Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 13, Numero 5 MAY 2021 | € 2,00
THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME
WHAT'S+
ON
WHERE TO GO IN ROME
ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS
0 0 0 0 5
CONT
EDITORIALS 4. INTERVIEW WITH
PRESIDENT OF THE AMERICAN UNIVERSITY OF ROME Marco Venturini
10. ROME TO OPEN LARGO ARGENTINA SITE TO VISITORS Andy Devane
14. LA TUSCIA: ONE OF ITALY’S BEST-KEPT SECRETS
MISCELLANY
WHAT'S ON
18. LAKES AROUND ROME 20. ROME FOR children 22. STREET ART guide 24. MUSEUMS 28. ART GALLERIES 45. CULTURAL VENUES 51. RECIPE 52. puntarella rossa 54. USEFUL NUMBERS
34. EXHIBITIONS 38. ART news 41. Classical 41. Dance 42. Festivals 42. LECTURES ONLINE
Judith Harris
THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME
Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 13, Numero 5 MAY 2021 | € 2,00
DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 PROGETTO GRAFICO E IMPAGINAZIONE: Dali Studio Srl STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 30/04/2021
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WHAT'S+
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WHERE TO GO IN ROME ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS
The Light is Outside III by Nancy Cadogan Photography by Bruce Wright From exhibition Gusto at Keats-Shelley House See page 36 for details.
ENTS 4
INTERVIEW WITH PRESIDENT OF THE AMERICAN UNIVERSITY OF ROME
10
34
ROME TO OPEN LARGO ARGENTINA SITE TO VISITORS
FESTIVALS
43 ART NEWS
Education
INTERVIEW WITH PRESIDENT OF THE AMERICAN UNIVERSITY OF ROME WANTED IN ROME PUT SOME QUESTIONS TO AUR PRESIDENT DR SCOTT SPRENGER Marco Venturini WiR: What is your personal and professional experience with Italy? SS: Before starting my role as president of The American University of Rome in August 2020, my experience with Italy was limited. In a previous role as professor and dean in Utah, I regularly taught a course on Italian cinema and had administrative oversight of a study abroad programme in Siena. One of the most glorious weeks of my life, in fact, was an oversight trip that included several days of cycling around Tuscany. Before that, I had made a few trips to Italy as a student and tourist, including to Rome in 1979, and hitchhiking from Brindisi to France (via Yugoslavia, Greece and Corfu) when I was very young, and when hitchhiking was still considered OK. I’ll never forget the stunning countryside and the experience of meeting kind Italians from various regions and walks of life. How did AUR cope with the covid-19 crisis, what measures did it put in place and were they successful? AUR coped amazingly well. The sudden plunge into a crisis without existing processes or protocols was obviously a pressure cooker. Fortunately, my excellent leadership team quickly came up with academic, technological and security solutions that served us well for the entire year. Despite AUR’s decision to remain open for business 4 | May 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Dr Scott Sprenger, president of The American University of Rome.
Education
Graduation Day at The American University of Rome.
with in-class teaching for the 2020-21 school year, we have had very few disruptions (mainly by governmental decree to close temporarily) and only a handful of infections. I’m very happy with the result and the way the entire community supported our efforts and complied with the necessary protocols and interventions. What do you think of online teaching, and do you think it could substitute “in class“ lessons? That’s a complicated question. For some institutions and for some disciplines - especially where learning is procedural and focused on information transfer - online delivery can be truly excellent. For AUR, however, our trademark educational experience and value proposition do not align well with the online medium. There are four key reasons: 1) our students want to be in Rome, not on a basement couch, in order to take direct advantage of the city’s on-site resources; 2) our educational value derives from the lateral
learning that comes from small, discussion-based classes and close faculty-student mentorships; and 3) we value diversity and the learning that comes from the lively, and often edgy, interaction between students and faculty from across the globe; 4) we have many creative and experiential disciplines requiring on-site presence and/or access to equipment, such as filmmaking and digital media, studio art, archaeology, even language. It’s difficult to teach these courses in any meaningful way online. What are, in your opinion, the main challenges the education sector has to face in the post pandemic world? Beyond putting a short-term damper on student mobility, the pandemic has in many ways merely accelerated long-term trends already in place. The biggest challenge since the 2008-9 financial crisis has been an intense focus by students and parents on the “return on investment” of a college degree. Wanted in Rome • May 2021 | 5
Education In practical terms, this focus on ROI means intense price sensitivity and much more emphasis on career-oriented degrees, such business or STEM. A second challenge is the declining student-aged demographics and a fierce global competition for students. That, combined with the emergence of large recruitment agencies, is putting downward pressure on tuition and a higher demand on career-friendly curriculum. Managing these market pressures while staying true to AUR’s liberal arts mission will be the key to our success. What are the advantages of having an American education? Apart from the most obvious advantage of learning in English - the lingua franca of the global economy - the American system is distinctive in these two ways: we pay very close attention to the learning needs and aspirations of individual students - advising them on how to best align their personal interests, values and sense of purpose with their academic and career choices. The American system also places tremendous emphasis on a balance between specialised learning (the major), broad, interdisciplinary learning (general education) and personalised learning (electives, the minor). While many students want to focus only on a career specialisation, employers and labour researchers tell us that this American-style, interdisciplinary approach to learning is optimal for developing the knowledge, characteristics, attitudes and skill bundles valued by employers and that better serve the students’ interests over the long arc of a life and career. Which are the strengths of AUR? What has AUR to offer to potential students? AUR’s strengths lie in its tight-knit community, the diversity of its student body and faculty, and the many opportunities for discovery, and selfdiscovery, as an individual. We are situated in one of the most interesting cities in the world, and we have an outstanding international faculty and a student body with over 50 nationalities represented on our small campus. This diversity of backgrounds, experiences, cultures and viewpoints is at the core of what makes the AUR learning community different and exciting. Our emphasis on diversity and inclusivity and our small sizes ensure that every voice is heard. 6 | May 2021 • Wanted in Rome
The AUR campus is located on the Janiculum Hill.
Would you be looking to recruit more studyabroad or resident students? For me, all students who come to AUR are AUR students; all students bring interesting perspectives to the AUR classroom. That said, my first priority this past fall was to develop and launch a new strategic plan to recruit resident students. That effort has already paid dividends in historically high numbers of student recruits for fall 2021. Let’s hope covid doesn’t ruin that. We have also worked in parallel to think creatively about expanding and improving our study abroad partnerships and transfer pathways. The pandemic has made it clear to me that we need to balance our student body between these three cohorts, both for institutional sustainability and for a more enriching student experience.
Education
Dr Sprenger began his tenure as president of The American University of Rome in July 2020.
Are Italian students a potential marketing target?
education offer and would you ever consider launching in Milan?
They are already a focus for recruitment. Our differentiating feature from Italian universities, besides the American curriculum taught in English, is a much clearer focus on the individual’s learning aspirations, faculty mentorships and small interactive classrooms. Another is that students don’t need to choose a career path from the outset. The American system builds in an exploratory period and provides flexibility to change career paths without losing time. Italians also have the added benefit of being able to complete a four-year American degree in three years. Around 20 per cent of our current students are Italian and all those who have undertaken their degrees with us in the past have excelled both academically and personally.
I have not given this question any thought. It’s not in our current planning, but I never say never.
Do you see differences between the two main Italian cities (Rome and Milan) in terms of 8 | May 2021 • Wanted in Rome
What do you think the role of AUR should be in Rome? AUR, the first American university in Rome, should continue to communicate the value of a traditional liberal arts education to Rome, Italy and the world. We also want to be good citizens and strategic partners with local and international institutions. We want to continue to be the go-to institution for expert media commentary on current events and for research partnerships. Finally, as we stated previously, we want to offer an alternative kind of education to Italian students who, like most students, are looking for an inspirational and life-enhancing, if not transformational, experience.
Health
ROME TO OPEN LARGO ARGENTINA SITE TO VISITORS BVLGARI'S LATEST ACT OF PATRONAGE TO ROME WILL ALLOW VISITORS TO WALK THROUGH THE AREA SACRA AT LARGO ARGENTINA FOR THE FIRST TIME Andy Devane
W
orks to open up Rome’s archaeological site at Largo di Torre Argentina to the general public for the first time will begin in mid-May thanks to a €1 million project sponsored by luxury jeweller Bvlgari.
The news was announced in mid-April by Bvlgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin and Rome mayor Virginia Raggi, and the completed project is expected to take about a year. Raggi said the works will make the site accessible
Major works are about to get underway at Largo Argentina. Photo credit: ColorMaker / Shutterstock.com.
10 | May 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Health
Rendering of proposed development. Image courtesy Sovrintendenza Roma.
in “an integral, definitive way” and that until now people have been accustomed to looking down on the sunken ruins from street level, “as if from a balcony.”
the adjoining Torre del Papito – at the corner between Via Florida and Via di S. Nicola de’ Cesarini – acting as a ticket office and exhibition space.
“It is one of the most evocative places in Rome, a treasure chest in the heart of the city,” the mayor said, underlining that the archaeological complex houses four temples dating from between the third and second centuries BC.
The walkways, illuminated at night, will offer a close-up view of the four Roman Republican temples, including the circular monument to the goddess of Fortune, and the remains of Pompey’s Theatre.
The so-called sacred area of Largo Argentina, discovered unexpectedly in 1926, is best known as the scene of the assassination of Julius Caesar on the Ides of March in 44 BC.
Visitors, including those with disabilities, will be able to view the numerous finds from the excavations carried out during the Fascist-era demolitions to make way for new buildings in the area.
Caesar was killed by a group of 60 conspirators, led by his senator friends, Brutus and Cassius, during a meeting of the senate in the Curia Pompeia, opposite the modern-day Teatro Argentina. The new Bvlgari scheme involves creating a system of raised paths, allowing visitors to “walk through history” according to Raggi, with
The plan to make the site accessible to visitors is the latest act of patronage to Rome by Bvlgari which opened its first shop in the Italian capital, on Via Sistina, in 1884. Five years ago the luxury jeweller financed the €1.5 million restoration of the Spanish Steps while more recently it provided a significant Wanted in Rome • May 2021 | 11
Health With terrace views over the Mausoleum of Augustus, the luxury hotel will reportedly have 114 rooms and is situated just minutes away from Bvlgari’s flagship store on the exclusive shopping street Via dei Condotti. Bvlgari CEO Babin told the media that opening a hotel in front of the Mausoleum of Augustus is “a dream,” adding that he believes the project will kick-start “a new generation of five-star hotels” in Rome. The archaeological complex at Largo Argentina is of course also home to a popular cat sanctuary, located below street level, sheltered by a high wall, at the Via Arenula corner of the ancient site. When news of the upcoming development was announced a few weeks ago, Wanted in Rome was inundated with the same question: “What about the cats?” The city has assured that the works will not affect the residents of the cat sanctuary whose origins date back to the excavations in the late 1920s when the animals began to call the place their home. Rendering of proposed development. Image courtesy Sovrintendenza Roma.
financial contribution to the new lighting system illuminating the Ara Pacis museum and its ancient altar. The re-lighting project at the museum in March came days before the city opened the Mausoleum of Augustus – the monumental tomb of Rome’s first emperor – following a €6.5 million restoration funded by the Italian telecommunications firm TIM. The hive of activity in the surrounding Piazza Augusto Imperatore includes ongoing works by Bvlgari to convert a landmark building in the square into a five-star hotel. The Bvlgari Hotel, due to open in 2022, was once the base of Italy’s National Institute for Social Security (INPS)INPS building in a rationalist-style building designed by Vittorio Ballio Morpurgo, built between 1936 and 1938. It is fronted with travertine and decorated with a 70-sqm mosaic by Ferruccio Ferrazzi interpreting the legendary founding of Rome in 753 BC. 12 | May 2021 • Wanted in Rome
“The feline shelter will not be touched, it will be protected” – said Raggi – “and the cats, famous in Rome and around the world, will stay where they are, silent custodians of this heritage.” Monica Baraschi, the shelter’s vice president, stated that the association “doesn’t have a problem with the works and it was reassuring that the mayor has said the cats will be respected and will remain in their place and from the viewpoint of the association there is no concern for our cats.” Fiona Shaw, a long-term volunteer at the sanctuary, told Wanted in Rome: “Many of the cats who patrol that area are the more feral and shy cats who are not so used to and who don’t particularly enjoy human contact and we are sure they will continue to keep a safe distance from visitors if they choose to.” Shaw said that the other more sociable cats “probably won’t know any difference as they like to hang out inside or in the shelter’s garden where they can sunbathe” and where they enjoy the comfort of their beds and the company of visitors.
Wanted in Rome • May 2021 | 13
Book
LA TUSCIA: ONE OF ITALY’S BEST-KEPT SECRETS A REVIEW OF MARY JANE CRYAN’S BOOK EXPLORING THE SECRETS OF LA TUSCIA NORTH OF ROME
O
ne of the best-kept secrets of Italy is called La Tuscia – that is, the territory stretching from north of Rome all the way to the Tuscan border. Within La Tuscia are a host of picturesque, unspoiled historic towns, from the seafront Fregene to those on hilltops along the Via Cassia including Sutri, Capranica, Vetralla and Viterbo. The name Tuscia derives from Aetruria, meaning the homeland of the Etruscans, which it was until it was annexed by
Panorama of Vetralla. Photo by Agostino Cecchini.
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Judith Harris the Romans in 89 BC. But even they called it Tuscia. And so it has remained today. The Irish-American scholarly author cum lecturer Mary Jane Cryan has specialised in revealing the secrets of this fascinating territory. Arriving in Rome in 1965 from Boston, she delighted in the sense of moving back in time. Subsequently she took up residence in the town of Vetralla, which she has helped make famous through her multitude
Book
The eighth-century crypt at Chiesa di S. Francesco. Photos by William Gray Harris.
of magazine articles, guide book contributions, university and cruise ship lectures, and ten books. During the early Middle Ages, thanks to the fact that the Via Cassia was linked to northern Europe, the fortress city within stout walls was a stopover for pilgrims walking to the Holy City. The town’s ancient buildings stretching along the top of a cliff hover over an unspoiled valley. They were once surrounded by a double ring of protective walls and towers that seem to have disappeared but actually were incorporated inside the buildings, including Cryan’s library. Over time Vetralla was associated with the aristocratic families of Rome, from the Orsini to the Borgia and the Farnese. Vetralla's connection with Henry VIII is commemorated in a plaque in the town hall. It came about because in 1512 Pope Julius II made a gift of Vetralla to Henry VIII's ambassador, Cardinal Christopher Bainbridge, who had first studied in Oxford and then in Italy, studying law at Ferrara and Bologna universities. Bainbridge's funeral monument is inside the
Chiesa di S. Francesco in Vetralla.
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Book Venerable English College on Via di Monserrato in Rome. Today, located 10 km south of Viterbo and 45 km from Rome, it enjoys frequent train service from the Ostiense, Trastevere, S. Pietro and Valle Aurelia stations in the capital. Among the most recent of Cryan’s books illustrating the town, its territory, its people and history, is Etruria, Storie e Segreti (2019), which, as an Italian critic pointed out, “enriches the history of our land.” It is a land, he wrote, characterised by both marvels and also rough spots – a place of “contrasts and conflicts” that render it unique among all other towns, and not only those in the Lazio region but also in Tuscany and Umbria. Among Cryan’s books in English, available through her website www.elegantetruria.com, is Travels to Tuscany and Northern Lazio (2004). Her other books include The Irish and English in Italy’s Risorgimento (2011), Etruria – travel, history and itineraries in central Italy (2011), Affreschi – Exploring Etruria (2001), and Vetralla, the English Connection (2000). Indicative of the scholarship
Fulvio Ferri's recipe for Carciofi all'Agnesina Since we had a large family my grandmother knew how to save money on the ingredients; in fact, the carciofi are neither “alla giudia” nor “alla romana” but a little bit of both. INGREDIENTS FOR 4 4 cimaroli (the best and biggest, from the top of the plant) artichokes, 4 alici cleaned and deboned, 2 cloves of garlic, fresh mentuccia (mint), lots of extra virgin olive oil, dry white wine. How to clean the artichokes: Take off the external leaves until the white part is visible at the base, cut the top 1/3 of the artichoke and cut the stem until the base of the artichoke so that it can stay “seated” in the pan. Immerse them immediately in water with vinegar or lemon juice to keep them from turning black. Clean the stem with a knife and cut in pieces measuring 7/8 cm and add them to the water. COOKING Enlarge the “mouth” of the artichoke and put in half cloves of garlic, the fresh mint and a small anchovy. Pour oil over the artichokes and set them in a terracotta pan. The pan’s surface should be covered with oil. Place them close to each other with the stem pieces. Add water and wine in equal parts but not submerging the artichokes. Cover the pan and cook over a low fire until the liquid begins to boil lightly. Move them once in a while to be sure that they do not stick to the pan as they cook. They are ready when a fork easily enters the base of the artichoke. Enjoy with white delicate wine.
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Opera Extravaganza concert at the 16th-century church of S. Pietro, also known as Madonna del Riscatto in Vetralla.
behind her work is just one of her awards, the City of Capranica Prize for Historical Research. A cookbook of 53 traditional local recipes written by her partner Fulvio Ferri is published in Italian with an English translation by Cryan. Besides being a passionate amateur chef, Ferri is an expert on the Viterbo territory and former secretary of the local environmental association Fondo Ambiente Italiano (FAI). Needless to say, olive oil plays a major role in his recipes, but if it is from Vetralla, as Ferri advises, the olive oil becomes the “dominant motif” of a dish, contributing “intensity and unique sensations,” in the words of Prof. Stefano Grego of the Tuscia University in Viterbo. His recipes for treats like Neapolitan pizza with zucchini flowers and omelette with wild asparagus and hops (luppoli) are clear and well explained. For artichoke lovers, here is the Vetralla way of preparing Carciofi all’Agnesina (Agnesina style), which takes its name from his grandmother, Agnesina, who ran a restaurant in that town.
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LAGO DI ALBANO This volcanic crater lake presents visitors with beautiful views of its clear water and surrounding forests. The picturesque towns along the shores serve as popular summer resort areas for Romans, including Castel Gandolfo, home to the summer papal palace whose gardens were recently opened to the public. On the other side of the lake is Palazzolo, a villa bought by Rome’s Venerable English College in 1920 and now open to guests. The towns surrounding the lake are known for their restaurants, shops and fruit farms. Swimming, fishing and boating are among the favourite activities for visitors, and the lake’s beach is located on the western shore. A simple 45-minute train ride from Termini, visitors can reach Lago Albano by taking the FL4 train towards Albano Laziale and getting off at the Castel Gandolfo stop.
around rome
LAGO DI BOLSENA Located on the site of the Vulsini volcano, dormant since about 100 BC, this crater lake has two islands and is surrounded by rolling hills and vegetation. The area around Montefisascone on the southeast shore of the lake is famous for its Est! Est!! Est!!! wine. The town of Bolsena in the northeast is a popular tourist resort in summer and it is here that the famous so-called Eucharistic Miracle took place in 1263 when a Bohemian priest is said to have seen blood coming from the host that he had just consecrated at Mass. Capodimonte on the southwest of the lake is also worth a visit. The lakeside area provides activities for sports and nature enthusiasts all year round. The best way to reach Lago di Bolsena from Rome is by car, as buses to Bolsena from Termini Station are infrequent.
LAGO DI NEMI Lago di Nemi is a small and unique volcanic lake where divers in the 19th century discovered two large ships built for the notorious Roman emperor Caligula at the bottom of the lake, filled withbottom of the lake, filled with artworks and treasures. Replicas of the ships along with other artefacts are on display at the nearby Museum of Roman Ships. Travellers can also visit the natural caves around the lake, which were a favourite haunt of 19th-century foreign artists such as Turner. Nemi is associated with the cult of the Roman goddess Diana, and, for the last 80 years, an annual strawberry festival. Visitors can reach the lake by taking the SS7 Appia southbound as far as Genzano, and then following signs for Nemi.
LAGO DI BRACCIANO Just north-west of Rome along the Via Cassia, Lake Bracciano is one of the most easily accessible lakes for Romans. The ban on motor boats (except for a little ferry) means it remains an ideal spot for swimming, sailing and canoeing. The Lega Navale operates a dinghy sailing school in Anguillara. Churches and historic sites are located in the three small towns around the lake: Bracciano, Trevignano and Anguillara. There are also places for camping and horse riding tours by the lake, which is just an hour on the Viterbo train line from Rome’s Ostiense station. The lake is overlooked by the 15th-century Orsini-Odescalchi castle in Bracciano, often chosen as the venue for jet-set weddings, and there is also an air force museum at nearby Vigna di Valle.
LAGO DI VICO Formed by the volcanic activity of Mount Venus, Lago di Vico offers a unique geological backdrop set amid lush woodland and hills. The surrounding nature reserve is a haven for wildlife, but what is most characteristic of the area are the hazel and chestnut plantations. Lakeside campsites and hotels offer swimming, sailing and horse riding. The two towns worth a visit are Ronciglione and Caprarola with its magnificent and recently restored Villa Farnese. Lago di Vico is a 90-minute drive from Rome taking the SS2 Cassia, and turning north at Sutri.
LAGO DI MARTIGNANO This tiny volcanic lake just to the east of Lake Bracciano offers clean water and beaches with scenic views of the surrounding meadows and wildlife. Lago di Martignano is known for its outdoor activities such as horse riding, hiking, mountain biking and swimming. Umbrellas, loungers and luggage storage are available to rent along with canoes, sailboats and windsurfing equipment. It is also known for the hot sulphurous springs surrounding the lake. Arriving at Lago di Martignano by car is the easiest option. Reaching the lake by public transport involves taking the FM3 train to Cesano and opting for either a local bus or taxi.
18 | May 2021 • Wanted in Rome
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ARTandSEEK Please note that not all of these activites English-language culturaldue workshops visits to are currently open, to theand covid-19 museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For crisis. It is advisable to check websites event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforfor visiting details and make reservation kids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandsebefore going. ekforkids.com. Bioparco Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and offers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it. Bowling Silvestri This sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.
20 | May 2021 • Wanted in Rome
There are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com. Casa del Parco Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com. Casina di Raffaello Play centre in Villa Borghese offering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Raffaello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadiraffaello.it.
Cinecittà World This 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special effects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it. Climbing Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, Thurs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473. Explora The 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it. Go-karting Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it. Gymboree This children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, offering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it. Hortis Urbis Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it. Il Nido Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.
Luneur Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it. Rainbow Magicland The 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it. Time Elevator A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. The time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it. Zoomarine This amusement and aquatic park outside Rome offers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.
Wanted in Rome • May 2021 | 21
Rome’s artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant importantstreet street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre. Here is where to is find Rome’s mainthe street artstreet projects murals. from the centre. Here where to find main artand projects and murals around Rome. Esquilino Esquilino Murals Murals byby Alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Pistone, Nicola Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Alessandrini, Diamond. Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, Piazza Fanti 47. PiazzaMafredo Manfredo Fanti 47. Marconi Marconi The The M.A.G.R. M.A.G.R. (Museo (Museo Abusivo Abusivo Gestito Gestitodai daiRom), Rom),a aproject projectby byFrench French street artistSeth Seth is located in a street artist is located in a former former soap factory Via Antonio soap factory on Viaon Antonio AvogaAvogadro, opposite dro, opposite Ostiense'sOstiense’s landmark landmark Gasometro. details see Gasometro. For For details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com. Museodell’Altro dell’Altroe edell’Altrove dell’Altrovedidi Museo Metropoliz Metropoliz This former former meat meat factory factory inin the the This outskirts of of Rome art outskirts Rome isis now nowa astreet street museum being home hometoto art museumasaswell well as as being some200 200squatting squatters,migrants. many of The them some migrants. The Museo dell’Altrodi e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altroveor diMAAM, Metropoliz, or MAAM, Metropoliz, is only open only open Saturdays, and onis Saturdays, andon features the work the work of moreincluding than 300 offeatures more than 300 artists artists including Gio Edoardo Kobra,Edoardo Gio Kobra, Pistone, Pistone, Sten&Lex Diamond.and See Sten&Lex, Pablo and Echaurren MAAM Facebook page for details. Borondo. See MAAM Facebook page Via Prenestina 913. for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense Ostiense Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Fluviale. Porto Fluviale. Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Fluviale. Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Magazzini Generali. Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense Via Ostiense. underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. Pigneto Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Pigneto Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.
22 | May 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi. Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Fortebraccio. 2501 mural on Via Blu by Sten Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Francesco Baracca. Francesco Baracca. Prati Prati Anna Magnaniportrait portrait by Diavù. Anna Magnani by Diavù. Nuovo Nuovo MercatoViaTrionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Andrea Doria. Andrea Doria. theSabotino. bear by Daniza the bear byDaniza ROA. Via ROA. Via Sabotino. Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai. Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing the Bembo. Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Tunnel byMure. Mr THOMS and Pistone. murals Via Decio Gio Decio Mure. Via del NidoPistone. di Vespe Via by Lucamaleonte. Nido didel Vespe by Lucamaleonte. Via Monte Grano. del Monte Baby Hulkdel byGrano. Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89. Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Murals by Blu. Via Palombini (Casal dèCiciliano Pazzi). and Via Palombini dè Pazzi). Welcome to(Casal Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station. Metro B station. S. Basilio S.SanBa Basilio features large-scale works on SanBa features large-scale works the façades of social-housing blockson in the of social-housing blocks the façades disadvantaged north-east suburb of in the disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerasuburb of S.includes Basilio works near Rebibbia. tion project by Italian The project artistsregeneration Agostino Iacurci, Hitnesincludes and Blu works by Spain's ItalianLiqen. artistsViaAgostino alongside Maiolati, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Spain’s Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia. S. Giovanni Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S.Apulia Giovanni corner of Via Farsalo. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.
It’s aa New NewDay Daybyby Alice Pasquini. It’s Alice Pasquini. Via Via Anton Ludovico. Anton Ludovico. S. Lorenzo Lorenzo S. AlicePasquini. Pasquini. ViaSabelli. dei Sabelli. Alice Via dei Feminicidemural mural Elisa Feminicide by Elisaby Caracciolo. Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi.Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via Viadei deiVolsci Volsci159. 159. Borondo. Mural by by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia. Via Aquilonia. Pietro S. Pietro UmaCabra Cabra Bordalo II. Stazione Uma byby Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, di Monte di S. Clivo Pietro, Clivo del di Gallo. Monte del Gallo. Testaccio Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. Testaccio #KindComments AliceVia Pasquini, Via Hunted Wolf bybyROA. Galvani. Volta, Testaccio market. #KindComments by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market. Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Tor Pignattara Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51. Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Coffee Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Etnik.Break ViabyBartolomeo Perestrello Pavoni. 51. Coffee Break by Etam Cru. Via Tom SawyerPavoni. by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Ludovico Serbelloni. Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Gabrio Serbelloni. Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Alessi. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Herakut. Via Capua 14. Galeazzo Alessi. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Herakut. Via Capua 14. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia The Big City Life scheme features 14-m Tormurals Marancia tall by 22 Italian and internaThe Big City artists Life scheme features tional street including Mr 14-m tall by Jerico. 22 Italian and Klevra, Seth,murals Gaia and The idea international street was to transform theartists area's including blocks of Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. flats into an open-air art museum. Via TheMarancia. idea was to transform the area’s Tor www.bigcity.life.it. blocks of flats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.
Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth. Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.
Wanted in Rome • May 2021 | 23
ROME'S MAJOR
MUSEUMS PLEASE NOTE THAT NOT ALL OF THESE MUSEUMS ARE CURRENTLY OPEN, DUE TO THE COVID-19 CRISIS. IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS AND MAKE RESERVATION BEFORE GOING.
VATICAN MUSEUMS
Crypta Balbi
Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.
Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia
Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums
Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.
STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian
Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.
Borghese Museum
Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.
Castel S. Angelo Museum
Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine
Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.
24 | May 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian. Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.
MAXXI
Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.
Palazzo Corsini
Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.
Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale
Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.
Palazzo Altemps
Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.
Palazzo Barberini
Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme
Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.
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Wanted in Rome • May 2021 | 25
Villa Farnesina
Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.
PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe
CITY MUSEUMS
Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.
Centrale Montemartini
Chiostro Del Bramante
Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.
Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.
Capitoline Museums
Doria Pamphilj Gallery
Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna
Galleria Colonna
Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.
MACRO Asilo
Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space until the end of 2019. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.
Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.
MATTATOIO
Giorgio de Chirico House Museum
Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.
Museo Barracco
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.
Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi
Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.
Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.
Keats-Shelley House
Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.
Museo storico della Liberazione
Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets
Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.
Museo Canonica
Palazzo Merulana
Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).
Museo Napoleonico
Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.
26 | May 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.
Wanted in Rome • May 2021 | 27
PLEASE NOTE THAT NOT ALL OF THESE GALLERIES ARE CURRENTLY OPEN, DUE TO THE COVID-19 CRISIS. IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS AND TO MAKE RESERVATION BEFORE GOING.
ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY
ART GALLERIES
1/9 Unosunove
1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.
A.A.M. Architettura
Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ff-maam.it.
Contemporary Cluster
Visual art, design, architecture, fashion design and beauty apothecary in a 17th-century palace. Via dei Barbieri 7, tel. 0668805928, www.contemporarycluster.com.
C.R.E.T.A.
Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Delfini, Via dei Delfini 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.
Dorothy Circus Gallery
Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.
Ex Elettrofonica
This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.
Fondazione Memmo
Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.
Fondazione Pastificio Cerere
This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.
Fondazione Volume!
The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.
28 | May 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Franz Paludetto
Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.
Frutta
This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. C 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.
Gagosian Gallery
M
The Rome branch of this international contemporary art Y gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via CM Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.
GALLA
MY
Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconvenCY tional art works at affordable prices by artists working in various fields. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, CMY www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti. K
Galleria Alessandro Bonomo
Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.
Galleria Valentina Bonomo
Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.
Galleria Frammenti D’Arte
Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.
Galleria Lorcan O’Neill
High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.
Galleria della Tartaruga
Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.
Galleria Il Segno
Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.
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Wanted in Rome • May 2021 | 29
MAXXI amazes you, always art
architecture design photography cinema
30 | May 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Galleria Mucciaccia
Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.
Galleria Russo
Operativa Arte Contemporanea
A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.
Pian de Giullari
This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.
Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.
Galleria Varsi
Plus Arte Puls
A dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di Grotta Pinta 38, tel. 066865415, www.galleriavarsi.it.
Gavin Brown's Enterprise
New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.
Il Ponte Contemporanea
Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.
RvB ARTS
Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.
Sala 1
Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.
This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.
La Nuova Pesa
S.T. Foto libreria galleria
Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.
MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea
Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.
Magazzino d’Arte Moderna
Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.
Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.
Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri
The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.
T293
Monitor
The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.
Nero Gallery
The Gallery Apart
Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.
This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.
Nomas Foundation
TraleVolte
This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.
Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.
Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.
White Noise Gallery
Based in the S. Lorenzo district, this gallery exhibits unconventional work by young Italian and international artists. Via della Seggiola 9, tel. 066832833, www.whitenoisegallery.it.
Wunderkammern
This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.
Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin
Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it. Wanted in Rome • May 2021 | 31
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where to go in Rome
WHAT’S ON Gusto exhibition by Nancy Cadogan at Keats-Shelley House. See page 36.
Wanted in Rome • May 2021 | 33
EXHIBITIONS Museums and archaeological sites in Rome reopened on 26 April after the Lazio region was classified as a lower-risk yellow zone under Italy's covid-19 restrictions. Weekend visits must be booked at least one day in advance, either online or by telephone. For updates check the websites of the venue as well as our website, www.wantedinrome.com.
BRONZINI
7 MAY-31 JULY
Sala 1 hosts a most original exhibition: artworks made up of 1 and 2 cent pieces and on sale for the equivalent price. The project is the work of the GB Group (Giordano Boetti Raganelli, Leonardo Gualco and Alessandro Giaccobe), Pietro Ruffo, and the duo LU.PA (Lulù Nuti and Pamela Pintus). The gallery says the initiative was motivated by a desire to transform the "wasteful" coins
Museo di Roma in Trastevere shows the photographs of Sandro Becchetti.
– whose production costs exceeds their value – into works of art. Sala 1, Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.
ALL ABOUT BANKSY: EXHIBITION 2 5 MAY-9 JAN
Chiostro del Bramante presents ALL about BANKSY, a new exhibition dedicated to the anonymous British street artist whose powerful, satirical and thought-provoking murals are celebrated around the world. The show, which follows an earlier Banksy exhibition, will feature about 250 artworks from private collections. Chiostro del Bramante, Via Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www. chiostrodelbramante.it.
ANGELA MARIA PIGA: SYNECDOCHE 29 APRIL-12 JUNE
Bronzini exhibition at Sala 1.
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Maja Arte Contemporanea hosts Angela Maria Piga's second solo exhibition at the gallery on Via di Monserrato. The works on display, 25 sculptures in ceramic and terracotta, belong to a "liminal world, one lying between the animal and the human," according to the gallery. The sculptures by the Rome-based artist are complemented by the collection of sound poems, with the same title as the exhibition. Via di Monserrato 30, tel. 0668804621, www.majartecontemporanea.com.
CHIAMALA ROMA 27 APRIL-5 SEPT
The Museum di Roma in Trastevere hosts an exhibition of photographs taken by Roman photographer Sandro Becchetti between 1968 and 2013, the year of his death. Organisers describe the show as a personal and poetic reinterpretation of Rome, highlighting the "uniqueness of a contradictory and complex city." In addition to photographing the capital's buildings and inhabitants, Becchetti immortalised leading cultural figures of the day such as de Chirico, Hitchcock and Pasolini whose portraits are on display. Museo di Roma in Trastevere, Piazza S. Egidio 1/b, tel. 060608, www.museodiromaintrastevere.it.
COLORI DEI ROMANI 27 APRIL-15 SEPT
One of Rome's quirkiest but least-visited museums, Centrale Montemartini is a former industrial power plant housing over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the collection of the Capitoline Museums. It also hosts temporary exhibitions, with its latest display dedicated to a wide selection of precious mosaics from the Capitoline collections. Accompanied by a series of fresco fragments, sculptures, historical photographs, watercolours and drawings, the mosaics offer insights into Roman society between the first century
Savinio at Palazzo Altemps. Photo Studio Zabalik.
BC and the fourth century AD. Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www. centralemontemartini.org.
SAVINIO: INCANTO E MITO 27 APRIL-13 JUNE Palazzo
Altemps
provides
the
magnificent backdrop to this exhibition of works by Alberto Savinio (1891-1952) an intellectual figure whose multiple interests ranged from music to literature, painting and theatre. Savinio, a brother of Giorgio de Chirico,
combined ancient and modern, aesthetics and irony, memory and fantasy in his work which is displayed among the museum's collection of classical sculpture. The exhibition features around 90 paintings and prints created mainly between 1925 and 1931 with a particular focus on the artist's years in Paris. Palazzo Altemps, Piazza di S. Apollinare 46, www.museonazionaleromano. beniculturali.it.
QUADRIENNALE DI ROMA 27 APRIL-18 JULY
Colori dei Romani mosaics at Centrale Montemartini.
The 2020 Quadriennale di Roma, a major showcase of contemporary Italian art in the capital, reopens and continues a tradition begun in Rome in 1931. The 17th edition of the art event, which features the work of 43 artists in an exhibition offers an "unprecedented perspective" on Italian art, occupies both floors of Palazzo delle Esposizioni. Quadriennale president Umberto Croppi said that the Quadriennale – curated by Sarah Cosulich and Stefano Collicelli Cagol, with the support of the Italian culture ministry – acts as a grand revival for Italian contemporary art. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, www.palazzoesposizioni.it. Wanted in Rome • May 2021 | 35
THE TORLONIA MARBLES: COLLECTING MASTERPIECES 26 APRIL-29 JUNE
Part of the legendary Torlonia Collection, considered among the world's most important private collections of Greek-Roman classical art, is now open to the public again but has been delayed and closed several times due to the covid-19 crisis. Villa Caffarelli at the city’s Capitoline Museums displays 92 pieces from the revered “collection of collections,” which comprises 620 marble, bronze and alabaster statues, busts, bas-reliefs and sarcophagi dating to the ancient Roman era. The collection, amassed between the 15thand 19th centuries, has been largely hidden away for the last 70 years. The works have been restored in a project financed by luxury jeweller Bvlgari (see page 8), and there are plans afoot to find a venue in Rome in which to display the collection to the public on a permanent basis. Villa Caffarelli, Capitoline Museums, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org.
POMPEII 79 AD: A ROMAN STORY 26 APRIL-9 MAY
The Colosseum hosts an "unprecedented" exhibition that examines the history of the longstanding relationship between Rome and Pompeii. The exhibition comprises almost 100 pieces and reconstructs the complex dialogue that linked the two most famous sites in Italian archaeology from the Second Samnite War to the eruption of 79 AD. The display is centred around the reconstruction of social and cultural relations, traceable in particular through archaeological research, and is enriched by videos and virtual projections. The show is displayed on the second tier of the Colosseum and is divided into three large sections – the alliance phase, the Roman colony phase, the decline and end of Pompeii. For visiting details see website, www.parcocolosseo.it.
IO DICO IO - I SAY I 26 APRIL-23 MAY
The Galleria Nazionale delle Arte Moderna (GNAM) stages an exhibition comprising works by
36 | May 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Treasures from the Torlonia Collection at the Capitoline Museums. Photo Electa.
around 50 Italian women artists from varying generations and backgrounds. The gallery says the show "originates from a necessity to take the floor and speak for oneself in order to assert one’s subjectivity," and "looks deep into the word we already have, feminism." The artists whose work is on on display include Carla Accardi, Vanessa Beecroft, Lisetta Carmi, Isabella Ducrot, Elisa Montessori, Antonietta Raphaël and Francesca Woodman. Galleria Nazionale, Viale delle Belle Arti 131, www.lagallerianazionale.com.
NANCY CADOGAN: GUSTO 26 APRIL-31 MAY
The Keats-Shelley House presents Gusto, an exhibition of new work commissioned from Nancy Cadogan. The British figurative artist was tasked with creating a series of paintings that celebrated the life and legacy of the Romantic poet John Keats and to mark the 200th anniversary of his death. The KeatsShelley House describes her body of
work as a "deeply thoughtful and considered series of oil paintings, referencing her learned knowledge of Keats’s work and grounded in symbolism and hope for an uncertain future." For visiting details see www.ksh.roma.it.
JOSEF KOUDELKA: RADICI 26 APRIL-29 AUG
The Ara Pacis Museum dedicates an exhibition to Josef Koudelka, the award-winning Czech photographer from the Magnum Photos agency, with more than 100 spectacular images of ancient Roman and Greek heritage. As the title suggests, the exhibition highlights Koudelka's photographic journey in search of the roots of our history in the most important archaeological sites in the Mediterranean. The black and white "timeless views" on display are part of a travelling exhibition featuring the work of the photographer who was born in Moravia in 1938. Museo dell’Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, ww.arapacis.it.
ART NEWS ITALY REOPENS CULTURAL VENUES IN COVID YELLOW ZONES
Museums, theatres, cinemas and live music venues were permitted to reopen on 26 April in the lowerrisk 'yellow zones' under Italy's colour-coded system of coronavirus restrictions. Museums in yellow zones (which includes Rome) are now permitted to open also at weekends, with visitors obliged to book at least a day before. The other cultural venues are allowed to stage screenings and live performances indoors under strict conditions and limited numbers of spectators: 25 per cent of the full capacity but not exceeding 500 people indoors or 1,000 outdoors. All visits must be booked in advance with visitors required to wear protective face masks and maintain interpersonal distance.
ITALY SCRAPS FILM CENSORSHIP
Italy has abolished film censorship as part of a new decree establishing the Film Classification Commission, the culture minister Dario Franceschini announced in April. "The system of controls and regulations that still allowed the state to intervene on the freedom of artists has been overcome definitively," said Franceschini. The move will bring an end to the state's power to censor scenes or bans movies outright, with the newly formed commission comprising 49 experts whose task will be to
assess the "correct classification of cinematographic works." Films are classified under various age brackets in Italy, beginning with movies suitable for children under the age of six. The other categories include over-14s (or aged 12+ if accompanied by parent) and over 18s (or 16+ accompanied by adult). The panel's members include expert representatives from the film industry, from producers to directors, as well as those involved in education and the protection of children and animals. There are few recent examples of tough censorship that was used until the 1980s. However in the past films by Italian directors such as Pier Paolo Pasolini, Bernardo Bertolucci and Luchino Visconti were the subject of censorship in their home country under legislation dating back to 1913. Movies that have been banned outright in Italy include Alfred Hitchcock's Nodo alla gola (Rope), outlawed from 1949 until 1956; Bertolucci's Last Tango in Paris was banned from 1972 until 1987; A Clockwork Orange, Stanley Kubrick's ultra-violent 1971 movie, was not shown in Italy until it was screened on pay-to-view television in 1999, and it was not until 2007 that is was shown on free-to-air television. A permanent virtual exhibition, cinecensura.com, comprises archive material pertaining to 300 feature films as well as 100 advertisements and short films
Museums in Rome - including the Capitoline Museums pictured here - have reopened to visitors.
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Artwork from the Cinecensura virtual exhibition.
banned in Italy over the decades. Created by the Centro Sperimentale di Cinematografia Foundation and the National Film Library, the online exhibition is divided into four themed sections relating to the reason for censorship: sex, politics, violence, religion.
ROME ART HISTORY AND ARCHAEOLOGY LIBRARY REOPENS AFTER PETITION
Rome's celebrated library of books devoted to art history and archaeology at Palazzo Venezia reopened in midApril after an online petition garnered more than 6,500 signatures. The Biblioteca di Archeologia e Storia dell’Arte (BIASA) is Italy's only national library dedicated to art history and archaeology and it contains many volumes in English. It has been closed since the first covid-19 lockdown in March 2020. The petition, addressed to culture minister Franceschini, was organised by CUNSTA (National University Council for the History of Art) which called for the reopening of the library "with the utmost urgency," reports Artribune. The petition stated that "students of art history, archaeology
Raphael at Accademia di S. Luca. Photo ANSA.
and cultural heritage have in this library the primary tool of their training," Franceschini looked favourably on the appeal, with the library publishing a notice of its reopening on its website alongside a list of covid-19 protocols and visiting times. Several years ago it was announced that the library would eventually move from Palazzo Venezia to a new base at Palazzo S. Felice on Via della Dataria, near the Trevi Fountain. A time-frame has yet to be given for the move which has been allocated €10 million under the culture ministry's Grandi Progetti scheme.
ROME FRESCO FRAGMENT IS BY RAPHAEL, EXPERTS CONFIRM
A fragment of fresco in the collection of Rome's Academy of S. Luca has been confirmed as the work of High Renaissance master Raffaello Sanzio (1483-1520). The attribution is the result of a research and conservation project financed by the Patrons of the Galleria Borghese - Roman Heritage Onlus, carried out on the 500th anniversary of the artist's death. The confirmation follows a cleaning of the fresco panel which was donated to the prestigious Roman academy by the French Neoclassical painter and art collector Jean-Baptiste Wicar in 1834. The finding brings to an end a debate over the attribution of the piece which some claimed was a 19th-century forgery. The element of doubt surrounding the fragment of fresco was "heavily compounded" by a poorly conducted restoration in the 1960s which obscured the quality of the work, reports Italian news agency ANSA. However, following the results of the latest cleaning, experts were left in no doubt that the fresco was by the hand of Raphael. Restorers say the fragment is "completely compatible with the technique used by Raphael" and that "it can be said with certainty that the work is traceable back to Raffaello Sanzio." Andy Devane Wanted in Rome • May 2021 | 39
40 | May 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Classical
With the improvement in the weather and hopefully the lessening of the covid-19 restrictions music performances will move outside. Keep an eye on Accademia S. Cecilia website www.santacecilia.it. There could be both a digital programme and outside concerts in the Cavea at the Auditorium Parco della Musica as there was last summer.
Myung-Whun Chung conducts Mahler's Resurrection Symphony at Maggio Musicale Festival.
Una Sera...Chopin in live streaming on the Teatro dell'Opera YouTube platform.
DANCE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA Una Sera...Chopin 1, 3 May
Choreography by Giorgio Mancini to music by Chopin with the ballet corp of the Teatro dell'Opera di Roma. Mancini takes seven wellknown pieces by Chopin (preludes,
nocturne, waltz, mazurka) as the basis for what the programme describes as a Romantic Dream in One Act based on the Mariinsky's Chopiniana by Mikhail Fokine first performed in 1908. This dreamy and atmospheric work is already available on the Teatro dell'Opera YouTube platform. It has only just premiered (on 16 April) and has already proved very popular, with complimentary comments in numerous languages. Chopin's works are played by Renata Russo, piano. See Teatro dell'Opera di Roma website, www.operaroma.it.
A Midsummer Night’s Dream 2 May
This is the 2004 production with Alessandra Delle Monache as choreographer and director. To Mendelssohn’s music with the ballet corp of the Teatro dell’Opera.
Turnpike 7 June
This 2019 choreography by Mauro Bigonzetti is to music by J.S Bach. It is a Teatro dell’Opera production with the ballet corp of the Teatro dell’Opera. Wanted in Rome • May 2021 | 41
FESTIVALS It is impossible to tell which festivals will continue this year and in what form, let alone with what programmes. The following is a very sketchy list of what we know so far.
FESTIVAL MAGGIO MUSICALE FIORENTINO 26 April-4 June
Now in its LXXXIII edition the festival continues proudly on, in line with all the covid-19 restrictions. One wonders how the Weiner and the St Petersburg orchestras are able to travel? 5, 9 May. Myung-Whun Chung conducts the Maggio Musical Fiorentino orchestra and chorus performing Mahler's Resurrection Symphony.
La Traviata degli Specchi will be performed at the Macerata festival in July.
10 May. Riccardo Muti with the Weiner Philarmoniker performs music by Mendelssohn, Schumann and Brahms. 12-13 May. La Principessa di Gelo inspired by Puccini's opera Turandot with Elina Ratina as Turandot, Rasolia Cid/Francesca Longari as Liù, Angelo Fiore as Calaf. 23 May. Yuri Temirkanov conducts the St Peterburg's Filarmonica performing music by Ljadov, Rachmaninov and Tchaikovsky. 4 June-20 June. La Forza del Destina by Giuseppe Verdi. Zubin Mehta conducts the orchestra and chorus in this new production of Verdi's opera, which was first performed in St Peterburg in 1862. The director is Carlus Padrissa, the founding member of Barcelona's La Fura dels Baus and its artistic director.
MACERATA OPERA FESTIVAL 25 July-13 Aug
La Traviata by Giuseppe Verdi will be performed at the Arena Sferisterio on 25 and 31 July and 8 and 13 Aug. The conductor is Paolo Bortolameolli. This is the Henning Brockhaus and Josef Svoboda Traviata degli Specchi production which was first performed at Macerata in 1992 and has returned several times since. As its name suggests the use of mirrors and reflections are vital to
LECTURES ONLINE
Lezioni di Letteratura. 12 weeks of lectures (in Italian) covering great works of literature. Massimo Cacciari on Machiavelli on 5 May: Nadia Fusini on Shakespeare's The Tempest 12 May: Nicola Lagioia on Truman Capote's In Cold Blood 19 May: Gustavo Zagrebelsky talks to Paolo Di
42 | May 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Paolo on The Brothers Karamazoon 26 May. For details see website www.auditoriumplus.com. La Presa del Potere. The last three in this series of lectures cover Mao Zedong on 2 May, Gamal Nasser on 9 May and Fidel Castro on 16
its message. As Brockhaus explained in 2018, when this version was last performed at Macerata: “il mio teatro e simbolico perché il realismo non combacia con la musica...Il teatro ha un linguaggio nascosto che è simile ai sogni: la ragione non regge.”
RAVENNA FESTIVAL
There are currently no dates and no programme for the festival, which in normal times continues all summer with opera, dance and theatre productions among the main events. One can take a guess that Dante, on the 700th anniversary of his death in Ravenna will feature as a large part of the programming of new works and events. For starters the Alighieri Theatre in Ravenna will be lit up in pink on the evening of 20 May to signal the start of the Dante stage (the 13th stage) of the Giro d'Italia the next day, the 197 km from Ravenna to Verona. The maglia rosa of the Giro d'Italia is awarded to the overall winner of the cycling classic. This year the Giro d'Italia is scheduled from 8-30 May.
ROMA SUMMER FEST 24 June-6 Aug
The programme is still in the making but events will beheld in the outdoor Cavea. For updates check auditorium website, www.auditorium.com.
May, For details see website www. auditoriumplus.com. All are available on Audiorium Plus, the digital channel of the the Auditorium Parco della Musica. Some lectures are free, others for a small charge.
Wanted in Rome • May 2021 | 43
lassical lassical
The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city. The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city. There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums. Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All
concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica. Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza,
Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone 32a, RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome.
often concerts, festivals and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com
Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and7 the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards. Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com | Jan 2019 • Wanted Rome 50 |48 Oct 2018 • Wanted in in Rome
MUSIC MUSIC THEATR THEATRE CINEMA CINEMA VENUES VENUES
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MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA
c
inema inema
The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wantedshow in Rome website for The following cinemas movies in English weekly updates. or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for Adriano, Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 weeklyPiazza updates. Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 0686391361 Barberini, Piazza BarberiniMastroianni 24-26, 1, tel. Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello 0686391361 tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it
Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 068553485 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 068553485 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 066861068 Odeon, Piazza Stefano 22, tel. Nuovo Sacher, LargoJacini Ascianghi 1, 0686391361 tel. 065818116
Space Moderno, Piazza della 44, tel. Odeon, Piazza Stefano JaciniRepubblica 22, tel. 0686391361 06892111 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec06892111 chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Wanted in Rome • May 2021 | 45
ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance
Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it
pera
Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
op
ock
Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.
Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it
Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,
t
Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it
heatre heatre
Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net 50 | Jan 2019 • Wanted in Rome
Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel. 14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Wanted Rome • May 2021 | 47 51 | Octin2018 • Wanted in Rome
38
Wanted in Rome | December 2017
An Education for Life that will make the difference
Castelli International School
International Elementary and Middle School
www.castelli-international.it
50 | May 2021 • Wanted in Rome
agorski
By Kate Z
OLIVE ASCOLANE The most famous culinary export from the town of Ascoli Piceno in the region of Le Marche, these stuffed, fried olives are eaten as a snack or appetiser throughout Italy. The recipe, which sees plump green olives stuffed with a meat-based filling before being coated in breadcrumbs and deep fried, is thought to have been invented in the 18th century by the cooks of the noble Marchigiano families who needed ways to utilise leftover meat. While making olive ascolane at home is a lengthy procedure and can look a bit intimidating, the recipe is broken down into simple steps, almost all of whice can be done in advance. Although traditionally the olives would be pitted by hand, cutting around the pit in a spiral and then re-forming the shape around the filling, this version uses a simplified method by using ready-pitted olives and sandwiching the filling between two halves. Even if you prepare and coat the olives in advance, be sure to leave the frying to the last minute; nothing can beat the taste when they are eaten hot, crispy and golden.
Ingredients Makes 30 30 large pitted green olives 100g flour 1 egg, beaten 100g fine breadcrumbs Vegetable oil, for frying Salt
FOR THE FILLING: 100g beef rump 100g pork loin 100g chicken breast ½ onion ½ carrot ½ celery stalk
125ml dry white wine 1 egg, beaten 75g grated parmesan 30g breadcrumbs 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil Juice of ½ lemon Nutmeg
Begin by making the filling. Heat the olive oil in a frying pan, finely chop the onion, carrot and celery and add to the pan. Cook for about 5 minutes until beginning to soften. Chop the beef, pork and chicken into small pieces and add to the pan, cook for 4-5 mins until lightly browned. Add the white wine, bring to the boil and simmer for 10 minutes until the alcohol has evaporated and the liquid has reduced. Remove from the heat, leave to cool and then blend in a food processor until you have a paste. Put the mixture into a bowl along with the beaten egg, breadcrumbs, parmesan, lemon juice and a generous grating of nutmeg. Stir everything together and then put in the fridge to cool for at least 30 minutes. Once the mixture is cold you can begin to stuff and coat the olives. Prepare three separate bowls with the flour, beaten egg and fine breadcrumbs, and line a tray with baking paper. Slice each olive in half lengthways, fill one half with the meat mixture then put the two halves back together. Coat the olive with flour, dip in the beaten egg and then roll in the breadcrumbs until completely covered. Place on the baking paper ready for frying. Continue until all of the olives are filled and crumbed. At this point you can keep the olives in the fridge until you are ready to fry them. To cook, pour plenty of vegetable oil into a wide saucepan and heat until boiling (test with a wooden toothpick, if the oil bubbles it is hot enough). Carefully add the olives in batches, cooking each one for about 4-5 minutes, moving them around frequently to ensure an even colour. Use a slotted spoon to remove from the oil and drain on kitchen paper. Sprinkle with salt and serve while they are still hot.
The best cheap seafood in rome It’s difficult to dine out on a delicious fish supper without breaking the bank, which is why we have put together this list of five small osterie and trattorie that serve high quality and fairly priced fish dishes. S. LORENZO DA FRANCO AR VICOLETTO At Franco al Vicoletto in S. Lorenzo you can enjoy simple fresh fish dishes. There’s a set menu costing between €25 to €30 or you can order from the à la carte menu. The ‘Tiberio’ menu starting at €25 includes a mixed seafood salad, sautéed mussels and clams, fried vegetables and anchovies with octopus, a mixed fish grill, lemon sorbet and a quarter of a litre of house wine. TRASTEVERE PEPPO AL COSIMATO Peppo al Cosimato serves traditional peasant fish recipes. The eatery opened on Via Natale del Grande in 2017 under the former owners of Caffè Perù. Among the dishes on offer, you can enjoy bruschette with marinated anchovies and mackerel (€3), lasagne with cuttlefish (€10), and the catch of the day (€14). It’s a large restaurant with an outdoor terrace.
PIGNETO LA SANTERIA DI MARE This locally named ‘pizzicheria di pesce' (fish delicatessen) in Pigneto has a laid back, retro feel. We highly recommend the fish pagnotelle (small round loaves) for €10 and the greater amberjack fish alla cacciatore for €12. TORMARANCIA LA VONGOLA VORACE This small trattoria serving fish in Tormarancia offers, among many dishes, a fish trio (panzanella salad with shell fish, cured salmon and marinated anchovies) and pici (pasta) with clams for €10. APPIO AND BARBERINI LA PESCERIA RE DI ROMA E BARBERINI This fantastic fishmonger has both a small restaurant and a street food stall. You choose your preferred fish at the bar and then sit down to eat. The spaghetti alle vongole for €12.50, fried calamari for €10.50 and fish balls for €9.50 come highly recommended.
www.puntarellarossa.it
La Santeria di Mare, Via Del Pigneto 209, tel. 0689230730. Peppo al Cosimato, Via Natale del Grande 9, tel. 065812048. La Vongola Vorace, Largo Luigi Antonelli 15, tel. 0631055314. La Pesceria Re di Roma, Via Appia 234, tel. 3938834361. La Pesceria Barberini, Via di S. Nicola da Tolentino 23, tel. 0642903789.
Indirizzi
Da Franco Ar Vicoletto, Via Dei Falisci 2, tel. 064957675.
Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com
International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com
Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it
Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com
Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)
54 | May 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30
RICERCA E SELEZIONE DEL PERSONALE Un team di consulenti motivati e altamente qualificati con pluriennale esperienza e certificato know-how, individuano e selezionano candidati ideali in ruoli di prestigio all’interno di una vasta gamma di settori e di aziende.
RESEARCH AND SELECTION OF STAFF A team of highly motivated and qualified consultants, with many years of experience and certified know-how behind them, identify and select the best possible candidates to cover all required roles within a structure.
Via Germanico, 172 00192 Roma (+39) 06 8392 5480
Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00
Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680
Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it
56 | May 2021 • Wanted in Rome
St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022
Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606
Emergency numbers • • • • • • •
Ambulance tel. 118 Carabinieri tel. 112 Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 Fire brigade tel. 115 Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 Police tel. 113 Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355
Prince Jonathan Doria Pamphilj and Sir Ivor Roberts, Chair of the Keats-Shelley Memorial Association request the pleasure of your company
at a Champagne Reception, Gala Supper and Evening of Drama and Music; with an exclusive Tour of the Palazzo's Galleries and a production of "Life is but a Day" a celebration of Keats in his own words by Angus Graham-Campbell on behalf of the KSMA and Keats-Shelley 200
On Saturday 12th June 2021 at 7 p.m. Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, Rome Dress code: Smart/ Black Tie optional Ticket price: € 450
RSVP: info@keats-shelley-house.org