Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 13, Numero 10 NOVEMBER 2021 | € 2,00
THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME
WHAT'S+
ON
WHERE TO GO IN ROME
ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS
0 0 0 1 0
CONT
EDITORIALS
FORMER ROME MAYOR IGNAZIO MARINO Marco Venturini
8. HOW BREXIT AFFECTS
UK NATIONALS LIVING IN ITALY Caitlin Frost
14. A Tourist's GUIDE TO ITALY'S GREEN PASS Mary Wilsey
WHAT'S ON
18. LAKES AROUND ROME 20. ROME FOR children 22. STREET ART guide 24. MUSEUMS 26. ART GALLERIES 42. CULTURAL VENUES 47. RECIPE 48. puntarella rossa 50. USEFUL NUMBERS
DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 PROGETTO GRAFICO: Dali Studio Srl IMPAGINAZIONE: Simona Castellari STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 31/10/2021
32. EXHIBITIONS 34. ART news 36. OPERA 38. Classical 40. Dance
CURRENTLY SUSPENDED
THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME
Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 13, Numero 10 NOVEMBER 2021 | € 2,00
4. INTERVIEW WITH
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WHAT'S+
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WHERE TO GO IN ROME ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS
About Ponny, Venezia From exhibition Art makes you travel again Curated by Edoardo Marcenaro at Rosso20sette arte contemporanea, Via del Sudario 39, until 23 December.
ENTS 4
INTERVIEW WITH FORMER ROME MAYOR IGNAZIO MARINO
14
32
A Tourist's GUIDE TO ITALY'S GREEN PASS
EXHIBITIONS
38 classical
Politics
INTERVIEW WITH FORMER ROME MAYOR IGNAZIO MARINO WANTED IN ROME TALKS TO IGNAZIO MARINO, WHO WAS THE CENTRE-LEFT MAYOR OF ROME FROM 2013-2015 AND IS NOW PROFESSOR OF SURGERY AT THOMAS JEFFERSON UNIVERSITY IN PHILADEPHIA Marco Venturini
W
hat are your views about the recent electoral campaign for the mayor of Rome and what is your opinion about the winner, Roberto Gualtieri? I followed the electoral campaign from abroad, and criticised the general vagueness of the candidates. A few weeks before the vote, with the sole exception of Carlo Calenda [leader of
the liberal centrist Azione party], they only had generic programmes lacking in detail. Another serious shortcoming was the public debate between the candidates. At the end of September, a Rome newspaper published a letter from me to the candidates in which I listed what, for me, remain the five priorities for building the Rome of the future. Six years after the end of my time as mayor, it was interesting to read how almost all of the aspiring mayors were in full agreement with my programme for the city. Unfortunately, many in the election campaign make promises that they don’t keep. In 2013, when I was elected mayor with a large majority, 64 per cent of the votes, I was committed to consistently implementing everything I had proposed, starting with the pedestrianisation of many central areas (Fori Imperiali and Piazza di Spagna), the closure of the landfill at Malagrotta, and doubling the amount of recycled waste collection in the city. As for a judgment on the newly elected mayor, I think it is right and necessary to wait at least six months to evaluate his work. I hope that he thinks about the good of the citizens and the competance of the councillors.
Transplant surgeon Ignazio Marino has returned to his academic work following his tenure as Rome mayor.
4 | November 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Recently the outgoing mayor Virginia Raggi apologised for some comments that she made about you when she was mayor. What do you
Politics
Ignazio Marino was mayor of Rome from 2013 to 2015.
think about this and what is your opinion on the outgoing administration? I sincerely appreciate the public and repeated apologies of Virginia Raggi. This step of hers, by no means taken for granted, means that we can open a dialogue. She is a strong woman who has accumulated considerable experience after five years as mayor. I was the first to criticise many of her choices in the city government (for example the management of municipal pharmacies, her choice in terms of the Olympics, the wrong assignments for the heads of the administration), but I appreciate her gesture and I wish her well. What does Rome need and what are the city's main problems? In my opinion the mayor of Rome should concentrate on the main strategic points: transport, waste, security, urban design and archaeology. Unfortunately, in order for the mayor to be able to make autonomous decisions, changes are necessary in many areas, because at the moment some laws actually prevent the mayor from doing so, because they come under the authority of the region or the central government.
In addition, there has always been a lack of legislation to give Rome special status and funding to fulfill its role as the capital of Italy – as happens in Paris, London and many other European capitals. Will the new city council meet the challenge? At the moment, it seems that the first thing is to find an internal agreement among the various groups that contributed to the election of the mayor. This is understandable because these groups haven’t had power in the last eight years and now wish to exercise it. I do not judge but I do hope that they try to exercise power as a verb (to be able to do, to be able to change, to be able to innovate), and not as a noun (to hold power). What actions should be put in immediately, in the first 100 days?
place
I think it is important to send at least one strong signal of discontinuity with respect to the previous city government. I closed Malagrotta and pedestrianised Via dei Fori Imperiali – actions that I knew were very controversial but were part of my electoral programme. Today, years later, the appropriateness of those decisions is widely recognised even by the detractors of that time. Wanted in Rome • November 2021 | 5
Politics
Marino's successor Virginia Raggi has been replaced as mayor by Roberto Gualtieri.
Have you ever thought of going back to being mayor? No, I am very happy with my new life and activities in Philadelphia. I am involved in international projects for Thomas Jefferson University and I have rediscovered the joy and enthusiasm of working with a team that not only doesn’t work against you, but supports you to achieve positive results. Are the every day problems that Rome has to face only the result of bad administration or are they also the responsibility of the Romans? The Romans are an extraordinary people, with good and bad chatacteristics. Their irreverent sympathy is often a double-edged sword: it helps them overcome every tragedy but sometimes prevents them from growing. I adore them, but I think that we must work, for example with children in schools, to nurture care for the environment and respect and knowledge of our own surroundings, which are unique and precious. I believe that the mayor must administer but also cultivate an idea of the city of the future, and to do this he must involve children. Let’s think of a child who today is six or seven years old and has just begun their school career. If the mayor were actively to involve these children in 6 | November 2021 • Wanted in Rome
choices within the schools themselves, in ten years’ time we would have young people able to participate in the wider choices of society. You moved to live in Philadelphia where you work with enormous success. Do you often return to Rome? What are your ties and projects with the city? I return to Rome regularly, both for work and to see my mother Valeria, who is 99, my sisters and some of my best friends from my high school and college years. On a professional level, I am very happy with the close collaboration between Thomas Jefferson University and my alma mater, Università Cattolica and Policlinico Gemelli, which remain international centres of excellence. We have developed a programme together that allows the best students to train for three years in Rome and three years in Philadelphia, obtaining a double degree that allows them to specialise wherever they want, in Europe or in the USA. We are also conducting several clinical trials together. It’s good for Rome and for Italy but also for Thomas Jefferson University. We are a significant reality with 18 hospitals and one of the oldest medical faculties in the USA, but Policlinico Gemelli is not to be underestimated: recently Newsweek ranked it as the best hospital in Italy and number 45 in the world.
Politics
HOW BREXIT AFFECTS UK NATIONALS LIVING IN ITALY THE BRITISH CONSULATE IN MILAN, REPRESENTED BY CATRIONA GRAHAM, HOSTED A Q&A EVENT IN MILAN FOR UK NATIONALS TO DISCUSS AND PROVIDE CLARITY ABOUT THEIR RIGHTS IN ITALY AFTER BREXIT Caitlin Frost
I
n an interview with Wanted in Rome the Consul General answered the most frequently asked questions from a series of in-person and online meetings, and underlined the importance of requesting the new residency card. How does the UK’s withdrawal from the EU affect the status of UK citizens living in Italy? If you were lawfully living in Italy before 1 January 2021, your rights are automatically protected under the Withdrawal Agreement. You continue to have broadly the same rights to live, work, study and access benefits and services as you had before Brexit. And your close family members can join you in Italy at any time in the future. You have these rights even if you do not hold the new carta di soggiorno elettronica (biometric residency card) issued by Italy under the Withdrawal Agreement. But we still recommend you ask for the carta di soggiorno elettronica, because it provides the clearest evidence of your rights. What do UK nationals living in Italy need to do?
British Consul General in Milan Catriona Graham.
8 | November 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Italy implements the Withdrawal Agreement through a declaratory system. This means that if you were lawfully living in Italy before 1 January 2021, you automatically have rights under the Withdrawal Agreement.
Politics
You and your family members have the right to request a new residence document, the carta di soggiorno elettronica. and we strongly recommend that you do so. This card is a separate document to the biometric identity card (carta d’identita’), and is the best evidence you can obtain to show that you have the rights defined in the Withdrawal Agreement. It shows your right to enter Italy and exempts you from European Travel Information and Authorisation System (ETIAS) and visa requirements. You should also check you are correctly registered for healthcare if you are eligible. And you should obtain an Italian driving licence if you are a resident in Italy. Who can apply for residency status? If you were settled in Italy before 1 January 2021 your rights are covered by the Withdrawal Agreement. You should now obtain the new carta di soggiorno elettronica from your local questura. If you are already registered as a resident with your town hall (comune) you don’t need to do anything further with the town hall unless you move your primary address.
If you are a UK national wishing to settle in Italy after 1 January 2021 you may well need a visa to move here. On arrival in Italy you will then need to request a non-EU national residency permit (permesso di soggiorno) within 8 days of arriving. You can request this from your local questura (immigration office). Once you have the permesso or a receipt of application you can use this to register your residency with your local town hall. You can find more information on how to apply for a non-EU national visa on the Italian Ministry of Foreign Affairs website. www.esteri.it. I am a UK national married to an EU citizen. Do I need to hold residency status? Everyone intending to settle in Italy for longer than 90 days needs to register their residency with the local town hall including UK nationals married to an EU citizen. If you were registered as a resident before 1 January 2021 you should now obtain the new carta di soggiorno elettronica from your local questura. This is issued under the Withdrawal Agreement and is evidence of your rights under the Agreement. You should request this even Wanted in Rome • November 2021 | 9
Politics if you are married to an Italian national, for example. You should ensure you are correctly registered as a resident in Italy if you are settled here. How do the changes affect UK nationals’ right to healthcare? If you were living in Italy before 1 January 2021 you retain your rights to healthcare here as long as you remain covered by the Withdrawal Agreement. You can read further guidance in our Living in Italy guide, (www.gov.uk/guidance/ living-in-italy). It includes detailed information on how to register for healthcare in Italy. UK nationals living in Italy usually access the Italian health system in one of these ways: registering to use the Italian state health system using a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) or UK Global Health Insurance Card (GHIC) for temporary stays registering a UK-issued S1 form with the Italian health system As for all Italians, you have to pay to use parts of the healthcare system, although some parts are free. Under the EU-UK Trade and Cooperation Agreement if you move to or travel to Italy after 1 January this year your UK issued S1 or GHIC/ EHIC remains valid if you are eligible for one. Can UK nationals use their driver’s licence in Italy? You can use your valid UK licence until 31 December 2021. If you moved to Italy after 1 January 2021, you can use your valid UK licence for 12 months from the date you became resident If you live in Italy you should obtain an Italian licence. You will need to take a driving test. If you started exchanging your UK licence before 1 January 2021, you do not need to take a driving test. We continue to negotiate with the Italian government on the right to exchange a UK licence for an Italian one without the need to retake a driving test. 10 | November 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Catriona Graham was appointed British Consul General in Milan and Director of the Department for International Trade in Italy in October 2019.
It is our priority to reach an agreement before the end of the grace period – 31 December this year. Please continue to check our Living in Guide and our social media channels for updates and be sure to sign up for alerts to keep up to date. What do UK nationals need to know about visas for visiting Italy? What is the visa process for UK students studying in Italy? You are likely to need a visa if you are coming to Italy for longer than 90 days. You should check the information available on the Italian government’s website, www.governo.it. It has a dropdown menu so you can choose under which category you are planning to travel to Italy (employed, self-employed, student etc). The website provides information on what type
Politics
of visa you need to apply for as well as a link to the application form. For example for postgraduate students the website details what criteria will need to be met including evidence of accommodation in Italy, financial self-sufficiency, some form of health insurance and evidence of enrolment in an authorised postgraduate course. You should also contact your local Italian Consulate for more information. Are there any other important issues you are aware of for British nationals that have not already been mentioned? If you are a UK national covered by the Withdrawal Agreement you should always carry with you your new carta di soggiorno elettronica or other residency documentation when travelling. That’s because as someone who benefits from the Withdrawal Agreement you shouldn’t have your passport stamped when entering or exiting Italy. Our advice is to show border control your residency document even before you show them your identity document (i.e British passport). If your passport is stamped in error it will have no 12 | November 2021 • Wanted in Rome
impact on your rights in Italy. Your residency document negates the stamp and you should show evidence of your residency next time you travel. The embassy team have been running a programme of events for UK nationals such as campaigns across TV and printed media, a series of ‘How-to’ videos on social media and we continue to hold monthly online Q&A sessions as well as residency roadshows targeting different areas of Italy. These are announced on all our social media channels (Facebook) and on gov. uk and via the Embassy’s mailing list. You can sign up to our mailing list via our Living in Italy guide. Our ‘Living in Italy’ guide on GOV.UK provides further information and all other essential information for UK nationals in Italy. For questions concerning your rights as a British citizen in Italy you can contact us also via our Living in Italy guide. And you can check the ‘Living in Europe’ page on gov.uk for more information about your rights under the Withdrawal Agreement.
UK NATIONAL SETTLED IN ITALY BEFORE 1 JANUARY 2021? Make sure your residency in Italy is easily recognised. Request your new Carta di Soggiorno Elettronica from your local Questura as soon as possible. And don’t get confused…it isn’t the same thing as your electronic ID card. Find out more on gov.uk/livinginitaly
COVID-19
A TOURIST'S GUIDE TO ITALY'S GREEN PASS HOW TO GET A GREEN PASS IN ITALY IF YOU NEED ONE QUICKLY FOR ENTRY INTO A MUSEUM OR GALLERY Mary Wilsey
A
s political protests continue against the Green Pass, especially among lorry drivers in the north of Italy, here is what the ordinary tourist should do for trouble-free entry into the country’s museums and galleries. Although restaurants require a Green Pass if you are eating inside in a crowded space, there aren’t many that ask for proof that you are covid-free,
at least not while the good weather lasts and there are tables outside. But museums, galleries and archaeological sites do. The novice tourist may think that you can get a Green Pass just by waving proof of your vaccination certificate. It isn’t that simple. If you are an EU citizen or resident in Italy and registered with the health service you will be
The Green Pass is required for access to a wide range of services in Italy. Photo MikeDotta / Shutterstock.com.
14 | November 2021 • Wanted in Rome
able to find your way through. But it is a tough nut to crack for tourists. The very fact that there are organisations now advertising their services online to make it easy is proof enough that it’s not easy. Even if you manage to read through all the information, you still have to master the various apps, the QR codes and the uploads. So for tourists with little time to spare the pharmacy is the best way forward. Take a little time before you choose which one. The first grumpy chemist I approached just didn’t want to hear the word vaccinations. How could he possibly cope if he had to examine vaccination certificates from all over the world, he asked. He had a point, as he didn’t seem to have any magic digital system he could use. “Come back later for an antigen test”, he said. So after visits to three pharmacies here is a guide to what you should do. The key to it all is the antigen test (multiple flow test). This is your Green Pass to wherever you want to go, but only for 48 hours. If you haven’t managed to visit all the museums, archaeological sites and galleries you want to see in those two days you have to go back and start all over again. Almost all pharmacies are able to give you the test, but you will need to book your slot. Given that the certificate only lasts 48 hours it is best to get the test done as late as you can the day before you want to visit a site. You can then start out early the next morning with two full days ahead to cram in as much as you can. Once you have booked your test at the chemist of your choice (stay away from those near the main tourist sites) you will need to produce an identity document and provide an email address. In theory the results should be ready in about 30 minutes, but this will depend on the chemist and how busy it is. In one, close to Piazza Navona, there wasn’t a hope of getting anything done in a hurry. People were getting vaccinated, buying beauty products, handing in ordinary prescriptions and then lining up to pay at the only cash desk for all these services. Keeping a metre away from others, let alone two metres, simply wasn’t an option. In another pharmacy, off the main tourist beat, there was more space and the staff were delightfully helpful. “Just take a photo of our
The Green Pass is required to dine indoors in restaurants in Italy but not for consuming food or drink while standing at the bar. Photo MikeDotta / Shutterstock.com.
telephone number here” – said the gentlemannered pharmacist – “and you can phone us to make a booking when you are ready.” She even suggested the right timing to get the maximum museum-visiting time out of the 48 hours. When asked how many of the tests she did a day, the reply was 40 but she added that she also has to do the paper work and send off the results. Five an hour, in an 8-hour day, sounded a tough assignment and she admitted it was stressful. A swab and about two hours later and the only hitch in the process was downloading the digital file onto my Samsung phone. The file wouldn’t open. No worries, the chemist said when I phoned back to explain the dilemma. “We will print it out and have it ready for you to collect as soon as you can get here.” Armed with vaccination certificate and Green Pass I then decided to test the system. I offered the security guard at the Scuderie del Quirinale my vaccination certificate. “Where is your Green Pass,” she asked? “But here is my vaccination certificate,” I insisted. “No. Green Pass please,” she replied. Asked whether vaccination certificates really didn’t work, the guard reluctantly replied that they would “in the last resort.” With crowds already pushing up behind me to get into Rome’s blockbuster exhibition Inferno Wanted in Rome • November 2021 | 15
to mark the 700th anniversary of Dante’s death, I wasn’t going to argue. Out came my Green Pass and I was swept through to the ticket desk. Anxious to get the most of the 48 hours I rushed on afterwards to the All About Banksy exhibition at the Chiostro del Bramante near Piazza Navona. And the same request for the Green Pass was repeated all over again. Would I make the Damien Hirst Archaeology Now exhibition at Villa Borghese the following day? Other events took over and I never made it in time. So it will be back to the same chemist for another Green Pass, and another €20 to pay. The standard price is €15, but €5 for the helpful chemist’s fee seems the least she deserved. These are the official guidelines for the Green Pass according to the Ente Nazionale Italiano per il Turismo (ENIT). From 15 October until 31 December the Green Pass has also been extended to all work places. http://www.italia.it/en/useful-info/covid-19updates-information-for-tourists.html In Italy, the covid-19 green certificate facilitates attendance at certain public events (such as trade fairs, concerts, sports competitions, parties following religious or civil ceremonies) and access to healthcare facilities for the elderly (RSA). It is also mandatory when moving into and out of areas that may be classified as “red” or “orange” zones in the absence of valid reasons for work, health or proven urgency. Persons over the age of 12 must present a covid-19 digital green pass in order to access certain services and activities: • Travelling by air, train, ship, ferry or bus throughout Italy • Restaurants, bars, ice cream parlours and pastry shops for consumption at table indoors • Performances open to the public, sporting events, both outdoors and indoors • Museums and places of culture, shows • Swimming pools and gyms • Private parties, such as wedding receptions • Festivals and trade fairs • Conventions and congresses • Spas and fitness centres • Gaming halls and betting shops, bingo halls and casinos 16 | November 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Tamponi rapidi at Piazza di Spagna.
There is a subtle difference between the Green Pass, which is an Italian-issued document, and the EUDigital COVID Certificate, an EU certificate which recognises a series of covid vaccinations, mainly from the EU countries but also from Israel, the USA, Japan, Canada and the UK. The EU digital pass is only given 14 days after two vaccinations. The Green Pass is granted after an antigen test and lasts only 48 hours. It is not recognised for travel abroad although it is valid for travel between the Italian regions. The Green Pass seemed a good answer to the anti-vax lobbies but it is an expensive and timeconsuming alternative. Although vaccinations are free of charge the Green Pass costs €15 every 48 hours. Therefore opposition to vaccinations moved quickly to the Green Pass, turning into political street protests in favour of individual freedom and against the growth of digital surveillance by the state. Protests have been widespread in areas of the north where there is resentment against the concentration of political power in the capital, and in Rome and Naples where there is mistrust of the political class. It has united both neofascists on the far right and anarchists on the far left, particularly in Milan, Trieste and Rome where there have been violent street protests for the first time in years.
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LAGO DI ALBANO This volcanic crater lake presents visitors with beautiful views of its clear water and surrounding forests. The picturesque towns along the shores serve as popular summer resort areas for Romans, including Castel Gandolfo, home to the summer papal palace whose gardens were recently opened to the public. On the other side of the lake is Palazzolo, a villa bought by Rome’s Venerable English College in 1920 and now open to guests. The towns surrounding the lake are known for their restaurants, shops and fruit farms. Swimming, fishing and boating are among the favourite activities for visitors, and the lake’s beach is located on the western shore. A simple 45-minute train ride from Termini, visitors can reach Lago Albano by taking the FL4 train towards Albano Laziale and getting off at the Castel Gandolfo stop.
around rome LAGO DI NEMI Lago di Nemi is a small and unique volcanic lake where divers in the 19th century discovered two large ships built for the notorious Roman emperor Caligula at the bottom of the lake, filled withbottom of the lake, filled with artworks and treasures. Replicas of the ships along with other artefacts are on display at the nearby Museum of Roman Ships. Travellers can also visit the natural caves around the lake, which were a favourite haunt of 19th-century foreign artists such as Turner. Nemi is associated with the cult of the Roman goddess Diana, and, for the last 80 years, an annual strawberry festival. Visitors can reach the lake by taking the SS7 Appia southbound as far as Genzano, and then following signs for Nemi. LAGO DI VICO Formed by the volcanic activity of Mount Venus, Lago di Vico offers a unique geological backdrop set amid lush woodland and hills. The surrounding nature reserve is a haven for wildlife, but what is most characteristic of the area are the hazel and chestnut plantations. Lakeside campsites and hotels offer swimming, sailing and horse riding. The two towns worth a visit are Ronciglione and Caprarola with its magnificent and recently restored Villa Farnese. Lago di Vico is a 90-minute drive from Rome taking the SS2 Cassia, and turning north at Sutri.
18 | November 2021 • Wanted in Rome
LAGO DI BOLSENA Located on the site of the Vulsini volcano, dormant since about 100 BC, this crater lake has two islands and is surrounded by rolling hills and vegetation. The area around Montefisascone on the southeast shore of the lake is famous for its Est! Est!! Est!!! wine. The town of Bolsena in the northeast is a popular tourist resort in summer and it is here that the famous so-called Eucharistic Miracle took place in 1263 when a Bohemian priest is said to have seen blood coming from the host that he had just consecrated at Mass. Capodimonte on the southwest of the lake is also worth a visit. The lakeside area provides activities for sports and nature enthusiasts all year round. The best way to reach Lago di Bolsena from Rome is by car, as buses to Bolsena from Termini Station are infrequent. LAGO DI BRACCIANO Just north-west of Rome along the Via Cassia, Lake Bracciano is one of the most easily accessible lakes for Romans. The ban on motor boats (except for a little ferry) means it remains an ideal spot for swimming, sailing and canoeing. The Lega Navale operates a dinghy sailing school in Anguillara. Churches and historic sites are located in the three small towns around the lake: Bracciano, Trevignano and Anguillara. There are also places for camping and horse riding tours by the lake, which is just an hour on the Viterbo train line from Rome’s Ostiense station. The lake is overlooked by the 15th-century Orsini-Odescalchi castle in Bracciano, often chosen as the venue for jet-set weddings, and there is also an air force museum at nearby Vigna di Valle. LAGO DI MARTIGNANO This tiny volcanic lake just to the east of Lake Bracciano offers clean water and beaches with scenic views of the surrounding meadows and wildlife. Lago di Martignano is known for its outdoor activities such as horse riding, hiking, mountain biking and swimming. Umbrellas, loungers and luggage storage are available to rent along with canoes, sailboats and windsurfing equipment. It is also known for the hot sulphurous springs surrounding the lake. Arriving at Lago di Martignano by car is the easiest option. Reaching the lake by public transport involves taking the FM3 train to Cesano and opting for either a local bus or taxi.
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ARTandSEEK Please note that not all of these activites English-language culturaldue workshops visits to are currently open, to theand covid-19 museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For crisis. It is advisable to check websites event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforfor visiting details and make reservation kids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandsebefore going. ekforkids.com. Bioparco Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and offers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it. Bowling Silvestri This sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.
20 | November 2021 • Wanted in Rome
There are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com. Casa del Parco Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com. Casina di Raffaello Play centre in Villa Borghese offering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Raffaello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadiraffaello.it.
Cinecittà World This 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special effects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it. Climbing Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, Thurs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473. Explora The 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it. Go-karting Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it. Gymboree This children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, offering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it. Hortis Urbis Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it. Il Nido Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.
Luneur Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it. Rainbow Magicland The 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it. Time Elevator A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. The time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it. Zoomarine This amusement and aquatic park outside Rome offers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.
Wanted in Rome • November 2021 | 21
Rome’s artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant importantstreet street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre. Here is where to is find Rome’s mainthe street artstreet projects murals. from the centre. Here where to find main artand projects and murals around Rome. Esquilino Esquilino Murals Murals byby Alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Pistone, Nicola Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, Diamond. PiazzaMafredo Manfredo Fanti 47. Piazza Fanti 47.
Marconi Marconi The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artistSeth Seth is located in a street artist is located in a former former soap factory Via Antonio soap factory on Viaon Antonio AvogaAvogadro, opposite dro, opposite Ostiense'sOstiense’s landmark Gasometro. For For details see landmark Gasometro. details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com.
Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz Metropoliz This This former former meat meat factory factory inin the the outskirts of Rome is nowa astreet street outskirts of Rome is now art art museumasaswell well as as being museum being home hometoto some200 200squatting squatters,migrants. many of The them some migrants. The Museo dell’Altrodi e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altroveor diMAAM, Metropoliz, or MAAM, Metropoliz, is only open is only open on Saturdays, and on Saturdays, and features the work features the work of more than 300 of more than 300 artists including artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Edoardo Kobra, and GioDiamond. Pistone, Pistone, Sten&Lex See Sten&Lex, Pablo Echaurren and MAAM Facebook page for details. Borondo. See MAAM Via Prenestina 913. Facebook page for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense Ostiense Fronte Del by by Blu.Blu. Via Via del Porto Fronte Del Porto Porto del Fluviale. Porto Fluviale. Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Fluviale. Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Magazzini Shelley by Generali. Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense. Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Pigneto Ostiense. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Pigneto Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.
22 | November 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi. Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Fortebraccio. 2501 mural on Via Blu Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Francesco Baracca. Francesco Baracca. Prati Prati Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo Nuovo Mercato Trionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria. Andrea Doria. theSabotino. bear by Daniza the bear byDaniza ROA. Via ROA. Via Sabotino. Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Magee. Via Via The by Fintan Cristoforo Numai. Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals andand Gio Tunnel muralsby byMr MrTHOMS THOMS Pistone. Via Decio Mure.Mure. Gio Pistone. Via Decio Nido di di Vespe ViaVia del Nido VespebybyLucamaleonte. Lucamaleonte. Monte del Grano. del Monte del Grano. Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89. Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by byBlu. Blu.Via ViaCiciliano Ciciliano and and Via Via Murals Palombini (Casal Palombini (Casaldè dèPazzi). Pazzi). Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station. Metro B station. S.S. Basilio Basilio SanBa SanBa features features large-scale large-scale works on on the façades façades of in the of social-housing social-housingblocks blocks the disadvantaged north-east suburb of in the disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerasuburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. tion project includes works by Italian The project artistsregeneration Agostino Iacurci, Hitnesincludes and Blu works by Italian artists alongside Spain's Liqen. ViaAgostino Maiolati, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Spain’s Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, S. Giovanni Via Treia. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S. Giovanni Apulia corner of Via Farsalo. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.
It’s aa New NewDay Daybyby Alice Pasquini. It’s Alice Pasquini. Via Via Anton Ludovico. Anton Ludovico. S. Lorenzo S. Lorenzo Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Feminicide mural by Elisa Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo. Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi. Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Mural by by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Via Aquilonia. Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia. S. Pietro S. Pietro Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S. di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo. Gallo. Testaccio Testaccio Hunted byby ROA. ViaVia Galvani. HuntedWolf Wolf ROA. Galvani. #KindComments by by Alice Pasquini, Via #KindComments Alice Pasquini, Volta, Testaccio market. Via Volta, Testaccio market. Tor Pignattara Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via ViaAntonio AntonioTempesta. Tempesta. Dulk. Etnik.Via ViaBartolomeo Bartolomeo Perestrello Etnik. Perestrello 51. 51. Coffee Break Etam Cru. Via Coffee Break by Etamby Cru. Via Ludovico Pavoni. Ludovico Pavoni. Tom by Jef Via Gabrio TomSawyer Sawyer by Aerosol. Jef Aerosol. Via Serbelloni. Gabrio Serbelloni. Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema PasoliniVia by Acqua Diavù.Bullicante. Former Cinema Impero, Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Alessi. Herakut. Capua 14. GaleazzoVia Alessi. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Herakut. Via Capua 14. Oddi 6. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia Tor Big Marancia The City Life scheme features 14-m The Big City Life scheme tall murals by 22 Italian and features interna14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and tional street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia andartists Jerico.including The idea international street was to transform area's of Mr Klevra, Seth,the Gaia andblocks Jerico. flats into an open-air art museum. Via The idea was to transform the area’s Tor Marancia. www.bigcity.life.it. blocks of flats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.
Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth. Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.
Wanted in Rome • November 2021 | 23
ROME'S MAJOR
MUSEUMS PLEASE NOTE THAT NOT ALL OF THESE MUSEUMS ARE CURRENTLY OPEN, DUE TO THE COVID-19 CRISIS. IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS AND MAKE RESERVATION BEFORE GOING.
VATICAN MUSEUMS
Crypta Balbi
Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.
Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia
Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums
Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.
STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian
Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.
Borghese Museum
Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.
Castel S. Angelo Museum
Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine
Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.
24 | November 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian. Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.
MAXXI
Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.
Palazzo Corsini
Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.
Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale
Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.
Palazzo Altemps
Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.
Palazzo Barberini
Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme
Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.
Villa Farnesina
Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.
PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe
CITY MUSEUMS
Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.
Centrale Montemartini
Chiostro Del Bramante
Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.
Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.
Capitoline Museums
Doria Pamphilj Gallery
Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna
Galleria Colonna
Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.
MACRO Asilo
Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space until the end of 2019. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.
Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.
MATTATOIO
Giorgio de Chirico House Museum
Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.
Museo Barracco
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.
Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi
Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.
Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.
Keats-Shelley House
Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.
Museo storico della Liberazione
Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets
Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.
Museo Canonica
Palazzo Merulana
Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).
Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.
Museo Napoleonico
Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.
Wanted in Rome • November 2021 | 25
PLEASE NOTE THAT NOT ALL OF THESE GALLERIES ARE CURRENTLY OPEN, DUE TO THE COVID-19 CRISIS. IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS AND TO MAKE RESERVATION BEFORE GOING.
ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY
ART GALLERIES
1/9 Unosunove
1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.
A.A.M. Architettura
Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ff-maam.it.
Contemporary Cluster
Visual art, design, architecture, fashion design and beauty apothecary in a 17th-century palace. Via dei Barbieri 7, tel. 0668805928, www.contemporarycluster.com.
C.R.E.T.A.
Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Delfini, Via dei Delfini 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.
Dorothy Circus Gallery
Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.
Ex Elettrofonica
This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.
Fondazione Memmo
Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.
Fondazione Pastificio Cerere
This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.
Fondazione Volume!
The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.
26 | November 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Franz Paludetto
Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.
Frutta
This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.
Gagosian Gallery
The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.
GALLA
Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at affordable prices by artists working in various fields. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.
Galleria Alessandro Bonomo
Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.
Galleria Valentina Bonomo
Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.
Galleria Frammenti D’Arte
Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.
Galleria Lorcan O’Neill
High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.
Galleria della Tartaruga
Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.
Galleria Il Segno
Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.
Wanted in Rome • November 2021 | 27
MAXXI amazes you, always art
architecture design photography cinema
28 | November 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Galleria Mucciaccia
Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.
Galleria Russo
Operativa Arte Contemporanea
A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.
Pian de Giullari
This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.
Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.
Galleria Varsi
Plus Arte Puls
A dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di Grotta Pinta 38, tel. 066865415, www.galleriavarsi.it.
Gavin Brown's Enterprise
New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.
Il Ponte Contemporanea
Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.
RvB ARTS
Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.
Sala 1
Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.
This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.
La Nuova Pesa
S.T. Foto libreria galleria
Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.
MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea
Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.
Magazzino d’Arte Moderna
Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.
Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.
Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri
The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.
T293
Monitor
The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.
Nero Gallery
The Gallery Apart
Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.
This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.
Nomas Foundation
TraleVolte
This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.
Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.
Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.
White Noise Gallery
Based in the S. Lorenzo district, this gallery exhibits unconventional work by young Italian and international artists. Via della Seggiola 9, tel. 066832833, www.whitenoisegallery.it.
Wunderkammern
This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.
Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin
Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it. Wanted in Rome • November 2021 | 29
where to go in Rome
WHAT’S ON Judith I (detail) by Gustav Klimt at Palazzo Braschi, see page 32.
Wanted in Rome • November 2021 | 31
EXHIBITIONS Museums and archaeological sites in Rome, including the Vatican Museums, are open only to visitors with the covid Green Pass or its equivalent. Most venues require advance booking and the wearing of masks is obligatory. Weekend visits to the more popular sites such as the Colosseum and the Pantheon must be booked at least one day ahead. For visiting details check websites in advance.
CY TWOMBLY: SOUVENIRS OF TIME 30 OCT-13 NOV
The Gagosian Gallery presents an exhibition of photographs by Cy Twombly, the celebrated American painter who died in Rome in 2011. The show features photographs taken by Twombly throughout his career of his studios and domestic interiors and of classical sculptures. The images span a 60-year period between the US and Italy, chronicling locations central to the artist’s life and work, from the 1950s through the 2000s, including his ateliers in Rome,
Bassano in Teverina and Gaeta. The gallery says the images also show his paintings and sculpture in varying states of completion, offering insights into his working process. Gagosian Gallery, Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www.gagosian.com.
KLIMT: LA SECESSIONE E L’ITALIA 27 OCT-27 MARCH
Palazzo Braschi presents an exhibition of paintings by Gustav Klimt, including Portrait of a Lady, which went missing for almost 23 years after its theft from a gallery in Piacenza. The painting was stolen in 1997 before being rediscovered in the gallery’s garden, in mysterious circumstances, in 2019. The works on show feature some of the Austrian artist’s masterpieces from the Belvedere Museum in Vienna, the Klimt Foundation and public and private collections such as the Neue Galerie Graz. Highlights among the paintings, sculptures and drawings on display include Judith I, Lady in White, Friends I (The Sisters), Amalie Zuckerkandl and The Bride. The fivemonth exhibition will focus on the artist’s relationship with Italy and the influence he had on other artists working in the country. Museo di Roma, Piazza Navona 2, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it.
INFERNO
15 OCT-9 JAN
Cy Twombly photos at the Gagosian.
The Scuderie del Quirinale marks the 700th anniversary of the death of Dante Alighieri with an exhibition based on the first book of The Divine Comedy. The show comprises more than 200 artworks on loan from 80 museums, public collections and private collections from Italy, the Vatican and across Europe. Inferno documents hell-related iconography from the Middle Ages to the present day, in what is hailed as the first major art exhibition dedicated to this theme. Curated by Jean Clair, the show will take visitors on a terrifying visual journey into the depths of hell, as imagined by artists through the
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Portrait of a Lady by Klimt at Museo di Roma.
centuries, accompanied by the words of Dante. These visions range from the tormented and nightmarish to the romanticised, from Mediaeval to Baroque, up to psychoanalytic interpretations from the 20th century. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 16, www.scuderiequirinale.it.
TOKUHIRO KAWAI AND JEFFREY CHONG WANG 16 OCT-16 NOV
Dorothy Circus, a prominent gallery specialising in international popsurrealist art, presents a double exhibition by two artists: Beijingraised and Canada-based Jeffrey Chong Wang and Japan’s Tokuhiro Kawai. The gallery says that Kawai draws from classical Renaissance themes to elaborate surreal fairytales while Chong Wang gains inspiration from Romanticism to create cinematographic reflections. Dorothy Circus Gallery, Via dei Pettinari 76, www.dorothycircusgallery.it.
SEBASTIAO SALGADO 1 OCT-13 FEB
The celebrated photojournalist Sebastião Salgado provides a black and white photographic journey through the Brazilian Amazon, after he spent six years capturing images of the forest, the rivers, the mountains and the people who live there. MAXXI, Italy’s national museum of 21st-century arts, presents Salgado’s 200 photographs against a soundscape of sounds recorded in the forests and created by Jean-Michel Jarre - feauring the rustling of trees, birdsong, the
shrieks of animals, and the roar of waterfalls. The exhibition highlights the fragility of this ecosystem, showing that in the protected areas where the indigenous communities live the forest has suffered almost no damage. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.
RIA LUSSI: WHO IS AFRAID OF PINK? 30 SEPT-13 NOV
Maja Arte Contemporanea presents a show by the Rome-based Milan artist Ria Lussi, the final stage of the gallery’s two-year cycle of exhibitions dedicated to female artists. With her collection of ironic and playful self-portraits, Lussi challenges the current gender disparity through permutations of her “Rose” series painted on round-shaped canvases. Maja Arte Contemporanea, Via di Monserrato 30, www. majartecontemporanea.com.
ERWIN WURM 25 SEPT-14 NOV
Rome’s Via Veneto has been filled with large-scale artworks by the Austrian artist Erwin Wurm in an open-air exhibition that opened on 25 September. The elegant street, synonymous with Rome’s ‘dolce vita’ era of in the 1960s, is currently home to 14 installations thanks to the Via Veneto Contemporanea project, curated by Catherine Löwe. Wurm’s semi-abstract sculptures, which present mundane objects in a new surprising light, are dotted along Via Veneto and in front of the Aurelian walls. Framed by the ancient arch of the Porta Pinciana is Big Mutter, a large hot water bottle with legs, while other pieces include Fat House and sculptures of suitcases with legs. The exhibition, which runs until 14 November, is Wurm’s first urban installation in Rome.
was the first known female war correspondent and the first woman to be allowed to work in combat zones during world war two. The exhibition comprises more than 100 images from the Life archive in New York, documenting the American photographer’s unconventional vision and life. The photographs on display include soldiers in world war two, aerial shots of American cities, portraits of Stalin and Gandhi, apartheid in South Africa and racial segregation in the US. The exhibition is accompanied by a series of public meetings and discussions on the themes of photography and female identity. Museo di Roma in Trastevere, Piazza S. Egidio 1/b, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.trastevere.it.
DAMIEN HIRST AT GALLERIA BORGHESE 8 JUNE-7 NOV
Galleria Borghese – home to masterpieces by Bernini, Canova and Caravaggio – presents the works of contemporary British artist Damien Hirst in a new exhibition titled Archaeology Now. The show includes more than 80 works from Hirst’s Treasures from the Wreck of the Unbelievable series, featuring monumental and small-scale sculptures made from bronze, rock crystal, coral and Carrara marble. Also on display in the Rome exhibition, curated by Anna Coliva and Mario Codognato,
are Hirst’s Colour Space paintings, exhibited in Italy for the first time. Held with the support of luxury fashion house Prada, the exhibition will see Hirst’s colossal sculpture, Hydra and Kali, displayed outdoors in the Secret Garden of the Uccelliera. Galleria Borghese says the installation stems from Hirst’s Treasures from the Wreck of the Unbelievable, exhibited for the first time in 2017 in Venice at Palazzo Grassi and Punta della Dogana. Retracing his colourful career, the Rome retrospective highlights the multimedia approach of the British artist who is known for his provocative art charged with social commentary. Reservations obligatory. Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5, tel. 068413979, www. galleriaborghese.beniculturali.it.
ALL ABOUT BANKSY: EXHIBITION 2 5 MAY-9 JAN
Chiostro del Bramante presents ALL about BANKSY, a new exhibition dedicated to the anonymous British street artist whose powerful, satirical and thought-provoking murals are celebrated around the world. The show, which follows an earlier Banksy exhibition, features about 250 artworks from private collections. Chiostro del Bramante, Via Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www. chiostrodelbramante.it.
PRIMA, DONNA: MARGARET BOURKE-WHITE 21 SEPT-27 OCT
The Museo di Roma in Trastevere presents an exhibition dedicated to the pioneering American photojournalist Margaret BourkeWhite (1904-1971). Bourke-White
Gandhi, Pune, 1946, by Margaret Bourke-White at Museo di Roma in Trastevere.
Wanted in Rome • November 2021 | 33
ART NEWS ROME VILLA WITH WORLD'S ONLY CARAVAGGIO CEILING PAINTING UP FOR SALE
Italy's real estate and art worlds are all a flutter over the news that the Casino di Villa Boncompagni Ludovisi, known as Villa Aurora, is on the market for almost half a billion euro. The sumptuous villa, hidden by high walls near Via Veneto, has been owned by the noble Ludovisi family since the 16th century. The historic property on Via Lombardia is all that remains of Villa Ludovisi, a country retreat established by Cardinal Francesco Maria Del Monte, which was sold off by the Ludovisi family during Rome's construction boom in the late 19th century. The building, originally the Ludovisi hunting lodge, is also home to numerous rooms frescoed by Guercino, not to mention the only known ceiling painting by Michelangelo Merisi, better known to the world as Caravaggio. The mural, sometimes referred to incorrectly as a fresco, dates to 1597 and was commissioned by Cardinal Del Monte, a diplomat and generous patron of the arts. Painted in oils on plaster, the work measures just 2.75 metres wide and features Jupiter, Neptune and Pluto in an allegorical scene reflecting the cardinal's fascination with alchemy. Jupiter, accompanied by an eagle, represents sulphur and air; Neptune, with a hippocamp, stands for mercury and water; and Pluto, with the threeheaded dog Cerberus, represents salt and earth. Jupiter is depicted reaching out to move the celestial sphere in which the sun revolves around the earth. These treasures by Caravaggio and Guercino, along with a selection of ancient statues, will contribute to its €471 million value when the Casino dell'Aurora is put up for auction on 18 January. Whoever purchases the 2,800-sqm property, protected under Italian cultural heritage laws, would also be required to spend around €11 million on restoration costs, which have been deducted from the auction value, reports Italian newspaper Caravaggio's only ceiling painting
La Repubblica. The sale is reportedly the result of a protracted inheritance dispute following the death in 2018 of the property's owner Prince Nicolò Boncompagni Ludovisi. The big question now is will the state step in to purchase this unique property or will it go to private owners who want to have a Caravaggio over their heads.
ROME RESTORES CORNARO CHAPEL
One of Rome's greatest treasures – the Cornaro Chapel with its sculptural masterpiece by Baroque genius Gian Lorenzo Bernini – has been returned to its dazzling glory following an extensive restoration. The chapel, part of the S. Maria della Vittoria church on Via XX Settembre, contains one of Bernini's greatest sculptures: the Ecstasy of St Teresa, a favourite of visitors to Rome as well as the artist who described it modestly as his "least bad" work.
The Cornaro Chapel dazzles once again
The restoration process, carried out by the superintendency of Rome, included studies of the 17th-century marble statue which depicts the mystical experience of St Teresa of Avila. In the dramatic scene the saint lies on a cloud in religious ecstasy after encountering an angel. The figures are surrounded by gilded stucco rays, with the sculpture's beauty accentuated by sunlight streaming through a window hidden in the aedicule, or shrine. In February 2020 Rome restored the Albertoni Chapel, including Bernini's sculpture of Blessed Ludovica Albertoni, at the church of S. Francesco a Ripa in the Trastevere area. Andy Devane
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OPERA play, is a world premiere. As the composer explains, the new season begins with a traditional story known to all and sets it to contemporary music, distorting the old image in a way similar to a Francis Bacon painting. Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.
MILAN LA CALISTO FRANCESCO CAVALLI 30 OCT-13 NOV
This early opera has been added to the La Scala repertoire, conducted by Christofe Rousset, directed by David McVicar. Francesco Cavalli was a composer of the early Baroque period. He wrote 41 operas, many of which are now lost. Unlike Monteverdi, who wrote for the court at Mantua, Cavalli concentrated on popular opera for public opera houses. His operas capture characters from myth and popular culture. La Calisto was first performed in 1651 at the Teatro S. Apollinare in Venice. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.
L'ELISIR D'AMORE BY DONIZETTI 9-23 NOV
This light-hearted opera is conducted by Michele Gamba and directed by Grisha Asagaroff. It marks the debut of Aida Garifullina, the Russian lyric soprano, as Adina, with Carlos Alvarez in his first buffo role at La Scala and Davide Luciano as Belcore. Gamba has worked with Antonio Pappano at the Royal Opera House Convent Garden and Daniel Barenboim. He first conducted L'Elisir D'Amore at La Scala in 2019. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.
Giorgio Battistelli has composed a contemporary version of Julius Caesar for the Teatro dell'Opera di Roma.
Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.
ROME JULIUS CAESAR BY GIORGIO BATTISTELLI 20-28 NOV
The opera, which opens the new season, has been commissioned by the Teatro dell'Opera di Roma. It will be conducted by Daniele Gatti and directed by Robert Carsen. Battistelli is an Italian composer of contemporary classical music and has composed 20 operas, including one based on Mary Shelley's Frankenstein and CO2 based on Al Gore's Inconvenient Truth. Battistelli's Julius Caesar, based on Shakespeare's
ACQUAPROFONDA 3-7 DEC
A new opera with music by Giovanni Solima and the libretto by Giancarlo De Cataldo. The opera, about the pollution of the sea, is dedicated to young children and has been commissioned by the Teatro dell'Opera di Roma and the Teatro Sociale di Como as part of the Progetto Opera Domani. Conducted by Carlo Donadio and directed by Luis Ernesto Donas. Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.
TOSCA BY PUCCINI 4-12 DEC
Alessandro Talevi's production of Tosca returns to the Rome Opera House, conducted by Paolo Arrivabeni, with Saioa Hernandez as Tosca, Vittorio Grigolo as Cavaradossi, Roberto Frontali as Scarpia. Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.
MACBETH BY GIUSEPPE VERDI 7-29 DEC
Verdi's Macbeth conducted by Riccardo Chailly opens La Scala's new season. The new production for Milan's opera house is by director Davide Livermore. Anna Netrebko sings Lady Macbeth, Luca Salsi Macbeth, Francesco Meli Macduff and Ildar Abdrazakov as Banquo.
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Riccardo Chailly opens the 1new La Scala season with Verdi's Macbeth.
Classical ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA ROMANA MISCHA MAISKY 2 NOV
Suites per violoncello solo di Bach. Cellist Mischa Maisky plays Bach cello suites No 2, 3 and 6 at the Teatro Olimpico. Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org.
CONTEMPORANEA I RAREFAZIONE E DENSITÀ DEL SUONO 8-9 NOV
Margherita Coraggio piano, Alessandro Di Giulio percussion, Leonardo Meianti guitar, Mattia Catarinozzi saxophone, and Camilia Refice flute, play music by Schoenberg, Henze, Cooper Cole, Berio, Garuti and Messiaen. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118, www.filarmonicaromana.org.
CONTEMPORANEA II IL GESTO E LA MATERIA 9 NOV
The same musicians play music by Stockhausen, Sciarrino, Cowell, Battistelli, Berio, Scelsi and Jodlowski. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118, www. filarmonicaromana.org.
Cellist Mischa Maisky returns to the Accademia Filarmonica.
OMAGGIO A IVAN VANDOR 14 NOV
The Contempoartensemble plays music by Ivan Vandor, who died last year. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118, www.filarmonicaromana.org.
VADIM REPIN KONSTANTIN LIFSHITZ 18 NOV
Vadim Repin violin and Konstantin Lifshitz piano perform music by Grieg, Prokofiev, Bartok and Brahms. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina. www.filarmonicaromana.org.
FANNY GENIO INVISIBILE 24 NOV
To mark the International Day for the Elimination of Violence Against Women on 25 Nov Eleonora Negri narrator, Anastasia Boldyreva mezzosoprano and Federica Bortoluzzi piano investigate the letters of Fanny Mendelssohn to
tell the story of the discrimination against this brilliant composer. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118, www. filarmonicaromana.org.
QUARTETTO HAGEN 25 NOV
This quartet from Salzburg marks the 40th anniversary of its foundation in the same year as the 200th anniversary of the foundation of the Accademia Filarmonica Romana. The programme still hasn't been published but it comes under the theme of Chamber Music from the Baroque to the Contemporary. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www. filarmonicaromana.org.
BICENTENARY CONCERT 4 DEC
Daniela Gatti conducts the Orchestra Mozart for the Accademia's 200th anniversary concert. Music by Rossini, Stravinsky, Aperchis (premiere commissioned by the Filarmonica) and Mozart. Rossini was an honorary member of the fledgling academy and Stravinsky taught at the Filarmonica. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www. filarmonicaromana.org.
ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA LORENZO VIOTTO / VERONIKA EBERLE 4-6 NOV
Kirill Petrenko conducts the Berliner Philharmoniker at the Auditorium Parco della Musica.
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Lorenzo Viotti conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus with Veronika Eberle violin, performing music by Strauss, Korngold, and Ravel. Viotti, who heads the Netherlands
Philharmonic Orchestra and the Dutch National Opera is as at home on the tennis court as he is in the concert hall, according to an interview with Vanity Fair. But more importantly he manages to reinterpret the classics in a way that is pulling in young audiences. Just watch his YouTube explanation of Gounod's Romeo and Juliet before the La Scala performance in early 2020 and you will understand why. Veronika Enerle started her career as a soloist when she was only 16 and performed with Simon Rattle conducting the Berliner Philarmoniker at the Salzburg Easter Festival. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P de Coubertin 36, www. santacecilia.it/en/.
SEONG-JIN CHO IN RECITAL 8 NOV
Seong-Jin Cho is the first South Korean to win the international Chopin Piano Competition. His love of Chopin is reflected in his choice of programme, Chopin scherzos 1,2,3,4 as well as pieces by Jancek and Ravel. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36, www.santacecilia.it/en/.
PHILIP GLASS KOYAANISQATSI 11-13 NOV
The screening of the cult film Koyaanisqatsi (Life is out of Balance) to the live music of the Philip Glass sound track, played by the Philip Glass Ensemble. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36, www.santacecilia.it/en/.
JEAN-YVES HIBAUDET IN RECITAL 15 NOV
Two Debussy Preludes performed by the French pianist. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36, www.santacecilia.it/en/.
STEPHANE DENEVE / HILARY HAHN 18-20 NOV
Stephane Deneve conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra with violinist Hilary Hahn playing music by Ravel, Prokofiev and Tchaikovsky. Auditorium Parco della
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Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36, www. santacecilia.it/en/.
BERLINER PHILHARMONIKER KIRILL PETRENKO
21 NOV Kirill Petrenko conducts the Berliner Philharmoniker performing Medelssohn's symphony no 3 and Shostakovich's symphony no 10. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36,www.santacecilia. it/en/.
VIVALDI JUDITHA TRIMPHANS 24 NOV
The Accademia Barocca di S. Ceclia and the S. Cecilia Chorus conducted by Federica Maria Sardelli perform Vivaldi's Juditha Tiruphans. This is the only surviving oratorio of the four composed by Vivaldi, although the overture has been lost. It was commissioned to celebrate the victory of Venice over the Turks at the seige of Corfu in 1716. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36,www.santacecilia.it/en/.
Rome and for the first time there will be one in the Salone del Cinquecento in Piazza della Signoria in Florence.
INSTITUZIONE UNIVERSITARIO DEI CONCERTI MARTIN HELMCHEN 6 NOV
The German pianist plays music by Bach, Messiaen and Schubert. Aula Magna della Sapienza, https://www. concertiiuc.it.
SERGEY AND LUSINE KHACHATRYAN 26 NOV
Sergey Khachatryan on the violin and his sister Lusine (sometimes called the poet of the keyboard) on the piano play music by Bach and Schubert, Debussy and Respighi. Aula Magna della Sapienza, https:// www.concertiiuc.it.
BACCHETTI: IL CLAVICEMBALO BEN TEMPERATO 20, 23 NOV
ROME CHAMBER MUSIC FESTIVAL BEETHOVEN, ZAPPA AND BERNSTEIN 22-25 NOV
The festival is celebrating its 18th anniversary and its 40 musicians, under the guidance of its artistic director Robert McDuffie, will perform a programme of music by Beethoven, Frank Zappa and Leonard Bernstein. Four concerts will be performed at the Auditorium Parco della Musica in
Andrea Bacchetti plays Bach's Il Clavicembalo ben Temperato Book II preludes and fughes 1-12 followed by 13-24. Aula Magna della Sapienza, https://www.concertiiuc.it.
TALLIS SCHOLARS 27 NOV
To mark the 500th anniversary of the death of Josquin Dezprez the Tallis Scholars, conducted by Peter Philips, sing music by Josquin, Palestrina, and Byrd. Aula Magna della Sapienza, https://www.concertiiuc.it. Wanted in Rome • November 2021 | 39
DANCE
Inferno by choreographer Roberto Castello for the Romaeuropa Festival.
fundamental part of the prodution in which bodies are transformed, sleep, wake up and find stillness in new forms of immobility. Teatro Vascello, Via Gacinto Carini 78.
MILAN
ROMAEUROPA FESTIVAL
LA BAYADERE RUDOLF NUREYEV
EL HERMOSO MISERIO QUE NOS UNE JESUS RUBIO GAMO THE SACRIFICE 3-4 NOV The Spanish choreographer and DADA MASILO
TEATRO ALLA SCALA 15 DEC-8 JAN
This ballet, which Nureyev made his own, opens the new season at La Scala, with new sets and costumes by Luisa Spinatelli. It is a return to purity of classical ballet with the whole of La Scala Ballet Company on stage and the participation of some of the ballet school's students. Kevin Rhodes is conducting. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammtici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.
ROME
TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA THE NUTCRACKER 19 DEC-2 JAN
Guiliano Peparini has adapted the old Christmas favourite with dancers Alessandra Amato, Susanna Salvi, Claudio Cocino and Alessio Rezza in the main roles. Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operadiroma.it.
dancer, Jesu Rubio Gamo, returns to Romaeuropa Festival with a new work that reflects on the role of creativity during isolation and loneliness, to the music of Bach and Purcel. Teatro Vascello, Via Giaconto Carini 78.
CINQUE DANZE PER IL FUTURO DAVIDE VALROSSO/NINA 4-5 NOV
Five scenes, with a dancer and a musician on stage for each scene, feature future scenarios in which relationships change and roles are exchanged. Teatro Biblioteca Quarticcioli, Via Castellaneta 10.
MANIFESTO CANNIBALE COLLETTIV0 CINETIC0 6-7 NOV
Light is the first form of energy for the our dancers "planted" on the stage. Schubert's Wintereise is a
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11-13 NOV
Dada Masilo has taken some of the great classics of dance and transformed them into her own. Here she taken Stravinsky's Right of Spring. She examines the question of the meaning of sacrifice today. Is it necessary in order to change? Sacrifice and identity are the questions posed by Masilo's latest choreography. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin 30.
INFERNO ROBERTO CASTELLO 12-13 NOV
Today's hell is similar to paradise in a society which forces us into ever greater competition, to be better, bigger, more beautiful, stronger, more attractive. This work is a tragedy in the form of a comedy. Teatro India, Sala B, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1.
LA NUOVA ABITUDINE SOCIETAS- CLAUDIA CASTELLUCCI 13-14 NOV
Ancient Greek Orthodox liturgical chant, mixed with traditional Russian country music, combine with intuitive dance and a primitive knowledge of the body to form new habits in new clothing. The word-play in Italian is on Abitudine and Abito. Changes of space and place create a metaphysical atmosphere around the dance. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin 30.
LARSEN C CHRISTOS PAPADOPOULOS 16-18 NOV
Papadopoulos creates a deceptively simple, minimalist universe where appearance and deception are fundamental to his theme. He also explores what motivates the transformation from intuition to action. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin 30.
manifesto poetico combines a disciplined choreography with an open and lively tempo. Mattatoio, Teatro 1, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4.
ITMAHRAG OLIVER DUBOIS 20-21 NOV
Oliver Dubois brings together his two worlds of Paris and Cairo in a vision of today's Egypt, with four dancers and three musicians. Central to the work is the Mahraganat, a musical style invented by young Egyptians in Cairo's popular neighbourhoods. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin 30. For the full Romaeuropa Festival programme see www.romaeuropa. net.
TEATRO OLIMPICO
DON JUAN ESERCISI PER UN MANIFESTO ATERBALLETTO POETICO 4-7 NOV A new production COLLECTIVE MINE 18 NOV
This Italian premiere is Collective Mine's debut. Esercisi per un
woman. The production is part of the Accademia Filarmonica Romana bicentenery programme. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile Da Fabriano 17, https://www.teatroolimpico.it/.
SHINE PINK FLOYD MOON 13 NOV
This production combines the choreography of Micha van Hoecke, the music of Pink Floyd and the dancers of the Daniele Cipriani Company. Shine is a journey into a fantasy lunar world, where the moon is no longer seen as a symbol of madness and lost souls but of poetry, fantasy and of life itself. Lighting, lazers and videos create a lunar landscape inhabited by imaginary figures such as Pierrot Lunaire and Petrushka, danced by members of the Daniele Cipriani Company. The work is inspired by the music of Stravinsky and Schonberg. The production is part of the Accademia Filarmonica Romana bicentenery programme. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile Da Fabriano 17, https://www.teatroolimpico.it/
for Aterballetto by John Inger. Don Juan, slave to his emotions, dances a series of duets with his lovers, in a different style for each
Don Juan for Aterballetto at Teatro Olimpico.
Wanted in Rome • November 2021 | 41
lassical lassical
The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city. The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city. There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums. Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All
concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica. Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza,
Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone 32a, RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome.
often concerts, festivals and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com
Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and7 the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards. Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com 5042 | Oct 2018 • Wanted Romein Rome | November 2021 •in Wanted
MUSIC MUSIC THEATR THEATRE CINEMA CINEMA VENUES VENUES
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The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wantedshow in Rome website for The following cinemas movies in English weekly updates. or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for Adriano, Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 weeklyPiazza updates. Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 0686391361 Barberini, Piazza BarberiniMastroianni 24-26, 1, tel. Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello 0686391361 tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it
Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 068553485 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 068553485 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 066861068 Odeon, Piazza Stefano 22, tel. Nuovo Sacher, LargoJacini Ascianghi 1, 0686391361 tel. 065818116
Space Moderno, Piazza della 44, tel. Odeon, Piazza Stefano JaciniRepubblica 22, tel. 0686391361 06892111 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec06892111 chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111
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Wanted in Rome | December 2017
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Teatro 06684000314, ww T Teatro Belli, 06684000314, ww ww T Teatro ww Brancaccio, ww T Teatro ww Ghione, ww T Teatro ww 06684000311, ww T 06684000311, ww
GIORGIO BATTISTELLI
Julius Caesar TEATRO COSTANZI NOVEMBER 20 - 28
CONDUCTOR DANIELE GATTI DIRECTOR ROBERT CARSEN TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA ORCHESTRA AND CHORUS A TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA NEW PRODUCTION WORK COMMISSIONED BY TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA
Ettore Festa, HaunagDesign - IIllustration by Gianluigi Toccafondo
WORLD PREMIERE
operaroma.it
FOUNDERS
PRIVATE SHAREHOLDERS
PATRONS
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Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it
pera
Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
op
ock
Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.
Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it
Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,
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Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it
heatre heatre
Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net 50 | Jan 2019 • Wanted in Rome
Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel. 14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Wanted 51 in |Rome • November | 45 Oct 2018 • Wanted2021 in Rome
46 | November 2021 • Wanted in Rome
gorski
a By Kate Z
PIZZA MARGHERITA
HOW TO MAKE GREAT PIZZA AT HOME Making your own pizza from scratch is a surefire way to impress and is a fun activity to do with friends and family. This recipe is a simple way to make great pizza at home using a domestic kitchen oven and, while the result may not be exactly like a real Roman pizzeria, it allows you to unleash your creativity and add whatever toppings you choose. Although the process of making the dough and leaving it to rise takes a while, this can be done in advance, so the actual topping and cooking of the pizza takes a matter of minutes. Cooking the base by itself for a few minutes before turning it over and adding the toppings will ensure a crunchy, non-soggy, crust, as will draining as much liquid as possible out of the mozzarella before using. The quantities below will make enough pizza for about 4 people, but you can use whatever size and shape of metal baking tin you have at home.
For the base: 500g flour 00 1 x 7g sachet of dried yeast 3 pinches of salt 1 pinch of sugar 350ml water Extra virgin olive oil
For the topping: 4 x 250g balls of mozzarella (fior di latte) 1 large jar of tomato passata Fresh basil leaves Sieve the flour into a large bowl. Add the yeast, salt and sugar and pour in the water. Mix everything together with a fork, once the dough starts to come together, tip it onto a floured board or work surfaced. Continue to knead with your hands, constantly pushing the dough back onto itself, until you have a soft, elastic consistency. If the dough is too wet, add a little flour; if it is too dry add a little more water or a drop of olive oil. In a clean bowl pour in about 4 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil. Place the ball of dough into the bowl, cover with plastic cling film and put the bowl into the oven (turned off) or a dark cupboard. Leave it to prove for at least 3 hours until the dough has doubled in size. Once the dough has risen, tip it back onto a floured surface along with the oil. Knead it well until the texture is smooth and soft. Divide the dough into pieces (the size depends on the baking tins you have and how thick you want the base of your pizza) and leave it to rest while you prepare the topping. Turn the oven on to heat to its highest temperature. Pour the passata into a bowl, add a splash of olive oil and a pinch of salt and mix well. Cut the mozzarella into cubes and use your hands to squeeze out as much liquid as possible to ensure that the pizza will not be soggy. Grease the baking tins with olive oil. Push the dough into the tins using your hands, try not to create any holes. Put the pizza into the lowest part of the oven and cook for 5-8 minutes then turn the base over in the tin. Spread the passata over the pizza and add some mozzarella and a drizzle of olive oil then place the pizza back into the low shelf of the oven for about 5 more minutes until the edges are crispy and the mozzarella has melted. Add a few fresh basil leaves and serve immediately.
Coromandel, Via di Monte Giordano 60/61, tel. 0668802461. Dolce, Via Tripolitania 4, tel. 0686215696. Ketumbar, Via Galvani 24, tel. 0657305338. ‘Na Cosetta, Via Ettore Giovenale 54, tel. 0645598326.
Indirizzi
Queen Makeda, Via di S. Saba 11, tel. 065759608.
Ciclostazione Frattini, Via Pietro Frattini 136/138, tel. 065503707. Atlas Coelestis, Via Malcesine 41, tel. 0635072243. Porto Fluviale, Via del Porto Fluviale 22, tel. 065743199. Rosti al Pigneto, Via Bartolomeo D’Alviano 65, tel. 062752608. Doppiozero, Via Ostiense 68, tel. 0657301961. Misto, Via Fezzan 21, tel. 0645471971. Il Bistrot delle Officine Farneto, Via dei Monti della Farnesina 77, tel. 0690286945. Mavi, Lungotevere di Pietra Papa 201, tel. 065584801.
Where to brunch in Rome Our picks of the best restaurants and cafes serving brunch on weekends – from Eggs Benedict to American-style pancakes. QUEEN MAKEDA GRAND PUB Each Sunday Queen Makeda offers an international brunch of dishes from the wok, noodles, salads, eggs, homemade tarts, vegetables, baked potatoes, artisan sausages and wurstel. There’s also the option of a British-style Sunday roast lunch, which includes beef, chicken, lamb, pork and Yorkshire puddings. Don’t miss the desserts, the 40 different craft beers available, the juices and the tasty nonalcoholic drinks. On the children’s menu (there’s also a supervised kids’ play area) you’ll find burgers, chips, tomato pasta and hot dogs. Sun 12.30-16.00. COROMANDEL Located near Piazza Navona, this cafe recreates the feel of a cosy 1950s home. If you fancy English-style eggs or pancakes for breakfast, then this is your place. On the menu you’ll find: simple eggs, omelette with roast potatoes and sausage, and either pancakes with bacon and maple syrup, scrambled eggs, maple syrup and icing sugar, or sweet pancakes with chocolate and hazelnut sauce, banana and flaked almonds. There are also smoothies, yogurt and fruit. Sat-Sun from 11.00-15.00. DOLCE For a New York-style Sunday brunch, head to Dolce, the restaurant and bakery in the Africano district. The kitchen is transformed into a bakery with a menu brimming with international cuisine. From eggs to pancakes, or even to sandwiches, sweet and savoury are placed side by side. You can choose between an omelette with three fillings of your choice, or an Eggs Benedict on toasted bread baked in-house. Sun 12.00-15.00. KETUMBAR Ketumbar’s organic brunch, served at weekends, is the talk of Testaccio. There’s a buffet ranging from antipasti to cakes and pastries, that changes seasonally. There are also many different soups, cous cous, dark taragna polente, fritters, hummus, cod au gratin, granary focaccia, salads and vegan dishes. The menu is accompanied by organic wine and artisan beers. At Ketumbar, brunch is also baby-friendly. There’s a kid’s menu and a space dedicated to young children, cared for by qualified minders. Sat-Sun 12.30-16.00. ‘NA COSETTA In this Italian bistro in Pigneto, you can enjoy brunch, otherwise known in Italian as the ‘colanzo’. Dishes are both sweet and savoury and stick to a true Italian style with a few of the chef’s special touches. Pastries and cakes are made by pastry chef Stefania Guerrizio. Sun 12.30-16.00. CICLOSTAZIONE FRATTINI If you’re on the hunt for a place in the Portuense district where you can sit outside and let your kids run about, Ciclostazione Frattini should be your go-to brunch spot. A restaurant, pizzeria and grill, here the whole family can have fun in the indoor Baby Garden and Baby Park. The menu includes more than 30 options, ranging from fresh artisan pasta to homemade cakes and desserts. There are main courses such as meat and fish dishes, soups, cooked vegetables, salads, and cheeses. Sat-Sun 12.30-15.30.
ATLAS COELESTIS Here you can choose between ten different dishes, from antipasti to dessert, which change weekly. There are also roselline di pizza (baked pizza in the shape of roses) to taste, as the restaurant has reopened its pizza oven and in the evening it serves pizzas made with wholewheat flour. On the kid’s menu you’ll find three different options for the main meal and ice cream for dessert. Sun 12.30. PORTO FLUVIALE This crowded Ostiense restaurant offers a buffet brunch menu containing around 60 dishes: hot and cold pasta dishes, soups, raw salads and cooked vegetable dishes, meats, and cheeses served with a variety of tasty dips and sauces. Don’t forget to try the delicious pastries and cakes. Sat-Sun 12.30-16.00. ROSTI AL PIGNETO If you feel like spending the weekend outside in a huge garden suitable for children, Rosti is the place for you. For starters you can tuck into the gnocchi with tomato and basil sauce, cannelloni with ricotta and tomato, ravioli with burrata, tomato and basil, or vegetarian crepes. For main course there’s seasoned meat balls, veal steak with mushrooms, roast pork with honey, turkey nuggets with yoghurt and mustard, anchovies marinated in tarragon and chilli, or cod balls with tomato, as well as salads and desserts. Sat-Sun 12.30-16.00. DOPPIOZERO Here you can enjoy a tasty brunch that benefits from its onsite bakery. The buffet at the weekend includes pasta, pizza (many different types), olive bread, cous cous, salmon, meat, buffalo mozarella and baked goods such as muffins and brownies. Sat-Sun 12.30-15.30. MISTO Located in the Africano district, Misto serves club sandwiches, pancakes, muffins, salads, and seasonal fruits made into juices and smoothies. You can choose one dish from a choice of three: the club sandwich, fillet of salmon or veggie sandwich and then add either pancakes or a salad, then choose between a savoury muffin or Scottish scone, and select a fruit juice. Kids can enjoy either a savoury muffin or Scottish scone, pancakes, fruit salad or orange or blueberry juice. We also recommend trying one of the alcoholic fruit cocktails or a pomegranate spritz. Sun 11.30-15.30. IL BISTROT DELLE OFFICINE FARNETO Every Sunday you can tuck into a tasty brunch at the bistro in Officine Farneto, on Via Monti della Farnesina. The dishes range from homemade fresh pasta to meat and fish courses, cooked vegetables and desserts. We recommend the freshly-prepared burgers. Sun from 12.30. MAVI At Mavi you can enjoy a brunch that’s a little different – part buffet, part à la carte. On the buffet you’ll find eggs, savoury pancakes and many different salad recipes, while from the menu you can order dishes such as burgers, bagels, cakes and sweet pancakes. The buffet includes coffee, water and fruit juice. Sun 13.00-16.00.
www.puntarellarossa.it
Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com
International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com
Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it
Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com
Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)
50 | November 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30
Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00
Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680
Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it
52 | November 2021 • Wanted in Rome
St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022
Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606
Emergency numbers • • • • • • •
Ambulance tel. 118 Carabinieri tel. 112 Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 Fire brigade tel. 115 Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 Police tel. 113 Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355
