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TICKETS FOR ALL YOUR

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Summer dining as it should be. Lunch in the sunshine, poolside cocktails, and dinner under the stars. This is summer as it should be, at The Summer Kitchen. Open for Lunch from 12pm to 4pm and for Dinner from 7pm to 10.30pm. Book now by calling 2544 2738 or email us on tsk.palace@corinthia.com

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July 2019

Food For Printing & Publishing: Union Print Co. Ltd, Workers' Memorial Building, 3rd Floor, South Street, Valletta +356 2590 0200 Editor: Omar Vella

What good is the warmth of summer, without the cold of winter to give it sweetness. John Steinbeck

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Thought T

he much awaited summer is finally back! The sea, the sun and the sand take their toll together with an abundance of summer food. Indeed, it is that time of the year when peaches, melons, green leafy vegetables and mint are the perfect ingredients for a great summer meal. And what about BBQs? We all long for one with our loved ones. No meal would serve its purpose without some chilled beer or wine. For those on a non alcoholic diet, lemonades and slushes are at their best. The beauty of summer could not be seen from better eyes than those of local talent in the food industry and giants in the international culinary world such as JesuĚ s Escalera, Alexandre Couillon, Martin Berasategui, Eugenio Jacques Christiaan Boer, Ernst Knam and Olga Noskova. Each chef shares with us how summer fits into their kitchen and what it brings to the table. We wish you all a pleasant read and a great summer!

While we make every effort to make sure that the content of Delicious is correct, we cannot take any responsibility nor be held accountable for any factual errors printed. July 2019

July 2019

12 Olga Noskova 20 Ernst Knam 28 Martin Berasategui 34 Luke Camilleri 38 Marko Pavlovic &

Mirror Mirror on the Cake A Matter of Taste

The Pursuit of Innovation A Hunger to Succeed

Having A Great Team

Chef Robert Bonello

42 Jesuďż˝s Escalera 62 Shawn Zammit

Leading a Sweet Revolution Chocolate on my Mind

76 Vincenzo Florio 86 Alexandre Couillon 92 Eugenio Jacques Christiaan Boer 100 Thomas Sapiano 110 John Hennequin 114 Jonathan Brincat 120 JP Debono The Secret for a Perfect Pizza is in the Dough

The Art of Cooking

Bringing Art into the Kitchen Creating Something Special An Eye for Detail

Something out of this World

A Taste of Something Different

July 2019 Credit: Brian Grech/Noni 9

July 2019

Credit: Moises Torne/elBarri

July 2019

are

s t e r c e s some s r e h t o n a h t r tastie

Food Ltd

July 2019 13 facebook.com/attardcofood

MirrorrorriM ON THE

CAKE

Interview with

Olga

Noskova Cake-Blogger and Art Confectioner

lga Noskova is considered by many food critics as the wizard of mirror cakes. lndeed, her cakes are so gorgeous, so shiny and so original. No wonder,The Independent UK recently noted that the glazing on her cakes is “so perfect it’s borderline pornographic.” When asked what lies behind her secret glaze, Olga answers with a smile and notes that it's all about skill but most importantly “your soul, your freedom of thought , creativity, courage, the desire to make beautiful!” With 600K+ Instagram fans, she is one of the most followed pastry chefs in the food industry. Olga recently shared with Delicious her journey in the world of confectionery, the secret behind her amazing mirror cake glazing and her plans for the future.

July 2019

What motivates the economist to switch to the world of confectionery?

You are often defined by food criticis as the wizard of mirror glaze. Why?

First of all pregnancy! It completely changed my world - my feelings, values, preferences, emotional world. I came into the world of cooking when I was on maternity leave. It happens to a lot of ladies, and it didn’t pass me by. I was wondering to create, to try new things, to turn everything upside down! I felt an almost physical desire to do something that I and other people would enjoy. I started studying. I thank the universe that the persons who became my teachers not only taught me how to cook desserts, but also lit up in me an even greater passion for cooking.

You know, I cook different desserts, for example I started with macarons - and they are good enough, really! But it was the glaze that lit me up, opened me a new world of endless creativity and beauty. The glaze has not only established me as a cook but it also became for me a means of expression. It’s like clay for a sculptor or paint for an artist - I know how to handle the glaze and I feel the glaze. I don’t just glaze the cake, I paint! Each of my cake is a new work of art, I always try new techniques, new combinations of colours and textures, every time making something new! So the glaze and myself make a very good tandem!

July 2019

OLGA NOSKOVA

You have more than 600,000 followers on Instagram. What does Instagram and other social media platforms mean to you?

My success today is not the limit. Tomorrow will be a new, even more interesting, even more cool success!

Oh, much! I became known to the world through social networks. I run my business through social media. My friends, customers, partners and fans can always easily write to me and get feedback. The Internet has simplified a lot - for life, for work. And I even get inspiration from some accounts - about nature, about space, about new computer technologies - you never know where you’ll find inspiration. But look everywhere. And social networks make this search easier and more enjoyable.

You often defined your work as “pure art”. Can you elaborate? Art is not only a skill, but also creativity! This is beauty, uniqueness, deep meaning and a flurry of emotions, which is experienced by both the one who creates and the one who then sees and tries it. My work is both art and confectionery. For me they are inseparable. I’m not just a pastry chef, I create each of my cakes as a painting artist, as a sculpture sculptor, as a novel writer... cake for me is a canvas, and clay, and music book ...Every cake is a story. This is my soul, my emotions, my work, of course.

Where do you find inspiration to develop such amazing colours and flavours? Everywhere! Every day, when I go to the kindergarten for my son, or buy fruit in the store, or go for a walk in the park, I always see sketches, themes, stories and combinations of colours, flavours, feelings - all of this I reproduce in my job, I will create a dessert. Of course, music, painting, choreography ignites my passion, create images in my head. I also like to read books about space and nature - it is always fascinating and there you can see the most incredible combinations of colours and textures. And the most important inspiration for me is the pleasure I give to those people for whom I cook. Dessert is a lot of pleasures at the same time: to watch, to feel the aroma and most importantly - to eat it. July 2019

OLGA NOSKOVA

What is the secret of mirror glaze?

A FRESH & DELICIOUS MENU IN AN IDYLLIC SETTING.

Skill and technical skills are important. But most importantly, still - your soul, your freedom of thought, creativity, courage, the desire to make beautiful!

You often refer to the power of the Universe. What does this mean for you? I believe in destiny! Every person in this world has his own way, and it is worth to enter it as everything becomes easy and clear, pleasant and joyful: there will be nice and beloved people near you, work will bring pleasure and satisfaction, every day will bring joy. Finding your way is not easy, but if you trust the Universe, the signs of fate, your flair and impulses of the heart - you can do it. For example, I received a degree in Economics and had a career in economics for a while, but in one day everything changed, and I do not regret it! I found my destiny, I found my life’s work, and I’m happy.

E GALLE

Is summer represented in some way in your work? What colours would you use to represent summer?

TA U R A N

THE GALLEY

Summer is seasonal fruits and berries, it’s bright colours, it’s holidays, fun, it’s the taste of vanilla ice cream and cotton candy!. We Russians often say, that summer is a short season. Such cakes I want to cook in the summer - bright, juicy, with lots of colours and flavours.

R E S TAU R A N T

Premium meats, seasonal seafood, pastas, pizza or just a light snack, the Galley bar & restaurant welcomes guests to a light lunch or dine in style on our spectacular terrace on the water’s edge. Fully stocked bar with a good selection of wines, spirits and cocktails and easy parking. Ta’ Xbiex Seafront, Ta’ Xbiex. T: [+356] 7931 8801 E: reservations@thegalleytaxbiex.com W: thegalleytaxbiex.com

What’s next? Next - my online culinarily school, which I am now actively preparing; then a new cooking show. Further new ideas, new tastes, new technique, new skill, new education. Not a single day passes for me without new ideas, plans, communication with interesting people. My success today is not the limit. Tomorrow will be a new, even more interesting, even more cool success!

July 2019

PORK

belly

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

Pork belly Cherry tomato Cracked hazelnuts Spring onions

Pork belly preparation day before

Side dish Marrows Green pepper Yellow pepper Red pepper Aubergine Potatoes

Carrot and cinnamon purée Carrots peeled Butter Cinnamon Salt and Pepper

■ Lay the pork belly side up in a metal dish with parchment paper underneath. Scatter the cherry tomatoes, cracked hazelnuts and spring onions on top. Wrap in aluminium foil and cook for 3 hours at 150°C. Once cooked (the pork should be tender) remove from the oven and leave to cool. Store in the refrigerator overnight as it will give a greater depth of flavour. Cut meat into equal portions, place in a heavy based pan skin side down and bake in the oven for 20 to 30 minutes until crust is firm and crispy. ■ Heat the grill to medium-high heat. Slice the vegetables lenghtwise except the potatoes. Drizzle with olive oil, salt and pepper and put under the grill for about 15 minutes. Cut the potatoes in thick slices and boil for 10 to º12 minutes. Remove and place in a non stick frying pan, drizzle with olive oil, put a knob of butter and cook both sides until brown and crispy. ■ Boil the carrots until soft and mash with some butter. Sprinkle with a little cinnamon on top and season with salt and pepper. July 2019

July 2019

MATTER of Taste Interview with

Ernst

Knam, Pastry Chef

You have to love the profession of being a chef. You need to be a little crazy if you want to keep moving forward because you always know when tomorrow begins, but never when it will end.

Credits: Francesco Mion

rnst Knam is German and was born in 1963. He chose Italy as his next home to unleash all his genius as a pastrychef, a vocation discovered thanks to his mother, considering that his father would have liked him to become a florist so that he could take over the family flower shop. His mother on the other hand wanted a son capable of making her delicious cakes every Sunday. His first experience dates back to 1986, with a long series of starred restaurants in Germany, Scotland, Switzerland and England, before arriving in Milan and at Gualtiero Marchesi in 1989. Three years at Divino and in 1992 he opened the twowindowed venue in Porta Vittoria which, 27 years later, is still the home of absolute mouth-wateringly sugary perdition: Pasticceria Ernst Knam, where that adjective, antique, shouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be considered as synonymous with old, stale, mouldy. Antique in the sense of the millenary art of making, thinking of moulding cakes, biscuits, creams, ice-creams and desserts. Antique is the method, the habit to delight our palates and those of our friends, guests, relatives and loved ones, but the art is always alive, capable of renewal.

July 2019

Tell us about your mother's influence on your career path. My mum was very important for my career, she has been the first one I have seen baking delicious cookies for years through my childhood and she was the first one suggesting pastry as a career choice. When I was deciding what to do after high school she told me “what about a trainee in pastry? You will learn a job and we will have a brand new cake on the table every Sunday”. How could you say no to this?

What brought you to Italy way back in 1989? After the pastry training in Germany, I worked in big starred hotel restaurants in England, Scotland, Switzerland and so on. In my résumé, Italy was missing, and also an experience in a three Michelin star restaurant so I sent my résumés here in Italy with this objective in mind. Then I received a call from Gualtiero Marchesi.

July 2019

How has your experience working with Gualtiero Marchesi helped you develop further your culinary skills? Marchesi taught me a culinary philosophy. He was a genius, he made a revolution in the Italian high cuisine world, and he was awarded worldwide for his dishes. He was the last step for my career before starting my own business in Milan, via Anfossi 10, where my pastry shop is still standing now after 27 years.

In a recent interview, you also noted, “You need to be a little crazy if you want to keep moving forward because you always know when tomorrow begins, but never when it will end”. Why? Pastry, such as a lot of other things in life, is constantly changing and moving. If you want to be the best in your field you cannot allow yourself to stay still, you have to keep pushing and going forward. And to keep creating and innovating, let’s be honest, you have to be a little crazy.

ERNST KNAM

What does chocolate mean to you? Chocolate is the main ingredient of my pastry concept. We do 40 types of chocolate pralines and several cakes with it, we make sculptures, and we also use it for some savoury dishes. It’s a fantastic ingredient, it can be tasted and sensed with all the five senses, in different, but always unique ways.

How does summer change your mood in the kitchen? During summer we use more fruits and we “play” more with fruits pairing and seasonal fruits. The purpose is to give to the customer something with chocolate (and also other ingredients) that can be at the same time fresh and associated with summer.

Any projects for the future? I always say I don’t make plans, I realize them. I have a lot of ideas, I never stop creating. Right now we are shooting our Christmas catalogue and planning an event about chocolate here in Milan in October… stay tuned through my Instagram page @ernstknam for everything is going on.

July 2019

IGT Maltese Islands Appreciating the fine taste

Wines of Distinction DOK Malta â&#x20AC;˘ DOK Gozo IGT Maltese Islands 26

dokmaltadokgozo July 2019 dokmaltadokgozo.gov.mt

Brought to you by

Wine

as an expression of its Territory

Winemakers nowadays strive at creating a sense of singularity within their wines. Thus, the link to their territory, or as commonly referred to in French terroir is at the very heart of a winemakerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vision and objective in portraying his wine as conveying part of the heritage of a particular region or town. Quality wines are typical products identifiable by quality labels which are not only intended to protect their identity but also serve to link them to specific territories. Labels attributed to quality wines serve as a guarantee to consumers in linking specific wines to well-identified regions. Such labels (in the case of Malta a banderol) are based on strict regulations which ensure the link between the wine and the region in which grapes are produced and harvested and wine is fermented and produced.

July 2019

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July 2019

DOK MALTA - DOK GOZO

Concept of Terroir The concept of terroir (the French word for territory) was born in France and is meant to include not only the geographical borders of a particular region but include farming practices, the vineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s specific habitat like soil and climate and other environmental factors that all have a direct effect on the grapes to be harvested. It was over a long period of centuries that winemakers in Italy and France (Italy has been producing its different wines ever since the time of the Roman Empire) have developed their vines according to the diverse climatic, atmospheric and environmental conditions of their particular regions. This has led the same winemakers to be in a position to develop different wines depending on the specific qualities of the grapes themselves as well as to the fermentation and maturing techniques which were developed in their particular regions. The world of quality wines was slowly developing into what we consumers have the possibility to enjoy nowadays â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a quality wine which provides a unique experience as distinct and diverse from another quality wine coming from a different region. The traditional way of linking wine to a particular region or area was always based on a scientific explanation which valorised the edaphic and atmospheric conditions of the grapes being grown within that particular territory. This has led Member States within the EU especially France and Italy to legislate extensively in order to protect those areas which were traditionally renowned for wine production. The original concept of terroir actually led to the creation of EU quality wines with the wines being engrained in particular territories applying for protection under the PDO and PGI system which was originally started mainly in France and Italy. Over the years regions and towns mainly over France and Italy (but not only) have become known to consumers. Such is the

case of small towns like Barolo, in Piedmont Italy and Chablis, in France. More famous cases are for the region of Champagne in France and to a more limited extent Franciacorta in Italy. Other regions such as Burgundy have not only become known to consumers because of their wines but have also given a specific denomination to a specific hue of the colour red.

Wine Tourism In countries like Italy, the link between wines and their territory becomes more obvious due to the development of wine tourism. This is quite simple for regions which present a long history wherein wineries often link their wines to specific events in time and to climatic and atmospheric events which nowadays contribute in a substantial manner to the uniqueness of their wines. Such factors might include volcanic nature of the soil, the presence of salty atmosphere in vineyards close to the coastline, particular temperature and micro-climates within specific regions such as mountainous regions and other factors which all result in giving a particular nature of the grapes. Other factors include also the manner in which wines are stored and matured which often also depended, especially in the past, on climatic and geographical considerations such as temperature and humidity. Various wineries have developed wine trails which include not only guided visits to their production facilities, cellars and vineyards. This has helped in getting small remote villages to be placed on the tourist maps where visitors are offered the possibility of tasting wines coupled with typical food products. Finally, it is important to keep in mind that a strong territorial link is important for each and every quality wine but this is not enough to ensure the success of a particular wine. The care, love and attention provided by farmers, wineries and their enologists in the production of particular wines coupled to the marketing by regional authorities is the secret for true success for every quality wine. July 2019

The

PURSUIT of Innovation

Credits: Jose Luis Lopez de Zubiria

July 2019

Interview with

Martin Berasategui

artin Berasategui is a genius, a wizard and above all, a true legend. I recently read “Garrote!” is an expression that defines the Basque chef who has spread the Martín Berasategui label around his prestigious restaurants throughout the world. Despite his 10 Michelin stars and 9 Repsol Guide Suns scattered across his numerous restaurants in Spain, 18 prestigious Diamonds in his restaurants in South America, and many other awards, food critics are impressed by his simplicity, his talent and love for his hometown, San Sebastián. Martin’s cuisine is very innovative, but less conceptual than cuisine of some other Spanish chefs. He is great on technique and highly respected by his colleagues and food opinion leaders. Chef Berasategui shared with Delicious his journey in the world of food, his style and his sources of inspiration.

July 2019

You have often noted that you wish people to remember you as "a good cook and an even better person". How come? I have not changed anything since I was a child, I'm still the same "Martintxo" that was lost in the streets of the Old Town of San Sebastian. I am the best I can be as a professional, but I continue with the same ways that my parents instilled in me. Because above all, what I value most are people.

What makes you the closest example to the Robuchon model in Spain? I would prefer to distance myself from comparing myself with an eminence as was Robuchon. My style resembles our way of living gastronomy and the business model. In Spain I have been a pioneer in directing so many restaurants and getting 10 Michelin Stars distributed in 5 restaurants, for the moment.

What is your food philosophy? For me the kitchen is nonconformity, if you put a ceiling, you die. I'm not good with things going well, I'm always looking for excellence. My philosophy is to try to work today better than yesterday, tomorrow better than today and the day after tomorrow better than tomorrow.

What lessons have you learnt from the industry over the past decades? I have learnt and I continue to learn every day. Perhaps, the most important thing I learnt was the rigor and accuracy of the French in their pastry recipes. I applied that exactitude also in the salty kitchen, and there is no better way to get a regularity in all your recipes. Training has helped me a lot. I write everything down to obsession. They know exactly what I want to do.

July 2019

MARTIN BERASATEGUI

July 2019

Can you share with us the story of your restaurant? How did it all start? We go back 30 years ago. When Alejandro received the first Michelin Star in the Bodegรณn, my wife, Oneka, and I started looking at different locations with the idea of opening a new restaurant with a very different cut. My in-laws lived in a hamlet with land in the town of Lasarte-Oria but we thought it would not be easy to adapt it to a restaurant. We looked at different places, but that was when the mayor of Lasarte-Oria came to eat at Bodegรณn Alejandro and told me that being the family of my wife from Lasarte-Oria, how we were going to go to another place to set up the restaurant. The people were very interested in the project and they always supported me blindly. On May 1, 1993, the Martin Berasategui Restaurant was inaugurated. The first Michelin Star arrived in the opening months, the second in November 1996 and the highest rating in the Red Guide, 3 Michelin Stars in November 2001.

July 2019

I try to work today better than yesterday, tomorrow better than today and the day after tomorrow better than tomorrow.

MARTIN BERASATEGUI

In a recent interview you noted that some of your dishes made a mark not because they were the best, but because of what they represented. Why? I say this because I remember the first dish I made with my mother and my aunt: a garlic soup. Surely it was not very good, but I was 15 years old and I remember the illusion that I put in following the advice that they gave me. I mean the moments of each dish are very important.

What inspires you when youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re cooking? Anything can inspire you, a trip to the sea, a trip on an aeroplane, a chat with friends, a consultation of a book. But then it's working and more work to set the kitchen in the bottom of the pot. Creativity is a consequence of work, uniting those ideas that haunt your head, working them to end up being a creative good. And originality must always be justified.

Does summer fit in any way in your kitchen? The kitchen has no borders, but it must have roots, and ours are in our land, in our farmers and horticulturists, in our fishermen. Temporality is another of the main factors that our cuisine has a major importance. What's more, without the concept of temporality, I could not understand my kitchen.

Any projects in the pipeline? In principle, we have a new project on the island of Mallorca for next year 2020. I can not say much more because I always talk about my projects when they are well settled. What I can assure you is that we are very motivated and will continue working.

July 2019

HUNGER to Succeed

July 2019

Interview with

Luke Camilleri, Chef at Charles Grech Bistro

What attracted you to the world of food? After finishing school at the age of 16, I entered the culinary industry working as a dishwasher at the Corinthia Marina Hotel. After some months there, I was attracted to cooking and felt a keen interest to know more about the profession. I used to help in the kitchen and every task I was entrusted with, irrespective of whether it was peeling potatoes or something more demanding, I fell more in love with the world of cooking.

How would you define your style?

oung, bold and with a will to succeed. That is a perfect way to describe the talented Chef Luke

Camilleri. His journey in the world of food started the tough way, yet thanks to his strong determination, he slowly found his way into the industry and today leads the busy kitchen of Charles Grech Bistro. Delicious recently met Luke who shared with us his views on the industry, his style and his plans for the future.

I would say it is a classic style. That in mind my style evolves around the ingredients I have in hand. I try to respect every ingredient the way it deserves to be treated, whether it is a simple asparagus or a prime cut of beef. I strongly favour simple food which is genuine, honest and cooked with love. The star of the dish is always the main ingredients (were possible local) on the plate.

Who's been the greatest inspiration in your cooking? I had a few people around me who I always looked up to. On the local front, I would certainly have to mention Nicky Vella head chef at the Corinthia Marina who always pushed me to do better and was my mentor in the early years of my career. I would also certainly have to mention Mr Jonathan Pace, the current general manager at the Corinthia in St Petersburg who also gave me opportunities to grow. I also have to mention Timmy Grech director at Charles Grech, where although heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not a chef, he has great knowledge of food. He has some great ideas about the restaurant business and he is always there to motivate me. On the international front, there are quite a number of chefs that inspire me a lot when reading about their life especially Marco Pierre White.

July 2019

Why is it important for a chef to develop his own style? You get influenced by the people around you, but at some stage you need to develop your own style, and develop it in a way that you refine your style all the time. Having a style as chef is very important. It defines you as a chef. But more importantly it makes you connect with your dinerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s through the food.

How would you describe the food you serve at Charles Grech? Genuine, honest and prepared with love.

What are your favourite local ingredients to work with? Local produce is of a very good quality and full of flavours. My favourite local ingredient is certainly pork. You can use it in many different ways and will never let you down. 38

July 2019

LUKE CAMILLERI

In what way does the summer season exalt your creative mind? In summer we opt for a lighter menu. We use less heavy ingredients and methods of cookings. We go for prime cuts than secondary cuts and replace heavy sauces with vinaigrettes. We use more pan frying and grilling instead of braising. We also opt more for crudo. We do use more fresh fish and shellfish, more salads, and pastas with light sauces. Summer for a chef can be really exciting,

What dishes should we look out for at Charles Grech during the summer season? The menu is a balanced one in a way that should attract various type of customers but the dishes in my opinion which stand out are wild salmon tartar with a hint of spice and poached egg on top. One should also look out for the fresh tuna niâ&#x2C6;&#x2018;oise, which is very popular in this hot weather. As for pasta, we have a selection but we choose to take a classic carbonara and add prawns to it which I believe is a good combination. Then I suggest that apart from the menu, to look at the specials board as in our case it changes regular on daily bases.

On your day off, what are you likely doing? Outside the job I'm not a person who organises that much of my life. Watching a game of football with a pint of beer with friends is a sure way to unwind on an off day. I also do love reading culinary books, biographies or history.

Any plans for the future? I wish to find some time for a stage abroad in leading kitchens to learn different cuisines and techniques. I believe it is of great help in a chef's career. July 2019

HAVING

GREAT

TEAM

Article on Ali Baba

MARKO PAVLOVIC CHEF ROBERT BONELLO

have always considered Ali Baba as one of the best eateries on the island. The taste, the service and the overall

package is always impeccable. It is by no coincidence that the place is so sought after by many locals and foreigners. It is not just a Lebanese restaurant. I would dare say, it is a Lebanese restaurant with a clear local imprint embedded in Hany's longstanding relationship with the island. During a recent catch up over a coffee, Hany admitted "after years of struggle, we are finally able to show our clients that the Lebanese kitchen can evolve and become even more than what people expect." He adds that "Recognition came slowly but it's a blessing in disguise because it gave us time to grow."

July 2019

I feel Ali Baba is like wine; it tastes better with age. I feel the product has improved significantly over the past years especially thanks to Hany's constant experimentation with various local ingredients. Indeed, it is there where I tasted the most exquisite goat meat and pigeon breast. Every dish is prepared in a simple way. Nothing too extravagant or complex but rather good, genuine and which exalts the beauty of local produce. Notwithstanding his reputation in the food industry, Hany remains humble and a pleasant person who will quickly captivate you with his detailed explanation of every dish he has in store for his clients. The success of Ali Baba does not only lie in Hany's drive and talent but also in the work of two key persons namely Marko Pavlovic and Chef Robert Bonello. Marko is Hany's right hand man. He is responsible for the overall management of the outlet. His work is impeccable, always smart and with a signature smile that captivates you the moment you step into the outlet. His deep knowledge on wines and food is simply incredible and will never disappoint you when asked for an advice. I recently asked Marko what key lesson he learnt at Ali Baba over the years. With a smile, he replied; "Patience is the Key, Quality and Consistency are very important. If your consistency is not good it canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t ever happen. If people come today and they expect the same thing tomorrow and you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t deliver, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not going to happen. A customer can forgive you once but not twice. In earlier days, one was a mistake, two was an error and three was a blunder. Nowadays, one is a mistake and two is a blunder. Customer has choices, so they can make or break the business."

July 2019

A former mechanical engineer student, Marko shifted his career towards the food industry. Marko has the love and passion for his job and that’s what made him become the person he is today. Marko learnt the hard way, yet was determined to succeed and today plays a key role in the success of Ali Baba. On the other hand, Chef Robert Bonello started his journey at Ali Baba as a student. He left Ali Baba for two years during which he had several stints in leading local and foreign hotels, restaurants and airlines companies to increase his knowledge. He also worked in Australia for one year. Chef Robert Bonello is now back at Ali Baba as a senior Sous chef. He looks forward to work hand in hand with chef Patron Hany Harb to modernize the Lebanese kitchen. His motto in the kitchen is quite simple, “Creativity in the kitchen requires

July 2019

you to use your intellect. How to make a dish look good, requires intellectual and creative focus and I am a very focused person. I am a hard working, dedicated and opinionated chef. I create my own style and I am proud of it.” Chef Bonello adds; "It is important for any chef to have as many opportunities in the industry. You need to find the right person to work for, who’s going to give you the right opportunities and the right support and Hany is certainly one of those people. He’s very passionate about young people and the industry and he gave me a lot of opportunities. I am so excited to work with him!" With such a team, Ali Baba has certainly raised its bar and is the place to pay a visit or two with friends or your loved ones. Whilst driving through Gÿira make sure to remember the name, Ali Baba and stop by to reserve your table.

ALI BABA

July 2019

esús Escalera is the new hot name in the pastry world. He is regarded by many as a true genius and a revolutionary who has taken the industry by a storm with his "sweet culture". A strong believer in the principle that "life is not always black and white, it's a million shades of grey," Jesús refutes to define ingredients as either sweet or savoury. Research and reinvention are the keywords for his desserts, made up of different textures and temperatures, incorporating bitter, smoky and salty flavours. Escalera's belief, in fact, is that a middle world is possible between traditional cuisine, dominated by savoury tastes, and pastry, dominated by sugar. Latin America’s Best Pastry Chef 2018, is the force

July 2019

behind a new trend in the pastry world. He has been trying to change conceptions around desserts since he opened his restaurant in 2013 and feels that things are about to change in the pastry world. “In just a few years, there will be a sweet revolution, the same way that there was a revolution in the savoury world a few years ago,” he says. The concept behind this watershed moment in the dessert scene revolves around what Escalera calls ‘the cultural savoury world’. It is interesting to note that Chef Escalera was never interested in bakery and desserts until he was exposed to the sweet creations of Benazuza, transforming his vision and imagining the infinite possibilities of pastry

LEADING A

SWEET REVOLUTION Interview with

Jesús

Escalera, Sweet Concept

cooking. Escalera’s love for blurring the boundaries between food worlds may come from his own education – when he originally started cooking, he wanted to become a head chef, although he says that life seemed to always take him towards pastry chef roles. Originally from Utrera, a city near Seville in southern Spain, Escalera began his career at the age of 14 working at a bakery, but he only started falling in love with the sweet world at the age of 19, when he did a stage at the hotel Hacienda Benazuza, whose gastronomic offer was overseen by legendary Spanish chef Ferran Adrià. Some time after, having acquired the tools needed to continue his career, Jesús traveled to Mexico, where

he joined Rafael Zafra at Benazuza Cancun. The Caribbean was an idyllic destination for Chef Escalera to develop his skills and business ideas, setting the path to adventure into a project that he had been cooking for some time in his head, maybe since the day he fell in love with pastry cooking. Jesús moved to Guadalajara to create a space dedicated to pastries and bakery, a place where you always begin with the dessert and journey into an experience of flavours such place is La Postrería. Delicious had the opportunity to discuss with Chef Escalera his journey in the sweet world, his thoughts on the industry and what the "sweet culture" is all about.

July 2019

GOZO SPECIAL EDITION

9TH & 10TH AUGUST 2019 18:00 ONWARDS XEWKIJA - GOZO

July 2019

JESÚS ESCALERA

Our summer desserts are usually fresher, fruity, citrus, herbaceous and floral since with the high temperatures you will prefer these kind of flavours.

What attracted you to the world of pastry? I was initially not too keen about pastry, in fact it was only by sheer coincidence that I became a pastry chef. I actually hated pastry. I was convinced that pastry was something exact, precise to the millimetre, that if you put two extra grams of something, it wouldn’t work. That suffocated me. I liked to be more intuitive, like in the kitchen. It was only when I started at Hacienda Benazuza – which later became El Bulli Hotel under Adrià where I started making plated desserts. That was what completely changed my idea of sweet cuisine. It’s not that exact – you do have to be consistent, but if you know the ingredients, you can change whatever you want.

Why did you hate pastry? When I started I hated the bakery, I thought that pastry making was something systematic and that overwhelmed me, until I started practicing. The first day I arrived, the chef asked me, what do you prefer sweet or salty? I got so nervous that I said sweet. However, when you discover that in a dessert you can use vegetables or ingredients from the salty world, a very large field opens up.

July 2019

JESÚS ESCALERA

You have often referred to a "sweet revolution" in gastronomy, what is it all about? People think that pepper is savoury and that cinnamon is sweet, both of which are wrong. “For example, cinnamon is bitter. When you start breaking these simple rules, a big stage opens up. Beet, celery, fennel, all of these are sweet ingredients. In Mexico, people think that cilantro is only for tacos. But if you taste it, cilantro has an aniseed flavour, which goes very well with

July 2019

pineapple or honey. It was by breaking down the boundaries between the savoury and sweet worlds that we got to where we are. Looking further than the cultural conceptions around ingredients, we focused on creating flavour combinations that surprise and delight diners, whether they like sugar or not. My father doesn’t eat dessert. For dessert, he wants an espresso, and coffee is bitter. So why don’t we

make a bitter dessert? Other people prefer to have a cheese board for dessert, which has creamy and savoury notes. So that’s what we play with – always with sweet touches, but also with more acidic, bitter, spicy or savoury flavours. I’m not creating anything new, only looking for the logic behind flavours.

You seem to prefer the term ‘sweet world’ or ‘dessert world’, rather than ‘pastry’ as you feel it is too narrow for the task you have undertaken. Tell us more about your task? I believe the term "pastry" is very limited, since generally when you think of pastry you think of cakes or classic elaborations. The sweet world encompasses a wider spectrum which includes pastry, dessert tables, restaurant desserts, chocolate, bakery, ice cream, sugar sculpture and much more.

In what way did you break down the boundaries between the savoury and sweet worlds? I did not break anything, we just questioned what is really sweet or savoury, since we are all culturally influenced. There are vegetables that are sweet and are used in savoury cooking (peas, beetroot, celery, zanahoria, tomato, pumpkin, etc ...) or spices and herbs that are neither sweet nor savoury (mostly bitter) but culturally we focus on the savoury world or sweet world (example, cinnamon is not sweet, vanilla is not sweet, cilantro is not savoury, pepper is not savoury, etc ...) or other products that are neither sweet nor savoury (truffle, olive ...) When we analyze each ingredient based on our palate, we understand that it does not belong to any sweet or savoury group. It is there when it starts to vary and change everything, since when using it in dessert many more ways are opened to try, play and enjoy the sweet with other nuances.

July 2019

JESÚS ESCALERA

Why is it so important to start from the flavours when developing a new dessert? Flavour is the MOST IMPORTANT thing when it comes to cooking and making desserts, but it is not always necessary to start there. We often start from different starting points, such as a landscape of a FOREST and represent it through flavours and aromas (eucalyptus, pine, forest fruits), a HONEYCOMB (honey in textures, rosemary and yuzu), or from an aroma, for example the wood aroma that gives name to our dessert WOODY (smoked chocolate, infusion of oak, nutmeg and toasted pine nuts), or directly a product like CACAO making the most of it (chocolate, cocoa powder, fruit pulp of cocoa, cocoa seed and cocoa shell infusion). In this process, we rely on 3 steps when creating a dessert namely; FLAVOUR, TEXTURE and AESTHETICS. You must always follow these steps and neither can surpass the other.

Tell us about La Flor de Vainilla La Flor de Vainilla is an important milestone in my food journey since it was one of the first desserts that was made in La Postrería and also represents a very symbolic ingredient in pastry and also very Mexican. This dessert is born from vanilla aromas (caramel, whiskey, coffee, licorice, black olive and of course vanilla pod). As we play with a style of plating in which we try to visually represent the flavour, we have made a flower (the vanilla orchid) of yogurt and vanilla wafer, and some coffee pods so that the dessert remembers this product.

What does summer mean to you from a gastronomic point of view?

What should we expect from La Postrería?

Our summer desserts are usually fresher, fruity, citrus, herbaceous and floral, since with the high temperatures you will prefer these kind of flavours, (the most intense flavours such as spices, bitter chocolate, liqueurs, etc, we leave them for autumn/winter).

A place to relax, enjoy a good dessert and various pairing options it offers (coffee from Mexico, wines, infusions, etc ...)

What´s next? After 6 years at La Postrería Restaurant and The Postrería Workshop (a classroom for professionals), we have created SweetConcept, a separate project in which we want to continue spreading knowledge of the sweet world through courses, trainings and consultancies outside Mexico to support other companies such as restaurants, gastronomy schools and hotels among others.

July 2019

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July 2019

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July 2019

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July 2019

RASPBERRY MOUSSE Dulcey Namelaka

July 2019

DAVID VIDAL

Red Glaze 300g water 610g sugar 610g glucose 44g gelatine 610g white chocolate 340g condensed milk 8g red powder colour 2g silver powder colour 300g absolut kristal ■ Start by soaking the gelatine in cold water. Heat the sugar, water, glucose and the powdered colours to 103°C. Squeeze out the excess water from the gelatine and add it to the water mix. Pour the mixture over the chocolate, stir and add the milk and absolut kristal. Blend well and use when at 35°C.

Dulcey Namelaka 1.5 gelatine leaf 100g milk, full fat 10g glucose syrup 200g Dulcey chocolate, melted 188g cream ■ Soak the gelatine in cold water. In a small pot bring the milk and glucose to a boil. Squeeze out the excess water from the gelatine and stir in the milk until dissolved. Place melted chocolate into a bowl and drizzle the milk into it, whisking until smooth.

With a hand blender combine the cream with the chocolate mixture and blend well to ensure mixture is thoroughly amalgamated. Pour into small moulds to use as the interior and freeze. When frozen start with the raspberry mousse.

Raspberry Mousse 300g raspberry purée 125g icing sugar 500g cream 5pcs gelatine leaves ■ Soak the gelatine in a bowl of cold water. Meanwhile whip the cream until soft peaks form making sure it's not over whipped. Whisk in lightly the icing sugar and raspberry purée keeping aside a little of the raspberry purée to mix with the gelatine. In a small pot place in the gelatine, squeezing out all the water from the gelatine and the remainder of the raspberry purée. Heat up gently just until the gelatine has melted and gently whisk into the cream mixture. Fill up the moulds two thirds and place in the dulcey namelaka interior. Continue to fill up if needed with more mousse. Freeze and glaze. Note: Use the extra dough from the sudachi pie to make biscuit bases for your mousses. (see pg54)

July 2019

Tarts

SUDACHI Pie dough 170g butter 100g confectioner’s sugar Pinch of salt 45g almond flour 73g whole eggs 395g flour

Sudachi Curd 720g sudachi purée 540g sugar 200g cold butter 6tbsp corn flour 8 eggs 8 egg yolks

■ Preheat oven to 16°C. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cut the butter into small cubes and place in the bowl. Add the flour, sugar, salt and almond flour and beat until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Add the egg and bring the mix together until it forms a ball. Roll dough to 1/8-inch thickness between two parchment paper, cover in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 20 minutes. Butter small tart moulds and cut dough to fit. Line and trim each mould and freeze for at least 1 hour before baking for about 15 minutes until lightly golden.

■ Place the sudachi purée, corn flour and sugar in a pot and bring to the boil, until the sugar has dissolved. In the meantime, whisk together the eggs with the egg yolks. Chop the butter in to small pieces. When sudachi purée is ready, mix with the eggs mixture. Pour back into the pot and cook to 82°C. When at 82°C mix in the cold butter and pass through a chinois. Place in a piping bag and keep until needed.

Italian Meringue 12 egg whites 900g sugar 300ml water lemon juice ■ Combine sugar and water in a pot and boil to 118°C. Meanwhile, whip the egg whites until soft peaks form and add a couple of drops of lemon juice to stabilize the meringue. When the sugar has reached 118°C, remove from the heat and slowly drizzle the hot syrup to the egg whites. Continue whisking until meringue is cooled down and stiff.

July 2019

DAVID VIDAL

July 2019

STRAWBERRY White Chocolate Verrine Strawberry crémeux 2 egg yolks 1tbsp sugar 125ml milk 125ml cream 145g strawberry purée 1 gelatine

July 2019

■ In a pot, heat up the milk, cream and sugar until the sugar has dissolved. Pour over the egg yolks. Heat up to 82°C. Remove from heat and add the gelatine. Emulsify in the strawberry purée using a hand blender and whisk to a smooth cream.

DAVID VIDAL Opalyse Mousse 500g opalyse white chocolate 200ml milk 3 gelatine 500ml cream ■ Soak the gelatine in cold water. Chop the chocolate into small pieces. Heat up the milk and add the gelatine. Add the chocolate to the milk and gelatine mixture and leave to cool to around 45°C. Whip the cream until soft peaks form. Fold in the cream and place as the second layer in the glass.

Strawberry Jelly 300g strawberry purée 50g sugar Juice of half a lime. 2 gelatine

■ Soak the gelatine in cold water. Gently heat the lime juice with the sugar in a pan until the sugar dissolves. Stir in the gelatine. Place in the fridge to cool. Serve it in a glass with the strawberry purée on top.

Poached Rhubarb 250g sugar 400g rhubarb 1 vanilla pod 6cl grenadine ■ Peel the rhubarb and cut into small cubes. Mix the sugar with 250g of water. Cut and scrape the vanilla pod and add it to the sugar and water. Bring to the boil and remove from heat. Pour the hot syrup over the rhubarb and leave to cool.

July 2019

A Healthy Diet A

healthy diet means eating small amounts of all kinds of food. Although we know that fruit and vegetables are the healthiest kind of food, it is important to include other food. According to the latest research, brown bread, pasta, rice are much healthier than their white versions because they contain a larger amount of fibre. Nuts, seeds and legumes contain healthy oils that accumulate in the joints and are therefore very important for people suffering from arthritis. As part of a healthy diet it is also important to include meat and other proteins such as fish, chicken, rabbit, poultry and other meats that contain less fat. Dairy products are also crucial as sources of calcium to strengthen bones. These are especially important for children and elderly persons. Red meat and butter are also important in small amounts. These fats provide a layer of insulation under the skin and around the internal organs to protect them and keep them warm. In conclusion, therefore, it is important to eat the correct amounts of each type of food. Combined with a moderate amount of exercise one will be promoting a healthy lifestyle and maintaining his health.

July 2019

C hocolate

on my Mind

Interview with

Shawn Zammit, Executive Pastry Chef at The Malta Marriott Hotel & Spa

oung, talented, creative and with a very reserved character is the perfect way to describe Shawn Zammit, Executive Pastry Chef at The Malta Marriott Hotel & Spa. Pompous is certainly not in his vocabulary and prefers to work away from the limelight. However his work is worth to be present in every leading food magazine. It is delicate, colourful and tempts you to indulge in the flavours he daily plays with to produce amazing work. His curriculum is impressive and boasts several stints in leading local and foreign food entities.

July 2019

SHAWN ZAMMIT

It is often said not to judge a book by the cover. The first impact with Shawn can be misleading. Behind the outer crust of a gentle clean face, lies a strong, focused and very determined person with such a colourful mind packed with concepts that blow your mind. His philosophy is so avant garde and his work is a statement. His dishes include unconventional marriages which bring together various sweet combinations that impressively fit so well together. His approach poses no boundaries and seeks to experiment with different tastes so as to create that wow factor which makes his work stand out of the crowd. Shawn notes that “from a very young age, I was attracted to the concept of creating new products with raw materials. I was always impressed how my mum and grandmother’s magical hands cooked amazing dishes with very simple products. I also spent hours watching my food heroes on popular TV shows.” He adds that “it was at that specific point in time that the kitchen was the

place I could express my talent.” However, he points out that initially he was not too keen on sweets, yet gradually developed an interest in the area. His turning point happened during a work placement. Since then, he never looked back and admits he now can’t see himself working anything else. Like many other chefs, Shawn has his food heroes including David Vidal, Antonio Bachour and Amaury Guichon who he often refers to for inspiration. Yet, Shawn has his own identity which is pretty visible in every piece of work he produces. He defines his style as modern yet with a clear classic touch. Shawn notes, "I believe the basis should always be on the classic yet the modern offers a free hand.” His major strength lies in creating individual sweets. More precisely, his forte lies in anything related to chocolate. Shawn loves chocolate, he just can’t live without it! The American actress, Mariska Hargitay once noted that “chocolate is the first luxury. It has so many things wrapped up in

July 2019

SHAWN ZAMMIT

it: deliciousness in the moment, childhood memories, and that grin-inducing feeling of getting a reward for being good.” Shawn tends to fully agree with such a statement yet chocolate means more to him. It is his muse, his canvas and the perfect platform on which he can express his creative mind and seeks to develop further his skills. I touch base with Shawn on the local pastry industry. He points out that the industry is developing at a very fast pace. “Our exposure to social media, TV programmes and travelling has increased the appetite of the local pastry industry to raise the bar. The quality, the style and the approach has certainly improved substantially.” This drive is also dictated by the industry itself which is more demanding. “The industry keeps us on our toes and demands a continuous new product of a level which they have experienced abroad.”

Our conversation on pastry inevitably touches on the summer season. Shawn notes that “summer is a challenging time yet not impossible to handle. He points out that it is that time of the year when he experiments with particular combinations such as mandarin and yuzu.” It is time for me to conclude my interview yet before calling it a day, I felt the need to ask him a final question regarding the future. “This is indeed an exciting moment both for me and the hotel. We are all focused to make sure the reopening of the hotel as smooth as possible. From a personal point of view, I feel I can offer more and The Malta Marriott Hotel & Spa is the best platform for me to create new concepts. We are in for very exciting times.” It is impressive what gems are hidden in all corners of the island. It is such a pleasure to see local talent play with so many innovative concepts. Malta has a lot to offer and Shawn is a clear proof of Malta’s culinary excellence.

July 2019

I’VE BEEN TOLD BY MY COLLEAGUES THAT I’VE PAID THE PRICE FOR REFUSING TO WEAR THE MICHELIN JACKET DURING THE 2018 CEREMONY

Credits: Ivan Brincat, Food and Wine Gazzette http://www.foodandwinegazette.com

VEYRAT speaks about the pain of losing a third star as he hits out at Michelin

arc Veyrat, the 69 year old French chef of La Maison des Bois in Manigod, who lost the third Michelin star after just one year in January has said he is convinced that no Michelin inspector went to eat at the restaurant during the year in a damning interview he gave to Le Point.

July 2019

The French chef spoke for the first time about his pain, his depression and thinking the worse since he was given the news abruptly on 20 January. He admitted thinking about committing suicide on several occasions. “I’ve asked Michelin to show me the proof that they visited the restaurant last year by providing me with the receipts but they told me it would not be ethical. If Michelin had nothing to hide, why don’t they show the receipts. Let them do it and then we can talk,” he said “they treated me with arrogance.” The French chef said he had not dared speak before but believes it is vital today. “I am uncomfortable with the turn of events at Michelin. Before they used to reward excellence, today they want sensationalism. They don’t judge the cooking any more but everything that revolves around it. In recent years, they’ve even been financed by several foreign countries to publish guides by tourist offices. Where is the independence? I worry about what will happen to our young chefs in France with this system that is no longer the original DNA of Michelin.” He said Michelin was completely detached from reality, losing speed, not selling many printed guides in France. “I’ve been told by my colleagues that I’ve paid the price for refusing to wear the Michelin jacket during the 2018 ceremony,” he said. He said that he has been in a depression since January 20. “I feel like my parents have died a second time. You can imagine the shame I feel. I am the only chef in history to have landed a third star and lost it the following year. Every morning, I wake up with that in mind. I am exhausted, I have trouble sleeping, I hardly eat anymore, I cry, I feel sick. I had dark moments several times where I thought I wanted to join my friend Bernard Loiseau up there. My companion was scared,

she hid my pills, my hunting rifles. If I’m still here, it’s thanks to her and the support of my four children. He spoke of a meeting he had at Michelin’s headquarters in Boulogne-Billancourt on 12 March with Gwendal Poullennec, the world director of Michelin guides, who was assisted by one of his collaborators. Veyrat told Le Point he was given two reasons why he lost the third star. One was that he put a slice of cheddar cheese on a dish and the other that the scallops were not cooked well. “I was speechless,” he told Le Point “because the cheese was not cheddar and it is a very technical dish based on Beaufort that I use for one of my classic dishes and the other was the fact that the scallops are cooked inside the hull of the passion fruit so it cannot have a bad texture.” “How can one be so incompetent? I realised I had an amateur in front of me. I got up to leave the room and he came to get me back when I was going to go through the office door,” he said. He said that he will think about whether to return back the two stars or not over summer and take a decision in September. Veyrat said the decision has not effected his business and turnover is up 10 per cent compared to the previous year. He believes the cooking has remained the same. “The best reference point for me is the return of guests and professionals. The regular customers keep telling me that I am much stronger now than when I had three stars in Veyrier-du-Lac and Megève. My kitchen has never been so modern and creative. It is mineral, pastoral, biological, singular and especially rooted in its soil."

July 2019

Scallop&

local prawn risotto

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

100g butter 2 shallots finely chopped 750ml fish stock 400g risotto rice 600g local prawns peeled Zest and juice of 1 lemon 3tbsp mascarpone 12 scallops meat 1 bunch chives finely chopped Handful of chopped fresh basil

â&#x2013; Melt the butter in a heavy based pan and cook the shallots gently until soft. Add in the rice and stir until the grains are well coated with the butter. Add the stock gradually, a ladle at a time, stirring well with each addition, until the rice is just tender. Add the prawn meat, season with salt and pepper. Add the lemon zest and juice. Turn the prawns over so they cook on both sides, and once they are done fold in the mascarope. Leave it to set for 5 minutes. Pan fry the scallops using 1 tbsp butter in a frying pan. Once ready add to the risotto. Add the chives and basil and serve.

July 2019

AZZOPARDI FISHERIES

Smoked Salmon

Sandwich INGREDIENTS 225g cream cheese 2tbsp fresh dill finely chopped ½ lemon Salt and pepper to taste 200grms smoked salmon ½ red onion, minced Sandwich bread to your liking such as whole wheat or white

METHOD ■ Mix together cream cheese and dill, add lemon juice to taste, then season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove crust from sliced bread and using a rolling pin, gently flatten each slice of bread. ■ Take 4 slices of the flattened bread and spread with a quarter of the cream cheese mixture. Cover with 4 slices of bread. Spread with another quarter of the cream cheese mixture. Divide smoked salmon and onions evenly between the four sandwiches. Spread another quarter of the cream cheese mixture on remaining bread and place cream cheese side down on top of salmon. Spread with remaining cream cheese mixture and top with remaining bread. Cut the sandwiches diagonally and serve.

July 2019

Be your own idol!

www.fb.com/lambbrand

July 2019

“

THE SECRET FOR A PERFECT PIZZA IS IN THE DOUGH

FLORIO

is a professional pizza maker who travels around the world to teach, what he calls, ‘the art’ of pizza making.

The famous pizzaiolo Vincenzo Florio, was recently in Malta to promote the products of the brand, ‘Selezione Casillo’, which exports pizza dough all over the world. 'Selezione Casillo' is represented in Malta by ‘Nature Line’, which imports a variety of products. We spoke to Vincenzo about his love for pizza where he shared with us his family background and his dream of working in the hotel industry. He made his first pizza at the young age of thirteen when at this age he had started working evenings in a pizzeria, until the day when he opened his own pizzeria in his home region.

July 2019

“

VINCENZO

Today, he is the President of the International Pizza Academy, where he travels around the world to teach people how to make the food that Italians are world renowned for. When we asked Vincenzo, what makes a pizza so delicious, he tells us that the dough and the kneading are the key parts of the entire process. He explained how in this process, thin and thick flour, makes all the difference in how long it will take to knead the dough and how long you will need to let it rest. The better the dough is, the easier it will be for the consumer to digest it. Apart from the dough, the air temperature also is an essential element to making the best pizza. He explained that the three main types of Italian pizzas all have different temperatures. The Neapolitan pizza is baked at 450°C for 90 seconds, the Italian pizza is baked at 350°C for 3 minutes, whilst the Roman pizza is baked at 260°C. He then shifts to the key ingredients that make a pizza so special, where he stresses that the perfect pizza should not have more than three ingredients.

When asked why he believes so, he insists that like this the pizza would not be too heavy on the stomach because it will have a somewhat equal level of carbohydrates, fats, and protein. Vincenzo notes that for a long-time people assumed that beer was the best pairing. He tends to disagree as he claims that they have too many similar ingredients. Vincenzo beleives wine pairs best with pizza, with Rosé being most suited with Margherita, Red being most suited with beef, and White most suited to fish. He also mentioned how Champagne also pairs well with pizza. He also comments the quality of pizza available in Malta. He notes that he had the possibility to taste many pizzas over the past years and admits that there is still room for improvement. He then encouraged those who specialise in pizza making and who are interested in learning this art to contact him through the International Pizza Academy Facebook profile. Vincenzo also added that there is an establishment in Œamrun that offers courses specifically focused on the art of pizza making.

July 2019

Mauro Colagreco’s Mirazur is first ever French restaurant to top World’s 50 Best list It is turning out to be a magical year for Mauro Colagreco. Mirazur, his restaurant in Menton was named the number 1 restaurant at the World Restaurants Awards in Singapore. Credits: Ivan Brincat, Food and Wine Gazzette http://www.foodandwinegazette.com

The top spot may not have come as a big surprise. The Italo-Argentinian chef of restaurant Mirazur in Menton, France has been a rising star for the past years and the only question everyone was asking was whether Noma would make it straight to number 1 or not given El Celler de Can Roca, Eleven Madison and the previous number 1 Osteria Francescana where no longer eligible for the award. Finally, the decision landed on Mauro Colagreco’s restaurant which crowns a spectacular period for the always smiling chef who also received a third Michelin star a few months ago. By giving the award to Mauro Colagreco, the World’s 50 Best Restaurants has also made a statement as Mirazur

July 2019

becomes the first ever French restaurant to top the list. In the top 10 there is also Alain Passard’s L’Arpège in 8th position. There are 5 French restaurants in the top 50. Mauro and his wife Julia thanked their team for helping Mirazur reach the summit. “We did it thanks to the love and work of our teams and the loyalty of our customers, suppliers and all people who helped to write the history of our dear Mirazur.” The top five positions were a triumph for Copenhagen in Denmark with Noma and Geranium placing second and fifth respectively. René Redzepi welcomed the number two position and congratulated his colleagues from Geranium for being voted five. “But the biggest congratulations goes out to a

great friend of mine, and one of the best cooks I know, Mauro Colagreco and whole team at Mirazur!” As the vegetable season starts at Noma, René Redzepi, whose restaurant was eligible because it reopened in a different location decided to not go to Singapore for the awards despite the possibility of a very top placing. In third place was Asador Etxebarri, a restaurant in Atxondo which has slowly but surely risen to the very top of the attention of food lovers world wide for a unique approach to cooking with fire. In fourth place is Gaggan in Bangkok, Thailand followed by Geranium in Copenhagen in fifth place. The top 10 positions are dominated by Spain, France, Denmark and Peru with no entries surprisingly from Italy and Japan. Italy’s performance was particularly disappointing with lower positions for the two entries in the list Piazza Duomo in Alba and Le Calandre in Rubano. The highest climber this year was Eneko Atxa’s Azurmendi which placed in 14th position. Spain took 7 places in the top 50 list and one can also note the rise of Disfrutar which placed 9th in the list. Belgian restaurant Hof van Cleve returned to the top 50 position in 43rd. The diversity issue has not been solved despite a voting panel made up of 50 per cent male and 50 per cent female for the first ever time. In the top 50, there were only two new female chefs on the list, Leo’s Leonor Espinosa in Colombia and Atelier Crenn. That’s 5 out of 50. 1. 2.

12.

Pujol – Mexico City, Mexico (Best Restaurant in North America)

13.

The White Rabbit – Moscow, Russia

14.

Azurmendi – Larrabetzu, Spain (Highest Climber)

15.

Septime – Paris, France

16.

Plaza Athenée – Paris, France

17.

Steirereck – Vienna, Austria

18.

Odette – Singapore

19.

Twins Garden – Moscow, Russia

20.

Tickets – Barcelona, Spain

21.

Frantzen – Stockholm, Sweden

22.

Narisawa – Tokyo, Japan

23.

Cosme – New York, New York

24.

Quintonil – Mexico City, Mexico

25.

Pavillon Ledoyen – Paris, France

26.

Boragó – Santiago, Chile

27.

The Clove Club – London, United Kingdom

28.

Blue Hill at Stone Barns – Hudson Valley, New York

29.

Piazza Duomo – Alba, Italy

30.

Elkano – Geteria, Spain

31.

Le Calandre – Rubano, Italy

32.

Nerua – Bilbao, Spain

33.

Lyle’s – London, United Kingdom

34.

Don Julio – Buenos Aires, Argentina

35.

Atelier Crenn – San Francisco, California (New entry)

36.

Le Bernardin – New York, New York

37.

Alinea – Chicago, Illinois

38.

Hiša Franko – Kobarid, Slovenia

Mirazur – Menton, France

39.

A Casa do Porco – São Paulo, Brazil (New entry)

Noma – Copenhagen, Denmark

40.

Tim Raue – Berlin, Germany

(Highest New Entry)

41.

The Chairman – Honk Kong

Asador Etxebarri – Atxondo, Spain

42.

Belcanto – Lisbon, Portugal

Gaggan – Bangkok, Thailand

43.

Hof Van Cleve – Kruishoutem, Belgium

Geranium – Copenhagen, Denmark

44.

The Test Kitchen – Cape Town, South Africa

Central – Lima, Peru

(Best Restaurant in Africa)

(Best Restaurant in South America)

45.

Sühring – Bangkok, Thailand

Mugaritz – San Sebastián, Spain

46.

De Librije – Zwolle, The Netherlands

L’Arpège – Paris, France

47.

Benu – San Francisco, California (New entry)

Disfrutar – Barcelona, Spain

48.

Ultraviolet – Shanghai, China

10.

Maido – Lima, Peru

49.

Leo – Bogotá, Colombia (New entry)

11.

Den – Tokyo, Japan

50.

Schloss Schauenstein – Fürstenau, Switzerland

July 2019

BJORN ATTARD

Pretzel

Ice Cream Pie This pretzel crunch is going to be the base of our ice cream pie. It straddles the line between savoury and sweet. (makes 1 pie 25cm diameter) serves 8 to 10

PRETZEL ICE CREAM 300g mini pretzels 440g milk 1 ½ gelatine leaves 200g glucose 30g light brown sugar 45g cream cheese 2g sea salt 1g bicarbonate of soda

PRETZEL CRUNCH

METHOD

100g mini pretzels 60g light brown sugar 25g castor sugar 20g milk powder 10g malt powder 100g melted butter

■ Heat the oven to 150°C/ Gas mark 2. ■ Spread the pretzels on a baking tray and toast for 15 minutes, until the pretzels have slightly darkened in colour and your kitchen smells pretzel. Cool completely. ■ Put the pretzels in a large bowl, pour the milk over them, and stir while steeping for 2 minutes. ■ Strain the milk mixture through a fine mesh sieve and discard the soggy pieces of pretzel. ■ Soak the gelatine in a bowl of cold water for a few minutes. ■ Warm a little bit of the pretzel milk and whisk in the gelatine to dissolve. Add the remaining pretzel milk, glucose, brown sugar, cream cheese, salt and bicarbonate of soda and whisk until all of the ingredients are fully dissolved and incorporated. ■ Pour the mixture into your household ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions. If you don’t have an ice cream machine at home, pour the mixture direct in the tin that was lined with the pretzel crunch earlier and put in the freezer. ■ Serve with fresh summer berries.

METHOD ■ Heat the oven to 140°C/Gas mark1. ■ Place the pretzels in a medium bowl and crush them with your hands to one quarter of their original size. Add the milk powder, sugar, salt and malt powder. Toss to mix. Add the melted butter into the crumbled pretzel crunch mixing well, and using your fingers and the palms of your hands press the mixture firmly into a pie tin and bake for 20 minutes. It should look toasted and smell buttery. Cool completely.

July 2019

Involtini di Bresaola

FILLING 4 slices of thin cut bresaola 100g cream cheese 15g roasted and crushed pistachios Fresh herbs

SERVING Roasted cherry tomatoes on stem Baby spinach Alfalfa sprouting Fig jam

METHOD ■ Add finely chopped fresh herbs, crushed roasted pistachios and cream cheese together in a bowl. Mix together until all ingredients are smooth. ■ Place the bresaola on a flat surface and add some mixture on each piece of bresaola. Roll the bresaola and place on a serving plate. ■ To serve, place washed spinach leaves in the centre of the plate and put the rolled bresaola on top. Garnish with a teaspoon of fig jam, roasted cherry tomatoes and alfalfa sprouting.

July 2019

JIM BARRY

THREE GENERATIONS OF FAMILY WINEMAKERS

JIM BARRY WINES HISTORY Jim Barry Wines is a multi-generational, family owned winery in the Clare Valley of South Australia. The winery was founded in 1959 by Jim Barry and his wife Nancy. Jim graduated from Roseworthy College with the 17th diploma in Oenology and became the first qualified winemaker in Clare. Today, Jim and Nancy’s son, Peter, oversees the running of the business along with his children, Tom, Sam and Olivia. THE CLARE VALLEY Only an hour and a half north of Adelaide lies the picturesque Clare Valley. The region has been producing wine for more than 175 years and is home to over 40 wineries. The region enjoys a Mediterranean climate, with warm to hot summer days, moderated by cooling afternoon and night breezes. This diurnal variation helps keep the average temperature lower and gives vines respite from the heat of the day, slowing ripening and adding complexity – especially to aromatic wines such as Riesling. THE VINEYARDS Over the last fifty years, the family has worked to establish a mosaic of vineyards across the Clare Valley and Coonawarra. Jim Barry Wines have ten

sites in Clare and two in the Coonawarra, each unique in aspect and soil, which allow them to create unique Australian wines with a regional focus and a true sense of place. THE WINES Jim Barry Wines has an innovative approach to viticulture and a strong commitment to technological excellence in winemaking. This philosophy is fundamental to the company’s ability to consistently produce wines of the highest quality, which have won international recognition. They produce a range of Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, along with Australia’s first Assyrtiko. Jim Barry’s flagship wine, ‘The Armagh’ Shiraz, has achieved extraordinary success since its release in 1985. The vineyard was named after the adjoining hamlet of Armagh, established by Irish settlers in 1849, and was planted by Jim Barry in 1968. The three generations of the Barry Family being involved in the process brings experience, consistency and balance. They ensure total winemaking involvement from the vineyard to final bottling. Jim Barry wines are exclusively imported and distributed by Abraham’s Supplies Co. Ltd.

July 2019

The

ART of Cooking

Interview with

Alexandre

Couillon

Cooking is my art form”, emphasises Alexandre Couillon. “With this art I am able to create beautiful things.

any critics consider Alexandre Couillon as a genius, a perfectionist and one of the best ambassadors of French cuisine. He was just 22 years old in 1999, when he and his wife, Céline, opened La Marine on Ile de Noirmoutier, an island in the French Atlantic. He has built a worldwide reputation for the simple but ingenious way he cooks ingredients from his garden and the little fishing port of L'Herbaudiere his eatery overlooks. 88

July 2019

The first year he and his wife Céline took over the then seasonal La Marine restaurant "we didn't have a single customer one night in July", Couillon told AFP. "You don't come here by accident. Now we have people coming 800 kilometres (500 miles) for dinner.“ Indeed, food enthusiasts travel from all corners of the globe to taste his amazing dishes which include black oyster poached in Colonnata lard with squid, sardine crackers and cauliflower ice cream and equally creative desserts using local seaweed. Indeed, together with his devoted team, Couillon takes a straightforward modern approach to French cuisine based on the products that the island and the natural surroundings of the restaurant have to offer him – and that is predominantly delicious fish and seafood. A great deal of meticulousness goes into each dish to create a masterpiece of flavour that provides a colourful contrast to the modern black and white décor of the restaurant as it sits on the table – perfectly paired with a local wine from the Vendée region. Today, with its two Michelin stars, the restaurant is among the best in the whole of France, and its young chef is among those to whom the future of French haute cuisine belongs. Alexandre Couillon shared with Delicious his journey in the world of food, his culinary philosophy and his plans for the future.

Credits: Laureut Dupont

To what extent does the island of Noirmoutier influence your food philosophy? I have a deep attachment to this island. The land, the beach, the fire and the sea spray evoke memories which inspire me to create dishes which serve as a tribute to the region.

How do you manage to create a perfect marriage between sea flavours and tastes of the terroir that surrounds you? Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m really inspired by my island. I know the unique taste of fish and local vegetable this land can offer since I was a child and seek to bring them to offer every client that visits our outlet the opportunity to taste such unique flavours.

You have often defined yourself as an artisan. Can you elaborate? Cooking is my art form.With this art I am able to create beautiful things.The land and sea that surrounds me, offers me the unique opportunity to work with amazing fresh ingredients. Their unique tastes and flavours are a source of inspiration to me to create everyday interesting dishes for my clients.

You stress on the need to respect others, be open to them, inspire and be inspired by them. Why? I strongly believe in the need to respect others, be open to them, inspire and be inspired by them. Passing on knowledge lies at the heart of the restaurant, and offering recognition to everyone, for the good of all is critical. July 2019

ALEXANDRE COUILLON

July 2019

How do you translate emotions into a dish? Every dish must create an unforgettable experience to each client visiting our restaurant. This experience can be offered by using a genuine, fresh product which spells out the beauty and uniqueness of this island.

What encourages people to travel over 800km to dine at your restaurant? I believe people are curious to taste something which is different, authentic and which truly spells out the tastes and flavours of the area. I also believe people are intrigued by the idea of dining in a place distant from the busy mundane life.

You often insist that success did not change you. No, I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want to change. I still keep things simple with no snobbishness, no truffles nor caviar. Nothing is going to change. I remain an artisan. I just want to get up every morning and keep that same pleasure of going to work.

In what way does summer fit into your kitchen? It is that time of the year when the sun brightens my kitchen and serves as a source of inspiration to create fresh dishes such as cold tomato soup prepared with fresh water and tomatoes sourced from my own garden.

What dishes do you associate with this time of the year? In summer, I like to mix mix fish with fruits such as berries. I also love to use vegetables which I pick from my garden.

What's next for Alexandre Couillon? I really donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know. Time will tell. I am sure though that I will continue to create new dishes to offer my clients something new, something different and something to amaze them. July 2019

SPAGHETTI a lle

July 2019

VONGOLE

INGREDIENTS 250g spaghetti 500g fresh clams in shells 2 ripe tomatoes Extra virgin olive oil 1 fat garlic clove chopped 1 small or half a large fresh red chilli finely chopped Splash of white wine (about half a small glass) Chopped fresh parsley

METHOD ■ Put the water for the spaghetti on to boil. Rinse the clams in several changes of cold water. Discard any that are open or damaged. ■ Cover the tomatoes with boiling water, leave for 1 minute, then drain and peel off the skin. Remove the seeds and chop the flesh. ■ Cook the spaghetti according to pack instructions. Meanwhile, heat the extra virgin olive oil in a large pan, add the garlic and chilli, then fry gently for a few seconds. ■ Stir in the tomatoes, then add the clams and a splash of wine, salt and pepper and bring to the boil. ■ Cover the pan and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, until the clams are open. Drain the pasta, then tip into the pan with the fresh parsley and toss together. Serve immediately.

July 2019

Art

Bringing

into the

KITCHEN 94

July 2019

Credits: Marco Varoli

Interview with

Eugenio

Jacques Christiaan Boer,

elissa Lupo, Editor in Chief of City Girl Cooks has recently described Chef Eugenio Jacques Christiaan Boer, chef and owner of Essenza, as "an easy-going guy, funny, relaxed, wickedly smart and with a contagious enthusiasm. The son of a Dutch father and Ligurian mother, he is considered by many food critics as one of the best talents Italy has to offer. His work is impeccable with an impressive attention to detail. Above all, every dish he prepares, has its own mood and a story to tell. We recently caught up with Chef Eugenio Jacques Christiaan Boer to discuss his origins, his philosophy and his upcoming projects.

July 2019

Life is an amazing journey full of encounters, I always try to transpose this concept into my kitchen.

July 2019

EUGENIO JACQUES CHRISTIAAN BOER

What attracted you to the world of food? The art of food has become a way of communication for me. What inspired me when I was a child and what made me fall in love with this was the passion that my grandmother had for the kitchen, the way she used to cook for my father. At that time I didn't speak Dutch and in order to understand her, I used to watched her and spent my days with her. I learnt during my childhood that cooking is above all a gesture of love.

How does your cooking style reflects your personal style? Well I’ve tried to absorb as much as possible from all of the places I’ve been before. There is influence from France and from Sicily where I lived before and from all the people I’ve met. This has given me a perspective that allows me to share in things that I’ve experienced and interpret them in the way that I experienced them, like how you eat on the street.

A food critic has recently noted that each dish you design has its own mood and a story to tell. Can you elaborate? Every dish I design has a mood because it can be traced back to a memory.

How do you blend your Italian and Nordic roots into your cooking? How does your cooking style reflect your personal style? Blending my Nordic and Italian roots is a process that comes to me easily and naturally given from my half-breed nature. It is not an imposition or something that I had to learn. My main concept of cooking is based on classicism, because my training has been in big restaurants with a classic style, which gave me the skills to learn the techniques of basic preparation but also gave me the opportunity to free the mind with the creativity that distinguishes me by adding a touch of innovation to my dishes. Life is an amazing journey full of encounters, I always try to transpose this concept into my kitchen.

July 2019

What makes a food luxurious? It needs to be good and it needs to be respected. It’s not about gold or foie gras, it’s not the ingredients. It’s about how things are put together.

Why is food not a fashion? My dishes are born of my memories, maybe from a personal encounter I had with someone, a colleague or maybe from a trip I took somewhere. My dishes are born in the past in order to become something to put into the future, not because I have to use an ingredient.

In what way are your dishes born in the past in order to become something to put into the future? The creation of my dishes based on a classic basis always looks to the future and to innovation.

What's next for you? Next steps? Improve myself every day, always. 98

July 2019

EUGENIO JACQUES CHRISTIAAN BOER

Every

dish

design

has a mood because it can be traced back to a memory .

July 2019

DINING FROM ABOVE

magine yourself high up in the sky, in a perfect spot where you can gaze up at the moon and the stars and look down at the breathtaking views of Malta. Add to that, a culinary experience like no other which combines a little bit of fine dining, fun and excitement. This is what Dinner in the Sky is all about.

Diners enjoy a gourmet experience perched upon floating platforms suspended 180 feet above ground with the help of a giant crane! For more than a decade, ‘Dinner in the Sky’ has delighted thousands of guests in 50 countries. The locations range from skies above the bustling Las Vegas strip to the beautiful Dubai Marina and even adjacent to the Eiffel Tower in Paris. For the past four years, Dinner in the Sky has entertained locals and foreigners in various locations in Malta. This year, the 2019 Best Restaurant of the Year and 2019 TripAdvisor Certificate of Excellence awarded ‘Dinner in the Sky’ is set close to the Central 100

July 2019

Public Library in Floriana. The place is a perfect spot to admire over a glass of wine and some good food with music in the background what Malta’s capital city, Valletta, the Manoel Island Yacht Marina and the Sliema promenade have to offer. Based on my own experience earlier this month, I can say the place have much to offer. It is impressive how we pass by such places everyday and yet whilst suspended 40 meters up in the sky we realise what a beauty our island is. Dinner in the Sky has two seatings; one at 19.00 for a sunset view and one at 21:30 for city lights. In the latter, fireworks are also included in the package!

Yet Dinner in the Sky is not only about views. It is also about good food. Under the vigil eyes of one of Maltaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best food ambassadors, Marvin Gauci, guests are entertained with an impressive seven course meal that starts off with Marvinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s famous Pina Colada Molecular Sphere which for those who never had the opportunity to taste it, consists of pineapple and rum topped with brown sugar crystals and served on a half lime. Pina colada Molecular Sphere is followed by a choice of starters to choose from; meagre ceviche or guacamole. If you happen to experience Dinner in the Sky with friends or your loved one, I recommend you order both as it is hard to tell which one is the best yet it is a sheer pity not to taste both! The meal includes an intermediate course that consists of strawberries and mint gazpacho. The

taste is simply fresh and exquisite. The meal continues with a good selection of main courses to choose from which includes; a sea bass cooked sous vide and roasted, glazed with dill and white wine veloute; duck leg confit, black Angus short beef ribs and aubergine stuffed with couscous, marinated chickpeas and roasted nuts. The taste of salt is complemented by a pleasant dessert which consists of orange and almonds delight, Perugina Nero Fondente Extra 70% cocoa sand, raspberry gel and mint leaves and a nitro surprise digestive. Once down, guests are entertained with a good coffee and a home-made Chocolate Bonbon made with Perugina Nero Fondente Nocciole. What can you ask more from such a pleasant night under the stars! Dinner in the Sky is certainly worth a try! July 2019

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July 2019

Credits: Alan Saliba

Creating Something Thomas Sapiano, Special Interview with

Pinksalt

he local food industry has a further feather in its hat with the undisputed talent of Chef Thomas Sapiano. Behind that easy-going look lies a very bold and creative mind that seeks to create something particular in taste and form. He never takes a no for an answer and constantly strives to take his food to a different level. Chefs are often asked, â&#x20AC;&#x153;What does food mean to you?â&#x20AC;?. Notwithstanding many revert with the usual stereotype answer, for Chef Thomas Sapiano, the question evokes thousands of memories and experiences which are hard to explain in a few words. Unwinding over a cup of coffee, Thomas points out to me; "I often tell my friends that I was born in a kitchen and will die in a kitchen. Truly so, food is my world. It is tightly knit to my work, my family and my life."

July 2019

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July 2019

THOMAS SAPIANO

His interest in food started during his time as a part time waiter and then as a barman. He then shifted to the kitchen. Thomas admits that formal training was never his forte. He always considered himself a rule breaker and never felt he could fit into strait jackets. Thomas always saw food as a way to think out of the box and an opportunity to turn the conventional into unconventional. Classrooms were never a source of motivation to him. In fact his time at the Institute of Tourism Studies was brief. It was there, in the kitchen where he felt at ease and happy to experiment with ingredients. "I always felt that the University of Life offered me the best platform to grow from a culinary point of view. It was thanks to my time spent in the busy kitchen corridors of local culinary outlets that I learnt the tricks of the trade and what really food is all about." Indeed Thomas had several stages abroad including Claude Bosi at Bibendum. He feels that such experiences helped him develop further his culinary skills He also notes that there are a few chefs on the local front he looks up to such as Steve Sika, AndrĂŠ Bonnici and Michael Sultana. His new baby is Pinksalt, an eatery situated in the picturesque fishing village of Marsaxlokk. The restaurant specializes in BBQ grills, fresh fish, Mediterranean dishes, pizza, pasta and salads. The menu is very casual with a clear imprint of Chef Sapiano's culinary flair. His creative mind is visible in various details here and there such as the galletto with curry and lime sauce, the beef salad with guacamole sauce, house made

July 2019

105

ginger and chilli oil or the green salad with fried ale and sesame textures. The selection of pasta is also worth a try with some names including spaghetti pulled beef and penne chicken truffle. I ask Thomas what are the most interesting products you love working with. "I try all sorts of vegetables such as lotus roots, celeriac and radicchio. I also try to experiment with particular ingredients." We quickly touch on the the concept of local fresh produce. He points out that there is very little appreciation towards local produce. He stresses on the need for local food and catering education institutions to stress on the use of such ingredients. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Local fresh produce is ultimately what distinguishes our dishes from other continental cuisines.â&#x20AC;? Thomas notes that local produce offers various challenges especially in terms of price. "We are limited in volumes and that is a major challenge." He also notes that our country is pretty much dependent on imports and there is little respect towards the local source. It's time to conclude our interview yet before leaving the outlet, I ask Thomas if he has any plans for the future. He quickly points out that his primary focus is on Pinksalt. "It will be a busy summer were we will dedicate our energies to entertain our clients with good food set in a relaxed environment. In winter though, when the place will be quiet, I hope to have the time for a stage preferably at Albert Adria's, Tickets."

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PAN SEARED CANNON of beef fillet 200g beef fillet. 10g thyme 10g garlic 20ml olive oil 5g smoked sea salt

FOR SAUCE 100ml red wine 50ml port 25g thyme 3 cloves garlic 300ml beef stock METHOD â&#x2013; Clean off the fillet and cut in 3 lenght wise. â&#x2013; Marinate the fillets with thyme, garlic, olive oil and smoked sea salt and leave to rest for 2 hours. Heat a little oil in a pan and sear both sides of the fillets for 1 to 2 minutes. In the same pan deglaze with the port and red wine continue by adding the thyme and garlic reduce by half and add the beef stock let it to simmer until you get a consistency of a nice sauce.

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July 2019

RYAN MARMARÁ SPINACH PURÉE 100g fresh spinach 100ml vegetable stock 20g butter METHOD ■ Bring to the boil the vegetable stock, add the butter and the fresh spinach. Pass to a food processor and blend until smooth, season, and pass through a fine sieve and cool straight away to retain the nice green colour.

TEXTURES OF BEETROOT Warm beetroot jelly. 1L beetroot juice 20ml red wine 20ml port wine 6g agar agar 10g salt 10g sugar 5g bay leaves 3g pepper corns METHOD ■ In a heavy based pan start off by reducing in half the red wine and port, then add all ingredients together except the agar agar. Leave to reduce by half and add the agar agar. Bring to the boil, blend and pass through a sieve and set in a mould. Leave to set for 30 minutes.

BEETROOT MICROWAVE SPONGE CAKE 240g beetroot purée 8 egg whites

8 egg yolks 50g flour Pinch of salt METHOD ■ Measure everything and blend well in a mixer. Purée until fine. Transfer half of the batter in an espuma gun and load with 2 charges. Shake well and leave to rest for 1 hour. Repeat the same procedure with the other half. ■ Take a number of paper cups, cutting a cross on the bottom of each cup. Fill ¾ of the batter in each cup and cook in the microwave oven for 30 seconds. Allow to cool upside down. Remove the cakes by cutting the cups open with scissors.

BEETROOT AND GOAT CHEESE MOUSSE 240g goat cheese 500g double cream 1 shallot 1 bayleaf 1 clove garlic 1 spring thyme 300g beetroot purée 4 sheets gelatine 2tbsp truffle oil METHOD ■ Mix all ingredients together to infuse, blend and pass through a fine sieve. Add the soaked and dissolved gelatine leaves and add the truffle oil. Set in moulds and put in the refrigerator for 1 hour until ready to use.

PUMPKIN CUSTARD TART Low Tart shell filled with parmesan cheese custard and pumpkin royal FOR CUSTARD 500ml double cream 120g grated original cheese 9 egg yolks 1tbsp crème fraiche METHOD ■ In a mixing bowl on bain-marie add the cream, cheese, egg yolks and whisk until the mix reaches 80°C. To finish, add the crème fraiche and fill up the tarts. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours to set.

FOR THE PUMPKIN ROYAL 175ml pumpkin purée 150ml double cream 100g original cheese grated 5 eggs METHOD ■ In a mixing bowl on bain-marie combine the pumpkin purée, cream, cheese and mix until the cheese is melted. Blend well the mixture and add the eggs and blend until smooth. Transfer the mixture in the moulds and cook at 100°C for 20 minutes. Freeze the moulds so you can pop the royal.

July 2019

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July 2019

JOHN PAUL ZERAFA MILK CHOCOLATE MOUSSE 170g milk chocolate, chopped 30g dark chocolate, chopped 30ml butter 180ml 35% cream 2 eggs, separated 45ml sugar ■ In a bowl, over a double boiler melt the chocolate with the butter and 30ml (2 tablespoons) of cream. Leave to cool. ■ In another bowl, beat the egg yolks and sugar with an electric mixer until stiff peaks form. Set aside. ■ In another bowl, whip the remaining cream until semifirm peaks form. ■ Add the egg yolks to the cooled chocolate mixture and combine with a whisk. With a spatula, gently fold in the egg whites. Fold in the whipped cream, the same way, until smooth. BERGAMOT CRÉMEUX 200g bergamot juice 270g eggs 58g sugar 170g white chocolate 15g cocoa butter 2 gelatine sheets

Milk chocolate mousse, Bergamot crémeux

SERVED WITH PINEAPPLE AND DRAGON FRUIT SALAD

■ Combine the sugar and eggs, add the bergamot juice, stir constantly while bringing to a boil. Add the gelatine and combine. Remove from heat and let cool. ■ Once it's cooled to 40°C, add the white chocolate and the cocoa butter. Combine all together and place into a piping bag ready for plating. Store in the fridge until required. ASSEMBLY ■ Pipe into four to six dessert silicone moulds, cover and refrigerate for at least an hour. Serve with dragon fruit and pineapple salad and roasted hazelnut ice cream.

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STUFFED

CALAMARI

110

July 2019

INGREDIENTS 2 calamari 50g long grain rice 1 onion 2 garlic cloves 1 small can tuna 200g mixed seafood 6 sundried tomatoes Lemon juice Chilli flakes Pepper 2tbps olive oil Canned tomato polpa

METHOD ■ Tell the fishmonger to clean the calamari, wash them well. ■ Bring the water to boil and boil the long grain rice. ■ In a pan heat the olive oil, add the onion, garlic, chilli flakes, add the calamari and the mixed seafood. Cook for about 2 minutes. ■ After the rice is boiled and the fried mixture is cooked let the ingredients cool down, then add the canned tuna, sundried tomatoes and a dash of lemon juice and pepper. ■ Stuff the calamari with the mixture and close the top using a toothpick. Heat a little sunflower oil, add garlic and pan-fry the calamari for 5 minutes, searing all sides. Place in a baking dish, add the tomato pulp and bake in a preheated oven for 10 minutes. Ready to serve.

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An Eye

FOR

hile browsing through a magazine rack at a bookstore, I was immediately struck by the front cover of a food magazine. The shot was clean, sharp, bold, and with that touch only a person that lives and breathes photography can shoot. The image was not only about food but an explosion of ideas and colours which perfectly fit together to create such an amazing piece of work. The author of such work is a French photographer, JOHN HENNEQUIN who recently took the bold decision to move to Malta where his mother lives.

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Detail

RUMMO 80 x 210 mm.pdf 1 14/06/2018 16:25:31

Rummo Lenta Lavorazione is the only pasta to be approved by the Italian Cooks Federation. Credits: Served Magazine C

CMY

{ Follow us on Facebook } Trade enquiries: 2180 2554 or info@sogood.com.mt July 2019

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JOHN HENNEQUIN

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John is smart, sharp and with that distinct charm only a French person has. An influencer recently defined John as "a human being dripping with talent. A true artist from head to toe." Indeed John is an undisputed talent with a unique skill to turn every photo shoot into something great, amazing and simply breathtaking. His portfolio is incredible with stints in leading entities in the fashion industry including; L'OrĂŠal, CHASSEUR magazine and FIRSTLUXE magazine. His strength lies in portraits which critics have often noted, "he crafts with the grace of renaissance painters." It's literally hard to tell whether his portraits are alive or not. Every shot is incredibly well taken and his use of shades and colours is simply astonishing. A blogger recently noted that John "interprets the light and the dark, the tonality and the relationships between the colours, the compositions and the general ambience in a way that only he can. He is the Vermeer of photography." He truly is and his almost cinematic compositions and the movement in his photos brings the subject matter to life, creating a tangible sense of vulnerability. Yet John's strength lies also in food photography. Food means so much to him. It means colour, it means form, it means detail and above all, it means creativity. Every dish John is called to shoot is a story for him to discover. Every shot focuses on detail with an emphasis on colours which are never too little or too much. His food photos also stress on motion which is visible either in a broken piece of parmesan cheese, the position of a fork or half cut red pepper. What impresses most is John's ability to bring all elements perfectly together. John has now set his focus on Malta where he has been living for the past months. It was love at first sight. He is impressed by what the island has to offer from a historical, architectural, artistic and societal point of view. Indeed, the island offers so much material for his photographic lens. Besides the potential the island offers to him, Malta is a perfect place for John to develop his professional goals he has set for the coming years. July 2019

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must say, it is always a great experience dining at Noni. Notwithstanding the challenge to park in Valletta and despite the hundreds of steps that divide the place from a decent parking slot, the restaurant is a true gem worth all the hassle for an hour or two of really good food and service. I still believe the place is blessed by the creative hands of one of Malta's most talented chefs, JONATHAN BRINCAT. His work is simply amazing and together with his team, constantly creates incredible dishes with that little touch of wow which changes any lunch or dinner from a normal experience to something you will remember for a long time.

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They make an art out of the food they serve. Creative and delicious, innovative and beautiful plates.

Credits: Brian Grech

Something

World

out of this

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JONATHAN BRINCAT A food enthusiast recently wrote on tripadvisor that at Noni "They make an art out of the food they serve. Creative and delicious, innovative and beautiful plates." Indeed, they do! Jonathanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s work is impressive and highlights his culinary flair and sharp eye for detail. His style of cuisine is described by many as modern yet with a classical touch primarily using local seasonal ingredients. Indeed, every dish prepared at Noni is a work of art which exalts the beauty local seasonal produce. Noni's summer menu is no exception. It is a mix of traditional dishes which remain a staple of Noni with new fresh concepts which exalts the summer season and gives justice to the beauty of local produce. The famous slow cooked octopus tagine with Israeli couscous, Kalamata olives and marjoram oil and the saddle of rabbit are still there on the menu. However, food enthusiasts are offered a selection of new dishes both in terms of starter as well as main course. Diners are treated to dishes such as a roasted rump of lamb (served with moussaka and crumbled feta) as a main, and a mushroom tortellini as a starter, served with a delicate consommĂŠ and fermented mushrooms. The list of new dishes also includes other mind blowing concepts including a "kannoli" served as a starter. The list is infinite and certainly worth a try. In terms of dessert, Noni remains loyal to his traditional selection with his famous "te fit-tazza" which continues to entice the curiosity of many. For those who never tried it, simply go for it! It's divine with a mix of tastes which makes it my all time favourite. The major strength in Noni's menu probably lies in the use of good local produce which perfectly blends with the creative mind of a great chef. Noni recently noted "We try to use local produce. We are blessed with some very good seasonal ingredients. Nothing beats seasonal ripe tomatoes, fresh strawberries, local salt and local honey. We are also lucky to have access to a high quality pork. Such ingredients serve as a perfect muse to create interesting dishes." And what about the service? Many food critics describe it as "excellent - attentive but not intrusive." There is no better way to define the approach at Noni. Notwithstanding the change in seasons, the service remains impeccable and a pleasure to have around. The place is certainly worth a try so whilst walking down Republic street, once you pass by the Chamber of Commerce, think about Noni and make sure to pay a visit this summer.

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love Gozo love food enjoy Country Terrace

Country Terrace Lounge Bar & Restaurant Zewwieqa Street, Mgarr - Gozo T:+356 2155 0248 M:+356 9944 6833 Email: info@country-terrace.com

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Credit: Tristan Steward/elBarri

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TASTE of Something DIFFERENT

S Interview with

JP Debono, Danny's

picy chicken burger, wild boar & truffle casarecce, wild mushroom and pea toasty and frozen mango smoothie bowl are a few of the mind blowing items available on the menu at Danny's. Situated on the tip of the Imriehel bypass lies a small outlet which offers a menu focused on fresh, tasty, healthy and good value for money food. The people behind such a cool concept are two brothers with chef JP Debono leading the kitchen. Chef Debono shared with us, how did it all start, what to expect at Danny's and their plans for the future. July 2019

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JP DEBONO

What encourages two brothers to invest in a food outlet? A 'never ever give up' mentality and collective vision together with a structured strategy. Business and hospitality has been in our blood from a very young age and opening our own spot had been a topic for ages. After a family trip to Australia a couple of years ago, we both set path in pursuing what we have established at Danny's today and will continue to get better and get closer to our goal daily.

How would you describe the concept behind Danny's? Our vision is to be able to provide our customers and employees with a business that people would love, not only the customers but our people internally, where

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they can work in a place they love and provide customers with something they love doing. It’s about having the ability to create something unique, be it sweet, savour, food or beverage. Unique flavours and a variety of options from weekly à la carte menu to a selection of 'on the go' items such as fresh juices, homemade milks and granola. We strive to carefully select produce and create as many items as we can in house.

You often describe Danny's as "all the inventiveness you'd expect of a top-notch bistro in an exciting, new joint. " Why? I wouldn’t compare us to a top notch bistro as we are

different in so many ways. We just offer a good selection of items each being unique in their own way. Cooking good food is the most important thing for me. Be it opening a snack bar, bistro or fine dining restaurant it all really doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t matter if you are unable to provide the one thing a restaurant is supposed to provide after opening its doors, and that is good food.

How do two brothers with such different backgrounds coexist together under the same roof? Even though our careers follow two completely separate paths, we both have the same roots and maintain a good healthy relationship. I mostly run and manage Danny's, whilst Fabien implements business strategy and structure.

In a recent interview, you noted that the two fundamental ingredients for a business to work are creativity and business sense. Can you elaborate? Together with a number of other items I believe that

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JP DEBONO

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these two points play a fairly large role when it comes to building a healthy business. Expanding your imagination and being able to create something original is a gift one can cherish. Attracting a certain crowd for something unique whilst on the other hand a stable business sense will contribute to a healthy business.

What makes Danny's stand out of the crowd? Authenticity is definitely the key role here. If you want to stand out, you just have to be yourself, be true to who you are, what you believe in and what your passion is. This is the exact formula we follow day in day out.

In what way do you create a perfect marriage between so many different cuisines? Keeping it simple sometimes can go a long way. When composing a menu we just try to never go over the top with anything. We have created a varied structure to be able to provide a good selection for our customers. Never mixing it up too much, just a sweet symphony of selected dishes.

What should customers look out for during the summer season? We have just started revamping our deli selection, introducing homemade milks and granolas, protein balls, fruit and chocolate bars, daily selected salads and sandwiches together with a list of other items. Our aim is to be able to provide people 'on the go' purchase something unique and affordable in the shortest amount of time possible. We have also just launched our delivery services to selected areas and an online shop for easier and quicker ordering.

Any projects for the future? A number of ideas and plans hang on our office walls. Yet, the main objective for the time being is to focus on our first project that we have built and be able to fulfill our vision.

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SPICY STEAMED

CLAMS

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INGREDIENTS 1tbsp extra virgin olive oil 2tbsp minced garlic 1,400g fresh littleneck clams 1 cup dry white wine Juice of 1 lime 1 jalapeno pepper, thinly sliced Red chili pepper flakes, to taste.

METHOD ■ In a large pot with a lid, warm oil over medium high heat. Add garlic and cook until slightly softened. ■ Add the jalapeno pepper and wine. Simmer for about 3 minutes. ■ Stir in the clams, cover pot and cook until clams open and are cooked through, about 5 to 10 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to remove clams from pot, dividing them between 2 serving bowls. Discard any clams that don’t open. ■ Stir lime juice and red pepper flakes into a pan and cook for about 1 minute. ■ Spoon sauce over clams and serve.

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Credit: Tristan Steward/elBarri

SUMMER CARNIVAL 2019 23 - 25 AUGUST LOCATIONS: Saint Paul’s Bay Birżebbuġa Marsaskala