algarvePLUS - September '23

MORE TEMPTING THAN YOU EVER IMAGINED

Cool is the word of the moment. It covers attitudes, entertainment, emotions, food, fashion trends, people and places. Everything, it seems, apart from the climate. But perhaps this month, and what should be the start of the slow-down/cool-down season, will be more comforting. Years ago, we reckoned on needing a sweater in the early evening even in the summertime. But, as I said, that was years ago.

So much has changed, and continues to change, and the new-wave climate is bringing its own difficulties. Helping our fire fighters, who face so many dangers looking after our land and our communities, is vital, and the organisations supporting them cannot thank those enough who are ready to contribute financially and offer support by giving their time. The same goes for Faro-based cancer charity, Associação Oncológica do Algarve, who are staging their annual MAMAMARATONA in October to raise awareness, and the funds needed to support cancer sufferers and their families (see page 93).

Coming up this month are many special events, covering sports, art (don’t miss the Portimão fair, see page 38) and concerts to the autumn round of workshops, so your diary should be packed.

And of course, there’s lots to read about right here. Happy Autumn... and keep cool.

CONTACTS

SWEET TALK

Kuki Sweets is a delightful vegan brand based in Olhão that aims to satisfy sweet cravings guilt-free with a wide array of delicious treats, ranging from mouthwatering cookies and cakes to wholesome granola and edible flowers. Whether you follow a vegan lifestyle or simply appreciate plant-based delights, you'll find something hugely satisfying here that can be delivered to you in the Algarve. Kuki Sweets also hosts private events and workshops.

Talk to the boss, Liliana Alves, to check out the possibilities.

916 684 745

kuki@kuki-sweets.com

FRONT COVER:

Well bread, and always delicious. More of Portugal’s daily specials on page 69.

Image: Toa Heftiba

Stools they are, but on their side – indoors or outside –they make a great design statement with smooth curves and distinct textures.

The Macchiato from Caffe Latte is a collage of various laths or wastes of wood and comes in solid oak or mahogany – a tribute to the concept of minimalist design. caffelattehome.com IF YOU HAVE ANYTHING YOU WOULD LIKE TO SHARE EMAIL susi@rogol-goodkind.com

From Jina Nebe comes a new collection of table textiles featuring original embroideries inspired by the meanderings of the Ria Formosa and Algarve salt pans. Jina’s textiles and ceramics are available to buy in the Loulé Criativo pop-up shop jinanebe.com

Yes please. Who could say no to this Luisa Cerano twopiece in jacquard jersey? Xanadu in Quinta Shopping is where to head. 289 392 615 Instagram xanadu_boutique

TAKE A SEAT

Wesley Sacardi’s Dorso Chair is from his Descartes Series, created especially for the exhibition at NovoBanco Gallery in Lisbon, part of the Lisbon Design Week action circuit early this year. This wood artist never fails to stun with his origination and design bravado. See his work at the Design Lab in Loulé’s Palácio Gama Lobo. instagram.com/ wesleysacardi/

A new space, a new concept, and one of the most impressive collections of luxury outdoor furnishings, selected from the world’s top design specialists – yes, Dunas Living has opened its grand doors in Almancil. This vast architecturally-designed area, surrounded by lush Mediterranean gardens, houses a skilfully-curated array of furniture and accessories, a design studio, and the much-talked about Austa restaurant and coffee shop where ‘special’ is the message. dunas-living.com

And now for something different to dress a coffee table or sideboard or to sit on a shelf, this attention-getting metal sculpture is iron with a golden finish and measures 18x18x18cm. €86, from Quinta Style in Almancil quintastyle.com

SPOILT FOR CHOICE.

It is impossible to go into Zé e Maria in Olhão for a quick look. You’ll be there for a while making decisions! And where do you begin?

Paintings by Meinke Flesseman (every home needs at least one), Portuguese tablewear, candles and some wonderful one-off ceramics, as well as textiles and casualwear. It’s heaven. instagram.com/zeemariaolhao/

LIGHTEN UP

Circu is one of the big Portuguese names in luxury homewares and its Diana pendant lamp is an industrialinspired design that embodies all the simplicity and sophistication of the mid-century modern age. The body is handmade in brass and aluminum and the lacquered shade can be customised in your choice of colour. circu.net

WELL WOODN ’ T YOU?

This handsome firewood storer is something of a feature piece. Called The Nest, it combines functionality and design, the handwriting of its maker, Portuguese house Cobermaster Concept. Measuring 61cmLx30cmWx47cmH, it holds accessories out of sight. cobermasterconcept.com/pt/

TAVIRA - LAGOS - OLHÃO - P. VERDE

Famous faces are the subject of this vast mural by artists of the Satori Association.

GRAFFITI VERSUS STREET ART? ILLEGAL VERSUS LEGAL? VANDALISM VERSUS ADORNMENT? IT’S A MINEFIELD OF OPINION, BUT LOVE IT OR HATE IT, URBAN ART IS HERE TO STAY

Words: : DEBBIE REYNOLDS

Art? BUT IS IT

Opposite page: Tiago Guerreiro

NOT MUCH gets me as rattled as turning a corner down a quaint historic street only to be assaulted by an ugly, meaningless scribble. I’m sad and infuriated for the family in the famous octopus fishing village of Santa Luzia who are regularly scrubbing down their house wall to eradicate a WASP tag.

The amount of convincing it took me to get my mother to catch a train from Tavira to Faro was epic. “But they’re so dirty, darling,” she insisted. “I mean look at all that graffiti splashed on the outside. They must be filthy inside.”

And yet, driving on the N125 through Olhão, I’m constantly entranced by the beautiful street paintings that have turned dilapidated old buildings into art galleries. There’s a street corner in São Brás that I go out of my way to show people because of its stunning street mural of an Algarvian woman.

There’s also no denying that the building just before the bridge on your way to Salir is jaw-droppingly beautiful, but only because the once-deserted old mill is now the headquarters of the Satori Artistic Association.

It’s here that I meet Satori’s main man, Tiago Guerreiro, who started the association 24 years ago. It’s the association’s artists who have decorated the walls of the Salir factory with vivid contrasting images.

They, along with renowned Portuguese street artist Dgiphi, aka Asur, are also responsible for the stunning murals on two abandoned fish canning factories on the edge of Olhão’s Bairro do Levante. Commissioned by the Olhão Council and working from old pictures, the intricate black and white murals show the proud past of Olhão’s fishing industry.

“We’re also very proud of the work we were commissioned to do at the Cunha Rivara stadium of Arraiolos and the religious mural painted by our artist Stephen Jones in Loulé last year,” says Tiago.

Paying tribute to Loulé’s patron saint Nossa Senhora da Piedade, the mural was inaugurated on May 1, on the same day as the city hosted its Festa da Mãe Soberana, billed as the biggest religious celebration south of Fátima.

It’s a far cry from the early more anarchistic days back in 1999 when Tiago and his friends were hanging out, listening to punk, reggae and heavy metal music.

“At that time here in Portugal things were very different from society today – it wasn’t considered normal to have things like tattoos, piercings and dreadlocks,” he says.

“Everyone just thought we were useless junkies, but in reality we are about social inclusion and we are fiercely patriotic about defending our family, our territory and our country.”

Doing it for others

Upliftment is Tiago’s driving force, whether it be of a downtrodden neighbourhood or a youngster needing a hand up, which is why he created Satori as a home for creatives of all types.

“Urban art is a big part of our culture, but we also do music and performance art, from juggling to stilt walking and fire breathing,” he explains. “For example, we’ve just worked at the Med Festival in Loulé and were at the Silves Medieval Festival in August.”

His most important rule is that whatever Satori’s 200-something members do, it has to be legal.

“If we find any of our artists doing illegal work, like graffiti, the first time, just as in football, you get benched and not invited to work. Get caught again and you’re out!”

He abhors vandalism and defacement of buildings, calling the people who do so egotistical, arrogant and ignorant. “What I explain to people is that mostly it is not the poor kids who are doing this, but the rich kids. A medium can of spray paint costs €5, so to make relatively good graffiti will cost up to €1,000 – it’s definitely not the kids from the ghettos doing this.”

Until about ten years ago, urban art was a crime, but Satori started speaking to the Loulé Council asking for spaces where people could legally paint. “We called the

project Dar Cor a Cidade (Colour the City) and in 2014 we got the first official pass from the council to paint the Skate Park,” reports Tiago. One of his innovations was to encourage the council to bring graffiti offenders to Satori where they could learn about making beautiful spaces rather than vandalizing them.

“We try to teach them that it’s not about your ego and putting your name all over the place, but rather using your talent to make beautiful things that make us all proud of our towns and our country.

“The thing about graffiti is that once an artist has painted his signature, others cannot paint over it, which means that it spreads exponentially, but if there are legal controlled spaces, it works for everybody.”

Bringing change

Satori is all about cleaning and beautifying spaces so, for instance, wherever they are commissioned to work, they commit to removing illegal graffiti and tags for 100m around the project.

I’m told the fines in Portugal for illegal street art range from €100 to €25,000 euros, but that’s obviously only if you get caught and prosecuted. It’s hard to police, especially when a lot of the perpetrators are under 16 years old and therefore can’t be prosecuted.

“Sometimes the police catch them and confiscate their spray cans, but generally they run away only to come back and do it again,” says Tiago. “It’s a big power trip game to them and that’s the problem. It’s just stupid ego.

“Portugal has its freedom now and here in the Algarve we need to keep the essence of our heritage, which is being the paradise of Europe. We need to protect our ecology, our countryside and our tradition.”

MORE ABOUT SATORI

The association’s next fundraising project (25% of their funding is from sponsorship and the rest from selling their art) is a Halloween Party at the Salir Factory next month, on 31 October.

They are decorating Lick, the biggest disco in the Algarve in the Vilamoura area. They are also in negotiations with the Castro Marim council to create a nativity scene in Odeleite for Christmas this year.

Want to know more?

satori.associacao@gmail.com / Facebook:Associacao Artistica - Satori

IN CASE YOU were wondering what the incessant Wasp and Kams thing is all about, according to Europetutor.com, Wasp is a person’s name who is a graffiti writer and artist. Kams is the name of his crew. Wasp, a professional graffiti artist, has been painting since 2006, but apparently not all the Wasps you see are written by him. The word on the street is kids do it to copy him.

Of course, verifying any of this is impossible as graffiti artists have a strict code of anonymity and no snitching.

Their other “rules” are said to be:

- Historical monuments, religious institutions and small businesses are out of bounds.

- You should not write over someone else’s work.

True graffiti is illegal and is always about fame and not money. It has a strict hierarchy, with the most visible or skilled artists known as kings, with crowns within their work being a reference to their status. Lesser artists can only gain status by impressing the ‘kings’.

UNDENIABLY the most famous street artist in the world, Banksy has taken the genre to a whole new level. A brilliant artist, he is also a political activist, satirical social commentator and probably the world’s most relevant influencer.

The elusive artist, whose identity remains a mystery, has turned the world’s attention to everything from domestic violence and bullying to capitalism, greed and hypocrisy.

Some of his most recent controversial works have been statements on the Russian war against Ukraine. He apparently confirmed to The Art Newspaper that he created seven murals in locations hardest hit by Russian bombardment, including one showing a man resembling Vladimir Putin being thrown to the ground by a young boy in a judo match.

Thought to have grown up in Bristol, UK, where he started as a freehand graffiti artist in the 90s with a crew called DryBreadZ, he moved to London and has since gained worldwide notoriety with his works selling for millions. In one of his stunts, his Girl with Red Balloon sold at an auction for £1million, before shredding itself.

Banksy uses stencils to create his art, which has been described by art brokers as “complex and emotive, yet simple to digest and appreciate”.

In his book, Wall and Piece, Banksy claims: “The people who truly deface our neighbourhoods are the companies that scrawl their giant slogans across buildings and buses trying to make us feel inadequate unless we buy their stuff.”

CONSIDERED TO BE Portugal’s most famous urban artist, and one of the top in the world, Vhils was born in 1987 and grew up in Seixal, an industrialised suburb across the river from Lisbon.

According to his website: “He was deeply influenced by the transformations brought on by the intensive urban development the country underwent in the 1980s and 1990s. He was particularly inspired by how city walls absorb the social and historical changes that take place around them.

Applying his original methods of creative destruction, Vhils digs into the surface layers of our material culture like a contemporary urban archaeologist, exposing what lies beyond the superficiality of things, making visible the invisible and restoring meaning and beauty to the dimensions buried beneath.

Since 2005, he has presented his work in over 30 countries around the world in solo and group exhibitions, site-specific art interventions, artistic events and projects in various contexts – from working with communities in the favelas of Rio de Janeiro, to collaborations with reputed art institutions including MAAT – Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology (Lisbon), Contemporary Arts Center (Cincinnati), Le Centquatre-Paris (Paris), Centre Pompidou (Paris), CAFA Art Museum (Beijing), and the Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego (San Diego).

An avid experimentalist, Vhils has been developing his personal aesthetics in a plurality of media besides his signature carving technique: from stencil painting to metal etching, from pyrotechnic explosions and video to sculptural installations. He has also directed music videos, short films, and stage productions.

VHILS, AKA ALEXANDRE FARTO

PORTUGUESE FASHION DESIGNER JESSICA ANTONIO IS THE FOUNDER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF HER EPONYMOUS LABEL J-ANT. IN A WORLD OF ‘FAST FASHION’ WE FIND OUT WHY SLOW AND STEADY WINS THE RACE

Words: SALLY DIXON

GO SLOW

WHEN IT COMES to fashion design our thoughts usually go to the high fashion centres of London, Paris, New York, Milan, but there are multi-talented creatives hiding in plain sight right here in the Algarve.

26-year-old Jessica Antonio is one such creative. An advocate of the ‘slow movement’ side of fashion where sustainability, the use of natural materials and historic techniques prevail. Consumerism is rampant in the fashion industry, an industry that leads us to believe we need to be updating our wardrobes with every change of season. Fast fashion hits the headlines, if we haven’t got the latest Gucci T or the new season Hermès sandals then who even are we? But at what cost?

The name behind the label

Founder and creative director of contemporary slow fashion brand, J-ANT, Jessica discovered early on in her fashion career that fast fashion wasn’t for her. A pivotal moment was a collaboration with a well-known Spanish brand during her Erasmus+ Programme.

“I would never want to work for a fast fashion company as a designer, it’s just not in me,” she says, “It’s not creative enough because it always must be scalable, versatile for a wide range of people and produced quickly.” She also soon discovered that bright colour palettes are not her vibe.

“I tried to do a whole collection for my end-of-year degree brand collaboration with Desigual, a company renowned for colour. Two days before the collection was due in, I decided none of it was working. I took it all apart and went to buy denim pieces at secondhand stores, dip dyed and bleached them, used hand embroidery

techniques, and produced something I was happy with. My designs were selected to be used as part of their archive, so I was happy I followed my heart. I learnt to always be true to myself and to follow my intuition, I can’t be pushed to do something I’m not comfortable with.”

FYI, don’t commission a customised garment with Jessica and ask for it in red – you know what the answer will be!

Finding a place

As a child growing up in Lagos, Jessica remembers crocheting and knitting from a very young age, “I was around five or six and I would play with my grandma’s sewing machine. She taught me how to crochet and all the basics of knitting and sewing when I was eight. I would make little clothes for my Barbies!” Age nine, Jessica moved to Holland and on graduating high school there suddenly realised a passion for the fashion world; she based her final art project on ‘fast fashion’ with a dress made from coffee cups and shopping bags. “Somehow, this interest in fashion came to me,” she says, “and I became more and more fascinated. When I graduated, I started making skirts and selling them to friends.”

Alongside her new-found love of fashion was a deep interest in business and economics. However, a short stint in Amsterdam studying the business of fashion made Jessica realise it wasn’t really for her. A change of heart led her to art school in Utrecht to study a four-year Bachelor of Design, a challenge, given she had to learn to speak Dutch!

In the Netherlands, Jessica worked with well-known Danish designers Anne Sofie Madsen and RWD Studio. “RWD studio taught me so much because it was a small brand and its Rosa really allowed me to be engaged in everything that encompasses a brand. She was an inspiration to me and still is,” she says. At Anne Sofie Madsen, Jessica fell in love with a technique she now uses regularly in her own collections – smocking. “It was a first love thing that I really enjoyed doing. During my time at Anne Sofie Studio, I was the only one who was allowed to do smocking for her garments. I created my own identity with that.”

Jessica’s final year J-ANT. collection created a buzz in Holland with press, stylists and model agencies. For the collection she collaborated with local, social impact brands like Granny’s Finest to make socks, and a sustainable footwear designer. “It didn’t make sense for me to be designing a collection and then have to buy shoes and accessories at H&M, which would go against my sustainability ethos,” she says.

Back home again

A fresh start in 2019 saw Jessica move back to her hometown of Lagos and the need to develop a whole new mindset to nurture new partnerships and become part of the Portuguese fashion bubble. “It took me a while to understand how to make connections and have a network over here,” she says.

The current J-ANT. collection, Yesterday/ Tomorrow, takes inspiration from memories of the past, old traditions and the tranquillity of the Alentejo, utilising handmade techniques such as embroidery, crochet, smocking and silk printing, all done in-house by Jessica. She adds: “My inspiration always comes from natural features, always connected to nature – either towards the sea or towards land. Shells, fossils, the cliffs in Praia da Luz – that’s my happy place!”

The upcycling, zero-waste ethos of the J-ANT. brand means that Jessica partners with shops like Nandi in Lagos to repurpose fabrics. “All the stuff that they can’t sell, I get to sort through,” she says. “A lot of men’s suits, sheets, duvets, crocheted doilies, and light-coloured denim.” (I personally love Jessica’s duvet jacket designs! Check them out on her Instagram @jantdesign).

She also uses dead stock fabrics purchased from local markets in her Holland days. Currently designing a one-off wedding dress, Jessica needs specific textiles for the project, so she makes sure to buy dead stock from Barcelona-based Recovo and incorporate natural rose petals.

Jessica’s designs have also found fame – with a handmade suit that took 54 hours of dedicated work to make, worn by Carolina Deslandes on The Voice Portugal, and a jacket worn by Edmundo Inácio during his performance with Eunice Muñoz.

Looking forward

A self-confessed ambitious and motivated individual, Jessica’s latest goal is to open a curated gallery space where she can showcase local, sustainable brands alongside her own collection and host unique events. The private launch of the concept store happened on 18 August and was a must-have invitation.

“For the first event we collaborated with @aboutwyld who do brunches in the wild. They have the same aesthetic as me, very natural, very raw, using natural colours – the same concept as J-ANT. but in food. I created aprons out of upcycled denim for the event and we recreated the wild inside the gallery space for a candlelit dinner.” A wonderfully creative meeting of two like-minded, earth conscious brands.

Buy Jessica’s unique pieces online at j-ant. com – prices start at €60 (accessories) and €140 (tops). You can also customise a piece to your own liking by commissioning her to create something special out of a garment you already own. Upcycling at its finest. Why follow the crowd when you can stand apart?

In her Lagos studio, Jessica handmakes her pieces using traditional materials and techniques

ARO HAS NEVER struck me as an amazing place to explore. It’s never been an exciting trip where I’ve been looking forward to the day with anticipation. The primary reason is that my trips to Faro have always been administrative, and looking forward to a few hours in a frustrating queue is not something I relish.

So I arrived in Faro the other day at dawn with a mission to film it for my YouTube channel. I launched a drone mission as close as I safely could to our Algarve capital. The Ria Formosa glistened through a rising sun and the beauty of the scene filled me with an excitement I had never felt around Faro. I walked the old town streets before the city awoke and history came alive around me as I strolled through the Arabic gate, noting that this was the main entrance to the sea. Ancient sailors had walked through this very portal, excited with the thought of a few days rest and no doubt some lively antics ahead.

I strolled on, the peacefulness descending on me like a soft blanket, dampening all thoughts of modern paperwork. My overriding feeling after a very busy day of filming is that Faro is full of contrasts: beauty and trash, graffiti and clean lines. A sea of cranes in Lejana heralds the arrival of future accommodations, whilst the stonework in the town points to a rich history.

Faro is a town of services, SEF has an office here in the Loja do Cidadão – an amazing concept in itself where all government services are concentrated. Forum Algarve Shopping centre is a nucleus for all things you need to buy in one go with ample parking below. For high street shopping Rua Santo Antônio snakes its way up from the marina, peppered with

In the nick of time

NICK ROBINSON DISCOVERS A SIDE OF FARO HE DIDN ’ T KNOW EXISTED AND IS SERIOUSLY IMPRESSED WITH WHAT THE ALGARVE ’ S CAPITAL AND ITS SURROUNDINGS HAVE TO OFFER

great restaurants, culminating in the grandest hotel of them all. The old Cine Theatre (a traditional building in most Portuguese towns) had been converted to a shopping centre. It has now been repurposed into the magnificent five-star 3HB hotel, which honestly and authentically showcases Algarvian roots through traditional artworks and mind-blowing interior decor. It’s something to behold and positively redefines the tourism offer of Faro, showcasing ten years of change where private restaurateurs, bar owners and hoteliers have uplifted the city from within.

Faro truly is a proud city now, well positioned to launch your journey throughout the region. It’s the political centre of the Algarve, the second largest urban area to Portimão but it carries off its size without tacky tourist towers lining the beaches. It’s the second largest council with regards to the number of businesses with Loulé Concelho taking the prize where 20% of the Algarve’s businesses operate. Faro comes in second with 14%, Portimão at 12% and Lagos 8%.

The islands are Faro’s biggest activity drawcard, the transport hub its biggest positive and negative –planes fly low over the city when the nortada blows and trains reach out across the region with bus services hopping around Faro and to neighbouring towns.

A new network between Olhão and Loulé promises to grow the region and a wonderful promenade has been initiated along the Ria Formosa, although sadly it’s falling into disrepair already. Let’s hope the whole waterfront along the Ria Formosa gets improved –it’s a wonderful opportunity to serve the locals and tourists of Faro alike. Have a look at my video, “FARO is changing! A detailed view of the Algarve’s capital” on the Algarve Addicts YouTtube channel.

Faro is the political centre, the second largest urban area to Portimão without tacky tourist towers lining the beaches.

On the tread mill

LAST MONTH WE TOOK YOU ON A JOURNEY OF EARLY HARVESTING IN THE ALGARVE. THIS MONTH, WE ’ RE UP IN THE DOURO, TREADING OUR WAY TO GLORIOUS NEW WINES

Words: LÍVIA MOKRI Lagares

YOU’VE ALMOST certainly seen the classic photo of people arm in arm treading grapes in Portuguese wineries, singing, laughing and loving every minute of the ‘Pisa a Pé’ experience, a lively, ancient tradition that dates back to ancient Rome, and brings together producers, tourists, and friends every year at harvest time. This foot-treading technique basically serves to increase the extraction of colour, aromas, and flavours from the grapes, and is one used by the Port wine producers in the Douro, a region which comprises thousands of vineyard plots, each with its own individual characteristics shaped by factors including the age of the vines, the varieties planted, and the sun orientation. All of these make the region a rich source of grapes for production of a vast selection of quality wines, where the grapes are trodden by foot in granite tanks known as ‘lagares’

A lagar is a low rectangular tank usually made of granite. The largest one can hold up to nine tons of grapes, although to produce wines it is not necessary to fill them to capacity.

Wine is the result of fermentation, the transformation of fruit sugar into alcohol. But before that process, there is the maceration stage. The grapes are kept in the lagares for a number of days during, which time the solid parts rise to the top of the tank to form what is called the ‘cap’. In the daily foot-treading process, the cap is punched down to keep it in contact with the must, so that the essential characteristics of the wine – its body, tannins, and aromas – are extracted.

Of course, not all of the harvested grapes are taken to the lagares; throughout the harvest, the best grapes are selected for the Reserve wines and those are chosen for treading.

The whole process is guided step-by-step by the winemaking team who decides how long each phase should last, as well as the winemaking techniques to be used at each point.

Pisa a Pé

The first stage of treading consists of crushing the grapes, which are still relatively hard, to release the juice and pulp from their skins. And in the next stage, the treaders move freely in the lagares, ensuring that the grape skins are kept submerged under the surface of the wine. This phase is vital for the production of quality Port wine.

Although expensive and laborious, Pisa a Pé is still the best way to achieve smooth but complete extraction.

The great advantage of this foot-treading process is that it removes the maximum of the skin and seeds, and also provides polyphenols, tannins, and other compounds, producing wines with depth of structure and flavour.

Currently, because of the labour and cost involved, most producers have switched to automatic presses, which are capable of imitating the movements of the human foot.

In case the producer chooses to do the maceration process by Pisa a Pé, the foot crushes the berries in a delicate way, which is more natural than the machine method, which simulates human movement.

Foot-treading allows for greater extraction of colour and aromas as the act of squeezing the grapes is more intense and time-consuming, increasing the contact of the skins with the must. It is the skins that will bring aromas, structure, and colour to the wine. With foot treading, crushing takes several hours, in contrast to the minutes it takes with an automatic press, in which unwanted elements such as seeds are broken down, giving a bitterness and herbaceous aroma to the wine. It is recognised that wines produced by foot-treading show aromatic intensity and character.

In addition, the width of the lagares allows a greater amount of liquid to have prolonged contact with the skins of the grapes. This traditional process lasts a few days, and the more intense and time-consuming, the more colours and flavours the wine will incorporate. This technique, however, is often only used for great wines.

In the case of the mechanical option, there is always the risk of breaking the pips, which would lend an unnecessary astringency to the wine. Foot-treading, on the other hand, avoids that risk. For Port wines, however, the wineries maintain the tradition of treading the grapes by foot.

Wine tourism

While most wine producers have, in fact, switched from the traditional Pisa a Pé method to the automatic pressing machine to save both time and expense, wine tourism does keep this thousand-year-old system alive, and there are wine producers in Portugal – mostly in the Douro region – who maintain this custom for the sake of tourists.

These wineries welcome, in addition to family and friends, curious and enthusiastic tourists who help them and leave with an unforgettable experience.

The presence of ancient granite or marble presses brings a special charm to any cellar, and the treading process itself is an attraction for thousands of tourists every year.

Pisa a Pé has a special charm, with people stepping on the grapes in a synchronized and rhythmic manner, a methodical process, which usually ends in a more relaxed, festive atmosphere.

When you participate in a harvest at a winery, you pick the grapes alongside the rest of the harvesting team. Here, you will gain a deep understanding of the work, which goes on in the vineyards throughout the year, and the various wine-growing techniques employed by the estate. This ‘learning’ experience concludes with the magical opportunity to tread the harvested grapes in the traditional lagares.

Grapes are traditionally trodden to music, with linked arms, cheerfulness, and – occasionally, but unsurprisingly – glasses of wine.

Before the treading, of course, all the participants wash and sterilize their legs and feet prior to climbing into the vat full of cold, ruby-coloured liquid.

But you don’t have to worry! The seeds also have an exfoliating effect so by the time the hour is up, your feet and legs will feel beautifully smooth. And be a shade of purple!

So, if you want to try this fun treading process, you need to participate in a harvest. There are many wineries in the Douro that warmly welcome you – here are just a few of them:

QUINTA DA PACHECA

https://quintadapacheca.com/pt/pages/harvestexperiences

QUINTA DA ROÉDA (CROFT PORT)

https://croftport.com/en/quinta-da-roeda-winetourism/grape-treading/

QUINTA DE VARGELLAS (TAYLOR’S PORT)

https://www.taylor.pt/en/port-wine-vineyards/ quinta-de-vargellas

QUINTA DO CRASTO

https://quintadocrasto.pt/wine-tourism/?lang=en

Pisa a Pé has a special charm, with people stepping on the grapes in a rhythmic manner, which usually ends in a relaxed, festive atmosphere.

food on the move

WE ’ RE NOT TALKING FAST FOOD HERE, BUT RATHER TASTY PLACES YOU HAVE TO PUT ON YOUR TRAVEL MENU, ESPECIALLY NOW WHEN THE EARLY AUTUMN MONTHS ARE PERFECT FOR NEW JOURNEYS OF DISCOVERY

Words: CLAUDIA DE SOUZA

THE SUMMER holidays may be over but the urge to travel will continue to be satisfied by visiting places that give us the feeling of escaping to different destinations without getting on a plane.

One of the best feelings in the world is to land in a foreign country and, before getting to the monuments and museums, begin to discover it through local aromas and flavours.

Food is culture, as we all know... but what if we do it the other way round? Staying in our homeland and visiting new places in favourite cities (in this case, Lisbon and Cascais) and choosing where to have a meal or to buy sweet somethings that make us feel that we just took a quick flight to another destination. Join us on a carefully planned journey of handpicked eateries that each offer something very different.

Opposite page: Dessert with a difference, at Animal, in the funky Hotel Hotel in Lisbon. This page top: Sítio Valverde; above: Dear Breakfast’s morning treat; left: Specials from the Chocolate Boutique in Lisbon’s Corinthia Hotel

TROPICAL Sítio Valverde

Hotel Valverde has always been an oasis in the middle of Lisbon’s busy Avenida da Liberdade and its restaurant, Sítio, an oasis with a plus: good, honest, comfort food.

Even in the cold season – seated outside, surrounded by all the lush vegetation, it is incredible how soon we forget the city traffic just a few metres away.

The news is this tropical urban retreat has a new chef: the perfect excuse (if any is needed) to go again ant try some of the delicious new dishes created by Bruno Oliveira.

Inspired by his roots in Angola as well as the freedom and closeness to nature of having grown near the beach – Costa da Caparica – Bruno favours true flavours and simplicity. Homemade food cooked with technique and beautifully presented. Some of the options even have that tropical touch, like the vegetable curry. The soups (the tomato cream is a dream for the palate!) are a good idea all year round, especially for lunch after a morning of serious shopping in the best stores of the capital.

Before leaving all this gentle greenery, a dessert: they change with the seasons but the rhubarb and strawberry fraisier is as good to the tastebuds as it is appealing to the eye!

Avenida da Liberdade, 164, Lisboa

T: 210 940 300

valverdehotel.com/restaurante

JUNGLE Animal

Next to the pool (the restautant is inside the funky hotel Hotel Hotel), a neon sign warns the visitors: “animals sleep/eat here”.

Well, not really. But the jungle atmosphere takes you on a relaxed journey far away from the centre of Lisbon.

What returns you to the capital is the friendliness of the staff who welcome anyone who comes for a meal or to any of the other facilities of the hotel that include a yoga room and a tatoo studio.

Lunch at Animal turns into a delicious trip around many different influences: the asian beef carpaccio or the wild broccoli are a good start before the lentil ragu or entrecote with mushrooms and pineapple.

Chef Pedro Ferreira Mendes always has vegetarian options and there are also some good sushi alternatives. In the dessert department, the matcha parfait is a just perfect.

When in doubt, feel free to chat to any member of the staff and ask for advice. This is an inclusive hotel/restaurant where you sense people feel happy working and that, as we all know, is something of a rarity nowadays. Also priceless is the location: not exactly on Avenida da Liberdade but in one small street that leads to it. Being transported to a jungle destination one minute away from Lisbon’s main avenue? That, for most of us, is the true meaning of luxury!

Animal Travessa da Glória, 22, Lisboa T: 211 164 120 restauranteanimal.com

NORDIC Dear Breakfast Santos

Brunch is a concept Portugal imported from northern European countries. And rightly so. The right offering in the right place is the way to start the day’s adventure.

We can no longer imagine our lives without the possibility of going to aesthetically beautiful places like the new Dear Breakfast in Santos, where you start your meal by enjoying the comfort of a place that feels like an improved version of home.

An old grocery shop was transformed in a café that adopted the simple lines of Nordic design. The kind of place that would be perfectly suited to cities like Oslo, Compenhagen or Helsinki but, fortunately for us, is in Lisbon.

The undoubted stars of the menu are the eggs. You can have them cooked in all the traditional ways (scrambled, Benedict, omelette, etc) but the turkish style (poached with middle eastern style yogurt) is a very welcomed variation.

Then there are the classics: avocado toast, Caesar Salad and – again, Nordic vibes – the delicious Northern Croque: a scrumptious toasted sourdough bread with bacon, tomato, fried egg.

And because no brunch is complete without pancakes, the sweet ones (there is also a savoury option) are to die for: cooked to perfection and topped with banana, caramel and pecan nuts. And to drink? A pink latte, of course.

Dear Breakfast Santos

Calçada Marquês de Abrantes, 146 T: 964 867 125

dearbreakfast.com

EUROPEAN

Companhia Portugueza do Chocolate

One of the fond child memories we all have of family visits to Brussels or Paris or Geneva for the first time is entering each cities’ beautiful chocolate stores, as delicate in design as jewellery shops, where gloved hands chose bonbons one by one and put them in sophisticated little boxes for us to take home, eat and always remember.

Luckily for us, an international hotel, the Corinthia, recognised the need to bring that unique experience to Lisbon and recently opened, inside its premises, the first Companhia Portugueza do Chocolate boutique.

Glamour is the word here. For starters, the chocolatier in charge, Daniel Gomes, created Glorious, the world’s most expensive bonbon – gold leaf and rare spices are involved in the composition. And besides chocolate truffles, and exquisite flavours like Champagne or gin, this is also the place to buy honey or olive oil flavoured with cacau or, if someone in your life truly deserves it, a box of chocolates, specially selected and with the words ‘I Love You’ carved in Swarovski crystals, is available.

Corinthia Hotel

Avenida Columbano Bordalo Pinheiro 105, Lisboa

T: 217 236 300 companhiaportuguezadochocolate.pt

SEASHORE

Lota da Esquina

Lota means fish market in Portuguese. The restaurant kept the name of what the building was in its previous life – Cascais’s main lota – and thanks to Vítor Sobral (one of the first chefs in the country to highlight fresh, local products in his menus) is now a fish-based restaurant, close to the famous city bay.

When you enter, you get a flash of blue and ocean references that immediatly transport you to an island or a village by the sea – that, in fact, Cascais really is. The high ceiling and the generous open space are refreshing details in a time and place where the square metre is so expensive that every centimetre counts. Here, you can move at ease, either sitting at the bar, on the outside terrace or at one of the comfortable tables.

Although fish is the star here, beef or tuna tartar are real musts and the chef’s seafood rice will have you saying: “I’ll be back for this”. Fried hake fillets with coriander and bivalve rice is also a good option.

Carnivore souls will love the meat dishes on the menu – especially the beef rib that is maturated for 21 days and quite irresistable.

Lota da Esquina

Largo Mestre Henriques Anjos 182

Edifício Lota de Cascais

T: 214 841 315

lotadaesquina.com

Opposite page top: Tomato soup with a difference at Sítio; below: the Chocolate Boutique in the Corinthia. This page: top: Lota da Esquina; below: a cocktail at Animal, and the now famous pink latte served at Dear Breakfast

Jim’s

Beautifully styled turbans, and an amazing collection of lightweight and affordable wigs. Used as part of your cancer treatment or simply for aesthetic well-being.

Private salon with complete discretion and care.

TURBANS

Casa J

Amor

FOR TWO YEARS WE HAVE FOLLOWED THE ADVENTURES OF TWO PARISIANS WHO FELL IN LOVE WITH THE SOTAVENTO ALGARVIO, OLHÃO, AND AN OLD EMBLEMATIC HOUSE IN THE HISTORIC CENTRE. CASA AMOR IS NEARLY READY TO OPEN ITS DOORS. IT ’ S ALMOST TIME TO CELEBRATE

Words: ELAINE JOYCE

ACK AND WALTER are both tired and excited by these past two years. They gave up ‘recognised’ jobs to become entrepreneurs; they left Paris for Olhão; they bought a ruin of 1,000m², opened a coffee shop and pop-up store. Walter perfected the art of French patisserie.

They closed the bustling pop-up last December, believing they would be ready to open Casa Amor in June. But legalities and building schedules meant they failed to meet the deadlines and had no choice but to review the business plan, which had included a high season opening. They had to renegotiate with the banks and explain themselves to Portugal 2020 and the European Commission. In short, they have not stopped... But ask them how they are coping and the eternal optimists respond: “Great! Tudo bem”.

“Of cours, getting out of your comfort zone is not so easy,” says Walter, “but we love our project, we are in a country that invented the peaceful revolution to get rid of the dictatorship, a region, east of Faro, which offers the best of the Algarve, and an endearing city full of promise.”

“And we now have good friends here,” adds Jack. “It’s important when the family is afar, but a drop in morale is quickly swept away by a picnic on the beach with a sunset and stars by the thousands. Here you can find the best and the worst in social networks, but we found only the best. We

HAIR ARTIST | HAIR PIECES | PRIVATE GYM

are supported by a community, the Friends of Casa Amor, who gives us energy, send positive vibes and are ready to join us as soon as we can open reservations. We are incredibly lucky.”

When it comes to best memories made so far, Jack has this to say: “For me, it was when we finally got the answer from Mrs Helena’s eight heirs, because no building means no project. The day we signed, the adventure really started.”

For Walter, its was the opening of the coffee shop in the Baixa. “When your friends and family tell you that they love your pastries, it’s nice but you know they’re forgiving and caring. Being in front of customers is another story!” (note: This is Walter being shy – customers loved his pastries.)

And the worst memory? Walter: “Without a doubt the receipts of renovation quotes! Even the cheapest of them was 40% higher than our goal. If we can give advice to your readers: you can never emphasize enough the maximum limit you can put in a project. We thought it was obvious, but it wasn’t. The return to reality has been very frustrating, we have had to revise quotes downwards, and deal with the loss of time.”

And for Jack? “It’s the duration of the work, more like a marathon than a sprint. At first, we were enthusiastic. Now, towards the end, we dream of finally being at home, to have the keys, to be masters on board, a crazy desire to clean and to be able to welcome guests. But those who have been there before have told us that we will forget the negatives very quickly.”

And to conclude this 24th chapter...

If Casa Amor was a colour?

“The blue like the blue sky of Olhão”.

If Casa Amor was a plant?

“A century-old olive tree, like the one on the patio.”

If Casa Amor was a landscape?

“The Ria Formosa, it is the soul of the land and the ocean.”

If Casa Amor was a song?

“The hymn to love, sung by Edith Piaf, for a nod to France and especially love. We all need a lot of love, today more than ever.”

If Casa Amor was a party?

“Christmas to re-find your childhood soul, the scent of mulled wine and chestnuts, family and friends around the fireplace.”

If Casa Amor was a dessert?

“A raspberry pavlova, a dessert created in 193 by a young pastry chef who was in love with the ballerina Anna Pavlova.”

If Casa Amor was a wine?

“Champagne, without any hesitation.”

The teams are now focusing on finishing the first floor, hoping to deliver the building by the end of September. The restaurant and kitchen are finalised, as are the coffee shop and the winter lounge. Platibandas have their final colour.

We have nearly reached the final chapter in our series, but so happy for Jack and Walter who are waiting to welcome you to their new story.

Getting closer by the day. It looks like an Autumn opening is finally on the Casa Amor menu, as the finishing touches complete a long and complex, but nevertheless joyous, story

BUILDING

IN OUR JUNE FEATURE ON CONTEMPORARY ARCHITECTURE, WE LOOKED AT MARIO MARTINS ATELIER ’ S MASTERPIECE, THE ELLIPTIC HOUSE, IN LUZ. READERS WANTED TO KNOW MORE ABOUT THE MAN BEHIND THE BUILD ...

Words: LUCY MAYER

A DREAM

GOOD ARCHITECT cannot exist without a good idea.” Those are the words of Mário Martins, the man behind Mário Martins Atelier, a team of architects with bases in Lisbon and Lagos, and it is from his office in the Algarve that Mário is talking to me today. Before we get started with our interview, he proudly proffers up his beautiful new book, the latest in his library of works where he is an author as well as an architect and designer.

Duo showcases the unlikely relationships between pairs of vastly different buildings. It’s definitely a book that both architecture and art lovers would want displayed on their coffee tables. It is clear from the outset that it is passion for his profession that drives Mário, and he is very clear that he values quality over quantity.

“You can’t do good architecture without having that real passion for it,” he says. And that is why you won’t find his buildings cropping up in abundance across the Algarve and Europe – Mário has to fall in love with a project in order to take it on, much like he fell in love with architecture more than 30 years ago when he studied at the University of Lisbon.

When starting a project, which can sometimes take many years to complete, hence the all-important quality over quantity ethos, Mário explains that a good architect will use their knowledge to work with the client to create what they want rather than what he would like to design and build himself. This is sometimes harder than it seems, especially for a man who never likes to tell a client “no” or “that is impossible.” And sometimes a client doesn’t even know what they want out of a build they have commissioned Mário and his team to manage.

This is where his expertise comes in and also why the first stage in the process is to fully engage and study the client, find out who they are and what they want. It doesn’t matter whether the commission is small or large in terms of size or budget; Mário’s passion and excitement are the same, and as he is keen to point out, architecture is essentially resolving an everyday problem, whether it is for a family needing more space in their home or a restaurant hoping to stand out from the crowd.

Teamwork

There can sometimes be as many as six people working on one of the Atelier projects, and when a difficult situation

Mário Martins is driven by his own passion to create buildings that have a unique personality and will stand the test of time

Below: Casa Lioz, at the top of a hill, has an outstanding view of an estuary and the outline of the golden cliffs that border the bay of Lagos. The house is reached by an organic path of ramps and steps. The various spaces, full and empty volumes, settle into the different levels of the land, where the natural light coming from the patios focuses on the deliberately winding paths

arises in the design process, they will work around it and come up with another solution. It is a matter of whatever the client wants as, at the end of the day, the project is about their vision, even if they have chosen Mário because they love his portfolio.

Sometimes the team will go through multiple versions of a design before a build is started and finished, which leads him on to another of his favourite words alongside passion... patience. A project can take many years to complete from initial designs to finding the land, submitting a planning application and getting approval.

A question that has to be asked here: how does contemporary architecture fits in a place like the Algarve, which is steeped in history and, away from the coastal resorts, overflowing with ancient buildings and cobbled streets that form many of the region’s towns?

Mário is clear here; his belief is that you have to respect the old buildings by building completely new ones. He says that older buildings should not be demolished to make way for modern structures. But at the same time, new builds should not be an appendage to an existing building of a historical nature.

A masterpiece of design

A perfect example of this sentiment is what has become arguably Mário’s most famous build. Elliptic House in Lagos completed in 2014, sits dramatically on a sloping cliff face. Completely separate and set away from the more traditional properties of the town, it is a brilliant visual explanation of Mário’s principal that contemporary architecture is kept separate from the historical so both can be admired and respected on their own terms.

Although Mário loves every project he completes, he particularly enjoyed this build. The landscape Elliptic House sits upon gave him the creative freedom to design and build this optically unique home; a space so large and empty, a real blank canvas.

Using the surroundings of the sea and the vast blue sky, Mário focused on brilliant white to reflect the sun that bounces off the cliffs, and fluid and cylindrical lines to reflect the shape of the coastal landscape.

Of this build, he says: “The home’s design is the result of an idea, which was then all but sculpted into the terrain. For a structure of such breadth, it certainly conveys a weightless feeling, as if it’s constantly in motion, twirling around itself as it concurrently twirls in place in the wild overlooking the sea.”

But in truth, those are just fanciful descriptions of what is a very carefully thought out and engineered design, one that is both intriguing and practical.

The various stages

Mário still starts his designs by hand despite having all of the digital tools available to modern man. He shows me his sketch book, which is a work of art in itself, brimming with ideas for future projects. Clients can take a look through it to see if any of his ideas fit their plans, or, if they are not sure about the type of build they want, they can use it for inspiration.

Here, Mário is not dissimilar to one of his favourite architects, British urban designer Gordon Cullen, who was a key motivator in the townscape movement post-war; his techniques consisted largely of sketchy drawings that conveyed a particularly clear understanding of his ideas.

Mário’s client’s chosen design is put onto a computer and 3D models are made, which the whole team can access and continually

update and remodel as the project progresses.

Mário does not have a favourite material, he is happy to work with all materials and colours and is keen to use the right ones for the job. He does, however, favour natural materials that age well and are sustainable and renewable like stone and wood and, like a lot of his peers, he does not want to use plastic.

Many of Mário’s clients may steer towards a build similar to something they have seen on social media that is very on trend at the time. But, he says, the key is to resist what could fast become outdated and a fad. As he is quick to point out, your project, especially if it is your home, is something you will have to live with for a very long time so it should be something that you will want to look at for many years, despite how fashions may change.

It is the internet, unquestionably, which has opened Mário’s work up to the world. Anyone can log onto his website and see his treasured designs for themselves. However, it hasn’t come without its problems. Although the digital inventions of the last decade have undoubtably made parts of his job easier, Mário says people across the world are looking at the films and photos of his finished projects online and trying to recreate them, which will never work.

Although it is flattering, with access to his mind, something he has designed and built could never truly be recreated. Mário tells me that he has seen replicas of his work in many corners of the world created by admirers, but more to the point, by people who do not want to or are able to pay him for his design services.

The result, sadly, is a lesser finished product, often built with materials not suited to the surroundings. This is a downside of digitalisation as he sees it.

Currently, Mário is working on the designs for his latest top-secret Algarve-based project, in which he is engrossed in working around any problems that have arisen.

I ask him if this is his favourite build so far, and, with the excitement of a child, he tells me that his favourite project will always be the one he’s working on. He tells me that this is always the way because if he thought what he did the last time was the best he could do, then there would be no point in continuing.

So, yes, for the time being, this very unique build, which will hopefully be revealed sometime in the not-too-distant future, will hold a special place in Mário’s heart, until he’s ready for his next architectural adventure, that is.

MARIO MARTINS ATELIER Rua Francisco Xavier Ataíde de Oliveira, Lote 31/32, Loja P, 8600-775 Lagos

Casa Libre is composed of dichotomies, where intimate and snug corners can be found, but is also surrounded by breathtaking views. The house allows itself to be taken over by the garden, a living element that grows and changes with the seasons

The power of Pilates

IF YOU THOUGHT PILATES WAS A BIT OF A TAME EXERCISE REGIME THAT DOESN’T DO MUCH, THEN THINK AGAIN. THERE ’ S A WHOLE WORLD OUT THERE ENJOYING ITS BENEFITS

Words: SALLY DIXON

I’LL APOLOGISE now if I’m a tad effusive about Pilates. Full disclosure: I’ve been a qualified comprehensive Pilates teacher for ten years and I love it!

Originally developed in the early 1900s by German circus performer and boxer, Joseph Pilates, it continues to grow in popularity to this day. The beauty of Pilates is that it can be done by all ages and fitness abilities. It can be the gentlest of exercise regimes and also one of the most challenging. It’s all in the execution of the movements.

During my time as a teacher, I’ve had many super-fit clients and gym-strong men be pleasantly surprised at how hard some of the exercises can be when performed correctly.

Joseph Pilates’ famous exercise programme was developed when he was interned on the Isle of Man during the First World War. While there, he created a rehabilitation routine for the injured prisoners of war, using the beds they were laying in and mattress springs. The modern-day version of this is the Pilates reformer, a unique machine that can support and challenge you at the same time, the machine that made me fall in love with this incredible wholebody exercise practice.

The key principles

Pilates works on integrating body, mind and spirit by focusing on nine principles, strengthening not only muscles but the connection between body and brain. Balance, coordination, flexibility, lengthening of muscles, strength and posture all come into play by working on these principles.

1. Breathing

2. Concentration

3. Control

4. Centering

5. Precision

6. Balanced muscle development

7. Rhythm/Flow

8. Whole body movement

9. Relaxation

Pilates is a great way to stay mobile in advancing years. As the man himself once said: “If your spine is inflexibly stiff at 30, you are old; if it is completely flexible at 60, you are young.”

Done in combination with other training regimes like running, tennis and weight-lifting, the improvements in performance are noticeable. It’s why many professional athletes consider it key to their training programmes.

Perhaps one of the best things about Pilates is you can do it anywhere – no fancy machines required (although there are some pretty fancy ones if you want the full equipment experience).

Mat Pilates involves your own body weight against gravity so can be equally, if not more challenging depending on how you execute the exercises. A good instructor will always check your limitations before the class and give you lower impact adaptations to each exercise.

Improved posture, core strength, flexibility, balance and a leaner body results: heck, I even used it to rehab an excruciatingly painful herniated disc when the back surgeon told me I’d need a steroid injection into my spine (no thank you!). Joseph Pilates famously said: “You will feel better in ten sessions, look better in 20 sessions and have a completely new body in 30 sessions.” What are you waiting for?

PLACES TO DO PILATES IN THE ALGARVE

The Campus, Quinta do Lago thecampusqdl.com/pt/activities/fitness/47575/pilateshiit/Reformer

Pilates Algarve, Loulé reformerpilatesalgarve.com

Contrology Pilates, Almancil and Faro contrologypilates.pt

Studio 51 Pilates, Almancil Instagram: studio51pilates

Uno Pilates, Almàdena / unopilatesschool.com

5 Pilates exercises 1

All Fours Abdominals

On the mat, adopt a ‘tabletop’ position with wrists under shoulders and knees under hips. Imagine your back is a tabletop, keeping a long line from the crown of your head to the base of your spine. Tuck the toes and press palms firmly into the mat.

Keeping the arms straight, inhale. On the exhale, draw your belly button up towards your spine (without changing the shape of your back) to engage the abdominals and hover the knees 2 inches off the mat. Hold for 5 seconds and release. Repeat 10 times.

Pump the arms for 50 counts maintaining the breathing sequence of in for 5 and out for 5 then relax the head, neck and shoulders back to the mat. Repeat if you are able.

4Bridging

Lie on your back on the mat, knees bent and feet flat hip distance apart, arms resting on the mat either side of the body.

Inhale to prepare and on the exhale press your feet into the mat and start to curl the pubic bone towards the belly button to lift the lower spine off the mat. Engage through the glutes and hamstrings as you lift, lengthening through the thighs.

2

Marching Lie on your back with knees bent and feet flat, hip distance apart.

Reach your fingertips along the mat to bring the shoulders away from the ears.

Keeping the tailbone down, float one leg at a time to a 90-degree angle.

With both legs in the air bent at 90-degrees, inhale, then exhale and draw the belly button towards the mat as you tap one foot down on the floor. Inhale to bring the leg up and exhale to tap the opposite foot to the floor.

3The Hundred Lie on your back on the mat, knees bent and feet flat hip distance apart. Inhale and reach your arms up towards the ceiling with your wrists over your shoulders.

Exhale and engage the abdominals to float the head, neck and shoulders off the mat as you lower the arms by the side of the body until they are parallel with the mat.

Keeping the arms engaged and straight, inhale to pump your arms up and down for 5 counts maintaining a stable position with the torso. Exhale to deepen the abdominal connection and pump the arms for a further 5 counts.

As you come up into the bridge position try not to over arch the lower back. Pause at the top, take an inhale, then on the exhale start to lower the body back down to the mat starting with the upper back, mid-back and finally lower back. Stay reaching long through the thighs as you lower down one vertebrae at a time back to the start position. Repeat 6-10 times.

5Swan

Lie face down on the mat with legs outstretched, hands by the side of the rib cage, elbows pointing to the ceiling, pubic bone pressing into the mat. Inhale, then on the exhale press the hands in to the mat and imagine you’re rolling a marble with your nose towards the top of your mat, lifting the upper body into extension and gazing forward. Stay long through the back of the neck (like a swan!), shoulder blades drawing down the back and shoulders away from the ears. Come up only as far as you feel comfortable. Inhale, and on the exhale slowly lower the upper body back down to the mat. Repeat 4-6 times.

As always, be mindful of any pain and listen to your body for when to stop or if anything feels uncomfortable.

art expo

Algarve

PORTUGAL’S LARGEST INTERNATIONAL ART FAIR, A BRILLIANT CELEBRATION OF MODERN AND CONTEMPORARY ART, WILL OPEN ITS DOORS THIS MONTH AND INTRODUCE A VAST AUDIENCE TO THE WORKS OF BOTH LONGSTANDING NAMES AND FRESH NEW TALENTS GETTING

ESTABLISHED NOW

Words: CAROLYN KAIN

ART EXPO ALGARVE, to be held in Portimão this month, includes fine galleries and more than 200 emerging and internationallyestablished artists and galleries representing 30 different countries; the exhibition encompasses a glorious selection of paintings, photographs, illustrations and sculptures.

Epitomizing the excellence of the Algarve, Galeria Côrte-Real is bringing together a variety of work created by local and globallyrenowned artists. Many will be available to talk to the public about the subjects included in their artworks, their creativity and personal techniques. The stand will comprise a diverse assortment of styles including Roman Markov’s remarkable triptych depicting the city of Porto.

Inspired by extensive travels around Portugal, Roman Markov is a celebrated artist

of Ukrainian descent. He trained in Kiev, arriving in the Algarve 20 years ago where he has established a prominent reputation. Absorbing the architecture and the culture of his second home, his depictions of Portugal are famous.

His three paintings of Porto, seen as one continuous panorama, portray the country’s second city. Its red-roofed buildings are perched upon a granite cliff, clinging to the steep and cobbled streets. Markov accurately illustrates the tenement houses, their faltering wrought iron balconies and lines of flapping laundry. Overlooking the River Douro, the precarious existence of these buildings defy belief; between them lanes and narrow staircases climb up and down at perilous angles. Clearly residents need a head for heights!

When the first Romans arrived in this area they clustered round the Douro’s mouth. Naming the settlements on either

side of the river, Portus and Cale, a ferry service connected the two. Together they were known as Portus-Cale and this name eventually became connected to the surrounding province.

In the 12th century, a newly independent country came into existence and it was entitled Portugal. The original Portus became Porto, prefaced by the definite article ‘o’, meaning The Port. It is the Anglicized version that combined ‘o’ with Porto so that the name Oporto was born.

Today the city’s charm has become an inspiration for many urban artists but few can depict the architecture with Markov’s degree of accuracy. He intrigues his audience, imagining the lifestyles of the people who live behind each window frame. In the past, in sight of the Douro, Philippa of Lancaster and her son Henry the Navigator lived here, but Porto has not stood still. Markov’s triptych preserves its present day atmosphere.

ART EXPO ALGARVE

21-24 September 11:00–21:00

Portimão Arena Fairs and Exhibits Park (free entry/ wheelchair accessible)

We’re buying!

SEND US PHOTOS

Send us some basic images to give us an idea of what you wish to sell. WhatsApp: 916 432 881 or email: sales@kitandcaboodle.pt

LET’S SEE

If your items meet our criteria and we feel they will sell, we’ll arrange a date to come and take a thorough look. After that we’ll email an inventory of the items along with an offer for purchase.

LET’S GET SHIFTING

We will liaise with our partners Algarve Express and agree a mutually convenient date to collect the goods.

GRATITUDE

We check off the items as they are delivered, pay you for them as agreed and say thank you very much for working with us.

of the month...

Beetroot and radish toast

AN EXTRAORDINARY COMPOSITION FROM ONE OF PORTUGAL ’ S STANDOUT CULINARY TALENTS – PEDRO DE SOUSA, EXECUTIVE CHEF OF RESTAURANT O JARDIM IN LISBON. THIS PLATE OF LAYERED TASTES AND TEXTURES GIVES A WHOLE NEW MEANING TO THE TERM OPEN SANDWICH. IT ’ S WORTH EVERY SECOND OF THE MAKING

INGREDIENTS

 500g beets

 200g soft cheese – fresh mozarella, burrata, stracciatella or requeijão, as long as it is a soft cheese

 500g pão de sementes

 5g spicy horseradish

 20g capers

 salt to taste

 1kg of white sugar

FOR THE LACTO-FERMENTED RADISH (and there’ll be plenty left over to use in other dishes)

 10g salt

 500g radishes, washed and cut in half Toss the radishes in the salt and place in an airtight and sterilized container. Store at room temperature for four to five days, but open daily to release any gas present.

METHOD

1 Roast the beets wrapped in aluminum in the oven for about 45 minutes at 180ºC. Then peel and reserve the skins.

2 Slice the beets to a thickness of 0.5cm.

3 Place the beets in a sugar syrup of 1kg of sugar with 1L of water, flavoured with black peppercorns, coriander seeds, liquorice and pink pepper.

4 Bake the beet skins in the oven at 100ºC for 20–30 minutes to let them dry out. When cool, pulverise them to a powder in a blender or by hand in a pestle and mortar.

5 Meanwhile, fry the capers in hot oil for 3–4 minutes, then place on a paper towel to remove excess oil.

6 To serve, place a slice of bread on each plate, top with the soft cheese, then the capers, beetroot slices and fermented radishes. Sprinkle with the beet powder and scatter with oxalis leaves (wood sorrell) if you have.

The mouth of Krishna

OPENING THIS MONTH AT IN THE PINK, THE ALGARVE ’ S PREMIER SPECIALIST IN FINE ART PHOTOGRAPHY, IS AN INSPIRED EXHIBITION OF WORKS BY BARCELONA-BASED ALBARRÁN CABRERA, THE CREATIVE DUO THAT EXPLORES EMOTIONS OF THE PAST, THE PRESENT AND THE FUTURE

Words: SUSI ROGOL-GOODKIND

WORKING collaboratively for close to 30 years, Angel Albarrán and Anna Cabrera create dreamlike photographs designed to trigger subjective associations correlating to the cultural background and past experiences of the viewer who will often relate images to their own personal pathways, dreams, and reminiscences.

“We are our memories,” Angel and Anna say. “They define what we are and help us to understand our reality.”

The duo’s artistic practice stems from multiple cultural references in literature, painting, film, science, and philosophy, bringing together both occidental and oriental perspectives of seeing and understanding the world around us.

Through their works, they strive to visually represent complex subjects such as time and space that written language frequently complicates and obscures.

Albarrán Cabrera regard their photographs not just as images but as objects in their own right: they personally handcraft their prints using a diverse range of traditional and experimental printing techniques, including platinotype, cyanotype, and gelatin silver print processes, as well as pigment printing on metallic gold leaf and smooth, satin-like Japanese gampi paper. They achieve their rich chromatic effects by toning their prints with selenium, sepia, and tea. This array of materials and methods widens the parameters

Albarrán Cabrera

The Mouth of Krishna, #749, 2018

Albarrán Cabrera The Mouth of Krishna, #60197, 2016

Albarrán Cabrera The Mouth of Krishna, #60109, 2016

of image-making and takes advantage of the expressive possibilities of photography.

The Mouth of Krishna is Albarrán Cabrera’s first solo exhibition in Portugal. The artworks selected present a subtle and yet striking range of visual poetics that transport viewers to a universe of enchanting places and timeless moments.

The title of the exhibition, and of the series presented in it, was extracted from a traditional tale of Hindu culture in which young Krishna, the supreme god of protection, compassion, and love, gets his mouth examined by his mother, only to reveal in it the complete endless universe. All the stars and planets; all the lands and seas; all ideas and all emotions; all pity and all hope, along with the ultimate realisation that in any part of the universe there is a whole universe.

The work of Albarrán Cabrera has been shown in galleries and photo fairs in France, Germany, Italy, Japan, Lebanon, The Netherlands, Spain, Switzerland and the United States, and is held in private collections and institutions such as Hermès, Goetz Collection, Banco de Santander, Fundación de Ferrocarriles Españoles among others. They have also produced work for several institutions like Fundació La Pedrera in Barcelona, Fundació Toni Catany in Mallorca, Reina Sofia Museum in Madrid and Barcelona Photographic Archive.

TWO BY TWO

How much forward planning goes into each work and what is the starting point? The reality we inhabit makes us wonder. This curiosity about knowing has created an urge in us to learn and to spend time thinking and reflecting. This learning period is the starting point of any work we have done so far.

Are there impromptu situations when you come across something unexpected that captures your minds and imagination? Yes, but these situations usually take place before shooting. In fact, it is when something attracts our attention and triggers our imagination that we start the process of acquiring a deeper knowledge about it.

Do you have a favourite time of day to work and what makes it special? Same for seasons of the year? For us, photography is a tool to understand reality, and what we do – what can be considered our work – is learning; the process is continuous. In that sense, our lives and our photographic activity are inextricably interlinked.

If you could choose any country or region to spend time and adventure, where would it be? Any country or region in the planet can be special, but it is true that the more different from our culture a place can be, the better for us, because different points of view and different ways of experiencing reality is what can enrich you the most.

What is the longest time you have spent on a single project? Our series are part of on-going projects. We do not close our series and we work in a continuous cycle of activities: investigation, learning, shooting, selecting, experimenting in the darkroom, printing and starting again. In each cycle we learn and change, so we see it as a natural evolution.

How much time do you spend travelling? In general terms, we barely travel. In our photographic

practice we first study, read and feed ourselves with ideas, concepts and knowledge from different sources. Then, we go out to photograph. We think that our brains change whenever we learn new things. Photography is not only a craft or an art but a tool to help us better know and understand our reality. So for us, photography goes far beyond the capture of an image; it has become our way of life. That means we no longer travel for sheer pleasure, but rather for the sheer joy of our work.

Which artists – living or not – do you most admire and why? We admire many of them, from writers to painters, from philosophers to mathematicians. To name a few, the photographic work of Luigi Guirri; the paintings of Giorgio Morandi or Lee Ufan; the work of theoretical physicists as Richard Feynman or Carlo Rovelli; the mathematical work of geniuses like Bernhard Riemann; the cinematic world of Stanley Kubrick, Wong Kar-Wai or Christopher Nolan; the literary work of James Joyce, Joseph Conrad or Juan Rulfo; the Japanese graphic design of the 60s and 70s; the world of comic, manga and anime artists such as Matsumoto, Satoshi Kon or Moebius… it is a very long list because in any discipline you can find ideas that can be an inspiration.

What are you most looking forward to about the forthcoming show at In The Pink? As with any show, we would love to connect with the people who visit it. Hopefully our work will encourage them to raise questions about their reality.

Albarrán Cabrera

The Mouth of Krishna, #922, 2018

All images courtesy of the artists and In The Pink, Loulé

visit

Setúbal

SETÚBAL, A COASTAL GEM SOME 50 KILOMETRES SOUTH OF LISBON, ENTICES VISITORS LOOKING FOR EXQUISITE FRESH SEAFOOD, HIDDEN ADVENTURES, STUNNING SCENERY AND DELECTABLE REGIONAL WINES

Words: KAYLA MERINHO

WHETHER YOU’RE on a quick day trip from Lisbon looking to sample cuttlefish, discover iconic buildings and explore attractive neighbourhoods, or you’re wanting a one-of-a-kind experience, Setúbal has it all. And it’s just a two-hour drive from the Algarve, so perfect for a time-away break.

Located between the Atlantic Ocean and the Sado River, Setúbal has a history that dates back to the Phoenician and Roman periods, forming a city noted for its fishing legacy and industrial accomplishments.

While visitors enjoy experiencing the city’s attractions such as Forte de São Jorge, São Filipe Castle, the Monastery of Jesus, Livramento Market, and breathtaking vistas, Setúbal genuinely shines beyond these sites, giving a secret haven for immersive nature tourism experiences.

The Arrabida Natural Park to the west and the Sado Nature Estuary to the east surround the city, providing a harmonious blend of calm nature observation, exhilarating land-based adventures, wine tasting against scenic backdrops and invigorating sightseeing opportunities.

But while there is a feast of suggestions for a day to explore Setúbal’s range of historical insights, artistic tapestry and vibrant festivals, our primary focus is on uncovering the lesser-known treasures: Setúbal’s exceptional nature tourism.

Arrábida Natural Park

Arrabida Natural Park is a haven for outdoor enthusiasts looking to get away from the bustle of the city and spend time in unspoiled wilderness. This vast park, which includes the imposing Arrabida Mountains, provides a wide variety of outdoor activities to satisfy the wanderlust of all visitors.

The park features hiking paths that meander through dense forests, flowing streams and towering cliffs. The Trilho das Pontes Suspensas (Suspension Bridges Trail) features suspension bridges that offer a bird’s-eye view of the surrounding nature.

For those with an appetite for more challenging endeavours, the Arrabida mountains provide exceptional routes that reward climbers with breathtaking vistas. In Arrabida, three spots – Outão, Fenda and Fojo dos Morcegos – are suitably equipped for climbing.

Discover Portinho Arrabida, a beach hailed as one

of Portugal’s Seven Natural Wonders. It is tucked away within a beautiful inlet that mimics the rich vegetation of the neighbouring mountains. In addition to its spectacular beauty, discover its distinctive flora and marine life beneath the pristine waters.

Alternatively, there are several coastal trails that offer a unique opportunity to locate secluded beaches that appear to be nature’s well-kept secrets. Approach these trails with caution and ensure you’re well-prepared. Wear sturdy hiking boots with good traction if you want to stay safe while exploring these less-travelled paths. Keep in mind to maintain the delicate ecosystems near the coast by removing all signs of your visit.

Coasteering along Setúbal’s rocky coastline combines hiking, swimming and adrenaline-filled excitement. Exploring marine caves, diving into crystal-clear seas, and taking in the breathtaking splendour of where the land meets the sea are all possible while coasteering.

Uncover Setúbal’s hidden underworld through speleology, exploring the region’s fascinating caves and caverns. This unique activity combines adventure and discovery as you delve into the Earth’s mysteries.

There are more creative ways to explore the area.

- Cycle around Azeitão’s vineyards and stop at local

Setúbal is a city that has it all for those looking for an urban adventure, and those seeking more of a nature trail with wide open spaces, stunning view points, hidden beaches – you name it

wineries for tastings. Cycling enthusiasts of all skill levels can enjoy the varied terrain’s pleasant rides.

- Embark on a horseback riding excursion through Arrabida’s scenic trails. Through guided horseback riding excursions, you can see the natural splendor up close and develop a bond with these magnificent creatures.

- Join a jeep safari in the Arrabida mountains. Knowledgeable guides will navigate unpaved roads and hidden trails, offering stunning views of Setúbal’s landscapes and potential sightings of native species.

- Experience the thrill of flight as you hang glide over Setúbal’s breathtaking landscapes. Hang gliding is a memorable sport for thrill-seekers since it offers a distinctive perspective of the coastline, the mountains, and the city below.

The Sado Estuary

A marvel of salt flats, tidal marshes and waterways, the Sado Estuary captures the delicate balance between land and sea. It is a conservation area that reveals wetlands teeming with birds, marshes, and the presence of dolphins. It offers diverse activities, allowing visitors to forge unique and enduring connections with nature.

The Sado Estuary attracts a wide variety of avian species, making it a haven for birdwatchers. Marvel at the vibrant flamingos, striking spoonbills and elegant herons as they glide over the serene waters and mudflats.

Dolphin viewing is another enchanting activity, immersing you in a magical experience. Join boat cruises that travel deep into the estuary so you can see joyful bottlenose dolphins leaping and playing in their natural environment.

A boat tour around the tranquil waters lets you uncover secluded coves, remote beaches, and the harmonious juncture of land and sea.

WHERE TO EAT...

Azeitão Xtoria Dive into a captivating tasting experience, featuring innovative takes on traditional Portuguese dishes, at this fine Michelin-accoladed restaurant.

Rua Guilherme Gomes Fernandes 17 961 284 144 xtoria.pt

O Batareo Fresh fish by the kilo. Select from a daily assortment of fresh catches grilled to perfection before your eyes. Don’t miss their Salmonette specialty.

Rua Das Fontainhas n. 64265 234 548 facebook.com/profile. php?id=100057085915195

O Anzol A quintessential Setúbal establishment adorned with contemporary interiors and an admirable hospitality. Relish their delectable fried cuttlefish, a local dish of Setúbal.

R. Barão do Vale Nº7 937 360 061 facebook.com/ RestauranteOAnzol/

Tasca do Galo Located in the heart of the city, this tavern serves delectable grilled meat sandwiches, delivering quality without breaking the bank.

Largo São Tiago 967 613 869 facebook.com/p/ Tasca-Do-Galo100063621398636/?locale=pt_ PT

WHERE TO STAY...

Near the city

Hotel Bocage Nestled in Setúbal’s core and named in honour of a celebrated artist, this hotel places the city’s rich tapestry of culture and history at your doorstep.

Rua de São Cristóvão 14 265 543 080 hoteisbocage.com

Quinta de São Filipe

A picturesque haven that masterfully marries urban vibes with mountain calmness.

CCI 3112

925 001 780 quintasaofilipe.com

Near to Arrabida Mountains

Biovilla Sustentabilidade

Tailored for the environmentally minded traveller, this establishment offers a cost-effective eco-tourism experience, placing nature’s splendour at the forefront.

Herdade de Pinhal Basto, Vale de Barris, CCI 4238 2950-055 Palmela 21 235 1224 biovilla.org

YMCA Camp Alambre

Experience raw, unfiltered nature near the Arrabida Mountains. Simplicity and accessibility to mesmerizing mountain trails define this rustic retreat.

Avenida da Bela Vista 38 265 739 540

YMCA Camp Alambre

Pousada Castelo de Palmela

Located a stone’s throw north of Setúbal, this abode combines historical allure with breathtaking regional panoramas. Castelo de Palmela

2950-317 Palmela 21 235 1226 pousadas.pt/en/hotel/pousadapalmela

Hotel Casa Palmela Seek out a lavish retreat at Hotel Casa Palmela. It’s a splurge but guarantees an unmatched blend of luxury and proximity to the Arrabida Mountains.

Quinta do Esteval, Estrada Nacional 10, Km 33,5 265 249 650 hotelcasapalmela.pt

Near to Sado Estuary: Comporta Side Glamping

Treat yourself to the best of both luxury and sustainability. This unique stay offers chic dwellings set amidst the beauty of the Sado Estuary.

Rua da Liberdade 913 121 414 comportaside.com

For the calmest conditions of the estuary, choose guided tours from Setúbal or take a ferry to Troia. Watch out for the elegant flamingos that adorn the scenery.

Delve into Setúbal’s age-old fishing culture with authentic fishing and seafood adventures. Join local fishermen for an authentic fishing trip, then embark on a culinary tour to enjoy your catch transformed into mouth-watering meals.

For a more active experience, dive into the placid waters or engage in kayaking, canoeing, or stand-up paddleboarding. You’ll be surrounded by lush foliage and a variety of wildlife, making for wonderful aquatic adventure.

Conclude your estuary visit with a mesmerizing sunset. Take in the sun’s dip below the horizon as it paints warm hues across the expanse of water from a vantage point along the shoreline, or while sailing on a sunset cruise.

Wine of the Region

Nestled within the Arrabida Natural Park, the Quinta da Bacalhôa estate is both a historical and oenological haven. Explore its luscious vineyards, historic cellars, and stunning sculpture that adorns the gardens.

Experience their prestigious wines, including the renowned Moscatel de Setúbal, in a setting that honours centuries of winemaking know-how.

Another must-visit for wine lovers is the estate of José Maria da Fonseca. Venture to the iconic winery, an esteemed establishment rooted in 1834.

This family-owned estate boasts a legacy of producing exceptional wines, including the renowned Periquita label. Guided tours offer insights into the winemaking process, while tastings reveal the nuanced aromas of Setúbal’s highly respected wines.

DAY TRIPS

For those looking for a quick day excursion to experience local cuisine, art, culture, and history:

Praça de Bocage This historical main square provides an ideal venue for peoplewatching, as well as opportunity to sample local cuisine, enjoy live performances, and soak up the atmosphere near the extended fountain.

Casa da Cultura Engage in the cultural scene of the city at this location where many artistic expressions converge.

Mosteiro de Jesus Dive into history by visiting this monastery, which bears witness to Setúbal’s rich history.

Albarquel Urban Park

Immerse yourself in the serene embrace of this park where nature meets the coastline.

Doca de Pesca Take a look at the bustling fishing port that offers a glimpse into the city’s maritime operations.

Doca do Comércio

Experience the bustling ambiance of this commercial port area.

Miradouro de São Domingos

Climb to this vantage point for jaw-dropping panoramic views.

Forte de São Filipe Do not miss this 16th-century stronghold with a chapel decorated with São leisure tiles.

Mercado Do Livramento

Enjoy the incredible variety of fresh seafood here, which is open from Tuesday through Sunday from 07:30 to 14:00.

Casa Da Baia Uncover a municipal heritage site housing tourism information, musical programs, art exhibitions, and sculptures.

Avenida Luisa Todi Traverse along this main pedestrian street, immersing yourself in the city’s bustling energy.

Jardim do Bomfim Encounter captivating sculptures within this expansive garden. Relax and enjoy.

Street Art and Murals

Setúbal’s streets are adorned with vibrant street art, adding a creative dimension to your exploration.

BEACHES TO EXPLORE

Figueirinha One of the most well-known beaches in the area, Figueirinha is a well-liked vacation spot that comes alive in the summer.

Praia dos Coelhos An idyllic getaway from the masses, swimming and snorkeling in pristine seas. This is a hidden gem tucked away in a cove.

Galapos Its spotless sands and clear waters offer an oasis for rest and introspection.

Tróia Peninsula Only a short ferry journey away, it has some 18 kilometres of immaculate beaches and even a golf course.

EVENTS

Setúbal hosts a series of vibrant festivals and events that highlight the city’s traditions: São Sebastião Festival January and August, honouring the patron saint of Setúbal. Religious processions, lively parades, traditional music, and local food, infusing the streets with a unique blend of spirituality and festivity.

Carnival February/March, a dazzling extravaganza of costumes, music, and dance, with colourful parades, elaborate floats, and vibrant street parties.

Feira de São Tiago July/ August, spans around ten days, filled with fun, gastronomy, and music.

Our Lady of Anunciada Festival September, celebrates Setúbal’s maritime heritage, and includes a procession on the Sado River, where boats adorned with flowers pay homage to the patron saint of fishermen.

Observanatura

This annual October event has a focus on ornithological tourism and welcomes birdwatchers to explore various points of observation in the Sado Estuary.

Setúbal Christmas Market December, capturing the holiday spirit, the Christmas Market offers handcrafted gifts, decorations, and seasonal treats in a joyful setting that invites locals and visitors to share in the festivities.

need-to-knows

silvers

HAVE YOU EVER THOUGHT OF INTRODUCING A SILVER THEME IN YOUR GARDEN? APART FROM THEIR DRAMATIC AESTHETIC EFFECT, THERE ARE MANY OTHER MEDAL-WORTHY REASONS TO CONSIDER

Words: BURFORD HURRY

HAVE YOU and your garden recovered from the merciless heat of the summer? Mine is slowly adjusting to cooler days. Even the burnt leaves on my aloes are gradually assuming their normal colour and beginning to look sleeker and plumper. It was certainly hot these past months.

During the summer siege, I would look at the trees around me – and in particular the olive tree on the other side of the river – and was reminded how her leaves were occasionally silvered by a gentle breeze. And my thoughts turned to using silver foliage in the garden.

I have always flirted with the colour. Years ago while still living in Southern Africa and on holiday in the Algarve, I was fascinated by the silver metallic prickly leaves and the blue cone-shaped flowers of the sea holly (Eryngium maritimum) and so I took seeds from the plants that grew on the sands of the Trafal dunes near Quarteira and propagated them back on the Highveld in South Africa.

The fine hairs or powder covering the silver leaves of many plants deflect the sunlight, thus protecting them from the sun’s fierce rays. In addition, most of these plants will grow happily in poor to good well-drained soil and do not need much water, and so will help us achieve a more water-wise garden. All these, having similar growing conditions, also mean that they are able to form happy plant communities.

Start planning

If you are tempted by the thought of a silver patch in your garden, think bold and dramatic. Start now to take cuttings or slips of silver leafed plants from friends’ gardens, or buy seedlings from nurseries and markets. Look for any of the different artimesias or echeverias like Echeveria laui, cotyledons like silver leafed Cotyledon orbiculata, crassulas like Crassula arborescens, the silver jade plant or silver Arctotis acaulis. The latter I got as a tiny slip from a plant that had escaped from the garden fence and spilled onto the pavement.

Keep your eyes open for Angel Wings senecio (Senecio candicans ‘Senaw’) as being beautiful they are in demand and difficult to find. Also remember that the Mediterranean Garden Association of Portugal will be having its Autumn Fair (28-29 October) in the FISSUL exhibition halls in Silves, and there will be a dazzling choice of plants. When buying, think of multiple rather than individual purchases. Silver plants, particularly the smaller ones, make more of a statement collectively than individually.

Once you have the back up of silver cuttings and seedlings in your nursery, you will be ready to start planting in early spring. Choose a sunny area that has poor but reasonably fertile, well-drained soil.

Keep your silver space simple. You could begin by planting Cotyledon orbiculata, a succulent that is propagated without difficulty from cuttings, and while growing reasonably quickly is easily shaped.

If you want your cotyledons to be more shrubby, leave the leading shoots or snip the leading shoots off if you want them to hug the ground. Once they are in the ground put sea holly between them. Just remember that sea holly has long deep tap roots so plant them where you want them to stay.

You could always add one or two artemisia (Artemisia absinthium) at the back of the area. Pinch out the leading tips of the artemisia and let the lateral branches explore the spaces between and around the sea holly and the coteledons. I would choose a variety of artemisia that has very lacy leaves and is relatively low growing. There are several varieties.

Silver charms

You might also think of a silver and grey succulency (a wide herbaceous border made up of succulents) instead of an ordinary herbaceous border. Keep your eyes open for Mexican silver grey echevaria such as Echeveria laui and once obtained be bold and plant them close to one another in irregular pools along the edge of the bed.

Use Cotyledon orbiculata occasionally either as neighbours on the edge of the bed or behind the Echeveria and intersperse them with angular and delicate Silver teaspoons (Kalanchoe hildebrandtii), a succulent from Madagascar. Towards the back of the succulency, plant grey kalanchoe ‘Oak Leaves’ with the dramatic occasional silver felted Kalanchoe beharensis behind

Previous page: Main: Chalk sticks Curio repens; small: eryngium maritimum. This page: lefy: Leucadendron argenteum; right: echeveria laui; below: Senecio candicans

them; again, with the latter snip out the growing tips so, the plants first grow sideways rather than up. If you let this kalanchoe grow up it will dominate the bed rather than be part of it.

Or would you prefer a more leafy, silver garden? If so plant a herbaceous border using Lamb’s ears (Stachys byzantine) in front of the bed with silvery-leafed Rose Campion (Lychnis coronaria) with its rose magenta flowers behind them. Cut the campions back after flowering to prevent them from becoming invasive.

You could include Dusty millers (Jacobaea maritima), which grow in small silver clumps, and once again choose those whose leaves would complement their neighbours. They, like artemisias, have broad leaves, ferny or lacy leaves. Santolinas (Santolina chamaecyparissus) could also be included.

Convolvulus cneorum is a lovely addition as she produces simple and attractive white flowers as well. A stunning silver-leafed plant Angel Wings senecio with her gently scalloped and spoon shaped leaves would be a beautiful addition to your silver patch but she requires a slightly richer soil and is often difficult to find.

There are also silvery leafed shrubs and small trees such as the Bush Germander (Teucrium fruticans), which has pretty pale or dark blue flowers, and the silver cassia (Senna artemisioides) with tiny yellow blossoms. They could be used to dramatic effect with the purple smoke bush (Cotinus coggygria). The Silver Tree (Leucadendron argenteum), a kind of protea which grows on the slopes of Table Mountain on the Cape peninsular, is probably the most beautiful silver leaf tree as it has soft silky metallic leaves which make them shine; unfortunately they are difficult to grow as they like acid soils and reasonably temperate growing conditions.

And if you feel that silver patches or silver succulencies would be too dramatic a change for your garden, definitely consider the excitement of having a splash of silver sea hollys or a fringe of Lamb’s ears in the middle of your green herbaceous border. Silver would generate a whole new ambience in your garden.

COOL AS a cardigan

WHEN IT COMES TO WARDROBE ESSENTIALS, FEW PIECES RIVAL THE CHARM AND ADAPTABILITY OF THE CARDIGAN, WHETHER YOU OPT FOR A TIMELESS DESIGNER LABEL OR A ONE-SEASON SPECIAL

Words: PIPPA O'KEEFE

FROM ITS humble beginnings as military uniform to its position as a versatile fashion staple, the cardigan has seamlessly woven itself into a must-have autumn essential.

As the weather cools after our long hot summer, cardigans prove to be steadfast companions. Lightweight and breathable fabrics, like cotton and linen are ideal for layering up a summer dress, and during autumn and winter months, you can top a pair of jeans with a thick and chunky cable-knit cardigan for a cosy chic look.

Growing up in Portugal, we’d always enjoy our summer holidays in the UK and since I can remember I adopted a love for my nana’s cardigans, relocating them to the Algarve for the cooler evenings of September. Still to this day her humble button up numbers are my most loved autumn essentials.

Whilst granny-chic might not be for everyone, nowadays cardigans are a true fashion chameleon and are available in various lengths, fabrics and styles to suit any occasion. You can dress a bikini with a crochet crop-short cardi or don some stylish Gucci knitwear, or even rock out in a weathered Kurt Cobain style coverup. Versatility, thy name is cardigan.

A bit of history

From Cavalry to Coco Chanel, the cardigan has undergone a captivating transformation. Its origins date back to the Crimean War (1853-1856), where James Thomas Brudenell, the 7th Earl of Cardigan led the failed Charge of the Light Brigade at the Battle of Balaclava. Brudenell’s troops wore knitted waistcoats as part of their uniforms, and whilst his military career came to an untimely end, his knitted fashionwear met with great success.

The design of these early cardigans was simple, and they were typically made from wool or other natural fibers. Fast forward to the 1920s, when Coco Chanel played a significant role in elevating the cardigan’s status from practical to fashionable. She loved wearing them herself so decided to produce a comfy yet stylish button-down garment. Her revolutionary designs broke the traditional gender norms of the time, making the cardigan a garment that could be worn by both men and women.

Looking forward

Transcending norms is what makes the cardigan a unisex icon, and at a time where gender fluidity is so topical, we can appreciate why this garment does not go out of fashion. Its multifaceted designs, shapes, and array of colours and patterns makes it accessible to everyone, regardless of personal sense of style, personality or gender.

Beyond its versatility and inclusivity, we need to pay homage to the cardigan’s sustainability credentials. In recent years eco-friendly fashion movements have shone extra limelight on production methods and the development of materials. Ethical brands have embraced the art of hand-knitting and focused on creating highquality, long-lasting pieces that stand apart from massproduced, fast fashion clothing.

Portugal is a real trailblazer in the celebrated craft of ethical knitwear and has its own rich textile and knitting traditions, which are often techniques passed down through generations, resulting in unique and intricately-designed pieces.

Portugal’s knitwear industry has been embracing sustainable and eco-friendly practices for many years, focusing on local production, ethical sourcing of materials, and reducing environmental impact.

MUSTIQUE MANGO

MASSIMO DUTTI

CHANEL

Not a Portuguese brand, but a house at the forefront of the cardigan’s success, Chanel is a timeless choice. Their cardigans are made with high-quality materials and precision tailoring, ensuring that you are investing in a garment that will last for years to come. Cashmere and mohair and shades of green, black and burgandy make for an amazing two- piecer in the new season’s collection. chanel.com

ECOLA PORTUGAL

Family owned by three generations of Portuguese wool experts, Ecola is an institution in the craft of weaving and manufacturing unique products. The brand originates from the village of Manteigas in the Serra da Estrela, a place of incredible natural beauty and rather cold winters. The Fred Rogers style 100% Bordaleira sheep wool cardigan is a cosy stayhome number. ecolaportugal.com

FRANCIS STORIES

Ditch the itch and pile on the detail with this Portuguese natural knitwear company. Francis Stories ethically crafts woolen garments that stand out for their extremely soft and comfortable touch. They are the antidote to fast fashion, they want their customers to wear their designs for years. Francis-stories.com

GUAJA

Founded by two sisters and their mother, Guaja is a Portuguese brand paving the way for ethical knitwear. Their garments are handmade and designed in Portugal, and they adopt a zero plastic policy. Their cardigan shirt is your wear to brunch or sunset drink cardi. It’s slightly oversized and made from a mesh of cashmere and wool. guajastudio.com

LARANJINHA

LARANJINHA

Laranjinha is a gorgeous 100% Portuguese brand for babies and kiddies produced by a network of local makers within a 50km radius of its company base. Cute as a button cardis for boys and girls are just like the ones favoured by their elders! laranjinha.com

MANGO

With lots of stores dotted around the country, Mango is a great place for a cardigan bargain. The high street retailer has taken its own green initiatives by choosing more respectful materials such as recycled fabrics and durable materials in their garments. The handmade 70s-style lace knit cardigan (and there’s a matching skirt) says you’re not quite ready to say goodbye summer. It would go nicely unbuttoned with a dress or on its own buttoned as a top with a pair of white jeans. shop.mango.com

MASSIMO DUTTI

Men’s cardigans have come a long way since the battlefields and male style icons such as David Beckham and Daniel Craig are really paving the way for the suave knitwear look. We like MD’s zip-up cardigan made from at least 55% ecologically-grown cotton, produced using natural fertilizers and pesticides. massimodutti.com

MUSTIQUE

Mustique is a Lisbon-based fashion brand founded by childhood friends Vera Caldeira and Pedro Ferraz. This is a fun brand whose colourful designs can be worn day to night. The brand’s relaxed fit 100% Portuguese cotton cardigan is unisex and is perfect for pretty much every occasion. mustiqueworld.com

NAZ

This Portuguese brand is eager to deliver fashion made fairly by respecting both people and natural resources. They get big ticks for being B corp certified, being transparent about their supply chain and producing products with surplus fabrics. Their cosy cable knit cardigans are a must-have for your autumn wardrobe. Made from 100% recycled material they are a classic touch to any outfit. It’s a great option for morning dog walks. naz.pt

RORORIRI

The cardigan is so versatile that even our four-legged friends can wear one. Rororiri’s designs are honest, timeless and elegant. They put emphasis on high quality textiles and comfortable silhouettes. This knitted number is ideal Algarve apparel for the cooler evenings out on the town. rororiri.com

ZARA

Any Algarve shopping trip is most likely to include old faithful ZARA. Lately they’ve become really transparent about the composition, care and origin of their garments. The cropped cardi includes 30% Recycled Content Standard (RCS), which helps limit the consumption of raw materials. zara.com

INTRODUCING...

Joining the AlgarvePLUS team is Pippa O’Keefe who grew up in the Algarve and has travelled throughout Portugal for many years. She runs a tailor-made travel agency and a PR and marketing business, Pippa Rose Communications, which helps small brands with big ideas.

NAZ

ZARA

GUAJA ECOLA

FRANCIS STORIES

RORORIRI

of the month...

A RARE OPPORTUNITY

IF YOU HAVE DREAMED OF OWNING A GRAND MANOR HOUSE WITH CENTURIES OF HISTORY AND VAST DEVELOPMENT POTENTIAL, THIS SENSATIONAL ESTATE COULD TURN YOUR DREAM INTO REALITY

 Currently with a total of 12 bedrooms, this magnificent manor house retains many of its fine original architectural features, thanks to the loving care of the family owners.

 Towering ceilings, wide corridors and majestic archways add to the grandeur of the property and could form the distinct character of a luxurious boutique hotel.

 The main house, of 680m2, is on two floors: on the ground floor there is a spacious living room with fireplace, two dining rooms, a large kitchen, an office, three bedrooms and one bathroom. There are a further seven bedrooms and two bathrooms on the top floor.

 The estate includes the Caretaker’s House with two bedrooms, courtyards, verandas and wood ovens; warehouses (where wine, olive oil and fruits were once stored); the coach house, stables, a spring, boreholes and well.

 The land surrounding the house can be used for further development: the building of an additional 1,000m2 is permitted.

 Total area 32,000m²

 Built area 1,300m²

 Year constructed 1880

 Energy rating E

 Price: €3,500,000

 Ref: 7Q23123

Character and charisma in rural São Brás. On an an impressive 32,000m² of land, this property has the making of a fine boutique hotel or grand family residence

BEDROOMS

12 large character bedrooms with high ceilings and views

POTENTIAL

All the ingredients needed for a luxury small hotel

THE PROMISE

Peace, tranquility and security – the perfect mix

OUTSIDE

Carob, almond, olive and fruit trees and a large pasture, area

FULLY booked

LAST MONTH, WE ASKED READERS WHETHER THEY OPT FOR HARD COPIES OF THEIR NEW READS, OR GET THEM DELIVERED TO THEIR KINDLE, OR CHOOSE TO CLOSE THEIR EYES AND LISTEN TO THE AUDIO VERSION.

DAWN ANNANDALE SAID NO ONE WOULD HAVE A BIT OF THIS AND A BIT OF THAT. AND SHE WAS RIGHT. KINDLEES WANTED NOTHING ELSE AND NOR DID BOOKSHOP VISITORS. AUDIO USERS DID SAY THEY GOT DISTRACTED, THOUGH

Book of the month

BIRDS OF PREY

By Wilbur Smith

Publisher: Zaffre

Genre: Historical Fiction

The first in a trilogy which begins in 1667, this is a swashbuckling masterpiece.

Set off the coast of South Africa and the many surrounding islands, Francis Courtney is a privateer and a decent honourable man. His mission is to fill his ship with spoils from fighting the Dutch and return to England fully laden. The war between the Dutch and the English continues apace.

Sir Francis, his son Hal and their crew are carried around the southern tip of the African colonies by the good ship Lady Edwina, licensed to attack and seize the treasureladen ships of the Dutch East India Company. When they capture a Dutch trader and hold the passengers to ransom, Sir Francis hopes only for a good price and a small sense of satisfaction.

But this is unlawful territory they sail in. An unexpected betrayal will mean the men on board will face greater peril than they have ever faced before – and many good men may never see home again.

This series has everything: heroes and villains, fighting, slavery, sex, passion, love, loyalty and betrayal... Wilbur Smith is renowned for his books set in and around Africa and Birds of Prey is the beginning of an incredible journey for Hal whilst simultaneously delivering us valuable history lessons we all need to learn from.

WILD THINGS

By laura Kay

Publisher: Quercus

Genre: Romance

El is in a rut. She’s been hiding in the photocopier room at the same dead-end job for longer than she cares to remember; she’s sharing a flat with a girl who leaves passiveaggressive smiley face notes on the fridge and, worst of all, she’s been in unrequited love with her best friend, effortlessly cool lesbian Ray, for years. When a plan is hatched for El, Ray and two friends (newly heartbroken Will and karaoke-and-Twilight-superfan Jamie) to ditch the big city and move out to a ramshackle house on the edge of an English country village, it feels like just the escape she needs. Despite being the DIY challenge of a lifetime, Lavender House has all the makings of becoming the commune of the friends’ dreams. But, as they start plotting their bright new future and making preparations for a grand housewarming party to thank the surprisingly but wonderfully welcoming community, El is forced to confront her feelings for Ray; the feelings that she’s been desperately trying to keep buried. Is it worth ruining a perfectly good friendship for a chance at love?

I’m not a huge fan of chick-lit, but you have to admire this author for writing a funny, happy, emotional book about life as a young gay person today. It can’t be the easiest place to be but hopefully, lovely stories such as this help by ‘normalising’ what is already normal.

CHECKMATE IN BERLIN

By Giles Milton

Publisher: John Murray

Genre: Military History

Berlin was undisputedly a mess in 1945. The Yalta Conference carved up Germany among the victorious powers – the United States, Britain, France and the Soviet Union. On paper, it seemed a pragmatic solution; in reality, once the four powers were no longer united by the common purpose of defeating Germany, they wasted little time reverting to their pre-war hostility toward one another.

The veneer of civility between the Western allies and the Soviets was to break down in spectacular fashion in Berlin. Rival systems, rival ideologies and rival personalities ensured that the German capital became an explosive battleground. The warring leaders who ran Berlin’s four sectors were charismatic, mercurial men, and Giles Milton brings them all to rich and thrilling life here.

We meet unforgettable individuals like America’s explosive Frank ‘Howlin’ Mad’ Howley, a brusque sharp-tongued colonel with a relish for mischief and a loathing for all Russians. Appointed commandant of the city’s American sector, Howley fought an intensely personal battle against his wily nemesis, General Alexander Kotikov, commandant of the Soviet sector. Kotikov oozed charm as he proposed vodka toasts at his parties, but Howley correctly suspected his Soviet rival was Stalin’s agent, appointed to evict the Western allies from Berlin and ultimately from Germany.

Checkmate in Berlin recounts the first battle of the Cold War – an exhilarating tale of intense rivalry and raw power, it is, above all, a story of flawed individuals who were determined to win. Milton does a masterful job of weaving between all the key players’ motivations and thinking at every turn. A story of unprecedented human drama, it’s one that had a profound, and often underestimated, shaping force on the modern world, the repercussions of which reverberate today.

THREAD NEEDLE

By Cari Thomas

Publisher: Harper Voyager

Genre: Fantasy

Within the boroughs of London, nestled among its streets, hides another city, filled with enchantment and the belief that magic is the first sin; it must be controlled. Ever since Anna can remember, her aunt has warned her of the dangers of magic. She has taught her to fear how it twists and knots and turns into something dark and deadly.

It was, after all, magic that killed her parents and left her in her aunt’s care. It’s why she has been protected from the magical world and, in one year’s time, what little magic she has will be bound. She will join her aunt alongside the other Binders who believe magic is a sin not to be used, but denied. Only one more year and she will be free of the curse of magic, her aunt’s teachings and the disappointment of the little she is capable of.

Again, not my favourite genre but this title has something special. It’s considerably more grown up than Harry Potter and very clever. I love the parallels between the worlds and the fear of magic – all very clever and just shows what control can achieve.

HUNGRY GHOSTS

By Kevin Jared Hosein

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

Genre: Fiction

I loved this book because it’s a social commentary of a time and location so unknown to me. Fascinating, informative and thoroughly entertaining.

The story of two families colliding in 1940’s Trinidad and a chilling mystery that shows how interconnected their lives are. Trinidad was, at this time, nearing the end of American occupation and British colonialism.

On a hill overlooking Bell Village sits the Changoor farm, where Dalton and Marlee Changoor live in luxury unrecognisable to those who reside in the farm’s shadow. Down below is the Barrack, a ramshackle building of wood and tin, divided into rooms occupied by whole families.

Among these families are the Saroops; Hans, Shweta and their son, Krishna, all three born of the barracks. Theirs are hard lives of backbreaking work, grinding poverty, devotion to faith and a battle against nature and a social structure designed to keep them where they are. But, when Dalton goes missing and Marlee’s safety is compromised, farmhand Hans is lured by the promise of a handsome stipend to move to the farm as a watchman.

Hungry Ghosts is deeply resonant of its time and place while evoking the roots and ripple effects of generational trauma and linked histories; the lingering resentments, sacrifices and longings that alter destinies and the consequences of powerlessness.

Lyrically told and rendered with harrowing beauty, this is a stunning piece of storytelling and an affecting mystery, from a blazingly talented writer.

Left: Pão de Alfarroba, sometimes made with walnuts. Below: Pão de Mafra, an artisanal bread made with wheat and rye flours. Bottom, left: Traditional Easter bread, Folar de Páscoa

Portuguesebreads

THERE ’ S MORE TO LIFE THAN YOUR SLICED WHITES. ONE TRIP TO YOUR LOCAL PADARIA OR PASTELARIA AND YOU ’ LL SEE WHAT ’ S ON OFFER. GET TO KNOW THE VARIATIONS, AND IF YOU FANCY TRYING YOUR HAND AT BAKING, FOLLOW ONE OF THE RECIPES LINKS WE ’ VE INCLUDED

Words: LAURA SHEA

P

ART OF MOST people’s daily routine involves a trip out to buy provisions from their local shop or market and this is because so much of what is on offer is best consumed that day, or by the following morning at the latest. Bread is a speciality everywhere and each area of the country had its specific version of a traditional loaf due to the ingredients available and how well its wheat or corn grows.

Pão Alentejano or Trigo do Alentejo is an easily recognisable bread due to its wonderfully bizarre knobbly shape. Possibly one of the most popular breads in Portugal, this loaf has a long history dating back 2,000 years to the Roman occupation. With its pleasing taste and rustic roots, pão Alentejano could be made at home, however it does require a wood oven to get the true earthy texture it is known for. This is definitely one to purchase from your local bakery as they will have the recipe honed to perfection. Ideal for sandwiches, you can also use this bread to make acorda (leftover bread soup), migas (savoury dumpling cakes) or a pudim de pão (sweet bread pudding).

Pão de Milho is a great all round pleaser when it comes to loaves. Made from corn, this bread is an ideal partner to a great seafood soup or cheese board. Popular in the north of Portugal due to the idyllic conditions for growing corn, you can make it yourself at home or ask your local bakery for their version. Resembling a really good sourdough, the bread is thick and with a crumbly crust, and makes the best deli style sandwich as it is robust and strong. Layer cold cut meats, tomatoes and some chilli jam for a stunning lunch, and enjoy the slight

sweetness that comes from this cornbread. (https://foodgeek. dk/en/broa-de-milho-portuguese-corn-bread/ )

For something more traditional and a great staple to have for visiting family or friends is Pão de Forma. These thick slices which make the most fantastic toast (Torrada) are a common sight in cafes in the mornings. Typically served with butter, jam and a coffee, the tradition of starting your day with this treat is routine to the Portuguese, and I can see why! The bread is light and fluffy, and is also used to make toasties due to the thickness. Pão de forma is used in a dessert called Fatias Douradas, which is essentially a delicious cold version of French toast rich in cinnamon flavours and sugar.

Another must have bread is the Papo-seco, which we all recognise as the roll used for pregos and bifanas. Translated as ‘dry throat’ the name might make people wary of this initially, but the texture and taste are heavenly. A true favourite throughout the country, whether filled with pork or served with butter alongside chouriço it is going to be well received. You can make these rolls at home, but I wouldn’t bother when every pastelaria or supermarket sells them by the bag load. They do have a short shelf life, and as with so many Portuguese breads, these are best bought in the morning and consumed on the same day. A tip if you want to refresh your buns, is to sprinkle with a little bit of water and them pop into a warm oven for five minutes. (https://leitesculinaria.com/282693/ recipes-papo-secos-portuguese-rolls.html )

is rich in minerals and vitamins and therefore a healthy addition to our diets. Often used as a replacement for cocoa, carob is packed full of antioxidants and health benefits, so it is easy to see why it is such a popular ingredient in the area. This bread has a sweet and nutty taste and I think is perfect served at breakfast time. Pão de alfarroba toasted in the morning and drizzled with some rosemary honey from Loulé market is a great way to start the day. Team it with a pot of strong coffee and you’ll be in heaven. (https://www.easyportugueserecipes. com/carob-bread-pao-com-alfarroba/ ) (https://saboreiaavida. nestle.pt/cozinhar/receita/pao-de-alfarroba)

Folar de Páscoa will be a familiar sight around Easter as a soft bread with an egg baked into it, representing the rebirth of Christ. Traditionally baked and given as gifts to godparents as a thank you for their support and guidance through the year, this bread is readily available to purchase from bakeries and supermarkets any time from February onwards. The folar can be sweet or savoury, and should be tried as a seasonal treat; Olhão is famed for one variety made up of several layers of dough with cinnamon and sugar. Savoury offerings can be found in different regions, and may be stuffed with meats as well as the hard boiled eggs.

(https://www.justapinch.com/recipes/bread/sweet-bread/folarda-pascoa-portuguese-easter-sweet-bread.html )

For the more adventurous of us out there, the Pão de Deus is worth a taste. Named the bread of God, the small bun looks innocent at first but packs a punch of flavour. An interesting combination of savoury and sweet, this bread can often be spiced with vanilla and rum and is topped with sweet coconut. It can be eaten on its own, almost like a muffin, but the real joy comes when using this to make your regular old cheese sandwich something truly special. If you fancy making this at home, you can play with the flavours and make it to your specification, but getting the coconut topping right is the key. (https://chipabythedozen.com/en/pao-dedeus-portuguese-bread/ )

A quintessential taste of the Algarve shouldn’t be missed if you find this treat, Pão de Alfarroba. Historically linked to the Moorish occupation, carob

For a festive treat usually seen around Christmas time, Broa de Avintes is a beautiful blend of rye, malt and corn flours which results in a dense loaf. Still made the traditional way by cooking in a wood-fired oven, this bread is dark and rich and full of comforting flavours. Where available, you can buy it already sliced to take home and enjoy with fish pastes and cured meats, or you could buy an entire loaf which can weigh up to 9kg! Resembling the well-known German rye breads, the Portuguese version may take some getting used to due to the sourness so for a first try pair it with a delicious soup for dipping. This is actually fairly simple to make at home and you can soften the consistency if you prefer a lighter slice with the same full flavour. (https://www.easyportugueserecipes. com/broa-de-avintes/ )

Right, clockwise: Pão de Deus with coconut topping; papa seco, that familiar roll for bifanas and other meats; Pão de Milho, corn bread

Branching out

TREE SCULPTORS AND LEAF BARBERS HAVE BEEN DEMONSTRATING THE CRAFT OF TOPIARY SINCE BEFORE THE TIME OF CHRIST. REQUIRING SPECIFIC SKILLS, THESE CREATIVE GARDENERS IMPRESS THE PUBLIC BY POLLARDING THE NATURAL WORLD INTO UNNATURAL SHAPES. THERE ARE PLENTY OF EXAMPLES OF THEIR HANDIWORK ON DISPLAY IN PORTUGAL

Words: CAROLYN KAIN

THE ROMANS were the first to document the fashion of cutting trees and shrubs into fantastical shapes. When not commanding troops abroad, Julius Caesar, who had a key role in the conquest of Portugal, was intrigued by topiary. It was introduced to him by Gaius Calvinus who spoke of ‘Topiarius’ the ornamental gardener. In turn, Caesar and other wealthy Romans popularised topiary from Italy across the Empire. We can be almost certain that the gardens of stylish villas like the one in Milreu near Estoi were adorned with low parterre hedges, geometric orbs and botanic obelisks.

When the Roman Empire ended, so too did most aspects of pleasure gardening. People living in

cities were sheltered behind walls for protection. They had other more serious issues to be concerned about and topiary would have been regarded as a frivolous waste of time. Only monks and nuns continued to trim their herbs and courtyard hedges. Topiary was mostly forgotten and its roots lay dormant for around 900 years.

Back in fashion

It was during the Renaissance in Italy that geometric topiary made a fashionable comeback. In France, the gardens of Versailles were an extravagance of symmetry, and in the Netherlands a new twist was introduced. As well as cones, globes and pyramids, gardeners manicured complicated figures such as animals, furniture, tunnels and pavilions. They trained hedges into labyrinths and mazes and across Europe many large estates

copied the example. By the middle of the 17th century, the Dutch, and especially their gardeners, had established a reputation for horticultural excellence.

It was around this time in Portugal that topiary emerged as a form of garden decoration. It progressed rapidly especially in the north of the country with wealthy families creating striking compositions to surround their homes. An unparalleled example is the Casa do Campo in Molares. It has an entrance way consisting of two monumental cylinders carved from Camellia japonica. The garden contains some of the oldest camellia trees in Portugal estimated to have been planted 250 years ago. It is one of the only places in the world where camellias have been used to form arches. Other unusual features created from vegetation include full-size summer houses and sun umbrellas cleverly cut to resemble their real-life counterparts. The gigantic scale of the topiary rivals the grandeur of the house with its Baroque architecture.

A similar Baroque masterpiece, the Solar de Mateus – pictured on bottles of rosé wine – has a garden filled with fresh foliage shaped into arches, scrolls and arabesques. A tunnel of cypress trees forms a grand walkway and from there long lines of hedges radiate into an open aspect.

Other examples where garden-artisans use their skills to prune vegetation into prescribed shapes are the Casa de Juste in Lousada, the Parque de Serralves in Porto and in the Algarve, Estoi’s Palace garden. Open to the wider public – even to nonresidents – the gardens, which are arranged on three levels, resemble Versailles in style.

All of the previously described gardens are manicured to such an extent that they might not be to everybody’s taste. Famously, in a satirical

essay written by Alexander Pope in the 18th century he longed for the picturesque rather than looking at fashionable gardens filled with topiary. He mocked the appearance of deformed figures adversely affected by the English rain! Picking a plant that suits the climate conditions is paramount.

Planting to prune

Holly, Yew, Boxwood, Hebe, Phillyrea and Pittosporum all lend themselves to topiary. Better still – here in Portugal for beginners looking for quick results – a pot containing Prunus lusitanica ‘Angustifolia’ – Portuguese laurel is a suitable starting point. It’s a tough plant with glossy darkgreen leaves that does well in sun or part shade. Because of its compact growth it shapes neatly into topiary balls. Selected by the Royal Horticultural Society for an Award of Garden Merit, a row of Portuguese laurel bushes planted close together can easily be shaped into blobs to make what gardeners refer to fondly as a ‘blobbery’!

Topiary can be fun!

Nowhere is this more evident than at Disney World and the Epcot Centre’s International Flower and Garden Festival. Held annually, it features Disney characters old and new. To create a replica of any cartoon character requires a team of artists and horticulturalists. It starts with a ‘Disney Imagineer’ who designs a maquette figure and 3D models. A skilled welder makes a frame, an irrigation expert adds watering mechanisms and then gardeners fill the frame with earth and plants. The operation requires a lot more expertise than a pair of shears and a vegetative dream!

In the Algarve, using some similar techniques but entirely different materials, the Sand Sculpture Exhibition in Porches is worth a visit. It continues until 17 November.

Previous page: Variations on a theme. This page: right, clockwise: Palácio de Estoi; Epcot Center at Disney World; Casa de Mateus

Portugal is the 11th largest home textile exporter in the world. Towels, tablecloths and sheets are produced here. And blankets! A whole world of Portuguese blankets.

The most famous is the Burel blanket. Burel is a resistant and durable fabric made from 100% sheeps wool and was traditionally used to make warm blankets and shepherds capes.

A road trip through Portugal brought us to the heart of the country and the Serra da Estrela Mountain Range - the birthplace of the Burel. Here the grass is greener and the air is crisper and vast numbers of sheep are grazing.

At the beginning of this century the knowledge and culture of making the Burel blanket was almost forgotten, the weaving factories abandoned and most of the old machines were standing still as the world had been spinning too fast for handcrafted textiles.

Then in 2006, a Portuguese couple from Lisbon fell in love with the breath-taking scenery of the Serra. They bought and revived one of the old weaving factories, keeping the old machines from the nineteenth century, and installed a new generation of weavers who had been taught by the elder loom masters. Together with a generation of young designers, a whole world of blankets with

fresh colours and new designs was born.

My selection of Burels include colourful variations of old patterns called vintage 1956 or vintage 1968 alongside those in plain subtle colours.

But if it’s still too warm to consider a woollen blanket, my summer version is a lightweight cotton which comes in two patterns, two sizes and about twenty different colours. The choice is yours.

HOMES: Rua das Lojas, Rua 5 de Outubro nº 68 .

FASHION AND ACCESSORIES: Rua José Fernandes Guerreiro, nº39

OPEN: Monday - Friday 10.00-13.00; 15.00-18.00; Saturday: 10.00-14.00

T: +351 964 222 612 INSTA: martina.loule / martina-loule.com

CORK

Taken: March 2023, São Brás

Camera: Sony A7RIII

“So many items are made from cork that is harvested right here in the Algarve. I enjoyed learning about how cork oak is grown, gathered and even safeguarded during our tour at the Eco Cork Factory Tour in São Brás. Cork plays a vital part in the region’s economy and is also important to the cultural heritage of the area.”

Keyword: Economy

APG member Lori Roach moved to Tavira in September 2022 from Oregon. She and her husband Rick share their travels with online followers of Rick and Lori’s Grand Adventure. Lori started Studio

6 Designworks in 2015 and her journals and notebooks, available worldwide on Amazon, will soon be in Portugal giftshops, too.

Portfolio

THE BEACH AT PORTIM ÃO

Taken: November 2022, Portimão

Camera: Samsung Galaxy S21 Ultra “There was not another soul in sight the moment I stepped onto the beach at Portimão. The soft golden sand, the blue sky and the amazing colours of the ocean added to the peace and calmness I felt as I listened to the gentle crashing of the waves as the morning gave way to afternoon.”

Keyword: Peace

YARN-WRAPPED TREE

Taken: September 2022, Tavira

Camera: Samsung Galaxy S21 Ultra “Coming across this yarn-wrapped tree was truly delightful for me. The tree is wrapped in what are known as Granny Squares. Growing up in northeast Oregon, USA, winters could be harsh and we were often snowed in for days, and on those days I made Granny Squares...a lot of Granny Squares! I was thrilled to see how someone had decided to showcase their version of these crochet yarn delights known as Granny Squares.”

Keyword: Quirky

YESTERYEAR’ S DOOR

Taken: November 2022, Loulé

Camera: Samsung Galaxy S21 Ultra “I love this door. It looks old and forlorn now, but can you imagine what it looked like the day it was placed on its hinges, ready for guests to step out into the morning light or the cool night air. Today it is tattered, but yesteryear it caught everyone’s eye.”

Keyword: Tattered

LOULÉ MARKET

Taken: November 2022, Loulé

Camera: Samsung Galaxy S21 Ultra

“The sights and sounds of the Loulé Market were enough to entice me to venture further inside, even though the smell of fish and other sea creatures seemed overwhelming at times. From spices to cookies and from liquor to cabbage, the Loulé Market is a place that must be experienced for yourself.”

Keyword: Market

The family-run Amesbury Abbey Group offers an elegant retirement in country house style at Monte da Palhagueira.

For those who are looking for the reassurance of constant professional care, our nursing care may be the way forward. Alongside all the benefits of residential care, our nursing care adds the additional security of 24-hour care provision from qualified nursing professionals.

Our team spend a lot of time getting to know each resident as an individual, learning their preferences and understanding their concerns, working hand in hand with GPs and other associated care professionals to provide outstanding personalised nursing care. Our exceptional care team treat all our residents with respect, dignity and friendship, and our nursing home has a warm, family atmosphere. Each individual aspect of our nursing care is designed to give our residents the best possible quality of life and the highest standards of 24-hour care.

For further information, please contact Senior Sister Hazel Gordon at T: +351 289 990 900

Away from home

IS YOUR ALGARVE HOME YOUR SECOND HOME? ARE YOU AWAY FOR CHUNKS OF TIME – IN YOUR FIRST HOME PERHAPS, OR MAYBE TRAVELLING? DO YOU WORRY ABOUT SECURITY, ESPECIALLY IF YOUR NEIGHBOURS ARE ALSO ON THE MOVE? HERE ’ S HOW TO WORRY LESS...

Words: CHRIS PARTRIDGE

IT’S A CONCERN leaving your holiday place unoccupied for long periods, even if it is under management. Security systems can play a vital role in providing peace of mind and can not only deter potential intruders but also enhance overall property management.

A good level of security can be provided by surveillance cameras located at strategic points around the property, with sensors at vulnerable doors and windows. All systems are connected to the internet so homeowners can see exactly what is happening live through a smartphone app or web page. This real-time connection offers the ability to check on the property at any time, receive instant alerts in case of suspicious activity, and even remotely arm or disarm the security system.

However, one of the most useful features of the cameras for property owners living thousands of miles away is the ability to record footage that can be reviewed later in case of an incident, serving as valuable evidence for law enforcement or insurance claims.

Motion sensors can detect movement within a defined area and trigger alarms or notifications if unauthorised activity is detected.

Monitoring movement

Door/window sensors, on the other hand, alert homeowners if any entry point is breached. These sensors can be connected to a central monitoring station that can alert security personnel if necessary.

And there is much more that smart technology can do. Home automation systems can be integrated with security systems, allowing homeowners to adjust lighting, thermostats, and even simulate the appearance of someone being home by turning on TVs or radios at specific times. This can deter potential burglars by creating the illusion of occupancy.

In addition to protecting against break-ins, security systems also provide measures to safeguard against other threats such as fire and environmental hazards. Smoke detectors and carbon monoxide sensors can be integrated into the system, sending alerts to homeowners and emergency services in case of dangerous situations. This ensures that not only is the property protected against human threats, but also against potential accidents.

Modern security systems often come with backup power sources so it stays in action despite outages. Some systems offer cellular connectivity in case raiders tamper with the communication lines, although if you fear an attack on such a sophisticated level you probably need a professionally installed system.

All security cameras come with an app, naturally, most working on both iOS and Android. If you already have a smart home system installed, however, you need to ensure your new security camera is compatible with it. Another factor to bear in mind before buying is that while all security systems work out of the box, many need an annual subscription for premium features. If you want to be able to record incidents for future analysis by legal or insurance people, you will almost certainly have to pay.

Another note of caution – if your second home is let out or available on Airbnb, installing cameras is an absolute no-no. Creepy at best, illegal at worst.

Here are a few representative camera systems on the market today that are worth investigating:

Real-time connection means you can check on the property at any time, receive instant alerts in case of suspicious activity, and even remotely arm or disarm the security system.

CLAUDIA SCHIFFER

One of the 1990s’ most successful fashion models, German-born Claudia Schiffer has often been compared to Brigitte Bardot and holds a Guinness World Record for appearing on more than a thousand magazine covers, including 16 different national editions of Vogue magazine.

Her father was a lawyer and Claudia originally planned to follow him into the family law firm. However, she was ‘talent-spotted’ by a scout from a Paris model agency as a teenager and went to work in Paris. She was a success from the start and soon appeared on the cover of Vogue as well as becoming the ‘face’ of Chanel. By 1992 it was estimated that she was earning US$20,000 per fashion show. Fluent in German, French and English, she modelled for all the top fashion brands and also took on cameo roles in films as well as appearing on TV talk shows. She later produced her own fashion lines and also exercise videos. She became engaged to American magician David Copperfield and appeared on stage with him in the early 1990s. In 2002 she married British film director Matthew Vaughan and the couple now have a son and two daughters. They live in a 16th-century mansion in Suffolk with their family and what Claudia describes as "a menagerie", consisting of dogs, cats, sheep, pigs and a tortoise!

Whatever happened to…

THERE ARE SOME FAMOUS NAMES WHO CHANGE DIRECTION IN THEIR LATER YEARS AND DEVOTE THEIR TIME AND TALENT TO HELPING OTHERS WHO MAY FOLLOW IN THEIR FOOTSTEPS. WHO BETTER TO LEARN FROM THAN A PROVEN WINNER?

Words: JILL ECKERSLEY

NICK FALDO

Nick Faldo became ‘hooked’ on golf at the age of 14 after watching the great Jack Nicklaus on his parents’ brand-new colour TV! “I loved school… until golf came along!” he admitted. In the early 1970s he began winning awards as a Youth Amateur and was offered a Golf Scholarship to attend Houston University in the USA. He won The Open at Muirfield, his first major title, in 1987. Two years later he won The Masters, a title he defended successfully the following year.

More success followed and at one point he was ranked Number One in the official world golf rankings for 97 weeks straight. After his win at the Nissan Open in Los Angeles in 1997, he began to concentrate on other activities as well. He was Ryder Cup Captain in 2008 and has, to date, won more majors than any other European golfer since World War One.

His post-golf career was as a broadcaster for US TV networks, originally for ABC Sports and later for CBS where he continued to work until 2022.

Back in the early 90s he launched Faldo Design, a company involved in the design of golf courses worldwide, including the Amendoeira Faldo Course in Alcantarilha. He has also been involved in coaching schools and has written instructional books about golf. He was knighted for his services to sport in 2009. His has been married four times, most recently in 2020, and has four children.

Few dancers achieve equal acclaim in both classical ballet and popular entertainment but Wayne Sleep has done exactly that. Born in Plymouth but brought up in Hartlepool, he is sometimes said to have been the inspiration for Billy Elliott, the musical which tells the story of a young lad’s struggle to realise his dream of becoming a dancer.

Wayne studied tap and jazz dance as a child but was later accepted by the Royal Ballet School and eventually became a principal dancer with the Royal Ballet. Although his talent was soon recognised, his lack of height (“I am five-feet two… and shrinking,” he jokes) meant that many of the top choreographers of the day, including Sir Frederick Ashton, Sir Kenneth Macmillan and Gillian Lynne, created starring roles especially for him.

He starred in the original production of Andrew Lloyd Webber’s Cats on the London stage in 1981 and has taken part in both serious TV shows and light entertainment, including I’m a Celebrity and Ant-and-Dec!

He has numbered among his friends the late Princess Diana –herself a dance fan – singer Freddie Mercury and dancer Rudolf Nureyev and once said that: “Once you get the bug, dancing is addictive!”

Married in 2008, he currently lives with his husband Jose Bergera in West London. His Wayne Sleep Foundation was created to support disadvantaged students of the performing arts and he also runs workshops for dancers of all ages. He is a supporter of the work of Prostate Cancer UK, the Royal Voluntary Service and the Terrence Higgins Trust.

THE FOUNTAIN PEN

Before the invention of the fountain pen, anyone who wished to write in ink had to carry a quill and a bottle of ink around with them. Writing was a slow and cumbersome process when the quill had to be repeatedly dipped into the ink pot. It is said that Leonardo da Vinci produced drawings of a type of fountain pen probably intended for his own use – back in the 15th century – but it wasn't until the early 19th century that serious attempts were made to make writing easier.

A ‘fountain pen’ basically consists of three parts – a barrel which holds the ink, a nib that transfers the ink to the paper and a ‘feed’ which moves the ink from barrel to nib (ideally without leaking!) . The first UK patent was filed by one Frederick Folsch in 1809 but it wasn't until 1884 that American Lewis Edson Waterson developed an effective ‘feed’. The Parker company later developed their 'Lucky Curve' feed. Both companies are still known for their fountain pens.

The Parker 51, which came out in 1941, became a classic model and was used by writer and poet Dylan Thomas, HM Queen Elizabeth II, US General Eisenhower and Harry Potter actress Emma Watson, among others. By the 1960s ballpoint pens had overtaken

WAYNE SLEEP

He has numbered among his friends the late Princess Diana, Freddie Mercury and dancer Rudolf Nureyev

REMOVALS

REMOVALS

• Weekly removal service to and from the UK, Portugal and Malaga, Spain

STORAGE

• Weekly removal service to and from the UK, Portugal and Malaga, Spain

• Full or part packing and wrapping service

STORAGE

• Storage warehouses located in the UK, Algarve, Lisbon and Malaga, Spain

• Full or part packing and wrapping service

• One box to full house removals

ONLINE FURNITURE SHOPPING

• Storage warehouses located in the UK, Algarve, Lisbon and Malaga, Spain

• Fully insured, secure and alarmed

• One box to full house removals

• Villa to villa moves within the Algarve

ONLINE FURNITURE SHOPPING

• Shop online with any furniture retailer and have your items delivered the following week

• Fully insured, secure and alarmed

• Storage available for long or short term

• Villa to villa moves within the

• Shop online with any furniture retailer have your items delivered the following

• One/multiple items of furniture

• Storage available for long or short term

SALES@ALGARVEREMOVALS.COM

• One/multiple items of furniture

• All customs paperwork and procedures taken care by our in house customs experts

SALES@ALGARVEREMOVALS.COM

Manuela, the highly experienced beautician from Germany employs the latest technology at her salon in Almancil.

After the EMS BodyCult which sculptures & tones Body Parts there is also now the 9D HIFU with the HIFU360 & LipoHIFU feature exclusive in her salon which gives amazing lasting results. Book your complimentary consultation now!

Exchange traded funds

WITH HIGH LEVELS OF INFLATION AND RELATIVELY LOW RATES OF RETURNS ON CASH DEPOSITS, IT IS IMPORTANT TO MAKE SURE YOUR MONEY IS WORKING HARD FOR YOU. MARK QUINN AND DEBRAH BROADFIELD LOOK AT ‘ REAL’ INVESTMENTS – ASSETS THAT ARE EXPECTED TO GROW ABOVE THE RATE OF INFLATION

MAKE YOUR MONEY WORK HARDER Whilst you can purchase individual investments direct, most investors choose to invest through a collective investment where you pool your money with other investors into a larger pot and appoint a fund manager to run this pot for you – in doing so, your combined value is larger and you can spread your investments much more widely, which reduces risk. For example, the Vanguard LifeStrategy fund has approximately 22,000 underlying holdings.

a highly diversified basket because you have 500 different underlying investments but the top ten holdings make up around 35% of the value of the 500. The risk is very skewed to the big tech firms such as Google, Apple and Meta.

Another example of skewed risk is the MSCI World Index tracker. Although ‘world’ would suggest a globally diversified portfolio, around two thirds are invested in the US alone.

‘ACTIVE’

VERSUS ‘PASSIVE’ MANAGEMENT

The Active investors appoint a fund manager such as Fidelity or BlackRock to run the fund on their behalf and pay the manager a fee, typically between 1–2% per annum.

The alternative is to simply buy a basket of investments through a ‘tracker’ or passive fund – in this way, your fund will grow in line with the performance of the investments within the basket and do not have the personal involvement (and cost) of a fund manager overseeing the fund.

Examples of common trackers are those that mirror the S&P500 or FTSE100 indices, which are the largest companies trading on the US and UK stock markets respectively.

Counterparty risk – there are different ways of tracking the market. The most secure is ‘physical replication’ whereby the tracker simply holds the underlying investments of the index it tracks i.e. if you buy a FTSE 100 tracker, you will simply hold the 100 shares that make up that index.

The other main way is ‘synthetic replication’, which means the index is tracked by using a complicated financial product supplied by another financial institution. In this situation, you have to think about the additional risk of that counterparty’s financial strength.

Other important points to have clear knowledge of are:

The size of the fund

The ETF’s domicile status

MORE MONEY IN YOUR POCKET WITH

ETFS Exchange Traded Funds (EFTs) are tracker funds that trade on a stock market and the major advantage is the extremely low fees, with annual charges on some ETFs as low as 0.01%. The savings in fees compared with active fund managers can make a substantial difference to the value of your investments over time.

As ETFs are traded in real-time on a stock exchange, they can be accessed quickly, with low costs, and they offer access to a wide range of investments, from shares, gold and commodities to AI and environmental funds.

THE DEVIL IS IN THE DETAIL Whilst ETFs certainly have a place in a well-diversified portfolio, there are important considerations when selecting them.

Tracking error – as the sole job of the ETF is to follow the index it is tracking; you must ensure it is following the market accurately. If it fails to track the market it could result in underperformance, and this can be more costly than the fee saving on the management fee.

Skewed risk – be careful that your portfolio is sufficiently diversified; for example, you may think that the S&P500 is

The ETF’s tax residence Income treatment

Currency of the ETF

In short, although ETFs and tracker investments are simple in principle, there are important nuances of which to be aware, especially when considering cross-border investment.

ASK THE EXPERTS

Debrah Broadfield and Mark Quinn are Chartered Financial Planners (level 6 CII) and Tax Advisers (UK ATT) with 20 years of combined experience advising expatriates in Portugal on cross-border financial and tax planning issues.

YOUR money

RICARDO CHAVES IS HERE TO HELP PEOPLE UNDERSTAND AND DEAL WITH WHAT IS ALLOWABLE –AND NOT – WHEN IT COMES TO PERSONAL AND BUSINESS FINANCIAL MATTERS HERE IN PORTUGAL. THIS MONTH HE EXPLAINS THE VALUE OF INVOICES WITH YOUR NIF NUMBER, HIRING STAFF AND PROBLEMS WITH DEBIT CARDS

On occasions, when I am trying to purchase online using my Portuguese debit card, the card is rejected and I have to start the whole process again, at which point it is accepted. This is time-consuming as well as irritating but when I phone the bank, they don’t want to help in any way. What do you suggest – is it the bank itself and therefore, should I change? I do consider myself a worthwhile customer and would like to be treated that way.

My advice is to meet with your account manager and make sure that the web purchases in your card are active.

Sometimes for your own safety and to avoid fraud, the bank activates some security measures that may limit your purchases online. If you speak to your bank manager, they should be able to explain to you and set the limits that will work for you and your business.

Why do shops – supermarkets especially – ask if I want my NIF on the till receipt. Should I say yes?

What advantages are there in it for me?

The reason for this is because in Portugal many tax deductions are determined by the invoices requested with your NIF, during the year. Please note that if you have the NHR status, or if your income is tax exempt, or if you pay tax at the flat rates of 10%, 20% or 28%, these deductions will not be considered in your tax return.

However, for the income that is taxed at the progressive tax rates, the deductions are accepted and therefore it is important to have a NIF number included in the invoice. Before the submission of the tax return, normally by 25 February of each year, you or your accountant will need to verify your invoices and make sure these are allocated to the correct expense type.

To give you an idea, the amount spent in supermarkets falls under general expenses and you get 35% of the amount spent back. However, the deduction is limited to €250, so you only need to show expenditure of €715.

Other sectors such as medical and health are more important, as you get 15% of the amount spent, with a cap of €1,000. This means that your expenditure limit is up

to €6,666 and therefore you should make sure that your medical insurance, your medical bills, your pharmacy bills, etc have your fiscal number.

There are other sectors of activity in which you can benefit if your invoice shows your NIF. For example, on expenses in restaurants, hotels, hairdressers, vets, and others you can get 15% of the VAT paid, with a limit of €250. This means that you would need to have invoices of up to €8,930 to reach the deduction limit.

What is today’s basic salary and what should be built in in terms of paid-for holidays, sick pay, pension contributions, etc? I am thinking of taking on a full time helper to run my consultancy, at a junior level. Or, am I better off to hiring them as freelancers, and pay for the hours they put in? How does that work?

Please note that freelancers are supposed to be independent and therefore they are not your employees and should not be directed by you. When you hire freelancers you become the client and we advise you to seek legal advice to avoid falling into the trap of false employment.

As far as basic salary is concerned, the minimum wage in Portugal for a full-time employee is €760, paid 14 times per annum (this includes holiday and Christmas entitlement). By arrangement with the employee, the 13th and 14th salaries can be paid over the 12 months.

Please note that depending on the sector of activity, there may be a collective agreement in place, which would have higher salary limits for the different types of professions. You need to make sure that your contract is in line with the collective agreement and again seeking legal advice is highly recommended.

In terms of charges, hiring someone for €1,000 basic salary will cost your business €1,237,50. And the employee will receive €890 gross (before tax). On top of the salary, there may be considerations like lunch allowance, which, if paid under the limit, is exempt from social security contributions.

GOING LEGAL

ALGARVEPLUS WELCOMES LEGAL EXPERTS RAMOS & ASSOCIADOS TO OUR EDITORIAL LINE-UP. NELSON RAMOS AND ROBERTA RAMOS AND THEIR SPECIALIST TEAM WILL BE ANSWERING READERS ’ QUESTIONS EVERY MONTH. BUT FIRST, HERE ’ S WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT THE COMPANY AND ITS UNIQUE WAY OF WORKING

THE MAJOR PLAYERS

Nelson Ramos has been a member of the Portuguese Bar Association since 1997. He has a law degree from the Lusíada University of Lisbon, 1997, and a Masters in International Law from Fordham University, School of Law, NYC 2003. He is fluent in Portuguese, English, French and Spanish.

Dra. Roberta Ramos has had a degree in Administration with Habilitation in COMEX since 2004, a Postgraduate degree in Business Logistics from FABAVI since 2006, and was awarded a Law Degree by ISMAT in 2017. She has been a Member of the Portuguese Lawyers Order since 2019 and speaks Portuguese, English and Spanish.

THE NRAMOS TEAM

It is the company’s belief that the standard of a service is as good as the people behind it, and vitally, that the service offered must be of the highest quality. And that means players with impeccable standards who are

able to meet every client requirement. All members of the Ramos & Associados team are fully qualified, each with a specific university degree that encompasses their role, either in administration or in law. They have proven track records and are committed to delivering client satisfaction; they are justly proud to have been selected by their clients.

THE COMPANY’S EXPERTISE

Nelson Ramos explains: “Although we act more in the areas of Real Estate Law and Litigation, our real expertise is in building client relationships and ensuring we can meet every expectation.

“In an information society, access to knowledge is easily available – a lawyer can find out about the law governing almost any subject, and can do so in a relatively short time, making it possible to provide a range of services to the client.

“However, when we decide to accept a

case, our main concern is not whether the matter falls into a specific category of law where we feel more comfortable; our direct focus, rather, is on understanding a client’s situation or business, and establishing the best solution to meet those requirements.

“Our working method is a clear demonstration of our approach to providing the best and most valuable legal service. Other law offices may promote a particular individual within their organisation for their area of specialisation, whereas we work together as a team on virtually every case. That way, a client can count on the collective expertise of our total team, rather than on one single lawyer who may not always be available.

“We are looking forward to working with AlgarvePLUS readers. Send your questions to us and our team will address them in order, from the next issue onwards. To consult with us direct, contact our office at the address below.”

THOMAS BOSSARD

ArtCatto

289 419 447, info@artcatto.com artcatto.com

La cueillette des citrons, oil on canvas, 92x73cm. Part of a new exhibition that opens at the Loulé gallery on 15 September, with artworks by Bossard, Colin Fraser and Annalú.

FONSECA MARTINS

Tavira d’Artes, Tavira 962 012 111

An Algarvean Scene. Oil on canvas, 100x120cm. From a dazzling selection of fine artworks, many of which celebrate our surroundings.

FRAGILE... CERAMIC SCULPTURE CREATED BY TARA EZAGUY

BONGARD & SYLVAIN BONGARD

Lisbon Botanic Gardens atelierbongard@hotmail.com studiobongard.com/projects-8

From 5 September

The Bongards’ latest and most extraordinary collection of ceramic sculptures set in the pathways around the Botanic Garden represents natural life and its fragile balance with human over action. Each piece is molded in stoneware clay, dried, thoughtfully glazed and fired at 1300ºC in their wood-fired kiln at their studio in Monchique. If you are in the capital, don’t miss out.

STEVEN COX

Aderita Artistic Space

Av. do Mar, Vale do Lobo 912 186 868 artisticspace.pt 1-30 September

TRNSFER (Nightlife), oil and spray paint on canvas. 60x50cm.

CHARLIE HOLT

Museu do Traje, São Brás

On now, 966 329 073

Marilyn Revisited. From the old fashion magazines found in the museum, Holt has given front cover images a facelift and recreated them as Andy Warhol had done with his Marilyn Monroe portraits.

ALGARVE PHOTOGRAPHERS GROUP

Museu do Traje, São Brás, 966 329 073 admin@amigos-museu-sbras.pt algarvephotographersgroup.org

Opening 29 September, 19:00, On until 23 November

People Portraiture. Exhibition of members’ work –vote for your choice of winning image. Finger food, bar available. Donations appreciated.

IF YOU HAVE ANYTHING YOU WOULD LIKE TO SHARE EMAIL susi@rogol-goodkind.com

MUSIC

TOM LEAMON

Gama Rama

Rua do Prior no 13, Faro 961 372 891 gamaramagallery@gmail.com

On until 21 October

The Walter Winkalot Club. The unveiling of a diverse new collection of works by Tom Leamon, the British artist based in the Algarve, focusing on the connection between Leamon’s onsite and offsite studios and the curated exhibition space.

República 14, Olhão

Concerts every Saturday, 21:00 republica14.pt, Reservas@republica14.pt Email for ticket prices, and to book.

16 September

DIOGO PICÃO, singersongwriter who aspires to age as a poet and bohemian, with Salvador Sobral, Mônica Salmaso, Luca Argel and 20 other musicians and ten themes that journey through the various ports of the Atlantic blending samba, jazz, son cubano, and others with words borrowed from authors such as Fernando Pessoa and Paulo Leminski.

23 September

TRIPTICO, the trio of José Salgueiro (percussion and fulgel), Marc Planells (vocals, lute and lavta) and Adriano

ART EXPO ALGARVE

Portimão Arena

21-24 September, 11:00–21:00

Modern and contemporary art fair with artists and galleries from more than 30 countries, making it the largest event in the sector in Portugal. Wonderful talents to discover – artists, photographers, illustrators and sculptors – with big established names alongside great fresh talents who will be the stars of tomorrow.

FRIDAY HAPPINESS ASSOCIATION

Dias Pereira (clarinet, transverse flute and fx).

Middle Eastern musical culture predominates, as well as jazz.

30 September

ELIS & ELES, a tribute to Elis Regina with Sara Badalo and a new repertoire, new arrangements and a whole new concert dynamic.

Amigos de Música

Os Agostos, Santa Bárbara de Nexe reservasconcertos@gmail.com, amigosdemusica.org

Starting 12 September

A special event starts the season with young pianist Luis Miguel Tolda, the Amigos de Música’s new protégé within their Scholarship Programme,

playing Chopin, Bach, Poulenc, Beethoven, Bartók and Debussy.

On 26 September the Ukrainian pianist Artem Yasynskyy will present a programme featuring works by Bach, Brahms, Britten and Prokofiev, and on the 28th Bach, Haydn, Jehan Alain and Jozef Casimir Hofmann. Visit the website for full details and to book. For membership enquiries contact helga.hampton@gmail.com

Tojeiro, 8550-145 Marmelete 304 503 140 info@fridayhappiness.org fridayhappiness.org app.joinit.com/o/ fridayhappiness-associaao

The Friday Happiness Association is a cultural and arts community that is working towards being selfsustained. Situated in the mountains of Monchique, surrounded by nature, it offers an alternative way of living with permaculture gardens, farm animals, sustainability projects and arts and cultural workshops. Members can attend jam sessions on the open deck on Wednesday, 15:00–00:00, and pizza party nights from 15:00 every Friday. There are three separate dance stages where you can enjoy music to 06:00. Musicians, DJs and artists can apply.

IF YOU HAVE ANYTHING YOU WOULD LIKE TO SHARE EMAIL susi@rogol-goodkind.com

EXERIENCES Loulé criativo workshops

TAVIRA MEDITERRANEAN DIET FAIR

7–8 September, 18:00–00:00

9–10 September, 11:00–00:00

Promoting sustainability, the 8th edition of this festival sees handicrafts and traditional products coming together with artists, Mediterranean plants, music (great songsters expected), performing arts, cinema – you name it. For kids there are educational shows, traditional games and environmental workshops. Chefs demonstrate gastronomic techniques and 18 restaurants are taking part with specially created menus. Visit cm-tavira.pt/site/3dflip-book/programa-dietamediterranica/ for the full programme.

VILA VITA BIERGARTEN

Porches

282 310 100 vilavitaparc.com/en/ upcoming-events/summerbbq-vila-vita-biergarten

8 and 15 September 19:00–22:00

BBQ night. Great food. Great music. Great atmosphere. Book by phone or online.

FIGS ON THE FUNCHO

São Bartolomeu de Messines +44 (0)7976 660526 cheryl@figsonthefuncho.com figsonthefuncho.com

During September there are various water colour painting workshops with yoga and lunch or with accommodation, and 5-day mixed media painting activities. Check out what’s available online – and be ready for a great artistic experience as well as the opportunity to make new friends with shared interests.

NEW CIRCULAR TAPESTRY WORKSHOP

5 September, Oficina dos Têxteis, Loulé Coordination: Susana Mendez To register: susanamendez. studio@gmail.com

NEW EMBROIDERY IN PHOTOGRAPHY: PLACES OF THE ALGARVE

23 September, Oficina dos Têxteis, Loulé Partner: Flávia Ferreira

To register: flaviaferreiradias@gmail.com

GRAPE HARVEST AT QUINTA DA TÔR

10 September, Tôr

Partner: Quinta da Tôr

To register: geral@quintadator.com

NEW INTRODUCTION TO THE POTTER ’ S WHEEL FOR CHILDREN AND TEENS

14 September, Palacio Gama Lobo, Loulé Coordination: Mário Mendonça

To register: mar.okapi@sapo.pt

OPEN DAY

Open Day at Palacio Gama Lobo, Loulé, 10:00–19:00

Discover the local creative community: workshops, demonstrations, art, design, music, handicrafts.

For the full programme, email loulecriativo@cm-loule.pt or head to loulecriato.pt

MAMAMARATONA 23

15 October, 10:00

Registration opens 8 September

Walking Tour, Tuesdays, 16:30–20:00

Social Running

Thursdays, 19:00–20:00

Yoga

Fridays 11:15–12:15

Sundays 10:00–11:00

Social Padel Challenge, Fridays, 18:30–21:30

Cardio Tennis, Tuesdays, 17:00-19:00

Round Ronin Tournament, Wednesdays, 17:00–19:00

Raising awareness of cancer, and in particuar breast cancer, the Associação Oncológica do Algarve with the Parish Council of Quarteira is staging the 23rd edition of this 5km or 7km march at Passeio das Dunas, between Quarteira and Vilamoura. Included in this initiative, through which it is hoped funds with be raised for the work of the Associação, are a 10km mini-marathon, 21km half-marathon. More detailed information can be found at mama.maratona@aoa.pt

AT THE TENNIS ACADEMY Vale do Lobo, valedolobo.com/en/events, Throughout September

AND f inally

ANTHONY MARTIN IS INTO VROOM SERVICE, HAVING DISCOVERED THE INCLUSION OF A SPECIAL EXTRA IN HIS NEW CAR. WHILE MOST OF US DISPOSE OF OUR WASTE IN AN ECOFRIENDLY BAG, HE WANTS TO KEEP IT CLOSE AT HAND

AT LAST finally it’s on its way. Due to the economic conflict between the USA and China, the severe drought in Taiwan and the little Slavic man in the big Red Square, my delivery is taking a while to get here. But, thanks to the person who found a stash of semiconductor chips down the side of the sofa, my mobile waste-paper bin, complete with spring- loaded lid, is finally on the move, ten months after the initial order.

It is not, I hasten to add, an ordinary bin, but a classic example of blue-sky thinking, of thinking outside the box as, to ensure its mobility, they wrapped it in a car. A car of Scandi origin, built by a company owned by the Chinese, but manufactured in Belgium. This being a good thing, for the Belgians are good builders, if you remember they built Audrey Hepburn, and they did a firstclass job on her.

But this is not a piece about La Hepburn, nor is it about the car, with its myriad of widgets and gizmos, and the fact that you can chat to it and it will answer you without telling you to slow down and stay in your bloody lane, as some passengers are prone to do.

No, this is about the fact that I have, over the years, owned a few cars and driven a lot of cars, but never come across a car with a spring-loaded removable lidded waste bin being an integral part of the centre console.

I could go on, in Jeremy Clarkson style, about engine size, torque versus horsepower and that cars no longer have switches, just touch control icons that will do everything from keeping your distance from the car in front, to lowering the rear headrests, but frankly I’m more impressed with the waste bin, so this piece is to honour the Sven or Birgitta who came up with this stonking idea.

Finally, I will have a place for those unwanted till

and parking receipts, lolly sticks, dead batteries and Mars Bar wrappers. When I got rid of my last car it carried 14 years of detritus: under the seats, the mats, in the cup holders.

All the storage areas had something hiding there, be they nuts or washers, or a black plastic clip that you know came off something or other but could not be thrown away as it might be important: it could well be the sprocket, widget, thingummy from the whatsit that you will one day be searching for, and spares will not be available. These important bits and bobs cannot be put in the waste bin, which, after all, needs to be emptied on a regular basis. Disregarding all that, a man’s car should have character. With lots of small cubbies and hidey-holes in which to put his ‘car things that might be needed someday’, like the sprocket, widget thingy.

His wardrobe drawers might hold old screwdriver handles, his ancient Ovaltiney badge, the swimming certificate he won for doing a width of the pool summer at camp in 1952. These are the little drawers that hold the mementoes of the important milestones in his life.

But the car’s hidey holes – now they hold the mementoes of ‘car’ memories. The speed camera photograph of the rear number plate doing 127mph on the A40, the mechanic’s inflated bill for what was effectively just a missing hinge nut, or an article of clothing left by a long-forgotten girlfriend. All these are of importance but none so vitally important, as this 21st century must-have.

Google ‘car waste bin’ and it will produce 310 million hits, but it took over 100 years for a Sven or Birgitta to think of building one into a car itself. Why is it they have only just thought of this? These are the people who gave us Ikea, Nobel, smorgasbord, meatballs, dancing queens and even an angry munchkin, called Greta Thunberg. How is it possible that the springloaded lidded waste bin took so long?

When I got rid of my last car, it carried 14 years of detritus: under the seats, the mats, in the cup holders