Delicious No_19

A YEAR TO REMEMBER

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THE PERFECT CHRISTMAS GIFT.

manouche.com.mt DELICIOUS

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ARTISAN . DELI . WINERY

All that you wish for...

The real taste of Gozo always make a perfect gift.

Distinctinctly Gozitan hampers to suit any taste and budget.

Ta’ Mena Experience Triq l-Industrija Xewkija Industrial Estate XWK 3000 Gozo Malta Tel:+ 356 21564939 www.tamena-gozo.com 2

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Christmas at HILTON MALTA

Making Memories with your loved ones

Safely

for more information:

PORTOMASO,

ST.JULIANS, STJ4012 T: +356 2138 3383

F: www.facebook.com/hiltonmalta

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Printing & Publishing: Union Print Co. Ltd, Workers' Memorial Building, 3rd Floor, South Street, Valletta +356 2590 0200 Editor: Omar Vella delicious@unionprint.com.mt Proof Reading: Mark Schembri Ramona Marie Vella Cini Design: Ryan Bezzina design@unionprint.com.mt Front image: Courtesy of Brian Grech Seed Restaurant at the Hyatt Regency Malta Index image: Courtesy of Sean Mallia Photos: We thank all contributers for providing photos and images.

Recipes: We thank all contributers for the recipes provided Advertising: info@unionprint.com.mt +356 2590 0200

Credit: Sean Mallia - ION The Harbour

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A YEAR

TO REMEMBER

his was a tough year for many in the food industry. The COVID-19 pandemic has placed unprecedented stress on all those operating in the farm to fork food chain process. Every entity had to face the tough reality that this was not a normal year.

Above all, the pandemic has highlighted how fragile our food chain – from field to fork – really is.

And all this happened when Malta’s culinary industry was thriving.

COVID-19 was indeed a hard pill to swallow for many in the industry. Yet hope is the last to die and the food industry continues to work incessantly so as to find the light at the end of the tunnel. It is hard to tell when the COVID-19 pandemic will end.

It is also hard to take full stock of the impact of such pandemic on the industry. What can surely be told is that the food sector is alive, fighting tooth and nail for a quick recovery.

A very Merry Christmas And a happy New Year Let’s hope it’s a good one Without any fear” John Lennon

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INDEX

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2020- Don Berto 6Credit:December Sean Mallia

08 26 VIDAL 32 CARABOTT 36 CIAPPARA

Malta’s Culinary Trail

40 HARB

David

44 GAUCI 48 DEGABRIELE 52 VELLA 56 VELLA

Martin

Damian

Hany

Marvin

Aaron

Letizia

60 PRECA 68 BORÆ 86 MALLIA 90 AZZOPARDI

Ramona & Roberta

Andre

Sean

Noel

Andrew

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MALTA’S CULINARY TRAIL A STORY FROM THE FARM TO FORK

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he acquisition and preparation of food holds a central position in the development of societies, from prehistoric times to the present day. Apart from its physiological importance, food is also a cultural phenomenon.

As a cultural object, food is a means through which humans develop a communal identity.

Food is a paramount marker of ethnic consciousness and an important contributor towards the formation of historical identity.

Although there is a clear Maltese identity in various key areas, the country still lacks a clear local imprint in the culinary industry.

Indeed, fifty years following Malta’s Independence, Malta’s culinary identity is still an open discussion.

Despite the lack of a clear food trail, Malta has all the requisites to develop a clear identity.

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Credit: Brian Grech - FernandĂľ

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A RICH FOOD

HERITAGE

Agriculture and fisheries in Malta is as old as man’s presence on the island. The Phoenicians initiated the olive oil industry in Malta, while the tradition of bee-keeping dates back to the ancient Greeks and Romans, who considered Maltese honey to be a prized delicacy. Later, under Arabic rule, the Maltese were introduced to new crops, such as carob, figs and citrus fruits.

Under British rule the importance of agriculture as a whole began to decline as a range of new sectors were introduced, attracting a large proportion of the rural population.

Today, the Maltese agro-food industry is tiny in comparison to its European neighbours. Agricultural production and fisheries account for a little less than 2% of Malta’s GDP and 2.9% of total employment, but the industry remains culturally important to the economy. Moreover, with consumers increasingly favouring organic and traditional foods, Malta’s agricultural and fisheries sector is set to gain. Indeed, the island boasts major strengths of local produce including the indigenous grape varieties of Æellewÿa and Ghirghentina, which are producing some excellent wines of distinct body and flavour as well as other produce such as local potato, citrus, carob, figs, strawberries, tomatoes, honey, pomegranate, and olives as well as the small Malta June pear just to mention a few.

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Credit: Brian Grech - Fernandõ

LOCAL

PORK

Credit: Sean Mallia - Tarragon

The same goes for specific agricultural products including local pork. Pork is the most widely eaten meat in the world, accounting for about 38% of meat production worldwide. Its consumption is nothing less in Malta. It is indeed a staple of local diet with various traces of pork footprint in products such as zalzett Malti (Maltese sausage), mazzita (black pudding) and xikel tal-majjal (tripe). Pork was also a key component of local traditional dishes including, kawlata and majjal il-forn. Besides this, there is the consumption of charcuterie products. Although pork is restricted due to food culture as well as religious restrictions and health issues, pork remains a staple of local diet.

The constant growth in pork popularity, has seen several young chefs experimenting with different cuts some of which even representing local pork dishes. Indeed, the new generation is much more aware of its abilities and the quality of its raw material which has inevitably led to several individuals in the food industry taking local pork to another level. Some have also crossed the line experimenting with smoking, curing and salting. Roderick Vella and Rafel Sammut are true ambassadors of local pork and have in recent years promoted the concept of artisan charcuterie by developing the local version of coppa, sopressata di testa and guanciale. It goes without saying that such a niche sector offers several challenges including the island’s climatic conditions.

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FISH Being an island, fish is part of our culinary strength. A case in point is lampuki which is available at the end of the summer season. Notwithstanding its popularity, it is often underutilised. Various chefs including Malcolm Bartolo, chef patron of Townhouse No. 3 believe that it is a pity as it offers so many cooking options. Indeed, he is correct. I do recollect that during an interview with the former French Ambassador accredited to Malta had commended the exceptional taste and presentation of a lampuki tartar she tasted in Marsaxlokk.

Fish is another sector which local chefs are taking to another level. Indeed, the Schiavone brothers, owners of Tartarun have recently delved into the experimentation of fish charcuterie. Cured smoked Amberjack, chorizo spiced fish ham, swordfish bacon and citrus cured salmon and little tunny are some of the fine fish charcuterie the Schiavone brothers are currently working on.

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SEA SALT

Photo credit: www.scandinaviantraveler.com

And what about local salt? Sea salt harvesting is probably Malta’s oldest industry. It dates back to the Roman times and became popular during the time of the Knights of St. John. Its large scale production started in the 19th century. Today, the sea salt harvesting industry has reduced significantly. Indeed, although there are around 40 salt pans remaining, only a few working salt pans are left in Malta and Gozo. The most famous active salt pans in Gozo are those situated in Xwejni. Sadly, local sea salt has often been taken for granted and very little appreciation is given to the value it offers and its distinctiveness. This has led to a situation where we are at risk to lose such a longstanding industry. Chef George Borg notes, “A simple Caprese salad complemented with a dash of local olive oil and a pinch orange flavoured salt will make the trick. Alone, it tells a very limited story yet when you present it together with other elements it creates a different concept. It is about creating the right experience.”

Credit: Sean Mallia

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A VITICULTURAL TRAIL

Wine is also key player in Malta’s agri-food trail. The demand for Maltese wines is growing increasingly, so it’s no surprise that many brands’ supply sell out completely within a few months of bottling. While Maltese grapegrowing has got ancient roots, the country’s wine manufacturing is fledgling, and contemporary viticultural practices were developed only recently. Features of vineyards in Malta and Gozo are very small properties, averaging about a third of a hectare per vineyard.

Incomparable high sunlight hours, calcareous soil, normal to rather high temperatures during the vegetative season,

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dry summers and controlled rescue irrigation and fresh sea breeze all over the islands all underwrite a premium class grape crops, apposite for manufacturing high end superior wines.

There has been a substantial improvement in the quality of local wine produced. This is mainly due to a heavy investment by producers in research and development, the production process and in the grape itself. The island has also experienced a significant growth in boutique wines too.

OLIVE

OIL The link between Malta and the olive trees cultivation dates back to over two thousand years ago. It was introduced on the island by the Phoenicians and was further developed by the Romans. The olive oil production suffered an arrest during the British rule yet in the early nineties, olive cultivation was rediscovered.

There are nine oil mills and the varieties of cultivars on the island, which are usually imported from Italy.

However, there still is a “native” quality: the Bidni. The ‘Bidni’ variety is endemic to Malta but, until just 10 years ago, it was virtually unknown, with the tree thriving only in a stretch of woodland between Bidnija and Wardija.

On average, a ‘Bidni’ harvest produces less olive oil when compared to other varieties, particularly as the fruit is picked very early on in the season Notwithstanding olive oil production in Malta is growing, it is still not well appreciated. Several producers feel that the government needs to invest in measures which seek to protect and promote local produce. Unless there is such a strong push from the government's end, respect and appreciation towards local produce will be poor.

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FORAGING Recently we have noticed a resurgence in the concept of foraging for food. The practice of hand gathering plants and animals for bait, money or the table has long taken place, but more recently top chefs have been popularising the idea.

Wild plants are highly nutritious, a good source of several vitamins, minerals, fibre, antioxidants, and phytochemicals which protect one’s body from ageing and pollutants.

Consumption of wild plants is economically sound. Being self-propagating, growing unaided, and fully adapted to our local climate and soils, they do not require expensive irrigation systems, substantial amounts of water, chemical treatments, construction of greenhouses, and long hours of manual labour in order to flourish. Some of the wild plants available on the island inlcude; sea beet, nettle, caper and Mediterranean asparagus.

The major challenge with foraging is that it is limited and there is a lot of ignorance on the subject. Sustainable foraging if done well offers the possibility to give value to something natural. Having said that, there is a risk of a wipeout of indigenous plants.

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A WAY FORWARD FOR MALTA’S FOOD TRAIL

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Credit: Brian Grech - Susurrus

Over the past years, significant efforts were made both by the individuals, the private sector and the government to develop Malta’s food trail. The quality level of local produce including olive oil, pork, wine has improved significantly. The island also continues to enjoy a strong reputation in the production of potato and tuna just to mention a few.

The islands local trail has been reinforced thanks to a pool of talent the island boasts in the food industry. Their input is not only appreciated in what they create but also in their ability to create amazing dishes which exalt local produce. The efforts of leading local chefs such as Rafel Sammut, Hany Harb, Carl Zahra, Andre Borg, Letizia Vella and James Schiavone just to mention a few to exalt the strengths of local produce are are important for the development of Malta’s food trail. The same can be said about the impeccable work of Victor Borg, Jonathan Brincat, Joe Vella, Robert Cassar, Damian Ciappara and Andrew Borg. Malta’s gastronomic trail has so much to offer even beyond our shores. The work of Matthew Carabott, David Vidal and Marvin Gauci is a clear proof of how far it can go. Andrew Vella, chef patron of Rebekah recently noted, “Despite the challenge local produce offers, it is all about one’s ability to handle it in the right manner.

You need to know its roots, its context and above all, its strengths and weaknesses. Once equipped with such knowledge, you are in a position to get the best out of the product.”

The introduction of key quality standards in the industry have helped significantly. The introduction of the wine quality scheme framework based on the EU system for quality wines, which allows vintners and local wine producers to flag certified wines, either as DOK or IGT wines according to EU and local regulations is a case in point. Michelin’s recent recognition of Malta as a worthy world-class foodie destination is also another key step for the development of Malta’s food trail.

Nevertheless there is more to be done in various sectors including the local wine industry. Various leading local wine connoisseurs such as Fabien Etienne believe that Malta’s growth in the viticultural is still conditioned by a negative perception for local wines. He notes that consumers still prefer an Italian wine rather than a local wine. Recent research has also shown that there is a certain lack of knowledge about wine certification among the Maltese.

Fabien believes, “With a proper education campaign focusing mainly on the young generation, Malta can create a culture favouring local wines.” He also believes that Malta needs to understand the opportunities the international market offers to local wines and invest further into key mediums that will raise interest in local wine.

“Malta needs to step up its level and ensure a proper visibility for its wines abroad. Countries like Croatia, Bulgaria, and Slovenia are stepping up their wine, Malta has not yet made such a leap forward.”

As regards to food, there has been a significant leap forward yet a more coherent strategy is required.

There is also a dire need for further investment in terms of education. Indeed, the development of a nation’s food culture depends on a country’s ability to disseminate and evolve its culinary roots through education. Indeed, at the heart of every country boasting rich food traditions lie leading culinary academic institutions including Le Cordon Bleu and École Lenôtre in France, Academia Barilla in Italy, Hattori Nutrition College in Japan, the Culinary Institute of America in the US and Tante Marie Culinary Academy in the UK. In this context, the Institute of Tourism Studies as well as private entities such as the Mediterranean Culinary Academy can play a key role. The government can also helping this endeavour by riding on the country’s achievements and create a more structured marketing strategy to promote what Malta can offer in such an important sector.

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INTERVIEW WITH THE

HON. CLAYTON BARTOLO MINISTER FOR TOURISM & CONSUMER PROTECTION What are your main priorities for the industry?

My main priorities consist of having all resources and structures in place to be able to commence the recovery of tourism immediately, once the restrictions caused by COVID-19 start to lift. Malta needs to hit the ground running so that it will be in the best possible position to start re-growing tourist numbers in volumes which are consistent with tourism supplier needs. History has shown that tourism is a very resilient industry which has amazing powers of recovery. This crisis has admittedly been the toughest and most prolonged one faced by the global economy. Recovering from it necessitates that we as a country focus on achieving best results ahead of our competitors by exercising our traditional fast decision-making and flexibility when it comes to competing in tourism. We shall be focused, clear, proactive and well prepared.

A tourism action plan will be released early next year after broad consultation with stakeholders on the way forward. What is the aim of the action plan and how will it ensure a better way forward?

We are at an advanced stage in drafting a Tourism Strategy which will take us forward. The Strategy has the dual objective of not only recovering our tourism industry to get back to pre-pandemic levels of tourism activity, but to simultaneously address those external and domestic elements which detract from the maximisation of tourism’s socio-economic contribution so that we will eventually end up with an industry which has not only recovered, but is actually built on stronger foundations, shorn of slack which it inadvertently picked over the years of rapid growth that the destination experienced over the past few years.

The action plan stresses on excellence. How can the industry focus on quality whilst striking a balance with

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numbers and keeping in mind the challenges of the COVID-19?

Excellence and quality are not to be confused with luxury.

Excellence and quality pertain to all levels and classes of the tourism value chain irrespective of who they are being sold to. Excellence and quality lead to the delivery of value for money thereby inducing our tourists to not only spend more during their visit but to come back as repeat visitors and entice others to visit. Excellence and quality should not be optional extras in our tourism offer but must be embedded into anything we offer to our esteemed tourists. Furthermore, excellence and quality are not only about the physical product but also about levels of service and hospitality. We must never forget that tourism is ultimately a hospitality industry and the granting of higher than expected levels of hospitality go a very long way towards ensuring that our visitors leave our shores with a very good experience which they will equate with excellence.

How can the Institute of Tourism Studies play a key role to ensure excellence?

A lot of good work has been done at ITS in recent years.

Significant funds have been invested in a new campus in Luqa, equipment, teaching tools, latest technology as well as in the human resources of the Institute. The program of courses offered has been gradually renewed to reflect the needs of the tourism industry of today and that of tomorrow. This process is ongoing. Affiliations and cooperation agreements with internationally renowned Tourism Institutes and Applied Sciences Universities have been set up, and the students as well as the lecturers are benefitting from these international learning experiences. Only earlier this week, 17 lecturers from ITS graduated with a Masters in International Hospitality Management from Haaga-Helia University of Finland. This shall undoubtedly continue to raise the high learning standards at the Institute. ITS has always been an important link in Malta’s tourism industry and my objective is to see that ITS shall be a prime catalyst in preparing more young men and women to join and drive the government’s strategy to attract more and more quality tourism in the years ahead.

Michelin have recognized Malta as a worthy world-class foodie destination. What are the next steps forward for the local food industry?

Up until recently, we did not have any Michelin star restaurants on the island. Today we have three, with another twenty or so included in the Michelin guide. This is a stamp of quality that indicates how our restaurant sector is upgrading its levels. This is a positive trend which has seen the gradual improvement in quality of service, variety of cuisines and upgrading of establishments across the board. This Ministry has encouraged this ongoing improvement over the years and will continue to do so through various initiatives. The Malta Tourism Authority, for instance, has for the past few years managed the Quality Assured scheme, which includes restaurants as well as other categories of establishments, which must meet certain minimum criteria to obtain this seal of quality. Renewal is not automatic, which means that restaurants must strive to maintain their standards in order to retain their Quality mark. Another interesting food-related initiative that MTA is actively supporting is the Taste History project which aims to bring back traditional dishes and flavours of the past, of which there is plenty of documentary evidence in our archives and museums, and onto the dinner table. This project, spearheaded by Heritage Malta, has already yielded a number of videos and other materials that

are being used to promote Malta as a culinary destination in our major markets. Going forward, we foresee the need for our restaurants to cater for the tastes and expectations of a more discerning clientele - a clientele which seeks authenticity and quality in everything that will put more emphasis on local produce including wines, olive oil and cheeses, give more importance to sustainable practices such as a ‘farmto-fork’ or ‘farm-to-table’ approach and a ‘zero kilometre’ choice of ingredients. As our visitors become increasingly environmentally conscious, our product has to follow suit.

What makes Malta stand out of such a busy crowd today?

Malta has a number of attributes which, when taken separately might not be unique – a rich history heritage, an enviably mild climate, beautiful clean sea, a diverse landscape, a colourful folklore and genuine hospitality. But when taken together as one holistic destination product, these render our island quite special. One has to start by asking the question, ‘Why do people travel?, and of course there are a number of reasons, not just one. If we leave business travel out of the equation for a moment, even though this segment is an important one for Malta, particularly in the field of MICE, and focus on leisure or holiday travel alone, we find that the motivation for going abroad for a week or two varies from country to country, as well as by season. Most of the summer traffic for Malta, which is our high season, originates primarily from Europe and seeks the typical Mediterranean sun and sea experience, which the Maltese Islands are well equipped to provide. Winter visitors are more likely to be drawn by a city-break experience, an interest in culture and history, gastronomy, or active pursuits, although the warmer climate that we enjoy during these months also plays an important part. Then there are other motivational factors that may prompt visitors to chose Malta over other destinations. The fact that Malta is English-speaking and that we have developed an advanced and reputable EFL sector means that many choose our islands to learn or improve their English. Diving is another major segment with Malta, Gozo and Comino being a world-class scuba diving destination. Other motivational segments include Weddings and Honeymoons, Religious or Pilgrim Travel, Film Tourism, Sports, Events, amongst others, for which Malta has a good product to offer. Moreover, when one considers the compact size of the islands which make it possible to our visitors to fit in much more quality time during their stay rather than waste it getting from one place to another. Therefore, it is not surprising that Malta has managed to stand out.

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When a chef met a hunter...

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n a cold sunny autumn afternoon, a local chef, Marvin Gauci met a hunter, Lucas Micallef. After a short chat, they quickly realized that they had so much in common.

Above all, they shared a passion to do what they love - ambitiously and unapologetically. This created an interesting opportunity to celebrate the vast natural resources offered by nature.

Indeed, inspired by the endless bounty of wildlife, hunting, and foraging, the two teamed up to organise an exclusive culinary experience which brings together the undisputed culinary talent of Marvin Gauci and the experience of Lucas in the field of game hunting.

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Lucas Micallef is an avid hunter with vast experience in pursuing game and making sustainable use of natural resources. At an early age Lucas always loved exploring the outdoors, spending so much time outside helped him develop a good understanding of wildlife. From a very young age, Lucas had his first hunting experience, and from that day on he couldn’t think of anything else.

He roamed the continent experiencing different cultures we embrace as Europeans. Lucas is the Public Relations Officer for the Federation for Hunting & Conservation - Malta. Recently Lucas has been appointed official programme co-ordinator by Caccia e Pesca (SKY Italy) for Malta and coordinated documentary series for Fieldsports Channel. He has a particular passion for hunting game with gun dogs, preferably pointers, although he respects any form of hunting practice as long as it is sustainable. He is also Editor-in-Chief of an international hunting publication - HUNT magazine.

On the other hand, Marvin Gauci is Malta’s culinary enfant terrible. A chef and restauranteur of undoubted greatness. A magician in the kitchen who is always ready to pull out of his hat something amazing. His work plays on a very fine line which distinguishes what

is defined as logical from what may be regarded as extravagant, nonconformist, and unconventional. He is focused and uncompromising. Irrespective of whether critics like his work or not, they all agree that he is a genius, an exponent of local talent and a champion of excellence. Indeed, people who are well-versed with the culinary industry know that one doesn’t need to describe what this man is capable of doing. His journey started at a very tender age in his mother’s kitchen and has gradually evolved through his experiences in various local and foreign kitchens, through his extensive travels around the world and through his constant interaction with people.

The exclusive culinary experience will be held in early in 2021 and seeks to exalt local game and local foraging. The event also seeks to shed light on the importance of game hunting as one of the oldest forms of consumptive use of renewable natural resources. It also seeks to highlight the importance of game hunting from a social, cultural, economic and environmental perspective.

Moreover, the dinner is an opportunity for all food enthusiasts to better understand the world of foraging and what our island can offer in terms of wild produce.

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Bringing you Asian Fusion in the heart of Valletta

Ramen - Sushi Noodles - Wagyu Burgers - Cocktails 24

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M. 7942 5123

FROM THE FARM TO THE FORK Malta’s Culinary Ambassadors

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DAVID

VIDAL DAVID VIDAL grew up in Malta, where his uncle owned a confectionary. His father worked alongside his uncle everyday. It was David’s favourite hangout and also where he began to nurture his passion… cooking.

He studied in Malta at the Institute of Tourism Studies and later was taught by some great teachers. His education and job searches led to overseas, where he honed his skills cooking in hotels and restaurants throughout Europe.

David has been working in Strömstad for the last 15 years.

As the sous chef, he has been on every station and has a deep rapport with his fellow chefs and kitchen staff. David adapts to where he is, always looking to create something new and innovative that he can share with the world.

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How did your connection with food start?

My connection with food started at a young age. I always enjoyed watching my dad making cakes for special family occasions in Canada. When we moved to Malta, my dad started working in my uncle’s confectionary in Luqa and after school and on weekends I always used to go and help him with pastries, cakes and making ravioli. That’s when I realised that I wanted to work in the food industry. At first my thoughts were to work solely with pastry, but after starting at the Institute of Tourism Studies, I realised that I wanted to be a chef and work with all types of dishes along with pastry.

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How would you describe your style of cooking?

My cooking tends to be Mediterranean with hints of Swedish cuisine. When I started to work in Sweden I was still choosing to cook Mediterranean food when I was given the choice to decide what was to be cooked. But after a couple of years working here I started to use more and more Swedish ingredients. I like to use different textures in my dishes as I think that’s a very important part in cooking.

What encouraged you to choose Sweden as your next destination?

It wasn’t a hard choice since my wife is Swedish, but of course being one of the best countries to live in didn’t do any harm either. What encouraged me also was that at the time I moved, when I followed certain food competitions, Sweden were always around the top of the list of teams winning medals, and when reading about certain restaurants I thought that the standards must be pretty high.

What are the major challenges of leaving your country to pursue a career abroad?

When I left Malta to work in Sweden I was a bit nervous.

The first challenge to overcome was the language. I think it’s very important if you are planning to move to a different country, try to understand and speak the native language. It makes life much easier. Another challenge was the cuisine.

It is important to keep the influences which you were brought up with but to also keep an open mind and be able to adapt to different types of cuisines and techniques common in these kitchens.

Why is it important for local prospective chefs to look beyond local shores?

I don’t really think it is that important as I believe that one can stay in Malta and still have a good career in the catering business. The way I see it is that it is beneficial to see other things and learn different stuff. It’s a good learning opportunity to work abroad. The only thing I can think of as to why one should work abroad instead of Malta is the working conditions.

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COCONUT, PASSION FRUIT,

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COCONUT SORBET 180ml Water 100g Sugar 20g Glucose 1 Vanilla 368g Coconut Cream 20g Lime In a pot bring everything to the boil.

Take off the heat and leave for 30 minutes covered to let the vanilla bean infuse. Bring to the heat again and strain through a chinois. Place in a pacojet canister and freeze for 24 hours or 4 hours in a blast freezer.

COCONUT MOUSSE 150g Coconut Purée 68g Icing Sugar 250g Cream 2.5pcs Gelatine Leaves 1 Vanilla Bean Put the gelatine into a bowl of water.

Split and scrape the vanilla and whip with the cream until soft peaks making sure it’s not over whipped.

Whisk in lightly the icing sugar and coconut purée keeping back a little of the coconut purée to mix with the gelatine. In a small pot place in the gelatine squeezing out all the water from the gelatine and the remainder of the coconut purée. Heat up gently just until the gelatine has melted and gently whisk into the cream mixture.

Pipe into mould and freeze.

YUZU CURD 340g Yuzu Purée 260g Sugar 100g Cold Butter 3tbsp Cornflour 4 Eggs 4 Egg Yolks

Place the yuzu purée, cornflour and sugar in a pot and bring to the boil, cooking until the purée has become a thick cream. In the meantime whisk together the eggs with the egg yolks.

Chop the butter into small pieces.

When yuzu purée is ready, mix into the container with the eggs. Pour back into the pot and cook to 82°C. Cool down to 40°C and mix in the butter.

Place in a piping bag and keep until needed.

PASSION FRUIT GEL 250g Passion Fruit Purée 20g Gelcrem Cold (sosa) 50g Icing Sugar Using a hand blender, mix all ingredients together in a smooth gel.

Leave to swell for 10 minutes and mix again. If needed pass through chinois. Store in a piping bag in the fridge.

YELLOW GLAZE 150g Water 305g Sugar 305g Glucose 22g Gelatine Leaves 305g White Chocolate 170g Condensed Milk 4g Yellow Powder Colour 1g Silver Powder Colour 150g Absolut Kristal Start soaking in cold water the gelatine. Bring to the boil the sugar, water, glucose and powdered colours, cook to 103°C. Squeeze out the excess water from the gelatine and add the gelatine to the water mix.

Pour the mixture over the chocolate, mix and add the milk and absolut kristal. Mix well and use when at 37°C.

MERINGUES 6 Egg Whites 450g Sugar 150ml Water Lemon Juice Place the sugar and water together into a pot and bring up to 118°C. While the water and sugar is cooking, in a kitchen aid start to whip the egg whites to soft peaks. When soft peaks are achieved add a couple of drops of lemon juice to stabilize the meringue.

When the sugar has reached 118°C, take off heat and slowly add the syrup to the whisking egg whites.

When all the mixture is in, turn up the kitchen aid and keep whisking until meringue is cooled down and stiff.

Pipe meringues onto a silpat. Place in a oven at 100°C for about an hour or in a dehydrator.

ASSEMBLEY: Heat up glaze to 37°C. Release the coconut mousse when fully frozen and glaze them. Using two toothpicks clean the rings from the excess glaze and dip in roasted coconut. Start plating the dessert starting with the glazed mousse giving it about 10 minutes to defrost. Continue with the yuzu curd, passion gel, meringues, roasted coconut, atsina cress and chocolate decoration. Finish by quenelling the sorbet onto the plate.

ALSO NEEDED: Chocolate Decoration Atsina Cress Roasted Coconut

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MARTIN

CARABOTT Martin, 30, studied at the Institute of Tourism Studies in Malta, his home country, during which interned at the Gleneagles hotel in Scotland, where he returned after graduating.

At Gleneagles, he completed stages in the two Michelin starred restaurant Andrew Fairlie.

During his time in Hide, Martin won the most prestigious cooking competition in the UK, the Roux Scholarship, becoming the competition’s 35th winner. And as a result, he worked for three months at Eleven Madison Park, 3 Michelin stars, best restaurant in the world 2017.

He also competed in and was successful in various national culinary events before moving to London to work at the Lanesborough Hotel’s Michelin starred Apsley’s restaurant, then run by Chef Heinz Beck.

Whilst in London, he also worked at the Royal Automobile Club, Luca Restaurant and now at Hide Restaurant which won its first Michelin star within five months of opening under Chef Ollie Dabbous.

Whilst in London, he participated in prestigious events such as The Craft Guild of Chefs National Chef of the Year, placing third in the final in 2015, winning the CSMA of Great Britain Award for Culinary Excellence and achieving the Royal Academy of Culinary Arts Award of Excellence in 2014, and the British Culinary Federation Chef of the Year which he won in 2016.

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What attracted you to the world of food?

I’ve always loved food, everyone in my family does even though no one in my family works in hospitality. But what drew me in was when I started to try recipes at home and some of them turned out ok. I loved the creative side of it more than anything and when I started seeing at how this is done professionally as a business, I never had any thoughts about pursuing anything else.

You had the opportunity to work in several leading food outlets. How have such experiences helped you develop your own professional career?

It helped me massively! Every new place you work in, whatever your position is, you will end up experiencing things which you end up utilising in the future. One of the places which gave me a big boost was Eleven Madison Park as it helped me build a lot on my style of cooking which is minimalist in terms of initial looks, but delivers in terms of flavour. There I learnt a lot of techniques which build upon classical cuisine but refine and modernise it to deliver a very confident and sharp end result.

How would you define your style of cooking?

I’d probably describe it as Modern European. Nowadays there are influences from all over the world and it shows in what everyone around is cooking. When I approach creating something, I always look at what is at its best at that moment and start with asking myself how would I like to eat that? And that’s when techniques I’ve picked up here and there come into play. I always aim for the same end result; simplistic, delicious and does justice to the ingredients. The simpler and unassuming something looks often shows more confidence.

How do your Maltese roots fit into your kitchen?

This is reflected in a lot of the things I cook; often doing less to something makes it more enjoyable to eat, something which is very much in line with how we like to cook, eat and for that matter do anything in Malta. This should not be interpreted as simple meaning easy; it takes years of experience to know what techniques work best and where and to judge when less is more.

What’s next on your agenda?

Before Covid-19 cases grew and the UK went into lockdown earlier this year, I was on my way to become Head Chef in a Michelin starred West London restaurant, which, as I am now relocating to a different area is something which I have had to let go, but the next stage for me is heading up a kitchen at this level. I am in no rush as I enjoy working with Ollie (Dabbous) at Hide and would rather wait for the right thing to come along.

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DAMIAN

CIAPPARA Chef DAMIAN CIAPPARA is the head chef and owner of Commando restaurant, with over 20 years of culinary experience. Damian Ciappara has followed on the footsteps of his parents.

After having studied with Michelin starred chefs in the UK, he took in hand the reigns of Commando Restaurant giving it a clear identity and turning the outlet into one of the best fine dining restaurants on the island. The secret behind his success was his determination to take the family to a different level, his discipline in the kitchen and his approach with the other team members.

Chef Damian Ciappara leads the brilliant team at Commando. Even on the busiest of days, this small team operates smoothly and in perfect coordination, like a finely-crafted timepiece.

The menu is carefully assembled to represent

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both the traditional and the experimental, presenting a variety of delightful tastes, textures and colours, while daily specials add a sprinkle of excitement and novelty for regulars.

Every plate is an interpretation of art and a gastronomically game which plays with aromas and flavours. His cuisine spells out the unique beauty of Mediterranean cuisine. Chef Ciappara shared with us the salient stages of his culinary career to date and his views on the industry.

Indeed, his style of cooking is very basic and classic. Indeed, each dish is pretty much based on French classic dishes with the use of Mediterranean additions and flavours. ​ In March 2020 Commando was awarded by the Michelin Guide with a Bib Gourmand, becoming one of just three restaurants in the Maltese Islands to hold this distinction.

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How did your career as a chef unfold?

Is there any special recipe for a successful restaurant?

My career in the food industry unfolded at a very young age when I used to follow my parents work in our family run restaurant - Commando Restaurant. The twenty-five year old restaurant was originally a bar and restaurant serving family home style cooking for locals and tourists. I just loved the feeling of watching people being served food prepared by our own kitchen. I saw this as something I could do one day and even take it to another level, and so I did.

I believe in serving dishes that you feel comfortable cooking, and maintain high standards and consistency. Keep working hard and improve, listen to customers’ feedback and make them feel important. Make all of your employees feel important and create a wonderful working environment. Manage the restaurant with passion as if it was always day one.

How would you describe your style of cooking?

This is a very simple question to answer but unfortunately not so simple to follow. I tell all young chefs to learn the basic and foundations of the kitchen. Learn the basics until you are able to reach perfection and then start building on them.

Remember that all the master chefs that you see on TV and professional cookbooks, they have come a long way and worked very hard to be there.

My style of cooking is very basic and classic. I would say they are pretty much French based classic dishes with the use of Mediterranean additions and flavours. I love using dishes that stood the test of time. You cannot reinvent the wheel; you just can make it look different.

Any advice you would give to someone wanting to become a chef?

Who were the biggest inspirations in your career?

Biggest inspirations are definitely my family, my wife, my mother-inlaw and two great chefs that taught me a lot in my culinary profession namely Chef Paul Borg (current executive chef at DB Seabank Resort & Spa) and Chef Simon Hulstone (chef proprietor at The Elephant Restaurant in Torquay, UK).

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HANY

HARB HANY HARB is an acclaimed Lebanese chef, restaurateur and author based in Malta. Together with his wife Claudienne Harb, he runs the Ali Baba and Baba group of restaurants, which offer an authentic Lebanese culinary experience inspired by contemporary dining styles.

Having started from the very bottom of the food industry, Hany held onto the dream of owning and running his very own chain of restaurants. His determination to create his very own culinary project further developed during the years he spent travelling around Europe and South America, where he worked alongside Michelinstarred chefs. Hany still travel extensively to learn more about cultures, cuisines and ingredients, while also researching and perfecting new culinary techniques.

On the other hand, his passion to share Lebanese culture through cuisine was acquired closer to home; directly from his mother Nadra and his father Abdul Rahman, who were the first to serve authentic Lebanese dishes to diners in Malta way back in 1987.

Today, Hany is the chef-patron of Ali Baba and with the help of his wife Claudienne, they have overseen the outlet’s radical transformation from deli shop to one of Malta’s foremost establishments specialised in Lebanese cuisine.

Hidden in a busy street in the heart of Gżira, Ali Baba is a unique experience of sublime Lebanese food. Indeed, Ali Baba is considered by many local and foreign food critics as one of the best eateries on the island and a true representation of Lebanese food excellence.

There is an age-old tradition of warm hospitality that exists in Lebanese culture.

Lebanese hosts will never believe you don’t have just a bit more room for something utterly delicious that’s been prepared with love. In a Lebanese household, food is life and sharing it is one of the great joys of being alive. That is what Lebanese food traditions are all about. That is what Ali Baba stands for today.

Hany seeks to reach new heights in the local food industry and with the opening of BABA in 2020, a street food outlet and delivery service, the Hany Harb group is ready to spread its wings even further.

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How would you define your style?

My style is contemporary mainly Lebanese influenced with cuisines from the countries I visited in my travelling education and inspiration.

Tell us about your background in cooking and what inspired you to take over a Lebanese restaurant in Malta?

We were a family of three including my father and my mother when we moved to Malta in the 80’s.

My culinary skills were handed over to me by my mother Nadra when it comes to pastry while I inherited my father’s charm in hospitality. I do not have much free time, however, I always take my inspiration from books of great chefs. I visit a lot of restaurants from around the world ranging from local cuisines to 3 Michelin starred ones. I have also gained a lot of experience from the places I have worked in, including a 2 Michelin star restaurant in Scotland. Some of the recipes come up during a simple chat with my wife and son.

Why has Lebanese food internationalized so well?

FLAVOUR... Every cuisine is special in its own way. Spices and herbs are considered as main ingredients in our dishes. The Lebanese cuisine is also considered as a healthy one because it includes many earth ingredients - vegetables, pulses and nuts. Extra virgin olive oil is used abundantly to further enhance the taste of most dishes. Last but not least, the sharing concept has been embraced very well!

You do travel extensively with your family.

Which cuisine do you love most?

It depends. As I said, all cuisines are special if passion and love are part of the ingredients. Personally I am always impressed by French cuisine.

Any projects in the pipeline?

Yes opening end of this year BABA take away a Lebanese street food concept.

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MARVIN

GAUCI MARVIN GAUCI is a chef and restauranteur from Malta. He also serves as the chief chef of the Dinner in the Sky in Malta. Gauci is the Ambassador of Gastronomy, serving as an official representative in foreign and domestic affairs for Malta.

After completing secondary school, Gauci started his formal education at the Institute for Tourism Studies. In 1997, he travelled to Ireland to pursue his career where he worked first 6 months in a catering service before joining the Buswells Hotel which is a Georgian hotel that dates back to 1882 and is located next to the Dáil in Dublin, Ireland.

Later he came back to Malta where he opened his first restaurant, Wild Thyme in Xemxija. Then he started operating four of Malta’s most successful eateries. In 2007 he launched Tarragon in St Paul’s Bay followed

by Caviar&Bull in 2014 that is located in Saint Julian’s and Buddhamann in 2015 which was later closed and replaced with a new restaurant named Susurrus and recently launched Don Royale.

In 2016, Marvin joined the Dinner in the Sky as a chef in Malta which is a novelty restaurant service that uses a crane to hoist its diners, table, and waiting staff 150 feet (46 m) into the air and has been named as one of the world’s ten most unusual restaurants by the Forbes magazine. In the following year he joined the historic hotel, Corinthia Hotel Budapest.

He has collaborated with chef Ferran Adrià and worked in Hakkasan, Skylon, Santini and Novikov up-market restaurants in central London and cooked in different restaurants in Greece, France, Italy, Spain, Ireland, Austria and the UK. He was the chief chef for the Commonwealth Heads of Government Meeting 2018.

In 2018, Marvin was awarded the Best Chef of the Year by the Best of Budapest and Hungary Awards organization.

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BLACK BREAM INGREDIENTS: For the Black Bream 220gr Black Bream filleted For the Sauce 1kg Tomato chopped 1kg Onion chopped 100ml Tamarind Sauce 100gr Fish Masala 1L Fish Stock 100ml Coconut Milk 50gr Ginger Garlic Paste For the Garnish 1pc Pea Shoot 1pc Banana Leaf 1 Lemon wedge 10gr Fried Onion

METHOD: For the Fish • Fillet the fish, remove the bones and keep the fillets in the fridge. Seal the fillet in a pan before serving. Use the bones to make the fish stock by boiling them in water for 20 minutes. For every 1kg of fish bones add 1.5L mineral water.

For the Sauce • Cook the garlic and the onion on low heat for 30 minutes. Add the rest of the ingredients except the fish stock and cook them for another 5 minutes. Now, add the fish stock. Blend the sauce, strain, and add coconut milk. Boil it for 2 minutes.

PLATING: • Serve the fillet of fish wrapped in the banana leaf together with the pea shoot, lemon wedge and fried onion and the sauce.

Credit: Sean Mallia

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How did you come into cooking?

How do you get your inspiration?

I started at a very young age working in a grocer preparing bread with ham and cheese. A very humble start yet which instilled in me a determination to succeed in the my life.

Following my time there, I had the opportunity to work in several local hotels which helped me develop my career in the food industry. I moved to Ireland where I had the opportunity to manage my very own business. Indeed, I had the opportunity to run a small golf club kitchen. On my return to Malta I pursued the entreprenuerial journey opening Wild Thyme. It was a success which triggered me to embark on other projects namely Tarragon, Caviar&Bull, Buddhamann and later Susurrus and Don Royale.

I am very much of a goal driven person with a strong ambition to stand out of the crowd. It is this premise that keeps me going every day and drives me to pursue higher goals.

Tell us about your work. What do you like most, least?

My job is complex, demanding and touches on a thousand matters. Every restaurant is different from the other, each with its own character, needs and challenges. Notwithstanding the stress my work takes me through, I love it and cannot imagine my life in a different way.

I definitely love the social side of my work. It gives me the opportunity to interact with people, feel their happiness for good food and service and appreciate regular customers.

On the other hand, I am not too fond of disorganisation and staff who underperform hindering the work of their colleagues.

What do you think is the most challenging ingredient to work with?

A chef should not have any challenging ingredient. There is always a way to work around any ingredient.

What is the most challenging part of running a restaurant?

There are quite a few! Challenges range from managing and sourcing good people to handling suppliers. Not to mention the challenge of keeping up with international standards.

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AARON

DEGABRIELE Started his career 32 years ago as one of the first students at the Institute of Tourism Studies.

Graduated as ‘Best Student Chef’ following the food and preparation course, also graduated as ‘Master Chef’ by the University of Malta.

For the past 13 years he forms part of the trio of chefs hosting Malta’s popular cooking shows , Aroma Kitchen and Dine or Dishes.

With a baggage of more than 30 years of experience in the industry, he is currently Chef patron of Aaron’s Kitchen and Aaron’s City vault restaurants in Valletta.

He was awarded the ‘Micheline Guide’ recognition for quality plaque, which he values not just as a personal achievement but also a recognition to local cuisine, which he has so much at heart.

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BEETROOT TORTELLACI WITH CHICKPEAS INGREDIENTS: For the Dough

For the Filling

For the Sauce

Tortellaci Method

200g Cooked Beetroot 350g Flour 1 Egg Pinch of Salt 1 tbsp Olive Oil

2 cans Chickpeas 1 Garlic Clove 1 tsp Tahina Zest & Juice of 1 Lime 1 Red Chilli finely diced Chopped Parsley 1 mashed Sweet Potato

200g Pumpkin 1 Onion 2 tbs Butter 1tub Cream Grated Nutmeg Baby Spinach Hazelnuts

• Roll the dough into a 2mm thick sheet, cut into 6cm square shape, brush edges with water.

Method

Method

• Whizz all the ingredients together into a smooth paste, correct seasoning with salt and pepper.

• Peel and cut the pumpkin and onion, place in a sauce pan, season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, cover with cream and simmer until soft. Add a spoon full of butter and whizz into a smooth purée.

Method • Whizz the beetroot into a smooth purée, and in the egg and a pinch of salt.

• Add the olive oil and flour and knead into a stiff smooth dough.

• Pipe a blob of filling in the centre of the dough, flip over to a tangular shape.

Take in your hand, hold filled part with your finger and pinch edges around to form into a large tortellini shape.

• Bring a pot of water to boil. Cook the tortellaci in boiling water until they float to the top. Drain and transfer to a pan with the sauce sauté for 30 seconds until evenly dressed.

• Serve right away.

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LETIZIA

VELLA Young, bold, good looking, talented and with a pair of deep blue eyes which reflect a strong determination to succeed. Chef LETIZIA VELLA is one of Malta’s young talents who is gradually leaving its mark on the local food industry. Her sense of creativity, detail and ability to exalt local produce is impeccable. No dish is too little or too much. Every plate has that sense of perfection in terms of taste, colour and portion. Above all, her dishes portray her strong will to create something different, something good and something special without sacrificing that sense of simplicity which should always prevail in any dish presented.

Food means so much to her. It has the same feeling a painter has with his canvas, an actor has with the camera or a pianist has with his piano. She is in love with the profession. From a very tender age, she was attracted to those pots and pans hanging all around her mother’s kitchen, she was intrigued by the smell of freshly baked bread coming from the bakery close by and inspired by the smell of oven baked rice from her grandmother’s kitchen. Food piqued her curiosity, enticed her creativity and above all expressed her talent. After

completing her studies at the Institute of Tourism Studies, she had the opportunity to work as an intern at Heston Blumenthal’s three Michelin Star restaurant, The Fat Duck. Later, she also had the opportunity to work as Chef de Partie at Blumenthal’s Dinner by Heston. She considers her time spent in London as “a very enriching experience which helped me grow both from a professional and personal point of view. The opportunity to work close to such a genius and other talent in that kitchen helped me understand the importance of curiosity and experimentation. I also learnt that cooking is one thing, but the eating and the relationship with the food is what ties it together.” Following her stint abroad, Letizia was called to work in leading eateries in Malta.

Nevertheless, a fundamental element in her life to reach such heights in her career was certainly her family. They are her inspiration, her motivation and her guide in every decision she takes. Indeed, her family played a fundamental role in her decision to open her new restaurant, The Golden Fork.

Notwithstanding all the challenges the food industry offers, she took the plunge into the entrepreneurial world.

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What does food mean to you?

Food is a form of art, a means for expressing feelings. It’s a gastronomic experience that touches all the senses. The best satisfaction is seeing your guests sitting at their table happy, enjoying the food after spending hours of thoughts, preparation and dedication to present that plate.

How would you define your style?

I hold the classic foundations of cuisine dearly, thus I innovate upon this with new techniques and equipment which are constantly emerging. Whilst I consider my food to have a modern twist, it retains a string essence of traditional cuisine. Throughout my career I took every opportunity I had to develop my own style.

What can’t you do without in your kitchen?

A knife. I can prepare anything in the kitchen with a knife, be it meat, fish or vegetable.

Why is working abroad an important experience for any chef?

It provides you the opportunity to experience different cuisines, different techniques and cooking methods, whilst exposing you to talented individuals. Through this manner you learn hands on and develop your techniques even further. It provides you with the opportunity to become a stronger and better chef.

What’s next?

I just hope we continue building on our success. We face a long journey. And long it may be, but it is certainly beautiful!

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ANDREW

VELLA Andrew’s gradually developed his undisputed talent during his stints at the 2 Michelin Star Sea Grill Restaurant in Brussels, at The Radisson, Malta and at The Arches Restaurant. In each experience he created concepts which earned him a reputation as one of Malta’s best food talents.

Food was in his DNA from the onset. His family owned the Panorama Hotel in Mellieħa which saw him spend his early years in kitchen surrounded by pots and pans which developed in him an interest to know more about the world of food and above all to succeed in the industry.

His food journey took him to many places across the island and even abroad yet it seems he finally found his Zen at the Rebekah’s.

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What encouraged you to take over Rebekah’s?

After nineteen years working in different eateries, I felt it was the right time for me the run my very own place. It was not just a matter of running any place but rather to find the right outlet which would give me the opportunity to express my talent. Rebekah’s fit my narrative.

The moment I heard that Rebekah’s was on the market, I knew it was an opportunity I could not miss out on.

What changes have you introduced at Rebekah’s?

We refurbished it at the end of September last year. We altered the place from head to toe giving it a much-needed change and ensuring it reflects my own personality and philosophy. We have also changed the menu. Today, Rebekah’s offers an interesting selection of dishes which exalt local produce with a French touch and at times, even a slight dose of oriental flavours.

Tell us about your food philosophy.

Honouring nature. The more you keep food simple the more it is appreciated. If you work with a good product you will create a good dish.

In every dish, you need to make sure your own identity is visible yet at the right dose. Too little or too much can ruin an entire dish.

What are your thoughts about local produce?

Despite the challenge it offers, I believe it is all about one’s ability to handle it in the right manner. You need to know its roots, its context and above all, its strengths and weaknesses. Once equipped with such knowledge, you are in a position to get the best out of the product.

What’s next for you?

We are ambitious and want to achieve more.

The COVID-19 pandemic did not help us at all. It was a big blow yet with the help of the team and the unconditional support of my wife, Julie we are here working on new ideas for the months to come. Where there is a will, there is a way!

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The Preca sisters RAMONA & ROBERTA, used to work together in their family restaurant TalFamilja, in Marsaskala. By the time they were in their twenties they were already gastronomic veterans, having spent most of their childhood in their father Charles’s kitchen at the mythical King’s Own Band Club in Valletta.

This is also where you will find the heart of the Preca sisters’ culinary genius. Palazzo Preca is just a stone’s throw away from the sea which provides fish, shellfish and crustaceans. Gozo lies just across the water , where their inspirations grows in the form of beautiful, firm bunches of succulent grapes.

It was there that they developed their talent under the watchful eye of their father.

In Marsaskala, Ramona developed a longing to create a new culinary meeting point, which turned out to be Palazzo Preca Restaurant located in a 16th century palace in Strait Street at the centre of the capital.

“Our food represents the soul of Maltese Mediterranean cuisine,” says Ramona. “Shellfish, garlic and fresh herbs.. a dish that brings a magical feast to the table.”

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&

RAMONA ROBERTA

PRECA Tell us about your career path. How did you start?

Can you tell us more about the book you just launched?

I believe it was a natural decision for me to seek a career in the food industry given my family’s strong involvement in the industry. I learnt my first steps in my father’s kitchen at the King’s Own Band Club in Valletta which I further polished by studying at the Institute of Tourism Studies. I also worked abroad. My one experience at the Hotel Hilton Basingstoke added an international perspective to my career. I always dreamt of running my own outlet where I could put my ideas into practice. Palazzo Preca was the coronation of a long dream which was always at the back of my mind.

The book entitled “It’s About Time”, is a collection of 80 easy household recipes written by us, Ramona & Roberta Preca. “It’s About Time” is a celebration of cooking for families to enjoy, thus making it an ideal Christmas present for all who want to take their kitchen to another level.

The recent launching of the much awaited hardback recipe book, has 190 pages of culinary ideas including starters, main courses, deserts and gluten free recipes.

As a contribution to society, part of the proceedings of “Its about Time” will go as aid of the new and bigger Dar Bjorn, home for ALS, MS and Neuro patients.

The culinary world is notoriously male dominated. How have you found your way as female chefs and entrepreneurs?

What’s next for you?

I would say that being a female chef in a predominatly male dominated industry has been an asset rather than a con. Indeed, I often found more help and support. Nevertheless, have always believed in my own capabilities and work very, very hard to reach my ultimate goal.

During the pandemic we started to make new ready made sauces that will save a lot of cooking time, branded as “Just Cook”. In the future we hope that life will get back to pre Covid-19, therefore a very busy lifestyle, to be able to launch similar products in the market.

“Just Cook” is a novel product and we hopes that once the pandemic is over, this project will get wider exposure, get more sales and thus becomes more established.

Are women better cooks than men?

We are accustomed to a “mum’s cooking is great” world which might induce us to say yes however I do not feel so. I believe both genders have their own way to stand out in the kitchen.

“It’s About Time” recipe books can be bought from their well-renowned local restaurants, Palazzo Preca, Tal-Familja Restaurant and King’s Own Band Club, also from various shops and stationers around Malta and Gozo and also online on www.darbjorn.com . Books can also be delivered to your door against a small charge.

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MILK FED VEAL CUTLET WITH BACON CABBAGE INGREDIENTS 2 x 350g Milk-fed Veal Cutlets 150g shredded Cabbage 40g chopped Bacon 5 tbsp Extra Virgin Olive Oil 75g Butter 100ml Red Wine Jus

METHOD ■ Preheat a pan on high heat. Season veal cutlets with salt and pepper. Add a little oil and cook for 2 minutes each side. Reduce heat to medium, basting the cutlets frequently for a couple of minutes and continue in the oven for another 7 minutes at 180°C. ■ In another pan start preparing the cabbage.

■ Heat a large pan over medium-high heat. Add the bacon and cook until browned for4 to 5 minutes.

■ Add the cabbage, salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until cabbage is wilted.

You may need to add a bit of water to help the cabbage along.

■ Meanwhile check the meat is ready and serve on a bed of cabbage.

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JONATHAN

BRINCAT CHEF JONATHAN BRINCAT has made his home at Noni, in Republic Street, Valletta.

Jonathan’s work is impressive and highlights his culinary flair and sharp eye for detail. His style of cuisine is described by many as modern yet with a classical touch primarily using local seasonal ingredients. His style developed during his years serving the crowds of several prestigious eateries in Malta and abroad. His style also developed whilst working alongside leading international chefs such as Gary Hollihead. Chef Hollihead encouraged Jonathan to look at food from a different perspective thus priority is given to the sustainability and freshness of the ingredients selected.

Jonathan also learnet to use as straight forward plating approach which gives the ingredients selected and their flavours the possibility to stand out. Nevertheless

his major source of inspiration is his mum who always manages to cook amazing food with whatever she has available.

Jonathan often defines inspiration as a strange beast as it comes when you least expect it. Indeed, his inspiration sparks from a walk out in the countryside, or at a local każin whilst having a cup of tea, which coincidentally is where Jonathan got his inspiration for his famous dessert - “Te fit-tazza”. Generally though, his inspiration is derived from the ingredients.

It is by no coincidence that Jonathan Vassallo is considered by many food critics as one of the best exponents of local food excellence. It is not either coincidental that Noni has recently been awarded one Michelin star.

Credit: Brian Grech - Noni

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How did your culinary journey begin?

I must say that my love for cooking started at a very young age watching my mum at work in the kitchen. Nevertheless, my culinary journey began at the age of 15. It started in a local hotel as a commis.

What lies behind the nickname “Noni”?

Noni was my grandfather’s nickname. He had a shop in Msida called “Noni” and it eventually ended up being my own nickname. It somehow stuck and that’s how I am known.

Who was your biggest inspiration in the kitchen growing up?

I consider myself very lucky because I have more than one inspirational figure in my life. I worked alongside very good head chefs both locally and internationally but I must admit that my biggest inspiration is my mum as she is the only person who manages to cook amazing food with whatever she has available. She always does an excellent job.

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René Rendzepi once noted that, “Chefs have an opportunity and perhaps even an obligation to inform the public about what is good to eat and why.” To what extent do you agree?

I perfectly agree with Chef Rendzepi. This obligation is part of our job and we must inform people about the origins of food. Sadly, nowadays, we eat food of which we have no idea of its origins and how it was cooked.

What word of advice you would give to someone wanting to become a chef?

Work hard, keep your mouth shut and your eyes open, read a lot of books, show up every day in the kitchen, respect everyone around you and definitely taste everything.

Credit: Brian Grech - Noni

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ANDRE

BORG ANDRE BORG is the Head Chef at one of Malta’s leading restaurants, The Harbour Club. He is 29 years old, bold and energetic. His work as a Commis Chef at a Gordon Ramsay Restaurant and his participation in the “BBC’s Masterchef: The Professionals”, are part of the experiences that have helped him develop.

Prior to The Harbour Club, he worked in the UK with some very reputable restaurants and has brought with him his extended love for discovering ingredients that grow in the wild or that are produced by passionate people.

Together with the rest of the team, Andre honours local produce and is in constant search for producers that can deliver authentic ingredients.

This is reflected in the seasonal menu on offer.

In 2020, The Harbour Club has been listed in the first edition of the Michelin Guide, and Andre and the whole team are very proud of this achievement.

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FOIE GRAS CHERRIES, HAZELNUTS FOIE GRAS PARFAIT 400gr deveined Foie Gras 57gr Brandy 56gr Sherry 10gr Salt Method • Add all ingredients together in a vacpac bag, in sous vide at 63°C for 30 minutes.

• Blend everything together through a fine chinois and afterwards emulsify in a bowl over ice.

• Once emulsified pipe in a circular mould and freeze.

SOAKED RAISINS 50gr Raisins 50gr Sweet wine Method • Leave raisins to soak overnight.

POWDERED HAZELNUTS 100gr Hazelnuts 10gr Hazelnut oil 100gr Maltodextrin Method • Blend everything till powdered.

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HAZELNUT BUTTER 100gr Hazelnuts 50gr Oil Method • Roast hazelnuts and blend whilst warm and start adding the oil to thicken and emulsified.

CHERRY GLAZE 100gr Cherry Purée 20gr Xantana 5gr Gellan Method • Boil the cherry purée and add other ingredients.

• Pass through a sieve and cover the foie gras parfait in the glaze.

• Garnish the plate.

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THE DOURO BOYS IN THE TIME OF THE PANDEMIC

by Ivan Brincat

When the Douro Boys group was created, the aim behind the idea was not to work together commercially but rather to put the Douro on the wine map. That required a lot of travel both from Portugal and the Douro valley where the wineries are but also into the region.

Today, 17 years later and as the group approaches its 20 years since its existence with a pandemic in between, the five wineries which have put the Douro on the wine spotlight are reflecting as to what the future holds.

The Douro Boys was set up by the owners of five wineries, Quinta do Vallado, Quinta do Crasto, Quinta Vale D. Maria, Quinta do Vale MeĂŁo and the port wine house Niepoort to raise awareness for the Douro region worldwide.

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Over the past weeks, I sat down (albeit via Zoom) to speak with a representative of each of the wineries to discuss the impact that the Douro Boys have had on Portuguese wine in particular but more importantly what changes they are considering particularly given the COVID-19 pandemic which has forced them to cancel all events and also see them individually having to handle a crisis unlike any other before.

the Douro Boys who had decided to concentrate on public relations only using events, press releases and communication with wine experts in their various target markets.

Douro Boys are here to stay. “Wineries have different strategies and some are bigger than others but the focus is not on quantity but on quality. The aim of the informal group is to co-operate and also to gain experience and knowledge from the exchange of ideas,” she said.

VAN DER NIEPOORT Dirk Van der Niepoort is maybe the most radical. “This is a good moment to rethink a lot of things. Maybe it is the right time to think about what we are and what we do. We will be having a meeting soon and we need to think whether we need to rethink the whole thing. There is no question that we have to adapt to the situation.

We need to ask ourselves whether we stop or whether we do more,” he said.

He has no doubt that what they have achieved in their first 15 years for the region is more than what had been achieved in the previous 50 years when it comes to promoting quality wine.

The region had always been well known for its Port but not necessarily for its wines.

Tomas Roquette of Quinta do Crasto has no doubt about the value of the Douro Boys and its future.

“The idea was brilliant when it came about. It was difficult to sell Portuguese wine at that time. Even though the five companies are today more mature, it still makes sense for all of us. But there is no question that we should reflect on what we can do different in future. Should we be faster, should we use social media to try and communicate more. We had a lot of activities planned but they have had to be cancelled or postponed,” he said.

LOUISA OLAZÁBAL

On that basis you can say that it has been mission accomplished for

Louisa Olazábal of Quinta do Vale Meão spoke of the number of events that had to be cancelled since March. “We had to cancel our events and we had to review our plans as we shut down little by little because of the pandemic,” she told Food and Wine Gazette.

She is also of the view that the

João Ferreira Alvares Ribeiro from Quinta do Vallado said the pandemic has forced the Douro Boys to radically change what they had been doing before. “So far, we did not change too many things and we haven’t discussed what we will do long term but there is no question that we will continue to work together and to promote the region together. This has helped us before and will continue to be a good thing to support because it not only helps the image of the region but also our sales. As wineries we had similar challenges and we wanted to increase the visibility and prestige of Douro wines.

I think we have achieved these over the years,” he said.

CRISTIANO VAN ZELLER Last but not least, Cristiano van Zeller of Quinta Vale D. Maria said a reflection had been planned for the

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Ingredients: 1 Jar Pesto di Pistacchio 1 Medium sized Onion (finely chopped) 2 Gloves Garlic (finely chopped) 4 tbs Olive Oil 1 cup (300ml) Chicken Stock 300gr chopped Chicken Breast in 1cm chunks 800gr Fusilli 60gr Parmesan 100ml Fresh Cream Method: 1. Fry the onion in the olive oil until golden.

2. Add the garlic and stir for 1 minute.

3. Add the chicken and stir until cooked.

4. Add the chicken stock and stir for 2 minutes.

5. Add the pesto di Pistacchio and stir for a further 2 minutes.

6. Boil the Fusilli.

7. Add the frsh cream to the sauce and stir for 1 minute.

8. Add the Parmesan to the sauce and stir for a further 2 minutes.

9. Sleve the fusilli and mix with the sauce and serve.

end of the year. “There is no question that there is still a long way ahead to establish our wines. When it comes to price, we are right at the bottom when compared to the top regions.

We will need to raise awareness, we still need to reinforce the message that we have been working on since day 1 that the Douro can produce top quality wine.”

“We certainly have not finished our job. What may change is how we do our job. In the first years of the Douro Boys we travelled a lot and then we decided to bring people to the region. We need to adapt and find the most effective ways of communication. We need to show who we are and we need to be more active on social media and adapt to the current circumstances,” he said.

The general objective for the next five years of the Douro Boys is to establish the Douro as one of the elite regions of the world.

“In my view, the general objective for the next five years is to establish the Douro as one of the elite regions of the world. Another objective is for wines from the Douro to make it in the restaurant lists around the world,” he said.

The pandemic has clearly had an impact on each and every business in the world and wine is no exception.

“This is a unique situation for everyone around the world. The impact is global. The big question for me is when will we find a solution,” said Tomas Roquette.

“We’ve had to contend with questions like how big should the harvest be, whether we should produce less wine. We do not know what is going to happen next year,” he said.

He is of the view that 2020 will represent a major shift. “The world will not be the same after this. We need to behave better. We need to take note of climate change and we need to think more about the future in the medium and long term and not just the next day,” he said.

This has been a moment of reflection he said. “We were not prepared.

This is going to happen again so we need to prepare ourselves to live with uncertainty,” he said.

Dirk van der Niepoort relished the time spent at home during the pandemic and his conversations with his son which were something he was extremely grateful for. “It is a bit scary that you cannot plan anything.

Planning a week ahead is impossible,” he said when I spoke to him a few weeks ago when the situation was relatively more stable than it is today.

“This is going to be a year when you will notice the character of people who make the wines,” he said.

ABOUT THE DOURO The Douro River is one of the mightiest rivers in Europe. It stretches over 927 km through the Iberian peninsula. For 112 km, it is the border between Spain and Portugal. A total of 40,000 hectares of vineyards are planted along the steep banks of the Douro and its tributary rivers. Viticulture in the Douro Valley dates back to the times of the Romans. There are a total of 33,000 winegrowers in the region and 80 per cent own less than 0.5 hectares.

There are five main vines and these are Touring Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz (known is Spain as Tempranillo),Tinto Cão and Tinta Barroca.

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LEARNING FROM THE LOCKDOWN:

“THE MOST IMPORTANT VALUE IS BEING HUMAN” – SAN DEGEIMBRE

LIERNU: When Sang Hoon Degeimbre was forced to close the restaurant, the first time and the Belgian government announced a lockdown amid the pandemic way back in March he did not hesitate to move to the countryside.

He took one of rooms that normally welcomes guests and which would remain empty throughout the course of the lockdown in the Belgian countryside in Liernu and spent most of his time there.

Returning to Brussels from time to time, where he normally lives, some 45 minutes by car away from the restaurant felt surreal to him. In the countryside, there was not much sign of the pandemic. He worked together with his farming team to prepare the garden for spring. At L’Air du Temps, the Korean born Belgian chef has a garden where he grows his own vegetables, herbs and fruits which serves not just his restaurant but also some of his other restaurants in Belgium.

“Nature does not stop because of the pandemic. Life just goes on,” he told me in an interview in summer.

Today, writing that interview became all the more urgent as the Belgian government announced a second closure of restaurants just as restaurants were slowly on the road to recovery.

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And as the country seems to be heading towards a second lockdown, San is today more flexible, maybe even more resilient. “In the beginning, I realised that I had taken lot of commitments and within a moment, my agenda was wiped clean. I needed this quiet moment because I could focus on the priorities. And one of those priorities was rest.

For the first three days, I slept a lot. And then the priority became the garden. I took a room in the restaurant and for three months I was here working in the garden. “March, April and May are essential months in the garden. You don’t have any vegetables growing but it is the moment to plant seeds,” he said.

Within weeks, together with Ben, his head gardener, the garden started to produce a lot of vegetables like turnips and radishes and he had to see what to do with them.

“At first I worked with a bio shop but I realised that selling this way our message was being lost because they did not really place value on the produce or its provenance. What we do in our kitchen is to add value to great produce. So it was this that led us to create boxes for our clients. I did not want to offer a takeaway because I am not a caterer but it was important to also help producers because they were also in danger and fighting for survival,” he said.

That practice has come in handy today as the second restaurant closure for 2020 was announced taking many restauranteurs by surprise. Within two days of the government announcement, San and Carine Nosal announced they would be opening a shop that would sell not just their produce from the garden, condiments and herbs they prepare but also fresh produce such as duck and beef from their suppliers.

In the first lockdown, restaurants were not ready immediately. The immediate reaction was to close and put staff on unemployment benefits supported by the government.

Soon after, San was able to get some people back to work to prepare boxes for his customers. He also received a request from Amelie Vincent, known in social media as The Foodalist to prepare food for hospitals and he also worked to prepare food for the homeless. “We had extra produce which we could use, we would put 5 euros from every sale of our hamper to support our charity work. It was interesting because we created a circular economy. You realise that things can start slowly and through demand you can continue to work and grow. It helped us also to understand our limits.”

COVID-19 did not take him by surprise. As someone who works close to nature he is used to problems, bacteria that can kill plants for no apparent reason. “We as humans also have a tendency to demystify death or illness. We have this relationship with death which has become very complicated today. We do not accept it, we do not accept that we grow older.”

That might be because as a generation we have not had any experience of world wars or of previous pandemics like the Spanish flu or the Hong Kong flu which also created a lot of havoc but was not so visible in the media.

Amid a health crisis, restaurants worldwide are also facing an unprecedented crisis that is forcing a general reset. “There is going to be a crisis over the next few months. There will unfortunately be many restaurants that will close,” he said.

San believes that what’s most important is to recognise the expense and time that goes into creating good produce.

“Over the past months of crisis, consumers have realised that if they have time, they can pay attention to what they eat. During the lockdowns, nearly everyone baked bread,

there was a return to essential values. In our daily lives there are lots of things that are superficial and not essential.

I hope that this is what remains in people’s heads. People should come back to valuing basic values. And the basic value is being human. It is not about the best carrot but about the person who made it. We have to focus on the human being and not just on the economy or price. We’ve realised that health is essential. Even if we focus on the environment we need to put the person at the centre,” he said.

Many producers came forward to tell him they needed help because they could not go direct to customers. During the first lockdown he became a go between thanks to the hampers that he sold. Now, as the second lockdown is about to start, he is ready with a boutique shop which will see the restaurant showcase some of its best produce from producers in Belgium.

“In future we will need to put value on what’s important. It is not human to create a menu for 10 or 15 Euro in certain restaurants particularly because this does not put a value on the work of the producer,” he says.

That’s becoming more and more a theme among those restauranteurs who have experience with growing their own produce because they realise the amount of work that is needed to produce something and the importance of this.

“Sometimes my staff ask me whether a menu or a dish is too expensive and I ask them ‘is what I am paying you too much?’

“My restaurants are not all profitable but they enable 35 people to work. I don’t need to have five restaurants and it is not about the profit but rather about the people working and what they can give to the whole team. It also helps to ease the stress,” he said.

Going back to the lockdowns, San said there were restaurants that did not need to continue to work with chefs and owners spending time to meet their producers and maybe to rethink how to work in the future. “From time to time, we saw ideas that were dictated by economic reasons.

But it was also important to create something,” he said.

When you lose connection for three months, the biggest question is how to recreate the team spirit again. You need to assess whether members of the team have changed their opinion, their direction, whether they are still passionate.

The biggest challenge for everyone faced with a lockdown was how to create connection again. “As staff we are connected on a daily basis. When you lose connection for three months, the biggest question is how to recreate the team spirit again. You need to assess whether members of the team have changed their opinion, whether they have changed direction, whether they are still passionate in what they do. Because if you do not work on what you are passionate about, it becomes complicated,” he said.

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San, as one of the foreign representatives of Les Grandes Tables du Monde, was on the lookout for initiatives that were being taken around the globe. “It was impressive to see how people reacted differently. But ultimately, everyone faced the same issues and was looking at how we are going to work tomorrow. I did not see something that was completely innovative. You cannot invent what cannot be invented,” he said.

The chef is worried that when it comes to plastic for example, the pandemic has sent us 10 years back. “When you look at the disposable masks and gloves and how these are thrown away this is certainly very worrying. You could say the same thing about restaurants and takeaway but in our case we tried to use compostable material. Even the film we use is compostable. We are not perfect of course but when we find defects, we try to improve,” he said.

How will Belgium come out of this crisis I ask him. “I am a bit afraid to be honest. Belgians are not necessarily good at handling stress but it is necessary to have stress. There are many young chefs who are very promising and who would like to earn as many stars and awards as possible but over the lockdown the question I asked myself whether it really matters. There will be some who will change things.

There will be others who will push harder,” he said.

One of the first things he did was to close Wednesday at lunchtime. “We are now closed for two full days and two half days. It is important to balance the investments with well-being and to become more durable. We have worked to carbon test the restaurant to see how we can become carbon neutral. We have a project that will eventually help us generate our own energy. Projects are important because they help keep the team in motion,” he said.

To judge the success of a chef, an entrepreneur or manager you need to assess the growth of his former staff. In this regard, San can definitely be proud of himself. He has built not just an enterprise which helps his staff grow, his latest project being Vertige in Brussels with Kevin Perlot but there are many other former members of staff who left his stable and have ventured on their own. The team at Barge in Brussels is the latest example.

“Some want to be independent, but some don’t want to have constraints of ownership. What we try to do is guide them and help them. I think that like fashion this is a cycle, a new approach. Today we have a garden and we take care of the environment but it is something our grandparents used to do. In the past we had molecular food and we were preparing it but we didn’t know why. Today we do. In the past families had their own pigs, grew their own vegetables, then they bought tractors and because they invested they had to produce more. The question we need to ask today is whether it is necessary to have 15 restaurants. And

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WE NEED TO BUILD TOMORROW ONE DAY AT A TIME. IT IS VERY DIFFICULT TO SAY WHAT THE WORLD OF RESTAURANTS WILL LOOK LIKE IN FIVE YEARS. THE FIRST QUESTION YOU NEED TO ASK IS HOW TOMORROW WILL LOOK LIKE,SAN SAID.

the answer is that if 15 people want to be independent and have something to say, then why not?”

As many places in Europe speak of a possible second lockdown, I asked San what he learned during those three months. “I learnt that I was made for this job. Can I live without the restaurant was one of the questions I asked myself from the beginning. And what I realised is that it is not just about the job but rather about the exchanges with my team, with people. There is this human element which is fundamental,” he said.

I’m always curious about creativity both inside and outside the kitchen. The feeling I have been getting is that creativity going forward will become more important outside

the kitchen rather than inside. Does San agree? “I think it is very complicated to surprise people just with flavour. On top of that, people want a return to the basics, they want to enjoy a stew, something simple. We will go back towards the simple things in life, just like in the past,� he said.

San was expecting the second wave. When I spoke to him in July he told me that there had always been a second and sometimes even more waves. The Spanish flu brought about the influenza. So to a certain extent he was prepared for the second restaurant lockdown in a year even though he described 2020 as one which was unprecedented in the history for many restaurants. The lockdown is going to be tough again for the sector. But San remains positive.

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KLEINE ZALZE IS PLATTER’S TOP PERFORMING WINERY OF THE YEAR

www.foodandwinegazette.com

S

TELLENBOSCH WINE ESTATE KLEINE ZALZE ACHIEVED NEW HEIGHTS AFTER BEING NAMED TOP PERFORMING WINERY OF THE YEAR BY PLATTER’S SOUTH AFRICAN WINE GUIDE, ARGUABLY THE MOST COMPREHENSIVE GUIDE TO SOUTH AFRICAN WINE AND ONE OF THE MOST HIGHLY REGARDED IN THE WORLD.

The guide, sponsored by Diner’s Club, bestowed the title on the winery, which saw no less than seven of its wines achieve the five-star apex rating whilst a further six wines received a four and a half star rating.

“Well done Kleine Zalze! In a year where we tasted fantastic wines from the 2017 and 2019 vintages, your stellar achievement of seven Five Star wines is remarkable.

It is amazing to think that, only 25 years ago, Kleine Zalze was a neglected cellar and vineyard - and now you are on the forefront of brand South Africa! To the entire team, our congratulations on the well-deserved fruits of sustained, dedicated and creative work” said Platter’s guide publisher JP Rossouw.

The announcement follows just weeks after the experienced judges at the esteemed Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show named Kleine Zalze its Most Successful Producer Overall.

“To be named best producer in consecutive premium competitions by two of South Africa’s most influential and experienced wine-tasting panels is a wonderful acknowledgement for the team,” says Kleine Zalze owner and managing director Kobus Basson. “It may seem like our stars have finally aligned this year, but a lot of thought,

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investment and work brought us to this point in the Kleine Zalze journey. Next year will be 25 years since we acquired Kleine Zalze and embarked on this journey. Our aim was to build a sustainable wine business and to keep the focus on improving our wines across price points, styles and cultivars whilst ensuring that we stay relevant to the market”.

Three of the seven wines selected for five star-glory are from the Family Reserve Range, namely the Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Chenin Blanc 2019 and Sauvignon Blanc 2019. They were joined by one wine from the Vineyard Selection Range, the Vineyard Selection Chenin Blanc 2019.

Then, there is a trio of Kleine Zalze “Project Z” wines that received the five-star accolade. Project Z is an eclectic collection of exceptional and individual wines from Kleine Zalze. With Project Z, the team of winemakers at Kleine Zalze had free reign to interact with nature, to search for the ultimate expression from a vineyard and to push the boundaries of creativity and innovation in order to keep growing and evolving.

The “project” originated back in 2014 from discussion between owner, Kobus Basson, and the winemaking team at the time. From their discussions, the “project” grew and today the cornerstones of the Project Z wines are a selection of vineyards on extraordinary sites and an impressive collection of Italian amphorae that were steadily acquired since 2015. And of course, a dedicated, committed, and skilful team.

The development of the wines has been part of ongoing experimentation in the winery, initially to create blend components to evolve the style and to enhance the top wines from the estate. Their stand-alone excellence however, led to the decision to bottle small lots of the most exceptional wines. The wines offer a different perspective on what Kleine Zalze is capable of. The first wine was bottled in 2017 and this year sees the unveiling of the first of these small-volume

and limited-edition wines.

Six Project Z wines have been released, all of which achieved 4½ stars and more at Platter’s this year. The fivestar winners in this range are the Project Z Chenin Blanc 2018, Grenache 2017 and Syrah 2017.

JP Rossouw, Alastair Rimmer, Kobus Basson and RJ Botha “Platter’s is significant to us because it is certainly one of the most important tasting panels in the country, and one of the most comprehensive,” says Kleine Zalze cellar master Alastair Rimmer. “We are also excited that through consistent recognition locally and from the best international competitions, we help showcase, not only on our own terroir, but of what South African wine is truly capable of producing.”

Kleine Zalze’s head of winemaking RJ Botha adds, “It has been a wonderful year with the efforts of the entire team culminating in a series of top awards. We worked really

hard to improve and refine our efforts from the farming and viticultural side where Henning Retief and Anel Botha work tirelessly to the cellar where the winemakers keep pushing the boundaries to deliver even better quality than what our consumers and supporters expect.” The significant number of accolades amassed in 2020 in the most recent months certainly is testament of the efforts of the entire team at Kleine Zalze.

Heralded at the Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show were amongst others the Kleine Zalze Vintage Brut Cap Classique 2013, which received the Trophy for the Best Sparkling Wine, and the Kleine Zalze Family Reserve Chenin Blanc 2018, which claimed the Harold Eedes Trophy for Best Chenin Blanc.

At the Michelangelo International Wine & Spirits Awards, the winery received Platinum for the Kleine Zalze Family Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2019 – one of only 24 entries to receive Platinum - and Double Gold for the Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection Sauvignon Blanc 2019.

In addition, six Gold medals were awarded to the Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection Chenin Blanc 2019, Kleine Zalze Cellar Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, Kleine Zalze Family Reserve Shiraz 2016, Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection Shiraz 2017, Kleine Zalze Cellar Selection Chardonnay 2020, and Kleine Zalze Cellar Selection Chenin Blanc Bush Vines 2020.

UK Master of Wine Tim Atkin awarded eight Kleine Zalze wines with medals of excellence – wines that attained over 90 in the 100-point assessment.

At the esteemed Concours Mondial de Bruxelles in September – one of Europe’s benchmark competitions - the Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection Chenin Blanc 2019 was the top performing wine from South Africa, winning Grand Gold.

The winery collected a further three gold medals.

Kleine Zalze is one of the most established wineries of the Cape and is situated off the R44 between Stellenbosch and Somerset West.

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LIVING WITH GLUTEN INTOLERANCE Malcolm Paul Galea M.D.

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GLUTEN INTOLERANCE IS LATELY BECOMING QUITE A COMMON CONDITION DUE TO INCREASED TESTING

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permanent organ damage, and over time even with fatal consequences.

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Diagnosis is initially carried out by testing the presence of tTG-IgA tissue (transglutaminase antibodies) in the CHARACTERISED BY ADVERSE REACTION TO GLUTEN. bloods. Patient must be on a gluten containing diet prior GLUTEN IS A PROTEIN FOUND IN WHEAT, RYE, BARLEY, to test. Further examinations are performed through AND THE MAJORITY OF PROCESSED FOODS. THERE biopsies.

Celiac need tointestinal luten Intolerance can develop at any age, Disorders can happen anytime from within minutes endoscopies and intestinalare performed throughsubjects endoscopies and depending on various genetic factors. to hours from ingestion. Ignoring the condition can adhere to strict gluten-freebiopsies.

Celiac subjects need to adhere diets. Any gluten ingestion, even to strict ARE MANY LEVELS OF INTOLERANCES AND THE MOST The effects could be any combination of result is permanent organ damage, and over time gluten-free diets. Any gluten ingestion, even in in minimal amounts (like contamination), can damage the ating, abnormal bowel movements, abdominal minimal amounts (like contamination), can damage SEVERE IS CELIAC DISEASE.even with fatal consequences. small intestine, causing nutrient deficiencies, malnutrition, ns, headaches, tiredness, skin issues, the small intestine, causing nutrient deficiencies, Diagnosis is initially carried out by testing the and malfunction of the immune ression, unexplained weight loss, anaemia (iron malnutrition, andThe malfunction of the immune system. subject would presence of tTG-IgA tissue (transglutaminase ciency), anxiety, autoimmune disorders, joint system. The subject would then become immunethen become immunedeficient and unable to fight even the Gluten Intolerance can develop at any age, depending antibodies) in the bloods. Patient must be on a gluten muscle pains, leg or arm numbness, and brain deficient and unable to fight even the simplest on various genetic factors. The effectsdiet could any Further examinations simplest infections. containing priorbe to test. ging. infections.

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combination of bloating, abnormal bowel movements, abdominal pains, headaches, tiredness, skin issues, LIFE depression, unexplained weight loss, anaemia (iron deficiency), anxiety, autoimmune disorders, joint and muscle pains, leg or arm numbness, and brain fogging.

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Disorders can happen anytime from within minutes to hours from ingestion. Ignoring the condition can result is

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A very common and serious misconception is that using Gluten Free ingredients make up for a safe Gluten Free diet. This is wrong as the food preparation area, utensils and anything else used to prepare the final product needs to be totally free from any type of gluten contaminants and dedicated exclusively for gluten free food. The raw ingredients need to also be certified as gluten free.

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13 LIFE

T

he Terrace at Rampila is on the original gun emplacement overlooking the defensive ditch and the entrance to the City of Valletta. The position, completed in 1582, was connected with the Cavalier of St. John and was designed to be pivotal part of the defence of the city against attacks from the land.

Together with the Cavalier of St. James, facing from the opposite side of the Bridge, the fortifications commanded the approaches to Valletta.

Today St. John’s Cavalier is the seat of the Embassy of the Sovereign Military Order of Malta while the passage way to the middle wing is where the Rampila Tunnel Restaurant is situated. Alongside the Rampila Wine Bar is what remains of the linking tunnel between the two Cavaliers.

Rampila Restaurant today dedicates itself to an entirely more peaceful purpose of offering the finest of cuisine, wines and hospitality in this historic and iconic location.

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Credit: Sean Mallia - ION The Harbour

AN EYE Credit: Kurt Paris

Credit: Sean Mallia - 59 Republic

FOR DETAIL A well-done food photograph can make you stop in your tracks, drool a little bit, and immediately want to head out to the nearest restaurant or grocery store. That is the feeling you will get the moment you will come across SEAN MALLIA’S food photography. He is smart, sharp and with that distinct charm only a great photographer has.

An influencer recently defined Sean as “a great photographer dripping with talent. A true artist from head to toe.” Indeed, Sean has an evident penchant for photography, something he’s revealed over the years with his stripped-down and undeniably powerful depictions of food, architecture and fashion. Sean is as talented as they come and irrespective of the theme he is working on.

His work is fresh, captivating and with that masterful finesse only a great photographer can offer.

His portfolio is impressive and includes the front covers of leading local magazines, photographic exhibitions and other important projects. Every shot is incredibly well taken and his use of detail and colours is simply astonishing. A blogger recently noted that Sean “interprets the light and the dark, the tonality and the relationships between the colours, the compositions and the general ambience in a way that only he can.”

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Food photography was always one of the things he liked to photograph from the start of his career. When he bought his first DSLR, Sean was working as a waiter at one of the best restaurants on the rock. Marvin Gauci believed in him from the start and helped him to kick start his photographic career. Working in a restaurant taught him to appreciate good food and the work it entails to prepare it. “To this day I keep wanting to improve and show what real good food should look like on a photograph.” He mastered his eye for detail towards food by dedicating a good chunk of his time observing food. Sean notes; “Every food item has its individual set of characteristics that could enable it to look beautiful as well as delicious. It could be texture, colour, form, surface reflectivity and even transparency.

The trick is to identify these characteristics and find the best way to render them with good use of lighting as well as capturing them with good use of composition.”

Food means so much to him. It means colour, it means form, it means detail and above all, it means creativity. Every dish Sean is called to shoot is a story for him to discover. A peep through the vast collection of Sean’s food photography keeps you mesmerized on the amount of detail each photo carries. Every image is an explosion of colours that highlights the beauty and essence of a dish. Irrespective of whether it is a chocolate bar or a lavish dining table, every photo taken by Sean grabs your attention and encourages you look deeper into the various components which make his work so popular. Every shot focuses on detail on motion which is visible either in a broken piece of carrot, the position of a spoon or half cut fillet of fish. Sean’s work also evokes the likes of Francesco Tonelli, Mowie Kay, Rachel Korinek and Kimberly Espinel. What impresses most is Sean’s ability to bring all elements perfectly together. As well noted by Sean; “it is all about capturing the right shot. Like any good photograph, it needs to be well composed, well-lit and it also needs to have a “wow-factor”. He also notes; “I do believe that the mind is wired in a way to appreciate good visuals however what should strike the eye more than anything is usually something that has not been seen before.

So, innovation also plays an important role along with technique.”

Credit: Sean Mallia - Cardini

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Sean has now set his focus on new projects for the coming year. His next step is to setup a permanent studio where he can do shoots for clients from one place but also use it as his fortress of solitude to work on personal projects. “I need a space where I can think, conceptualize ideas, experiment, build and create. Once this is done, I look forward to many collaborations with other artists, designers, florists, models and retailers who supply beautiful items.” Sean is also planning more projects abroad. “Malta has a lot to offer but it also has its limitations. My mission is to have access to the best quality of items that deserve to be captured within a still life and have their beauty perceived through my style.”

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SEED ESSENCE INTERVIEW WITH

NOEL AZZOPARDI, EXECUTIVE CHEF AT SEED

The moment you come across Chef NOEL AZZOPARDI, you are quickly captivated by his pair of inquisitive eyes which convey his hunger for knowledge and success. His work is impressive and a quick look at his curriculum will tell you why he is considered by many local food critics and enthusiasts as one of the best chefs in circulation at the moment. His philosophy is so avant grade and his work is a statement. He is ambitious, inquisitive and constantly plays on that fine line which distinguishes the norm from what we often consider as ‘out of the norm’.

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His philosophy focuses on new ways of dismantling traditional precepts of food, combining the East and West and bringing experiential dining to the table. Above all, Noel is a detail maniac which is visible in the jaw dropping dishes he amazes clients with. It is with no coincidence that Seed has over a very short time earning a reputation as the go-to place on the island for something different, something exquisite, something special. Delicious recently caught up with Chef Noel Azzopardi to discuss his food journey, and the essence of Seed.

Credits: Brian Grech - Seed

What attracted you to the world of food?

It was in my mother’s kitchen where I fell in love with food.

I used to fondly watch mum prepare her famous ross il-forn or her delicious trifle. I was always fascinated by pots and pans she used over and over to prepare such amazing food. I was mostly impressed by her fondness towards traditional food which always rewarded our patience with tasteful meals. It was there in that small and cozy kitchen where I voiced my want to become a chef.

Tell us about your career path?

I have been working in the food industry for the past sixteen years during which time I served the crowds of several prestigious local hotels including; The Hilton and Hotel Juliani. Over the past years I was twice awarded the Best Chef of the Year and was part of Malta’s National Culinary Team for six years.

You are a member of the World Gourmet Society. How does such an internationally acclaimed entity help you develop further your talent?

For better or for worse, the world of food has drastically changed over the past decades. Distance is no longer a limitation and technology has brought new culinary realities closer to our home. The traditional culinary map has changed offering fine dining experiences beyond Florence, Paris and London. The culinary world has opened up to new culinary realities in Eastern Europe too. Media has also reinterpreted our traditional definition of food. TV, the internet and social media has transformed food into an accessible tool. In this context being part of such networks is critical to expose yourself to new cuisines, new methods and to new realities in the culinary industry. It is also a useful network where you come across different people with different ideas.

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a u o y g n i h s Wi rty a e H d n a Safe !

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How would you define Seed’s food concept?

Seed is a celebration of innovative and classic concepts which tease the taste buds of any food enthusiast who pays a visit to the outlet. The formal environment of the outlet is matched in the food presentation and service style. Every dish at Seed is a food experience which has no boundaries in terms of ingredients, tastes and styles.

In what way can Seed be defined as a “unique farm-tofork” experience?

At the heart of every dish he prepares lies a cuisine, which stresses on local genuine fresh ingredients. There is a story behind every herb, vegetable, fish or meat which should be carefully shared with every guest.

What are your thoughts about local produce?

We are blessed with some very good seasonal ingredients.

Nothing beats some seasonal ripe tomatoes, flocal salt and local honey. We are also lucky to have access to a high quality pork. The major challenge in local produce is when it comes to beef. The product still lacks consistency.

The secret of local produce lies in the concentration of taste hidden in each product. A local fig, olive or grape gives a unique taste to every dish they are added to.

What are your thoughts about the Michelin Malta Guide?

The Michelin Guide has raised the bar of Malta’s culinary industry. It has also finally set Malta on global culinary trail. We all stand to gain from the Michelin Guide as it will increase competitiveness in the industry, improve Malta’s food level and will encourage all professionals in the industry to seek new heights.

What makes Seed stand out of such a busy crowd?

The place creates that vibe which teases your food creativity. The place is a melting pot of ideas which are brought together in every single dish prepared. Seed is not only about dining. It is an experience which starts from the moment a client calls to reserve a table and continues after the customer leaves the place. Dining at Seed must never be restricted by time; clients are invited to embark on a food journey during which the story of every plate presented will be told. That is probably what makes us stand out of the crowd

What should we expect at Seed during the festive season?

Expect the unexpected! Indeed, we went an extra mile to create exceptional menus which truly give merit to such special occassions. It is now up to each food enthusiast to try and decide whether we have reached our goal.

What’s next for Seed?

Seed is still at its infancy. We are still at an experimental stage creating new concepts which will help us offer our clients something different, something which makes us truly one of the best eateries on the island. The best is yet to come for Seed yet the foundations have certainly been laid for a very promising future.

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IT’S THE MOST WONDERFUL TIME OF THE YEAR AT TA’ ÇENSU

T

he Festive Season is a busy time at Ta’ Çensu with many hands helping out in the preparation of various delicacies to entertain their clients during the most wonderful time of the year. Indeed, every corner of the Ta’ Çensu kitchen is heavy packed with all sorts of ingredients ready to be used to create interesting dishes. The smell is incredible and arouses the taste buds of every living being that passes by the busy offices in Spencer Hill, Marsa.

Every dish prepared for this time of the year, is a statement and reaffirms why Ta’ Çensu is so sought after by many locals. Food enthusiasts are spoilt for choice with a menu that offers a vast selection of starters, dishes to share, pasta, main courses and pizzas. Paccheri beef and tartufo, garganelli spinach and asparagus, Tandoori Tikka roast baby chicken, braised pork cheeks, local prawns served on risotto and traditional horsemeat stew are a few items you will come across in the impressive Ta’ Çensu December menu. Pizza lovers will not be disappointed with a choice that includes the traditional Margherita

and Capricciosa up to more adventurous tastes such as their Majjalata and their Tar-Raœal pizza. Sweet lovers will certainly not be disappointed by a good delection of desserts to conclude. For those who love a citrusy flavour, the “Ta’ Çensu lemon cheesecake“ is surely worth a try. Each dish will be accompanied by an impressive selection of wines.

Yet Ta’ Çensu is not only about the Festive Season.

During winter, Ta’ Çensu offer exceptional traditional Maltese dishes which include their famous “bebbux” and tripe stew; a traditional savoury dish slow cooked with bay leaves oranges fresh carrots, onions, potatoes, celery, curry and red wine. Every dish is prepared with fresh, high quality ingredients sourced from a narrow reliable circle of suppliers.

Ta’ Çensu is indeed a celebration of food which reaches its epitome during this time of the year.

The choice of food prepared is simply amazing and worth to enjoy with your loved ones. Booking is certainly a must so as to avoid any unnecessary disappointments.

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