Wanted in Rome - May 2022

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THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

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CONT

4. SYNESTHESIA:TASTING COLOURS AND SEEING SOUNDS Andy devane

6. PLACING KINDNESS AND COMPASSION AT THE CORE OF A SCHOOL COMMUNITY

Rhiannon Phillips-Bianco

12. guide to Beaches near ROME

MISCELLANY

14. 16. 18. 20. 22. 38. 42. 45. 46. 48.

DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 PROGETTO GRAFICO: Dali Studio Srl IMPAGINAZIONE: Simona Castellari STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 30/04/2022

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THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

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EDITORIALS

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EXHIBITIONS art news Classical Dance OPERA

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Synesthesia Photo by Andy Devane Exhibition at Trajan's Markets See page 3


ENTS 4

SYNESTHESIA:TASTING COLOURS AND SEEING SOUNDS

6

34

PLACING KINDNESS AND COMPASSION AT THE CORE OF A SCHOOL COMMUNITY

classical

28 EXHIBITIONS


Science

SYNESTHESIA:TASTING COLOURS AND SEEING SOUNDS MULTISENSORY PROJECT ON DISPLAY AT TRAJAN'S MARKETS IN ROME UNTIL 22 MAY Andy Devane

I

magine hearing colour, seeing sounds or reading certain letters in different colours.

A new multisensory installation at Trajan’s Markets in Rome sheds light on this little-known phenomenon in a direct and abstract way.

This is synesthesia, a perceptual phenomenon in which stimulation of one sensory or cognitive pathway leads to involuntary experiences caused by intertwining connections between neurons.

Synesthesia poses questions relating to the processes linking humans, technology and spaces, providing a “rational and emotional sense of what it means to live among machines”, according to the presentation.

The word “synesthesia” has Greek origins and translates as “perceive together”. One of the most common responses is to see letters, numbers, or sounds as colours. Others include seeing a word and experiencing the taste of food, hearing a sound after smelling a scent, or touching an object and hearing a noise.

The installation is a response to our daily interaction with our environments “mediated through a vast universe of electronics, sensors and interconnected systems”, an “interdependent landscape that shapes the material complex surrounding us.” Synesthesia was unveiled on 21 April as part of the capital’s Natale di Roma celebrations to mark the 2,775th anniversary of the legendary founding of Rome by Romulus in 753 BC. The city’s mayor Roberto Gualtieri was joined at the inauguration by his predecessor Ignazio Marino, who served as the city’s first citizen from 2013 to 2015 and is now professor of surgery at Thomas Jefferson University (TJU) in Philadelphia. It was on Marino’s suggestion that Rome should host Synesthesia, conceived and overseen by architects and researchers Severino Alfonso and Loukia Tsafoulia who co-direct the Synesthetic research and design lab at TJU. The lab is part of the TJU College of Architecture and Built Environment (CABE) which offers a

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Science

Synesthesia can be visited until 22 May.

Peeping inside has some surprise results.

multidisciplinary discourse between design, art, technology, digital culture and health. Visitors arriving at Trajan’s Markets are faced with a huge black box with four entrances, blacked out with heavy curtains. Inside is a large deformed sphere, which glows alternately from white to pink and purple. Peep holes lure spectators whose eyes are photographed and projected in real-time on the exterior of the curious structure which houses an installation within an installation, complete with speakers, motion detectors and shock sensors. Multiple projections, linked to a central node, blink and flutter with fluctuating sounds, vibrations and light patterns, illuminating the darkness in unpredictable ways. Alfonso and Tsafoulia, from Spain and Greece respectively, say their installation is not a direct reference to the medical neurological condition but rather an investigation of the “combined sensorial and cognitive aspects that make up an experience”. Synesthesia provides a rational and emotional sense of what it means to live among machines that converse and raise awareness of the design potential behind responsive environments. It also offers the chance for “both historical reflection and prospective thinking” in response to the expanding use of computers, machines and automated objects in our daily lives.

The inner workings of the installation.

The installation, which was exhibited at the European Cultural Center as part of the 17th Venice Architecture Biennale last year, can be visited at Trajan’s Markets every day 09.30-19.30 until 22 May. For visiting details see www.mercatiditraiano.it while for more information about Synesthesia see www.synesthesiadesignlab.com. Wanted in Rome • May 2022 | 5


Education

PLACING KINDNESS AND COMPASSION AT THE CORE OF A SCHOOL COMMUNITY THE LEADER OF WELLBEING AND POSITIVE EDUCATION AT SOUTHLANDS BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL REFLECTS ON THE IMPORTANCE OF KINDNESS AND COMPASSION

T

eaching children to be kind is nothing new. Most teachers and parents have long taught them to share their toys; to invite others to play their games; and to help someone who has fallen over in the playground. These invaluable lessons teach children from an early age to care for others and develop empathy – both are fundamental in helping them build the kind of sustainable and healthy relationships that are vital for good mental health.

Rhiannon Phillips-Bianco In the last two years, the challenge of Coronavirus has led many schools to build on this with a more explicit focus on kindness and compassion. Aware of the positive impact this can have on both staff and student wellbeing, they have striven to prioritise it, perhaps with the words of the late Desmond Tutu in mind: “Do your little bit of good where you are; it’s those little bits of good put together that overwhelm the world.” The science behind the benefits of kindness is summed up

One of the greatest benefits of a holistic education at Southlands is the small class sizes; this allows for the kind of compassionate teacher-student relationships that are crucial in positive education.

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Education brilliantly by Simon Sinek in this short video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8afO6jkod_4. A Soft Skill or a Winning Strength? In ‘The Kindness Test’ podcast, Claire Hammond and Professor Robin Banerjee discuss whether kindness is a ‘soft skill or a winning strength’. Their reflections dispel the myths that kindness means weakness and that it has no place in leadership. Instead, they highlight the fact that kind leaders breed motivation and loyalty; and that kindness lies at the heart of all positive relationships. Banerjee goes as far to say that “…kindness might be one of the most important ingredients in terms of mental health.” They explain that kindness and compassion have an important place in the future of business and politics, a truth that Jacinda Ardern (Prime Minister of New Zealand) holds true to her heart: “One of the criticisms I’ve faced over the years is that I’m not aggressive enough or assertive enough, or maybe somehow, because I’m empathetic, it means I’m weak. I totally rebel against that. I refuse to believe that you cannot be both compassionate and strong.” Where better to focus on such an approach than in the classroom and with whole school communities? Kindness and Compassion in Action Having been Wellbeing and Mental Health Leader for three years at the British school in The Netherlands, in November I began teaching at Southlands British International School in Rome with some trepidation. I came from an environment in which kindness and compassion lay very much at the core of student and staff interactions and I knew I was fortunate. Would I find the same in my new setting? Thankfully, I was not disappointed. From my very first day, I saw and experienced simple acts of kindness throughout the school community: children who scooped each other up after a tumble on the football pitch; staff members who checked in one another after a tough day; friendly, cheerful “good mornings” in the courtyard from many people each morning; and support staff who were keen to help me settle into my new classroom. In addition to these important, every-day gestures, two things in particular struck me:

The outdoor education programme at Southlands provides students with the opportunity to cooperate in new and different ways outside of the classroom, fostering teamwork and championing collaboration.

The first was a personally challenging moment. On only day three of my new job, my fatherin-law sadly died. Propelled into a whirlwind of my husband’s and daughters’ grief, funeral arrangements and the many other difficulties that are faced at these times, I had to have two days off when I’d barely started. I was worried about how this would be perceived. Yet from the receptionist who gently broke the news, to my year-group colleague who took over the class; the deputy who told me to focus on my family, to my Headteacher who checked in on me by phone, I was met with kindness and compassion every step of the way. The second was the staff “Shout Out” platform that is shared digitally with all staff members. Every week, we can nominate one another, for any reason, as to why someone should receive a “shout out”. Winners are generated randomly as there are frequently 40 to 50 nominations and all of the nominations – including reasons – are shared with staff. What is striking is how often words such as ‘kind, caring, friendly, helpful and supportive’ appear. We are all committed and dedicated professionals and, amongst all that we do, what our colleagues clearly appreciate is undoubtedly those ‘soft skills’ that are our ‘winning strengths’. Wanted in Rome • May 2022 | 7


Kindness and compassion is at the heart of Southlands; even the youngest students in Nursery are given the opportunity to develop their emotional intelligence in exciting and creative ways.

Leaving my much-loved school in The Hague was hard. But, having made these observations, I soon knew I’d come to a place with a similar ethos and I feel so grateful. Fostering Kindness and Compassion Even Further Eager to build on this positive culture, we are taking a more explicit approach to teaching our students about wellbeing – both their own and others’. All staff have received training and they are being supported by a Wellbeing Team of 15 members of staff. Each of these initiatives aims to develop key elements of Emotional Intelligence, of which kindness and compassion are key. They are based on Positive Education principles that take a proactive and preventative approach to supporting student wellbeing and mental health. • Wellbeing Goals Students in Years 4 and 6 are trialling a pilot programme in which they explore different elements of Positive Education, make their own wellbeing goals and coach one another to achieve them. Their initial focus has been improving the language they use to express their emotions and exploring strategies they can use to manage them. Goal setting is an important aspect of this so that they can specify what they struggle with and what might help them, rather than feel there is a one-size-fits-all approach. When working with students of all ages on this, I have heard responses such as: “I 8 | May 2022 • Wanted in Rome

will take five deep breaths to calm my nerves before stepping onto a diving board in a swimming gala” and “I will clench my fists and relax them ten times if I get brain freeze in a maths test”. Students will reflect on their goals every two weeks and ask each other carefully modelled questions to provide mutual support and encouragement. Learning the SMART* approach to goal setting is highly beneficial at any age and empathy, kindness and compassion are at the core of coaching, even at its simplest level. • P4C - Philosophy 4 Children Students in Years 5 and 6 have been taking part in P4C sessions. Philosophical questions of all kinds are discussed, prompted by stories, short videos or images. But, in addition to the question itself, it is the development of key skills that is so important. Students are taught how to actively listen to one another; how to respond to someone else’s point of view in an appropriate and empathetic way; and how to express themselves articulately. These, of course, are vital life skills that benefit all aspects of learning. They are also, incidentally, essential to being kind and compassionate towards others. • Wellbeing Wednesday Newsletters These newsletters are shared with all staff every fortnight. They focus on one specific tool or strategy that is then taught and used


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Education repeatedly with students, as well as displayed in classrooms or corridors. Recent editions have focused on breathing strategies, grounding techniques and acts of kindness. SMALL, SIGNIFICANT AND CONSISTENT As a wellbeing leader, I have learnt that what is even more important than core initiatives, is the small, significant and consistent steps taken to emphasise kindness and compassion. Amongst the many that I have already seen at Southlands, these are the top three that I use in the classroom (that could also easily be used in the home and the office too): ^ Compliments – teach students how to give specific, thoughtful compliments. Teach them how to receive compliments too (it is amazing how bad we are at this as adults). And then send them on compliment missions – slip a compliment in someone’s pencil case; put one under someone’s pillow at home; or whisper one down the phone to a relative. Be genuine, be warm and watch the ripple effect. I have seen the impact this can have. Giving compliments is contagious and it boosts the wellbeing of everyone involved. ^ Quote of the Day – have a quote, with a striking image, on the board every day. Vary the themes but include kindness and compassion regularly. Make time to discuss what the quote means. Encourage students to suggest their own. Display them in the classroom as the collection builds. Watch how they inspire conversation, creativity and the odd moment when someone reads them over and over in search of inspiration. ^ Model kindness and compassion – perhaps I have left the most important one until last. We know as adults, whether teachers, support staff or parents, that our children follow our example, not what we say. If they hear us speak kindly, take the time to listen to someone’s worries or compliment a colleague / family member, they will do the same. It goes back to that ripple effect. It is always there. Working with students and staff on wellbeing is a privilege. Perhaps the greatest privilege has been learning that these soft skills are winning strengths; and that prioritising them has a positive impact 10 | May 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Students at Southlands learn to recognise when they need time to themselves to help them concentrate or to regulate their emotions - Calm Corners provide them with a calm and quiet space to do so.

on individuals, groups and whole communities. I challenge you to make kindness and compassion a priority in your school, home or workplace and to experience that privilege for yourself. * SMART goals - Specific, Measurable, Attainable, Realistic and Timely. Originally created by George Doran for making management goals and are now used in for Wellbeing Coaching too ** Professor Robin Banerjee on The Kindness Test podcast: https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/ w3ct1nvq Further reading: Emotional Intelligence, Daniel Goleman, 1995 Emotional Intelligence Coaching, Neale, SpencerArnell and Wilson, 2009 The Happiness Track, Emma Seppala, 2016. Rhiannon Phillips-Bianco Leader of Wellbeing and Positive Education and Year 6 Class Teacher Southlands British International School Southlands British International School, Via Teleclide 40, 00124 Roma, www.southlands.it.



Beaches TOP 10

BE ACHES N E A R RO M E For all you beach-lovers here is a selection of resorts within easy reach of Rome. Each one, ordered from north to south, offers either stabilimenti (private beaches with entrance fees and changing facilities and refreshments) or spiaggia libera (free beach with the option to rent a lounge chair and/or umbrella), and all have children’s facilities.

Sabaudia S. MARINELLA The northern-most beach on our list offers a small strip of white sandy beach with the choice of setting up camp at either the stabilimenti or spiaggia libera. There are two trains per hour leaving from Termini station for S. Marinella station and the journey takes about one hour. Popular with wind-surfers.

S. SEVERA Located about 50 km north of Rome and less than 10 km south of S. Marinella. Take one of the regular Civitavecchia trains from Rome and the beach is a ten-minute walk from the station. There are numerous stabilimenti, restaurants and spiaggia libera and it is also known for the Italia Surf Expo which takes place every July.

FREGENE A former chic hotspot of the 1960s and 1970s, Fregene boasts long stretches of sand with both stabilimenti and spiaggia libera. Along the coast there is also a wide selection of family-oriented restaurants and less expensive tavole calde. Rome’s club scene tends to flock to Fregene and nearby Ostia (see below) in the summer months. Although Fregene isn’t the easiest place to reach by public transport, Cotral buses depart from Rome’s Valle Aurelia metro stop (line A) and the journey takes about one hour.

OSTIA/CANCELLI Ostia and the Cancelli (gates) are along the coast nearest Rome. Ostia is loaded with often pricey and trendy stabilimenti, while the Cancelli offer free beaches equipped with restaurants and bathrooms. Public transport takes less than an hour and you can use the same metro/bus tickets for public transport in Rome. Take the 070 express bus from EUR, or the Roma-Lido train from Porta S. Paolo beside the Piramide metro station (line B). To reach the Cancelli get off at the last stop and take the 07 MARE bus until you reach the gates numbered 1, 2, 3 etc.

ANZIO/NETTUNO These beaches are only ten minutes apart and are easily reached from Rome. One train per hour leaves from Termini station, stopping first at Anzio and then at Nettuno. The journey takes 60-70 minutes and the beaches are about a 10-minute walk from the respective train stations.

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S. Marinella Anzio has the Blue Flag status given to beaches that meet the international quality standards for cleanliness both on the beach and in the water.

SABAUDIA Famous for its beauty and spaciousness, this stretch of beach is another Blue Flag area. Although predominantly spiaggia libera, there are a few stabilimenti to choose from. Cotral buses run from Rome’s Laurentina metro stop (line B) to Piazza Oberdan in Sabaudia. From here take the shuttle bus which runs up and down the local coastline. Sabaudia is also known for its Mussolini-era architecture.

S. FELICE CIRCEO Nearly 100 km south of Rome are the Blue Flag beaches and crystal clear waters of Circeo. Stabilimenti abound but look for the spiaggia libera nearest the port: it definitely merits the mini-trek. Cotral buses leave for Circeo from the Laurentina metro station in Rome. Get off at the last stop and walk for ten minutes until you reach the beach.

TERRACINA Located just 10 km south of Circeo. From Termini station take the hourly regional train for Naples and get off at Monte S. Biagio. From there, take the bus for about 20 minutes until you reach the beach. Terracina has as many spiagge libere as stabilimenti and both are well-kept and clean, making it a popular destination for families.

SPERLONGA The stabilimenti dominate this gorgeous getaway with picturesque views and Blue Flag status, leaving only narrow strips for the spiaggia libera. Take the regional train headed to Naples from Termini station and get off at Fondi-Sperlonga. Once there, take the Piazzoli bus for 20 minutes to Sperlonga, alternatively take a private taxi but be warned they are far more expensive than the €1.50 bus ticket.

GAETA This Blue Flag area has a quaint mediaeval town to explore and clean beaches. From Termini station take one of the frequent trains headed towards Naples, get off at Formia and take the bus for another 25 minutes until you reach Gaeta. For more information about transportation consult the Cotral and Trenitalia websites www.cotralspa.it, www.trenitalia.it.


Pools TOP 10

OU T DO O R P O O LS I N RO M E Come mid-summer in Rome, most of us are in need of the cool of an outdoor pool to relax by. But Rome isn’t awash with them and most are part of privately- owned swimming and sports clubs or upmarket hotels. Expect to pay upwards of €40 a day per person for entry to exquisitely chic surroundings at the top end of the spectrum, and at least €10 for perfectly adequate but som times crowded and scruffy cheaper pools. We’ve picked ten of Rome’s best, from New York-style rooftop pools with to-die-for views over the city and a nice line in cocktails to family-friendly cheap and cheerful clubs. The € symbols represent ranking by price.

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Small and very select city-centre oasis, La Ranocchia (meaning “little frog”) is shaded by overhanging palms and huge cream parasols. Arrive early as space is limited around this pool. Mon-Sun 10.00-19.30. Mon-Sat €55, Sun €60, weekly pass €350. Via Ulisse Aldrovandi 15 (Parioli), tel. 063223993, www.aldrovandi.com. €€€€

Think miles of water slides, wave machines, pools, South-Pacific-style thatched bars, shops and a mini-club. Weekdays 09.30-18.30, weekends 09.30-19.30. Daily adult rate €24, kids €19. Half day rates €19/17. Casal Lumbroso 33 (Aurelio), tel. 0666183183, www.hydromania.it. €€

+39 06 84482 651 romeinternationalschool.it 2. BELLE ARTI

Free at weekends and well worth a mention for its fantastic central location tucked behind a church on Via Flaminia. A quiet atmosphere makes it good for those with very young children. Mon-Fri 07.00-21.00. €15. Sat 07.00-20.00, Sun 08.00-20.00. €25. Children aged 7-13 accompanied by adult pay €10 week day / €15 weekend. Via Flaminia 158 (Flaminio), tel. 063226529, www.circolotennisbellearti.it. €€

3. CAVALIERI HILTON This Olympic-sized outdoor pool-witha-view is the crème de la crème of Rome’s pools if you like serious swimming. It’s large, luxurious and well worth the trip to Monte Mario. With a separate children’s pool. 08.00-19.00 daily (weekdays €40, weekends €80, sun lounger and towel included). Via Alberto Cadlolo 101 (Monte Mario), tel. 0635091, www.cavalieri-hilton.it. €€€€€

4. CIRCOLO VALENTINI Slightly shabby but friendly, family-run pool, used by locals. The adjoining restaurant will make up a lunchtime salad for around €4. 09.00-19.00 (weekdays €10, half-day €7, weekends €14/€10). Via della Marcigliana 597, corner Via Bufalotta (Talenti/Prati Fiscali), tel. 0687120207, www.circolovalentini.it. €

8. PISCINA DELLE ROSE Large pool perfect for families, swimming and canoeing lessons. Mon-Fri 09.00-21.00, weekends 09.00-19.00 (€16 per day, €14 half-day). Viale America 20 (EUR), tel. 065926717, www.piscinadellerose.it. €€

9. RADISSON SAS HOTEL Seriously smart and stunning heated rooftop swimming pool with sections for children and adults and poolside fine dining. 09.00-19.00 (adults €65 Mon-Fri, €90 Sat-Sun, children 50 per cent off ). Via Filippo Turati 171 (Esquilino), tel. 06444841, www.radissonblu.com/eshotel-rome. €€€€

10. S.S.D. VITA Professional, outdoor swimming pool arranges lessons for children and adults and has tennis courts and a gym. Mon-Fri 07.00-21.30. €12 daily. Sat 07.00-20.00. Sun 08.00-20.00. €15 daily rate weekend. Children aged 10 upwards pay adult rate. Kids aged 5-10 €8, kids under 5 free. Via del Fontanile Arenato 66 (Aurelio), tel. 066634202, www.vitaclub.it. €

5. CLUB LANCIANI A large tennis club with an outdoor pool offering lessons, free swimming and a children’s summer school. Weekdays 09.30-18.30, weekends 09.30-19.30. Adults €10.50/15, kids €7.50/11. Via di Pietralata 135 (Tiburtino), tel. 064181401, www.clublanciani.eu. €€

6. GRAND HOTEL GIANICOLO Part of a luxury hotel, this pool is located in elegant surroundings with palm trees and views of Trastevere from the Gianicolo hill. Lunch and dinner served at pool-side restaurant. 09.00-19.00, weekdays €25, weekend rate €35. Via delle Mura Gianicolensi 107 (Gianicolo), tel. 0658333405, www.grandhotelgianicolo.it. €€

Hydromania

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LAGO DI ALBANO This volcanic crater lake presents visitors with beautiful views of its clear water and surrounding forests. The picturesque towns along the shores serve as popular summer resort areas for Romans, including Castel Gandolfo, home to the summer papal palace whose gardens were recently opened to the public. On the other side of the lake is Palazzolo, a villa bought by Rome’s Venerable English College in 1920 and now open to guests. The towns surrounding the lake are known for their restaurants, shops and fruit farms. Swimming, fishing and boating are among the favourite activities for visitors, and the lake’s beach is located on the western shore. A simple 45-minute train ride from Termini, visitors can reach Lago Albano by taking the FL4 train towards Albano Laziale and getting off at the Castel Gandolfo stop.

around rome LAGO DI NEMI Lago di Nemi is a small and unique volcanic lake where divers in the 19th century discovered two large ships built for the notorious Roman emperor Caligula at the bottom of the lake, filled withbottom of the lake, filled with artworks and treasures. Replicas of the ships along with other artefacts are on display at the nearby Museum of Roman Ships. Travellers can also visit the natural caves around the lake, which were a favourite haunt of 19th-century foreign artists such as Turner. Nemi is associated with the cult of the Roman goddess Diana, and, for the last 80 years, an annual strawberry festival. Visitors can reach the lake by taking the SS7 Appia southbound as far as Genzano, and then following signs for Nemi. LAGO DI VICO Formed by the volcanic activity of Mount Venus, Lago di Vico offers a unique geological backdrop set amid lush woodland and hills. The surrounding nature reserve is a haven for wildlife, but what is most characteristic of the area are the hazel and chestnut plantations. Lakeside campsites and hotels offer swimming, sailing and horse riding. The two towns worth a visit are Ronciglione and Caprarola with its magnificent and recently restored Villa Farnese. Lago di Vico is a 90-minute drive from Rome taking the SS2 Cassia, and turning north at Sutri.

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LAGO DI BOLSENA Located on the site of the Vulsini volcano, dormant since about 100 BC, this crater lake has two islands and is surrounded by rolling hills and vegetation. The area around Montefisascone on the southeast shore of the lake is famous for its Est! Est!! Est!!! wine. The town of Bolsena in the northeast is a popular tourist resort in summer and it is here that the famous so-called Eucharistic Miracle took place in 1263 when a Bohemian priest is said to have seen blood coming from the host that he had just consecrated at Mass. Capodimonte on the southwest of the lake is also worth a visit. The lakeside area provides activities for sports and nature enthusiasts all year round. The best way to reach Lago di Bolsena from Rome is by car, as buses to Bolsena from Termini Station are infrequent. LAGO DI BRACCIANO Just north-west of Rome along the Via Cassia, Lake Bracciano is one of the most easily accessible lakes for Romans. The ban on motor boats (except for a little ferry) means it remains an ideal spot for swimming, sailing and canoeing. The Lega Navale operates a dinghy sailing school in Anguillara. Churches and historic sites are located in the three small towns around the lake: Bracciano, Trevignano and Anguillara. There are also places for camping and horse riding tours by the lake, which is just an hour on the Viterbo train line from Rome’s Ostiense station. The lake is overlooked by the 15th-century Orsini-Odescalchi castle in Bracciano, often chosen as the venue for jet-set weddings, and there is also an air force museum at nearby Vigna di Valle. LAGO DI MARTIGNANO This tiny volcanic lake just to the east of Lake Bracciano offers clean water and beaches with scenic views of the surrounding meadows and wildlife. Lago di Martignano is known for its outdoor activities such as horse riding, hiking, mountain biking and swimming. Umbrellas, loungers and luggage storage are available to rent along with canoes, sailboats and windsurfing equipment. It is also known for the hot sulphurous springs surrounding the lake. Arriving at Lago di Martignano by car is the easiest option. Reaching the lake by public transport involves taking the FM3 train to Cesano and opting for either a local bus or taxi.


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ARTandSEEK Please note that there may be some English-language cultural workshops visitsof to variation to opening times atand some museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For these activities due to covid restrictions. It event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforis advisable to check websites for visiting kids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandsedetails and make reservation before going. ekforkids.com. Bioparco Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and offers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it. Bowling Silvestri This sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.

16 | May 2022 • Wanted in Rome

There are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com. Casa del Parco Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com. Casina di Raffaello Play centre in Villa Borghese offering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Raffaello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadiraffaello.it.


Cinecittà World This 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special effects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it. Climbing Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, Thurs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473. Explora The 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it. Go-karting Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it. Gymboree This children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, offering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it. Hortis Urbis Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it. Il Nido Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.

Luneur Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it. Rainbow Magicland The 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it. Time Elevator A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. The time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it. Zoomarine This amusement and aquatic park outside Rome offers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.

Wanted in Rome • May 2022 | 17


Rome’s artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant importantstreet street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre. Here is where to is find Rome’s mainthe street artstreet projects murals. from the centre. Here where to find main artand projects and murals around Rome. Esquilino Esquilino Murals Murals byby Alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Pistone, Nicola Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, Diamond. PiazzaMafredo Manfredo Fanti 47. Piazza Fanti 47.

Marconi Marconi The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artistSeth Seth is located in a street artist is located in a former former soap factory Via Antonio soap factory on Viaon Antonio AvogaAvogadro, opposite dro, opposite Ostiense'sOstiense’s landmark Gasometro. For For details see landmark Gasometro. details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com.

Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz Metropoliz This This former former meat meat factory factory inin the the outskirts of Rome is nowa astreet street outskirts of Rome is now art art museumasaswell well as as being museum being home hometoto some200 200squatting squatters,migrants. many of The them some migrants. The Museo dell’Altrodi e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altroveor diMAAM, Metropoliz, or MAAM, Metropoliz, is only open is only open on Saturdays, and on Saturdays, and features the work features the work of more than 300 of more than 300 artists including artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Edoardo Kobra, and GioDiamond. Pistone, Pistone, Sten&Lex See Sten&Lex, Pablo Echaurren and MAAM Facebook page for details. Borondo. See MAAM Via Prenestina 913. Facebook page for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense Ostiense Fronte Del by by Blu.Blu. Via Via del Porto Fronte Del Porto Porto del Fluviale. Porto Fluviale. Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Fluviale. Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Magazzini Shelley by Generali. Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense. Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Pigneto Ostiense. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Pigneto Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

18 | May 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi. Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Fortebraccio. 2501 mural on Via Blu Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Francesco Baracca. Francesco Baracca. Prati Prati Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo Nuovo Mercato Trionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria. Andrea Doria. theSabotino. bear by Daniza the bear byDaniza ROA. Via ROA. Via Sabotino. Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Magee. Via Via The by Fintan Cristoforo Numai. Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals andand Gio Tunnel muralsby byMr MrTHOMS THOMS Pistone. Via Decio Mure.Mure. Gio Pistone. Via Decio Nido di di Vespe ViaVia del Nido VespebybyLucamaleonte. Lucamaleonte. Monte del Grano. del Monte del Grano. Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89. Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by byBlu. Blu.Via ViaCiciliano Ciciliano and and Via Via Murals Palombini (Casal Palombini (Casaldè dèPazzi). Pazzi). Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station. Metro B station. S.S. Basilio Basilio SanBa SanBa features features large-scale large-scale works on on the façades façades of in the of social-housing social-housingblocks blocks the disadvantaged north-east suburb of in the disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerasuburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. tion project includes works by Italian The project artistsregeneration Agostino Iacurci, Hitnesincludes and Blu works by Italian artists alongside Spain's Liqen. ViaAgostino Maiolati, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Spain’s Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, S. Giovanni Via Treia. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S. Giovanni Apulia corner of Via Farsalo. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

It’s aa New NewDay Daybyby Alice Pasquini. It’s Alice Pasquini. Via Via Anton Ludovico. Anton Ludovico. S. Lorenzo S. Lorenzo Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Feminicide mural by Elisa Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo. Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi. Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Mural by by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Via Aquilonia. Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia. S. Pietro S. Pietro Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S. di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo. Gallo. Testaccio Testaccio Hunted byby ROA. ViaVia Galvani. HuntedWolf Wolf ROA. Galvani. #KindComments by by Alice Pasquini, Via #KindComments Alice Pasquini, Volta, Testaccio market. Via Volta, Testaccio market. Tor Pignattara Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via ViaAntonio AntonioTempesta. Tempesta. Dulk. Etnik.Via ViaBartolomeo Bartolomeo Perestrello Etnik. Perestrello 51. 51. Coffee Break Etam Cru. Via Coffee Break by Etamby Cru. Via Ludovico Pavoni. Ludovico Pavoni. Tom by Jef Via Gabrio TomSawyer Sawyer by Aerosol. Jef Aerosol. Via Serbelloni. Gabrio Serbelloni. Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema PasoliniVia by Acqua Diavù.Bullicante. Former Cinema Impero, Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Alessi. Herakut. Capua 14. GaleazzoVia Alessi. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Herakut. Via Capua 14. Oddi 6. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia Tor Big Marancia The City Life scheme features 14-m The Big City Life scheme tall murals by 22 Italian and features interna14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and tional street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia andartists Jerico.including The idea international street was to transform area's of Mr Klevra, Seth,the Gaia andblocks Jerico. flats into an open-air art museum. Via The idea was to transform the area’s Tor Marancia. www.bigcity.life.it. blocks of flats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.


Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth. Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Wanted in Rome • May 2022 | 19


ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS AND MAKE RESERVATION BEFORE GOING. VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

20 | May 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.


Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Capitoline Museums

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

MATTATOIO

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Museo Canonica

Palazzo Merulana

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

Wanted in Rome • May 2022 | 21


ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ff-maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Visual art, design, architecture, fashion design and beauty apothecary in a 17th-century palace. Via dei Barbieri 7, tel. 0668805928, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Delfini, Via dei Delfini 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pastificio Cerere

This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

22 | May 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at affordable prices by artists working in various fields. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo

Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.



MAXXI amazes you, always art

architecture design photography cinema

24 | May 2022 • Wanted in Rome


Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Galleria Russo

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Galleria Varsi

Plus Arte Puls

A dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di Grotta Pinta 38, tel. 066865415, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Gavin Brown's Enterprise

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

RvB ARTS

Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.

Sala 1

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

La Nuova Pesa

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino d’Arte Moderna

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

Monitor

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

Nero Gallery

The Gallery Apart

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

Nomas Foundation

TraleVolte

This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

White Noise Gallery

Based in the S. Lorenzo district, this gallery exhibits unconventional work by young Italian and international artists. Via della Seggiola 9, tel. 066832833, www.whitenoisegallery.it.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it. Wanted in Rome • May 2022 | 25



where to go in Rome

WHAT’S ON

Nuit Romaine was performed at the French embassy in Rome to mark the International DayinofRome Dance• on April. Wanted May29 2022 | 27 Photo Noemi Ottilia Szabo. See page 35.


EXHIBITIONS WORLD PRESS PHOTO 28 APRIL-12 JUNE

Rome hosts an exhibition dedicated to the World Press Photo 2022 at Palazzo delle Esposizioni. The 2022 winner of the World Press Photo of the Year went to Amber Bracken for her image of wooden crosses in remembrance of indigenous children who died at a former residential school in Canada following the discovery of 215 unmarked graves in Kamloops, British Columbia. The show presents a national preview of the finalist photos of the international photojournalism competition which has been held every year since 1955. The 65th annual World Press Photo Contest drew entries from around the world: 4,066 photographers from 130 countries submitted more than 64,823 images. Each year an independent jury at the World Press Photo Foundation in Amsterdam selects images for this prestigious recognition of international photojournalism, with winners chosen in eight categories including general news, sports, the environment and portraits. The exhibition provides a fascinating

World Press Photo at Palazzo delle Esposizioni. Amber Bracken for The New York Times, World Press Photo of the Year 2022.

and often hard-hitting chance to look back over the dramatic world events that took place over the last year. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, www. palazzoesposizioni.it.

DISNEY: THE ART OF STORYTELLING 15 APRIL-25 SEPT

Palazzo Barberini stages an exhibition dedicated to Disney, the world's most famous animation studios. The interactive show displays original Disney sketches

from hand-drawn classics from the 1930s up to modern-day sequences created using the most sophisticated digital technology. The exhibition highlights Disney's extraordinary ability to translate literature into moving images, tracing the immortal stories back to the myths and children's fairy tales of yesteryear. The show provides insights into the artistic production of timeless characters and classic movies such as Snow White, The Little Mermaid, Fantasia and Pinocchio, as well as the films' much-loved soundtracks. Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, www.mostradisneyroma.it.

IL VIDEO RENDE FELICI, VIDEOARTE IN ITALIA 12 APRIL-4 SEPT

Disney exhibition at Palazzo Barberini.

28 | May 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Valentina Valentini curates an exhibition devoted to Italian video art taking place in two venues: Palazzo delle Esposizioni on Via Nazionale and Rome’s municipal Gallery of Modern Art (GAM) on Via Francesco Crispi. The show delves into the production of video art in Italy, a leading protagonist of the experimental genre, from the late 1960s to the present day. On display are 20 installations and about 300 multimedia works created by more than 100 artists. For details see Pala Expo website, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.


Scully, Tony Cragg, Anish Kapoor, Julian Opie, Grayson Perry, Yinka Shonibare, Jake and Dinos Chapman, Damien Hirst, Mat Collishaw, Annie Morris and Idris Khan. The pieces on show were created using diverse techniques including ceramics, painting, sculpture, drawing, photography and video. Palazzo Cipolla, Via del Corso 320, www. fondazioneterzopilastrointernazionale. it.

Cursus Honorum at the Capitoline Museums.

SUPER BAROQUE 26 MARCH-3 JULY

Art in Genoa from Rubens to Magnasco is the title of a new “Super Baroque” exhibition at the Scuderie del Quirinale, organised in collaboration with the National Gallery of Washington. The show is billed as “a journey among the aristocratic families, the splendour, the wealth, the power, the magnificence, the masterpieces and works of an entire era in the city that has become the centre of the world, Genoa, the Superb.” Comprising about 120 works from major Italian and American museums, as well as prestigious private collections, the exhibition traces the extraordinary period of artistic explosion and economic boom in 17th-century Genoa. The show features portrayals of pomp, luxury and landscapes by masters including Rubens, Van Dyck, Castiglione, Piola, De Ferrari and Magnasco. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via Ventiquattro Maggio 16, www. scuderiequirinale.it.

LONDON CALLING: BRITISH CONTEMPORARY ART NOW 17 MARCH-17 JULY

Palazzo Cipolla stages an exhibition of British contemporary art by 13 globally renowned artists with strong links to London. The 30 works on display were created by artists from various generations, all of whom have either lived or studied in London. The exhibited artists were born over five decades, between 1937 and 1978: David Hockney, Michael Craig-Martin, Sean

JAGO

12 MARCH-3 JULY

Palazzo Bonaparte reopens after two years with an exhibition devoted to the young Italian sculptor Jago, born Jacopo Cardillo in 1987, who is known for his hyper-realistic sculptures and his huge following on social media. The show features 12 works, ranging from small carved river stones to the more recent monumental sculpture La Pietà and his high-profile Habemus Hominem bust of Pope Emeritus Benedict XVI. Piazza Venezia 5, www.mostrepalazzobonaparte.it.

CURSUS HONORUM 24 MARCH-2 OCT

Under the title “The government of Rome before Caesar”, this exhibition at the Capitoline Museums aims to illustrate the political roles that formed the backbone of the power system that governed Rome in the Republican age. The artefacts on display, examining the life of patricians as well as plebeians, are explained by “talking statues” in each room. For visiting details see website, www.museicapitolini.org.

London Calling at Palazzo Cipolla. Black Square Night [CORSIVO] 2020 by Sean Scully.

Wanted in Rome • May 2022 | 29


doodles are contained on the backs of canvases, beneath fresco fragments, in the margins of manuscripts or alongside finished drawings. Villa Medici, Viale della Trinità dei Monti 1, www.villamedici.it.

GUIDO RENI AND ROME: NATURE AND DEVOTION 1 MARCH-22 MAY

Bill Viola at Palazzo Bonaparte. Martyrs series - Water Martyr (detail). Photo Kira Perov © Bill Viola Studio.

BILL VIOLA: ICONS OF LIGHT 5 MARCH-26 JUNE

Palazzo Bonaparte’s first show in its new season is dedicated to Bill Viola, the American video artist whose installations revolve around electronic, sound and image technology. Curated by Kira Perov, the exhibition comprises 10 works by Viola including Ascension (2000) and Water Portraits (2015). Piazza Venezia 5, www. mostrepalazzobonaparte.it

Galleria Borghese stages an exhibition of works by Guido Reni, the first such major show dedicated to the Baroque master in Italy in three decades. The exhibition is built around Reni’s painting Country Dance, recently bought back by Galleria Borghese from whose collection it was sold at the end of the 19th century. Curated by Francesca Cappelletti, the exhibition focuses on Reni’s interest in landscape painting in relationship to the other Italian and foreign painters active in Rome in the early 17th century. Galleria Borghese, Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5, www. galleriaborghese.beniculturali.it.

CRAZY: MADNESS IN CONTEMPORARY ART 18 FEB-8 JAN 2023

Chiostro del Bramante presents a large-scale exhibition project curated by Danilo Eccher. The works of 21 international artists fill the venue’s internal and external spaces

SCRIBBLING AND DOODLING: FROM LEONARDO DA VINCI TO CY TWOMBLY 3 MARCH-22 MAY

The French Academy in Rome at Villa Medici presents an exhibition devoted to the often overlooked excercise of doodling, examining the carefree scribbles of great artists through the ages, from doodle king Leonardo da Vinci up to master scribbler Cy Twombly. Comprising almost 300 original works dating from the Renaissance to the modern era, the exhibition sheds light on a free-flowing practice that has punctuated the history of artistic creation. In addition to da Vinci and Twombly, the exhibited artists include Michelangelo, Pontormo, Titian, Bernini, Picasso and Basquiat, whose

30 | May 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Scribbling and Doodling at Villa Medici.

“because madness cannot have limits.” The exhibition, described as unpredictable and immersive, features 11 site-specific works displayed in rooms not normally open to visitors. The 21 artists include Petah Coyne, Ian Davenport, Janet Echelman, Lucio Fontana, Anne Hardy, Thomas Hirschhorn, Alfredo Pirri, Gianni Politi. Chiostro del Bramante, Arco della Pace 5, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

GOOD NEWS: WOMEN IN ARCHITECTURE 16 DEC-11 SEPT

Rome’s MAXXI documents the growing presence of women, collectives and studio couples in the architectural profession as it shakes off the 20th-century stereotype of the architect of the charismatic (male) grandmaster. The exhibition examines how new figures are infusing new forces into contemporary architecture, with a particular focus on the work of international studios directed or cochaired by female designers. MAXXI, which was designed by the celebrated Zaha Hadid, pays tribute in the show to architects including Charlotte Perriand, Elizabeth Dillerand and Frida Escobedo alongside a series of video interviews. Museo nazionale delle arte del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4/A, www.maxxi.art.


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ART NEWS THE STORY OF THE ELEPHANT AND ROME’S LOST HILL

A new exhibition at Trajan’s Markets in Rome recalls how the skull and left tusk of an extinct elephant species were discovered during excavations to make way for Via dell’Impero in 1932. The fossilised remains belonged to a straight-tusked elephant (Palaeoloxodon antiquus) a prehistoric species that roamed Europe and western Asia during the Ice Age. The surprise discovery came about during frantic works to bulldoze a path through the Velia or Velian hill – a spur between the Oppian Hill and the north side of the Palatine – as part of Mussolini’s plans to connect the Colosseum with Piazza Venezia. The new thoroughfare, today called Via dei Fori Imperiali, was inaugurated on 28 October 1932 on the 10th anniversary of the March on Rome, and soon became the principal venue for parades during the fascist regime. However the price paid by Rome’s artistic and archaeological heritage – due to the destruction of the Velia and the rushed nature of the excavation – was very high. First of all it meant the almost total loss of the garden of Villa Rivaldi, a Renaissance-era palace whose grounds stretched as far as the Basilica of Maxentius in the Roman Forum. Cutting through the Velia yielded rich archaeological finds from the Roman era, in particular the remains

O. FERRETTI, Demolizioni per l'apertura di Via dell’Impero con i resti dell'elefante preistorico (1932), Museo di Roma, (© Roma - Sovrintendenza Capitolina ai Beni Culturali - Museo di Roma).

32 | May 2022 • Wanted in Rome

of a domus with well-preserved frescoes and numerous statues. The unearthed treasures were collected hastily and crated off to city warehouses. The most surprising discovery was made on 20 May 1932, when numerous fossiled remains came to light, among them the elephant skull and tusk. Antonio Muñoz, director of Rome’s department of antiquities and fine arts and supervisor of the works, wrote at the time: “Here, under the Velia hill was the zoological garden of prehistoric Rome”. The remains of the elephant are currently on display at Trajan’s Markets, on Via IV Novembre 94, alongside archaeological finds, archive film footage and paintings of the Villa Rivaldi garden, captured on canvas before it was lost forever. The exhibition, titled 1932, l’elefante e il colle perduto, can be visited until 24 May.

ROME REOPENS UNDERGROUND HOUSES ON CAELIAN HILL

The Case Romane del Celio is an underground archaeological site comprising 20 rooms on various levels under the church of SS. Giovanni e Paolo, dating from between the second and fourth century AD. Located near the Colosseum, the complex recently reopened to the public after being closed for more than two years due to covid restrictions. According to tradition, the site was the residence of the fourth-century martyrs John and Paul who were buried in their house after being executed. The complex features the remains of several Roman houses of different periods, including an insula, or apartment block, and a wealthy domus later converted into an early Christian church. Many of the rooms are decorated with frescoes and the site also includes a state-of-the-art museum room containing Roman amphorae, pots and ancient Roman bricks complete with their imprinted stamps. The museum, which opened in 2002, is located on Clivo di Scauro, an arched street between the Basilica di S. Gregorio and Villa Celimontana. The site can be visited from 10.00-16.00 every day except Tuesday and Thursday, until 31 October. For details see website, www.coopculture.it/it/poi/caseromane-del-celio/. Andy Devane


Wanted in Rome • May 2022 | 33


Classical ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA ROMANA LA CENERENTOLA GRAN HOTEL DEI SOGNI 3 MAY

A modern interpretation. Inspired by the story of Cinderella, to Rossini's music. Director Daniele Menghini, in collaboration with Opera Education and AsLiCo. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano, www.teatroolimpico.it.

QUARTETTO PROMETEO 5 MAY

This string quartet plays Shostakovich quartets no 4 (1949) and 5 (1952). Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina.

I CONCERTI DELL'UMANITARIA 7 MAY

This is the third concert in this series, with Marta Premoli, cello, and Simone Sgarbanti piano playing music by Rachmaninov and Shostakovich. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 18, www. filarmonicaromana.org.

LES PALADINS/ HANDEL HEROINES 12 MAY

Les Paladins explore French and Italian music of the 17th and 18th centuries. The concert is dedicated to the arias that Handel sung by the heroines in his operas Lotario, Giulio Cesare and Alcina. The soloist is the French soprano Chantal Santon. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina.

ASSOLI 20 MAY

This is the sixth concert in the Assoli series to promote contemporary music and musicians. With Carlotta Libonati viola. Music by Bach, Berio, Penderecki, Carnini and Lanzalone. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 18, www. filarmonicaromana.org.

34 | May 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Manfred Honeck conducts the S. Cecilia Orchestra and Chorus and the Schola Gregoriana del Pontificio Istituto di Music Sacra.

ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA TUGAN SOKHIEV 5-7 MAY

Tugan Sokhiev conducts the S. Cecilia Orchestra and Chorus performing music by Rachmaninoff, Borodin and Tchaikovsky. With baritone Garry Magee. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36, www.santacecilia.it.

MANFRED HONEK 12-14 MAY

Manfred Honeck conducts the S. Cecilia Orchestra and Chorus and the Schola Gregoriana del Pontificio Istituto di Music Sacra performing Beethoven's symphony no 1 and Mozart's Requiem. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36, www.santacecilia.it.

GIL SHAHAM VALERIO APREA 20-21 MAY

Gil Shaham conductor and violinist, with the narrator Valerio Aprea, perform Kreisler's Praeludium and Allegro in the Style of Pugnani, Chevalier de Saint Georges violin concerto no 9, Arvo Pärt's Frates and Vivaldi's Four Seasons. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36. Sala S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it.

JAAP van ZWEDEN 26-28 MAY

Jaap van Zweden conducts the S. Cecilia Orchestra performing Beethoven's symphony no 5 and Shostakovich's symphony no 5. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36. Sala S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it.


DANCE MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA SILVIA BY DELIBES 11-26 MAY

The choreography of this 19thcentury work by Delibes is by Manuel Legris. This is a co-production with the Weiner Staatsballett. Legris retains the original spirit but updates it with an interpretation that appeals to today's public. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

ROME TEATRO DELL'OPERA DI ROMA The ballet programme is a fraction of its previous self with only one ballet before the summer season at the Terme di Caracalla.

THE CORSAIR 11-15 MAY

With the etoile, the principal dancers and the ballet corps of the Teatro dell'Opera di Roma ballet school. The conductor is Alexei Baklan and the choreography by Jose Carlos Martinez. The story is based on a poem by Lord Byron and the original music was by Adolphe Adam. It was then added to in the 19th century by Cesare Pugni, Delibes Riccardo Drigo, just as the choreography went through various revisions, especially in Russia. Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www. operaroma.it.

TEATRO OLIMPICO EXODUS NOGRAVITY 26 MAY

The Nogravity physical theatre dance company performs

Nuit Romaine was performed at the French embassy in Rome to mark the International Day of Dance on 29 April. Photo Noemi Ottilia Szabo.

Exodus. The Biblical story of Exodus is repeated time and again throughout history. It is a story of migration especially in the Mediterranean. This work examines the journeys of immigration across deserts and the sea on a timeless journey, updated to take account of modern times. The choreography is by Emilano Pellisari and Mariana who is also the principal dancer with five other acrobatic dancers. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it.

FOR THE INTERNATIONAL DAY OF DANCE Nuit Romaine

First screened on 29 April, the International Day of Dance, this beautiful film was made in conjunction the French embassy and the Teatro dell'Opera di Roma with choreography of Angelin Preljocaj and costumes by Dior. With soloists Eleonora Abbagnato and Friedmann Vogel. Filmed in the extraordinary setting of the French embassy in Rome. Wanted in Rome • May 2022 | 35


OPERA MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA ARIADNA AUF NAXOS BY RICHARD STRAUSS 15 APRIL-3 MAY

This production was created for the Salzburg Festival by the director Sven-Eric Bechtolf and then modified for the Vienna Opera. The part of Ariadne is sung by Krassimira Stayanova, with the debut of American soprano Erin Morely and tenor Stephen Gould. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

UN BALLO IN MASCHERA BY GIUSEPPE VERDI 4-22 MAY

This is a new La Scala production conducted by Riccardo Chailly. It is directed by Marco Arturo Marelli, who has a number of interesting modern operas to his name, in his debut at La Scala. Francesco Meli takes the role of Riccardo, with baritone Marco Salsi and soprano Sondra Radvanovsky as Amelia. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

LA GIOCONDA BY AMILCARE PONCHIELLI 5-27 JUNE

This La Scala production, conducted by Fédéric Chaslin, was first directed

at La Scala by Davide Livermore in 2020. Ponchielli's unusual opera is one of the few that features all of the voice types. It was first performed at La Scala in 1876 but was then revised three times until its final version was staged at the theatre in 1880. The story is set in Venice and draws on Victor Hugo's prose play Angelo, Tyrant of Padua. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

RIGOLETTO BY GIUSEPPE VERDI 20 JUNE-11 JULY

This new production of an old favourite for La Scala is by director Mario Martone and conducted by Michele Gamba. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

ROME TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA ERNANI GIUSEPPE VERDI 3-11 JUNE

Conducted by Marco Armillato and directed by Hugo de Ana in association with the Sydney Opera House. Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www. operaroma.it.

MASS BY LEONARD BERNSTEIN 1 JULY-5 JULY

Bernstein's musical theatre work for singers, players and dancers was first performed at the Kennedy Centre in Washington DC in 1971 and was part

Opera recitals and arias at Palazzo Doria Pamphilj throughout June.

36 | May 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Director Marco Marelli makes his debut at La Scala with Verdi's Un Ballo in Maschera.

of the inaugural programme. This is a new Teatro dell'Opera di Roma production. Conducted by Diego Matheuz and directed by Damiano Michieletto. Terme di Caracalla for the Teatro dell'Opera summer season.

CARMEN GEORGES BIZET 15 JULY-4 AUG

This production of Bizet's opera in four acts is conducted by Jordi Barnàcer directed by Valentina Carrasco. It was first produced for the summer season at the Terme di Caracalla in 2017. Terme di Caracalla for the Teatro dell'Opera summer season.

PALAZZA DORIA PAMPHILJ JUNE

Throughout June there are a concerts and recitals of arias and duets often accompanied with aperitifs and sometimes with dinner in various parts of Palazzo Doria Pamphilj. For details see Roma Opera Omnia, http://www. romaoperaomnia.com



lassical lassical

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city. The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city. There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums. Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All

concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica. Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza,

Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone 32a, RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome.

often concerts, festivals and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and7 the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards. Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com 5038 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome | May 2022 • Wanted in Rome

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The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wantedshow in Rome website for The following cinemas movies in English weekly updates. or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for Adriano, Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 weeklyPiazza updates. Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 0686391361 Barberini, Piazza BarberiniMastroianni 24-26, 1, tel. Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello 0686391361 tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 068553485 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 068553485 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 066861068 Odeon, Piazza Stefano 22, tel. Nuovo Sacher, LargoJacini Ascianghi 1, 0686391361 tel. 065818116

Space Moderno, Piazza della 44, tel. Odeon, Piazza Stefano JaciniRepubblica 22, tel. 0686391361 06892111 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec06892111 chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111


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The Corsair TEATRO COSTANZI MAY 10 - 15

MUSIC ADOLPHE-CHARLES ADAM, CESARE PUGNI, LÉO DELIBES, RICCARDO DRIGO CONDUCTOR ALEXEI BAKLAN CHOREOGRAPHER JOSÉ CARLOS MARTÍNEZ TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA ORCHESTRA, ÉTOILES, PRINCIPAL DANCERS, SOLOISTS AND CORPS DE BALLET

Ettore Festa, HaunagDesign - IIllustration by Gianluigi Toccafondo

A TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA PRODUCTION

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ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

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Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

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Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,

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Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net 50 | Jan 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel. 14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Wanted Rome • May 2022 | 41 51 | Octin2018 • Wanted in Rome


WANTED junior inROME St George's Green Team Tackle Litter in Rome A group of children in Year 6 at St George's British International School are members of the Green Team. They meet weekly and discuss various ways in which we can make our planet a better place to live, focusing on environmental issues. The children are working towards the climate change YUNGA badge. As a part of this project, they decided to tackle litter problems within the school and beyond. They have been extremely successful within school, encouraging recycling and litter

Dear Wanted in Rome, I am part of the Green Team in St George's British International School. We are 11 year olds that have a goal to make our school and world a better place. We have seen bins being put on fire all over Rome and want to put a stop to it. Next to my apartment they are always being set on fire, and that is really dangerous as if there was some wind the house would have been set on fire. The bins are never organised properly and even if this did happen it would not have helped as the people that occasionally collect the rubbish don’t bother to sort the rubbish and just throw it all in the same bin. There is also rubbish everywhere.

picking activities. They then turned their attentions towards the city of Rome. Here are the letters they have written to various people in Rome, including the minister of the environment and the Comune di Roma. The letters were posted and emailed. Wanted in Rome have been the first to respond. We hope to hear from others very soon! Rachel Johnson, Junior Green Team Facilitator, Year 5 Teacher, Year 5 and 6 Phase Leader.

Educate children and adults as well about how harmful it is to the environment when you are not careful with your rubbish And finally help the people who empty the bins make it easy to sort the rubbish. We have written to Comune di Roma, as well as the ministry of environment. We have attached the letters. We would be very grateful if you could give this and our other letters attention. Thank you for your time. I look forward to hearing from you soon,

But don’t lose hope. Here are some things I think could help:

Annabella Green Team

Make posters and put them up near bins so that you can explain what you need to do.

Ministro della transizione ecologica Dear Mr Cingolani, We are the Green Team of St George’s British International School La Storta. We are young 10-year-old children trying to change the world that we all know so well and make it a better place, but we are going to need some help. We are writing to the Department of the Protection of Nature and Sea to decrease the use of microplastics. As you already know, this is one of the main problems that we have to change but we need the Community of Rome to know this is too. We took these pictures with a domestic microscope to show how little plastic can be. Microplastics are plastic items that are smaller than 5 mm and can have a variety of shapes such as small particles or fibers.

St George's Junior School Green Team. Back row: Aaron, Annabella, Viola, Emily and Lara. Front row: Jonathan, Giacomo and Isabella.

42 | May 2022 • Wanted in Rome

The largest contributor of microplastic is used in personal care products or the wear and tear of car tyres and a very important fact is that also foods like apples and carrots have the highest level of microplastic particles. Contamination in fruit and vegetables is thought to occur when plants suck water containing microplastics up through


their roots. To avoid this try to stop using micro plastics and plant things organically.

Invitation: We have got new ideas to share with you and we are looking forward to hearing your point of view.

Animals often eat plastic because they are not always able to distinguish plastic from food... Some fish eat plastic because they mistake it for fish eggs and bite at floating plastic in the water. Turtles see plastic bags as jellyfish that are usually on their menu. To try to avoid this you could put more bins in any of the places that have the most of these problems.

We are officially inviting you to our next Green Team meeting on 2 May 2022 at 12.30 at St George's British International School La Storta.

Microplastics have been shown to absorb toxic chemicals and carry harmful bacteria, The Guardian reported. And plastic fibers have been found in human lung tissue. The new research is the first evidence that these tiny plastic pieces can remain airborne for long stretches and over long distances. We expect you to tell this to the Community of Rome: Buy plastic-free cosmetics. Change the way you do your laundry. Don’t use single-use plastics. Only use public transportation. We are writing to protect the health and resilience of our marine ecosystems, our Green Team is determined to rise to the occasion and save the planet from microplastics. We are doing this because I’m sure that in a few years all the children and young animals around the world will want to live on a clean, safe planet. Problems/ solutions examples: Rwanda became the world’s first plastic-free nation in 2009 and 10 years after a ban on all plastic bags and packaging. Why shouldn’t Italy be the 2nd one? Austria has one of the highest recycling rates across the globe and since 2020 has banned plastic bags. It’s not far from us and I love spending my family holiday there. India will ban most single-use plastics by next year as part of its efforts to reduce pollution — but experts say the move is only a first step to mitigate the environmental impact. We have to motivate other countries to stop the bad habit of using single-use plastics. We demand that you improve and expand the uses of Public Transport, ban plastic bags, refill bottles of Soap, Shampoo or detergent and more. We expect that you will hold competitions about Upcycling (reuse and give a second life to the items we have at home) in Rome. This will save their money, promote innovation and business, and most importantly, will be part of saving our planet like the one our school has developed this week. Look at the example of Jellyfish in the picture attached to this email. This piece of art was made with cardboard from an egg box and bubble wrap. Response: Within 14 days of this letter we would like to have a response from your 3rd department committed to the protection of the Sea because we want to take action as soon as possible.

Giacomo and Jonathan The Green Team, St George LSJS. Dear Comune di Roma We are writing to you because we would like to solve a problem that has emerged. We are eleven year olds, and are part of The Green Team in St George's British International School. The Green Team is a club from our school, our job is to think of ways to improve our relation with the environment in our school. Now we have expanded our horizons and we would like to bring all of Rome’s attention to the problems regarding the environment. We have noticed that a lot of bins in Rome often overflow and that is a really big problem that needs to be solved. We know the AMA tries their hardest to collect all the rubbish but there are always lots of little bits left around. If the rubbish is left there, boar’s are attracted and rip the bags apart, leaving the rubbish everywhere. This makes a very bad stench that affects the community and it won't be a very pleasant place for the homeless. To stop this we can leave huge signs everywhere to remind everyone to help. A possible solution would be to have the rubbish collectors come more often and a way to do this would be to give them an incentive to come: something like recyclable water bottles or a free lunch, without any plastic utensils and there is this place called Villa Pamphili and it's where you can buy recyclable picnics. But you are probably thinking it's a lot of money, however that was just an idea so instead give them something that is connected to our goal: for example: a few seeds to grow plants. We think that the rubbish collectors don’t come too often because they don’t feel valued. And to make the job fun to reel them in we thought of an idea. We thought maybe they can take pictures of the rubbish bins they have emptied and they will get points and when they get a certain amount they get one of the prizes. Another problem that has come to our notice is plastic not being recycled properly. A possible solution would be to place a few rules saying that you can't just throw plastic anywhere, instead you have to throw it in the bins that are meant just for plastic. We know that you have already done some efforts but we think that together we can do more to help our environment. Thank you for your time and we hope to hear from you soon. Yours sincerely, Lara and Emily Green Team, St George's British International School.

St George's British International School, Via Cassia km16, La Storta, 00123 Rome, www.stgeorge.school.it.

WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR: For young writers and artists Wanted in Rome accepts creative contributions from students in all international schools in Rome. Articles on topics related to either the student’s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 1,000 words and we also accept illustrations. Teachers who would like to propose a project can contact editorial@wantedinrome.com.

Wanted in Rome • May 2022 | 43


44 | May 2022 • Wanted in Rome


agorski

By Kate Z

FETTUCCINE AGLIO, OLIO, BACCALÀ E PECORINO Baccalà is cod which has been preserved by first salting and then drying so the crusty hunks of fish must be rehydrated and desalted by soaking them in cold water for at least 24 hours with regular rinsing. In Rome baccalà is traditionally eaten on a Friday when it will generally be served with ceci (chickpeas, which also need a good soak before cooking). The rinsing and cleaning is a bit of a fuss so many of the city’s delicatessens will sell ready-soaked fillets of baccalà on Thursdays and Friday; look out for them by the doorway, submerged in large tanks of water. The bright white fillets are often prepared either pan-fried or baked, while Rome’s takeaway shops and pizzerie will serve them battered and deep fried. This recipe blends the tradition of baccalà with the classic pasta recipe of aglio, olio e peperoncino (oil, garlic and chili) and mixes the cod with a hefty sprinkling of pecorino romano to thicken the sauce. Romans are usually horrified by the idea of pairing fish and cheese together but this recipe is a good way to convince them that it works perfectly. Pair the dish with a well-structured dry white wine which will stand up to the strong flavours of baccalà and pecorino. A good local choice from Lazio is the organic white Capolemole by Marco Carpineti.

Ingredients Serves 2 • 250g of desalted baccalà • 2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley (about 1 large fillet) • Half a glass of white wine • 180g fresh fettuccine • 2 handfuls of grated pecorino romano • 1 clove of garlic • Extra virgin olive oil • 1 fresh red chili

The first thing to do is taste the baccalà, occasionally it is not completely desalted so if this is the case rinse it in cold running water for a few minutes to remove the excess salt. Chop the baccalà into small cubes and finely chop the parsley, chili and garlic. Heat a generous splash of olive oil in a non-stick pan and gently fry the garlic and chilli until soft, then add the parsley and baccalà. The baccalà will lose some liquid, once this has begun to dry out add the white wine and cook for a few more minutes until the alcohol has evaporated. Make sure there is still some liquid left in the pan. Meanwhile cook the pasta. A couple of minutes before the end of cooking time, drain, add to the frying pan and finish cooking in the sauce until al dente. Once the pasta is cooked turn off the heat and add the pecorino, stirring all the while, to thicken the sauce. Serve immediately.



The best cheap seafood in rome It’s difficult to dine out on a delicious fish supper without breaking the bank, which is why we have put together this list of five small osterie and trattorie that serve high quality and fairly priced fish dishes. S. LORENZO DA FRANCO AR VICOLETTO At Franco al Vicoletto in S. Lorenzo you can enjoy simple fresh fish dishes. There’s a set menu costing between €25 to €30 or you can order from the à la carte menu. The ‘Tiberio’ menu starting at €25 includes a mixed seafood salad, sautéed mussels and clams, fried vegetables and anchovies with octopus, a mixed fish grill, lemon sorbet and a quarter of a litre of house wine. TRASTEVERE PEPPO AL COSIMATO Peppo al Cosimato serves traditional peasant fish recipes. The eatery opened on Via Natale del Grande in 2017 under the former owners of Caffè Perù. Among the dishes on offer, you can enjoy bruschette with marinated anchovies and mackerel (€3), lasagne with cuttlefish (€10), and the catch of the day (€14). It’s a large restaurant with an outdoor terrace.

PIGNETO LA SANTERIA DI MARE This locally named ‘pizzicheria di pesce' (fish delicatessen) in Pigneto has a laid back, retro feel. We highly recommend the fish pagnotelle (small round loaves) for €10 and the greater amberjack fish alla cacciatore for €12. TORMARANCIA LA VONGOLA VORACE This small trattoria serving fish in Tormarancia offers, among many dishes, a fish trio (panzanella salad with shell fish, cured salmon and marinated anchovies) and pici (pasta) with clams for €10. APPIO AND BARBERINI LA PESCERIA RE DI ROMA E BARBERINI This fantastic fishmonger has both a small restaurant and a street food stall. You choose your preferred fish at the bar and then sit down to eat. The spaghetti alle vongole for €12.50, fried calamari for €10.50 and fish balls for €9.50 come highly recommended.

www.puntarellarossa.it

La Santeria di Mare, Via Del Pigneto 209, tel. 0689230730. Peppo al Cosimato, Via Natale del Grande 9, tel. 065812048. La Vongola Vorace, Largo Luigi Antonelli 15, tel. 0631055314. La Pesceria Re di Roma, Via Appia 234, tel. 3938834361. La Pesceria Barberini, Via di S. Nicola da Tolentino 23, tel. 0642903789.

Indirizzi

Da Franco Ar Vicoletto, Via Dei Falisci 2, tel. 064957675.


Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com

Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

48 | May 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30



Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

50 | May 2022 • Wanted in Rome

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers • • • • • • •

Ambulance tel. 118 Carabinieri tel. 112 Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 Fire brigade tel. 115 Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 Police tel. 113 Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355





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