Wanted in Rome - April 2021

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THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

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EDITORIALS

RECTOR OF LA SAPIENZA UNIVERSITY Marco Venturini

8. PREGNANCY IN ROME IN THE COVID-19 ERA Theresa Potenza

12. LE SIGNORE DELL'ARTE Margaret Stenhouse

18. LAKES AROUND ROME 20. ROME FOR children 22. STREET ART guide 24. MUSEUMS 26. ART GALLERIES 43. CULTURAL VENUES 49. RECIPE 50. puntarella rossa 52. USEFUL NUMBERS

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THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

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4. INTERVIEW WITH

MISCELLANY

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34. EXHIBITIONS 36. ART news 39. Formula E 39. Opera 40. Classical

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ENTS 4

INTERVIEW WITH RECTOR OF LA SAPIENZA UNIVERSITY

8

34

PREGNANCY IN ROME IN THE COVID-19 ERA

OPERA

43 ART NEWS

Education

INTERVIEW WITH RECTOR OF LA SAPIENZA UNIVERSITY WANTED IN ROME PUT QUESTIONS TO DR ANTONELLA POLIMENI, THE FIRST WOMAN RECTOR OF LA SAPIENZA, THE OLDEST UNIVERSITY IN ROME AND THE LARGEST IN EUROPE Marco Venturini WiR: How and to what extent has the university world been affected by the covid-19 pandemic and what measures have been put in place by La Sapienza to alleviate the consequences of the various lockdowns?

AP: The covid-19 pandemic, which arrived unexpectedly throughout the country, forced universities to react promptly so as not to interrupt teaching and to guarantee the right to study. In my opinion the response of the whole university system was very effective. In the second semester of the 2019-2020 academic year, La Sapienza ensured that 95 per cent of its teaching was carried out remotely. In a few days, La Sapienza ensured the transition

Antonella Polimeni, rector of La Sapienza. Photo by Stefania Sepulcri.

4 | April 2021 • Wanted in Rome

from in-person to remote learning. We have demonstrated a resilience that cannot be taken for granted for a complex and diversified institution such as ours, with 115,000 students – 9,800 from abroad – 287 different courses and 177 graduate programmes. This response has also been possible thanks to the commitment of our faculty and technical-administrative staff.

Before the temporary ‘red zone’ restrictions took effect recently we had resumed 50 per cent of the teaching activities of the second semester 20202021 in person from late February, in line with the decision taken by the academic senate of La Sapienza and by the conference of rectors of the universities of Lazio. All courses are taught in person and can be accessed by students either in the classroom or at a distance, regardless of the year of the course. Laboratory activities, exercises and research are also carried out in person. Finally, exams and graduation sessions are held in person, in line with the education ministry safety and health guidelines. They can also be held remotely for those students who request it. Access to classrooms is in compliance with all the current covid regulations, and the spacing and tracking of attendance is guaranteed through the Prodigit computer system which must be accessed in advance by students. When teaching resumed, the university also launched a free covid-19 screening campaign on campus.

Education What is the role of online teaching and what, in your opinion, is the future of distance teaching? What are La Sapienza’s initiatives in this regard?

In the initial phase of the emergency, thanks also to ministerial funds, we were able to equip all areas of the university with information technology, along with other Italian universities.

In the future, the experience of these months will allow us to continue to ensure a part of our teaching will be remote. In fact, there is no doubt that from the teaching point of view, this emergency has been an important experience. The digital tool is certainly useful for international students and for those who are off-campus, as well as for continuous training. I am talking about supplementary lessons, self-assessment tests, or life-long learning, all areas for which distance teaching can be complementary, even if not a complete substitute. University is always a moment of training, including social training, so presence is essential, because there must be a direct exchange between the teacher and the student. Recourse to remote learning has been, and still is, an obligatory choice that we will be able to exploit in the future.

What are La Sapienzà’s strong points within the context of the city of Rome?

In opening itself to the city and the greater Rome area, our university aims to build a relationship and a shared system with the socio-economic, cultural and urban sectors. In our complex society, it becomes increasingly necessary to acquire the different forms of knowledge necessary to support the formation of programmes of public and cultural interest, as well as for human and social development. Of particular interest are Open Science and activities related to the pursuit of the Sustainable Development Goals of the United Nations Agenda 2030 that our university wants and can promote. We still have a great deal of work to do to strengthen the relationship between La Sapienza, the city of Rome and the Lazio region. I would like to point out that La Sapienza has confirmed its position as a world leader in classical studies, and is the only Italian university to boast a first place position in international rankings.

This brilliant achievement, the result of commitment and passion, is part of our university’s tradition

La Sapienza University in Rome. Photo credit: rarrarorro / Shutterstock.com.

of excellence in the field of classical studies, with innovative courses entirely in English, spaces to study among statues and decorative friezes in the reading areas of the Museum of Classical Art, and also cultural initiatives such as the Theatron Project, in which students adapt and stage Greek and Latin texts. We are talking about a founding discipline of our society and as such it must be preserved and passed on to new generations. It also offers analytical tools and transversal skills that make the difference in the job market and in a rapidly changing socio-cultural context.

How do these two realities integrate and complement each other? It is necessary to deepen a profitable and lasting relationship between La Sapienza and the city, which hosts a large number of other universities and research centres, each with their own student and academic bodies, without being able to draw a sufficient synergy.

It should be emphasised that the university includes all activities, in addition to research and teaching, that are open to the outside world and that go by the name of Third Mission.

This includes research, academic entrepreneurship, spin-offs and start-ups, as well as science and technology parks. In addition there is the entire sector of the production of public goods, from the management of cultural assets (excavations, museums, historic buildings) to the protection of health (clinical research centres and bio-banks), continuing education and cultural and scientific outreach projects.

Wanted in Rome • January 2021 | 5

Education in Italy to have this breadth of facilities. It’s no coincidence that we train 10 per cent of doctors, dentists and other healthcare professions in Italy. And this period has truly demonstrated the important role of the entire medical sector.

How does it feel to be the first woman rector of La Sapienza and what is the role of women in the current and near future in Italy and Europe?

The Minerva statue by Arturo Martini is one of the principal symbols of La Sapienza. Photo credit: Enzoartinphotography / Shutterstock.com.

The importance of research is increasingly important. What are the achievements in this field?

Ours is one of the oldest and largest scientific communities in the world and it is also one of the most complex. In recent years we have maintained a high level of international prestige as shown by the periodical university rankings.

However, I must confess that we have achieved this performance with great effort because we find ourselves operating under difficult circumstances. Italy invests too little in research.

We are well below the European average and we rank only 27th in the international ranking for research spending. We only allocate 1.4 per cent of gross domestic product to research which is not much if we consider that Germany, Denmark and Austria invest exactly twice as much and the average for the Organisation for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD) is 2.4 per cent. Also, the number of the researchers in Italy is among the lowest. And it could not be otherwise considering that there are still few graduates compared to the active population. The only positive note is the quality of our research.

The covid-19 pandemic has clearly shown the strategic importance of research, training and assistance for the country in terms of the right to health, a particularly important issue for us. La Sapienza has two university hospitals (Umberto I and S. Andrea), as well as the Polo Pontino research centre, and we are the only university 6 | April 2021 • Wanted in Rome

My election had an impact beyond the purely academic sphere because La Sapienza now has a woman rector for the first time in its 717-year history. However I would also like to note that I was elected in the first round of voting with 61 per cent of the votes: this was also something new. I prefer to talk about a success of merit and method widely shared within the Sapienza community.

On the issue of gender, which concerns university students, staff and faculty, we must act to ensure equal opportunities for equal abilities and allow those with merit to have equal access. The data confirms that female students do better than their male colleagues: they enter university better prepared, they graduate earlier and with better grades. Female professors make up about 40 per cent of the total teaching staff, and the majority of technical and administrative staff are women.

This is certainly a good record. However if we go into details women only make up 27 per cent of the top teaching roles and currently all 11 faculties are headed by men. However La Sapienza is above the national average in this regard, and the overwhelming majority of the directors are women, including our director general.

I believe it is very important to promote projects to encourage women as early as secondary school.

The new prime minister, Mario Draghi, recently announced that his government will invest in projects to encourage increasing numbers of young women to train in strategically important digital, technological and environmental sectors of the economy. Policies must also be put in place to bridge the gender gap and to reconcile work with personal and family commitments.

Before her election as rector of La Sapienza for a six-year term, Polimeni was dean of the university’s faculty of medicine and dentistry. She is also the first female rector to be elected to a major Italian university.

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Health

PREGNANCY IN ROME IN THE COVID-19 ERA THE PERSONAL ACCOUNT OF EXPECTING A BABY AND BECOMING A MOTHER DURING THE CORONAVIRUS EMERGENCY IN ROME Theresa Potenza

E

veryone has that one defining moment.

That day or event when the weight and reality of the pandemic comes crashing down on them. It could be the day that all museums or schools closed. Or when there was a flour shortage in the supermarket. One of the most exciting but daunting moments for some could be, a positive pregnancy test. Or even, a positive covid test. During the pandemic, I experienced both.

In November, we were eight months into the pandemic and I was 34 weeks pregnant. I fell asleep in the car as I parked before unloading the groceries. That evening while cooking dinner, cutting an onion, I realised I had lost my smell. I put the onion close up to my nose and tried desperately to get my olfactory working with anything I could find in the house... perfume, soaps, onions, garlic... nothing. That’s when I knew, I wasn’t just tired. I

8 | April 2021 • Wanted in Rome

had covid. Despite not going to work and isolating myself from friends at a time when I needed them the most, with a weakened immune system due to pregnancy, I got the virus.

The next 24 hours, as my energy levels weakened and my taste and smell disappeared, my mind raced with so many questions. The primary concern: where could I get prenatal care being covid positive, and since I was close to my due date, where can I deliver my baby?

A string of phone calls led to the conclusion that in Lazio there are two hospitals that have a covid maternity centre: Policinico Gemelli and Policlinico Umberto 1. These hospitals are evolving daily to meet the needs of pregnant women with the coronavirus. I had planned my delivery at a different hospital but now my labour was taking an unexpected and unfamiliar turn.

Health My husband dropped me off outside the maternity ward of Ospedale Gemelli where I subsequently waited in a makeshift tent with cement flooring, canvas walls and a portaloo, in the car park while a team of nurses came out in hazmat gear over a span of 12 hours to provide a series of covid tests, blood tests and sonograms.

I arrived at noon and a room in a special ward in the hospital finally opened up for me at midnight.

After sitting in a plastic chair in the November cold in the parking lot of the hospital for half a day, I was never so happy to be in a hospital bed.

A place designed specifically to care for someone like me, a designated covid maternity centre.

A wide range of emotions swept through me during my stay. On one side, overwhelming isolation caused by language barriers and physical barriers with all the doctors and nurses in hazmat gear. Through all the gear, I couldn’t hear or recognise any care-giver or doctor that I had met.

There was no distinction between the cleaning staff and the medical staff so I mistakenly often asked the cleaner about the results of my last medical exam, or the doctor if she could provide more toilet paper in the bathroom. I felt not only alone and apart from any single person in my support circle, but apart from a recognisable face.

Did I meet this doctor yesterday or do I have to reintroduce myself and my concerns?

Despite all that, I felt incredible gratitude. At Gemelli they were thorough with my care and did not release me for five days while they continued to run tests for mine and the baby’s safety. They even sent me home free of charge in an ambulance since I was covid positive and nobody could pick me up and I couldn’t take a taxi.

After being discharged, for the next three weeks, my husband and daughter and I isolated ourselves at home. The hospital, after all their thorough tests, told me just to call them if I didn’t feel the baby moving. Otherwise to come back in three weeks when I’d be full term and hopefully negative from the virus. Every day for three weeks, I thought to myself, is today going to be the day that I take a turn for the worse? Am I going to survive? Is my baby going to survive?

Three weeks later, I went back to Gemelli Hospital, tested negative for covid and delivered a healthy boy. Gemelli offers the opportunity

The Gemelli is one of two hospitals offering covid maternity care in Rome.

for husbands to attend labour, but since I was negative and he was positive, I did it alone. The alone factor would have been more tolerable if the pain factor could have been mitigated.

One important detail was that on the day of delivery, an epidural was not available to me.

An appointment with an anesthesiologist is required in advance to have an epidural during labour. At Gemelli, since it is a busy hospital, these appointments need to be booked at least six weeks in advance. Therefore, I suggest that any expecting mother have a back-up plan and book your anesthesiologist appointment not only at the hospital or clinic where you plan to deliver, but also at one of the covid maternity hospitals aforementioned just in case you have the misfortune of being in that situation.

I was given another covid test during delivery and put in isolation with the baby until I received a second negative covid result so they knew safely where to put us. I still wasn’t allowed visitors nor my husband, but after 24 hours I could finally be visited by doctors, and leave the confines of my hospital room, if only to go to the anagrafe to register the baby’s birth.

Looking back, it was a powerful experience. At a time when it seemed all my power had been taken from me, and when so many people were dying, I did a powerful thing in providing life, thanks also to the medical care available to me.

Responsively, as the pandemic rages on, science, legislation, and organisation are advancing to keep up. In Gemelli’s covid maternity centre, most of the Wanted in Rome • April 2021 | 9

Health Along with a midwife, she leads a weekly online birth course in English that serves as a guided tour for giving birth in Rome with information about Roman hospitals, home birth, how to care for your newborn and education about labour and delivery. The course runs on Wednesday evenings and is pay by suggested donation.

Also, post-birth courses on topics such as pelvic floor, baby wearing (slings), and working and pumping are available.

rooms are private. And recent scientific studies have confirmed that covid antibodies can pass through breastmilk, so I was fortunate at Gemelli to have a private room in their “rooming in” section and to not be separated from my baby so that I could begin breastfeeding and bonding with him.

Useful information for expectant mothers in Rome More advancements at Gemelli include the opportunity for pregnant women that are covid positive to get a sonogram at a reserved time on Saturday mornings. For information tel.

3425049023.

In addition to the medical care I experienced at Ospedale Gemelli, there are many resources available for extra support through Bellies Abroad (www.belliesabroad.com), a non-profit company designed to help international families have a safe and positive birth experience, all more necessary in the time of a global health crisis. The website provides assistance in English for pregnancy, postnatal care and parenting, including a list of service providers, www.belliesabroad.com.

You can book an online consultation with its founder, ‘Mombassador’ Kiersten Pilar Miller, for information on any of the multitude of questions you may have about pregnancy and delivery during this challenging and changing time. She can assist with how to find the most up-to-date information, including legislation regarding maternity care and delivery in Rome hospitals as it relates to covid, suggest various support networks, and help plan a home birth.

10 | April 2021 • Wanted in Rome

The website also allows you to choose from and book an appointment with a plethora of multilingual, culturally sensitive service providers available for telemedicine, such as midwives, gynecologists, counsellors, family psychologists and pediatricians. Some of the service providers on the website who have already been vaccinated are also available for necessary at-home visits for covid positive patients struggling to find the right care at a critical time in their pregnancies, such as at-home blood tests or vaginal exams. There is also a vaccine research specialist on the team who will be hosting a vaccine questions webinar and is available for individual consultations. The website also provides helpful information regarding doulas and home birth, an ever increasing choice nowadays during a global health emergency.

For assistance and support with breastfeeding, check out your local La Leche League for information about virtual meetings and private consultations, also available in English, www. b e lli esabroad . c om /event /la- lec he- leag ueworking-from-home-breastfeeding/ For mothers interested in donating breast milk, you can find information in English on the Bellies Abroad website. The donation process involves contacting the Banca del Latte Umano Donato at Ospedale Pediatrico del Bambino Gesu where you will be given a blood test and questionnaire about your lifestyle habits before donating. www.belliesabroad.com For financial support, the Italian state offers a few bonuses for new mothers. Check with your local CAF (Centro di Assistenza Fiscale) office for information about the Bonus Mamma, Bonus Bebè, and Bonus Asilo Nido. Finally, for information about transportation and getting to medical appointments and hospitals safely, check out My Safe Taxi at www.mysafetaxi.it.

Wanted in Rome • April 2021 | 11

Art

LE SIGNORE DELL'ARTE AN EXHIBITION IN MILAN REDISCOVERS ITALIAN WOMEN ARTISTS OF THE 16TH AND 17TH CENTURIES Margaret Stenhouse

I

n his monumental Lives of the Artists Giorgio Vasari, the 16th-century chronicler of the painters of his century, devotes one chapter to women. He starts off with a flow of compliments regarding the creative abilities of women, in which he gallantly asserts that: “it is extraordinary that in all the skills and pursuits in which women in any period whatever have with some preparation been involved, they have always succeeded most admirably and have become more than famous, as countless examples could easily demonstrate.”

It is, however, a very short chapter, with only a handful of female artists cited, but in actual fact, a great number of women artists worked throughout the Renaissance and Baroque eras.

In their day many were famous, with their own studios and apprentices. They obtained important commissions from prestigious patrons, including royals such as Charles I of Britain and Philip II of Spain. Some were also accepted as members

Sofonisba Anguissola, Partita di Scacchi, National Museum of Poznan. All photos courtesy of Le Signore dell'Arte exhibition.

12 | April 2021 • Wanted in Rome

of super-exclusive professional clubs such as the Accademia di S. Luca in Rome and the Accademia e Compagnia delle Arti del Disegno of Florence.

Almost all these women have been virtually forgotten in the intervening centuries, so much so that until modern times the visual arts were considered the exclusive domain of men.

Most women artists, like Tintoretto’s daughter, the talented Marietta, trained in their father’s studio, or else they came from aristocratic families, which allowed their daughters to study art along with the other necessary graces. Despite coming from these privileged backgrounds, however, many had to fight to make their way in the art world.

One of the main obstacles to the development of women artists of the time was that they were not admitted to life drawing classes, so they could not study the nude human body. As a result, most avoided subjects requiring a naked or scantily clad subject. Some got around it by getting family members to pose so that they could produce a dying Christ, a Greek Venus or a repentant Magdalene, but most preferred to stick to portraits, which were also a good source of income.

In his chapter on women, Vasari focuses largely on his contemporary, Properzia de’ Rossi, (14901530) the “Sculptress from Bologna” whom he describes as young, beautiful and talented as a musician, as well as “being skilful in household duties like any other woman.” He speaks lyrically of “the tender and lily-white hands” of women that “have not been ashamed...to place themselves in the mechanical arts between the roughness of marble and the harshness of iron ...in order to attain their desire and to earn renown.”

Art Despite her tender and lily-white hands, Properzia worked in the all-male construction site of the Basilica of S. Petronio in Bologna, where she got a commission to carve a couple of angels, three Sybils and a pair of bas-relief panels. She defended her professional status literally tooth and nail, since she ended up in court for attacking and scratching one of her detractors. According to Vasari, in addition to sculpting marble busts for important clients, she was renowned for carving miniature biblical scenes and nativities on peach stones, which were much sought after by the nobility and frequently encased in jewellery.

Most of her output has been lost and the only one of her works which has been definitely identified is a bas-relief panel portraying the biblical story of Joseph rejecting the advances of Potiphar’s wife, where the woman’s face is thought to be a self portrait. Unfortunately, Properzia’s life seems to have ended sadly. She died at the age of 40, bankrupt and alone, and then sank into almost total oblivion during the following four centuries.

Lavinia Fontana (1552-1614), also from Bologna, was another determined character. She agreed to marry fellow artist Giovan Paolo Zappi only on condition that she would be allowed to carry on painting. Despite the subsequent birth of 11 children, she ran her own studio and supported her family, while her husband acted as her agent and looked after the home front. Lavinia was an elected member of the Accademia di S. Luca.

She specialised in portraits of the Roman nobility and Pope Paul V also sat for her. Perhaps her most poignant work is the portrait of the little Antonietta Gonsalvus, who was afflicted with the hereditary family condition of hypertrichosis or excessive hairiness. Since Antonietta was from an aristocratic family she did not end up as a circus freak, and Fontana’s skill produced a sympathetic image of a sweet child, despite her abundant facial hair. The painting is part of the collection of the Musée du Chateau de Blois.

Elisabetta Sirani (1638-1665) also came from Bologna, where she ran the family studio and a painting school for women. Her talent was widely recognised but she died young of suspected poisoning. She was buried in the Basilica of S. Lorenzo in the same tomb as Guido Reni, her father’s teacher. Rediscovered in the 1990s, she

Lucrezia Quistelli, Mystical Marriage of St Catherine, parish church of S. Maria e S. Pietro, Silvano Pietra (PV).

now has a crater on Venus dedicated to her, as well as a “first” for a woman artist in the form of a 1994 US postage stamp featuring her Madonna and Child.

Only keen art historians and discriminating frequenters of galleries and museums will be familiar with the works of Sophonisba Anguissola of Cremona (1532-1625), to whom Vasari dedicates almost an entire page. Vasari recounts that when she was still a child her father sent some of her drawings to Michelangelo who was most favourably impressed. Sophonisba was one of three sisters, “the noble and gifted sisters”, Vasari calls them, but she was the one to make her mark on the world as a court painter for Philip II of Spain. The famous portrait of Philip in the Prado, originally attributed to the Spanish maestro Alonso Sanchez Coello, is now believed to be her work. After 10 years working in Madrid, the king rewarded her with a high Wanted in Rome • April 2021 | 13

Art astute businesswoman, she was the first woman artist to sign her name on her works – often calling herself “Diana Mantuana” or “Diana Mantovana.”

Many other women artists were nuns, where convent life allowed them to pursue their art untrammelled by domestic duties. Paolo Ucello’s daughter, Antonia Doni (1446-1491), for instance, was a Carmelite who produced exquisite miniatures. Sister Plautilla Nelli (1524-1588), also praised by Vasari, was the prioress of the convent of S. Caterina di Siena in Florence and is considered to be the first Florentine female artist.

She taught herself by copying the drawings and paintings of the great masters and soon became flooded with commissions from the local noble families. Her works can be seen in the churches of S. Maria del Fiore and S. Giovannino.

Elisabetta Sirani, Venere e Amore, private collection.

ranking husband from the Sicilian Moncado family and the couple moved back to Italy.

Later, when she was widowed, she fell in love with Orazio Lomellino, a ship’s captain several years her junior, and settled in Palermo, where she received distinguished visitors such as the acclaimed Flemish painter Anthony van Dyck.

She died aged 93 and was buried in the Church of S. Giorgio dei Genovesi in Palermo. Her devoted husband inscribed on her tomb “....Sofonisba, my wife, who is recorded among the illustrious women of the world.....Orazio Lomellino in sorrow for the loss of his great love.”

The father of Diana Scultori from Mantua (1547-1612) was a sculptor and engraver and she learned her skills from him, despite the fact that printmaking was not considered a suitable occupation for a woman. However Diana was so talented that she was granted a special permit from Pope Gregory XIII to market her work.

Vasari describes her as “a very gentle and gracious girl, and her works, which are most beautiful, struck (him) with amazement.” An 14 | April 2021 • Wanted in Rome

Plautilla’s successful career probably inspired the talented noblewoman Lucrezia Quinistelli della Mirandola (1541-1594), also mentioned

by Vasari. Unfortunately, her work has been lost. That is, all but one. In 2015, in the Church of S. Maria and S. Pietro at Silvano Pietra near Pavia, restorers made an exciting discovery under the grime-encrusted altar piece they were working on. It turned out to be the remarkable “Mystic Marriage of St Catherine” complete with Quinistelli’s signature on the stone under the Virgin’s foot.

Taking the veil was often the only alternative for girls whose families, for one reason or another, could not or would not stump up a suitable dowry. Orsola Maddalena Caccia (1596-1676) was the daughter of the artist Guglielmo Caccia, known as “Il Moncalvo” after his home town in the province of Asti. Caccia consigned all six of his daughters to the Ursuline convent of Brianza but his main motive was probably regard for their safety. The Brianza of the time was a fortified outpost stuck between the lands of the warlike Gonzago family, the Dukes of Mantua and Monferrato and the Duchy of Savoy, where aggressive rival bands were often on the rampage.

However, Caccia missed his daughters so much that he petitioned for permission to build a new Ursuline convent near him at Moncalvo, paying for it with his own money. Only two of the girls became artists but Orsola, in particular, became a much respected painter of religious themes.

Appointed abbess in 1627, she set up an art school in the convent and a business selling the

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Art sisters’ works and continued to paint until well into her 70s.

Giovanna Garzoni (1600-1670) who worked for the Medici family, was famous for her still lifes and her work was so sought after that she could command her own prices.

Vasari died some 20 years before the birth of Artemisia Gentileschi (1593-1653) the only woman artist from the 17th century who could be called a household name today and even then her fame is due more to her turbulent personal history than to her undoubted talent. She was virtually forgotten until last century, when she was “discovered” by the critic Roberto Longhi in 1901 and subsequently became an icon of the feminist movements of the 1960-70s.

Raped by her father’s friend and collaborator Agostino Tassi, she steadfastly upheld her accusations in the Roman courts where she was even subjected to torture in an attempt to make her retract. She won her case, but her triumph was only partial. Tassi was given a nominative sentence of exile, which was never enforced and Artemisia herself was rushed into a marriage of convenience by her father to “save her honour.”

Nonetheless, she went on to have a brilliant career, working at the Spanish court, and was the first woman to be accepted as a member of the Florentine Academy.

She moved in elevated intellectual circles, corresponding with people like Galileo and Leonardo Buonarotti, Michelangelo’s nephew, and meeting up with foreign artists such as Van Dyck and Rubens. She also worked in London for three years, at the royal court of Charles I, along with her father. However, she was forced to leave at the outbreak of the Civil War and return to Italy. She stayed in Naples for the rest of her life and may have died in the plague that hit the Neapolitan city in 1656, wiping out the greater part of the population.

The Royal Palace of Milan (Palazzo Reale) is staging Le Signore dell’Arte, a major exhibition of works by 34 women artists of the 16th and 17th centuries until 25 July. The show is currently closed due to Italy’s covid-19 restrictions although virtual tours have been available with a guide on select days during the lockdown.

For info tel. 0288465230 or see website, www. palazzorealemilano.it.

16 | April 2021 • Wanted in Rome

Orsola Maddalena Caccia, Sibilla Persica, collection of Fondazione Cassa di Risparmio di Asti.

Artemisia Gentileschi, Maria Maddalena, Beirut, Sursock Palace collection.

A FOOTBALL GAME UNLIKE ANY OTHER GET YOUR

TICKETS ON YOUR

MOBILE PHONE

asroma.com/en/ticketing OR SIMPLY SCAN THIS CODE WITH YOUR PHONE

LAGO DI ALBANO This volcanic crater lake presents visitors with beautiful views of its clear water and surrounding forests. The picturesque towns along the shores serve as popular summer resort areas for Romans, including Castel Gandolfo, home to the summer papal palace whose gardens were recently opened to the public. On the other side of the lake is Palazzolo, a villa bought by Rome’s Venerable English College in 1920 and now open to guests. The towns surrounding the lake are known for their restaurants, shops and fruit farms. Swimming, fishing and boating are among the favourite activities for visitors, and the lake’s beach is located on the western shore. A simple 45-minute train ride from Termini, visitors can reach Lago Albano by taking the FL4 train towards Albano Laziale and getting off at the Castel Gandolfo stop.

around rome

LAGO DI BOLSENA Located on the site of the Vulsini volcano, dormant since about 100 BC, this crater lake has two islands and is surrounded by rolling hills and vegetation. The area around Montefisascone on the southeast shore of the lake is famous for its Est! Est!! Est!!! wine. The town of Bolsena in the northeast is a popular tourist resort in summer and it is here that the famous so-called Eucharistic Miracle took place in 1263 when a Bohemian priest is said to have seen blood coming from the host that he had just consecrated at Mass. Capodimonte on the southwest of the lake is also worth a visit. The lakeside area provides activities for sports and nature enthusiasts all year round. The best way to reach Lago di Bolsena from Rome is by car, as buses to Bolsena from Termini Station are infrequent.

LAGO DI NEMI Lago di Nemi is a small and unique volcanic lake where divers in the 19th century discovered two large ships built for the notorious Roman emperor Caligula at the bottom of the lake, filled withbottom of the lake, filled with artworks and treasures.

Replicas of the ships along with other artefacts are on display at the nearby Museum of Roman Ships.

Travellers can also visit the natural caves around the lake, which were a favourite haunt of 19th-century foreign artists such as Turner. Nemi is associated with the cult of the Roman goddess Diana, and, for the last 80 years, an annual strawberry festival.

Visitors can reach the lake by taking the SS7 Appia southbound as far as Genzano, and then following signs for Nemi.

LAGO DI BRACCIANO Just north-west of Rome along the Via Cassia, Lake Bracciano is one of the most easily accessible lakes for Romans. The ban on motor boats (except for a little ferry) means it remains an ideal spot for swimming, sailing and canoeing. The Lega Navale operates a dinghy sailing school in Anguillara.

Churches and historic sites are located in the three small towns around the lake: Bracciano, Trevignano and Anguillara. There are also places for camping and horse riding tours by the lake, which is just an hour on the Viterbo train line from Rome’s Ostiense station. The lake is overlooked by the 15th-century Orsini-Odescalchi castle in Bracciano, often chosen as the venue for jet-set weddings, and there is also an air force museum at nearby Vigna di Valle.

LAGO DI VICO Formed by the volcanic activity of Mount Venus, Lago di Vico offers a unique geological backdrop set amid lush woodland and hills. The surrounding nature reserve is a haven for wildlife, but what is most characteristic of the area are the hazel and chestnut plantations. Lakeside campsites and hotels offer swimming, sailing and horse riding. The two towns worth a visit are Ronciglione and Caprarola with its magnificent and recently restored Villa Farnese. Lago di Vico is a 90-minute drive from Rome taking the SS2 Cassia, and turning north at Sutri.

LAGO DI MARTIGNANO This tiny volcanic lake just to the east of Lake Bracciano offers clean water and beaches with scenic views of the surrounding meadows and wildlife. Lago di Martignano is known for its outdoor activities such as horse riding, hiking, mountain biking and swimming. Umbrellas, loungers and luggage storage are available to rent along with canoes, sailboats and windsurfing equipment. It is also known for the hot sulphurous springs surrounding the lake. Arriving at Lago di Martignano by car is the easiest option. Reaching the lake by public transport involves taking the FM3 train to Cesano and opting for either a local bus or taxi.

18 | January 2021 • Wanted in Rome

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ARTandSEEK Please note that not all of these activites English-language culturaldue workshops visits to are currently open, to theand covid-19 museums and exhibitions for children in Rome.

For crisis. It is advisable to check websites event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforfor visiting details and make reservation kids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandsebefore going. ekforkids.com.

Bioparco Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and offers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it.

Bowling Silvestri This sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.

20 | April 2021 • Wanted in Rome

There are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com.

Casa del Parco Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com.

Casina di Raffaello Play centre in Villa Borghese offering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Raffaello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadiraffaello.it.

Cinecittà World This 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special effects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it.

Climbing Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds.

Tues, Thurs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473.

Explora The 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it.

Go-karting Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel.

0665004962, www.kartroma.it.

Gymboree This children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, offering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it.

Hortis Urbis Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it.

Il Nido Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.

Luneur Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it.

Rainbow Magicland The 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it.

Time Elevator A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. The time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it.

Zoomarine This amusement and aquatic park outside Rome offers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.

Rome’s artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant importantstreet street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre.

Here is where to is find Rome’s mainthe street artstreet projects murals. from the centre.

Here where to find main artand projects and murals around Rome.

Esquilino Esquilino Murals Murals byby Alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Pistone, Nicola Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Alessandrini, Diamond.

Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, Piazza Fanti 47.

PiazzaMafredo Manfredo Fanti 47.

Marconi Marconi The The M.A.G.R. M.A.G.R. (Museo (Museo Abusivo Abusivo Gestito Gestitodai daiRom), Rom),a aproject projectby byFrench French street artistSeth Seth is located in a street artist is located in a former former soap factory Via Antonio soap factory on Viaon Antonio AvogaAvogadro, opposite dro, opposite Ostiense'sOstiense’s landmark landmark Gasometro. details see Gasometro.

For For details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com.

Museodell’Altro dell’Altroe edell’Altrove dell’Altrovedidi Museo Metropoliz Metropoliz This former former meat meat factory factory inin the the This outskirts of of Rome art outskirts Rome isis now nowa astreet street museum being home hometoto art museumasaswell well as as being some200 200squatting squatters,migrants. many of The them some migrants.

The Museo dell’Altrodi e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altroveor diMAAM, Metropoliz, or MAAM, Metropoliz, is only open only open Saturdays, and onis Saturdays, andon features the work the work of moreincluding than 300 offeatures more than 300 artists artists including Gio Edoardo Kobra,Edoardo Gio Kobra, Pistone, Pistone, Sten&Lex Diamond.and See Sten&Lex, Pablo and Echaurren MAAM Facebook page for details.

Borondo.

See MAAM Facebook page Via Prenestina 913. for details. Via Prenestina 913.

Ostiense Ostiense Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Fluviale.

Porto Fluviale.

Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via Fish’n’Kids

by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Fluviale.

Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Wall of Fame

by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali.

Magazzini Generali.

Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Shelley by Ozmo.

Ostiense Via Ostiense. underpass, Via Ostiense.

Palazzo occupato

by Blu, Via Ostiense.

Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense.

Pigneto Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Pigneto Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

22 | April 2021 • Wanted in Rome

Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi.

Lodi.

2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio.

Fortebraccio.

2501 mural on Via Blu

by Sten Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Francesco Baracca.

Francesco Baracca.

Prati Prati Anna Magnaniportrait portrait

by Diavù.

Anna Magnani

by Diavù.

Nuovo Nuovo MercatoViaTrionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Andrea Doria.

Andrea Doria. theSabotino. bear by Daniza the bear byDaniza ROA. Via ROA. Via Sabotino.

Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via The Roadkill

by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai.

Cristoforo Numai.

Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing the Bembo.

Minotaur by Pixelpancho.

Via Pietro Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo.

Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Tunnel byMure.

Mr THOMS and Pistone. murals Via Decio Gio Decio Mure. Via del NidoPistone. di Vespe Via

by Lucamaleonte.

Nido didel Vespe

by Lucamaleonte. Via Monte Grano. del Monte Baby Hulkdel byGrano.

Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89.

Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Murals

by Blu. Via Palombini (Casal dèCiciliano Pazzi). and Via Palombini dè Pazzi).

Welcome to(Casal Rebibbia

by Zerocalcare.

Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare.

Metro B station.

Metro B station.

S. Basilio S.SanBa Basilio features large-scale works on SanBa features large-scale works the façades of social-housing blockson in the of social-housing blocks the façades disadvantaged north-east suburb of in the disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerasuburb of S.includes Basilio works near Rebibbia. tion project

by Italian The project artistsregeneration Agostino Iacurci, Hitnesincludes and Blu works

by Spain's ItalianLiqen. artistsViaAgostino alongside Maiolati, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Spain’s Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia.

S. Giovanni Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S.Apulia Giovanni corner of Via Farsalo.

Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

It’s aa New NewDay Daybyby Alice Pasquini.

It’s Alice Pasquini.

Via Via Anton Ludovico.

Anton Ludovico.

S. Lorenzo Lorenzo S. AlicePasquini.

Pasquini.

ViaSabelli. dei Sabelli.

Alice Via dei Feminicidemural mural Elisa Feminicide

by Elisaby Caracciolo.

Caracciolo.

Via Dei Sardi.Via Dei Sardi.

Borondo. Via Viadei deiVolsci Volsci159.

159.

Borondo.

Mural by

by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia.

Via Aquilonia.

Pietro S. Pietro UmaCabra Cabra Bordalo II. Stazione Uma byby Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, di Monte di S. Clivo Pietro, Clivo del di Gallo.

Monte del Gallo.

Testaccio Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani.

Testaccio #KindComments AliceVia Pasquini, Via Hunted Wolf bybyROA. Galvani.

Volta, Testaccio market. #KindComments

by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market.

Tor Pignattara Dulk.

Via Antonio Tempesta.

Tor Pignattara Etnik.

Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51.

Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta.

Coffee Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Etnik.Break ViabyBartolomeo Perestrello Pavoni.

51. Coffee Break by Etam Cru. Via Tom SawyerPavoni.

by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Ludovico Serbelloni.

Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Gabrio Serbelloni.

Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante.

Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante.

Alessi.

Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Herakut. Via Capua 14.

Galeazzo Alessi.

Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6.

Herakut. Via Capua 14.

Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6.

Tor Marancia The Big City Life scheme features 14-m Tormurals Marancia tall by 22 Italian and internaThe Big City artists Life scheme features tional street including Mr 14-m tall

by Jerico.

22 Italian and Klevra, Seth,murals Gaia and The idea international street was to transform theartists area's including blocks of Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. flats into an open-air art museum.

Via TheMarancia. idea was to transform the area’s Tor www.bigcity.life.it. blocks of flats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Wanted in Rome • April 2021 | 23

ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS PLEASE NOTE THAT NOT ALL OF THESE MUSEUMS ARE CURRENTLY OPEN, DUE TO THE COVID-19 CRISIS. IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS AND MAKE RESERVATION BEFORE GOING.

VATICAN MUSEUMS

Crypta Balbi

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va.

Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00.

Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday.

Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio.

09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30.

Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

24 | April 2021 • Wanted in Rome

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it.

National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid.

Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection.

09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

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Wanted in Rome • April 2021 | 25

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it.

Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant.

09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists.

Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Capitoline Museums

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it.

The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

MACRO Asilo

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space until the end of 2019. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

MATTATOIO

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org.

Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00.

Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00.

Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron.

Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00.

Guided tours on prior booking.

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it.

Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Museo Canonica

Palazzo Merulana

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959.

09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Guided tours in Italian and English.

26 | April 2021 • Wanted in Rome

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it.

Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation.

09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

Wanted in Rome • April 2021 | 27

PLEASE NOTE THAT NOT ALL OF THESE GALLERIES ARE CURRENTLY OPEN, DUE TO THE COVID-19 CRISIS. IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS AND TO MAKE RESERVATION BEFORE GOING.

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ff-maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Visual art, design, architecture, fashion design and beauty apothecary in a 17th-century palace. Via dei Barbieri 7, tel.

0668805928, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Delfini, Via dei Delfini 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel.

0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pastificio Cerere

This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel.

0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

28 | January 2021 • Wanted in Rome

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel.

C 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

M

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art Y gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via CM Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

MY

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconvenCY tional art works at affordable prices by artists working in various fields. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, CMY www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

K

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo

Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists.

Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel.

0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel.

066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

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tudy abroad or earn your degree in Rome

All classes in English Scholarships available Accepting applications for 2021

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Wanted in Rome • April 2021 | 29

MAXXI amazes you, always art

architecture design photography cinema

30 | April 2021 • Wanted in Rome

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Galleria Russo

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel.

066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions.

Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Galleria Varsi

Plus Arte Puls

A dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di Grotta Pinta 38, tel. 066865415, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Gavin Brown's Enterprise

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

RvB ARTS

Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.

Sala 1

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

La Nuova Pesa

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists.

Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino d’Arte Moderna

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel.

0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

Monitor

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

Nero Gallery

The Gallery Apart

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

Nomas Foundation

TraleVolte

This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel.

0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

White Noise Gallery

Based in the S. Lorenzo district, this gallery exhibits unconventional work by young Italian and international artists. Via della Seggiola 9, tel. 066832833, www.whitenoisegallery.it.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists.

Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

Wanted in Rome • January 2021 | 31

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WHAT’S ON

Teatro dell'Opera di Roma stages a new production of La Traviata. Photo Fabrizio Sansoni/TOR. See page Wanted in Rome • April 2021 |39.

33

EXHIBITIONS At the time of writing, museums and archaeological sites in Rome are closed, with the Lazio region currently classified as a medium-risk orange zone under Italy's coronavirus restrictions. In order for museums to open the region must be a lower-risk yellow zone and it is unclear when Lazio will return to this category. If museums reopen in April, the exhibitions below should still be showing, MonFri only and with advance booking required. For updates check individual museum websites as well as our website, www.wantedinrome.com.

IO DICO IO - I SAY I 1 MARCH-23 MAY

The Galleria Nazionale delle Arte Moderna (GNAM) stages an exhibition comprising works by around 50 Italian women artists from varying generations and backgrounds. The gallery says the show “originates from a necessity to take the floor and speak for oneself in order to assert one’s subjectivity,” and “looks deep into the word we already have, feminism.” The artists whose work is on on display include Carla Accardi, Vanessa Beecroft, Lisetta Carmi, Isabella Ducrot,

Alberto Savinio at Palazzo Altemps.

Marisa Merz, Elisa Montessori, Antonietta Raphaël, Tatiana Trouvé and Francesca Woodman. Galleria Nazionale, Viale delle Belle Arti 131, www.lagallerianazionale.com.

ALBERTO SAVINIO: INCANTO E MITO 8 FEB-13 JUNE

Palazzo Altemps provides the magnificent backdrop to this exhibition of works by Alberto Savinio (1891-1952) an intellectual figure whose multiple interests ranged from music to literature, painting and theatre. Savinio, a brother of Giorgio de Chirico, combined ancient and modern, aesthetics and irony, memory and fantasy in his work which is displayed among the museum’s collection of classical sculpture. The exhibition is divided into three sections and features around 90 paintings and prints created mainly between

1925 and 1931 with a particular focus on the artist’s years in Paris.

Museo Nazionale Romano di Palazzo Altemps, Piazza di S. Apollinare 46, www.museonazionaleromano. beniculturali.it.

QUADRIENNALE DI ROMA

The 2020 Quadriennale di Roma, a major showcase of contemporary Italian art in the capital, opens later this month to continue a tradition begun in Rome in 1931. The 17th edition of the art fair, which will feature the work of 43 artists in an exhibition that promises to offer an “unprecedented perspective” on Italian art, will occupy both floors of Palazzo delle Esposizioni.

Quadriennale president Umberto Croppi said that the event – curated

by Sarah Cosulich and Stefano Collicelli Cagol, with the support of the Italian culture ministry – will act as a grand revival for Italian contemporary art. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.

THE TORLONIA MARBLES: COLLECTING MASTERPIECES 1 FEB-29 JUNE

Lisetta Carmi I Travestiti, la Gilda 1965-67 @Lisetta Carmi. Martina Ronchetti

34 | April 2021 • Wanted in Rome

Part of the legendary Torlonia Collection, considered among the world’s most important private collections of Greek-Roman classical art, has at long last gone on public display in Rome. The muchanticipated exhibition has been delayed and closed several times due to the covid-19 crisis. Villa Caffarelli at the city’s Capitoline Museums displays 92 pieces from

the priceless collection of 620 ancient sculptures. The revered “collection of collections,” which comprises marble, bronze and alabaster statues, busts, bas-reliefs and sarcophagi dating to the ancient Roman era – amassed between the 15th- and 19th centuries – will come to light after being largely hidden away for 70 years. The former Museo Torlonia opened in 1875 on Via della Lungara in Rome’s Trastevere quarter, however in the post-war period access to the palace’s 77 rooms was granted only occasionally to experts or visiting dignitaries. In 1976 the museum closed definitively, to make way for luxury apartments, and the priceless collection was moved to the basement of another private Roman palace owned by the aristocratic Torlonia family. For more than four decades the collection has been kept in storage, despite attempts by successive governments to persuade the noble family to either sell or display the works in public. Now, thanks to several years of talks between Italy’s culture ministry and the Torlonia Foundation – the organisation that administers the family’s assets – some of the collection’s most important marble and alabaster works are on public display. The works have been restored in a project financed by luxury jeweller Bulgari, and there are plans to find a venue in Rome in which to display the collection to the public on a permanent basis. Villa Caffarelli, Capitoline Museums, tel.

060608, www.museicapitolini.org.

An exhibition at the Colosseum explores the links between Pompeii and ancient Rome.

research, and is enriched by videos and virtual projections. The show is displayed on the second tier of the Colosseum and is divided into three large sections – the alliance phase, the Roman colony phase, the decline and end of Pompeii.

For visiting details see website, www.parcocolosseo.it.

NANCY CADOGAN: GUSTO 1 FEB-31 MAY

The Keats-Shelley House Museum reopens Gusto, an exhibition of new work commissioned from Nancy Cadogan. The British figurative artist was tasked with creating a series of paintings that celebrated the life and legacy of the Romantic poet John Keats and to mark the 200th anniversary of his death on 23 Feb 2021. The Keats-Shelley House describes her body of work as a “deeply thoughtful and considered series of oil paintings, referencing her learned knowledge of Keats’s work and grounded

in symbolism and hope for an uncertain future.” Piazza di Spagna 26, www.ksh.roma.it.

JOSEF KOUDELKA: RADICI 1 FEB-16 MAY

The Ara Pacis Museum dedicates an exhibition to Josef Koudelka, the award-winning Czech photographer from the Magnum Photos agency, with more than 100 spectacular images of ancient Roman and Greek heritage. As the title suggests, the exhibition highlights Koudelka’s photographic journey in search of the roots of our history in the most important archaeological sites in the Mediterranean. The black and white “timeless views” on display are part of a travelling exhibition featuring the work of the photographer who was born in Moravia in 1938. For visiting details see Ara Pacis website.

Museo dell’Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, ww.arapacis.it.

POMPEII 79 AD: A ROMAN STORY 8 FEB-9 MAY

The Colosseum hosts an “unprecedented” exhibition that examines the history of the longstanding relationship between Rome and Pompeii. The exhibition comprises almost 100 pieces and reconstructs the complex dialogue that linked the two most famous sites in Italian archaeology from the Second Samnite War to the eruption of 79 AD. The display is centred around the reconstruction of social and cultural relations, traceable in particular through archaeological

Nancy Cadogan with her exhibition Gusto at the Keats-Shelley House.

Wanted in Rome • April 2021 | 35

ART NEWS VISIT ROME MUSEUMS WITH NEW VIRTUAL TOURS

Rome’s museums may be closed due to covid-19 restrictions but that does not mean their riches cannot still be explored, thanks to new interactive virtual tours launched by the city. The immersive digital experience, available in Italian and English, is a valuable new resource for scholars, students and all those passionate about Rome’s cultural heritage. Visitors can take a full-screen virtual tour of eight museums thanks to 360-degree photographs, videos, audio, informative text, smart maps, overhead perspectives and tips about collection highlights. The interactive tours are available at the Capitoline Museums, Ara Pacis, Napoleonic Museum, Trajan’s Markets - Museum of the Imperial Fora, Casino Nobile at Villa Torlonia, Centrale Montemartini, Museo di Roma and the Museo delle Mura.

Supported by the capital’s superintendence for cultural heritage, the project was created by Skylab Studios whose experts used drones to give the user up-close access to the museums’ masterpieces and ancient treasures. The virtual tours, available on any device from tablets to smartphones, is a significant development particularly during the age of lockdowns and lack of international travel. For details see Musei in Comune website, www.museiincomune.it.

Separately the Keats-Shelley House in Rome offers two virtual tours and also one to mark the 200th anniversary of Keats’ death, see www.kshroma.it.

POMPEII RESTORES HOUSE OF CEII FRESCO

Pompeii has completed a major restoration on a large fresco in the garden of the House of the Ceii, bringing its intense colours back to life with the help of laser technology. The fresco depicts a hunting scene with pygmies and wild animals from the Nile Delta amid Egyptian-style landscapes, suggesting an interest in the cult of Isis on behalf of the owner, reputedly the magistrate Lucius Ceius Secundus. Experts used both laser technology and traditional methods to restore the fresco which had suffered progressive deterioration over the years due to humidity, lack of adequate maintenance and unsuitable restoration practices. The veneer of paint was cleaned using a laser, recovering significant sections of the fresco, particularly the botanical details, and measures were undertaken to ensure that it would be protected from any future infiltration of rainwater.

Excavated between 1913 and 1914, the Casa dei Ceii dates to the late Samnite period in the second century BC, according to the Pompeii archaeological park.

JR installation at Palazzo Strozzi.

in collaboration with the Fondazione Palazzo Strozzi and the city of Florence, offers a virtual peep inside the closed palace and is designed to spark a debate on the accessibility of culture in the era of covid-19. Palazzo Strozzi said its decision to create an outdoor artwork that “everyone can see” can be interpreted both as “an invitation to rediscover a direct relationship with art and as an encouragement to explore new forms of sharing and participation.” For more details see Palazzo Strozzi website, www.palazzostrozzi.org.

Andy Devane

FLORENCE UNVEILS STREET ART AT PALAZZO STROZZI

The Renaissance façade of Florence’s Palazzo Strozzi has been transformed by the celebrated French street artist JR who has created a striking site-specific installation entitled La Ferita (The Wound). The photorealistic work, created

36 | April 2021 • Wanted in Rome

Marcus Aurelius at the Capitoline Museums.

––

ANZAC DAY ANZAC 2021DAY 2021 ANZAC DAY 2021

The New Zealand and The Australian New Zealand Embassies and Australian in RomeEmbassies in Rome tewill ANZAC commemorate Day with ANZAC a virtual Day Memorial with aService virtualfrom Memorial the War Service Cemetery from the in Rome.

War Ce

The ceremony can The viewed ceremony fromcan bea.m. viewed on Sunday from 9.00 25 a.m.

Aprilon Sunday 25 April The NewbeZealand and9.00 Australian Embassies in Rome the New Zealand onEmbassy the New and Zealand Australian Embassy Embassy and Australian FacebookEmbassy pages. Facebook pag

will commemorate ANZAC Day with a virtual Memorial Service

from the War Cemetery in Rome.

The ceremony can be viewed from 9.00 a.m. on Sunday 25 April on the New Zealand Embassy and Australian Embassy Facebook pages.

38 | April 2021 • Wanted in Rome

FORMULA E Formula E returns to Rome after last year's edition was cancelled due to the coronavirus, with 24 batterypowered electric cars battling it out on the streets of the city's southern EUR suburb on 10-11 April. This will be the third time for Rome to welcome the world’s fastest electric cars after it hosted the inaugural FIA Formula E World Championship in 2018. This year the event will not be open to spectators in person however the race

Rome hosts the E-Prix for the third time.

will be screened by Sky Sport Arena and Canale 20 Mediaset as well as via the Formula E website. The route of the 2021 edition has been revised, with the start line moving from Via Cristoforo Colombo to Largo Parri, taking in the local landmarks such as Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana and Palazzo dei Congressi. The electric cars emit almost zero emissions and are powered by batteries charged by glycerine. However despite the car’s

environmentally-friendly credentials, it is still capable of considerable speed – up to 225 km per hour, or 0-100 km in three seconds. The fully-powered car can run for just 25 minutes, meaning drivers must change vehicles roughly half way through the race which lasts about 50 minutes. There will be numerous road closures in the EUR area the week before the race. For details see website, www.fiaformulae.com.

opera Judging by its new opera and ballet productions Teatro dell'Opera di Roma has turned the covid-19 lockdown into a wonderfully creative opportunity. First came its summer opera Rigoletto at Circo Massimo, then ll Barbiere di Siviglia staged as a film in the opera theatre. In January it was I Puritani in concert form.

On 9 April the opera theatre stages a new production of La Traviata, again as a film using the opera theatre's spaces. In cooperation with Rai-Culture and Rai3, Daniele Gatti will conduct the theatre's orchestra, with Mario Martone as director.

Teatro dell'Opera di Roma stages a new production of La Traviata. Photo Fabrizio Sansoni/TOR.

Gatti and Martone were the team responsible for the success of Il Barbiere which opened the season in December. The key cast of this unusual production of La Traviata will be led by Lisette Oropesa, with the Albanian tenor Saimu Pirgu and Roberto Frontali baritone. Costumes

are designed by Anna Biagiotti and photography by Pasquale Mari.

On 11 April the Teatro dell'Opera will stream its 2012 ballet production Concerto in Oro choreography by Alessandro Bigonzetti to music by Schubert.

Wanted in Rome • April 2021 | 39

CLASSICAL

Pianist Andrea Lucchesini features on the Accademia Filarmonica Romana YouTube channel.

ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA

Faced by another lockdown, musical programmes are all over the place again. It is too early to know what streamed live concerts S. Cecilia has in store for April, so keep an eye on its website for its digital streaming programme. Throughout the winter it has been offering streamed concerts at the rate about one a week.

This may have brought in new audiences, people who don't normally go to S. Cecilia concerts at the Auditorium Parco della Musica. But how demoralising it must be for musicians not to have the enthusiastic support of a live audience.

For those of us who now tune in to the streamed concerts it is of course wonderful to be able to see the orchestra perform, but there is something so mournful about the echo of conductors' footsteps as

40 | April 2021 • Wanted in Rome

they walk on stage in silence, or the gentle tapping applause of the orchestra as the conductor walks off again at the end of of the concert.

Thankfully, the summer festival season is almost here, when there will be possibilities to perform outdoors. But how difficult it must be to keep the momentum of any programming going, when it is almost impossible to book soloists, to move around the country, to travel abroad or to know where the income will come from next.

See website www.santacecilia.it/ en/digitalseason.

THE ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA

The Filarmonica Romana is also trying to keep going as best it can as it celebrates the bicentenary of its foundation. There is an interesting conversation between pianist Andrea Lucchesini and the stage director Cesare Scarton on the

academy's YouTube channel. They discuss the history and development of the Accademia and its importance to the world of musical theatre in Rome. Scarton also remembers how he was inspired by the full-house performance of the Accademia's events at the Teatro Olimpico as a young child.

The Filarmonica was founded in 1821 by a group of amateur musicians and in 1824 was recognised by the papal states as an official musical institution for training students. It closed between 1849 and 1856 because of funding problems and then was disbanded by the papal authorities in 1860 for being too liberal. It opened again in 1870. One of its early collaborators was Gaetano Donizetti.

See website www.filarmonicaromana. org.

Wanted in Rome • April 2021 | 41

lassical lassical

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city.

The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city.

There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums.

Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it.

All www.filarmonicaromana.org.

The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All

concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica.

Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza,

Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone 32a, RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome.

often concerts, festivals and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and7 the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year.

There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades

by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards.

Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com | Jan 2019 • Wanted Rome 50 |48 Oct 2018 • Wanted in in Rome

MUSIC MUSIC THEATR THEATRE CINEMA CINEMA VENUES VENUES

cc

MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

c

inema inema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals.

See Wantedshow in Rome website for The following cinemas movies in English weekly updates. or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for Adriano, Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 weeklyPiazza updates.

Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel.

Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 0686391361 Barberini, Piazza BarberiniMastroianni 24-26, 1, tel.

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello 0686391361 tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 068553485 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel.

Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel.

068553485 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel.

Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel.

Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel.

Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 066861068 Odeon, Piazza Stefano 22, tel.

Nuovo Sacher, LargoJacini Ascianghi 1, 0686391361 tel. 065818116

Space Moderno, Piazza della 44, tel.

Odeon, Piazza Stefano JaciniRepubblica 22, tel. 0686391361 06892111 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel.

Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec06892111 chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Wanted in Rome • February 2021 | 43

ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

op

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel.

0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel.

065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel.

Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,

t

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel.

06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel.

06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel.

Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel.

06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net 50 | Jan 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel.

0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel.

14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel.

065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel.

PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel.

0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel.

Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel.

06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel.

Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel.

0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel.

Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel.

063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Wanted51in| Oct Rome • February | 45 2018 • Wanted2021 in Rome

38

Wanted in Rome | December 2017

An Education for Life that will make the difference

Castelli International School

International Elementary and Middle School

www.castelli-international.it

48 | February 2021 • Wanted in Rome

By Kate Zagorski

GNOCCHI ALLA ROMANA The Roman take on gnocchi is a far cry from the pillowy potato dumplings usually associated with the name. Golden medallions made of semolina flour, milk, butter and parmesan are layered, covered with more butter and cheese, and baked in the oven until crisp to create a soul-nourishing bowl of comfort.

Interestingly, the use of ingredients such as butter and parmesan rather than the local Lazio olive oil and pecorino cheese, suggests that there was a northern influence on the recipe’s origins, perhaps from Piemonte, but nowadays, as the name confirms, the dish has earned its deserved place in the catalogue of cucina romana.

The dough is simple and, as it needs time to cool in the fridge, can be made in advance. The basic recipe calls for the gnocchi to be covered with butter and parmesan before baking but the version below takes it a step further by also using fresh sage and garlic (if desired) to add extra flavour and aroma.

Ingredients (Serves 4)

250g semolina flour 125g butter 1 litre milk 2 egg yolks

140g parmesan, grated 1 bunch fresh sage 1 clove garlic (optional) Salt Nutmeg

• Heat the milk in a saucepan along with 25g of the butter, a pinch of salt and a generous grating of nutmeg. Once the milk begins to boil, gradually add the semolina flour, whisking continuously to avoid any lumps forming. Keep stirring the mixture over a low heat for a few minutes until it begins to thicken. Remove from the heat and stir in the egg yolks with a spoon. Add 100g of the parmesan and mix well until everything is combined.

• Pour the mixture onto a sheet of baking paper, divide into two and roll each piece with your fingers to form two long cylinders about 5cm wide. Roll each piece separately in baking paper and place in the fridge for at least half an hour to cool completely.

When you are ready to bake the gnocchi, heat the oven to 200°C and grease a baking dish.

• Take the cylinders out of the fridge, remove the baking paper and use a sharp, wet knife to cut them into circular medallions about 1cm thick. Meanwhile heat the remaining butter in a small saucepan with a few fresh sage leaves and a whole clove of garlic (if desired). Once the butter has melted and infused, discard the garlic leaving the sage leaves.

• Layer the gnocchi all over the base of the baking dish, overlapping them slightly. Pour the sage butter all over the surface of the gnocchi, sprinkle over the remaining parmesan and top with a few more fresh sage leaves.

• Bake in the oven for 15-20 minutes until the top is golden and crispy. Serve immediately.

The best cacio e pepe in Rome, seven unmissable restaurants Cacio e pepe is the quintessential Roman pasta dish, made with simple ingredients but far from simple to prepare. There are those who like it with hand-made tonnarello, and those who prefer spaghetti. Here are the best cacio e pepe restaurants in Rome, according to Puntarella Rossa.

7. FLAVIO AL VELAVEVODETTO In Testaccio, chef and restaurateur Flavio De Maio serves the finest specialities of Roman cuisine. Flavio's cacio e pepe recipe doesn’t call for a frying pan, but for a ‘mantecatura’ off the heat with pecorino romano, black pepper, the cooking water from the pasta and a dash of olive oil (“to ensure that when the dish cools down, the cheese mixes with the oil and adds a burst of flavour, taking the edge off the pecorino”). Price: €11.

6. DA FELICE Since Felice Trivelloni opened his osteria in 1936, the restaurant has been something of an institution for Roman cuisine. Their forte is indeed the cacio e pepe; it is plentiful and delicious and made with tonnarelli, cooking water from the pasta, pecorino and olive oil, for an irresistible creaminess.

The finishing touch is the way in which it’s served: the pasta, cooking water and pecorino are mixed directly on the customer’s plate. Price: €13.

5. DA DANILO The cacio e pepe served at Trattoria Da Danilo in Esquillino is definitely one of the most renowned in the city. The most famous dish is, of course, the tonnarelli cacio e pepe, made with olive oil, freshly ground black pepper, cooking water from the pasta and pecorino romano. The difference at Danilo is that the pasta is mixed together directly in the pecorino romano wheel itself. The result is a superb creaminess and an intense flavour. Price: €10.

4. DA CESARE Here you can enjoy two versions of cacio e pepe, one with dry pasta (spaghetti, rigatoni), or fresh, handmade tonnarelli.

Chef Leonardo Vignoli explains that to make cacio e pepe you need to mix the ground black pepper with the grated pecorino romano (which should have been matured for 6 months minimum) and a little cold water, then add the al dente spaghetti and give it a first mix off the heat. You should then

add a generous spoonful of cooking water from the pasta, put it back on the heat and stir it until it is creamy. Price: €9.

3. VYTA ENOTECA REGIONALE DEL LAZIO At Vyta you can try two versions of cacio e pepe, the classic variety or the summer version: tonnarelli, pecorino romano, fresh pepper, lemon and Roman mint. Here’s the recipe for a 500g serving: cook the tonnarelli in lots of salted water. While the pasta is still on the heat, take a spoonful of the cooking water and put it in a large saucepan. Add ground pepper to the water. Drain the pasta, put in pan and mix. Keep the pan on the heat and mix very slowly, using 100g of pecorino and grated lemon rind. Keep stirring until there’s the creaminess of cacio e pepe. Then add mint leaves. Serve immediately, adding another 50g of pecorino. Price: €13.

2. LA TERRAZZA DELL’HOTEL EDEN At the Hotel Eden, one of Rome’s most exclusive hotels, award-winning chef Fabio Ciervo is famous for his spaghetti cacio e pepe from Madagascar. He has reinterpreted the Roman pasta dish with thick spaghetti, chicken stock, pecorino romano, rose petals and black pepper from Madagascar.

This is without a doubt one of the best cacio e pepe in Rome, but it is very expensive in comparison to our other favourites.

Price: €45.

1. ROSCIOLI Established in 1824 and run by a family spanning four generations, Roscioli is a renowned Roman restaurant. Its menu includes all the classic Roman dishes but the star of the show is the cacio e pepe. And so what’s in theirs? Tonnarelli, pecorino romano, cheese from Moliterno, pecorino that has been matured in the earth from Sogliano and Malaysian pepper. It’s not such a simple list as the mix of cheeses gives the dish a special flavour. At the very end, Javan and Sarawakan pepper are ground together and then toasted as the finishing touch – it’s sensational. Price: €12.

www.puntarellarossa.it

Felice, Via Mastro Giorgio 29, tel. 065746800, www.feliceatestaccio.it Da Danilo, Via Petrarca 13, tel. 0677200111, www.trattoriadadanilo.com Da Cesare, Via del Casaletto 45, tel. 06536015, www.trattoriadacesare.it VyTa, Via Frattina 94, tel. 0647786876, www.vytaenotecalazio.it La Terrazza Hotel Eden, Via Ludovisi 49, www.dorchestercollection.com/en/rome/hotel-eden Roscioli, Via dei Giubbonari 21, tel. 066875287, www.salumeriaroscioli.com

Indirizzi

Flavio al Velavevodetto, Via di Monte Testaccio 97, tel. 065744194, www.ristorantevelavevodetto.it

Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com

Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

52 | February 2021 • Wanted in Rome

Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

RICERCA E SELEZIONE DEL PERSONALE Un team di consulenti motivati e altamente qualificati con pluriennale esperienza e certificato know-how, individuano e selezionano candidati ideali in ruoli di prestigio all’interno di una vasta gamma di settori e di aziende.

RESEARCH AND SELECTION OF STAFF A team of highly motivated and qualified consultants, with many years of experience and certified know-how behind them, identify and select the best possible candidates to cover all required roles within a structure.

Via Germanico, 172 00192 Roma (+39) 06 8392 5480

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

54 | January 2021 • Wanted in Rome

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers • • • • • • •

Ambulance tel. 118 Carabinieri tel. 112 Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 Fire brigade tel. 115 Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 Police tel. 113 Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355

Prince Jonathan Doria Pamphilj and Sir Ivor Roberts, Chair of the Keats-Shelley Memorial Association request the pleasure of your company

at a Champagne Reception, Gala Supper and Evening of Drama and Music; with an exclusive Tour of the Palazzo's Galleries and a production of "Life is but a Day" a celebration of Keats in his own words

by Angus Graham-Campbell on behalf of the KSMA and Keats-Shelley 200

On Saturday 12th June 2021 at 7 p.m.

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, Rome Dress code: Smart/ Black Tie optional Ticket price: € 450

RSVP: info@keats-shelley-house.org

Mater Dei SpA - Dir. San.: Dr. G. Cervelli - Aut. Reg. Lazio n. D0111 del 17-03-03

IN YOUR BUSINESS

INFIRMARY IN YOUR SIEROLOGICAL TEST COVID-19 CHECK UP

Companies certified with ISO 9001:2015 Quality Management System

YOUR PRIVATE

HOSPITALS Via A. Bertoloni, 34 00197 Rome

Paideia SpA - Dir. San.: Dr. A. Lamanna - Aut. Reg. Lazio n. 1072 del 10-12-02

COMPANY

IN ROME CONTACT US Via V. Tiberio, 46 00191 Rome

06.330945421 lineaziende@clinicapaideia.it