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October 2021

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FOOD for Thought

Printing & Publishing Union Print Co. Ltd, Workers' Memorial Building, 3rd Floor, South Street, Valletta +356 2590 0200 Editor Omar Vella delicious@unionprint.com.mt Proof Reading

ood is culture, food is history, food is health, food is society. Above all, food is life. Everything we do in life revolves around food.

Mark Schembri Ramona Marie Vella Cini Design Robert Caruana design@unionprint.com.mt Front image Courtesy of Lido Vannucchi Index image Courtesy of Lido Vannucchi Back image Marea Photos We thank all contributers for

For better or for worse, the world of food has drastically changed over the past decades. Distance is no longer a limitation and technology has brought new culinary realities closer to our home. Moreover, the constant movement of people from one country to another has created a new phenomenon where you can experience an amazing Peruvian meal in the narrow streets of Rome or in any other corner of the globe. Media has also reinterpreted our traditional definition of food. TV, the internet and social media has transformed food into an accessible tool.

providing photos and images. Recipes We thank all contributers for the recipes provided Advertising info@unionprint.com.mt +356 2590 0200

Never has the role of food been so relevant and important as today. The COVID-19 pandemic has increased our awareness of the important role the food industry plays. It has brought to light the challenges it faces; the financial and human resources strain it is currently experiencing. The pandemic called for governments, stakeholders and society itself to act in order to ensure the sustainability of such an important component of our everyday life. This issue sheds light on the local and foreign eateries and the challenges they are facing to survive. This issue seeks to serve as an eye opener on why we need to act now.

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INDEX

CICCIO SULTANO

VALENTINO CASSANELLI

HEINZ BECK

FAUSTO SOLDINI

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one’s land INTERPRETING

Interview with

Ciccio Sultano

t is impossible to talk about Italy’s gastronomic excellence without mentioning CICCIO SULTANO. A chef of undoubted greatness.

A genius, a magician in the kitchen who is always ready to pull out of his hat something amazing and one of Sicily’s greatest culinary ambassadors. Indeed, Ciccio’s two-Michelinstarred restaurant Duomo is the standard bearer for Sicilian haute cuisine, attracting diners from all across the globe. In his interview with Delicious, Chef Sultano shares his experience in the culinary industry, what does innovation mean to him and what’s next for him.

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In what way are you Sicilian first, Italian second? I consider Sicily, by history, geography and culture, a gastronomic continent. Therefore, my cuisine is Sicilian by origins and international by vocation. In addition to this, anthropologically speaking, I don’t see many shared points of contact between a Sicilian and, let’s say, a Lombard, apart from the fact that they are both Italian: that’s why Italy can feature a good variety of types and many remarkable ambitions throughout the territory.

How has your intuition helped you stand out in such a competitive industry? Ambition fairly helps me. I am an entrepreneur and a sensitive cook - I would say I am partially a medium. We try to spread positivity and I personally reject the word “enemy”. Indeed, I would like to take this opportunity to wish all the jealous people the most incredible success so that they can forget about the word jealousy.

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What does innovation mean to you? Tradition is yesterday’s innovation. Therefore, it is necessary to know how to betray tradition, how to update it. We need to be able to describe the past in order to imagine the future.

You have often noted, “The goal of cuisine is still to communicate feelings, giving pleasure that can create a bridge between our past memories and the future.” Can you elaborate on that? When we cook - and let’s remember that cooking is a silent language - everything contributes towards a single goal. The food, service, and environment are all used to prepare a feast where the diners mix their thoughts and memories with a new tasting and sensory experience. From there, comes the magic and new and precious memories. We always do our best, but people are not always willing to let themselves go, to be guided towards a new experience.

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Why do you believe a chef is not hired just to surprise, but to nourish and offer a feast for the eyes and the palate? How long does a surprise last? Not very long. It makes no sense to invest everything and all in it. Usually, it represents a loophole for those who have little to say or who know very little. The challenge is to give the guests an experience proportionate to and sometimes even greater than the amount they have paid for it.

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In what way do you feel that a country with a great tradition differs from one that has not such a deeply rooted tradition? It’s the same difference that exists between a car with and one without wheels.

Why is the interpretation of one’s land through food essential? Because it is life, it is gratitude.

Why is eco-sustainability necessary in today’s gastronomic world? It’s the same reason why we need to be polite and behave in everyday life.

In what way has the COVID-19 pandemic redefined the food industry? I would say that within the animal kingdom, man is the species that forgets more quickly than the others.

What’s next for you? We will look after the whole food offer of the W Rome (a new luxury hotel due to open in Rome in November) and, who knows, maybe the dream of opening in London will come true.

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FREEDOM to create

ntelligent, creative, talented, with dark black curly hair that falls in cascades and with the look and smile only a great chef can possess. Valentino Cassanelli is considered by many food critics as one of the best exponents of Italy’s culinary industry. His dishes are true work of art and a free expression of Italian cuisine, drawing inspiration from his life experiences and from the rich biodiversity of Forte dei Marmi. Chef Cassanelli shares with Delicious his love for food, his creative process and the importance of freedom to create.

Interview with

Valentino Cassanelli What does food mean to you? Food is life. It is nature, culture and an expression of myself. Every day I work with my team to try and understand more about our territory and its traditions. We work with a free mind and in a sustainable way that gives our guests the very best gastronomic experience and a true reflection of the country. Food is the centre, our means of communication.

Why is travelling an important source of inspiration? I love travel and it is one of my passions. Travel helps me learn and to experience new things. Not just new ingredients, but how to approach food differently. Through travel I can exchange ideas and look at new cultures and traditions. Then I can explore and reflect on my own cultures and traditions. Travel helps me find inspiration.

In what way has London turned out to be a game changer in your food journey? I was only sixteen years old when I went to London for the first time. For a young boy from a countryside town in Italy, it was an explosion of inputs, a melting pot of cultures and identities – with some of the best food from all corners of the world. Everything was exciting and it showed me what was possible. London has helped me develop as a chef and as a man. The city is part of me now, part of my identity, part of my roots.

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Do you have any specific creative process? It’s hard to trace a static method, as the creative process behind each of my dishes constantly changes. The seasons tend to influence my creative process, that’s for sure. My other sources of inspiration come from specific locations. It’s important that my food represents emotions, that’s what I try to transmit to the palate. To do this, I use the seasons and what ingredients are available, applying my techniques and experiences to develop a dish and tell a story. Building dishes I can then compose a menu that tells a story and takes the guest on a journey.

You have often noted, “Focus should be on trying what is possible and keeping an open mind.” Can you elaborate? A chef should be an ambassador of their territory. It is important to know the region and to learn all you can from old styles and techniques, only then can you apply modern touches. An open mind is important. We are always learning. Stay curious and try to exchange ideas and techniques with other chefs. Travel helps. As does eating. Taste. Taste. Taste. Experience life and open your mind to new opportunities because this will make you better and help create the best you and in doing so, create a better experience for your guests.

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How does your geographic surroundings influence your cooking? In the incredible region of Versilia, I am close to the sea and the beautiful mountains are close by, too. Both continue to inspire and influence me. The Tyrrhenian Sea is only 200 meters away, and the Apuan Alps in northern Tuscany are just fifteen kilometres from us. Between the mountains and the sea, there is a very unique territory that has an abundance of ingredients. Thanks to its geography, Forte dei Marmi is quite an exclusive town, but at the same time, it’s within easy access to many artistic cities, connected by very good transport facilities. In normal situations, there’s a real buzz to the local economy thanks to international tourism. In the low season, however, it’s quieter and allows us to dedicate our time to researching new menus and to travel. The location is also important for our wine pairing with an abundance of incredible wineries in Tuscany, both large and small.

Why do you constantly stress on the importance of experience in any dining process? This is important because when you travel, food is a means of getting to grips with somewhere, to really understand a place. A great dining experience can teach you a lot about a location, allowing the chef to communicate with a guest via flavour and their senses. But not just flavour, the setting plays an important role too, as does service. A dining experience is more than just the food, it is about enjoyment and taking the diner on a journey or discovery and re-discovery. We want to create memories for them, memories of the mind and memories of the heart.

In what way do you feel that the COVID-19 pandemic affected the concept of ‘fine dining’ as we traditionally know it? For us, like for many, it has been a pretty tough time. Many things had to change. Not just in our business, but in our personal lives, too. It was very important for us that we kept a positive attitude and that the mood within the business was high, despite working through such an unstable period and not knowing when the rules would change. Fine dining is actually a very small part of the industry, but it’s an important one because we understand that guests like to treat themselves and experience new things. Settings and business models might change, but people are always in search of happiness and fine dining offers that. There is beauty and culture and happiness in food. We can help offer that.

Why is it not all doom and gloom for the post COVID-19 pandemic Italian gastronomic industry? It has certainly been a difficult and challenging time. The pandemic has affected people’s health and hit them economically, too. Italian gastronomy, though, has always been strong and proud. It has global recognition and those who remain positive and remain brave, will weather this storm and resurface in a new rinascimento.

Any projects in the pipeline? Lux Lucis is my present and my future. Like many chefs, though, I have a lot of different projects happening in the background, working with my brigade team on a free expression of Italian cuisine, and exploring my passion for the world of food, beverage and hospitality.

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A MASTER

OF MODERN GASTRONOMY Interview with HEINZ BECK

Known for its contemporary take on modern gastronomy, Chef Heinz Beck is a chef and restauranteur of undoubted greatness. A magician in the kitchen who is always ready to pull out of his hat something amazing. It is by no coincidence that he is considered by many food critics as a true exponent of the global food industry. Indeed, Chef Heinz Beck is a culinary artist with a unique ability to transform simple ingredients into highly evocative dishes. Delicious sat down with Chef Beck to discuss his culinary journey.

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You are often defined as the master of the modern kitchen. To what extent do you agree? I’m flattered to be considered a master of the modern kitchen, I’m just doing what I love most with passion and dedication.

You are originally from Germany, but you’re known for your Italian cuisine yet you consider yourself European. Why? I have always said that you can’t choose where to be born but you can choose where to live. From the first day I landed in Rome, I totally fell in love with the Italian history and its gastronomy culture and I cannot be happier with my choice.

In what way do you describe your cooking as “a light cuisine of Mediterranean flavours”? We are so lucky to live and to cook in Italy, we have at our disposal the best variety of products with a great taste and quality. It would be a shame not to use them in our dishes. The Mediterranean diet is much more than a food recommendation is considered world heritage so we have to learn from it.

Why should a culinary experience go beyond presentation and taste? I believe that it has always been like this in the history of humanity, today it is just more emphasized. I think about the emotion of the simple warm bread of the farmers’ tables to the obsessive care in producing it and in presenting it on the table with oil or butter. The culinary experiences start from the simplest tastes’ stories but certainly very significant, so that today they are perhaps a rarity and therefore a real luxury.

So, what drives Beck? My curiosity always played a fundamental role in my kitchen.

How important are Michelin stars? The Michelin guide makes evaluations and we must listen and learn from them.

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What role does a happy kitchen play in the final product? It has a very important role. In a kitchen, a strong team means everything; having a happy team is the key to produce something good that will give emotions to our guests.

Why is tradition the foundation of the modern kitchen? We, as humans, now eat guided by our memory. The things we like most are the ones we liked most in the past; anyway, if we find new interesting tastes, we try and appreciate them. Therefore tradition, certainly, is a good teacher but not the only one. On a solid foundation, a house can always be renovated.

How has the culinary industry evolved over the past decades? The food world, over the centuries, has been transformed by the change in our lifestyles and the transformations of our habits. We have always been the key to change. In recent years we have seen “speed” as a decisive factor, recently, due to the pandemic, other transformations have been activated and are still not defined. We must be able to adapt quickly, not suffering, but managing the change.

We are coming out of a pandemic that has hit hard on the restaurant industry. How can the restaurant industry get back on its feet? I believe that, in this specific case, we must not look at the past. There is a world after the pandemic that, for several reasons, is different from the previous one and would take a very long time to explain. The clearest synthesis is expressed by the concept of resilience, which must be an operational model at least for a while. The challenge is in the ability to understand the concept and organize resources according to its rules.

What’s next for you? I’m working on different projects around the world… so stay tuned.

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FOR THE LOVE

OF FOOD Interview with

RYAN VELLA

old, innovative, interesting, with an emphasis on flavour, texture and detail. That is what to expect whilst dining at Marea. Indeed, every dish prepared by Chef Ryan Vella is a gastronomic experience which offers every food enthusiast with something good, something different and above all with something that explains why many consider Ryan as one of the best exponents of the local culinary industry. Chef Ryan Vella shares with Delicious his passion for food, his style and what to expect whilst dining at Marea.

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What encourages a physiotherapy student to shift to the food industry? Looking back I realise that since a young age, I have always enjoyed my time in the kitchen. The prospect of going to the local culinary school didn’t entice me so I decided to pursue my goal of attending University. In the meantime, while working part time as a food server at Giuseppi’s in Mellieœa, with great encouragement from chef Michael Diacono I realised I was fooling myself as my passion was towards the food industry. Thus, I dropped out of University, enrolled at ITS and was given an opportunity to shift my work to the kitchen at Giuseppi’s. From that moment on, I never looked back.

So, why do you love cooking? In reality I love cooking because I love to eat. In my opinion nobody can be a good chef if he/she does not enjoy eating. More than love, I think I am obsessed with food and it is something that comes from within. I think so much about food and cooking, that I have no time to indulge in any other hobbies. I can honestly say that cooking is my one and only hobby. There are so many things to learn, discover and create that I feel that any amount of time spent not focusing on food and cooking is time lost.

How would you define your style? I believe my style of cooking is unpretentious, flavour focused and fun. At least that is what I try to achieve

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What are three ingredients you always have in your fridge or pantry?

Why do you feel it is a misconception to say that chefs don’t enjoy cooking in whatever downtime they have?

It’s difficult to choose just three ingredients which I always have in my kitchen. When cooking at home I like to focus on healthier stuff but still create flavourful and fun dishes, so I try to stock up my pantry very well. A mix of Middle Eastern spices, such as cumin, za’attar, sumac and ras el hanout are always at hand. Also, Asian ingredients like miso, soy sauce, coconut milk and mirin are a staple at our home.

Rather than a misconception, I believe that depends on what kind of chef one is. There are chefs who, like myself, are obsessed with the trade and then there are other chefs who are workhorses, who simply do the job for the sake of earning a living. It is perfectly understandable that an overworked and exhausted chef will need some time to unwind. During very busy periods, I myself enjoy a day of rest from cooking. This usually means dining out and looking for some great local restaurants. On the other hand, when I have a bit more free time for myself I love to experiment and entertain family or friends at home.

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Can you share with us the concept of Marea and its menu?

What makes it stand out of such a busy crowd?

Marea is a Mediterranean Asian fusion restaurant where we are trying to infuse both cuisines together. Although we have a selection of sushi dishes, the rest of the menu is a blend of Asian and Mediterranean cuisine, using ingredients and cooking techniques from both. We are aiming to have a more upbeat area on the outside terrace and a calmer more relaxed environment inside, where one can see the kitchen service while dining.

Although Asian fusion is quite in vogue at the moment, I think we are trying do something different by combining the Mediterranean with Asian cuisine in a way that we are not as restricted to shift solely on the Asian side. We are trying to achieve something where both influences are evident, and well executed on the menu. Apart from this, I believe the location is one of a kind. The setting and the view of the grand harbour is breathtaking.

Is there something in the food world you are keen to explore or learn more about? I love bakery, and whenever I have some time I’m always researching and experimenting. The world of bread fascinates me as there are so many things you can achieve with three of the most staple ingredients, (flour, water and salt). The fact that there are so many factors involved in bread and pastry making intrigues me. Something that is also on my mind is to acquire more knowledge on viniculture and the science behind wine processes and techniques.

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In what way has the COVID-19 pandemic changed the food industry? For us chefs, COVID-19 gave us a small time frame where we could appreciate the little things in our life that we normally don’t have time for. We could enjoy our home and family whilst appreciating the fact that life is not just about work. On a business level it was a big hit for some time but, in my opinion, the industry is recuperating quite well. Since the tourism industry is at a low, local people are travelling less and are enjoying themselves locally. On the other hand while restaurants are getting busy it is a close to impossible task to find staff at any level.

So, what advice would you give to chefs who are at the beginning of their culinary journey? My advice to any young chef would be to reconsider unless he/she is hundred percent sure about pursuing a career as a chef. Being a chef entails a lot of hard work and sacrifices and most of the people do not realise this. However, at times, if you truly love the food industry, it is a job that can give you a lot of satisfaction. In the case that one pursues the career, I would suggest to travel, read, research and experiment as much as possible. There is always something new to learn and something better that can be done.

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RABBIT STEW

AND BARLEY BREAD

By Warren Bugeja, Executive Communications, Heritage Malta

n a warm August morning in 1760, an hour

before sunrise, a motley group of friends

slipped out of the Grand Harbour to spend a few days of merry-making on a rented boat. The party consisted of six priests from Qormi, two sailors from the Order’s Ship, the San Antonio (including a certain Felice Testa), two barklora (ferrymen), and a young girl aged six. Pre-empting the fierce midday heat, the barklori and sailors rowed determinedly towards the north of the Island. Making haste for Selmun, they reached a beach known as Gœajn Œadid. Once close to shore, the priests tossed aside their cassocks – an act they were later reprimanded for – and wearing civilian clothes jumped off the boat. They explained to their companions that they would spend the day hunting for wild rabbits in the area. Whilst they were hunting, the sailors stopped for a spot of fishing round Mellieœa point. As sunset approached, the boat anchored in Mellieœa bay, the sailors ate their catch of fish, and rejoining the party, the priests

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brought along their freshly hunted rabbits. Come dawn, the holidaymakers walked up to the local church where one of the priests who knew the Parish priest of Mellieœa, sauntered into the rooms close by, grabbed a violin, and started playing. Immediately, the youngest of the sailors joined in the singing. For three sunkissed days, the band of convivial men and the young girl swam, fished, hunted, and feasted. Leaving the village of Mellieœa, they rowed down the coast to St. Julians Bay, where they visited the small chapel on the hill that is still found there today. On the third day, they sailed back to Grand Harbour, where they all returned to their respective homes. This care-free episode, one undertaken on many a summer day by present-day leisure seekers, has prompted Heritage Malta’s ‘Taste History’ team of curators, food historians, and chefs to re-enact the 1760 outing in a soon-to-be aired documentary. Kicking off Season Two, this documentary, the latest instalment in a series featuring historical recipes and beverages, will also recreate a wild rabbit recipe taken from an English recipe book of 1747. The ‘thick and smooth’ rabbit stew is flavoured with a blade or two of mace, an onion stuck with cloves, a nutmeg cut into pieces, an anchovy, a bundle of sweet herbs, a piece of butter as big as a walnut,

a spoonful of ‘catchup’ and another of wine, and finally, some fresh or pickled mushrooms. ‘Malta qatt ma rrifjutat qamœ’ (Malta never refused wheat). Like most idioms reflecting harsh reality, this popular saying is the result of a disadvantaged, small and arid island’s tenuous and fragile relationship with the supply of wheat. The French historian Fernand Braudel wrote, “the people never listen to reason on the subject of dear bread.” So dependent was the survival of Malta’s fortunes on bread that at times, the Knight of St. John sent corsairs out not to capture slaves but to impound grain ships. Sir Alexander Ball, the first elected Maltese president, did the same. He sent out the mightiest navy in the world out of the ports of St Paul’s Bay and Gozo to capture wheat for the beleaguered Maltese. He required guns, swords, and soldiers, but he desperately needed bread. ‘Dear bread’ is the subject of another Taste History documentary which will also be broadcast this autumn. Grand Master Nicolas Cotoner (1663-1680) was the first Grandmaster to harness the potential of Malta’s ever-present wind power, raise agricultural productivity and fill the treasury with the Knights of St John’s right of monopoly on the construction of windmills. Cotoner not only introduced the basic design on which windmills would be built but also created the modus

operandi that would be followed by his successors, well into the British period in Malta. The 18th century Ta’ Kola windmill in Xagœra, Gozo, ground its last consignment of flour just prior to 1987 when it was entrusted to the Museums Department for restoration and safekeeping. The windmill’s final occupant was adventurer Æuÿeppi, son of miller Nikola Grech, and the explanation behind the mill’s moniker. Departing from Gozo in 1916, at the tender age of sixteen soon after World War I broke out, Æuÿeppi survived the Gallipoli landings, the lead mines of Australia, and a brief stint in Tunisia, only to return to the family trade of millers and rescue Ta’ Kola windmill from ruin. Various cereals were ground to produce different flours at Ta’ Kola Windmill. Wheat and barley, for instance, were combined together to create ‘il-Œobÿa tal-maœlut’ (mixed bread). Featuring commentary by Daphne Caruana, Principal Curator of this unique relic of bread-making in Gozo, the Taste History Ta’ Kola documentary will also recreate and provide the recipe for this historic bread. Watch these two delicious documentaries by liking Taste History’s Facebook page in order to keep updated with future events and viewing dates and timings. https://www.facebook.com/TasteHistoryMalta

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October 2021

PRESENTS

DANCES FOR GOZO A DOUBLE BILL

KALYPSO CHOREOGRAPHY JACOB PICCININO NUOVA FIGURA CHOREOGRAPHY PAOLO MANGIOLA 2 OCTOBER 2021 TEATRU AURORA GOZO / 20:00 FREE EVENT ALEXANDRA PACE

BOOKINGS SHOWSHAPPENING.COM

he Terrace at Rampila is on the original gun emplacement overlooking the defensive ditch and the entrance to the City of Valletta. The position, completed in 1582, was connected with the Cavalier of St. John and was designed to be pivotal part of the defence of the city against attacks from the land. Together with the Cavalier of St. James, facing from the opposite side of the Bridge, the fortifications commanded the approaches to Valletta. Today St. John’s Cavalier is the seat of the Embassy of the Sovereign Military Order of Malta while the passage way to the middle wing is where the Rampila Tunnel Restaurant is situated. Alongside the Rampila Wine Bar is what remains of the linking tunnel between the two Cavaliers. Rampila Restaurant today dedicates itself to an entirely more peaceful purpose of offering the finest of cuisine, wines and hospitality in this historic and iconic location.

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Over the years the family has cultivated vineyards in the various estates and their fruits have been spread not only in their own land. The awareness of producing wines with a high personality prompted the Brothers in 2006 to complete the entire production cycle. The company's mission today is to enhance its territory and the productions that are obtained and to be a reference company in the production of wine in central Sicily. Sua Alteza is the name of the most representative estate of the company; the Lombardo family, in 2013, recovered and renovated an ancient farmhouse in which rural life and in particular the production of wine took place for decades.

Hard work and planning play a massive role in giving rise to a good business. My dreams started becoming a reality when I met the right people at the right time. I have always had a passion for the Food and Beverage industry, more specifically wine. I am also very keen on learning more about the Viticulture, not only to learn about the grape cultivation but to also enhance my knowledge about the wines I personally import. During one of my many trips to Sicily, I had the opportunity to meet a family, whose passion is wine. During our initial meeting, their intention was not to sell their wines but mostly to introduce me to the different families of WINERIES.

My business really took off about four years ago, when I started importing different varieties of wine, from different regions and countries. Nonetheless, my heart is still attached to Tenute Lombardo, which is the first winery from which I imported my first wines and introduced to the local market. Ever since, the winery has achieved several awards and recognition for its wines.

"Hard work and planning play a massive role in giving rise to a good business."

In fact, whenever I visit a new restaurant, such wines could always be found on the wine list. Their main grapes consist of Nero d’Avola and Catarratto, while also having a variety of bubbly and dessert wines. They have also introduced a new type of wine, known as Grillo d’Altura, which received immediate success both internationally and in the local market. It was also given the high award recommendation by wine enthusiast magazine. If you would like to have a sample tasting of this wine and learn about different wines and where they are offered locally, kindly pay us a visit at our wine shop.

BEYOND

LA PINSA Interview with

Fausto Soldini Owner of Zero Sei Trattoria Romana

here to begin about Fausto Soldini? A Roman restauranteur with a passion for ‘la carbonara’ and anything la cucina Romana offers. As he often stresses, “we speak poor English but we make good carbonara.” Bold, frank, warm, straight to the point, uncompromising and with a smile and a laugh that lights up a room. We could talk about this man for hours: his sympathy, his charisma, and his knowledge are a universe to get lost in. Above all, Fausto is blessed with an energy and infectious enthusiasm to share his grandmother’s treasured cucina casalinga with every person that pays a visit to to one of his famous eateries across Malta.

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What originally was meant to be an interview on la pinsa romana, quickly shifts to the current local food industry and the challenges it offers. Like many other food entrepreneurs, Fausto felt the bite from the COVID-19 pandemic. Indeed, this was a hell of a year for him. Airport lockdown and the closure of all entertainment outlets he saw his revenues plummet. And yet, the pandemic did not deter his goals, his vision and his plans. He kept on believing in his dreams and kept on striving to ensure a sustainable future for his projects and above all, his employees. Fausto is surely not short of energy, determination and above all, ideas. Yet no man is an island and human resources play a key role in the success of his ambitions. A major challenge, given the current industry’s shortage of manpower. Indeed, COVID has substantially aggravated skills shortages in the catering industry, prompting an exodus from the hospitality and catering industries, and in the cases of some foreign workers – from the country. “This has created a number of problems, where some establishments are closing on select days of the week, or having situations where customers are only being served hours after being seated,” Fausto explains. He also adds that many foreigners returned home and skilled Maltese who ended up without a job during the pandemic and couldn’t survive on the wage supplement left the industry, found an alternative job and are now reluctant to return. To make things worse skilled employees are being poached and offered wages he cannot match.

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Fausto remarks that this is inevitably impinging on the economic and operational sustainability of numerous eateries across the island. This is also impinging on the service offered. Quite a serious matter when one keeps in mind that Malta highly depends on the tourism sector. “Why do tourists visit Malta? Why do tourists visit Valletta? They choose Malta over other destinations for the experience they will get. They choose Malta for the historical, cultural and leisure experience.” Fausto explains. The current lack of human resources is impinging on the service offered and this will inevitably affect tourist numbers. A sheer pity given several restaurants are now in the Michelin Guide list. Much more, when one keeps in mind that three Michelin star outlets are situated in Valletta. Fausto notes that immediate action is required to address the problem. “Authorities must be more sensitive to the current staffing and human resources the restaurant industry is facing. They must understand that whilst health measures are paramount, offering a good service thanks to adequate staff is essential.” Moreover, the easing of restrictive measures should be in line with the current reality the industry is facing. In this context, Fausto feels that the restrictions eased for vaccine-only restaurants as of October 9 announced recently do not reflect the sector’s requirements. He feels that such measures will only add further pressure to the sector. Notwithstanding the challenges the local restaurant industry currently offers, Fausto still considers Malta as an opportunity for him to dream and to grow. “I am a food lover; I am an entrepreneur and above all I love the island. I have many ideas which I am willing to invest in yet much depends on how the local industry will evolve. Every idea needs people so let us hope for the best. Let us hope for a better future.”

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M A LTA

A G E N C Y

The Malta FOOD AGENCY BRINGING CHANGE, FINDING SOLUTIONS.

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specially when it comes to food, a basic need

but also something that gives flavour to so many different aspects of our lives, storytelling has always been a special way that connects

people. This is why for us, as the Ministry for agriculture, fisheries, food and animal rights, the establishment of the Malta Food Agency and its official launch this July, spells out such an important chapter in the story of how we bring benefits and solutions to the people we serve. Let’s start at the beginning. The reason why the Agency was set up is to provide services in relation to the sales and marketing of food from farming and fisheries. What this means, in practice, is that the Agency plays a pivotal role in supporting Government in its agenda to create the right business landscape for operators in the agri-food industry. One of the reasons why the Malta Food Agency has quickly become a familiar name is because it took over the administration of the Pitkalija and the Pixkerija markets, and in so doing, also acquired, so to speak, the very famous Pitkalija reform. In fact, in the past few months, the Agency has not only registered significant progress in line with what has been promised but continues to move with success by engaging with all the stakeholders. Other than ‘fixing’ things that were not working well, and in so doing, fulfilling one of its main functions to correct for the inevitable market failures that characterise the agricultural and fisheries sectors in a small Island state, the Agency has other very important roles. To begin with, it will be regulating the sales and marketing of food and implementing legislation such as that for marketing standards. Another important role is to support enterprises in the agri-food industry, so that with the right mix of policies and incentives, these are stimulated to create, access, and grow into new markets, both locally and abroad. It goes without saying that the vision that drives the Agency and its performance is based on what we as a country can aspire to have in an imagined future that boasts a more robust and resilient food system. In this, however, we also need to remind ourselves that this vision is not static, and that the Agency must be bold and equipped enough to respond to society’s needs and embrace the change even in its own operations.

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EVENTS THAT

MATTER W

ith over 20 years of experience in the catering and hospitality industry, Hilton Malta have now branched into the world of outside catering! A project months in the making, the recent launch of Hilton Malta’s outside catering greatly expands an already impressive Food & Beverage offering.

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B Y HI LTO N M ALTA

The Events that Matter tagline speaks for itself. By working with a select number of superb venues around the island and with tailor-made menus for any occasion, an event that matters is to be had. Whether it is a corporate dinner or a family occasion, Hilton Malta’s outside catering will deliver, and it delivers to the high standard it has become renowned for.

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REDZEPI: MAKING NOMA THE BEST PLACE TO WORK IS THE NEXT GOAL by Ivan Brincat - foodandwinegazette.com

He had come prepared with a speech even if he said he was not aware that his team would clinch the top spot in the list. “Given we were second last year, we had to be prepared,” he said. Eleven years since he clinched the first title for Noma in 2010 he attributes that success not to his creativity or to his leadership but to the 79 members of the team who work to make it happen. On stage, he paid tribute to the members of the team who could not be present in Antwerp as they were serving guests at the restaurant in Copenhagen.

NTWERP: As René Redzepi walked into the auditorium of the Flanders Meeting and Convention Centre in Antwerp he was anxious. Not because there was a possibility that he could end up on the podium of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list for the fifth (and last) time but rather because events like these have not happened for many months now and restaurants in part of the world are still struggling with COVID-19 outbreaks.

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“A lot of things passed through my mind in this moment. Going over the past two years, I realise how great it feels too feel good. And actually you feel guilty to feel so happy,” he said at the press conference just after the list was released in Antwerp on Tuesday afternoon. He was already in the Best of the Best group having already made the top of the list four times but the fifth has really been special for him. “I feel like this is the best I’ve felt in the 50 Best restaurants list. With respect to the list, I do not even think we are the best. After all this period, being with all these people, even if I was a bit anxious at the start it is great to be celebrating together after all these ups and downs,” Redzepi said.

THE SECRET OF THIS ACHIEVEMENT IS IN THE 79 NAMES. WE ARE A GROUP OF INDIVIDUALS THAT TOGETHER CREATE THIS ENERGY AND SOMETHING SPECIAL HAPPENS. THAT IS OUR SECRET.”

Now that he will no longer be eligible to compete in the list (since two years ago, winners of the list are put into a sort of hall of fame called Best of the Best) his main aim is to make Noma the best place to work in. That has been the focus since the restaurant became no 1 the second or third time. “With the pandemic and all its trials and tribulations what we strive for is how we can be the best in terms of work place and also have the most incredible creativity. How we can allow people to work and find balance, to raise families. It is very hard to achieve but we have put some things in motion already. There is no light switch, it is a long grind and we are working towards that and I am extremely excited about this,” he said. Over the past months of the pandemic, René has had a lot of time to think. “What I realised is that what makes me happy is the feeling of not knowing what you do, of having creativity in your life, of needing the team around me. This is something that I have truly learned over the past months,” he said. Asked where he wanted to be in 10 years he said that for this we had to wait and see. “We have thoughts but this is not something you build overnight. It is like building a pyramid, stone by stone, one step at a time.”

There was of course a question about whether this was a new era for Nordic cuisine after a decade. With two restaurants in the top 3 (Noma and Geranium) and Frantzen (Stockholm) in sixth place René said it sure is. “I really welcome this, I welcome change. It is really the time for the Nordics. Cannot wait to see what happens there over the coming years,” he said. “It feels pretty wild for two Copenhagen restaurants to clinch the two top places. You need to understand that the city is small and that we need the support of one another in such a place. I am so happy and thrilled and this confirms something special has been happening in Copenhagen,” he said. He reflected on the difference between taking top spot now and in 2010. “I had one child back then, I was 33. Now I am a father of three. I’ve learned a lot and understand things differently. Nothing can prepare you for the top spot. But the reality is that March last year, I was asking myself whether my career was over.” For René, in the darkest and early days of the pandemic, the question was whether what had been created over many years of hard work would survive. “We had a plan that we would pool money and ensure that staff could be able to sleep on couches. We prepared a war chest to feed people. The reality, however, is that we live in the most privileged corner in the world and for this I am really grateful,” he said. René said that slowly it became clear that they would be able to survive the problems created by the pandemic. “But what’s important ultimately is that you don’t get attached to things because these can really change from one day to the next,” he said. He spoke of his challenges in the past. “Although we strive to be the best place to work at we are not there yet. I go to work wanting to be the best. When I was young and working for chefs who would throw a rage when things went wrong I promised myself I would not be like that. But for years, I could not control myself. I would hate myself for being a disappointment as a leader. I worked on this every day. But it is not simple. We have over 20 nationalities working in the kitchen. There are different cultures at play and in the fish room there could be a major argument on something like what to do with a cod head. It’s not as simple as you think,” he said.

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Asked what legacy he would like to leave he said “I don’t think people will remember anything. Maybe, if you are Gandhi people might remember you. I am sorry to say but some of our younger cooks do not know who Ferran Adria is. I don’t work for legacy, I work for creativity. I work to be part of an energy, a team, that does something special.”

short and head home a month earlier. If you do not allow yourself the time to take a vacation what the hell is it worth. That is basically the silver lining behind our decisions. When you have three kids you want to be with them as they grow up. Our daughter was passing through a tough moment, it was the moment to spend time together.”

One of the criticisms faced by The World’s 50 Best was that of considering Noma as a new restaurant. René said he is of the view that the restaurant is completely new. “We also thought of not naming it Noma because for us it was a completely new restaurant but my business partner put his foot down. We considered all sorts of names including The Weather Restaurant because the weather dictates what is on our menu. It was a genuine consideration but people said it would be the dumbest thing to do to build a name and throw it away.”

Questioned about creativity and how he and his team get new ideas he said the formula in his opinion was simple. “Creativity starts with gaining knowledge. That comes from travelling, reading books, watching movies, being very present and observing everything. For every one idea we need ten ideas. This means that if you don’t allow the time to read books you quickly run dry and start repeating yourself. Then comes intuition. Intuition is about trusting yourself. It is that feeling like sportsmen who know where the ball will go before it gets there. It takes a lot of practice, a lot of training to get to that point.”

Speaking about his three month sabbatical which he had to interrupt after two months because of the pandemic, Redzepi said this was something the restaurant wanted to continue. “I know our sommelier will do it next year. Already several people have done taken this opportunity and I also want to do it again because we had to cut ours

Asked what message he had right now he said that the big message is to stay positive no matter what. “We are going through a very tough moment. Even if everything is open in Denmark at the moment there are parts of the world where the pandemic is at its worst. Peace of mind is the strongest currency, even better than Bitcoin,” he said half jokingly.

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A MUST-TRY PLACE

here is something striking about Ta’ Ċensu restaurant which goes beyond the name, the outlet and the location. The moment you will dine there, you will realise why. The answer lies in the food, the service and the people behind Ta’ Ċensu, a family run business, hidden among the busy offices in Spencer Hill, Marsa.

The place is a true gem in all senses. The restaurant tries as hard as any I know to bring delight to the table with every course. It succeeds so often that only the most determinedly grumpy souls could resist. It is cool, modern with a casual kick and a homely feel that makes it stand out in such a busy crowd. Ta’ Ċensu’s attraction also lies in its menu which is a mix of innovative and classic concepts. What started off as a traditional kitchen specialising in local dishes such as horsemeat, snails and stuffed calamari, gradually evolved into an extensive Mediterranean cuisine menu with weekly specials. The menu has recently further developed since Ray Fauzza took over in the kitchen. Fauzza’s food ethos is spelt out in every dish prepared. Every dish is borne by the fundamental principle to keep it simple, exalt the beauty in every ingredient and above all ensure it tastes amazing. At the heart of every dish he prepares, lies a cuisine which stresses on local genuine fresh ingredients. Today, Ta’ Ċensu’s menu offers a vast selection of appetizers, starters, salads, main courses, pizzas, and burgers. Traditional dishes are complemented with other classical and adventurous dishes such as the Tandoori Tikka Roasted Baby Chicken, Braised Pork Cheeks, Jamaican Jerk Salad and the Big Boss Ċensu Burger. For all pizza lovers, the selection is to die for. When dining at Ta’ Ċensu make sure to leave some space for dessert. The selection is truly impressive! Ta’ Ċensu also boasts a good selection of wines and beers among others. The service is impeccable thanks to a young and dynamic team. Ta’ Ċensu’s will soon develop into two concepts with one focusing on pizza, pasta and grill and another specializing on Mediterranean food. The place has gone a long way gradually developing into one of the most interesting eateries on the island and the best is yet to come. The place is surely worth a try and even more!

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October 2021

TROFIE PASTA with grilled Shrimp, Cauliflower and Pesto

rofie is a twisted pasta shape originating in Liguria, I love it because when you use it with pesto, basically any type of pesto, the sauce just clings to the shape and gets into all the grooves. I’ve used it with my parsley walnut pesto, kale and almond pesto and of course traditional basil pesto, and it’s all so good!

METHOD In the warmer months and with a grilling season underway you can create a beautiful pasta dish with just a few ingredients and a pesto of your choice. I added grilled shrimp, grilled cauliflower and some fresh cherry tomatoes. If you have a source to buy a good quality pesto you can even do that, but I encourage you to make your own pesto. How to grill the cauliflower Sprinkle cauliflower florets on both sides with olive oil and seasoned salt. Cook cauliflower on the grill until char marks appear, 2 to 3 minutes per side. How to grill shrimps Brush shrimps with oil, season with salt and pepper and grill for 2 minutes on each side. Cook pasta according to the package directions and reserve a little pasta water to loosen up the pesto a bit. Toss the pasta into a bowl and add some fresh sliced tomatoes, no need to cook them.

INGREDIENTS 500g Trofie pasta half a cup Basil Pesto Fresh cherry tomatoes (halved) 400g shrimps (grilled) 3 cups of cauliflower florets (grilled)

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Start adding in your pesto, I start with a quarter of a cup at a time, tossing gently and coating the trofie pasta using the reserved water if needed. Transfer pasta to a pretty platter and top it off with the grilled shrimp and grilled cauliflower. A five ingredient meal that’s fresh, light and delicious!

PA S T I Z Z E R I A

WE ACCEPT ORDERS FOR PARTIES

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Citrus-Cured

Salmon

This 24-hour method will transform uncooked salmon into a side of firm, silky fish. Buy the best you can afford.

INGREDIENTS 140g kosher salt 2 /3 cup granulated sugar 1 /3 cup (packed) light brown sugar 1tsp black peppercorns 1tsp coriander seeds 1tsp fennel seeds 1 /2 tsp crushed red pepper flakes 500g skin-on, boneless salmon fillet 1 /2 tsp finely grated lemon zest 1 /2 tsp finely grated lime zest 1 /2 tsp finely grated orange zest

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METHOD Combine salt, granulated sugar, brown sugar, peppercorns, coriander seeds, fennel seeds and red pepper flakes in a medium bowl. Spread half of the curing mixture in the center of a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet roughly the same size as the fish. Place fish skin side down on the mixture. Spread lemon zest, lime zest, and orange zest evenly over the fish and cover with the remaining curing mixture. Bring edges of foil up and over the salmon and crimp to cover well. Place another baking sheet on top of the salmon and weigh down with several large cans or an empty casserole dish. Leave in the fridge for at least 24 hours. Rinse fish under cold water, pat dry with kitchen paper, place skin side down on a cutting board and using your longest, sharpest knife and wiping down the blade between slices cut the salmon into fine slices. Serve the sliced salmon with baby fresh salad leaves.

Salmon sea bass

IN FILO PASTRY

INGREDIENTS 2 salmon fillets 1 sea bass filleted Zest of 1 lemon Pine nuts Sprigs of fresh thyme Garlic butter Filo pastry Poppy seeds Salt and Pepper

METHOD Remove the skin from the salmon and slice evenly using a very sharp knife. Season with salt, pepper, lemon zest and thyme sprigs. Remove the skin from the sea bass fillet and sandwich between the two salmon fillets. Brush a sheet of filo pastry with garlic butter. Transfer the fish in the middle of the filo pastry and wrap around the fish fillets. Pre heat oven to 200°C. Place fish parcel on a baking dish, brush with the garlic butter, sprinkle with poppy seeds and bake until pastry is golden and crispy.

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October 2021

MOULES

MARINIÈRES INGREDIENTS 2.5kg Fresh Mussels (scrubbed) 75g Butter 400ml Dry White Wine 2 Garlic cloves (finely chopped) 200ml Double Cream 2 Tomatoes (diced) 2 Leeks, white parts cut in half lengthways Handful of Fresh Parsley, coarsely chopped

PREPARATION ■ Heat the butter in a large saucepan big enough to take all the mussels. ■ Add the chopped garlic and leeks and cook until softened. Add the wine and turn up the heat. Add the mussels and cover. ■ Shake the pan for 3 minutes or until all the mussels have opened (discard the ones that don’t open). ■ Add the chopped tomatoes. Pour in the cream and season with salt and pepper. Keep cooking for another minute. ■ To serve, sprinkle with the freshly chopped parsley and lots of crusty fresh bread.

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Keith Farrugia THE MEAT SHOP

METHOD

Stuffed Saddle of

LAMB INGREDIENTS 11/2 kg boned saddle of lamb skirts removed (ask your butcher to do this for you) 2 sprigs rosemary 1 tsp olive oil 50ml white wine vinegar For the stuffing 25g butter 4 shallots, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed 50g pancetta cubes small pack flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped 6 sage leaves, torn 1 tsp grated lemon zest 50g fresh white breadcrumbs 1 egg yolk

In a large pan, melt the butter over a gentle heat and add the shallots. Cook slowly for about 10 minutes until softening, then add the garlic and stir to combine for 1 minute. Turn up the heat and add the pancetta and a little seasoning. Cook until the pancetta is crisp, and the shallots are tender and turning golden. Take off the heat, add the rest of the ingredients and stir to combine (it should not be too wet, as the stuffing should absorb some of the lamb juices when cooked). Set aside to cool. Heat oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6. Lay the lamb saddle out on a board, fat-side down. Arrange the stuffing in a line down the middle, bring the sides up and roll into a large sausage shape so the stuffing can only be seen at the ends. Using string, tie the saddle, tucking the rosemary under the string, then rub with salt and a little pepper. Heat the oil in a large pan over a high heat and place the rolled lamb in the pan to seal the outside, turning every minute or so, until golden – about 6 minutes. Remove from the pan and place in a roasting tin. Pour the vinegar over – this will help to crisp the skin – then cook in the oven for 1 hour. Leave to rest for at least 10 minutes on a board covered loosely with foil.

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LINGUINE VONGOLE

MUSSELS

INGREDIENTS 1kg Mix of Vongole and Mussels (soak in water for 30 minutes to remove any sand or grit) 8 Pieces Anchovy Fillets 6 Cloves Garlic sliced 1 Glass of White Wine 100ml Olive Oil 500g Packet of Linguine 1 tsp Peperoncino 1 Bunch Chopped Parsley Salt and Pepper to taste

PREPARATION ■ Bring a pot of salted water to a boil and cook pasta until al dente (less than the time indicated in the package). ■ In a large pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat and add the garlic, anchovies and peperoncino. ■ Cook for 2 minutes being careful not to let the garlic get brown. ■ Add the wine and shellfish, cover the pan and lower the heat to medium-low. ■ Cook for 4 to 5 minutes until the clam and mussel shells open up. Discard those that don’t open. Season with salt and pepper, to taste, then add the cooked pasta. ■ Toss until the pasta is evenly coated with the sauce. Arrange on individual plates, garnish with chopped parsley and add more olive oil if you like.

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experience A GASTRONOMIC The Chef’s Table

Hidden among the busy outlets of Buġibba, a few meters away from the main square, lies something interesting, something different, something to look forward for when planning your next dine out. The Chef’s Table is a true gem blessed by the creative hands of one of Malta’s most talented chefs - Alain James Grech. His work is simply impressive, amazing and with that little touch of wow which changes any dining experience from a normal one to something you will remember for a long time. Indeed, his talent creates the magic which has made The Chef’s Table stand out of such a busy crowd. The place is home to some mind-blowing seasonal dishes which can be enjoyed when opting for their seven-course tasting menu which starts off with local bread, Maltese whipped ricotta, traditional arioli and kitchen snacks. No, this is not a normal arioli. The taste is different and better than anyone you tried before. The moment you taste the arioli, you can feel that sense of freshness which can only be offered by a genuine local produce well handled by some truly capable hands.

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Your taste buds are once again put to the test whilst trying the roasted scallops which are complemented with Wardija herb dash, spring onions, a pinch of chili, ginger, coriander and lemon juice. What can exceed our expectations after the scallops? Surprisingly, there are other starter dishes in for that challenge. The homemade ricotta ravioli with Gozitan asparagus, chanter Elle mushrooms, black summer truffle and chive brown butter sauce are truly out of this world. The blend of flavours is so intense and combines in such an exceptional way with the ricotta ravioli. Once you finish the ravioli do not shy away. Ask for an extra piece of bread and do make sure to dip a piece into the remaining gravy.

The selection of mains is also impressive. Their fresh fillet of local caught red snapper creates a perfect marriage between taste, flavour and aesthetic. The same can be said about their Iberico pork chop. Every dish stresses on good produce, sourced from reliable farmers, food producers and importers. For those with a sweet tooth, The Chef’s Table will surely not disappoint you. Their homemade limoncello sorbet is to die for yet their milk and local honey textures is nothing less. Every dish is truly amazing and conveys Chef Grech’s talent, passion and creativity. Passionate about food from a young age – not just preparing it, Alain is one of Malta’s best gastronomic ambassadors. His gastronomic religion is based on the principle to keep it simple, exalt the beauty in every ingredient and above all ensure it tastes amazing. A creed you will quickly come across in his degustation or à la carte menu. The Chef’s Table food experience is certainly not to be missed. The food, the place and the service perfectly come together to make sure you will not be disappointed.

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October 2021

Coctail: Il-Mejilla Rabbit Liver

4, Main Street, L-Imġarr 143, St Dominic Street, Valletta www.nenuthebaker.com

22 581 570 22 581 535 info@nenuthebaker.com

Take a photo of this advert and get a FREE GLASS OF WINE when dining at Nenu the Artisan Baker in Valletta or Imġarr. Valid until end of October 2021.

Fried Rabbit with Rabbit Jus

Governm ent vouc hers acc ept

Octopus stew

Delicious NO 21

Articles inside

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