Warsaw Insider May 2022 #309

The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

TASTES OF MAY

The gastro-pub everyone needs to know! p. 38

#309 INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

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MAY 2022 Features:

Also...

Head to Head: Wilcza v Hoża – p. 26 The Beautiful Game: football clubs of Warsaw – p. 12 PRL Time Travel: Saska Kępa – p. 22

72 Hrs Foodie guide to Warsaw – p. 16 The next big thing? Exploring ul. Lwowska – p. 40 Cinco De Mayo: Warsaw’s Mexican standoff – p. 46

Contents MAY 2022

Reviews: Grono_Mokotowska – p. 35 Garmaż od Ukrainek – p. 36 Syty Chmiel – p. 38 Spotlight: ul. Lwowska – p. 40 Ahaan Thai Street Food – p. 42 Eter Vegan Bakery – p. 43 Spice & You – p. 44 Mexican Restaurants – p. 46

DISCOVER

Zachetą Hideouts – p. 65

COVER PHOTO BY KEVIN DEMARIA, PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE BY ED WIGHT

Prince Józef Poniatowski Apartment – p. 68 Night of the Museums Cheatsheet – p. 70

HAS WARSAW NORMALIZED since the outbreak of war? Of course not, but to a degree one would say that the situation here – and prevailing mood – has stabilized since the panicked horror that marked Month No. 1. Though Russia’s ongoing savagery continues to cast a pall over Poland, the response has become clearer and more coherent. So too has the conviction that, ultimately, light will triumph over darkness. It goes without saying, we will remain unflinching in our support for those activities dedicated to helping Ukraine, therefore it’s no surprise to find references to the conflict spread around this issue. However, we have also sought to find a balance to our content, and in that regard this month we’re pleased to bring you our lowdown on Warsaw’s football sides as the season enters its business end, whilst also pitching two of our favorite streets in a head-tohead confrontation. Wilcza and Hoża, show us what you’ve got. Moreover, we’ve explored Saska Kępa to present its lesser-known face, and also used the opportunity to spring clean our listings – opting for a more curated approach, we’ve slimmed these down (of course, you’ll find more on our website) and used the space that’s been saved for more reviews and rundowns to aid your enjoyment of the city. And enjoy it we hope you will. Until next issue, adios! Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl

Subscription Editor-in-chief Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Art Director Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com

Content Editor Krystyna Spark kspark@valkea.com

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland. Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakłady Graficzne TAURUS Tel. (022) 783-6000

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In front

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

MURALS

Give Peace A Chance Stunning mural premiers in Targówek…

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In front • news

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2022

TopTop to bottom, to bottom, artart by by Rafał Rafał Bujnowski, Bujnowski, Martyna Martyna Czech, Czech, Martyna Martyna Pinkowska Pinkowska

ART

HAMMER TIME Titled Refugees Welcome, Desa Unicum will be organizing a special auction on May 15th to raise funds to alleviate the refugee crisis. Regarded as Poland’s biggest auction house, the firm has a track record of community work having previously raised over zł. 38 million over the course of ninety auctions held over the last 17-years. Hosted by the Museum of Modern Art, this particular auction will see works by luminaries such as Monika Sosnowska (starting price zł. 50,000), Zbigniew Rogalski (zł. 30,000) and Piotr Janas (zł. 20,000) go under the hammer alongside a dozen other contemporary Polish artists.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

cross Poland, the nation’s artistic community has continued to demonstrate its solidarity with the people of Ukraine through a series of actions both large and small. In the case of the former, a flurry of XL-sized murals have appeared over the country, but few have proved as striking as that found on ul. Radzimińska 140 in Warsaw’s Targówek district. Titled Panna Wolna, the work was designed by Andrzej Pągowski, one of Poland’s bestloved graphic artists. Depicting a dove and a woman’s profile painted in the blue and yellow colors of Ukraine, the 140 sq/m mural debuted at the tail end of March and has since gone viral on account of both its beauty and powerful message. Speaking to Dzień Dobry TVN, the artist explained his motivations behind the project: “When I saw the crowds of women crossing the border it made a real impression on me and I wanted to somehow leave my mark and help a little,” he said. “Having watched so many mothers flock across the border, I thought that the picture should be quite general.” Keen to highlight the role that women play in war, Pągowski says that Panna Wolna was the result: “In these male conflicts, it is the women that bear the greatest responsibility when it comes to keeping family life alive; my mural is a tribute to all of these women. I would like this mural to become a symbol of the fight for freedom, but I do not want it to become symbolic of Ukraine’s long struggle as I hope that this conflict will end as soon as possible.”

warsawinsider.pl

In front • news QUOTE OF THE MONTH

“This is not what democracy looks like”

An outraged Russian diplomat has his say after bailiffs sent by Warsaw’s City Hall seized a contested property once used by the Russian government. In the future, the Mayor is on record saying he would like to see the apartment complex turned over to rehouse Ukrainian refugees.

CITY

City Hall have announced the beginning of the tender process to find a general contractor for the construction of the TR Warszawa theater in Pl. Defilad. Set next to the Museum of Modern Art (currently under construction), the cultural space will cover 15,000 sq/m and include two theater halls, educational facilities, audio and video studios, rehearsal rooms, a restaurant and two bars. Designed by New York’s Thomas Phifer and Partners in partnership with the Polish studio APA Wojciechowski and Buro Happold, it has already been widely touted to become one of the most cutting-edge theater buildings in Europe. If all goes to plan (ha!), it’ll be ready for the public in 2026.

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2022

IMAGES THIS PAGE PRESS MATERIAL, OPPOSITE PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA

CONTRACTOR: WANTED!

TAKE A BUILDING

Where Eagles Dare Regarded as one of Warsaw’s most notable buildings, we take a look at Dom Pod Orłami…

aking five-years to build, Dom Pod Orłami (House Under The Eagles) was completed in 1917 to a design penned by Jan Fryderyk Heurich, an architect who would later be appointed the Minister of Art &

Culture. Already known for creating the city’s public library as well as what is currently the extravagant Konstancin residence of the Russian ambassador, Heurich’s project was built on the site of a mortuary and funeral chapel; in later years, it would not shake these morbid associations. Infamously, during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising the car park that stands in front was used as a makeshift graveyard for insurgents, whilst in 1964 it was the stage for one of the country’s most notorious bank heists. Taking place just a couple of days before Poland’s Christmas Eve celebrations, two robbers ambushed guards carrying money from the nearby CDT department store before they could deposit it inside the bank located within Pod Orłami. One guard was killed, another seriously wounded. Making off with zł. 1.3 million, the robbers were never caught and the daring stick-up has since gone down in legend. According to some, the perpetrators were thought to be high-ranking officers employed in the secret service. Such dramas aside, the building at Jasna 1 is equally known for its architectural merit, not least the eagles that cap its two front corners. Sculpted by Zygmunt Otto, these have become the structure’s signature. Rebuilt after sustaining heavy damage in WWII, Dom Pod Orłami returned to the news last year when a developer was fined zł. 500,000 for carrying out renovation work without the required permit. Nevertheless, its sweeping glory remains unquestioned. warsawinsider.pl

PKiN Cheat Sheet

Exploring PKiN

ay 2nd, 1952: ground is broken on what, to this day, remains Warsaw’s most recognizable building. Taking three-years to construct, the idea for the Palace of Culture & Science was first touted in 1949 by Stalin, but it wasn’t until two-years later that a six-hour meeting hosted in the capital’s Belweder Palace saw the Soviet leader’s offer formally accepted. Leading the architectural side was Lev Rudnyev, an architect whose previous form included Moscow’s Lomonosov University, one of ‘seven

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sisters’ that looked eerily similar. Heavily modeled on these, the Palace of Culture’s conceptual study was ready within six weeks with Rudnyev’s team drawing inspiration from a tour that took them to Zamość, Kraków, Sandomierz and Kazimerz Dolny. Not only would PKiN reference the Renaissance architecture of these towns, but its shape was also impacted by what the architects had seen. “They found that pointy, slender structures were a feature of Polish architecture,” writes historian Jerzy Majewski, “hence they gave the building a thinner form than Moscow’s palaces.”

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Breaking ground seventy-years ago this month, we bring you all you need to know (and a few things that you didn’t) about the Palace of Culture & Science…

Up Top…

Composed of 46-floors in all, the building originally stood at 230 meters and 68 centimeters in height, a size that grew to 237 meters in 1994 after an antenna base was added. At the time of its completion it was Europe’s second tallest building, and for decades it reigned as Poland’s tallest – a crown lost only last year to the Varso Tower. As a normal person, the highest you’ll be able to go is to the 30th floor where a viewing platform can be reached by lift in just 19-seconds. Reportedly, the overall height of the building was decided thanks to a hot air balloon flight. Relaying messages to the pilot by radio, Polish architects shouted, “that’s enough,” as the balloon rose up.

… And Down Under

The Palace extends two-floors below ground, and this tangle of subterranean passages are riddled with mysterious pipes and spigots and Bond-like chambers from which the workings of PKiN are actually controlled. Also containing elements such as original doors, bits of masonry, Soviet banners, buttons from the first elevator and workers’ tools, a tour of its underground is an eye-opening must.

In Facts & Figures

The numbers are mind-boggling. Home to 3,288 rooms, the Palace was built using 40 million bricks that were first produced in the Soviet Union before being ferried over. Featuring a total volume of 815,000 cubic meters, it was built by

4,000 Poles and an estimated 3,500 workers that came in from the East. Sixteen of these died, and today their remains rest in the city’s Orthodox Cemetery. Formally opened on July 21st, 1955, on December 17th of the same year it’s half-a-millionth visitor filed through the door. By 1958, it was reported that the palace had received 20 million guests, including 1,258,000 to the top floor. The first suicide, meanwhile, was recorded on October 14th, 1958.

An Animal Kingdom

Originally 60 cats were ‘employed’ to keep the building free of rodents, a number now reduced to eleven. Years ago, one managed to cut the building’s energy supply after chewing through a cable. Elsewhere, a 6th floor apiary exists, whilst the 15th floor is home to kestrels. The highest permanent resident, though, are the peregrine falcons that nest just under the building’s spire.

They Were Here!

Even before PKiN was completed, it was of popular interest for high-profile guests. Indira Gandhi and Kruschev both visited in 1955. Later, in 1971, Leonid Brezhnev spoke here to wild applause. Outside of politics, 1961 saw the Palace visited by the first man in space, Yuri Gagarin, whilst iconic performers included Ella Fitzgerald in 1965 and Marlene Dietrich the year before – her performance was disrupted when a cat strayed on stage. Sparking riots, it was the 1967 visit of the Rolling Stones that is most remembered, with

the band allegedly paid in vats of vodka. Unable to take these back to England, it’s said that for years the Palace’s workers flooded the black market with supplies stored in the basement.

The Cultural Side

This flourishes to the present. Home to two museums (including the recently reopened Museum of Technology), the Palace’s offer includes four theaters, one cinema as well as numerous bars. Most socially engaged of the lot are Bar Studio and Café Kulturalna, both of which have assumed a mythical status among their artsy regulars. Lesser-known, the palace also has a swimming pool complete with diving boards and a dramatic skylight all of which were fully renovated in 2016.

The Future

Seen by many as “a tyrannical phallus” that acted as a reminder of Moscow’s influence over Poland, the fall of communism – and its subsequent aftermath – sparked intense debate as to the structure’s future. While it survived these initial calls for its destruction, the discussion has refused to subside: even five-years ago, the Deputy Minister of Defense called for its demolition by the army’s sappers, whilst Radek Sikorski, the former Minister of Foreign Affairs, jokingly suggested selling the rights to flatten it to the producers of Bond. Russia’s invasion of Ukraine has again seen such solutions openly vaunted. warsawinsider.pl

Sports

The Final Countdown Background Though lacking the heritage and magic of England’s FA Cup, the Puchar Polski is in the process of redeeming itself thanks largely to the decision to hold its final showpiece in the National Stadium. Held at seemingly random stadiums for much of its history (for instance, the likes of Piotrków Trybunalski, Belchatów, Wronki, Kalisz and Lubin), it wasn’t until 2014 that the Polish FA opted to harness the National Stadium for this flagship game – immedi-

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ately, crowds soared. First played in 1926 when Wisła Kraków beat Sparta Lviv to lift the trophy, it wasn’t until 1950 that the competition was next held. This inertia has long carried over and even nowadays earlier rounds are often noted for their dismal audiences. But who can resist a big day out in Warsaw? Hosted elsewhere during Covid, for the first time since 2019 fans will again descend on the National Stadium on May 2nd to see who’ll raise the cup.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALEX WEBBER

To be played in Warsaw for the first time since 2019, football fans are marking the days till the teams run out to contest the 69th Polish Cup Final…

The Stadium If ever you wanted to know what half a billion euros could have bought you in 2012, then the answer rests here. Delivered in time for the Euro championships, Poland’s national stadium cost exactly that. Holding 58,000, its short-life span has seen this basket-shaped arena welcome some of the biggest musicians in the world (Madonna, Beyonce, McCartney, the Stones, etc.). Supremely adaptable, it’s also held wind-surfing competitions, ice skating, a Top Gear event and housed a covid hospital. It is for football it remains most famed for, however. Thirty-one times the national side has played here, including twice during the Euro 2012 championships. The Past… Today’s stadium stands on the site of the former Stadion Dziesieciolecia. Opened in 1955 to coincide with the tenth anniversary of the establishment of Communist Poland, Dziesieciolecia was a typical Eastern European bowl; built from tons of war rubble ferried over from the city’s left side, it gained notoriety when Ryszard Siwiec set himself ablaze to protest against the Soviet invasion of the Czechoslovakia in 1968 (today, a memorial stands outside one of the exits). Fifteen years later, Pope John Paul II held a mass here for 100,000 people, a keystone moment that some credit for truly unifying Poles in their campaign against Communism. With Communism slayed, for nearly twenty years after it functioned as Europe’s largest open air bazaar, a wild ruin filled with hawkers selling counterfeit clothing, smuggled cigarettes, pirate DVDs, toxic aftershaves and everything you’d ever need to start a minor civil war. From these old days, a Socialist Realist statue of three relay racers is the best preserved element.

“A magnificent sight to witness first-hand, it’s football theater at its most passionate best”

And The Present… This year’s final will be fought between Lech Poznań and holders Raków Częstochowa – two teams currently neck-and-neck in the race for the league title. Marketed as family-friendly affairs, latter day cup finals have seen none of the violent barbarism that once defined games in the 90s and 00s, but that has not been to the detriment of the atmosphere. More or less guaranteed to occur, anticipate the followers of both sides to launch tifo displays in each half. Involving flag drops and billowing pyro, these coordinated fan shows have assumed such an importance that internet polls are held to vote on the best. A magnificent sight to witness first-hand, it’s football theater at its most passionate best. warsawinsider.pl

Sports

The Beautiful Game

As the football season reaches its business end, we check out some of the clubs in and around Warsaw that all fans should know (but probably don’t!)…

Błonianka Błonie An easy side-trip from town on the commuter train, we include fourth tier Błonie for a superb stadium that is the epitome of lower league football: on one side, a spanking modern stand that wouldn’t be out of place in the higher levels, and facing opposite, the kind of classic away cage that memories are made of. True, where the west side of the city is concerned Błonie is a wildcard given the nearby existence of higher clubs such as Znicz Pruszków (where a lad called Lewandowski started his career) and Pogoń Grodzisk Mazowiecki, but for us this edges those in terms of a casual day out.

Kartofliska Attention all beer monsters! Warsaw-based groundhopping blog Kartofliska.pl turn out for occasional cup matches and one-off games. Usually attracting 300 or so pissheads, it’s a great day out featuring tubby players, wild challenges and good-natured revelry in the stands. Expect zero trouble but plenty of drinking (so says their motto: ‘football without alcohol is nothing’). In a nutshell: grassroots football at its best. Though not playing in any league, check their FB for any friendly matches that might be in the pipeline. Kosa Konstancin And now for something completely random! We include Kosa solely on account of a crazy ground that’s wedged so close to the road that you flip the toilet door open and find yourself on the pavement. Featuring a glorious pint-sized main stand

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALEX WEBBER

Hutnik Warszawa Hopeless romantics wept when, earlier in the season, Hutnik’s stadium revamp was completed: gone now the overgrown bowl in which they used to play, replaced instead by a smart two-sided ground decked out in the club’s orange and black colors. Home to a decent pizzeria/bar in which to enjoy a pre-match pint, Hutnik is another club with a small but loyal following that affiliates itself to

Legia as their primary team. As a random curiosity, note that next door lies an Italian war cemetery containing graves of soldiers killed during the world wars.

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2022

and a pile of portacabins stacked at one end, the best view in the house is behind the goal – sitting on a railway line. Bring beer, enjoy. Legia Warszawa There can be no doubt, this season has been catastrophic with the defending champions meekly surrendering their title whilst crashing out of Europe. Off-the-field, protests against the owner have also contributed to the air of pessimism. Nonetheless, taking in a match at Łazienkowska 3 is a must for most: not least to listen to the lusty, pre-match rendition of the club anthem, Sen o Warszawie. Matches against historic rivals such as Lech Poznań and Wisła Kraków get especially heated, with pyro and banner displays frequently adding to the hair razing atmosphere and it’s likely that their final game of the season, against Cracovia on May 21st, will also see some kind of show. Despite being Poland’s most successful club, tickets remain cheap compared to Western teams, though for the full modern day experience the hospitality tickets are hard to top and include buffet and bottomless drinks inside a slick lounge

populated with selfie-taking good-lookers. Okęcie Warszawa Playing in the equivalent of football’s sixth step, geeks will enjoy a trip to Okęcie not only to thrill at a rickety one-sided ground, but also the planes that dip from the clouds above. Though largely unremarkable as a club, it’s a neighborly local team where friends gather to swig beers, catch-up and watch football that’s at times clumsy but never short on passion. In the stands (or stand that should be), bigger games can draw out a vocal element. Currently in second, promotion isn’t impossible for this lot. Olimpia Warszawa Again, here’s a team whose fans pledge allegiance to Legia first and foremost. Pulling a healthy hardcore of vocal fans, games at Olimpia are played in an extraordinary ground with two curved ends (only one of which is in use). Based in deepest Wola, this faded stadium is a great one for groundhoppers to tick off, not least for a club house that’s something of a time warp:

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Sports

and complete with glamor girl cutouts outside the changing room!

“Slowly, gates are going up and negativity in the stands has been replaced by optimism”

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALEX WEBBER

Polonia Warszawa Champions at the start of the millennium, Polonia’s fall from grace has been spectacular with financial mismanagement sending this much-storied club into a tailspin over the last decade. This season, though, the good vibes are back thanks to a new French owner and promises of an overdue stadium revamp. Playing in the fourth tier, Polonia still have four or so home matches to go as they close in on promotion, and these include fixtures against Bron Radom on 21st May and a potential six-pointer for the title against Legionowo on June 11th. With just one promotion spot to play for, failure to go up will be perceived as an uncomfortable back-step for a club in the throes of recovery. Slowly, gates are going up and negativity in the stands has been replaced by optimism. For the occasional fan, visit to enjoy a beautiful antiquity of a stadium and a magical bar clad entirely with Polonia memorabilia. Despite enduring dark days, it’s while mingling with the regulars here that you

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recognize what a proud and historic outfit this is – and the sausages grilled outside are ace! Targówek 1953 Warszawa Reborn as Targówek 1953 after going bust in their previous guise as GKP, visits here rarely disappoint. Two things stand out: first, their group of fans who, despite their lowly league, stoically turn up to back their lads. Secondly, a ground of much bedraggled charm: due for an imminent refit, enjoy it while you can for unique selling points include an overgrown away pen and a chocolate box-sized stand built to accommodate a tree growing through it! Ząbkovia Ząbki Playing in the district league (the equivalent of the fifth tier), Ząbki are another team recovering after being relegated several flights after imploding financially around six-years back. Again, here’s another team with a Jekyll & Hyde stadium: one side, a super modern stand featuring a pleasant bar for beers, and on the other a mass of rust disrupted by the presence of a Colditz-style TV

tower. Attracting a small but passionate following, the standout game in May as they fight it out for promotion (at press time they were tied at the top of the table with two other teams) is their derby against Huragan Wołomin on the last weekend in May. Zły Playing at the Don Pedro Arena, seventh-tier Zły Warszawa are Poland’s first ‘democratic’ football team. Founded a few years back on tenets of social responsibility, their multi-ethnic team includes a chef, violinist, banker and psychotherapist. Crowds peak at 200 but the hardcore sure know how to make a din: find drums, flags and thumping tunes. Describing themselves as a ‘circus’, at times watching them feels like a street party with some football in the background! There is a serious side to them though; socially active, they were recognized as being Europe’s “best grassroots club” by UEFA in 2019. Sometimes perceived as being ‘lefty’ by other teams, their match against Olimpia on May 7th or 8th (date tbc) could be one of the more lively games they have.

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72 Your complete guide to foodie Warsaw...

Browary Warszawskie

FRIDAY

Afternoon Intro Those new to the capital should start with a bang. For a lunch that will get you off on the right footing, then Bibenda has long been one of Warsaw’s favorite venues – with queues for tables stretching out the door in the evening, pre-empt that entirely by visiting hours ahead for your first meal in town. Sourcing ingredients from the city’s most celebrated producers, their menu is an adventurous gambit that entwines itself around Polish and occasionally Middle Eastern and Mediterranean influences. Informal but on-trend, their angle is well-expressed through an engaging design and drink options that number craft beers and on-edge wines. Slightly more upmarket, but never straying into the realms of the prohibitively posh, Ale Wino is a darling of the food press and has over-the-years stubbornly maintained a golden reputation for its food and wine.

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Am’or

HOURS Post Prandial Pleasures What better way to familiarize yourself with the streets than by trolling around for decadent desserts? Sticking to the center, that should mean wacky NYC-style donuts at MOD, heavenly cream puffs at Kukułka, flamboyantly artistic eclairs from Am’or, traditional delights at Słodki Słony (as recommended by supermodel Anja Rubik!), or the homemade tarts of Miss Mellow – we’ve missed about thirty-five other favorites, but those are good to start with. Welcome To Warsaw For a dinner that will act as a benchmark for those to come, think of nothing but the best. For this, look no further than the Insider’s roll-call of previous Best of Warsaw winners. Of these, our admiration for Rozbrat 20 is unceasing and rooted strongly in this restaurant’s perfectly polished formula: exceptional and inventive dishes that remain understandable in spite of their complexities; a sublime wine list that’s not afraid to get playful; and an atmosphere that feels special but never intimidating.

Afters Get to know the new side of Warsaw at two of its newest hubs. Set a stone’s throw from each other, Norblin and Browary Warszawskie occupy former industrial plots and have given the immediate area (well, the city as a whole), a new swagger with their umpteen food and drink options. Penned in by glitzy skyscrapers, exploring these vast, impressive complexes leaves no doubt that Warsaw has now fully shed its grey image of old. Teeming with all kinds of modern day night creatures, its in this duo you’ll feel the energy of New Warsaw. Pushed to name a standout venue, above all visit the brewery in Browary.

Bibenda

WARSAW warsawinsider.pl

72 hours in Warsaw

Opening Salvo You might be staying there already, if not, then take a glimpse at how the other half live by taking breakfast at the Europejski Grill. Found inside Warsaw’s outpost of the Raffles Hotel, these are seriously swish surrounds in which to start the day with their uber-posh take on the traditional British breakfast. After Head to the historic Tsarist era market halls known as Hala Mirowska and Hala Gwardii. Once a boxing gym, the latter has since been turned into a food hub containing a farmers’ market and several street food units. Directly outside, Hala Mirowska presents a labyrinth of market stalls that’s as popular with undercover chefs as it is with queue-jumping pensioners wielding walking sticks like sabers. Both Gwardii and Mirowska have managed to harmoniously co-exist, feeding off each other to add a richness to the area’s spiritual fabric.

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Gwardii and Mirowska have managed to harmoniously co-exist, feeding off each other to add a richness to the area’s spiritual fabric

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE SHUTTERSTOCK, OPPOSITE PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA (2)

SATURDAY

Light Lunch At the Insider, we call it The Square Mile… and we recommend that you explore it. Loosely covering that south central area where Wilcza, Koszykowa, Piękna, Hoża and Wspólna streets all collide, you’ll discover what some have claimed to be the largest concentration of vegan venues in the world: there’s simply too many highlights to pick out, but if we’re forced then we’d recommend either the sushi tasting sets at Youmiko or the Italian vibes of Leonardo Verde. More leftfield in their tastes, Peaches Gastro Girls is also a standout but liable to be closed on Sat (check their FB before!). Eating in any of those, you’ll understand why Warsaw is rated by the Happy Cow portal as the sixth most vegan-friendly city in the world! Afternoon Cruising (& Boozing) Seeing you’re in the area, use the opportunity to scout out Warsaw’s first modern food hub: Hala Koszyki. Opened over five-years ago, it revolutionized the city’s food scene by gathering together a selection of hip food units and housing them inside a revived historic hall. Still worth a nose around, have a wander before committing the rest of the afternoon to sightseeing: for those that want to keep foodie-oriented, then this can be accomplished by visiting POLIN’s exhibition tracing the history of Jewish cuisine. Invariably, you’ll probably want to head to Old Town; softly-lit in hazy spring light, its cobbled alleys are a delight to explore but it’s restaurants maybe less so. Instead, use the area for pre-dinner drinks. Looking raggedy but warm, Same Krafty is one of the city’s best-loved craft beer venues, though for something more sophisticated make a beeline towards Lane’s Gin Bar in the Bristol Hotel. Plush and pinkish in its design, you will not find better cocktails anywhere in the city. A Dinner To Remember For your all-star dinner, only one name deserves your consideration: opened earlier in the year, Nuta is a surefire bet to collect a star during the next round of Michelin ratings, and it’s absolutely guaranteed that even more will stand to follow. Why? For that, Andrea Camastra should take a bow. Previously inducted into Le Liste’s rundown of the world’s Top 100 Chefs, this Italian virtuoso will take you on a blistering rollercoaster ride of exceptional tastes inspired by Poland. You won’t leave with much change, but this is a world class experience where the impossible happens.

Lane's Gin Bar

Nuta

After Hours Nuta’s tasting menu will take up most of your evening, so after stay close to re-engage with The Square Mile once more. It’s on these streets you’ll find superb cocktail dens such as Aura and Charlie, or more versatile do-it-all bars like Foton, Pacyfik, Beirut and Kraken. In these, you’ll find a diverse and international crowd taking their weekend to the max. Alternatively (literally!), Worek Kości further south offers unforgettable jazz nights inside a skull-decorated interior straight from the pages of Edgar Allen Poe. warsawinsider.pl

72 hours in Warsaw SUNDAY

Lunch At this point, you really need to be working out what it is you really want. Come Sunday afternoon, the atmosphere at the Elektrownia Food Hall is delicious to be part of, as is much of the street food on sale in this gloriously converted power plant. But you’re in Poland, so we say be Polish! In that regard, two recommendations spring immediately to mind: Muzelana in the bowels of the National Museum is a belting way to sample modern Polish cuisine (and wine) inside

Elektrownia Powiśle

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an artsy setting inspired by the museum’s Gallery of Polish Design, though for something truly traditional get thee to the district of Praga! At Pyzy Flaki Gorące, find little dumplings squeezed into glass jars in a basic interior frequented by local oafs, foodies roughing it and the odd random tourist. It’s an ‘in the know’ gem. Afternoon Wanderings… If you’re in Praga, its decrepit pre-war streets are a canvas of wild outdoor mural art and provide much to see and view. The essence of the area though is contained on Ząbkowska street and it’s here you’ll find the former Koneser vodka factory. Reborn as a swanky mixed-use project, pencil in a visit to its flagship attraction: the Polish Vodka Museum. After, road test the stuff you’ve learned about in W Oparach Absurdu, a dive bar whose dusty Persian rugs and second-hand fittings hide an atmosphere permanently set to ‘crazy’. Dinner Break Peeling yourself out of Absurdu is a tricky busi-

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE SHUTTERSTOCK, OPPOSITE PAGE FROM TOP, SHUTTERSTOCK, KEVIN DEMARIA (2)

Sleepy Morning? Hangover did you say? Use The Cool Cat as your first aid point. For breakfast, their shakshuka, avocado toast and banh mi are recognized for their restorative qualities, but so too are kick-ass cocktails that will rebuild your world. The rumbased Tomejto Tomato will make you feel new. After, the area is honeycombed with cafes primed for lazy Sundays, but none more so than the hip, liberal-minded Stor.

MONDAY Kufle i Kapsle

Morning Matters After years of doing breakfast badly (and several years before of hardly doing it all), Warsaw’s morning scene has woken up. Use your final day wisely to check out one of the legends of the city’s A.M. hours: Charlotte on Pl. Zbawciela arguably kick-started it all ten-years ago when they introduced the idea of freshly-baked breads, communal tables and homemade spreads, and their name continues to be one of the first on the lips despite occasionally varying results. Also French-inspired, Krem are a veritable legend with their Croque Monsieur and Croque Madame something of a best-seller. A little more maverick, Forum is a specialty café first and foremost (and one of the best in the biz), but do visit for some light, fresh snacks, many of which are sourced on the day from one of Warsaw’s premier bakers (Cała W Mące).

Źródło

ness, but do so by promising yourself dinner at Źródło. Located within staggering distance, the casual, retro interior is ideal for a Sunday evening chillout over soul-warming, reimagined Polish classics and domestically produced bio wines. Evening Drinkies Warsaw has over 40 dedicated craft beer bars listed on the outstanding ontap app and you should use your last night to get to know the best. Credited with brewing Poland’s first commercially available craft beer, Pinta are legendary and after a string of covid-enforced delays their portfolio can be enjoyed at their eponymous downtown bar. Above all else though, make space in the diary to visit Nowogrodzka street which has come to be seen as the throbbing heart of Warsaw’s craft scene. Far easier to digest on an easygoing Sunday night, the bars that can’t be missed are Jabeerwocky, Kufle i Kapsle and Drugie Dno.

Krem

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Neighborhood Prowl

The Other Side Of Saska K.

Think of Saska Kępa and one is most likely to envisage the modernist architecture that lends it so much of its inter-war spirit. But this prestigious suburb is no one-trick pony, and it’s not uncommon to find its leafy, pretty streets enriched by wacky oddities from the Communist period…

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2022

Fairground Attraction? Designed by Marek Leykam, Waszyngtona 2B is often considered one of the great architectural achievements of 60s Poland. This was the first post-war ‘tower’ to be built on the river’s right side, and its glass façade became the talk of the press – residents, though, soon began moaning about baking hot summers and frigid winters; in 1973, the city was left with no choice but to remove this transparent frontage and replace it with the more practical solution you see today. And what of that wheel that’s just about visible perched on the top? Some claim it was the architect’s nod to the fairground that once stood here at the beginning of the 20th century, while others have posited it was meant for a helipad. According to more, a revolving rooftop café was to be positioned on this wheel, a plan only thwarted when finances ran out. Ahoy There! Celebrating its 50th birthday this year, Fregata (Międzynarodowa 65) is not just a legend of the Kępa, but of Warsaw as a whole. Established in 1962, this bar is nothing if not a curiosity, filled as it is with maritime flags, pictures of seafaring vessels (the Titanic, gulp), model galleons, bits of rope, lanterns and life rings. Its nostalgic charms attract all manner of Saska locals both rich and poor, young and old – on board the Fregata, all are equal. Spirit Of The Past Rebranding as Mezalians in February, the management haven’t fooled anyone – a cursory renovation aside, this is still the Bar Alpejski that we’ve long known and loved. Found on Międzynarodowa 68, this curious L-shaped space is best recognized for its bar in the

front, a strange space decorated with metallic Zodiac-themed wall tiles. The gloomy eatery in the back, adorned with spindly plants and funky mosaics (shaped in the silhouette of the Alps), transforms every now and again when bands and DJs enter to play blues and golden oldies. On the right night, this place is brilliant. Set In Stone Running down the area’s furthest eastern flank, the Osiedle Młodych housing estate was originally planned to contain all manner of leisure and retail options. These never saw life, but one part of this project did – that being, the in-fill of green areas with sculptures to help humanize the area. Freshly cleaned after years amassing grime, the trail includes works by some of Poland’s most eminent sculptors of the post-war years: for example, Wiosna by Teresa Brzóskiewicz; Pelikan by Tadeusz Markiewicz; and the rather crappy looking Javelin by Władysław Frycz. Best of the lot, looks for Mieczysław Welter’s ‘conversation’, which features two women on a pole gazing beyond each other, and Ryszard Wojciechowski’s ‘Majestat wszechżycia’. Standing around 2.5 meters in height, it depicts a naked woman apparently sitting on the sun. Dating from the mid70s to early 80s, the meaning of all of these works is unknown, but without doubt they cast their own bizarre spell on those who pass by. Welcome To The Space Age Formerly called the Copernicus Estate, the past lives on at Osiedle Ateńska by way of a colorful planetary inspired mosaic attached to the neon-topped block that is the Pawilon Osiedle Ateńska on Egipska 4. Unveiled warsawinsider.pl

Neighborhood Prowl around about 1975 (accounts vary), the idea was coined during the celebrations held to mark the 500th anniversary of the birth of the astronomer Copernicus. Taking into account this was an era in which everything to do with space enthralled the world, the cosmos is further celebrated by way of an ugly metal monument close by designed Maciej Szańkowski in 1974. Allegedly, it represents an armillary sphere. At The Pavilions Throughout the PRL period, Poland saw a flush of pavilions built to serve retail uses: quick and cheap to erect, many of these low-slung structures remain today, sitting like eyesores reminding Poles of an uncomfortable past. Some, though, have been cunningly revived, not least the one found at Zwycięzców 49. Housing Klubokawiarnia Towarzysko, an arty neighborhood bar that was at the forefront of Warsaw’s ‘hipster revolution’ a decade or so back, it was lovingly reinvented by local architect Jan Strumiłło who chose to retain original details such as the sinks and concrete floors as well as the white tiles that once decorated the butchery that traded here. Also touting a 60s style neon on the roof, it’s a place that balances history with the present. A cheeky beer break is a must! Snap! Anyone that enjoys a kebab at Efes (hell, who doesn’t?) will have noticed the intriguing black-and-white photos of Celina Osiecka that are plastered close by. They’re there to advertise the services of this legendary photographer, a snapper whose studio lies at Zwycięzców 25. A

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2022

time capsule in its own right, its functioned since 1975. Eschewing modern photographic techniques, her analogue pictures – each of them hand-processed – have made her one of the legendary old school artisans working in modern Warsaw. A Socialist Harvest Unveiled in 1947, the Plon (Yield) relief on the corner of Katowicka and Zwycięzców was designed by Jerzy Jarnuszkiewcz, one of the most influential Polish sculptors of the 20th century. Initially, it was added as part of a wider plan to transform the character of Saska by filling it with sculptures and public art. Allowed to decay in the decades that followed, today it positively sparkles anew after being restored in 2011. Featuring a boy holding two fish while a lamb scuttles around his feet, the relief was complemented three years later after the nearby concrete benches were also rescued. The Castle In The Air The PRL era was not without its crazy, unhinged architectural excesses, and these come into sharp focus on Bajońska 6. Though much of this property was built in the inter-war years, it was in 1970 that a military collector by the name of Bohdan Węgler decided to add a fairy tale tower to the building to house his collection of militaria. Complete with slit windows and a pointy roof, it’s an abstract and unexpected treasure. The Great Escape During the PRL era, kids from across town would reputedly visit to scavenge in embassy and consular bins, hoping to

retrieve Coke cans and Western food wrappers that they could then proudly display in their bedrooms. Since the fall of the Iron Curtain, many of those diplomatic missions shifted elsewhere, among these the former German Embassy on Dąbrowiecka 30. Now marked by a commemorative plaque, the sign honors the help extended by German diplomats to Poles in 1989. An estimated 6,000 people flooded here in the space of a few months seeking asylum and papers to allow them to flee westwards. Going beyond the call of duty, the German staff kept the refugees fed and watered with tea and sandwiches whilst they waited on news regarding their applications.

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Head To Head:

Hoża & Wilcza

Supremely atmospheric, and now teeming with vegan restaurants and hip cafes, join us for a side-by-side exploration of two parallel side streets that seem to encapsulate the eccentricities of the center: Hoża and Wilcza…

GEEK-GASM! Yatta.pl

Hoża 19 Describing itself as a ‘center of pop culture’, Yatta started life as a suffocatingly small 20 sq/m store on Chmielna. Over 15-years on, they’ve become the largest comic store chain in Poland and one of the nation’s most prominent publishers of Manga. Considered their spiritual flagship, the Hoża bastion is gorgeously set out with glass encased figurines in the middle, graphic novels in other areas and yet more sections dedicated to memorabilia, art and, even, weird Japanese candy.

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2022

Wargamer

Wilcza 62 In contrast to the light, bright spaces of Yatta, Wargamer feels cramped and almost creaky. By no means is that a criticism. Specializing in the sale of historical, sci-fi and fantasy board games, there’s also a ton of paints, tools, brushes and accessories with which to pimp up your board. Touting also some massive tables on which to play against other like-minded people, check their FB to see what live games they have lined up – hugely atmospheric, there’s a nerdy charm to these events with the intense concentration broken by clacking dice and pizza deliveries from next door.

LET THERE BE LIGHT! The Girl In Green

Hoża 62 Nowadays, every restaurant and store needs its own neon sign to act as an affirmation of its cool. This part of Warsaw is particularly rich with these, but Youmiko Sushi do it better than most. Coined by Maurycy Gomulicki (an artist / public figure with shades of Ziggy Stardust about him), the green neon that marks Youmiko is a striking work truly befitting of one of Poland’s best vegan restaurants.

Specs Appeal

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Wilcza 5 / Mokotowska 61 There’s no shortage of stunning corner buildings around Warsaw’s south-central district, but this one is tough to beat in terms of beauty. Completed in 1912, its top corner was once crowned by an ornate dome. Known for its luxury, features included rarities such as gas cookers, central heating and a mahogany-lined elevator. Briefly functioning as a girls school between 1919 and 1939, it’s been restored to its best in recent times with embellishments including a funky neon pair of Lennon-style specs to mark out the ground floor store.

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Head to Head: Hoża & Wilcza HIDDEN GEM Hoża 70 Not all courtyards are equal. Gain entrance to Hoża 70 and you’ll happen upon what’s colloquially known as ‘the Doll House’. As cute as a button, and sneaked inside a 19th century courtyard, this twofloored building was added in 1910 and served as the home of the Hipolit Majewski dyeing store until 1937. Dwarfed by the surrounding buildings, and capped with a trio of pointy gables, it’s a genuine covert gem.

COOL COLLECTIBLES Kwadryga

Wilcza 29 Sift through vintage photos, retro posters, out-ofprint books, antique atlases, forgotten lifestyle titles and TV mags from the communist period. There’s even a selection of signed tomes. Mainly Polish interest, but nevertheless a must for bookworms; even just entering is laced with secrecy and adventure – you’ll need to ring the buzzer on the main gate before heading across the courtyard and stepping down into this little curiosity shop.

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2022

Kabak

Hoża 51 Beanies, scarves, belts, blankets, knickers, caps and candles: Kabak has these all, but it’s their socks that are arguably the most famous. Since 2013, this brand has been known for their colorful and occasionally wacky socks featuring motifs such as flamingos, eyeballs, cows and donuts. But for something that really underlines their ‘made in Poland’ ethos, stock up on socks dedicated to things such as Kraków’s pesky pigeons, the cats of the Palace of Culture, the goats (and croissants) of Poz, Wrocław’s gnomes and so forth.

DON’T PASS IT OVER!

SOCIALIST TIME WARPS

Hoża / Chałubińskiego Designed by Bohdan Pniewski and finished in 1950, the Ministry of Infrastructure is one of Warsaw’s most bizarre Socialist landmarks, and is notable for its strange sand-colored rotunda supported by narrow columns. Though that bit is found on Chałubińskiego, its weirdness extends to span Hoża thanks to the addition of an overhead walkway perched on stilts.

Off The Walls

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Wilcza 33 & 35 Separated by Marszałkowska, the two buildings at No. 33 and 35 were a cornerstone of the MDM development, a Socialist Realist housing estate that didn’t miss a chance to promote Utopian ideals. Look up and you’ll view a relief depicting a peasant woman picking grapes, and on the other side, an intricated mosaic set under a giant clock face produced in Sopot and then transported piece-bypiece to Warsaw. Both, apparently, were the work of Hanna Żuławska.

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BEAT THE BUZZER Some Like It Squat

Wilcza 30 Often bedecked with political banners and declarations hanging from the windows, it’s impossible not to notice the ‘Syrena’ squat. Established in 2011, the squat is celebrated and vilified in equal measure: there are some who praise its arty activities, print workshops, food sharing initiatives, and bike hospitals. Others, though, have reported instances of homophobic bullying and a hierarchy of power at odds with the anarchist philosophy. To judge for yourself, negotiate entrance at the barred gate.

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2022

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA, OPPOSITE PAGE BOTTOM SHUTTERSTOCK

Head to Head: Hoża & Wilcza

Mercure

Krucza 28 Ok, so it’s got a Krucza address, but with so much of this building running alongside Hoża we can’t help but include it. First completed in 1957, this hotel was an integral part of the new ‘government district’ and specifically intended to provide lodgings for visiting politicians. Built in Socialist Realist style, during Communism it doubled as the address for embassies of Japan and Australia, though it was for the 11th floor Olimp restaurant that it was most famous. So named in honor of the Polish Olympic Committee that was based inside the building, the eatery was regarded as one of Warsaw’s trendiest eateries during the height of Communism and featured spinning disco lights and panoramic views.

STAY ANOTHER DAY Nobu

Wilcza 73 With their opening sandwiched between lockdowns, the timing of Nobu’s Warsaw debut could not have been less fortunate. But hey, quality counts in the long run. Famously founded by Robert DeNiro, producer Meir Teper and chef Nobuyuki Matsuhisa, the trio’s Polish venture has garnered rave reviews since opening in 2020 with famous guests reputedly including Joanna Krupa. Split into two distinct sections, the hotel features one ultra-modern wing stacked inside a triangular footprint, and then an older Art Deco themed section which was protected from any seismic transformations on the personal insistence of Teper. warsawinsider.pl

Head to Head: Hoża & Wilcza

CULT DRINKS Wilcza 29 When Gorączka Złota opened in 1996 this street was a helluva’ lot different. Best known for its excessive number of brothels and inordinate amount of dog poop, it was definitely far-removed from the place you see today – only the comforting presence of GZ connects you to the past. Seen as a greenish glow from the outside, step indoors to be met by a place whose wooden surfaces have been clad with hundreds of rescued beer coasters. Exuding a warm sense of home, the biggest pull is a rotating roster of epic, local craft beers – a bad pint is inconceivable!

Aura

Hoża 27 There probably are smaller bars in Warsaw, but finding them would require a magnifying glass. Nestled inside a small nook on Hoża, the mousehole dimensions of Aura are tempered by the tall ceilings and Moroccan-style design: dark, mysterious and intriguing, there’s something decadent and delicious about it all. It’s a sentiment that extends to the drinks, many of which incorporate Aura’s exhaustive collection of bourbons. Promoting the heavy use of swivelly chrome stools and Persian rugs, the heavy hint of retro glam is offset by a head-turning crowd of international good-lookers.

SENDING, SENDING… SENT! Hoża 74 It doesn’t look like much, but it was in this building that Poland’s internet was born! Though the exact date (and sender) remains disputed by some, it’s generally believed that the country’s first ever email was sent from here on August 17th, 1991. Hooking up with the University of Copenhagen, Rafał Pietrak, an employee of Warsaw University’s Faculty of Physics, established a one-minute connection to his counterparts in Denmark and sent a brief message saying ‘hello’. Frequently described as the nation’s first internet user, Pietrak also received Poland’s first reply the following week from Hamburg.

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2022

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE BY ED WIGHT, OPPOSITE PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Gorączka Złota

DURING THE WAR… War Wounds

Wilcza 72 When the Insider first started out, this part of Wilcza was quite terrifying at night. Half-derelict, tenements scarred with wartime bullet holes teetered over pot-holed pavements on which beaky pensioner-prostitutes would gather in the shadows. Totally unrecognizable now, the revival of the area has been nothing short of staggering. Even so, to much applause, one developer sought to preserve the area’s bridge to the past by protecting one section of Wilcza’s war damage with protective, transparent covering. .

Franciscan Convent

Hoża 53 More recognizable for its ‘window of life’, a small hatch that desperate mothers can use to leave unwanted newborns, the convent on Hoża 53 played a vital role in saving Jewish children during WWII. During the Uprising, the nuns organized a soup kitchen for Warsaw’s embattled civilians, tended to the wounded and also helped stage a dozen covert weddings. When the insurgents capitulated, Mother Matylda Getter allowed for the slaughter of the convent’s pig and, it is said, handed soldiers marching into captivity a piece of bread and a small strip of bacon.

YOU NEVER KNEW THAT! Ghost House

Wilcza 2/4 Reputedly one of Warsaw’s most haunted buildings, residents have complained of flowers withering, women cackling and floors bleeding – eek! The stories date back to the suicide of a 19th century student (who can still be spotted walking around with his dog), though other tales include that of a woman that slit the throats of her two children and shot her philandering husband before hanging herself from a doorknob. On top of all that, another woman is rumored to have had her body concealed under the floorboards after being murdered by the building’s manager. With that in mind, stories of a forlorn Wehrmacht officer wandering about seem benign in comparison. warsawinsider.pl

Head to Head: Hoża & Wilcza

SIGNATURE STUNNERS Kamienica Chaim Braun’a

Hoża 41 On a street awash with architectural nuggets, they don’t come any better than the ornately decorated wedding cake tenement wedged on the corner of Hoża and Poznanska. Touting multi-story bay windows and floral motifs, it was built in 1912 for Chaim Braun and his wife, Janina Macierakowska. Though largely insignificant in its history (one of the few stories to be found involves the 1917 theft of Macierakowska’s jewelry box by her maid), this is nonetheless one of the standout buildings in central Warsaw, and a glorious example of just why the city was once regarded as ‘the Paris of the East’. Wilcza 22 Built in 1894, this building was the joint vision of Alekander Woyde, an architect credited with over 300 Warsaw buildings, and Karol Kozłowski, a man whose CV included the Warsaw Philharmonic and the redesign of the Bruhl Palace. Cited as an example of French neo-romanticism, its treasures include four male statuettes that lean from the walls to support the bay windows above. Bearing a post-war inscription informing residents that the building had been ‘de-mined’ (out of view unless you live there), this has been one of the best renovations Warsaw has witnessed; just 15-years back the building had trees growing from its half-collapsed roof!

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2022

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Kamienica w Podwórzu

Just Opened

Grono_Mokotowska ul. Mokotowska 54

LESS IS MORE

Forever in fashion, Mokotowska street adds another star to its bow...

Billing itself as “a place for people who value pleasant moments with a glass of good wine,” this somewhat modest description undersells what is sure to become one of Warsaw’s big check-ins. But then again, the clipped language is a reflection of Grono’s measured approach. A place of subtle and calming class, their philosophy moves in rhythm with a design authored by the Moszczyńska Puchalska studio – featuring ceramic floor tiles and an inter-connected table arrangement, it’s an intimate space (30 sq/m!) that softly whispers goodness. Set with easy colors, there is nothing that overpowers the chief attraction: wines stored on gorgeous wall fittings that have been made to feel like they organically belong inside this pre-war property. warsawinsider.pl

Review FOOD FROM THE HEART

In Praga, Ukrainian women are cooking up a storm!

BACKGROUND The idea of real estate firm Grupa Arche, Garmaż was created as a refugee-run restaurant serving traditional Ukrainian home cooking. Thus far, six women have been handed work, among them a former shoe shop owner, a primary school director, and a retired

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2022

post office manager. According to a spokesperson from Grupa Arche, that’s helped add homespun authenticity to their kind-hearted project. “These aren’t professional cooks,” they say, “so what you’re getting is exactly the kind of cooking you’d expect at home.”

THE FOOD The menu is a simple blackboard affair with just a few choices scribbled. Cheap and cheerful, these include filling bowls of Ukrainian-style barszcz, hand-cut pierogi and pielmieni, ‘Jewish-style’ cutlets with mashed potatoes and caramelized pancakes. Sincere and heartfelt, its simple food that will warm the soul. Grupa Arche, meanwhile, have stressed that this pilot project is just the beginning. Having already played a sizeable role in housing refugees, the company hopes to roll-out even more restaurants in the future.

Garmaż od Ukrainek ul. Kijowska 1, fb.com/garmazodukrainek

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

THE PLACE The location is not incidental. Set just down the road from Wschodnia train station, it was to here that thousands of refugees first arrived on transports heading from Ukraine. Though created in just a matter of days, the restaurant has the look of a professionally conceived canteen with a light, white design, token bits of artwork referencing the colors of Ukraine and dual-language signage.

Review RAISING THE BAR

At Syty Chmiel, it’s not just the beer that elevates this newbie to Warsaw’s attention…

WHERE ARE YOU? Visit Syty Chmiel and you’ll find yourself on that odd track of no-man’s land running between Pl. Zbawiciela and Pl. Unii Lubelskiej. Visually presenting itself as an Orwellian wilderness of Soviet era stone and concrete, for the last five-years this precise address fronted Chmielarnia Marszałkowska, a pub with an identity crisis. Though loved by many (us included), you were never quite sure what they wanted to be: a multi-tap bar or an Indian restaurant? At times, you got the idea they weren’t even sure themselves.

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2022

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

eft largely to fend for itself during the lockdowns, Poland’s craft beer sector has struggled to adjust to the new reality since the easing of restrictions, and that much has been evidenced by the rising number of bars and breweries exiting the artisan segment. Even so, as some fall by the wayside, their numbers are being replenished by ambitious newbies stepping up to rise to the challenges of the times – and in that respect, consider Syty Chmiel as one such example.

Syty Chmiel Marszałkowska 10/16, fb.com/sytychmiel

TO THE PRESENT If the previous incumbent felt a little incoherent, the new tenant has redressed those faults via design that feels entirely whole and befitting of the overall place. Entering, visitors walk first past a long bar before happening upon two side large side rooms. Before, these two chambers felt like a hollow and forgotten afterthought. Now, they’ve been absorbed into the rest of the concept thanks to an interior rethink that has seen the adoption of a dark, forest green color scheme, as well as the addition of numerous pot plants. Though undeniably large, intimacy isn’t short in supply, and that’s down to the addition of comfortable armchairs, framed pictures, atmospheric lo-lighting and some personal trinkets to reflect the passions of the owners (skateboards, for instance). All in all, despite its

copiously large footprint, Syty Chmiel has a warmth to it that causes visitors to settle in for a long night ahead. ORDER THIS Drinks first, and Syty Chmiel picks up the gauntlet thrown down by Chmielarnia to make full use of the long, long bar left behind. There’s twelve taps in total, and these offer a regular rotating offer of local craft goodness: on our visit, that meant a healthy balance between the on-trend and weird (e.g. Splash Red, a double-fruited pomegranate and blackcurrant gose) to easy-drinking Czech classics such as Primator weizen. And big points to the fridge: too many tap bars hide their bottled and canned glories in impossibly-located fridges that can only be viewed by those wearing x-ray specs. Here, find them in open view right next to the bar.

ORDER THAT It’s not just about the drinks, either. Better-known as Pan Tasak, co-owner Wit Szychowski has devised a menu that makes a mockery of those found in the city’s other craft pubs. Whilst some competitors have increasingly awarded prominence to their food, none have raised the bar so much as Syty Chmiel. A celebration of Poland’s rural greatness, Pan Tasak’s menu is divided into small bowls (e.g. white sausage with sour rye four sauce and fried onions) and big bowls (e.g. blood sausage pancakes with caramelized apples) and also features buns cascading with smoked goat cheese, spring cabbage and grain mustard. Hearty yet surprisingly sophisticated in its presentation and tastes, this is the kind of food befitting of the sound of clinking glasses. warsawinsider.pl

Take a street SPOTLIGHT: LWOWSKA

Always pretty, but always pretty boring, Lwowska street is finally having its day thanks to a rash of recent openings that have handed it new life. Could this yet become ‘the new Poznańska’?

GANON RAMEN BAR Subway tiles and concrete colors dominate this locale, and despite the slightly bare aesthetics its tiny size generates an atmosphere of warm, neighborly intimacy. Clearly ramen is the big seller here, and choices number a spicy pork tonkotsu served with a peeled tomato and an Insta-friendly vegan winner featuring mushrooms, asparagus and celery chips in a frothy broth of Jerusalem artichokes and mushrooms. What else? For people that don’t enjoy slurping in public, instead order the gyoza dumplings or the pillowy soft bao bun with bacon. The little details here are great, and we include the Hata carbonated soft drinks that open with a pop.

COPHI II

Lwowska 2A

Already established on Hoża as one of Warsaw’s favorite sources of specialty coffee, Cophi have cast their net a little further (and we mean a little – as in 500 meters or so) to cover Lwowska. And what a gem it is: personally designed by Uri, the owner, find a bijou space lavished in shades of candy cotton pink and rich, forest green; finished with a healthy, heavy dose of fresh wood, poster art and patterned floor tiles, this nook is made all the better by the presence of a limited edition Conti Monaco coffee machine.

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2022

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA EXCEPT OPPOSITE PAGE TOP COURTESY OF LOVAGE BIISTRO

Lwowska 9

LOVAGE BISTRO Lwowska 9

Seemingly run by a mega friendly team of young Ukrainians, Lovage does indeed have much to love. Squirreled down a short set of steps, find yourself inside a tiny little cavern filled with pre-war floors, bare bulbs and exposed brickwork. Small but perfectly formed, food is Spanish accented and revolves around tapas dishes (some of which are more successful than others), as well as a trio of paellas and some commendable ribs. Cocktails are cheap by Warsaw standards and don’t climb over 20, while other tipples include Lagosta ice wine and the sweet and fruity Pomegrigio. Above all though, it is the atmosphere you’ll love the most – this place is designed to turn your day around and send you home feeling good with the world.

BEER STATION CENTRUM Lwowska 17

MISS BANH MI

A proper pub whose international audience is dominated by exiled Belarussians and Ukrainians – the pre-Lukashenko flag and yellow-andblue banner posed behind the bar should tell you all about what side the Belarussian owners support. Traipsing down a plunging set of stairs, visitors reach a cave-like space whose warm brick skin can just about be discerned amid the darkness and shouts. Often rowdy and raucous but in a way that’s hugely friendly, nights here get loud and messy with both guys and girls hellbent on merriment. Drinks-wise, the choice involves mainstream Czech and German imports, as well as Polish craft weirdness and occasional guests from Poland’s eastern borderlands.

Lwowska 9

Former model Nina learned from the best: her parents. Harnessing the family’s secret recipes, she’s used these to her advantage to carve a name as one Warsaw’s street food legends. First catching our eye at the seasonal Nocny Market, she’s transferred those tastes to this bricks-andmortar joint. Glowing warmly from the outside, step inside this small, steamy unit to order banh mi served on her freshly-baked homemade bread. Our fave: the pulled chicken with lime leaves. Boasting an after-taste that can be called ‘distinct’, coffee with egg is Nina’s secret hack for the perfect experience. warsawinsider.pl

REVIEW WOK MY WORLD

Warsaw’s seen Thai street food before, but rarely of this caliber…

BACKGROUND Recently relocated from the legendary Arkada (that slightly seedy-looking two-level shopping gallery under Poniatowski Bridge), to a historic tollbooth on Pl. Unii Lubelskiej, Ahaan is drawing their devoted customers to higher ground. Serving mostly authentic street food from northern Thailand, that transpires to mean more herbs (ginger and lemongrass) and earthy flavors. Feeling different to Warsaw’s other Thai options, Ahaan is a fresh alternative and has breathed new life into one of Warsaw’s most iconic roundabouts. TAKE A DISH For our choice, consider the Pad kra pao, a traditional dish found in both northern and southern of Thailand. Featuring stir fried rice with a choice of pork, beef, bacon or tofu, it comes with long beans and a fried savory egg on top. That the owners have also sourced holy basil, a much sought-after ingredient, speaks much for their passion. With this essential element costing around zł. 80 per kilo, you know Ahaan are serious when they blab about being authentic. INSIDER TIPS

• While the dish itself is flavorful and the egg can be considered a treasure of pleasure with its delicate textures and hints of fish sauce, the dish is even better when you spice it up using the accompanying jars on the table. • Sure to be a summer hit, keep your eyes peeled for the forthcoming addition of a 70 sq/m summer garden. That should have already debuted by the time this mag returns from the printing press.

AHAAN Thai Street Food

Pl. Unii Lubelskiej 1, ahaan.pl

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2022

REVIEW First Bite Eter Vegan Bakery

ul. Hoża 5/7, fb.com/eterveganbakery

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD BY KEVIN DEMARIA

YOU’RE THE SWEETEST

ooks can be deceiving. Walking inside Eter, most visitors will remark on the cold sterility of the place: large, concrete and anonymous, it’s sparingly decorated with a few scattered succulents, some retro armchairs and a portrait of a bubblegum blowing Mona Lisa. Looking at it, it’s redolent of the entrance lobby of a commie residential block. Despite that, no-one walks out, and that’s on account of desserts that are earning a name as things you’d be prepared to die for. Though steep in price, the quality is indisputable even if the quantity

is not – visit late in the day and the counter will be all but empty. Truly though, these things are forgiven for Warsaw has not seen desserts like this before. Offering a range of cheesecakes, meringues, croissants, pavlovas, donuts, muffins and cupcakes, the tastes are staggering and fully justify the cost. Made with premium, vegan ingredients, Eter hits the bull’s eye, with our thumbs up going to the strawberry tartlet, and an insanely sinful chocolate cake with crispy nuts in salted caramel. This place might not look like much at first, but the proof is in the pudding. Brilliant.

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Review

PHO REAL!

Vietnamese food gets a southern loving touch in this north Warsaw standout…

PREMISE Buoyed by waves of immigration that go back decades, Warsaw has no shortage of Vietnamese eateries – unbelievably almost, all have so far focused on the cuisine of the north. Hoping to redress the balance somewhat, Spice & You heave the spotlight onto the other end of the country, a part where Chinese, Thai, Cambodian and French influences are evident. According to the owner, Tuan, it is food that is bolder, and more expressive in its taste. “The friendly climate and fertile soil favor the variety of vegetables and fruits there,” he says. “Due to their abundance, there’ll always be fresh herbs and vegetables, and this makes flavors of the south all the more intense.”

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2022

Striving first and foremost to reproduce Saigon’s street tastes, Spice & You is a space whose menu cherishes the nuances and values of this ancient cuisine. “Our philosophy is guided by a Vietnamese saying,” says Tuan. “We do not want this restaurant to visited by a thousand different guests, but for one guest to visit it a thousand times.” THE PLACE From the outside, Spice & You doesn’t naturally draw you in – located on the ground floor of a dreary, commie era residential block, it’s easy to bypass it without second thought. But if it feels a bit discouraging at first glance, then spirits lift the moment you enter. Set with colorful silk lanterns dangling from the ceilings, it’s a place in which you

Spice & You Al. Jana Pawła II 65, spiceandyou.com

feel immediately at home. Well dimensioned – neither too big nor too small – and fitted out with dark green furnishings, fresh white walls, hardwood floors and huge windows, the space feels casual, smart and well thought-out. DRINKS If you weren’t aware, Vietnam is the second biggest exporter of coffee in the world, and this fixation with caffeine manifests itself in the form of a coffee culture that feels highly ritualistic. Served in a so-called ‘phin’ filter, coffee is brewed in super slow-motion, but rewards patience with its sweet, strong flavors. Of the other liquid standouts, the mango milkshake is recommended as a dessert, and you’ll soon learn why. Thick, cooling and refreshing, it’s an indulgent way to end your evening.

FINAL WORD An immensely enjoyable experience, at Spice & You it is the vibrance of Vietnamese food culture that really strikes home. A carnival of textures and flavors, these disparate elements are harmonized to form a coherent and delicious whole. In a city filled with sub-par Vietnamese options, Spice & You soars above the competition to provide something truly memorable and authentic.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

FOOD There’s no skimping on ingredients here. Whilst most Vietnamese joints in Poland like the frequent shortcut, that’s not an option at Spice & You. “Most places will use Polish white cabbage,” says Tuan, “but here you’ll only find Vietnamese taro potatoes.” With this food tasting better when shared, visitors should understand the generous approach to portioning and take advantage of that to arrive in numbers and order a smattering of random choices. Using exactly that strategy, for us that meant beginning with shrimp summer rolls wrapped in rice paper, loaded with herbs and then dipped in a peanut sauce of such magisterial glory that the world stops spinning. “These are a grab and go staple of Saigon,” says Tuan, and you understand why. There’s also bún bò, an aromatic broth with

boiled beef, spring onions, coriander, rice noodles and fresh herbs and veg. Catapulted into western conscience by Gordon Ramsay, it’s a dish that encourages diners to play around with spices to customize their preferred heat level. Also playing a star turn on the menu is the bánh khọt, a plate of mini pancakes made with rice flour, coconut milk and turmeric. Crispy on the outside, soft on the inside, these little treasures are eaten in one bite and come with a choice of fillings that include mushroom, tofu and carrot; pork; or shrimp. And, of course, find also a range of pho soups and other such classics of Vietnam.

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Roundup

As Cinco De Mayo approaches, join us for a look at our favorite Mexican haunts in Warsaw… Blue Cactus

Dobra 42 (Elektrownia) Make or lose friends over Montana Nachos at Blue Cactus

They say legends never die, and proving that is the long-awaited return of this Warsaw institution. Originally launched in the 90s, the Cactus is best remembered for raucous, margarita fueled nights and a menu credited with opening the city’s then innocent culinary eyes. Much has changed since, but whilst the management have promised to cater for nostalgists, they’re also a adopting an updated, modern-minded philosophy and an approach valuing artisanal, local produce. Yep, we can’t wait to visit.

WHAT WE RATE

We’ll tell you next month!

Dos Tacos Jasna 22

The true secret weapon at Dos Tacos is Isabel Balderas, a Mexican chef that has mastered the bright, bold tastes of her native country. Although Dos Tacos isn’t the most ‘fashionable’ of Mexican eateries, the food is often exceptional – the Al Pastor tacos are our go-to order.

WHAT WE RATE

The salsas are beautiful and, at times, beautifully dangerous.

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2022

Roundup The under-the-counter salsa clandestinas should come with a health warning. But despite their lethal potential to incapacitate, you keep dipping in for more no matter as to the risks involved.

El Popo

Senatorska 27

Age hasn’t wearied El Popo one iota. This place feels like it’s been around for longer than the sun, but that hasn’t been to the detriment of the atmosphere. A place of happiness, the full color of the Mexican kitchen is brought to life via a menu that you can rely on – for old timers living in Warsaw, visiting El Popo isn’t dissimilar to popping on your favorite slippers.

WHAT WE RATE

Everything is better with a margarita at El Popo

As the temperatures begin to climb, look out for their paleta ice lollies.

Gringo Bar

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Various locations, inc. Odolańska 15 & Hala Koszyki

Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a perversely Polonized version of this cuisine, but in our eyes the informal Gringo remains one of Warsaw’s market leaders.

WHAT WE RATE

The philosophy. Before Gringo arrived, Mexican venues were the preserve of shouty expats and middle-aged Poles. Gringo popularized the food with an entirely younger demographic.

La Sirena Piękna 54

Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the small but hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh. But if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a more finessed approach to Mexican cuisine, the flavors and ingredients here speak of a kitchen keen to show a more nuanced side to this magical culture. And we just love that tart and tangy ‘near death’ salsa.

WHAT WE RATE

The cocktails here are a knock-

out. Inventive, exciting and expertly made, they’re to be reckoned as among the best in town.

MariCruz Mission Burrito Dobra 42 (Elektrownia)

Exuding the rackety, rickety feeling of a food shack, it’s an environment that’s ideal for such a simple street food staple as the “Mission burrito”. Lively and engaging, it’s exactly the required kind of backdrop when dealing with hand-held food. And what’s with the “Mission” part? That warsawinsider.pl

Roundup Rico

Jana Pawła II 61

On first look, Rico feels mainstream and unadventurous: at a time when restaurants are falling over each other to be brave and daring, Rico’s ABC choice of standard Tex-Mex seems prosaic. Perhaps it is, but that doesn’t stop it from being an enjoyable experience. Though lacking any salsas that actually bite, the food is reliably good – and often so much more. Served in a glass skull, the mango Coronita proves good company for your burrito.

Señor Lucas keeps it fast and spicy...

WHAT WE RATE

Rico, along with a one or two other joints down the road, have lifted the entire area out of its culinary black hole – that’s not be sniffed at.

Señor Lucas

sees the burrito given a treatment first devised in Frisco’s Mission district, with the tightly-rolled tortilla steamed rather than grilled to give it a more elastic texture that’s suited to packing it to the max with slow-cooked ingredients and boisterous homemade salsas.

WHAT WE LIKE

Not all of us are capable of eating successfully with our hands. With these people in mind, the girls of MariCruz have gone the extra yard by introducing idiot-proof burrito bowls.

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2022

Momencik

Poznańska 16

You don’t need to be vegan to enjoy Momencik, for such is their magnificence that this meat-free establishment outranks many of the ‘proper Mexicans’ in town. Limiting their menu to tacos, burritos, gringas and tostados, this pokey subterranean den has come to be regarded as one of the city’s cult addresses.

WHAT WE RATE

The salsas deserve a medal – you could happily exist on just the pineapple salsa for the rest of your life.

Submerged down one of those cramped, little walk-down units on Poznańska, its tiny proportions (one table and a counter to lean on) and basic aesthetics (a blackboard and some crates) belie a standard that sits there with the best – actually, it’s become our favorite Mex in town! Based around handmade tortillas, find a small menu of burritos and rolled quesadillas stuffed with marinaded meats and ringing with peppy salsas and big flavor contrasts.

WHAT WE RATE

The food, dummy – the addictive brilliance of Lucas is indisputable.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Hoża 41 (enter from Poznańska 16)

Best Of… Poland

To find the essence of Poland, visit any one of these restaurants – ranging from elegant to shabby, discover these for a 360 view of Polish cuisine…

various toppings. Budget-minded in both cost and appearance, it’s become one of Praga’s worst kept secrets with several of Poland’s top food writers praising it to the hilt. Filled with a wide cast of characters, nowhere does a better job of expressing the district’s soul than this ramshackle eatery.

THE FARM

ul. Mokotowska 8

Preaching a message of farm-tofork, this ambitious eatery takes its produce seriously – to the extent they have their own farm in the lake district to the north. Adjusted with the seasons, the menu on our visited included a roe deer stewed in Ukiel beer and served in a pan under a light puff pastry. Using chunky woods, copper light fittings and black and white floor tiles, the interior finishing leaves no doubt you’re somewhere upmarket.

ZIELONY NIEDŹWIEDŹ ul. Smolna 4

ul. Wilcza 29A

Warm, welcoming woodsy finishes offset against soothing pops of sunset shades make it a place in which you want to settle in and take it slow. Checkered black-and-white floor tiles add a hint of classic bistro styling, whilst the empty pans adorning the walls stare out like blank canvases as if serving to inspire Mariusz the chef to new flights of fancy. Dedicated to giving new life to old recipes, the schabowy is the best we’ve ever tried – anywhere!

BEZ GWIAZDEK ul. Wiślana 8

Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the mundane Polski feast. For many, it’s the best restaurant in the city!

POLANA SMAKÓW ul. E. Plater 14

Compact and woodsy, Polana

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2022

Smaków has lost none of its copious charm since trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw. Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, with his interpretation arriving with a homemade bagel and blobs of orange pumpkin. It’s sophisticated yet reassuringly simple.

PYZY FLAKI GORĄCE ul. Brzeska 29/31

The specialty here are pyzy, homemade dumplings that are squished into jars and lathered with

ŹRÓDŁO

ul. Targowa 81

The place looks great – hip but in tune with its retro address. Hardwood floors, exposed pipes and a flurry of plants equip an open area decorated with blasts of contemporary art, recycled furnishings, and other Boho bits and bobs – it’s casual, quirky and full of personality. Being here is a buzz. The seasonal menu is likewise a pleasure, and on our trip in December included pierogi with rich mushroom stock and smoked cottage cheese and a thick slab of herring served on a brioche with smoked plum jam.

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Patelnia Patera

A sanctuary of elegant fancy, it’s a place of long, dark shadows and discreet decorative touches: from the outset, you’re made to feel that good things will happen, and this they do. Certified by Poland’s fledgling slow food movement, the daily tinkered menu that opens your eyes to the real tastes of Poland.

Food Hubs

For a catch-all solution offering a variety of food and drinks under one address, check out the following Warsaw legends…

the city fed with electricity today, it’s feeding Warsaw something a helluva’ lot more tastier. You swing in for a food court that’s dazzling in both its offer and visual impact: neon is king! Cocktail bars, a craft beer point and an exhaustive selection of street food units (e.g. Philly cheese steak!) give cause to visit, but beyond these quite copious attractions, it is the retention of its historic character contrasted against the newly inserted elements that makes it such a visually enticing, standout hub.

HALA GWARDII

Pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1

Designed to complement, rather than compete, with the market outside, find a natural gravity effect that works to benefit both Gwardii and Hala Mirowska. Operating only weekends, Gwardii has become a well-loved addition to Warsaw’s gastro scene, with its farmers’ market working well with the food booths on the other side of this historic hall.

Hala Koszyki

NOCNY MARKET

ul. Towarowa 3 (Warszawa Główna)

ul. Koszykowa 63

Introducing the absolutely bleeding obvious, Hala Koszyki changed Warsaw’s mindset when it first opened in 2016. Gathering dozens of niche venues under the wrought iron ceiling of a historic market place, it transformed the way Warsaw eats, meets, drinks and plays. Still highly influential, it remains one of the places in which to be seen.

BROWARY WARSZAWSKIE ul. Grzybowska 60

Vying for the title of the year’s most exciting opening, find Browary in a revamped 19th century brewery once operated by Haberbusch and Schiele. The Browary area has blossomed anew with features such as the vaulted brick cellars turned over to house a food hall. Awash with food and drink options that include, among others, a sports bar and restaurant owned by Robert Lewandowski, as well as a three-floor flagship brewpub, it’s a place that’s as ambitious as it is aspirational.

CENTRUM PRASKIE KONESER Pl. Konesera

Set in the revitalized space of a 19th century vodka factory, Koneser has seamlessly blended modernity with post-industrial scenery to create an energetic dynamic reflected by its rich cultural and artistic offer, niche boutiques, local stores and impressive food and drink offer.

ELEKTROWNIA POWIŚLE ul. Dobra 42

A magnificent reinvention of a historic power plant that once kept

A nocturnal institution, Nocny Market is a street food market set on the battered, disused platform of an abandoned train station. Due to return this month, swing in to eat at an outdoor line-up of ultra-edgy collection of ethnic cook spots that are complemented by a couple of bars, trucks and tents housing makeshift barber shops, tattoo stands and DJ booths. Working Friday to Sunday, it’s a seasonal sensation!

NORBLIN FOOD TOWN Żelazna 51/53

Behold, Warsaw’s newest food hub! Set in the sympathetically restored Norblin Factory, you’re right to expect a banging atmosphere – food-wise, Tex-Mex, Israeli, Uzbek, Thai and Indian tastes are just some to look forward to. And next door, find the celebrated Bio Bazar.

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Specialty Coffee

Warsaw’s coffee culture has exploded, a point reflected by its number of specialty cafes – of course there’s more, but here’s our tried and tested faves…

accent, whilst there’s a few tables capable of holding a laptop should you fancy a bit of remote working. Coffee comes from the likes of HAYB, Heresy, Five Elephant and the Bydgoszcz-based Norwegian roaster Audun Sørbotten, though the cakes should not be overlooked either.

FAT WHITE ul. Andersa 6

Attached to one of the hippest, most Instagram-able barber shops in town, highlights of this adjoining cafe include a rocking cold brew, wickedly friendly staff and a halfmad collection of toy action figures (from Simpson models to a bad ass Al Pacino in full Scarface mode!). Tiny in its footprint, what it lacks in size it makes up for in heart: find a beauty of an interior that’s all swan white colors with walls graced by bookshelves and contemporary art that references Muranów’s past.

FILTRY DOBRA KAWA ul. Niemcewicza 3

ul. Próźna 7 (also on Wilcza 42).

Already established thanks to an uber-cool location on Wilcza, discover their latest outpost sitting on gloriously restored pre-war Próżna. Featuring brick finishes, warm woods and elegant lighting, the commitment to quality is underlined by a wall of coffee ephemera, a pair of La Marzocco machines and a glassed-in coffee lab set aside for trainings and workshops. For a more ascetic style, but more of the same quality, check their original address on Wilcza.

COPHI

ul. Hoża 58/60

The phrase three’s a crowd could have been coined with Cophi in mind. Its super-snug dimensions are ideal for an afternoon spent curled up on an armchair watching the trees bloom down on Hoża outside. A passion project whose small footprint is counterbalanced by the depth of its offer, the living room vibe mounts when the temperatures rise

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2022

and uber funky seating is added outdoors: it’s an al fresco living room!

DOBRE MATERIA ul. Nowolipki 13

Sleek low-lying black chairs hold the line with the bottom of the window pane encouraging gazing and making for an easy lounging experience. Hits of yellow in the porcelain cups provide a nice little

FORUM

ul. Elektoralna 11

Born with Instagram in mind, Forum has it all: super cool Afro-haired staff, a fashionably frayed interior, and a devoted client base that’s all about out-sized headphones and razor-thin laptops. Changing weekly, the big pull is a menu of specialty coffees from acclaimed roasters such as Five Elephant and The Coffee Collective fixed up by Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers Cup champion.

PHOTOGRAPH BY PRESS MATERIAL

Coffeedesk Próźna

Launched in 2007 by Konrad Konstantynowicz, Filtry was the original specialty coffee café, a groundbreaking operation that led by example. Enjoy your coffee in a high-ceilinged unit clad in chess board colors and scuffed PRL flooring – considered by the city’s coffee afficionados as a place of pilgrimage, the responsibility falls to us to ensure it’s still standing when this lunacy ends.

KAWIARNIA FABRYCZNA ul. Fabryczna 28/30

Head to this warm den to sink inside comfy retro chairs and wallow in the natural light that seeps through the window. Prepared on a Nuova Simonelli machine, the coffee hails from a range of pedigree roasters such as Warsaw’s own Coffee Lab. Creaky wooden floorboards, local artwork and non-obtrusive colors make it a prime perch after a wintry prowl through the parks of Powiśle.

RELAKS

ul. Puławska 48 An evergreen institution, the specialty coffee at Relaks commands respect across Poland. Jacketed in chipboard panels and retro posters, the buzz has lasted so long as to become ingrained in their DNA.

you ain’t here for the design. The winner here is coffee, and coffee as roasted by Sacred Mill since February of 2021. Focused but not limited to African coffees, find this crew following Nordic roasting practice which, it transpires, means light roasted coffees of consistent quality.

STOR

ul. Tamka 33

Heaven for freelancers and people watchers, visitors bask in natural light amid outbreaks of greenery and quirky design touches: over some of the best specialty coffee in the city, time runs away here

and before you know it hours have passed. Though it feels like a neighborhood warrior, it comes as no surprise that Stor’s patrons hail from all over Warsaw.

U KRAWCA

ul. Siennicka 3

Creaky floorboards and references to the address’s former function as a tailor’s shop lend a warmth that’s particularly pronounced once the overhead draftsman’s lamps are switched on. Homemade cakes, hipster colas and coffee sourced from the likes of Gesha keep it packed with a friendly crowd of local aficionados.

RELAX NA WILCZEJ ul. Wilcza 17

An updated upgrade of the original Relax found downtown, this modern day success story maximizes all available space and light with a clean-lined interior that’s embellished by a scattering of coffee tomes and a statement mural by Mariusz Tarkawian. A cracking edition to the capital’s line-up of alt. coffee haunts.

ROŚLINA

ul. Schroegera 80

Set in the heart of Stare Bielany, there’s something about Roślina that everyone loves. Using their shoestring budget to maximum effect, the plant-filled, concrete interior feels social and creative, though to make the most of the changing seasons head to the magical little garden to the side.

SACRED MILL BREW BAR ul. Grzybowska 43A

Through a heavy glass door visitors enter a space that’s minimal in size and design – lots of dark, hard surfaces offset by whites and charcoal colors and a few green succulents. As a look, it’s clean and intelligent and entirely fitting with the area. But

LOCAL FAVORITE FAWORY

ul. Mickiewicza 21

An intimate neighborhood cafe that comes complete with mugs that announce: “Fresh Coffee Tastes Betters”. You bet it does. The smoothies and regional beers are just as good though and come served inside a lively, gossipy interior that captures the essence of Warsaw café culture.

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Best of Europe

Broad as Europe is, we’ve cherry-picked some of our favorite specific tastes to be found in Warsaw…

DZIURKA OD KLUCZA Fort Służew 1B

Having upped sticks from their spiritual home in Powiśle, the DoK team magically teleported themselves to Fort 8 where they’ve carried on much as before: that is, knocking out beautiful homemade pasta and other Italian staples to appreciative audience that’s followed them for years. And it looks pretty fine as well – immerse yourself in an intimate and engaging interior decked out with door frames and hanging plants.

FRANK

ul. Grzybowska 43A

Decorated with gleaming golds and rich, dark shades of forest green, Frank has a quite sense of luxury. But having adjusted to the shine and gloss, one sees it for what it is: a place of good mood and food. For the latter, thank Aleksander Baron, a chef that’s reimagined German cuisine in an almost tapas-like form. Hits include Bavarian cheese Spätzle, superb sausages and Flammkuchen (a.k.a. German pizza).

KONESER GRILL

ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser)

ul. Górnośląska 24

You enter to be greeted by an installation featuring a tower of assorted ceramic waste before turning into a long, narrow room decorated in soothing forest shades. Evoking images of starry nights, the lighting casts a pleasing glow on a dining area whose statement piece is a beautifully backlit bar. You’ll love the interior, but the food even more. Last year, that meant small starter plates that introduced nibbly bits of modern Italy followed by a creamy, thick porcini risotto with chestnuts and a beef fillet with raisins, pine nuts and shallots.

BIBENDA

BUTCHERY & WINE

Preserving the prewar heritage of the building, the warm, busy interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a date or a special night out with friends. Catching the ambience perfectly, the menu is an interesting work that specializes in spotting unlikely combinations that actually work: for instance, ‘cilantro funky pork sausages’.

When Butchery opened in 2011 it completely transformed the way Poland viewed its steak. The first ‘new wave’ meat joint in the country, it’s launch lit the fuse for a steak revolution. Now an institution in its own right, this cosmopolitan spot remains one of the most sought out bookings in the capital.

ul. Nowogrodzka 10

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2022

ul. Żurawia 22

Brought to you from the same stable as Rozbrat 20 and Butchery & Wine, the Ferment Group’s latest opening ticks just about every box going. Amid smooth lighting, blond woods, metal fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colors, visit for a menu based around the concept of ‘fire’. Yes, that means meat. But beyond that, do also anticipate unexpected glories such as quail Scotch eggs and grilled Fine de Claire oysters.

KLONN

ul. Jazdów 1B

Attractively located in a lush expanse of leafy parkland, Klonn finds itself planted inside a low-level building just a whisper from Ujazdowski Castle. Dark and slick on the inside, the reverse is true of an exterior dedicated to expressions of street

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Le Braci

art. Yet while a big deal has been made of the visual creativity, it’s the food that leaves the real impact. A harmony of flavors, the hybrid cuisine includes luxury pizzas, hearty beef fillets and sophisticated desserts: it’s all a fantasy of skill.

colors. Proclaiming themselves to be Poland’s first Adriatic restaurant (their words not ours), Munja’s menu is a joyful assembly of meat and fish cooked over flames – for our chosen highlight, order the lamb cevapi or Dinarko mussels.

MIĘSNY

MR. GREEK SOUVLAKI

Already firmly embedded in the hearts of the surrounding community (and beyond), this local butcher shop doubles as a restaurant offering an atavistic joyride through primal, caveman pleasures: if there’s a better chateaubriand being served in Poland then we’ve yet to find it. Set inside a monochrome-floored, white-tiled interior, find it adorned with an azure-colored neon and graphic illustrative wall art depicting tasty farmyard animals.

With its smart navy blue exterior festooned with pot plants, this tiny townhouse seduces all who pass – but if the front terrace is a gem, then enter to find a place that simply bubbles with warmth and the engaging air of gentle chaos. While there’s no frills or fancy with the food, there really doesn’t need to be: you dine on pillowy pittas and skewers of meat while enjoying carafes of wine brought to you by Takis, an enthusiastic owner that wears his heart on his sleeve. By the time the evening closes, you feel like one of the family.

ul. Walecznych 64

MUNJA

ul. Grzybowska 43 & Grzybowska 60 (Browary Warszawskie)

Positioned in the heart of Warsaw’s flourishing new business quarter, both locations have been styled accordingly to slot into their swank surroundings: floor-to-ceiling windows lead into slick interiors that feel high on gloss and polish. But there is warmth as well with light woods and tan leather the dominant

ul. Londyńska 16

WELCOME TO GREECE! For authentic Greek food & hospitality, look no further than Mr. Greek Souvlaki! ul. Londyńska 16 (Saska Kępa)

RUSIKO

Al. Ujazdowskie 22

A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen, and award-winning chef Davit Turkestanishvili the string-pulling master. There’s nowhere else in Poland that does Georgian better.

BEST of WA R S AW 2020

Insider Approved: Best of Warsaw WINNER 2020!

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The Vegan Scene

Astonishing as it sounds, Warsaw is officially rated as one of the most vegan friendly cities on the planet. We’d need a telephone book to list them all, so instead settled for a slimmed down selection of Insider stars…

Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte, and you’ll see why after ordering the ‘hot romantic’.

LOKAL VEGAN BISTRO ul. Krucza 23/31

Aside from a small menu consisting of standard vegan offers, this stalwart keeps Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for ‘junk food’ that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty darn fabulous.

UKI GREEN

ul. Koszykowa 49A

Brought to you by Taira Matsuki, the owner of the outrageously successful Uki Uki, the menu includes alternatives such as kimchi-cheese gyoza dumplings, spiced soy meat and ‘vegan eel’. The real plaudits, however, are reserved for the ramen.

VEGAN RAMEN SHOP

ul. Mokotowska 58

Not only is their kitchen all female, they’ve now sourced some international talent from Peru and India. Ignoring proteins like tempeh, soy or seitan, instead these kitchen heroes conjure magic from seasonal veggies whilst whipping out some Beyond Meat to give oomph to their wontons. The menu changes with the seasons, but for certain we’re hoping their tacos stay for good – substituting meat with oyster mushrooms, their carnitas taste as authentic as they come.

EDAMAME VEGAN SUSHI ul. Wilcza 11

Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-maneuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: pak choy, shiso, avocado, eggplant, oyster mushrooms, asparagus, etc.

KUCHNIA KONFLIKTU

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2022

ul. Wilcza 60

First founded to provide work for refugees fleeing conflict zones, this social project has won acclaim not just for social initiative, but also for its food. With employees hailing from the likes of Iran, Afghanistan, Chechnya and Iraq, prepare to dive deep into the exotic.

LEONARDO VERDE ul. Poznańska 13

Now found in Saska Kępa (a cool venue decorated with ‘levitating shelves’), Mokotów (wall art, bamboo and a giant cat), and Muranów (Street Fighter arcade game and a pink surfboard), their fans head here for what many have described as ‘the best noodles in the world!’ Order the spicy miso ramen and you too will become a convert.

YOUMIKO VEGAN SUSHI ul. Hoża 62

Exceptional in every respect, Youmiko’s tasting menu is one of the undisputed highlights of what’s become known as the vegan square mile. “Our aim,” declares their manifesto, “is to mix traditional Japanese approaches with Polish creativity and surprise you with new textures and flavors.” Mission accomplished.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Peaches Gastro Girls

ul Finlandzka 12 a, ul. Kazimierzowska 43 & Al. Jana Pawła II 52/54

MOYA MATCHA JAPANESE GREEN TEA

ul. Oleandrów 6, moyamatcha.com / fb.com/moyamatchaoleandrow

Special Night Out When second best just won't do, hit up these big guns for a meal to remember...

jellied apple compote; a sweet and boozy pumpkin pottage; razor thin chestnut with marinated celeriac; and bigos like no other. You want to pause the evening for at least forever.

EUROPEJSKI GRILL

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13

Decked out in tan and vanilla shades, hexagonal lighting installations, glinting mirrors and bold, blue ceramics, there’s a character that bridges the classic with the contemporary to magnificent effect. Basque chef Beñat Alonso gives regional suppliers an all-star role, and though the menu has been significantly simplified since the lockdowns, it remains an artistic undertaking never short on surprises.

MUZEALNA

Al. Jerozolimskie 3

ul. Mokotowska 48

Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, the menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes and is admired for some of the most interesting cooking in the city – think elegant with a localized twist. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim, and a shaded courtyard terrace that’s perfect for when it’s not.

DYLETANCI

EPOKA

The epitome of the neo-bistro style, find an attractive space that’s been seamlessly designed to feature a wine store, kitchen and dining room(s) that somehow feel organically joined. The atmosphere is lifted by faultless cooking that combines a little bit of Polish with a little bit of eclectic: it’s a combination that works and often magnificently well.

Preserved 19th century cornices and baroque-style drapes lend an enveloping sense of luxury inside this A-Class space. Epoka’s menu is based on Polish cookbooks from different epochs (hence the name, dummy!), with the dishes reconstructed in a way that’s innovative, unexpected and a roller coaster of thrills. Oh gosh moments include

ul. Rozbrat 44A

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2022

ul. Ossolińskich 3

NOBU

ul. Wilcza 73

Famously founded by Meir Teper, Nobu Matsuhisa and some aspiring actor by the name of Robert De Niro, it’s a space that promises simplicity, elegance and minimalism, not to mention a harmonious sense of modern, zen-like luxury. On the menu, meanwhile, expect their signature squid ‘pasta’; new-style sashimi; and black cod miso as well as killer cocktails such as lychee & elderflower martini.

NOLITA

ul. Wilcza 46

For many diners, there is no bigger

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD PRESS MATERIAL

Ale Wino

Design figures highly. Minimalistic at first sight, this sun-kissed chamber in the nether regions of the National Museum is sprinkled generously with works attributed to some of Poland’s top design pioneers. On the food front, Przemysław Suska, a rising star with the world at his feet, has modernized Polish classics whilst giving international dishes a Polonized spin: step forward the beetroot wellington.

night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t. Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists.

NUTA

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14

Extraordinary in every respect, Nuta is a place where the impossible happens – no surprise given that Andrea Camastra is cooking. Rated among Le Liste’s Top 100 chefs in the world, his cooking is a world class experience that involves dizzying takes on Polish classics as well as a couple of favorites from his previous restaurant, the Michelin starred Senses. Highlights are too numerous to mention, suffice to say this is the best restaurant in Warsaw – and most likely Poland. Enjoy it in an interior that feels sophisticated but never ceremonial. Bookings mandatory.

list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite write-ups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking.

SIGNATURE

ul. Poznańska 15

Flirting with fine dining – yet at prices a notch below – the menu is a succession of highs that are a tribute to the sophisticated palate of chef Wojciech Kilian. Adding to the sense of being somewhere special is a setting inside the former inter-war Soviet Embassy. Adorned

with original, auction-bought photos of Marilyn, pretty pink colors and luxury fittings, Signature washes over you in waves of bliss.

SZÓSTKA

Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa)

Found on the sixth floor of a 1930s tower that was, for a time, ranked Europe’s second tallest building, Szóstka’s fan base is all thanks to Dariusz Barański, a highly skilled chef fond of presenting such dishes as crab meat toast with lime and mango. And there’s the setting, as well: seen as a long, slick space decorated with steel tubing, bursts of greenery and a coved glass ceiling, dining here has been one of the Insider’s great pleasures.

RESTAURACJA WARSZAWSKA

Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa)

Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue. Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go to a golden schnitzel the size of a tricycle wheel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant essence of paprika. It’s exceptional.

ROZBRAT 20 ul. Rozbrat 20

This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine

A HIPSTER GO-TO MOD

ul. Oleandrów 8

Devised by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include ramen noodles in a steamy yuzu broth and Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find a seriously cool vibe inside an interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with the kind of people that you’d mistake for rising fashion photographers.

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Bottoms Up!

Where lie our favorite wine bars and cocktail lounges? Look no further…

here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald. Karim Bibars, the man behind it all, is one Poland’s best-known cocktail kings, and his drinks are the personification of liquid elegance. Opened in Feb, now find Charlie’s little sister inside the Palace of Culture: espousing an air of cinematic cool, it sets itself up for silver screen comparisons – with its bow-tied bartenders and heavy sense of drama, some will draw parallels to The Gold Room in the Overlook Hotel.

CZARNE CZERWONE ZŁOTE ul. Koszykowa 49A

Deeply relaxing in its own quietly fashionable manner, the setting pairs well with a crowd that’s professional, sophisticated and impeccably turned-out. With the name referring to the colors of the German flag, you’d be right to expect a wine list that offers a deep dive into German wines. The menu, too, isn’t to be sniffed out – the wafer thin Flammkuchen are fab.

EL KOKTEL

Warszawa Powiśle ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B

Found in a saucer-shaped building that began life in the 60s as a ticket booth, the retro-inspired Warszawa Powiśle is even better than the cult bar once found here. Polished up, and still touting original features such as power boxes and concrete floors, giant windows and a PRL era neon perched atop of the building, the scene is set for classic cocktails imbibed and enjoyed in a rotunda decorated with vintage tables, velvety poufs, leafy plants and an underlit, marble-topped bar.

BRUSH 2.0

Nowogrodzka 6A

Once darkness falls this on-trend barber shop transforms into a high-energy cocktail den populated by whiskered local scenesters and off-duty models. Mingle alongside them inside an industrial, masculine interior that’s heavy on raw brickwork, exposed steel and all the fixtures and fittings you’d expect in a

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2022

barber’s: from revolving, stripy poles to cabinets full of razors. Incongruous as the overall concept sounds, everything comes together in seamless fashion. ul.

CHARLIE & CHARLIE KINOTEKA

ul. Mokotowska 39 & Pl. Defilad 1

Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic

The pert and pretty are here, so too the well-groomed modern man, but there’s a balance to the crowd that prevents any whiff of snob. As a bar it feels open-minded, engaging and intelligent, and those are traits that rub off on those present. Drinks are insanely good, and served in a small, high-ceilinged interior busy with framed vintage posters, cyan-colored wallpaper, baffling photos of Lynch-esque scenes and gleaming strainers and shakers.

LANE’S GIN BAR

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44

Featuring no shortage of brass, glass, stone and satin, the floaty, peachy-pink ambience is lent further oomph by what we reckon to be the best lux cocktails in the city. Perfectly proportioned, Lane’s is intimate enough to feel like a private members club, and that sense of personalization peaks

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE SHUTTERSTOCK, OPPOSITE PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA

ul. Wojciecha Górskiego 9

when you discreetly enquire about their little black book. Within this secret tome lie recipes scrawled down by the regulars.

LORETA

ul. Widok 9 (Puro Hotel)

Well who doesn’t love a rooftop bar? That’s the setting of Loreta, a bar that channels the spirit of this design-led hotel brand through its funky décor and eclectic art. The terrace, though, is the clincher. As night falls, retreat to a deck signposted by a neon the color of bubblegum pink; here, amid bristling greenery and low-slung seating, join other cocktail hounds enjoying house sips such as the Loreta Cup.

NOLA

ul. Wilcza 43

“In general,” says co-owner Izabela, “we want to present wines we drink ourselves from regions that are interesting and well worth knowing.” In addition to their Spanish, Italian and French collections, find excellent wines from less familiar destinations: Slovenia, Czech, Austria and Georgia.

REGINABAR

ul. Koszykowa 1

Hip and happening, the concept at Reginabar is a wacky amalgam that mixes elements of New York’s Little Italy with China Town next door. The menu rocks, but find it augmented by a dynamic cocktail list that reflects the crazy things happening in Warsaw’s world of drinks: that means, the regular sips

aside, ‘magic cocktails’ with names such as Power Spells and Star Dust. Dazzly and mysterious, lap these up in an interior that joins the retro with the avant garde.

WINNICE MOŁDAWII ul. Czarnieckiego 63A

Set in a 1920s villa that miraculously survived the war, you’ll be visiting for a family-run business specializing in the import of Moldovan, Georgian and Romanian wines. Covering both classics and the latest trends, it’s a portfolio that’s broad in its style and aching to be discovered inside a converted garage attached to the house – wallow in the suburban serenity of their leafy garden.

NOLA: as in New Orleans, Louisiana. Jazz! Hedonism! Etcetera! Almost identical to its predecessor, Koko & Roy, the intimate interior has seen a few nips and tucks – vinyl records, cymbals and some black and white pics added to the walls. Dark and shadowy, its proved popular with the younger expat generation who gather here for drinks that include the Americanized version of Pimm’s and exotic creations with names like Absinth Frappe.

PALOMA INN ul. Poznańska 21

Inspired by The Jetsons, the moon landings and the atom, the Paloma Inn is a childlike joy of lunar lines, pea green colors and furnishings and fittings that are retro-futuristic. Adorned with plants and a curvaceously bizarre ceiling light, your eyes dart all over the place before settling onto a sweepy bar that’s as snaky as the letter ‘s’. Complementing it all, find groovy muzak, fondue sets, weird cocktails and a toilet that stops you in your tracks with its bold mandarin colors.

RAUSZ NA WILCZEJ ul. Wilcza 27

A NEW CULT CLASSIC VHS BAR Poznańska 7

An 80s-themed cocktail bar snuck inside a pocket-sized brick cellar lit with fun, garish neon and pics of the era’s defining legends. Supremely fun, order cocktails named after figures like Cyndi Lauper, Billy Idol and, of course, The Hoff. As for the toilet, find plastic flamingos and pictures of Mr. T!

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Craft Beer

Over 40 craft beer bars thrive in Warsaw, and you’ll find them all listed on the ontap.pl app – below find a few of the best…

to that? Well, the locals preferred their beer. Now looking comfortably rugged and worn-in after nearly nine years of service, this box of a room was arguably the first ‘quali-tap’ in Warsaw. Quali-tap?

JABEERWOCKY

ul. Nowogrodzka 12

Drowned in boisterous babble and general pub racket, the affable Jabbers is home to what most rate as the most adventurous choice of craft beer in the city: pioneering international breweries are well represented, but don’t overlook the sensational drinks from home (inc. their own namesake brewery).

KUFLE I KAPSLE ul. Nowogrodzka 25

Found somewhere round the top of Warsaw’s hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices taking their first steps in the beery world to note-taking nerds conducting research for their blogs. Interiors are respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage and are thick with noise, clamor and the reassuring smell of spillage. The beer selection can be brilliantly radical.

Cuda Na Kiju

PINTA

It all began here! Opened in 2013, find Warsaw’s first legitimate tap bar slotted inside a glass prism hidden in the mega structure that once housed the Communist Party headquarters. Notable for its glass walls, sweeping spiral stairwell and pinball machines, 15 taps keep the guests amused. Though less experimental than other tap bars, Cuda is well-loved by all. And we mean all – in sunnier months, the front terrace and inner courtyard pack out with hundreds of drinkers.

BROWAR WARSZAWSKI ul. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2

When it comes to beer, Browar Warszawski favor tradition over craziness – there’s 18 house beers on tap, and they do a grand job of broadly introducing Poland’s crafty direction. Feeling Feeling reassuringly cosmopolitan, this swanky multi-floor emporium targets itself at a higher-end clientele than

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2022

others, a point reflected by both its prices and design. There’s a strong industrial aesthetic, but this softened by a proliferation of warming touches such as lavishly upholstered seats and tiny antique details. It’s a beauty!

CZEŚĆ

ul. Grzybowska 2

It’s hard to believe now, but Cześć started life as a café. What happened

Find a pared down Scandi design set across two glass-fronted floors round the back of Chmielna. Featuring plenty of concrete and bits of shipping containers, the sparsity of the design keeps your attention on the beer – and it’s brilliant..

SAME KRAFTY

ul. Nowomiejska 10

Squashed into two narrow, rugged rooms decorated with benches and rough plaster walls, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss. Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar lures daring tourists looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. Too busy? Head five meters opposite to Same Krafty Vis-à-vis.

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE BY ED WIGHT, OPPOSITE PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA

ul. Chmielna 7/9

ul. Nowy Świat 6/12

Taste The Exotic

For flavors that go beyond the norm, look to the following to brighten your day…

With Argentine chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche is the default order with the Atun one of the best sellers: chunks of tuna given a rich zing with the addition of chili, lime and roasted coriander. The Japanese influence on South America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with must-haves including the salmon tiraditos. Served with teriyaki and sweet potato mash, it’s a joy of satisfying sensations: sweet, dreamy, spicy, creamy.

GURU

ul. Widok 8

The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the Indian competition out of the water. From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. And when you want to take the nuclear option, sign the disclaimer before being flattened by the phaal – it’s Poland’s hottest curry!

Japonka

ul. Grzybowska 56

Omakase refers to the Japanese tradition of putting your life in the hands of the chef in front. Given carte blanche by the punter, it falls to head chef Dawid Uszyński to create magic based on intuition and product availability – this he does inside a vibey interior featuring a magenta neon, terrazzo floors and an intricate cat’s cradle of bold red shelving. This place lives in ‘the now’!

BASIL & LIME ul. Oboźna 9

One of only a handful of Thai restaurants in Poland to be certified by the international Thai Select organization, Basil & Lime are back after being forced to close their original Mokotow venue. Complete with a beautifully shaded pavement terrace, you can’t help but suspect the move has worked in their favor. Opening themselves to an entirely new audience in the center, this cult venue looks set to last on account

of the skilled cooking of Thanawat Na Nagara.

BOLLYWOOD LOUNGE ul. Nowy Świat 58

Known for their raucous dusk-tilldawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead.

CEVICHE BAR ul. Twarda 4

JOEL SHARING CONCEPT ul. Koszykowa 1

Joel Sharing Concept seeks to channel the atmosphere and tastes typically found in the food markets and bazaars of contemporary Tel Aviv. As such, find yourself ordering from a small galaxy of bites that range from pittas stuffed with beef and lamb kofta to mezze dishes such as baked beetroot served with stewed tomatoes, cranberries and cumin.

LE CEDRE

Al. Solidarności 61 & 84

With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise,

warsawinsider.pl

just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops.

KARMA

ul. Nowolipki 14 (enter from Jana Pawła II)

Though a little drab inside, the curry is a contender for the Insider’s favorite of 2021. Outside the more generic items, Southern Indian cuisine is a specialty, and that’s affirmed by golden donutshaped wada snacks, idli lentil rolls, fluffy uttapam pancakes and the altogether thinner dosa.

PAŃSKA 85 ul. Pańska 85

Despite the over-the-top luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2022

Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight.

THE COOL CAT ul. Solec 38

(also on Marszałkowska 8) Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forward-thinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food (the matcha ice cream donut is insane in both idea and taste!). The cocktails are equally eccentric yet also reveal some devastating talent.

K-BAR

ul. Piękna 28/34

Co-owner Czesio has injected his life, soul (or is that Seoul?) and

personal artistic journey into K-Bar, not least via his DJing background – no matter when you may visit, there’s something of a party feeling. Like being buzzed into an artist’s loft apartment, its packed with neon, flea market finds and Korean groceries. The KFC (Korean Fried Chicken) will satisfy desires for something sweet, spicy and fried. For a healthier option, K-Bar’s Vegan Bibimbab are nothing short of bliss.

UKI UKI

ul. Krucza 23/31

How much do locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out udon noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming.

HIDING TO SURVIVE

ALL PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

A thought-provoking exhibition reveals how Jews hid during WWII…

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t goes without saying that Poland knows a thing or two about war. To this day, evidence of the last conflict can be seen easily at every footstep: from bullet scars on buildings to estates set on war rubble via the almost uncountable number of markers and memorials. But there is also more, a side that is less visible, a side found in the attics, cellars, caves, trees and even tombs that were used during the Holocaust as secretive hiding holes. It is these that are the subject of the current exhibition at the Zachęta Gallery. Based on research conducted by Natalia Romik and Aleksandra Janus together with a team of anthropologists, historians, archaeologists and urban explorers, Romik’s project is a tribute to the daily hardships endured by those that hid and those that helped them. Together, these groups are often overlooked in our quest to find heroes and leaders, yet it is those unnamed individuals that arguably do the most illustrate the humanity and solidarity of those times. Simultaneously, this exhibition rises to the problem of commemorating ‘invisible architecture’ whilst also presenting models that connote places of seclusion. These can also be read in a broader existential perspective, for instance as being illustrative of the tragedies faced by refugees and those that give them shelter. On prominent display as you enter, view a cast of a 650-yearold oak tree that provided safety for two brothers during the war; one of nine hideouts that have been molded before being cast

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2022

and covered in silver, these objects are presented in the manner of striking modern art that causes visitors to pause and consider both the ingenuity of those that hid, as well as the wickedness of their situation. The dichotomy of this exhibition is balanced between these wonderful casts and information about each which include photos, maps, and video testimonials from living witnesses. Interestingly, five of the hideouts shown were found in Ukraine, and they lend another angle as one considers the atrocities currently being committed. The gallery will also offer walks to the Jewish Cemetery where an existing hideout still remains unchanged from eighty-years ago.

It is estimated that during the Second World War, in occupied Poland, about 50,000 Jews survived by hiding on the Aryan side. In total, about 250,000–350,000 Jews survived the war — about 10 percent of the Jewish population of pre-war Poland.

Zachęta Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl

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THE ROYAL TREATMENT Apartments of Prince Józef Poniatowski in The Tin-Roofed Palace

rince Józef Poniatowski (1763-1813) was the nephew of the last king of Poland, Stanislaus Augustus Poniatowski. He was called "Pepi" from childhood until death, which term of endearment was used by the king, family and the whole nation. Already as a teenager, he was a passionate cavalryman who would don a uniform of the Crown Horse Guard. As a youth he became famous in social salons for his entertainment lifestyle. He would frequently be seen rushing through the streets of Warsaw driving a two-wheeled cart, so-called "convertible", at times harnessed to as many as eight horses. Prince Józef Poniatowski was the object of attention of the fair sex from aristocratic and bourgeois circles, and he often exploited his glamour. He established an infor-

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2022

mal club of young Warsaw-based aristocrats in The Tin-Roofed Palace and in his second, summer palace in Jabłonna. Tennis was the prince's favourite sport and billiards was his preferred social pastime. Pepi loved spinach, which was served to him every day. Green was one of his favourite colours, used both in interiors and in his clothes. He received The Tin-Roofed Palace from his uncle, King Stanislaus Augustus, on 13 December 1794. In 1789 he moved in there with his sister Maria Teresa Tyszkiewicz, née Poniatowska, and his friend, Countess Henrietta de Vauban, a French émigré who did the honours of the housewife of the palace. The prince's sister occupied some of the rooms on the ground floor of the palace, while Ms de Vauban had her own apartment in the garden pavilion adjacent to the south wing. After 1798,

Photographs above left: Kancelaria Wojenna (War Office), right: Kancelaria Sztabowa (Headquarters Office). All photographs courtesy of The Royal Castle in Warsaw

the palace became the main salon of Warsaw and was used for sumptuous parties, balls and theatre performances. After the Napoleonic army entered Warsaw, in 1807 Prince Józef was appointed Minister of War and Commander-in-Chief of the Polish Armed Forces of the Duchy of Warsaw. From that time on, the interiors of the palace (including its annexes), apart from residential functions, housed the War Office employing 140 military officials, an armoury and the first intelligence office in Poland. In the defensive war of 1809, the prince successfully used a bold plan to strike at the back of the Austrian army. He became famous for his bravado bayonet attack, a pipe in his mouth, in the battle of Raszyn in the foreground of Warsaw. Józef Poniatowski was an extremely modest, demanding and honourable commander. He set out for the Russian campaign in 1812 with only one wagon of rolling stock, while other generals owned many more of them. During bivouacs he ate on plates made of "English sheet metal". His horseback inspections of the camp and the troops started as early as 3 am. In the military campaign he was accompanied by 36 horses. "Worshipped" by soldiers and officers, as well as veterans, whom he received on many occasions in the palace, after 1812 he spent his salary on a pension for the Moscow campaign veterans. It was in the courtyard of The Tin-Roofed Palace that after the Moscow campaign in December 1812 the remainder of the Polish corps presented to the prince the saved banners of the Polish army. Prince Joseph commanded the Polish army in the victorious battles of Zieleńce (18 June 1792),

Raszyn (19 April 1809), Smolensk (16-18 August 1812), Borodino (5-7 September 1812), and Vinkovo (18 October 1812). As the commander-in-chief of the 8th corps of the Grand Army, he led his soldiers in 1813 via Saxony, defending a range of Bohemian mountains and fighting on the left-hand bank of the Elbe. He maintained his positions despite the advance of overpowering enemy troops at Löbau (9 September 1813), led a cavalry charge and took captive hundreds of enemy soldiers at Zedtlitz (10 October 1813). He was the only foreigner to be appointed by Napoleon Marshal of France (16 October 1813). Shielding the retreat of the French army on 19 October 1813, he died in the Battle of the Nations at Leipzig. The Tin-Roofed Palace was not ruined during the Second World War and retained its original walls; the bombardment destroyed only the ceilings. During the renovation carried out in 2005-2008, a ceremonial staircase leading from the ground floor to the first floor was reinstalled in the building. It was on the first floor that Prince Józef's apartment was restored in its former location and layout. Brought to you by

zamek-krolewski.pl

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Rising Museum

buses (so-named on account of their gherkin-style shape). These are expected to run from 6.30 p.m. till 2 a.m.

Held in virtual format for the last two years, May sees the return of one of the city’s most-loved cultural extravaganzas: the Night of Museums… BACKGROUND Celebrating its 18th edition, Night of Museums has grown from a minor event (the first edition saw 16,000 people file through eleven venues) to a mighty juggernaut attracting well in excess of 200,000 people. What is it? In essence, on the evening of May 14th you’ll find scores of museums, galleries and institutions flinging their doors open to the public and laying on a feast of nighttime attractions, reenactments and performances to add a twist to the usual experience. With the last proper installment featuring in excess of 230 venues, this year is expected to rival it in size. WHAT’S ON While most venues had yet to

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2022

reveal their plans at press time, keep an eye out for the comprehensive guidebook published by City Hall in the days leading up to NoM. Available in print (47,000 Polish-language copies, 4,000 English-language copies) and online in PDF format (check for updates on: um.warszawa.pl), this essential booklet lists all participating venues and associated events. Its scope is mind-boggling – miss it at your peril.

TAKE PART It’s widely expected that, as in previous years, culture vultures will be able to take part in a game that will challenge their ‘knowledge, speed and dexterity’. Aside from answering questions and fulfilling various tasks, visitors will be battling against each other to visit as many museums as possible in the allotted time. So far, the record stands at 19 museums in five hours.

GETTING ABOUT As per tradition, the city will be bringing out a fleet of vintage vehicles from retirement and lay on a range of free transport options enabling you to zip from place-toplace in retro style. Expect historic trams to be rolled-out, as well as antiquated Ikarus and Ogórek

BE PREPARED Imagine queueing for an hour only to be told you’re not getting in because you haven’t got ID: well, it has happened! A number of the more secretive institutions (among them, the Filtry Waterworks) require visitors to provide photographic ID.

PHOTOGRAPH SHUTTERSTOCK

SPOTLIGHT: NIGHT AT THE MUSEUM

STRATEGY No matter where you go, expect crowds. If you don’t fancy being caught in ever stretching queues then use the opportunity to visit Warsaw’s lesser-known museums – frequently, it’s these unsung gems that prove to be the biggest surprise. Further, use the booklet produced by City Hall to your advantage to check out opening times. If you’re visiting the capital’s star attractions, then you’re often better off saving them till last when the visiting hordes have dwindled. The real stars though are one-off attractions usually closed to the public: places like the Mayor’s office, embassies, the waterworks, TV and radio stations, secret bunkers, etc.

learning preschools AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics. Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact

admissions@aswarsaw.org

WILANOW

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF

A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW PRESCHOOL

Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53,

tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

CASA DEI BAMBINI & TODDLER SCHOOL

(multiple locations) Casa dei Bambini and Toddler School have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 12 months to 6 years of age.

ul. Badowska 19, ul. Tatrzańska 5a (Mokotów), ul. Szkolna 16, (Izabelin), tel. 692 099 134, wmf.edu.pl

warsaw montessori family

Warsaw Montessori Schools

Accepting applications for our programs and locations: Infant & Toddler Tatrzańska 5a Badowska 19

Casa dei Bambini Badowska 19 Szkolna 16, Hornówek

Elementary Szwoleżerów 4

„Erdkinder” Middle School THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW – EARLY YEARS CENTRE

Our Early Years Foundation Stage provides a play-based learning curriculum full of curiosity, wonder and discovery – the perfect springboard into Primary education. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84, tel. 22

646 77 77, thebritishschool.pl

THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Tatrzańska 5a

Montessori High School

Pytlasińskiego 13a Contact Office: 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

www.wmf.edu.pl

reklama montessori 1/3_46x206.indd 1

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Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637), ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl

THE ENGLISH PLAYHOUSE

The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email:

jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com

ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

MAPLE TREE MONTESSORI

Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A

(entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

ADMISSIONS OPEN EARLY YEARS, PRIMARY, SECONDARY & IB admissions@thebritishschool.pl (0048) 22 842 32 81 ext. 125

thebritishschool.pl

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2022

MONTESSORI STEPPING STONES

An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel.

728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

schools

AKADEMEIA HIGH SCHOOL

Akademeia High School is an academically selective international school in Warsaw, offering iGCSEs and A Levels whilst preparing students for the best universities in the world. The staff body consists of alumni of the world’s best universities, whilst facilities at what has become Poland’s most prestigious school include an art studio, auditorium, sports hall and roof garden. ul.

Ledóchowskiej 2, akademeia.edu.pl

AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

With over 50 nationalities, ASW has been welcoming students from around the world since 1953. As an IB Continuum school, our students follow the PYP, MYP and DP throughout their learner journey. These programmes develop

inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who are motivated to succeed. They are inspired by our highly qualified and international teaching staff. Students graduate with either the IB diploma or an American high school diploma. All programs are conducted in English, with integrated EAL support for non-native speakers. Contact:

admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00, ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), aswarsaw.org

WILANOW

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF

THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW

Delivering an inclusive, rigorous and high-quality British education in a diverse and caring environment, mission of TBS is to balance academic success with character building and well-being. Students at The British School Warsaw learn an internationally respected curriculum, based on the best of British academics. They take pride in their excellent results at both International Baccalaureate Diploma Programme (IBDP) and IGCSE level, which are well above the global average. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

THE ENGLISH PRIMARY

The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but

SATURDAYS AT SYTA Mini music club for children 1-5 years old, lots of arts, crafts and sensory play. Saturdays 10 a.m. till noon at Syta 78.

Cost – 20zł for registration scan here email: ikedziorek@tep.edu.pl, +48 576 181 515

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in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784

037 808, tep.edu.pl

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW INTERNATIONAL ELEMENTARY AND MIDDLE SCHOOL

Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692

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411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@ canadian-school.pl or secretary. olimpijska@canadian-school.pl

THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Established in 1994, The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637),

ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl

JOY PRIMARY SCHOOL

Treating pupils with mutual respect but not at

the expense of being demanding, the methods used are hard on the problem but soft on the person. Taking into account what students think, feel, learn and want for themselves and their world, Joy Primary teaches important life skills as well as respect, care for others, problem solving and co-operation. Here, children are challenged to discover their abilities and competences, while encouraged to explore personal strength and autonomy. ul. Syta 131A, tel. 722

305 333, sekretariat@joyprimaryschool.pl

MONNET INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI SCHOOL

A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classroom provided. Located just steps from Łazienki Park the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420, wmf.edu.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI MIDDLE SCHOOL

Guided by trained specialists, students are responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well

as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet real life challenges. ul. Tatrzańska 5A

shopping experiences ARKADIA

(grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826, wmf.edu.pl

Not many Polish malls do it better. Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg.

WARSAW MONTESSORI HIGH SCHOOL

GALERIA MOKOTÓW

Warsaw Montessori High School aims to teach students the values which Maria Montessori outlined in her educational philosophy such as: responsibility for one’s own development, care for others, honesty, empathy, and service. The school continues to meet the principles of Maria Montessori through implementing the IB Diploma Program principles and practices. Warsaw Montessori High School is an authorized IB World School for the Diploma Programme – code 061201. ul.

Pytlasińskiego 13A, tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

Al. Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl

Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul.

Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl

KLIF HOUSE OF FASHION

Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

ZŁOTE TARASY

Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. ul. Złota 59,

zlotetarasy.pl

Accepting applications for Nursery to Year 9 bsw.com.pl +48 221 110 062 ul. Hlonda 12, Warsaw admissions@bswilanow.org

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THE MAGNIFICENT SEVEN!

Warsaw’s rich history and cultural significance has left it with no shortage of museums to visit. Offering a well-rounded view of the city’s past and present, these are the seven you just shouldn’t miss… FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM

The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are captivating (his death mask, gifts from his muse, etc.), but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.

museum

MUSEUM OF LIFE UNDER COMMUNISM

A deeply personal insight into the former system by allowing visitors to view what Communism meant to the everyday person. Here, rifle and

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2022

rummage through a room mockedup to resemble a typical household apartment, watch propaganda films, peer inside a phone box, paw at vintage keep-fit gear or covet the ladies fashions of the time. Detailed in its captions, witty in its presentation and comprehensive in its content, it is a place where normal items such as aftershave bottles, postcards, clothing and crude household appliances are allowed to shine on a totem and tell their own story. A haven of trinkets and collectibles, its small size belies its utter magic. ul.

Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl

MUSEUM OF WARSAW

Reprised as a maze-like treasure filled trove glimmering with

curiosities, thousands of objects have been gathered here to detail the story of Warsaw in a non-linear style that can at times feel overwhelming. Peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art all combine with a mass of trivia to leave visitors boggled with knowledge. The vertiginous views of the Rynek below are worth the admission alone. Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42,

muzeumwarszawy.pl

NATIONAL MUSEUM

Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars.

That’s reason enough for many, but for others the museum’s ace card was revealed at the end of 2017 with the opening of the Gallery of Polish Design. Offering a full 360 view of Polish 20th century applied arts, it’s an aesthetic joy featuring everything from iconic PRL era wall units and tulip chairs to kitschy toys and gizmos. Frankly, it’s a stunning museum that just keeps getting better – though delayed by covid, the start of the year saw the world class Gallery of Ancient Art added to the mix. Featuring 1,800 ancient relics, papyrus scrolls, Iranian golden masks and even an Egyptian mummy! Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl

NEON MUSEUM

Playing a key role in the government’s attempts to fuse socialist ideology with consumerism, the campaign to ‘neon-ize’ Poland saw gloomy cities still bearing the scars of war boldly gleam once more under lights designed and produced by many of the leading

artisans of the time. Salvaged from the scrapheap (in many instances, literally), this museum was created by Ilona Karwinska and David Hill who inadvertently kickstarted a nationwide trend and reignited the country’s appetite for neon. Housing several dozen neons that once lit up Poland, these renovated signs make for Warsaw’s coolest attraction: Instagram them now! ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

POLIN

Composed of eight galleries, this architectural marvel covers different stages of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. That it was named the European Museum of the Year in 2016 such much for its ambitions to focus on more than the Holocaust alone. ul.

Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

THE WARSAW RISING MUSEUM

If the throngs and sheer informational overload can often be daunting, it remains the most important museum in the capital, and quite arguably the country. Points of interest are rife and include a life-size replica of a B-24 Liberator plane as well as a claustrophobic ‘sewage tunnel’ through which visitors squeeze to get an idea of the kind of conditions combatants once faced. But it’s not the A-list sights that make the biggest impact, rather the smaller, highly personal curios: a pair of wedding bands forged from bullets; an Omega watch, it’s hands frozen at the same moment a bomb killed its owner; and a lucky cuddly mascot made from a German overcoat. Of course, the aftermath is also covered in heartrending detail and concludes with a 3D film that takes viewers swooping over the smoldering ruins of the capital. ul. Grzybowska

79, 1944.pl

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4 9 km

Praga Zoo

10 ki aw

Powązki Cemetery

Andersa

7 Jewish Cemetery

6 Old Town

2 ska kow

szał Mar

ska bow

Grzy

4 a zysk tokr Swie

Pros

skie

olim eroz

Palace of Culture & Science

Al. J

Łazienki Park

1 19 km

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3 4 km

MAP 5

shopping exeriences National Stadium

Designer Outlet Warszawa ul. Puławska 42E, designeroutletwarszawa.pl 2

Elektrownia Powiśle ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com 3

Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl 4

Galeria Północna ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl 5

Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl 6

Koneser Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl 8

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

Vitkac ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl 10

Westfield Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, pl.westfield.com/arkadia 11

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

museums 1

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl.pl

The Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl 3

Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl 4

Fryderyk Chopin Museum ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum 5

Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org 6

Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 2842, muzeumwarszawy.pl 7

POLIN ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

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EVENTS Residency 2022: Tough Love

Year round @ Komuna Warszawa, ul. Emilii Plater 31 Based inside a former school building, KOMUNA WARSZAWA is an art collective focused on the performative arts. Exploring theater in the broadest meaning of the word, this is the place to visit for original, auteur productions and independent “off-Broadway”-type shows. The space also offers artist residencies with a proposed theme for creative expression. This year’s point of reference – Tough Love curated by Anna Smolar – deals with a feeling well-known to all. For more: komuna.warszawa.pl

Şerban Savu: Dialogi

Until 14 May @ Dawid Radziszewski Gallery, ul. Kolejowa 47A/U13 Born in the 1970s, Şerban Savu is one of the most important Romanian artists of his generation. This is the third exhibition of his works at the gallery. Previously true to reality, the artist’s recent works are more fantastical, full of peculiar encounters between humans and imagined creatures. A commentary on our deepest needs and worries, Savu’s works are a reflection of the viewer’s own uncertainties.For

more: dawidradziszewski.com/pl/ serban-savu

Warsaw Insider | MAY 2022

Inner Edge by Dominika Kowynia

Until 07 May @ Import Export, Al. Ujazdowskie 22 Polish artist Dominika Kowynia was educated at the Academy of Fine Arts in Katowice. Primarily a figurative oil painter, her works are often bright, definitive in tone and sharply constructed. Using the literary works of prominent female authors such as Virginia Woolf or Margaret Atwood as her source of inspiration, Kowynia offers a critical view of contemporary events. This exhibit is a showcase of eight paintings selected by the artist. Created over the past 18-months, the works are a response to the aftermath of events surrounding the proposed near total ban on abortion in Poland in October 2020.

MODERN ART MIX By Krystyna Spark

(O)powieść bez końca: Maria Stangret Kantor

Until 28 May @ HOS Gallery, ul. Dzielna 5 Maria Stangret-Kantor (1929 – 2020) spent 30-years between 1960 and 1990 acting in the productions of the world-renowned avant-garde Cricot 2 Theater. Despite this, her own artistic trajectory always remained independent. The works presented in HOS Gallery seem to reference a school classroom – a lined notebook, measuring tape, broken pieces of white chalk – yet their scale is larger-than-lif, becoming “monumental statues that shift the viewer’s attention from their aesthetic value to the sheer act of their creation, understood not so much artisanally as conceptually”. For more: hosgallery.pl/opowiesc-bez-konca

WARSAW'S BIGGEST For Warsaw at its best, visit us at Hala Gwardii for good vibes, the city's top food market, international street food tastes, traditional Polish products and a busy list of events aimed at young and old alike – winter doesn’t have to be boring! For more, see: www.facebook.com/halagwardii

BUZZ Open Friday through Sunday Plac Żelaznej Bramy halagwardii.pl

Warsaw Insider May 2022 #309

Articles inside

Exploring ul. Lwowska

Mexican standoff