Vat ra
M ag az i n e
W W W. VAT R A M AG . C OM
editors Tijana lilic and Danielle Edwards fashion writter louise ashley
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS/ JUS VUN, JOSE FERREIRA, ANTONIO GUZZARDO, MARJOLEIN AUDREY BANIS, KHRYSALISKID, TIJANA LILIC, CALIN ANDREESCU, CARMEN ROSE, DARREN TIESTE.
editor’s LETTER As we come to the end of 2014 we thought we would finish with blue! Blue jeans, blue sky, blue mood. As it is the season for celebration we would like to announce that this is our 10th issue!
COVER
PRYZMAT OBIEKTYWIZMU
©2014 VATRA MAGAZINE ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED IN WHOLE OR PART WITHOUT PERMISSION FROM THE PUBLISHERS. THE VIEWS EXPRESSED IN VATRA ARE THOSE OF THE CONTRIBUTERS AND ARE NOT NECESSARILY SHARED BY THE PUBLISHERS. THE MAGAZINE WELCOMES NEW IDEAS AND CONTRIBUTORS BUT CAN NOT ASSUME RESPONSIBILITY FOR UNSOLICITED WORDS, PHOTOGRAPHS OR ILLUSTRATIONS.
FASHION 06. SILANCE Jus Vun 18. DISTURBIA Jose Ferreira 24. THE FISHER KING Antonio Guzzardo 32. RAINBOW WARRIOR Marjolein Audrey Banis 40. SKY HIGH Khrysaliskid 48. ARCANE Tijana Lilic 60. HEAT CHANGE Calin Andreescu 70. PASTEL PLAY Carmen Rose 76. SIREN Darren Tieste
Features 26. 33 POETS 54. TELSTRA PERTH FASHION FESTIVAL 66. CHLOE EDEN-EWEN
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ON HER BACKGROUND...
“I studied painting and drawing at Curtin. I did textiles photography as a minor and I knew about clothing because my mum was a sawer, my grandmother was an alterer and apparently my great grandmother was something like that too.... and my great great grandmother sawed for the queen, which im not really that proud of. So I ended up making clothing because it felt like a boys club contemporary practice of painting so I decided that I didn’t feel like I was going to be able to make it in that world and I opened a shop with some friends. I’ve always been really intrigued and influenced by counter cultures. When I was in high school I didn’t really like hippie that much, but I listened to a lot of music, I liked the music but I didn’t realy get off on that clothing much. I really liked Hendricks... I’ve always listened to a lot of music and then when punk happened I was just so relieved, because it meant that you didn’t have to act peaceful and you could just do whatever you wanted to do... I don’t mean that you could punch anybody out but as a woman it was really affirming that you could wear whatever you wanted and you could be a lil’ bit aggressive and you could be a bit confrontational and you could have a stand on something, it allowed you that.
And I really liked the music, I liked that it was punching back at the parent culture and all the understanding how the parent culture is... manipulates everything for money... not that that’s completely wrong but I enjoy and sympathasize with counter cultures that are trying to move beyond just the dollar. That’s what punk was doing and the music was very political and made a stand. It felt to me that punk, its clothing and its music was doing more than what art was doing at that time too. So it really influenced me a lot! Girls could wear boots with fish nets and could mess it up and you were not called a slut for it, that had not really happened before. So as a designer, Im probably more like a thinking designer. In the beginning I wasn’t trained to look at looks, I wasn’t trained to look at forecasters, because Ive come from painting, so all my training was to question and to understand. They were modernest theories that I was trained by, you know composition and colour that kind of stuff , not that at design schools they don’t do that, cause I thought at UTS and other fashion schools, so not that theyre not trained at that but its not as indepth as my kind of training. What they get trained to do is to look at forecasters, so im really greatful that I had the training that I had, as opposed to Australian designs school.
Images DAVID COLLINS 6 VATRA
Im pretty sure that St. Martins in London where I’d love to do my Phd... I suspect that just because of the work that comes out of there that they would be trained a bit more in depth, more thinking training as opposed to, for instance, at mediocre design school which is an ‘OK’ thing but this would be predominant… you know you are going to be a designer for Diesel so what you have to do is research the brief and what pieces and what collection would you make for diesel and blah di blah blah... So that means you’re not really looking at your own work youre looking at fashion and then placing your self as a vehecle to regurgitate as opposed to doing your own work like an inner journey its more of an outer journey. A lot of fashion schools don’t teach that inner journey and a lot of fashion designers don’t do that in Australia. For instance, Topshop and Zara have just come here, they would have designers that are very good at looking outward at what the designers that look inward do and then reproduce, that’s a skill. It a skill. Its not a skill that I want and its not a skill that I have because sometimes when youre desperate for money you know you think that would be a good skill to have. I actually don’t have that skill, I trained my self even after art school so much to look inward and to be more like an artist that I have trained it out of me, I cant do it. So I think that being trained in an art school way is really pivotal, punk was really pivotal. Conceptual art and performace art was happening when I was at art school so we were looking at things like that how does that relate back to counter culture music for me and how influencial is this kind of stuff on contemporary culture. What has the past given to contemporary culture. I think about those things a lot. I still think about those things constantly maybe not as intensely as I used to because the economic market is so bad that a really good idea which could have been viable commercially for me may not get anywhere at the moment. So its kind of tricky because of the economic market but in the past, particularly the 80’s when I first started to work, it was great because people were really open like punk and the music at the time was happening at a really rapid rate. There were some interesting underground rappers that were just fantastic, like Rasta, all that kind of stuff, it was very very fertile ground for visual artists. Wheather they were photographers or fashion designers like me that come from looking inward. It’s not to say that punk wasn’t ripped off, it was. It has its resurrgence, but im completely fine with me riding that resurrgance because my original work came out of that. For instance, you’ve got ripped jeans at the moment and the origins of that were from punk, so im completely happy with still ripping up jeans because that’s authentic for me, now another designer I might not think is authentic for but you know makes money at the moment. “
ON HER ARTISTIC STYLE... “I think im looking at punk and still this kind of ripped up stuff but im placing it back with romance. And i really love what ROMANCE WAS BORN get up to, I really love that they did that thinking of the name. I don’t think that name relates to my work at all but I think that’s an exciting label. Just that they did that name is enough for me to feel that theyre really credible. Lately I think ive been placing... smashing punk into some romantic pieces, so you’ve got the sequence then you got the ripped stockings then you got some text. I love to play with contradictions always! That’s probably come more out of art school and Dada. I think Duchamp is amazing. Duchamp’s thinking really impacted on me at a similar time and that kind of play but serious aspect to Dada. I think Im playing with punk now and im throwing it as a visual image against something that’s highly romantic, and quite what would be perceived as being quite feminine and just seeing what that does. Im kind of enjoying doing that at the moment. Theres not a lot of money in it haha.
Telstra Perth Fashion Festival 2014.
“The pieces that I really like on the runway... the one image I really like is of Simone Kerr, the ripped stockings with big holes and then I got the little dot shibori on that 20’s beaded dress. I am really happy with that, and it came about through chaos, I work with chaos a lot…like something would be on the floor and then ill see something ripped up or you know my next thing will be to really shred a pair of jeans and then put it back with…and I know other designers are doing it but im trying to do it in my way I suppose and I haven’t stolen that it evolved with me. With chiffon, beading and shibori. Its also jumping around the world becase shibori comes from Japan and that blue black that I use, indicated indigo, which they use a lot. Then all the beading work is done in India but the way that im beading is done in kind of like a 1920’s way, so to see something like that with riped up jeans is kind of my next thing that I wanna do.”
Images Tijana Lilic
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PHOTOGRAPHER: JUS VUN | www.jusvun.com STYLIST & DIRECTION : MAKOTO WASHIZU MAKEUP: YOUHEI ARIKAWA HAIR STYLIST: SHINYA FUKAMI MODELS: NANA
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 Dress LANVIN
ďżź This page: Dress BOTTEGA VENETA Opposite page: Dress & boots LANVIN
Coat & boots BOTTEGA VENETA
This page: Jacket REGULATION YOHJI YAMAMOTO, skirt YOHJI YAMAMOTO +NOIR Opposite page: Knit & skirt YOHJI YAMAMOTO, hat YOHJI YAMAMOTO +NOIR
Cape/coat JUST CAVALLI, skirt HENRY MAURICIO, shoes ZARA, sunglasses LINDA FARROW/KTZ.
PHOTOGRAPHER: JOSE FERREIRA | www.joseferreira-photographer.com STYLIST : HENRY MAURICIO MAKEUP: MARIANGELA PALATINI HAIR STYLIST: SARA CATARINA FONSECA MODELS: MAGDALENA ROBAK@ L’AGENCE
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This page: Jumpsuit JUSTCAVALLI, bracelets ISTANBUL TRADITIONAL, shoes ZARA. Opposite page: Dress JUSTCAVALLI, coat DOLCE & GABBANA, necklace BIMBA E LOLA.
This page: Shirt pants & hat BIMBA E LOLA, jewelry GLOBE. Opposite page: Fur coat & skirt BIMBA E LOLA, shoes ZARA.
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PHOTOGRAPHER: ANTONIO GUZZARDO | www.patbombard.com PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT: FRANCESCO ORMANDO STYLIST : VALERIA GAETANO MAKEUP: MARIANGELA PALATINI HAIR STYLIST: VINCENZO PANICO MODELS: GABRIELE@ZOE MODELS
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Coat NICOLA BONASIA, pants ARMY OF ME shoes MOMA.
This page: Jersey ZARA, slip CALVIN KLEIN. Opposite page: Tank ARMY OF ME, jacket VINTAGEC, parka H&M, jeans DIESEL, necklace REMINESCENCE.
Trench BESHKA, sweater VINTAGEC, trousers ARMY OF ME, shoes MOMA.
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This page: Coat NICOLA BONASIA pants ARMY OF ME, shoes MOMA. Opposite page: Trench H&M, jersey & pants NICOLA BONASIA.
Shoulder piece BERRY RUIJSCH.
Rainbow warrior 42 VATRA
PHOTOGRAPHER: MARJOLEIN AUDREY BANIS STYLIST: MANON BAKKER STYLIST’S ASSISTANT: SANNE FRICH MAKEUP & HAIR STYLIST: BERRY RUIJSCH MODEL: GREET VAN DER VEEN@FIGARO MMGT
This page: Dress & hat FRANK E HOLLYWOOD.
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Opposite page: Dress DENISE VAN GENT.
This page: Top ALINA DOT. Opposite page: Dress DENISE VAN GENT.
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This page: Shoulder piece BERRY RUIJSCH, top & skirt ALINA DOT. Opposite page: Dress FRANK E HOLLYWOOD.
PHOTOGRAPHER: KHRYSALISKID STYLIST: KHRYSALISKID MAKEUP & HAIR STYLIST: STEPHANIE CAINERO@DEBUT MANAGEMENT MODELS: LILY CONNORS@DEBUT MANAGEMENT
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Ear cuff, KHRYSALISKID, jumper STYLIST OWN.
This page: Shirt, bone antler, customized shoes KHRYSALISKID, foil tee ASOS, briefs BONDS, knee highs AMERICAN APPAREL. Opposite page: Skirt MAT LEE, top models own, neck piece, KHRYSALISKID.
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This page: Jacket ONICHA SAWASDEE, bodysuit MAT LEE, knee highs, AMERICAN APPAREL, customised shoes & head piece KHRYSALISKID. Opposite page: Foil top stylist own, shorts CASSANDRA GRACE, POMPOM customised shoes & ear cuff KHRYSALISKID.
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This page: Silk gown & shorts CASSANDRA GRACE. jumper stylists own, ear cuff KHRYSALISKID. Opposite page: Jacket MAT LEE, shorts CASSANDRA GRACE, knee highs AMERICAN APPAREL.
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‘Romeo’ ear cuff AMBER SCREATS.
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PHOTOGRAPHER: TIJANA LILIC | www.tijanalilicphotography.com STYLIST: HOLLY REEDMAN STYLIST ASSISTANT: ALEX SHAW MAKEUP & HAIR STYLIST: CHANTAL LEE MODEL: CLAUDIA@CHADWICK ASSISTANT: ROBERT MCPHILOMEY
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This page: Asymetric shorts - CITIZENS OF ARCANE, skirt, jacket & belt AURELLIO COSTARELLA, necklace & earcuff AMBER SCEATS. Opposite page: Sleeves ZHIVAGO, bodysuit & armour Citizens OF ARCANE, earrings and necklace 8 OTHER REASONS, ring AMBER SCEATS.
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This page: Jacket JONTE, skirt ZHIVAGO, bra BARDOT, earrings & braclete 8 OTHER REASONS, necklace GOLD BAR, acrylic CITIZENS OF ARCANE. Opposite page: Gown ZHIVAGO, ear cuff 8 OTHER REASONS, acrylic CITIZENS OF ARCANE
telstra Perth
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fashion festival
The telstra perth fashion festival has become Western anAustrlia’s larg ues, new designers showcasing and ven new h Wit . was it l tiva Fes n hio event of the Year. Feautring exciting new and established designers. What a year for Telstra Perth Fas ber. rememflocked to one be will lly rea it ht nig ionists to witness this exciting fashion event. The annual sho International opening bought the most successful designers, models, bloggers win- and creative Michael Cinco along with local award and n awa Gun an asti Seb ers ign des for the biggest week of fashion. ht of Beyond Internationally renowned standards high with their opening nig the set i lkem Ae’ from dez nan Fer st in ning designer Alv to show in what is considered the mo ting wan ers ign des al tion rna Inte Continuing the celebration of momentous Australian lode. fashion, a grou Imagination. When you have big ion in Western Australia is going to exp fash of re futu the w kno just you rld turing WA and Australian designers renowned for their show-stoppin isolated city in the wo will grace the runway at the all new and exciting TPFF op venue; Ascot R New Zealand. Morrison, One Fell Swo and th Per from ers ign des sed wca sho Featuring designs from 33 Poets, Alex Perry, Empire Rose, Manning C ing for and styl Day 2, 3,300-Miles Apart enting New Zealand. The production res rep i bes Zam and *d Nom Zhivago. and th representing Per the show was exquisite TPFF had showstoppersAus from Perry, Emily Ro h Alex Zhivago, witperry, fashionAlex ianpoets, tral33 g to celebrate eveninSteph ot, anhorses, Asc at rs ppe Sto w Sho Audino and many more. te ma ers Ulti – opp Galvanised ts and Empire Rose were our showst Poe 33 o. vag Zhi and tell Car ng nni y and what a 33 Poets, Empire Rose, Ma year when Ruth Tarvydas passed awa this ats gre the of one lost ry ust ind of the night. The designers sent down the runway. ection. Also fitting tribute to the lady herself the us floral display with a beautiful coll ulo fab a ng udi incl w sho ng nni stu a Flannel nailed it with that I need to be a e. I also decided after this collection tim t firs the for on ecti coll n’s me ir showing the clothes to wear to exotic locations. nds go on to have. luxe traveller with a suitcase of their h year because of the success local bra eac way Run er ign Des WA the S, ut I get excited abo following the careers of WILD HORSE be will I w. sho the for k Yor New Steph Audino was fresh back from things in the future. as I am sure they will go on to great Bruug and Zed Alliance very closely s of Zhivago. It was r’s festival than the Avant-Garde girl yea this e clos to er bett o wh and to see ht Closing nig w from the live streaming and hope sho this d che wat and sat ly ual act I a show to be applauded. r’s festival. more shows providing this for next yea r will go on to exceed my e raised the bar and I know next yea hav you F TPF at lved invo all to e Well don expectations.
gest fashion The fashowcase has es togteher
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PHOTOGRAPHER: CALIN ANDREESCU | www.behance.net/calinandreescu STYLIST : VALERIA GAETANO MAKEUP & HAIR STYLIST: LOREDANA LUPEA MODEL: RALUCA MOS@MYGUYS MODELS ASSISTANT: VALENTINA FOLTIS
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This page: Swimsuit ASOS. Opposite page: Pants & ecklace ZARA, top CLUB L.
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This page: Top VERONICA FRISAN. Opposite page: TopVERO MODA.
g? d in modellin e rt a st t e g ing u o How did y me into groom d e ll ro n e m u m ModAt age 16 my s at Chadwick e ss a cl t n e m and mum and deport e shy as a kid it u q s a w I . ence. h els Pert ase my confid e cr in ld u o as w thought this ation that I w u d ra g r a e y f end o It was at the signed. chosen to be
TIJANA LILIC
How do you find the fashion and modelling industry in Perth? Perth has so many amazing local designers, but the industry itself is a lot slower then other states in Australia because our city is so much smaller and isolated. However, this only means that there is potential room for Perth to expand and I believe it is well on its way to doing so. I personally think that in a few years time Perth’s fashion industry will have developed hugely with many more opportunities becoming available in both the fashion and modeling industry.
What are you r goals for yo ur modelling My goal is to ? What’s nex ideally one d t for yo ay be located my ultimate in America. dream, espe That cially to get despite my to work in N height being e w Yo an issue. I I’ll be able am hoping to set off a n e x g t ye a in …I have spo cy and they ken with my have said A age sia may be but I’ll just my next de have to wait sti n atio and see wh at the future hold
CHEYNE TILLIER-DALY
ou? t is ork ear enon ds!
Can you desc ribe ite experience your favouras a model so far and what made it so sp ecial? I got assigne d to Anima C reative modeling Agency in Ind ia, still to date it has by far be en the best exp erience of my life. Mainly d ue to the cu ltural difference I experienced , as well as the personal jou rn ey of learning a lot about my self which came from traveli ng alone for th e first time and having a lot more respon sibility.
Do you h ave a life m One of m y life mott otto? o s that I try pens for a to re re exactly w ason.� However, it member is that “E ha ve so help to ac t that reasoning is metimes can be h rything hapard to dis cept nega . But whe cover n you rea tive situa tions and li see them se, it can really in a positi ve light.
CHRIS HUZZARD
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odelling? for your m g lin el av tr the opportunione much d ad h u ly yo al re e t av o H ave n been to as of yet I h e liked. I have av h ld u o Unfortunately w I gkok and Duan ch travelling as B u m to as r o ve d o n to ty flow r me and I have also een difficult fo b as h It g. n India last year ti exci ly 5ft 7. ich was really eight being on h y m to bai for jobs wh e u d be jobs overseas would have to y g an lin el m av d n tr t la ils to as wh five star ience for me w gn. I stayed in a ai p m ca The best exper a o d ted like a printo Bangkok to n ea tr w o g fl n t ei b go I as en w wh as if I of beights and it felt favourite parts y m f o e n hotel for four n o y el the best was also definit d experienced an , d o fo cess! The food ai Th as solutely love different places y an m as y tr ing there as I ab is day I could life! I still to th but never can… at th as Pad Thai of my d o ! go was that good a Pad Thai as d it n , fi ay d to e le n ib o ss k o p Bangko yself living in actually see m or tips? to achieve con m ai to e b Any last words ld u o f rathgive people w within yoursel s A tip I would es in p ap h u. personal le think of yo p eo p er th fidence and o ng about what er than worryi
TIJANA LILIC
What do you do to keep fit? Do you have a routine to maintain a healthy lifestyle? I actually don’t do as much exercise as I should or would like myself to do at the moment! But most mornings I take my dog for a walk along the coast and have been currently looking into places that do Pilates as I have seen and heard about the many amazing benefits and results that can come from it in regards to toning, lengthening and strengthening I prefer the calming and slower characteristics of Pilates over intense cardio work outs.
uldn’t know Tell us something we wo about you? of public speaking I am extremely scared s or advertising or having to act for film known to actualcommercials! I have been ve to do speechly start shaking when I ha st for a Bollywood es! One time I had to ca think I have ever movie and honestly don’t a camera before. felt so awkward in front of g or speaking in When it comes to actin t freak out! I think front of an audience I jus confidence in the this may be due to my low I am getting better past, although I believe experience I gain. with the more modeling ople would be to 16. A tip I would give pe nce and personal aim to achieve confide lf rather than worhappiness within yourse ople think of you. rying about what other pe
Do you have a preference between runway and editorial? Editorials!! I still get so nervous before I go on the catwalk! Especially when I am modeling a long dress because I am quiet shorter than most models, so I have to be so careful when walking to try and not fall over! Also, I just really enjoy being behind the camera, I think it is a lot more fun and rewarding to see my images printed.
ANIMA CREATIVE FOR PARK AVENUE
ANIMA CREATIVE INDIA
pastel PLAY PHOTOGRAPHER: CARMEN ROSE | www.carmenrose.com.au STYLIST : CHIVY@ Seagulls of St Kilda MAKEUP & HAIR STYLIST: MAE TAYLOR MODELS: PARIS @ Brazen
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Bangle HERMES, bodice MINISTRY OF STYLE Blessed are the Meek pants Solsana Shoes
This page: Oxford street dress SEAGULLS. Opposite page: Dress MINISTRY OF STYLE.
This page: Top CAMEO THE LABEL, rose-gold armband ELIZABETH JEAN, culottes MINISTRY OF STYLE. Opposite page: Bodice MINISTRY OF STYLE, skirt BLACK BY GENG, shoes SOLSANA.
Siren PHOTOGRAPHER: MAKEUP: HAIR: MANICURE: MODEL:
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DARREN TIESTE IRIS MOREAU SALLY HENLEY ELISA WISHAN JULIA ESCOVA
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Stocklist www.cristinabomba.com www.armyofmedesign.com www.hm.com www.bershka.com www.momashop.it www.diesel.com www.geox.com www.reminiscence.fr www.calvinklein. com www.zara.com www.asos.com www.blessedarethemeek.com.au www.blackbygeng.com www.veronicafrisan.com www.veromoda.com www.en.etam.com www.australia.hermes.com www.wildandheart.com www.theiconic.com.au www.seagullsofstkilda.com.au www.elizabethjeanjewellery.com www.sol-sana.com www.americanapparel.net www.matthewleedesign.com.au www.bimbaylola.com www.justcavalli.com www.zara.com www.dolcegabbana.com www.globe.pt www.theiconic.com.au www.blessedarethemeek.com.au www.wildandheart.com www.seagullsofstkilda.com.au www.cameothelabel.com.au www.sol-sana.com www.blackbygeng.com www.jomaycao.com.au www.lostsouls-online.com www.thehunterstory.com www.mauricioalpizar.com.au www.bardot.com.au www.aureliocostarella.com
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