Delicious No 24

Degustating Autumn

Food for Thought

This is indeed a challenging time for the catering industry. A moment of truth for many establishments. A do or die situation for some. An opportunity to renew, redefine and even grow, for others. The COVID-19 pandemic, the war in Ukraine as well as the recession looming on all corners of the planet have hit the catering industry in different ways.

Whilst all establishments have felt the bite, some are thriving, some have changed their modus operandi, some have shrunk their operations whilst others had to close or are on the brink of closing. No matter what situation establishments are facing, the challenges are quite the same for all - a scarcity of good human resources, a sudden increase in price of raw materials, a constantly changing consumer behaviour as well as a host of bureaucratic challenges just to mention a few.

And yet the catering industry is still alive and kicking. The catering industry keeps on surprising us with new realities, with new talent with new ideas. The catering industry keeps on adapting itself as it always did to keep on surviving, to keep on growing, to keep on thriving.

Publishing Editor Omar Vella | Design Robert Caruana | Printing & Publishing Union Print Co. Ltd. | Proof Reading Ramona Vella Cini

COVER Tartelette au chocolat Marsan par Hélène Darroze

Terroir is situated in the heart of Attard a few metres away from the Parish Church. The restaurant is housed in an antique building which reveals the skill and the style of the local stonemasons of the previous century. To be precise, it is located next to an old horse trough which echoes the times when horse drawn carriages on their way to Valletta or vice-versa, stopped at this strategic location to quench the thirst of their horses.

Andre describes this fine dining concept as one that has a unique combination of tastes. In his own words – “The taste of a place”. Upon asked why Terroir, of all the names in the world, he instantly replied, “I intend to promote local produce and the use of top-quality ingredients from the local terra”. His partner in crime Nicholas added, “Terroir reflects the characteristics of a specific time and place.”

Terroir’s skilful young chef and co-founder of Terroir Andre Borg, is driven by a passion for excellence. After completing his studies in Malta, Andre ventured to London where he acquired valuable experience as a commis chef at multiple restaurants owned by the renowned Gordon Ramsey. Throughout his spell in London, Andre exhibited an intense ambition and superb culinary skills. His remarkable consistency routed him to the Orangery at Rocklife Hall Restaurant, in Darlington where he was appointed as sous chef. During his time, the Orangery was awarded 4AA Rosettes, making it one of the 43 restaurants in UK which have this label.

Andre reached another milestone in his career when he was chosen for the popular programme MasterChef.

When he returned to his homeland, Andre’s desire to share what he had learnt and experienced enthused him to co-found Terroir, a fine dining concept with specific characteristics. At Terroir, taste of what’s provided on earth (terra) during the different seasons, is of utmost importance. This is further flavoured by the character of the location and the hospitality of Andre’s brother-in-law and co-founder Nicholas. Nicholas’ zeal at the front of house complements that of his brother-in-law and his approach with the patrons clearly reflects the number of years he clocked up in the industry as commis chef at St. Mellion International Resort and as head server at multiple 5-star hotels in Malta.

“Happy is he who, like Ulysses, has returned successful from his travels….”

ChefAlexandre Mazzia

Alexandre Mazzia’s AM Par Alexandre Mazzia is a deeply personal expression of his story, thoughts and heart. The restaurant name itself is a play on the French word for soul, âme, as well as Alexandre’s initials. For him, to welcome guests into his home is to give them a glimpse into his soul.

He took inspiration from his surroundings and spent his time exploring the outdoors. A dedicated student, he earned a Degree in Science; however, it was sport that captivated his attention and, standing at 1.92 metres, he became a professional basketball player. Upon returning to France, he attended a hospitality and gastronomy school, École Hoteliere Santos Dumont in St. Cloud; his grandmother’s aphorism of “cooks never starve” had affected him significantly. He then accepted numerous apprenticeships, working at Place de la Madeleine in Paris and several celebrated French kitchens before travelling to Spain, where he staged at the world-famous Santi Santamaria in Barcelona. While continuing his ascent in the kitchen, Alexandre combined experiences in the world’s best restaurants with a pro basketball career until an injury forced his retirement in 2004.

Alexandre’s first solo position was as a private chef at Le Hom’Art in Avignon, where he spent a year and a half cooking for dignitaries and VIP clientele. In 2009, he accepted a permanent role in Marseille at Le Corbusier, where his own style began to formalise and emerge. Life in Marseille suited Alexandre, and he began to cook more confidently, leaning on the surroundings and incorporating local produce with his African childhood and influences. With its geographical positioninglocated on the coast of the Gulf of Lion and part of the Mediterranean Sea - and its history as an important port city, Marseille challenged Alexandre, forcing him to explore further and search deeper. Opening AM Par Alexandre Mazzia in 2014; he continues exploring and taking inspiration from the sunshine city.

Born to French parents but spending his childhood in the Republic of Congo, Alexandre grew up with a curious nature under myriad influences.

Feeding his soul

Alexandre continues to seek creativity from his experiences and surroundings, pushing himself into a place of imaginativeness and boundless creativity where he is able to test new ideas. Memories of his childhood in The Congo, his travels across Europe and the sights, sounds and smells of Marseille all feed into this creativity and result in a new type of cuisine. The influence of France remains strong, but Spain and Central Africa, too. His was a training of haute cuisine, altered through time and shaped by a life of transit and multifarious cultures in which guests journey on a replication of Alexandre’s many adventures in a new innovative menu, one without rules and boundaries.

Mastering raw ingredients and transforming them with such freedom continues to offer excitement and freedom to Alexandre. With the relationships formed with his producers and suppliers, he can experiment further and apply varying techniques and new, left-of-centre ideas to the finest ingredients. This combination allows him to cook with confidence and originality, not bound by past teachings or the perceived food of the region, but something entirely authentic.

Guests can expect evolving Travel Menus, where ever-changing expressions of Alexandre’s thoughts and ruminations of the day transpire. Menus range from ten to twenty-five individual small dishes, uniting the kitchen and the diner and designed to each guest’s mood, appetite and energy on the day.

With worldwide influences, Alexandre’s repertoire dips and dives with pickings from across the globe. While his producers, suppliers and growers gravitate around Marseille, his inspirations and learnt techniques are infinite. His relationships with local suppliers significantly impact the menu and form the genesis of many recipes. Jean-Baptiste Anfosso lovingly grows permaculture vegetables, Sylvain Erhardt delivers his famous springtime asparagus and Xavier Alazard blends divine olive oils.

Given the seafront location, Alexandre is regularly in contact with local fishermen, too, sampling the morning catch and working with Fabian Gardon, one of the youngest fishermen in Marseille. He sources spices from Saladin in Noailles, Romuald, a specialist of Indian spices and Arnaud, who travels around the world to discover spices.

A triangle of tastes

At the heart of Alexandre’s cooking is a triangle of flavours, pointing to spice, smoke and chilli. Each flavour weaves between courses and connects his childhood in Pointe-Noir (the secondlargest city in the Congo) to his current home in Marseille, where heat lifts ocean flavours, and smoke infuses and slow-cooks fish - inspired by fishing trips with his father.

Spices

Galangal, ginger and cumin balance in a signature blend of spices that Alexandre uses like salt to season and heighten each dish’s flavour, colour and depth. Other flavours, like the use of fennel, bring a light-aniseed profile to dishes.

Smoke

Burnt and charred woods create smoky aromas that boldly punctuate Alexandre’s cuisine. Different varieties of wood, such as vine shoots, beech wood and olive tree, are used to present varying levels of woodiness, imparting all manner of delicate smoky flavours.

Chilli

Another connecting thread is Alexandre’s knowledge of chilli. Under his control, chilli builds bridges between flavours, creating an energetic tension that allows a dish to reveal a heightened taste. With over 45 kinds of chillies, some remain vibrant and fresh while others are submerged in oil or brine, dried or powdered. The results allow for the liberal application of varying chilli flavours and heats.

Take, for instance, a recipe like chocolate-smoked eel tartlet, as explosive as it is beguiling, and a langoustine coated in manioc with egg yolk confit and mirin rice wine, which lifts the natural sweetness of the langoustine and lends mild acidity from the use of mirin. The menu playfully examines colours and flavours, stretching ingredients’ capabilities and showing guests what’s possible with creative expression. From vitaminised oranges to coral blues, dishes visually set the tone for guests’ expectations while always respecting the locale and the seasons.

The menu is a freestyle evolution, always bold, always contemporary, and always technically precise.

CELEBRATING FOOD

It is impressive how BAHIA continues to consolidate its reputation as one of the best Michelin Starred restaurants on the island even after its move to the first floor of the elegant Corinthia Palace Hotel.

The restaurant is a true gem blessed by the creative hands of a team of talented chefs. Their work is simply amazing. They constantly create dishes that enhance the dining experience compared to the norm and as a result make it memorable.

Food at BAHIA is based on four fundamentals; flavour, beauty, creativity and intention. The combination of this quartet creates the magic which has made the restaurant stand out.

The recent challenges the industry is facing have not deterred their mood and the team has prepared a selection of 8-course degustation menus that focus on the PAST, PRESENT and FUTURE.

The “PAST” degustation focuses on 8 important periods during Maltese history, thus using some of the representative ingredients during those times to create a contemporary dish. This menu pays homage to the importance of our diverse historical developments that led us to be what we are today. Amongst the periods the menu touches on are; Stone Age, Phoenicians, Romans, Arabs, Knights Hospitallers and Maltese. To evoke the culinary flavours of the periods selected, the degustation menu includes; charred Local Red Prawn; spelt salad in Melqart dressing; Hibachi grilled Guinea fowl thigh ‘Label Rouge’, “Imqaret”, Almond & Aniseed Extra Virgin Olive Oil Cake.

The “PRESENT” is a seasonal plant-based option which includes; turnip Ajo Blanco, almond, green grapes, nuts and seeds cracker, in-house soy ricotta raviolo, tomato fondue, peach and lemon verbena consommé, Hendricks gin and tonic sorbet with juniper, cucumber and mint and Maitake mushroom, mushroom panise, king oyster crisp with fermented mushroom tea, and chestnut mushroom palmier.

On the other hand, the “FUTURE” is represented by a menu that gives the team the opportunity to push certain boundaries and create creative courses with a view of entertaining those guests that feel comfortable trying new and unusual combinations of flavours. The menu includes; ‘Froġa tat-Tarja’, ‘Braġjolu’ and ‘Ġelat Tan-Nanna’ which are contemporary dishes inspired from our culinary heritage.

BAHIA is indeed a celebration of food and worthy to enjoy with your loved ones. It is recommended to book before you visit.

RICARDO CANELLA AT RISTORANTE ORO

Born in Northern Padua, Riccardo Canella’s exemplary career began in acclaimed, star-studded establishments in Italy before he arrived in Denmark. There, he began working in the kitchens of Copenhagen’s three-Michelin-starred Noma. Now he returns to the City of Water, armed with a passion for Venetian cuisine and lagoon culture. His team of loyal chefs join him in bringing his unique creative flair, dynamism and innovative skills to life at Cipriani.

Riccardo began his career at a young age, working alongside gastronomic gurus such as Gualtiero Marchesi and Massimiliano Alajmo. These masters impressed on him the need to pay dutiful attention to raw produce, unearthing the true essence of ingredients. During his seven years working for René Redzepi at Noma, he spent three years in the test kitchen. As such, he was part of the creative beating heart of a place that, time and again, has been named the World’s Best Restaurant.

Chef Canella says: “Returning to Italy, tiptoeing into my homeland, into a panorama as magical and mysterious as Venice, is the only road I would go down to test myself at this point in my career.” As he takes the helm at Cipriani’s dining outlets, including Michelin-starred Ristorante Oro, anticipate a fresh wave of culinary excellence on your next visit to our Giudecca legend.

ORO

Are you excited about your return to Venice?

Absolutely. I’m thrilled to return to Italy and an environment that reflects my roots. I’m looking forward to finding a new language to craft what I hope will be a new Italian cuisine. This is my idea. I’m super-excited and ready for this challenge. It holds deep meaning for me.

How do you feel about becoming Executive Chef of Cipriani?

After Noma, choosing to become part of such a large brand as Belmond and such a legendary hotel as Cipriani is a way of leaving my comfort zone and facing a new challenge. I see great opportunity and the space to express myself. I’d like to add a bit of zing into the classical mix. I intend to use all of my knowledge, professionalism and talent to create a new gastronomic language.

How will your experience at Noma influence your new role in Venice?

It will lead me to create something new. With my senses and sensitivity, I will design something innovative without losing sight of Cipriani’s hallowed history. My mantra is: “you can’t know where you are going if you don’t know where you come from”. I’m here in Venice to create something new.

So, your philosophy will be different?

My philosophy will stay the same, but time and place will help me understand the direction I want to take.

Can you tell us a little about the ingredients you will use?

The cornerstones of my philosophy are: quality of ideas, of thought, of product and of execution. I intend to use the best that the lagoon microclimate has to offer, including products that are both popular and new, always depending on their quality at the time. There are so many unused ingredients for us to try. Do you expect your appointment at Cipriani to inspire Venetians to try your cuisine?

I hope so. How this evolution will take place I don’t know. At the moment I think the opposite may occur – the more visitors come to Venice, the more we will be able to attract local customers.

How will you inspire hotel guests who are not familiar with your food?

I’m not going to be totally avant-garde. I’m going to focus on taste and the creation of a new Italian cuisine. I won’t create inaccessible dishes and if there’s a barrier of mistrust, it will be broken down by the exceptional lightness of my cuisine. I don’t want to be pretentious.

Do you have a signature dish in mind?

I’m not fond of labelling dishes, so I don’t set out to create signatures. If anything, it will be the guests who establish one.

And what about desserts? Can you give us any hints?

Desserts must always be challenging, but at the same time indulgent. Ingredients are key. That’s all I’m saying at this point!

How do you enjoy your spare time? Do you have any hobbies?

I read and write a lot. I love art and find it inspirational, especially impressionism and contemporary art. I also play the drums and I find the binary form in music is very similar to the way I approach cooking.

A picturesque dining room sits at the edge of the water, immersing guests in a more tranquil side of the city, where bustle gives way to vistas. As a port, Venice has a long history of innovation, cultural exchange, and trade routes where the finest produce and artisans have crossed paths and woven their stories throughout the city.

It is against this backdrop that Chef Riccardo Canella has taken the reins of Oro at Hotel Cipriani, deepening its connection with its surroundings and creating seasonal menus that celebrate the wealth of local and regional producers. The key to Riccardo’s cooking is to approach the familiar and consider it with a new perspective in order to develop a greater depth and balance in flavour. Dishes bring together the unlikely combination of the earthy, sweet notes in woodruff ice cream, the salinity of oyster sorbet, a cream infused with blue cheese and united with the grassy undertones of tarragon oil. Riccardo explains, “I want to create a perfect circle with flavour, to bring surprise but with sensitive tension and perfect balance.” His dishes are complex in their execution but have a simple elegance in their presentation so that flavours are distilled at their finest. And there is always fun in his cooking, a lightness of touch that is explored through texture as much as flavour.

In many ways, Oro is a restaurant that captures the heart of Venice; its romance, beauty, and connectivity with the sea.

ORO

Naturally, seafood from the Adriatic Sea plays a huge part in his menu, and Riccardo has curated personal relationships with independent fishermen to ensure the finest available for Oro. “The last time I had access to fish this good was in Japan,” he explains.

The menu comprises eight courses, starting with delicate snacks and small bites, followed by a series of light courses that guide the palate through the ebb and flow of flavour, becoming deeper as it progresses, before a finale of desserts and petit fours.

Oro means gold in Italian, which refers to the original gold ceiling in the dining room. But for Riccardo, its meaning has greater resonance as its origins are found in many languages and cultures around the world. He takes inspiration from gold, of course, as it’s the alchemist’s perfection in all matters, but more especially from the Greek meaning for mountain, ‘oros’, as he strives towards a pinnacle, defining his continual aspiration to excel.

His arrival reflects a new beginning for Oro, with artwork chosen by Riccardo himself, building on the essence of Belmond, rich with narrative and an illustrious past, while looking to the future with excellence, elegance, and a quiet, refined dynamism.

G A L B E N M O S H E & P R I S M

E R L I N

Michelin-starred restaurant prism is the refined contemporary urban home of Levantine cuisine from Chef Gal Ben Moshe, encompassing an exquisite wine offering from his Sommelier wife and business partner, Jacqueline Lorenz.

G A L B E N M O S H E & P R I S M B E R L I N

Inspired by the historic dishes of the Levant, menus at prism are anchored in the imaginative use of live fire, adding a delicate smoky touch to almost every dish. Seafood also plays a key part, in celebrating Gal’s earliest influence of growing up in the coastal city of Tel Aviv. Menus are an innovative contrast of elegance and balance, celebrating the finest in taste and flavours of the season. Each of the 230 selections on the wine menu has been carefully selected by Jacqueline to match the intricate balance of each dish.

Prism is located in the Charlottenburg district of Berlin, less than 10 minutes walk from the main Berlin Charlottenburg train station. The comfortable calm interiors are based on a neutral colour palette, offset with intimate soft lighting. Service is relaxed, attentive and approachable, creating a warm and friendly atmosphere.

G A L B E N M O S H E

Born and raised in the coastal city of Tel Aviv, chef Gal Ben Moshe became immersed in the city’s international dining scene from childhood. His parents loved to share their passion for the dynamic cities of the world, experiencing globally diverse restaurant choices with their two sons - Gal and his brother - and put dining outside the home at the centre of their lives.

Gal grew up exposed to the ingredients, tastes and flavours of dishes from many cultures and countries, but surprisingly, not his own. As a young teenager, he was accepted into a prestigious high school, where students began bachelor degrees in parallel with their high school diplomas. Gal’s focus was computer science.

G A L B E N M O S H E & P R I S M B E R L I N

At the age of 15, his parents separated and he went to live with his grandparents, just as his grandfather became very ill. It was an incredibly difficult time for him and amidst the uncertainty, came an ambition and drive to help by becoming self-sufficient. One evening his father took him to dinner at his favourite seafood restaurant, connected to a highly regarded fish importer. The quality of fish and seafood there was reputed to be the best in the country, and Gal decided then that this was a place he could work, learn and earn. Each morning he would start at 4 am, clean fish and prepare it for the restaurant, before starting school at 9 am. At times, Gal would skip his studies in order to keep working, pleading to be allowed to move into the restaurant. Finally, his enthusiasm and tenacity earned him the chance to prove himself and he was allowed his first opportunity in the kitchen.

For Gal, it was this first space that captured his entire focus, and he was totally absorbed from the beginning to the end of each shift, no matter the hours. By age 22 Gal had grown in confidence and technique, and in 2007 he moved to London. Gal started working at Gordon Ramsay’s then 1- Michelin starred ‘Maze’ in Mayfair, 2-Michelin starred ‘Marcus’ by Marcus Wareing at The Berkeley in Knightsbridge, and 2-Michelin starred ‘Hibiscus’ under Claude Bosi in Mayfair. Throughout all these kitchens there was a recurring theme - fish.

The speed at which Gal was able to clean, prepare, fillet and cook fish guaranteed him a home in the city’s top kitchens. Fish and seafood in general had now become an anchor and passion in Gal’s cooking, where being well-read on fish migration, the appreciation of less popular species, and even the part the Suez Canal played in the movement of fish from the Red to the Mediterranean Seas proved how informed he was. It is this in-depth and all-encompassing attention and interest that has persisted from his school days throughout his career.

G A L B E N M O S H E & P R I S M B E R L I N

After London, Gal went back to Tel Aviv to learn the business operations of restaurants, how to survive challenging situations, and equally enjoy the rewarding times. Shortly after, his grandfather died, and he inherited enough money for him to open his own restaurant. In 2013, he successfully opened GLASS in Charlottenburg, and within two years his menus had attracted an international demographic, taking the trajectory of the restaurant with it. With the pressure to constantly deliver, the restaurant needed a sommelier, and Jacqueline (now his wife), whom he had met in the meantime, stepped into the role and never looked back, even against their earlier pact never to work together. She is now one of Germany’s top 50 sommeliers. As GLASS developed, Gal felt limited by his European-style meals and wanted to draw closer to his origins.

Through Jacqueline, he met a winemaker’s family and they planned an exclusive wine pairing dinner at the winery. Inspired by the winery’s setting, Gal developed his recipes to fit their wines, rather than vice versa. This sparked his interest in historical Levant recipes, ingredients, and their uses. He also wanted to learn more about his birthplace’s culinary traditions. When approached to conduct a pop-up in Hong Kong later that year, he created a dish inspired by the dinner. He returned to Berlin with newfound enthusiasm, stronger motivation, and a transformation in his culinary approach. Gal slowly began introducing his new dishes at GLASS, which were welcomed with enthusiasm by his loyal following of guests. He knew then he was now on his own path, combining all the skills and crafts he had acquired up until that point, with the tastes, flavours, and techniques of a heritage that was authentic to him.

He took the bold step to close GLASS in March 2018 and opened prism, in Berlin that same year in November.

Prism reflects the international city where it exists: Berlin. A city which in recent times has benefited from an immigration population and its impact on food culture, access to ingredients, and a wider understanding of flavour and taste by its residents. It is against this backdrop that Gal researches and develops the dishes from the Levant. He is able to combine his training in European fine dining, personal life experiences, and a sense of history from his homeland to create dishes that may not be culturally traditional, but are celebrated for being authentic to him and the space at prism.

Prism was awarded its first Michelin star in March 2020, in Berlin.

G A L B E N M O S H E & P R I S M B E R L I N

JACQUELINE LORENZ

The trade press named Jacqueline one of Germany’s top 50 sommeliers, and she personally selected every wine on the menu’s 230 positions.

She is thrilled to help you choose the finest wine for your meal or to inspire you with perfectly matched wine pairings. She not only shines with solid technical expertise as a restaurant manager and sommelier, but she also has an extraordinarily nice and unpretentious manner with guests, which makes the local Berliner very happy. She offers the right wine to go with the meal, and her knowledge of the topic is evident while being pleasantly casual.

Jacqueline explains and laughs, ‘I was born in Berlin, which is everything else but a wine area. I hail from a working-class background, therefore there would be no alcohol at the dinner table.’’ I used to think that folks who smelled flowers and ate cherries were making things up. Then Gal brought a bottle of wine to our second date, and I smelled apricots in it. Eureka!’’

To truly show the wines of the eastern Mediterranean, Prism of course has a few German suppliers. It also imports Lebanese wines, as the Lebanese wine industry is very export dependent.

Most of the Israeli wines, are directly imported by Prism as they are not found anywhere else in Germany. They also have a selection of Israeli wines such as from Philokalia, a great Palestinian winery.

G A L B E N M O S H E & P R I S M B E R L I N

at Villa La Coste Provence

Marsan Paris

Born in Mont de Marsan in Les Landes, Southwestern France, Hélène is the fourth generation from a family of chefs. Unsurprisingly, she grew up instilled with a deep respect for her own regional culture and ingredients and immersed herself in the discipline and values of fine dining.

However, it was the operational side of the restaurant industry that first appealed to the young Hélène, and she left school to complete a business degree at L’Ecole

Supérieure de Commerce in Bordeaux. After graduation, she relocated to Monaco to work behind the scenes with Alain Ducasse at his three Michelin-starred Le Louis XV in the famous Hotel De Paris. However, it wasn’t long before Ducasse realised her innate potential and enticed her –initially part-time – into the kitchen.

In 1995, she returned to her home region of Les Landes, when her father gave her the keys to the kitchen of the family-run, Relais & Châteaux affiliated restaurant in Villeneuve-de-Marsan. This allowed Hélène to refine her culinary style with family support and where she remained for four years. By the time she turned 32, however, she was eager to build a career of her own and broke with family tradition, returning to Paris to open her own venture, Restaurant Hélène Darroze, in the heart of Saint-Germain des Prés on the Left Bank. The restaurant received international acclaim and was awarded its first Michelin star in 2001, followed by a second star in 2021.

at Villa La Coste Provence

at Villa La Coste Provence

July 2021 heralded a new chapter for Hélène Darroze when she announced her partnership with the grand luxury hotel, Villa La Coste, in Provence, France. Nestled at the heart of the Château La Coste Estate near Aix-en-Provence, the Villa La Coste is a modern-day luxury palace celebrating authentic and exclusive refinement, in total harmony with the artistic life of the surrounding estate.

Here, Hélène orchestrates the entire food and beverage operations, offering a cuisine in her image, imbued with emotion, sincerity and authenticity. Seduced by the opulence and diversity of the vegetables and fruit from the region, she chose to award them the leading role on the menu, allowing the products from the region to take centre stage. From appetisers to end-of-meal delicacies, they lead the dance from beginning to the end.

at Villa La Coste

Provence

at Villa La Coste

Provence

In the fine dining restaurant, the “Walk in the gardens of Provence” menu - developed by Hélène along side Marco Zampese, her Head Chef from Hélène Darroze at the Connaught in London, Thomas Pézeril, Executive Chef at Villa La Coste and her great pastry chef Kirk Whittle - takes place in eight acts. It will evolve and modify naturally according to the harvests and seasons.

Marsan Paris

Twenty years after her debut on the Left Bank in Paris, Hélène returned to her roots, reinventing N°4 Rue d’Assas with her new flagship restaurant, Marsan by Hélène Darroze on the original site of her Michelin-starred Restaurant Hélène Darroze in the 6th Arrondissement. Named after her home region in Les Landes in Southwestern France, Marsan opened its doors after an eleven-month refurbishment in 2019, presenting an exciting new menu and a stunningly redesigned interior.

Famed for championing her producers, Hélène created dishes that lead her guests through a lifetime of global experience and bespoke recipes, “I like people to trust me,” she explains. At Marsan, she honours the roots of her culinary odyssey, including the region of her birth – an area of wild Atlantic beaches, lush pine forests opening onto vast, golden cornfields, and a part of France celebrated for its famous duck and Armagnac. These influences of home are a thread through Hélène’s menu, the inspiration from which she approaches and creates.

Marsan

Paris

Over two decades, Hélène has used the idea of home as a basis from which to create and evolve. Her menus have journeyed and developed just as she has, absorbing the influences of the globe and significant lifedefining movements, from the tandoors of India and the dashis of Japan to the intricate fragrances of Vietnam, hints of her travels can be found interspersed through dishes, leaning on the finest French produce, where possible.

“I am Basque-Landaise,” she adds, “and this plays a vital role in who I am and what I create. I am made from that family and that soil – this is everything I am.” She continues, “When I was younger, maybe I tried to free myself more, but over time, I found myself going back and returning home. With Marsan, I wanted to create a restaurant that said everything about me, that shared my story while also being a platform from which I could launch a new chapter.”

Marsan

Paris

When you arrive at the restaurant, you immediately notice the exterior rich in symbolism for her beloved Les Landes. Indeed, such is her connection to the space that Hélène not only poured her imagination into creating new dishes that evoke a nostalgic nod to home but also invested emotionally into every detail of the building, working with the acclaimed French architect Patrice Gardera to bring her dreams to reality.

Oak wall panelling seamlessly links the spacious reception with the lightfilled, first-floor dining room, and on the ground level, two private dining options. The first seating 22 guests around a specially commissioned, six-meter long ‘table commune’ surrounded by enticing views into some of the restaurant’s impressive wine collection, and the second more intimate and enclosed, seats six around a circular, slate grey table. From the interiors to the crockery and pottery right through to service and the design of staff uniforms, Hélène exercised a hands-on approach, part of the process from inception right through to delivery.

Marsan Paris

As guests ascend the stairs into the main dining room, they are greeted by the restaurant’s dramatic kitchen with a dedicated six-seat Chef’s Table. Past a display dresser that has been created to pair with the light oak panels of the walls, Hélène displays some of her most personal items, including photos of home – with her two daughters Charlotte and Quiterie, and as a young child playing with her brother Marc – and of the Darroze family inn, the Hotel des Voyageurs in Villeneuve-de-Marsan. She has also included silver dishes and birds that adorn the tables, and there is a wine list from her beloved grandfather Jean and the recipe book of her grandmother Charlotte, an old family daubière and an assortment of chef books. All offer snapshots into the life of Hélène Darroze. Finally, the simple, stripped-back table settings with their bespoke ceramics encourage diners to touch and admire the crockery on display, preparing them for the theatrical offering each diner experiences at Marsan by Hélène Darroze.

C’est Magnifique!

Risette is spectacular, superb, interesting, innovative and a happy marriage of many concepts and ideas which come together to offer any guest a culinary experience hard to forget. The tastes, the flavours, the plating, the ambience, the service, offer that touch of magic which make Risette one of the best eateries on the island. A true food temple where one experiences a true culinary experience. Where to begin?

Indeed, the place stands out of the crowd for its attention to detail. Nothing is left to chance. The choice of furniture, the cutlery, the plating, the service, the food itself all have that touch of class, that touch of uniqueness which very few other eateries on the island offer. Every plate is a work of art that piques a guest’s interest to long for what’s coming next. Every plate encourages every guest to stop and appreciate the combination of flavours that come together. Above all, every plate makes you wonder how a pair of good hands in the kitchen could possibly come up with such a masterpiece.

The restaurant is a true gem blessed by the creative hands of two of Malta’s most talented chefs, David Tanti and Steve Scicluna. Their work is simply amazing and constantly create incredible dishes using simple ingredients with modern techniques without being too ‘nouvelle cuisine’ about it. Indeed, the detail, the colours, the flavours are a true reflection of their culinary philosophy which focuses on new ways of dismantling traditional precepts of food, bringing experiential dining to the table. A philosophy nurtured in some of the best local and foreign eateries. A philosophy which is clearly spelt out in their tasting menu.

A set menu which is a true statement of their abilities with sweet and salt starting off with the bread. A food critic recently noted that she always judges a respectable or fine dining restaurant by which kind of bread they serve to start a culinary journey. Truly so because bread and the choice of butter, are tiny details that are overlooked way too often by establishments and consumers yet make such a significant difference.

A detail which is not underestimated at Risette.

Bread is followed by a selection of canapés which includes; Gillardeau oyster with elderflower and jalapeño, smoked eel bignè and pizza soufflé, that serve as a perfect whet your appetite start. However, best is yet to come because the marinated tomato and French bean tart with ‘ġbejna’ and Alsace bacon can only be coined as ‘divine’. That fresh fruity flavour only tomatoes can offer combined with the smokiness of bacon and that unique taste only a local ‘ġbejna’ can offer make this simple dish simply amazing and piques your curiosity for what’s coming next. The next plate will surely not disappoint because the local prawn quenelle with kolhrabi, parsley and sauce sopina is a combination you will rarely come across in any local restaurant.

The menu also includes a pasta element with the inclusion of buckwheat tagliolini, cacio e pepe. A simple dish which gives justice to a staple of Italy’s cuisine cooked to perfection. If all this sounds impressive, one will quickly realise that Chef Tanti has more in store to entertain his guests with. Indeed, the red snapper with courgettes, coco de paimpol, and clam sauce that follows as well as the poulet fermier jaune, mushrooms, cabbage and bagna càuda will truly blow your mind. Texturally playful and a symphony of contrasting flavours are statements which can be used to describe the main course dishes.Every ingredient is cooked to perfection and every ingredient fits in a way to complement the rest. Every dish creates a perfect marriage between taste, flavour and aesthetic. Above all, every dish stresses on natural, sustainable food, sourced from local reliable farmers and food producers.

For those with a sweet tooth, Risette will surely not disappoint you. The grapes, ginger, melon sorbet is mind blowing. The coconut tart, white chocolate and citrus mousse and cashew praline sorbet is nothing less. Although not in the tasting menu, the famous Cedric Grolet creation - golden hazelnut, is a true work of art inspired by the work of art an surely worth a try.

The tasting menu is well complemented by a vast selection of high quality local and international wines which surely add to the one of a kind experience Risette offers.

Risette is a true gem worth a try.

It is an impressive combination of concept, ambience and talent that makes it one of the best eateries on the island I ever dined in.

Matthew Wine Director

Starting his career working in his greatgrandfather’s business Ellul Wines and Spirits, a wine and spirit merchant open since 1837, this is where the passion and love for wines started.

In 2014 Matthew developed a family inherited property into Malta’s first luxury boutique hotel in Valletta, today known as CASA ELLUL Small Luxury Hotels of the World, this is where he truly understood hospitality, what it takes and what goes into making guest’s dining experience a memorable one.

Matthew is a wine professional, his knowledge and tasting ability is what compliments the dishes cooked by Steve and David when it comes to wine pairing, directing the team to help the guests making the right choice when choosing a bottle of wine.

Steve Risette’s Head Chef

His culinary career started when he travelled to London to study and train at the world leading culinary school, Le Cordon Bleu. He also got the opportunity to experience the culinary industry at renowned restaurants like Pierre Koffman’s at The Berkley and Luca by Clove Club.

After completing his studies, he remained in London for some time to gain more experience. In Malta, Steve formed part of the initial team at Risette before moving on to other roles.

Since then, Steve has strived to further develop his knowledge and skills. Over the past years, he has travelled to Dublin, Ireland on different occassions for stages with 2 Michelin star chef Mickael Viljanen. First at ‘The Greenhouse’ and then to ‘Chapter One by Mickael Viljaenen’ in 2021. During these experiences, Steve’s inquisitiveness for the culinary world has grown even further.

David Pastry Chef at Risette

Trained at the Institute of Tourism Studies in Malta, which culminated in an internship at the Lanesborough in London. When returning to Malta, he worked in the main and à la carte kitchens at a leading 5-star hotel, before finding his passion for pastry.

Since then, David has continually worked to improve his knowledge and skills, and has attended various international courses and seminars. He also enjoys staying up-to-date on the latest techniques through research. David also formed part of the initial team at Risette, before moving on to the role of Executive Pastry Chef at a leading luxury hotel.

THEART OFCONSI STENCY

It is said that a great restaurant is one that just makes you feel like you’re not sure whether you went out or you came home and confuses you.

If it can do both of those things at the same time, you’re hooked. One80 in Mellieħa surely falls within that category of restaurants.

The place is, modern, chic and with a distinct touch that makes it stand out in the busy local food industry. One80 has that sense of glamour which spells out in the choice of furniture, in the selection of cutlery, in the decor and in the strong presence of glass which gives that unique element of depth and width. Yet the place also offers that feel of coziness you will usually only sense at home. A warm feel that puts you at ease the moment you step into the outlet.

But One80 is more than just about ambience. It is primarily about food. Good food. Truly so, because

One80 is home to an interesting combination of classic dishes with a distinguished Italian kick which you will come across in their “Frittura di Pesce”, “Vitello Tonnato”, “Veal alla Palermitana”. Yet at One80, you can also opt for more bold seasonal dishes such as their sesame crusted Tuna Tataki. The menu also includes a selection of plant based dishes which includes; “Saffron Tabbouleh”, “Scialatelli” and “Babaganoush Samosa”.

For those with a sweet tooth, One80 will surely not disappoint you. Their Affogato and their Vanilla Panna Cotta are surely worth a try.

Every dish creates a perfect marriage between taste, flavour and aesthetic.

Every dish stresses on natural, sustainable food, sourced from local reliable farmers and food producers. Above all, every dish stresses on the gastronomic roots of Chef Andrea with the inclusion of fresh pasta, with the presence of fish based dishes, with the presence of elements that rekindle staple dishes in the Emilia Romagna and Sicilian food trail.

Andrea, a self-thought chef, is bold and energetic. His eyes reflect a strong will to succeed in such a cutthroat industry. On the other hand his smile spells out his bubbly character and joie de vivre. Moreover, his dishes, his philosophy and gastronomic vision convey his strong sense of belonging towards his origins. His origins which are a mixture of food cultures that include his place of birth - Padova, Bologna where he grew up and his parent’s Sicilian background. His gastronomic trail also includes traits of his experience in Brazil. It is no coincidence that the One80 menu is a perfect mixture of fish, pasta and meat. It is no coincidence either that his food philosophy focuses on the principle to, keep it simple, exalt the beauty in every ingredient and above all ensure it tastes amazing. At the heart of every dish he prepares lies a cuisine, which stresses on local genuine fresh ingredients.

Yet a good chef is only half of the equation. Food is not the only reason we go to restaurants – we also go for the atmosphere, company, and because we simply want to have a break from trying our hand at whipping up a meal.

Chef Andrea’s talent in the kitchen is complemented by a very good selection of wines and cocktails. His talent is also complemented by a service very few eateries on the island offer. Quite an achievement when one keeps in mind the current shortage of human resources in the local catering industry.

One80 is indeed a gem worth a try. It is an impressive combination of concept, ambience and talent which makes it one of the best eateries on the island. When driving down to Mellieħa, make sure to slow down, find a parking space close by and try out its tastes and flavours.

Serving mediterranean passion

Serving genuine food made with Italian passion.

Grana Malta is now serving two locations, Gzira and Valletta. The two outlets each offer a different vibe and menu, but both united by a love for Mediterranean cuisine, bringing a friendly environment suitable for families and group of friends at very reasonable prices. Discover an eclectic array of flavours at either location, serving different palates with flavours to satisfy everyone from the most sophisticated to the younger ones.

Grana Valletta offers breakfast, lunch and dinner in the heart of the cityalthough the menu doesn’t include pizza, diners can enjoy some classical Mediterranean favourites with a contemporary twist.

Grana Gzira is open for lunch and dinner, serving pizza with pick-up and delivery options, besides a selection of antipasti and grills, healthy salads and more. Both venues offer versatile menus to suit all tastebuds and dietary requirements, including vegan and vegetarian offerings.

Both venues are open daily, and are located in the heart of their respective location, where the action happens. Check out the menus by visiting www. granamalta.com. Walk-ins are welcome, space permitting, but it’s always best to book ahead as both venues get very busy both on weekdays and weekends.

This festive season, Grana restaurants will offer versatile menus options from their A La Carte to tailormade set menus; follow the restaurant page @granamalta on the social media for more information.

SOTTO

Pinsa, yes, not pizza.

Pinsa is a hand-pressed dough that has been in the Roman culinary tradition for hundreds of years. The name derives from the Latin word ‘pinsere’, which means to push with your fingers: in this case, push the dough with your fingers.

NOW ALSO IN ST JULIAN’S

If you’re looking for a tasty and healthy substitute for your usual pizza, you’ve got to try Sotto Pinsa Romana in St Julian’s.

Maria Grazia Strano

Why is it so healthy?

The way the dough is made is essential to get the unique benefits of Pinsa. The ingredients, and how the dough is rolled and smashed make it easily digestible while being crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside. Since Pinsa is manually made, its dough is extremely sticky because of the high level of hydration (45% more than traditional pizza). This means it can be baked at a low temperature. Finally, the mix of different organic flours used to reach the perfect balance between crunchiness and elasticity, means Pinsa has exceptionally low gluten content. Last but not least, the long cold process of fermentation lets the dough rise. It follows nature’s will, without the obsession to save time.

When you try Pinsa, you won’t get that bloated feeling, simply because it’s a natural product that has been produced with organic flour, which was left fermented for 72 hours. It has low gluten content that tastes great, has no leavening power (so it doesn’t even fill the stomach). In fact, you can eat guilt-free since it doesn’t have the same carbohydrate content as a typical pizza.

Why is it so tasty?

Pinsa served by Sotto, can be topped with classic ingredients such as tomato and mozzarella, mozzarella di bufala or vegetables. It can also be served plain, with extra virgin olive oil and oregano or rosemary. People love Pinsa served with cold cuts such as parma ham, guanciale, porchetta, speck, or mortadella. In short, the variations are endless, and there is surely something for everyone’s taste.

The popularity of Pinsa in Malta

Pinsa’s worldwide rise in popularity has only been recent: in fact, it started just over 15 years ago. Nowadays there are more than 5000 Pinserie all over the world.

In Malta, the success of Pinsa Romana and its modern evolution have a brief history. In 2015 the first “pinseria” opened in Valletta. We can say without doubt that Pinsa in Malta was the brainchild of a Roman entrepreneur: Fausto Soldini. He created the trademark “Sotto Pinseria Romana” and the famous mix of flours whose exact proportions are secret.

Where to find the real Pinsa Romana in Malta

There are six Roman Pinserie by Fausto Soldini and they are located in Valletta, Gzira, Marsaskala and in Luqa, at Level -1 of the Malta International Airport. And now we’ve got a new location in St Julian’s.

Sotto Pinseria St Julian’s: a wonderful experience

You can now eat Pinsa in St Julian’s at Sotto, in the heart of Paceville, which is the main nightlife hub in Malta. The restaurant is a slightly hidden away but the bright side of this is the ease of finding parking, being very close to Pendergardens Public Car Park. The location is beautiful and welcoming: simple but elegant. Wooden furniture, warm colours, soft light and most welcoming of all, the bright smile of the owner. The service, taken care of by Fausto himself and his collaborators, is always professional and courteous, and you feel immediately at ease as soon as you sit at the table.

Sotto St Julian’s it is also ideal for a romantic dinner. Come and join us in St Julian’s where you can now sample the original match of pinsa and champagne, an innovative idea that you simply can’t miss.

The Terrace at Rampila is on the original gun emplacement overlooking the defensive ditch and the entrance to the City of Valletta. The position, completed in 1582, was connected with the Cavalier of St. John and was designed to be pivotal part of the defence of the city against attacks from the land. Together with the Cavalier of St. James, facing from the opposite side of the Bridge, the fortifications commanded the approaches to Valletta.

Today St. John’s Cavalier is the seat of the Embassy of the Sovereign Military Order of Malta while the passage way to the middle wing is where the Rampila Tunnel Restaurant is situated. Alongside the Rampila Wine Bar is what remains of the linking tunnel between the two Cavaliers.

Rampila Restaurant today dedicates itself to an entirely more peaceful purpose of offering the finest of cuisine, wines and hospitality in this historic and iconic location.