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THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME
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WHERE TO GO IN ROME
ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS
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CONT
4. ARTS IN ITALY HIT
BY RUSSIA'S WAR ON UKRAINE Andy devane
10. SHELLEY’S LAST SUMMER
Mary Wilsey
16. guide to GARDENS AROUND ROME
MISCELLANY
18. 20. 22. 24. 26. 40. 40. 47. 48. 50.
DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 PROGETTO GRAFICO: Dali Studio Srl IMPAGINAZIONE: Simona Castellari STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 31/03/2022
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THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME
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EDITORIALS
WHAT'S ON
32. 36. 37. 38.
EXHIBITIONS Classical Dance OPERA
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Evening in Trastevere Thomas W Schaller Watercolour - 56x76 cm www.thomaswschaller.com
ENTS 4
ARTS IN ITALY HIT BY RUSSIA'S WAR ON UKRAINE
38
10
classical
SHELLEY’S LAST SUMMER
34 EXHIBITIONS
Culture
ARTS IN ITALY HIT BY RUSSIA'S WAR ON UKRAINE ITALIAN CULTURE HAS BEEN IMPACTED BY THE RUSSIAN INVASION OF UKRAINE
I
t is not everyday that a 19th-century Russian novelist becomes a trending topic on Twitter but this is what happened in Italy in early March. When the Bicocca university in Milan chose to drop a course on Fëdor Dostoevsky – against the backdrop of Russia’s invasion of Ukraine – all of a sudden the author of Crime and Punishment was the unlikely focus of public debate. Bicocca informed Professor Paolo Nori that it had cancelled his lecture series, the night before it was due to begin, “to avoid any controversy, in a moment of high tension.”
Jorit's giant portrait of Dostoevsky in Naples.
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Andy Devane An emotional Nori read out the contents of the email during an Instagram live video in which he slammed the university’s decision as “ridiculous”, saying “even dead Russians” are now the target of censorship in Italy. The university faced such a backlash that it reinstated the course the next day, stressing that it was “open to dialogue and listening even in this very difficult period.” A few weeks later the Neapolitan street artist Jorit reignited the controversy by painting a giant portrait of Dostoevsky on the walls of a high school in Naples. “Only with culture can the
Culture
Rome opera house lights up in the colours of the Ukraine flag.
causes of wars be understood and peace be built” – Jorit stated – “Culture is a universal value, of the ‘human tribe’, for which Dostoevsky is a heritage of humanity.” The world of Italian opera also found itself embroiled in the fallout from the Russian invasion. On 24 February, hours after missiles started to rain down on Ukraine, Milan’s centreleft mayor Beppe Sala issued an ultimatum to Russian conductor Valery Gergiev who was scheduled to conduct several stagings of Tchaikovsky’s Pique Dame at La Scala in March. The world-renowned conductor – a close friend of Russian president Vladimir Putin – was asked to make a choice: either condemn Russia’s war or don’t come back to La Scala. The mayor, who heads the board at the Milan opera house, demanded that Gergiev “take a clear position against this invasion.” After six days of silence from the Russian conductor, and with only three days left before the next performance, the mayor “ruled out”
Gergiev’s return to La Scala. It was the latest blow for the music director of the Mariinsky Theatre and one of Russia’s leading cultural ambassadors. The 68-year-old has since been dropped from a string of concerts and prestigious positions with philharmonic orchestras around the world. Russian soprano Anna Netrebko also stepped away from La Scala, in solidarity with Gergiev, announcing that neither she nor her Azerbaijani husband Yusif Eyvazov would appear in the March production of Cilea’s opera Adriana Lecouvreur. Unlike Gergiev, however, Netrebko made it clear that she is opposed to the war and wants it to end and “for people to be able to live in peace.” She also stressed that “forcing artists, or any public figure, to voice their political opinions in public and to denounce their homeland is not right. This should be a free choice.” Underlining that she is “not an expert in politics”, Netrebko said: “I am an artist and my purpose is to unite people across political divides.” Wanted in Rome • April 2022 | 5
Culture The façades of the opera houses in Rome and Milan are among Italy’s many landmarks to have been illuminated in the blue and yellow colours of the Ukrainian flag, in a show of support for the people of Ukraine. The new musical director at Bologna’s Teatro Comunale, Ukrainian conductor Oksana Lyniv, released a video statement at the outset of the Russian invasion. Lyniv, who earlier this year became the first female conductor ever to be appointed as musical director of an Italian opera house, said that “everybody who keeps silent... is supporting the dictator” who has “shown his real face”, adding that Ukraine “will never give up”. In late March Lyniv conducted Puccini’s Turandot, directed by Chinese activist Ai Weiwei, at Teatro dell’Opera di Roma. “At each rehearsal I find myself remembering my Ukrainian colleagues, because the last Turandot I directed was the one at the Odessa Opera House”, she told weekly Italian magazine Famiglia Cristiana before opening night. “And now many artists, orchestra musicians, ballet dancers and singers are taking up arms,
instead of instruments, and are defending our country”, she said, dedicating the production of Turandot to “the freedom of Ukraine.” Several high-profile exhibitions in Italy also got caught in the crossfire from the invasion of Ukraine and the growing international sanctions on Russia. On 9 March the Hermitage in St Petersburg sought an immediate return of its masterpieces on loan to art institutions in Milan and Rome, however five days later it toned down its demands, allowing the works to stay in Italy for “several more weeks”. The mitigated deal between the Hermitage and the Russian culture ministry came after mediation talks by the Ermitage Italia Foundation. Two Milan exhibitions were affected: Grand Tour at the Gallerie d’Italia which contains 25 pieces from the Russian museum including Canova’s Winged Cupid, and a Titian show at Palazzo Reale, due to end in June, featuring Young Woman with Feather Hat by the Venetian master. In Rome, Picasso’s Young Woman is on loan from
The musical director at Bologna’s Teatro Comunale, conductor Oksana Lyniv from Ukraine.
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Culture
Titian show at Palazzo Reale in Milan featuring Young Woman with Feather Hat. Photo ANSA.
the Hermitage to the Alda Fendi Foundation at Palazzo Rhinoceros, with the display due to end in May.
political struggle”, said Piotrovskij, concluding: “We need new approaches and agreements without a return to Cold War rhetoric.”
The Hermitage works at Gallerie d’Italia were allowed to remain until the exhibition’s end on 27 March, and while no date was given for the return of the works on loan to Palazzo Reale and Fondazione Fendi, there was “certainly no longer talk of immediate withdrawal”, reported online art newspaper Finestre sull’Arte.
In mid-March, after the bombing of a theatre in the besieged Ukrainian city of Mariupol made international headlines, the Italian government offered to rebuild it.
Hermitage director Mikhail Piotrovskij, quoted by Italian newspaper La Stampa, stated: “We are very sorry that cultural relations between our countries have collapsed in such ‘darkness’. We always say that the bridges of culture are blown up last. Now the time has come to protect them.” “Today’s museum situation must show a way of solving serious problems in a very complicated world in order not to become an instrument of 8 | April 2022 • Wanted in Rome
Announcing the news on Twitter, culture minister Dario Franceschini said the Italian cabinet had approved his proposal to “offer Ukraine the resources and means” to reconstruct the theatre as soon as possible, adding that theatres everywhere belong to all of humanity. Ukrainian president Volodymyr Zelensky wasted little time in thanking the culture minister, replying on Twitter: “You set a good example to follow. Together we will rebuild the country to the last brick.”
UK NATIONAL SETTLED IN ITALY BEFORE 1 JANUARY 2021? Make sure your residency in Italy is easily recognised. Request your new Carta di Soggiorno Elettronica from your local Questura as soon as possible. And don’t get confused…it isn’t the same thing as your electronic ID card. Find out more on gov.uk/livinginitaly
Literature
SHELLEY’S LAST SUMMER SHELLEY PLANNED TO SPEND THE SUMMER OF 1822 SAILING ALONG THE COAST OF TUSCANY BUT HE DROWNED WHEN HIS NEW BOAT WENT DOWN IN A SUMMER STORM Mary Wilsey
P
ercy Bysshe Shelley drowned in a summer storm in the Gulf of Spezia on 8 July 1822. He would have been 30 years old less than a month later, on 4 August. It took 10 days before his almost unrecognisable body was found on the beach just north of Viareggio.
There has been constant speculation in the two centuries since then as to what happened, and his early and tragic end has lent itself to all sorts of romantic and dramatic tales. On the bicentenary of his death it is generally now accepted that the sinking of his new boat and the drowning of
A mock-up of what Shelley's new boat might have looked like, with Casa Magni in the background.
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Literature all on board were caused by a summer storm, but the circumstances surrounding Shelley’s last journey were complicated and full of enough emotions to have left a trail of stories behind. The first accounts speculated that he took his own life. Although he was known to be depressed and had recurring bouts of ill health, this narrative seems unlikely considering that there were two other people on board, his good friend and sailing buddy Edward Williams and a young boat hand Charles Vivian. All of them had extensive sailing experience behind them. Another story that spread was that the boat was attacked by pirates, but there was no evidence of a struggle and all the signs were that the boat sank rapidly and almost without warning. It is certain from the evidence available that there was a sudden summer storm and such storms along the Mediterranean coast can be very violent. It is also certain that Shelley decided to set sail regardless from Livorno to get back to Lerici, where both the Shelley and Edwards family were living for the summer, rather than wait for better weather. Mary Shelley had recently had a serious miscarriage, but perhaps even more than that Percy was caught up in one of his endless romantic relationships, this time with Edward’s common-law wife, Jane. He may also have wanted to get home quickly because he had been disappointed by the meeting with Lord Byron and Leigh Hunt about the launching of their new magazine, The Liberal. He was out of sorts with Byron, which was not unusual. Although he had persuaded Byron and his entourage to move to Tuscany from Ravenna for the summer, their friendship was under strain. Byron’s rowdy parties and hunting expeditions as well as a rough and bad-tempered run-in with a member of the Pisan garrison all put pressure on the friendship. The Masi affair, as it was known, started outside the city when a member of the local Pisan garrison tried to ride his way at speed through the Byron entourage strung out across the road. Scuffles and insults flew and eventually SergeantMajor Masi was wounded by one of Byron’s entourage. Relations between the Pisans and the English community were at a low ebb and so were Shelley’s relations with Byron.
Jane Williams, Shelley's flame, at the time of his drowning.
Shelley’s recurring rivalry with Byron resurfaced. As he wrote to Hunt: “Particular circumstances -- or rather I should say, particular indispositions in Lord B’s character render the close and exclusive intimacy with him in which I find myself, intolerable to me; thus much my best friend I will confess and confide to you...However....I will take care to preserve the little influence I may have over this Proteus in whom such strange extremes are reconciled until we meet.” Richard Holmes. Shelley. The Pursuit. page 704. Shelley to Hunt, Letters Vol 2. It was in part to get away from Byron that Shelley decided to move to the coast in the spring of 1822. Another reason why the Shelleys and the Williams moved to Lerici was so that Shelley and Edward could sail throughout the summer. They were sailing buddies and even though Shelley had never been able to swim they both had considerable experience in small boats in lakes and most recently in the inland canals and rivers around Pisa. For Shelley an additional advantage was that Jane, his latest romantic attachment, would also be there. For Mary, who never liked Casa Magni, the house they had rented on the edge of the sea, it put an additional strain on her Wanted in Rome • April 2022 | 11
Literature uneasy relationship with Shelley, at a time when she was having another difficult pregnancy. The summer was going to be different from what either Shelley or Williams were used to. Byron who was living in Pisa had recently commissioned a large sea-going yacht, the equivalent of a schooner or a brigantine, to be built in Genoa by Captain Dan Roberts. Shelley, egged on by their mutual friend Edward Trelawny, decided he was not to be outdone and added his own commission, again to be overseen by the flamboyant Trelawny. These boats were not the usual small skiffs that Shelley loved so much for river sailing, but large sea-going yachts, the super yachts of the early 19th century. Their main characteristic was the two masts and a large area of sail. Byron’s yacht was to be called Bolivar, after the South American hero who led most of the continent to independence. Shelley was more romantic. He wanted his yacht to be called Ariel, the character from Shakespeare’s play The Tempest. Why Ariel? Shakespeare’s sprite Ariel was clearly on his mind and The Tempest was one of his favourite Shakespeare works. It was the name with which he identified his relationship with Jane Williams. This could not be more obvious than in the first stanzas of his poem With a Guitar. To Jane:
Ariel to Miranda - Take This slave of music for the sake Of him who is the slave of thee; And teach it all the harmony, In which thou canst, and only thou, Make the delighted spirit glow, Till joy denies itself again And too intense is turned to pain; For by permission and command Of thine own prince Ferdinand Poor Ariel sent this silent token Of more than ever can be spoken; Your guardian spirit Ariel, who From life to life must still pursue Your happiness, for thus alone Can Ariel find his own; So in Shelley’s mind the boat had a clear association with Jane. Many still refer to the boat as Ariel. Even a reference to Shelley on the Royal Museums Greenwich website calls it Ariel. Why then did it become known as Don Juan? Like many of the stories and legends that surround Shelley and Byron the name Don Juan can also be traced back to their friend, adventurer and general mischief maker Trelawny. He was responsible not only for the commissioning of the yachts but he was supposed to have persuaded Shelley to call the boat the Don Juan in honour of Byron’s epic satirical poem of the same name, which was causing considerably notoriety at the time and which Byron was still writing in summer 1822. A somewhat different association could be placed on Trelawny’s renaming of Shelley’s boat. The connotations of Don Juan and Don Giovanni the fictional womaniser could not have been lost on Shelley and his entourage. Shelley was openly writing about his cooled relationship with Mary at the time. His flirtation with Jane, the wife of his friend Edward, was plain for all to see and his infatuation with Teresa (Emilia) Viviani was the inspiration for his poem Epipsychidion.
Edward Trelawny
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No less complicated was Byron’s and Percy’s relationship with Claire Clairmont, Mary’s stepsister. Claire and Byron had an illegitimate daughter, Allegra, who was born in England in early 1817 and who died in April 1822 in the convent where Byron had sent her, much against Claire’s wishes. Percy was more often that not the arbiter between Byron on one side and
Literature
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ANZAC DAY 2021
The New Zealand and Australian Embassies in Rome will commemorate ANZAC Day with a virtual Memorial Service from the W
The ceremony can be viewed from 9.00 a.m. on Sunday 25 on the New Zealand Embassy and Australian Embassy Facebo
An illustration of the cremation on the beach, organised by Edward Trelawny. A copy of the work, by Louis Édouard Fournier, is in the Keats-Shelley House.
Claire on the other when it came to Allegra and tensions were high in spring 1822 when Allegra died aged five. Claire’s open connection with Byron did not help allay suspicions about the relationship between the inseparable Percy and Claire, always the cause of considerable gossip and and much of Mary’s anguish. With this in mind the re-naming of Shelley’s boat the Don Juan is something more than just a homage to Byron, but also a reference to Percy’s way of life as a notorious womaniser. Was this what Trelawny had in mind? No one will ever know. But that Trelawny was a key figure in the lives of the Romantic poets at this time is beyond discussion. After the discovery of Shelley’s body north of Viareggio it was Trelawny who stage-managed the dramatic cremation on the beach. It was Trelawny who was responsible for arranging the internment of Shelley’s ashes in the Protestant cemetery in Rome, managing to secure a burial space for himself alongside Shelley at the same time. He may also have been in love with Mary himself and certainly became one of her close entourage after Shelley’s death. 14 | April 2022 • Wanted in Rome
Whatever the stories and suspicions that circulated after Shelley’s death there were also good technical reasons why the boat went down in the storm. Shelley wanted the area of sail increased to make the yacht faster, so that he could outrace Byron, according to yet another story. But putting on more sail meant that the boat became unstable. In order to counteract what would have been a potentially dangerous heel when sailing in high winds more ballast was put on board. But as a result the boat sat lower in the water than it should have been in its original design. The danger was obvious enough, but probably no-one expected that Shelley would be out sailing in heavy weather. When the storm hit the boat took on too much water and went under fast. Of course seafarers and the superstitious will point out that changing the name of a boat is unlucky and should be avoided at all costs. According to this age-old superstition Ariel/Don Juan never stood a chance. And what bitter irony that Shelley took the name Ariel for his boat from one of his favourite Shakespeare works, The Tempest.
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ANZAC DAY 2022
e War Cemetery in Rome.
will commemorate
The Australian and New Zealand Embassies in Rome will commemorate ANZAC Day with a
April ook pages.
CEREMONY AT THE ROME WAR CEMETERY Via Nicola Zabaglia (Piramide) commencing at 9.00 a.m. on Monday 25 April ALL WELCOME Health protocols will be in place On arrival at the cemetery Green Passes are to be exhibited
Details on the Australian Embassy and New Zealand Embassy Facebook pages @AusEmbIT @NZEmbassyRome
Th on the
GUIDE TO
GARDENS AROUND ROME CASTEL GIULIANO One of the best rose gardens in Lazio is located about 7 km from Bracciano north of Rome. The estate gardens surround the large square three-storey farm castle, which stands on a high island of volcanic tufa rock facing Cerveteri and the sea, and they encompass the church of S. Filippo Neri in the grounds. The planting of the garden is the work of Marchesa Umbertina Patrizi and shows a garden style that is rarely found in public parks in Italy. There are more than 1,000 rose bushes, including fine climbers on the castle walls. Only open for group bookings. The dates of this year's Festa delle Rose were not available at the time of going to press. Palazzo Patrizi, Castel Giuliano, tel. 0699802530, www.castel-giuliano. it. FLORACULT The 11th edition of Floracult, the popular floral and amateur gardening festival, takes place in the La Storta area of north Rome from 23-25 April, from 10.00-19.00. Dozens of exhibitors participate in the four-day festival which brings together Italy’s horticultural experts and the latest gardening trends. Ample parking and free shuttle bus from La Storta station. Admission €9; children under 12 free. Casali del Pino, Via Andreassi 30, La Storta, Via Cassia km 15, tel. 345/9356761, www. floracult.com. LA MORTELLA On the island of Ischia off the coast of Naples is an oasis of tropical and Mediterranean plants. The gardens were created in 1958 by Susana Walton, the wife of English composer Sir William Walton. La Mortella is divided into two areas: the valley garden and the hill garden. The valley, designed by celebrated English landscape architect Russell Page, is shady, luxuriant and tropical whilst the hill, designed by Lady Walton, is sunny and Mediterranean. The garden design takes advantage of the sea views and is enriched by fountains. Open until 30 October, on Tues, Thurs, Sat, Sun from 09.00-19.00. La Mortella also organises open-air concerts of classical music in its Greek Theatre which overlooks the sea. Via Francesco Calise 39, Forio d’Ischia (NA), tel. 081986220, www. lamortella.org. LANDRIANA The Primavera della Landriana, the annual garden fair and horticultural sale,
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takes place at the Landriana gardens south of Rome from 22-25 April, from 10.00-19.00. The ten-hectare gardens were created in the 1950s by owner Marchesa Lavinia Taverna Gallarati Scotti with the help of Russell Page. Now considered the most important postwar garden in Italy, Landriana contains 32 secret spaces and walks including one planted entirely with Mutabilis roses. Driving from Rome, take Via Pontina or the coastal road to Ardea, or by train on the Rome-Nettuno line to Campo di Carne. Via Campo di Carne 51, Tor S. Lorenzo, Ardea, tel. 0691014140, www.giardinidellalandriana.it.
NINFA This romantic English-style garden spread over eight hectares was built by the Caetani family at the start of the 20th century on the ruins of the mediaeval town of Ninfa. The garden is open, with online booking, at weekends and on public holidays until 1 November. This year it is open every Sunday in April and May. However groups (minimum of 30 people) that book a guided tour can visit the gardens all year round. Ninfa is part of the natural monument of the same name established by the Lazio region in 2000. Fondazione Roffredo Caetani Onlus, Via della Fortezza 04010 Sermoneta (Ninfa), www.fondazionecaetani.org.
ORTO BOTANICO This botanic garden is located in the heart of Trastevere, behind Palazzo Corsini and across from the Villa Farnesina, on a 12-hectare sloping site filled with palms, yucca and terraces with gravel paths. Established in 1883 after the Corsini family donated it to the Italian government, it is now run by the University of Rome La Sapienza. The gardens host over 3,500 species of plants, including specially-cultivated species in danger of extinction in the wild, and feature a scent-andtouch garden for the visually impaired. Open daily 10.00-17.30. Largo Cristina di Svezia 24, Trastevere, tel. 0649917106, sweb01.dbv.uni roma1. i t /or to. PONTIFICAL GARDENS OF CASTEL GANDOLFO The Barberini gardens at Castel Gandolfo are located in the Alban hills about 25 km south-east of the capital, and have spectacular views over Lake Albano. The 30-hectare papal gardens feature ancient Roman ruins dating back to Emperor Domitian as well as a square of holly oaks, paths of roses and aromatic herbs, and a magnolia garden. The 55-hectare site, which includes a 25-hectare Vatican farm, has acted as a papal retreat since the 17th century but in 2014 was opened to the public by Pope Francis for the first time. Guided tours can be booked by emailing visiteguidat egruppi. musei@scv.va, full visiting information on the Vatican Museums website www.mv.vatican.va. ROSETO COMUNALE Rome’s municipal rose garden on the Aventine hill opens from 21 April until mid-June. There are two separate
sections overlooking the Palatine hill and Circo Massimo: the upper garden with its collection of classic “old roses”, and the lower garden featuring the entries of the prestigious annual international rose competition known as the Premio Roma, which takes place in mid-May, and a collection of winning roses from previous years. The gardens will be closed on the day of the prize-giving but from the next day onwards the public can admire the winning specimens. The Roseto is home to over 1,000 varieties including a green-blossomed rose from China. Daily 08.30-19.30. Via di Valle Murcia 6, tel. 065746810, rosetoromacapitale@comune.roma.it.
pools, water staircases, grottoes and nymphs are revealed at every turn. The villa has a bar and restaurant on the terrace overlooking the gardens and there is a bookshop. Monday from 2:00 pm to 7:45 pm, last admission 6:45 pm. From Tuesday to Sunday from 8:30 to 19:45, last admission at 18:45. For full visiting times see website. Piazza Trento 5, Tivoli, tel. 199766166, www.villadestetivoli.info.
VILLA D’ESTE Built for the Cardinal Ippolito D’Este around 1555, these complex renaissance water gardens in Tivoli are among the most famous in the world. Water from the nearby river Aniene is channeled under the town of Tivoli to feed the gardens’ vast range of spectacular fountains, including the celebrated organ fountain. Cascades,
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LAGO DI ALBANO This volcanic crater lake presents visitors with beautiful views of its clear water and surrounding forests. The picturesque towns along the shores serve as popular summer resort areas for Romans, including Castel Gandolfo, home to the summer papal palace whose gardens were recently opened to the public. On the other side of the lake is Palazzolo, a villa bought by Rome’s Venerable English College in 1920 and now open to guests. The towns surrounding the lake are known for their restaurants, shops and fruit farms. Swimming, fishing and boating are among the favourite activities for visitors, and the lake’s beach is located on the western shore. A simple 45-minute train ride from Termini, visitors can reach Lago Albano by taking the FL4 train towards Albano Laziale and getting off at the Castel Gandolfo stop.
around rome LAGO DI NEMI Lago di Nemi is a small and unique volcanic lake where divers in the 19th century discovered two large ships built for the notorious Roman emperor Caligula at the bottom of the lake, filled withbottom of the lake, filled with artworks and treasures. Replicas of the ships along with other artefacts are on display at the nearby Museum of Roman Ships. Travellers can also visit the natural caves around the lake, which were a favourite haunt of 19th-century foreign artists such as Turner. Nemi is associated with the cult of the Roman goddess Diana, and, for the last 80 years, an annual strawberry festival. Visitors can reach the lake by taking the SS7 Appia southbound as far as Genzano, and then following signs for Nemi. LAGO DI VICO Formed by the volcanic activity of Mount Venus, Lago di Vico offers a unique geological backdrop set amid lush woodland and hills. The surrounding nature reserve is a haven for wildlife, but what is most characteristic of the area are the hazel and chestnut plantations. Lakeside campsites and hotels offer swimming, sailing and horse riding. The two towns worth a visit are Ronciglione and Caprarola with its magnificent and recently restored Villa Farnese. Lago di Vico is a 90-minute drive from Rome taking the SS2 Cassia, and turning north at Sutri.
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LAGO DI BOLSENA Located on the site of the Vulsini volcano, dormant since about 100 BC, this crater lake has two islands and is surrounded by rolling hills and vegetation. The area around Montefisascone on the southeast shore of the lake is famous for its Est! Est!! Est!!! wine. The town of Bolsena in the northeast is a popular tourist resort in summer and it is here that the famous so-called Eucharistic Miracle took place in 1263 when a Bohemian priest is said to have seen blood coming from the host that he had just consecrated at Mass. Capodimonte on the southwest of the lake is also worth a visit. The lakeside area provides activities for sports and nature enthusiasts all year round. The best way to reach Lago di Bolsena from Rome is by car, as buses to Bolsena from Termini Station are infrequent. LAGO DI BRACCIANO Just north-west of Rome along the Via Cassia, Lake Bracciano is one of the most easily accessible lakes for Romans. The ban on motor boats (except for a little ferry) means it remains an ideal spot for swimming, sailing and canoeing. The Lega Navale operates a dinghy sailing school in Anguillara. Churches and historic sites are located in the three small towns around the lake: Bracciano, Trevignano and Anguillara. There are also places for camping and horse riding tours by the lake, which is just an hour on the Viterbo train line from Rome’s Ostiense station. The lake is overlooked by the 15th-century Orsini-Odescalchi castle in Bracciano, often chosen as the venue for jet-set weddings, and there is also an air force museum at nearby Vigna di Valle. LAGO DI MARTIGNANO This tiny volcanic lake just to the east of Lake Bracciano offers clean water and beaches with scenic views of the surrounding meadows and wildlife. Lago di Martignano is known for its outdoor activities such as horse riding, hiking, mountain biking and swimming. Umbrellas, loungers and luggage storage are available to rent along with canoes, sailboats and windsurfing equipment. It is also known for the hot sulphurous springs surrounding the lake. Arriving at Lago di Martignano by car is the easiest option. Reaching the lake by public transport involves taking the FM3 train to Cesano and opting for either a local bus or taxi.
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ARTandSEEK Please note that there may be some English-language cultural workshops visitsof to variation to opening times atand some museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For these activities due to covid restrictions. It event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforis advisable to check websites for visiting kids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandsedetails and make reservation before going. ekforkids.com. Bioparco Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and offers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it. Bowling Silvestri This sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.
20 | April 2022 • Wanted in Rome
There are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com. Casa del Parco Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com. Casina di Raffaello Play centre in Villa Borghese offering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Raffaello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadiraffaello.it.
Cinecittà World This 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special effects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it. Climbing Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, Thurs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473. Explora The 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it. Go-karting Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it. Gymboree This children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, offering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it. Hortis Urbis Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it. Il Nido Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.
Luneur Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it. Rainbow Magicland The 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it. Time Elevator A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. The time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it. Zoomarine This amusement and aquatic park outside Rome offers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.
Wanted in Rome • April 2022 | 21
Rome’s artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant importantstreet street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre. Here is where to is find Rome’s mainthe street artstreet projects murals. from the centre. Here where to find main artand projects and murals around Rome. Esquilino Esquilino Murals Murals byby Alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Pistone, Nicola Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, Diamond. PiazzaMafredo Manfredo Fanti 47. Piazza Fanti 47.
Marconi Marconi The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artistSeth Seth is located in a street artist is located in a former former soap factory Via Antonio soap factory on Viaon Antonio AvogaAvogadro, opposite dro, opposite Ostiense'sOstiense’s landmark Gasometro. For For details see landmark Gasometro. details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com.
Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz Metropoliz This This former former meat meat factory factory inin the the outskirts of Rome is nowa astreet street outskirts of Rome is now art art museumasaswell well as as being museum being home hometoto some200 200squatting squatters,migrants. many of The them some migrants. The Museo dell’Altrodi e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altroveor diMAAM, Metropoliz, or MAAM, Metropoliz, is only open is only open on Saturdays, and on Saturdays, and features the work features the work of more than 300 of more than 300 artists including artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Edoardo Kobra, and GioDiamond. Pistone, Pistone, Sten&Lex See Sten&Lex, Pablo Echaurren and MAAM Facebook page for details. Borondo. See MAAM Via Prenestina 913. Facebook page for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense Ostiense Fronte Del by by Blu.Blu. Via Via del Porto Fronte Del Porto Porto del Fluviale. Porto Fluviale. Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Fluviale. Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Magazzini Shelley by Generali. Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense. Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Pigneto Ostiense. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Pigneto Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.
22 | April 2022 • Wanted in Rome
Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi. Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Fortebraccio. 2501 mural on Via Blu Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Francesco Baracca. Francesco Baracca. Prati Prati Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo Nuovo Mercato Trionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria. Andrea Doria. theSabotino. bear by Daniza the bear byDaniza ROA. Via ROA. Via Sabotino. Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Magee. Via Via The by Fintan Cristoforo Numai. Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals andand Gio Tunnel muralsby byMr MrTHOMS THOMS Pistone. Via Decio Mure.Mure. Gio Pistone. Via Decio Nido di di Vespe ViaVia del Nido VespebybyLucamaleonte. Lucamaleonte. Monte del Grano. del Monte del Grano. Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89. Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by byBlu. Blu.Via ViaCiciliano Ciciliano and and Via Via Murals Palombini (Casal Palombini (Casaldè dèPazzi). Pazzi). Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station. Metro B station. S.S. Basilio Basilio SanBa SanBa features features large-scale large-scale works on on the façades façades of in the of social-housing social-housingblocks blocks the disadvantaged north-east suburb of in the disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerasuburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. tion project includes works by Italian The project artistsregeneration Agostino Iacurci, Hitnesincludes and Blu works by Italian artists alongside Spain's Liqen. ViaAgostino Maiolati, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Spain’s Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, S. Giovanni Via Treia. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S. Giovanni Apulia corner of Via Farsalo. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.
It’s aa New NewDay Daybyby Alice Pasquini. It’s Alice Pasquini. Via Via Anton Ludovico. Anton Ludovico. S. Lorenzo S. Lorenzo Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Feminicide mural by Elisa Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo. Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi. Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Mural by by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Via Aquilonia. Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia. S. Pietro S. Pietro Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S. di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo. Gallo. Testaccio Testaccio Hunted byby ROA. ViaVia Galvani. HuntedWolf Wolf ROA. Galvani. #KindComments by by Alice Pasquini, Via #KindComments Alice Pasquini, Volta, Testaccio market. Via Volta, Testaccio market. Tor Pignattara Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via ViaAntonio AntonioTempesta. Tempesta. Dulk. Etnik.Via ViaBartolomeo Bartolomeo Perestrello Etnik. Perestrello 51. 51. Coffee Break Etam Cru. Via Coffee Break by Etamby Cru. Via Ludovico Pavoni. Ludovico Pavoni. Tom by Jef Via Gabrio TomSawyer Sawyer by Aerosol. Jef Aerosol. Via Serbelloni. Gabrio Serbelloni. Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema PasoliniVia by Acqua Diavù.Bullicante. Former Cinema Impero, Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Alessi. Herakut. Capua 14. GaleazzoVia Alessi. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Herakut. Via Capua 14. Oddi 6. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia Tor Big Marancia The City Life scheme features 14-m The Big City Life scheme tall murals by 22 Italian and features interna14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and tional street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia andartists Jerico.including The idea international street was to transform area's of Mr Klevra, Seth,the Gaia andblocks Jerico. flats into an open-air art museum. Via The idea was to transform the area’s Tor Marancia. www.bigcity.life.it. blocks of flats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.
Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth. Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.
Wanted in Rome • April 2022 | 23
ROME'S MAJOR
MUSEUMS IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS AND MAKE RESERVATION BEFORE GOING. VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.
Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums
Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.
STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian
Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.
Borghese Museum
Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.
Castel S. Angelo Museum
Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine
Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.
24 | April 2022 • Wanted in Rome
Crypta Balbi
Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.
Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia
Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.
MAXXI
Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.
Palazzo Corsini
Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.
Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale
Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.
Palazzo Altemps
Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.
Palazzo Barberini
Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme
Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.
Villa Farnesina
Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.
PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe
CITY MUSEUMS
Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.
Centrale Montemartini
Chiostro Del Bramante
Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.
Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.
Capitoline Museums
Doria Pamphilj Gallery
Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna
Galleria Colonna
Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.
MACRO
Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.
Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.
MATTATOIO
Giorgio de Chirico House Museum
Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.
Museo Barracco
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.
Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi
Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.
Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.
Keats-Shelley House
Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.
Museo storico della Liberazione
Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets
Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.
Museo Canonica
Palazzo Merulana
Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).
Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.
Museo Napoleonico
Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.
Wanted in Rome • April 2022 | 25
ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY
ART GALLERIES
1/9 Unosunove
1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.
A.A.M. Architettura
Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ff-maam.it.
Contemporary Cluster
Visual art, design, architecture, fashion design and beauty apothecary in a 17th-century palace. Via dei Barbieri 7, tel. 0668805928, www.contemporarycluster.com.
C.R.E.T.A.
Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Delfini, Via dei Delfini 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.
Dorothy Circus Gallery
Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.
Ex Elettrofonica
This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.
Fondazione Memmo
Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.
Fondazione Pastificio Cerere
This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.
Fondazione Volume!
The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.
26 | April 2022 • Wanted in Rome
Franz Paludetto
Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.
Frutta
This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.
Gagosian Gallery
The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.
GALLA
Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at affordable prices by artists working in various fields. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.
Galleria Alessandro Bonomo
Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.
Galleria Valentina Bonomo
Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.
Galleria Frammenti D’Arte
Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.
Galleria Lorcan O’Neill
High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.
Galleria della Tartaruga
Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.
Galleria Il Segno
Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.
MAXXI amazes you, always art
architecture design photography cinema
28 | April 2022 • Wanted in Rome
Galleria Mucciaccia
Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.
Galleria Russo
Operativa Arte Contemporanea
A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.
Pian de Giullari
This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.
Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.
Galleria Varsi
Plus Arte Puls
A dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di Grotta Pinta 38, tel. 066865415, www.galleriavarsi.it.
Gavin Brown's Enterprise
New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.
Il Ponte Contemporanea
Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.
RvB ARTS
Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.
Sala 1
Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.
This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.
La Nuova Pesa
S.T. Foto libreria galleria
Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.
MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea
Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.
Magazzino d’Arte Moderna
Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.
Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.
Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri
The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.
T293
Monitor
The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.
Nero Gallery
The Gallery Apart
Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.
This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.
Nomas Foundation
TraleVolte
This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.
Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.
Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.
White Noise Gallery
Based in the S. Lorenzo district, this gallery exhibits unconventional work by young Italian and international artists. Via della Seggiola 9, tel. 066832833, www.whitenoisegallery.it.
Wunderkammern
This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.
Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin
Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it. Wanted in Rome • April 2022 | 29
where to go in Rome
WHAT’S ON Crazy at Chiostro del Bramante. Shoplifter / Hrafnhildur Arnadottir, Hypermania, 2022. Courtesy See2022 page| 32. Wanted in Romeartist. • April 31
EXHIBITIONS As of 1 April the covid Green Pass is no longer required to visit museums and archaeological sites in Italy. Many venues require advance booking and the wearing of masks remains obligatory. For visiting details check websites in advance.
IL VIDEO RENDE FELICI, VIDEOARTE IN ITALIA 12 APRIL-4 SEPT
Valentina Valentini curates an exhibition devoted to Italian video art taking place in two venues: Palazzo delle Esposizioni on Via Nazionale and Rome’s municipal Gallery of Modern Art (GAM) on Via Francesco Crispi. The show delves into the production of video art in Italy, a leading protagonist of the experimental genre, from the late 1960s to the present day. On display are 20 installations and about 300 multimedia works created by more than 100 artists. For details see Pala Expo website, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.
SUPER BAROQUE 26 MARCH-3 JULY
Art in Genoa from Rubens to Magnasco is the title of a new
“Super Baroque” exhibition at the
including
Rubens,
Van
Dyck,
Il video rende felice. Marinella Pirelli, Film ambiente, 1968-1969/2004, installation | Archivio Marinella Pirelli, Varese. Courtesy Richard Saltoun Gallery, photo Lorenzo Palmieri.
Scuderie del Quirinale, organised in collaboration with the National Gallery of Washington. The show is billed as “a journey among the aristocratic families, the splendour, the wealth, the power, the magnificence, the masterpieces and works of an entire era in the city that has become the centre of the world, Genoa, the Superb.” Comprising about 120 works from major Italian and American museums, as well as prestigious private collections, the exhibition traces the extraordinary period of artistic explosion and economic boom in 17th-century Genoa. The show features portrayals of pomp, luxury and landscapes by masters
Castiglione, Piola, De Ferrari and Magnasco. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via Ventiquattro Maggio 16, www. scuderiequirinale.it.
CURSUS HONORUM 24 MARCH-2 OCT
Under the title “The government of Rome before Caesar”, this exhibition at the Capitoline Museums aims to illustrate the political roles that formed the backbone of the power system that governed Rome in the Republican age. The artefacts on display, examining the life of patricians as well as plebeians, are explained by “talking statues” in each room. For visiting details see website, www.museicapitolini.org.
LONDON CALLING: BRITISH CONTEMPORARY ART NOW 17 MARCH-17 JULY
Superbarocco at Scuderie del Quirinale. Diana e Atteone con Pan e Siringa by Valerio Castello.
32 | April 2022 • Wanted in Rome
Palazzo Cipolla stages an exhibition of British contemporary art by 13 globally renowned artists with strong links to London. The 30 works on display were created by artists from various generations, all of whom have either lived or studied in London. The exhibited artists were born over five decades, between 1937 and 1978: David Hockney, Michael Craig-Martin, Sean Scully, Tony Cragg, Anish Kapoor, Julian Opie, Grayson Perry, Yinka Shonibare, Jake and Dinos Chapman, Damien Hirst, Mat Collishaw, Annie Morris and Idris Khan. The pieces
Cursus Honorum at the Capitoline Museums.
on show were created using diverse techniques including ceramics, painting, sculpture, drawing, photography and video. Palazzo Cipolla, Via del Corso 320, www. fondazioneterzopilastrointernazionale. it.
JAGO
SCRIBBLING AND DOODLING: FROM LEONARDO DA VINCI TO CY TWOMBLY 3 MARCH-22 MAY
The French Academy in Rome at Villa Medici presents an exhibition devoted to the often overlooked
excercise of doodling, examining the carefree scribbles of great artists through the ages, from doodle king Leonardo da Vinci up to master scribbler Cy Twombly. Comprising almost 300 original works dating from the Renaissance to the modern era, the exhibition sheds light on a free-flowing practice
12 MARCH-3 JULY
Palazzo Bonaparte reopens after two years with an exhibition devoted to the young Italian sculptor Jago, born Jacopo Cardillo in 1987, who is known for his hyper-realistic sculptures and his huge following on social media. The show features 12 works, ranging from small carved river stones to the more recent monumental sculpture La Pietà and his high-profile Habemus Hominem bust of Pope Emeritus Benedict XVI. Piazza Venezia 5, www.mostrepalazzobonaparte.it.
BILL VIOLA: ICONS OF LIGHT 5 MARCH-26 JUNE
Palazzo Bonaparte’s first show in its new season is dedicated to Bill Viola, the American video artist whose installations revolve around electronic, sound and image technology. Curated by Kira Perov, the exhibition comprises 10 works by Viola including Ascension (2000) and Water Portraits (2015). Piazza Venezia 5, www. mostrepalazzobonaparte.it.
London Calling at Palazzo Cipolla. Black Square Night [CORSIVO] 2020 by Sean Scully.
Wanted in Rome • April 2022 | 33
CRAZY: MADNESS IN CONTEMPORARY ART 18 FEB-8 JAN 2023
Bill Viola at Palazzo Bonaparte. Martyrs series - Water Martyr (detail). Photo Kira Perov © Bill Viola Studio.
that has punctuated the history of artistic creation. In addition to da Vinci and Twombly, the exhibited artists include Michelangelo, Pontormo, Titian, Bernini, Picasso and Basquiat, whose doodles are contained on the backs of canvases, beneath fresco fragments, in the margins of manuscripts or alongside finished drawings. Villa Medici, Viale della Trinità dei Monti 1, www.villamedici.it.
Chiostro del Bramante presents a large-scale exhibition project curated by Danilo Eccher. The works of 21 international artists fill the venue’s internal and external spaces “because madness cannot have limits.” The exhibition, described as unpredictable and immersive, features 11 site-specific works displayed in rooms not normally open to visitors. The 21 artists include Petah Coyne, Ian Davenport, Janet Echelman, Lucio Fontana, Anne Hardy, Thomas Hirschhorn, Alfredo Pirri, Gianni Politi. Chiostro del Bramante, Arco della Pace 5, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.
GOOD NEWS: WOMEN IN ARCHITECTURE 16 DEC-11 SEPT
Rome’s MAXXI documents the growing presence of women, collectives and studio couples in the architectural profession as it shakes off the 20th-century stereotype of the architect of the charismatic (male) grandmaster. The exhibition examines how new figures are infusing new forces into contemporary architecture, with a particular focus on the work of
GUIDO RENI AND ROME: NATURE AND DEVOTION 1 MARCH-22 MAY
Galleria Borghese stages an exhibition of works by Guido Reni, the first such major show dedicated to the Baroque master in Italy in three decades. The exhibition is built around Reni’s painting Country Dance, recently bought back by Galleria Borghese from whose collection it was sold at the end of the 19th century. Curated by Francesca Cappelletti, the exhibition focuses on Reni’s interest in landscape painting in relationship to the other Italian and foreign painters active in Rome in the early 17th century. Galleria Borghese, Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5, www. galleriaborghese.beniculturali.it.
34 | April 2022 • Wanted in Rome
Scribbling and Doodling at Villa Medici.
international studios directed or co-chaired by female designers. MAXXI, which was designed by the celebrated Zaha Hadid, pays tribute in the show to architects including Charlotte Perriand, Elizabeth Dillerand and Frida Escobedo alongside a series of video interviews. Museo nazionale delle arte del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4/A, www.maxxi.art.
MARGARET BOURKE-WHITE 21 AUG-30 APRIL
Museo di Roma in Trastevere presents an exhibition dedicated to the pioneering American photojournalist Margaret BourkeWhite (1904-1971). The show comprises more than 100 images from the Life archive in New York, documenting the photographer’s unconventional vision and life. Bourke-White was the first known female war correspondent and the first woman to be allowed to work in combat zones during world war two. The photographs on display in Rome chronicle soldiers in world war two, aerial shots of American cities, portraits of Stalin and Gandhi, apartheid in South Africa and racial segregation in the US. Piazza S. Egidio 1/b, tel. 060608, www.museodiromaintrastevere.it.
Classical ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA ROMANA ASSOLI 8 APRIL
This is the fifth concert in the Assoli series to promote contemporary music and musicians. With Michela Marchiana violin. Music by Razzi, Rafie, Catenaccio and Donatoni. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 18, www.filarmonicaromana.org.
I CONCERTI DELL’UMANITARIA 9 APRIL
This is the second concert in this series, with Denis Malakhov, piano, playing music by Bach, Rachmaninov and Schumann. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 18, www. filarmonicaromana.org.
FABRICA; MUSICA E LETTERATURA 30 APRIL
Daniele Gatti conducts the S. Cecilia Orchestra.
SEMYON BYCHKOV 7-9 APRIL
The Saint-Saens concerto no 3 for violin and Brahms symphony no 4 are part of the programme. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36, www. santacecilia.it.
GRYGORY SOKOLOV IN RECITAL 11 APRIL
Sokolov plays music by Beethoven, Brahms and Schumann.
Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36. Sala S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it.
MICHELE MARIOTTI ALESSANDRO TAVERNA 14-16 APRIL
Michele Mariotti conducts the S. Cecilia Orchestra with pianist Alessandro Taverna. Music by Prokofiev, Britten (concerto for piano) and Tchaikovsky. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36. Sala S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it.
Oida, ho visto quindi so. Fragmenti di futuro. Rome tra modernismo e futurismo storico. From the past, through the present to the future, based on a need to look beyond oneself, to escape the everyday and to dream. Voice, guitar, accordion and piano. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 18, www. filarmonicaromana.org.
ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA DANIELE GATTI KIAN SOLTANI
31 MARCH- 2 APRIL Cellist Kian Soltani plays Shostakovich’s concerto for cello and orchestra with the S. Cecilia orchestra conducted by Daniele Gatti. The programme also includes the Symphonie Fantastique by Berlioz. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36, www.santacecilia.it.
36 | April 2022 • Wanted in Rome
Grygory Sokolov will be in recital at Parco della Musica for S. Cecilia on 11 April.
IN HONOUR OF BRUNO CAGLI 21 APRIL
With the Orchestra Roma Sinfonietta conducted by Francesco Lanzillotta. Two operas with texts by Bruno Cagli, a former president of the Accademia S. Cecilia. L’Ultimo Avventore by Lucio Gregoretti and the premiere of Dimenticanza al Ministero delle Colonie by Marco Betta. In collaboration with Rome’s University of Tor Vergata. Sala Petrassi, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36. Sala S. Cecilia, www. santacecilia.it.
ANTONIO PAPPANO PUCCINI’S MESSA DI GLORIA 22-23 APRIL
Antonio Pappano conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus performing Puccini’s Messa di Gloria, Ponchielli’s Elegia and De Sabata’s Juventus, a symphonic poem for orchestra. With Saimir Pirgu tenor and Mattai Olivieri
Sakari Oramo conducts the S. Cecilia Orchestra.
baritone. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36. Sala S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it.
SAKRAI ORAMO EMMANUEL TJEKNAVORIAN 28-30 APRIL
The S. Cecilia conducted by
Orchestra is the Finnish
conductor Sakari Oramo performing Ciel d’Hiver by the Finnish composer Kaija Saariaho, violin concerto n 2, I Profeti, by Castelnuovo-Tedesco (played by violinist Emmanuel Tjeknavorian) and Schumann’s Symphony no 1, Primavera. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36. Sala S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it.
DANCE MILAN GALA INTERNATIONAL FOR PEACE 7 APRIL
Russian and Ukrainian dancers join together for peace. The event features Jacopo Tissi, who became the principal dancer of the Bolshoi in January and left in protest against the war in March. Teatro Arcimboldo, Viale dell’ Innovazioni 20, www.teatroarcimboldi.it.
TEATRO ALLA SCALA GALA FRACCI 9 APRIL
This gala evening in honour of Carla Fracci, one of Italy’s great ballerinas who died last year,
Nogravity's Exodus at Teatro Olimpico on 26 May
includes pieces from Giselle, Romeo e Giulietta, La Vedova Allegra, Onegin and more. It will be danced by Alessandra Ferri, Marianela Nuňez, Roberto Bolle and Carsten Jung. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.
Manuel Legris. This is a coproduction with the Weiner Staatsballett. Legris retains the original spirit but updates it with an interpretation that appeals to today’s public. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.
SILVIA BY DELIBES
ROME
11-26 MAY
The choreography of this 19th century work by Delibes is by
TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA
The ballet programme is a fraction Wanted in Rome • April 2022 | 37
Martinez. The story is based on a poem by Lord Byron and the original music was by Adolphe Adam. It was then added to in the 19th century by Cesare Pugni, Delibes Riccardo Drigo, just as the choreography went through various revisions, especially in Russia. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.
TEATRO OLIMPICO of its previous self with only one ballet before the summer season at the Terme di Caracalla.
THE CORSAIR 11-15 MAY
With the etoile, the principal dancers and the ballet corps of the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma ballet school. The conductor is Alexei Baklan and the choreography by Jose Carlos
OPERA MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA DON GIOVANNI BY MOZART 27 March-12 April
This Robert Carson version of Mozart’s opera was first staged at La Scala during the 2011-2012 season. It will be conducted by Pablo Heras-Casado and a new cast with baritone Christopher Maltman as Don Giovanni. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.
EXODUS NOGRAVITY 26 MAY
The Nogravity physical theatre dance company performs Exodus. The biblical story of Exodus is repeated time and again throughout history. It is a story of migration especially in the Mediterranean. This work examines the journeys of immigration across deserts and the sea on a timeless journey, updated to take account of
TEATRO S. CARLO BALLET FOR PEACE 4 APRIL
Olga Smirnova, the Russian dancer who recently left the Bolshoi Ballet in protest against the Russian invasion of Ukraine, and Brazilian Victor Caixet who left the Mariinsky for the same reason, will dance in a performance for peace, along with other Russian and Ukrainian stars of dance. Teatro S. Carlo di Napoli, Via S. Carlo 98, www.teatrosancarlo.it
UN BALLO IN MASCHERA BY GIUSEPPE VERDI 4-22 MAY
This is a new La Scala production conducted by Riccardo Chailly, directed by Marco Arturo Marelli in his debut at La Scala. Francesco Meli takes the role of Riccardo, with baritone Marco Salsi and soprano Sondra Radvanovsky as Amelia. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.
thanks to the covid pandemic. La Nuvola, EUR.
ROME
I PURITANI BY BELLINI
TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA
This production was created for the Salzburg Festival by the director Sven-Eric Bechtolf and then modified for the Vienna Opera. The part of Ariadne is sung by Krassimira Stayanova, with the debut of American
10-13 APRIL
38 | April 2022 • Wanted in Rome
NAPLES
soprano Erin Morely and tenor Stephen Gould. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.
ARIADNA AUF NAXOS BY RICHARD STRAUSS 15 APRIL-3 MAY
modern times. The choreography is by Emilano Pellisari and Mariana who is also the principal dancer with five other acrobatic dancers. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it.
LA PASSIONE BY J.S.BACH This work has now been postponed until 2024. It is a new production with EUR Spa but has been delayed because of various production requirements that cannot be fulfilled at the moment, largely
Belcanto singer Jessica Pratt sings Elvira in I Puritani at Teatro dell'Opera di Roma.
19-30 APRIL
Roberto Abbado conducts this new production of Bellini’s opera by Andrea De Rosa. Jessica Pratt, one of the top international belcanto sopranos, sings the part of Elvira, with Lawrence Bronwlee as Talbo and Franco Vassallo as Sir Richard Forth. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www. operaroma.it.
lassical lassical
The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city. The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city. There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums. Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All
concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica. Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza,
Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone 32a, RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome.
often concerts, festivals and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com
Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and7 the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards. Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com 5040 | Oct 20182022 • Wanted in Rome | April • Wanted in Rome
MUSIC MUSIC THEATR THEATRE CINEMA CINEMA VENUES VENUES
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MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA
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The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wantedshow in Rome website for The following cinemas movies in English weekly updates. or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for Adriano, Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 weeklyPiazza updates. Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 0686391361 Barberini, Piazza BarberiniMastroianni 24-26, 1, tel. Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello 0686391361 tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it
Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 068553485 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 068553485 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 066861068 Odeon, Piazza Stefano 22, tel. Nuovo Sacher, LargoJacini Ascianghi 1, 0686391361 tel. 065818116
Space Moderno, Piazza della 44, tel. Odeon, Piazza Stefano JaciniRepubblica 22, tel. 0686391361 06892111 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec06892111 chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111
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Wanted in Rome | December 2017
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Teatro 06684000314, ww T Teatro Belli, 06684000314, ww ww T Teatro ww Brancaccio, ww T Teatro ww Ghione, ww T Teatro ww 06684000311, ww T 06684000311, ww
VINCENZO BELLINI
I puritani TEATRO COSTANZI APRIL 19 - 30
CONDUCTOR ROBERTO ABBADO DIRECTOR ANDREA DE ROSA TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA ORCHESTRA AND CHORUS A TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA NEW PRODUCTION
operaroma.it
FOUNDERS
MAIN SPONSOR
PRIVATE SHAREHOLDERS
PATRONS
ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance
Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it
pera
Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
op
ock
Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.
Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it
Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,
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Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it
heatre heatre
Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net 50 | Jan 2019 • Wanted in Rome
Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel. 14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Wanted in 2018 Rome• •Wanted April 2022 | 43 51 | Oct in Rome
WANTED junior inROME Creative Writing and Sculpture St. Stephen’s School April may have a reputation as “the cruellest month,” but students at St. Stephen’s are welcoming in spring with great bursts of personal expression! We hope that you will enjoy this seasonal selection of poetry and translations from Moira Egan’s Creative Writing class. Anita Guerra’s Sculpture students, meanwhile, created fanciful works from men's ties purchased at
the Porta Portese Flea Market, giving new life to these almost obsolete garments. Some turned into menacing serpents, others into flowering buds. A few squirmed or knotted up, while others undulated, like waves in the sky. These are just some of the ways that we celebrate creativity, one of the School’s core values.
This piece, written by the Tang Dynasty Chinese poet He Zhizhang (659-44 CE), was translated by Lixuan D., Grade 10
Sunny H. (Grade 9).
An Archaeologist’s Spring by Sofia T.S., Grade 10
Willow Song Newly grown leaves sprout from the tall willow tree, Tender branches sway, like thousands of fluttering green ribbons. Whose gifted hands trimmed these delicate young leaves? It happens to be the tender spring breeze of February.
Liva R. (Grade 9), Nicos S. (Grade 10), Lilian G. (Grade 9), Alice C. (Grade 9).
44 | April 2022 • Wanted in Rome
The soothing sound of tall pines swaying in the breeze Hitherto bare cherry trees awakening Warm sun and chilled shade are welcoming Parakeets and scattered starlings call out for spring An ebony songbird puffs out its chest to sing a joyful tune Yet I spend my days searching for the past Skeletal creatures never seeing the sun Roots of history under millions of years of dirt My life, asking questions to long-dead souls and worlds While this earth is alive, beautiful, moving. Fascinated by the deceased, I dedicate my time, but what if I am disappointing even them? They would be intrigued by this world, yet I dwell on theirs.
Spring by Ilaria C., Grade 12 Have there been preparations for the arrival of spring? Have the leaves changed into lime vests, berries glazed like candied fruits? Have the workers shortened their sleeves, shaved their beards?
Sophie D. (Grade 9).
Where the flowers bloom by Sara H., Grade 11 Rosy cheeks pressed against his naked shoulder, Love affair between spring and winter. Words rolled off her tongue tenderly into the air He loved when she read sweet poetry The pleasure of this activity, however, never left his mind, never showed on his face. She put her hands on his chest, Holding his concrete heart between her fingertips. She wished for it to blossom, She wished for ripe fruit, But rarely do flowers planted in the spring bloom in the winter.
Have there been preparations for the arrival of a warm sea? Have the crabs exited quarantine, sand prepared itself for stepping? Have the mosses learned the danger of prankery? You, who mumble in hibernation, have you prepared for the arrival of heat? Have you noticed your shadow mature, urged for the rain to cease? Have you prepared for the arrival of spring?
Awaiting, Impatiently by Natalie S., Grade 12 Heat, Hot Hands crack In the colds of March Stabbing the cloth, Old bones tremble Inside the leather skin. The sough of the wind whips The faces of the few With noses exposed to the cold. We have this numb red instead Not the roses that bled That should have already been here.
Viola F. (Grade 9).
WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR: For young writers and artists Wanted in Rome accepts creative contributions from students in all international schools in Rome. Articles on topics related to either the student’s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 1,000 words and we also accept illustrations. Teachers who would like to propose a project can contact editorial@wantedinrome.com.
Wanted in Rome • April 2022 | 45
46 | April 2022 • Wanted in Rome
agorski
By Kate Z
FETTINE PANATE CON CIPOLLA ROSSA E SALVIA Usually served hot, fettine panate are thin slices of beef which are dipped in egg and breadcrumbs and fried until golden. This recipe gives them a summery twist and turns them into almost a kind of salad by cutting them into strips and mixing them with red onion, fresh sage leaves and a zing of vinegar, all gently cooked together to encourage the flavours to blend. Easy to make in advance and store in the fridge, they benefit hugely from a rest before eating so this recipe is a brilliant addition to buffets or picnics. When buying the beef look for thin slices, the best are called 'girello' in Italian. If they are a little thick you can tenderise them by hitting them with a meat hammer, rolling pin or even the bottom of a tumbler or glass. The process of coating the slices can be messy but taking the time to make sure they have a good covering of breadcrumbs will help to give the finished dish a bit of bite. For another variation, the fried fettine panate can also be left whole, topped with a little tomato passata and a slice of mozzarella (or mozzarella and mushrooms) and baked in the oven at 180°C for a few minutes until the mozzarella has melted before serving them hot as a second course.
Ingredients Serves 4 4 thin slices of beef (approx 500g) 25 fresh sage leaves Flour Extra virgin olive oil 4 eggs, beaten Half a glass of white wine vinegar Fine breadcrumbs Salt 1 lt vegetable oil, for frying Pepper 3 red onions, roughly sliced Prepare the ingredients for the coating; put a generous amount of flour in a large bowl, season with salt and pepper and mix well. Crack the eggs into a separate bowl and beat well with a fork or hand whisk. Pour breadcrumbs into a wide dish, tray or board. Take the first slice of beef and coat it well in flour then dip it on both sides first in the egg and then in the breadcrumbs. Push the meat into the breadcrumbs with your fingers to ensure it is well-covered. Set aside and repeat the process with the remaining slices. Heat the vegetable oil in a wide saucepan or large frying pan until it is boiling. Test by sticking a wooden toothpick into the oil, if small bubbles form around the toothpick the oil is ready. Carefully place the beef slices into the oil (you may have to do this one or two pieces at a time depending on the size of your pan) and fry for about 2 minutes, turning over once, until they are golden and crunchy. Set the slices aside on a tray covered with kitchen paper to drain, sprinkle with salt and leave to cool. Once the slices have cooled down, use scissors to cut them into strips about 2cm x 5cm. In a large frying pan heat a good splash of olive oil and add the chopped red onion. Cook for a couple of minutes until it is just starting to soften then add the sage leaves, tearing any large ones in half. Cook for a minute and then add the beef strips and heat through. Add the vinegar and cook everything together for another minute to combine the flavours. Tip into a bowl and leave to cool down, then cover and place in the refrigerator until serving.
The best cheap seafood in rome It’s difficult to dine out on a delicious fish supper without breaking the bank, which is why we have put together this list of five small osterie and trattorie that serve high quality and fairly priced fish dishes. S. LORENZO DA FRANCO AR VICOLETTO At Franco al Vicoletto in S. Lorenzo you can enjoy simple fresh fish dishes. There’s a set menu costing between €25 to €30 or you can order from the à la carte menu. The ‘Tiberio’ menu starting at €25 includes a mixed seafood salad, sautéed mussels and clams, fried vegetables and anchovies with octopus, a mixed fish grill, lemon sorbet and a quarter of a litre of house wine. TRASTEVERE PEPPO AL COSIMATO Peppo al Cosimato serves traditional peasant fish recipes. The eatery opened on Via Natale del Grande in 2017 under the former owners of Caffè Perù. Among the dishes on offer, you can enjoy bruschette with marinated anchovies and mackerel (€3), lasagne with cuttlefish (€10), and the catch of the day (€14). It’s a large restaurant with an outdoor terrace.
PIGNETO LA SANTERIA DI MARE This locally named ‘pizzicheria di pesce' (fish delicatessen) in Pigneto has a laid back, retro feel. We highly recommend the fish pagnotelle (small round loaves) for €10 and the greater amberjack fish alla cacciatore for €12. TORMARANCIA LA VONGOLA VORACE This small trattoria serving fish in Tormarancia offers, among many dishes, a fish trio (panzanella salad with shell fish, cured salmon and marinated anchovies) and pici (pasta) with clams for €10. APPIO AND BARBERINI LA PESCERIA RE DI ROMA E BARBERINI This fantastic fishmonger has both a small restaurant and a street food stall. You choose your preferred fish at the bar and then sit down to eat. The spaghetti alle vongole for €12.50, fried calamari for €10.50 and fish balls for €9.50 come highly recommended.
www.puntarellarossa.it
La Santeria di Mare, Via Del Pigneto 209, tel. 0689230730. Peppo al Cosimato, Via Natale del Grande 9, tel. 065812048. La Vongola Vorace, Largo Luigi Antonelli 15, tel. 0631055314. La Pesceria Re di Roma, Via Appia 234, tel. 3938834361. La Pesceria Barberini, Via di S. Nicola da Tolentino 23, tel. 0642903789.
Indirizzi
Da Franco Ar Vicoletto, Via Dei Falisci 2, tel. 064957675.
Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com
International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com
Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it
Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com
Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)
50 | April 2022 • Wanted in Rome
Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30
Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00
Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680
Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it
52 | April 2022 • Wanted in Rome
St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022
Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606
Emergency numbers • • • • • • •
Ambulance tel. 118 Carabinieri tel. 112 Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 Fire brigade tel. 115 Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 Police tel. 113 Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355
