Warsaw Insider March 2023 #319

#319

Features:

Architecture: Back To The 90s – p. 18

70th Anniversary: the life and death of ‘Rudy’ Bytnar – p. 12

Craft Times: 15th Warsaw Beer Festival – p. 40

Reviews:

Być Może

– p. 33

Lwowska

Macondo Bar – p. 36

Gemba – p. 38

Warsaw Beer Festival – p. 40

El Cafetero – p. 42

Baken – p. 44

Japonki – p. 46

DISCOVER

Galaxy Playground – p. 63

JAN BARBA – p. 64

Paititi – p. 65

Love and Duty.

1863 January Uprising – p. 66

The Vicissitudes of Things. The Allegories of Herman Han – p. 68

IT WAS A SLOG AT TIMES, but the end of Winter is finally in sight. How can we tell? Not by the weather, that’s for certain, because you can bet the last hair on your head that the moment you call Spring that there’ll be a last flurry of snow to keep you on your toes – Poland’s good like that. So no, the only real way to tell is by checking the diary to see when the first beer festival of the year falls – for us at least, that’s the truest sign there is.

Not surprisingly, we’ve found a little bit of space for our favorite event of the year. Beyond that, though, tucked inside this issue you’ll discover our homage to the architecture of the 90s, as well as our tribute to mark the 70th anniversary of one of Warsaw’s greatest acts of wartime courage. Then, to neatly tie it up, find a bumper crop of reviews ranging from the city’s smallest eatery to a cheerful blast of authentic Colombia. As ever, hope you enjoy it and see you next time – adios.

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Editor-in-chief

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Art Director

Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

Marketing Advisor Julia Zajczyk jzajczyk@valkea.com

In Brief

Top of the Class!

March saw Warsaw voted Europe’s top city following a poll conducted by European Best Destinations...

Drawing over half a million votes in all, the vote saw 20 cities battle it out for the title of Europe’s top city. Cited, in particular, for ‘culture’, ‘Instagrammers’, ‘lovers’, families’, ‘shopping’, ‘safety’, ‘green spaces’ and ‘foodies’, the Polish capital found itself called, “beautiful, friendly, green, open-minded, perfect for a family city break, a cultural city break, a shopping experience, and a romantic stay.”

Continuing, the website said: “You will be dazzled by emblematic places such as the Old Town Market Square and its colorful buildings, the Palace of Culture and Science which is the tallest building in Poland, the Łazienki Park and its palaces, pavilions and orangeries.

“During your stay in the Best European destination 2023 do not miss to stroll down Krakowskie Przedmieście, the most prestigious street in Warsaw.”

They added: “Warsaw is a dynamic and sparkling city and there are a thousand activities and experiences to enjoy in Warsaw from tasting local culinary specialties, to a hot air balloon flight or zip line in one of the city’s parks.” Also noted was Warsaw’s safety: “Warsaw is considered one of the safest city breaks in Europe,” said the final appraisal, before reminding readers that the city was three times safer than Paris and twice safer than Rome.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

Metro Revolution

In accordance with the idea of a 15-minute city, February saw City Hall announce plans for three more metro lines by 2050. Following the expansion, 17 of Warsaw’s 18 districts will be covered by the underground, with more than half of the capital’s residents located within a 15-minute walk of the nearest stop. Increasing the length of the metro from 41.5 kilometers to 113 kilometers, the new lines will run from the National Stadium to Żwirki I Wigury, from Tarchomin to Wilanów and from Szamoty to Gocławek.

Defilad Going Green!

Five bids ranging from between PLN 61.2 million to PLN 73.3 million have been submitted as part of a competitive tender process that will decide which contractor redevelops Pl. Defilad. Once a winner is decided, the chosen firm will then have 60 weeks to execute the redesign as previously prepared by the AA Collective studio. Promising less concrete, the project will involve the planting of over 100 new trees, the introduction of thousands of shrubs and plants and, also, a water feature.

Set between the Palace of Culture and the Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw, the plans further envision lawns positioned exactly where tenements once stood before being pulled down to make room for PKiN. Pavements, meanwhile, will be laid where streets once stood.

According to City Hall, the surface of the new square will be covered by six types of stone, with different colors used to mark out former courtyard spaces and suchlike.

It’s A Miracle!

Previously famed for venues such as Cud Nad Wisłą (Miracle on the Wisła), the area around Płyta Desantu will see the return of gastro concepts this summer. Known as the heartbeat of the riverfront’s social scene, the disappearance of Cud Nad Wisłą in 2019 was taken as a body blow by Warsaw’s night owls and a sign that the city had uncomfortably lurched towards outright gentrification. Seen as a collection of cargo containers, few other places caught the hedonistic atmosphere better than Cud and its fellow operations. Now, following a decision by an evaluation committee, this Warsaw legend is set to be welcomed back on the proviso that noise will be closely controlled.

TRANSPORTATION

Exhaust-ing Stuff

Despite moves to discourage car use, Warsaw now has more cars per resident than Berlin and New York…

City Hall’s campaign to ‘de-motorize’ Warsaw appears to have flopped after latest figures revealed that over 135,000 new vehicles were registered in the city in 2022 – nearly twice as many as the previous year.

Bringing the total number of registered vehicles to a whopping 2,139,666 (of which 1,617,498 were passenger cars), the data shows that Warsaw has around 850 cars per 1,000 residents – one of the highest motorization rates in Europe. According to Deputy Mayor Michał Olszewski, this compares to 300 vehicles per 1,000 inhabitants in Berlin, 240 in Copenhagen, 247 in Amsterdam and 246 in New York.

“Even assuming that not all vehicles registered here are actually driven in Warsaw, this still leaves us with one of the highest motorization ratios in Europe,” said Olszewski. Oppositions politicians have been quick to criticize City Hall in light of the revelations, with Marek Szolc slamming the Mayor’s pledges to cut traffic and increase public transport options as being little more than “a PR fairy tale”.

Since taking office, Mayor Trzaskowski has repeatedly promised to slash congestion and reduce the number of cars of the roads; as part of this, ongoing projects to create ‘a new center for Warsaw’ have made much of tactics aimed at making the city less car dependent. The issue, however, appears to be far more complex than initially thought.

Despite this, the findings are perhaps not as bleak as they seem. In their defense, City Hall note that, as things stand, their plans for ‘a new center’ remain very much a work in progress with several major arteries yet to be targeted. Moreover, despite the increase in car registrations, the number remains below the pre-pandemic level. Others, though, remain unconvinced with Councilor Szolc seizing the opportunity to remind the public that in January City Hall made a car the top prize in its first city lottery.

ARCHITECTURE

Pure Art Nouveau

A historic tenement house in the heart of Warsaw has been restored to its prime following a painstaking renovation conducted by the city.

Maksymilian Harczyk.

Six floors in height, and with facades staring out across both Jasna and Sienkiewicza streets, it was an essay in pomp: embellished with cornices, decorative floor tiles, ornamental brass fittings, bas reliefs and balustrades forged in the form of stalks, it set the benchmark for an area that was about to undergo rapid growth and development.

To all intents and purposes, the area soon established itself as Warsaw’s financial heart with banks, insurance companies and credit institutions all clamoring for a piece of the postcode – within the space of a few decades modern Warsaw as we know it had been born, with the tenement joined by a spate of iconic neighboring landmarks such as the House Under the Eagles and the Prudential Tower.

War brought new challenges, and in 1944 thirty-five people were burned alive whilst escaping German shelling. On August 18th, with the Warsaw Uprising raging, dozens of people sought shelter from German gunfire by running into the courtyard only to find that their exit was blocked – scores died in the flames and a plaque now remembers their death.

Formally known as Kamienica Maksymiliana Harczyka, it was designed by Dawid Lange, a Łódź-born architect who achieved longstanding fame for authoring – among others – the Grand Hotel, a place that would later achieve cult status after featuring prominently in the David Lynch classic Inland Empire

Lange’s Warsaw project was no less flamboyant. Completed around 1903, the tenement at Jasna 10 was constructed on the site of a former children’s hospital for the property speculator

With peace declared, Warsaw was a shattered shell of its former self. Of all the buildings in the former financial quarter, only the Harczyk tenement had survived, albeit with several dents and scars. Later, the building went largely overlooked until a two-stage restoration project was launched in 2020. Now fully repainted in its original colors, and with its exterior motifs subjected to careful renovation, this exquisite fragment of Art Nouveau Warsaw has been returned to its full glory.

Spies Like Us

Reputedly a center of Cold War espionage, a unique downtown building appears to have been saved from the wrecking ball…

Colloquially known as ‘Szpiegowo’ (‘Spyville’), an iconic residential block that was once rumored to be a Soviet spy base looks likely to be saved from demolition according to latest reports.

Found close to the Russian Embassy at Sobieskiego 100, the property was seized by the city last year in the immediate aftermath of Russia’s invasion of Ukraine. After originally planning to turn the building over to refugees fleeing the war, City Hall have spent months assessing the building’s standards to see if they met basic safety standards.

With no sign of the original plans, officials have had to undertake a complete inventory of the building whilst simultaneously mapping it. Filled with loose cables, dangerous stairwells and assorted disintegrating elements, fears were raised that only outright demolition could cure it of its ills. Now, however, its future appears to have been safeguarded.

Speaking to the press, Tomasz Bratek, the Deputy Mayor, told reporters that – subject to further inspections – the building would most

likely be saved from the wrecking ball. “Work on inventorying the property is still ongoing,” said Bratek, “however, we can already say with 90% certainty that there will be no need to knock down the building.”

Continuing, Bratek added: “we are striving to restore the residential function of the building, although we can’t say whether that will ultimately be possible. We will need to wait for the end of the technical analysis, a process that I imagine will be completed in a matter of weeks.”

The property has long been considered one of the most enigmatic and mysterious buildings in the capital. Built in the 1970s, and originally serving as quarters for Soviet diplomats stationed in Warsaw, from the outside the apartments raised eyebrows for their unusual form – consisting of two blocks, these separate entities rose inwards like a pyramid and were connected at their apex by an inter-linking bridge.

It proved even more unique on the inside. Sometimes called Warsaw’s first gated apartment complex, access to Sobieskiego 100 was strictly

controlled by guards. Luxurious by the standards of the times, its comforts included a sauna, gym, hairdresser, cinema and basketball court. To all intents and purposes, it was a self-sufficient world.

Built in close proximity to the HQ of Poland’s General Staff, it did not take long before gossips began speculating that the compound doubled as a spy base. For a time these rumors were stifled; when the Iron Curtain was swept back in 1989, Sobieskiego 100 found itself quickly emptied of its Russian residents. Still, this was not the end, but only the beginning of the story.

With its ownership and legal status a matter of dispute between Poland and Russia, the property

fell into dereliction yet remained closely guarded. On the gates, signs appeared claiming it as falling under the ownership of the Russian Embassy.

Briefly leased in 1998 to a mysterious firm that featured a high number of Communist era former Polish agents on its payroll, the espionage rumors refused to subside. When the firm, called Fart, later went bust, notices again appeared declaring the address as the property of Russia; with great frequency, those taking photos often complained of being harassed by goons or being approached by menacing security personnel.

But this was the tip of the iceberg. The handful of urbex explorers that successfully evaded security found evidence of Russian-language documents and newspapers dating from well into the new millennium. One even reported witnessing a suspicious-looking handover taking place on the grounds.

Yet more recently, the address was the site of a club open only to those holding Russian passports. Closed for good in 2017, Club 100 (or Sotka as it was nicknamed) was likewise beset with hearsay. According to one patron, “visitors would have found more Kalashnikovs inside than there were guests.” Finally, though, Russia’s invasion of Ukraine was the final straw. After months of legal posturing, last March saw Mayor Rafał Trzaskowski announcing plans to snag the land back and turn it over to Ukrainian families.

“

Built in close proximity to the HQ of Poland’s General Staff, it did not take long before gossips began speculating that the compound doubled as a spy base.

Every Wall Is A Canvas

Known for her indoor murals, Kamila Lipka speaks to the Insider about her work…

How did you get into painting murals?

I’ve loved painting ever since I was a child, but for several years it was little more than a hobby. I started painting indoors around eight-years back with a friend, but it wasn’t something I took seriously until I joined Poland’s largest mural company, Goodlooking Studio, four-years ago. I gained a lot of experience there and loved every moment, but last March I decided to branch out on my own.

You paint indoors and out – what’s more difficult?

Contrary to how it may appear, I find painting indoors a lot more difficult – because the final work will be viewed at close quarters, everything needs to be precise and perfect. Interiors also require a lot more patience because you’re using smaller brushes. On the plus side, it’s a lot safer as you’re working at lower heights. It’s less tiring as well, and of course you’re not checking the weather every thirty minutes in case all your work gets washed away.

Generally-speaking, we’re seeing a lot more indoor murals appearing in offices, restaurants and suchlike. Have indoor murals become something of a trend?

Absolutely. Murals have gained a lot of popularity in Poland these last few years yet they remain something unusual. They create an impact. Where indoor murals are concerned, restaurant owners have realized that they need to standout beyond just their food. Similarly, when it comes to offices, firms have cottoned onto the fact that they need to make their workplace more attractive and user-friendly.

Is there anything you do differently when painting indoors as opposed to outdoors?

Outdoor murals are more impressive but you need to know how to paint something up close so that it looks good from a distance. In that regard, you need to know when to simplify the work as quite often little details won’t be noticed by people on ground level. This poses a challenge for painters that see themselves as perfectionists. Indoors, on the other hand, you need to make sure everything is perfect. Otherwise, the main difference lies in the preparation: you need finer brushes and a good ladder. You need to secure the floor well and, of course, pray that there’s no carpet as the paint won’t come off!

In your mind, what makes a good mural?

Personally-speaking, a good mural shouldn’t look like a photograph. I try and persuade my clients to try something illustrative which I think looks far more interesting as it fires the imagination. You can see photographic images everywhere you look, so I think it makes a nice change to see murals that do something different. That said, everything depends on the place and the purpose of the mural. If a client asks if I have an idea for a mural, my first answer is ‘it depends’.

Are there any projects you’re particularly proud of?

Yes – the ones that were entirely mine from beginning to end. By that, I mean projects where the client has handed me responsibility for everything. If there was a highlight, I’d say Boca Boca in Warsaw – it’s quite small, so the mural, which is geometric, colorful and a little crazy, is the main decorative element. I also really like Hola Mexico in Rumia – I think the mural fits the restaurant really well. In both cases, I often see photos of dishes taken against the walls, as well as photos of the murals taken by the diners. It’s great that people appreciate the work.

To see more of Kamila's work, visit: warsawinsider.pl/kamila_lipka

This Day In History

The Arsenał Action

Regarded as one of the greatest acts of resistance throughout Warsaw’s war, March 26th marks the 80th anniversary of Operation Arsenał…

This Day In History

Background…

Viewed as a melting pot of decadence, a hotbed of dissent, a cradle of European Jewry and a symbol of Polish independence, no other city aroused as much disdain from the Nazis as Warsaw. Denied the most basic rights, the Poles responded by forming Europe’s largest underground movement. Commonly believed to number around 400,000 members across the country, the Home Army (AK) was the largest of these illicit organizations. However, it was not the only one.

Among the others were the Gray Ranks (Szare Szeregi), a paramilitary scouting group with close affiliations to the AK. Adopting their name in 1940, they were responsible for a string of subversive actions that ranged from the publication of propaganda leaflets to the assassination of collaborators and high-ranking Nazi figures.

Fighting under the nom de guerre of Rudy (Ginger), scoutmaster Jan Bytnar was especially prominent in the Gray Ranks – when he was arrested in 1943, a plan was hatched to free him. Given the codename Mexico II, though more widely celebrated as Akcja pod Arsenałem, the daring operation would enter Polish folklore.

A Life In Dates

1921

Jan Bytnar is born on May 6th in the small south-eastern town of Kolbuszowa. The son of a headmaster and teacher, in 1926 the family move to just outside Warsaw after his father, Stanisław, receives an offer to take up higher studies in the capital.

1930

Though living in the satellite town of Piastów, an offer to attend a prestigious elementary school in Powiśle is too good to refuse. Travelling in each day, Bytnar joins school No. 29 at Zagórna 3. Years later, he resumes his ties with the school by leading a scout group here whilst also running a day room for under-privileged children.

1941

Already active in the underground, Bytnar has already demonstrated commitment to the Polish cause after delivering secret messages in and out of Pawiak prison. In March, he joins the Gray Ranks and by summer is commanding his own unit in the Ochota district.

1942

Leading by action, Bytnar’s escapades include tearing a swastika flag from the Zącheta Gallery (then home to a House of German Culture). In the same year, he constructs an elaborate fold-up pen that allows him to write messages from a distance of four-meters. This comes in handy when he defaces the Aviator Monument on Pl. Unii Lubelskiej (now reconstructed and found at the intersection of Wawelska and Żwirki I Wigury) by painting the Kotwica (the anchor-like symbol of ‘Fighting Poland’) on the plinth.

1931

High grades at school No. 29 earn Bytnar a place at the acclaimed Stefan Batory high school at Myśliwiecka 6. To this day, the school’s reputation precedes itself having attracted visits from such luminaries as Queen Elizabeth II and Michael Jackson. Coinciding with Bytnar’s enrollment in this school, his family move to Mokotów, taking apartment No. 63 at Niepodległości 159.

1934

Bytnar takes the scouting oath and rapidly rises up the ranks – by 1938 he has obtained the highest rank possible.

1937

At school, Bytnar shares a desk with Aleksy Dawidowski, another scout that will later become a war hero – in 1942, Dawidowski becomes the talk of the underground after replacing a German plaque hanging off Warsaw’s Copernicus moment. One year later, he will die during the attempt to free his former classmate.

1943

On New Year’s Eve, Bytnar takes part in an action to blow some train lines near Kraśnik. More than anything, it is a test to check the combat readiness of the Gray Ranks – Bytnar passes with flying colors and on January 18th he shoots a German official on Emili Plater. On February 2nd, during an operation to rescue documents from a flat on Bracka 23, he is wounded in the thigh and recuperates at Koszykowa 75. On March 23rd, he is arrested along with his father during a dawn raid on the family home at Niepodległości.

This Day In History

Arrest, Flight & Death

Detained after German investigators found his address in the notebook of another resistance fighter, Bytnar was immediately taken to Pawiak prison. Searching the apartment, incriminating evidence was found, including stolen German flags and anti-German brochures. Interrogated, Bytnar was the transferred to the Gestapo HQ at Szucha 25 later the same day. Subjected to merciless beatings, by the second day he was unable to move due to the extent of his injuries. Moved to the hospital in Pawiak, little did Bytnar know that a plan to spring him had already been formed.

News of Rudy’s arrest had spread like wildfire, sowing panic and alarm among those linked to him. Often delivering chocolates to the Germans due to his work for the Wedel company, Zygmunt Kaczyński was a familiar visitor to Szucha and it was he who filed a report stating that Bytnar would be moved between the Gestapo HQ and Pawiak. From this information, an operation titled Mexico was born but was abandoned at the last moment after consents weren’t issued.

Rearranged for March 26th, Mexico II was devised with the plan envisaging the Renault truck transporting Rudy being ambushed with petrol bombs as it turned from Długa to Nalewki. Signaled by a whistle, three backup plans were also made with the idea being that the ambush units would then, by in large, retreat to the Old Town. Emergency first aid facilities were arranged in a safehouse on Ursynowska 46, with the wounded – and Rudy – being rushed there in an old car (previously, only a horse and carriage had been available for transport).

Picking their point carefully, the attack was planned for the s-bend outside the Arsenał building as it was known that the prison transport would have to slow at this point.

Likewise, the proximity to the Warsaw Ghetto added a relative shield of safety as it was thought that the Germans would be unlikely to pursue their prey should they cross beyond its walls.

In all, 28 people were to take part in the attack, and news that Rudy was on the move in a stretcher was again passed on by Zygmunt Kaczyński. Using a phone at the Gestapo HQ, he phoned his superiors and, in the presence of several Germans, said: “The goods are being sent – they absolutely must be picked up.” As the truck progressed through Warsaw, operatives utilized a chain of signals (such as exaggerated tips of their hat) to track its journey. However, thereafter little went to plan.

Rather than a clinical extraction, a fierce gun battle ensued after the burning truck rolled to a halt outside Arsenał. Fortunately, several Germans chose not to involve themselves, among them sentries by the Ghetto and a German cyclist who happened to be in the area. Twenty-one prisoners were freed, but the gunfight still raged. The casualties included Bytnar’s childhood friend, Dawidowski, who was fatally wounded. German reinforcements finally arrived 20-minutes after the dust had settled.

Taken to apartments on Kazimierzowska 15 and then Karłowicza 18, it became clear that Rudy’s injuries sustained during interrogation were life-threatening. Finally taken to the Wolski Hospital on Płocka 26, he succumbed to his wounds on March 30th – but not before he was able to furnish his colleagues with the names of his interrogators, both of whom would later be assassinated. Buried under an assumed name at Powązki Military Cemetery, he was posthumously promoted to scoutmaster and awarded the Cross of Valor.

Back To The 90s!

After decades spent living in a controlled environment, the new freedoms offered by the 90s saw a temporary but collective loss of sanity in Poland – plunged headfirst into a bewildering capitalist world, Warsaw became a tapestry of color, chaos and contrasts. Physically manifesting itself by way of the city’s architecture, the years that have followed have seen many of these buildings negatively judged – much like someone looking back at the crappy suit they bought with their first pay cheque, for many the 90s style has come to be viewed as an awkward embarrassment: a reminder of a time when good taste was suspended in the rush to embrace perceived western ways of thinking.

As a result, the last few years have seen many of these buildings condemned – sometimes quite literally. Despite this, many critics are now appreciating these architectural styles for what they represent: a wild and unique time that will never be repeated. Moreover, as clunky and clumsy as many of these buildings may first seem, they have become iconic in their own right, and a vital part of the fabric that makes the patchwork of Warsaw so visually engaging.

For years subject to a backlash, the architecture of the 90s is undergoing an overdue reassessment…

Color Me Mad

Warsaw’s relationship with the rainbow has been complex at best – definitely though, the Rainbow Center (Jagiellońska 15) has fared far better than the rainbow installation that once stood spanning Zbawiciela (arson attacks: seven!). Taking its current form in 1997, it was actually first built in the 50s to serve as the PDT department store. Built as the commercial nucleus of Praga, in 1968 it was visited by over 3.5 million people. Come the political transformation, its popularity nosedived and in the mid-90s Pedet – as it was commonly called – was closed for good. Revived as an office block, it was clad in rainbow colored panels in a bid to breathe fresh life into what had become a decaying hulk.

Intensely jarring but also strangely stimulating, it remains a powerful beacon of 90s excess – but things aren’t always what they seem. As jolly as it might look, within its walls lurk the district’s taxmen.

Residential Rebirth

For decades, Warsaw’s residential sector had barely deviated in style or form – if the immediate post-war years were defined by Socialist Realist edifices, the 60s saw occasionally exotic bursts of modernism – a style that gradually lost out in favor of the vast panel blocks of the 70s and 80s.

Then along came the 90s… Often blockish in appearance, but decorated with curvy

elements and colorful metal balconies, the new look apartments that rose were revolutionary at the time. Its unlikely though that anywhere will stop you in your tracks quite like Twarda 44. Notable for its pair of tall, Cathedral-like spires that soar into the air, this staggering work reached the final shortlist in a contest to find Warsaw’s best building from 1989-1995.

Masterpieces

Not every architect went nuts in the 90s. A graduate of Warsaw’s University of Technology, Stefan Kuryłowicz – who died in a plane crash in 2011 – demonstrated that aesthetics and creative expression were not mutually exclusive. Often credited with transforming the city’s architectural landscape, perhaps his finest work is the easiest to miss.

Slotted effortlessly between an anonymous, soul-grinding Socialist Realist ministry, and a teetering Art Nouveau tenement, Nautilus on Nowogrodzka 9 leans subtly outwards, its silvery skin blending seamlessly with the city’s grey skies. Featuring a bendy roof, circular portholes, and a balcony-like service point jutting over the street, it is a building that captivates all those who pass.

Now housing, among others, the Australian Embassy, it is a must on any architectural safari. “It was created on the wave of changes that took place after 1989,” explains his widow, Ewa Kuryłowicz. “It was a building that wanted to talk about its time and the opportunities it brought. And it brought freedom and everything that came with it.”

These sentiments could just as easily be applied to the university library or, to give it its local name, BUW (Dobra 56/66). Blessed by Pope John Paul II just before it was officially opened on December 15th, 1999, it was designed by Marek Budzyński and Zbigniew Badowski, and even by the haphazard standards of the 90s broke all known conventions.

BY KEVIN DEMARIA EXCEPT BOTTOM RIGHT SHUTTERSTOCK

Touting two distinct segments connected by a transparent overhead roof, it embraced nature way before such statements were on-trend. Fitted out with trellises, it was on these that a galaxy of plants were placed. No less impressive from the outside, the exterior, meanwhile, saw the addition of eight mint green panels inscribed with quotes in eight languages such as Hebrew, Sanskrit and Arabic.

Featuring also a garish indigo colored frame, the building rewards deeper exploration – a trip to its side, for instance, takes visitor on a trail that leads to what’s been hailed as “one of the largest and most beautiful rooftop gardens in Europe”. Every bit as space age as the building down below, wander sloping metal walkways and leafy alcoves whilst brushing past miniature apple trees and vine encrusted pergolas.

Nautilus on Nowogrodzka 9

BUW on Dobra 56/66

Nautilus on Nowogrodzka 9

Revamped & Reinvented

Long before Wola become the CBD it is today, office life was already flourishing. The 90s saw to that, with structures such as the Ilmet and Atrium helping transform Wola’s eastern border into a corporate wall of steel and glass. Beyond that, the long-demolished Mennica building offered up a formidable diamond black façade that had a mystery and menace that was repeated by the cluster of offices around Towarowa and Kasprzaka. Some we have lost already, others are slated for future destruction. A couple, though, have successfully resisted such drastic changes by adapting to the times.

Found close to the Warta Tower – a surviving example of sexy but intimidating glass architecture – the Hop (Chmielna 132/134) is a case in point. Looking increasingly ponderous amid the lithe skyscrapers on the horizon, it underwent a bold metamorphosis in 2021 that saw it repainted with smart, salmon-colored geometric elements. Friendly on the eye, it’s been praised as an example of intelligent redesign.

The Cause Célèbre

A unique product of its time, one of Warsaw’s best surviving examples of 1990s architecture stands to lose it extraordinary color after plans were leaked suggesting that its exterior would be repainted. Opened in 1992, and authored by architects Wolfgang Triessing and Maciej Nowicki, the Sobieski Hotel has often enjoyed a love-hate relationship with the Warsaw public.

Looming over Plac Zawiszy in a riot of color, the building’s façade was devised and painted by Hans Piccottini, an Austrian artist that sought to evoke the spirit of Warsaw’s Old Town through his use of bold, striking shades. Immediately, it divided Varsovians. Unleashing a wave

of hate, the Sobieski was even named the worst building to be built between 1989 and 1995 in a joint poll conducted by Architektura-murator and Życie Warszawy.

Yet whilst its color schemes still have the ability to induce a brain hemorrhage, the building has undergone a rehabilitation of sorts – in 2020, it found itself included in the city conservator’s list of contemporary cultural assets. Although unwaveringly kitsch, several have praised the building for casting cheer on an otherwise glum chunk of Warsaw; yet others have lauded its ability to evoke childlike smiles through its high-impact colors. And in this increasingly sanitized city,

many have pointed out how the Sobieski has become an almost historical testament to the most bizarre and energetic period of Warsaw’s recent history.

It is these very colors, though, that are now under threat after it was revealed in February that the building’s owners were seeking to repaint it using a more subtle palette. With many of the city’s prime examples of 90s architecture already dismantled or otherwise transformed beyond recognition, the news has sparked fierce debate among residents with nostalgists fearing that soon all traces of this vibrant, thrilling period will be lost forever.

Growing Up

The decade saw the skyline change irrevocably with new skyscrapers capturing the capital’s Dynasty-style aspirations. These included the 27-storey Central Tower which, on account of its then peach and blue colored panels, quickly became established as one of Warsaw’s ugliest buildings, a title it held with pride till opting for a tasteful recent facelift; there was Ilmet, with its clunky styling and revolving rooftop Mercedes badge; and Wola’s original skyscraper, the 208-meter Warsaw Trade Tower which was built on the orders of Daewoo before their spectacular collapse.

But most notorious of all, there’s what’s now known as the Atlas Tower. Often likened to a portable toilet, a shower tub or, even, a Red Bull can in the grip of a vice, it was the brainchild of Vahap Toy, a controversial businessman whose plans for Poland included transforming the backwater town of Biała Podlaska into a Vegas-inspired resort complete with an F1 track, replicas of the Seven Wonders of the World and an Olympic stadium. Looking top heavy and contextually out-ofplace, no other tower compares when thinking of the 90s.

Hotel Highs

Surprisingly subtle given much of the vulgarity of the era, the Sheraton (B. Prusa 2) was completed in 1996 and won instant critical praise for the way it integrated into its surrounds – apart from, that is, those who lived directly opposite. In a city still unfamiliar with the concept of reflective glass, local residents initially complained that they could see what their next door neighbors were doing. Replacing a grove of trees that

had grown here ever since the Nazis had burned down the Napoleon Cinema, the Sheraton’s launch was greeted enthusiastically by the press. Gazeta Wyborcza, for instance, gushed about the 24hr fax facilities and the eyewatering USD 350 rooms.

Constructed with a large bay window as its principal visual anchor, the building was topped with a circular, wraparound crown. Like the Marriott – which had opened seven-years previously – it became an island of largesse and prosperity, and few veteran expats will ever forget the long nights of carousing in the Someplace Else bar whilst simultaneously beating away the unsolicited advances of foreign financial advisors. Since hosting the likes of Al Gore, Tony Blair, the Dalai Lama and Pamela Anderson, the hotel traded its original interiors in 2019 for something more contemporary and restrained. From the outside though, it still carries an unmistakably 90s optimistic swagger.

Historical Rewrites

Fusing the historical with the contemporary, the 90s saw a fleet of architects challenging tradition in a way that had rarely been seen before. Rebuilt from scratch, the Jabłonowski Palace overlooking Pl. Teatralny saw a façade erected following the pre-war plan. Spectacularly convincing, only a deeper look behind and to the sides of the building reveals as a new build. Then, how about Powiśle’s Grey Villa (Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 47). Built in 1905, but ravaged during the war, its 90s modernization saw the addition of a glass ceiling and transparent tower. Executed with skill, the merger between new and old impresses as much now as it did back then.

INSIDER'S GUIDE

For a catch-all solution offering a variety of food, drinks and social experiences under one address, check out the following Warsaw legends…

COMMUNITY HUBS & FOOD HALLS

On Show

Warsaw’s first ‘woonerf’ has turned what could have been an ordinary, boring road into a living organism on which people and cyclists flow as one with the passing traffic. Lined with photographic exhibition panels, these currently display images showing Browary’s reconstruction: depicting the step-by-step regeneration, it’s a stunning reminder of how spectacularly the area has changed.

BROWARY WARSZAWSKIE

Grzybowska 58, browarywarszawskie.com.pl

BACK STORY

Established in 1846, the Haberbusch & Schiele brewery that once occupied this plot was the largest such plant in the entire Kingdom of Poland. Later also producing Coca Cola under American license, the complex later fell into complete dereliction. Opened last year after seven-years of work, the resulting Browary Warszawskie has utilized these surviving elements and set them against a swanky backdrop of freshly mapped streets and immaculate new build that feels contextually suited to the district.

OVERVIEW

Billing itself as a premium food hall, the centerpiece of Browary contrasts well against Warsaw’s other offers. Occupying a beautifully lit vaulted chamber that was once used to store beer, this magnificently formed space presents an offer based around a “quality over quantity” with twelve concepts vying for attention. Pertinently, the wider offer has also cemented itself into Warsaw’s conscience thanks to addresses such as Robert Lewandowski’s Nine’s sports bar, a flagship brewery-restaurant, the ever popular Balkan eatery Munja, and Baila – a stunning live entertainment hangout.

ELEKTROWNIA POWIŚLE

ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com

OVERVIEW

Initially completed in 1904 to serve as Warsaw’s primary source of electricity, Elektrownia appears with frequency in local history books – contested during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising (shrapnel holes still dent the building at intervals), it

It's New!

Less than a month old, Gatsby adds to Elektrownia’s excellent cocktail options with an extraordinary offer of dazzling cocktails served to one of the most beautiful crowds in town. Recruiting some of the best bartenders in Warsaw, the drinks of Urszula Trochimiak and Karol Rychlewicz are a sensory pleasure. Featuring a busy schedule of jam sessions, jazz concerts and DJ sets, find it all ably supported by a design that evokes the decadent spirit of the Roaring Twenties.

In March

Elektrownia know how to host a fair so there’s already a buzz around the first edition of the Jestem Organic market. To be held on March 11th and 12th, you’ll be buying healing crystals, plants, herbs, cosmetics, natural supplements and ethically produced clothing.

later powered the Palace of Culture – to this day, the switchboard survives. Relaunched in 2020, the blended approach includes an an exclusive top floor beauty hall filled with cutting edge cosmetic and beauty therapy solutions (Anna Lewandowska has been spotted here!), and a retail offer than tends to shirk the mainstream to instead slant in on contemporary Polish design, upscale vintage, niche brands and established local talent.

F&B

Lit by a sea of neon, the food hall is a street food mecca with star turns provided by Philly’s Finest Cheesesteak and Uki Uki Kikuya. Bracketed either side by two flagship bars, the smoothness of this operation can’t be questioned. But this is all complemented by standalone restaurant project such as the chic and design-minded Dock 19 and legendary, fun-fueled Blue Cactus.

It's New!

MOXO will leave you floored – boasting the tallest bar in Poland (it’s eight meters high), this ambitious project impresses not just through its sheer scale, but also in the manner that it wows. Mixing re-loved industrial equipment with rich violet and blue lighting, the atmosphere is given extra legs by a musical menu featuring DJs and jazz nights. As for food and drink, that follows the global trend for Nikkei – an eclectically absorbing blend of Peruvian and Japanese.

Join The Club

Debuting in February, frequent visitors can now register to join the Norblin Factory Club, an app that will give members access to exclusive offers, promotions and discounts. Free to download, it’s been designed with guests, tenants and suppliers in mind.

NORBLIN FACTORY ul.

OVERVIEW

Opened on the site of a former metal factory, the scale of Norblin takes a while to sink in. A beautiful combination of new and old, it’s a photogenic example of everything that makes modern Warsaw so captivating. Representing 200-years of history, the two hectare site is riddled with over 50 leftovers from the Industrial Revolution and these are set against attractions such as the luxury Kinogram cinema (champagne vending machines!), the immersive Art Box Experience, the only Apple Museum in the country (as in the tech brand, not the fruit), a factory museum and the Smart Kids Planet – a 1,600 sq/m project with nine zones that aim to promote logical thinking, healthy eating, motor functions, perception and creative thinking.

F&B

Warsaw’s largest food hall (23 food points and five bars!) has been intelligently designed so as to retain intimacy while never ceasing to remind visitors as to its diverse range of choices – the so-called ‘Asian district’ scores particularly highly. In standalone terms, top marks go to the elegant Piano Bar, the eclectic Uwaga craft beer haven, and the Tex Mex of Blue Cactus. Finally, check into the Bio Bazar, a farmers’ market with a reputation that extends nationwide.

Żelazna 51/53, fabrykanorblina.pl

Mark The Date

Gwardii’s non-standard events have aided their mission to appeal to all: in March, highlights include the only shoe and handbag fair in Poland (March 3rd to 5th), a jewelry fair (March 24th to 26th), and a Japanese weekend running from March 17th to 19th.

Go Japanese

Offering the full Japanese immersion experience, swing in to view samurai armor, stock up on Manga comics, and listen to the pianist and YouTuber Koki Suetsugu perform tunes from Demon Slayer and Super Mario!

But that’s just the beginning. Shop knives from Macknives, ceramics from Bakaliko, Char Vintage and Wabi Sabi Art, kimonos from InuGami, gadgets and figurines from Plastiq, soy candles from Eco Soja, teas from Herbaty Czas and Moya Matcha, and uber cool city bikes from TokyoBike. Tying it all up, find Warsaw’s top Japanese eateries setting up stalls selling onigiri sandwiches, Takoyaki balls, ramen, fresh mochi, and fish-shaped taiyaki biscuits.

HALA GWARDII

Pl. Mirowska 2, halagwardii.pl

BACK STORY

Built as a market hall during Tsarist times, in later years Gwardii became ‘the home of Polish boxing’ – in 1953, under the guidance of coach Feliks Stamm, Poland’s team triumphed over its Soviet and German counterparts to rack up a horde of nine

medals at the European Boxing Championship. Resurrected as a food hall in 2017, its unpolished interiors have helped it retain a gritty authenticity and a lingering sense of history that’s appreciated by all. Note, unlike Warsaw other hubs, Gwardii is a weekend affair that’s open only from Friday through to Sunday.

F&B

There’s two sides to Gwardii, almost literally. On one, find a

farmers’ market whose gems include freshly baked goods, local jams and preserves, and fresh fruit and veg. Then, separated by a communal eating area, find a row of street food hawkers covering a span of global cuisines. Gluing it altogether is the social angle: don’t leave without an expertly poured Guinness from The Shamrock, craft beer from San Escobar or Piwna Gwardii or a cheeky glass of wine from the exceptional Niewinność.

HALA KOSZYKI

ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com

OVERVIEW

Revolutionizing Warsaw’s food and drink scene, the 2016 reopening of Koszyki can be considered one of the watershed moments in the city’s gastro timeline. Considered the grande dame of food halls, the brick and wrought iron interiors of this spot look beautiful with the F&B offer split between standalone restaurants such as the fancy Warszawski Sen to vendors like the fist-bumping, burrito boys at Gringo. For craft beer and grilled sausages then Kiełba w Gębie don’t put a foot wrong, though the biggest lines are usually reserved for Soul Food Burgers. The open-all-hours ĆMA is a legend in its own lifetime, whilst The Upper Deck has won credit for its cocktails. Gluing it all together, the Central Bar remains the top check-in.

Save The Date

Koszyki has long reveled in its cultured reputation – from classical evenings to history walks and book signings, there’s rarely a dull month. That’s also true of March – kicking-off the month, dress your best on the 1st for a haute couture fashion show that’ll be attended by the city’s glitterati. Featuring clothes designed by Konrad Bikowski, they were created using a 100-meter satin painted over by Karol Prochacki. The show starts at 8 p.m. Later in the month, turn up on the 25th to enjoy the third edition of the all-day Koszyki Design Fair – you’ll find yourself perusing ceramics, scented candles, jewelry and assorted Made In Poland handicrafts.

CENTRUM PRASKIE KONESER

Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu

OVERVIEW

Built in 1897, from its early inception Koneser was designed with one duty in mind: to produce vodka. Nationalized after WWII, Koneser only finished producing vodka in 2007; by that time, the plant was in dire need of care and attention and its Neo Gothic architectural details looked destined to rot and die. But not so. Subjected to a seven-year restoration process, it reopened

in 2018 as a mixed-use project containing cultural sites, F&B outlets, swanky offices and loft-style apartments – no other investment has had a bigger impact on Praga’s overdue regeneration than Koneser. Culturally, it’s also done much thanks to the Polish Vodka Museum, the Museum of Fantastic Art and temporary exhibitions such as Banksy in 2021.

F&B

For foodies, the lynchpin that holds the food and drink offer together is Koneser Grill. Belong-

ing to the portfolio of Ferment Group (owners and creators of Rozbrat 20, Butchery & Wine and a string of other essential eateries), enjoy a sophisticated, meat-centric menu amid smooth lighting, blond woods, metal fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colors. Then, you’ve got the small matter of Bombaj Masala and its Indian street bites served in eclectic surrounds, and newbies such as Setki Powodów, a vibrant, fun space with on-tap cocktails, crazy shots and a menu devised by Insider favorite Michał Bryś (formerly our Chef of the Year).

For The Diary

Ongoing until May 28th, visit the Museum of Fantastic Art to view pieces by some of the biggest names in the field: Zdzisław Beksiński, Jerzy Duda-Gracz, Wiesław Wałkuski, Dariusz Zawadzki, Jacek Szynkarczuk, and Andrzej Olczyk. Of Koneser’s other events, fashion plays highly in March with a ‘wool fashion fair’ scheduled for the 25th and a ‘dress fair’ on the 4th and 5th. Swing by also on the last weekend of March for the Praga Market, an event that will present the latest Polish fashion, natural cosmetics, ecological preserves, toys, plants and home design pieces.

WHITE MAGIC

Beautiful

ascetic, Być Może has become one of the year’s big debuts…

Likened by some to a Disney castle, and by others to New York’s Dakota building (think Rosemary’s Baby), the property occupying the corner of Lwowska and Koszykowa has long been viewed as one of Warsaw’s golden pre-war nuggets. Already containing the super cool Autor Rooms B&B and the absurdly raucous Beer Station, there’s now a third reason to visit should you have previously failed to do so.

Already established as a legend on nearby Plac Unii Lubelskiej, the latest outpost of Być Może is the most attractive, set as it is behind gloriously arched windows that allow for lashings of light to come sloping in. Accenting the stark whiteon-white color palette, a line of plush dark banquettes run down the walls, with a subtle punch of color supplied by this year’s candidate for Plant of the Year.

Riding a wave of ludicrous popularity, you sense the buzz the moment you enter – perching around the marble-topped tables find the full assortment of Warsaw’s café creatures: from headphone-wearing digital nomads to Tik Tokking girls giving their SocMed accounts a boost. Joining them, however, isn’t as easy as it looks. As the sign sternly commands, you’ll need to wait to be seated, a process frequently conducted by flustered-looking staff in the early grips of panic.

Set to a V-shaped floorplan, it’s the left-side that is most coveted for here lies the sit-down section. High on people-watching opportunities, convene to pick through a menu featuring

crowd-pleasing bagels, French toasts, shakshuka and a heap of baked goodies. Even the coffee will often arrive with customized foam art.

But yes, you will not always find a seat. In these moments, instead head to the bakery side to arm up on fresh loaves and baguettes, or jarred and bottled goodies from the likes of Wilkin & Sons (our fave: the hot mango sauce). Then there’s the counter itself, a colorful section spread

with macaroons, tarts and pastries. Consistent in their quality, you quickly understand what the fuss is about. More than just a bakery, Być Może have become a Warsaw institution – this latest venture, that’s the icing on the cake.

Być Może Lwowska 17, fb.com/bycmozewarszawa

Based around the concept of sharing, Michał Gniadek’s contemporary menu challenges diners to see food through a fresh, new prism. Flexitarian in approach, enjoy his unique flavors inside a chic space found in our quiet, green enclave of the city center.

Inquiries about reservations should be sent to the following e-mail address: rezerwacje@klonn.pl

ul. Jazdów 1B, klonn.pl

COLOMBIAN COLORS

brightly colored South American fabrics and the occasional wall painting.

EAT IT

From double-fried plantain pancakes heaped with guacamole and pulled beef to thick corn tortillas stuffed with Korycin cow’s milk cheese, pico de gallo and guasacaca sauce, this is food that makes you happy. Presented as a mass of fried egg, avocado, bacon, pulled beef, chorizo and beans, the Bandeja Pais is a natural born filler, though for the star of the show look no further than the crispy empanadas.

DRINK IT

This is a happy space, and the drinks play a role in that – to get the party rolling, order up drinks such as caipirinha, pisco sour or passion fruit michelada. Macondo’s inventive takes on South American standards are very much worth your time.

FEEL IT

FIND IT

A stone’s throw from the cosmic 1960s saucer building that once acted as the ticket hall for Warszawa Powiśle station, find Macondo buried in the base of one of the supporting towers that prop up Poniatowski Bridge.

SEE IT

Huge curving windows allow light to slip in during the day. Riddled with plants and flagstone floors, once dusk sets, pendant basket lights soak this space in a warm glow. Along the way, bursts of color are provided by

Summer sees the party spilling outside, but even on gloomy days Macondo’s feel-good spirit is utterly infectious. As tough as it is to find a seat, you owe it to yourself to swing by for one of their salsa evenings or Latin jazz nights. Filled with gyrating South American expats, nights here spin by in a whirl of color and unrestrained laughter. If Macondo was a pill, it’d be prescribed for depression – it’s that effective.

Macondo Bar

Kruczkowskiego 15B

(Poniatowski Bridge)

Discover a sunny South American jewel hiding around the murky arches of Poniatowski Bridge…

5 years of community building

5 years of respecting history

5 years of helping

5 years of successful partnership with City Hall

Japanese Weekend

March 17, 18 and 19

Open Friday through Sunday

Plac Żelaznej Bramy 1

halagwardii.pl

A HIDDEN GEM-BA!

Relocating themselves after years on Wilcza, the new-look Gemba has become a star of Chmielna…

LOCATION, LOCATION

We’ve had something of a rocky relationship with Chmielna. Once one of Warsaw’s key high streets, the last decade or so has seen it degenerate into a scuffed-looking space filled with shuttered shopfronts and tacky bubble tea joints. That said, a flurry of bars have given it wings, not least places such as Hopito, Hoppiness and Pinta. Found in a courtyard just off Warsaw’s most maligned piece of concrete (that’s the scandalously spartan Pl. Pięciu Rogów), the launch of Gemba give another reason to give the area a crack.

BEFORE…

Formerly of Wilcza, Gemba’s seven-year tenure in south-central saw it acquire a cult reputation. Accessed over a steel walkway, this two-level space became synonymous with late nights. Often open waaaay after the other neighborhood bars had closed, it was a bar that many used to put the concluding final touches to an epic night out.

AND NOW…

Shifting north in January, the Gemba you see now has lost none of its party-first spir-

it. Adopting a loose-fitting PRL style, interiors include wood-paneled walls decorated with pics of Pope JPII, sporting pennants and framed artworks from the heyday of the Polish School of Poster. Tricked out with retro wallpaper, the perches by the bar are the most sought, but spillover seating can also be found in a winter garden enclosed by green and scarlet drapes – very David Lynch.

FOOD & DRINK

The choice of beers feels far more modest than their previous address, but the fridge covers all the bases with beers from solid breweries like Bernard and Obolon, as well as Polish craft from established names such as Pinta, Trzy Kumpli and Inne Beczki. There’s nothing too maverick here, but the choice is broad enough to satisfy a beer monster’s cravings. Hovering

around the PLN 30 mark, the house cocktails involve classics like the Manhattan and Old Fashioned, as well as more unusual options like Ewa Bem – Gibson’s gin, pink grapefruit, maple syrup and rosemary. Also making a big deal out of their Polish tapas, stomach liners come in the form of white sauage. Herring, Poland’s version of black pudding – a.k.a. kaszanka, and a quite fabulous tartar.

IT FEELS LIKE…

It doesn’t just look fun, it feels it as well. Busy through the week, as the rainbow flag attests this is an inclusive space that feels pleasingly international. Drawing a crowd that’s late-20s upwards, there’s a hell of a lot to enjoy here – DJ sets, jazz jams and ‘drag bingo’ serve to only reinforce that impression.

COMING UP

Those familiar with Wrocław will doubtless know the Neon Side Gallery – a courtyard filled with well over twenty neon signs dating from Poland’s years behind the Iron Curtain. Providing the paperwork can be provided, we’re told that this courtyard’s owner hopes to do something similar. We’re not holding our breath, but the idea alone is completely delicious.

BEER WE GO AGAIN

For the 15th time, the Polish capital is gearing up for the Warsaw Beer Festival

WELCOME TO WARSAW

Withstanding significant recent challenges, Poland’s craft beer sector has rolled with the punches to maintain its rocketing reputation – and that looks set to be demonstrated at the forthcoming edition of the WBF (Warsaw Beer Festival).

“Taking everything into account, the craft beer scene couldn’t be in any better shape and that’s reflected by the choice of beers you’ll find at the festival,” says Paweł Leszczyński, the festival’s founder.

“Around Poland, young people have come back from abroad

inspired, and they’re trying to create something new – and you can apply that to the beer scene as well. With so little heritage to reflect upon, our brewers have proved to be among the most experimental.” Moreover, they’ve transpired to be quick-learning perfectionists, as well.

THE BEER

Although a handful of select foreign breweries will be present, the WBF exists to showcase the skills of Poland’s own homegrown brewers. “Some breweries will have been planning for the WBF for six-months,” says Leszczyński. “In this regard, it’s ultra-competitive. Everyone wants to show that they’re the best. For the consumer, that means there’s no such thing as a bad beer at the WBF.”

TREND WATCH

When Poland’s first craft beer was tapped just over a decade ago, there could have been few that would have imagined the different roads it would travel down. But though shock factor beers will play a role at the WBF, Leszczyński expects a re-appraisal of the classics.

“West Coast beers are again a thing, and low-to-no alcohol beers continue to enjoy popularity. Domestically, we’re also seeing a lot of so-called ice beers being produced. With over 1,000 different beers, you are going to find something to fall in love with, though I’d really recommend visitors spend time talking to the brewers. Think of them as beer ambassadors.”

MADE IN POLAND

Although Poland lacks the beer history of Germany, Belgium, Czechia and so forth, that’s not to say the country doesn’t have its own heritage beers. “Our smoked Grodziskie-style beers are amazing,” says Leszczyński, “you don’t have to like them, but they’re absolutely unique. Furthermore, I honestly think our Baltic porters are the best in the world.”

IN NUMBERS

1,200

The number of different beers available at WBF

500

The number of taps

200

The number of beer premiers

18,000

The number of visitors expected

65

The number of breweries present

ONE IN A MILLION!

As per previous editions, expect much buzz around the Newbie Zone. “We really want to spotlight the best of the little guys,” says Leszczyński. “The smallest brewery only produces 200 liters per batch, so if you’re not at the WBF it’s going to be

What: 15th Warsaw Beer Festival

Where: Legia Stadium (Łazienkowska 3)

When: March 23rd to March 25th

practically impossible to ever try their beer.”

INFRASTRUCTURE

From chaotic beginnings when it was held in an industrial unit in Mokotów, the WBF has developed confidently. In this respect, its tenure at Legia Warszawa’s stadium has proved key. Well-adapted to coping with unwieldy crowds, the state-of-the-art football ground has helped lift the WBF to new levels.

“I think a beer festival is defined by where it is held,” says Leszczyński. “We couldn’t have found a better venue – here we have a place that’s central and easily accessed by bus or cab. And show me another beer festival where you have clean toilets and no queue to get in!”

MORE THAN BEER…

You suspect that the WBF would still succeed even if a prohibition was announced. “It’s not just Poland’s beer scene that has grown,” says Leszczyński, “but the scope of the festival – it’s a given that we have the country’s best beer, but we wanted the WBF to offer more which is why you’ll now find 17 food trucks, a sauna, spicy food competitions, standup, workshops, and games zones.”

Web: warsawbeerfestival.com

Tickets: Available online

PLN 20 (single-day pass)

PLN 39 (three-day)

Premium packages also available from PLN 99 to PLN 199.

INSIDER’S SECRET

Subtly sneaked away from the clamor of Marszałkowska, El Cafetero is the neighborhood secret that all need to know…

A FAMILY AFFAIR

First born as a roastery overseen by a father and son, El Cafetero’s growing reputation all but demanded a café in which their results could be showcased. Headed by Milena, the sister of head roaster Konrad, it’s not just her coffee knowledge that has helped the café grow wings, but also the warmth of her welcome – after one visit, you leave with the million dollar feeling of being a seasoned regular.

THE PLACE

Don’t let the Marszałkowska address fool you. Set away from the parping traffic and wailing trams, El Cafetero sits amid a row of stores found in the shadow cast by the back end of Pl. Zbawiciela’s iconic church. Presenting quite a sight, its patinated domes and intricate steeples have you thinking you’re somewhere cute and quaint like Vilnius or Lublin. Once the warmer weather hits, admire it from the bench that rests against El Cafetero’s façade. For certain, that bench sees a lot of action – absolutely

tiny in its size, four people are enough to make the interior feel crowded. But what a pleasant space it is: touting a wall of coffee-themed Polaroids and little hanging plant pots, you’re happy to dawdle in this light and bright feelgood space. If you’re in luck, that means snaring one of the window seats.

DRINK ME

Neatly presented on the shelves by the entrance, discover the biggest glories of the El Cafetero brand. Bagged up and begging for your enjoyment, these are almost exclusively single origin coffees from Africa and Central and South America. Doing all the fancy filtered stuff, even those bamboozled by the coffee geekery will admire such standards as the silky flat white.

ORDER THIS

The tiled emerald green counter has been designed to leave just enough space for tempting tasties such as vegan-friendly chocolate and cherry tarts. You might be here for the coffee, but neither should you miss out on these little treasures.

Review

BREAD & BREAKFAST

Simple but impactful, Baken has already secured its spot on the foodie map of Warsaw…

When René Redzepi announced the closure of his innovative temple of gastronomy, NOMA, it seemed to confirm the tanking stock of the fine dining sector. But if fine dining is on the way out, then comfort dining is well and truly in – and what can be more comforting than bread and all-day breakfast?

THE PLACE

Pronounced ‘bach-in’ rather than ‘bacon’, Baken shines like a beacon amid the soulless, socialist edifices that line the streets of Krucza and Żurawia. Stepping inside, Baken feels like a merger between the chic streets of Paris and the cozy corners of Copenhagen, with its delectable breads and inviting atmosphere hinting at French and Danish charm. It’s hard not to be hit with a wave of excitement entering, with the energy conducted through an open kitchen and expressed by handsome staff clad in white t-shirts. Enthusiastic and knowledgeable, they gush about the dishes as if they were their own secret family recipes.

SIMPLE AS F**K

That’s Baken’s own mission statement, with plates

presented in a manner that smacks of Yotam Ottolenghi: think organized chaos. Using ingredients sourced from the market at Hala Mirowska, and batch-brewed coffee from Java Roaster (make use of the halfprice refill!), it’s a place where the product is the hero.

WHAT WE ATE

The must-try is the creamy scrambled eggs from the happy hens of Rozwienica. Accompanied by kale fried with butter and garlic, find them crowned with day-old breadcrumbs and a shower of Emilgrana cheese and chives. When it comes to hidden gems, look on the side menu for thinly-sliced avocado seasoned with chili, oil and Malden salt – post to Insta and it’ll definitely enliven your algorithm.

As for the sweeter side, heavenly plum Crêpes Suzette come soaked in aromatic cardamom syrup before being served with homemade crème fraîche, pancakes and gingerbread crumble. It’s a feast for the senses. And, of course, don’t forego the bread. There’s three to choose from, with the options numbering the Berlin (90% rye and 10% wheat), a classic sourdough with poppy seeds, and a Polish staple called Ziarenko, a soft wheat bread with a delicate skin and

mixed seeds such as linseed, sesame, poppy, and nigella.

CELEBRATE THE CHEFS

Leading the line is Michał Toczyłowski, a chef who gained his experience in renowned establishments such as Atelier Amaro, Nolita, Nabo, Sowa i Przyjaciele, and Bez Tytylu. As for the baking, that’s left to Artem Artemev, a star in his own right.

INSIDER KNOWLEDGE

If you’re stocking up on bread, then why not snap up an organic cotton tote bag complete with Baken’s striking san-serif logo. If you’re visiting in the evening, then check their refined selection of natural wine. - KD

“

Baken feels like a merger between the chic streets of Paris and the cozy corners of Copenhagen...

SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL

There’s a saying in English that “three’s a crowd”. In Japonki, that’s actually true. Seating just three people (“we’ll squeeze in four if you all know each other,” laughs the chef, Max), the dimensions are so tight that diners find themselves practically on top of the staff – literally. Perched on a narrow bench, eating is done looking right down onto the sushi staff working in a space below that can’t be much bigger than a bathtub. Lean a little forward, and you’re almost able to tap them on the head with a chopstick.

Vying for the title of Warsaw’s smallest restaurant, Japonki will leave you wowed…

THEN…

Given their previous guise, that is all something of a comedown. Japonki, you may remember, became a foodie buzzword when they first launched in Browary in 2021. Pushing a look that was casual but cool, there it was all dappled terrazzo flooring, high-gloss shades of midnight black, and intricate red shelving stacked like a cat’s cradle. Shining through it all, a magenta neon to underscore the pre-club vibe. No arguments about it, it was the most fashionable sushi haunt in town.

NOW…

Soaring costs made that location unviable, but rather than

wave the white flag, the Japonki team moved across town to settle on Lwowska. Downsizing drastically, so tiny is the current location that you’re likely to miss it if you blink. And with no sign outside, that’s not the exaggeration it may at first seem. But is any of that a bad thing? Absolutely not. As on-trend as the previous address was, it smacked of artifice. Moreover, it’s size and look made it feel a little impersonal.

Here, on Lwowska, the intimate dimensions dictate that by the time you leave, you know everyone there. That’s a helluva’ nice feeling. Moreover, the private and undiscovered nature of Japonki reminds you

of the kind of secret little sushi spots that Antony Bourdain would seek on his jaunts to the backstreets of Japan. Woodclad, and with a few strips of neon angled around the counter, there’s not much to the design, but it doesn’t need anything more.

THE WIN…

So yes, we approve of the look, but it’s the food that’s the winner. Leading the lads in the kitchen (if you can call it that) is Dawid Uszyński, a chef whose history includes stints in numerous Michelin-starred London eateries as well as five-years at Yashin Ocean House.

The fish that glisten at you are the best available, and they’re chopped with finesse before being meticulously placed on short-grained rice blended with a selection of Japanese vinegars. Served with smoky ponzu jelly, our nigiri box was faultless in every respect. As unusual as it might look when compared to Warsaw’s other Japanese choices, Japonki is without fail among the market leaders in terms of tastes, atmosphere, and overall greatness.

“

Japonki is without fail among the market leaders in terms of tastes, atmosphere, and overall greatness...

Japonki Lwowska 9, japonkisushi.pl

Bars & Nightlife

From the mainstream to the maverick, we present some of our solutions for your big weekend out…

has helped create a friendly but rowdy community of drinkers that hail from Poland’s eastern borders. Craft beers are present, but so too are more standard lager. That said, as the night draws in, don’t be surprised to find yourself swapping them for shots whilst all hell breaks loose.

BEIRUT & KRAKEN

Poznańska 12

Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (grenades, sandbags, ammo boxes, a rocket…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this long, skinny bar. As fashionable now as it was when it opened, forget not to finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style Kraken Rum Bar. Everybody else does at some stage or other, with evenings often dissolving into a wild, happy whirl of international voices.

CHMURY / HYDROZAGADKA

11 Listopada 22

Pardon To Tu

Al. Armii Ludowej 14

Despite the upgrade in surrounds, they’ve retained the leftfield spirit of their old haunt thanks to flexi hours, a commitment to obscure sounds, and a wellspaced interior that references their former venue through its decadent color scheme and wall of favored musicians. The air of friendly, unforced cool is unmatched in the city!

BAR PACYFIK

Hoża 61

Seemingly based upon the kind of Tijuana dive bar you’d have happened upon during the Miami Vice era, Pacyfik is all candy floss pink and shades of teal: a raw-looking den that looks purposefully imperfect. Keeping the hip international crowd on the wrong side of drunk are kick-ass drinks such as their Clamado Michelada or Kimchi Bloody Mary – three sips and you

think you’re Superman.

BEER STATION CENTRUM

Lwowska 17

When temperatures nosedive, who doesn’t love a subterranean dive buried down a narrow set of stairs. Looking almost cave-like, there’s a spirit here that puts you instantly at ease. Run by a team of Belarussian exiles (Lukashenko Out!), the welcome from the owners is warm and sincere, and their presence

Set in a fleapit courtyard, it’s hard to tell where one begins and the other ends, but both are spiritually cojoined by a devotion to eclectic live music. Tight and crowded, it’s a place where audience and band become one, feeding off each other to generate an electrifying atmosphere.

FOTON

Wilcza 9A

You know it’s been an epic weekend when you wake up on Monday knowing that Foton was involved. Conversation with strangers is natural after a few of Foton’s cocktails, and these are enjoyed to a cool backdrop made up of fleet of tumbling plants perched on steelframed irrigational contraptions.

HAVANA

Słowackiego 16/18

Set on the first floor of a PRL era tower, the super cool interior offers

up a coherent display of retro posters, luscious plants and light wood trimmings that are respectful of this space’s former life as a 1960s cafe. Perched among hip freelancers and theater types learning their lines, sip away on trendy bio wines, adventurous lemonades, craft swigs or specialty coffee sourced from local roasters.

KLUBOKAWIARNIA TOWARZYSKA

Zwycięzców 49

An offbeat locale inside a recharged 1950s pavilion, find Towarzyska crowned with a tilting neon sign. Offering a fridge full of craft beer, competent cocktails, homemade lemonades and other alternative-minded drinks, it’s the best late night in Saka Kępa – true, it’s just about the only one, but that’s beside the point.

LEGENDS

Emilii Plater 25

Run by Graham, an ex-embassy bod and devout Everton fan (well, someone has to be), this Brit pub has become the de facto choice when the football is on. Or the rugby. Or the cricket. Or just about any other sport that expats care to watch. Whether it’s the Champions League or Bristol City on a wet, Tuesday night, there’s just no better space for boozy banter while the match unfolds.

NINE’S

Haberbuscha i Schielego 6 (Browary Warszawskie)

Owned by Robert Lewandowski, and named Nine’s in honor of the number he’s worn ever since starting his career at Znicz Pruszkow, this four-floor project has become Warsaw’s sports bar of choice. Filled with memorabilia (e.g. the boots Lewy wore when he broke the Bundesliga scoring record), features of this mega-pub include goal nets to act as petitions between seating booths, bar stools redolent of the plastic seats seen in stadiums,

and tables embossed with pitch markings and other such frills. And on the top floor, a large screen facing onto seating that mimics the tribunes found in football grounds.

NOWY ŚWIAT ‘PAVILIONS’

Nowy Świat 26

For the highest condensation of bars in the capital head to ‘the pavilions’, a collection of ramshackle drinking cabins, shot bars and sheesha lairs inside a tight grid of shadowy back alleys. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same –accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk and chaos.

PIANO BAR

Żelazna 51/53 (Norblin Factory)

Norblin’s Piano Bar works all-year round, but in winter its sense of easy prosperity provides a glint of optimism when skies are bleak. Dazzling with its 12-foot chandelier, the Gatsby vibe is given added oomph by a design that makes use of chessboard floors and wisely-chosen extras. The program of concerts elevate the weekend atmosphere with funks and blues jams something of a forte.

RITUAL

Mazowiecka 12

Looking dark and sensual, this two-level space unwraps before you like some elaborate adventure. Candles flicker, atmosphere crackles – moving towards the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of unfathomable beauty prowl past with drinks poised in hand. Heating up gradually as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous bar to a spicy club as the night ebbs towards its heady conclusion.

THE SHAMROCK

Zgoda 5

The Shamrock is little more than a shabby bare room lit by a greenish Carlsberg sign. But the dearth of

aesthetic thrills is compensated via its atmosphere. Find a melting pot of nationalities slopping beers over each other while shouting their orders to Curtis and his family behind the bar – high on noise and bellowed banter, the atmosphere cranks yet further whenever Curtis grabs his guitar to lead his audience in song.

WOREK KOŚCI

Bagatela 10

There is nothing ordinary about Worek Kości and it could as easily earn a place on this list for its décor as it could its burlesque entertainment program. Instead though, those amusements are edged out by their regular roster of lectures on criminal profiling, forensics, serial killers and execution methods. A passionate celebration of the beautiful and bizarre, this bar has no equal.

WOZOWNIA

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16 Festooned with herby plants, it’s a luscious backdrop to drink, one that’s lent a gritty urban contrast by the shabby walls of the tenements that frame the courtyard. As for drinks, there’s some classic cocktails which you’ll need to order from the bar inside the 200-year-old carriage house at the end. Warning: cards only!

W OPARACH W ABSURDU

Ząbkowska 6

Regional and craft beers lurk within the fridge, but for the seminal Absurdu experience you’ll need to order a tray of vodkas before bulldozing through the crowds that gather to listen to Balkan rock and Afro-Latin bands. Somewhere, hidden deep beneath the creaking antiques and moth-eaten Persian rugs, you might be lucky to find a wood-carved bar, and just exploring this musty space is an adventure in itself. Emitting the kind of alternative Boho spirit more frequently found in artsy places like Kraków, delve further still to uncover a mouse hole packed with excitable regulars.

Wine & Cocktails

Where lie our favorite wine bars and cocktail lounges? Look no further…

here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald. Karim Bibars, the man behind it all, is one Poland’s best-known cocktail kings, and his drinks are the personification of liquid elegance.

EL KOKTEL

Wojciecha Górskiego 9

Such is the standard, it’s impossible to call out Warsaw’s best cocktail bar, but somewhere towards the top invariably stands the intimate El Koktel. Starlit with Edison bulbs, and touting a palm-sized mezzanine over which you can peer at the bar, the rich midnight colors of El Koktel are paired with a sublime drinks offer that takes you down almost impossible twists and turns.

NOLA

Wilcza 43

Niewinność

Zgoda 5

If Niewinność sounds familiar then so it bloody well should – present in Hala Gwardii since about Year Dot, it was this original joint that helped popularize wine with Warsaw’s younger drinkers. Completely lacking in that frosty formality that defines many wine spots, the welcome here has more in line with entering your favorite local bar. Casual and comfy but never short of chic, it looks more like a trendy loft apartment with its communal table, poster art and zaps of neon.

AURA

Hoża 27

Aura’s Moroccan-style design is mysterious and engaging – promoting the heavy use of swivelly chrome stools and Persian rugs, the heavy hint of retro glam is balanced out by a crowd that strays into the head turning category. Making them a real one-off is an exhaustive collection of bourbons.

BACK ROOM

Koszykowa 49A

Opened at a time when Warsaw was going through its speakeasy phase, Back Room owes its continued success to more than just its jazzy, Prohibition era vibe. True, its decadent interior doesn’t half cast a spell with its plush fabrics, muted lighting and flickering fireplace, but it’s the drinks that have the final word.

CHARLIE

Mokotowska 39

Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic

NOLA: as in New Orleans, Louisiana. Jazz! Hedonism! Etcetera! Almost identical to its predecessor, Koko & Roy, the intimate interior has seen a few nips and tucks – vinyl records, cymbals and some black and white pics added to the walls. Dark and shadowy, its proved popular with the younger expat generation who gather here for drinks that include the Americanized version of Pimm’s and exotic creations with names like Absinth Frappe.

PALOMA INN

Poznańska 21

Inspired by The Jetsons, the moon landings and the atom, Paloma Inn is a groovy blast of lunar lines, pea green colors and furnishings and fittings that are retro-futuristic. The experience is compounded by easy listening muzak, 70s menu faves like fondue and mega fun cocktails like the Green Bubble (melon liquor, cognac, tarragon, lemon juice and fizzy water).

RASCAL BAR

Moliera 6

One of the year’s hottest openings, Rascal is reputedly Europe’s largest

bar specializing in natural wines. Looking stripped down to maximize the original accents, what was once reputedly a canteen for ballet dancers today features a mix and match of tables, plenty of exposed concrete and a tall entrance curtain through which to swish. Crowned with a veneered, marble-topped bar, it’s a beauty to behold – a point not lost on the Vogue staffers that have made this their domain.

REGINABAR

Koszykowa 1

Hip and happening, the concept at Reginabar is a wacky amalgam that mixes elements of New York’s Little Italy with China Town next door. The menu rocks, but find it augmented by a dynamic cocktail list that reflects the crazy things happening in Warsaw’s world of drinks: that means, a ‘Girls on Top’ menu featuring drinks such as Baby One More Time and Wannabe. Lap these up in an interior that joins the retro with the avant garde – for a more subtle style, though shorter hours, check their younger little sister in Mysia 3.

SAKEBAR BY NOBU

Wilcza 73

Filled with light during the day, come dusk the curtains sweep shut to close guests off from the outside world. Sensual fragrances waft around, complementing a luxury menu touting bottles of craft sake that peak at PLN 3,000. Fixed by immaculate staff, cocktails are also prominent and are inspired.

SUPERFLY

Zajęcza 1A

Bathed in the soft light of the 70s style vintage lamps scattered about, the tone is set out front by the wacky board signboard that likens switching to natural wine as “travelling from black and white to intense psychedelic”. As fun as this trip in time is, the wines are of the cutting edge and are ably supported by the cooking of co-owner Oleg.

VA BENE CICCHETTI

Waryńskiego 9C

Rich in golds and operatic reds, the stylish Venetian theme includes table legs painted in gondola stripes and a signature mural made from mirrored shards. Drinks are works of art. Tailored around Italian ingredients, these number six interpretations of negroni and a concise roll-call of Prosecco and Martini-based drinks. The speed with which they’re fixed belie the quality at play.

VHS BAR

Poznańska 7

An 80s-themed cocktail bar snuck inside a pocket-sized brick cellar lit with fun, garish neon and pics of the era’s defining legends. Supremely fun, order cocktails named after figures like Cyndi Lauper, Billy Idol and, of course, The Hoff. As for the toilet, well that’s so fantastic that it was deemed worthy of its own individual prize in our Best of Warsaw issue!

TIMELESS COCKTAILS

ZAREMBA CAFÉ

Nowogrodzka 15

Black and white photos referencing the history of this former gentleman’s atelier gaze from the walls onto an interior heaving with brass, terrazzo and blue velvet finishes. A café by day, come evening Zaremba moves into cocktail territory with craft ingredients resulting in drinks like the Hemingway (Maraschino, house-made clarified grapefruit juice, coconut sugar and Zaremba’s own rum blend).

Feeling Crafty!

Over 40 craft beer bars thrive in Warsaw, and you’ll find them all listed on the ontap.pl app – below are some of our faves, and you’ll find more in our Winter Warmer section…

glass walls, spirally staircase and pinball machines, find 15 taps keeping guests amused.

CZEŚĆ

Grzybowska 2

Compact and box-like, Cześć have transitioned to become one of the cornerstones of Warsaw’s craft scene. Flying in the face of fads and fashions, it’s a bar that feels honest and comfortable in its own skin. Looking pleasantly worn-in after nearly nineyears of service the rotation of beers is brilliantly balanced between new finds and traditional top-sellers from the canon of Artezan, Pinta and other A-class Polish breweries.

DRUGIE DNO

Nowogrodzka 4

Replicating the look of a disused power station, the Double D is a place of rugged brickwork, steel girders, vintage voltage meters and, get this, clanky toilets disguised as elevator shafts. Set over three floors, the 14 craft taps are largely committed to the wild tastes of modern Poland.

Pinta

Chmielna 7/9

Delayed by that never-ending lockdown (good riddance!), Pinta’s flagship Warsaw bar didn’t have the best start in life. That hasn’t stopped it from growing to become one of the standout bars the capital can offer: bearing the hallmarks of the previous tenant (Mikkeller), the minimal but primrose-colored Scandi-design keeps the attention on the beer which comes, mainly, from the namesake brewery. Considered the founding fathers of Poland’s craft adventure, the beers are brilliant and fairly priced.

CRAFT BEER MURANÓW

Andersa 23

Humble and unpretentious, CBM’s rising stock has been reflected by their growing reputation as one of the finest tap bars with a suburban postcode. Split over two levels, as basic as the aesthetic is (screechy chairs and some murals that reference the brewing process), it’s an atmosphere that feels warm and clattery and like a local pub should. Deserving credit for their consistency (a dodgy pint is totally unheard

of), look to CBM’s sixteen taps for renegade beers that push frontiers.

CUDA NA KIJU

Nowy Świat 6/12

Opened in 2013, Warsaw’s first legitimate tap bar looks just as edgy as ever slotted inside a glass prism hidden within the megastructure that once housed the Communist Party headquarters. In fact, with so many youthful bars now neighbouring it, some would say it’s never enjoyed greater popularity. Notable for its

JABEERWOCKY

Nowogrodzka 12

Good old Jabbers will never let you down. A Warsaw institution, the adventurous choice of beers gives nods to international pioneers, domestic talents as well as their own house beers. Pre-war floors and the welcome smell of spillage give it a great atmosphere that becomes a boisterous babble of international voices the later it gets.

KUFLE I KAPSLE

Nowogrodzka 25

One of Warsaw’s oldest craft bars excels when in terms of atmosphere. Respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage, the brick interiors are thick with noise, clamor and the reassuring smell of spillage. But whilst the window-side front part is the most popular, in winter make your way to the back to discover an intimate space sprinkled with vintage armchairs and wonky old lamps set at a natural tilt.

Vegan Scene

Reflecting Warsaw’s dynamic, modern spirit, the city is officially ranked by the HappyCow portal as the ninth most vegan friendly cities on the planet – we need a telephone book to list all the worthwhile restaurants, so instead make do with a slimmed down selection of Insider stars…

Dziki Królik

Rzeczypospolitej 2A

The four-table intimacy of this timber-encased room charms immediately, and is accented by a neon pink flamingo, fragranced candles from the London-based Pecksniff’s, and a discreet pile of books such as Emily Hanson’s Modern Rustic. Head chef Magdalena Kurowicka mixes familiar faves (Warsaw’s best tacos!) with more fine-handed concoctions that are veganized with love – for example, soy meat bourguignon or scallop-style Eryngii mushrooms in a white wine sauce abetted by chili, saffron, lime and three types of seaweed.

BOCA BOCA

Mikołaja Kopernika 25

Anchored by a geometric mural that declares ‘Guilty Pleasure’ in glowing pink letters, this pocket-sized locale exudes a sense of fun. Written up on the blackboard, the menu casts it net over the biggest comfort foods known to man, and these include empanada – small, tasty pleasures with a puff pastry shell holding the goodness together inside. And there’s the Not Dog, a vegan hot dog forged from marinated carrots,

onions and red cabbage.

LA VEGANA

Zgoda 4

The menu is a bamboozling work of Byzantine complexity, but think of that as a charming quirk – as it turns out, it contains treasures galore. Alive with fragrant, fresh flavors, the nem rolls, tofu bulgogi and yuba cha (fried tofu skin) all come recommended, as does the house kimchi: a pungent, tangy mass of spiced, fermented cabbage. The

pho completes your plunge into gentle happiness.

PEACHES GASTRO GIRLS

Mokotowska 58

Cooped up during lockdown, flat mates Monika Mazurek and Klaudia Górak began scouring the web for exotic recipes and veganizing what they found. Sharing their creations with friends, the positive feedback led them to open Peaches, a place with a cool, scuffed courtyard and radical orange interiors. Substituting meat with Portobellos, their tacos are as authentic as they come..

VEGAN RAMEN SHOP

Finlandzka 12

We’ve heard some describe Vegan Ramen Shop as serving “the best noodles in the world!” They’re definitely memorable, and the spicy miso ramen will for sure convert those suspicious of this claim. Eat them in a mega cool room divided up by stacks of ‘levitating shelves’ adorned with Japanese nick-nacks.

YATTA RAMEN BBQ

Nowolipki 15

Filled with cartoon-like illustrative art and generous slashes of neon, Yatta are the latest Japanese venture to try their hand in this area. Highly competent in their execution, the busy, youthful vibe reflects the mood, philosophy and quality of the food. Heaped with pickles, spring onions and squirts of chili mayo the Soboro fries are essential. Given their name, the ramen is of course the main reason to visit, but do also scope out their ribs and chicken skewers.

YOUMIKO VEGAN SUSHI

Hoża 62

Exceptional in every respect, Youmiko’s tasting menu is one of the undisputed highlights of what’s become known as the vegan square mile. “Our aim,” declares their manifesto, “is to mix traditional Japanese approaches with Polish creativity and surprise you with new textures and flavors.” Mission accomplished.

Coffee Scene

Warsaw’s coffee culture has exploded, a point reflected by its number of specialty cafes – of course there’s more, but here’s a handpicked selection of tried and tested faves…

Błysk

Słowackiego

22

Served over a veneered table rescued from the PRL period, Błysk’s tight confines generate a natural air of familiarity that’s as addictive as the coffee. Often standing room only, the buzz and hubbub owes itself not just to the delicious espresso shots, but also the homemade cookies and dog-loving owners that will spoil your pet. Even the ceramics (AOOMI should you ask) are absolutely gorge. Being here, it’s the equivalent of discovering a secret chakra point.

CZYTELNIA 3.0

Kasprowicza 52

Third time lucky? Roaming around Bielany these past few years, Czytelnia’s third location in recent times will hopefully prove to be the last move they ever have to make. Striking in the austerity of its design, the look is softened by a book shelf of coffee table titles, and a coffee offer that has sought to break boundaries – among other things, head here for origami drip

sips or coffee from a 3Temp Hipster machine.

FILTRY DOBRA KAWA

Niemcewicza 3

Launched in 2007 by Konrad Konstantynowicz, Filtry was the original specialty coffee café, a groundbreaking operation that led by example. Enjoy your coffee in a highceilinged unit clad in chess board colors and scuffed PRL flooring – for the city’s coffee afficionados (nay,

the country’s!) this is a genuine place of pilgrimage.

COFFEEDESK

Tamka 2 / Wilcza 42 / Próżna 7 Ok, so there’s three locations, but being a chain should not count against Coffeedesk. Each touting their own individual style, it’s Próżna that’s become our fave, largely down to the cobbled pre-war street it finds itself perched on. All three, however, excel when it comes to delivering consistent quality. Theirs is a benchmark that many others pursue.

COPHI

Hoża 58/60

Owner Uri Wollner is one of the great coffee influencers of Poland, and his seasonally changing menu includes such winners as Aperol espresso in summer and spiced pumpkin latte in the autumn and winter. This passion project is best appreciated if you can snag one of the few armchairs in this tiny locale.

DOBRA MATERIA

Nowolipki 13

Sleek low-lying black chairs hold the line with the bottom of the window pane encouraging gazing and make for an easy lounging experience. Co-owners Marta and Andrzej have demonstrated a real devotion to detail, with their vegan cakes, non-alc. mulled wines, and cupping sessions all conspiring to make this café one of the secret treasures of Muranów.

FAT WHITE

Andersa 6

Attached to one of the hippest and most Instagram-able barber shops in town, highlights of the adjoining cafe include rocking coffee, the nicest staff you could ever imagine and an almost demented collection of toy figurines (from Simpson models and Marvel heroes to a bad ass Al Pacino in full Scarface mode!). Tiny in its footprint, what it lacks in

size it makes up for in heart.

FORUM

Elektoralna 11

Forum is the café that has it all: a fashionably frayed interior, friendly dogs nuzzling around (call him Apollo), and a devoted client base that expects nothing but the best – and at Forum, that’s exactly what they get. Proudly marketing themselves as “the home of the Polish Aeropress and Polish Brewers’ Cup Champions”, the individual accolades that have been amassed by the owners and baristas say everything there is to know.

HAŁAS VINYL + COFFEE

Elsterska 10

Half-submerged below street level, this little café is home to a lovingly curated smattering of albums displayed in the first room – Sonic Youth, John Coltrane, Gorillaz, Bjork, Nirvana, etc. Once you’ve made your purchase, retreat to the retro-fitted, lounge-like space in the back to sip what’s known as the best specialty coffee in the whole of Saska Kępa.

PO DRODZE

Bagatela 11

Set inside a renewed tenement that leans over Bagatela, this café is decorated in a soothingly Scandi-style: concrete colors, raw timber, and lighting fixtures that are as captivating as the punters. Slouching on sofas or gathered around the oval central table, a rich smorgasbord of Warsaw characters await, usually wearing headphones and tapping into laptops. In this air of calm, work becomes a pleasure.

RELAKS

Puławska 48

Any Coffee Hall of Fame just wouldn’t feel complete without the inclusion of this evergreen institution. Jacketed in chipboard panels, vintage armchairs and retro film and theater posters from

the heyday of the so-called ‘Polish school of poster’, the buzz about Relaks has lasted so long as to become ingrained in Mokotów’s DNA. Being here, you understand why.

SERSO

Szanajcy 16

For reasons that mystify, Warsaw has never really managed to get the bagel right – at least, not until the 2020 opening of Serso. The bad news? To find this little heaven, you need to head from the beaten track. Located in an ascetic space inside a Socialist Realist block, the bagel combos veer from classic to creative and twin well with their coffee. Early closing hours attest to the popularity they have gained.

TONKA

Karmelicka 16

Looking onto the glorious glass cube that is the POLIN museum, Tonka’s crystal white minimalism rules with the monotone palette given punch by subtle zaps of greenery. The coffee – sourced from the likes of HAYB – is excellent, but tastes even better when tested alongside Tonka’s ever-changing

line-up of seasonal cakes and pastries. Actually, these are our fave desserts in town!

PARĘOSÓB

Tarczyńska 12

Fact: a fantastic café needs a fantastic dog, and at Paręosób that’s just what you’ll find. The adorable black Labrador aside, venture to this off-center locale to soak up its neighborly vibes over consistently great coffee. Once home to tailor’s store, the upended mannequin legs are, presumably, a nod to the heritage of the address.

STOR

Tamka 33 / Bracka 18

For many there is no better café anywhere in Poland than Stor’s original on Tamka. And it’s true, when the sunlight slopes in through the window, there are few finer feelings than idling away in this plant festooned refuge. Although famed for their glorious coffee and detail-driven approach to quality, recognition should also be handed to their devotion to local causes, community actions and zero waste philosophy. You don’t just feel good being here, you’re doing good as well.

LOCAL FAVORITE

KAWIARNIA KAWAŁEK ul. Łucka 18

This neighborhood café offers a human touch in an area filling itself with gleaming glass blocks and gated compounds. Acting as a magnetic force, the homemade nitro machine (“I just like making things,” says the owner), is a thing of legend in summer whilst its cozy dimensions are ripe for winter.

Best Of… Poland

To find the essence of Poland, visit any one of these restaurants – ranging from elegant to shabby, discover these for a 360 view of Polish cuisine…

Bez Gwiazdek

Wiślana 8

Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the mundane Polski feast. For many, it’s the best restaurant in the city!

ANONS DO DZIELNI

Madalińskiego 7

This charming brick-lined recess has a magical intimacy primed to cheer you up in the miserable months, and a menu that’s the epitome of rustic purity. The cooking here sings of care and freshness, and it becomes a pleasure to pick your way through a seasonal menu of homespun tastes. The beef cheeks are exceptional, but we’ve also taken great joy in balls of black pudding with panko and apple sauce – this is the gastro equivalent of a hug between friends.

THE FARM

Mokotowska 8

Preaching a message of farm-tofork, this ambitious eatery takes its produce seriously – to the extent they have their own farm in the lake district to the north. Adjusted with the seasons, the menu on our visited included a roe deer stewed in Ukiel beer and served in a pan under a light puff pastry. Using chunky woods, copper light fittings and black and white floor tiles, the interior finishing leaves no doubt you’re somewhere upmarket.

PATELNIA PATERA

Wilcza 29A

Warm and homely with its woodsy finishes and empty pans hanging

from the walls, Patelnia Patera deserve credit for creating the most incredible schabowy we’ve yet to taste: this flattened portion of pork is monstrous in size and marinated overnight in buttermilk ensuring that the meat stays moist and tender when fried. Coated in challah breadcrumbs mixed with dried podgrzybki, the flavors are electrifying.

POLANA SMAKÓW

E. Plater 14

Compact and woodsy, Polana Smaków has lost none of its copious charm since trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw. Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, but his skills go far beyond that alone. Offering a unique take on Polish classics, his food is seasonal and sophisticated yet reassuringly simple.

SYTY CHMIEL

Marszałkowska 10/16

Some know Syty Chmiel as a craft multitap, but the truth is it’s also so much more. Better-known as Pan Tasak, co-owner Wit Szychowski has devised a menu that champions Poland’s rural greatness, with star cameos including blood sausage pancakes with caramelized apples. Hearty yet surprisingly sophisticated in its presentation and tastes, this is the kind of food befitting of the sound of clinking glasses.

ŹRÓDŁO

Targowa 81

Hardwood floors, exposed pipes and a flurry of plants equip an open area decorated with blasts of contemporary art, recycled furnishings and extravagant light installations. Menuwise, the food lights the soul. But more than just celebrating the power of local produce, there’s a refinement at play that speaks of a kitchen team that aims for the exquisite. For us, the pierogi with mushroom stock and smoked cottage cheese remain a favorite memory.

Best Of… Europe

Broad as Europe is, we’ve cherry-picked some of our favorite specific tastes to be relished in Warsaw…

Le Braci

Górnośląska 24

You enter to be greeted by an installation featuring a tower of assorted ceramic waste before turning into a long, narrow room decorated in soothing forest shades. Evoking images of starry nights, the lighting casts a pleasing glow on a dining area whose statement piece is a beautifully backlit bar. You’ll love the interior, but the food even more. Last year, that meant small starter plates that introduced nibbly bits of modern Italy followed by a creamy, thick porcini risotto with chestnuts and a beef fillet with raisins, pine nuts and shallots.

BIBENDA

Nowogrodzka 10

Preserving the prewar heritage of the building, the warm interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a special night out with friends – with no reservations taken, queues can snake outside the door. Working both as a bar and restaurant, the now meat-free menu is creative and deals only with the best small-scale suppliers: recently,

we’ve enjoyed roasted pumpkin with sheep’s milk feta, goat yogurt, and tomato fenugreek sauce.

BUTCHERY & WINE

Żurawia 22

When Butchery opened in 2011 it completely transformed the way Poland viewed its steak. The first ‘new wave’ meat joint in the country, it’s launch lit the fuse for a

steak revolution. Now an institution in its own right, this cosmopolitan spot remains one of the most sought out bookings in the capital.

KLONN

Jazdów 1B

Named after the illuminated maple tree outside, the parkland setting proves a brilliant backdrop for this dark and arty restaurant. Chef Michał Gniadek has lived up to his early potential to build a small menu that is international in scope but (mainly) local in its components. The flavors are exceptional and are a fantasy of skill.

LA LUCE

Poznańska 37

Touting a high end interior of raw brick, white tablecloths, heirloom pieces and vintage pictures of Italian entertainers, La Luce unfurls in a series of chambers that soothe the soul; this look is in character with a menu that presents sophisticated Italian dishes, own-made black pasta, premium seafood, house focaccia and an outstanding Black Angus striploin. The sophisticated negronis crown this pleasure well.

MIĘSNY

Walecznych 64

To some, it’s the best butcher for miles. To others, one of the greatest informal restaurants that Warsaw’s ever had. The truth is, Mięsny is actually both: where the latter is concerned, their steaks have no peer. For the budget-minded, the daily-changing lunch deal often hits perfect marks.

POLLYPIZZA NEOPOLITAN

Puławska 24

Spliced with a glitzy leopard-shaped pizza cutter, the pies at Polly have attained quite a following ever since this place burst onto the scene. Featuring CBD oil, the Legalize Marinara is indicative of their slightly wacky approach – as too is a design that includes disco balls, cord banquettes, neons and other retro-cool touches.

Best Of The… Exotic

For tastes that go beyond the norm, look to the following to brighten your day.

The happening, cosmopolitan vibe is reflected by a sublime cocktail offers that mixes South American and Japanese influences.

DELHI 6

Jana Pawła 41A

Tight, narrow and sparingly decorated with pictures of urban Indian life, the non-standard menu includes curry rolls wrapped in delicious parathas, crispy fried puffs and delicious tawas. Easily our favorite budget-end discovery of 2022, the atmosphere is enhanced by the Bollywood beats and high headcount of Indian food couriers – but they’re not here to collect food for delivery, they’re here on their breaktime to eat it themselves. If that doesn’t reveal the kind of place this is, then nothing will.

INDIA GATE

Al. Jerozolimskie 87

Ahaan

Unii Lubelskiej 1

Relocated to the historic tollbooth on Pl. Unii Lubelskiej, Ahaan serve mostly authentic street food from northern Thailand – that mean more herbs (ginger and lemongrass) and more earthy flavors. That the owners have also sourced holy basil, a much sought-after ingredient, speaks much for their passion. Breathing new life into one of Warsaw’s most iconic roundabouts, Ahaan will wok your world!

BLUE CACTUS

Zajęcza 2B (Eletrownia Powiśle) & Fabryka Norblin

Shut after a 20-year run in 2017, for many the closure of the Cactus felt like the end of an era. But they say legends never die, and so it’s proved with the return of this institution.

Taking shape inside a corner unit of Elektrownia, the new look venture touts glass walls, a tiled bar and lively open kitchen. Though looking contemporary in its styling, nods to the past are plentiful and include such elements as the original chairs. But if it vibes well, it eats even better – the tacos and burritos are already

vying for the title of Warsaw’s best, and their cause is helped by some banging salsas.

CEVICHE BAR

Twarda 4

With Argentine chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche is naturally the default order, and here its served in around five different forms. However, the main menu has also been extended to include such hits as beef tenderloin and grilled dorado.

Deviating from the more standard Indian menus (if you’ve seen one you’ve seen ’em all), order here for self-proclaimed “immunity boosting” dishes such as prawn garlic curry; lamb and spinach deewani; or chicken in a rich mango sauce. Specializing in delicious southern Indian dishes, find also a number of non-standard curries and starters including fluffy lentil pancakes and dosa stuffed with cheese.

JOEL SHARING CONCEPT

Koszykowa 1

Joel Sharing Concept seeks to channel the atmosphere and tastes typically found in the food markets and bazaars of contemporary Tel Aviv. As such, find yourself ordering from a small galaxy of bites that range from pittas stuffed with beef and lamb kofta to mezze dishes such as baked beetroot served with stewed tomatoes, cranberries and cumin.

MOD

Oleandrów 8

Devised by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French

background, glories include ramen noodles in a steamy yuzu broth and Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find a seriously cool vibe inside an interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with the kind of people that you’d mistake for rising fashion photographers.

MR. GREEK SOUVLAKI

Londyńska 16

Festooned with potted shrubs, the outdoor wooden deck is one of Saska’s finest outdoor check-ins. If that’s packed – and it often is – head inside where an atmosphere of gentle chaos reigns in the noisy open kitchen. Eschewing warmth and authenticity, the atmosphere fits the Greek food well. Feasting down on skewers of meat and pillowy pittas you start to feel like part of the owner’s extended family.

LA SIRENA

Piękna 54

Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the small but hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh. But if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a more finessed approach to Mexican cuisine, the flavors and ingredients here speak of a kitchen keen to show a more nuanced side to this magical culture. And we just love the cocktails as well.

PAŃSKA 85

Pańska 85

Despite the over-the-top luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served

table-side, is the highlight.

SENOR LUCAS

Hoża 41 (enter from Poznańska 16) Submerged down one of those cramped, little walk-down units on Poznańska, its tiny proportions (one table and a counter to lean on) and basic aesthetics (a blackboard and some crates) belie a standard that sits there with the best – actually, it’s become our favorite Mex in town! Based around handmade tortillas, find a small menu of burritos and rolled quesadillas stuffed with marinaded meats and ringing with peppy salsas and big flavor contrasts.

SHUK

Grójecka 127

For uncompromisingly authentic Middle Eastern tastes with a vegan spin then Ochota holds a real treasure to discover. Specializing in mezze plates, pide breads and bowls of shakshuka, Shuk realigns your mojo in a way few places can. Something of a veteran, their consistency and longevity is to be admired.

SPICE & YOU

Jana Pawła II 65

Majoring in the tastes of South Vietnam, Spice & You makes up for its geographical shortcomings (location: a dreary, commie housing block in Muranów), with a welcoming interior composed of colorful silk lanterns. Accruing a steady stream of repeat customers, the faithful return for the bún bò, an aromatic broth with boiled beef, spring onions, coriander, rice noodles and fresh herbs and veg.

UKI UKI

Krucza 23/31

How much do locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out udon noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming.

Fine Dining & Author’s Cuisine

When second best just won’t do, hit up these big guns for a meal to remember…

to watch and not just due to a stunning design: think tan, beige and white colors embellished with moon-shaped mirrors, gleaming lights and statement art. Priced between PLN 22 and 41, diners are encouraged to fill up on four to five a’la carte courses that appear like miniaturized works of art – think of each course as a micro bomb of sophisticated goodness. The veal was our highlight when we visited in May, just shading the icy strawberry-themed dessert.

MUZEALNA

Jerozolimskie 3

Design figures highly. Minimalistic at first sight, this sun-kissed chamber in the nether regions of the National Museum is sprinkled generously with works attributed to some of Poland’s top design pioneers. On the food front, Przemysław Suska, a rising star with the world at his feet, has modernized Polish classics whilst giving international dishes a Polonized spin: step forward the beetroot wellington. What lies in store this December is guesswork, but you can bet it will hit the spot.

NOLITA

Wilcza 46

Ale Wino

Mokotowska 48

Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, the menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes and is admired for some of the most interesting cooking in the city – think elegant with a localized twist. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim. All of a sudden, you don’t mind so much that the shaded courtyard terrace is closed for the season.

DYLETANCI

Rozbrat 44A

The epitome of the neo-bistro style, find an attractive space that’s been seamlessly designed to feature a wine store, kitchen and dining room(s) that somehow feel organically joined. The atmosphere is lifted by faultless cooking that combines a little bit of Polish with a little bit

of eclectic: it’s a combination that works and often magnificently well.

HUB.PRAGA

Jagiellońska 22

Heading the kitchen is Witek Iwański, a chef whose past accolades include our very own ‘Top Talent’ title in our Best of Warsaw issue last month. And wow, this newbie is also one

Winning our award last year for ‘Outstanding Achievement’, chef Jacek Grochowina’s enclave of class looks dashing with its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, but it’s the food that has made it the place Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Treasuring detail and finesse, our October visit peaked with a razor thin cuts of venison loin served in the style of a mille-feuille, as well as a star turn by a grilled octopus coated with wasabi mayo and served with a surprising, adventurous hit of chili with the accompanying creamy potato.

NUTA

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14

Extraordinary in every respect, Nuta is a place where the impossible happens – no surprise given that

Andrea Camastra is cooking. Rated among Le Liste’s Top 100 chefs in the world, his cooking is a world class experience that involves dizzying takes on Polish classics as well as a couple of favorites from his previous restaurant, the Michelin starred Senses. Highlights are too numerous to mention, suffice to say this is the best restaurant in Warsaw – and most likely Poland. Enjoy it in an interior that feels sophisticated but never ceremonial. Bookings mandatory.

RESTAURACJA WARSZAWSKA

Powstańców Warszawy 9

(Hotel Warszawa)

Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue. Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go to a golden schnitzel the size of a tricycle wheel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant essence of paprika. It’s exceptional.

ROZBRAT 20

Rozbrat 20

This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite write-ups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking.

SIGNATURE

Poznańska 15

Flirting with fine dining – yet at prices a notch below – the menu is a succession of highs that are a tribute to the sophisticated palate of chef Wojciech Kilian. Adding to the sense of being somewhere special is

a setting inside the former inter-war Soviet Embassy. Adorned with original, auction-bought photos of Marilyn, pretty pink colors and luxury fittings, Signature washes over you in waves of bliss.

SZÓSTKA

Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa)

Found on the sixth floor of a 1930s tower that was, for a time, ranked Europe’s second tallest building, Szóstka’s fan base is all thanks to Dariusz Barański, a highly skilled chef fond of presenting such dishes as crab meat toast with lime and mango.

TUNA

Elektryczna 2

Resembling the scales of a fish, Tuna’s core decorative element are 18,000 tuna cans that sheathe the walls. Smartly appointed in dark metallic colors, punches of wood add warmth to the aesthetic. Specializing in ‘doing the unexpected’ with fish, chef and co-owner Martin Gimenez Castro has created an exhilarating menu that includes salmon jerky, tuna sausages, an elaborately reconstructed dorada tail and the best-selling chili con tuna. Tuna succeeds in reimagining everything you thought you knew about eating fish..

A-CLASS DINING Epoka

Ossolińskich 3

Preserved 19th century cornices and baroque-style drapes lend an enveloping sense of luxury to this A-Class space. Epoka’s menu is based on Polish cookbooks from different epochs (hence the name, dummy!), with the dishes reconstructed in a way that’s innovative, unexpected and a roller coaster of thrills. At the start of the year, this was one of two resaurants (the other being Nolita) ranked by La Liste in the world’s Top 100 Restaurants.

Ministerstwo Kultury i Dziedzictwa Narodowego

FROM ANOTHER GALAXY

Open until April 29th, the Galaxy Playground does more than simply showcase products from Samsung’s portfolio. Free to visit, it’s already earned much publicity since its February launch, attracting as it has an army of influencers and social media personalities. Why? Because of the endless opportunities it presents to send your likes into orbit. Featuring an ‘endless tunnel’ among other flashy photo opps, discover this experimental pop-up inside an abandoned tenement on a shabby slice of Chmielna. High on glitz, neon and disorienting mirrors, this immersive millennial playpen will also be hosting meet & greets with such stars as Sara James (the winner of The Voice Kids) and workshops with cult photographers and content creators such as Hashtagalek and Krzysztof Gonciarz.

Galaxy Playground Chmielna 18, samsung.com

UNCOVERING

A HIDDEN GEM

A Fragrant Journey through a Timeless Perfume

JAN BARBA, a luxury perfume company, creates fragrances that are masterpieces of scent and art. Their products result from meticulous attention to detail,

with each fragrance crafted in small batches in their laboratory. Dedicated to using only the finest natural ingredients, including essential oils and absolutes, these are then stabilized with rosemary extract. JAN BARBA’s

first fragrance, Superiore, pays homage to the classic colognes of the past. Inspired by a 1708 description of the creator of the original cologne, Johann Maria Farina, Superiore is a fresh and invigorating scent that is designed to evoke the feeling of a spring morning in Italy. The fragrance is a modern interpretation of the classic cologne, made with a higher concentration of real perfume and crafted exclusively from natural raw materials.

Their newest scent, Gloria, which catches the attention. Inspired, they say, “by the aromatic waters from the times of the Crusades”, this blooming, luminous fragrance features evocative Middle Eastern spices and sweet resinous tincture. With a floral heart and a spicy top note, Gloria is a high and sublime scent that will leave a lasting impression.Insider Pick

Aiyoku was inspired by Alex Kerr's book, Japan Lost, and created to embody the romantic and idealistic scent of Japan. Boasting notes of damp forest, traditional cedar wood, and wetland, the fragrance combines fresh and mature scents of wood and moss reminiscent of a traditional wooden house nestled among tall grasses in a valley.

JAN BARBA ul. Kopernika 25 (City Center), janbarba.com

Shop Embedded in a Pre-War Warsaw Building

THE NEW AGE

Ceramics and more inside a unique space that revives the soul…

Named after the lost Incan city, Paititi market themselves as “a holistic store for the body and soul”, a place whose items, they say, “will raise your bio-vibrations and bring peace and harmony to your living space”. You’d be forgiven for arching your eyebrows, but as it transpires this isn’t New Age claptrap, but actually a fair description of exactly what they do. Starting life as a ceramics store, visit to invest in dishes and vases whose raw, simple form is complemented by the natural color palette. But beyond these, look also for woody scents from Palo Santo, ceremonial Ecuadorean cocoa with anti-depressant qualities, aromatherapy oils and incense sticks. Healing the mind and body, these are products that will serve to realign your mojo on a bleak Warsaw day.

Paititi

Długa 44/50, paititistore.com

LOVE AND DUTY. 1863 JANUARY UPRISING

The Royal Castle in Warsaw casts an in-depth look at the January Uprising...

The January Uprising was the largest and longest-lasting independence insurrection during the period of partitions. This uprising against the Russian invaders united Poles, Lithuanians, Belarussians, and Ukrainians, forever left its mark and became an inspiration for the next generations of heroes

PHOTOS: ZAMEK KRÓLEWSKI W WARSZAWIE

fighting for freedom.

On the 160th anniversary of this momentous event, the temporary exhibition in the Royal Castle’s Tin-Roofed Palace seeks to foster a better understanding of both its historical significance and its personal, human dimension.

A total of more than 200,000 people fought in the ranks of the January insurgents at

Love and Duty. 1863 January Uprising (Ongoing until April 16th) The Tin-Roofed Palace (pl. Zamkowy 2), www.zamek-krolewski.pl

various stages of the struggle, a fraction of those who felt the burden of Russian repression. Ultimately, this was to undoubtedly become one of the most tragic pages in the history of the national liberation struggles in Central and Eastern Europe.

The spiritual legacy of the January Uprising laid the foundations for the modern identity of several nations, strengthened

interstate solidarity, and redefined a sense of community and patriotic duty. It also became the founding myth of the two states that became independent in 1918 – the Second Polish Republic and the Republic of Lithuania.

The aim of the exhibition is not only to preserve knowledge of the Uprising, but also to stimulate historical imagination, making it possible to evoke the collective and individual emotions that accompanied the Uprising. Objects found during archaeological work on Giedymin Hill in Vilnius are a particularly important part of the exhibition. In 2017, during work to save the sliding slopes of the mountain, human remains were accidentally discovered which, upon examination, turned out to belong to the January insurgents who were executed in 1864 on Lukiski Square.

The aim of the exhibition is not only to preserve knowledge of the Uprising, but also to stimulate historical imagination

EXHIBITION: HERMAN HAN’S ALLEGORIES

A one-of-a-kind exhibition, the Royal Castle examines the works of one of Gdańsk's most celebrated painters... further creative path.

For the first time ever, museumgoers in Warsaw may admire works by one of the most famous Gdańsk painters of the early modern era as part of an individual exhibition. The Royal Castle in Warsaw exhibits Herman Han’s early paintings and drawings, unusual both in their form and their content when compared with the artist’s

Active in Gdańsk in the early 17th century, Herman Han (1580–1628) is first and foremost known as the author of the Coronation of the Blessed Virgin Mary, a masterpiece found adorning the altar of the Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Pelplin. No less impressive is Han’s Coronation

of the Madonna which can be admired on the left-side altar at the Oliwa Archcathedral. Majestic and masterful, these sacral representations in the spirit of Counter-Reformation, however, are not the only pieces that came from under the brush of the Gdańsk master, who in addition enjoyed the title of court painter.

The items put on display

PHOTOS: THE ROYAL CASTLE IN WARSAW

at the Royal Castle in Warsaw also exhibit the painter’s lesser-known artistic accomplishments. Secular, allegorical paintings and drawings as well as portraits, coming both from Polish collections and from collections from abroad, highlight Herman Han’s artistic and intellectual versatility, at the same time significantly adding to the image of the era

he himself came to live and create in.

The presented pieces include new acquisitions from the Teresa Sahakian Foundation: Allegory of the world order, Allegory of wealth and Allegory of humility. Detail-led and sophisticated in terms of their artistic skill, the paintings became a medium for allegories praising civil virtues, teaching

For the first time ever, museumgoers in Warsaw may admire works by one of the most famous Gdańsk painters... that passion, if not controlled, would lead to disappointment. Only humility, they demonstrated, could prevent the eternal cycle of pride and war.

Another significant theme of the exhibition is the historic City of Gdańsk itself – at the time, the largest metropolis in Central and Eastern Europe and a cosmopolitan center for trade, including in works of art.

The Vicissitudes of Things. The Allegories of Herman Han (Ongoing till April 23rd) The Royal Castle in Warsaw (pl. Zamkowy 4), www.zamek-krolewski.pl

WHAT’S ON, WHEN

March 4th to March 5th

Magic Shock

EXPO XXI (Prądzyńskiego 12/14)

Marketing itself as “a magical city”, Magic Shock promises an immersive, multi-dimensional show “that will awaken the imagination”. Workshops and “a magic fair zone” will accompany the event.

March 11th to March 12th

Plant Market

PGE Naradowy (National Stadium)

Starting at PLN 5, head to the National Stadium to stock up on plants for home – directly sourced, the staggering collection will be complemented by stalls selling pots, fertilizers, literature and everything else you need to let your buy thrive.

Ongoing until March 12th

Lempicka & Art Deco

Villa la Fleur (Szpitalna 14, KonstancinJeziorna)

Extended to run until March, the Lempicka exhibition presents 76 works by this legend of Art Deco, including oil paintings, drawings and prints. Memorabilia on display includes clothing, jewelry, photographs, notes and correspondence.

March 18th to March 19th

Slow Market

PGE Naradowy (National Stadium)

Now in its eighth year, the legendary Slow Market will bring together over 200 vendors showcasing artisanal Polish products ranging from cosmetics and accessories to jewelry and fashion. For more: jestemslow.pl

learning

preschools

AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics. Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact admissions@ aswarsaw.org

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW

A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW PRESCHOOL

Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

CASA DEI BAMBINI & TODDLER SCHOOL

(multiple locations)

Casa dei Bambini and Toddler School have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 12 months to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19, ul. Tatrzańska 5a (Mokotów), ul. Szkolna 16, (Izabelin), tel. 692 099 134, wmf.edu.pl

Infant & Toddler

Tatrzańska 5a

Badowska 19

Casa dei Bambini

Badowska 19

Szkolna 16, Hornówek

Szwoleżerów 4

THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW – EARLY YEARS CENTRE

Our Early Years Foundation Stage provides a play-based learning curriculum full of curiosity, wonder and discovery – the perfect springboard into Primary education. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84, tel. 22 646 77 77, thebritishschool.pl

THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Established in 1994, The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English,

Tatrzańska 5a

Pytlasińskiego 13a

warsaw montessori family

Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637), ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl

THE ENGLISH PLAYHOUSE

The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email:

jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

MAPLE TREE MONTESSORI

Maple Tree

Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

MONTESSORI STEPPING STONES

An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW INTERNATIONAL ELEMENTARY AND MIDDLE SCHOOL

Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught

in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@ canadian-school.pl or secretary. olimpijska@canadian-school.pl

THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Established in 1994, The Trilingual

School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637), ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl

MONNET INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaure-

ate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

JOY PRIMARY SCHOOL

Treating pupils with mutual respect but not at the expense of being demanding, the methods used are hard on the problem but soft on the person. Taking into account what students think, feel, learn and want for themselves and their world, Joy Primary teaches important life skills as well as respect, care for others, problem solving and co-operation. Here, children are challenged to discover their abilities and competences, while encouraged to explore personal strength and autonomy. ul. Syta 131A, tel. 722 305 333, sekretariat@ joyprimaryschool.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI MIDDLE SCHOOL

Guided by trained specialists, students are responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet real life challenges. ul. Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826, wmf.edu.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI HIGH SCHOOL

GALERIA MOKOTÓW

Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl

KLIF HOUSE OF FASHION

Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

ZŁOTE TARASY

Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

antiques

WARSAW MONTESSORI SCHOOL

A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classroom provided. Located just steps from Łazienki Park the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420, wmf.edu.pl

Warsaw Montessori High School aims to teach students the values which Maria Montessori outlined in her educational philosophy such as: responsibility for one’s own development, care for others, honesty, empathy, and service. The school continues to meet the principles of Maria Montessori through implementing the IB Diploma Program principles and practices. Warsaw Montessori High School is an authorized IB World School for the Diploma Programme – code 061201. ul. Pytlasińskiego 13A, tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

shopping experiences

ARKADIA

Not many Polish malls do it better. Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl

KOLO

What looks like a soggy tent city transforms each Sunday morning into a hopelessly addictive flea market offering wartime militaria, religious icons, chinaware, furniture from unverified periods of history, and even the occasional suit of armor. ul. Obozowa 99

KWADRYGA

Antique books, faded photographs, yellowing maps and dog-eared magazines – the atmosphere is timeless. The PRL-era lifestyle magazines are an amazing insight into the past. ul. Wilcza 29

LAPIDARIUM

Cavalry swords, pre-war Judaica, Orthodox icons, books, scrolls, helmets, cameras, chess sets, jewelry… The opportunities for rummaging are endless. ul. Nowomiejska 15/17

PRIMA PORTA ANTIQUITIES

At the top end of the scale the German-run Prima Porta specialize in pieces from ancient Rome, Greece, Egypt, Mesopotamia and Asia. ul. Moktowska 71

THE MAGNIFICENT SEVEN!

Warsaw’s rich history and cultural significance has left it with no shortage of museums to visit. Offering a well-rounded view of the city’s past and present, these are the seven you

FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM

The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are captivating (his death mask, gifts from his muse, etc.), but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum

MUSEUM OF LIFE UNDER COMMUNISM

A deeply personal insight into the former system by allowing visitors to view what Communism meant to the everyday person. Here, rifle and rummage through a room mockedup to resemble a typical household apartment, watch propaganda films, peer inside a phone box, paw at vintage keep-fit gear or covet the ladies fashions of the time. ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl

MUSEUM OF WARSAW

Reprised as a maze-like treasure filled trove glimmering with curiosities, thousands of objects have been gathered here to detail the

story of Warsaw in a non-linear style that can at times feel overwhelming. Peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art all combine with a mass of trivia to leave visitors boggled with knowledge. The vertiginous views of the Rynek below are worth the admission alone. Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

NATIONAL MUSEUM

Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. That’s reason enough for many, but for others the museum’s ace card was revealed at the end of 2017 with the opening of the Gallery of Polish Design. Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw. art.pl

NEON MUSEUM

Playing a key role in the government’s attempts to fuse socialist ideology with consumerism, the campaign to ‘neon-ize’ Poland saw gloomy cities still bearing the scars of war boldly gleam once more under lights designed and produced by many of the leading

artisans of the time. ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

POLIN

Composed of eight galleries, this architectural marvel covers different stages of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. That it was named the European Museum of the Year in 2016 such much for its ambitions to focus on more than the Holocaust alone. ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

THE WARSAW RISING MUSEUM

If the throngs and sheer informational overload can often be daunting, it remains the most important museum in the capital, and quite arguably the country. Points of interest are rife and include a lifesize replica of a B-24 Liberator plane as well as a claustrophobic ‘sewage tunnel’ through which visitors squeeze to get an idea of the kind of conditions combatants once faced. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

just shouldn’t miss…

shopping exeriences

1 Designer Outlet Warszawa ul. Puławska 42E, designeroutletwarszawa.pl

2

Elektrownia Powiśle ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com

3

Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl

4

8 Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

9 Vitkac ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl

10

Westfield Arkadia

Al. Jana Pawła II 82, pl.westfield.com/arkadia

11

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

museums

1

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl.pl

2

6 Koneser Pl.

7 Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl

The Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

3

Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl

4

Fryderyk Chopin Museum ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum

5

Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

6

Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 2842, muzeumwarszawy.pl

7

POLIN ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

sport

1 Legia Stadium Łazienkowska 3, https://legia.com/

Galeria Północna ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl

5 Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

Konesera, koneser.eu

REMEMBERING AN ICON

Once the pride of Poland’s automotive industry, the Syrena 100 celebrates its 66th birthday in March…

First rolling off assembly lines on March 20th, 1957, the nimble car had made waves two years earlier at the Poznań Trade Fair. Inspiring rave reviews, such was its reception that its mass production was a logical step to take for a nation keen to rebuild and develop its shattered car industry. Originally manufactured in Warsaw’s FSO factory in Żerań, by the time production was halted in 1983, some 521,311 units had been built.

Designed by Karol Pionnier, this was to all intents and purposes the country’s first “homemade” car. Never exported, it was named after Warsaw’s official mascot, the Syrena (mermaid), and weighed in at just under a ton – several hundred kilos heavier than similar passenger cars being built in the West. Aimed at scientists, the intelligentsia and party elite, the two-door, one-lock car came with an eyewatering price tag that was set at over four times the average salary. Still, it gained a cult reputation, even featuring in the country’s first TV serial, Barbara i Jan. Later, new models were developed, and versions of the Syrena even took part in the Monte Carlo Rally with Marek Varisella and Marian Repeta finishing 99th in the 1960 event.

GREY WOLF

NOWY