on things. My work is a continuation of me, so the older I get, the more I feel there should be a connection with my soul.
What captures your photographic lens? I have a commercial background in photography and for many years worked in Editorials and Advertising in Johannesburg. For the longest time I have loved working with people and models but have more recently begun to explore my love of still life. I do however believe it is all visually connected - so whether you are shooting fashion, décor, portraits or landscapes… I think your photographic essence is the same.
I recently read that Tim Walker is your all-time favourite photographer. Why? Tim Walker is pure genius. His style encompasses everything I love about extravagant and mindblowing creativity. Although he is known for his fantastical shoots that can often be huge productions demanding set design, costume, prosthetics and fanciful make-up, his portraits however are the quieter cousin of his talent but yet no less impressive. I find this juxtaposition in his work approach absolutely intimidating and inspirational.
Why Malta? Malta has been home for many years and when I left South Africa over a decade ago, I felt a shift happen in me as a person and as an artist. As much as I loved the collaborative process of working on editorial shoots with insanely creative people, commercial photography can be brutal and competitive with little space for error. Now in Malta my focus has evolved to Fine Art Photography and I love taking the time to explore my own creativity.
Susan Sontag once noted; “Photographs are a way of imprisoning reality. w One can't possess reality, one can possess images--one can't possess the present but one can possess the past.” To what extent do you agree? I do agree that photographs have the capability of capturing reality, but conversely the capability of capturing illusion too. Photography remains a powerful medium that can be used puristically or with maverick intent to really flaunt a photographer’s imagination. Sontag’s statement highlights the fact that photography has had the power to capture remarkable, shocking and beautiful moments in our history that stand as reminder of what we as humans are capable of. If you are willing to have a look at photography, you are willing to see everything we are.
Why is photography important in today's society? I think professional photography is important in today’s society. Photography has become totally accessible to every person and the way in which we capture imagery as a community has changed the playing field for professional photographers. So in a society where imagery is consumed and disregarded so quickly, I feel professional photographers have a responsibility to execute their craft well and have a narrative that is memorable.
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FLOREAL
EST1996
75/77, Labour Avenue, Naxxar, Malta. - T. 21470744/5
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Do you feel photographers have a social responsibility? Yes I do. In the same way I feel as a human I have a social responsibility. I can only produce work that is in line with my core value system. I have huge respect for documentary photographers that photograph different cultures in different societies. They are intrinsically aware of how photography impacts others and how to respect the values and beliefs of the people they are shooting. Often when we as a society see the final imagery, we don’t quite realize how photographers become engrained in the communities of the people they are photographing. This is why documentary photography can be so powerful – because it comes from such an authentic place.
How do you find a perfect balance between work and a personal life? There is no such thing and it certainly isn’t perfect. It is a constant juggle.
Any projects in the pipeline? I am in collaboration with the botanical artist Caroline O’Callaghan. We have an ongoing still life project uniting our collective aesthetic.
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An Eloquent
Eye
Kurt Paris
INTERVIEW
WITH
Sean
MALLIA
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ean Mallia has an evident penchant for photography, something he’s revealed over the years with his strippeddown and undeniably powerful depictions of food, architecture and fashion. Sean is as talented as they come and irrespective of the theme he is working on, his work is fresh, captivating and with that masterful finesse only a great photographer can offer. Atelier had the opportunity to talk to Sean about what it takes to run and sustain a successful photography business, how he creates stunning images and about his most recent project Vernacular.
A TELIER You were first a communications student and then a physics and informatics student. You also studied architecture. However, it seems photography is what really drives your inner passion. Is that correct? It took a long process to find what I was really passionate about. All the years at University, both curricular and extra curricular, were interesting and have shaped who I am today. They also have shaped and still influence my work to this day. However, I always wanted to pursue a career where I would wake up every day filled with excitement, joy, fear, doubt, intrigue and purpose. I have this terrible affliction of having too many interests, a constant fluctuation of moods and a very short attention span, so following and deciding on one career path from a very early stage was never on my books. While studying architecture, I discovered photography. The two go hand in hand because they inspire and influence each other. Eventually I decided to focus on just that, my true passion.
Fashion Shoot - Vernacular
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Still Life - Flowers, objects and fruit (flowers by Alistair Floral Design & styling by Sean Mallia)
A TELIER Who/what were your early influences? Form is what really excites me, visually speaking, so I always enjoyed looking at photographs, paintings, sculpture, renderings and drawings that celebrate it. Architectural photography, nude photography, still life; anything that manifests any form of beauty, in the best light possible, became my muse. Looking at a finished product was never enough; learning how it is achieved on a technical level and understanding why beauty also has a function within our lives are also what fuel my daily quest for it. To answer your question it would not be enough to just mention photographers, architects or artists who inspire me. Because, from the start and thus far, the answer is that everything inspires me. Life itself, living things, culture, materials and objects of any scale, the light that renders it and the environment or space which encapsulates it all is a life force of inspiration.
How would you describe your style? I would describe it in the same way I would describe my personality: a duality that has both sides constantly battling and contradicting each other. The side that triumphs – at least temporarily – is the one that reflects my alternating moods or my surroundings. I often absorb the energy of my clients or my friends and I transmit it in my work. Somehow during the years I have managed to master a way to make this tendency seem somewhat coherent. As a former architecture student in Malta, I am drawn to modernism because it is the most relevant and significant preceding era within our time. I and most of my generation that studied architecture therefore look for asymmetrical balance, discarding the over-decoration, function, abstraction and clean compositions. I like to challenge traditional aesthetic beliefs and practices, while sometimes revisiting them. Another side of my soul however, seeks to be more dramatic and extravagant. My method is that I start from reality. I look at the product and I appreciate it for what it is. The next step is to go to a blank canvas and construct an elementary composition. When that part is done, I start to dream.
Fashion Shoot - Vernacular
There is a strong sense of detail, precision and symmetry in your work. Is your photography influenced by your architecture and physics background? In any profession, you learn about the main topics that concern your field. More fundamentally however, you learn a systematic approach on how to understand a task and how to solve problems. This process can be translated and used across multiple professions and scenarios. While the knowledge which I gained during my years of studying different subjects does heavily influence my output, it is the process which I go through that I am particularly focused on.
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You have often noted that Malta has a lot to offer in terms of architecture. Why is Malta architecture so inspiring for a photographer? Maltese architecture has many layers, some of which are interesting and beautiful, and other, more recent layers, very disappointing. It is my job and duty as a creatives to capture what is beautiful, but to also point out what is not. What makes food so interesting from a photographic point of view? Food to me is form, and more. I sometimes look at certain foods and I see a potential design for a building. Other times I see a potential statue that fills a space beautifully. Food can be seen in so many ways: essential nutrition, an item of luxury, an indulgence for the soul, a work of art, a statement, an aphrodisiac to our desires or all of these factors meshed together. So why not celebrate it today by giving it the spotlight like so many artists have done through still life in times past?
Tell us a bit about your latest project, Vernacular. I was very pleased to be entrusted with this photo shoot - and yet also surprised. I have worked on fashion campaigns before, however I am not particularly known for it because I specialise in other genres. But when Luke Dimech, who is an up and coming fashion designer, approached me with this task, I immediately saw that he wanted to go for something different. His brand is called VERNACULAR and this particular collection is called 'One Eye Open'. We spoke a lot about his ideas, his concepts, his modus operandi, our mutual admiration of Irving Penn's work, 'gender-fullness', fabrics and still life photography. He wanted to go for something uncomplicated and familiar while telling a story that is nuanced. His first collection is centered on the artist at home, at work and in their own environment. So the images had to be less fashion-y, less glamorous and not overly produced. At the same time they still needed to evoke emotion and allow the user to dream through the use of light, texture, detail and abstracted styling. So it was a good fit that I collaborated with him and his team - and we are all happy with the result.
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Does Vernacular indicate some form of shift in your work? One of the reasons why I am pleased with this collaboration is because it coincided with my intention to take still life photography further from just objects, products, flowers, plants and food. I want to give still life even more life by adding a human element which gives it a whole new dynamic. This was a good first step and there is room for much more experimentation.
Has the COVID-19 pandemic affected your work and photographic mood? In a way, it was a welcomed disaster. It reminded me that we need to stop and think about how good we have it. We had so many liberties and opportunities that we took for granted which at the moment are very restricted. In the meantime I took the advantage of catching up with a lot of pending things. It gave me the time to stop, reflect and breathe. We all need to adapt to the new circumstances and it never hurts to rethink new directions and new projects.
What's next for you? My next step is to set up a permanent studio where I could do shoots for clients from one place but also use it as my fortress of solitude to work on personal projects. I need a space where I can think, conceptualise ideas, experiment, build and create. Once this is done, I look forward to many collaborations with other artists, designers, florists, models and retailers who supply beautiful items. Another move I also have been thinking about is to do more work abroad. Malta has a lot to offer but it also has its limitations. My mission is to have access to the best quality of items that deserve to be captured within a still life and have their beauty perceived through my style.
A TELIER
FOOD SHOTS: Abstract styling for HSixty6 restaurant
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Hendrik Kerstens, Spout, 2011
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A TELIER
Portrait of a Lady HENDRIK KERSTENS
INTERVIEW
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triking, inspiring and all with an underlying message is the best way to describe the work of Dutch photographer, Hendrik Kerstens. His portraits look somewhat familiar and
somehow induce you to ask; is it a Vermeer? A Christus? A van Eyck? The subject of his work is his daughter, Paula, who is often portrayed as a pale but dignified young woman whose face emerges in profile from a deep shadow, dressed in the traditional Dutch Golden Age attire. Kerstens' work does not just imitate the work of leading Dutch masters' paintings. His work is a game of conceptual and humorous dialog between past and present. Conceptually, Kerstens' photographs play with the dialog between the mediums of painting and photography, with seriality, and time. On a more emotional level, they address everyday reality while expressing his love for his child, and the knowledge and development of his craft. Hendrik shared with Atelier the essence of his work and style, the reason behind his focus on Dutch painters of the 17th Century and what's next for him.
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vulnerability and love could be explored throughout photographing Paula. More than making family snapshots, I wanted to record the fleeting moods, changes and events as well as the significant physical and psychological transitions in my child’s life. By extension, the pictures becoming over time an ongoing dialogue between father and daughter.
You have recently defined, "our modern-day Dutch master." To what extent do you agree? For me it is important that my artworks emerge from deep within me. In some way they are intertwined with my Dutch DNA. From this perspective, it is very honorable if someone calls you a “modern-day Dutch master�. I also try to absorb and renew Northern European artistic traditions within my work. I want to stay away from mimicry, because for me making art is about recreating and reinterpreting multiple visual cultures. That is why I try to contextualize and understand images of Netherlandish paintings throughout my oeuvre. It seems that initially your photographs were created out of a genuine desire to capture your daughter's fleeting childhood. How did things develop? I did not formally train as an artist, but at the age of forty I took up photography and left the wine-business as an importer. My wife Anna worked fulltime in a pharmacy to support this change of direction. In a reversal of more traditional roles, I cared for our young daughter Paula alongside studying photography during the day. Having a child made a deep impression on me. I thought that the accompanying feelings of responsibility,
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Why does your work specifically focus on Dutch painters of the 17th Century? Some Dutch painters of the 17th century are silent teachers who give me goosebumps. However, the paintings that most closely connect with my artworks are that of the Flemish Primitives. The portraits that I admire have in common that they are always descriptive, not interpretive. The subjects are depicted in isolation. The portraits emphasize the specific, the identity of the person and not the general, a concept or a fine quality. They are about the actual characteristics of the sitter: they do not idealize. That is something I also strive for. My goal is to add a dimension in which the person depicted is able to convey the feeling that the artist or camera is not present. How would you define your style? I borrow from the past, but I also desire to rupture classical codes apart by using modern-day materials to introduce a tacit ecological message. That is how I add twists to themes of family and (art) history in my artworks. You have a reputation of being a state-of-the-art perfectionist. When you want to emphasize a staged and monumental quality to your works you have to be precise in your practical and technical working methods. But to maintain a certain quality over the years has more to do with perseverance, discipline and the eagerness to learn new things.
Hendrik Kerstens, Red Turban, 2015
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I read your work focuses on the fact that daily life has always been central to art. Can you elaborate? I think all artists respond in some way creatively to daily life and their domestic surroundings. When I look at things, I automatically see other possibilities than the intentional purpose of it (for example plastic bags, napkins, cupcakes and doilies). The materials I use correspond to daily life, but also refer to a fantasy world that exists consciously or subconsciously. In what way is your work a dialog between the mediums of painting and photography? In addition to understanding and reinterpreting artistic traditions, I think it is important to allow classical forms to enter into a dialogue with contemporary techniques and visual languages. That is why I use objects from my personal surroundings. My point is that disposables, such as plastic bags, can be turned into portable attributes with an ironical twist end therefor have the ability to refer to our collective memory. In this way I can underline my concern about our treatment towards the environment, the beauty of insignificant materials and make a conceptual leap in time to the descriptive character of our art historical past. Because what fascinates me most about Northern European painting is the way in which paintings can be interpreted as descriptions of everyday life.
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Your work includes the famous "Dutch" light. Why is such detail so important in your work? Light has been used in various ways in art over the centuries. The Dutch light conveys a feeling that corresponds to the atmosphere of nature in which we live in as Northern Europeans. I use it in my work because it suits the environment in which I live in, but also to convey a sense of sobriety, clarity and serenity. Light is therefore an ingredient that partly determines the recipe for a good picture. But depth of field, details and the way of looking also contribute to the expressiveness of my compositions. People are often struck by the names you give to the names you give to your work. What lies behind such original names? What you see is what you get. To be serious, I do not believe the artworks are better with a literary high- end name, that is why the titles are close to the subjects’ matter. What's next for you? I will of course continue to photograph Paula. But I also am working on some sculptures to examine the possibilities of photography and 3D printing. I also made attempts in painting in order to merge between all kinds of media. I do not want to be limited by one discipline. I believe that the pictorial effect can be the same in painting, photography and sculpture. In this way I can bring my fascination for all kind of arts together in my own artistic practice.
A TELIER
© Hendrik Kerstens, Bag, 2007
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