The Expat Guide to Rome 2021

THE EXPAT GUIDE TO

AND ITS WELL-KEPT SECRETS

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Direttore Responsabile: Marco Venturini Executive editor: Andy Devane Editrice Società della Rotonda srl, Via delle Coppelle 9, 00186 Rome Supplemento al numero 7 Wanted in Rome di Luglio/Agosto 2021 Registrazione in tribunale 118 del 30/3/2009, già inscritta con il numero 131 del 6/3/1985 Stampa: G Stampati snc Finito di Stampare: June 2021 Graphics: Dali Studio srl www.dalistudio.com Contacts: editorial@wantedinrome.com advertising@wantedinrome.com Website: www.wantedinrome.com www.wantedineurope.com www.wantedinafrica.com www.wantedinmilan.com © Società della Rotonda srl All rights reserved

EDITORIALS 7. DEALING WITH RED TAPE IN ITALY 12. RENTING RESIDENTIAL PROPERTIES IN ITALY

CONT MISCELLANY

18. a day out 27. curiosities 74. rome’s well-kept secrets 78. activities for children 83. areas 156. useful numbers

Direttore Responsabile: Marco Venturini Executive editor: Andy Devane Editrice Società della Rotonda srl, Via delle Coppelle 9, 00186 Rome Supplemento al numero 7 Wanted in Rome di Luglio/Agosto 2021 Registrazione in tribunale 118 del 30/3/2009, già inscritta con il numero 131 del 6/3/1985 Stampa: Graffietti Stampati snc Finito di Stampare: June 2021 Graphics: Dali Studio srl www.dalistudio.com Special Thanks: Gabrielle Bolzoni, Alberto Paveri Fontana, Guido Favaro, Giacomo Matarazzo, Patrizia del Biondo, Federica de Carlo, Francesco Fornaciari, Paolo Ghiringhelli Contacts: editorial@wantedinrome.com advertising@wantedinrome.com Website: www.wantedinrome.com www.wantedineurope.com www.wantedinafrica.com www.wantedinmilan.com © Società della Rotonda srl All rights reserved

ENTS 27 curiosities

7

74

DEALING WITH RED TAPE IN ITALY

ROME SECRETS

78

activities for children

Wanted in Rome 5

Legal Affairs

DEALING WITH RED TAPE IN ITALY Guide to help expats navigate their way through Italian bureaucracy Geoffrey Watson Many expats protest about bureaucracy in Italy, but let’s be fair: this scourge exists in every society. And as more and more forms need to be filled in online, with computers rejecting our answers and unable to understand our attempts to tell them who we are, frustration can quickly build up.

Smith as you always thought, you are Smith John.

It is tempting to object that nobody would think to refer to the president of the republic as Mattarella Sergio, but there it is – we’re supposed to introduce ourselves that way. To be fair, it probably makes a lot more sense for a long list of schoolkids’ parents or newsletter subscribers to be sorted with all the Rossis together rather than all the Giovannas.

Here’s a brief guide to how to talk to computers (and unfriendly officials) who ask us who we are – be it to open a bank account, apply for an identity card, or simply start any official enquiry in Italy.

In Italy it is relatively unusual for people to have more than one separate forename (although joined-up combinations like Giampaolo are not uncommon). So the space available for forenames on forms is usually fairly restricted. Members of the British royal family would certainly not be able to cram all their multiple forenames into an Italian form.

As in most other countries, we are almost always required to provide our name and date and place of birth before the conversation can get started. Simple, no?

Well, not always…

Name You would think this was the easiest part, but that’s not always the case. In Italy, for official use, the correct format is surname (family name) followed by forename(s) – once known as Christian names. Yes, it makes you feel like a prisoner or a defendant in court, but you are not John

Even if you are forced to cut off – even in the middle of a name – when the space has run out, ensure that you provide as much of your full name as you find room for: officials (and computers) will be tolerant if you run out of space, but will usually look askance at somebody

Wanted in Rome 7

claiming to be John Bernard Smith on one form (or identity document) but only John Smith on another, suspecting that these are two different people.

Women can run into another problem with names, however: while it is usual for a married woman to take on her husband’s surname in North America, the UK and many other countries, the Italian custom is for her to keep her maiden name. According to the civil code dating back to 1942, the husband’s surname is automatically added in second position after the wife’s maiden surname, but it does not normally appear on documents such as ID card, passport or driving licence. A later court sentence made this addition optional, with the bride being offered the choice, which has made for a confusing situation. When moving to Italy, women especially should ensure that their new identity documents all show the same surname, whichever version they have chosen.

– they’ll simply log him or her as born on 3 August.

Place of birth This is where things can become tricky, especially for foreigners (and if it’s of any comfort, also for Italians born in another country). The Italian format is to use the name of the comune or municipality of birth, followed by the two-letter code for the province, which used to be familiar to everybody from vehicle licence-plates, a format phased out in 1994 but still seen on older cars. This is quite similar to the US format of the city name followed by the abbreviated ID of the state.

More and more often, the exact town of birth of a foreigner (or foreign-born Italian) isn’t required: in the place for the comune now goes the country, and in the place of the province now goes a code for “abroad” – usually EE. The problem is that computers are programmed to check that your response is acceptable and not a nonsense reply like “Somewhere, USA”.

To do this, they hold a list of acceptable countries: this may be easy with a visible, drop-down list in which you find and click on the appropriate response, but it can be more frustrating with a list they don’t make visible, simply accepting or rejecting your response if it doesn’t fit with what they are programmed to recognise.

Date of birth This time, easy for most of us. But Americans can sometimes have problems with this because of their counter-intuitive convention of starting with the month, dropping back to the day, and then jumping two steps forward to the year. As in most other countries, Italy uses the more logical format of starting with the day, proceeding with the month and finishing with the year.

Computers will of course spot and reject the US format if we try to tell them we were born on December 31, the 12th day of the 31st month, but they won’t always notice the incorrect age of an enquirer born on 08-03 (or 8 March)

Wanted in Rome 8

Legal Affairs This poses particular problems for Brits: a surprising number of them are not clear on the differences between England, Britain, Great Britain and United Kingdom. Unfortunately (but more understandably), nor are many Italian computer programmers. This means you may have to experiment with various possibilities until you hit on one the computer is prepared to accept, all in Italian.

section of the ministry of finance), there is a possibility of finishing up with an invalid code, and managing the change to a valid one can turn into a nightmare, particularly if you have already been using the invalid one for some time.

Newborn babies in Italy obtain their tax code automatically from the comune of residence when their parents register the birth. Non-Italians obtain their code along with their permesso di soggiorno, or residence permit. The first step is to apply for the permit, for either employment or family reunion; once the application reaches the head of the queue and the incoming expat is summoned to the immigration office to receive the permit, he or she will also be given a provisional codice fiscale to use until the definitive one is sent through the post.

As good practice gradually spreads, more and more computers are being programmed to accept Regno Unito di Gran Bretagna ed Irlanda del Nord as the correct answer – and starting to input Regno Unito will usually nudge a computer to provide the remainder of this correct but unwieldy response.

What will happen after Brexit, of course, is anyone’s guess.

If you are outside Italy, it is also possible to request the issue of a tax code from an Italian consulate. And if for any reason you find yourself in Italy without a tax code, you can request it on the Agenzia delle Entrate website using form AA4/8, printed off and sent by registered mail to the Agenzia together with a photocopy of the main pages of your passport or other ID document.

Tax code Since 1973, Italy insists on everybody having a 16-character alpha-numeric codice fiscale from birth, a similar concept to the US social security number or the British national insurance number. The rules governing the makeup of the tax code are fairly straightforward, and can be found on Wikipedia; knowing them helps you memorise your own codice.

There are also websites which offer to calculate your tax code free for you if you provide your name and date and place of birth.

Anybody, Italian or not, who is entitled to join the national health service Servizio Sanitario Nazionale will be issued with a blue, credit card-sized plastic health card (tessera sanitaria). Since this also bears the codice fiscale, it is universally used for both purposes.

There is one simple piece of advice about these DIY tax codes: don’t do it. If they are not provided by, and registered with, the Agenzia delle Entrate (Inland Revenue

In case of doubt check with your consulate, a notaio (notary) or with you local comune offices.

Wanted in Rome 10

Legal affairs

RENTING RESIDENTIAL PROPERTIES IN ITALY Bonnie Rose-Zanni For many expats, looking for the perfect housing solution may be frustrating and disappointing unless they understand the laws and regulations. Here are some things to keep in mind when looking for a rental. In Italy, there are three types of leases: 1. A 4 year lease + 4 year extension at the same conditions; 2. An 18 month (max) lease; 3. A 3 year lease + 2 year extension at the same conditions.

one month. The landlord is not obliged to accept, but most do.

The landlord may not break the lease before the renewal period. And the landlord may only be allowed to renew the extension for specific reasons.

Therefore the tenant has little risk of being asked to leave, unless he or she is breaking the conditions described in the lease itself.

The tenant will be asked if the lease will be under the tenant’s name or a company name. This is because the landlord (locatore) will have to pay more taxes on the revenue if the lease is in a company name. The difference between individual and company on a 3+2 lease is often 30 per cent, making it difficult to find landlords willing to rent to a company.

Most landlords today opt for the 3+2 lease as it has reduced taxes on the rental income.

Residential rentals in Italy are regulated by law no. 431/98, and this must be written on the lease. The tenant (conduttore) has the right to break the lease by giving notice. Italian law stipulates a maximum of six months’ notice, but this should be negotiated. Currently it is common to agree on a three-month break clause. Diplomats can also ask for a diplomatic clause to be included in the lease specifying that they can request a reduced notice period, which is regulated by the specific embassy or organisation and also depends on the position held by the staff. It is usually two months but could also be as little as

If both parties are individuals the landlord can opt to apply the cedolare secca. This is a flat tax on the revenue generated from the rent and is applicable on all types of leases. Under the cedolare secca option, the lease is not subject to registration fees or government, and the monthly rent must stay the same for the duration of the lease.

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Legal affairs If, instead, one of the parties is a company and the landlord cannot opt for the cedolare secca, or if the landlord decides not to opt for it for fiscal reasons, there is a yearly registration fee to be paid. This is two per cent of the annual rent, to be divided equally between the landlord and the tenant.

There are also government stamps that must be applied only on the initial registration, which the tenant must pay for entirely. It is usually one €16 stamp for every lease registered. The landlord has the right to increase the rent each year according to the cost of living index (ISTAT). It is usually not more than two per cent maximum. In this case, if the tenant breaks the lease early, he or she will have to sustain a fee of €67 to the registrar’s office.

The landlord will take care of paying it, but will then seek reimbursment from the tenant. It is customary for the tenant to leave a two-month security deposit with the landlord on the signing of the lease, which will be returned at the end provided no damage has been done to the property and all bills have been paid. If the property is completely furnished, the landlord may ask for a three-month deposit.

The lease expressly states that the tenant is not to use the security deposit against the last few months of rent.

Such an arrangement can be made if no damage is present and all bills and rent have been paid, but only if the landlord agrees. Otherwise, a check is done at the end of the lease to see if there has been any damage. The law does not specify how quickly the landlord has to return the deposit, but if there is no damage it usually happens within a day or so.

When damage is involved, the landlord

has to get a quote for the repair and then shares it with the tenant. This is usually done within a week.

In Italy the tenant is responsible for ordinary maintenance and for the items/appliances in the property. This means that if, for instance, the tenant has plumbing issues because they have not been cleaning the filters in the taps (Rome’s water is high in calcium deposits), he or she will be responsible for the cost of the repair.

The tenant is also responsible for ordinary maintenance checks to the gas boilers every year. The landlord is responsible for any extraordinary maintenance. For instance, if the boiler breaks, the landlord has to replace it at his cost. Sometimes there is a fine line to understanding whose responsibility it is to fix household appliances. In the USA and Canada, as well as in some other countries, the landlord pays for any and all repairs. This is not the case in Italy.

If renting a semi-furnished flat, the tenant may be expected to buy electrical fixtures too. Most landlords who are used to dealing with expats will put electrical fixtures in each room, but be aware that this may not be the case for every property.

The tenant has to pay the condominium fee or homeowners fee. This is called le spese di condominio. The landlord should be able to provide the tenant with the previous year’s balance in order to verify the amount to be paid. The fee goes toward paying the condominium administrator, the cleaning and lighting of the common areas, the ordinary maintenance of the lift, the gardening fees and the porter’s salary. If there is

Wanted in Rome 27 15

Legal affairs the property during the negotiations period. If the agent or landlord is used to dealing with expats, they may not require a deposit but they will request the documentation.

no porter and no lift in the building, the amount should be minimal.

The utility contracts should be put in the tenant’s name. The gas and electricity meter readings are taken at the beginning and end of occupancy.

Some utility companies require the lease to be registered before they will put the contract into a tenant’s name.

The tenant can choose which internet/ telephone company to use. Fiber-optic connections are available in major Italian towns but not everywhere.

Once the offer is accepted, the tenant will be expected to send a bank transfer or leave a cheque from an Italian bank covering one month’s rent while the lease is being drafted. Before doing this it is always a good idea to ask for a copy of the visura catastale, which is a document showing ownership. This way you are assured that you are sending the money to the owner of the property. Any responsible agency will make sure the tenant has this document before asking for the deposit.

The deposit to hold the property will be used against the security deposit. At the signing of the lease the tenant will be expected to pay the rest of the security deposit and the first month’s rent. This is also when the tenant will be expected to pay the realtor their commission.

Before signing the lease the tenant should ask if the flat has been freshly painted and if the landlord expects it to be repainted before it is vacated. Not all landlords request this but they may. If the tenant asks the landlord to repaint the flat, the latter will definitely request a clause to be put in the lease stating that it has to be returned repainted at the tenant’s cost otherwise he will deduct the cost of repainting the property from the security deposit.

When a flat is chosen, it is customary for the tenant to be asked to send an email with a copy of their indentification and either a copy of their work contract or the last two pay slips. This is simply to verify that the tenant is able to afford the rent. Italians usually have to leave a caparra, which is a a deposit to hold

At the handover, it is common to fill out a check-in list called a verbale di consegna and it is wise to take photos of the property to document its condition.

The meter readings will be taken at this time too.

It is recommended to choose a real estate agency that is used to dealing with expats because the entire process will be much easier, run more smoothly and be hassle free.

Zanni Real Estate, Via F. Menzio 30, tel. 0660670581 - 3358418861 3474009753, www.immobiliare.it/ agenzie_immobiliari/Zanni_Roma.html.

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A day out

Civita di Bagnoregio: Lazio town that refuses to die Dying town

Each summer Italian and international animators, cartoonists, illustrators and street artists descend on the spectacular mediaeval hilltop town of Civita di Bagnoregio in the province of Viterbo, 110km north of Rome. Entitled La Città Incantata (The Enchanted City), the annual event is designed to “save” Civita from its impending demise.

Christened La città che muore by the Civita-born writer Bonaventura Tecchi, this “dying town” has long been condemned by authorities over fears that its collapse into the valley is not only probable but inevitable. Today the town’s community has dwindled to just ten permanent residents, although that number increases to around 100 during the summer months.

Perched on exceptionally unsound foundations, the hamlet has gradually been reduced due to centuries of earthquakes and landslides which have chipped away at its soft volcanic base. The original town centre remains intact, however, surging out of the desolate Calanchi valley whose chasms and chalky cliffs resemble a mini-Grand Canyon.

UNESCO appeal

In 2015 the Lazio region’s governor Zingaretti launched an online appeal, calling on UNESCO to recognise Civita as a World Heritage Site. Zingaretti stated that Civita is “now in extreme and urgent need of main-

Wanted in Rome 18

A day out tenance unless we wish to deprive ourselves forever of a sentinel of our cultural history, a piece of our heritage.” The campaign, which if successful would ensure a steady flow of conservation funding, has since registered more than 35,000 signatures, including those of former Italian president Giorgio Napolitano, film directors Bernardo Bertolucci and Giuseppe Tornatore, writer Andrea Camilleri, playwright Dario Fo, and composer Ennio Morricone. Zingaretti also saw that Lazio injected €1.2 million in shoring up the town’s shaky foundations to protect it from the erosion that “threatens its very survival.”

Etruscans, whose caves can still be visited. Although Stone Age artefacts have been discovered in the area, there are no human traces from the subsequent Bronze Age. Experts believe this is due to the frequent volcanic activity in the surrounding region around Monti Volsini – a minor mountain range in north Lazio – which led to the formation of the crater we know today as Lake Bolsena.

Between the fifth and eighth centuries, Civita was almost continually subjected to siege, changing hands numerous times. It was first occupied by the Goths, then the Byzantines, followed by the Lombards, before becoming part of the Papal States in 774. It is also the home of the Franciscan saint Bonaventure, considered one of the greatest philosophers of the Middle Ages, whose birthplace and monastery seem to have disappeared into thin air.

The concept of saving Civita, however, predates Zingaretti’s appeal by several centuries. Records show that the townspeople were taking precautions as far back as 1373 when the digging of caves was banned, along with grazing beneath the town’s cliffs, whose bedrock comprises a 60-m thick layer of tufa over an unstable base of clay and sand. Local church authorities saw the writing on the wall by 1699, transferring their diocesan base to Bagnoregio, followed by a mass evacuation of residents in 1819. More recently, the town in 1988 saw the birth of the Associazione Progetto Civita, an association of public and private institutions that has grown into a major cultural force, organising exhibitions in Italy as well as helping to promote the conservation of Civita itself.

Over the last decade, geologists have drilled horizontal steel rods or “anchors” deep into the valley floor, which in turn are attached to plates on the cliff face, as well as filling cracks and emptying recesses of water.

Civita today

Modern-day Civita is not easy to reach, particularly by public transport, but like all good things it is well worth the effort. To access the town visitors must cross a steep, 275m-long footbridge from neighbouring Bagnoregio, located 1km to the east. There is a €5 charge to cross the valley, payable on the Bagnoregio side, and it is not uncommon to see less courageous people being led across with their eyes closed. Built in 1965, the concrete structure replaced a temporary wooden version constructed after German troops blew up the existing masonry bridge in 1944.

Those in the tourism business wax lyrical about Civita, and it is easy to see why. It is beyond idyllic. The first glimpse of the town from the viewing point across the valley is jaw-dropping. Hydrangeas and geraniums

Etruscan heritage

The town is about 1,200 years old but its origins date back to the sixth century BC and the

Wanted in Rome 19

A day out tumble over its meticulously-kept stone footpaths; the lunchtime hum of conversation and clinking cutlery is offset by the cicada buzz rising from the valley below. Its beauty has caught the imagination of artists and filmmakers, notably Japan’s Hayao Miyazaki, who drew inspiration from Civita for his 1986 animated movie Laputa: Castle in the Sky, and Italy’s Alberto Sironi, who chose the hilltop town as the setting for his 2009 film Pinocchio, starring Bob Hoskins.

me!” while the people behind the Acqua di Civita range of perfumes and soap boast of international sales and requests to launch their products in London and Tehran.

Neither is Civita unique among northern Lazio “ghost towns” condemned for safety reasons – Calcata being the most obvious comparison.

Like Calcata, Civita has no cars, post office, supermarket or pharmacy. However, unlike Calcata, which is relatively down-at-heel, Civita is twee and manicured, offering picture-postcard material at every turn. It also has the slick stamp of marketing all over it.

The official travel guidebook uses effusive terms to describe Civita, “surrounded in a fog of unreality” as if “an island in our memory or a figment of our imagination.” However despite Civita being promoted as the “hidden pearl in the heart of Lazio”, the reality is that the town’s supposedly secret status is long gone. One senses that visiting the place a couple of decades ago may have been more of an adventure.

The town’s unpaved main square, Piazza S. Donato, until the 1960s catered for a large circular olive oil press, operated by donkeys. These days the animals still make an appearance in the piazza for the traditional donkey race, known as the tonna, a popular spectacle held in June and September each year. The piazza is also home to the S. Donato church, founded in the eighth century on a pre-existing Roman temple. Its walls are dotted with shrines and reliquaries, including a gold and silver arm containing bones of S. Bonaventura.

Civita has successfully branded itself, making much of its locally produced food and wine, and even has its own craft beer label.

A sign on the door of Trattoria Antica Forno states: “The Rick Steves readers are welco-

GETTING THERE

The best way to reach Bagnoregio from Rome is to make the roughly 1.5-hour journey by car, taking the Orvieto exit off the A1 motorway. Trains depart from Roma Termini to Orvieto whose station is connected to Bagnoregio by Cotral bus. It is also possible to reach Bagnoregio by Cotral bus from Viterbo Porta Fiorentina (train from Roma Ostiense) but the Orvieto option is less complicated. The coaches are not very regular so check times before travelling. Orvieto is 20km away from Bagnoregio, Viterbo 30km, but both bus trips take about an hour.

Wanted in Rome 20

A day out

Beaches near Rome For all you beach-lovers here is a selection of resorts within easy reach of Rome. Each one, ordered from north to south, offers either stabilimenti (private beaches with entrance fees and changing facilities and refreshments) or spiaggia libera (free beach with the option to rent a lounge chair and/or umbrella), and all have children’s facilities. We have indicated how to get there by public transport, as all these towns suffer from heavy traffic during the summer.

S. MARINELLA

The northern-most beach on our list offers a small strip of white coastline with the choice of setting up camp at either the stabilimenti or spiaggia libera. There are two trains per hour leaving from Termini station for S. Marinella station and the journey takes about one hour. Popular with wind-surfers, particulary in July for the annual surfing festival.

S. SEVERA

Located about 50 km north of Rome and less than 10km south of S. Marinella. Take one of the regular Civitavecchia trains from Rome and the beach is a ten-minute walk from the station. There are numerous stabilimenti, restaurants and spiaggia libera and it is also known for the Italia Surf Expo which takes place every July.

FREGENE

A former chic hotspot of the 1960s and 1970s, Fregene boasts long stretches of sand with both stabilimenti and spiaggia libera. Along the coast there is also a wide selection of family-oriented restaurants and less expensive tavole calde. Rome’s club scene tends to flock to Fregene and nearby Ostia (see below) in the summer months. Although Fregene isn’t the easiest place to reach by public transport, Cotral buses depart from Rome’s Valle Aurelia metro stop (line A) and the journey takes about one hour.

Wanted in Rome 35 23

A day out OSTIA/CANCELLI

Circeo. Stabilimenti abound but look for the spiaggia libera nearest the port: it definitely merits the mini-trek. Cotral buses leave for Circeo from the Laurentina metro station in Rome. Get off at the last stop and walk for ten minutes until you reach the beach.

Ostia and the Cancelli (gates) are along the coast nearest Rome. Ostia is loaded with often pricey and trendy stabilimenti, while the Cancelli offer free beaches equipped with restaurants and bathrooms.

Public transport takes less than an hour and you can use the same metro/bus tickets for public transport in Rome.

Take the 070 express bus from EUR, or the Roma-Lido train from Porta S. Paolo beside the Piramide metro station (line B). To reach the Cancelli get off at the last stop and take the 07 MARE bus until you reach the gates numbered 1, 2, 3 etc.

TERRACINA Located just 10 km south of Circeo. From Termini station take the hourly regional train for Naples and get off at Monte S. Biagio. From there, take the bus for about 20 minutes until you reach the beach.

Terracina has as many spiagge libere as stabilimenti and both are well-kept and clean, making it a popular destination for families.

ANZIO/NETTUNO

These beaches are only ten minutes apart and are easily reached from Rome. One train per hour leaves from Termini station, stopping first at Anzio and then at Nettuno.

The journey takes 60-70 minutes and the beaches are about a 10-minute walk from the respective train stations. Anzio has the Blue flag status given to beaches that meet the international quality standards for cleanliness both on the beach and in the water.

SPERLONGA The stabilimenti dominate this gorgeous getaway with picturesque views and Blue Flag status, leaving only narrow strips for the spiaggia libera. Take the regional train headed to Naples from Termini station and get off at Fondi-Sperlonga. Once there, take the Piazzoli bus for 20 minutes to Sperlonga, alternatively take a private taxi but be warned they are far more expensive than the €1.50 bus ticket.

SABAUDIA

Famous for its beauty and spaciousness, this stretch of beach is another Blue Flag area. Although predominantly spiaggia libera, there are a few stabilimenti to choose from. Cotral buses run from Rome’s Laurentina metro stop (line B) to Piazza Oberdan in Sabaudia. From here take the shuttle bus which runs up and down the local coastline. Sabaudia is also known for its Mussolini-era architecture.

GAETA This Blue Flag area has a quaint mediaeval town to explore and clean beaches. From Termini station take one of the frequent trains headed towards Naples, get off at Formia and take the bus for another 25 minutes until you reach Gaeta. For more information about transportation consult the Cotral and Trenitalia websites www. cotralspa.it, www.trenitalia.it.

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Wanted in Rome 24

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Curiosities

The Best Places to Visit and Must-See Attractions in Rome Rome’s heady mix of ancient ruins, museums, monuments and churches make the Eternal City one of the world’s most romantic and visually stunning capitals.

The city’s vast cultural and historic richness make it impossible to see everything, even after multiple visits.

We have outlined 29 of Rome’s “must see” sites, from famous to lesser-known landmarks, to help you experience this amazing city at its best.

Pietro di Cortona and Veronese. A highlight of the Galleria Colonna is its stately Great Hall, a Baroque jewel whose steps contain a cannon ball fired by the French Army from the Janiculum Hill in 1849 during the period of the Roman Republic. The palace can only be visited on Saturday mornings, from 09.00-13.15.

Aventine Hill Keyhole This popular peep-hole on the Aventine Hill contains a glorious surprise: a magical view of the dome of St Peter’s, framed by trees, allowing the viewer to see across three countries: the sovereign territory of the property’s owners - the Knights of Malta, then Italy, and in the distance the

Palazzo Colonna This sumptuous palace, which has been the home of the noble Colonna family for eight centuries, contains a stellar private art collection including works by Caracci,

Wanted in Rome 27

Curiosities Vatican. While exploring the Aventino, visit the nearby Orange Garden as well as the city’s Rose Garden, open April to June.

once Rome’s main harbour city during the Roman Republic (509 BC–27 BC). Exploring the well-preserved remains of this former seaport – including a Roman theatre – makes an enchanting day trip from Rome.

Coppedè

Little-known by Rome’s tourists, the Coppedè quarter is marked by an eclectic and original mixture of architectural styles and building materials, giving it the feel of walking through a fairytale. Highlights include the three fairy houses in Piazza Mincio, the spider building, and the Frog Fountain which gained fame after The Beatles jumped into it in 1965.

Centrale Montemartini

One of Rome’s quirkiest and least-visited museums, Centrale Montemartini is a former industrial power plant housing over 400 ancient marble sculptures, exhibited among giant engines and boilers. Located in the multi-cultural Ostiense district, the museum also hosts temporary exhibitions and can be visited Tues-Sun 09.00-19.00.

Palazzo Altemps

This Renaissance palace near Piazza Navona houses a highly important collection of classical Greek and Roman sculpture. Designed in the 15th century by Melozzo da Forlì, Palazzo Altemps is an architectural work of art in itself.In addition to an exquisite private chapel, the palace’s highlights include the Galatian Suicide, the remarkable Grande Ludovisi sarcophagus, and the Ludovisi Throne.

Spanish Steps

The Spanish Steps need little introduction and recently the 18th-century monument made international headlines after the city enforced a no-sitting policy. The base of this splendid Baroque staircase, which dates to 1725, is flanked by two cultural landmarks: the Keats-Shelley House where John Keats died in 1821; and Babingtons, the historic English tea-rooms founded in 1893.

View from Janiculum Hill

The Janiculum Hill offers a sweeping panorama over Trastevere and the entire city, stretching across to the Castelli Romani and the Apennines in the far distance. The view over Rome is particularly attractive as the sun sets. The hill is best known for the unmissable “Fontanone”, a monumental fountain built in 1612 to mark the end of the Acqua Paola aqueduct. However if you walk downhill a couple of minutes to the courtyard of S. Pietro in Montorio you will come across a hidden surprise: the Tempietto, a masterpiece of High Renaissance architecture designed by Bramante.

Ostia Antica

If you can’t make it down to Pompeii or Herculaneum then hop on a train from Piramide station and within half an hour you will be wandering through Ostia Antica, what was

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Curiosities Casina delle Civette

Campo de’ Fiori area

Tucked away in the grounds of Villa Torlonia is a remarkably unexpected building known as the little house of the owls.

This curious complex was designed originally, in 1840, as a ‘Swiss cabin’ for Prince Alessandro Torlonia. However it was later transformed into the style of a ‘mediaeval hamlet’, becoming a glorious homage to Art Nouveau.Expect to marvel at the building’s bespoke motifs of owls, swans and peacocks, while its nooks and crannies are a delight to explore, particularly for children.

While tourists swamp Campo de’ Fiori, many complain - somewhat ironically that the market is “too touristy”. Fear not, as nearby there are two little-visited gems worth checking out: Arco degli Acetari, an internal courtyard – trapped in a mediaeval past – where Rome’s vinegar makers once worked; and Passetto del Biscione, a hidden laneway decorated with frescoes of cherubs. According to tradition, in 1796 the tiny lane was the scene of a miracle when its mural of the Madonna allegedly moved her eyes.

Borromini’s optical illusion Located in an inner courtyard at Palazzo Spada (whose gallery houses works by Caravaggio, Titian and Rubens) is a stunning example of forced perspective by Baroque genius Francesco Borromini. Dating to 1632, this optical illusion is centred around a colonnade whose diminishing rows of columns and rising floor level trick the eye into thinking the corridor is 37 metres long instead of its actual nine-metre length. The effect is compounded by what appears to be a life-size statue but which is in fact only 60cm high.

Colosseum, Palatine Hill and Roman Forum A trip to Rome would certainly be incomplete without visiting the Colosseum, an ancient landmark of truly colossal proportions. The Colosseum’s integrated ticket also includes entry to the majestic Roman Forum and the vast Palatine Hill, both of which are located in the same archaeological area. If all this is not too much, try and reserve tickets for the nearby Domus Aurea, Emperor Nero’s golden palace, built after the great fire of Rome in 64 AD and today buried under the Oppian Hill opposite the Colosseum.

Pantheon Despite its ever-increasing crowds, a visit to the Pantheon is unmissable. Built by Emperor Hadrian between 119-128 AD, this former temple is best known for containing the world’s largest concrete dome suspended without reinforcement. Each year, on the feast of Pentecost, firemen drop thousands of rose petals through the oculus at the centre of the dome. The hugely popular ceremony sees hordes of

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Curiosities people queue up, hours in advance, to watch the petals flutter to the floor of the Pantheon, which is also the burial place of two Italian kings and the Renaissance master Raphael.

stoned Appia Antica, through the Parco dell’Appia Antica. Once ancient Rome’s most important military and economic artery, the road remains largely intact and makes for a fascinating walk (or bumpy cycle), stopping off to visit the Catacombs of S. Calisto and S. Sebastiano along the way.

Chiostro del Bramante

Commissioned around 1500, Bramante’s square cloister is an extraordinary example of High Renaissance architecture, forming part of the complex of the adjoining church of S. Maria della Pace. Visitors to the building – today an art museum housing important temporary exhibitions – can enjoy a coffee while sitting in the splendid upper gallery, whose tables are nestled between Corinthian columns.

Doria Pamphilj Palace

Rome’s best-known private gallery, the Doria Pamphilj collection contains works by masters such as Bernini, Caravaggio, Raphael, Titian and Velàzquez (whose fearsome portrait of the Pamphilj Pope, Innocent X, is a highlight). The Doria Pamphilj palace was built in the 17th century and is located on Via del Corso, Rome’s main thoroughfare.

Appia Antica

Caravaggio walking tour

Experience the Roman countryside by tracing the footsteps of Rome’s emperors and saints by walking along the flag-

Rome hosts about 25 Caravaggio masterpieces that can be viewed by the public:

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Curiosities several can be seen for free in churches, others as part of a visit to some of the city’s most important art collections in palaces and museums. With the exception of Galleria Borghese and Casino Boncompagni Ludovisi, the masterpieces can be admired without booking in advance.

centre but why not take the scenic route and ramble through beautiful Garbatella which celebrates its centenary in 2020.

Rome’s oldest pharmacy

The Spezieria di S. Maria della Scala is located in the Trastevere quarter and dates to the second half of the 16th century. The ancient Spezieria was originally established by friars who grew medicinal plants in their monastery garden. By the end of the 17th century it gained such a reputation that its customers included princes, cardinals and even the doctors of the popes, earning it the nickname “pharmacy of the popes.”

Visits are by appointment only.

Rome’s Non-Catholic Cemetery

Also known as the Protestant Graveyard, this cemetery in the shadow of the city’s pyramid is the final resting place of the English Romantic poets Keats and Shelley.

It also contains the grave of Antonio Gramsci, the founder of the Italian Communist Party, and modern-day writers and poets, from Gregory Corso to Andrea Camilleri.

The cemetery is one of Rome’s most romantic and enchanting places.

Capuchin Crypt

Visiting the crypt in the Capuchin Church of S. Maria della Concezione on Via Veneto is one of the eeriest things to do in Rome.

The vaults and walls of the six small rooms are decorated with the bones and skulls of some 3,700 monks who died between 1528 and 1870. With the death of each monk over the centuries, the dead were buried in the crypt, without coffins. The longest-buried monks were exhumed to make space for the newly deceased, with the reclaimed bones added to the decorative motifs on the walls.

The crypt can be visited daily 09.00-18.30.

Open-air street art museum

The Big City Life street art project was designed to regenerate the forgotten suburb of Tor Marancia by turning its social housing tower blocks in an open-air urban art museum. Completed in 2015, the street art scheme features 18 giant murals by Italian and international street artists. The area can be reached by the 160 bus from the city

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Curiosities Trevi Fountain at dawn

St Peter’s

Who hasn’t heard of the Trevi Fountain?

This late Baroque jewel was completed in 1762, based on designs by Nicola Salvi, and featuring the work of four sculptors, principally Pietro Bracci who created the central statue of Oceanus. In the mid-20th century the monument was popularised in the film La Dolce Vita which featured Anita Ekberg wading into the fountain’s waters. These days the Trevi Fountain is under strain from a constant stream of tourists, however a visit at dawn or late at night is unforgettable.

No visit to Rome is complete without briefly leaving Italy to light a candle in St Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City. Almost all of the great Renaissance architects and artists had a hand in its design and it can be visited for free. There is a papal audience every Wednesday morning while on Sundays at noon the pope imparts his blessing on crowds for the Angelus. Bear in mind that the Vatican Museums, which include the Sistine Chapel, are separate to St Peter’s. Check out or suggestions for tickets or dress code.

Galleria Sciarra

Villa Borghese Take some time away from the bustle of the city and head for Villa Borghese, an 85-hectare park which houses one of Rome’s greatest museums: Galleria Borghese. This treasure trove contains sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael and Correggio. The park is also home to the city’s zoo, a replica of Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre, and the world’s smallest cinema. It is possible to rent bicycles and take a rowing boat out on the park’s little lake.

After visiting the Trevi Fountain, make sure to seek out this hidden gem located around the corner. The glass-domed structure was built as a fashionable shopping centre in 1888, following Rome’s designation as capital of a united Italy in 1870. The building no longer functions in its original role but its magnificent Art Nouveau frescoes surrounding the interior courtyard can still be enjoyed. Galleria Sciarra is open as a public pedestrian thoroughfare, during office hours.

Michelangelo’s Moses The church of St Peter in Chains is a minor basilica hidden away in the Monti quarter, not far from the Colosseum. The church takes its name from an important relic: the chains said to have bound St Peter in Jerusalem and Rome, which can be viewed in a reliquary under the main altar. The church is also home to a magnificent marble statue of Moses, carved in 1515 by Michelangelo who viewed the statue as his most lifelike creation. The church can be reached via the steep Scalinata di Borgia near Cavour metro stop.

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Curiosities Piazza Navona

ical groups each 15 March. The so-called sacred area also contains ruins of the Theatre of Pompey and is home to a popular cat sanctuary. In 2019 the luxury jeweller Bulgari announced a major restoration project of the site.

Regarded by many as Rome’s most beautiful piazza, this Baroque gem has its roots in the first-century AD Stadium of Domitian, whose ruins can still be visited. Piazza Navona as we know it today dates to the 17th century and is dominated by Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers. Opposite is Borromini’s splendid Church of S. Agnes d’Agone which, according to legend, is built on the site of a brothel where the fourth-century Saint Agnes was stripped of her clothes and martyred.

Baths of Caracalla

This enormous complex of Roman public baths or thermae, was likely built between 212 and 216 AD, during the reigns of emperors Septimius Severus and Caracalla.

The baths remained in operation until the sixth century before falling into disuse and suffering major damage in the earthquake of 847. The site contains a maze of underground areas whose ruins can be visited today. During the summer the grounds hosts open-air opera, dance and concerts staged by Rome’s Opera House.

Largo Argentina Rome’s archaeological site at Largo di Torre Argentina is best known as being the scene of Julius Caesar’s assassination, an event which is re-enacted by histor-

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Curiosities

Must-see museums in Rome The city of Rome is an historical treasure trove. You could spend an entire lifetime here and still not manage to see everything it has to offer.

Vatican Museums

Housing Pope Julius II’s private collection, the sixteenth century Vatican Museums continue to attract more than 6 million visitors a year, primarily because they form the entrance to the Sistine Chapel. Inside, you’ll find the Pio-Clementino Museum, which holds the Vatican’s most-valued Greek works of art, then the Apartment of Pius V, containing Flemish tapestries from the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, a collection of medieval ceramics and another of medieval miniature mosaics.

This is followed by the Gallery of the Chandeliers, housing Roman replicas of Greek originals and enormous second century chandeliers. You’ll also discover art from global papal missions at the Ethnological

Paintings, sculptures, tapestries, frescoes, furnishings, jewellery and other artefacts across the ages make Rome one of the most important historical cities in the world. But, where to begin? If you’re on a whistle-stop tour, here’s a list of the best museums to see. Save the rest for next time – because you’ll definitely be back once you’ve fallen for this addictive city.

Make sure you book your visit, wear comfortable, respectable clothing – and try to avoid the queues!

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Curiosities Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Missionary Museum, maps painted in fresco on the walls of the Gallery of Maps and the Vatican’s first locomotive at the Historical Museum. History and art buffs will particularly relish the Pio-Christian Museum, the Egyptian Museum, Chiaramonti Museum, Borgia Apartment, Raphael Rooms and the Sala Della Biga.

For a Doctor Who-like journey back through time, spend a few hours at Palazzo Massimo. Built as a Jesuit boarding school in the late nineteenth century, the palace has four floors crammed with exhibits to amaze and fascinate. From the earliest coins to funerary jewels to mummified remains to rare bronzes, this museum has something for everyone. One of the main highlights is the triclinium of frescoes recovered from the villa of Livia and those of the Farnesina villa, making it feel more like a living museum, transported through space and time.

Galleria Borghese

The Borghese Gallery (Villa Borghese), in a beautiful mansion in the north of Rome, with the third largest park in Rome as its garden, boasts an impressive collection of art dating mainly from the fifteenth to eighteenth century. Avid Caravaggio collector and Bernini sponsor Cardinal Scipione Borghese (nephew of Pope Paul V), amassed an extensive portfolio of both artists’ works, which are housed here at the Borghese. You’ll also marvel at creations by Tiziano, Raphael, Rubens and Botticelli, as well as mosaics and sculptures from the antiquities as you wander through the mansion’s opulent rooms.

Palazzo Doria Pamphili

Found on busy shopping street Via del Corso, this seventeenth century palace was home to Rome’s most illustrious families, including the della Rovere, Aldobrandini and Pamphilj families. In this palazzo, which is one of the largest and most magnificent in Rome, you will find the exquisite Galleria Doria Pamphilj, a work of art itself due to its opulent splendour. An incredible collection of paintings and sculptures are housed here, so make sure you leave enough time to wander and absorb the atmosphere and character of the palace’s many luxurious rooms. The Pamphilj family still use the palazzo as a residence – the audio guide includes some interesting insights into what it’s like to live there, thanks to the input of Prince Jonathan.

Capitoline Museums

Found near the Forum, in Piazza del Campidoglio, the museums consist of two imposing buildings: the Palazzo dei Conservatori and the Palazzo Nuovo, linked by the Galleria Lapidaria tunnel. The museums were born when Pope Sixtus IV bequeathed bronze statues to the citizens of Rome in 1471, making these the oldest museums in the world. Amongst paintings and sculptures by the greatest artists, you’ll find a few unique treasures, such as the original sculpture of the Capitoline Wolf, the 1277 Ritratto di Carlo I d’Angiò di Cambio, the first sculpture of a living person, and the enormous equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius.

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Curiosities

10 facts about the Pantheon in Rome The Pantheon is located at Piazza della Rotonda in Rome’s historic centre.

Mon-Sat 09.00-19.30, Sun 09.00-18.00.

Last admissions are 15 minutes before closing time. During midweek public holidays, opening hours are 09.0013.00. Guided visits are not allowed during Masses, which take place on feast days at 10.30 and Sat at 17.00.

burned to the ground leaving little trace, one in 80 AD and the second in 110 AD. Historians estimate that the original building was constructed somewhere between 29-19 BC by Marcus Agrippa, a Roman architect and consul, close friend, son-in-law and right-hand man to Emperor Augustus.

2. The inscription The inscription at the entrance of the Pantheon reads, in Latin: “M.AGRIPPA.L.F.COS. TERTIUM.FECIT”. It translates roughly as “Marcus Agrippa, son of Lucius, having been consul three times, made it (or Marcus Agrippa constructed this while being consul for the third time)”. Although Em-

1. The Pantheon was built by Emperor Hadrian The Pantheon in the historic centre of Rome was built by Emperor Hadrian between 119-128 AD. Before that, two buildings had existed on the same site but both

Wanted in Rome 38

Curiosities 6. The Rose Petals The dome has a circular hole at its centre called an oculus. So yes, this also means that it rains inside, which is not a problem due to the well-hidden drainage holes in the floor.

What is most interesting about the open ceiling however is that on 21 April, on the celebration of Rome’s birthday, the midday sun shines through the oculus on to the Pantheon’s door. Also, to mark the annual Christian feast of Pentecost, a mediaeval ceremony revived in 1995 involves tens of thousands of rose petals being dropped through the oculus, symbolising the Holy Spirit’s descent to Earth. Over the centuries many of the features of Hadrian’s Pantheon were sacked by emperors and popes, beginning with the Byzantine emperor Constans II in 663 who ripped the gilt bronze tiles off the roof and took them to Syracuse in order to ship them to Constantinople. They never arrived because they were stolen by pirates on the way. In the 17th century Urban VIII took the gilt from the portico to make 80 cannons for Castel S. Angelo. However he added two campanili, sometimes attributed to Bernini, to the outside of the building. As they never fitted with the design of the original building they were finally taken down in the mid 1880s. In 1870 the new government of the united Italy took

peror Hadrian rebuilt the Pantheon long after Agrippa’s death, the inscription remains.

3. The columns Sixteen columns support the arcade above which stands the inscription in honour of Agrippa. The immense columns, which were transported from Egypt, are estimated to weigh 60 tons each.

4. What is the Pantheon?

What is the Pantheon? Originally, it is believed to have been a pagan temple dedicated to all Roman gods. The name pantheon has Greek roots and means all (pan) gods (theos).

However, some scholars disagree with this hypothesis, claiming that its name is not necessarily proof of its activity but of its size due to the sense of awe that the Pantheon still inspires on those who admire it from up close.

5. The Pantheon is a church In the year 608 AD, Emperor Phocas gave the Pantheon to Pope Boniface IV, who consecrated it as a church in honour of St Mary and the Martyrs. It is still officially a church but no longer a parish church. It can still be visited free of charge but the Italian culture ministry has been in negotiations with the city’s diocesan authorities in an attempt to introduce an entry fee beginning in early 2018.

Wanted in Rome 39

Curiosities tended to marry her but postponed the day repeatedly because he was having an affair with La Fornarina, immortalised in his portrait of her which now hangs in Palazzo Barberini. Numerous other painters – Annibale Caracci, Taddeo Zuccari, Baldassarre Peruzzi, Pierino del Vaga and Giovanni da Udine – are also buried there. The two first kings of Italy are enshrined inside the Pantheon, Vittorio Emanuele II and Umberto I along with his wife Margherita. over the maintenance of the buiding and it became a national shrine and memorial to the kings of the new kingdom.

9. The Dome

The Pantheon’s dome was the largest in the world for over 1300 years, until the title passed to Florence’s cathedral in 1436.

Today the world record is held by the National Stadium in Singapore however the Pantheon remains in 15th place.

7. The Oculus

Another curiosity about the Pantheon’s dimensions is that the height from the floor to the oculus, and the diameter of the dome are the same: 43.2 m. This means that a perfect sphere could fit inside the Pantheon, which is believed to be a symbolic reference to a sacred place, or quite literally, to the celestial sphere.

10. World Record

The Pantheon still retains a record however: it is the world’s largest concrete dome suspended without reinforcement. This is possibly due to a combination of factors, including the arches contained in the 6m-thick walls supporting the ceiling, the various densities of concrete used in the construction of the dome and its thickness which lessens gradually as it nears the centre. This is why the dome appears slightly flattened from the outside while seeming perfectly round from the inside.

8. Raphael is buried in the Pantheon

Raphael, who died in 1520, is buried in the Pantheon next to one of his lovers, Maria Bibbiena. Gossip has it that he always in-

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Curiosities

A guide to Rome’s most romantic spots Rome has its magnificent museums, its splendid churches, its rich history. It also has romance. Buckets of it. Here is where to find some of the city’s most romantic places.

Just below the Fontanone in Trastevere is the Orto Botanico, Rome’s botanic gardens. With more than 3,500 types of trees and shrubs, this hillside garden makes a wonderful escape from the bustle of the city.

Top of most people’s list is the Giardino degli Aranci, or Orange Garden, on the summit of the Aventine hill. It offers a sweeping panorama over the city, with stunning views of St Peter’s and the Vittoriano, and is particularly popular at sunset.

Across the road from the botanic gardens is Villa Farnesina, one of Rome’s true gems.

This Reniassance palace features breathtaking frescoes by Raphael whose 500th anniversary took place in 2020.

The Giancolo, or Janiculum hill, gives an even broader view of the city as well as the Castelli Romani and the Apennines in the far distance. The viewpoint has the majestic backdrop, and water-filled soundtrack, of the Fontanone.

Make for the river and you will find two of Rome’s most romantic bridges - the music-filled Ponte Sisto and, further downstream, the angel-filled Ponte S. Angelo.

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Curiosities

Heading into the centro storico there are the old favourites, the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps, both of which are at their most magical when illuminated by night.

secret quality to the street which featured in Roman Holiday and was once the home of Fellini.

Last but not least is the rather unlikely suggestion of a graveyard: the Non-Catholic Cemetery to be precise. With its otherworldly atmosphere and winding paths, this cemetery contains the graves of many notable cultural figures, including the great Romantic Poets themselves: Keats and Shelley.

Via Margutta, tucked away between Piazza di Spagna and Piazza del Popolo, is arguably the city’s most romantic street.

Draped in greenery and home to a multiude of galleries and art studios, there is a Wanted in Rome 42

Curiosities

The Aperitivo, an Italian tradition

The Italian Aperitivo is a cultural tradition that usually takes place between 18:00 and 20:00.

drinks to consider ordering when going to an Aperitivo?

The story of Aperitivo originates in Turin in 1786, when Italian distiller and inventor Antonio Benedetto Carpano develops a mixture of muscat wine, herbs and spices, creating the drink now known as Vermouth. Once the drink started selling in his shop, people from all social classes could enjoy a glass of Vermouth after work while socializing with friends.

It is an event that serves as an appetizer to dinner with the purpose of socializing with friends while drinking sunset-hued cocktails and snacking on a selection of cheeses and salami, bruschetta and sometimes fried foods. It is so embedded in the Italian lifestyle that bars all over the Italian peninsula host aperitivi with various drink and food options every day.

The concept of Aperitivo appears in the book Torino 1880 by Edmondo De Amicis, in which the notion “Vermouth Hour” is

How did this tradition become so popular in Italy and what are some of the best

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Curiosities used to describe a moment in which liquorists’ shops were crowded and people would socialize in groups after work.

it is no coincidence that it is also known as Milano Torino, which are the two cities where bitter and Vermouth were born.

Ingredients: 1/2 of Bitter and 1/2 of Vermouth.

Garibaldi: It is a cocktail suitable for any season of the year. It is thirst-quenching, tasty and light, in regard to the alcohol content. Ingredients: 3/10 of Campari, 7/10 of orange juice, some ice and a slice of orange.

Gin Tonic: This cocktail was born in India during the colonial era as British soldiers used to defend themselves from heat and tropical diseases by taking a quinine tonic. It was then made sweeter throughout the years as it became a drink usually consumed during Aperitivo mainly by British people. Ingredients: 1/3 of Gin and 2/3 of tonic water.

Moscow Mule: It is a long drink without too much alcohol content that recently became popular due to the presence of ginger, which adds a pungent flavour and presents beneficial properties. Ingredients: 45ml of Vodka, 120ml of Ginger Beer, 5ml of fresh lime juice and a slice of lime.

The accessibility of this event to all social classes allowed for this tradition to grow and extend to the rest of the country. This success incentivized the creation of a variety of drinks to enjoy during Aperitivo, raising the competition in the market with brands such as Ramazzotti, Campari, Martini, Cinzano, Gancia and Cocchi.

The birth of Aperol Spritz, which is considered to be one of the most famous drinks consumed during Aperitivo, dates back to 1919 when the Aperol house was founded in Padua.

The history of Aperitivo outlines the importance of a break from work in the Italian lifestyle, which serves as a way to find a time of day in which it is possible to catch up or socialize with friends or family.

Here is a list of some of the most famous drinks that characterize Aperitivo: Aperol Spritz: It is considered to be the most favourite drink by Italians, especially during the summer thanks to its vibrant colours as well as its moderate alcohol content. Ingredients: 1/3 of Aperol Campari, 1/3 Prosecco, 1/3 Soda. (It is usually served with a slice of orange).

Negroni: It was created in the 1920s when Count Camillo Negroni, tired of the usual Americano aperitivo, asked the bartender to add some gin. Ingredients: 3/8 of Gin, 3/8 of Red Bitter and 2/8 of Red Vermouth.

Americano (Milano Torino): In spite of the name, its ingredients are Italian, and

The variety of drinks is also enriched by the vast choice of snacks that often differ from each bar. Unfortunately, the current regulations imposed by the government with the purpose of stopping the diffusion of the Covid-19 virus have made it difficult for everyone to meet for the traditional Aperitivo.

However, it is during this time that people could start experimenting with different drinks and create cocktails at home in order to never miss out on Aperitivo.

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A day out

View of Ariccia with Palazzo Chigi and monumental bridge

ariccia: art city of the castelli

Wanted in Rome 25

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Curiosities

Best bars for a drink in Rome Freni e Frizioni If you’re looking for a lively cocktail bar with good aperitivo and a mix of nationalities and cultures, this is the place to go.

Located on the edge of Trastevere, Freni e Frizioni is a popular hangout for foreign students and locals. Like most bars in Rome, there tends to be a mix of age groups. The bar takes its name, which means ‘brakes and clutches’ from its former incarnation as a mechanic’s workshop.

Via del Politeama 4.

Libreria Caffè Bohemien In the fashionable Monti district, this book café/ bar is the place to be seen this summer if you’re into boho chic and more intelligent chit-chat than the average touristy bar in the centre. Velvet armchairs, eclectic music, friendly staff and a vintage vibe make this one of Rome’s coolest venues to start the night off in style or have a chilled couple of drinks after work.

Via degli Zingari 36.

Big Star You don’t usually get too many tourists here at this alternative bar in Trastevere, which is part of its appeal. Blondie, the Buzzcocks and the Sex Pistols reign supreme here and there’s a great selection of whiskeys and beers.

Via Goffredo Mameli 25.

Bar del Fico Piazza del Fico is always a bustling area, with tourists and locals mixing happily with groups of old men playing dominos under the fig tree from which the piazza gets its name. Cosmopolitan and international, Bar del Fico is a tourist magnet and perfect place to indulge in a favourite Italian pastime: people-watching.

Piazza del Fico 26.

Coffee Pot Another Trastevere haunt, this place has a completely different vibe to imbibe in – cool, calm and collected. Its slick interior matches its sophisticated charm, but its also a comfortable and friendly place – if you can blag a table in this popular bar.

Via del Politeama 12.

Voodoo Bar We highly recommend Voodoo Bar for a big night out with cocktails and dancing.

On our last visit this summer, this venue on Via delle Terme di Traiano made us feel like we were on a desert island, while the local tribesmen banged drums, danced with fire and frightened partygoers with a live snake performance. It’s also a great space to chill out on the loungers with a Mojito or two.

Via delle Terme di Traiano 4A.

Blackmarket Hall Monti’s Blackmarket Hall feels like stepping into a speakeasy in the 1920s. But take a peek behind the velvet curtain and you never know where the evening will lead.

Secret rooms, classic and original cocktails and live music await you here.

Via dè Ciancaleoni 31.

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INDEX

51.

53.

54.

54.

56.

56.

58.

62.

62.

63.

67.

68.

70.

72.

72.

73.

74.

78.

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Wanted in Rome 49

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Frutta

Chiostro del Bramante

Gagosian Gallery

Contemporary Cluster

Galleria Alessandra Bonomo

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Galleria Extraspazio

Ex Elettrofonica

Galleria della Tartaruga

Federica Schiavo Gallery

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Fondazione Giuliani per l’Arte Contemporanea

Galleria Il Segno

Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696 www.unosunove.com

Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960 www.pastificiocerere.com

Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537 www.ffmaam.it

Via S. Franceso di Sales 86/88, tel. 066892431 www.fondazionevolume.com

Via Margutta 54, tel. 063207956 www.valentinamoncada.com

Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it

Via Giovanni Pascoli 21, tel. 06 68210988 www.fruttagallery.com

Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498 www.gagosian.com

Via dei Barbieri 7 www.contemporarycluster.com

Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858 www.bonomogallery.com

Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928 www.dorothycircusgallery.com

Via S. Francesco di Sales 16/a, tel. 0668210655 www.extraspazio.it

Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163 www.exelettrofonica.com

Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956 www.galleriadellatartaruga.com

Piazza di Montevecchio 16, tel. 0645432028 www.federicaschiavo.com

Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142 www.fdaproject.com

Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387 www.galleriailsegno.com

Via Gustavo Bianchi 1, tel. 0657301091 www.fondazionegiuliani.org

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

Fondazione Memmo

Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598 www.fondazionememmo.it

Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980 www.lorcanoneill.com

Wanted in Rome 51

Galleria Mucciaccia

Nomas Foundation

Galleria PIOMONTI

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

Galleria Varsi

Pian De’ Giullari

Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801 www.galleriamucciaccia.com

Piazza Mattei 18, tel. 0668210744 www.piomonti.com

Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381 www.nomasfoundation.com

Via del Consolato 10 www.operativa-arte.com

Via di S. Salvatore in Campo 51, tel. 0668309410 www.galleriavarsi.it

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603 www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com

Plus Arte Puls

Via di Panico 55-59, tel. 0668801351 www.ilpontecontemporanea.com

Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357017095 www.plusartepuls.com

La Nuova Pesa

RvB ARTS

Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892 www.nuovapesa.it

Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518 www.rvbarts.com

Mac Maja Arte Contemporanea

Sala S. Rita

Via di Monserrato 30, tel. 0668804621 www.majartecontemporanea.com

Via Montanara 8, tel. 0667105568 www.salasantarita.culturaroma.it

Magazzino d’Arte Moderna

Sala Uno

Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951 www.magazzinoartemoderna.com

Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670008691 www.salauno.com

Monitor

Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A tel. 0639378024 www.monitoronline.org

Monserrato Arte ‘900

Studio Sales

di Norberto Ruggeri Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122 www.galleriasales.it

T293

Via di Monserrato 14, tel. 348/2833034

Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475 www.t293.it

Montoro 12- Artist Residence Via Alfonsine 21, tel. 392 9578974 www.m12gallery.com

Wanted in Rome 52

The Gallery Apart

Wunderkammern

Valentina Bonomo Roma

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863 www.thegalleryapart.it

Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662 www.wunderkammern.net

Via di Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766 www.galleriabonomo.com

Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261 www.z2ogalleria.it.

Associations American International Club of Rome

Commonwealth Club of Rome

tel. 0645447625 www.aicrome.org

www.commonwealthclubrome.org

International Women’s Club of Rome

American Women’s Association of Rome

tel. 0633267490 www.iwcofrome.it

tel. 064825268 www.awar.org

Irish Club of Rome

Association of British Expats in Italy

www.irishclubofrome.com

www.britishexpatsinitaly.org

Luncheon Club of Rome

Apicolf (Associazione professionale

tel. 3338466820

dei collaboratori familiari) www.api-colf.it

Navy League of the United States www.navyleague.org

Assindatcolf (Associazione nazionale dei Datori di lavoro domestico) www.assindatcolf.it

Patrons of the Arts in Vatican Museums

Italian- Malaysian Friendship Association tel. 3891162161 www.imfa.it

tel. 0669881814 www.vatican-patrons.org

Professional Women’s Association tel. 065827657 www.pwarome.org

Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com

United Nations Women’s Guild www.unwg.org

Circolo di cultura Mario Mieli tel. 065413985 www.mariomieli.net

Welcome Neighbor

tel. 3479313040 www.wnrome-homepage.blogspot.it Wanted in Rome 53

BOOKS Almost Corner Bookshop

Libreria Feltrinelli International

Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942

Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878 www.lafeltrinelli.it

Anglo American Bookshop

Libreria Quattro Fontane

Via della Vite 102, tel. 066795222 www.aab.it

Via Quintino Sella 39, tel. 064814484 www.libreriaquattrofontane.it

Bibliotheque Centre d’Etudes St Louis

Libreria Spagnola Sorgente

Largo Toniolo 20/22, tel. 066802637 ww.ifcsl.com

Via di Monte Brianzo 60, tel. 0668806950 www.libreriaspagnola.it

LIBRERIA GRIOT

Open Door Bookshop

Via di S. Cecilia 1/a, tel. 0658334116 www.libreriagriot.it

Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478 www.books-in-italy.com

Il Mare, Libreria Internazionale

Otherwise

Via del Vantaggio 19, tel. 063612155 www.ilmare.com

Via del Governo Vecchio 80, tel. 066879825 www.otherwisebookshop.com

La Librairie Francaise de Rome La Procure

St Patrick’s Lending Library

Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598 www.librairiefrancaiserome.com

Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0688818727 www.stpatricksamericanrome.org

CAR PARKS ES Park

Piazza Cavour underground car park

Via G. Giolitti 267 (Termini station), tel. 0644704053

Piazza Cavour, tel. 0668809610

Terminal Gianicolo

Parking Ludovisi

Via Urbano VIII 16, tel. 066840331

Via Ludovisi 60 (Via Veneto), tel. 064740632

Parking Villa Borghese - Saba Italia

Viale del Galoppatoio 33 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063225934 Wanted in Rome 54

Single Cycle Master Degree Program

EN

Medicine and Surgery

The new English-taught Master Degree Program is designed using a multidisciplinary approach to train students to become doctors practicing in a diverse biomedical-social culture with interdisciplinary and intercultural working skills.

In line with the guiding principles of Campus Bio-Medico University of Rome, the teaching is entirely patient-centred and community-centred. A deep knowledge of ethical issues is applied to the use of advanced medical technology in order to promote health-care through a humanistic approach.

Students are provided with strong foundations in scientific methodology, statistics and "evidence based medicine” imparted through means of Problem-Based Learning (PBL) a method that uses complex real-world problems as the vehicle to stimulate student learning of theoretical concepts and principles as opposed to direct presentation of facts and concepts.

The program is designed in such a way that its core contents anticipate and integrate the European specifications for global standards in medical education according to the World Federation on Medical Education in international basic standards and quality development of biomedical education (WFME Office, University of Copenhagen, 2007) and the Basic Medical Education WFME Global Standards for Quality Improvement - 2015 Revision (WFME Office Ferney-Voltaire, France Copenhagen, Denmark 2015).

orientamento@unicampus.it - www.unicampus.it

Tel: 06.22541.9056/8121/8715 - Via Álvaro del Portillo 21 - 00128 Roma

CINEMAS casa del cinema

Greenwich

Largo Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601 www.casadelcinema.it

via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825

Multisala Barberini

Cinema dei piccoli

Villa Borghese, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 068553485

cinema farnese

Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361

Nuovo Olimpia

Via in Lucina 16g, tel. 066861068

Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395

Nuovo Sacher

cinema intrastevere

Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116

Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230

Odeon

lux

Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361

Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361

Space Cinema Moderno

EURCINE

Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111

Via Liszt 32, tel. 0688801283

Space Cinema Parco de’ Medici

Giulio cesare

Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

Viale Giulio Cesare, 229, tel. 0688801283

CULTURAL CENTRES American ACcademy in Rome

British Council

Austrian Cultural Forum

British School at Rome

Belgian Academy

Casa di Goethe

Via Angelo Masina 5, tel. 0658461 www.aarome.org

Via di S. Sebastianello 16, tel. 06478141 www.britishcouncil.it

Viale Bruno Buozzi 113, tel. 063608371 www.austria.it

Via Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939 www.bsr.ac.uk

Via Omero 8, tel. 063201889 www.academiabelgica.it

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412 www.casadigoethe.it

Wanted in Rome 56

Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France

Italian Institute for Africa and the Orient

Largo Toniolo 20/22, tel. 066802629 www.saintlouisdefrance.it

(African section) Via Aldrovandi 16, tel. 063216712 www.isiao.it

Danish Academy

Italian Institute for Africa and the Orient

Via Omero 18, tel. 063265931 www.dkinst-rom.dk

(Oriental section) Via Merulana 248, tel. 064874273 www.isiao.it

Egyptian Academy

Via Omero 4, tel. 063201896 www.accademiaegitto.org

Italian Institute for Latin America Via Giovanni Paisiello 24, tel. 06684921 www.iila.org

Finnish Institute

Villa Lante, Passeggiata del Gianicolo 10, tel. 0668801674 www.irfrome.org

Japanese Cultural Institute Via Gramsci 74, tel. 063224754 www.jfroma.it

French Academy

Korean Cultural Centre

Viale Trinità dei Monti 1, tel. 0667611 www.villamedici.it

Via Nomentana 12, tel. 06441633201 www.italia.korean-culture.org

German Academy

Norwegian Institute

Largo di Villa Massimo 1/2, tel. 064425931 www.deutsche-kultu-international.de

Viale XXX Aprile 33, tel. 0658391007 www.hf.uio.no

German Historical Institute

Polish Academy of Science

Via Aurelia Antica 391, tel. 066604921 www.dhi-roma.it

Vicolo Doria 2, tel. 066792170 www.accademiapolacca.it

Goethe Institut

Polish Cultural Institute

Via Savoia 15, tel. 068440051 www.goethe.de

Via Vittoria Colonna 1, tel. 0636000723 www.istitutopolacco.it

Hungarian Academy

Romanian Academy

Via Giulia 1, tel. 066889671 www.magyarintezet.hn

Piazza Jose di S. Martin 1, tel. 063201594 www.accadromania.it

Istituto Cervantes

Royal Netherlands Institute

Via di Villa Albani 16, tel. 068551949 www.cervantes.es

Via Omero 10/12, tel. 063269621 www.knir.it

Wanted in Rome 57

Russian Institute of Culture and Language

Swedish Institute of Classical Studies

Spanish Academy

Swiss Institute

Via Farini 62, tel. 064870137 www.italia-russia.it

Piazza S. Pietro in Montorio 3, tel. 065818607 www.raer.it

Via Omero 14, tel. 063201596 www.isvroma.it

Via Ludovisi 48, tel. 064814234 www.istitutosvizzero.it

EDUCATION ambrit rome international school

deutsche schule rom

american overseas school of rome

greenwood garden school

american university of rome

institut saint dominique

Britannia international school of rome

John cabot university

castelli international school

kendale primary international school

Via F. Tajani 50, tel. 065595305/301 www.ambrit-rome.com

Via Aurelia Antica 397, tel. 066638776 www.dsrom.de

Via Cassia 811, tel. 06334381 www.aosr.org

Via Vito Sinisi 5, tel. 0633266703 www.greenwoodgardenschool.com

Via P. Roselli 4, tel. 0658330919 www.aur.edu

Via Igino Lega 5, tel. 0630310817 www.institutsaintdominique.it

Via Ernesto Parisi 11, tel. 0671354252 www.britanniainternationalschool.it

Via degli Scozzesi 13, Grottaferrata, tel. 0694315779 www.castelli-international.it

Via della Lungara 233, tel. 066819121 www.johncabot.edu

Via Gradoli 86, tel. 0633267608 kendaleprimaryschool@libero.it

la maisonette

castelli kindergarten

Via dei Laghi km 8,600, Marino, tel. 0693661311 www.castellikindergarten.com

Viale Monte Oppio 7, tel 064873185 Viale dell’ Umanesimo 72/74, tel. 065910339 www.lamaisonnette.net

core international school

liceo español cervantes

Via Crati 19, tel. 068411137 www.coreinternationalschool.it

Via di Porta s. Pancrazio 9/10, tel. 065882225 www.educacion.es

Wanted in Rome 58

IB WORLD SCHOOL

A rewarding international education. Ages 2 to 18.

Request information! +39 06 84482 651 romeinternationalschool.it

loyola university

st francis international school

lycée chateaubriand

St George’s British International School

marymount international school

st george’s british international school

rome international school

st John’s university

Via Massimi 114, tel. 0635344799 www.luc.edu/romecenter

Via delle Benedettine 50/b, tel. 0635511023 www.stfrancis-school.it

Via di Villa Patrizi 9, tel. 064402654 www.lycee-chateaubriand.eu

(Junior) Via di S. Maria Mediatrice 22G, tel.

063086001, www.stgeorge.school.it

Via di Villa Lauchli 180, tel. 063629101 www.marymountrome.org

(Senior) Via Cassia km 16, tel. 063086001 www.stgeorge.school.it

Via Guglielmo Pecori Giraldi, 137 tel. 0684482650/51 www.romeinternationalschool.it

Via Marcantonio Colonna 21, tel. 06393842 www.stjohns.edu/rome

st stephen’s school

scuola giapponese

Via Aventina 3, tel. 065750605 www.ststephens-rome.com

Via della Casetta Mattei 104, tel. 0665670219 www.isbi.com

temple university rome

Scuola svizzera

Lungotevere A. da Brescia 15, tel. 063202808 www.templerome.it

Via Marcello Malpighi 14, tel. 064402109 www.scuolasvizzeradiroma.it

the new school

southlands english school in rome

Via della Camilluccia 669, tel. 063294269 www.newschoolrome.com

Via Teleclide 40, tel. 065053932 www.southlands.it

GOLF castel gandolfo country club (18 holes)

Circolo del Golf Roma Acquasanta

Via S. Spirito 13, tel. 069312301 www.countryclubcastelgandolfo.it

(18 holes) Via Appia Nuova 716/a, tel. 067803407 www.golfroma.it

circolo del golf fioranello (18 holes)

Golf Club Arco di Costantino

Via della Falcognana 61, tel. 067138080 www.fioranellogolf.it

(18 + 9 holes) Via Flaminia km. 15,800, tel. 0633624440 www.golfarco.it

Wanted in Rome 61

Golf Club Nazionale (18 + 2 holes)

Olgiata Golf Club (18 + 9 holes)

Via Cassia km. 44,500, Località S. Martino, tel. 0761609308 www.golfnazionale.it

Largo Olgiata 15, tel. 0630889141 www.olgiatagolfclub.it

Parco di Roma Golf Club (18 holes)

Oasi Golf Club (18 + 2 holes)

Via dei due Ponti 110, tel. 0633653396 www.golfparcodiroma.it

Via Nettunense km. 26,400, Aprilia, tel. 0692746252 www.oasigolf.it

Sheraton golf Parco de Medici

(18 + 9 holes) Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 39, tel. 0665287345 www.sheraton.com/golfrome

HEALTH Campus Bio-Medico

ospedale pediatrico bambinO gesù

Via Álvaro del Portillo 200, tel. 06 225411 www.policlinicocampusbiomedico.it

Piazza S. Onofrio 4, tel. 0668591 (also viale S. Paolo 15) www.ospedalebambinogesu.it

Clinica Mater Dei

policlinico agostino gemelli

Via Antonio Bertoloni 34, tel. 06802201 www.materdei.it

Largo Agostino Gemelli 8, tel. 0630151 www.policlinicogemelli.it

Clinica Paideia

Via Vincenzo Tiberio 46, tel. 06330941 www.cdcpaideia.com

Poliambulatorio Nuovo Regina MargheritA

fatebenefratelli

policlinico umberto i

forlanini

s. andrea

ospedale oftalmico

s. camillo

Via E. Morosini 30, tel. 0677301

Piazza Fatebenefratelli 2, tel. 0668371 www.fatebenefratelli-isolatiberina.it

Viale del Policlinico 155, tel. 0649971 www.policlinicoumberto1.it

Circonvallazione Gianicolense, tel. 060658701 www.scamilloforlanini.rm.it

Piazzale degli Eroi 11, tel. 0668351

Via di Grottarossa 1035, tel. 0633771 www.ospedalesantandrea.it

Circ. Gianicolense 87, tel. 0658701 www.scamilloforlanini.rm.it

Wanted in Rome 62

s. eugenio

sandro pertini

s. giovanni addolorata

spallanzani

Piazzale dell’Umanesimo 10, tel. 0651001

Via Monti Tiburtini 385, tel. 06415931

Via dell’Amba Aradam 8, tel. 0651001

Via Portuense 292, tel. 06551701

s. spirito

Lungotevere in Sassia 1, tel. 0668351

MUSEUMS baths of diocletian

crypta balbi

capitoline museums

etruscan museum at villa giulia

castel s. angelo museum

galleria colonna

centrale montemartini art centre

galleria doria pamphilj

chiostro del bramante

galleria nazionale d’arte moderna (gnam)

Viale Enrico De Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700 www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel. 0639967700 www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it

Piazza del campidoglio, tel. 060608 en.museicapitolini.org

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571 www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111 www.castelsantangelo.com

Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350 www.galleriacolonna.it

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608 en.centralemontemartini.org

Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323 www.doriapamphilj.it

Via Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it

Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981 www.gnam.beniculturali.it

colosseum, palatine and roman forum

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo Palatine: Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30 Roman Forum: Largo Romolo e Remo 5/6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 tel. 0639967700 www.coopculture.it/colosseo

galleria spada

Piazza Capodiferro 13, tel. 066861158 www.galleriaborghese.it/spada/it

Keats-Shelley house

Piazza di spagna 26, tel. 066784235 www.keats-shelley-house.org

Wanted in Rome 63

MACRO

museo hendrik c. andersen

Via Nizza, tel. 060608 www.museomacro.it

Via Pasquale Stanislao Mancini 20, tel. 063219089 www.museoandersen.beniculturali.it

Mattatoio

museo napoleonico

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608 www.museomacro.it

Piazza di Ponte umberto 1, tel. 060608 www.museonapoleonico.it

museo dell’ara pacis

museo nazionale d’arte orientale

Lungotevere in augusta, tel. 060608 www.arapacis.it

Via Merulana 248, tel. 0646974832 www.museorientale.it

museo barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele ii 166, tel. 0668806848 www.museobarracco.it

museo nazionale delle arti del xxi secolo (maxxi)

museo borghese

Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0639967350 www.fondazionemaxxi.it

museo canonica

museo preistorico ed etnografico l. pigorini

Piazzale Scipione Borghese, tel. 06328101 www.galleriaborghese.it

Viale P. Canonica 2, tel. 060608 www.museocanonica.it

Piazza G. Marconi 14, tel. 06549521 www.pigorini.beniculturali.it

museo carlo bilotti aranciera di villa borghese

palazzo altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700 archeoroma.beniculturali.it

Viale Fiorello La Guardia, tel. 060608 www.museocarlobilotti.it

palazzo barberini

Via Barberini 13, tel. 064824184 www.barberinicorsini.org

museo della civilta’ romana Piazza G. Agnelli 10, tel. 060608 en.museociviltaromana.it

palazzo braschi

museo delle arti e tradizioni popolari

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608 en.museodiroma.it

museo dei fori imperiali and

palazzo corsini galleria nazionale d’arte antica

Piazza G. Marconi 10, tel. 060608 www.popolari.arti.beniculturali.it

Via della Lungara 10, tel. 0668802323 www.barberinicorsini.org

Trajan’s markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608 en.mercatiditraiano.it

palazzo delle esposizioni

Via Nazionale 194, tel. 0639967500 www.palazzoesposizioni.it Wanted in Rome 64

palazzo massimo alle terme

vatican museums

Via del Plebiscito 118, tel. 0632810

Piazza Aracoeli, tel. 066991718 www.museiincomuneroma.it palazzo venezia museum Via del Plebiscito 118, tel. 0632810 www.museopalazzovenezia.beniculturali.it

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700 www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it palazzo altemps Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700 archeoroma.beniculturali.it palazzo venezia museum

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860 www.museivaticani.va palazzo massimo alle terme Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700 www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it vittoriano

www.museopalazzovenezia.beniculturali.it palazzo barberini Via Barberini 13, tel. 064824184 www.barberinicorsini.org scuderie del quirinale

Via XXIV Maggio 16, tel. 0639967500

www.scuderiequirinale.it palazzo braschi

scuderie del quirinale

palazzo corsini galleria nazionale d’arte antica

vatican museums

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608 en.museodiroma.it

Via della Lungara 10, tel. 0668802323 www.barberinicorsini.org

palazzo delle esposizioni

Via Nazionale 194, tel. 0639967500 www.palazzoesposizioni.it

Via XXIV Maggio 16, tel. 0639967500 www.scuderiequirinale.it

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860 www.museivaticani.va

vittoriano

Piazza Aracoeli, tel. 066991718 www.museiincomuneroma.it

Wanted in Rome 59 65

MUSIC ORGANISATIONs accademia filarmonica romana

oratorio del gonfalone

accademia nazionale di s. cecilia

orchestra roma sinfonietta

amici della musica di roma

orchestra sinfonica di roma

auditorium parco della musica

roma tre orchestra

istituzione universitaria dei concerti

teatro dell’opera di roma

Via Flaminia 118, tel. 063201752 www.filarmonicaromana.org

Via del Gonfalone 32/a, tel. 066875952 www.oratoriogonfalone.com

Auditorium Parco della Musica Via P. de Coubertin 30, tel. 068082058 www.santacecilia.it

Sala Giacomo Puccini Lungotevere Thaon de Revel 1, tel. 063236104 www.romasinfonietta.com

Concerts at St Andrew’s Church of Rome Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 3336470115 www.amicimusicaroma.it

Auditorium Conciliazione Via della Conciliazione 4, tel. 800904560 www.orchestrasinfonicadiroma.it

Fondazione Musica per Roma Viale Pietro de Coubertin 30, tel. 0680241281 www.auditorium.com

Aula Magna Università La Sapienza, tel. 063610051 www.concertiiuc.it

Teatro Palladium Largo B. Romano 8, tel. 0645553050 www.operaroma.it

Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, tel. 0648160255, 064817003 www.operaroma.it

musica per roma

Auditorium Parco della Musica Viale P. de Coubertin, tel. 0680241281, 892982 www.auditorium.com

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PARKS AND GARDENS botanical gardens of rome

vatican gardens

gardens of ninfa, Fondazione Roffredo Caetani Onlus

villa ada

Largo Cristina di Svezia 24, tel. 0649917106

Viale Vaticano www.vatican.va

Via della Fortezza 04010, Sermoneta (LT) tel. 0773695404 www.fondazionecaetani.org

Via Salaria (Via Ponte Salario for Concerts)

villa borghese

Main entrances at Piazzale Flaminio and Porta Pinciana

giardini della landriana

Via Campo di Carne 51, Tor S. Lorenzo, Ardea, tel. 0691014140 www.giardinidellalandriana.it

villa celimontana

Piazza della Navicella

giardini la mortella

villa doria pamphilj

Via Francesco Calise 39, Forio d’Ischi (NA), tel. 081986220 www.lamortella.org

Main entrance at Porta S. Pancrazio

villa d’este (tivoli)

tel. 199766166 (call centre) www.villadestetivoli.info

roseto comunale

Via di Valle Murcia, tel. 065746810

villa gregoriana (tivoli)

s. liberato

tel. 063996770 www.villagregoriana.it

Via Settevene Palo 33, Bracciano, tel. 0699805460 www.sanliberato.it

la tacita country club

Vocabolo Palombara, Località Miniera, 02040 Roccantica, Rieti, tel. 076563626 www.latacita.it, info@latacita.it

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RELIGIOUS all saints’ anglican church

international christian fellowship

Via del Babuino 153/b, tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 & 10.00 www.allsaintsrome.org

Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266 Sunday service 11.00

Jewish community

anglican centre

www.anglicancentreinrome.org

Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061

beth hillel

lay centre at foyer unitas

bible baptist church

lutheran church (german)

christian science services

ponte s. angelo methodist church

(Jewish Progressive community), tel. 389 / 9691486 www.bethhillelroma.org

Via Castel di Leva 326, tel. 069311584 www.bbcroma.org

Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 www.laycentre.org

Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519 Sunday service 10.00

Via Stresa 41, tel. 0636014425

Piazza Ponte S. angelo, tel. 066868314 Sunday service 10.30 www.methodistchurchrome.com

church of all nations

Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464

pontifical irish college

Via dei Santi Quattro 1, 06772631 www.irishcollege.org

church of sweden (swedish)

Via A. Berolani 1/e, tel. 068080474 Sunday service 11.15 www.svenskakyrkan.se/rom

rome baptist church

footsteps inter-denominational christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621 - 333 / 2284093 North Rome, tel. 0630894371 akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it

Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652 Sunday service 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) www.methodistchurchrome.com

rome buddhist centre vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091

international central gospel church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695

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rome mosque (centro islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167 www.centroislamicoculturale.it

salvation army

Centro Sociale Virgilio Paglieri, Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351

st patrick’s church (roman catholic) Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0642903787 Sunday service 09.00, 10.30 www.stpatricksamericanrome.org

st paul’s within-the-walls (anglican episcopal)

salvation army

Centro Sociale Virgilio Paglieri Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351

Via nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) www.stpaulsrome.it

st andrew’s presbyterian church

s. silvestro church (roman catholic)

Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627 Sunday service 11.00 www.presbyterianchurchrome.org

Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 0667977121 Sunday service 10.00, 17.30 www.sansilvestroincapite.com

st francis xavier del caravita (roman catholic)

venerable english college (roman catholic)

Via del Caravita 7 www.caravita.org

S. isidoro church (Roman Catholic)

Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546 Sunday service 10.00 www.vecrome.org

Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359 Sunday service 10.00

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SOCIAL SERVICE associazione centro astalli (Jesuit refugee centre)

caritas hostel

Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 www.caritasroma.it

Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 066781246 www.centroastalli.it

caritas legal assistance

Via Labicana 3, tel. 067003951 www.caritasroma.it

caritas canteen

Via delle Sette Sale, tel. 0688815230 www.caritasroma.it

comunità di s. egidio

Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 www.santegidio.org

caritas foreigners support centre

Via Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 066861554 www.caritasroma.it

Joel nafuma refugee centre

St Paul’s Within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 www.jnrc.it

caritas health centre

Via Marsala 97, tel. 064463282 www.caritasroma.it

SUPPORT GROUPS alcoholics anonymous

narcotics anonymous

Via Napoli 58, tel. 064825714 www.aarome.info

tel. 068604788

archè - hiv + children and their families tel. 02603603 www.arche.it

overeaters anonymous

Via Napoli 58, tel. 065743772, www.overeatersanonymous.it

ryder italia

astra (anti-stalking risk assessment)

Support for victims of stalking, tel. 066535499

disabled information line

tel. 800271027 www.060608.it/en/accoglienza/servizi/disabili

mason perkins deafness fund

Support for cancer patients and their families Via Edoardo Jenner 70, tel. 065349622 www.ryderitalia.it

the samaritans onlus

Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed tel. 800860022

support for elderly victims of crime

Support for deaf and deaf-blind children, 0577532001 www.mpdfonlus.com

Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104

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THEATRES globe theatre

teatro sistina

quirinetta caffè concerto

Teatro Vascello

teatro argentina

teatro vittoria

Teatro Belli

english theatre in rome

Villa Borghese, tel. 0682059127 www.globetheatreroma.com

Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711 www.ilsistina.com

Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0669925616 www.quirinetta.com

Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel. 065898031 www.teatrovascello.it

Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000346 www.teatrodiroma.net

Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960 www.teatrovittoria.it

Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875 www.teatrobelli.it

arts in english

Via Merulana 244, tel. 0698264500 www.teatrobrancaccio.it

This Ostia-based company produces popular song and dance shows. tel. 338 970 2890 www.artsinenglish.jimdo.com

Teatro Ghione

English theatre of rome

teatro brancaccio

Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it

Rome’s busiest English theatre stages diverse productions near Piazza Navona. www.rometheatre.com

teatro india

miracle players

Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000314 www.teatrodiroma.net

Open-air comic adaptations of classics at the Roman Forum every summer. www.miracleplayers.org

teatro olimpico

rome’s comedy club

Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991 www.teatroolimpico.it

Enjoy stand-up comedy in English at Rome’s monthly comedy night. www.romescomedyclub.tumblr.com

teatro palladium roma 3

Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, tel. 0657067761 www.teatro-palladium.it

Teatro S. Genesio

Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 www.teatrosangenesio.it

the rome savoyards

Rome’s longest-running theatre company generally stages comedic productions. www.romesavoyards.it

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Rome Secrets

COLLECTORS Parcheggio Ludovisi There is an antique and craft collectors’ market every first Sunday of the month in the Ludovisi underground car park not far from Via Veneto and Villa Borghese. From October to April. Tel. 0636005345.

Villa Glori In the elegant Parioli area of the city there is a collectors’ market every second Sunday of the month. The stalls are close to the pony rides in

Villa Glori. September to June. Viale Pilsudsky, tel.

068541461.

Mercato monti Mercato Monti is a design and vintage market with hand-tailored clothes and jewellery at affordable prices. It is held on Saturdays and Sundays, at the conference room of the Hotel Palatino, Via Leonina 46/48. 10.00-20.00, from Sept to June.

For full information check www.mercatomonti. com or email: info@mercatomonti.com.

curiosities Best views in Rome There are as many good views of the city as there are hills of Rome. The famous ones are the view from the Pincio, from the Fontanone on the Gianicolo and from the top of St Peter’s dome.

But there are three that are less well-known. The first is from the Victor Emmanuel monument in Piazza Venezia, now reached by a lift that goes

right to the top. The second is from inside the Scuderie del Quirinale, one of Rome’s major art spaces, and the third is from the top of Palazzo Caffarelli on the Campidoglio. Take Via di Villa Caffarelli from Piazza del Campidoglio and half way up on the left there is a small door. Go inside and up the steep steps to the first floor (no lift).

You will find one of the best views ever, as well as a bar and a restaurant.

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Rome Secrets Cappuccini on Via Veneto

you can admire a magnificent colonnade with an enormous statue of Mars at the end. This is a clever trick of perspective by Borromini, because the gallery is really only about nine metres long and Mars is less than one metre high. Piazza Capo di Ferro 13.

In the basement of the Capuchin church in Via Veneto, there is an unusually artistic cemetery where the bones of 4,000 monks who died between 1600 and 1800 decorated the vaults and walls of four chapels in rather questionable taste. A touch of the macabre, but it is worth a visit during a holiday in Rome. Via Veneto 27.

Roma underground organises tailor-made guided tours to underground archaeological sites normally closed to the public. Tel. 0654221988, www. romasotterranea.it, attivita@romasotterranea.it.

Caravaggio Start the visit at the church of S. Luigi dei Francesi (Largo Toniolo close to the Pantheon), which hosts the three masterpieces of the St Matthew cycle by Caravaggio.

Then walk round the corner to the church of St Augustine (Piazza S. Agostino) where you will find the Madonna of the Pilgrims. In S. Maria del Popolo (Piazza del Popolo) you can admire two famous paintings depicting the Conversion of St Paul and the Crucifixion of St Peter in the Cerasi Chapel. These are just the masterpieces that you can see in the churches. There are other Caravaggio paintings in the Galleria Borghese, the Galleria Barberini and the Capitoline Museums.

Rome Segway Experience Tour A quicker and more original way of visiting the historic centre of Rome than on foot, from the Colosseum to the Imperial Forums, from the Vatican City to Piazza di Spagna, www. italysegwaytours.com/rometours.asp.

Tram/bus 3 If you want to travel as the Romans do and get a good glimpse of many of the city’s sites, all for a €1.50 tram ride, then jump on Tram 3. You can catch it just outside Trastevere station. It will take you to Porta S. Paolo and the Protestant cemetery, one of the most beautiful graveyards in the world, along the side of the Colosseum, past three basilicas – S. Giovanni, S. Croce in Gerusalemme and S. Lorenzo fuori le Mura – within walking distance of Rome’s La Sapienza University and into Parioli, one of the most fashionable areas in town. The ride ends at the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna (GNAM) and after a visit to this modern art collection you could then continue to Villa Giulia the world’s best museum of Etruscan civilisation. From here you can walk through Villa Borghese into the historic centre of the city. The only site you won’t see is St Peter’s but you can do that on Rome’s other famous (or infamous) bus, the 64. But hang on to your possessions as this is a favourite for pick-pockets.

Contemporary architecture Rome is known for its ancient, Renaissance, Baroque and 19th-century architecture. But don’t forget the contemporary masterpieces. Here is an impressive list of buildings completed within the last decade. The mosque by Paolo Portoghesi (Viale della Moschea), the Auditorium Parco della Musica by Renzo Piano (Viale Piero de Courbertin 30), the Ara Pacis (Piazza Augusto Imperatore) and the Chiesa di Dio Padre Misericordioso (Largo Terzo Millennium8-9, Tor Tre Testa) by Richard Meier, the national museum of art of the 21st century (MAXXI) by Zaha Hadid (Via Guido Reni 4), the Nuvola conference centre by Massimiliano Fuksas (EUR) and the city’s museum of contemporary art, (MACRO) by Odile Decq (Via Nizza 13B). Rome is a modern city too.

Palazzo Spada On the ground floor of the elegant Palazzo Spada

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Rome Secrets

FABULOUS FOOD Taverna Trilussa

Gelateria del Teatro

Real Roman cuisine. The speciality is that most dishes are served straight from the pan. Via del Politeama 23/25, tel. 065818918, 065818918.

has been so successful that it has moved from its small shop close to the theatre from which it takes its name into larger premises onto the corner of Via dei Coronari. As well as the large selection of ice creams there are also water ices and you can watch everything being made. Via di S. Simone 70 (Via dei Coronari, close to Piazza S. Salvatore in Lauro), tel. 0645474880.

Open Baladin Beer and more beer. This is a gastro pub for beer lovers with an extensive choice of Italian and foreign brands, good food and cool surroundings.

Via degli Specchi 5/6, tel. 066838989.

outlets - shopping malls and Sundays from 10.00 to 21.00. To reach Valmontone from Rome take the A1 motorway (Roma-Napoli) and after about 40 km, exit to Valmontone. Info tel. 069599491 website: www.fashiondistrict.it.

Castel Romano Open Monday to Thursday from 10.00 to 20.00 and Friday to Sunday from 10.00 to 21.00. Take Exit 26 on the Grande Raccordo Anulare (GRA), in the direction of Pomezia or Via Pontina and exit for Castel Romano. Outlet Castel Romano. Info tel. 065050050.

Porta di Roma This is a huge shopping mall and includes one of the two branches of Ikea in Rome. There is plenty of well-organised parking. Porta di Roma is easy to reach on the Grande Raccordo Anulare, exit at Bufalotta. Via Alberto Lionello 201, tel.

0687074216, www.galleriaportadiroma.it.

Valmontone This is the best known and therefore the most crowded of Rome’s shopping malls. Open Monday to Friday from 10.00 to 20.00. Saturdays

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Rome Secrets

street markets Porta Portese market is held every Sunday from 06.30 to 14.00 in the area between Porta Portese and with Romans and also attracts many foreigners streets of the market, hoping to pick up bargains.

Il Mercatino stores have a simple concept; you can sell anything you don’t use any more to someone else who might appreciate it. Ostiense, Via Manfredo Camperio 25, tel. 065748288: Gregorio VII, Via Ludovico Micara 32, tel.0639388832: Marconi, Via Antonio Roiti 46, tel.065530182: Porta Maggiore, Via Sebastiano Grandis 7, tel. 067024299: Eur, Piazza Beata Vergine del Carmelo, tel. 0697603111: AXA, Casal Palocco, Via Carneade 11, tel. 0683606157: Monteverde,

Viale dei Quattro Venti 77, tel. 065895258. There is also a good website, www.mercatinousato.com where you can browse the items for sale in the shops in your area.

Piazza di Fontanella Borghese This market specialises in antique prints. It is located in Piazza Fontanella Borghese, between Via del Corso, Piazza in Lucina and Lungotevere.

Open every day except Sunday from 09.00 to 19.00.

Via Sannio and last season’s fashions, all at knockdown prices. From Monday to Friday 08.00 to 13.00.

Saturdays from 08.00 to 18.00. Via Sannio (S. Giovanni).

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Activities for Children

ART Sala 1

imagination. Mon closed. Viale della Casina di

Paper, fabrics and photographs are just some of the materials provided by the artist Martina Hass to inspire children aged 4-8 from Oct-May. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10 (S. Giovanni), tel.

067008691, www.salauno.com.

Explora The Children’s Museum organises weekend workshops for children aged 3-12. On Sat at 16.00 it also holds a series of animated lectures for the smallest, as well as meetings with authors of children’s books. Booking required. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it.

Casina di Raffaello To coincide with exhibitions there are also creative workshops to give kids aged 3-10

BOOKS Biblioteca Centrale Ragazzi

Libreria Ponte Ponente

Animated lectures, readers’ workshops, artistic workshops and English classes for children up to 10. Via Mondovì 19-23 (S. Giovanni), tel.

0645426682, www.libreriaponteponente.it.

This library is for children of all ages. It includes a video library and almost 2,000 foreign-language books, as well as a multicultural section on the history and culture of people from around children on Fri and animated lectures for children aged 2-6 on Sat. Sun and Mon closed. Via S. Paolo alla Regola 15/18 (Campo de Fiori), tel.

0645460391, www.bibliotechediroma.it.

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Activities for Children

MUSIC Teatro Le Maschere A course, entitled Musicainfasce, for tots up to the age of 3 based on E. E. Gordon’s Music Learning Theory, which helps develop musical aptitude through the expressive use of bodies and instruments. A course for kids aged 3-5 develops their musicality through movement, songs and games. Via Aurelio Saliceti 1/3 (Trastevere), tel.

0658330817, www.teatrolemaschere.it.

Accademia Nazionale di S. Cecilia This prestigious music academy offers children a series of concerts and workshops. Consult the academy website for full details. Auditorium

Parco della Musica, Largo Luciano Berio 3 (Flaminio), tel. 068082058, www.santacecilia.it.

Video Ambiente Individual music classes for kids aged 6 and older.

Via Ostiense 193/d (Ostiense), tel. 0697997869.

Il Melograno Courses for kids aged 3-5 to develop their musical aptitude through the expressive use of their bodies and instruments, creative workshops for kids aged 1-4 and English for kids up to the age of 3. Via Saturnia 4/a (S. Giovanni), tel. 0670475606, www.melogranoroma.org.

THEATRE Teatro Verde Courses for kids aged 4-6, 7-10 and 11-14 on Mon-Fri. On Thurs there is an English workshop, entitled Polvere di Stars, for kids aged 5-9.

Circonvallazione Gianicolense 10 (Trastevere), tel.065882034. Theatrical workshops to stimulate children’s expressive and communicative skills: Arte Giocando on Weds for 7-11 year olds; Tutti in Scena Allegramente on Mon for 11-13 year

olds, Fri for 14-17 year olds; Let’s Play Together is a theatrical workshop in English on Sat for children aged 8-11 and Thurs for 11-13 year olds; iVamos a actuar! is a theatrical workshop in Spanish on Thurs for aged 11-17 year olds. OctMay with an end of year performance. Via Aurelio Saliceti 1/3 (Trastevere), tel. 0658330817, www. teatrolemaschere.it.

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Activities for Children

THE GREAT OUTDOORS Agricoltura Nuova Farm Parents and children can have fun on this farm and learn how to grow organic products. It also organises guided tours for schools and workshops for children. There are organic fruit and vegetables on sale at the farm’s store, as well as a picnic space. A cheap and healthy restaurant is open at lunchtime. Sun 08.30-18.00. Via Valle di Perna 315 (Trigoria, near exit 26 of the Grande Raccordo Anulare), tel. 0650828294, 065070453, www.agricolturanuova.it.

Bioparco Over 1,000 animals and special activities for children and their families at weekends. Kids can help feed the macaques, chimpanzees, hippopotami and farm animals, watch reptiles or ride through Villa Borghese on an electric train.

Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it.

Bowling Silvestri This sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, the first in Rome with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.

There are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/ Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri. com.

Casa del Parco This regional nature reserve organises numerous activities during weekends for children aged 4-10 to encourage respect for the environment and recycling. In the spring environmental educators teach kids how to grow vegetables, interact with

farm animals and recognise different plants.

There is also a biological cuisine course for kids aged 6-11; an English course for kids aged 3-6 on Tues; a theatrical workshop, entitled Teatro e Natura, for kids aged 4-10 on Thurs. Booking is essential. Via del Casaletto 400 (Monteverde/ Portuense/Gianicolense), tel.0645476909, www. valledeicasali.com.

Go-Kart Club Kartroma is a circuit with karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.com.

La Fattorietta On Sun this farm and cultural association on four hectares near St Peter’s basilica offers seasonal workshops and activities for children over 4, including helping with the harvest, learning how to grow vegetables, making bread, jam, fresh pasta and cheese and milking a goat. Vicolo del Gelsomino 68 (S. Pietro), tel. 338/2916918, www. lafattorietta.org.

Looney’s Entertainment Centre This mega playground for children aged 0-14 includes frames, trampolines, bouncy castles, etc. Via R. B. Bandinelli 130 (Ciampino), tel.

0679321977, www.newlooney.it.

Nella Vecchia Fattoria During the Christmas and Easter holidays this farm organises kids’ camps with Italian as well as English-speaking teams. Children are entertained with games, sports tournaments,

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Activities for Children creative workshops, animated lectures and treasure hunts. Day packages include breakfast, lunch and a snack. Via Casale della Crescenza 12 (Cassia/Due Ponti/Flaminia), tel. 0633220472, 334/6440802, www.scuoladueponti.it, www. asilodueponti.it.

This bistro, located in the heart of Villa Pamphilj, sells only organic products. It is possible to grab a bite in the cafeteria, organise a last-minute picnic in the park and rent a bike. Via Vitellia 102, tel. 06 5827540, www.vivibistrot.com.

Teatro di Pulcinella al Gianicolo

Zoo Marine

This famous open-air puppet theatre on the Gianicolo has seen many generations of children grow up. On Sat and Sun it stages several shows

by Pulcinella and Colombina. Entrance free. Show times depend on the weather. Viale del Gianicolo, tel. 065827767.

Vivibistrot

This amusement and aquatic park outside Rome other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via dei Romagnoli, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.com.

SPORTS Baby swimming

Movement

Il Melograno

Associazione Culturale Eppursimuove

This association holds courses for kids from 5 months to 3 years on Wed and Sat morning and afternoon. Via Saturnia 4/a (S. Giovanni), tel.

0670475606, www.melogranoroma.org.

This association organises a Baby Moves Group based on Infant Developmental Movement Education (IDME) for babies aged 0-6 to enhance learning potential through touch and natural movement. Piazza S. Giovanni di Dio 4a (Monteverde), tel. 3395037762, Angelica Costa.

Accademia del Nuoto This academy has half-hour sessions for babies to 3 and their parents. Tues, Wed, Fri and Sat. Via Poggio Ameno 61 (EUR/Laurentino), tel.

065940169, www.accademiadelnuoto.it.

Roma Uno This public swimming pool organises baby swimming classes for children aged 0-3 and their mothers. Sat. Largo Ascianghi 4 (Trastevere), tel.

0658332757.

Yoga Associazione Il Nido This maternity centre organises yoga classes for pregnant mothers and children 0-2. Classes focus on the mothers’ posture during the post-natal months, helping the body regain strength, tone and emotional balance. Tues.

Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 065758648, www.associazioneilnido.it.

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Activities for Children Dance

ACROBATICA

Insieme Per Fare

CIRCUS SCUOLA NAZIONALE DI CIRCO

This association organises courses in contemporary and modern dance, hip hop, break dance and classical ballet as well as karate and mini-basketball (minimum age 4).

Lessons take place twice a week for an hour. Via Pelagosa 3 (Montesacro), tel. 068185374, www. insiemeperfare.it

This circus school or-ganises courses for children aged 5-7, 7-11, 13-17 includ-ing circus, theatre, acrobatics and dance classes. At the end of the year there is a final per-formance.

Oct-May. Mon, Wed, Fri. Via G. Perlasca 63, tel.

3888194083.

CLIMBING

Associazione Il Fiume

Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side

This yoga centre organises movement courses for tots aged 0-2 and their parents (Mon), dance courses for kids aged 3-12 (Wed, Thurs), yoga classes for kids 6-9 (Tues). There is also day care for babies aged 0-3 (Mon-Fri). Via dei Dalmati 37

Basic and competitive courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, Thurs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473.

football u.s. boreale asd

Mini-volleyball

This foot-ball school, founded in 1946, organises yearly courses for children (minimum age 5) with professional teachers. Viale di Tor di Quinto 57b (Tor di Quinto), tel. 063325470, www. usboreale.it.

ASCR Dilettantistica Kronos Mini-volleyball with professional teachers.

Minimum age 5. Scuola Media Edoardo de Filippo. Via Sesto Miglio 78 (Cassia). Scuola Media Don Morosini. Via di Val Favara 31 (Torre Vecchia), tel.0664202251, 338/ 9011241, www.askronos.it.

martial arts otzuka club

Rid-ing courses for kids aged 4 and older. TuesSun. Via Valle di Perna 315 (Spinaceto), tel.

3892541852, www.circoloip-picolaperna.it.

This martial arts school organises various courses for children, including Junior Bushido for kids aged 3-9 (Tues, Thurs), Kudo for 9-15 year olds (Wed, Sat), Hwa Rang Do for 9-15 year olds (Mon, Fri). Via Baldo degli Ubaldi 147 b, tel. 3476548657, www.otzu-kaclub.com.

TENNIS

sub acqua diving

Circolo Tennis Oasi di Pace

salaria sport village

HORSE RIDING Circolo Ippico La Perna

Underwater diving courses for children aged 8-10 with twice-weekly two-hour sessions in

In the heart of the Appia An-tica park. 18 tennis courts as well as football pitches, a gym, a swimming pool with baby parking, etc. There are separate mini-tennis courses for children aged 5 years and over (Thurs and Sat). Private lessons with professional teachers are also available. Via degli Eugenii 2 (Appia Antica), tel. 067184550, www.oasidipaceroma.it.

Argentario peninsula. The courses last six weeks and children receive an international diving permit at the end. Via S. Gaggio 5 (Settebagni), tel.

0688561601, www.salariadiving.it.

Gabrielle Bolzoni

Wanted in Rome 82

Areas

Areas AVENTINO - S. SABA FLAMINIO MONTEVERDE PANTHEON CAMPO MARZIO PRATI TESTACCIO

84 96 109 120 132 144

90

Campo de’ Fiori

102

Ghetto

114

Monti

126

Popolo - Spagna

138

St Peter’s

150

Trastevere

Wanted in Rome 85 83

Areas

AVENTINO - S. SABA A predominantly residential area, the Aventino is ideal for those looking for a quiet spot with plenty of greenery within a stone’s throw of the historic centre. However, the Aventino has few shops; it is therefore essential to have a car even though it is difficult to find parking. Cross over Viale Aventino and you reach S. Saba, a slightly busier version of the Aventino with better shopping facilities. It is a perfect place to live for those working

Areas

at the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, it is close to the sports facilities near the Baths of Caracalla and there is also an international school, St Stephen’s, an American-run secondary school that offers the International Baccalaureate. There are also several embassies and religious houses in this area. The Palatine and the Colosseum are within easy walking distance and it is not far from Testaccio with its markets and shops.

Wanted in Rome 87 85

Aventino - S. Saba

Parco Savello, better known as the Giardino degli Aranci, was once a monastic orchard containing an orange grove within its enclosed walls. The orange trees are still growing in this romantic park which provides stunning views of the city across the river Tiber below.

The real estate investment group Sorgente is to fund the restoration of the park and its adjoining Clivo di Rocco Savello walkway, linking to the Lungotevere.

Via di S. Sabina

On the eastern slope of the Aventine hill lies the municipal rose garden which is home to 1,200 varieties of rose. The gardens are open from mid-April to mid-June but it is possible to view the roses via an avenue dividing the gardens. This is the site of the annual international rose competition which takes place each May. Via di Valle Murcia 6

Wanted in Rome 86

Rose garden

GIARDINO DEGLI ARANCI

1

2

Aventino - S. Saba

The church of S. Maria del Priorato is owned by the Knights of Malta, an ancient Catholic military order, whose property has extraterritorial status. Peeping through the keyhole of the church’s door provides a magical view of St Peter’s dome, framed by trees, allowing the viewer to see across three states: the sovereign territory owned by the knights, then Italy and in the distance the Holy See. Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta

The National Institute of Roman Studies was founded in 1925 for study into all aspects of Rome, its history, archaeology, art, literature and science. The institute also organises national and interna-tional conferences, study days, visits to monuments, art collections and excavations in Rome, around Italy and abroad.

Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta 2

Wanted in Rome 89 87

ISTITUTO NAZIONALE DI STUDI ROMANI

s. maria del priorato

3

4

Aventino - S. Saba

APULEIUS

5

Apuleius is on the Aventino surrounded by the magnificence of ancient Rome in a charming and characteristic setting. In the dining room you will find ancient capitals, marble columns and the original wall of the temple of Diana dating from the 6th century BC. Via del Tempio di Diana Tel. tel 0657289229 www.apuleius.it

CALLARELLO A typical trattoria with traditional Italian cuisine. The surroundings are simple, cosy and welcoming but with an eye to detail. The extensive menu offers the traditional meat and fish (“di terra” and “di mare”) dishes of Italian cuisine.

6

Via Salvator Rosa 8 Tel. 065747575

THE CORNER

7

A boutique hotel, restaurant and lounge garden. Its elegant restaurant has an exclusive atmosphere but is quite expensive, serving a mixture of antipasti, pasta and fish dishes.

Viale Aventino 123 Tel. 0645597350 www.thecornerrome.com

CAFE DU PARC Close to the Pyramid at Porta S. Paolo there is a park with a retro-looking cafè where you can sit and have an ice cream, a “cremolato” or a drink.

The British romantic poets Keats and Shelley are buried in the Protestant cemetery nearby.

Piazza di Porta S. Paolo

8

Aventino - S. Saba

hotel s. anselmo

9

Decorations and elegant furnishings blend with a comfortable family atmosphere to create the feeling of being in a private house where you immediately feel at ease.

Piazza di S. Anselmo 2 Tel. 06570057 www.aventinohotels.com

emmepiù EmmePiù is a supermarket for everyday needs, divided into two neighbouring stores: one stocking food, the other cleaning and household items. Both shops carry an extensive range of products.

10

Viale Aventino 50 Tel. 065754315

c.s. aventino

11

With some 40 years of experience, C.S. Aventino has high professional and international standards. There is a 25-metre swimming pool as well as a sauna and a gym.

Via Marmorata 14 Tel. 065740637 www.csaventino.it

farmacia cestia This pharmacy sells homeopathic, veterinary and dermo-cosmetic items as well as dietary products for coeliacs to order. Extremely helpful staff. MonFri 08.30-19.30, Sat 08.30-13.00.

Viale della Piramide 19 Tel. 065743895 Wanted in Rome 91 89

12

Areas

CAMPO DE’ FIORI This area is in the heart of the historic centre, sandwiched between Piazza Navona and the meandering narrow streets that lead to the Tiber. There are probably more craft workshops and restorers’ studios, as well as family run neighborhood stores, than in any other part of the city. Campo de’ Fiori is the hub of the area, presided over by the statue of the brooding Giordano Bruno who was burnt at the stake in 1600 for heresy. In the morning it is home to the city’s most colourful, if most expensive, street market. This was once the place for

Areas

the best food at the best prices in the centre but now it is mainly a tourist attraction. At night Campo de’ Fiori is a very active and rowdy nightspot with its square-side cafés, pubs and bars. If you want somewhere quiet, find an apartment away from both Campo de’ Fiori and Piazza Farnese, home of the majestic French embassy. There is limited street parking for residents but public transport is relatively good and the clothes shops along Via dei Giubbonari are a real bonus.

Wanted in Rome 93 91

Campo de’ Fiori

Giordano Bruno was a 16th century friar, philosopher, mathematician, poet and astrologer. The Roman Inquisition declared his cosmological findings heretical and he was burned at the stake in Campo de’ Fiori in 1600.

Today a bronze, hooded statue of him acts as a popular meeting place in the centre of the square.

In recent years the Vatican has softened its stance against Bruno, falling just short of a full pardon.

Campo de’ Fiori

This historic bridge spans the Tiber, connecting Via dei Pettinari to Piazza Trilussa in Trastevere.

The bridge was formerly the Pons Aurelius but was destroyed during the Middle Ages. Pope Sixtus rebuilt it in its current form in the 15th century, giving his name to the bridge which is now just for pedestrians. In 2015 Ponte Sisto featured in the 24th James Bond movie Spectre.

ponte sisto

giordano bruno statue

1

Between Via dei Pettinari and Piazza Trilussa

2

Campo de’ Fiori

palazzo farnese

3 Currently the home of the French embassy to Italy, Palazzo Farnese is one of the most important high Renaissance palaces in Rome.

Artists such as Giacomo della Porta, Michelangelo, da Sangallo and Vignola all left their mark on the majestic palace whose Carracci gallery has recently been restored.

Piazza Farnese

Piazza della Cancelleria

Wanted in Rome 95 93

palazzo della cancelleria

This building, which is a World Heritage Site and is attributed to Bramante, was once the papal chancery and still belongs to the Holy See. It now houses the Romana Rota, the highest ecclesiastical appeal tribunal of the Roman Catholic church. A permanent exhibition of replicas of many of Leonardo Da Vinci’s machines and designs is open to the public.

4

Campo de’ Fiori

da francesco

5

This used to be a good cheap restaurant frequented mainly by locals, but over the years it has become more expensive and very crowded. It now concentrates mainly on pizzas but you can still get good meal if you wait a bit. In the summer there are tables outside.

Piazza del Fico 29 Tel. 066864009

PIERLUIGI Character, vivacity, courtesy and quality make this restaurant a point of reference for Roman and international diners alike.

Known for its vast choice of fish dishes, as well as pasta and meat, Pierluigi is far from cheap but you won’t regret the experience. Booking is necessary.

6

Piazza dé Ricci 144 Tel. 066861302 – 066868717

EX CIRCUS

7

Located near Piazza Navona, Ex Circus is a small and eclectic bar. Tea-room, cocktail bar, wine bar and exhibition space, Ex Circus offers wine, cocktails and desserts, as well as themed nights and cultural events.

Via della Vetrina 15 Tel. 0697619258

drunken ship The Drunken Ship is an American owned and managed bar with an international clientele. It is located in Campo de’ Fiori, known for its colourful food market and nightlife. The Drunken Ship is open seven days a week from 15.00-02.00.

Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 21 tel. 0668300535 www.drunkenship.com

8

Campo de’ Fiori

D.O.M. hotel

9

D.O.M. is a 5-star luxury hotel set in a 17th-century palace with 24 rooms including a suite with large private terrace. The ambience is enriched by numerous works of art and carefully chosen elements of design.

Via Giulia 131 Tel. 066832144 or 3311221427 www.domhotelroma.com

Punto Sma This supermarket carries a vast selection of exclusive brands ensuring the best quality at the lowest price.

Meat and fresh fruit, as well as a variety of detergents and products for animals are also stocked.

10

Via Monte della Farina 51 Tel. 0668134070

Farnese fitness

11

Tucked behind Campo de’ Fiori, Farnese Fitness caters to locals and tourists.

Perfect if you want to keep in shape while on vacation with a temporary membership or if you are looking for a long term membership.

Vicolo delle Grotte 35 Tel. 066876931

FARNESE This pharmacy sells homeopathic products, cosmetics, veterinary medicines and dietary aids. Mon-Fri 08.30-19.30.

Piazza Farnese 42 Tel. 0668806684 Wanted in Rome 97 95

12

Areas Areas

FLAMINIO FLAMINIO This is a pleasant district close to the centro storico that has now become the city’s centre Thisofisculture. a pleasant close for to the that has now become the city’s It is district the location the centro Renzo storico Piano designed Auditorium Parco della centre Musica of culture.

It is the the Renzo Auditorium Musica and MAXXI, the location national for museum of artPiano of thedesigned XXI century

by Zaha Parco Hadid.della The national andmuseum MAXXI, of themodern national of the art Teatro of theOlimpico XXI century by as Zaha Hadid. national artmuseum is also here, as well many of theThe city’s foreign museum of academies modern artand is also here,main the Teatro well to as Piazza many of the city’s foreign cultural Rome’s sportsOlimpico stadium.as Close del Popolo there is cultural academies Rome’s sportsbuildings, stadium. but Close to Piazza del Popolothere thereare is an attractive areaand of three to main four-storey around the Auditorium an attractive area of three to four-storey buildings, but around the Auditorium there are

Areas Areas

tall, rather anonymous mid-20th century apartment blocks, as well as the 1960s Olympic tall, rather mid-20th apartment as well asstreets the 1960s Olympic village nowanonymous a fashionable place tocentury live. There are parksblocks, and tree-lined and public village now a fashionable place to live.

There are andbut tree-lined and public transport is excellent.

It’s not the best shopping areaparks in town, you will streets find everything transport It’s not the best shopping Street area inparking town, but will and findthere everything you need, is asexcellent. well as many good local restaurants. hereyou is easy is a you as well ascar many restaurants. Street parking here is easy and there is a largeneed, underground parkgood at thelocal Auditorium. large underground car park at the Auditorium.

Wanted in Rome Wanted 99 97 in Rome

Flaminio

MAXXI

1 The MAXXI – Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI secolo is a national museum dedicated to the 21st-century arts. It offers cuttingedge exhibitions by leading Italian and international artists as well as a programme of events throughout the year. This multidisciplinary space was designed by IraqiBritish architect Zaha Hadid out of an old military barracks and was opened in 2010. It is committed to experimentation and innovation in the arts and architecture.

Via Guido Reni 4

Viale Pietro De Coubertin 30

AUDITORIUM PARCO DELLA MUSICA

The city’s main auditorium is a large multi-use complex dedicated primarily to music but also art, cinema, dance, festivals and literature. It was designed by noted Italian architect Renzo Piano and opened in 2002. Its halls host classical concerts throughout the year while in the summer there are open-air gigs in its Cavea arena. Its gardens are used for horticulture and food festivals. The auditorium is also the base of the annual Rome Film Fest.

2

Flaminio

VILLAGGIO OLIMPICO

3 The Olympic Village was built specially for the 1960 Summer Olympic Games in Rome and is situated on the other side of the Tiber from the Foro Italico sports complex. Two-storey buildings on stilts were constructed on the site which then languished for several decades but has now become fashionable. The Flaminio stadium is nearby and traces of the 1960 Olympics are evident throughout the district.

Just off Lungotevere dell’ Acetosa

Between Piazzale Consalvi and Piazza Ponte Milvio Wanted in Rome 101 99

PONTE MILVIO

This ancient bridge across the Tiber, connecting Piazzale Cardinal Consalvi to the square of Ponte Milvio, dates back the Roman empire. The original Ponte Milvio was built in 206 BC but was demol-ished to make way for a new bridge in 115 AD. Much of the current structure dates from that time. It is best-known as the scene of the battle between Roman emperors Constantine and Maxentius in the year 312.

The bridge was modified over the centuries, most recently after damage caused by Garibaldi’s troops in 1849.

4

Flaminio

TIEPOLO

5

A small restaurant with salads, excellent dishes of the day, delicious desserts and a good wine list. A friendly and simple environment provides an ideal setting for a romantic dinner by candlelight.

Via G. B. Tiepolo 3 Tel. 063227449

LO SGOBBONE There is one dish above all that makes a visit to this small restaurant on Lungotevere Flaminio a must: the tagliolini al tartufo, with a mountain of truffles. Excellent Roman-style home cooking in general.

6

Via Podesti 10 Tel. 063232994

BAR RED

7

This is an excellent choice if you have just been to the Auditorium and you are bound to rub shoulders with famous people here. Bar Red prides itself on its elegant design, its cuisine and wine list. It also hosts cultural events.

Viale Petro de Coubertin Tel. 0680691630

TREE BAR The Tree Bar is a welcoming bar, home to a pleasant clientele. Located in the gardens just off Viale Tiziano, near the Flaminio Stadium, it is built entirely in wood and eco-friendly materials.

Via Flaminia 226 Tel. 0632652754

8

Flaminio

B&B A VILLA RICCIO

9

A cosy bed and breakfast close to Piazza del Popolo, Villa Borghese, the Spanish Steps and the Ara Pacis.

B&B a Villa Riccio is comfortable and inexpensive and is located in a quiet, leafy area.

Viale del Vignola 75 Tel. 0636000426

VF SUPERMERCATI from pasta, meat, vegetables and fruit, to household products such as brooms and detergents. The prices are less expensive than other supermarkets in the centre of Rome.

10

Via Flaminia 314 Tel. 063232433

CARPE DIEM

11

The perfect synthesis of eastern and control are combined in one discipline.

The objectives are to strengthen the abdominal muscles, the lumbar and pelvic area.

V. L. Signorelli 10 Tel. 06235040

GALLOTTA DR DOMENICO This is a well-stocked pharmacy. It also sells homeopathic, veterinary and dermo-cosmetic products, as well as galenic preparations, food supplements and gluten-free items.

Mon-Fri 08.30-19.30, Sat 08.30-13.00.

Via Cesare Fracassini 26 Tel. 063227507 Wanted in Rome 103 101

12

Areas Areas

GHETTO GHETTO

This is the small area that stretches from Largo Argentina to the river. Not much of the original ghetto remains as it was razed to the ground after the unification of Italy when Thisthe is the small area that once stretches fromtoLargo Argentina to papacy, the river.

Notallowed much of Jewish inhabitants, restricted its confines by the were to the live original ghetto as itThe was razed tosynagogue, the ground afterwas thebuilt unification of Italy in other partsremains of the city. imposing which at the end of thewhen 19th the century, Jewish inhabitants, onceofrestricted to its confines by the papacy, were allowed tobuilt live is still the centre the area and large apartment blocks of the same era were in other parts of the city.

The imposing whichare wasaround built atPortico the end of the 19th around it. The only remaining parts synagogue, of the old ghetto d’Ottavia and century, is still the centre of the area and large apartment blocks of the same era were built around it. The only remaining parts of the old ghetto are around Portico d’Ottavia and

Areas Areas

the narrow lanes that lead to Largo Argentina. Considerable restoration has been done in the area over the last decade and it is now a busy pedestrian precinct with new street the narrowcropping lanes that to every Largomonth.

Argentina.

Considerable restoration has isbeen done restaurants uplead almost The old feel of the one-time ghetto disapin the area decadeofand it is now a is busy pedestrian precinct with new street pearing fast over underthe thelast onslaught tourists.

There a choice of kosher food, two excellent restaurants almost every month.

Thestreet old feel of thealong one-time ghetto is disapbakeries, andcropping hardwareup supermarket.

There is some parking the river. pearing fast under the onslaught of tourists. There is a choice of kosher food, two excellent bakeries, and hardware supermarket. There is some street parking along the river.

Wanted in Rome 105 103 Wanted in Rome

Ghetto

PALAZZO CENCI

1 Designed by Martino Longhi il Vecchio, this small Renaissance palace is best known as the site of the murder of the abusive aristocrat Francesco Cenci by his family in the 16th century. The role of his daughter Beatrice in the murder led to her public execution and some say her ghost still haunts the palace. A presumed portrait of Beatrice by Guido Reni in Palazzo Barberini has inspired many writers and poets such as Stendhal and Shelley.

Vicolo dei Cenci

BRASS MEMORIAL COBBLESTONES

On 16 October 1943, 1,016 Roman Jews, including 200 children, were rounded up in the Ghetto and sent to Auschwitz on a sealed train. Only 16 of them returned.

Visitors to the Ghetto today will notice cobblestone-sized brass memorials listing the names, dates of birth, deportation and death in the Nazi extermination camps of some of its inhabit-ants.

The plaques are installed on the pavement outside the homes of the Holocaust victims.

Throughout the Ghetto

2

Ghetto

PORTICO D’OTTAVIA

3 The Portico d’Ottavia is a group of ancient monuments rebuilt

by Octavian (later the emperor Augustus) around 27 BC and dedicated to his sister Octavia.

Over the centuries it has survived fire, had its marble and artworks pillaged, and was used as a fish market from mediaeval times until the end of the 19th century.

It has undergone numerous reconstructions and remains the largest Roman archaeological attraction in the ghetto.

Largo 16 Ottobre 1943, close to Teatro di Marcello

Lungotevere de’ Cenci

Wanted in Rome 107 105

SYNAGOGUE

The Great Synagogue is the largest in Rome and one of the largest in Europe. It was built at the beginning of the 20th century to celebrate the opening of the ghetto walls throughout Italy and the emancipation of the Jews after the unification of Italy in 1870. In 1986 Pope John Paul II visited the synagogue, marking the first visit by a pope. In addition to being a place of worship, the synagogue serves as a cultural and organisational centre for the city’s Jewish community and also houses the Jewish Museum of Rome.

4

Ghetto

GIGGETTO

5

In the heart of ancient Rome, near Portico d’Ottavia is one of the most charming trattorie in Rome. At Giggetto’s you can enjoy the specialties of authentic Roman and Jewish cuisine - but they come at a price.

Via del Portico d’Ottavia 21 Tel. 066861105 www.giggetto.it

Sora Margherita Compact, no-frills trattoria with vintage posters, dishing up Roman pizza & pasta classics. Carbonara and polpette are a real must. Booking in advance is highly recommended. Opens at 20.00.

6

Piazza delle Cinque Scole 30 Tel. 066874216

VINAIETTO

7

Il Vinaietto is one of Rome’s oldest wine bars. The atmosphere is extremely relaxed, with excellent wines at reasonable prices. This “vineria” is a mix between a store and a wine bar. There isn’t much room for seating, just two or three tables and some stools.

Via del Monte Della Farina 38 Tel. 0668806989

DUCATI CAFFÈ The perfect place for an aperitivo, that classic moment in our modern urban life style. Salami, cheeses and an assortment of wines and teas blend with wonderful flavours and aromas.

Via Botteghe Oscure 35 Tel. 0668891718 www.ducaticafferoma.com

8

Ghetto

B&B REGINELLA

9

LB&B Reginella is on the 4th floor of a historic building in Rome’s Jewish ghetto, near the famous Turtles’ Fountain. It has large rooms with private bathroom. The Reginella’s rooms are air-conditioned and overlook the rooftops of Rome’s historic centre.

Via Della Reginella 22 www.booking.com

DESPAR Despar is an association of wholesalers and retailers that offers the very best to consumers in terms of goods and services.

10

Via S.B. di Vaccinari 74

ACQUAMADRE HAMMAM

11

The Hamman, or Turkish bath, has its origins in the Greek and Roman cultures. Here time stands still, and the per-fume of incense and the sound of running water invite inner harmony and tranquility.

Via di S. Ambrogio 17 Tel. 066864272 www.acquamadre.it

ARENULA This pharmacy is one of the few open at night. Just ring the bell and a pharmacist will answer. It is well stocked and you will find all the usual medicines for children.

Via Arenula 73 Tel. 0668803278 Wanted in Rome 109 107

12

Areas

MONTEVERDE Monteverde is situated above and beyond Trastevere, on one side of the Gianicolo. It has charming old-fashioned three or four-storey apartment blocks and tree-lined streets. The main attraction of the zone is Villa Pamphili, one of Rome’s largest parks. It is a good place for joggers and fitness freaks and offers a series of attractions, several lakes and plenty of woodland. The district is quiet and relatively traffic-free, except the Via Dandolo area, which links Monteverde to Trastevere, and around Porta di S. Pancrazio. There is a scarcity

Areas

of public transport but it offers a pleasant and seem-ingly unhurried way of life. It is the home of the American Academy and the Spanish Academy and therefore has a turnover of visiting fellows throughout the academic year. There are also various embassies and religious houses and the Spanish Liceo. The Salvador Mundi private clinic, much-favoured by foreigners, is here and the Bambino Gesù hospital for children is just across the Gianicolo.

Wanted in Rome 111 109

Monteverde

CULTURAL ACCADEMY

1 The American Academy in Rome, which was opened in 1894, provides a space for US artists, academics, musicians and historians to study in Rome, and to interact with the city’s ancient history and contemporary culture.

Via Angelo Masina 5, www. aarome.org.

The Royal Spanish Academy has hosted Spanish artists in many fields of study since its foundation in 1873, providing a cultural bridge between Spain and Italy.

Piazza S. Pietro in Montorio 3 www.accademiaspagna.org.

FONTANONE

The Fontana dell’Acqua Paola, better known as the Fontanone (literally “big fountain”) is located on the summit of the Janiculum hill. The monumental fountain was built in 1612 to mark the end of the Acqua Paola aqueduct, restored

by Pope Paul V, taking its name from him. In 2015 the fountain the fountain featured prominently in Paolo Sorrentino’s Oscar-winning film La Grande Bellezza.

S. Pietro in Montorio

2

Monteverde

GIANICOLO VIEW

3 The view from the Gianicolo hill looks out over Trastevere below, the city, the Castelli Romani and the Apennines in the far distance.

The panorama acts as a popular backdrop for photographs by tourists as well as couples on their wedding day. One of the best viewing points is the terrace directly in front of the Fontanone, which is connected to Trastevere by several steep flights of steps nearby.

Piazzale A Garibaldi

Via di S. Pancrazio

Wanted in Rome 113 111

VILLA DORIA PAMPHILJ PARK

This 17th century villa is surrounded by 184 hectares of Rome’s largest landscaped public park. The property of the noble Pamphilj family since 1630, part of the park was acquired by the city in 1939 and the remainder by the Italian state in 1957. The park is noted for its fountains, gateways, lake and statues, and is popular for walking, jogging, sports and picnics. The site is divided in two

by Via Leone XIII, with entrances on Via di S. Pancrazio, Via Aurelia Antica, Via Leone XII, Largo Martin Luther King, Via Vitellia and Via della Nocetta.

4

Monteverde

IL VASCELLO

5

This restaurant offers the possibility to taste typical Sardinian specialties, the classic Mediterranean cuisine and pizza cooked in a wood oven. All in a pleasant environment that puts us within walking distance from the wonderful panorama of Rome visible from the Gianicolo hill.

Via G. Massari 8/10 Tel. 065806517

IL CORTILE Home and friendly atmosphere and many good things to eat, starting with the large choice of different appetizers: fried potatoes, fried broccoli, rice balls and artichokes. When the season is right even porcini mushrooms and truffles.

6

Via Alberto Mario 26 Tel. 065803433 www.ristoranteilcortile.it

BAR GIANICOLO

7

Very close to the Gianicolo, this bar has a clientele of regulars customers that mix with the many tourists and Americans from the nearby American Academy.

You can have breakfast in the morning, a leisurely lunch or a drink at the end of the day.

Piazzale Aurelio 5

AL GRAMMELOT WINE BAR On the premises of a former grocery shop, the Grammelot is a real jewel.

Located on the Gianicolo overlooking Trastevere, (one of the best and most romantic views in Rome, especially at night) the bar is one of the few options in the area.

Via Giacinto Carini 39 Tel. 065800166

8

Monteverde

VILLA MARIA GUEST HOUSE

9

Villa Maria is situated near the two parks of Villa Sciarra and Villa Pamphili.

Thanks to its strategic position you can reach the Vatican and Castel S. Angelo in about a 20 minutes’ walk.

Largo B. Berchet 4 Tel. 065852031 www.villamaria.pcn.net

SMA This supermarket carries a vast selection of exclusive brands ensuring the best quality at the lowest price.

Meat and fresh fruit, as well as a variety of detergents and products for animals are also stocked.

10

Via Fonteiana 59-73 Tel. 0658332152

PASSION FITNESS

11

Passion Fitness Club’s philosophy is lessons, using the latest machinery, personnel.

Via A. Calabrese 7 Tel. 065342233

Farmacia Pamphili It’s a neighborhood pharmacy part of the community of Monte-verde Vecchio. It ‘s an “old” pharmacy, not because of the date of its opening (1975), but for the care and kindness of 19.30.

Via F. Bolognesi 27 Tel. 065897083 Wanted in Rome 115 113

12

Areas Areas

MONTI MONTI

Monti, between Termini station and Via dei Fori Imperiali, has a genuine village atmosphere even though it’s close to some of the city’s main tourist sites. There are characteristic Monti, between Termini station Viamarket, dei ForiasImperiali, a genuinePiazza village atmosphere centuries-old buildings and aand small well as thehas good-value Vittorio market evenonthough it’s close to some of the city’s main tourist sites.

There are characteristic the Esquilino hill. The best thing about Monti is its position: near to everything but at the centuries-old a small well as the Vittorioroads market same timebuildings a world ofand its own.

As market, its nameas suggests, it isgood-value on a hill andPiazza the winding are on the Esquilino hill. The bestare thing about Monti isrestaurants, its position:good near to everything butartisan at the steep and narrow.

There plenty of excellent local grocers and same time a world of its own. As its name suggests, it is on a hill and the winding roads are steep and narrow. There are plenty of excellent restaurants, good local grocers and artisan

Areas Areas

workshops. Buses run frequently along Via Nazionale to the north and Via Cavour to the south, where there is also a metro stop. The basilica of S. Maria Maggiore, in neighbouring workshops.

Buses run frequently along Via Nazionale the northMarket. and ViaItCavour to the Esquilino, is only minutes away, as are the Imperial Forumto and Trajan’s is also the south, where there isof also a metro stop.renovated The basilica of S.Parking Maria Maggiore, in of neighbouring location of a number good, recently hotels. in the heart Monti is Esquilino, isalthough only minutes away, as areinthe Forum and Trajan’s Market. It is also the impossible there are garages theImperial surrounding areas. location of a number of good, recently renovated hotels. Parking in the heart of Monti is impossible although there are garages in the surrounding areas.

Wanted in Rome 117 115 Wanted in Rome

Monti

Fourth-century paleo-Christian church dedicated to St Pudentiana, a Roman martyr and secondary patron saint of the Philippines.

The church was converted from a second-century Roman bath house, and traces of them are still visible in its apse. Today the church caters to members of the city’s Filipino community.

Via Urbana 160

Trendy market offering a large selection of hand-tailored fashion items by young independent designers, as well as bespoke accessories, vintage clothing, art works and collectibles. Housed in the basement of Hotel Palatino near the Metro Cavour stop, the market is open Sat-Sun 10.0021.00.

Via Leonina 46

MERCATO MONTI

BASILICA DI S. PUDENZIANA

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Monti

This large neoclassical building, known in Rome as the Palaexpo, was constructed as an exhibition space in 1883 by Pio Piacentini. It hosts regular shows, mainly with a foreign focus, and also has a cinema, lecture hall, well-stocked book shop and restaurant. Mon closed.

Via Nazionale 194 www.palazzoesposizioni.it

The focal point of this square is a fountain built in 1587 by Giacomo della Porta, who also designed the nearby Madonna dei Monti church. The fountain acts as a popular meeting place, particularly in the evenings.

Piazza della Madonna dei Monti

Wanted in Rome 119 117

PIAZZA DELLA MADONNA DEI MONTI

PALAZZO DELLE ESPOSIZIONI

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Monti

HASEKURA

5

Tourists are welcome but most customers are Italian, including many politicians and show-biz stars. There are few but high quality wines. There is a good choice of classic dishes on the menu and you will also find sukiyaki. Jazz plays in the background.

Via dei Serpenti 27 Tel. 06483648

ALLE CARRETTE There is a wide range of pizzas and the fritti are renowned, particularly the fiori di zucchine and supplì. Frequented by a mixture of locals and tourists, tourists, this busy pizzeria is a perfect venue for meeting up with a big group of friends.

Open daily and serves until relatively late.

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Via Madonna dei Monti 95 tel. 066792770

LIBRERIA BOHÈMIEN

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Stairs and shelves, tables and occasional lamps, painted walls and comfortable armchairs create a fascinating and retro atmosphere. Drinks are between 19.00 and 22.00, all for €5… quite cheap for a journey of mind and spirit.

Via degli Zingari 36 Tel. 3281730158

TRE SCALINI A true wine bar, or rather a bottiglieria, whose key features are the wine and the atmosphere. The Bottiglieria Tre Scalini is rustic and informal but well-run and it offers genuine quality products.

Via Panisperna 251 Tel. 0648907495 www.aitrescalini.org

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Monti

IL COVO B&B

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Il Covo features spacious and comfortable guest rooms set in ancient Roman buildings. It has excellent transport links by both metro and bus and is just one stop away from the main station, Termini.

Via Del Boschetto 91 Tel. 064815871 www.bbilcovo.com

CONAD IL BOSCHETTO Conad has built up a good national distribution system and offers a wide range of products and services in tune with the everyday realities of its customers.

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Via del Boschetto 52 Tel. 064880341

MONTI FITNESS

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Monti Fitness is a new gym in Monti. It provides jazz dance, pilates, postural training, hip hop, break-dance, activities for children, boxing exercise, weights room, cardio fitness. Qualified instructors.

Via di S. Agata dei Goti 19 Tel. 064743293

FARMACIA SAVIGNONI This pharmacy was founded in 1740 and in addition to the usual range of products it also sells homeopathic medicines. Mon-Fri 08.30-13.00, 16.0019.30.

Via dei Serpenti 125 Tel. 064882973 Wanted in Rome 121 119

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Areas

PANTHEON - CAMPO MARZIO This is the political centre of the capital. Within a few metres of the massive columns of the Pantheon you can watch most of the country’s politicians go by, to the Senate, the Chamber of Deputies, the government offices or just to the restaurants and bars that crowd the narrow streets. Whereas in other countries the parliament and government buildings shelter behind impenetrable security fencing, in Rome anyone can gaze at them from only a few metres away. Apartments to rent here are scarce and the family-run shops

Areas

and street markets have been squeezed out by supermarkets, night-time drinking places, pizzerie and smart restaurants. The most elegant part of the area is around Piazza in Lucina, which is now a pedestrian precinct, just off the busy Via del Corso. There are probably more baroque churches here than in any other city in the world. Most of the area is now closed to cars, street parking is very limited and the existing garages are always full.

Wanted in Rome 123 121

Pantheon - Campo Marzio

If you look above the Basilica di S. Eustachio you will see the head of a deer, sculpted by Paolo Morelli in reference to the legend of St Eustace, a general under Emperor Trajan. The story goes that while he was hunting stag in Tivoli Eustace had a vision of a crucifix between a stag’s antlers, leading to his conversion to Christianity.

Via di S. Eustachio

The churches of S. Agostino (in Piazza S. Agostino), and S. Luigi dei Francesi (in Piazza di S. Luigi de’ Francesi) hold works by the 17thcentury artist Michelangelo Merisi, better known as Caravaggio. The Madonna del Loreto was painted in 1609 and can be viewed in S. Agostino, while the St Matthew’s series of three masterpieces is in S. Luigi dei Francesi. a - Piazza S. Agostino b - Piazza di S. Luigi de’ Francesi

caravaggio paintings

basilica di s. eustachio

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Pantheon - Campo Marzio

pantheon

3 The Pantheon was founded in 27 BC by Marcus Agrippa and dedicated to all the gods of ancient Rome but it burnt down in 80 AD. It was then rebuilt by the emperor Hadrian between 120 and 124 AD. The building was converted to a Christian church by Pope Boniface IV in 609. The Pantheon has the world’s largest non-reinforced concrete dome, whose height from floor to the oculus, and diameter of the interior circle, is 43.3m. The Pantheon is also the burial place of 16th-century artist Raphael and two Italian kings, Vittorio Emanuele II and Umberto I. Piazza della Rotonda

Via del Caravita 8

Wanted in Rome 125 123

chiesa di s. ignazio di loyola

The church of St Ignatius of Loyola is best known for its trompe-l’œil fresco painted in the dome. Funds for the building ran out before the dome over the altar was completed so the painter Andrea Pozzo created the illusion of a tall, ribbed and coffered dome on the flat ceiling.

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Pantheon - Campo Marzio

Maccheroni

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Laid-back restaurant mixing farmstead decor with industrial chic, serving homemade Roman cuisine. Opens at 7 PM. Piazza delle Coppelle 44 Tel. 0668307895

CASA BLEVE Casa Bleve is an extremely elegant venue, considered among Rome’s most beautiful wine bars. Its extensive wine list, both by the bottle and by the glass, is complemented by a buffet offering meats, cheeses, fish and salads.

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Via del Teatro Valle 48 Tel. 0645476337

salotto 42

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An elegant bar furnished in vintage style.

A trendy location facing ancient Roman ruins with a mix of locals and expats. At the weekend brunch and a buffet are served. Voted one of the world’s best bars.

Piazza di Pietra 42 Tel. 066785804

spiriti If you are living or working in the Pantheon area you must stop by and visit this small family-run Enoteca. Here you will be able to taste excellent salads along with very good raw fish. The wine list offers a vast selection. Service is friendly and professional. This Enoteca isn’t exactly cheap but it’s worth a try.

Via S. Eustachio 5 Tel. 066833691

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Pantheon - Campo Marzio

albergo abruzzi

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Set in the heart of the historic centre, this hotel is ideal for those of you who really want to get a feel of Rome.

The historic building was completely renovated in 2006 and features modern facilities.

Piazza della Rotonda 69 Tel. 066792021 www.hotelabruzzi.it

díperdí DíperDí is a chain of supermarkets that provides food, goods and services on your doorstep. It will meet all your daily needs, from fresh and organic food to a complete range of high quality brands.

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Via Giustiniani 18 Tel. 0668891452

moves

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Fitness for women and man in the centre of Rome. Here you will find innovative methods, the latest equipment and competent personal trainers.

Via dei Coronari 46 Tel. 066864989

international CHEMIST One of the most popular pharmacies in the centre thanks partly to its location.

It is often open late at night and you will find almost everything you need, from the most basic medicines to beauty creams and toys for children.

Piazza Capranica 96, Via Colonnelle 1 Tel. 066794680 Wanted in Rome 127 125

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Areas Areas

POPOLO--SPAGNA SPAGNA POPOLO

If you are looking for somewhere to live in this part of town head for the charming Via

Margutta nestledfor under the Pincio was once a warren of artists’ studios, but is nowVia an If you are looking somewhere tohill. liveIt in this part of town head for the charming up-market area where you will be paying over the odds. There are picturesque apartments Margutta nestled under the Pincio hill. It was once a warren of artists’ studios, but is now an on the numerous streets that lead from Via del Babuino to Via del Corso but they are almost up-market area where you will be paying over the odds. There are picturesque apartments inaccessible by car. It is still the best, most fashionable and most expensive shopping area on the numerous streets that lead from Via del Babuino to Via del Corso but they are almost in town and you can wander from Bulgari, to Gucci, Fendi, Max Mara, Armani and plenty inaccessible by car. It is still the best, most fashionable and most expensive shopping area in town and you can wander from Bulgari, to Gucci, Fendi, Max Mara, Armani and plenty

Areas Areas

more in just a few minutes. It is full of restaurants, which are no longer as good as they used this minutes. is the place theofcity’s top hotels suchare as the d’Inghilterra, moretoinbe, justbut a few It isforfull restaurants, which no Hassler, longer as good as they the Plaza and de Russie. Head towards Piazza del Popolo if you are looking for some quiet used to be, but this is the place for the city’s top hotels such as the Hassler, d’Inghilterra, or up the Spanish Steps to the area around the French Academy at Villa Medici. There is a the Plaza and de Russie. Head towards Piazza del Popolo if you are looking for some quiet busy metro stop in Piazza di Spagna and one just off Piazza del Popolo; there are always or up the Spanish Steps to the area around the French Academy at Villa Medici. There is a plenty of taxis but hardly any buses. busy metro stop in Piazza di Spagna and one just off Piazza del Popolo; there are always plenty of taxis but hardly any buses.

Wanted in Rome 129 127in Rome Wanted

Popolo - Spagna

barcaccia fountain

1 Set at the bottom of the Spanish Steps, the Barcaccia was commissioned by Pope Urban VIII (1623-1644), allegedly inspired by a boat washed up there during a flood of the river Tiber. The travertine fountain was built in 1626-29 and is accredited to Pietro Bernini, father of the more famous Gian Lorenzo who possibly assisted in creating the monument.

Via di S. Piazza di Spagna, at the bottom of the Spanish Steps

Piazza del Popolo 12

basilica of s. maria del popolo

This church contains works by several famous artists including Bernini, Caravaggio and Raphael.

The basilica was consecrated in 1477, although its origins date back to 1099. In in the mid-17th century Bernini added a baroque façade. The Cerasi Chapel inside the basilica has two of Caravaggio’s most famous works: the Crucifixion of St Peter and Conversion on the Way to Damascus.

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Popolo - Spagna

keats-shelley house

3 This small museum is dedicated to the lives of English Romantic poets John Keats and Percy Bysshe Shelley. Located at the foot of the Spanish Steps, the museum contains one of the world’s largest collections of memorabilia and manuscripts relating to Keats and Shelley, as well as Lord Byron, Wordsworth, Robert Browning, Elizabeth Barrett Browning and Oscar Wilde.

Piazza di Spagna 26 Tel. 066784235 www.keats-shelley-house.it

From Piazza del Popolo to Piazza Venezia

Wanted in Rome 131 129

Via del Corso

Linking Piazza Venezia with Piazza del Popolo, this is Rome’s main shopping area and most of the city’s luxury shops are located in the narrow streets to the left and right. The 1.5-km thoroughfare also passes close to the Trevi fountain, the chamber of deputies, the Pantheon and Palazzo Doria Pamphilj.

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Popolo - Spagna

gusto

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The pizzeria is on the ground floor, but the dining area extends under the arcade around Piazza Augusto Imperatore. Inside it is a bit like a factory; iron beams are combined with wood but all in inviting neutral tones.

Piazza Augusto Imperatore 9 Tel. 063226273 www.gusto.it

hotel locarno

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settimio All’Arancio Settimio all’Arancio offers traditional Mediterranean cuisine, an extensive wine selection, tables outside, but also an air conditioned area. All major credit cards are accepted and reservations are advisable. The specialties are grilled meat and fish. Good quality at reasonable prices.

Via dell’Arancio 50 Tel. 066876119 www.settimioallarancio.com

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Don’t miss this unusual location in the heart of Rome, especially on warm evenings. Today the Locarno’s prestigious top floor terrace is open to the public for excellent cocktails and dinner. At weekends there is live jazz.

Via della Penna 22 Tel. 063610841 www.hotellocarno.com

buvette Elegant with a very professional service, similar to the old coffee shops. As well as the restaurant, Buvette also has a tearoom. Well prepared dishes, including excellent homemade desserts. It is advisable to book.

Via Vittoria 44 Tel. 066790383

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Popolo - Spagna

hotel forte

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Hotel Forte is situated in a historic building in Via Margutta, a nice little street in Rome’s historic centre, near the Spanish Steps and the Spagna metro station, line A. Via Margutta 61 Tel. 063207625 www.hotelforte.com

CARREFOUR EXPRESS A small supermarket off the beaten path that has a large selection of wines and spirits, a to- go handmade sandwhich counter, and anything else you might need such as toothbrushes and diapers.

Open 24 hours.

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Via Vittoria, 22 A Tel. 0632111416

KEEP FITNESS BOUTIQUE

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In the historic heart of Rome, near famous designer shops, Keep Fitness Boutique offers clients modern and trendy courses with utmost attention to the science of sport, taught by specialized personal trainers.

Via Bocca di Leone 60 Tel. 066798356

farmacia trinita’ DEI MONTI products, homeopathic, health and dermocosmetics ones. Mon-Sat 08.3020.00.

Piazza di Spagna 30 Tel. 066790626 Wanted in Rome 133 131

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Areas

PRATI Built at the end of the 19th century, Prati is one of the few examples of rational city planning in Rome. It has wide streets, well-built apartment blocks around internal courtyards and a solid, respectable air. This is a good place for both food and clothes shopping and is much cheaper than the historic centre (the most important streets are Via Trionfale for food and Via Cola di Rienzo for clothes). Prati offers a great variety of attractions, from restaurants to cinemas and night clubs. It is near St Peter’s and not far from the centro storico. Public

Areas

transport is good (both buses and underground) and it’s a good solution for those who want to be close to the centre, but who can’t afford the prices. Apartments are more spacious and cheaper than in more central zones and there is plenty of street parking for residents and off-street parking in private garages. Prati is the home of Rome’s criminal and civil courts and many lawyers have their offices here.

Wanted in Rome 135 133

Prati

corte di cassazione

1 The Palace of Justice is located between Piazza Cavour and the Lungotevere embankments and is known by Romans as the Palazzaccio. It is the seat of the Supreme Court of Cassation.

Designed by Perugia architect Guglielmo Calderini, the building was one of the largest construction projects carried out in Rome in the late 19th century. It underwent extensive renovations in the 1970s due to its foundations sinking into the alluvial soil below. Prati is also the home of the the civil courts in Via Giulio Cesare and the criminal courts in Piazzale degli Eroi.

Piazza Cavour

Via Ulpiano 29

chiesa sacro cuore del suffragio

The church of the Sacred Heart of Suffrage is sometimes referred to as the little Milan Cathedral thanks to its remarkable neogothic facade. The church also houses the Museum of the Souls of Purgatory whose walls contain the likeness of a human face, dating to a fire in 1897. The priest at the time believed the image was a soul in Purgatory making contact with the living. Located on the Lungotevere near the Corte Costituzionale, the church was designed by Giuseppe Gualandi and completed in 1917.

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Prati

stadio olimpico

3 Rome’s Olympic Stadium was inaugurated in 1953 although its history dates back to 1928 when there was a smaller fascistbuilt stadium on the same site. It hosted the opening and closing ceremonies of the 1960 Summer Olympics. It was almost entirely rebuilt for the 1990 World Cup and then had another minor restyling in 2008. The stadium, which seats more than 70,000 spectators, is home to the Serie A football clubs Lazio and AS Roma, and each year it hosts international matches, the Golden Gala track and field event, and the Coppa Italia final.

Viale dei Gladiatori

From Piazza della Libertà to Piazza del Risorgimento

Wanted in Rome 137 135

via cola di rienzo

Prati’s main shopping street offers a combination of clothing chain stores, boutiques and food shops. Prices here are cheaper than in the historic centre. The thoroughfare is named after the mediaeval politician and tribune of the Roman people who is commemorated with a statue near the Campidoglio, where he was killed in 1354.

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Prati

zen sushi restaurant

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Inspired by the culture of the Land of the Rising Sun, this restaurant is designed to meet the most demanding customers’ requests with a careful selection of raw seafood and expertly combined vegetables.

Via degli Scipioni 243 Tel. 063213420

dal toscano A fine selection of Tuscan dishes. Tuscan starters, fagioli al fiasco, pappardelle and pici alla toscana, ribollita, all with a good bottle of Chianti and above all the best grilled meat, have made this famous among the capital’s restaurants.

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Via Germanico 58 Tel. 0639725717

il sorpasso

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A very nice place where you can start with an aperitivo (good choice of wines and cocktails) and continue with dinner. All dishes are good and the staff is pleasant and welcoming. Finally a friendly place in Prati. Just of Piazza Risorgimento.

Via Properzio 31 Tel. 0689024554

La Zanzara Excellent drinks, food and atmosphere.

Great attentions from the staff. The bartenders know what they’re doing and are very creative with the preparation and presentation of cocktails! Opens from 7.30 AM to 02.00 AM. Via Crescenzio 84 Tel. 0668392227

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Prati

hotel metropoliS

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Hotel Metropolis is near the Vatican City and Villa Borghese, 200 metres from Lepanto metro station. The modern rooms have air conditioning, TV and minibar. The Metropolis is just ten minutes’ walk from St Peter’s and the Vatican Museums.

Via delle Milizie 26 Tel. 0637512539 www.hotelmetropolisrome.com

COOP This supermarket aims to sell as many products to as many customers as possible for as little as possible, but at the same time guaranteeing both safety and quality.

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Via Ferrari Giuseppe 43 Tel. 0637518144

dabliu

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In the heart of Prati, among the many elegant buildings along Viale Giulio Cesare, the 1,300 sqm of Dabliu Prati, is dedicated to your physical and mental also to escape from everyday stress.

Viale Giulio Cesare 43 Tel. 0632110214 www.dabliu.com

giulio cesare This pharmacy was founded in 1838 and sells veterinary products, cosmetics, homeopathic medicines, gluten-free items, galenic preparations and Chinese remedies. Mon-Sat 08.30-19.30.

Viale Giulio Cesare 209-211 Tel. 0639725493 Wanted in Rome 139 137

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Areas

ST PETER’S Life here centres on St Peter’s and the pilgrim trade but the surrounding “borghi”, as they are known, are an indication of what the area was like before Mussolini knocked most of it down to drive Via della Conciliazione straight through to St Peter’s Square. Full of tourists, pilgrims, priests and Vatican officials, the area is always crowded and is not for anyone with a car. The residential area is Borgo Pio, now a pedestrian precinct, where some Romans

Areas

still live and work. There are a few good and reasonably priced hotels but the restaurants are generally expensive and poor quality. Going towards the Tiber, you will see Castel S. Angelo, once a fortress for the popes, now a museum, surrounded by one of the few green parks in the centre. There is an interesting residential area just behind Castel S. Angelo where the apartment buildings are of solid, late 19th-century construction.

Wanted in Rome 141 139

St Peter’s

castel s. angelo

1 Initially built as a mausoleum for the emperor Hadrian and his family, Castel S. Angelo was later used as a papal fortress and is connected to the Vatican via an 800-m long escape route called the Passetto di Borgo. It was used as a prison from Renaissance times up to the 19th century and today is a museum.

Lungotevere Castello

Piazza S. Pietro

st peter’s

The original fourth-century church was built over the place where St Peter was thought to have been buried. It soon became the central place of Christian worship and pilgrimage in western Europe but by the end of the 15th century the church buildings were in a bad state of repair and were demolished. Rebuilding started under Pope Julius II and over the next century almost all the great Renaissance architects and artists – Bramante, Bernini, Maderno, Michelangelo, Raphael – had a hand in the new design. The square in front of the basilica is the scene of many papal events.

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St Peter’s

vatican museums

3 The Vatican Museums house not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Etruscan Museum, the Egyptian Museum, the Gallery of Tapestries, the Gallery of Maps and the Pinacoteca. There are also separate tours of the Vatican Gardens. Due to the large number of visitors it is recommended that tickets are bought in advance.

For details see website www. museivaticani.va.

Viale Vaticano

From Castel S. Angelo to St Peter’s

Wanted in Rome 143 141

via della concilazione

This wide thoroughfare connects St Peter’s Square with Castel S. Angelo and was constructed under Mussolini. The street was controversial from the outset as it required the demolition of whole blocks of houses and moving the displaced residents. During major Vatican events, such as canonisations, papal elections or funerals, the street acts as an extension of St Peter’s Square.

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St Peter’s

da benito e GILBERTO

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Just a few steps from St Peter’s, the restaurant has room for just 30 seats and wide selection of fresh seafood every day, as well as an excellent wine list.

Via del Falco 19

INTERNO 92 entrance, wisely presided over by a butcher who recommends the best cuts,

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grilled, fried or pan-baked.

Borgo Vittorio 92 Tel. 0668804299

Bukowski’s Bar

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A gallery-cafe-Bistrot and wine and cocktail bar located on Borgo Pio, in the centre of Rome a few steps from St Peter’s.

Friendly and cool environment. It is open every days from 16.00 to 02.00.

Via degli Ombrellari 25 Tel. 0664760105

passaguai A meeting place where you can stop at all times of day to relax in a simple and welcoming environment. It is open for lunch, for dinner and after dinner. This is a place where you can listen to good music and even discover new young artists.

Via Pomponio Leto 1 Tel. 06687451358 www.passaguai.it

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St Peter’s

hotel s. anna

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The lounge and the enchanting courtyard are pleasant places to meet and relax. Hotel St Anna is an upper 3-star hotel and guarantees its guests a charming and comfortable atmosphere.

Borgo Pio 133 Tel. 0668801602 www.hotelsantanna.com

CARREFOUR EXPRESS The

supermarket

in

your

you need. From food to detergents.

Everything in just a few minutes walk

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all your favourite brands.

Largo di Porta Castello

sporting prati

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activities, including pump, GAG, back exercises and stretching, but also martial arts such as taekwondo, bodybuilding and cardio-vascular activity.

There is also a sauna.

Via Germanico 101 Tel. 063219132

lazzaro raffaella This pharmacy sells homeopathic, veterinary and cosmetic products as well as galenic preparations and gluten-free food. Mon-Fri 08.30-19.30, Sat 08.30-13.00.

Borgo Pio 44/a Tel. 0668802889 Wanted in Rome 145 143

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Areas

TESTACCIO Built in the 19th century to house the workers in the slaughterhouse and the industrial zone of the Ostiense, today Testaccio is a popular residential area. Just across the river from parts of Trastevere it gives a good idea of the real Roman life, and also offers a variety of night life and excellent restaurants. What was once the slaughterhouse has now been transformed into a cultural complex, Mattatoio, with its restored gallery spaces for contemporary art.

About ten minutes by bus to the historic centre, Testaccio is good value for money. Large

Areas

apartment blocks surround internal courtyards and there is still a village feel about the area. The much-loved street market that was once in Piazza Testaccio is now operating out of its new complex in Via Galvani and the square itself has now been beautifully restored with a fountain in the centre. Both buses and the metro connections are excellent and there is also an electric train to Ostia Lido on the coast.

Wanted in Rome 147 145

Testaccio

This large complex was once part of Rome’s old slaughterhouse designed by Italian architect Gioacchino Ersoch. Today it hosts social and cultural events and is dedicated to a spirit of fair trade, renewable energy and sustainability. It is best known for its summer music festivals and year-round organic food markets and car boot sales.

Largo Dino Frisullo

This is one of the sites of the municipal museum of contemporary art (the other is in Via Nizza in the Salario district).

Housed in the city’s old abattoir, Mattatoio holds cutting-edge contemporary art exhibitions and also contains La Pelanda, an art centre with studios and workshops. Tues-Sun 14.00-20.00.

Mattatoio

CITTÀ DELL’ALTRA ECONOMIA

1

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4

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Testaccio

MONTE DEI COCCI

3 Also known as Monte Testaccio, this man-made mound of ancient, broken Roman amphorae has provided valuable insights into the economy of Imperial Rome.

Its role as a ancient Roman dump ceased around 260 AD and it was later used by the popes for Good Friday ceremonies to symbolise the hill of Golgotha in Jerusalem.

Via del Monte Testaccio

Via Galvani

Wanted in Rome 149 147

4

MERCATO TESTACCIO

This modern, covered market was opened in 2012 following the demolition of the old openair market in Piazza Testaccio a few blocks away. The 5,000-sqm premises sells fruit and veg, meat and fish, as well as clothes and household items. It is located near MACRO and can be accessed from Via Alessandro Volta, Via Galvani, Via Ghiberti and Via Beniamino Franklin. 06.00-14.00. Sun closed.

Testaccio

DA FELICE

5

A Roman trattoria frequented mainly

by Romans and visitors in the know.

Excellent amatriciana and cacio e pepe.

The abbacchio (lamb) is excellent as well. Don’t forget to try the home-made tiramisù in a glass.

Via Mastro Giorgio 29 Tel. 065746800 www.feliceatestaccio.com

PIZZERIA NUOVO MONDO Here the pizza is bigger and thicker, with standard toppings such as scamorza and speck, aubergine, cherry tomatoes

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personalise the ingredients for no extra cost.

Via Amerigo Vespucci 15 Tel. 065746004

L’OASI DELLA BIRRA

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Scottish brands too. At the Oasis of Beer you can also order all kinds of salami, exceptional local and foreign cheeses plus soups, goulash, pies, sandwiches and salads.

Piazza Testaccio 38 Tel. 065746122

KETUMBAR For more than 15 years Ketumbar has been at the centre of Rome’s night life.

The atmosphere and the surroundings, the lighting and music are designed to make Ketumbar a special meeting place.

Via Galvani 24 Tel. 0657305338 www.ketumbar.it

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Testaccio

B&B TESTACCIO

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The formula is the classic bed and breakfast with plenty of originality and atmosphere. Unique, welcoming, stylish and clean.

Piazza S. Maria Liberatrice Tel. 0657289562

TESTACCIO MARKET The new covered market offers good quality meat, fish, fruit and vegetables at excellent prices. Also a pastry shop, a kitchen shop, flowers, books and shoe stalls.

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Via Galvani and Via Alessandro Volta

C.S. AVENTINO

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With some 40 years of experience, C.S. Aventino has high professional and international standards. There is a 25-metre swimming pool as well as a sauna and a gym.

Via Marmorata 14 Tel. 065740637 www.csaventino.it

FARMACIA DE ANGELIS This pharmacy has existed for decades and offers gluten-free products, galenic preparations, homeopathy and veterinary products. Also a section dedicated to perfumery and to health care. Mon-Fri 08.30-19.30.

Via Marmorata 133 Tel. 065740941 Wanted in Rome 151 149

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TRASTEVERE Trastevere used to be defined as the most Roman of all the districts, but not many real Romans live here any longer. Sandwiched on a narrow strip of land between Monteverde Vecchio and the Tiber, it is as picturesque as the historic centre. Once a favourite location for foreigners living in Rome, recently it has become too expensive and too crowded. There are still numerous good restaurants and night-spots but they are being squeezed out by pizzerie and ice cream parlours. The public transport is good so you could do without a car,

Areas

especially as parking is almost impossible. There are still some street markets, although the one in Piazza S. Cosimato has lost its local charm since it was modernised. Along Porta Portese, which skirts the Tiber, you will find endless accessories for cars, motorbikes and bicycles but there are few real bargains now at the famous Sunday market of the same name.

Wanted in Rome 153 151

Trastevere

BASILICA S. MARIA IN TRASTEVERE

1 One of the oldest churches in Rome, the basilica’s construction is said to have been ordered

by Pope Callisto I in the fourth century. The church underwent numerous major renovations over the centuries and is most noted for embellished with ornate carvings and paintings.

Piazza S. Maria in Trastevere

Largo Cristina di Svezia 24

ORTO BOTANICO

Located by the prison in Trastevere, this garden was originally established in 1883 when the Corsini family donated its garden to the Italian state. Now run by La Sapienza university, it hosts over 3,500 species of plants and includes Japanese gardens and a “Scent-and-Touch” garden for visually impaired visitors. Sun closed.

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Trastevere

PALAZZO CORSINI

2 The national collection of ancient art is housed in this palace built by Rome’s Corsini family in the mid18th century. The gallery is located on the first floor and contains works by artists such as Carracci, Caravaggio, Poussin, Guido Reni and Rubens. One of Rome’s few museums open on Mondays.

Via della Lungara 10

Via della Lungara 230

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VILLA FARNESINA

This 16th-century Renaissance villa was commissioned by Agostino China, the treasurer of Pope Julius II, and designed

by Sienese architect Baldassarre Peruzzi. Towards the end of the 16th century the Farnese family purchased the villa, hence the Farnesina name. It has frescoes by artists including Raphael, Sebastiano del Piombo and Giulio Romano.

Trastevere

DAR POETA

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Dar Poeta is a popular pizzeria. The environment is lively and the pizzas are made from quality natural ingredients.

The menu includes good bruschette, try the one with the ciauscolo, a soft salami from the Marche, and a wide variety of salads.

Vicolo del Bologna 46 Tel. 065880516

ENOTECA FERRARA

FRENI E FRIZIONI

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Charming, different from the touristy places in the area. Slightly more classy, but at pretty much same prices as its neighbouring restaurants. Easy to miss but totally worth a visit. Good selection of wines. Italian tapas from the bar. Friendly staff.

Piazza Trilussa 41 Tel. 0658333920 www.enotecaferrara.it

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FrenieFrizioni is cool. A few steps from Piazza Trilussa, it is simply furnished with salvaged furniture, but is elegant and welcoming with popular aperitivo in the evenings.

Via del Politeama 4 Tel. 0658334210 www.freniefrizioni.com

OMBRE ROSSE A wine bar and a cafeteria known for its music (live jazz on Friday evening).

Ombre Rosse offers a selection of meats and cheeses, salads and other cold dishes, excellent wine cellar and a large selection of liqueurs and spirits.

Piazza S. Egidio 12 Tel. 0697616676

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Trastevere

RESIDENZA BELLI INN

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Residenza Belli’s rooms are comfortable and well-kept, with air conditioning, minibars and WiFi. Residenza Belli’s friendly reception staff will give you free tourist maps on arrival.

Via Goffredo Mameli 47 Tel. 0645428696 www.residenzabelli.it

MERCATO RIONALE This market in Trastevere is a busy outdoor food and flower market where customers can buy fresh products or just watch the locals shopping and bargaining with stall owners. The market is open Mon-Sat from 06.0013.00.

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Piazza S. Cosimato

L’ALBERO E LA MANO

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A series of activities and services including shiatsu and massage. Here you can practice various types of yoga and follow related courses.

V. Pelliccia 3 Tel. 065812871 www.lalberoelamano.it

Farmacia Dr Rellecati This pharmacy, founded in 1734, sells homeopathic products, dermocosmetics, galenic preparations and products for coeliacs. The pharmacist speaks good English. Mon-Sat 08.3020.30.

Piazza di S. Maria in Trastevere Tel. 065803776 Wanted in Rome 157 155

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