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THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME
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SMILE BACK ON ITALY'S FACE Andy Devane
8. THE MUSES WHO INSPIRED THE GRAND TOUR ARTISTS
Margaret Stenhouse
14. BEACHES NEAR ROME 16. LAKES AROUND ROME 18. ROME FOR children 20. STREET ART guide 22. MUSEUMS 24. ART GALLERIES 42. CULTURAL VENUES 47. RECIPE 48. puntarella rossa 50. USEFUL NUMBERS
DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 PROGETTO GRAFICO: Dali Studio Srl IMPAGINAZIONE: Simona Castellari STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 31/08/2021
THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME
Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 13, Numero 8 SEPTEMBER 2021 | € 2,00
4. SPORT AND MUSIC PUT A
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30. EXHIBITIONS 32. ART news 34. OPERA 36. Classical 37. Dance 39. Festivals
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ENTS 4
SPORT AND MUSIC PUT A SMILE BACK ON ITALY'S FACE
8
39
THE MUSES WHO INSPIRED THE GRAND TOUR ARTISTS
festivalS
32 ART NEWS
Pop Culture
SPORT AND MUSIC PUT A SMILE BACK ON ITALY'S FACE FROM EUROVISION TO EURO 2020 AND THE OLYMPICS, IT WAS A SUMMER THAT ITALY WILL NEVER FORGET Andy Devane
A
country’s darkest days are often summed up by a single image that remains imprinted on the collective psyche long after the event. In modern Italian times, this image is arguably a convoy of army trucks driving coffins out of Bergamo when the city’s morgues could no longer cope with the number of coronavirus deaths. Fast-forward 16 months later and a triumphant motorcade of beeping cars, celebrating the crowning of the Azzurri as Euro 2020 champions, paraded down the same road. Draghi effect Many Italians trace the new sense of optimism
Måneskin lifted Italy's spirits by winning the Eurovision.
4 | September 2021 • Wanted in Rome
back to the arrival of Mario Draghi as prime minister of Italy in February of this year. The former head of the European Central Bank (ECB) helped to restore Italy’s credibility in the European markets, in what has become known as the ‘Draghi effect,’ as well as unveiling major investments and ambitious reforms, bankrolled by billions of EU funds. Draghi’s arrival came after a year in which the country’s spirit was shaken by the covid-19 pandemic and lockdowns, its people deflated by a wave of psychological and economic turmoil. Over the last few months, aside from witnessing the slow shoots of recovery, Italians received a welcome boost from the popular worlds of music and sport.
The Azzurri celebrating the Euro 2020 victory in Wembley Stadium.
Eurovision
Tennis
It all began in May from a most unlikely source – the Eurovision Song Contest – an event that normally is of little interest to Italians who prefer to tune in to their own in-house version of the competition, Sanremo.
Hot on the heels of Måneskin’s triumph came the rise of Rome tennis champion Matteo Berrettini who became the first Italian to reach the men’s single finals in Wimbledon.
Måneskin, a young glam-rock band from Rome, clinched the nation’s first Eurovision victory in more than three decades with the song Zitti e Buoni, leading to a surge in national pride. The international media lauded the leather-clad rockers who just a couple of years earlier were busking on Via del Corso, the capital’s main street. The band’s success story captured the hearts of Italians, particularly after The New York Times ran a story about Måneskin being on the cusp of conquering the world.
In the end the 25-year-old Berrettini was beaten by world number 1 Novak Djokovic, but it didn’t matter. “Matteo, Matteo....” rang out the chant from the crowd as the young Berrettini dominated the award ceremony crowd after the match with his spontaneous speech in perfect English. History had been made. “Rome is proud of you” – wrote the city’s mayor Virginia Raggi – “You were a lion on the court.” That day – Sunday 11 July – was a nervewracking one for Italian sports fans. Romans left the beach early, hurrying back in time for the Euro 2020 football final in which Italy was to meet England that evening.
The prediction was not too far wrong as within weeks the musicians reached Number 1 in the global charts on streaming platform Spotify with their cover of Beggin’, as well as breaking into the UK Top 10 and cutting a single with their idol Iggy Pop.
And in London Berrettini hurried across the city, travelling the 20 kilometres or so from Wimbledon to Wembley to watch the Azzurri do battle with England on their home turf.
During a subsequent award ceremony in Rome’s city hall the rockers delighted their fans by announcing an open-air concert in the Circus Maximus next July.
The Roman tennis star was met in Wembley by Italian president Sergio Mattarella who had unexpectedly flown to London for the big game. The head of state endeared himself further
Euro 2020
Wanted in Rome • September 2021 | 5
Pop Culture Within minutes of Jacobs’ victory, Italian Gianmarco Tamberi shared a rare Olympic athletics gold medal in the high jump with Qatar’s Mutaz Barshim. It was all a bit much for Italy to take in. Other golds came rolling in too. Rowers Federica Cesarini and Valentina Rodini came first in the women’s lightweight double sculls, while Ruggero Tita and Caterina Banti won gold in the Nacra 17 mixed class sailing. Marcell Jacobs became the first Italian to win gold in the 100m sprint at the Olympics.
to Italians after his joyous celebration when Leonardo Bonucci struck the back of the night in the 67th minute, to equalise with England. The sight of Mattarella briefly letting his hair down quickly became an internet sensation back home. The match went to extra time and penalties, with Italy emerging victorious. The win sent the nation into a delirium not seen since the Italians won the World Cup in 2006. Music fills Piazza Navona That night, a young guitarist played Queen’s We Are The Champions on an electric guitar from a roof terrace high over Piazza Navona in central Rome, as crowds of ecstatic fans celebrated wildly in the square below. The guitarist was Jacopo Mastrangelo, the same musician who moved Romans to tears at the height of lockdown in spring 2020 when he performed a stirring rendition of Deborah’s Theme by Ennio Morricone over the same piazza, then completely empty and covered in grass. Olympics Italy was barely over the excitement of the Euros when the national Olympic team – kitted out in questionable tracksuits designed by Giorgio Armani – headed off to Tokyo. Public interest soon picked up as the medals started to roll in. The undisputed star of the Olympics was Marcell Jacobs who stunned Italy by becoming the fastest man in the world and the first Italian to win gold in the 100m sprint – the most watched race and most coveted medal in the entire Olympics. 6 | September 2021 • Wanted in Rome
There were also gold medals for the men and women’s 20 km race walking events, courtesy of Massimo Stano and Antonella Palmisano, both from the same southern Puglia region of Italy. Swimmer Gregorio Paltrinieri bounced back against the odds to win silver in the 800m freestyle and bronze in the 10km marathon, despite missing a month of training to recover from mononucleosis. The Olympics ended on a high note for the country too, with Jacobs returning as part of the Italian team to win the 4x100m relay final, setting a new national record time of 37.50, and beating Britain by one hundreth of a second. Record haul of medals All in all, Italy bagged 40 medals: 10 golds, 10 silvers and 20 bronzes. It was the biggest haul the country ever won, beating the previous record of 36 in Los Angeles 1932 and Rome 1960. President Mattarella will congratulate the Olympic athletes in person at a ceremony in the Quirinal Palace on 23 September, ending a summer that commentators have hailed as a “golden era” for Italian sport. President Mattarella celebrates Bonucci's goal in the Euro 2020 final.
Art
THE MUSES WHO INSPIRED THE GRAND TOUR ARTISTS HOW WOMEN FROM THE ROMAN COUNTRYSIDE WERE IMMORTALISED BY VISITING FOREIGN ARTISTS Margaret Stenhouse
A
ll through the 19th century and the first part of the 20th century, the artists of northern Europe and America saw Italy as a magical land, the cradle of classical art and culture and an essential part of their formation. They were drawn by Italy’s many art cities, its spectacular monuments and palaces and the museums crammed with infinite collections of paintings and sculptures. Italy was “the Garden of Europe”, a land of varied and stunning landscapes, aristocratic gardens, forgotten ruins, forests, lakes, mountains, remote little shrines and churches and charming villages. Another of the attractions which the artists were not slow to appreciate was the availability of willing models, especially in the small towns outside the capital, where the cost of living was within the budget of even the poorest artists, who were struggling to make a name for themselves. The village girls of the remote Lazio villages were renowned for their dark and sultry beauty, thanks to the genetic contribution of marauding Saracen pirates and invading armies of past centuries. The artists liked to portray the girls in their colourful native costumes, going about their daily tasks, like drawing water at the fountain, herding animals or standing in fields of corn. In the early 1800s they were often depicted as the wives and lovers of “briganti” – a theme that stirred the imagination in the Romantic period.
Vittoria Caldoni by Friedrich Overbeck.
8 | September 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Although many of these models remain nameless, like the lovely “Theodora la Frascatana” immortalised in a much copied 1839 oil paining by Luigi Rubio and reproduced on a postage stamp issued in Luxembourg in 2004, we know the story of some of the girls who, in one way or another, made their mark, such as Rosina Ferrara from Capri. She was the favourite muse of the 19th century American artists’ community. She posed for John Singer Sargent, Charles Sprague
Young girls at Civita d'Antino. School of Kristian Zahrtmann.
Pearce and George Randolph Barse. She married Barse in Rome in 1891 and moved with him to New York. Barse was so devoted to her that he committed suicide after her death in 1934. Most of the girls were naturally modest. The artists were not allowed to take liberties. Despite being simple country girls and usually illiterate, they were aware of the ways of the world. Most refused to pose in the nude and many were accompanied by their mothers during the sittings in the studios. A surprising number married the artists and accompanied their husbands abroad. A few of them became artists in their own right, like Pasquarosa Marcelli (1896-1973) from Anticoli Corrado, a small town in the region known as the Ciociaria, which became one of the most popular artists’ colonies in Lazio. Pasquarosa was introduced to the art world of Rome by her aunt Maria Lucantoni, a model who had married the Swiss sculptor Bertoldo Nebel and she soon became one of the most sought after models of the capital. She married Nino Bertoletti, one of the foremost artists of the time. The couple
had a wide circle of celebrated friends among the Rome intelligentsia, including Pirandello, de Chirico, Armando Spadini, Felice Carena, Guttuso, Morante and others. Between sessions posing in her husband’s studio, Pasquarosa began to paint herself. She became so successful that she was able to exhibit in several important Rome exhibitions in the 1930s, as well as a solo show in the Arlington Gallery, London in 1929. Margherita Toppi (1897-1971), also from Anticoli Corrado, became an artist too, surpassing in fame and reputation her husband, Swiss sculptor Paul Osswald. Margherita was the inspiration for the character of Ersilia, the sweet young girl with the green umbrella, in Herman Hesse’s Last Summer at Klingsor. Margherita was one of the six celebrated Toppi sisters – Natalina, Candida, Augusta, Alberta, Margherita and Angelina, who all married artists. Candida’s story had a tragic ending. She married the painter Pietro Gaudenzi, but died prematurely after only 10 years of marriage and Guadenzi married her sister Augusta who thus became his new muse. Guadenzi, however, could not forget Candida and Wanted in Rome • September 2021 | 9
in his later works he continued to idealise her, depicting her in the role of saint or Madonna. The Toppi clan extended beyond the six sisters, with another 16 girls who entered the modelling world and ended up as the wives of their artists. Not only the village girls lent themselves to posing for the artists. Male models included Bernardino and Francesco Toppi, allegedly the models for the frescoed figures in the Maccari Room of Palazzo Madama in Rome, seat of the senate house of the Italian Republic. It is thought to be Toppi who dominates the famous Fountain of the Naiads in Piazza della Repubblica in Rome. The Sicilian sculptor Mario Rutelli (whose great-grandson was mayor of Rome in the 1990s) chose a native of Anticoli Corrado as his model for his centrepiece featuring the muscular Glauco the Triton, grappling with a huge fish. The beautiful nymphs languishing around the fountain basin also came from the same village. The entire work caused a scandal as the girls were set in poses considered too lascivious for the morals of the time. The fountain was kept hidden from view behind hoardings until the Roman populace, overcome with curiosity to see the voluptuous bodies of the naiads, tore the barriers down and exposed Rutelli’s work. Toppi was used extensively by other Rome sculptors. In contrast to the offending representation of the pagan Triton, he stands demurely outside the Basilica of S. Giovanni in Rome in the role of St Francis of Assisi by sculptor Giuseppe Tonnini. In its heyday at the beginning of the 20th century there were over 50 artists’ studios in Anticoli Corrado. Naturally, this activity was a welcome source of income for the local people, who called all the foreigners “ngrisci” (local dialect for 'English'), irrespective of their nationality and provenance. The English artist Frank Hyde, who stayed in the town around 1912 left a captivating description in the Illustrated Studio Magazine of Fine and Applied Art: “I descended from my trap, and after mounting innumerable steps and stairways reached at last the old ruined castle, part of which is now used as a pension. Here I found fifteen or twenty artists of all nationalities already installed. It was the simple life here with a vengeance – no luxuries, in fact for the first few days breakfast consisted of brown bread and a bowl of hot goat’s milk.…..There were 10 | September 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Salome by Henri Regnault.
also writers, poets and sculptors, but no strangers whatsoever, no trippers – they never come here.” Frank goes on to describe a bucolic idyll: “After dinner other painters and their wives would drop in, which meant, of course, an impromptu dance to be held in the banqueting hall of the old castle...... A sight also worth seeing are the girls who come at this hour” (sunset) “to the fountain in the piazza, carrying their wonderful-shaped copper pitchers, each girl awaiting her turn, laughing and joking with the artists who assemble there to choose their models.” He says that most painters worked out of doors, painting the nude in the open air under the vines.... “it is very seldom that a studio is used, although they can be got at a reasonable price – say 20 francs a month.” The only negative note seemed to be the pigs “rushing about in hundreds...and they may knock you over, table and all!” Another well-known artists’ colony was situated in the village of Civita d’Antino, in the Abruzzo mountains, which became a favoured Scandinavian enclave and summer school headed by Danish artist Kristian Zahrtmann. The artists all lived together
Wanted in Rome • September 2021 | 11
where she posed for both of them. Both fell in love with her but her choice went to Lapcenko. The two men nonetheless remained friends and when, only three years later, Lapcenko developed an ailment that affected his sight, Ivanov accompanied him to Naples and Ischia in the hope of finding a cure. Unfortunately, this did not work. Despite his difficulties, Lapcenko carried on working as best he could. Vittoria stood by him and married him in 1839 and the couple moved to Russia. Vittoria remained in St Petersburg for the rest of her life.
Angelina Toppi by Oskar Brazda.
at the local inn called the Casa Cerroni where they amused themselves decorating the walls with invented heraldic coats-of-arms and had the sort of good time described by Frank Hyde in Anticoli Corrado. Their idyll came to an end with the 1915 Marsican earthquake which virtually destroyed the village. The drama of the earthquake and the subsequent suffering is graphically described in a book by local historian Antonio Bini: The Danish Dream of Kristian Zahrtmann. The school of Scandinavian painters at Civita d’Antino. The Castelli Romani also provided an inexhaustible stream of models. The most famous of these was Vittoria Caldoni from Albano Laziale, who became the favourite model for the artists of the Grand Tour. Born in 1805, the daughter of a vintner, she was considered the epitome of classic Roman beauty. Her career took off when she was 16 and she was painted in peasant dress, sitting in a cornfield, by the German artist Johann Friedrich Overbeck, commissioned by Ludwig, the hereditary prince of Bavaria. During the next few years, she posed for over 45 artists from all over Europe and North America. In 1830, when she was 25, she met Alexander Ivanov and Grigorij Lapcenko, two young aspiring Russian painters, fresh from St Petersburg, who took lodgings in her family home in Albano, 12 | September 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Other village girls from the Roman countryside went abroad and some made very successful careers for themselves. Agostina Segatori, who was Corot’s model, followed him to Paris, where she set up a cafe in Montmartre, frequented by all the artistic crowd of the Impressionist movement, including Van Gogh. Agostina always wore her native Ciociaria costume and her cafe was also used as an exhibition space to display the paintings of her artist friends. Corot’s portrait of her, entitled simply L’Agostina now hangs in the US Washington National Gallery. Rosalia Tobia from the Ciociaria village of Picinisco also ran her own bistro in the artists’ quarter in Montparnasse. She had first come to Paris as a lady’s maid to Princess Ruspoli and soon became a favourite model for artists such as WilliamAdolphe Bourguereau, Charles Emile August and James Whistler. The customers who frequented her bistro included Modigliani, Utrillo, Picasso and Matisse. Modigliani was too poor to pay for his meals in cash so he would give her a sketch instead. Unfortunately, Rosalia did not appreciate his work and used the sheets of paper as firelighters. Perhaps the most unusual story belongs to Maria Veronica Latini, who was the model for the celebrated Salome by young French artist Henri Regnault, winner of the Gran Prix de Rome in 1866. The painting was sold in 1912 for the record sum of more than $125,000 and donated to the Metropolitan Museum. Henri was killed in the Franco-Prussian war and Maria subsequently married his friend, the sculptor Jules Francois Gabriel Renaudot. Their daughter Gabrielle became a scientist. She worked closely with the French astronomer Camille Flammarion and has a crater on Mars named after her, as well as an asteroid, 355 Gabrielle – it seems a fitting legacy for the daughter of a mother who was also (in another way) a star!
A FOOTBALL GAME UNLIKE ANY OTHER GET YOUR
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Beaches TOP 10
BE ACHES N E A R RO M E For all you beach-lovers here is a selection of resorts within easy reach of Rome. Each one, ordered from north to south, offers either stabilimenti (private beaches with entrance fees and changing facilities and refreshments) or spiaggia libera (free beach with the option to rent a lounge chair and/or umbrella), and all have children’s facilities.
Sabaudia S. MARINELLA The northern-most beach on our list offers a small strip of white sandy beach with the choice of setting up camp at either the stabilimenti or spiaggia libera. There are two trains per hour leaving from Termini station for S. Marinella station and the journey takes about one hour. Popular with wind-surfers.
S. SEVERA Located about 50 km north of Rome and less than 10 km south of S. Marinella. Take one of the regular Civitavecchia trains from Rome and the beach is a ten-minute walk from the station. There are numerous stabilimenti, restaurants and spiaggia libera and it is also known for the Italia Surf Expo which takes place every July.
FREGENE A former chic hotspot of the 1960s and 1970s, Fregene boasts long stretches of sand with both stabilimenti and spiaggia libera. Along the coast there is also a wide selection of family-oriented restaurants and less expensive tavole calde. Rome’s club scene tends to flock to Fregene and nearby Ostia (see below) in the summer months. Although Fregene isn’t the easiest place to reach by public transport, Cotral buses depart from Rome’s Valle Aurelia metro stop (line A) and the journey takes about one hour.
OSTIA/CANCELLI Ostia and the Cancelli (gates) are along the coast nearest Rome. Ostia is loaded with often pricey and trendy stabilimenti, while the Cancelli offer free beaches equipped with restaurants and bathrooms. Public transport takes less than an hour and you can use the same metro/bus tickets for public transport in Rome. Take the 070 express bus from EUR, or the Roma-Lido train from Porta S. Paolo beside the Piramide metro station (line B). To reach the Cancelli get off at the last stop and take the 07 MARE bus until you reach the gates numbered 1, 2, 3 etc.
ANZIO/NETTUNO These beaches are only ten minutes apart and are easily reached from Rome. One train per hour leaves from Termini station, stopping first at Anzio and then at Nettuno. The journey takes 60-70 minutes and the beaches are about a 10-minute walk from the respective train stations.
S. Marinella Anzio has the Blue Flag status given to beaches that meet the international quality standards for cleanliness both on the beach and in the water.
SABAUDIA Famous for its beauty and spaciousness, this stretch of beach is another Blue Flag area. Although predominantly spiaggia libera, there are a few stabilimenti to choose from. Cotral buses run from Rome’s Laurentina metro stop (line B) to Piazza Oberdan in Sabaudia. From here take the shuttle bus which runs up and down the local coastline. Sabaudia is also known for its Mussolini-era architecture.
S. FELICE CIRCEO Nearly 100 km south of Rome are the Blue Flag beaches and crystal clear waters of Circeo. Stabilimenti abound but look for the spiaggia libera nearest the port: it definitely merits the mini-trek. Cotral buses leave for Circeo from the Laurentina metro station in Rome. Get off at the last stop and walk for ten minutes until you reach the beach.
TERRACINA Located just 10 km south of Circeo. From Termini station take the hourly regional train for Naples and get off at Monte S. Biagio. From there, take the bus for about 20 minutes until you reach the beach. Terracina has as many spiagge libere as stabilimenti and both are well-kept and clean, making it a popular destination for families.
SPERLONGA The stabilimenti dominate this gorgeous getaway with picturesque views and Blue Flag status, leaving only narrow strips for the spiaggia libera. Take the regional train headed to Naples from Termini station and get off at Fondi-Sperlonga. Once there, take the Piazzoli bus for 20 minutes to Sperlonga, alternatively take a private taxi but be warned they are far more expensive than the €1.50 bus ticket.
GAETA This Blue Flag area has a quaint mediaeval town to explore and clean beaches. From Termini station take one of the frequent trains headed towards Naples, get off at Formia and take the bus for another 25 minutes until you reach Gaeta. For more information about transportation consult the Cotral and Trenitalia websites www.cotralspa.it, www.trenitalia.it.
Pools TOP 10
OU T DO O R P O O LS I N RO M E Come mid-summer in Rome, most of us are in need of the cool of an outdoor pool to relax by. But Rome isn’t awash with them and most are part of privately- owned swimming and sports clubs or upmarket hotels. Expect to pay upwards of €40 a day per person for entry to exquisitely chic surroundings at the top end of the spectrum, and at least €10 for perfectly adequate but som times crowded and scruffy cheaper pools. We’ve picked ten of Rome’s best, from New York-style rooftop pools with to-die-for views over the city and a nice line in cocktails to family-friendly cheap and cheerful clubs. The € symbols represent ranking by price.
Piscina delle rose
Radisson SAS Hotel
1. ALDROVANDI PALACE
7. HYDROMANIA
Small and very select city-centre oasis, La Ranocchia (meaning “little frog”) is shaded by overhanging palms and huge cream parasols. Arrive early as space is limited around this pool. Mon-Sun 10.00-19.30. Mon-Sat €55, Sun €60, weekly pass €350. Via Ulisse Aldrovandi 15 (Parioli), tel. 063223993, www.aldrovandi.com. €€€€
Think miles of water slides, wave machines, pools, South-Pacific-style thatched bars, shops and a mini-club. Weekdays 09.30-18.30, weekends 09.30-19.30. Daily adult rate €24, kids €19. Half day rates €19/17. Casal Lumbroso 33 (Aurelio), tel. 0666183183, www.hydromania.it. €€
2. BELLE ARTI
8. PISCINA DELLE ROSE
Free at weekends and well worth a mention for its fantastic central location tucked behind a church on Via Flaminia. A quiet atmosphere makes it good for those with very young children. Mon-Fri 07.00-21.00. €15. Sat 07.00-20.00, Sun 08.00-20.00. €25. Children aged 7-13 accompanied by adult pay €10 week day / €15 weekend. Via Flaminia 158 (Flaminio), tel. 063226529, www.circolotennisbellearti.it. €€
Large pool perfect for families, swimming and canoeing lessons. Mon-Fri 09.00-21.00, weekends 09.00-19.00 (€16 per day, €14 half-day). Viale America 20 (EUR), tel. 065926717, www.piscinadellerose.it. €€
3. CAVALIERI HILTON This Olympic-sized outdoor pool-witha-view is the crème de la crème of Rome’s pools if you like serious swimming. It’s large, luxurious and well worth the trip to Monte Mario. With a separate children’s pool. 08.00-19.00 daily (weekdays €40, weekends €80, sun lounger and towel included). Via Alberto Cadlolo 101 (Monte Mario), tel. 0635091, www.cavalieri-hilton.it. €€€€€
4. CIRCOLO VALENTINI Slightly shabby but friendly, family-run pool, used by locals. The adjoining restaurant will make up a lunchtime salad for around €4. 09.00-19.00 (weekdays €10, half-day €7, weekends €14/€10). Via della Marcigliana 597, corner Via Bufalotta (Talenti/Prati Fiscali), tel. 0687120207, www.circolovalentini.it. €
9. RADISSON SAS HOTEL Seriously smart and stunning heated rooftop swimming pool with sections for children and adults and poolside fine dining. 09.00-19.00 (adults €65 Mon-Fri, €90 Sat-Sun, children 50 per cent off ). Via Filippo Turati 171 (Esquilino), tel. 06444841, www.radissonblu.com/eshotel-rome. €€€€
10. S.S.D. VITA Professional, outdoor swimming pool arranges lessons for children and adults and has tennis courts and a gym. Mon-Fri 07.00-21.30. €12 daily. Sat 07.00-20.00. Sun 08.00-20.00. €15 daily rate weekend. Children aged 10 upwards pay adult rate. Kids aged 5-10 €8, kids under 5 free. Via del Fontanile Arenato 66 (Aurelio), tel. 066634202, www.vitaclub.it. €
5. CLUB LANCIANI A large tennis club with an outdoor pool offering lessons, free swimming and a children’s summer school. Weekdays 09.30-18.30, weekends 09.30-19.30. Adults €10.50/15, kids €7.50/11. Via di Pietralata 135 (Tiburtino), tel. 064181401, www.clublanciani.eu. €€
6. GRAND HOTEL GIANICOLO Part of a luxury hotel, this pool is located in elegant surroundings with palm trees and views of Trastevere from the Gianicolo hill. Lunch and dinner served at pool-side restaurant. 09.00-19.00, weekdays €25, weekend rate €35. Via delle Mura Gianicolensi 107 (Gianicolo), tel. 0658333405, www.grandhotelgianicolo.it. €€
Hydromania
LAGO DI ALBANO This volcanic crater lake presents visitors with beautiful views of its clear water and surrounding forests. The picturesque towns along the shores serve as popular summer resort areas for Romans, including Castel Gandolfo, home to the summer papal palace whose gardens were recently opened to the public. On the other side of the lake is Palazzolo, a villa bought by Rome’s Venerable English College in 1920 and now open to guests. The towns surrounding the lake are known for their restaurants, shops and fruit farms. Swimming, fishing and boating are among the favourite activities for visitors, and the lake’s beach is located on the western shore. A simple 45-minute train ride from Termini, visitors can reach Lago Albano by taking the FL4 train towards Albano Laziale and getting off at the Castel Gandolfo stop.
around rome LAGO DI NEMI Lago di Nemi is a small and unique volcanic lake where divers in the 19th century discovered two large ships built for the notorious Roman emperor Caligula at the bottom of the lake, filled withbottom of the lake, filled with artworks and treasures. Replicas of the ships along with other artefacts are on display at the nearby Museum of Roman Ships. Travellers can also visit the natural caves around the lake, which were a favourite haunt of 19th-century foreign artists such as Turner. Nemi is associated with the cult of the Roman goddess Diana, and, for the last 80 years, an annual strawberry festival. Visitors can reach the lake by taking the SS7 Appia southbound as far as Genzano, and then following signs for Nemi. LAGO DI VICO Formed by the volcanic activity of Mount Venus, Lago di Vico offers a unique geological backdrop set amid lush woodland and hills. The surrounding nature reserve is a haven for wildlife, but what is most characteristic of the area are the hazel and chestnut plantations. Lakeside campsites and hotels offer swimming, sailing and horse riding. The two towns worth a visit are Ronciglione and Caprarola with its magnificent and recently restored Villa Farnese. Lago di Vico is a 90-minute drive from Rome taking the SS2 Cassia, and turning north at Sutri.
16 | September 2021 • Wanted in Rome
LAGO DI BOLSENA Located on the site of the Vulsini volcano, dormant since about 100 BC, this crater lake has two islands and is surrounded by rolling hills and vegetation. The area around Montefisascone on the southeast shore of the lake is famous for its Est! Est!! Est!!! wine. The town of Bolsena in the northeast is a popular tourist resort in summer and it is here that the famous so-called Eucharistic Miracle took place in 1263 when a Bohemian priest is said to have seen blood coming from the host that he had just consecrated at Mass. Capodimonte on the southwest of the lake is also worth a visit. The lakeside area provides activities for sports and nature enthusiasts all year round. The best way to reach Lago di Bolsena from Rome is by car, as buses to Bolsena from Termini Station are infrequent. LAGO DI BRACCIANO Just north-west of Rome along the Via Cassia, Lake Bracciano is one of the most easily accessible lakes for Romans. The ban on motor boats (except for a little ferry) means it remains an ideal spot for swimming, sailing and canoeing. The Lega Navale operates a dinghy sailing school in Anguillara. Churches and historic sites are located in the three small towns around the lake: Bracciano, Trevignano and Anguillara. There are also places for camping and horse riding tours by the lake, which is just an hour on the Viterbo train line from Rome’s Ostiense station. The lake is overlooked by the 15th-century Orsini-Odescalchi castle in Bracciano, often chosen as the venue for jet-set weddings, and there is also an air force museum at nearby Vigna di Valle. LAGO DI MARTIGNANO This tiny volcanic lake just to the east of Lake Bracciano offers clean water and beaches with scenic views of the surrounding meadows and wildlife. Lago di Martignano is known for its outdoor activities such as horse riding, hiking, mountain biking and swimming. Umbrellas, loungers and luggage storage are available to rent along with canoes, sailboats and windsurfing equipment. It is also known for the hot sulphurous springs surrounding the lake. Arriving at Lago di Martignano by car is the easiest option. Reaching the lake by public transport involves taking the FM3 train to Cesano and opting for either a local bus or taxi.
IB WORLD SCHOOL
A rewarding international education. Ages 2 to 18. Request information! +39 06 84482 651 romeinternationalschool.it
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ARTandSEEK Please note that not all of these activites English-language culturaldue workshops visits to are currently open, to theand covid-19 museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For crisis. It is advisable to check websites event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforfor visiting details and make reservation kids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandsebefore going. ekforkids.com. Bioparco Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and offers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it. Bowling Silvestri This sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.
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There are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com. Casa del Parco Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com. Casina di Raffaello Play centre in Villa Borghese offering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Raffaello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadiraffaello.it.
Cinecittà World This 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special effects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it. Climbing Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, Thurs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473. Explora The 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it. Go-karting Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it. Gymboree This children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, offering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it. Hortis Urbis Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it. Il Nido Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.
Luneur Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it. Rainbow Magicland The 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it. Time Elevator A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. The time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it. Zoomarine This amusement and aquatic park outside Rome offers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.
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Rome’s artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant importantstreet street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre. Here is where to is find Rome’s mainthe street artstreet projects murals. from the centre. Here where to find main artand projects and murals around Rome. Esquilino Esquilino Murals Murals byby Alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Pistone, Nicola Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, Diamond. PiazzaMafredo Manfredo Fanti 47. Piazza Fanti 47.
Marconi Marconi The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artistSeth Seth is located in a street artist is located in a former former soap factory Via Antonio soap factory on Viaon Antonio AvogaAvogadro, opposite dro, opposite Ostiense'sOstiense’s landmark Gasometro. For For details see landmark Gasometro. details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com.
Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz Metropoliz This This former former meat meat factory factory inin the the outskirts of Rome is nowa astreet street outskirts of Rome is now art art museumasaswell well as as being museum being home hometoto some200 200squatting squatters,migrants. many of The them some migrants. The Museo dell’Altrodi e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altroveor diMAAM, Metropoliz, or MAAM, Metropoliz, is only open is only open on Saturdays, and on Saturdays, and features the work features the work of more than 300 of more than 300 artists including artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Edoardo Kobra, and GioDiamond. Pistone, Pistone, Sten&Lex See Sten&Lex, Pablo Echaurren and MAAM Facebook page for details. Borondo. See MAAM Via Prenestina 913. Facebook page for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense Ostiense Fronte Del by by Blu.Blu. Via Via del Porto Fronte Del Porto Porto del Fluviale. Porto Fluviale. Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Fluviale. Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Magazzini Shelley by Generali. Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense. Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Pigneto Ostiense. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Pigneto Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.
Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi. Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Fortebraccio. 2501 mural on Via Blu Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Francesco Baracca. Francesco Baracca. Prati Prati Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo Nuovo Mercato Trionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria. Andrea Doria. theSabotino. bear by Daniza the bear byDaniza ROA. Via ROA. Via Sabotino. Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Magee. Via Via The by Fintan Cristoforo Numai. Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals andand Gio Tunnel muralsby byMr MrTHOMS THOMS Pistone. Via Decio Mure.Mure. Gio Pistone. Via Decio Nido di di Vespe ViaVia del Nido VespebybyLucamaleonte. Lucamaleonte. Monte del Grano. del Monte del Grano. Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89. Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by byBlu. Blu.Via ViaCiciliano Ciciliano and and Via Via Murals Palombini (Casal Palombini (Casaldè dèPazzi). Pazzi). Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station. Metro B station. S.S. Basilio Basilio SanBa SanBa features features large-scale large-scale works on on the façades façades of in the of social-housing social-housingblocks blocks the disadvantaged north-east suburb of in the disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerasuburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. tion project includes works by Italian The project artistsregeneration Agostino Iacurci, Hitnesincludes and Blu works by Italian artists alongside Spain's Liqen. ViaAgostino Maiolati, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Spain’s Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, S. Giovanni Via Treia. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S. Giovanni Apulia corner of Via Farsalo. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.
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It’s aa New NewDay Daybyby Alice Pasquini. It’s Alice Pasquini. Via Via Anton Ludovico. Anton Ludovico. S. Lorenzo S. Lorenzo Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Feminicide mural by Elisa Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo. Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi. Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Mural by by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Via Aquilonia. Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia. S. Pietro S. Pietro Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S. di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo. Gallo. Testaccio Testaccio Hunted byby ROA. ViaVia Galvani. HuntedWolf Wolf ROA. Galvani. #KindComments by by Alice Pasquini, Via #KindComments Alice Pasquini, Volta, Testaccio market. Via Volta, Testaccio market. Tor Pignattara Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via ViaAntonio AntonioTempesta. Tempesta. Dulk. Etnik.Via ViaBartolomeo Bartolomeo Perestrello Etnik. Perestrello 51. 51. Coffee Break Etam Cru. Via Coffee Break by Etamby Cru. Via Ludovico Pavoni. Ludovico Pavoni. Tom by Jef Via Gabrio TomSawyer Sawyer by Aerosol. Jef Aerosol. Via Serbelloni. Gabrio Serbelloni. Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema PasoliniVia by Acqua Diavù.Bullicante. Former Cinema Impero, Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Alessi. Herakut. Capua 14. GaleazzoVia Alessi. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Herakut. Via Capua 14. Oddi 6. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia Tor Big Marancia The City Life scheme features 14-m The Big City Life scheme tall murals by 22 Italian and features interna14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and tional street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia andartists Jerico.including The idea international street was to transform area's of Mr Klevra, Seth,the Gaia andblocks Jerico. flats into an open-air art museum. Via The idea was to transform the area’s Tor Marancia. www.bigcity.life.it. blocks of flats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.
Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth. Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.
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ROME'S MAJOR
MUSEUMS PLEASE NOTE THAT NOT ALL OF THESE MUSEUMS ARE CURRENTLY OPEN, DUE TO THE COVID-19 CRISIS. IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS AND MAKE RESERVATION BEFORE GOING.
VATICAN MUSEUMS
Crypta Balbi
Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.
Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia
Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums
Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.
STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian
Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.
Borghese Museum
Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.
Castel S. Angelo Museum
Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine
Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.
22 | September 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian. Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.
MAXXI
Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.
Palazzo Corsini
Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.
Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale
Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.
Palazzo Altemps
Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.
Palazzo Barberini
Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme
Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.
Villa Farnesina
Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.
PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe
CITY MUSEUMS
Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.
Centrale Montemartini
Chiostro Del Bramante
Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.
Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.
Capitoline Museums
Doria Pamphilj Gallery
Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna
Galleria Colonna
Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.
MACRO Asilo
Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space until the end of 2019. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.
Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.
MATTATOIO
Giorgio de Chirico House Museum
Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.
Museo Barracco
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.
Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi
Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.
Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.
Keats-Shelley House
Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.
Museo storico della Liberazione
Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets
Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.
Museo Canonica
Palazzo Merulana
Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).
Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.
Museo Napoleonico
Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.
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PLEASE NOTE THAT NOT ALL OF THESE GALLERIES ARE CURRENTLY OPEN, DUE TO THE COVID-19 CRISIS. IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS AND TO MAKE RESERVATION BEFORE GOING.
ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY
ART GALLERIES
1/9 Unosunove
1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.
A.A.M. Architettura
Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ff-maam.it.
Contemporary Cluster
Visual art, design, architecture, fashion design and beauty apothecary in a 17th-century palace. Via dei Barbieri 7, tel. 0668805928, www.contemporarycluster.com.
C.R.E.T.A.
Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Delfini, Via dei Delfini 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.
Dorothy Circus Gallery
Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.
Ex Elettrofonica
This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.
Fondazione Memmo
Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.
Fondazione Pastificio Cerere
This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.
Fondazione Volume!
The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.
24 | September 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Franz Paludetto
Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.
Frutta
This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.
Gagosian Gallery
The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.
GALLA
Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at affordable prices by artists working in various fields. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.
Galleria Alessandro Bonomo
Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.
Galleria Valentina Bonomo
Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.
Galleria Frammenti D’Arte
Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.
Galleria Lorcan O’Neill
High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.
Galleria della Tartaruga
Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.
Galleria Il Segno
Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.
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MAXXI amazes you, always art
architecture design photography cinema
26 | September 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Galleria Mucciaccia
Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.
Galleria Russo
Operativa Arte Contemporanea
A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.
Pian de Giullari
This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.
Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.
Galleria Varsi
Plus Arte Puls
A dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di Grotta Pinta 38, tel. 066865415, www.galleriavarsi.it.
Gavin Brown's Enterprise
New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.
Il Ponte Contemporanea
Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.
RvB ARTS
Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.
Sala 1
Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.
This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.
La Nuova Pesa
S.T. Foto libreria galleria
Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.
MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea
Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.
Magazzino d’Arte Moderna
Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.
Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.
Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri
The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.
T293
Monitor
The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.
Nero Gallery
The Gallery Apart
Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.
This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.
Nomas Foundation
TraleVolte
This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.
Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.
Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.
White Noise Gallery
Based in the S. Lorenzo district, this gallery exhibits unconventional work by young Italian and international artists. Via della Seggiola 9, tel. 066832833, www.whitenoisegallery.it.
Wunderkammern
This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.
Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin
Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it. Wanted in Rome • September 2021 | 27
where to go in Rome
WHAT’S ON Piazza del Campidoglio. See Art News page 34.
Wanted in Rome • September 2021 | 29
EXHIBITIONS Museums and archaeological sites in Rome, including the Vatican Museums, are open only to visitors with the covid ‘Green Pass’ or its equivalent. Most venues require advance booking and the wearing of masks is obligatory. Weekend visits to the more popular sites such as the Colosseum and the Pantheon must be booked at least one day ahead. For visiting details check websites in advance.
INFERNO
15 OCT-9 JAN
Following the success of the Raphael 500 exhibition, the Scuderie del Quirinale returns with a new show marking another important milestone: the 700th anniversary of the death of Dante Alighieri. The exhibition based on the first book of The Divine Comedy will comprise more than 200 artworks on loan from 80 museums, public collections and private collections from Italy, the Vatican and across Europe. Inferno will document hell-related iconography from the Middle Ages to the present day, in what is hailed as the first major art exhibition dedicated to this theme. Curated by Jean Clair, the show will take visitors on a terrifying visual journey into the depths of hell, as imagined by artists through the centuries, accompanied by the words of Dante. These visions range from the tormented and nightmarish to the romanticised, from Mediaeval to Baroque, up to psychoanalytic interpretations from the 20th century. The exhibition also presents scenes of “hell on earth” and delves into the concept of salvation, as offered by Dante in the last canto of the Inferno Canticle: “…And so we went out to see the stars again.” During the show’s first weeks, visitors will be able to gaze into the Abyss of Hell by Botticelli, on loan from the Vatican, together with a scale paster cast model of Rodin’s Gates of Hell
Inferno at Scuderie del Quirinale. Hell, anonymous, c.1510-1520, Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga, Lisbon © Bridgeman Images.
from the Musée Rodin in Paris. There will be other masterpieces too, by artists including Beato Angelico, Botticelli, Bosch, Bruegel, Cézanne, Delacroix, Goya, Kiefer, Manet, Richter and Rodin. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 16, www.scuderiequirinale.it.
PIETRO PASOLINI: WE ARE THE LAND 23 JUNE-30 SEPT
Galleria Valentina Bonomo presents a new cycle of works by the RomanBrazilian born artist Pietro Pasolini, created in direct response to the dramatically accelerating destruction of the world’s forests. Pasolini’s latest exhibition asks us to think about trees, forests and the natural world whose biodiversity is being lost at a colossal rate due to reckless human intervention. The show opens with a large-scale aerial photograph of the Ecuadorian rainforest taken
30 | September 2021 • Wanted in Rome
using a drone during the artist’s trip to the Amazon. The gallery’s second room acts as the heart of the forest, with large copper panels containing depictions and imprints of leaves and foliage. The gallery describes the atmosphere created by the photograms as an “almost fairytale-like realm,” bridging the gap between photography, sculpture and painting. Galleria Valentina Bonomo, Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, www.galleriabonomo.com.
DAMIEN HIRST AT GALLERIA BORGHESE 8 JUNE-7 NOV
Galleria Borghese – home to masterpieces by Bernini, Canova and Caravaggio – presents the works of contemporary British artist Damien Hirst in a new exhibition titled Archaeology Now. The show includes more than 80 works from Hirst’s Treasures from the Wreck of
Pietro Pasolini at Galleria Valentina Bonomo.
the Unbelievable series, featuring monumental and small-scale sculptures made from bronze, rock crystal, coral and Carrara marble. Also on display in the Rome exhibition, curated by Anna Coliva and Mario Codognato, are Hirst’s Colour Space paintings, exhibited in Italy for the first time. Held with the support of luxury fashion house Prada, the exhibition will see Hirst’s colossal sculpture, Hydra and Kali, displayed outdoors in the Secret Garden of the Uccelliera. Galleria Borghese says the installation stems from Hirst’s Treasures from the Wreck of the Unbelievable, exhibited for the first time in 2017 in Venice at Palazzo Grassi and Punta della Dogana. Critics were divided when the works were displayed, with a review in The Art Newspaper stating: “This is what art looks like when unbridled ambition meets apparently limitless financial resources.” The Daily Telegraph dismissed the shipwreck treasure show as “a spectacular, bloated folly” however the Guardian described it as “a titanic return to form” for Hirst. Retracing his colourful career, the Rome retrospective highlights the multimedia approach of the British artist who is known for his provocative art charged with social commentary. Hirst shot to international fame in 1991 with The Physical Impossibility of Death in the Mind of Someone Living, featuring a shark in formaldehyde, and gained new audiences in 2007 with For the Love of God, a diamond-encrusted platinum cast of a skull. Reservations obligatory, via Galleria Borghese website. TuesSun 09.00-17.00. Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5, tel. 068413979, www. galleriaborghese.beniculturali.it.
ROMA: NASCITA DI UNA CAPITALE 16 MAY-26 SEPT
Palazzo Braschi hosts an exhibition that explores the first decades after the city became the capital of the united Italy in 1870. Titled Rome: Birth of a capital 1870-1915, the show comprises more than 600 works and documents, taking the visitor on an historic, urban-
Damien Hirst at Galleria Borghese.
architectural, political and social itinerary through the modern capital and its early protagonists. Starting from the Capture of Rome at Porta Pia in 1870, the exhibition delves into the archaeological excavations, demolitions and reconstructions that shaped the capital of the newly-formed Kingdom of Italy. The exhibition also illustrates sociocultural changes, from politics and art to trade, tourism and sport, leading up to the outbreak of world war one. Palazzo Braschi. Piazza Navona 2, tel. 060608, www. museodiroma.it.
ALL ABOUT BANKSY: EXHIBITION 2 5 MAY-9 JAN
Chiostro del Bramante presents ALL about BANKSY, a new exhibition dedicated to the anonymous British street artist whose powerful, satirical and thought-provoking murals are celebrated around the world. The show, which follows an earlier Banksy exhibition, features about 250 artworks from private collections. Chiostro del Bramante, Via Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www. chiostrodelbramante.it.
CHIAMALA ROMA 27 APRIL-5 SEPT
The Museum di Roma in Trastevere stages an exhibition
of photographs taken by Roman photographer Sandro Becchetti between 1968 and 2013, the year of his death. Organisers describe the show as a personal and poetic reinterpretation of Rome, highlighting the “uniqueness of a contradictory and complex city.” In addition to photographing the capital’s buildings and inhabitants, Becchetti immortalised leading cultural figures of the day such as de Chirico and Pasolini whose portraits are on display. Museo di Roma in Trastevere, Piazza S. Egidio 1/b, tel. 060608, www. museodiromaintrastevere.it.
COLORI DEI ROMANI 27 APRIL-15 SEPT
One of Rome’s quirkiest but least-visited museums, Centrale Montemartini is a former industrial power plant housing over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the collection of the Capitoline Museums. It also hosts temporary exhibitions, with its latest display dedicated to a wide selection of precious mosaics from the Capitoline collections. Accompanied by a series of fresco fragments, sculptures, historical photographs, watercolours and drawings, the mosaics offer insights into Roman society between the first century BC and the fourth century AD. Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Wanted in Rome • September 2021 | 31
ART NEWS Rome mayoral candidate Carlo Calenda proposes mega Ancient Rome Museum
Carlo Calenda, one of the main candidates in the race to become Rome’s next mayor, has launched a radical idea to create a single, giant museum dedicated to ancient Rome. Under Calenda’s plan, the city hall offices would be moved from the Campidoglio, with the vacated Palazzo Senatorio becoming part of the adjoining Capitoline Museums complex to form the ‘Museo Unico per la Roma Antica.’ The new space would be used to merge treasures from several museums in Rome whose collections are in the hands of both the city and the state, including Palazzo Altemps and Palazzo Massimo (state-run) and the Museum of Roman Civilisation (city-run, located in the EUR suburb and long closed for renovation). The Capitoline Museums, in addition to being the oldest public museums in the world – first started by Pope Sixtus IV in 1471 – represent the jewel in the crown of Rome’s municipal-run museums. However Calenda for the lilberal Azione party, claims that it is “not a museum, in the modern sense of the term, but a collection of collections exhibited in a confused and unintelligible way.” The mayoral candidate says his plan would create
Piazza del Campidoglio, flanked by the Capitoline Museums.
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a “complete, modern and usable museum itinerary that becomes the natural destination for those who want to learn about Roman history.” Calenda argues that, as it stands, tourists keen to understand the history of Rome must “visit seven different museums, located kilometres from each other” under a system that is both “unattractive” and “difficult” for visitors. “It takes 20 minutes to go from the Capitoline Museums to the National Roman Museum in Palazzo Massimo” – he says – “It would take 47 minutes to go from the Capitoline Museums to the Museum of Roman Civilisation, the only one with educational content, which has been closed for years.” Calenda also says that “unlike all the other European capitals, Rome does not have a large public museum representative of the city.” He asserts that the new complex could become “the largest museum in Rome, surpassing the Vatican Museums and considerably approaching the size of other large international museums such as the Louvre.” As part of the shake-up, he proposes to merge the Capitoline Museums’ collection of paintings (including works by Caravaggio and Guercino) with that of Palazzo Barberini (the national collection of ancient art) “in order to concentrate the pictorial works of international importance in a single site.” Furthermore Calenda proposes to “entrust the entire archaeological area of the Forums and the Palatine
to the national superintendence”, in addition to preparing “an ambitious excavation plan.” Calenda’s plan has aroused interest among the general public but has been roundly slammed by experts from the world of culture who accuse him, among other things, of wanting to “cherry pick” or “loot” treasures from other museums. Art historian Tomaso Montanari, wrote on Twitter: “He wants to merge museums, erasing history and the first public museum in the world. Like installing glass and a roof on the Colosseum, because it is so old, broken and uncomfortable.” Flaminia Gennari Santori, director of Palazzo Barberini, described the proposal as “senseless, so absurd that it’s laughable.” Art historian Rita Borioni said: “The reason why the Capitoline Museums cannot have the same appeal as the Vatican Museums is not due to its size but rather the fact that it doesn’t have Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel, Raphael’s Rooms, the Lacoonte.” Not everyone is against the idea, however, with Calenda’s plan described as “excellent” by the prominent art critic Vittorio Sgarbi. For his part Calenda says he “was expecting the controversy”, adding that it is “interesting to hear other points of view”, while inviting experts to engage with him on the matter in an open debate. Municipal elections will be held in Rome on 3-4 October.
ITsART will screen an Ennio Morricone tribute concert at Pompeii.
Italy to launch ‘Netflix of Italian Culture’ in Europe and US
Italy’s streaming platform ITsART – known as the ‘Netflix of Italian Culture’ – is set to roll out across Europe in October before becoming available to viewers in the US next year. ITsART gives online access to Italian culture – both free and paid – ranging from art and music to dance and theatre, and is commissioned by Italy’s culture ministry. “The idea is to provide a common platform that can reach a growing audience of consumers of Italian art and culture around the world,” ITsART head Giano Biagini told Variety magazine. The project, conceived during Italy’s covid-19 lockdown, acts as a “virtual stage offering Italian entertainment and culture”, said culture minister Dario Franceschini when the project was launched in May. With live and on-demand content, in Italy and abroad, the streaming platform features content produced by top Italian cultural institutions - from the Uffizi to La Scala - alongside films and documentaries. ITsART is divided into three sections - stage, places and story within which cultural venues present their projects and productions. The platform now offers more than 1,000 events and shows – reports Variety – from the upcoming Ennio Morricone tribute at Pompeii to performances with tenor Andrea Bocelli and conductor Riccardo Muti. For details see website, www.itsart.tv. Andy Devane
OPERA MILAN L’ITALIANA IN ALGERI BY ROSSINI 10-18 SEPT
Conducted by Ottavio Dantone, with staging revived by Grischa Asagaroff, the artistic director of the Zurich Opera House. Asagaroff is also well known for his work at the Metropolitan Opera. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.
IL BARBIERE DI SIVIGLIA BY GIOACHINO ROSSINI 30 SEPT-15 OCT
This new production is conducted by Riccardo Chailly and directed by Leo Muscato. Muscato has recently directed Agrippina by Handel for the Bonn Theatre Opera. This is Muscato’s first opera at La Scala. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.
IL TURCO IN ITALIA BY GIOACHINO ROSSINI 13-25 OCT
Conducted by Diego Fasolis, directed by Roberto Andò. Erwin Schrott sings the part of Selim, Rosa Feola of Donna Fiorilla, Giulio Mastrototaro of Don Geronio. Rossini’s opera buffa was influenced by Mozart’s Cosi fan tutte, which was performed at Teatro alla Scala in 1814, just before Rossini’s work. In 1955 Maria Callas sang Fiorilla in a production by Franco Zeffirelli. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.
VII, Roberto Frontali of Giacomo and Dmitry Beloselskiy of Talbot.
JULIUS CAESAR BY GIORGIO BATTISTELLI 20-28 NOV
The opera has been commissioned by the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma. It will be conducted by Daniele Gatti and directed by Robert Carsen. Battistelli is an Italian composer of contemporary classical music and has composed 20 operas, including one based on Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein and CO2 based on Al Gore’s Inconvenient Truth. Battistelli’s Julius Caesar, based on Shakespeare’s play, is a world premiere.
ROME GIOVANNA D’ARCO BY GIUSEPPE VERDI 19-26 Oct
Conducted by Daniele Gatti, music director of the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, this is a new production by director Davide Livermore. Nino Machaidze sings the part of Giovanna, Francesco Meli of Carlo
VERONA The beginning of Sept sees the last of the opera performances at the Arena in Verona. 2 Sept. La Traviata by Giuseppe Verdi. 3 Sept. Turnadot by Giacomo Puccini. 4 Sept. Aida by Giuseppe Verdi.
Teatro dell'Opera di Roma stages a new opera, Julius Caesar by Giorgio Battistelli, composer of contemporary classical music.
34 | September 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Classical MILAN AND TURIN SETTEMBRE MUSICA 8-26 SEPT
This year Mito Settembre Musica is back with 126 concerts between Milan and Turin. The title is Futuri, with an emphasis on the young both as musicians and as spectators. 8 Sept. The RAI symphony orchestra conducted by Fabio Luisi opens the programme in Milan, with Francesco Piemontesi pianist. The programme includes the Italian premiere of Subito con forza by the South Korean composer Unsuk Chin, as well as Mozart’s piano concerto 25 and Beethoven’s symphony no 8. 26 Sept. The festival closes in Turin with La Scala’s Filarmonica conducted by Riccardo Chailly performing Mendelssohn’s Italian symphony and Schumann’s symphony no 4 in D minor. The British tenor Ian Bostridge and the jazz pianist Brad Mehldau perform a series of Lieder on the theme of love and passion. In Milan on 9 Sept and in Turin on 10 Sept. Pianist Ivo Pogorelich performs music by Schubert and Chopin in Milan on 14 Sept and in Turin on 15 Sept. For details of all other concerts, which alternate between Milan and Turin, see http://www.mitosettembremusica. it. It is the festival’s policy to make prices accessible for all. Tickets range from €3-€10.
9, 11 Sept. Simon Ivaldi piano, performs music by Grieg, Grandos, Schumann. 10, 12 Sept. Lavinia Bertulli piano, performs music by Mozart, Schubert and Liszt. 16, 18 Sept. Trio Eidos. Ivos Margoni violin, Stefano Bruno cello, Giulia Loperfido piano, perform music by Beethoven and Mendelssohn. 17, 19 Sept. Duo Margoni-Loperfido. Ivos Margoni violin, Giulia Loperfido piano, perform music by Pilati, Schumann and Grieg. 23, 25 Sept. Gabriele Strata piano, performs music by Schumann and Scriabin. 24, 26 Sept. Duo de Feo. Alessandro De Feo violin, Gabriele De Feo piano, perform music by Prokofiev, Cassado, Brahms and Martinu. 30 Sept, 2 Oct. Alessandro Simoni piano, performs music by Rachmaninov and Liszt. 1, 3 Oct. Duo Gibboni. Annastella Gibboni and Donatella Gibboni violins, play music by Boccherini, Viotti, Prokofiev and others. Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118, www.filarmonicaromana.org.
ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA The new S. Cecilia season starts at the end of Sept with a concert on 29 Sept to mark the 100th anniversary of the birth of Piazzolla called Carte blanche a Richard Galliano. Galliano plays the accordion, with Tommaso Ragno voice and Piero Monti conducting Les Chemins Noirs composed by Galliano, an oratorio inspired by the literary work of René Frégni. 7-9 Oct. The inaugural concert by S. Cecilia’s new principal guest conductor Jakub Hruša. He is conducting Mahler’s Resurrection symphony. The Czech conductor has been appointed for a three-year term and will conduct at least three productions each season. Hruša, who has often conducted in Rome, is the chief conductor of the Bamberger Symphoniker and the guest conductor of the Weiner and Berliner Philharmoniker and the Chicago symphony orchestra. 13-16 Oct. Kirill Petrenko conducts the S. Cecilia Orchestra playing Mendelssohn’s Calm Sea and and Prosperous Voyage, Brahms piano
ROME ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA ROMANA There will be a series of concerts on Fridays in Rome at Sala Casella and Sundays in Ischia at the Giardini Mortella throughout Sept to support young Italian musicians. Enrico Dindo has been appointed the new artistic director of the Filarmonica Romana from Jan 2022.
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Ivo Pogorelich performs in Milan on 14 Sept and in Turin on 15 Sept.
concerto 2 and Debussy La mer with Boris Giltburg as the piano soloist. 18 Oct. Ivo Pogorelich in recital playing music by Chopin and Schubert. 23 Oct. Maxim Emelyanychev conducts music by Adams, Schumann and Brahms with Kian Soltani cello. Emelyanchev is a young Russian conductor and the Austrian-Iranian Soltani has been the principal cellist in Daniel Barenboim’s West-Eastern
Divan Orchestra. 25 Oct. Mario Brunello and Giovanni Sollima. These two cellists play music by Stravinsky, Bertali, Bach-Derevianko, Costanzi, Sollima and Queen. 28-30 Oct. Phillippe Herreweghe conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra playing music by Schumann and Mendelssohn with Alexander Lonquich piano.
Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P de Coubertin 36, www. santacecilia.it/en/.
ISTITUTO UNIVERSITARIA DEI CONCERTI To see the programme, which was not available in time for this list, see the website www.concertiiuc.it.
DANCE MILAN
TEATRO ALLA SCALA MADINA 1-14 OCT
This work was commissioned by La Scala and is the world premiere. It is based on the novel by Emmanuelle de Villepin, La ragazza che non voleva morire. Choreography by Mauro Bigonzetti with Roberto Bolle, AnnaDoris Capitelli mezzo soprano, tenor Chuan Wang and actor Fabrizio Falco. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammtici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.
Chotto Xenos (in pictures above and below) by the Akram Khan Dance Company explores the untold stories of colonial soldiers in world war one.
ROME
TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA NOTRE-DAME DE PARIS 14-19 SEPT
Based on Victor Hugo’s novel The Hunchback of Notre Dame, with choreography by Roland Petit, who created the work for the Paris Opera Ballet in 1967. This is a Opera National de Bordeaux and Ballet National de Marseille production. With Bakhtiya Adamzhan, the principal dancer of the Astana Opera and Ballet Company, and Alessandra Amato, Rebecca Bianchi, Susanna Salvi, Claudio Cocino and Alessio Rezza of the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma Ballet Corps. Teatro dell’ Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operadiroma.it.
ROMAEUROPA FESTIVAL MOBIUS
14-16 SEPT
Compagnie XY with Rachid Ouramdane are inspired by the flight of swallows, shoals of fish and the
changes nature. At the crossroads between dance and acrobatics 19 performers open the 36th edition of the REF festival, exploring the borders between nature, culture and the body. Auditorium Parco della Musica.
Wanted in Rome • September 2021 | 37
Romaeuropa Festival returns with its 36th edition this year.
MELLIZO DOBLE ISRAEL GALVAN AND NINO DE ELCHE
Choreographer Israel Galvan returns to REF with a reinterpretation of the traditional forms of flamenco in a surreal contemporary explosion of technique and emotion, sweat and tears, man and the machine. Auditorium Parco della Musica.
LOVETRAIN2020 EMANUEL GAT DANCE 23-25 Sept
A mix of dance and pop. 14 dancers of the Emanuel Gat Dance company in the choreography LoveTrain 2020 to the music of 1980s pop
rock group Tears for Fears. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina.
CHOTTO XENOS 25-26 SEPT
The Akram Khan Dance Company returns to REF with a new edition of REF Kids and Family with Chotto Xenos. Giulhem Chatir and Kennedy Junior Muntanga alternate in taking the young public on a journey through time to explore the untold stories of the colonial soldiers of world war one and ask the difficult questions about how war begins and how does it end? Khan is one of the best known British choreographers with a background in classical kathak training and contemporary dance.
Kathak dance is one of the forms of classical Indian dance based on the oral traditions of story telling. Auditorium Parco della Musica.
THE KÖLN CONCERT TRAJAL HARRELL 2-3 OCT
Trajal Harrell is in the forefront of American contemporary dance. The Köln Concert with seven dancers is created to the music of the same name by Keith Jarrett and Joni Mitchell. This piece was first commissioned for the Schauspielhaus Zurich. It is a combination of dance and theatre, with am emphasis on the strict rules of distance and caution. Teatro Argentina.
FESTIVALS ROMAEUROPA FESTIVAL 14 SEPT-21 NOV
Rome’s multidisciplinary arts festival returns with the 36th edition of its annual programme of contemporary dance, theatre, art, music, technology and events for children. This year there will be 86 shows taking place in around 20 venues across the city, involving more than 500 artists from 15 different countries, with guests seated in line with Italy’s
covid-19 distancing protocols. The international programme of live events is hailed by the festival’s artistic director Fabrizio Grifasi as a symbol of the restart of the artistic and cultural sector amid the demands of the “new, complicated present.” Highlights include the opening show by the XY acrobats (14-16 Sept) and the Akram Khan Dance Company with Chotto Xenos (25-26 Sept), both at the Auditorium Parco della Musica. See Dance section page xx. Villa
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Medici hosts a musical-literary event, dedicated to Italy’s Treccani dictionary, with Le parole delle canzoni by Ginevra and Francesco Pacifico (21 Sept) and Italian actor Ascanio Celestini stages Museo Pasolini, a theatrical performance in tribute to Pierpaolo Pasolini on the centenary of his birth (1-2 Nov), at the Auditorium Parco della Musica. For full festival details, including programme, venues and tickets, see Romaeuropa website, www.romaeuropa.net.
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Wanted in Rome | December 2017
lassical lassical
The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city. The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city. There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums. Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All
concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica. Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza,
Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone 32a, RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome.
often concerts, festivals and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com
Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and7 the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards. Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com 50 | Oct • Wanted2021 in Rome 422018 | September • Wanted in Rome
MUSIC MUSIC THEATR THEATRE CINEMA CINEMA VENUES VENUES
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MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA
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The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wantedshow in Rome website for The following cinemas movies in English weekly updates. or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for Adriano, Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 weeklyPiazza updates. Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 0686391361 Barberini, Piazza BarberiniMastroianni 24-26, 1, tel. Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello 0686391361 tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it
Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 068553485 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 068553485 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 066861068 Odeon, Piazza Stefano 22, tel. Nuovo Sacher, LargoJacini Ascianghi 1, 0686391361 tel. 065818116
Space Moderno, Piazza della 44, tel. Odeon, Piazza Stefano JaciniRepubblica 22, tel. 0686391361 06892111 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec06892111 chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111
ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance
Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it
pera
Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
op
ock
Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.
Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it
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Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731, Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it
heatre heatre
Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro 06684000314,www.teatrodiroma.net ww 06684000314, T Teatro Argentina, di Torre Argentina 52, tel. TeatroBelli, Belli,Piazza diLargo Teatro 06684000314, ww S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net ww www.teatrobelli.it T Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Teatro Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 ww Brancaccio, www.teatrobelli.it ww www.teatrobrancaccio.it T Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione,Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro ww Ghione, www.teatrobrancaccio.it ww www.teatroghione.it T Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. ww www.teatroghione.it 06684000311,www.teatrodiroma.net ww 06684000311, T Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311,www.teatrodiroma.net ww 06684000311, 50 | Jan 2019 • Wanted in Rome
Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel. 14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Wanted in • September | 43 51 Rome | Oct 2018 • Wanted2021 in Rome
TEATRO COSTANZI SEPTEMBER 14 - 19
MAURICE JARRE
NOTRE-DAME DE PARIS
CHOREOGRAPHER ROLAND PETIT BALLET MASTER PRODUCER LUIGI BONINO SET DESIGNER RENÉ ALLIO COSTUME DESIGNER YVES SAINT LAURENT LIGHTING DESIGNER JEAN-MICHEL DÉSIRÉ
MUSIC RECORDED BY ORCHESTRA AND CHORUS OF TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA, CONDUCTOR KEVIN RHODES
operaroma.it operaroma.it SPONSOR CIRCO MASSIMO 2021
FOUNDERS
FOUNDERS
PATRONS
PRIVATE SHAREHOLDERS
PRIVATE SHAREHOLDERS
PATRONS
Ettore Festa, HaunagDesign - Illustrazione di Gianluigi Toccafondo
A OPÉRA NATIONAL DE BORDEAUX AND OPÉRA DE PARIS PRODUCTION
Ettore Festa, HaunagDesign - IIllustration by Gianluigi Toccafondo
TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA CORPS DE BALLET
46 | September 2021 • Wanted in Rome
agorski
By Kate Z
DEEP-FRIED SAGE LEAVES Salvia Fritta is the perfect accompaniment to a glass of prosecco at aperitivo hour. Fresh sage is abundantly available in Italy and is easy to grow in pots at home, even on the smallest of balconies or windowsills. The distinct taste and aroma of the silvery, velvet-leaved herb adds an earthy, musky hint to many Italian recipes such as saltimbocca alla romana (veal escalopes topped with prosciutto and sage) and fresh ravioli prepared with burro e salvia (tossed in sage-infused butter). However, sage is rarely the star of the show, rather it is used as a component with which to build flavour together with other herbs or to complement pasta or meat. Yet anyone who tastes these deep-fried battered leaves will confirm that sage deserves its chance to take centre stage. Less common than the other fried snacks found in Italy, it is nevertheless the perfect bite to accompany a glass of prosecco at aperitivo hour; a kind of herby, Italian tempura. The recipe is simple, a basic batter of flour combined with cold beer or sparkling water, a pinch of salt and a pan of hot vegetable oil. Use the biggest sage leaves that you can find, dip in the batter to coat, then fry until golden and crisp. Be sure to devour them immediately while crunchy and aromatic.
Ingredients Salvia Fritta (makes 15-20) 80g 00 flour 120ml cold beer or sparkling water Pinch of salt 500ml vegetable oil, for frying Approx 15-20 large fresh sage leaves
Put the flour in a bowl with a generous pinch of salt. Gradually add the fridge-cold beer or sparkling water, whisking as you go, until you achieve a thick, smooth batter. Heat a saucepan of vegetable oil until it reaches about 170°C (you can test if the oil is ready by dropping in a little of the batter, it should bubble and start to fry immediately). Coat the sage leaves one at a time and carefully drop into the hot oil. You will need to fry them in batches so do not overcrowd the pan. Cook each leaf for about 3-4 minutes until the exterior is pale gold. Remove and place on kitchen paper to remove the excess oil before eating while hot.
Indirizzi
Terrazza S. Pancrazio, Via di Po Osteria delle Coppelle Roma,
Pianostrada Rome, Via delle Z Trattoria da Teo Roma, Piazza
Marzapane al Caffè dell’Ope
Eating outside in Rome: the ten best restaurants with terraces and gardens Our favourite restaurants and trattorie with terraces and gardens, where you can eat outdoors in Rome during the warmer months. GIANICOLO – A COOL HANGOUT Yugo a S. Pancrazio Different plates of fusion cuisine are served on the S. Pancrazio terrace, a little north of Trastevere. With a menu curated by award-winning chef Anthony Genovese, here you can tuck into raw dishes, carpacci, tartare and ceviche, which are all accompanied by refreshing cocktails. IN THE CENTRE – A TRENDY NIGHT OUT Osteria delle Coppelle Lunch or dinner of traditional but creative first and second courses. There’s saltimbocca alla romana with speck and fried sage, and you can also choose between pizza, bruschette, home made pastries (€6) or a huge salad (from €9 to €12), with the option to eat outside in the piazza. TRASTEVERE – A GOURMET MEAL Pianostrada An elegantly styled restaurant with a lovely courtyard-garden, a great long bar and an exposed kitchen. You can try anything from fried antipasti (€10-13.50), salads, gourmet panini (€12.50-14.50), and excellent bread that’s made in house. We loved the artichokes alla giudìa, and the fig and sun dried tomato focaccia. Mon closed. TRASTEVERE – FOR ROMAN CUISINE Trattoria da Teo Serving traditional Roman cuisine, such as excellent amatriciana, broccoli and skate soup, coda alla vaccinara, roast lamb, or even a fresh plate of fish. There are ten tables inside and a beautiful veranda in the piazza. The amatriciana costs €9 while a single courgette flower (which are absolutely excellent) costs €1.50. Sun closed. CENTRE – A GOURMET MEAL Marzapane all’Opera The menu at Marzapane is an array of traditional Italian dishes made with fresh ingredients and is particularly fish-focused. We enjoyed the tomato bread with jamon from Bellota (€13), insalata di lingua (salad with tongue) seasoned with turmeric, capers and mustard, mezze maniche pasta with amatriciana sauce (€19). Mon closed.
MONTI – GOURMET PIZZA AND CEVICHE Madre With a beautiful outdoor space, Madre is one of the coolest hangouts in Monti. Gourmet pizza and ceviche (€18) are the most popular dishes and they are indeed delicious. However prices are quite a bit higher than average – a Margherita with buffalo mozzarella costs €15, while La Roja, with prawns and smoked buffalo mozzarella, costs €26. AVENTINO – A GOURMET MEAL The Corner Marco Martini At this award-winning restaurant and cocktail bar created by Marco Martini, you can dine in the beautiful terraced garden with a Liberty-style decor and sit yourself down on one of the couches or sink into an armchair. For lunch it is possible to order from one to three dishes costing between €10, €18 and €25; while for dinner there are different tasting menus costing from €95 to €200. GARBATELLA – FOR ROMAN CUISINE Ristoro degli Angeli All ingredients come from the local Garbatella market and the menu boasts quite a few vegetarian recipes. For the first course there’s the focaccina with lard (made from organic Tuscan pork) for €8 while for your second course, try the rolled rhombus fish filled with ginger-seasoned vegetables (€20). Sun closed. IN THE CENTRE – A GOURMET MEAL Osteria Siciliana This little piece of Sicily seats around 60 people, half indoors and the rest outside. You could begin with stuffed artichokes (€13), vegetable caponata (€12), or sardines alla beccafico (€15). For your first course we recommend spaghetti with salted tuna and Sicilian lemon peel (€20) or lobster soup with spaghetti (€26). TESTACCIO – FOR ROMAN CUISINE Flavio al Velavevodetto Great cooking and a very pleasant atmosphere, with both an internal courtyard and a stunning terrace for eating outside. Fish is served on Tuesdays and Fridays, gnocchi on Thursdays, and roast lamb on Saturdays. Try the handmade pasta alla gricia, amatriciana and carbonara (€9) or the meatballs in sauce (€12).
www.puntarellarossa.it
Porta S. Pancrazio 32. Piazza delle Coppelle 54, tel. 0645502826.
Zoccolette 22, tel. 0689572296. dei Ponziani 7, tel. 065818355.
era Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, tel. 0648160504.
Madre Roma, Largo Angelicum 1, tel. 066789046. The Corner Marco Martini, Viale Aventino 121, tel. 0645597350. Ristoro degli Angeli Roma, Via Luigi Orlando 2, tel. 0651436020. Osteria Siciliana Rome, Via del Leoncino 28, tel. 0668805283. Flavio al Velavevodetto, Via di Monte Testaccio 97, tel. 065744194.
Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com
International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com
Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it
Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com
Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)
50 | September 2021 • Wanted in Rome
Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30
Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00
Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680
Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it
52 | September 2021 • Wanted in Rome
St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022
Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606
Emergency numbers • • • • • • •
Ambulance tel. 118 Carabinieri tel. 112 Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 Fire brigade tel. 115 Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 Police tel. 113 Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355
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