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THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME
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WHERE TO GO IN ROME
ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS
0 0 0 0 9
CONT
EDITORIALS MAYOR OF ROME? Andy Devane
10. NEMI'S DISPERSED TREASURES
Margaret Stenhouse
14. CAMPAGNA ROMANA: EXPLORING ROME'S HINTERLAND Martin Bennett
18. LAKES AROUND ROME 20. ROME FOR children 22. STREET ART guide 24. MUSEUMS 26. ART GALLERIES 42. CULTURAL VENUES 47. RECIPE 48. puntarella rossa 50. USEFUL NUMBERS
DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 PROGETTO GRAFICO: Dali Studio Srl IMPAGINAZIONE: Simona Castellari STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 30/09/2021
THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME
Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 13, Numero 9 OCTOBER 2021 | € 2,00
4. WHO WILL BE THE NEXT
MISCELLANY
WHAT'S ON
32. EXHIBITIONS 34. ART news 36. OPERA 38. Classical 39. Dance 40. Theatre
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Big Mutter by Erwin Wurm on Via Veneto Image courtesy Sovrintendenza Capitolina ai Beni Culturali.
ENTS 4
WHO WILL BE THE NEXT MAYOR OF ROME?
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39
CAMPAGNA ROMANA: EXPLORING ROME'S HINTERLAND
EXHIBITIONS
32 classical
Politics
WHO WILL BE THE NEXT MAYOR OF ROME? AS ROME PREPARES FOR LOCAL ELECTIONS ON 3-4 OCTOBER, WE TAKE A LOOK AT THE FOUR MAIN CONTENDERS FOR THE CITY'S TOP JOB Andy Devane
T
he current mayor Virginia Raggi, in the final days of her five-year term, is seeking reelection. However she faces tough competition from three other candidates. Carlo Calenda is the leader of the liberal and progressive political party, Azione. Roberto Gualtieri is the candidate for the centre-left Partito Democratico (PD). Enrico Michetti is backed by an alliance of three parties on the right, Fratelli d’Italia, the Lega and Forza Italia. __________ Virginia Raggi, a member of the populist Movimento 5 Stelle (M5S), is the first woman to hold the office of Rome mayor. She was elected
in a landslide victory in 2016, promising “winds of change”, however it didn't take long for the honeymoon period to wear off. In the ensuing five years, Raggi has weathered controversies including rubbish piling up on streets, buses going on fire and wild boar running amok in the suburbs. In Raggi's defence she inherited a deeply indebted capital and has made progress in turning around the dire accounts of a city she found “on its knees.” She has a good record on tackling Rome's criminal clans and has worked to clean up city hall following the notorious Mafia Capitale corruption case involving
Left-right: Candidates for Rome mayor: Enrico Michetti, Roberto Gualtieri, Virginia Raggi and Carlo Calenda.
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Politics criminals conniving with corrupt politicians, city officials and businessmen to rig public tenders. She has green credentials too, overseeing the introduction of electric rental scooters, bicycles and cars, and increasing the city's network of bicycle lanes. Raggi also points to her work in helping disadvantaged suburbs in the outskirts of Rome by investing in community projects and infrastructure. She has succeeded in getting the Metro C to reach Piazza Venezia. However her detractors say things have got worse during her tenure, noting that she withdrew the city's bid to host the Olympics 2024 and presided over a failed stadium project for the AS Roma football team. She has faced ridicule for her plans to install a cable car project in the suburbs, and recently earned the ire of the city's Jewish community for laying the foundation stone of the Museo della Shoah Holocaust museum – a project stalled for many years – during the final weeks of her mandate. Raggi, 43, is backed by M5S leader and former Italian prime minister, Giuseppe Conte, who has joined her on the campaign trail. In seeking a second mandate, Raggi says the city needs “continuity” to avoid “going back to the past.” In a recent interview with Wanted in Rome, she said that future challenges for the capital include preparing for the Jubilee of 2025 and Rome's candidacy for Expo 2030.
Virginia Raggi
__________ Carlo Calenda, 48, a politician and manager who has held senior roles at Ferrari and Sky Italia, is the leader of the liberal and progressive political party Azione. He has been on the Rome campaign trail for almost a year with a pledge to "bring this city back among the great European capitals." Calenda, who defines himself as a "liberal social democrat," graduated in law at La Sapienza. He served briefly as Italy's permanent representative to the EU in 2016 before being appointed Italian minister of economic development, a post he held under the administrations of both Matteo Renzi and Paolo Gentiloni of the PD. Like Renzi (who went on to found the Italia Viva party), Calenda parted ways with the PD, after the party entered into coalition with the M5S in the cabinet of Giuseppe Conte in August 2019. It was originally thought that the PD might
Carlo Calenda
Wanted in Rome • October 2021 | 5
Politics endorse Calenda however in the end the party went with its own candidate, Gualtieri. Calenda runs a well-oiled, well-funded election campaign, surrounding himself with people qualified for their roles rather than being recognisable faces. Like Raggi, he is a combatitive character. He is skilled in the arts of social media, where his rivals frequently face the receiving end of his biting sarcasm. With his ambitious “Plan for Rome”, Calenda says that despite what some Romans think, there is no such thing as an “ungovernable city.” Top of his list is tackling the “simply disastrous” rubbish situation by equipping Rome with its own treatment plants and a “sustainable and efficient” autonomous waste system. He also has plans to re-organise and speed up public transport and boost public services in each sector. He was the subject of criticism for his suggestion to remove city hall offices from the Campidoglio and turn the vacated buildings into a mega ancient Rome museum, boosting the adjoining Capitoline Museums by cherry-picking works from other collections. “My commitment is to look at the Rome of the future by putting its citizens at the centre of my project” – Calenda said in a recent interview with Wanted in Rome – “Rome is a city that needs to be reassembled piece by piece.” __________ Roberto Gualtieri, 55, who served as finance minister under the second Conte government from 2019 until 2021, is the candidate for the centre-left Partito Democratico (PD). Despite a late start he is second place in the polls, after Michetti, and is rapidly closing the gap. Gualtieri is considered the PD's second choice as candidate after it was initially thought that the Lazio governor and senior party figure Nicola Zingaretti might run. An historian and academic, Gualtieri is an associate professor in contemporary history (on leave) at Rome's La Sapienza University. A founding member of the PD, Gualtieri was a member of the European parliament from 2009 to 2019, where he chaired the influential economic and monetary affairs committee. 6 | October 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Roberto Gualtieri
If elected, Gualtieri says he would tackle Rome's trash problem by boosting separated waste collection and investing in plants to treat and recycle rubbish; introduing a digitilisation programme in city hall; increasing gardening services and tackling the threat posed by the pine tortoise scale parasite to the capital's pine trees. He also proposes having all city services “within 15 minutes” for residents of each area, from schools to public transport; investing in new trams; and extending the opening hours of the metro at weekends. Gualtieri's campaign suffered a set-back, just 10 days before the election, thanks to a thinly-veiled attack from former PD mayor Ignazio Marino who slammed the party for putting forward a candidate that was part of the group who moved to oust him from office in 2015. A keen guitarist in his free time, Gualtieri is endorsed by PD leader Enrico Letta and Zingaretti.
Politics
Enrico Michetti
The mayoral candidate currently leading in the opinion polls is lawyer and radio host Enrico Michetti who until recently was unknown to most people outside of his Radio Radio listenership, a fact acknowledged in his first election posters which bore the slogan “Michetti who?”. The 55-year-old is backed by the centre-right (centrodestra) alliance comprising the far-right Fratelli d'Italia (FdI) of Giorgia Meloni; the right-wing Lega party of Matteo Salvini; and the centre-right Forza Italia of Silvio Berlusconi. A law professor at the University of Cassino, Michetti was endorsed strongly by Meloni who convinced her allies to back the candidate she described as "an extraordinary professional." Michetti is known to make cloying references to the glory of ancient Rome, telling reporters that “now is the time to give back to the Eternal City what it deserves, the role of caput mundi." From the outset he promised a “very civil” election campaign and he has kept his word. He is less pugnacious than his competitors who accuse him of leaving debates early or not showing up at all. He is also accused of being scant on detail and slow to publish his election 8 | October 2021 • Wanted in Rome
programme amid claims in the media that parts of it were allegedly plagiarised. Michetti made headlines earlier this year for suggesting on his radio show that it was time to revive the stiff-armed Roman salute because it would be more hygienic in the coronavirus era. He has been somewhat ambigious in his attitude to covid-19 vaccines and his campaign has been distracted by controversies caused by several candidates on his electoral list, from their no vax conspiracy theories to their Mussolini tattoos. Michetti says that if elected he would create a special councillor for the suburbs to focus on improving “services, infrastructure and opportunities” in the areas furthest away from the city centre. He would also allocate €250 million a year to invest in 6,000 km of roads and pavements; speed up the city's ATAC buses with new bus lanes and extra services; and construct 33km of new tram lines in time for Jubilee 2025. Michetti says: "We must return to Romans the pride of living, working and investing in the future of the Eternal City." As the election date grew closer, Meloni increasingly joined his side on the campaign trail.
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History
NEMI'S DISPERSED TREASURES HOW THE FINDS FROM THE ANCIENT TEMPLE OF DIANA ENDED UP IN NOTTINGHAM AND COPENHAGEN Margaret Stenhouse
I
n 1885, when Sir John Savile Lumely, Her Britannic Majesty's ambassador to Italy, began excavating the area of the Temple of Diana at Lake Nemi in the Castelli Romani, Rome had been the capital of Italy for less than 15 years. The city was in an upheaval of expansion, restructuring and modernisation that involved the demolition and rebuilding of entire quarters in the historic centre. During the works an enormous quantity of ancient art came to light. At the time, not much thought was given to preservation and the protection of the new nation's historic heritage, and archaeological digs were little more than glorified treasure hunts. Sir John was approaching retirement and Rome was considered a suitable backwater where the diplomat could relax after a long and often
Lake Nemi
10 | October 2021 • Wanted in Rome
turbulent career. But it also suited the ambassador particularly well as he was a passionate amateur archaeologist and the Rome post gave him the ideal opportunity to indulge his hobby. He turned his attention to the lesser known sites outside the city boundaries and decided to concentrate on the Lake Nemi crater where ancient sources had mentioned an important cult centre dedicated to the goddess Artemis-Diana. Although it was recorded that a number of important pieces of sculpture had been purloined from the site over the centuries, Nemi was, from an archaeologist's point of view, virgin territory when Sir John arrived, and he was full of anticipation. Only a few years earlier, John Turtle Wood – an English surveyor and architect employed by the Ottoman railways – had made
History the spectacular discovery of the most celebrated temple dedicated to the Goddess Diana at Ephesus (in present-day Turkey), considered one of the Seven Wonders of the ancient world. Sir John probably nurtured secret hopes of a similar triumph. In actual fact, the astonishing number of finds which he unearthed during eight months excavating far surpassed his expectations. The crater was a veritable treasure trove, virtually untouched since the times of the Caesars. Sir John had negotiated the rights to dig in the Lake Nemi crater with the landowner, Prince Filippo Orsini, with the agreement that all the finds were to be divided between them. Unlike Sir John, however, Orsini’s interest was not of a scientific nature. He was in serious financial difficulties and he saw the excavations as a probable source of income. Roman antiquities were much in demand with foreign tourists as souvenirs to take home and museums in northern Europe and the USA were willing and eager to pay high prices for finds that would add prestige to their collections. The agreement the prince made with the ambassador was that all the booty found on the site should be divided between them. However Orsini appropriated the items which he thought would most readily appeal to collectors and which would command the highest prices. In the end, Sir John was left with the "pickings", which nonetheless amounted to seven bales and sixteen cases full of ancient Roman antiquities, a total of 1,586 items in bronze, marble and terracotta, as well as several hundreds of Roman coins, all of which he donated to his home town of Nottingham. Orsini terminated their agreement when the English aristocrat began to turn up whole statues, like a particularly fine female herm, a male head which resembled Julius Caesar and a bearded god's bust in Greek island marble. The prince realised that an authentic treasure trove was almost within their grasp – and he was not prepared to share it. His refusal to renew their contract when the license expired was one of the bitterest disappointments of Sir John's life. All the pressure that the British and American Archaeological Society in Rome put to bear on the prince to make him change his mind was to no avail. Orsini no longer wanted partners
Selection of objects from the excavations at Nemi. Courtesy of Nottingham City Museums and Galleries.
and when he subsequently re-opened the dig on his own account, he was rewarded with the discovery of a whole room full of sculpture – a princely cache, which he sold to the Danish beer magnate Carl Jocobsen and which was destined to enhance his burgeoning sculpture. Sir John had actually stumbled on this important find when he had unearthed the herm of a Roman matron called Fundilia Rufa, one of the few pieces of portrait sculpture that he was able to take home to Nottingham. Fundilia, who was named on her plinth, was standing with a group of companions inside a votive chamber set against the back wall of Diana's temple. Orsini's men uncovered the entire group of sculptures, including a full figure statue of the same Fundilia, along with the statue of the man, Fundilius Doctus, who had paid her memory a unique tribute. His inscription identified him Fundilius Doctus as a professional actor (Parasitus Apollonis, as the Romans called them) and explained that he was an enfranchised slave, who had belonged to Fundilia's family. The statue of Doctus is considered to be a masterpiece of Roman sculpture, and was in such perfect condition when it was found that for a long time it was suspected of being a fake. In Imperial Rome, many actors made personal fortunes. Evidently, Fundilius Doctus, a popular performer, had purchased his freedom and was rich enough to commission an artist to create his likeness, as well as the herm and statue of his Wanted in Rome • October 2021 | 11
Fundilius Rufus, collection Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, Copenhagen.
former owner Fundilia, whom he must have held in high regard. The statues of both Fundilia and Fundilius are now in Copenhagen, along with the other herms that were found in the chapel. The most surprising aspect of this discovery, however, was the fact that at least some of these sculptures in this same votive chamber were also actors, or connected to the acting profession. One was a comic player called Lucius Faenius Faustus. His inscription related that he specialised in the role of the “Parasite” – a rich man's dependent, or hanger-on, and a common figure of fun in first-century Roman society. Another was Norbanus Sorex, who must have been a famous performer, as his portrait was also found in the ruins of Pompeii. There were three other women. One, identified as Staia Quinta, was described as a hairdresser, while the other two cannot be identified with any certainty because the herm shafts were separated from the heads during Orsini's hasty excavations. The company was completed by a Quintus Hostius Capito, a teacher of the highly esteemed discipline of oratory, and an Aninius Rufus, who must have been related to Fundilia. Carl Jacobsen was apparently greatly satisfied with the Nemi purchases when they finally arrived in Denmark and he could appreciate their high artistic quality. But unfortunately he did not know where to put them. A couple of years previously, when the Christiansborg Palace had burnt down, Carl and his wife, Ottilia, had offered their private sculpture collection to the city of Copenhagen to compensate the loss of the royal collection. 12 | October 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Staia Quinta, collection Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, Copenhagen.
A site for a new gallery was chosen in Dantes Plads, near the celebrated Tivoli Gardens, but, due to a series of hitches, the building was not ready until 1897. Even before it was inaugurated, however, the exhibition space had become inadequate. Throughout the years of construction, the ever enthusiastic Jacobsen had continued to acquire more and more pieces of both antique and contemporary sculpture. Among them were a few important pieces that had been discovered a couple of centuries earlier by Cardinal Despuig, advisor to Pope Pius VI, who had done some excavation work in Nemi. Finally, in 1906, the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek opened its antique sculpture collection in a brand new state-of-the-art building where the various rooms are decorated to harmonise with the period of the works they contain, from the ancient Egyptians to the Etruscans, the Greeks and the Romans, and where the Nemi collection is on view today. At the Nottingham City Museum and Galleries, situated within the old walls of the one time mediaeval castle, only a selection of Sir John's finds are normally on display due to problems of space and a more recent focus on local history. However, a major exhibition, entitled The Treasures of Nemi was held in 2013, drawing an enthusiastic following. At the moment, the herm of Fundilia Rufa stands in the portraits section of the Gallery of Art. Other sample pieces from Sir John's collection are on show in the Myth, Power and Beauty section of the museum. In addition, the Collections Gallery, which concentrates on the history of the museum and its major 18th/19th-century donors displays a sample selection of the Nemi antiquities.
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Travel
CAMPAGNA ROMANA: EXPLORING ROME'S HINTERLAND TAKE A DAY-RETURN TRAIN TRIP AROUND AN HISTORICALLY-RICH AREA FRAMED BY THE ALBAN HILLS, THE SABINE HEIGHTS AND THE APENNINES Martin Bennett
“
To stray in spirit better through the land/ This morn of Rome and May,” recommends Robert Browning’s poem Two in Campagna.
Or for €5, in whatever month, one can take a train, a day-return from Guidonia to Tiburtina. First stop for Romeward journey is Bagni di Tivoli, bringing home how this often-neglected hinterland was part-and-parcel with Rome's urban centre. Those variously-sized segments of smoothly-cut travertine visible from the carriage window are the same material that Emperor Vespasian had elephanted in for his Flavian amphitheatre/ Colosseum. Another instance of how all roads lead to Rome. Ancient aqueduct ruins near Villa Quintili on Appia Antica.
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Down the line is Ponte di Nona, named after Rome’s ‘ninth mile’ from the Forum. The river Aniene’s tributary below has vanished into twinkling air. Yet the ancient bridge still stands, its central section from the first century BC. Where commuters now drive to work, picture foot-slogging legionnaires along Via Prenestina’s ex-consular road. "Rome’s ghost since Rome’s decease," Browning, looking across the ruinstrewn landscape, compacts milennia into a phrase. The Campagna is also studded with villas. A tribute to the ancients’ mastery of hydrology, some come with bath-complexes. Take Villa Quintili out along Via Appia Antica. Its baths contain, via so-called tubulae, a built-in heating system. Value added
indeed. Until the property attracted the attentions of avaricious Emperor Comodus. On trumped-up treason charges, the eminent and upright Quintili brothers, ex-consuls and governors both, were done away with, their villa passing into imperial hands. More fortunate, Latin poet Horace occupied a villa gifted him by his patron Maecenas. north of Tivoli, it has not only baths attached but a fish-farm/ vivarium. Back along Appia Antica, Maxentius’s villa boasts a 400m-long circus to seat 10,000 (private) spectators. The shape, amidst "an everlasting wash of air" (Browning’s phrase), remains discernable. Its masonry, though, has been carted away, likewise the central obelisk which, as per Pope Innocent X’s orders (1651), now embellishes Piazza Navona. Other villas sprouted along river banks, for Roman historian Cato the Elder the ideal venue. By the Aniene several have been unearthed, the river both scenic and a ready means of transport, as example Villa Ripa Mammea and Villa Cervara. Nearby towers the remains of a quarry once supplying ancient Rome’s upmarket building boom. All well and good, idyllic ‘otium’, the Romans' 'R&R' guaranteed. However with Barbarians at the gates, soon la Campagna would never be the same. True, as the empire shrunk and foodstuffs became scarce, Campagna/ Ager Romanus, previously used for pasture, enjoyed a brief lease of agricultural life, its crops making up the shortfall of Rome’s lost provinces. This nothwithstanding the fact that with Constantine’s move to the east (together with a mass of patricians and artisans), many villas had passed to the now official Church which now officially established became a big-time landowner. The most infamous blow came in 537. Vertiges, the Visigoth king, blocked the aqueducts in the Campo Barbaro (present-day Parco dell’Appia Antica), using two of them, filled with ‘extra mud and stones’ (c.f. Latin historian Propinius), to form a trapezoidshaped fortress. Hydrology kaput, Rome’s idyllic outskirts/newfound breadbasket turned swamp. Blame has been heaped, longer term, on the new religion for the felling of Campagna’s sacred pagan groves, with adverse ecological effects stretching millennia. Goths then Lombards came and left. To the new Church landlords more important than seasonal profit from agriculture was the fact of permanent ownership. "A diseased sterile wetland," notes one Grand Tourist, ‘er deserto’ as it was nicknamed by
Ruins of Villa di Massenzio. Photo: Zoran Karapancev / Shutterstock.com.
hard-pressed locals. One 18th-century author even claims that popes gloried in Campagna’s desolation, its serving to redirect pilgrims or tourists to the better-maintained wonders of the Eternal City. Actually the eighth-century Pope Adrian undertook aqueduct reconstruction, then in 1585 Sixtus V, redirecting Aqua Alessandria, built the Aqua Felice. Mediaeval times saw a spate of castle-building by papal vassals. First along the coast to stop the Saracens (such as the 10th-century Tor Vaianica) then Normans, and next inland, to defend feuding land-owning families from each other (11th-century Tor Sapienza, now naming also a train station en route.) Wreaking as much damage as any horde (and one of multiple factors behind the empire’s fall), is malaria, formerly known as ‘tertian’ or ‘quartan’ fever. The symptoms, if not the cause, were recognised by Hippocrates (c4th BC), and later described, under Tiberius’s reign, by Latin writer Celsus. Pliny the Elder links the health of the farmworkers at his different villas to seasonal flooding. Only in the 1890s would it be possible to claim "Rome’s history has largely been written by the mosquito", to quote a writer at the time. The seeming exaggeration received more credence in the late 1990s when American archaeologist Davis Soren came upon a children’s graveyard on Lugnano, 95 km from the capital. Dating to 450 AD, 40 skeletons were found, many still- or newly-born, then as now, a particularly vulnerable group where malaria is concerned. More sinister still were fragments of beheaded and dismembered puppies at the same site. Along with traces of honeysuckle, an old ‘tertian’ remedy. The puppies suggested the parents’ having resorted to pagan sacrifice in propitiation. Indeed, the Romans Wanted in Rome • October 2021 | 15
Travel by Turner who, approaching Rome, would jot in his diary, "my first bit of Claude."
Flight to Egypt by Annibale Carracci at Galleria Doria Pamphilij.
characterised malaria/ ‘tertian’ as an evil spirit. No surprise that the skeletons had been blocked off by strategically-placed slabs. Nor that Quintus Serenus under Caracalla’s reign reports ‘abacadabra’ as a spell, worn round the neck as talisman/antidote. Concurrently to Soren’s findings Professor Coluzzi, former hygiene professor at La Sapienza, was gathering evidence for his theory that malaria reached Campagna via Rome’s north African colonies, Sardinia a mid-way point, the plasdomium / malaria parasite being present in ships’ waterbarrels. As in a crime series, proof hardened after DNA tests; British science historian Davis Sallares managed to extract malarial traces from a threeyear-old girl’s thighbone, (Skeleton 36 of those previously excavated by Sorene.) Malaria as an element in Rome’s decline passed from wild speculation to solid fact. The search is now on for an equivalent graveyard for adult victims. Another scourge, over time, were brigands. On Via Giulia, SS. Maria dell’Orazione e la Morte’s facade includes, with winged skulls, a plaque dated 1694: "Offerings for the poor dead collected from the Campagna." Thus the church’s eponymous order was devoted to retrieving bodies of brigandage’s abandoned victims. Countryside as deathtrap. Yet from an artistic viewpoint it was a cradle. Alban Hills to the south, northward the Sabine Heights with its scenic temples, eastward the Apennines, the area can claim to be the world’s most painted terrain ever. In the 1500s Dutch landscape pioneer Paul Brill was already at work, transferring open air to easel. A century later Annibale Carracci would use Campagna as backdrop to his Flight to Egypt, now in Galleria Doria Pamphilij. A painting by Baroque master Pietro da Cortona in the Capitoline museum depicts a view for its own sake. Residents of France’s Villa Medici in Rome, Poussin and Claude Lorrain depicted rural stretches bathed in a sumptuous golden light later admired 16 | October 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Throughout, stock mythological figures shrink in size as the natural background dominates traditionally classical narrative. Gods and goddesses upstaged by foliage and light-effects, another kind of flora, might be a summary. With Hackert then Corot (cf. his depiction of the Claudian acqueduct) human figures disappear entirely. Aided by viridian’/ chromium oxide, a state-of-the-art very expensive colour, painting al vero prefigures photography. The artist in the same ‘Grand Tour’ period is redeployed as supplier of souvenirs. Welshman and ‘Father of British Landscape Painting’, Richard Wilson describes his Campagna views as ‘good breeders’, such was their demand. Most upmarket ‘selfie’ of all is surely Tischbein’s portrait of Goethe. Millennia in his ken, the writer reclines on a bench/ plinth? Alongside is a frieze of Iphigenia in Tauris, matching Goethe’s then work-in-progress, while at his shoulder is Cecilia Metella’s tomb. Grand tourist par excellence. No matter changes in taste or style, Campagna had enough to keep painters busy for years. The early 1900s brought the ‘XXV’ group of painters, referring to the number of its members. Sundays, with ritual stop-off at local trattoria, they would make their excursion. Unlike Claude and Poussin, their work was deliberately realistic, with a social agenda documenting the inhabitants’ poor health and indirectly inspiring Mussolini's 1920s-30s bonifica / draining projects. Thanks also to the discovery of quinine, by the 1940s Campagna had become fully-habitable; towns such as Guidonia (named after the air-ace Alessandro Guidoni) sprang up over mouldered estates and castles. Back on our day-return, train-window, then, as alternative art-gallery. To watch-towers, aqueducts and age-old cypresses, add the odd pylon and mechanically-produced rolls of hay. Gaze left at the siding at Bagni di Tivoli: ruststreaked yellow repair engine is overrun by clumps of in-blown vegetation. A reminder that Campagna’s ever-ready to reassert itself. "Such letting nature have her way/ While heaven looks down from her towers," says Browning. Or from Horace’s Epistle (10,1) about his Sabine farm: "Drive Nature off with a pitchfork, she’ll press back." On the Guidonia return, the carriage-window frames some archaeologists crouching in an open field as they try, in their small way, to reverse the process.
LAGO DI ALBANO This volcanic crater lake presents visitors with beautiful views of its clear water and surrounding forests. The picturesque towns along the shores serve as popular summer resort areas for Romans, including Castel Gandolfo, home to the summer papal palace whose gardens were recently opened to the public. On the other side of the lake is Palazzolo, a villa bought by Rome’s Venerable English College in 1920 and now open to guests. The towns surrounding the lake are known for their restaurants, shops and fruit farms. Swimming, fishing and boating are among the favourite activities for visitors, and the lake’s beach is located on the western shore. A simple 45-minute train ride from Termini, visitors can reach Lago Albano by taking the FL4 train towards Albano Laziale and getting off at the Castel Gandolfo stop.
around rome LAGO DI NEMI Lago di Nemi is a small and unique volcanic lake where divers in the 19th century discovered two large ships built for the notorious Roman emperor Caligula at the bottom of the lake, filled withbottom of the lake, filled with artworks and treasures. Replicas of the ships along with other artefacts are on display at the nearby Museum of Roman Ships. Travellers can also visit the natural caves around the lake, which were a favourite haunt of 19th-century foreign artists such as Turner. Nemi is associated with the cult of the Roman goddess Diana, and, for the last 80 years, an annual strawberry festival. Visitors can reach the lake by taking the SS7 Appia southbound as far as Genzano, and then following signs for Nemi. LAGO DI VICO Formed by the volcanic activity of Mount Venus, Lago di Vico offers a unique geological backdrop set amid lush woodland and hills. The surrounding nature reserve is a haven for wildlife, but what is most characteristic of the area are the hazel and chestnut plantations. Lakeside campsites and hotels offer swimming, sailing and horse riding. The two towns worth a visit are Ronciglione and Caprarola with its magnificent and recently restored Villa Farnese. Lago di Vico is a 90-minute drive from Rome taking the SS2 Cassia, and turning north at Sutri.
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LAGO DI BOLSENA Located on the site of the Vulsini volcano, dormant since about 100 BC, this crater lake has two islands and is surrounded by rolling hills and vegetation. The area around Montefisascone on the southeast shore of the lake is famous for its Est! Est!! Est!!! wine. The town of Bolsena in the northeast is a popular tourist resort in summer and it is here that the famous so-called Eucharistic Miracle took place in 1263 when a Bohemian priest is said to have seen blood coming from the host that he had just consecrated at Mass. Capodimonte on the southwest of the lake is also worth a visit. The lakeside area provides activities for sports and nature enthusiasts all year round. The best way to reach Lago di Bolsena from Rome is by car, as buses to Bolsena from Termini Station are infrequent. LAGO DI BRACCIANO Just north-west of Rome along the Via Cassia, Lake Bracciano is one of the most easily accessible lakes for Romans. The ban on motor boats (except for a little ferry) means it remains an ideal spot for swimming, sailing and canoeing. The Lega Navale operates a dinghy sailing school in Anguillara. Churches and historic sites are located in the three small towns around the lake: Bracciano, Trevignano and Anguillara. There are also places for camping and horse riding tours by the lake, which is just an hour on the Viterbo train line from Rome’s Ostiense station. The lake is overlooked by the 15th-century Orsini-Odescalchi castle in Bracciano, often chosen as the venue for jet-set weddings, and there is also an air force museum at nearby Vigna di Valle. LAGO DI MARTIGNANO This tiny volcanic lake just to the east of Lake Bracciano offers clean water and beaches with scenic views of the surrounding meadows and wildlife. Lago di Martignano is known for its outdoor activities such as horse riding, hiking, mountain biking and swimming. Umbrellas, loungers and luggage storage are available to rent along with canoes, sailboats and windsurfing equipment. It is also known for the hot sulphurous springs surrounding the lake. Arriving at Lago di Martignano by car is the easiest option. Reaching the lake by public transport involves taking the FM3 train to Cesano and opting for either a local bus or taxi.
IB WORLD SCHOOL
A rewarding international education. Ages 2 to 18. Request information! +39 06 84482 651 romeinternationalschool.it
Wanted in Rome • October 2021 | 19
ARTandSEEK Please note that not all of these activites English-language culturaldue workshops visits to are currently open, to theand covid-19 museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For crisis. It is advisable to check websites event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforfor visiting details and make reservation kids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandsebefore going. ekforkids.com. Bioparco Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and offers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it. Bowling Silvestri This sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.
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There are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com. Casa del Parco Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com. Casina di Raffaello Play centre in Villa Borghese offering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Raffaello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadiraffaello.it.
Cinecittà World This 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special effects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it. Climbing Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, Thurs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473. Explora The 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it. Go-karting Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it. Gymboree This children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, offering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it. Hortis Urbis Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it. Il Nido Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.
Luneur Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it. Rainbow Magicland The 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it. Time Elevator A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. The time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it. Zoomarine This amusement and aquatic park outside Rome offers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.
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Rome’s artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant importantstreet street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre. Here is where to is find Rome’s mainthe street artstreet projects murals. from the centre. Here where to find main artand projects and murals around Rome. Esquilino Esquilino Murals Murals byby Alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Pistone, Nicola Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, Diamond. PiazzaMafredo Manfredo Fanti 47. Piazza Fanti 47.
Marconi Marconi The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artistSeth Seth is located in a street artist is located in a former former soap factory Via Antonio soap factory on Viaon Antonio AvogaAvogadro, opposite dro, opposite Ostiense'sOstiense’s landmark Gasometro. For For details see landmark Gasometro. details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com.
Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz Metropoliz This This former former meat meat factory factory inin the the outskirts of Rome is nowa astreet street outskirts of Rome is now art art museumasaswell well as as being museum being home hometoto some200 200squatting squatters,migrants. many of The them some migrants. The Museo dell’Altrodi e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altroveor diMAAM, Metropoliz, or MAAM, Metropoliz, is only open is only open on Saturdays, and on Saturdays, and features the work features the work of more than 300 of more than 300 artists including artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Edoardo Kobra, and GioDiamond. Pistone, Pistone, Sten&Lex See Sten&Lex, Pablo Echaurren and MAAM Facebook page for details. Borondo. See MAAM Via Prenestina 913. Facebook page for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense Ostiense Fronte Del by by Blu.Blu. Via Via del Porto Fronte Del Porto Porto del Fluviale. Porto Fluviale. Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Fluviale. Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Magazzini Shelley by Generali. Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense. Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Pigneto Ostiense. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Pigneto Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.
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Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi. Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Fortebraccio. 2501 mural on Via Blu Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Francesco Baracca. Francesco Baracca. Prati Prati Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo Nuovo Mercato Trionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria. Andrea Doria. theSabotino. bear by Daniza the bear byDaniza ROA. Via ROA. Via Sabotino. Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Magee. Via Via The by Fintan Cristoforo Numai. Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals andand Gio Tunnel muralsby byMr MrTHOMS THOMS Pistone. Via Decio Mure.Mure. Gio Pistone. Via Decio Nido di di Vespe ViaVia del Nido VespebybyLucamaleonte. Lucamaleonte. Monte del Grano. del Monte del Grano. Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89. Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by byBlu. Blu.Via ViaCiciliano Ciciliano and and Via Via Murals Palombini (Casal Palombini (Casaldè dèPazzi). Pazzi). Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station. Metro B station. S.S. Basilio Basilio SanBa SanBa features features large-scale large-scale works on on the façades façades of in the of social-housing social-housingblocks blocks the disadvantaged north-east suburb of in the disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerasuburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. tion project includes works by Italian The project artistsregeneration Agostino Iacurci, Hitnesincludes and Blu works by Italian artists alongside Spain's Liqen. ViaAgostino Maiolati, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Spain’s Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, S. Giovanni Via Treia. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S. Giovanni Apulia corner of Via Farsalo. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.
It’s aa New NewDay Daybyby Alice Pasquini. It’s Alice Pasquini. Via Via Anton Ludovico. Anton Ludovico. S. Lorenzo S. Lorenzo Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Feminicide mural by Elisa Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo. Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi. Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Mural by by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Via Aquilonia. Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia. S. Pietro S. Pietro Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S. di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo. Gallo. Testaccio Testaccio Hunted byby ROA. ViaVia Galvani. HuntedWolf Wolf ROA. Galvani. #KindComments by by Alice Pasquini, Via #KindComments Alice Pasquini, Volta, Testaccio market. Via Volta, Testaccio market. Tor Pignattara Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via ViaAntonio AntonioTempesta. Tempesta. Dulk. Etnik.Via ViaBartolomeo Bartolomeo Perestrello Etnik. Perestrello 51. 51. Coffee Break Etam Cru. Via Coffee Break by Etamby Cru. Via Ludovico Pavoni. Ludovico Pavoni. Tom by Jef Via Gabrio TomSawyer Sawyer by Aerosol. Jef Aerosol. Via Serbelloni. Gabrio Serbelloni. Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema PasoliniVia by Acqua Diavù.Bullicante. Former Cinema Impero, Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Alessi. Herakut. Capua 14. GaleazzoVia Alessi. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Herakut. Via Capua 14. Oddi 6. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia Tor Big Marancia The City Life scheme features 14-m The Big City Life scheme tall murals by 22 Italian and features interna14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and tional street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia andartists Jerico.including The idea international street was to transform area's of Mr Klevra, Seth,the Gaia andblocks Jerico. flats into an open-air art museum. Via The idea was to transform the area’s Tor Marancia. www.bigcity.life.it. blocks of flats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.
Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth. Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.
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ROME'S MAJOR
MUSEUMS PLEASE NOTE THAT NOT ALL OF THESE MUSEUMS ARE CURRENTLY OPEN, DUE TO THE COVID-19 CRISIS. IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS AND MAKE RESERVATION BEFORE GOING.
VATICAN MUSEUMS
Crypta Balbi
Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.
Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia
Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums
Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.
STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian
Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.
Borghese Museum
Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.
Castel S. Angelo Museum
Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine
Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.
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Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian. Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.
MAXXI
Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.
Palazzo Corsini
Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.
Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale
Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.
Palazzo Altemps
Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.
Palazzo Barberini
Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme
Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.
Villa Farnesina
Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.
PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe
CITY MUSEUMS
Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.
Centrale Montemartini
Chiostro Del Bramante
Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.
Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.
Capitoline Museums
Doria Pamphilj Gallery
Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna
Galleria Colonna
Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.
MACRO Asilo
Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space until the end of 2019. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.
Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.
MATTATOIO
Giorgio de Chirico House Museum
Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.
Museo Barracco
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.
Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi
Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.
Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.
Keats-Shelley House
Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.
Museo storico della Liberazione
Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets
Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.
Museo Canonica
Palazzo Merulana
Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).
Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.
Museo Napoleonico
Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.
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PLEASE NOTE THAT NOT ALL OF THESE GALLERIES ARE CURRENTLY OPEN, DUE TO THE COVID-19 CRISIS. IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS AND TO MAKE RESERVATION BEFORE GOING.
ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY
ART GALLERIES
1/9 Unosunove
1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.
A.A.M. Architettura
Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ff-maam.it.
Contemporary Cluster
Visual art, design, architecture, fashion design and beauty apothecary in a 17th-century palace. Via dei Barbieri 7, tel. 0668805928, www.contemporarycluster.com.
C.R.E.T.A.
Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Delfini, Via dei Delfini 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.
Dorothy Circus Gallery
Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.
Ex Elettrofonica
This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.
Fondazione Memmo
Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.
Fondazione Pastificio Cerere
This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.
Fondazione Volume!
The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.
26 | October 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Franz Paludetto
Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.
Frutta
This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.
Gagosian Gallery
The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.
GALLA
Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at affordable prices by artists working in various fields. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.
Galleria Alessandro Bonomo
Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.
Galleria Valentina Bonomo
Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.
Galleria Frammenti D’Arte
Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.
Galleria Lorcan O’Neill
High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.
Galleria della Tartaruga
Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.
Galleria Il Segno
Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.
Wanted in Rome • October 2021 | 27
MAXXI amazes you, always art
architecture design photography cinema
28 | October 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Galleria Mucciaccia
Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.
Galleria Russo
Operativa Arte Contemporanea
A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.
Pian de Giullari
This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.
Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.
Galleria Varsi
Plus Arte Puls
A dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di Grotta Pinta 38, tel. 066865415, www.galleriavarsi.it.
Gavin Brown's Enterprise
New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.
Il Ponte Contemporanea
Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.
RvB ARTS
Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.
Sala 1
Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.
This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.
La Nuova Pesa
S.T. Foto libreria galleria
Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.
MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea
Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.
Magazzino d’Arte Moderna
Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.
Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.
Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri
The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.
T293
Monitor
The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.
Nero Gallery
The Gallery Apart
Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.
This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.
Nomas Foundation
TraleVolte
This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.
Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.
Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.
White Noise Gallery
Based in the S. Lorenzo district, this gallery exhibits unconventional work by young Italian and international artists. Via della Seggiola 9, tel. 066832833, www.whitenoisegallery.it.
Wunderkammern
This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.
Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin
Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it. Wanted in Rome • October 2021 | 29
where to go in Rome
WHAT’S ON S. Ivo alla Sapienza. See Art News page 34.
Wanted in Rome • October 2021 | 31
EXHIBITIONS Museums and archaeological sites in Rome, including the Vatican Museums, are open only to visitors with the covid 'Green Pass' or its equivalent. Most venues require advance booking and the wearing of masks is obligatory. Weekend visits to the more popular sites such as the Colosseum and the Pantheon must be booked at least one day ahead. For visiting details check websites in advance.
INFERNO
15 OCT-9 JAN
Following the success of the Raphael 500 exhibition, the Scuderie del Quirinale returns with a new show marking another important milestone: the 700th anniversary of the death of Dante Alighieri. The exhibition based
Sebastião Salgado at MAXXI. Yanomami shaman talking to the spirits before climbing Mount Pico da Neblina. Amazonas State, Brazil, 2014.
on the first book of The Divine Comedy will comprise more than 200 artworks on loan from 80 museums, public collections and private collections from Italy, the Vatican and across Europe. Inferno will document hell-related iconography from the Middle Ages to the present day, in what is hailed as the first major art exhibition dedicated to this theme. Curated by Jean Clair, the show will take visitors on a terrifying visual journey into the depths of hell,
as imagined by artists through the centuries, accompanied by the words of Dante. These visions range from the tormented and nightmarish to the romanticised, from Mediaeval to Baroque, up to psychoanalytic interpretations from the 20th century. The exhibition also presents scenes of “hell on earth” and delves into the concept of salvation, as offered by Dante in the last canto of the Inferno Canticle: “…And so we went out to see the stars again.” During the show’s first weeks, visitors will be able to gaze into the Abyss of Hell by Botticelli, on loan from the Vatican, together with a scale plaster cast model of Rodin’s Gates of Hell from the Musée Rodin in Paris. There will be other masterpieces too, by artists including Beato Angelico, Botticelli, Bosch, Bruegel, Cézanne, Delacroix, Goya, Kiefer, Manet, Richter and Rodin. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 16, www.scuderiequirinale.it.
TOKUHIRO KAWAI AND JEFFREY CHONG WANG 16 OCT-NOV
Inferno at Scuderie del Quirinale. Pieter Huys Inferno, 1570. © Museo Nacional del Prado.
32 | October 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Dorothy Circus, a prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art, presents a double exhibition by two artists: Beijing-raised and Canada-based Jeffrey Chong Wang and Japan’s Tokuhiro Kawai. The gallery says that Kawai draws from classical Renaissance themes to elaborate surreal fairytales while Chong Wang gains inspiration from Romanticism to create cinematographic reflections. Dorothy Circus Gallery, Via dei Pettinari 76, www. dorothycircusgallery.it.
SEBASTIAO SALGADO 1 OCT-13 FEB
The celebrated photojournalist Sebastião Salgado provides a black and white photographic journey through the Brazilian Amazon, after he spent six years capturing images of the forest, the rivers, the mountains and the people who live there. MAXXI, Italy’s national museum of 21st-century arts, presents Salgado’s 200 photographs against a soundscape of sounds recorded in the forests and created by Jean-Michel Jarre - feauring the rustling of trees, birdsong, the shrieks of animals, and the roar of waterfalls. The exhibition highlights the fragility of this ecosystem, showing that in the protected areas where the indigenous communities live the forest has suffered almost no damage. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.
RIA LUSSI: WHO IS AFRAID OF PINK? 30 SEPT-13 NOV
Maja Arte Contemporanea presents a show by the Rome-based Milan artist Ria Lussi, the final stage of the gallery’s two-year cycle of exhibitions dedicated to female artists. With her collection of ironic and playful self-portraits, Lussi challenges the current gender disparity through permutations of her “Rose” series painted on round-shaped canvases. Maja Arte Contemporanea, Via di Monserrato 30, www. majartecontemporanea.com.
Big Mutter, a large hot water bottle with legs, while other pieces include Fat House and sculptures of suitcases with legs. The exhibition, which runs until 14 November, is Wurm’s first urban installation in Rome.
DAMIEN HIRST AT GALLERIA BORGHESE 8 JUNE-7 NOV
Galleria Borghese – home to masterpieces by Bernini, Canova and Caravaggio – presents the works of contemporary British artist Damien Hirst in a new exhibition titled Archaeology Now. The show includes more than 80 works from Hirst’s Treasures from the Wreck of the Unbelievable series, featuring monumental and smallscale sculptures made from bronze, rock crystal, coral and Carrara marble. Also on display in the Rome exhibition, curated by Anna Coliva and Mario Codognato, are Hirst’s Colour Space paintings, exhibited in Italy for the first time. Held with the support of luxury fashion house Prada, the exhibition will see Hirst’s colossal sculpture, Hydra and Kali, displayed outdoors in the Secret Garden of the Uccelliera. Galleria Borghese says the installation stems from Hirst’s Treasures from the Wreck of the Unbelievable, exhibited for the first time in 2017 in Venice at Palazzo Grassi and Punta della Dogana. Retracing his colourful career, the Rome retrospective highlights the multimedia approach of the
Ria Lussi at Maja Arte Cotemporanea. La rosa giocosa.
British artist who is known for his provocative art charged with social commentary. Reservations obligatory, via Galleria Borghese website. Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5, tel. 068413979, www.galleriaborghese. beniculturali.it.
ALL ABOUT BANKSY: EXHIBITION 2 5 MAY-9 JAN
Chiostro del Bramante presents ALL about BANKSY, a new exhibition dedicated to the anonymous British street artist whose powerful, satirical and thought-provoking murals are celebrated around the world. The show, which follows an earlier Banksy exhibition, features about 250 artworks from private collections. Chiostro del Bramante, Via Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www. chiostrodelbramante.it.
ERWIN WURM 25 SEPT-14 NOV
Rome’s Via Veneto has been filled with large-scale artworks by the Austrian artist Erwin Wurm in an open-air exhibition that opens on 25 September. The elegant street, synonymous with Rome’s ‘dolce vita’ era of in the 1960s, is currently home to 14 installations thanks to the Via Veneto Contemporanea project, curated by Catherine Löwe. Wurm’s semi-abstract sculptures, which present mundane objects in a new surprising light, are dotted along Via Veneto and in front of the Aurelian walls. Framed by the ancient arch of the Porta Pinciana is
Fat House by Erwin Wurm on Via Veneto.
Wanted in Rome • October 2021 | 33
ART NEWS ROME RESTORES BORROMINI'S S. IVO ALLA SAPIENZA
The Roman church of S. Ivo alla Sapienza, a masterpiece of Baroque archiecture by Francesco Borromini, has undergone the first phase of a major restoration and safety project following earthquake damage five years ago. The special superintendence of Rome is overseeing the restoration of the magnificent church complex designed by Borromini between 1643 and 1660 for the city's ancient La Sapienza University. The restored areas include Borromini's longinaccessible corridor linking Palazzo della Sapienza with Piazza S. Eustachio, as well as many rooms including the great hall of the Alessandrina Library. The second phase of the works is underway, with funding earmarked for the restoration of the church interior, in a project that began after structural damage was caused by the 6.5-magnitude earthquake that struck Norcia in Italy's central Umbria region on 30 October 2016. Rarely opened to the public, S. Ivo is today home to state archives of Rome and is located on Corso Rinascimento, close to the Italian senate, near Piazza Navona. Borromini based his unique geometrical design around the cramped 16th-century cortile, or courtyard, designed by Giacomo della Porta, employing concave and convex surfaces in his designs which also feature decorative elements linked to the three popes under which the building was constructed. These included the bees of Urban VIII Barberini, the dove of Innocent X Pamphili and the stars of Alexander VII Chigi. S. Ivo alla Sapienza
34 | October 2021 • Wanted in Rome
ROME'S ALL NEW CINEMA TROISI REOPENS
In an age when many cinemas are closing, hampered by streaming platforms and covid restrictions, Rome is bucking the trend. A refurbished, state-of-the-art Cinema Troisi opened its doors on 21 September in the Trastevere district with the Italian premiere of the 'body horror' thriller Titane. Behind the ambitious venture are the Ragazzi del Cinema America, the collective of young cinema aficionados best known for organising free outdoor movie screenings in the summer, both in Piazza S. Cosimato and in the outskirts of the city. Their latest project has seen them invest €1.5 million in refurbishing Cinema Troisi, named after the late, muchloved Italian actor Massimo Troisi, star of Il Postino. According to Variety, the association obtained the funds from "a combination of national and local government grants and sponsors" and received a 10-year lease on the city-owned building by winning a public tender. Valerio Cocci, the collective's president, told Variety that the cinema will have "a multi-programming schedule showing four different films a day, including thematic retros, presentations, and children’s workshops.” The programme will also include films screened in their original language with Italian subtitles. Located on Via Girolamo Induno 1, the movie theatre is equipped with the latest cutting-edge technology too, including 4K and a Dolby 7.1 surround sound system. There is also be a study room with free wi-fi, open around the clock, and a rooftop terrace that will be used for events. In a smart branding move, the cinema's 300 seats will be the same maroon colour as the t-shirts worn by the collective and their many fans. Andy Devane
OPERA MILAN IL BARBIERE DI SIVIGLIA BY GIOACHINO ROSSINI 30 SEPT-15 OCT
This new production is conducted by Riccardo Chailly and directed by Leo Muscato. Muscato has recently directed Agrippina by Handel for the Bonn Theatre Opera. This is Muscato's first opera at La Scala. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.
IL TURCO IN ITALIA BY GIOACHINO ROSSINI 13-25 OCT
Conducted by Diego Fasolis, directed by Roberto Andò. Erwin Schrott sings the part of Selim, Rosa Feola of Donna Fiorilla, Giulio Mastrototaro of Don Geronio. Rossini's opera buffa was influenced by Mozart's Cosi fan tutte, which was performed at Teatro alla Scala in 1814, just before Rossini's work. In 1955 Maria Callas sang Fiorilla in a production by Franco Zeffirelli. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.
LA CALISTO FRANCESCO CAVALLI 30 OCT-13 NOV
This early opera has been added to the La Scala repertoire, conducted by Christofe Rousset, directed by David McVicar. Francesco Cavalli was a composer of the early Baroque period. He wrote 41 operas, many of which are now lost. Unlike Monteverdi, who wrote for the court at Mantua, Cavalli concentrated on popular opera for public opera houses. His operas capture characters from myth and popular culture. La Calisto was first performed in 1651 at the Teatro S. Apollinare in Venice. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.
36 | October 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Michele Gamba conducts Donizetti L'Elisir d'Amore at La Scala.
L'ELISIR D'AMORE BY DONIZETTI
JULIUS CAESAR BY GIORGIO BATTISTELLI
This light-hearted opera is conducted by Michele Gamba and directed by Grisha Asagaroff. It marks the debut of Aida Garifullina, the Russian lyric soprano, as Adina, with Carlos Alvarez in his first buffo role at La Scala and Davide Luciano as Belcore. Gamba has worked with Antonio Pappano at the Royal Opera House Convent Garden and Daniel Barenboim. He first conducted L'Elisir D'Amore at La Scala in 2019. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.
The opera has been commissioned by the Teatro dell'Opera di Roma. It will be conducted by Daniele Gatti and directed by Robert Carsen. Battistelli is an Italian composer of contemporary classical music and has composed 20 operas, including one based on Mary Shelley's Frankenstein and CO2 based on Al Gore's Inconvenient Truth. Battistelli's Julius Caesar, based on Shakespeare's play, is a world premiere. Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.
9-23 NOV
20-28 NOV
ACQUAPROFONDA 3-7 DEC
ROME GIOVANNA D’ARCO BY GIUSEPPE VERDI 19-26 Oct
Conducted by Daniele Gatti, music director of the Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, this is a new production by director Davide Livermore. Nino Machaidze sings the part of Giovanna, Francesco Meli of Carlo VII, Roberto Frontali of Giacomo and Dmitry Beloselskiy of Talbot. Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.
A new opera with music by Giovanni Solima and the libretto by Giancarlo De Cataldo. The opera, about the pollution of the sea, is dedicated to young children and has been commissioned by the Teatro dell'Opera di Roma and the Teatro Sociale di Como as part of the Progetto Opera Domani. Conducted by Carlo Donadio and directed by Luis Ernesto Donas. Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www. operaroma.it.
Classical ROME ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA ROMANA Enrico Dindo has been appointed the new artistic director of the Filarmonica Romana from Jan 2022. Keep looking at the Accademia's website www.filarmonicaromana. org for its October programmes and Teatro Argentina for many of its concerts, www.teatrodiroma.net. 2 Oct. Alessandro Simoni piano, performs music by Rachmaninov and Liszt. 1, 3 Oct. Duo Gibboni. Annastella Gibboni and Donatella Gibboni violins, play music by Boccherini, Viotti, Prokofiev and others. Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118, www.filarmonicaromana.org.
ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA 7-9 Oct. The inaugural concert by S. Cecilia's new principal guest conductor Jakub Hruša. He is conducting Mahler's Resurrection symphony. The Czech conductor has been appointed for a three-year term and will conduct at least three productions each season. Hruša, who has often conducted in Rome, is the chief conductor of the Bamberger Symphoniker and the guest conductor of the Weiner and Berliner Philharmoniker and the Chicago symphony orchestra. 13-16 Oct. Kirill Petrenko conducts the S. Cecilia Orchestra playing Mendelssohn's Calm Sea and and Prosperous Voyage, Brahms piano concerto 2 and Debussy La mer with Boris Giltburg as the piano soloist. 18 Oct. Ivo Pogorelich in recital playing music by Chopin and Schubert. 23 Oct. Maxim Emelyanychev conducts music by Adams, Schumann and Brahms with Kian Soltani cello. Emelyanchev is a young Russian conductor and the Austrian-Iranian Soltani has been the principal cellist
38 | October 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Pianist Gloria Campaner opens the new season at Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti.
in Daniel Barenboim's West-Eastern Divan Orchestra. 25 Oct. Mario Brunello and Giovanni Sollima. These two cellists play music by Stravinsky, Bertali, BachDerevianko, Costanzi, Sollima and Queen. 28-30 Oct. Phillippe Herreweghe conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra playing music by Schumann and Mendelssohn with Alexander Lonquich piano. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P de Coubertin 36, www.santacecilia. it/en/.
ISTITUTO UNIVERSITARIA DEI CONCERTI The Istituto Universitario dei Concerti has published its calendar of events from October to December. It inaugurates its season with a new chamber orchestra Orchestra da Camera Canova conducted by its founder Enrico Saverio Pagano which will be in residence for the coming season.
ORCHESTRA DA CAMERA CANOVA
1-2 OCT This new chamber orchestra will perform Beethoven's symphony no 7 and the Emperor concerto with soloist Goria Campaner, who made her debut with the Venice symphony orchestra when she was 12. She focused her studies on the Russian school under Konstantin Bogino. In 2014 she was the first Italian female musician to be awarded a fellowship by the Borletti Buitoni Trust in London, and in 2017 she was resdent at the Marlboro Festival in Vermont alongside Mitsuko Uchida and Leon Fleisher.
SERATA BOHEME 5 OCT
The young students of Raina Kabaivanska sing arias and duets from La Boheme. Giuseppe Infantino tenor, Marily Santor soprano, Aleksandrina Mihaylova soprano, Cesare Kwon baritone, Marco Scolastra piano.
ABSOLUTE STRAVINSKY 12 OCT
To mark the 50th anniersary of the death of Stranvinsky. The Ensemble Novecento e Oltre with the Orchestra da camera di Brescia play music by Stravinsky. Conducted by Antonio Ballista piano and with the special participation of Bruno Canino.
ASSOLUTAMENTE...ENNIO MORRICONE 16 OCT
Luca Pincini cello, Gilda Butta piano and Paolo Zampini flute, play music by Morricone.
PAHUD, MANSON, PINNOCK 19 OCT
This talented trio of Emmanuel Pahud flute, Jonathan Manson cello and Trevor Pinnock harpsichord perform music by Bach and Telemann.
Schumann's Concert sans Orchestra as well as music by Bach, Faure and Scriabin.
CONCERT WITHOUT ORCHESTRA
30 OCT
26 OCT
French pianist Lucas Debargue plays
DANTE - BERIO - MONTEVERDI To mark the 700th anniversary of the death of Dante the Conservatorio
G.B.Martini, the Bologna Festival and Ferrara Musica have produced a programme of music, voice and dance by Berio and Monteverdi. IUC concerts are in the Aula Magna Università la Sapienza, www. concertiiuc.it/eventi.
DANCE MILAN
TEATRO ALLA SCALA MADINA 1-14 OCT
This work was commissioned by La Scala and is the world premiere. It is based on the novel by Emmanuelle de Villepin, La ragazza che non voleva morire. Choreography by Mauro Bigonzetti with Roberto Bolle, AnnaDoris Capitelli mezzo soprano, tenor Chuan Wang and actor Fabrizio Falco. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammtici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.
ROME
TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA There don't appear to be any dance events at the Teatro dell'Opera until the classic Christmas ballet,The Nutcracker from 19 Dec-2 Jan. Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operadiroma.it.
ROMAEUROPA FESTIVAL THE KÖLN CONCERT TRAJAL HARRELL 2-3 OCT
Trajal Harrell is in the forefront of American contemporary dance. The Köln Concert with seven dancers is created to the music of the same name by Keith Jarrett and Joni Mitchell. This piece was first commissioned for the Schauspielhaus Zurich. It is a combination of dance and theatre,
In Lavagem Alice Ruspoli explores the problem of what can be cleaned away. Romaeuropa Festival.
with am emphasis on the strict rules of distance and caution. Teatro Argentina.
WABI-SABI / REVA SOFIA NAPPI, SOSTA PALMIZI 6-7 OCT
Sofia Nappi is an acclaimed international choreographer who graduated from the Alvin Ailey American Dance Theatre. She is the cofounder of the Komoco project which is supported by Sosta Palmizi, one of the first contemporary dance companies in Italy. The two choreographies by Nappi, Wabi-Savi and Reva, focus on the transience of things, our constant dissatisfaction and our search for beauty within imperfection. This is the national premiere for both pieces. Teatro Biblioteca Quarticcioli, Via Castellaneta 10.
SET OF SETS 8-9 OCT
SET OF SETS explores the boundaries of dance and action with Guy Nader
(Lebanon) and Maria Campos (Spain). Cooperation, precision and rigour are the keywords for the seven dancers of this piece. Auditorium Parco della Musica. Sala Petrassi, Via Pietro de Coubertin 30.
FUNNY SOFT HAPPY & THE OPPOSITE 13-14 OCT
How do we as individuals and groups relate to a world in which compassion and caring are endangered? Choreographer Connor Schumacher explores the possibilities with six dancers in his new piece. Teatro Vascello, Via Gacinto Carini 78.
QUEL CHE RESTA 15-16 OCT
Simona Bertozzi presents her new site specific creation. Mattatoio, Teatro 2, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4.
PLI
15 OCT
Choreographer and dancer Viktor Wanted in Rome • October 2021 | 39
Cernicky reflects on the relationship of the body and objects. Mattatoio, Teatro 1, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4.
ARA! ARA! 16-17 OCT
Gineva Panzetti and Enrico Ticcino explore power sharing using national flag as symbol of power. Mattatoio Teatro 1, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4.
LAVAGEM 19-22 OCT
Alice Ripoli has created a work between reality and fantasy and investigates the process of cleaning with buckets, water and soap. What is it that can be cleaned away? Teatro India, Sala B, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1.
MAILLES
29-30 OCT
In Dorothee Munyaneza's choreography six women from different areas of the world and different cultures attempt to exorcise the wrongs and memories the have suffered and examine the question of female freedom. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Petrassi, Via Pietro de Coubertin 30.
THEATRE CALENDAR LADIES 1-3 OCT
With Italy’s theatres back in business, English-language theatrical companies in Rome are once again treading the boards and Arts in English will bring Calendar Ladies to the stage on 1, 2 and 3 October at Teatro degli Eroi. The play is based on the true story of a group of ordinary English ladies who ‘pulled off’ something extraordinary in the name of charity, which later became a smash hit film (Calendar Girls) starring Helen Mirren and Julie Walters. Their friendships,
40 | October 2021 • Wanted in Rome
In Mailles six women try to exorcise the wrongs and torments they have suffered. Romaeuropa Festival.
UNAUTHORISED
study. Mattatoio, Teatro 1, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4.
Iris Karaya's choreography is inspired by pop music and video clips of Muhammad Ali and John McEnroe. She looks at the way the body is represented in sport and pop culture. Mattatoio, Teatro 2, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4.
EL HERMOSOMISTERIO QUE NOS UNE
30-31 OCT
MY BODY 30-31 OCT
Stefania Tansini presents the completion of her DNAppunti Coreografici 2020 award winning
lives and characters are all under the spotlight in this hilarious piece of true theatre. Arts in English was set up in 2005 by Ailleen C. Moir to showcase international dance, theatre and musical productions, often with a young cast. To reserve your place email artsinenglish@outlook.com with your preferred date and number of seats. Green Pass required. Teatro degli Eroi, Via Girolamo Savonarola, 36/m.
CURTAIN UP! 1-3 OCT
The Rome Savoyards & Plays in Rome present Curtain Up! by Peter Quilter, an English-language production directed by Sandra Provost, at Teatro Le Salette. The play, described as a “topical, delightful comedy,” charts
2-4 NOV
The Spanish choreographer and dancer Jesu Rubio Gamo returns to the festival with a new work which reflects on the strength of creativity even during isolation and loneliness, to the music of Bach and Purcel. Teatro Vascello, Via Giaconto Carini 78. For the full Romaeuropa Festival see www.romaeuropa.net.
the hilarious story of five women who inherit equal shares in a dilapidated theatre and plan to bring it back to life again.” The production comes as the Rome Savoyards celebrate their 40th anniversary and the cast includes Fabiana De Rose, Shelagh Stuchbery, Rosie Hillesley, Camilla Mazzitelli and Elizabeth Christy. Shows will be held at Teatro Le Salette on 1 October at 19.30 and 2-3 October at 17.30. The theatre is located on Vicolo del Campanile 14 (between Borgo Pio and Via della Conciliazione), a 10-minute walk from the nearest metro stop, Ottaviano. Booking is mandatory, as is the Green Pass. Seating is distanced in accordance with covid-19 safety provisions. For booking and further information contact playsinrome@ yahoo.com or tel. 3478248661.
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Wanted in Rome | December 2017
lassical lassical
The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city. The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city. There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums. Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All
concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica. Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza,
Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone 32a, RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome.
often concerts, festivals and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com
Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and7 the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards. Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com 5042 | Oct 2018 • Wanted Rome in Rome | September 2021 •inWanted
MUSIC MUSIC THEATR THEATRE CINEMA CINEMA VENUES VENUES
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The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wantedshow in Rome website for The following cinemas movies in English weekly updates. or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for Adriano, Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 weeklyPiazza updates. Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 0686391361 Barberini, Piazza BarberiniMastroianni 24-26, 1, tel. Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello 0686391361 tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it
Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 068553485 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 068553485 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 066861068 Odeon, Piazza Stefano 22, tel. Nuovo Sacher, LargoJacini Ascianghi 1, 0686391361 tel. 065818116
Space Moderno, Piazza della 44, tel. Odeon, Piazza Stefano JaciniRepubblica 22, tel. 0686391361 06892111 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec06892111 chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111
ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance
Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it
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Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
op
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Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.
Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it
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Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731, Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it
heatre heatre
Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro 06684000314,www.teatrodiroma.net ww 06684000314, T Teatro Argentina, di Torre Argentina 52, tel. TeatroBelli, Belli,Piazza diLargo Teatro 06684000314, ww S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net ww www.teatrobelli.it T Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Teatro Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 ww Brancaccio, www.teatrobelli.it ww www.teatrobrancaccio.it T Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione,Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro ww Ghione, www.teatrobrancaccio.it ww www.teatroghione.it T Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. ww www.teatroghione.it 06684000311,www.teatrodiroma.net ww 06684000311, T Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311,www.teatrodiroma.net ww 06684000311, 50 | Jan 2019 • Wanted in Rome
Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel. 14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Wanted in • September | 43 51 Rome | Oct 2018 • Wanted2021 in Rome
TEATRO COSTANZI OCTOBER 17 - 24
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46 | September 2021 • Wanted in Rome
gorski
a By Kate Z
PIZZA MARGHERITA
HOW TO MAKE GREAT PIZZA AT HOME Making your own pizza from scratch is a surefire way to impress and is a fun activity to do with friends and family. This recipe is a simple way to make great pizza at home using a domestic kitchen oven and, while the result may not be exactly like a real Roman pizzeria, it allows you to unleash your creativity and add whatever toppings you choose. Although the process of making the dough and leaving it to rise takes a while, this can be done in advance, so the actual topping and cooking of the pizza takes a matter of minutes. Cooking the base by itself for a few minutes before turning it over and adding the toppings will ensure a crunchy, non-soggy, crust, as will draining as much liquid as possible out of the mozzarella before using. The quantities below will make enough pizza for about 4 people, but you can use whatever size and shape of metal baking tin you have at home.
For the base: 500g flour 00 1 x 7g sachet of dried yeast 3 pinches of salt 1 pinch of sugar 350ml water Extra virgin olive oil
For the topping: 4 x 250g balls of mozzarella (fior di latte) 1 large jar of tomato passata Fresh basil leaves Sieve the flour into a large bowl. Add the yeast, salt and sugar and pour in the water. Mix everything together with a fork, once the dough starts to come together, tip it onto a floured board or work surfaced. Continue to knead with your hands, constantly pushing the dough back onto itself, until you have a soft, elastic consistency. If the dough is too wet, add a little flour; if it is too dry add a little more water or a drop of olive oil. In a clean bowl pour in about 4 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil. Place the ball of dough into the bowl, cover with plastic cling film and put the bowl into the oven (turned off) or a dark cupboard. Leave it to prove for at least 3 hours until the dough has doubled in size. Once the dough has risen, tip it back onto a floured surface along with the oil. Knead it well until the texture is smooth and soft. Divide the dough into pieces (the size depends on the baking tins you have and how thick you want the base of your pizza) and leave it to rest while you prepare the topping. Turn the oven on to heat to its highest temperature. Pour the passata into a bowl, add a splash of olive oil and a pinch of salt and mix well. Cut the mozzarella into cubes and use your hands to squeeze out as much liquid as possible to ensure that the pizza will not be soggy. Grease the baking tins with olive oil. Push the dough into the tins using your hands, try not to create any holes. Put the pizza into the lowest part of the oven and cook for 5-8 minutes then turn the base over in the tin. Spread the passata over the pizza and add some mozzarella and a drizzle of olive oil then place the pizza back into the low shelf of the oven for about 5 more minutes until the edges are crispy and the mozzarella has melted. Add a few fresh basil leaves and serve immediately.
Coromandel, Via di Monte Giordano 60/61, tel. 0668802461. Dolce, Via Tripolitania 4, tel. 0686215696. Ketumbar, Via Galvani 24, tel. 0657305338. ‘Na Cosetta, Via Ettore Giovenale 54, tel. 0645598326.
Indirizzi
Queen Makeda, Via di S. Saba 11, tel. 065759608.
Ciclostazione Frattini, Via Pietro Frattini 136/138, tel. 065503707. Atlas Coelestis, Via Malcesine 41, tel. 0635072243. Porto Fluviale, Via del Porto Fluviale 22, tel. 065743199. Rosti al Pigneto, Via Bartolomeo D’Alviano 65, tel. 062752608. Doppiozero, Via Ostiense 68, tel. 0657301961. Misto, Via Fezzan 21, tel. 0645471971. Il Bistrot delle Officine Farneto, Via dei Monti della Farnesina 77, tel. 0690286945. Mavi, Lungotevere di Pietra Papa 201, tel. 065584801.
Where to brunch in Rome Our picks of the best restaurants and cafes serving brunch on weekends – from Eggs Benedict to American-style pancakes. QUEEN MAKEDA GRAND PUB Each Sunday Queen Makeda offers an international brunch of dishes from the wok, noodles, salads, eggs, homemade tarts, vegetables, baked potatoes, artisan sausages and wurstel. There’s also the option of a British-style Sunday roast lunch, which includes beef, chicken, lamb, pork and Yorkshire puddings. Don’t miss the desserts, the 40 different craft beers available, the juices and the tasty nonalcoholic drinks. On the children’s menu (there’s also a supervised kids’ play area) you’ll find burgers, chips, tomato pasta and hot dogs. Sun 12.30-16.00. COROMANDEL Located near Piazza Navona, this cafe recreates the feel of a cosy 1950s home. If you fancy English-style eggs or pancakes for breakfast, then this is your place. On the menu you’ll find: simple eggs, omelette with roast potatoes and sausage, and either pancakes with bacon and maple syrup, scrambled eggs, maple syrup and icing sugar, or sweet pancakes with chocolate and hazelnut sauce, banana and flaked almonds. There are also smoothies, yogurt and fruit. Sat-Sun from 11.00-15.00. DOLCE For a New York-style Sunday brunch, head to Dolce, the restaurant and bakery in the Africano district. The kitchen is transformed into a bakery with a menu brimming with international cuisine. From eggs to pancakes, or even to sandwiches, sweet and savoury are placed side by side. You can choose between an omelette with three fillings of your choice, or an Eggs Benedict on toasted bread baked in-house. Sun 12.00-15.00. KETUMBAR Ketumbar’s organic brunch, served at weekends, is the talk of Testaccio. There’s a buffet ranging from antipasti to cakes and pastries, that changes seasonally. There are also many different soups, cous cous, dark taragna polente, fritters, hummus, cod au gratin, granary focaccia, salads and vegan dishes. The menu is accompanied by organic wine and artisan beers. At Ketumbar, brunch is also baby-friendly. There’s a kid’s menu and a space dedicated to young children, cared for by qualified minders. Sat-Sun 12.30-16.00. ‘NA COSETTA In this Italian bistro in Pigneto, you can enjoy brunch, otherwise known in Italian as the ‘colanzo’. Dishes are both sweet and savoury and stick to a true Italian style with a few of the chef’s special touches. Pastries and cakes are made by pastry chef Stefania Guerrizio. Sun 12.30-16.00. CICLOSTAZIONE FRATTINI If you’re on the hunt for a place in the Portuense district where you can sit outside and let your kids run about, Ciclostazione Frattini should be your go-to brunch spot. A restaurant, pizzeria and grill, here the whole family can have fun in the indoor Baby Garden and Baby Park. The menu includes more than 30 options, ranging from fresh artisan pasta to homemade cakes and desserts. There are main courses such as meat and fish dishes, soups, cooked vegetables, salads, and cheeses. Sat-Sun 12.30-15.30.
ATLAS COELESTIS Here you can choose between ten different dishes, from antipasti to dessert, which change weekly. There are also roselline di pizza (baked pizza in the shape of roses) to taste, as the restaurant has reopened its pizza oven and in the evening it serves pizzas made with wholewheat flour. On the kid’s menu you’ll find three different options for the main meal and ice cream for dessert. Sun 12.30. PORTO FLUVIALE This crowded Ostiense restaurant offers a buffet brunch menu containing around 60 dishes: hot and cold pasta dishes, soups, raw salads and cooked vegetable dishes, meats, and cheeses served with a variety of tasty dips and sauces. Don’t forget to try the delicious pastries and cakes. Sat-Sun 12.30-16.00. ROSTI AL PIGNETO If you feel like spending the weekend outside in a huge garden suitable for children, Rosti is the place for you. For starters you can tuck into the gnocchi with tomato and basil sauce, cannelloni with ricotta and tomato, ravioli with burrata, tomato and basil, or vegetarian crepes. For main course there’s seasoned meat balls, veal steak with mushrooms, roast pork with honey, turkey nuggets with yoghurt and mustard, anchovies marinated in tarragon and chilli, or cod balls with tomato, as well as salads and desserts. Sat-Sun 12.30-16.00. DOPPIOZERO Here you can enjoy a tasty brunch that benefits from its onsite bakery. The buffet at the weekend includes pasta, pizza (many different types), olive bread, cous cous, salmon, meat, buffalo mozarella and baked goods such as muffins and brownies. Sat-Sun 12.30-15.30. MISTO Located in the Africano district, Misto serves club sandwiches, pancakes, muffins, salads, and seasonal fruits made into juices and smoothies. You can choose one dish from a choice of three: the club sandwich, fillet of salmon or veggie sandwich and then add either pancakes or a salad, then choose between a savoury muffin or Scottish scone, and select a fruit juice. Kids can enjoy either a savoury muffin or Scottish scone, pancakes, fruit salad or orange or blueberry juice. We also recommend trying one of the alcoholic fruit cocktails or a pomegranate spritz. Sun 11.30-15.30. IL BISTROT DELLE OFFICINE FARNETO Every Sunday you can tuck into a tasty brunch at the bistro in Officine Farneto, on Via Monti della Farnesina. The dishes range from homemade fresh pasta to meat and fish courses, cooked vegetables and desserts. We recommend the freshly-prepared burgers. Sun from 12.30. MAVI At Mavi you can enjoy a brunch that’s a little different – part buffet, part à la carte. On the buffet you’ll find eggs, savoury pancakes and many different salad recipes, while from the menu you can order dishes such as burgers, bagels, cakes and sweet pancakes. The buffet includes coffee, water and fruit juice. Sun 13.00-16.00.
www.puntarellarossa.it
Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com
International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com
Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it
Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com
Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)
50 | September 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30
Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00
Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680
Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it
52 | September 2021 • Wanted in Rome
St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022
Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606
Emergency numbers • • • • • • •
Ambulance tel. 118 Carabinieri tel. 112 Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 Fire brigade tel. 115 Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 Police tel. 113 Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355
