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WHAT MAKE SHALL I WEAR TONIGHT? The tips of Vain P.37
VOGUE FASHION NIGHT OUT P.21
PATRICIA ROSALES P.43 D
VITTORIO CAMAIANI P.25
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DELLERA The style that is never out of fashion. P.9
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The style that is never out of fashion By Angelica Grittani Mattia Vismara
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meeting with Gigliola Dellera, the designer and the owner of furs brand Dellera, to understand what hides behind the desire of owning a fur and find out what are the new models from the Maison. Gigliola herself is sure that “fur is eclectic�, and it renews in the style and shape, and plays more and more with women’s desire. The luxury and the elegance of the time past are today highlighted by the metropolitan style of an ever-moving woman; there is the exigency of wearing comfortable items that make you feel fine in every situation. The new Dellera collection presents furs in various colours, from Tiffany azure to blue, browns and beige too. What strikes the most is the ease these furs can be worn with: from the versatility of pieces of clothing like coats, stoles and gilets, to the accessories that give an extra touch of originality and elegance to every look.
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A tradition that renews itself: what is the source of inspiration for Dellera’s haute couture items? It is important to look at the past for tradition, but we don’t want fur to become only an item to keep in the wardrobe and to wear for important occasions. For this reason we also look at the present and the biggest source of inspiration is surely fashion that you can see everywhere: every look is allowed, even women that wear sneakers with a fur. Modernity ad luxury: how do these two elements come together in your products? Luxury is given from the kind of material we treat, a material luxurious in itself. For us modernity means to create portable and versatile models, that can be worn in many occasions, like you would do with an anorak or a leather jacket. Fur can be worn with every kind of weather; many may not know that it does not spoil if it wets because of the rain, of course it has to be well dried and not come close to source of warmth, but it can be worn when it rains or snows as well. The quality of the materials and the craftwork production: how can you keep such a high level in the course of time? In order to keep high qualitative standards there is the necessity of keeping the product quality always under control. We have a laboratory in our show-room where we guarantee that furs are perfect before we sell them to our clients. We are a family-run business and we have well-defined jobs: I (Gigliola Dellera, editor’s note) deal with the design, my brother (Andrea Dellera, editor’s note) deals with the commercial sector, leather purchase and selling together with my sister-in-law.
Your collections are meant for young and less young people: what is the reason why women of all ages want one of your furs? First of all, a fur keeps you warm and then allows a look to be more elegant or less elegant, according to what you match it with. It is a piece of clothing always easier to combine. Our furs do not have ages, in other words they adapt to every age: our clients are between 25 and 85 years old. Furthermore, it is possible to do a restyling of used items: after some years many clients come to make the fur remodeled. I have a lot of imagination and I like giving a new look to the fur, which is extremely ductile and suits well to this kind of changes. How important is your brand in selling products not necessarily belonging to your traditional line? Accessories are an important part of our production, because you can play with fur creating low cost impressive accessories as well. There are lapin legwarmers, hats, scarfs, bags: fur can be introduced everywhere and you can have fun designing items with fur. These accessories can be used from season to season, they are never out of fashion.
How can people wear a fur from day to night? Our furs are light, versatile and fabulous combined both with a pair of jeans and a dress or a suit. We might think of thirty-year-old women who work and have a family and for this reason are always busy but they can always be elegant and flawless, going to the office with a mink waistcoat or cloak for a night in which they decide to go out for an event or a dinner. How can you meet the needs of your clients? We do not make custom-cut models, I mean following a particular request from the client. We can try to lead the client to choose a model or another, modifying some details and making it closer to their personal taste.
Thanks to Dellera fur for material allowed.
VOGUE FASHION NIGHT OUT The night shines with fashion By Cristina Giannini Mattia Vismara
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n the last 11th and 16th September, respectively in Rome and Milan, the night has lighted up thanks to the Vogue Fashion Night Out, an event organized by the most famous fashion magazine Vogue Italia, by now at its third edition in Rome and fourth in Milan. An initiative started with the purpose of promoting the world of fashion and everything that surrounds it, also thanks to the many events that many brands organize and the chance to meet some of the most famous designers, who take advantage of this occasion to advertise their work and the guide lines behind their brand. A unique occasion that wants to bring the world of fashion closer to the public, giving the opportunity to experience the feeling of shopping by night, surrounded by a frisky atmosphere. Shopping is a the core of the event, promoted by custom limited edition gadgets marked VFNO, which many brands create exclusively for this night. Moreover, this night is not only about amusement and celebrations, since this year’s proceeds were allocated to the association “Differenza Donna” (va tradotto?), which aims to the Italian and foreign women victims of violence, making available some shelters. Many official partners decided to collaborate and support this night year after year: Visa leads this night’s shopping, giving the chance to ask for a six month subscription to Vogue Italia, buying with Visa Card; Citroën re-confirms its participation to the event sponsoring the new DS3;
Lavazza, takes part again with the creation of special packages; Martini, which in some selected boutiques gives the chance to taste cocktails; QVC, which releases a T-Shirt for sale exclusively on www.qvc.it for the occasion; McArthur Glen takes the VFNO into the most famous outlets, including Castel Romano Designer Outlet. Other special partners made the night more animated: in Rome the Accademia L’ORÉAL celebrated its 10 years of activity, offering many guests free hairstyles and Dimensione Suono Roma, with the presence of some hosts and DJs, created the right soundtrack. The participation of famous brands, the turnout, the captivation and a good idea for a good reason, are the confirmation of the success of this initiative, which enlightens and adorns the most important shopping streets, turning the cities into a great celebration. Year after year people wait for this day, to live an unforgettable shopping night. Too keep informed, discover new events and the future dates, you can click on the website www. vogue.it where you will find every news you might need.
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VITTORIO CAMAIANI “Magycal Labyrinth�: a dream in an evening dress By Emanuela Amy Rossi Selena Magni
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is fashion has deep roots in modern and contemporary art. His woman is elegant, practical and original in every occasion. Here we present you with the evening dresses by Vittorio Camaiani
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Vittorio, tell us about your new Fall/Winter 201415 collection, it is called “Magical Labyrinth, getting lost, finding again” It is a journey through a labyrinth, where dresses lose their sense and can be worn upside down, sometimes. Geometrical shapes, lines, vortex: what was your inspiration for this new collection? I took inspiration from Escher. After visiting an exhibition in Reggio Emilia, I did as he did with one of his works: I reflected myself in it. That’s how I came up with the idea of the “mirror trousers”, with the front part in chiffon. Then I designed dresses with spirals made of fabric that remind of the painting “The Magic Mirror” and others with spirals of metal and fabric that are inspired by “Bond of union”. It a kind of bridge between fashion and art. With my pencil I re-draw the work so that it can become a dress and I try to give a new life to the canvas, hoping that it all won’t fade away after one season. What are your colours for next winter? A long road of grey that cross smaller roads of chartreuse green, violet, red and turquoise. Let’s talk about evening dresses. In your opinion, what should a woman wear for a special night? My advice is always to dress up as you are. A woman who often wears trousers, should wear a suit for a cocktail, better if lighted up by some crystals. Tell us about your dresses: what makes an elegant dress? What features do your items have? My dresses follow the line of inspiration that I feel in my collection. A cloud in the collection dedicated to René Magritte was the line that ran through the whole collection. My magical labyrinth has turned a dress with a low-cut neckline in a bright beige duchesse thanks to block coloured fabrics that made a labyrinth once sewn together. A dress should never lack a detail that recalls the time of the night and some light.
How long does it take to make an evening dress? A long time. These are the items that take the longest time. What celebrities of the show biz wear your dresses? Lists are always boring and trashy, maybe I can name the last one: Marina Ripa di Meana, who loves my dresses and my hats, too. Just check the last spiral one. Why did you decide to take up the formula “Atelier for one day”? It’s the easiest way to bring the customer closer to the dress, touching and dreaming it together. Rome, Bologna, Spoleto, Asolo, Milan: this year I blended magic with my woman who looks at Escher, who’s embodied by the eclectic Roberto Di Costanzo, who draws. There’s the allure of the old halls and the fashion show in Rome in January and July. A relevant place in your art is occupied by hats, original, peculiar and eccentric. How come this love for hats? How do you get the ideas to create them? Every time my pencil sets out and tries to tell my dream, the peak, the explosion comes from the head, so I dedicate my most magical energy to it. It’s like the frame that encloses the masterpiece. I often think “maybe it’s too much” but then the dream fades away and my mind starts to seek for the vision and it all ends in the marvels that will top special heads… and here are my hats.
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WHAT MAKE SHALL I WEAR TONIGHT? The tips of Vain Stylist By Valentina Sorrenti Mattia Vismara
The night is the moment in which you dare the most with the look, but sometimes we do not have the time to change our office outfit with one more suitable for the occasion that awaits. In this cases we can rely on make-up. How? It is very easy: just bring a make-up set in your bag and follow one of these 4 ideas for the night make-up.
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his is the make-up par excellence! The attention is completely focused on the eyes which, enhanced with very emphasized shades, look bigger and longer. The colours for the smokey eyes are of course those that remind of smoke: black, grey, taupe and brown lighted up with silver, gold, champagne and butter, which are applied in the internal corner of the eye and under the eyebrow arch. With this kind of make-up it is fundamental to have light lips, almost ethereal, by utilizing nude lipsticks or transparent lip-gloss.
Dark Smokey Eyes
Intense Lips
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he trend of the moment is to enhance the lips with very important lipsticks and leave the eyes as natural as possible. Red, violet, plum and Bourgogne lipsticks with super glossy finish to apply only on the central part of the lips. On the eyes it is enough to apply a veil of natural eye-shadow and mascara. For this look we advice to pay attention to the base: when you put on important lipsticks, the face has to be perfect, all the imperfections have to be hidden with foundation cream and concealer.
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Cat Eyes
he cat eyes effect is timeless. Just draw a long line of eyeliner that stretched out from the corner of the eye. With this make-up, the choice for the lips is up to you, nude lipsticks are fine as bright ones. When you do this make-up, pay attention to the symmetry, the tails at the end of the eyes should have the same length and inclination.
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COLOR POP
he night is the right moment to dare with colours as well, choosing the intense and bright ones, shades that for the day might be a little exaggerated like blue, green and purple. We can choose strong colours only for the eyes, for the lips or, without exaggerating, to both of them. We have to pay attention to the combination eyeslips, choosing cold nuances or warm shades only.
Amazing shoes. By Angelica Grittani Luisa Attardo
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er shoes are real works of art for the excellent workmanship and creativity which stands out in every model; Patricia Rosales’ creative signature recognizable in each model is a small pearl mounted in the heel. Details make the difference: these high fashion examples arise from the imagination of a woman who dedicates heart and soul into what he does, without forgetting her origins. In 2008, Patricia Rosales, Spanish with Venezuelan origins, began to design her own shoes collection, made exclusively customtailored, and for customers including some Saudi princesses and the pop star Lady Gaga as well. Shoes are very exclusive and have a refined taste, both for the leather used and for ornaments that are real jewels. Each pair of shoes is made with a digital measuring system by studying the shape of the foot for a perfect fit! According to Patricia Rosales “all the women who wear these shoes, will feel unique, original, sensual and mysterious.” An explosive mix that focuses on a thousand and one night accessory.
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How did you come up with the idea to design your own line of shoes? Since I was a child I have been attracted by the beauty and peculiarity of shoes, as if they were works of art. In my opinion, shoes symbolize freedom and just when I was unhappy in a moment of my life, I began the adventure to pursue my biggest dream, that is, creating shoes and putting my soul into what I do. What makes Patricia Rosales’ shoes so unique? We are the ‘only brand that produces women’s shoes custom-made, like real objects of art. We have the ability to fulfill the desire of all women: having high quality shoes, enjoying a personalized experience in the creation process of a shoe, in its design, by selecting materials and, most important, to be able to try the comfort of custom-made accessory. We’re like a haute-couture, but for shoes: entirely handmade and of the best quality. Where does your inspiration come when designing new collections? My inspiration comes mainly from my clients, I want to express their desires and demands. I am very passionate about the cultures of the past, such as the Popol Vuh and the Maya mythology. Who are your shoes designed for? We Imagine a woman who dresses also thinking of her feet, who wants to feel strong and confident, looking for exclusivity and beauty.
What is your most iconic model? The model Monsul, was the first print that I made from my first drawing. I gave it the name of one of the most beautiful beaches of my country, the Spanish region of Almeria. It is also the model that all celebrities have put on. Where can we find your creations? We make shoes on request only, by writing an email to atelier@patriciarosales.com for information and dates. I usually travel with the equipment that I need and I go in the country of my customers. I have been in Saudi Arabia, the UAE and also in Mexico City. On other occasions we can make an appointment with the customers in the major European capitals such as Paris, London and Madrid. What has been your greatest satisfaction so far? There are so many personal stories behind each creation. For example, a day I gave my shoes to a client of mine and I saw a wonderful smile and tears of joy on her face. My greatest desire is to be able to turn the dreams of my clients into reality.
the night inspires the fashion world! The stylists, captivated by its charm, create dresses for a world full of chances. The mystery of the dark inspires the creativity, conquering a thrilling role.
“Night is the other half of life, and the better one�. Johann Wolfgang von Goethe
Night draws a curtain on the rational and opens one to magic. Night, with its dark cloak, brings the best ideas. Stylist give themselves up to the magic of night, which gives them the inspiration to realize wonderful collections. Night makes fashion events special and for some years now, fashion shows have conquered the main streets of the big cities, colouring the shops with parties and exclusive collections made purposely for the occasion and bewitching thousands of people.
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