Delicious 25

Winter Sweetness

Food, glorious food!

So they sang in the famous film of Oliver Twist. And there is no better time to sing this song. Truly so, because the winter season is that time of the year when food takes its toll in every kitchen be it a restaurant, a hotel, a bakery or a home. The festive season and winter itself are a true celebration of food in its various forms, in its tastes and in its flavours. Wherever it is, whatever it is, it brings a smile, it brings happiness.

Food, glorious food! Wishing you all a Happy Christmas and a Happy new Year.

Publishing Editor Omar Vella | Design Robert Caruana | Printing & Publishing Union Print Co. Ltd | Proof Reading Ramona Vella Cini COVER

Unique, Innovative, Spectacular

It is impressive how Marea continues to offer consistency both in its food and service. Above all, it impresses me the way Marea keeps on offering a product which is unique, innovative and I would dare say also spectacular.

Unique.

Marea is a concept that has been conceived to create a symbiosis between culinary innovation of two cuisines; Mediterranean and Asian. Dine in a unique venue while indulging in creative dishes by our passionate chefs.

Innovative.

Marea’s innovation is unique in its concept, design and delivery of service towards its patrons. It combines constant research and development to always drive innovation in its offerings, bringing forward refreshing and elaborate menus that provide memorable experiences.

Spectacular.

The main focus of the kitchen aims to demonstrate and boast a delicate fusion between the Mediterranean and Asian world. Whether you arriving from Valletta or Sliema with the ferry and stopping right outside our venue, or if you just finished the Esplora journey, Marea is the place to be. The location speaks for itself. From an abandoned vault and marina, to a restored vault and revived promenade.

The place is a true gem blessed by the creative hands of one of Malta’s most talented chefs, Karl Scicluna. His work is simply amazing. It is impressive how his magical hands constantly create incredible dishes which bring together different tastes and flavours. It is impressive how every plate he presents is a true work of art. It is impressive how every dish is a perfect combination of symmetry and precision. Above all, it is impressive the attention he gives to detail.

It is by no coincidence that in a recent review, Marea was recently described as; “ Worth the trip to this wonderful restaurant. A beautiful dining experience and one of the best on the island. Food was amazing, service attentive but relaxed.. The food was well presented, the tastes meticulously structured. The place left us want for more! Great selection of cocktails and wines. Will definitely be back for more.

Thanks for the experience!”

And the winter menu is an opportunity for all food lovers to better understand why Marea is such a good restaurant. The boys in the kitchen have prepared a selection of dishes to die for. All which continue to take their inspiration from Asia, with a focus on Japan – sushi, sashimi, tempura and also succulent meat dishes, fresh fish, pasta and tapas. All made with seasonal, local produce and stylishly presented.

Marea is indeed a celebration of food which reaches its epitome during this time of the year. The choice of food prepared at Marea is simply amazing and worth to enjoy with your loved ones. Booking is certainly a must so as to avoid any unnecessary disappointments.

Michelin-starred restaurant

ORO in Venice reopens with chef

CANELLA after him leaving Noma

RICARDO

A kilo of lightness and goodness, prepared with sourdough starter and left to rest for seventytwo hours, Ciccio Sultano, Fabrizio Fiorani and Giuseppe Cannistrà’s panettoni are without preservatives or additives. A soft and natural product with a shelf life of 35 days from the production date, it is the perfect finale for a family celebration or a tasty gift for every hour of the day. It is available in three editions: the traditional panettone “Sicilia”, the chocolate version and the Panettone Re Moro limited edition (treasured inside a precious lithographed, green, high quality, reusable and recyclable tin box). Moreover, both the traditional and chocolate Panettone can be purchased in combination with Molini del Ponte’s pistachio cream.

And to celebrate even more with the Island’s flavours, there are the Christmas hampers containing baked goods, such as perciasacchi biscuits, tableware, and other goods for a proper Sicilian feast, from Ragusano DOP cheese to Neurone sauce, from Sicilian pork sausage to caponata.

Review on Scala

The man with the hammer treats everything as a nail, the saying goes. Yet this is not the case at Scala, situated in the busy Saqajja steps in Rabat. Every plate in that beautifully decorated eatery is innovative, interesting, amazing and almost none of the main ingredients taste quite like themselves. Every plate in that eatery makes the term “wow’ sound like an understatement because the emphasis made on taste and flavour, the emphasis made on detail, the emphasis made on presentation and precision is something I honestly came across in very few local restaurants.

The place is a true beauty and offers a sweet homely taste evident in the choice of furniture, the classic apertures, the front door and the ambience which is complemented by a modern touch present in the choice of colours, the flooring, the lighting and the furniture.

Impressive, Delicious and Truly Exquisite

Colour is also the theme of every plate prepared at Scala. Indeed, every dish is a game of tastes, colours and shapes where delicate flavours are hijacked by some unseen ingredients which make the magic. Whether it is a starter, a main course or a dessert, every dish highlights the passion, determination and culinary flair of Chef Sheldon Sammut who I consider to be one of the leading culinary talents the island.

Sheldon is young, bold and energetic. His eyes reflect a strong will to succeed in such a cutthroat industry. On the other hand his smile spells out his bubbly character and joie de vivre. Food is that process in his life which saw him shift from working in several leading kitchens, to taking the plunge into entrepreneurship. “I felt it was the right time for me to develop my own project. It was time for me to carve my niche and showcase my work in the industry.” He adds that “Entrepreneurship is an opportunity but also a challenge which forces you to move out of your comfort zone and juggle the kitchen together with other elements including people and money.” Yet this was a challenge he was willing to take and prove all the odds that he will succeed.

Impressive, Delicious and Truly Exquisite

Impressive, Delicious and Truly Exquisite

His cooking is process-intensive and his style may be defined as simple in the ingredients chosen, in the emphasis on local produce, in the way every dish is delivered to your table yet at the same time complex in the textures, in the flavours as well as the tastes. A contradiction which Sheldon has the ability to bring together and harmoniously coexist in every plate. A contradiction which makes Sheldon who he is with the reputation he earned in the industry. A contradiction which is evident in Scala’s menu which includes smoked eel and white fish arancina wit spicy mayonnaise, BBQ octopus with soy, yuzu and pickled red cabbage as snacks to start off with and a selection of starters the includes pork Kromesky, with potato rösti, fried egg and Béarnaise sauce and Pan-fried rabbit liver with sourdough bread, sweet harissa and sunflower seeds. The selection of main courses is also a true beauty with a selection to die for that includes, braised local pork cheeks with confer onion, ‘nduja polenta and vin jaune and smoked veal rump with endive, garden parsley and Bagna Cauda. Ah! And for all those with a sweet tooth, they will surely not be disappointed. A classic tiramisu with coffee crunch and cocoa nibs and Almond and Medjool date frangipane are what to expect at the end of every meal at Scala.

It would be unfair to conclude any review on Scala without mentioning the bar. There may be more bartending skill and talent at Scala than at any other restaurant on the island with a lineup of cocktails that make any food experience a memorable one.

Scala is a true breath of fresh air for the local food industry with its food, its ambience. It is a place with so much to offer and I feel the best is yet to come because Sheldon is a true talent with the ability to take Scala to a level very few eateries on the island can.

Impressive, Delicious and Truly Exquisite

Impressive,

Impressive, Delicious and Truly Exquisite

Impressive, Delicious and Truly Exquisite

ANDREW WONG

Andrew Wong is a chef, anthropologist and cultural observer. British born of Chinese heritage, his environment and nurture have had an equal impact. The marriage of both, combined with a solid academic background, has led to a cooking style that has one foot placed firmly in the future and the other inspired by the past.

Born and brought up in London, Andrew has been immersed in the world of restaurants since childhood. His grandfather, who moved to London as a Chinese refugee, owned a restaurant in Chinatown, and his father was the first Chinese publican in the UK. In 1985, his parents opened a Cantonese restaurant in Pimlico, now the present location of his restaurant A. Wong.

After leaving school, he was encouraged to pursue a more academic route. He first studied chemistry at Oxford University, then social anthropology at the London School of Economics. However, the pull of the restaurant never left him, and at the age of 22, he returned home, determined to assist with and build on the family business.

Unsurprisingly, a course at culinary school was to follow where technique, craft and professional skills were quickly mastered. Then, and more significantly, a working tour of China. The trip ignited a burning curiosity in not just exploring the vast cultural and regional differences that have come to define the gastronomic identity of China, but also opened his eyes to the beauty of China’s 3000year history first- hand. It inspired newfound respect for the local and ceremonial aspects of Chinese culinary heritage and began the formation of ideas for his own approach to cooking. The trip, while extensive, only proved to highlight the remarkable journey of learning ahead.

Back home, his research continued. Andrew’s natural curiosity and analytical thinking further explored the subtle nuances and complex combinations of flavours and textures in historical and traditional Chinese gastronomy. Adapting his skill and technique, he created his own dishes and realised he needed to open his own restaurant. The restaurant would also have to translate to an international and cosmopolitan city like London, which included an established Chinese diaspora. In 2012 he opened A. Wong with his wife Nathalie – the “A” paying homage to his parents, Albert and Annie. As these thought processes expanded, he started to look further afield.

ANDREW WONG

In 2014 he met with Dr Mukta Das a food anthropologist and graduate of Chinese and Indian History from SOAS (School of Oriental and African Studies). While Mukta worked towards her doctorate, Andrew pushed ahead with the restaurant. He released his debut book A. Wong: The Cookbook, in 2015, and was awarded a Michelin star in 2017, along with a chef consultancy in 2018 at Baoshuan restaurant within the 5* Oberoi Hotel in New Delhi.

Their symbiotic relationship continued, exploring Chinese food history, recipes, ingredients and researching the impact of the Silk Route on the international culinary trade. Their research has since extended to include poetry, art, literature and even academic texts from historical dynasties.

The information they have collated has inspired the development of new dishes and ideas and theories surrounding the evolution of Chinese cuisine and culture. In 2021, they joined efforts again to produce a podcast series titled XO Soused, a fortnightly audio newsletter in which they discuss techniques and dishes from a professional Chinese kitchen as well as their own history and cultural setting.

ANDREW WONG

In May 2020, Andrew became an official Research Associate at SOAS Food Studies Centre. This latest research path has led him to uncover a more multifaceted approach, not just of history or culture, but the influences of people: China’s booming urbanisation and the impact of the wider global Chinese community. All are contributing to his continuing journey into this incredibly rich culinary landscape. He received further recognition in January 2021, when A. Wong was awarded a second Michelin star, making it the first Chinese restaurant outside Asia to achieve this honour.

Despite the global pandemic, with numerous lockdowns impacting the UK and the hospitality industry, Andrew continued his ascent, winning two national awards, including Chef of the Year at the National Restaurant Awards and the Chef Award at The Cateys, voted for by an academy of chefs and food experts. In September of the same year, he joined graduating students from Westminster Kingsway College, where he collected an Honorary Fellowship, adding to his list of awards and industry credentials.

Chef Andrew Wong’s cuisine has always been an intuitive expression of tradition, authenticity and craft. He garners inspiration from the work of past ancestors and present masters with equal respect, celebrating their truest form with a fresh perspective and subtle innovation. He is looking forward to discovering the possible future of Chinese gastronomy and its potential as it evolves.

ANDREW WONG

Two Michelin starred A. Wong is the home to the award-winning cuisine of Chef Andrew Wong. One of the most exciting chefs in the capital, Andrew’s years of meticulous research has created a cuisine that celebrates the diversity of China’s vast food culture held within its 14 national borders.

A true craftsman, his dishes are contemporary and artistic interpretations of traditional dishes and ancient recipes, paying homage to authentic tastes and flavours and the dedicated skill and applied techniques developed throughout Chinese culinary history. With a number of the A. Wong dishes presented for diners to apportion, menus endeavour to encapsulate the importance of sharing - the essence of Chinese dining culture.

ANDREW WONG

Using select Chinese and British produce and ingredients, menus are created to celebrate his own pride in China’s gastronomic heritage and the myriad flavours found within this vast country. This is showcased in the restaurant’s menus, from its acclaimed dim sum lunches to the à la carte dinner through to the ultimate 13-course ‘Taste of China’ menu, where each dish is inspired by a specific region of the country.

A. Wong is situated in Pimlico, a five-minute walk from London’s bustling Victoria Station. The comfortable restaurant interiors are based on a modern pallet of jade green and vibrant red, with mirror and wood panelling, plush seating and exposed wood floors.

FORBIDDEN CITY BAR

Named after the opulent Imperial Palace in the heart of Beijing, the Forbidden City Bar inside A. Wong transports guests to a nighttime oriental oasis, an informal and atmospheric lounge space hidden beneath the A. Wong dining room.

Designed by Terry Kuet of the Hong Kongbased Forbidden City design company, the room’s silk cushions, decorative Chinese screens and ornamental lamps line the room, providing guests with a tranquil and cosy candlelit space to enjoy pre-dinner drinks or snacks below the hubbub of the main restaurant.

Forbidden City Bar is perfect for informal gatherings or special occasions, the room provides a vibrant space for private events.

ALESSANDRO COZZOLINO

At Ristorante La Loggia

ALESSANDRO COZZOLINO at Ristorante La Loggia Florence

Chef Alessandro Cozzolino was born and raised in the southern town of Caserta in the flat agricultural plains of Campania, 32 kilometres north of Naples. Like many young Italians, his earliest cooking influences came from home, watching and learning from his mother and grandmother. He absorbed their values in that kitchen: respect for ingredients and produce and cooking to demonstrate love towards family and friends.

By age 14 and armed with a solid foundational set of skills, he set out to gain experience in a professional kitchen, working in his free time from school in the kitchens of a restaurant in Naples. Hooked by the world of cooking, Alessandro followed his dream to become a chef (against his parents’ wishes) and enrolled in a five-year course at culinary school in Cassino, a city close to Rome.

Alessandro’s focus after graduating in 2007 was to challenge his knowledge and hone his craft at Michelin level. His evident talent earned him his first internship at 3-Michelin star, Le Cimes, in San Bonnet le Froid in France under Chef Regis Marcon. The attention to every detail and the precision in execution he learned there proved an invaluable lesson as he embarked on his career. His second internship began the following year at 2-Michelin star Restaurant Chez Dominique, in Helsinki, under Chef Hans Valimaky, where in 2009, the restaurant was voted 21st in the ‘World’s 50 Best Restaurant Awards.

That same year, he returned to Italy, but this time to the mountains in the north and the region of South Tyrolean Dolomites, where he spent the following two years. His first was to the town of Selva Val Gardena and the 1 Michelin-starred restaurant of the Alpenroyal Grand Hotel, before a year under Chef Norbert Niederkofler at 3 Michelin-starred Restaurant St Hubertus in Hotel Rosa Alpina in the village of San Cassiano.

By now, he had progressed through the ranks and gained experience in all sections of the kitchen. A brief time was to follow under Chef Gaetano Trovato at 2 starred Ristorante Arnolfo in Colle di Val D’Elsa in Tuscany, who embedded elegance and perseverance into Alessandro’s foundation of respect and dedication, and also instilled a self-awareness and understanding of his journey. By the time he had returned home to Naples, working at 2-starred Il Mosaico in Ischia with Nino di Costanzo, he had decided to explore opportunities in SE Asia – a long-held ambition after visiting a few years previously.

In 2015 Alessandro left Europe to take up the position of Chef de Cuisine at the legendary Grissini restaurant in the Grand Hyatt Hotel on Hong Kong Island. At just 25 years old, this was to prove the opportunity of a lifetime and became his biggest adventure. Not only was it the space where he could shape the menus himself, but also an environment where he developed a broader view of cooking and one where he could share his creativity. Using his own experience - coupled with an innate palatehe passed on the skills he had learned, sharing his understanding of the finest Italian produce and its taste and flavour. During his five years at Grissini, Alessandro was awarded “Chef of the Year” in 2017 by Gambero Rosso.

In 2019, Alessandro moved back to Italy to take up the executive chef position at La Loggia at Villa San Michele, A Belmond Hotel Florence. Here he has created a culinary reflection on Florence’s culture and history. With almost 19 years of skilled experience behind him, Alessandro brings authenticity and knowledge to the menus at La Loggia, where each dish is a carefully-crafted feat of gastronomic creativity. La Loggia offers a menu created for guests who wish to indulge in a sense of place, who want to celebrate Italy and Florence and who enjoy a cuisine created to express love and family.

La Loggia is home to the cuisine of Chef Alessandro Cozzolino.

Having worked from Italy to SE Asia and back, his love of home and Italy is expressed in his menu. Elegant expressions of Tuscan land and sea are found in creative, intuitive dishes that celebrate the finest local produce.

Boasting dramatic views over the Renaissance architecture of Florence, La Loggia, which translates as a roofed open gallery, sits at the heart of the historic hilltop Villa San Michele, A Belmond Hotel.

The restaurant hosts eight intimate tables in secluded elegance under lofty, cross-vaulted arches.

The beauty of this historic location harmonises with Alessandro’s sustainable, pioneering cuisine. With a growing reputation as one of the best restaurants in Florence, he has created three menu options that elevate even the simplest ingredients. Dishes such as Fagottino pasta, made with braised beef peposo, ricotta cheese, Chianina IGP beef tartar and fresh seasonal truffle, or Follonica edible flowers adorn courgette curls, served with lemon ash to create the visually delicious Scarpaccia dish. “Flavour is the essence and identity of who I am,” Alessandro asserts. “My wish is to make the simplest things memorable”.

The sommelier team are on hand to lead guests through La Loggia’s wine cellar, which houses the finest Tuscan and Italian wines, as well as a curated selection of international bottles.

ALESSANDRO COZZOLINO | At Ristorante La Loggia | Florence

ALESSANDRO COZZOLINO | At Ristorante La Loggia | Florence

Exceptional, Impressive, Consistent

When you probably either just woke up from a coma and asked who won the 1986 World Cup, or you aren’t a foodie. If you aren’t a foodie, you aren’t going to understand why anyone would drive up to Mellieha for an unforgettable food experience.

Yes, because there is something about Rebekah’s that somehow makes one of my favourite eateries on the island. The ambience, the service and above all the food make the place such a perfect location. I have been dining there quite often and it impresses me how Andrew and his team remain consistent in the product and service they offer.The tastes, the flavours, the detail are always there with always something that will amaze you be it a detail or a taste in a starter, a main course or a dessert.

I feel it all boils down to Andrew’s will to tell a story through his food. Through his ability to take Rebekah’s to another level with his colourful mind packed with concepts that blow your mind. It boils down to his avant-garde philosophy focused on new ways of dismantling traditional precepts of food, bringing experiential dining to the table at times even by being whimsical and fun. Above all, it boils down to his food principle; “the more you keep food simple the more it is appreciated. If you work with a good product you will create a good dish.” It also boils down to a team that ensures consistency in the level of service you will experience every time you will pay a visit at Rebekah’s

Dining at Rebekah’s during the winter period is no exception. It is a busy time at Rebekah’s when the team is preparing various delicacies to entertain their clients with. Indeed every corner of Rebekah’s kitchen is heavy packed with all sorts of ingredients ready to be used to create interesting dishes which perfectly fit this special time of the year. The smell in that part of the outlet is incredible and arouses the taste buds of every living being that passes by Rebekah’s. Every dish is a statement and reaffirms why the restaurant is considered by many food critics as one of the best eateries on the island.

This winter, Rebekah’s offers an interesting selection of dishes which exalt local produce with a French touch and at times, even a slight dose of oriental flavours. This combination can be envisaged in the detail of a starter or as the core ingredient of a main course. Indeed, the attention to detail is incredible. Every plate is pure art which encapsulates the colours of winter and creates a perfect harmony between sweet, sour, salt, bitter and umami. Every dish also has a strong sense of precision with no ingredient left unattended. Every item is in sync so as to create a perfect chorus.

Local fresh tuna sashimi, Crapaudine beetroot and foies gras chicken liver parfait are some of the delicacies to expect for starter which are followed by an interesting selection of meats and fish. And what about their selection of desserts? Andrew’s magical hands create amazing sweet indulgences which are hard to resist. Every dish is accompanied by vast selection of local and foreign wines and an excellent service. Indeed, Rebekah’s is not only about food but also about service delivered by a very good team both in the kitchen and in the restaurant.

Rebekah’s is truly the place to be during the winter season. The food, the concepts, the product and the talent in the kitchen are make any dining experience at Rebekah’s a memorable one.

The Terrace at Rampila is on the original gun emplacement overlooking the defensive ditch and the entrance to the City of Valletta. The position, completed in 1582, was connected with the Cavalier of St. John and was designed to be pivotal part of the defence of the city against attacks from the land. Together with the Cavalier of St. James, facing from the opposite side of the Bridge, the fortifications commanded the approaches to Valletta.

Today St. John’s Cavalier is the seat of the Embassy of the Sovereign Military Order of Malta while the passage way to the middle wing is where the Rampila Tunnel Restaurant is situated. Alongside the Rampila Wine Bar is what remains of the linking tunnel between the two Cavaliers.

Rampila Restaurant today dedicates itself to an entirely more peaceful purpose of offering the finest of cuisine, wines and hospitality in this historic and iconic location.