Wanted in Rome - February 2017

february 2017 â‚Ź 2,00

The english language magazine in Rome

where to go in rome

art and culture entertainment GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 9, Numero 2

contents

titolo

no. 2 / February 2017 editorials

ARTEMISIA GENTILESCHI: TRAGEDY AND TRIUMPH Andy Devane. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 LAY CENTRE AT FOYER UNITAS MARKS 30 YEARS Laura Ieraci . . . . 6 STARLINGS: KINETIC ARTISTS OR URBAN PESTS? Martin Bennett. . . 10

what’s on

EXHIBITIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 classical. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 POP, ROCK, JAZZ. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 DANCE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 OPERA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 OPERA NOTES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 THEATRE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Academies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 CHILDREN. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 sport. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

2

classified columns. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 MISCELLANY

MUSEUMS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 art galleries in rome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 SKIING NEAR ROME. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 useful numbers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47

21

Next publication and classified dates Next publication dates are 1 March and 5 April.

Classified advertisements placed through our office, Via di Monserrato 49, should arrive not later than 13.00 on 19 February (for 1 March) and 26 March (for 5 April).

However classifieds may be published around the clock on our website www.wantedinrome.com. They will appear in the next available paper edition of the magazine.

I Rioni di Roma painted by Mario Camerini Watercolour and ink See interview page 26 www.mariocamerini.it.

Wanted in Rome office Via di Monserrato 49 - tel/fax 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com editorial@wantedinrome.com www.wantedinrome.com www.wantedinmilan.com

Direttore responsabile: Marco Venturini Editrice: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 Progetto grafico e Impaginazione: Monia Lucchetti - Dali Studio Srl Stampa: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c.

Diffusione: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425.

Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131 del 6/3/1985.

Finito di stampare il 30/01/2017

30

Copies are on sale at: Newsstands in Rome Feltrinelli International, Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878.

Anglo American Bookstore, Via della Vite 102.

Wanted in Rome, Via di Monserrato 49.

You can find us on

34 February 2017 | Wanted in Rome

1

ART

Andy Devane

ARTEMISIA GENTILESCHI: TRAGEDY AND TRIUMPH

Rome exhibition offers new reading of Gentileschi’s trailblazing artistic legacy

T

he stellar career of Italian early baroque painter Artemisia Gentileschi has long been overshadowed by her tumultuous life story, whose tragedies and triumphs continue to captivate the public imagination more than three and a half centuries after her death.

Artemisia Gentileschi e il suo tempo, a major exhibition currently at Rome’s newly-reorganised Palazzo Braschi, places the focus firmly on the Roman artist’s masterful artistic legacy and professional success in a male-dominated age. The show challenges the widelyheld narrative that the rape of the teenage Gentileschi had an everlasting effect on her artistic output, leading to the modern-day interpretation of her as a feminist heroine. This reputation as a painter of powerful women is enhanced by her recurring depiction of figures such as Bathsheba, Cleopatra, Esther, Judith, Mary Magdalene and Susanna, many of whom feature prominently in Palazzo Braschi.

Comprising 29 Gentileschi paintings

2

Wanted in Rome | February 2017

Artemisia Gentileschi’s SelfPortrait as a Lute Player was likely commissioned by Grand Duke Cosimo II de’ Medici and is one of her few surviving self-portraits.

art alongside 66 works by her peers, the exhibition illustrates the rich exchange of ideas and influences between artists working in Italy in the 17th century, underlining their various pictorial mechanisms such as expressive gestures, intimate scenes, dramatic lighting and luxurious fabrics.

The exhibition, which has taken three years to realise, features works on loan from museums and private collections around the world, and includes many Gentileschi paintings never shown in Rome before. The combined effect provides a comprehensive chronological overview – with very few gaps – of Gentileschi’s prolific and powerful artistic career.

The exhibition aims to downplay several clichés attributed to the artist, according to Nicola Spinosa, the former superintendent of the Neapolitan Museums Network, who curates the Naples section. The first relates to the level of influence on her of the famous “and too often cited” rape, while the second refers to her “somewhat unquestioning reputation as a caravaggista”, a reference to Caravaggio, a close friend of her artist father Orazio Gentileschi and a significant early influence on the young Artemisia.

The exhibition wishes to debunk the notion that Gentileschi was a “chameleon”, simply “parroting the style” of other artists, according to the curator of the Rome section, Judith Mann of St Louis Art Museum. “She is much more complicated than that,” says Mann, describing Gentileschi as a “very accomplished, very nuanced painter of narrative.”

Born in Rome in 1593, Gentileschi was the eldest of five children, and only daughter of Orazio to whom she was apprenticed in her early teens following the death of her mother. In 1610, aged 17, she made her stunning debut with Susanna and the Elders, a focal point of the Palazzo Braschi exhibition. Describing it as an “exceptional achieve-

ment”, Mann says that Gentileschi’s use of a “full-frontal nude” to interpret a biblical tale was particularly daring during the CounterReformation era.

The fact that this masterpiece was painted by a female, a teenager at that, during a time when women artists were confined to portraits and still lifes, was even more mouldbreaking.

Gentileschi’s childhood in Rome was plagued by the city’s violence and crime, meaning that she was excluded from many of the circles of artistic production Susanna and the Elders was a remarkable debut for the 17-year-old and patronage. The Gentileschi. year after she painted Susanna and the Elders, Gentileschi is unperturbed by the fact that she began taking private lessons from her has just decapitated Holofernes whose father’s artist colleague Agostino Tassi, head is carried in a basket by her maid. who raped the 17-year-old girl in her Mann points out that the heroine’s “unown bedroom. Nine months later Orazio characteristic” and decidedly masculine took Tassi to court for reneging on his al- stance is, however, offset by her “pearl leged promise to marry his daughter to earrings and fabulous clothing.”

Gentileschi’s personal situation was “restore her dignity”.

Gentileschi’s trauma was compound- worsened by a loveless union and the ed by a gruelling seven-month public premature deaths of several children. trial in which she testified courageously However she countered this litany of against her abuser, a despicable charac- misfortune with tenacity and talent, ter whose murky past included accusa- becoming the first woman accepted tions of raping his sister-in-law and hav- to the Accademia del Disegno. Florence also allowed Gentileschi to meet ing his wife murdered by bandits.

Days after the trial ended, Gentiles- other artists of the day, such as Cristochi entered into a hastily-arranged mar- fano Allori who introduced her to inriage with the minor Florentine artist fluential figures including Cosimo II de’ Pierantonio Stiattesi and moved to Flor- Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany, while ence in 1613. She painted Judith and her patron Michelangelo Buonarroti her Maidservant Abra, another highlight the Younger helped her win prestigious at Palazzo Braschi, at around this time. commissions and acquainted her with Sword slung over her shoulder, Judith the scientist Galileo.

February 2017 | Wanted in Rome

3

art In 1620 Gentileschi returned to Rome and was now free to explore the capital as well as interact with her artist peers, notably French painter Simon Vouet, who was so impressed with her work that he painted her portrait, palette in hand.

It was around this time that she painted her most famous work, Judith Slaying Holofernes, another highlight at Palazzo Braschi. The piece is said to be inspired by Caravaggio’s painting of the same theme, painted two decades earlier and on permanent display at Rome’s Palazzo Barberini, although sadly it is not possible to compare both versions at the Palazzo Braschi exhibition.

While Caravaggio’s Judith distances herself from the task at hand, her sword gliding effortlessly across Holofernes’ neck as if through butter, Gentileschi has conjured up an infinitely more savage atmosphere. She presents a fiercely determined Judith, ably assisted by her maid, in the act of beheading the terrified Holofernes who is pinned to his bloodstained bed while blood squirts from his neck. The painting is a second, more successful version of an almost identical earlier work, which has just arrived at Palazzo Braschi after featuring in an exhibition exploring the influence of Caravaggio’s art on the work of his contemporaries and successors at London’s National Gallery.

In 1630 Gentileschi moved to Naples,

making her Neapolitan debut with the celebrated Annunciation. Here an unusually un-virgin-like depiction of Mary pales almost into insignificance compared with the overpowering angel Gabriel in the foreground, another painting that shows Gentileschi was ahead of her time.

In 1638 Gentileschi travelled to London, apparently at the invitation of Charles I, where she joined her ailing father at the Stuart court. She worked closely with him on paintings for the ceiling at the Queen’s House at Greenwich, as well as undertaking numerous other works before his death in 1639, while remaining in England for a further year or two to fulfil her commissions.

Little is known of her movements after her eventual return to Italy. The Palazzo Braschi exhibition concludes with a later version of Susanna and the Elders, painted in 1652, when the artist was in her final years. Unlike the early work, here Susanna holds her head high, appearing to rise above the schoolboy whisperings of the Peeping Tom elders.

Records indicate that Gentileschi worked in Naples until her death, the exact date of which is unknown but is believed to have been in or around 1656.

Much like Caravaggio, Gentileschi was largely forgotten until the 20th century. Renewed interest in her work was sparked in 1916 when a research paper

by Italian art critic Roberto Longhi de-

scribed Gentileschi as “the only woman in Italy who ever knew about painting, colouring, doughing, and other fundamentals”. Interest grew further in 1947 following the publication of Artemisia, a fictional account of Gentileschi’s life by Longhi’s wife, Anna Banti.

Mann describes it as a “phenomenon in the history of art that we understood Gentileschi’s life far earlier than her painting.” However, for a painter who in modern parlance “shattered the glass ceiling”, the gender gap on the art market between father and daughter Gentileschi remains substantial. In January 2016 the painting Danae by Orazio was bought at auction in New York by the Getty Museum in Los Angeles for more than $30 million. Two years earlier, Mary Magdalene in Ecstasy by Artemisia was sold at auction in Paris for €865,000.

The Gentileschi exhibition represents a significant step upwards in the programming of Palazzo Braschi, and comes after the management of the Scuderie del Quirinale recently passed to Italy’s culture ministry. The move means that Palazzo Braschi, which overlooks Piazza Navona, now plays a more prominent role in the capital’s cultural scene.

Featuring no less than 15 severed heads, this magnificent exhibition showcases Gentileschi’s drama, violence and superb artistry, providing a triumphant return for the pioneering and fearless Roman artist.

Gentileschi (left) and Caravaggio (above) approach the same subject matter, Judith beheading Holofernes, in a markedly different manner.

Palazzo Braschi, Piazza di S. Pantaleo 10 (Piazza Navona), until 7 May. A series of art history talks examining the female characters in Gentileschi’s paintings takes place every Thursday in February. www.museodiroma.it/ sede/palazzo_braschi.

February 2017 | Wanted in Rome

5

titolo RELIGION

Monsignor Guido Marini, back row centre right, with the Lay Centre community in January 2017.

Laura Ieraci

LAY CENTRE AT FOYER UNITAS MARKS 30 YEARS The Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas has promoted ecumenical and inter-religious dialogue for three decades

I

n a city more than 2,770 years old, an organisation’s 30th anniversary is not something most people would consider notable — unless its impact has touched every corner of the globe.

This is the case of the Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas, a Rome-based, Catholicinspired non-profit institute that has worked tirelessly and quietly to build bridges of peace and dialogue with people from all over the world. With a mission firmly focused on forming lay people for leadership in the Catholic Church, as well as on promoting friendship and understanding among Chris-

6

Wanted in Rome | February 2017

tian denominations and different religions, the 30th anniversary of The Lay Centre is worth noting.

The centre’s closing event for its anniversary year last December — a packed conference hall, including Vatican diplomats, leaders of the Catholic Church and many millennials, for an evening with best-selling author and Jesuit priest James Martin — was a testament to the esteem and recognition the centre has earned in Rome since its modest start.

The Lay Centre was founded in 1986 by two Catholic lay women: Donna Orsuto, from the United States, and Riekie van Velzen, from the Netherlands.

The meeting of the two in Rome was a matter of circumstance. Van Velzen, at the time, was working at the reception desk of an ecumenical hospitality centre called Foyer Unitas, where Orsuto was also working while studying at the Pontifical Gregorian University.

Foyer Unitas, located at Piazza Navona, was run by the Ladies of Bethany, a Dutch religious order. Their mission had included hosting ecumenical observers in Rome during the historic Second Vatican Council (1962-1965), which sought to re-focus the Catholic Church in its mission in the modern world.

When the Ladies of Bethany decided

RELIGION to downsize their efforts due to ageing members and changes in Rome’s municipal codes for guesthouses, Orsuto and van Velzen came up with the idea to keep the ecumenical and welcoming spirit of Foyer Unitas alive in a new initiative they called The Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas. It would offer an intentional and international structured community for lay students studying at Rome’s pontifical universities.

The Lay Centre opened on 1 October 1986 on the Piazza Navona site, with nine students from three countries and four Christian denominations.

Thirty years later – and following a brief period on the grounds of the Pontifical Irish College – the Lay Centre has moved to the Coelian Hill property of the Passionist Retreat of Sts John and Paul, amid secluded gardens near the Colosseum.

The centre hosts an average of 22 students and visiting professors per year from various countries, Christian denominations and religious faiths, and its co-founders Orsuto and van Velzen continue in their respective roles as director and administrator.

Since its opening, nearly 300 graduate students and visiting professors from more than 60 countries have called the centre home during their time in Rome. Many of the students who have lived at the Lay Centre have gone on to teaching or research in universities worldwide. Some hold positions as deans of Catholic universities.

Others are working in various leadership roles within the Catholic Church in their countries of origin.

“Many of the former residents have become theologians and together we have been able to reflect more profoundly on the role and mission of lay people in the Catholic Church and in the world,” said Orsuto, a professor of spirituality at the Pontifical Gregorian University and recently-appointed consultor to the Vatican’s Congregation for Divine Worship.

“I really believe what Pope Francis says about the future of the Church depending on the laity,” she said. “I believe that lay people have an important contribution to play in the future of the Church.

“I also think that the young scholars who stay at the Lay Centre, through their friendship with one another, build up important networks of dialogue and peace,” she added.

The mission of the Lay Centre has expanded over the years, from solely providing a community to lay students to offering faith formation programmes for English-speakers living in Rome — more than 180 such programmes to date – through its Vincent Pallotti Institute, named after the 19th-century saint who spent his life in Rome promoting the role of the laity, over a century before the Second Vatican Council’s document on the importance of the laity in the Catholic Church. It has also organised or facilitated more than 220 educational programmes for visiting groups of students, professors and retreatants from around the world.

Local and international programmes combined, some 12,000 people have come through the doors of the Lay Centre in the past three decades.

Over the years the Lay Centre has also reached out more to people of

The Lay Centre hosted a colloquium involving the Cambridge Muslim College and the Center for Islamic Studies of the University of Tübingen in May 2016.

February 2017 | Wanted in Rome

7

religion

The Lay Centre inaugurated its 30th year with a lunch for ambassadors to the Holy See.

various Christian denominations and religions, said Orsuto. “The Lay Centre has always had hospitality, welcoming the other, as its focus,” she said. “We have deepened that initial inspiration by welcoming people from other religions.

“There has been a marvellous mutual exchange of gifts. The opportunity to welcome people from other religions has been key,” she said.

To date, this spirit of hospitality has allowed The Lay Centre to welcome residents representing 13 religions, including Jewish, Muslim, Buddhist, Unitarian Universalist, and T’ienti Teachings. Among the Christians, the majority have been Roman Catholic.

However, other Christians have included Anglican, Coptic, Lutheran, Methodist, Orthodox, Reformed, SyroMalabar and Chaldean Catholic.

YEARLONG CELEBRATION A number of events were organised throughout last year to mark the 30th anniversary. These included a benefit evening in Washington, DC at Georgetown Visitation on 1 February. Celebrations in spring 2016 included a conference in Rome in May on the theme Justice and Mercy: Christian and Muslim

Perspectives. The event was held during the annual programme of the Cambridge Muslim College and the Center for Islamic Theology of the University of Tübingen in Rome.

Three interwoven anniversary events in July highlighted the past, present, and future of The Lay Centre.

A colloquium, co-sponsored by the College Theology Society – a Roman Catholic organisation of lay and religious teachers of undergraduate theology – and the Lay Centre, gathered theologians and academics in fields of religion to discuss the theme Full, Conscious, and Active: Lay Participation in the Church’s Dialogue with the World. Archbishop Paul Gallagher, the Holy See’s Secretary for Relations with States, gave the keynote address.

Orsuto said this past summer’s colloquium was among her favourite moments of the previous three decades.

Another highlight for her has been “welcoming our Muslim friends from Cambridge Muslim College and the Center for Islamic Studies of the University of Tübingen.”

However nothing compares with the daily sharing “with people from every part of the world” at mealtimes, in conversation and in prayer,” she said. The daily “dialogue of life” that

occurs among Lay Centre residents is the hallmark of the life and mission of the centre.

Given the growth and accomplishments over 30 years, the Lay Centre board and staff decided to take some time this past year to reflect on its future mission as a small organisation and on how best to use its resources.

While some re-focusing is underway, Orsuto said, the commitment to the centre’s fundamental mission remains the same.

“As we launch into the next decade, we have come to the conclusion that, more than ever, the Catholic Church and society need well-trained leaders, as well as men and women committed to dialogue,” said Orsuto.

Looking ahead, Orsuto said she hopes the Lay Centre will “continue to draw lay men and women from every part of the world, who will excel academically and who, through their experience at the Lay Centre, will develop into leaders promoting ecumenical and inter-religious dialogue.”

SOME EVENTS IN 2017 With this in mind, the Lay Centre invites readers to join them for lectures and conferences in early 2017: on 21 Jan it hosted a talk by Bernard McGinn, a theologian affiliated with the University of Chicago, on What is mysticism and is it for every Christian?

On 16 February the six-week Thursday morning lecture series starts offering reflections on different approaches to the theme Welcoming the Stranger.

The centre will round off March with the annual Lenten retreat led by James Corkery SJ and the closing Mass will be celebrated by Rev. Paul Gallagher.

For more details and additional information about events, please contact the centre directly at www. laycentre.org. You will receive a warm welcome.

February 2017 | Wanted in Rome

9

ENVIRONMENT

Martin Bennett

STARLINGS: KINETIC ARTISTS OR URBAN PESTS? Annual return of starlings is a nightmare for many Romans

T

hey have returned every year since 1925-1926. Four million by one count. Stormi di storni.

Flocks of starlings. And with navigation skills to make Christopher Columbus seem amateur, “storm” is just what they do, above Euro Palasport, along Lungotevere, above Stazione Tiburtina and Piazzale della Radio to name four of their favourite haunts.

One minute these most highly-organised and gregarious of birds adorn the sunset, flexing their claim to be the planet’s most consummate kinetic artists, split-second Calders and Kandinskys, skyscrapering Jackson Pollocks. (Strength in numbers: the bigger the flock, the more likely a member will locate any nearby predator and alert the others.) The next minute, like a supersize djinni back into his lamp, they are funnelling with pinpoint accuracy into a handful of trees which then start to throb beneath the weight. Dormitori collettivi, is the experts’ term – and how. At least as long as their leaves permit. Viale Trastevere’s planes are particularly overbooked while the starlings have largely abandoned the Stazione Termini following the recent pruning of the area’s ilex trees.

10

Wanted in Rome | February 2017

Wintering starlings have been recorded in Rome’s Piazza Venezia area since 1937.

Arrival time is typically about halfan-hour before sunset. This is after a day’s gorging on insects, grains and even animal fodder, all over an area estimated as being as wide as 80 km.

(Starlings are notoriously omnivorous; according to one study up to 5 per cent of Italy’s entire olive production disappears down their throats – equally a daily rate of 10 olives per bird. Likewise

for cherries, grapes, maize, name your food source.) Come dusk, back in their tree hotels, they can recover energy and rest their metabolisms. Obeying their own pecking order, the heavier alpha males hog the cosier central part of the tree.

So far so good. Now the downside.

Birds, starlings one might say in particular, have no bladder; the same or-

ENVIRONMENT

Starling aerobatics provide a spellbinding spectacle over Rome.

gan was dispensed with by evolution to lighten body-weight. Nature, that best of best engineers, also arranged for a wafer-thin liver and hollow bones to impart a further aerodynamic edge.

Hence, wherever they congregate, mingling with city’s petrol fumes come industrial amounts of acrid-smelling guano. Last autumn a letter to Italian daily La Repubblica complained that neither is Verano cemetery spared, cypresses being another of the bird’s favourite trees. Along Lungotevere the same substance often proves a peril for motorcyclists and pedestrians; guano mixed with feathers, rotting leaves and motor oils is skiddier than the slipperiest soap.

One estimate has the aptly-named sturnis vulgaris producing 40 grams of guano daily, putting the species up (or down) there with the pigeons in Venice’s S. Marco Square, which can together produce a ton in the same time span.

And solutions? The main problem is numbers. In Italy these are reckoned to have doubled in the last decade. In the US, 120 starlings were introduced in the 1890s in New York’s Central Park; by 1950 they’d multiplied a million times and are the US’s most populous species. Back in Rome, one tactic has been to invite a father and son team of falconers from Latina where their five Harris’s (Texan) hawks are normally used to scare seagulls from rubbish tips.

One might argue that this is only to shift the problem to another district.

Faced with starling numbers, the most colossal scarecrow – another solution posited – could become discouraged.

Starlings with their intelligence grow accustomed to this repellent as well.

As they do to so called dissuasori sonori, sound devices, the most ingenious of which amplify, via recordings, the starlings’ own distress call.

Add to the list fireworks, and in parts of rural France dynamite. This not to mention poison, and then detergents air-sprayed onto the birds’ dormitories to wash away the protective oils in the birds’ plumage and so induce hypothermia. Crying fowl, forgive the pun, animal rights activists have predictably risen to the birds’ defence. Against such measures is also the fact that by killing off even as much as 10 per cent, the others’ food supply goes up, lengthening their lifespan, until numbers can increase further. Less complicated is simply pruning the birds’ favourite trees. Such as those of Piazza dei Cinquecento outside Termini and Piazza Benedetto Cairoli near Largo Argentina; last years’ bird-hotels are now a few spindling and empty stumps with, so far at least, not a speck of guano in sight. Problem solved? Visit Stazione Tiburtina and there the birds throng instead.

February 2017 | Wanted in Rome

11

ENVIRONMENT Meaning, perhaps, if you cannot beat them, join them, at least in a spectator capacity. Up with the Colosseum or St Peter’s, their air shows are one of the wonders of Rome. Now with wonder, now with a pinch of apprehension, read into their synchronised aerodynamics what you will.

To this sometime language teacher, they spell impromptu alphabets plus pulsing punctuation marks, multicolons, “questamation” marks, mostly beyond our comprehension. To Pliny the Elder they conjured a sort of ball gravitating toward its own centre (Naturalis storia). To Italo Calvino, via his Signor Palomar, they are “An aerial mob which seems on the point of dispersing like dust-grains suspended in liquid, only to grow denser as if an invisible conduit continued to add swirling particles without ever saturating the solution.”

And how do they avoid bumping into one another? Making us humans with our daily traffic jams seem distinctly retarded, one starling changes direction and a fraction of a second later their immediate neighbours follow suit, no hapless traffic warden needed. One study states the birds’ reaction time as being 13 times faster than our own, while another attributes the birds with the ability to count up to seven.

With all the sky as their stage, let us be groundlings to the spectacle.

A year ago they featured in a videoartist’s exhibit in the Casa di Goethe on Via del Corso, though they are far more impressive in real life than on a tiny screen. Compared to their talent for shape shifting – high-flying carousel or military manoeuvre (Calvino again), or dance of the seven veils to the umpteenth power, a feathered cloud – the most exuberant Aeropittura of the Futurists seems almost static. Look up then; puzzle and admire, but remember to carry an umbrella.

The birds produce a vast quantity of guano which leaves an acrid smell and is hazardous for Roman traffic.

SIDE NOTES In recent decades the number of common starlings spending winter in Rome has increased dramatically. The birds have moved progressively from their agricultural habitats into urban environments and are attracted by the capital’s ideal living conditions: a warmer urban climate, less rainfall and wind, and the virtual absence of predators. Leading starling expert Alessandro Montemaggiori of La Sapienza University told Wanted in Rome that although it is impossible to put an exact number on the city’s starlings, he estimates the figure at between 1 and 1.5 million.

The starlings began settling in Rome during the winter of 1925-26 and by 1937 their presence was recorded at Piazza Venezia, Villa Torlonia and Piazza Cavour. In the early 1980s they began roosting in plane trees across the Tiber, between Ponte Matteotti and Ponte S. Angelo. In a recent article in Italian newspaper Corriere della Sera, Fulvio Fraticelli, a leading ornithological authority in the capital, notes a major change in the starlings’ migration patterns. Fraticelli says that northern Europe’s starlings are moving progressively south, swapping Scandinavia for the Mediterranean, as a result of climate change. Starlings are

protected under the European Union’s Birds Directive, along with the more than 500 other wild bird species occurring naturally in Europe. The EU law was established in 1979 as a response to growing concerns about declines in Europe’s wild bird populations due to pollution, habitat loss and unsustainable land use. In recent years the European Commission found Italy to be in breach of the directive – the oldest piece of EU legislation on the environment – after several northern Italian regions adopted regional by-laws authorising the hunting of wild birds, including starlings. The starling, or sturnus vulgaris as it is known scientifically, comes from the Sturnidae family of birds.

There are numerous collective nouns for starlings – the most common being “murmuration”, however less poetic terms include “scourge” and “vulgarity”.

Starlings are renowned for their mimicry, with a repertoire of about 15–20 distinct imitations of other wild birds, and are even known to copy man-made sounds such as mobile telephones, ambulance sirens and car alarms. Starlings are gregarious and their roosts can number several thousand birds.

Andy Devane February 2017 | Wanted in Rome

13

rome’s major

Museums vatican museums

For more details see www.museiincomuneroma.it and www.beniculturali.it.

Below is a list of the major museums and archaeological sites in Rome. Book tickets for many Rome museums and archaeological sites on tel. 060608 or online at www.060608.it. Book tickets for the Borghese Museum, Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia, Palazzo Barberini and Palazzo Corsini online at www.beniculturali.it.

Vatican Museums

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, mv.vatican.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. MonSat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel.

0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons. org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums. state museums Baths of Diocletian Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel.

0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo.

09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria. borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paint­ings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30.

Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum Lungotevere Castello 50, tel.

066819111, www.castelsantangelo. com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

COLOSSEUM, ROMAN FORUM AND PALATINE Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30.

Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing).

Guided tours in English and Italian.

14

Wanted in Rome | February 2017

Crypta Balbi Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.

0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus.

09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.galleriaborghese.it/corsini/en.

National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.3019.30. Tues closed.

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.gnam.beniculturali.it.

08.3019.30. Mon closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale Via Merulana 248, tel. 0646974832, www.museorientale.it. Interesting national collection of oriental art with some special exhibitions from its own collection and special loans. Tues, Wed, and Fri. 09.00-14.00. Thurs, Sat, Sun. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian on Sun (11.00 and 17.00).

MAXXI Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum

Palazzo Altemps Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. An-

Castel S. Angelo

Roman Forum

cient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel.

064824184, www.galleriabarberini. beniculturali.it. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and an­tiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.0019.45. Mon closed.

VILLA FARNESINA Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays. city museums Centrale Montemartini Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, en.centralemontemartini.org.

Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00.

Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Capitoline Museums Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, en.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The mu-

nicipal modern art collection. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

MACRO Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www. en.museomacro.org. The city’s collection of contemporary art, plus temporary exhibition space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed. Also MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00.

Mon closed.

Museo Barracco Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel.

0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.0019.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel.

060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00.

Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Napoleonico Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.0019.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

private museums Casa di Goethe Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

CHIOSTRO DEL BRAMANTE Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

Galleria Colonna Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it.

Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only.

Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

GIORGIO DE CHIRICO HOUSE MUSEUM Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00.

Guided tours on prior booking.

February 2017 | Wanted in Rome

15

rome’s most active and contemporary

art galleries 1/9 Unosunove 1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel.

0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ffmaam.it.

Associazione Culturale Valentina Moncada Gallery holds exhibitions of international artists who are active in the international scene today. Via Margutta 54, tel. 063207956, www.valentinamoncada.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel.

0664760163, www.exelettrofonica. com.

Federica Schiavo Gallery Hosts large solo and group shows of well-known contemporary artists. Piazza di Montevecchio 16, tel. 0645432028, www.federicaschiavo.com.

Fondazione Giuliani per l’Arte Contemporanea The Giuliani Foundation for Contemporary Art is a private non-profit foundation that produces three contemporary art exhibitions each year. Via Gustavo Bianchi 1, tel. 0657301091, www.fondazionegiuliani.org.

Fondazione Pastifico Cerere This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel.

0645422960, www.pastificiocerere. com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

FONDAZIONE MEMMO Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www. fondazionememmo.it.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape.

Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel.

06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume. com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Franz Paludetto Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via Giovanni Pascoli 21, tel.

06 68210988, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.

0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch This contemporary art space is dedicated to exhibiting works on paper.

Via di Pallacorda 15, tel. 0668891936, www.galleriamlf.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel.

066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italian and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel.

066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

GALLERIA MUCCIACCIA Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Giacomo Guidi Arte contemporanea This contemporary art gallery presents exhibitions from a diverse group of Italian and foreign artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Corso V. Emanuele II 282-284, tel. 0668801038, www.giacomoguidi.it.

February 2017 | Wanted in Rome

17

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

GALLERIA VARSI A small but dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di S. Salvatore in Campo 51, tel.

0668309410, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Monitor

STUDIO SALES DI NORBERTO RUGGERI The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www. galleriasales.it.

Il Ponte Contemporanea Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via di Panico 5559, tel. 0668801351, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

La Nuova Pesa Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino d’Arte Moderna Contemporary art galley that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Monitor This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Monserrato Arte ‘900 This gallery in the Campo de’ Fiori area represents a range of contemporary Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 14, tel.

348/2833034.

MONTORO12 Gallery promoting work by contemporary Italian and international artists. Via di Montoro 12, tel. 0668308500, www. m12gallery.com.

Nomas Foundation Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

18

Wanted in Rome | February 2017

tography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel.

0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Operativa Arte Contemporanea A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

PIAN DE’ GIULLARI Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 339 / 7254235, 366 / 3988603, www.piandegiullari2. blogspot.com.

PLUS ARTE PULS Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 335 / 7010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

RvB ARTS “Affordable art” gallery specialising in contemporary painting, sculpture and photography by Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www. rvbarts.com.

Sala 1 This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www. salauno.com. s.t. foto libreria galleria Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art pho-

T293 The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

The Gallery Apart This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel.

0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

TraleVolte This contemporary art gallery focuses on the relationship between art and architecture and hosts many solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

Valentina Bonomo Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Wunderkammern This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www. wunderkammern.net.

Z20 GALLERIA SARA ZANIN Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel.

0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

where to go in rome

Giorgio Griffa exhibition at Galleria Lorcan O’Neill.

Sei colori by Griffa

and Paris. Associated with the Arte Povera movement, Penone is known for his works that engage with poetry, nature and time, using materials ranging from terracotta to iron. The exhibition coincides with the installation of a giant Penone sculpture at the Fendi headquarters in Rome’s EUR district. Gagosian Gallery, Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.

0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

RAFAEL Y. HERMAN: THE NIGHT ILLUMINATES THE NIGHT 25 Jan-26 March Exhibition by Israeli artist Rafael Y. Herman who is known for his groundbreaking photography of moonlit night scenes which appear to have been taken in daylight, without the use of electronic or digital manipulation.

MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, www.museomacro.org.

EXHIBITIONS GIORGIO GRIFFA 21 Feb-29 April The Lorcan O’Neill Gallery presents new and historic works by Italian abstract painter Giorgio Griffa, who is considered one of the most radical avant-garde artists working in Italy today. Born in Turin in 1936, Griffa participated in the Venice Biennale in 1978 and 1980, and has held exhibitions at prestigious galleries throughout Europe. Galleria Lorcan O’Neill, Vicolo dei Catinari, tel.

0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

YOSUKE UENO: MICRO COSMOS: IL POTERE DEL SENTIMENTO 18 Feb-18 March Leading Japanese Pop Surrealist Yosuke Ueno presents his fairytale universe of psychedelic landscapes, plants and animals. The Dorothy Circus Gallery specialises in international Pop Surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

WALLED GARDENS IN AN INSANE EDEN 10 Feb-25 March Marcelle Joseph curates an exhibition which takes its cue from the prevailing mood across Europe after an overthrow of political certainties in 2016. The show features the artwork of seven London-based artists brought to Rome, many for the first time. The participating artists are Rebecca Ackroyd, Gabriella Boyd, Rhys Coren, Kira Freije, Marie Jacotey, Florence Peake and Zadie Xa. Z20 Sara Zanin Gallery, Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

20

Wanted in Rome | February 2017

DNA: IL GRANDE LIBRO DELLA VITA DA MENDEL ALLA GENOMICA 10 Feb-18 June Exhibition dedicated to Gregor Mendel, the scientist, Augustinian friar and misunderstood genius whose pioneering genetic discoveries were not recognised until the turn of the 20th century, more than three decades after his death. Palazzo delle Esposizioni 194, Via Nazionale, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.

GIUSEPPE PENONE: EQUIVALENZE 27 Jan-15 April The Gagosian holds an exhibition of work by Giuseppe Penone, a renowned Italian sculptor who works in both Turin

GALLERIA VARSI: LIVELLI 21 Jan-12 Feb Galleria Varsi presents the second edition of a group exhibition showing silkscreen prints created by the gallery’s stable of street artists over the past year. The gallery says the project, held in collaboration with Rome’s 56Fili Lab, is designed for contemporary artists to push the boundaries of an important, long-established printing technique.

Galleria Varsi, Via di S. Salvatore in Campo 51, tel. 0668309410, www.galleriavarsi.it.

FRANCESCO DEL DRAGO: PARLARE CON IL COLORE 19 Jan-26 March Well-known contemporary Roman artist Pietro Ruffo curates this retrospective dedicated to the work of fellow Ro-

Micro Cosmos exhibition by Yosuke Ueno at Dorothy Circus Gallery. Micro Cosmos, detail.

man artist Francesco del Drago (19202011). Described as “long overdue” by its organisers, the exhibition pays particular attention to the intricate colour studies created by the abstract artist whose work influenced younger generations in the sphere of graphic design, advertising and film. Museo Carlo Bilotti - Aranciera, Viale Fiorello La Guardia 4, tel. 060608, www.museocarlobilotti.it.

ARCHITETTURA INVISIBILE 19 Jan-26 March A fresh appraisal of the work and legacy of Italian and Japanese avant-garde architects active in the 1960s and 1970s. Museo Carlo Bilotti - Aranciera, Viale Fiorello La Guardia 4, tel. 060608, www.museocarlobilotti.it.

STILL SHOWING GIOVANNI PRINI: IL POTERE DEL SENTIMENTO 21 Dec-26 March Rome’s municipal modern art gallery presents an exhibition showing the art of Giovanni Prini (1877-1958) featuring marble and bronze sculptures, paintings, drawings, ceramics, furniture and toys. Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Roma Capitale, Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel.

060608, www.galleriaartemodernaroma.it.

ANISH KAPOOR 17 Dec-17 April British-Indian sculptor Anish Kapoor returns to exhibit in Rome after more than a decade. Considered one of the most significant artists on the contemporary international art scene, Kapoor won the Turner Prize in 1991, and in 2013 he received a knighthood for services to visual arts. The exhibition is curated by Mario Codognato and has the patronage of the British embassy in Rome. MACRO, Via Nizza 138, tel.

06671070400, www.museomacro.org.

Giuseppe Penone, seen here in his Turin studio, holds his latest exhibition Equivalenze at the Gagosian Gallery in Rome.

cycle Conversation Piece which charts the presence of Italian and foreign artists currently living in Rome, or with an attachment to the city, focusing in particular on the artistic contribution made by Rome’s foreign academies and cultural institutes. Artists have been invited to gain inspiration from the nature of objects and their specific use in their artistic practice, reflecting on a statement by American artist Jasper Johns: “Take an object / Do something to it / Do something else to it.”

The exhibition features work by British artist Jonathan Baldock, Neapolitan artist Piero Golia, Magali Reus (Dutch Fellow at the American Academy in Rome), and Berlin-based Claudia Wieser (Fellow at the Accademia Tedesca di Roma Casa Baldi). La Fondazione Memmo Arte Contemporanea, Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

I PITTORI DEL ‘900 E LA CARTE DA GIOCO 15 Dec-30 April Palazzo Braschi shows works from the original collection of 20th-century Italian writer, intellectual and art collector Paola Masino. The works, which are now part of the Museo di Roma collection, are shown together in public for the first time. On display are paintings by important Italian artists such as Accardi, Burri, Carrà, Guttuso, Levi and Prampolini. Palazzo Braschi, Piazza di S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it.

SIANE YOO: SHADOW RIFT 13 Dec-11 Feb The Gallery Apart presents a new series of works by young Korean artist Sinae Yoo whose style incorporates elements of pop culture and historical motifs. Curated by Domenico

IL MUSEO UNIVERSALE: DAL SOGNO DI NAPOLEONE A CANOVA 16 Dec-12 March Exhibition highlighting the 200th anniversary of the 1816 repatriation of Italian cultural heritage looted by Napoleon in 1796. The exhibition displays a range of Italian masterpieces of art and archaeology that were plundered from Italy, including works by Carracci, Guercino, Reni and Vecellio. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 16, tel.

639967500, www.scuderiequirinale.it.

CONVERSATION PIECE: PART 3 16 Dec-2 April The third installment in the exhibition

Rafael Y. Herman exhibition at MACRO. Somnum Rubrum.

February 2017 | Wanted in Rome

21

celebrating the long history of relations between China and the west, and Italy in particular. Featuring silks, ceramics, precious metals, gems and antique maps, the exhibition is dedicated to the overlapping cultures and religions of countries in the Middle and Far East located along the ancient caravan routes known as the Silk Roads. The show is divided into several sections that display 80 ancient masterpieces from some of the most important museums in Europe alongside 20 works by contemporary Chinese artists. Galleria di Alessandro VII, Palazzo del Quirinale, Piazza del Quirinale.

Giovanni Prini: Il Potere del Sentimento exhibition at the Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Roma Capitale. Ritratto della fidanzata Orazia Belsito, 1899, by Prini.

Francesco del Drago exhibition at Museo Carlo Bilotti. Luglio Agosto by del Drago.

de Chirico, the exhibition features a video accompanied by its soundtrack, alongside installations, drawings and ceramics. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel.

0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

MANZÙ: DIALOGHI SULLA SPIRITUALITÀ CON LUCIO FONTANA 8 Dec-5 March This exhibition contrasts the work of two significant Italian artists, Giacomo Manzù (1908-1991) and Lucio Fontana (1899-1968) who are best remembered for their sacred art, as well as competing for important church commissions in the mid-20th century. The show takes place at the museum at Castel S. Angelo in collaboration with the Museo Giacomo Manzù di Ardea. Museo Nazionale di Castel S. Angelo, Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111.

Livelli exhibition at Galleria Varsi. Tellas prepares a silkscreen print. See page 20.

22

Wanted in Rome | February 2017

DALL’ANTICA ALLA NUOVA VIA DELLA SETA 6 Dec-26 Feb Palazzo Quirinale hosts an exhibition

REMBRANDT AT THE VATICAN: IMAGES FROM HEAVEN AND EARTH 24 Nov-26 Feb The Vatican Museums host an exhibition of works by Dutch master Rembrandt (1606-1669) for the first time.

On display are 55 engravings and two paintings from the Zorn Museum in Mora, Sweden, and the Kremer Collection in the Netherlands. The exhibition, which was opened by Queen Silvia of Sweden, is held in collaboration with the Swedish and Netherlands’ embassies to the Holy See. Vatican Museums, Viale del Vaticano, tel.

0669883860, mv.vatican.va.

TRASTEVERE INTRECCI D’ARTE E DI VITA 18 Nov-26 Feb Exhibition showcasing the cultural and social life of Rome’s Trastevere district, including the memories of local residents and traders and their houses, restaurants and workshops, collected in a video documentary.

In addition the exhibition examines how cultural activities have reanimated the Trastevere neighbourhood in recent years, from the Ragazzi del Cinema America Occupato to the Piazza Tevere project by Kristin Jones, including William Kentridge’s Triumphs and Laments frieze. The show also includes Silvia Stucky’s Opera senza io work, inspired by Trastevere’s Botanic Gardens. Museo di Roma in Trastevere, Piazza S. Egidio 1B, tel.

065816563, www.museodiromaintrastevere.it.

ARTEMISIA GENTILESCHI 30 Nov-8 May Major exhibition dedicated to the Italian Baroque painter Artemisia Gentileschi (1593 – c.1656), today considered one of the most accomplished painters in the generation following that of Caravaggio. The exhibition spans from 1610 to 1652, examining Gentileschi’s career in Florence, Rome, Venice and finally Naples

where she worked until her death.

See article page 2. Museo di Roma a Palazzo Braschi, Piazza di S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it.

CARAVAGGIO E IL MAESTRO DI HARTFORD 16 Nov-19 Feb Exhibition examining the origins of Italian still life in a Roman context at the turn of the 17th century. The exhibition features still life works by the so-called Maestro di Hartford, a mysterious artist whose paintings – according to some theories – are rumoured to be the work of a young Caravaggio. The artist’s fictitious name stems from his best-known painting (Still life of Flowers and Fruit) at the Wadsworth Atheneum in Hartford, Connecticut. The exhibition features works by Caravaggio and the Maestro di Hartford alongside their peers. Galleria Borghese, Piazzale del Museo Borghese, tel. 0632810, www. galleriaborghese.it/barberini/it/.

VIVIAN MAIER: WHERE THE STREETS HAVE NO NAME 4 Nov-5 March The ILEX Gallery at 10b Photography displays more than 30 silver gelatine prints by the American street photographer Vivian Maier (1926-2009).

The title of the exhibition is a reference to the U2 song Where the Streets Have No Name, which rails against a divisive society where a person’s life and achievements are determined by their street address. ILEX Gallery @ 10b Photography Gallery, Via S. Lorenzo da Brindisi 10b, tel. 0670306913, www.10bphotography.com.

Selection of works from Anish Kapoor exhibition at MACRO.

ARTE E POLITICA: OPERE DALLA COLLEZIONE #4 21 Oct-10 May MACRO shows a series of works with political and social themes. The display spans from the 1930s, with the celebrated demolition paintings by Roman artist Mario Mafai, to more recent works examining contemporary socio-political events. Part of a cycle of exhibitions from the permanent collection of MACRO. Via Nizza 138, www. museomacro.org.

TIME IS OUT OF JOINT 11 Oct-5 April Taking its title from Shakespeare’s Hamlet, the exhibition at the reorganised Galleria Nazionale explores the fluidity of the concept of time, displaying works of art from various centuries side by side, without regard to chronological order. It includes works by art-

Il Museo universale. Dal sogno di Napoleone a Canova exhibition at Palazzo Quirinale. La fortuna con una corona by Guido Reni.

EXHIBITIONS AT MAXXI LETIZIA BATTAGLIA: JUST FOR PASSION 24 Nov-17 April More than 200 photographs, contact sheets and vintage prints from the archive of Letizia Battaglia, known to many as the “Photographer of the Mafia.” The exhibition, which testifies to “40 years of Italian life and society” according to MAXXI, also includes magazines, publications, interviews and film footage relating to the celebrated Italian photographer. ÁLVARO SIZA: SACRO 9 Nov-26 March Portuguese architect Álvaro Siza is honoured with an exhibition of drawings, plans, projects and models which highlight his contribution to sacred architecture.

THE JAPANESE HOUSE: ARCHITECTURE & LIFE AFTER 1945 9 Nov-26 Feb Exhibition highlighting the importance of house design in Japan, showing the work of celebrated architects such as Kenzo Tange, Toyo Ito, Kazuyo Sejima and Shigeru Ban alongside their lesser-known contemporaries and a younger generation of Japanese architects. The exhibition presents the essential elements of the Japanese house, showcasing the convergence of tradition and innovation, and the architectural harmony between mankind and the environment.

The exhibition is co-organised by the Japan Foundation, the Barbican Centre in London, and Tokyo’s Museum of Modern Art Tokyo.

MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0632810, www.fondazionemaxxi.it.

February 2017 | Wanted in Rome

23

EDWARD HOPPER 1 Oct-12 Feb The Vittoriano presents an exhibition dedicated to the celebrated American artist Edward Hopper (1882-1967) whose paintings provided anecdotal insights into the day-to-day banality of American culture. The show features 60 paintings, spanning Hopper’s entire career, from his early Parisian watercolours to later urban scenes of New York.

Complesso del Vittoriano - Ala Brasini di Roma, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere, tel.

066780664, www.ilvittoriano.com.

Caravaggio e il Maestro di Hartford at Galleria Borghese. Canestra di frutta by Caravaggio.

ists such as Giacomo Balla, Gustav Klimt, Lucio Fontana, Alberto Giacometti, Cristina Lucas, Adrian Paci, and Sophie Ristelhueber. Galleria Nazionale, Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 0632298221, www.lagallerianazionale.com.

L’ARA COM’ERA Until 31 Oct The rich history and legends of Imperial Rome will be displayed in an exhibition at the capital’s Ara Pacis, using 3D technology to revive the

original colours of the museum’s altar to peace. Titled L’Ara Com’Era (The Ara as it was), the installation involves “augmented reality” scenes illuminating the first-century AD altar which was commissioned by Emperor Augustus to celebrate the peace he established throughout the Roman empire. The multimedia exhibition runs every Friday and Saturday night until 25 March, from 19.30 until midnight, with last entry at 23.00. Museo dell’Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel. 06820771, www.arapacis.it.

LOVE. L’ARTE CONTEMPORANEA INCONTRA L’AMORE 29 Sept-19 Feb Rome’s Chiostro di Bramante celebrates its 20th anniversary with an exhibition dedicated to contemporary art and the multiple interpretations of the universally popular theme of love. The colourful show includes works by artists of the calibre of Yayoi Kusama, Tom Wesselmann, Andy Warhol, Robert Indiana, Gilbert & George, Francesco Vezzoli and Tracey Emin. Chiostro del Bramante, Via della Pace, tel. 06916508451, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

PICASSO IMAGES 14 Oct-19 Feb An exhibition featuring almost 200 photographs accompanied by a significant selection of prints, sculptures and paintings from the Musée national Picasso-Paris, illustrates the professional and private life of Pablo Picasso by examining the artist’s relationship with photography. Museo dell’Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel. 06820771, www.arapacis.it.

Manzù: Dialoghi sulla spiritualità con Lucio Fontana exhibition at Castel. S. Angelo.

David, 1938, by Manzù.

Vivian Maier at ILEX Gallery @ 10b Photography Gallery. New York, NY by Maier.

24

Wanted in Rome | February 2017

MARIO CAMERINI: ILLUSTRATOR OF ROME MAPS Wanted in Rome put a series of questions to map illustrator Mario Camerini. See cover this edition.

Rome’s central districts, or rioni, have recently been immortalised in a series of 22 hand-painted maps by master illustrator Mario Camerini. The birds-eye view maps – the latest in a long series by the artist – show areas such as Rione Parione (Campo de’ Fiori-Piazza Navona), Trastevere, Rione Colonna (either side of central stretch of Via del Corso), Borgo, and S. Saba. Wanted in Rome put some questions to Camerini who has been making maps since the 1990s, sometimes for the Botteghiamo association which promotes traditional artisan activity and historic workshops.

What was the first map you created and where did you come up with the idea?

The first map was the old city of Rhodes [Greece], in 1993. I lived in the old city, which is beautiful, but there were no maps, only those specialist ones for archaeologists, so I made one myself.

Where are you from, and what is your background as an artist-illustrator?

I was born in Brazil (I am Jewish and my family fled to Brazil in 1938 due to the Italian racial laws). My father was a painter, my mother the daughter of a sculptor, so it was in my DNA. What is your artistic process behind each map?

I start from a two-tone technical map, then district by district I paint the houses, based on Google Maps or Bing Maps, but slightly distorting the aspect ratio to gain the necessary space to show the streets and house elevations. I then add ink to the drawing and finally colour it with watercolours.

Where can people buy your maps of Rome?

The Rome maps can be purchased in digital print, on paper or canvas painting through my website. For full details see www.mariocamerini.it.

26

Wanted in Rome | February 2017

CLASSICAL ROME For details of the main musical associations and auditoriums in Rome see: Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it.

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All the concerts take place at the Auditorium Parco della Musica (see address above).

Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it.

Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com.

Roma Sinfonietta, Teatro Italia, Via Bari 18, www.romasinfonietta.com.

Roma Tre Orchestra, Teatro Palladium, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it.

ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA ROMANA IL PIANOFORTE NEL JAZZ 11 Dec-5 March The subtitle of these concerts is Da Scott Joplin a Keith Jarrett. In this fourpart series on the theme of the piano in jazz the two concerts in February are Harlem e I suoi pianisti on 5 Feb and I pianisti attraversano gli Oceani on 15 Feb. The final concert Il jazz di oggi e I suoi pianisti is on 5 March. Sala Casella, Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Via Flaminia 118, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

Imago Sonora Ensemble performs in the Assoli I and II concerts for the Filarmonica Romana.

SCHUBERTIADE 2 Feb This is the second in the series of concerts at the Teatro Argentina. The Bennewitz string quartet, Pietro De Maria piano and Alberto Bocini double bass perform music by Schubert to re-live the times of the Schubertiade, or the informal musical encounters when some of the composer’s masterpieces were created and performed by his young friends. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

SCHUMANN AND ANGELIKA KIRCHSCHLAGER 9 Feb An evening of Schumann’s Lieder with the Austrian mezzosoprano Angelica Kirchschlager with Julius Drake on the piano makes the third of the Filarmonica-Teatro Argentina series.

Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

Tchaikovsky plus a new work by Italian composer Mauro Cardi. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www. filarmonicaromana.org.

PURCELL IN LOVE 23 Feb The German Lautten Compagney performs for the first time in Rome in this programme dedicated to the music of Purcell. The Lautten Compagney, which is based in Berlin, specialises in Baroque music and Handel’s operas. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

MISCHA MAISKY 2 March The Latvian-born Israeli cellist, Mischa Maisky, returns to Rome to play Bach cello suites, 2, 3 and 6. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

ASSOLI I and II 10 Feb-21 April A series of concerts by the soloists of the Imago Sonora Ensemble performing contemporary music, much of it for the first time. The first concert is on 10 Feb with Michele Marco Rossi, cello, followed by Samuele Telari, accordion on 20 Feb. The Assoli concerts are inspired by the Schubertiade gatherings in 19th-century Vienna (see above). Imago Sonora is a group of 12 young musicians formed in 2013. Sala Affreschi della Filarmonica Romana, Via Flaminia 118, www. filarmonicaromana.org.

I SOLOISTI AQUILANI 16 Feb Music by Sibelius, Shostakovich and

A visual from Mahler Remix at the Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti (IUC).

February 2017 | Wanted in Rome

27

S. CECILIA: DANIELE GATTI All’Auditorium del Parco della Musica di Roma per la Stagione Sinfonica dell’Accademia Nazionale di S. Cecilia sarà eseguito Il Paradiso e la Peri, Oratorio profano per soli, coro e orchestra di Robert Schumann (9, 10 e 11 febbraio).

Sul podio Daniele Gatti alla guida dei complessi dell’Accademia e del soprano Angel Blue come protagonista. Il direttore milanese, noto e affermato in tutto il mondo e attualmente chiamato alla direzione musicale dell’Orchestra Reale del Concertgebouw di Amsterdam, torna a Roma dopo la strepitosa ed emozionante conduzione del Tristan und Isolde di Richard Wagner, che ha inaugurato l’attuale stagione del Teatro dell’Opera. Ora sarà alle prese con un oratorio che Schumann considerava «il mio lavoro più grande e, spero, il migliore» e che colpisce già dal primo ascolto per la semplicità e l’immediatezza della melodia profusa a piene mani. Il Paradiso e la Peri ebbe la prima assoluta il 4 dicembre 1843 alla Gewandhaus di Lipsia, fu diretto da Schumann stesso e ottenne un gran successo di pubblico ed entusiastici consensi di critica. Racconta della fata Peri che per punizione deve vagare per il mondo alla ricerca del “dono più caro al cielo”, così da purificarsi e ritornare in Paradiso; troverà il prezioso “dono” nelle lacrime d’un uomo colpevole di ogni nefandezza, versate per aver visto un bambino intento alla preghiera della sera.

Paolo Di Nicola ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA VALERY GERGIEV SEONG-JIN CHO 2-4 Feb Valery Gergiev conducts the Orchestra and Chorus of S. Cecilia, performing Stravinsky’s Rite of Spring, and South Korean pianist Seong-Jin Chio, who won the 2015 Chopin competition, playing Rachmaninoff’s 3rd piano concerto. S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it.

DANIELE GATTI 9-11 Feb Daniele Gatti conducts Schumann’s Das Paradies und die Peri with the S. Cecilia Orchestra and Chorus. Classified as a secular oratorio, it is based on an episode in the oriental romance Lalla

Rookh by the Irish poet and song writer Thomas Moore, published in 1817. It is a favourite of British conductor Simon Rattle who will become the music director of the London Symphony Orchestra at the end of 2017. Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

THE BLACK GONDOLA 16-18 Feb The Black Gondola by Liszt is performed to the orchestration of American contemporary composer John Adams. The piano piece was composed by Liszt in Venice when he was staying with Wagner only a couple of months before Wagner died. Adams is known for his two operas Nixon in China and more recently the controversial The Death of Klinghoffer, about the disabled Jewish American who was killed by terrorists 1985 while

Emmanuel Pahud and Eric Le Sage return to the IUC.

28

Wanted in Rome | February 2017

he was on a cruise liner in the Mediterranean and then pushed over board. The programme conducted by Alan Gilbert with the S. Cecilia Orchestra and Chorus also includes music by Martinu with the soloist Sol Gabetta and Wagner’s L’Anello del Nibelung. S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it.

MOZART’S JUPITER SYMPHONY 23-25 Feb The S. Cecilia Orchestra, conducted

by Pablo Heras-Casado, plays Mozart’s Jupiter symphony which is the longest and the last symphony he wrote.

It is the last of three works that Mozart wrote in quick succession in 1788, probably meant as a unified work. The programme also includes Mendelssohn’s Lobgesang, which was composed in 1840, with the S. Cecilia Chorus, Christina Landshamer and Sabina von Walther sopranos and Daniel Behle tenor. S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. santacecilia.it.

ISTITUZIONE UNIVERSITARIA DEI CONCERTI MARATONA BARTOK 4 Feb The Kelemen Quartet, founded in Budapest in 2010, plays all Bartók’s six string quartets. The quartets influenced many subsequent composers, including Benjamin Britten and Elliott Carter. Aula Magna La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

DÉFENSE DE LA BASSE DE VIOLE...

4 Feb A conversation in musical format inspired by the 1740 work by Hubert Le Blanc who bewailed the demise of the viol in favour of the violin and the cello. Music of the period by Marais, Forqueray and Vivaldi alternates with readings from the Le Blanc’s treatise, Défense de la basse de viole contre les enterprises du violon et les prétentions du violoncelle. Enrico Bronzi plays the cello, Vittorio Ghielmi the viola da gamba, Lorenzo Ghielmi the harpsichord and Luca Pianca the lute, with Luciano Bertoli as the narrator. Aula Magna La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

PEPE ROMERO E LOS ROMEROS 7 Feb Flamenco, fandango and Spanish fantasies with music by Albénis, Villa Lobos Rodrigo, Boccherini and others. An evening of guitar with the multi-generational Romero family quartet. Aula Magna La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

trombonist Robin Eubanks performs at the Alexanderplatz, Rome’s premier jazz club. Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604, www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it.

BEN WATT & BERNARD BUTLER 24 Feb Unplugged in Monti presents a joint acoustic performance by English solo musicians Ben Watt and Bernard Butler at the Chiesa Evangelica Metodista, as part of its Church Sessions series of concerts. Watt is a cofounder, along with Tracey Thorn, of Everything But The Girl, while Butler is a former guitarist with Suede.

Chiesa Evangelica Metodista, Via XX Settembre 123, www.unpluggedinmonti.com.

Trombonist Robin Eubanks performs at Rome’s Alexanderplatz Jazz Club on 18 February.

EMMANUEL PAHUD ERIC LA SAGE 11 Feb Flautist Emmanuel Pahud returns to the IUC for another brilliant concert with pianist Eric La Sage. They play music by Mozart (sonata in C major), Schubert, Schumman and Mendelssohn. Aula Magna La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

SERATA GERSHWIN 18 Feb Music by Gershwin and Pieranunzi with Enrico Pieranunzi piano, Gabriele Pieranunzi violin and Gabriele Mirabassi clarinet. The trio of soloists improvise on the theme of Gershwin in a mixture of concert and lesson. This programme was first performed last year at the Teatro S. Carlo di Napoli where Gabriele Pieranunzi is the lead violinist. Aula Magna La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

MAHLER REMIXED 28 Feb A reinterpretation of Mahler by Christian Fennesz, Austrian guitarist and composer of electronic music with live visuals by the German digital abstractionist Lillevan. This is the Rome premier of Mahler Remixed which was first recorded in Vienna in 2011 and performed at Carnegie Hall in 2014. Even on YouTube the visuals are dazzling.

Aula Magna La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

ORCHESTRA ROMA TRE 7-8 Feb Two evenings on the theme Diamo il la, based on music in A major and A minor with the Roma Tre university orchestra.

Beethoven’s 7th symphony (in A major), and Schumann’s only concerto for piano and orchestra (in A minor) which was first performed by Clara Schumann on 1 January 1846. Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it.

ROMA SINFONIETTA UNIVERSITA’ TOR VERGATA There is also a series of concerts at the Auditorium Ennio Morricone of Università Tor Vergata on 8, 15 and 22 Feb. For details see www.romasinfonietta.com.

POP, ROCK, JAZZ

MACY GRAY 11 March This American R&B, jazz musician and soul singer is best known for her distinctive raspy voice, and her major international hit single I Try from her multi-platinum debut album On How Life Is. Auditorium Conciliazione, Via Della Conciliazione 4, tel. 06684391, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it.

IDAN RAICHEL 15 March Concert by the Israeli singer-songwriter and musician behind the Idan Raichel Project, a group known for its distinctive fusion of electronics, traditional Hebrew texts, Arab and Ethiopian music. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin, tel. 892982, www.auditorium.com.

MARLENE KUNTZ 9 Feb This Italian act was formed in Cuneo in 1990, initially inspired by the sound of New York alternative rock band Sonic Youth. The group is known for tracks such as La canzone che scrivo per te and Impressioni di settembre. Quirinetta Caffè Concerto, Via Marco Minghetti 5, www. quirinetta.com.

ART GARFUNKEL 18 Feb Art Garfunkel, best known for his former partnership with Paul Simon as folk-rock duo Simon & Garfunkel, performs in Rome as part of a four-stop Italian tour. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin, tel.

892982, www.auditorium.com.

ROBIN EUBANKS 18 Feb American jazz and jazz fusion slide

Art Garfunkel performs at the Auditorium Parco della Musica on 18 February.

February 2017 | Wanted in Rome

29

Simple Minds return to Rome with a concert at the Auditorium Conciliazione on 23 April.

SIMPLE MINDS 23 April This veteran Scottish rock band produced a number of critically-acclaimed albums in the early 1980s, achieving international recognition and selling over 60 million albums since 1979.

Fronted by Jim Kerr, the band is bestknown for hit singles Don’t You (Forget About Me), Alive and Kicking and Belfast Child. Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, tel. 06684391, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it.

Dance MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA STRAVINSKY EVENING THE RITE OF SPRING 11 Feb- 1 March Choreography by Glen Tetley, reworked

by Bronwen Curry, with the students of La Scala’s ballet school. Curry has restaged most of Tetley’s works for the Royal Ballet in London. Conducted by Zubin Mehta. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodramamatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

by Jiri Pokorny. On 11 Feb there is We Pop with and by Davide Valrosso and The Speech by and with Irene Russolillo.

On 21 Feb there is the Compagnia Abbondanza/Bertoni with I Dream with choreography by Michele Abbondanza and Antonella Bertoni. The Fonderia 39, which opened in 2004, is an example of the successful restoration and re-use of an old industrial complex in the heart of the city. Via della Costituzione 39, Reggio Emilia, www.aterballetto.it.

ROME TEATRO BRANCACCIO SERATA BIGNOZETTI INTERNATIONAL GALA 18-19 Feb Dancers from some of of the top international and Italian companies – Alvin Ailey American Dance Theatre,

Stuttgart Ballet, Staatsballet Berlin, Aterballetto – perform in this evening of works by Mauro Bignozetti. Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana, www.teatrobrancaccio.it.

TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA SLEEPING BEAUTY

BY TCHAIKOVSKY 8-15 Feb This a Teatro dell’Opera production with choreography by French choreographer Jean-Guillaume Bart from the Paris Opera Ballet, and guest dancer Iana Salenko, principal dancer of the Berlin State Ballet and guest artist with the Royal Ballet. Bart has progressed from dancing the Prince in Nureyev’s version of the Tchaikovsky masterpiece, to teaching and now to choreography.

He and Eleonora Abbagnato, who heads the ballet company of the Teatro

REGGIO EMILIA FONDERIA 39 If you are a fan of contemporary dance and happen to be in Reggio Emilia it would be worth checking the programme at Aterballetto’s dance centre Fonderia 39 for new choregraphies.

On 7 Feb Aterballetto performs Però, a work by Hektor Budlla, Kersiam by Roberto Tedesco and Words and Space

30

Wanted in Rome | February 2017

The Parson Dance Company has started another Italian tour.

dell’Opera di Roma share a common background at the Paris Opera, where she also danced in Sleeping Beauty.

Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it.

PARSONS DANCE COMPANY TOUR The popular American Parsons Dance Company will be on tour in Italy from February to the beginning of April.

It will perform in Milan on at the 2-5 March at the Arcimboldi and in Rome on 29 March-2 April at Teatro Brancaccio.

festivals EQUILIBRIO FESTIVAL: GERMANIA 3-24 Feb This year Rome’s annual contemporary dance festival is dedicated to Germany’s contribution to modern dance in the 20th century, as part of a new direction that will see the festival feature a guest country each year. The 2017 programme includes The Primate Trilogy by the Dresden Frankfurt Dance Company / James Godani (3 Feb), Wuppertal Heritage, a tribute to Pina Bausch’s dance creations (6 Feb), El Circulo Eterno. Homage to Harald Kreutzberg by DanceLab Berlin / Norbert Servos Jorge Morro (10 Feb), Mistral - Vor Ort by Susanne Linke, Koffi Kôkô - Reinhild Hoffmann (20 Feb), ending on 24 Feb with RuhrOrt by Susanne Linke / Renegade. For full programme see website. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Pietro De Coubertin 30, tel. 06802411, www. auditorium.com.

opera MILAN DON CARLO

BY VERDI 17 Jan-12 Feb This is the first time in the last 40 years that Verdi’s opera will be performed in its original five-act version, since it was first seen in Paris in 1867. The late Claudio Abbado was the last to include the Fontainebleu Act in the opera at a La Scala performance back in 1977. Here Myung-Whun Chung, one of the world’s most experienced Verdi conductors, returns to the original, directed by Peter Stein in a production for the Salzburg Festival, which was conducted there by Antonio Pappano with the tenor Jonas Kaufmann. In Milan the top-notch cast includes Ferruccio Furlanetto, Krassimira Stoyanova, Ekaterina Semenchuk and Francesco Meli, one of the best Verdi tenors of the moment. The Financial Times critic was not impressed by the 2013 Salzburg production, maintaining that Stein “had outdone himself in cringe-inducing dullness.” Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org FALSTAFF

BY VERDI 2-21 Feb Conducted by Zubin Mehta and directed by Damiano Michieletto with Ambrogio Maestri in the main role. The Italian director Michieletto was inspired by the idea that Verdi was building his home for retired musicians in Milan, La Casa di Ris-

Equilibrio Festival at Auditorium Parco della Musica. El Circulo Eterno. Homage to Harald Kreutzberg by DanceLab Berlin / Norbert Servos Jorge Morro.

32

Wanted in Rome | February 2017

poso per Musicisti, at the same time as he was composing this last opera. Michieletto therefore reproduces the Casa Verdi, as it was then called, faithfully on stage. This production was first staged in Salzburg of 2013, also conducted by Mehta, and with Maestri in the part of Falstaff. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org LA TRAVIATA

BY VERDI 28 Feb-14 March Anna Netrebko sings (9,11,14 March), along with other opera stars Leo Nucci and Francesco Meli in this Liliana Cavani 1990 production of Verdi’s everpopular work, conducted by Nello Santi.

Ailyn Perez alternates with Netrebko in the role of Violetta on (28 Feb and 3, 5 March) and she will return to La Scala in July in the role of Mimì in Puccini’s La Boheme. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

Opera Notes Al Teatro dell’Opera di Roma va in scena Il trovatore di Giuseppe Verdi (28 febbraio – 10 marzo). Sarà diretto da Jader Bignamini, che nel teatro della capitale sarà per la terza volta alle prese con la musica verdiana, nervosa e romantica insieme, dopo Aida e La traviata delle passate stagioni. La regia spetterà a Àlex Ollé (de La Fura dels Baus) in uno spettacolo già andato in scena ad Amsterdam nel 2015. La storia dei due fratelli rivali per amore d’una stessa donna è ambientata durante la prima guerra mondiale su due fronti nemici: quello tedesco e quello inglese, ed è esaltata e drammatizzata dalle luci impiegate, che il critico Edoardo Saccenti (di OperaClick) ha definito «strepitosamente plastiche ed evocative». Il cast è dato da nomi ormai noti e apprezzati dagli appassionati: Fabio Sartori (il protagonista), Simone Piazzola (il fratello rivale) e Tatiana Serjan ed Ekaterina Semenchuk (la donna e la madre “adottiva” dell’eroe).

Questo Trovatore offre un’occasione da non perdere a chi vuole tornare ad ascoltare a Roma, dopo più di dieci anni di assenza, melodie memorabili: notturne (D’amor sull’ali rosee), sensuali (Il balen del suo sorriso), drammatiche (Stride la vampa!) e travolgenti (Di quella pira…).

Paolo Di Nicola

Knight, José Salgado, Ryan Costello, and visiting French comedian Alicia Spatschek. Doors open as usual at 20.30, show begins at 21.30, and guests should reserve in advance, tel.

347 / 6753522 or email teatrodouze@ gmail.com. Teatro Douze, Via del Cipresso 12, Trastevere.

academies Il Trovatore at the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma is set against the background of world war one.

ROME IL TROVATORE

BY VERDI 28 Feb-10 March This is a new production for Rome’s opera house in conjunction with the Amsterdam National Opera and the Opera National Paris. Conducted by Jade Bignamini and directed by Alex Ollé of Barcelona’s collective La Fura dels Baus.

It has already been staged in its contemporary setting both in Amsterdam and Paris, transposed from conflict in mediaeval Spain to the trenches of world war one, with monumental and austere sets by Alfons Flores. Teatro dell’ Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, www.operaroma.it.

theatre THE WINTER’S TALE 1-5 Feb The Rome Savoyards and Plays in Rome stage an English-language production of The Winter’s Tale by William Shakespeare, originally published in 1623.

Due to its mix of intense psychological drama, comedy and happy ending, the work is considered one of the Bard’s “problem plays” due to its ambiguous tone. Directed by Sandra Provost. 1-3 Feb 20.30. 4-5 Feb 17.30. For tickets tel.

347 / 8248661 or email playsinrome@ yahoo.com. Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, www.romesavoyards.it.

LADY DIANA & D 8-19 Feb Teatro Sistina presents a play that contrasts the private and public personas of Princess Diana, one fragile, the other invincible. Written and directed by Vincenzo Incenzo, starring Serena Autieri.

In Italian. Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it.

TEATRO VITTORIA 16-26 Feb Simone Cristicchi stages his new play, Il secondo figlio di Dio, inspired by the incredible story of David Lazzaretti, a 19th-century Italian preacher known as the Prophet of Amiata. Directed

by Antonio Calenda. In Italian. Teatro Vittoria, Piazza S. Maria Liberatrice 10, Testaccio, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it.

TEATRO INDIA 20-26 Feb Teatro India presents La Divina Sarah, a production based on the life of the Belle Epoque French stage and early film actress Sarah Bernhardt who was billed as “the most famous actress the world has ever known.” Adapted from the John Murrell novel, starring Anna Bonaiuto and Gianluigi Fogacci, directed by Marco Carniti. In Italian.

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, www.teatrodiroma.net.

ROME’S COMEDY CLUB 24 Feb The line-up of this monthly evening of hilarity (in English) features clubfounder Marsha De Salvatore with Liz

ACADEMIA BELGICA 8 Dec-26 Feb The Belgian Academy presents Alla Luce di Roma: I disegni scenografici di scultori fiamminghi e il barocco romano, at Rome’s Istituto Centrale per la Grafica. The exhibition comprises 17th- and 18th-century drawings and prints from important public and private collections in Belgium. The show includes more than 100 works by artists including Giovanni Lorenzo Bernini, Alessandro Algardi, Pieter Verbruggen, Philipp Schor, Pieter De Jode, Peter Paul Rubens, Andrea Pozzo, and Domenico Fontana. Istituto Centrale per la Grafica, Via della Stamperia 6, tel. 06699801, www.grafica.beniculturali.it.

AMERICAN ACADEMY 4-5 Feb The acclaimed Scharoun Ensemble of the Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra offers two concerts at the American Academy’s Villa Aurelia building. This is the ensemble’s ninth annual visit and concert series at the academy.

The repertoire will be both classical and contemporary, featuring work by current Rome Prize Fellows Jonathan Berger and Christopher Trapani and Italian composer Giuliano Bracci. The first concert takes place at 20.30, the second at 16.00, with seats available on a first-come, first-served basis.

Simone Cristicchi presents Il secondo figlio di Dio at Teatro Vittoria.

February 2017 | Wanted in Rome

33

CHILDREN

The Scharoun Ensemble Berlin at the American Academy in Rome.

14 Feb-2 April The 2017 edition of Cinque Mostre at the American Academy in Rome features five separate exhibitions and collaborative projects by current Rome Prize Fellows from several disciplines as well as invited artists. At the time of going to press no more details were available, for full information see website. American Academy in Rome, Via Angelo Masina 5, tel. 0658461, www. aarome.org.

BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME The British School at Rome presents several interesting lectures in February.

8 Feb. Charles Smeaton, John Henry Parker and the earliest photography in the Roman catacombs, a talk by John Osborne of Carleton University.

15 Feb. The tithe of Hercules: Roman merchants, finance and the community

by Nicholas Purcell of the University of Oxford.

22 Feb. Thinking geographically about Fascist Italy, by David Atkinson from the University of Hull.

All events 18.00-19.30. British School at Rome, Via Antonio Gramsci 61, tel.

063264939, www.bsr.ac.uk.

CASA DI GOETHE 30 Nov-12 March The Casa di Goethe presents Costellazioni 1, the first in a series of three annual exhibitions highlighting stories and treasures rediscovered recently

by Germans in Rome. The exhibition focuses on how German scholars have stumbled upon lost antiques and mastepieces hidden among the bric-a-brac in the city’s market stalls. On display are rare etchings by Manet and Renoir, original prints by Albrecht Dürer and Francis Bacon, and unpublished letters relating to the lives of noted German intellectuals and artists – all found in 2016. Casa di Goethe, Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it.

34

Wanted in Rome | February 2017

HUNGARIAN ACADEMY OF ROME 20 Jan-26 Feb The Hungarian Academy organises an exhibition, in three separate locations, dedicated to the career of Italian artist Valerio Adami, whose work is better known abroad than in Italy. Adami’s more recent paintings and drawings are on display at Galleria André on Via Giulia and Galleria Mucciaccia in Largo della Fontanella di Borghese, while his older works can be seen at the Hungarian Academy, Palazzo Falconieri, Via Giulia 1, tel. 066889671, www. roma.balassiintezet.hu/it/.

JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE 20 Jan-19 April Washoku la colorata vita alimentare dei Giapponesi is an exhibition highlighting the colours and flavours of Japanese cuisine, or washoku, through film, nishiiki-e prints, cooking utensils and recreations of Japanese dishes. Istituto Giapponese di Cultura, Via Antonio Gramsci 74, tel. 063224754, www. jfroma.it.

KEATS SHELLEY-HOUSE 28 Nov-3 June Pens to Paper. Autograph Letters from the Keats-Shelley House. With the subheading From Sir Walter Scott to President Theodore Roosevelt, this exhibition at the Keats-Shelley House focuses on the art of letter-writing and the changes in the industrial production of paper and writing materials between the early 19th century and the early 20th century. The exhibition includes a series of autograph letters by figures such as Johann Wolfgang Goethe, Francesco Crispi, Henry James, Eleonora Duse, and Rudyard Kipling. Entrance to the exhibition is included in the standard museum ticket price. Keats-Shelley House, Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.org.

ARTandSEEK 4 Feb-5 March ARTandSEEK organises English-language cultural workshops and visits to museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. 4 Feb. Inside and Outside: drawings and paintings by E. Hopper (Vittoriano). Programme for children aged 6-12 and their families taught entirely in English, 16.30. 5 Feb. Inside and Outside: drawings and paintings by E. Hopper. For children aged 6-12 (English learners) and their families taught in Italian with the introduction of English words and expressions, 11.00. 4 March.

Anish Kapoor and MACRO. For children aged 6-12 (English learners) and their families, in Italian with introduction of English words and expressions, 16.30.

5 March. Anish Kapoor and MACRO. For children aged 6-12 and their families, entirely in English, 11.00. For event details tel. 331 / 5524440, email artandseekforkids@gmail.com or see website, www.artandseekforkids.com.

sport SIX NATIONS RUGBY IN ROME 5, 11 Feb, 11 March The 18th edition of the annual Six Nations rugby union championship – which is contested by England, France, Ireland, Italy, Scotland and Wales – kicks off on 4 February and finishes on 18 March. Italy will face three opposing teams at Rome’s Stadio Olimpico: Wales (5 Feb), Ireland (11 Feb) and France (11 March). Italy will be keen to pass on the dreaded wooden spoon, which it received for coming bottom of the table last year, while England heads into the tournament as defending champions.

For full details including tickets see Six Nations website, www.rbs6nations.com.

Italy face Ireland in the Six Nations rugby tournament at Rome’s Stadio Olimpico on 11 Feb.

SPORT

Gabrielle Bolzoni

SKIING NEAR ROME The mountains in central Italy offer skiers in Rome a closer alternative to the Alps

T

here are many skiing resorts within an easy drive of Rome along the Apennines in Lazio and Abruzzo. But because of recent tragic earthquakes and overabundant snow falls in the Abruzzo in mid January some ski areas were closed or not accessible. At the time of going to press Campo Giove, Campo Felice and Campo Imperatore were all affected.

Terminillo was open but access may be difficult as it is close to Rieti, the hub for rescue work in the earthquake and avalanche zones. Check all websites before setting off, as well as avalanche warnings at all resorts. On the up-side some centres have opened new facilities this winter. Check the websites for snow conditions.

Campocatino This relatively small ski resort is one of the oldest in the Apennines and is located in the province of Frosinone, about 100 km southeast of Rome. It has 12 km of slopes, located in a karst valley at 1,800 m. It has a chairlift and three ski lifts. The Canalino

36

Wanted in Rome | February 2017

and the Vermicano slopes are connected and form a good slope of 1,500 m. www. campocatino.eu.

Campo di Giove Campo di Giove is on the western slope of the Majella natural park in Abruzzo, about 170 km from Rome. A chair lift and a ski lift take skiers up to about 1,800 m.

Two bars / restaurants are located along the way. The numerous slopes are of different levels: the Serra Campanile is easy and suitable for kids, the Le Capre, Pareti Rosse and Delle Signore are of medium difficulty, while the Porrara is one of the most fascinating and challenging black runs in the Apennines.

There are two school camps, served by conveyor lifts, where children are introduced to skiing and snowboarding.

There is also a snow park, a snow playground for young skiers called Kinder Park Giovilandia, and a synthetic ice skating rink open throughout the year. www.comunecampodigiove.it.

Campo Felice

Campo Felice is in the central Apennines of Abruzzo, located within the SirenteVelino regional natural park, about 113 km from Rome. This ski resort is part of the Tre Nevi area, along with Ovindoli and Campo Imperatore, and is one of the favourite destinations for Romans. It offers 30 km of Alpine skiing of various levels, served by about 10 chair-lifts and several drag lifts for children, which can carry up to 18,000 skiers per hour and guarantee quick access to the slopes.

A modern snowmaking system with 250 artificial snow cannons cover over 16 kms. A must for snowboarders is the Swup Snowpark with its jumps and breathtaking passages. www. campofelice.it.

Campo Imperatore Campo Imperatore was the first ski resort to be developed in the Apennines. It is on the Gran Sasso mountain about 120 km from Rome and at 2,200 m is one of the highest in Italy. A cableway takes skiers from Fonte Cerreto to Campo Imperatore and two chair lifts take them

SPORT has three chair lifts and two ski lifts. www. sciareapescasseroli.it.

to five panoramic slopes. However at the time of going to press the cableway remained closed due to the avalanche in mid-January. It offers 15 km of Alpine skiing and 60 km of Nordic skiing. There is also a snow park with half-pipe and boarder cross slopes for snowboarders. www.ilgransasso.it.

Campo Staffi Campo Staffi is located in Filettino, 100 km from Rome. Its facilities include two chair lifts, three ski lifts and one manovia, which take skiers to 1,500-2,000 m. A 10-km long path is available for lovers of cross-country skiing. A shuttle service connects Filettino to the nearby villages. www.campostaffi.it.

Monte Livata The Alpine skiing areas of Monte Livata, located about 75 km east of Rome, include Campo Minio and Monna dell’Orso. The slopes, which run from Fossa dell’Acero to Campo dell’Osso, are famous for cross-country skiing and are particularly suitable for families. Three drag lifts take skiers to the top of the mountain, from where they can choose an Alpine skiing descent or a snowboarding and tubing track. The traditional cross-skiing circuit goes from Campo dell’Osso to Campaegli. www.livata.com.

country skiing slopes in central Italy are in the Altopiano delle Rocche which connects Ovindoli with Rocca di Mezzo.

The Magnola mountain (1,400-2,220 m), offers 30 km of Alpine skiing, served by modern and efficient lifts. The slopes in the Tre Nevi ski area are of all levels and there are some challenging black runs. There is the Magnola upper park (1,980 m) as well as the lower park, located along the Dolce Vita slope (1,650 m). Ovindoli also has a very efficient snowmaking system, which perfect artificial snow even when natural snow is lacking. www.ovindolimagnola.it.

Pescasseroli Located in the heart of the Abruzzo national park about 160 km from Rome, this resort offers 20-km of skiing, divided in 14 slopes for all abilities, including two difficult black runs, six red or intermediate slopes and six blue or easy ones for beginners. The 100-km long slope of Alto Sangro crosses the municipalities of Pescasseroli, Pescocostanzo, Aremogna, Pizzalto and Monte Pratello. The resort

Roccaraso Roccaraso, which is about equidistant from Rome and Naples, is one of the major skiing resorts in the Abruzzo. It is the heart of the largest ski area in central Italy, the Alto Sangro area, which includes 160 km of slopes and 36 lifts. Founded in 1910, Roccaraso’s skiing resort still hosts prestigious international competitions.

Its numerous slopes include some that are suitable for children. www.roccaraso. net.

Terminillo This limestone mountain (2,215 m) is one of the few resorts north of Rome, close to Rieti and about 100 km from the capital. Since it was made fashionable

by Mussolini in the 1930s it has been a tourist destination for passionate skiers, and it is still one of the favourite winter resorts for Rome’s skiers. It has one cable car, three chair lifts and a conveyor belt, as well as over 40 km of steep slopes for Alpine skiing and 20 km of perfectly beaten Nordic skiing slopes, which are also illuminated at night. Its variegated flora and fauna make it an ideal place for excursions, nature trails and other sporting activities, such as hiking and mountain races. It has a high-altitude riding school with horse-drawn sleds, and the possibility to rent powerful quads, which offer adventurous excursions on the snowy paths. www. monteterminillo.net.

Ovindoli Ovindoli is located between Rome and L’Aquila in Abruzzo, about 130 km from the capital in the Sirente-Velino regional natural park. Some of the longest crossFebruary 2017 | Wanted in Rome

37

Look for more classified ads on www.wantedinrome.com

classified

COLUMNs Accommodation vacant in town 2 BEDROOM APARTMENT BY THE PANTHEON. Elegant and private home by the Pantheon. Fantastic and unique location minutes from all the major attractions in Rome. 2 double bedrooms (The living room can be used as third bedroom), 2 bathrooms, modern kitchen fully equipped and 2

Free Classified Advertisements All classified advertisements in the free categories must be submitted via our website at www.wantedinrome.com. Space permitting free classified advertisements placed on our website will be downloaded and published in the magazine, but only if they include contact details. Jobs Wanted classifieds will no longer be accepted in our office but must be placed directly on our website www.wantedinrome.com

balconies facing a private courtyard and rooftops. Available now for 3 months. Email carolsplace1121@ gmail.com.

ATELIER FLAT TO RENT. Fully furnished apartment, five minutes away from Metro Station Furio Camillo, 1 bus away from FAO, windows facing in inner courtyard, quiet, two bathrooms, two bedrooms and one living room with kitchenette.

2/3 floor with lift, new building. Long stays.

3 month deposit. Info luisadelcampo@ hotmail.com.

MANZONI AREA. Studio flat with garden €750 per month.

Minimum six months. Email: dellascala4@ gmail.com.

NEAR PONTE MILVIO, LARGE, SUNNY ROOM TO RENT. English/ Italian lady rents large, sunny, furnished room,

private bathroom, fridge, balcony, kitchen use, weekly linen/cleaning, TV, wi-fi, 2 mins from bank, postoffice, supermarket, excellent public transport, €600 month, also short lets, photos available, references required. terrypeppiatt@alice.it.

NEAR PONTE MILVIO, QUIET, SUNNY FLAT. English/Italian lady rents sunny fully-furnished flat, 45sqm, 4th floor, living/kitchen, appliances, large bedroom, wall-to-wall closets, bathroom (tub/shower), TV, excellent bus service, 2 mins shops, bank etc., poss. small car/moto park, free Wi-fi, €850/month electricity/heating consumption-based. Available now, also short lets. More photos on request, references required. terrypeppiatt@ alice.it.

REFURBISHED APARTMENT IN MONTEVERDE VECCHIO. Looking for flatmate in a refurbished two-bedroom apartment (Monteverde Vecchio). It consists of a large bathroom, kitchenette with dining area and spacious bedroom (fully furnished).

Females only. Must be ok with cats.

Price: €500 + bills. For more info contact robert-apt2015@gmail.com.

ST PETER STUDIO APARTMENT. Independent apartment, 33 sqm, furnished, composed of living room, bedroom, kitchen corner, private bathroom, A/C, Wifi, fridge, TV. Tel 340 / 3106079, m.rita.salustri@virgilio.it.

Wanted in Rome does not accept responsibility for the content of the advertisements it publishes.

CLASSIFIED DEADLINE DATES Date di scadenza

Office hours: Mon – Fri 10.00 – 16.00.

Orari ufficio: lun – ven 10.00 – 16.00.

PUBLICATION DATES Giorno di pubblicazione

19 Feb 26 March

Wanted in Rome does not accept jobs vacant ads that discriminate on the basis of age, race, nationality, gender or religion. Via di Monserrato 49, 00186 Roma – Tel./fax 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com - www.wantedinrome.com

1 March 5 April

FREE CLASSIFIEDS must be submitted on our website, www.wantedinrome.com. Free ads are downloaded and published in the magazine space permitting.

February 2017 | Wanted in Rome

39

ST PETER STUDIO APARTMENT. Independent apartment. Furnished, composed of living room, bedroom, kitchen corner, bathroom, A/C, wifi, fridge, washing machine. Tel. 340 / 3106079, m.rita.salustri@virgilio.it.

VIA MERULANA - S. MARIA MAGGIORE. One single room to rent for 1 person. Shared bathroom, kitchen and washing machine. Tel. 338 / 7911289, 335 / 6803908. romachm@gmail.com.

Accommodation vacant out of town TIVOLI - MANDELA. 19th century tower, completely restored 90 sqm furnished / unfurnished apartment with entrance, 2 bedrooms, living room, bathroom, kitchen, €350 + €40 condominium. Tel. 06 / 6786400. fedel@email.it. 50 km from Rome, two apartments in old castle, completely restored, living room, 2 bedrooms.

Unfurnished. €310 + 40 condominium.

Other: 3 bedrooms, living room, dining room, 2 fireplaces, 2 bathrooms, balcony, terrace. €450 + 40 condominium.

Tel. 066786400. fedel@email.it.

Jobs vacant ENGLISH MOTHER-TONGUE NANNY. Reliable, positive nanny wanted for 3 boys aged 3, 8, 10 in Prati. 2 hours a day 16.00-18.00 (Mondays to Thursdays). Contact cristina.greco@gmail. com.

ESTABLISHED ENGLISH SCHOOL SEEKING. Established English School seeking qualified English mothertongue teachers for young children and adult courses for immediate start. Must have valid working documents. Please send your CV to job@ angloamerican.it.

LOOKING FOR OUTGOING PEOPLE. Looking for outgoing people to

40

Wanted in Rome | February 2017

work in English to give info to tourists and guide. Part time job. Send email to mackhugs@gmail.com.

ST. STEPHEN’S SCHOOL OF ROME IS SEEKING. St. Stephen’s School of Rome has an opening for a Relief/Substitute Nurse, who would be needed from 08.00 to 13.30 to cover for when the school’s full-time nurse is sick or unable to come in. The ideal candidate must have a valid, active nursing license, and preferably speak Italian and English. Contact mandy.patton@ sssrome.it.

THE AMERICAN UNIVERSITY OF ROME - TEACHING POSITION OPEN. The American University of Rome’s Business Administration program is now accepting CVs from potential Adjunct Professor candidates for the “Marketing Research” course in Spring 2017. The upper level elective in the marketing area provides students with an overview of the research process, sampling techniques and qualitative and quantitative data collection methods of primary data.

Adjunct faculty are expected to teach to the designated syllabus, provide support and guidance to students; and develop strategies to teach the course for the entire semester, using the course syllabus, objectives, and curriculum. PhD in relevant field, and/or experience teaching at University level.

Italian working papers essential.

Availability from

30 Jan to 15 May required. Interested candidates should send a CV immediately to humanresources@aur.edu (Ref. HR13/2016). Interviews will start immediately and continue until the post is filled.

TRAINING SCUOLA DI LINGUE IS SEEKING. Mothertongue qualified English teachers required for company courses in Rome. Please send CV to info@trainingclub.com.

TUTOR FOR STUDENT AT ST. GEORGE’S. Brilliant 14-year-old boy, fluent in English, needs motivation. Excellent pay. Call Josie at 340 / 8860363.

poetry EVERYBODY WANTS TO RULE THE WORLD. The exit of Britain is like the exit out of a door, the difference is which does not close. Slam in someone’s face. sernicolimarco@gmail.com.

FRIENDSHIP. It isn’t important to know your name, it is sufficient to count the flights of the bees to discover how much honey there is inside of you. sernicolimarco@gmail.com.

maybe because I mistook isles, but I succeeded to dry my skin by the same sun brightening the ship of which I was the captain. sernicolimarco@ gmail.com.

KISS. I met you in a restaurant over a glass of beer and another one. I didn’t imagine you could become so important. Union between two persons like hundred musical notes which link to form a beautiful song. God bless you, Laura. sernicolimarco@gmail.com.

TERROR IN THE MIRROR. Anymore days in Europe taking a metro and exploding in the air. Anymore days in the city going around to zigzag between the waste. Anymore days at home watching the television quite capable to say that someone killed the pope. sernicolimarco@gmail.com.

MARCO E LAURA. Our story is full of love like the one of a mother for her son, the difference is that not only grew but last a life. sernicolimarco@ gmail.com.

SURVIVOR. I ran along the coasts of all the seas, but I failed to find the shell which made me hear the noise of the waves that didn’t carry you back to me. Maybe because I mistook beaches,

Property for sale in town FLAT FOR SALE IN TRASTEVERE. Apartment for sale in Trastevere. Via Natale del Grande, near Piazza S. Cosimato. 100sqm apartment, fifth floor with a lot of light. View on the cloister of Regina Margherita. One large en-

trance with big living room. Two bedrooms, one kitchen, 1 bathroom. Price €550.000. Please contact 3442933591 or send email at alizzzarine@gmail. com.

Property for sale out of town CHARMING PRE-WAR VILLA IN GROTTAFERRATA. A fine example of the Castelli Romani era of the 1920s, this enchanting property features a 4BR home, a barn, a storage shed and 2,500 sqm of parkland with pine and olive trees, fruit orchards and a vineyard with grapes for eating and wine-making. From the monumental gate, a gently sloping driveway over 120 meters long leads to a decorative fountain, twin marble staircases and a bright sun terrace with sprawling views of Mount Cavo. segreteria@zucchettire.com.

February 2017 | Wanted in Rome

43

Rooms and flat shares TRASTEVERE - VIA DELLA LUNGARA. Large bright room with private bathroom, comfortable and well equipped. The room has a big bed, two armchairs, a desk, a wall cupboard with linen. Kitchen use. Including internet. Tel. 339 / 7857565. annabutticci@alice.it.

Schools and colleges ESE ROME SHORT COURSES, JANUARY INTAKE 2017. The European School of Economics (ESE) graduates are among the most competitive business professionals on the market, prepared for leadership roles in international marketing, finance, communication and management. With the ability to individually tailor their course of study, ESE students: study abroad with ESE centres worldwide; specialise in cutting-edge business sectors, such as fashion, film industry, events, music, sport, art, media and human resources among others; complete internships, selecting from more than 1500 leading organisations around the world. ESE Short Courses have been created especially for managers, professionals andaspiring professionals who prefer short, highly focused training to longer periods ofstudy. Professional Programmes provide participants with the knowledge necessaryfor specific occupational opportunities, and are open to a broader public: Film Business Management, Deal-making, Marketing & Sales Events Management Hospitality Management Specialised Programmes in Marketing, Management and Finance. Intake Dates: January, April, September 2017 Courses. Duration: 3-month in class course + minimum 3-month internship (optional) 12 in-class hours per week (Monday-Friday). Language of Instruction: English. Please do not hesitate to contact our centre for further details:

44

Wanted in Rome | February 2017

ese.roma@uniese.it +39 06 48906653 www.uniese.it www.eselondon.ac.uk.

ITALIAN BEGINNER LANGUAGE COURSE – LEARNING ITALIAN LANGUAGE. 10 weeks of Italian classes. 30 hours of classes, twice a week. Come enjoy and experience Rome while you learn Italian. We also help in the search for housing and accommodation (accommodation fees not included). The goals of the program: This program is designed exclusively for students who want to learn Italian through linguistic and cultural immersion in Italy (Rome).

Program’s duration and schedule: From 23 January to 7 April 2016 (10 weeks) 3 hours of Italian classes per week, Monday to Friday. Place: European School of Economics, Rome campus (Via della Cordonata 7- 00187). Course structure: The Italian Beginner module holds a weekly 3-hour class. Assessment Structure: Minor assessment – Three Short Quizzes (35%). Major Assessment - Final Written Exam + Oral test (65%). Program fees: €300/person, the basic fee includes 30 hours of Italian classes. Accommodation is not included in the basic fee. Upon completion of the program, students receive a certificate of attendance plus progression report showing the assessments results, awarded by the European school of Economics. Application Process: To apply for the course, candidates are required to contact the ESE

Rome Admissions Dpt by email at ese. roma@uniese.it and fill out the application form you’ll be provided with.

All application must be submitted by 10 January 2017. Entry requirements: Application form, High School or Undergraduate Degree Diploma, Résumé / CV (include reference to all previous education), Photocopy of passport / ID document and three passport-sized photographs. Maximum number of admittance: 30 (in order to provide a unique learning experience with a ratio between Professor to students, no more than 30 students will be admitted into this programme). Include the following code in the email subject: #ESEwantedinrome. By using this code you will be able to enroll into the course at this special price! Offer valid to 30 January 2017. Feel free to contact us for any details: European School of Economics, Rome, Via della Cordonata 7 - 00187. E: ese.roma@ uniese.it. T: 0648906653. S: ese.roma.

useful

numbers ASSOCIATIONS American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Association of Malaysians in Italy tel. 389 / 1162161, malaysiansinitaly@ gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, fax 065413971 Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490. www.pwarome.org Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 333 / 8466820 Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Women’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 347 / 9313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wnrome-homepage.blogspot.com

Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637, www.saintlouisdefrance.it La Librairie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.librairiefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484, Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza Navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books – English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com S. Susanna Lending Library Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 064827510 Opening times: Sun 10.00-12.30 Tues 10.00-13.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Fri 13.00-16.00

The following cinemas show films in English or original language when available – see Wanted in Rome website for details.

Casa del Cinema Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Villa Borghese, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it Cinema dei Piccoli Viale della Pineta 15, Villa Borghese, tel. 068553485 Cinema Doria Via Andrea Doria 52, tel. 0639721446.

Farnese Persol Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395 Fiamma Multisala Via Bissolati 47, tel. 06485526 Filmstudio Via degli Orti d’Alibert 1/c, tel.

334 / 1780632, www.filmstudioroma.com Greenwich Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Intrastevere Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Lux Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Multisala Barberini Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361 Nuovo Olimpia Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068 Nuovo Sacher Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 Odeon Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361 emergency numbers

books

chiamaroma

The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via della Vite 102, tel. 066795222

cinemas

• Ambulance tel. 118 • Carabinieri tel. 112 • Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 • Fire brigade tel. 115 • Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel.

800900999 • Police tel. 113 • Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355 February 2017 | Wanted in Rome

47

religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b, tel. 0636001881, Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 389 / 9691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 334 / 2934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroloni 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish) Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 333 / 2284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday service 10.30 Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei Santi Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Rome Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Sunday

48

Wanted in Rome | February 2017

service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Rome Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic), Via del Caravita 7, www. caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00 St Isidore’s College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic) Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0642903787, Sunday service 10.00 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30,10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 St Susanna Church (Roman Catholic), Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 0642014554, Saturday service 18.00. Sunday service 09.00 and 10.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+ children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/0658204580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it

Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 066861554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel.

0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 338 / 1675680 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for the disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 0644234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri”, Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022 transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel. 06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609 – 065551 – 063570 – 068822 – 064157 – 066645 – 064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel.

892021, www.trenitalia.it