VATRA MAGAZINE www.vatramagazine.com editors Tijana lilic and Danielle Edwards Welcome to Autumn! Autumn brings the chance to experience the battle between winter and summer. It crosses between the dreamy summer days to the swift confronting nights of winters. We have combined this landscape as an experience of visual coyness, some beautiful, some romantic and some challenging, but all striking. We hope to make our audience stop and breathe in the autumn wind. As the cooler weather of autumn came, it brought in a wave of warmer garments and subdued hues, which was seen at the Urban Couture Festival. A month long fashion showcase of some talented Australian designers, which we feel privileged to have been a part of. We found the runways to be full of promising designers with inspirational collections. It was a fantastic entrance into autumn fashion.
ON THE COVER
Lyndel Yeo @ 35mm Fashion Photography
Š2013 VATRA MAGAZINE ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED IN WHOLE OR PART WITHOUT PERMISSION FROM THE PUBLISHERS. THE VIEWS EXPRESSED IN VATRA ARE THOSE OF THE CONTRIBUTERS AND ARE NOT NECESSARILY SHARED BY THE PUBLISHERS. THE MAGAZINE WELCOMES NEW IDEAS AND CONTRIBUTORS BUT CAN NOT ASSUME RESPONSIBILITY FOR UNSOLICITED WORDS, PHOTOGRAPHS OR ILLUSTRATIONS. VATRA 2
Contents FASHION 04. URBAN AMAZON by LAURA NEUMEISTER 12 .ROOM 26 by CLAUDIA LINK 18. EMPRESS by TIJANA LILIC 24. DANGEROUS INTIMACY by NATALIA HORINKOVA 30. DISCLOSURE by FILIPPOS HATZIS 40. ON THE ROCKS by LYNDEL YEO 54. FALSE PRETENSE by MAE RICHARDS 62. CLOSE TO NOWHERE by DAVID REISS 70. TAKING HONG KONG by LAURA CAMMARATA 76. COLOURS by JOANNA KUSTRA 84. ROCOCO by RICKY SANTOS 90. FADING PROMISE by DANIELLE EDWARDS
FEATURES 10. DMV Designer Feature 36. ANYA BROCK Artist Interview 48. URBAN COUTURE Spread 82. Kylie Eustace Article
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PHOTOGRAPHY: LAURA NEUMEISTER | www.lauraneumeister.com STYLING: GEORGINA O MAKE UP AND HAIR: RAEONI DAVIES FOR ILLAMASQUA MODEL: BELLE LESLIE BACKGROUND ART: CHRIS NEYLON
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This page: Shona This page: Shona joy stick em up joy stick em up bodycon HALCYON bodycon HALCYON STATE. STATE. Opposite page: Brass plates statement necklace SIMONA ROEDER.
Silver studded armour dress SIMONA ROEDER, melm silver cluster ring HALCYON STATE, lady lavender floral ring MIDAS TOUCH & CO, other accessories models own.
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This page: Brass plates and chain statement necklace SIMONA ROEDER Opposite page: Anikah bejewelled earring MIDAS TOUCH & CO, hand beaded collar NATASHA FAGG.
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DMV
DENISSE MARIANELA VERA
UNIDENTIFIED LINES speaks of an ancient mystery. It is an exploration of the contrasting perceptions that surround the existence of the ancient Nazca geoglyphs in Peru. The collection possesses an elegent yet raw aesthetic through the incorhporation of hand knotted macrame and sublimation printing. Through these techniques, themes of ancient mythology vs the modern age are bought to light and used to create a new aesthetic.
UNIDENTIFIED LINES
DMV is a high-end made to measure womenswear label that is unique in that the work is conceptually based, driven by culture and very high in quality. With a focus on bringing traditional textile techniques into contemporary culture. DMV also uses modern textiles to create unique pieces that tell a story, therefore offering a product that is unlike anything in the market. The DMV woman is hard working and dedicated. She is creative and open-minded, although she does not necessarily work in the fashion industry, she has an eye for fashion and is style savvy. The DMV woman is strong and cultural, she dreams of travel and conquering the world. Designer and director Denisse Marianela Vera is a hardworking and passionate woman who, due to her persistence and passion for DMV has gained sucess at a very early stage in her career. Denisse graduated from the University of Technology in Sydney after completing a Bachelor of Design in fashion and textiles in 2012. She thoroughly enjoyed studying but she never stopped pushing herself in every aspect throughout her degree. Whilst studying at UTS Denisse began interning at a small Australian label and was later employed as a design assistant and fit model. She was also signed with fit modelling agency and worked for labels such as Camila and Marc, Willow and Simona and Dolina. Denisse Marianela Vera conjured up the concept for her first collection UNIDENTIFIED LINES in 2013 after traveling through her motherland, Chile. Out of chance she became stranded in a desert town called San Pedro De Atacama. She wanted to make the most of her additional time there so she strolled through the plaza and befriended a kind and talented artist. Denisse spent her remaining days learning and soaking up his
beautiful culture and passion. It was here that she was first exposed to the art of macrame’ and she became completely obsessed with the technique as it was intricate and story-telling, these are the two traits that have come to describe the DMV aesthetic. After Presenting her collection in December 2012, Denisse recieved an influx of interest in her unique pieces from photographers, stylists and potential clients. She immediately began to create and took up a range of exciting opportunities that have continued to this day. The unique aesthetic also attracted the attention of well-known personalily Antoinette Marie, also known as the Sydney Fashion Blogger. When Antoinette wore the DMV pieces and posted images of herself Denisse managed to form a firm clientele, it was a great exposure. DMV has a very exciting future ahead. Designer Denisse Verais very passionate about her work and her heart is set on creating high quality garments that tell a beautiful story. â–
PHOTOGRAPHY: MITCH HAY MODEL: STEFANI ASHMORE MAKE UP ARTIST: CHARLENE HILTON HAIR STYLING: LAUREN MARIE LE BON
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PHOTOGRAPHY: CLAUDIA LINK | www.claudialink.ch MAKE UP & HAIR: CHRISTIAN MERZ STYLING: NINA ALEXANDRA WERNER & CATHRINA MUEHLBERG-BURKART MODEL: ANNA C. & AARON K. | FOTOGEN MODEL MANAGEMENT SWITERLAND STYLING ASSISTANT: MARTIN SPITALER
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Female: White blazer and leather panties CLAUDIA BONORAND, necklace H&M. Male: Shirt H&M, jacket PKZ, pants MODELS OWN.
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This page: Shirt CATHRINA MUEHLBERG-BURKART, panties H&M, shoes ZARA. Opposite page: suit PKZ.
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This page: Suit PKZ. Opposite page: Leather jacket CATHRINA MUHLBERG-BURHART, ring stylist own.
PHOTOGRAPHER: TIJANA LILIC |www.tijanalilicphotography.4ormat.com MAKE UP ARTIST: ALANA SANTOS HAIR STLYING: ROBERT McPHILOMEY MODEL: SASHA @ CHADWICK MODELS
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Dress EVIL TWINS @ FI & hCO.
This page: singlet models own. Opposite page: Mesh dress LEVANTE, shirt
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This page: Necklace ZOIKTEE. Opposite page: Mesh dress LEVANTE.
PHOTOGRAPHY: NATALIA HORINKOVA | www.nataliahorinkova.com STYLING: LENYA JONES MAKE UP ARTIST: CHRISTABEL DRAFFIN HAIR STYLIST: LINH NYGUYEN MODEL: BUDGIE@ LONDON MGT GROUP
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Shirt TOI ET MOI, Fur JENNIFER KATE, skirt EBONY EVE, jewellery LOTUS MENDES.
This page: Blouse ELLIAT, Bracelets, earrings and necklace LOVISA. Opposite page: Corset MARLIES DEKKERS LEADING STRING CORSETS, tap pants STATE OF GEORGIA, necklace and rings MADE IN EARTH CREATIONS, fur vest RUBY SEES ALL, bangles LO VISA, shoes WINDSOR SMITH.
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This page: Fur vest ELLIAT, leather dress MILLIE LOVES MIN, necklace, earrings and bangles LOVISA, ring MADE IN EARTH CREATIONS. Opposite page: Corset MARLIES DEKKERS NUBIAN NIGHT CORSETS, fur jacket JENNIFER KATE, necklace, bracelet and rings LOTUS MENDES, earrings
PHOTOGRAPHY: FILIPPOS HATZIS | www.filipposhatzis.com STYLING: SOBCHAK MAKE UP AND HAIR: MARITA THOMA-POLITOU MODEL: VIKA LEVINA @ WOMEN MANAGEMENT
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Leather jacket CELINE, body piece WOLFORD, accessories H&M.
This page: Vest YSL, shirt TOPSHOP, shorts JUST CAVALLI. Opposite page: Leather Skirt VINTAGE, shoes LOUBOUTIN, accessories H&M and TOPSHOP.
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This page: Leather Jacket ZARA, Lingerie WOLFORD, accessories H&M and TOPSHOP. Opposite page: Tank top JEAN PAUL GAULTIER, eyering TOPSHOP.
ANYA BROCK www.anyabrock.com
“Anya Brock is an artist and illustrator who paints varied subject matter in a broad range of styles. Her choice of subject matter, technique and work titles address the rawness of vulnerability and living with an open heart. From sensuous, sexual and innocent faced girls to tactile, drippy birds, Anya is drawn to the fragile world beneath the facade.�
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Can you tell us a little bit about yourself, and how you got started as an artist? Well it’s the pretty typical story when I was young, my mum put my sister and I in art classes after primary school, then I went to a specialised art high school. I then actually studied Fashion and Textile design for 3 years and during my final year launched my own label, ANAN, which I had for about 7 years. After 7 years I found myself hungry for more knowledge and a change in scenery so I moved to London, first to intern then work for Christopher Kane and Richard Nicoll. I had been drawing a lot before I left but I definitely focused more on it while I was in London as it was a necessary escape from a crazy industry in a busy city. So two years later I decided to leave the fashion industry, come home to Perth and concentrate completely on my painting and drawing. I’ve been back almost two and a half years now. Do you feel your artwork is inspired by everyday life? And can you describe a situation that greatly influenced a particular piece of work? I can’t actually be sure what my subject matter is inspired by- I mean yes fashion girls- I’m interested in beauty and all the facets of female (and I guess people in general) that can be expressed in the face. The budgies and animals... I don’t think I’m necessarily inspired by these animals, it’s more their aesthetic qualities I’m drawn to- the graphic nature of their patterns and their robust silhouettes. I think my day to day inspiration comes from responding to how I’m feeling ie. There are certain days where I just need to throw around paint on a large scale and others where I’m happy to concentrate intensely on fine pens drawings. Can you tell us about working at the fashion label ANAN? What made you change from fashion to painting? ANAN was great- for the most part I loved having my own label.
I kept it pretty small and hands on as I really enjoy the practical side of things. My partner at the time came on board and we ended up stocking around 25 stores nationally with a distributor in Melbourne. I just got to the point where I felt I wasn’t learning anything new and that I couldn’t make the things I wanted to. It became more about business than creativity, which for me was not the point. This was when I started drawing faces in my visual diaries at night to satisfy my creative need. Can you tell us about your creative process? Well it depends on how I’m feeling- I’ll choose colours and a style according to whatever is going on inside me and I start from there. My work usually involves a lot of layering. The girls either involve painting a flat colour then throwing paint at the canvas then drawing a detailed pen illustration over it or doing some kind of abstract background then painting a girl then accentuating tones with charcoal and chalk. For the birds I roughly draw the shape then do a crude under painting to get the colours right then drip heavy layers of paint over the top and finish with adding the black detailing. The zebras are much the same. The geometrics are generally the hardest- these are a lot about an action/ reaction process where each move or shape or colour depends directly on what’s around it. I spend a lot more time working out the composition, balance and tonal qualities of the geometrics. You have written that your work ‘addresses the rawness of vulnerability and living with an open-heart can you explain this? Yeah, that was written at a time when I was going through a pretty heart wrenching point in a relationship and it seemed I needed everyone to know about it! Hahaha. Now I’m a bit more private with certain things but I still aim to live as honestly with myself and the people around me. Which can often be challenging for people but healthy I think.
Can you talk a little about the series ‘Illustrated Girls’. What inspired this series of work? Is there a relationship between yourself and these women? I think there’s elements of me in them- not necessarily in an literal aesthetic way- although it has been said I paint girls that look like me which I guess is only natural but also super narcissistic! Hahaha. Once again it’s lot about the process. I enjoy the delicate but also (sometimes) dark and a bit broken nature of the girls that come from pen and ink illustrations. I love the layering- it’s a patient process which can sometimes be challenging for me but it can also act as a bit of a meditation to slow down my usual cyclonic pace. How does scale impact your creative practise? I actually used to think I only liked painting super big- and I still think scale in that respect is super effective but lately I’ve been producing smaller works and really enjoying it. I think I educated myself with amazing painters whose work is quite simple but on a massive scale and I really love that combination. I’ve recently done a mural of two zebras on a wall 4 x 8m, which is the biggest work I’ve done to date- and there’s no denying the effect of scale and the exposure that it gives you. I’m actually looking to create bigger pieces on canvas in Sydney, probably nudes. What is your ultimate goal when creating a piece of artwork; do you ever feel you haven’t achieved your goal? And can you describe your process in getting through such a situation? When painting for myself the goal is to paint how I feel, to make the most truthful mark. And this is where the meeting of commerce and deadlines can interrupt and bastardise the process but I just try to find a balance. I think the best way to achieve this on the regular is to live as honestly as possible with yourself and for me that’s about creating boundaries and listening to what I
need. Also the goals for the paintings can be different ie. commissions or painting for experiment- so its also about being aware of expectations per piece and keeping that in mind when creating. What have been your biggest challenges? Every time I try to push into a new style or attempt to alter my process is challenging. It’s more the internal struggle to get to a new place without it being too much of a departure from your style or too comical that gets me. What memorable responses have recieved about your work? I get really lovely emails from people saying how much my work inspires them which is awesome. But I also see a lot of high school students emulating my work- I think it’s important that young people have role models that are actually making a living from art so that they know that’s an option. People often respond to living from art so that they know that’s an option. People often respond to the titles as well- which used to be super heart breaking but are a little more ambiguous now. Do you have any advice for aspiring artists? Create all the time- regardless of, if it’s selling or if you get interest. Do the work, keep believing what you’re doing is right and keep evolving. Don’t listen to the haters and don’t be so private with your work that it never gets seen. Also become a good business-person and don’t be afraid to market yourself but more than anything stick to your guns. I mean its different for all artists but all of that has definitely worked for me. ■
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PHOTOGRAPHY: LYNDEL YEO| 35MM FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY www.35mmfashionphotography.com STYLING BY: NICOLE HELOU MAKE AND HAIR: CAROLINE MASSOLA MODEL: SHELBY @ LONDON
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Nazca print asymmetric skirt DMV.
This page: Lace bra AMERICAN APPAREL, accessories DEERRUBY. Opposite page: Chiffon dress KAREN WILLIS HOLMES, lace brief AMERICAN APPAREL, accessories DEERRUBY.
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Macrame dress DMV, assessories DEERRUBY.
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This page: Lace Bra and brief AMERICAN APPAREAL, metalic shorts AMERICAN APPAREL. Opposite page: Lace bra AMERICAN APPAREL, accessories DEERRUBY, fabric
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PHOTOGRAPHY: MAE RICHARDS | MAZE PHOTOGRAPHY PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT: DAPHNIE CEBEK STYLIST: KATE HENDERSON MAKE UP ARTIST: STEPHANIE LYNN POWERS HAIR STYLIST: MAE RICHARDS MODEL: MONIKA @ FUSION NYC
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Vintage jacket NEIMAN MARCUS, underwear H& M.
This page: Dress STYLIST OWN, belt RALPH LAUREN, shoes STEVE MADDEN. Opposite page: Hat STYLIST OWN, pants VINTAGE, shirt H&M, necklace DANIELLE WALLIS.
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This page: Bra H&M, pants AMERICAN APPAREL, shoes STEVE MADDEN. Opposite page: Vintage jacket NEIMAN MARCUS.
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This page: Scarf URBAN OUTFITTERS, kimono STYLISTS OWN, tights TOPSHOP, shoes STEVE MADDEN. Opposite page: Bra H&M.
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PHOTOGRAPHY: DAVID REISS | www.davidreiss.com.au PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT: JACOB McFADDEN STYLIST: MAURIZIO LAINO MAKE UP AND HAIR: SHANNON McGLINCHEY MODEL: JENA @ GIANT
One piece swimsuit MIJANOU CACHEREL, shoes NOVO, accessories stylist own.
This page: Bustiere bikini MIJANOU ART NOUVEAU, leather skirt ZACCARIA, shoes NOVO, accessories STYLIST OWN. Opposite page: Lace Blazer SOL HERMANA, white shorts HER PONY ANNIE, accessories STYLIST OWN.
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The rose mesh dress, EDGELEY.
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Lace cardi MINA & KATUSHA, accessories stylist own.
This page: Riviera dress OSCAR CALVO, accessories STYLIST OWN. Opposite page: Off the shoulder dress EDGELY SOPHIE, accessories STYLIST OWN.
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PHOTOGRAPHY: LAURA CAMMARATA| www.lauracammarata.com STYLING: NIKEI MAK HAIR AND MAKE UP: JACQLYN TAN MODEL: ISABEL @ MODEL MANAGEMENT HONG KONG PRODUCTION: CHERYL RODRIGUEZ @ CHERIKO PRODUCTIONS PRODUCTION ASSISTANT: REBECCA HARDMAN
Blue wool dress KENAX LEUNG, black strappy heels stylist own.
This page: Blue hat REISS, green long sleeved shirt REISS, grey knit w/zips REISS. Top Left: Yellow coat MAX & CO, cream shirt MAX & CO, navy blue skirt SPORTMAX, black lace up boots REISS. Bottom left: Coat SANDRA CHAN, orchid dress, SANDRA CHAN, white shirt SANDRA CHAN, black lace up boots REISS.
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Black long sleeved dress SPORTSMAX, black heels,stylists own - ZARA.
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PHOTOGRAPHY: JOANNA KUSTRA | www.joannakustra.com STYLING: SOPHIE O MAKE UP ARTIST: URIM HAIR STYLIST: AKIRA YAMADA MODELS: RUBY SALTE BALTHAZAR @ PROFILE MODELS, NATALIA RED, ISIS @ LENI’S MODELS, SABRINA @ OXYGEN MODELS.
Shirt, VINTAGE.
This page: Shirt NEW LOOK, accessories THAT’S PRETTY. Opposite page: Shirt TOP SHOP, ring THAT’S PRETTY, necklace SAVING FACE JEWELLERY.
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This page:Headpiece MARY FRANCK MILLINERY, top H&M. Opposite page: Dress SISTER JANE.
NATURALLY ETHICAL CHOICES Words Kylie Eustace
“Our body is a magnificent and sensitive instrument, our skin is our largest organ and just like a sponge it can absorb up to 60% of what we put on it topically. That is a lot of make up and personal care products for our system to deal with, even in only a single day!�
Photo Kylie Eustace Many who try to lead a healthy, balanced lifestyle, enjoying life’s simple pleasures would have rejoiced in seeing fashion and lifestyle trends returning back to, the natural, the ethical and caring for the environment. It is not too surprising but it is with great happiness and relief to be able to say nature is thankfully back and it is even fashionable! It is satisfying to see the fashion and make-up industries becoming more mindful of what many of us have been demanding, namely healthier products. Even some of the mainstream make-up brands are now offering a limited range, cruelty, irritant and harmful chemical free, natural and mineral alternatives for consumers. Complete mineral/vegan ranges of professional cosmetics are now available for make up artists too! This is terrific, as only a few years ago, high quality, natural make up was not readily available or recommended to make up professionals for photo or video work. Increased demand has helped fuel research and now advanced, natural professional formulations have been created so we now have options to replace the high irritant containing products still being used by make up artists today. Many make up artists are choosing to use natural products professionally as they are confident in their intensity, staying power and safety. Actors, models and others under constant public scrutiny need to look great and often must wear make up for long periods which will cause problems if there are allergy causing irritants or clogging fillers in their products. For those that have sensitive skin, quality brands of naturally hypoallergenic minerals are the perfect answer. However it is advisable to research the brand if wishing to go natural and mineral. Always check a product is professional quality as you want photo results.
It is really quite astounding at how many harmful chemicals are found in make up products and cosmetics you will find in department stores or your make up artist’s case of outwardly pretty products. Many of the products include perservatives, parabens, FD & C colours and dyes and common irritants. Some even contain known carcinogens that, if we are exposed to them in sufficient quantities can cause cancer. Of course the amounts used in cosmetics are very small and some studies claim they are probably quite safe but the risk is there and the effects over a lifetimes use are still to be determined. Our body is a magnificent and sensitive instrument, our skin is our largest organ and just like a sponge it can absorb up to 60% of what we put on it topically. That is a lot of make up and personal care products for our system to deal with, even in only a single day! Think about choosing natural and ethical alternatives to look after your health and be kind to yourself, our animals and our planet. Vegan make up brushes too have also progressed to another level of excellence with the amazing developments in synthetic hair. It is wonderful animals no longer have to be used in the name of beauty. There is really no reason to continue using animal hair when the finest sable brushes cannot match the synthetic fibres now available. The new brushes are finer, softer, hold product better, and are easier to use, less irritating and more resistant to bacteria. This is a win for animals and a win for you. â–
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PHOTOGRAPHY: ASSISTANT: MAKE UP ARTIST: HAIR STYLING: MODEL:
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RICKY SANTOS MICHAEL SARICH JENNIFER KAHL SHERILYN CALVO ERIN HANNAH
Butterfly bustier, MEGAN SALMON, thunderdome necklace & bad to the bone cuff GENERICS.
This page: Her majesty necklace GENERICS, ivory felt cape MEGAN SALMON. Opposite page: Bad to the bone cuff GENERICS, ivory felt cape & chinoiserie skirt MEGAN SALMON.
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This page: Black silk organza frill blouse and silk lace partiri skirt MEGAN SALMON, deadly sins necklace and bad to the bone cuff GENERICS. Opposite page: Thunderdome necklace, Mr T choker and bad to the bone cuff GENERICS, wool jersey LBD MEGAN SALMON.
PHOTOGRAPHY: DANIELLE EDWARDS | www.dedwardsphotography.net MAKE UP & HAIR: MICHELLE BARBER STYLING: ASHLEIGH HOLMAN MODEL: ALICE LAAS
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Le smoking skirt STOLEN GIRLFRIENDS CLUB, shoes stylist own, orange crop top VPL TWO CROPPER TOP FLAME, necklace stylist own.
This page: Camden cuff 975, living with lucre neck piece KATHERINE DUNMILL, peony pants WILD HORSES. Opposite page: Jolie jean weave MAURIE & EVE, fleur shirt weave MAURIE & EVE, rose gold bauble ring ADELINE CACHEUX, satellite neck piece GENERICS, high society jacket WILD HORSES.
This page: Camden cuff 975, peony pants WILD HORSES, catwalk chicanery black frill neck piece, KATHERINE DUNMILL. Opposite page: Belted shirt KSUBI, ring stylist own, lucre red collar KATHERINE DUNMALL, shoes stylist own, gryphon pants THREE OF SOMETHING.
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This page: Tie died necklace ARA LOVE DESIGN, cape STEPH AUDINO, shoes STYLIST OWN. Opposite page: High society jacket WILD HORSES.
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Featured in this issue v#3 MERGE SUBIACO 388 Hay st Subiaco PERTH 6008 HATCH 55 Carillon city Hay st PERTH 6000 MEGAN SALMON 55 Queen Victoria st Fremantle PERTH 6160 BLACKWALL CLAREMONT Shop 1/30 Jarrah st Cottesloe PERTH 6011 FI & CO 289 William st Northbridge PERTH 6003 MAX & CO Shop 3063, 500 Oxford st Bondi Junction SYDNEY 2022 RICARDO FASHION OBJECTS 399 Hay st Subiaco PERTH 6008
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ON THE BACK
Joanna Kustra Photography
NEXT ISSUE WINTER JULY 2013