CONTENTS
EDITORIALS MISCELLANY WHAT'S ON
4. EASTER IN ROME
Andy Devane
8. COMMUNITY MATCHING: PROMOTING REFUGEE INTEGRATION AND SOCIAL COHESION
Laura Clarke
12. gardens around rome: 2023 guide
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CONTENTS
26 EXHIBITIONS
8
COMMUNITY MATCHING: PROMOTING REFUGEE INTEGRATION AND SOCIAL COHESION
30 opera
4 EASTER IN ROMEEASTER IN ROME
ITALY MARKS EASTER WITH TRADITIONS, FOOD AND PUBLIC HOLIDAYS
Andy Devane
Easter celebrations in Rome this year follow the recent hospitalisation of Pope Francis, with a respiratory infection, days before his busy Holy Week schedule.
The 86-year-old pontiff returned to the Vatican on Saturday in time for Palm Sunday Mass and the Easter ceremonies at St Peter's, which may be a little different than usual.
Francis is set to preside at all Holy Week liturgies, with a cardinal as principal celebrant at the altar, the Vatican has confirmed.
The Via Crucis or Way of the Cross ceremony will take place at the Colosseum on the night of Good Friday, 7 April. This solemn candle-lit procession – which dates
to the 18th century and was revived in 1964 – attracts thousands of faithful who listen to meditations re-enacting Christ’s crucifixion.
Traditionally the pope imparts the Urbi et Orbi blessing from the balcony of St Peter’s at midday on Easter Sunday. For full details of the Vatican’s Easter liturgical programme see website, www.vatican.va. There are also numerous English-language religious services for Easter in Rome, see below.
What to eat in Rome at Easter
Roman restaurants typically offer menus featuring abbacchio (lamb) for Easter, or Pasqua, however you will need to reserve your table in advance due to high demand.
Easter Sunday brunch in Rome is a savoury
occasion with Romans laying out a delectable spread of hard-boiled eggs (often painted brightly), salami and cheese, accompanied with the classic pizza al formaggio.
Colomba cake
Rome bakeries sell a sweet, dove-shaped cake known as the Colomba, which has been a firm fixture on Italy’s Easter calendar for almost a century. Its origins date back to the 1930s to Motta, a company in Milan already famous for its Panettone and Pandoro, two classic sweet breads associated with the Christmas season in Italy. The Colomba was dreamed up as a way of using the same baking equipment and many of the same ingredients to cash in on the Easter market. The plan worked.
So what exactly is the Colomba made from and what is the difference between it and Panettone? The dough for the Colomba is produced in a similar way to Panettone, with flour, eggs, sugar, natural yeast and butter. After being fashioned into a dove shape, the dough is topped with icing and almonds before being baked.
Whereas the dome-shaped Panettone is made with raisins and mixed candied fruit, Colomba contains only candied orange
peel and no raisins, with a sugary almond topping. These days the Colomba comes in a variety of versions with flavours including chocolate, cherry, pear and pistacchio.
Where are the best places in Rome to buy a Colomba? Expert restaurant guide Puntarella Rossa recommends Roscioli, Panificio Bonci, Casa Manfredi and Le Levain.
Pasquetta
Rome’s city and state-run museums will be open on Easter Sunday, with some also opening exceptionally for Easter Monday, or Pasquetta. The Vatican Museums will be closed on both days.
Pasqua and Pasquetta are national holidays in Italy, with all public offices and schools closed on Monday 10 April. Many Romans mark this day by having a picnic in the city’s parks.
In contrast to Christmas, which is very much a family-oriented occasion in Italy, Easter is a time to celebrate with friends.
As a popular Italian expression goes: “Natale con i tuoi, Pasqua con chi vuoi”, meaning Christmas with your family, Easter with whoever you want.
Rome's Easter religious services in English
All Saints’ Anglican Church
Via del Babuino 153/b, tel. 0636001881.
2 April. Palm Sunday 10.30.
6 April. Maundy Thursday Eucharist. 19.00.
7 April. Good Friday services: Organ recital with short meditations 12.00-13.00. Liturgy of the Lord's passion 13.00-14.00. Stations of the Cross with the building of the Easter Garden (children and families) 14.00-15.00.
9 April. Easter Sunday Garden Vigil and Holy Communion 06.00. Festal Eucharist 10.30.
Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church
Piazza Ponte S. Angelo 68, tel. 0668768314.
7 April. Good Friday service 16.30.
9 April. Easter Day Communion 10.30.
Rome Baptist Church
S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652.
6 April. Maundy Thursday 19.00.
7 April. Church open for prayer and study 07.00 to 19.00.
9 April. Easter Worship Services: at Pincio in Villa Borghese at 07.00, Bible study 09.30, Easter Worship 10.30.
International Christian Fellowship Rome
Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, www.icfrome.org
9 April. Easter Sunday 10.00, 11.45.
St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church of Scotland
Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627.
2 April. Palm Sunday service 11.00.
6 April. Maundy Thursday service 18.30.
7 April. Good Friday service 18.30.
9 April. Easter Sunday worship 11.00.
St Isidore’s College (Roman Catholic)
Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359.
2 April. Palm Sunday Mass 10.00
9 April. Easter Sunday Mass 10.00.
St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic)
Via della Caravita 7.
2 April. Palm Sunday 11.00
5 April. Concert: Haydn's Seven Last Words 19.30
6 April. Holy Thursday (Mass of the Lord’ Supper) 18.00.
7 April. Good Friday (Veneration of the Cross) 15.00.
8 April. Holy Saturday (Easter Vigil) 20.00.
9 April. Easter Sunday 11.00.
St Paul’s Within-the-Walls (Episcopal)
Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli 58, tel. 064883339.
6 April. Maundy Thursday 19.00.
7 April. Stations of the Cross 18.00.
Good Friday Liturgy 19.00.
8 April. Easter Vigil 20.00.
9 April. Festival Sung Eucharist 10.30.
S. Silvestro in Capite (Roman Catholic)
Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066797775.
2 April. Palm Sunday 10.00, 17.30.
6 April. Holy Thursday 17.00.
7 April. Good Friday Liturgy 17.00.
8 April. Easter Vigil 19.30.
9 April. Easter Sunday 10.00, 17.30.
St Patrick’s American Church (Roman Catholic)
Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0642014554.
2 April. Palm Sunday 09.00, 10.30.
6 April. Holy Thursday 17.30.
7 April. Good Friday. Stations of the Cross 12.00. Liturgy of the Lord's Passion 12.45-13.45.
8 April. Easter Vigil 19.30.
9 April. Easter Sunday 09.00, 10.30.
S. Silvestro in Capite
COMMUNITY MATCHING: PROMOTING REFUGEE INTEGRATION AND SOCIAL COHESION
UNHCR PROGRAMME ENABLES REFUGEES AND ITALIANS TO MEET ON AN EQUAL LEVEL AND BECOME FRIENDS
Alina Vasieikina is an artist and now also a refugee in Italy after fleeing from her native Ukraine in early 2022. Her Italian buddy is called Daniele, and he is an artist like her. Together they
have started working on creative projects, and this has given her hope. Daniele has also introduced Alina to his artist friends and she anticipates that they too might hold the key to employment. “I now feel
excited about the future and motivated to integrate, live and create,” she says.
Abdulrahman Shabahah is an engineer and a refugee from Palestine. He arrived in Italy in 2020 but struggled to integrate because, as he explains, “I hadn’t found anyone to help me really understand this culture, to open the door to this community”. Then he became buddies with Sergio, also an engineer, and his life changed. “Sergio was instrumental for me when I rented my first apartment: he helped me understand how things worked,” says Abdulrahman. “He didn't do things for me, absolutely not: rather, he taught me how to do them myself. Sergio will always be my father and my brother,” he adds.
Alina and Daniele and Abdulrahman and Sergio are participants in Community Matching, a programme of UNHCR, the UN Refugee Agency, in partnership with CIAC and Refugees Welcome Italia and funded by the Italian Buddhist Institute Soka Gakkai through Italy’s 8x1000 tax devolution scheme, to promote refugee integration in Italy by fostering supportive social relationships with local volunteers.
“The concept is simple,” says Chiara Cardoletti, UNHCR Representative for Italy, the Holy See and San Marino. “Anyone arriving in a new country would benefit from having someone to support them; just imagine how beneficial it is for refugees arriving in Italy, who not only do not know this country, but are also burdened by their experience of forced migration. In a buddy, they can find not only the strength and courage to make a new life, but also help in doing it.”
Registration for the project is through an online form and applicants are then contacted for an introductory interview and basic training. Prospective refugee and volunteer buddies are then paired up for an
initial period of six months and have access to support from project staff throughout.
So far, 358 matches had been made under Community Matching since its inception in 2021 (figure updated to 31 December 2022), and the programme is now operational in 10 Italian cities: Bari, Bergamo, Bologna, Milan, Naples, Padua, Palermo, Parma, Rome and Turin. It expanded quickly in 2022 in response to the arrival in Italy of tens of thousands of refugees fleeing the war in Ukraine, and now 34 per cent of refugee buddies are Ukrainian.
In all, refugee buddies come from a total of 41 countries, including Afghanistan (13 per cent of the total), Mali (8 per cent), Somalia (6 per cent) and Nigeria (5 per cent). They are predominantly women (55 per cent) and in the 26-40 age bracket (52 per cent), with 29 per cent aged 25 or below. Some 60 per cent have a form of international protection (refugee status or subsidiary protection) and 33 per cent have temporary protection under a special European mechanism activated in response to the needs of refugees arriving from Ukraine.
Volunteer buddies are instead predominantly Italian (93 per cent), with much smaller percentages coming from Ukraine (2 per cent) – people who were already part of the established Ukrainian community in Italy
Refugees
volunteer buddy from Turin, is in no doubt about the impact on her of her match with Federico, a Chinese refugee 20 years her junior. “We hit it off almost immediately and, despite the age difference, a beautiful friendship was born,” she says. “Community Matching has changed my life, it has enriched it on a relational level. The people around me are also much more sensitive to certain issues and, more importantly, they can put a face and a name to the term 'refugee’."
Indeed the ultimate aim of Community Matching is to break down barriers and stereotypes in order to create more welcoming, inclusive and cohesive societies and allow refugees to contribute more fully to their host communities, for the benefit of all.
– Russia and Mali. The vast majority are women (78 per cent) and they tend to be older than their refugee buddies, with 49 per cent aged 41 or over.
The early results of the project, based on a study of 115 matches created in the first half of 2022 and monitored after six months, are extremely positive. In fact, data show that after only six months, 50 per cent of refugee buddies report having improved their Italian language skills. There has also been a significant improvement in employment and housing stability, with 62 per cent of refugees having a job contract and 35 per cent having a rental contract after six months, up respectively from 37 per cent and 18 per cent at the start of the match. Finally, 86 per cent of refugees reported being better able to navigate the local area and access services and 36 per cent reported an improvement in their overall condition.
Joelle Ntumba Nkongolo’s case is emblematic. The 30-year-old former journalism student from Democratic Republic of Congo was living in a government reception facility and was unemployed when she joined the programme as a refugee buddy. Six months later, she had found a room in a rental apartment with the support of her volunteer buddy Chiara and had a job in a McDonald’s.
However, the benefits are not limited to refugee buddies only. Daniela Pizzuto, a
“One of the biggest challenges facing refugees in Italy is integration and feeling part of the social fabric of this country,” said Cardoletti. “Community Matching is part of a new idea of integration that is taking hold, as people begin to realise that ‘the other’ is not really all that different. It helps counter fear and racism in order to bring about societal change.”
Alina bears her out. “Having a buddy provides the first real opportunity for mutual exchange with Italians on an equal level,” she says. “It enables us to feel freer to express ourselves.”
Community Matching also aims to provide policy makers with a model of best practice for refugee integration based on a standard methodology that can be applied in all contexts and clear indicators to measure impact.
“The project grew out of the idea of what it means to be humans and tried to bring rigour to something that is actually very simple,” says Fabiana Musicco, director of Refugees Welcome Italia, a partner in the project. “No-one is unsuitable to be a buddy under Community Matching, but there are good matches.”
Alina, Abdulrahman, Joelle and Daniela certainly seem to have found theirs.
For more information about the project see https://buddy.unhcr.it/en/
CELEBRATING 50 YEARS OF AMERICAN EDUCATION IN ITALY
GARDENS AROUND ROME
CASTEL GIULIANO
One of the best rose gardens in Lazio is located about 7 km from Bracciano north of Rome. The estate gardens surround the large square three-storey farm castle, which stands on a high island of volcanic tufa rock facing Cerveteri and the sea, and they encompass the church of S. Filippo Neri in the grounds. The planting of the garden is the work of Marchesa Umbertina Patrizi and shows a garden style that is rarely found in public parks in Italy. There are more than 1,000 rose bushes, including fine climbers on the castle walls. Only open for group bookings. Palazzo Patrizi, Castel Giuliano, tel. 0699802530, www.castel-giuliano.it.
FLORACULT
The 11th edition of Floracult, the popular floral and amateur gardening festival, takes place in the La Storta area of north Rome from 22-25 April, from 10.00-19.00. Dozens of exhibitors participate in the four-day festival which brings together Italy’s horticultural experts and the latest gardening trends. Ample parking and free shuttle bus from La Storta station. Admission €10; children under 12 free. Casali del Pino, Via Andreassi 30, La Storta, Via Cassia km 15, tel. 345/9356761, www. floracult.com.
LA MORTELLA
On the island of Ischia off the coast of Naples is an oasis of tropical and Mediterranean plants. The gardens were created in 1958 by Susana Walton, the wife of English composer Sir William Walton. La Mortella is divided into two areas: the valley garden and the hill garden. The valley, designed by celebrated English landscape architect Russell Page, is shady, luxuriant and tropical whilst the hill, designed by Lady Walton, is sunny and Mediterranean. The garden design takes advantage of the sea views and is enriched by fountains. Open from 1 April to 5 November, on Tues, Thurs, Sat, Sun from 09.00-19.00. La Mortella also organises open-air concerts of classical music in its Greek Theatre which overlooks the sea. Via Francesco Calise 39, Forio d’Ischia (NA), tel. 081986220, www. lamortella.org.
LANDRIANA
The Primavera della Landriana, the annual garden fair and horticultural sale, takes place at the Landri -
ana gardens south of Rome from 22-25 April, from 10.00-19.00. The ten-hectare gardens were created in the 1950s by owner Marchesa Lavinia Taverna Gallarati Scotti with the help of Russell Page. Now considered the most important postwar garden in Italy, Landriana contains 32 secret spaces and walks including one planted entirely with Mutabilis roses. Driving from Rome, take Via Pontina or the coastal road to Ardea, or by train on the Rome-Nettuno line to Campo di Carne. Via Campo di Carne 51, Tor S. Lorenzo, Ardea, tel. 0691014140, www.giardinidellalandriana.it.
NINFA
This romantic English-style garden spread over eight hectares was built by the Caetani family at the start of the 20th century on the ruins of the mediaeval town of Ninfa. The garden is open, with online booking, at weekends and on public holidays until 1 November. This year it is open every Sunday in April and May. However groups (minimum of 30 people) that book a guided tour can visit the gardens all year round. Ninfa is part of the natural monument of the same name established by the Lazio region in 2000. Fondazione Roffredo Caetani Onlus, Via della Fortezza 04010 Sermoneta (Ninfa), www.fondazionecaetani.org.
ORTO BOTANICO
This botanic garden is located in the heart of Trastevere, behind Palazzo Corsini and across from the Villa Farnesina, on a 12-hectare sloping site filled with palms, yucca and terraces with gravel paths. Established in 1883 after the Corsini family donated it to the Italian government, it is now run by the University of Rome La Sapienza. The gardens host over 3,500 species of plants, including specially-cultivated species in danger of extinction in the wild, and feature a scent-andtouch garden for the visually impaired. Open daily 10.00-17.30. Largo Cristina di Svezia 24, Trastevere, tel. 0649917106, sweb01.dbv.uni roma1. i t /or to.
PONTIFICAL GARDENS OF CASTEL GANDOLFO
The Barberini gardens at Castel Gandolfo are located in the Alban hills about 25 km south-east of the capital, and have spectacular views over Lake Albano. The 30-hectare papal gardens feature ancient Roman ruins dating back to Emperor Domitian as well as a square of holly oaks, paths of roses and aromatic herbs, and a magnolia garden. The 55-hectare site, which includes a 25-hectare Vatican farm, has acted as a papal retreat since the 17th century but in 2014 was opened to the public by Pope Francis for the first time. Guided tours can be booked by emailing visiteguidat egruppi. musei@scv.va, full visiting information on the Vatican Museums website www.mv.vatican.va.
ROSETO COMUNALE
Rome’s municipal rose garden on the Aventine hill opens from 21 April until mid-June. There are two separate
sections overlooking the Palatine hill and Circo Massimo: the upper garden with its collection of classic “old roses”, and the lower garden featuring the entries of the prestigious annual international rose competition known as the Premio Roma, which takes place in mid-May, and a collection of winning roses from previous years. The gardens will be closed on the day of the prize-giving but from the next day onwards the public can admire the winning specimens. The Roseto is home to over 1,000 varieties including a green-blossomed rose from China. Daily 08.30-19.30. Via di Valle Murcia 6, tel. 065746810, rosetoromacapitale@comune.roma.it.
VILLA D’ESTE
Built for the Cardinal Ippolito D’Este around 1555, these complex renaissance water gardens in Tivoli are among the most famous in the world. Water from the nearby river Aniene is channeled under the town of Tivoli to feed the gardens’ vast range of spectacular fountains, including the celebrated organ fountain. Cascades,
pools, water staircases, grottoes and nymphs are revealed at every turn. The villa has a bar and restaurant on the terrace overlooking the gardens and there is a bookshop. Monday from 2:00 pm to 7:45 pm, last admission 6:45 pm. From Tuesday to Sunday from 8:30 to 19:45, last admission at 18:45. For full visiting times see website. Piazza Trento 5, Tivoli, tel. 199766166, www.villadestetivoli.info.
ARTandSEEK
English-language cultural workshops and visits to museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforkids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandseekforkids.com.
Bioparco
Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and o ers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it.
Bowling Silvestri
is sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.
ere are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com.
Casa del Parco
Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com.
Casina di Ra aello
Play centre in Villa Borghese o ering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Ra aello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadira aello.it.
UK NATIONAL SETTLED IN ITALY BEFORE 1
JANUARY 2021?
Make sure your residency in Italy is easily recognised. Request your new Carta di Soggiorno Elettronica from your local Questura as soon as possible. And don’t get confused…it isn’t the same thing as your electronic ID card.
Find out more on gov.uk/livinginitaly
Cinecittà World
is 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special e ects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it.
Climbing
Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, urs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473.
Explora
e 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it.
Go-karting
Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it.
Gymboree
is children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, o ering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it.
Hortis Urbis
Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it.
Il Nido
Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.
Luneur
Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it.
Rainbow Magicland
e 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it.
Time Elevator
A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. e time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it.
Zoomarine is amusement and aquatic park outside Rome o ers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.
ROME'S MAJOR MUSEUMS
IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS DETAILS. IN SOME CASES RESERVATIONS ARE REQUIRED.
VATICAN MUSEUMS
Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00.
Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.
Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.
STATE MUSEUMS
Baths of Diocletian
Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.
Borghese Museum
Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.
Castel S. Angelo Museum
Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine
Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30.
Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.
Crypta Balbi
Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.
Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia
Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.
Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna
Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.
MAXXI
Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.
Palazzo Corsini
Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.
Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale
Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.
Palazzo Altemps
Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.
Palazzo Barberini
Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme
Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.
Villa Farnesina
Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.
CITY MUSEUMS
Centrale Montemartini
Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.
Capitoline Museums
Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.
Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna
Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.
MACRO
Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.
MATTATOIO
Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.
Museo Barracco
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.
Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi
Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.
Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets
Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
Museo Canonica
Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).
Museo Napoleonico
Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.
PRIVATE MUSEUMS
Casa di Goethe
Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.
Chiostro Del Bramante
Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.
Doria Pamphilj Gallery
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.
Galleria Colonna
Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.
Giorgio de Chirico House Museum
Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, rst Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.
Keats-Shelley House
Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.
Museo storico della Liberazione
Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.
Palazzo Merulana
Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.
ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY
ART GALLERIES
1/9 Unosunove
1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.
A.A.M. Architettura
Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www. -maam.it.
Contemporary Cluster
Multidisciplinary venue devoted to visual art, design, architecture and fashion design at Palazzo Brancaccio. Via Merulana 248, tel. 0631709949, www.contemporarycluster.com.
C.R.E.T.A.
Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Del ni, Via dei Del ni 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.
Dorothy Circus Gallery
Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.
Ex Elettrofonica
This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.
Fondazione Memmo
Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespeci c exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.
Fondazione Pasti cio Cerere
This non-pro t foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pasti ciocerere.com.
Fondazione Volume!
The Volume Foundation exhibits works created speci cally for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.
Franz Paludetto
Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.
Frutta
This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.
Gagosian Gallery
The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.
GALLA
Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at a ordable prices by artists working in various elds. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.
Galleria Alessandro Bonomo
Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.
Galleria Valentina Bonomo
Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works speci cally for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.
Galleria Frammenti D’Arte
Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.
Galleria Lorcan O’Neill
High-pro le international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.
Galleria della Tartaruga
Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.
Galleria Il Segno
Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.
Galleria Mucciaccia
Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.
Galleria Russo
This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.
Galleria Varsi
A dynamic gallery promoting street culture and contemporary art movements. Via di A ogalasino 34, www.galleriavarsi.it.
Gavin Brown's Enterprise
New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.
Il Ponte Contemporanea
Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of di erent generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.
La Nuova Pesa
Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.
MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea
Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.
Magazzino d’Arte Moderna
Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.
Monitor
This contemporary art gallery o ers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.
Nero Gallery
Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.
Nomas Foundation
Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.
Operativa Arte Contemporanea
A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.
Pian de Giullari
Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.
Plus Arte Puls
Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.
Sala 1
This internationally known non-pro t contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.
S.T. Foto libreria galleria
Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.
Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri
The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.
T293
The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.
The Gallery Apart
This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.
TraleVolte
Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.
Von Buren Contemporary
Rome-based gallery specialising in a ordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via Giulia 13, tel. 3351633518, www.vonburencontemporary.com.
Wunderkammern
This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.
Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin
Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria o ers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.
where to go in Rome WHAT’S ON
Infinity exhibition by Michelangelo Pistoletto at Chiostro del Bramante. See page 26.EXHIBITIONS
MICHELANGELO PISTOLETTO: INFINITY 18 MARCH-15 OCT
Chiostro del Bramanate hosts an exhibition dedicated to Michelangelo Pistoletto, one of the main representatives of the Italian Arte Povera movement. The show serves as a retrospective spanning the 60-year career of the Italian painter and action artist who turns 90 this year. Infinity follows the successful run of collective shows Love, Enjoy, Dream and Crazy, and will once again be curated by Danilo Eccher who describes it as “a group exhibition by a single artist”. As suggested by its title, the exhibition proposes “an infinite number of ways of making art, an infinite number of ways of seeing, of changing perspective, of reading reality”, according to Chiostro del Bramante. Infinity comprises around 50 works and four large site-specific installations, dating from 1966 to 2023, including his celebrated Venere degli Stracci (Venus of the rags) and his mirror paintings. See cover of this edition. Chiostro del Bramante, Arco della Pace 5, www.chiostrodelbramante. it.
L’IMMAGINE SOVRANA: URBANO VIII E I BARBERINI
18 MARCH-30 JULY
On the 400th anniversary of the election to the papal throne of Urban VIII, Palazzo Barberini dedicates a major exhibition to the longest and most representative pontificate of the 17th century (1623-1644). The exhibition celebrates the cultural and political profile of the pope - born Maffeo Barberini in 1568 - who had a profound impact on philosophical thought, scientific knowledge and the arts of the 17th century. The exhibition highlights how the pontiff, together with his nephews Cardinals Francesco and Antonio and Prince Taddeo
Barberini, “tenaciously pursued an ambitious political-cultural project, which pervaded all areas of knowledge and artistic and cultural production”, according
to the show’s organisers. A great patron of the arts, Urban VIII left an indelible stamp on Rome, promoting colossal undertakings such as the canopy of St Peter’s,
designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, or the fresco by Pietro da Cortona in Palazzo Barberini. The exhibition reunites 80 works from the museum’s collection with 40 pieces from the original Barberini collection dispersed in major museums around the world. The show includes important works by Bernini, Caravaggio, Poussin, Sacchi and some of the spectacular tapestries produced by the Barberini Arazzeria. Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, www.barberinicorsini. org. Photo Alberto Novelli.
URBAN ROOTS
16 MARCH-15 APRIL
Wunderkammern stages an exhibition featuring some of the Italian and international artists who have contributed to the creation of the most significant works of urban art in recent years. The participating artists include Blek Le Rat, D*Face, JonOne, Shepard Fairey, 2501, Sten Lex and Tellas, and many of the works on display have never been shown in Rome before. Wunderkammern, Via Giulia 180, www.wunderkammern.net.
GIUSEPPE PENONE: UNIVERSAL GESTURES
14 MARCH-28 MAY
Galleria Borghese - home to masterpieces by Bernini, Canova and Caravaggio - will present the works of acclaimed contemporary Italian sculptor Giuseppe Penone in a major new exhibition including more than 30 works created by the artist between the 1970s and the early 2000s. Penone, 75, is
associated with the Arte Povera movement and is known for his works that engage with poetry, nature and time using materials ranging from terracotta to iron. The exhibition, curated by Francesco Stocchi and sponsored by fashion house Fendi, involves the rooms of Galleria Borghese as well as its Gardens. The exhibition aims to investigate “the representation of nature in relation to the time of a historical past”, states Stocchi, describing it as “A dialogue of ideas and materials, in relation to a confrontation of forms and symbols, expressing all the vitality of human and plant nature.” In 2017 Fendi unveiled a permanent artwork by Penone outside its flagship store in Largo Goldini, just off Rome’s central Via del Corso, as a gift to the city. Galleria Borghese, Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5, www. galleriaborghese.beniculturali.it.
PIETRO RUFFO: THE PLANETARY GARDEN
14 MARCH-23 APRIL
Rome’s Galleria Lorcan O’Neill presents The Planetary Garden, an exhibition by contemporary Roman artist Pietro Ruffo. The exhibition is described by the gallery as a reflection by Ruff on human evolution and our interactions with our planet. “With references to ancient forgotten cities overgrown with vines, classical Rome, and Piranesian architecture, Ruffo creates with his distinctive cut-out techniques multi-layered works which speak of the eternal power of nature throughout the geological eras”, reads a statement from the gallery. Galleria Lorcan O’Neill, Vicolo de’ Catinari 3, www. lorcanoneill.com.
THE IRIS AND THE PUMPKIN 26 JAN-21 APRIL
The Japanese Cultural Institute celebrates its 60th anniversary in Rome with an exhibition of 24 works by some of Japan’s most celebrated artists. The exhibition is centred around two works –Iris by Yamaguchi Hōshun and Pumpkin by Kusama Yayoi –illustrating the cultural activity of the institute over the past six decades. Accompanied by archive photographs and documents, the show features works by artists
including Munakata Shikō, Ikeda Masuo, Dōmoto Inshō, Yokoo Tadanori, Lee U Fan, Teshigahara Sōfu and Kodama Kibō. Free entry, for visiting details see website. Istituto Giapponese di Cultura, Via Antonio Gramsci 74, www.jfroma.it.
LA ROMA DELLA REPUBBLICA
13 JAN-24 SEPT
The Capitoline Museums presents an exhibition of Roman artefacts from the fifth century BC to the middle of the first century BC. Through a series of archaeological themes and contexts, the exhibition in Palazzo Cafarelli brings to life the characters and transformations of Roman society over the course of five centuries, from the birth of the republic to the creation of the empire. The roughly 1,800 artefacts on display - made from terracotta, ceramics, bronze and stone - mostly come from municipal collections and many of them are usually hidden away in storage. Piazzale Caffarelli, www.museocapitolini.org.
BOB DYLAN: RETROSPECTRUM
16 DEC-30 APRIL
Rome’s MAXXI presents an exhibition of visual art by veteran singer-songwriter Bob Dylan. Titled Retrospectrum, the show features Dylan’s oil paintings, acrylics, watercolours, ink drawings, pastel and charcoal works and a series of iron sculptures. Hailed as “the first European monographic exhibition to explore Dylan’s expansive visual oeuvre”, the show is divided into seven themed sections: Early Works,
The Beaten Path, Drawn Blank, New Orleans, Ironworks, Mondo Scripto, and Deep Focus. Organisers say the exhibition marks Dylan’s life-long journey of creating visual art, documenting the transformation of the sources and styles that have inspired and influenced him over the decades. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4, www.maxxi.art.
ROMA MEDIEVALE
21 OCT-16 APRIL
An exhibition at Palazzo Braschi offers the chance to “rediscover the lost face of Rome” between the sixth and 14th centuries, exploring the city’s pivotal role in Christian and Mediaeval Europe. Divided into nine sections, the exhibition aims to raise awareness of Rome in the Middle Ages, through its churches and palaces as well as daily life. There are more than 160 works on display including mosaics, frescoes and statues, from Roman public collections, churches and prestigious institutions such as the Vatican Museums. Organisers say the exhibition will also examine the rich patronage of popes and cardinals, the activity of artists and workshops, and the city’s fascination as “an essential pilgrimage destination even for kings and emperors.” Museo di Roma Palazzo Braschi, Piazza Navona 2, www.museodiroma.it.
VAN GOGH
8 OCT-7 MAY
Palazzo Bonaparte in the centre of Rome stages a major show of Van Gogh paintings. The exhibition comprises 50 works including a
celebrated self portrait of the artist from 1887, three years before his death. All the works on display are from the Kröller Müller Museum in Otterlo in the Netherlands. The exhibition makes reference to the places where Van Gogh stayed, with a particular focus on the artist’s time in Paris. Alongside his celebrated self portrait, the exhibition includes The sower (June 1888), The hospital garden in SaintRémy (1889), The Ravine (1889) and Sorrowing old man (1890). Located in Piazza Venezia, the 17th-century Palazzo Bonaparte is best known as the home of Maria Letizia Ramolino, Napoleon’s mother, who watched the world go by from the building’s green balcony from 1818 until her death in 1836. www. mostrepalazzobonaparte.it.
CLASSICAL
ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA
THE SONG OF THE EARTH
1 APRIL
Tugan Sokhiev conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra with mezzosoprano Alice Coote and tenor Russell Thomas performing Haydn Symphony No. 104 “London” and Mahler Das Lied von der Erde. 18.00, Sala S. Cecilia.
GRIGORY SOKOLOV
3 APRIL
Pianist Grigory Sokolov performs music by Purcell and Mozart. 20.30, Sala Sinopoli.
GLORIA! FABIO BIONDI
6-8 APRIL
Fabio Biondi conducts the orchestra and chorus of the Accademia Nazionale di S. Cecilia, with soprano Marie Lys and contralto Lucia Cirillo, performing Vivaldi’s Gloria. 6 April 19.30, 7 April 20.30, 8 April 18.00. All concerts in Sala S. Cecilia.
THE SHADOW OF THE TYRANT
13-15 APRIL
Sir Antonio Pappano conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra, with soprano Asmik Grigorian, in The Shadow of the Tyrant, Ambrosini Dosàna nóva
OPERA
TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA
ADAM’S PASSION
1 APRIL
This music theatre piece by Robert Wilson with the music of Arvo Pärt is based on the biblical story of the fall of Adam and is described as a
world premiere – new commission by Accademia di S. Cecilia, R. Strauss Vier letzte Lieder, and Šostakóvič Symphony No. 10. 13 April 19.30, 14 April 20.30, 15 April 18.00.
FAMILY CONCERT
16 APRIL
This Family Concert includes R. Strauss Sextet op. 85 from the opera Capriccio and Cajkovskji “Souvenir de Florence” op. 70. aimed at a broad audience particularly young people and preceded by “downto-earth introductory chats that serve as straightforward, helpful listening guides.” Concerts last an hour at most, without intermission. Introduction at 11.30, concert 12.00. Sala S. Cecilia.
MAURIZIO POLLINI
17 APRIL
Pianist Maurizio Pollini performs music by Schönberg, Nono and Chopin. 20.30. Sala S. Cecilia.
BOHEMIAN LEGENDS AND PRAYERS
20-22 APRIL
Conductor Jakub Hrůša conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra and choir, with soprano Kateřina Kněžíková, tenor Nicky Spence and bass Vito Priante, performing music by Dvořák and Janáček. 20 April 19.30. 21 April 20.30. 22 April 18.00. All concerts in Sala S. Cecilia.
MOLIERE IN MUSIC
27-29 APRIL
Antonello Manacorda conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra, with Alessandro Carbonare on clarinet, performing music by Strauss, Brahms/Berio and Schubert. 27 April 19.30. 28 April 20.30. 29 April 18.00. All concerts in Sala S. Cecilia.
Concerts take place in the Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30. For full details of tickets and performance times see www.santacecilia.it.
journey into the worlds of sound, light, visual art and performance. Adam’s Passion will have its Italian premiere at the Nuvola Convention Centre in Rome’s EUR district, with Tõnu Kaljuste conducting the orchestra and chorus of Teatro dell’Opera di Roma. For details see website www.operaroma.it.
IL TABARRO / IL CASTELLO DEL PRINCIPE BARBABLU’ 6,
APRIL
Three-year project in collaboration
with the Puccini Festival of Torre del Lago on the occasion of the centenary of the composer Giacomo Puccini’s death. Michele Mariotti conducts and Johannes Erath directs Il tabarro (The Cloak), an opera in one act by Puccini to an Italian libretto by Giuseppe Adami, and Duke Bluebeard’s Castle, a oneact Symbolist opera by composer Béla Bartók. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, www.operaroma.it.
ANZAC DAY 2023
War Cemetery in Rome. April Facebook pages.
New Zealanders and Australians in Rome will commemorate ANZAC Day with a memorial service.
will commemorate The on the
The service will take place at the
ROME WAR CEMETERY
VIA NICOLA ZABAGLIA (PIRAMIDE)
on Tuesday 25 April at 9.00 a.m and will be followed by a morning tea on the grounds. For security purposes an RSVP is mandatory for those wishing to attend the reception.
EVERYONE
RSVP: rome@nzembassy.it or telephone 06 853 7501
CARACALLA FESTIVAL 30 MAY-10 AUG
Teatro dell’Opera di Roma has unveiled a bumper programme for its summer festival among the ancient Roman ruins at the Baths of Caracalla. In addition to opera, the festival will include a range of genres, from symphonic music, dance and theatre to cinema, jazz and pop concerts. The Caracalla Festival programme spans more than 50 evenings from 30 May until 10 August, with new the Teatro del Portico space reserved for cinema, jazz and theatre.
Noting the “extraordinary turnout” of more than 110,000 spectators last year, Rome mayor Roberto Gualtieri said the 2023 festival offers “an even richer and more varied programme for a unique stage in the world such as Caracalla.”
Francesco Giambrone, superintendent of the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, said the aim of this year’s programme is to “create an interdisciplinary festival based on the juxtaposition of genres.” Giambrone also said the festival is “dedicated in many ways to Giuseppe Verdi” amid the nationwide Viva Verdi fund-raising campaign to help the state buy Villa Verdi, the museum and former home of the celebrated Italian opera composer Giuseppe Verdi.
The summer festival kicks off with a series of pop concerts, beginning with Zucchero (30-31 May, 2-4 June); Fiorella Mannoia and Danilo Rea on 1 June; Venditti-De Gregori on 5, 7, 8, 15 June; Andrea Bocelli on 10 June; the Negramaros on 13, 14, 16 June; and Massimo Ranieri on 24 July.
The festival programme will be inaugurated officially however on 23 June with the world premiere of the restored version of Charlie Chaplin’s The Great Dictator with the soundtrack performed live by the Teatro dell’Opera orchestra, conducted by Timothy Brock.
OPERA
The festival celebrates Verdi with two masterpieces: La traviata (21 July-9 Aug) in the 2018 staging by Lorenzo Mariani which sets the Parisian story in the 1960s Dolce Vita era, paying homage to Federico Fellini’s Rome. This is followed by Rigoletto (3-10 Aug) in the staging by Damiano Michieletto which sets it in an imaginary criminal world.
DANCE
The dance proposal opens with Strictly Gershwin (1-4 July) described as “a joyful and overwhelming musical” featuring étoiles, principal dancers, soloists and the Ballet of the Rome Opera, directed by Eleonora Abbagnato. The show, a tribute to George Gershwin and his music by choreographer and director Derek Deane, will be conducted by Michael England with Alessandro Taverna on piano.
The summer programme at the Baths of Caracalla would not be complete without Roberto Bolle and Friends, over three nights (1113 July), with the Gran Gala starring the guest stars Maia Makhateli and Jacopo Tissi accompanied by many others.
SYMPHONY
The symphonic proposal is represented by a masterpiece: the Symphony n. 9 by Beethoven which will be conducted on 9 July by Myung-Whun Chung, with the Teatro dell’Opera orchestra and chorus, directed by Ciro Visco, and
the solo voices of Olga Bezsmertna, Sara Mingardo, Giovanni Sala and Roberto Tagliavini.
THEATRE
There will be a theatrical performance: The glasses of Šostakovič by Valerio Cappelli, who is also the director, on 5-6 July, dedicated to the great Russian composer, played by Moni Ovadia, with projections and live music.
CINEMA
The film festival is also dedicated to Verdi, which brings to light littleknown films inspired by the figure and works of the great composer, from 26 June to 3 July.
JAZZ
For jazz fans, the Stefano Di Battista Quartet performs on 31 July, with “Morricone stories jazz”; three aperitif-concerts designed to be followed also by spectators of the opera on stage the same evening, on 2, 4 and 6 August; and an evening with the Cutello Brothers entitled “New generation”, on 7 August.
PHOTO EXHIBITION
The Baths of Caracalla pays tribute to the great photographer Letizia Battaglia through an exhibition of photographs and documents from the start of her career between Milan and Palermo up to her final work before her death last year.
For full details see Teatro dell’Opera website, www.operaroma.it.
BILLY ELLIOT IL MUSICAL FROM 13 APRIL
Rome’s Teatro Sistina stages an Italian-language production of Billy Elliot the Musical, starting from 13 April, with shows at 20.30 and weekend matinees at 16.00. Based on Stephen Daldry’s hit 2000 movie of the same name, the coming-of-age stage musical with music by Elton John tells the story of Billy, a boy who pursues his love for ballet against all the odds. Directed by Massimo Romeo Piparo, the Rome production stars
Giulio Scarpati as Billy’s father and Rossella Brescia as the boy’s dance teacher. Via Sistina 129, www.ilsistina.it.
CIRQUE DU SOLEIL: KURIOS –CABINET OF CURIOSITIES
21 MARCH-29 APRIL
The famed Canadian circus company Cirque du Soleil stages its new blockbuster Kurios - Cabinet of Curiosities at Tor di Quinto in Rome. The show revolves around a scientist who creates a machine
that leads to a place “where the craziest ideas and the grandest dreams lie waiting”, taking the audience on an adventure where “the visible becomes invisible, perspectives are transformed, and the world is literally turned upside down.” Described as an ingenious mix of unusual curiosities and acrobatic feats, the family-friendly show will move to Milan after Rome from 10 May to 25 June. For full details including tickets see Cirque du Soleil website, www. cirquedusoleil.com.
PANTHEON TO CHARGE VISITORS €5 ENTRY FEE
Visiting the Pantheon in Rome will no longer be free to tourists who will be required to pay a €5 entry fee, following an agreement reached between Italy's culture ministry and church authorities. Access to the landmark, which attracted a record 9.3 million visitors in 2019, will remain free to residents of Rome, people attending religious services and the under-18s, while visitors under 25 will pay an entry fee of €2.
Under the agreement, proceeds from the ticket sales will be divided between the culture ministry, which will take 70 per cent, with the remaining 30 per cent going to the diocese of Rome. The culture ministry will bear the costs of "ordinary and extraordinary maintenance and cleaning" at the Pantheon, while the diocese of Rome will use the resources for "charitable and cultural activities and for the maintenance, conservation and restoration of stateowned churches" in the city. The move comes after Italy’s new right-wing culture minister Gennaro Sangiuliano revived a contentious plan by his centre-left predecessor Dario Franceschini to start charging people to visit the Pantheon. The proposal had been at an advanced stage five years ago before being shelved in 2018, with a planned admission fee of €2. The entry fee system was due to come into effect in May 2018 but was scrapped by the then culture minister Alberto Bonisoli of the populist Movimento 5 Stelle. Until now the Pantheon has been free to visit, as a place of worship, in line with the custom of the Rome vicariate
which does not charge entry fees for churches. In a statement on the culture ministry website, Sangiuliano hailed the development as being "based on common sense", with a "modest ticket charge for the most visited cultural site in Italy." Sangiuliano recently cited admission prices at other European cultural landmarks including the Musèe de l’Armèe in Paris where visitors are charged €14 to visit the tomb of Napoleon, or Westminster Abbey in London which has an entry fee of £27.
BRIDGET RILEY CREATES CEILING PAINTING FOR BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME
The British School at Rome (BSR) will unveil the first ceiling painting by Bridget Riley, the celebrated English artist known for her op art paintings, on 4 May. Riley, 91, designed the large-scale work using her so-called Egyptian palette whose colours include turquoise, blue, red, yellow, green, black and white.
Commissioned by the BSR, the painting will cover four barrel vaults of the ceiling in the foyer of the neoclassical building which was designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens and is located opposite Villa Borghese in the city's Valle Giulia area. Britain’s leading fine arts and humanities research institute abroad, the BSR awards residential scholarships and fellowships to artists and scholars to research and develop their work in its multidisciplinary community. In a statement, Riley thanked the BSR for the invitation to paint the ceiling, describing it as "the beginning of an exhilarating visual chase". The artist stated: "...I pursued this perceptual adventure and played my ‘colour acoustics’ with great delight. Looking up, the colour of the skies offers a glimpse of nature in her most promising and serene mood.”
Mark Getty, chair of the BSR Council, said Riley's ceiling painting "will adorn our entrance for decades to come, and pronounce clearly the strong relationship which exists between British and Commonwealth artists and thinkers, and the Roman and Italian world.”
Andy DevaneThe following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city There are also concerts in many of the churches and sometimes in the museums.
Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it
Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com
Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct
Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct
Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct
Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it
Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct
Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com
Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it
MUSIC THE A TRE CINEMA VENUES
TRE MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA
classical cinema
RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it
Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com
Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com
RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it
Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are at Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others are at the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Roma Tre, Via Ostienze 234, www.r30.org
Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com
cinema
The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for weekly updates.
Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767
The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for weekly updates.
Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361
Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767
There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome.
Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are at Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others are at the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Roma Tre, Via Ostienze 234, www.r30.org
All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org
There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome.
All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org
Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com
Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7
Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com
Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361
Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it
Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 068553485
Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it
Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 068553485
Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com
Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825
Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com
Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230
Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825
Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361
Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230
St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it
Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7
S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona
St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it
S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com
Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361
Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068
Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116
Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068
Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361
Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116
Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111
Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361
Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111
Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111
Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111
Teatro Costanzi, Teatro Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, ww
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it
dance opera
Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it
dance opera
Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it
rock pop
rock pop
Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.
Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it
Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com
Live Alcazar, Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com
Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com
Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org
Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it
Atlantico, Viale dell’Oceano Atlantico 271d, tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it
Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org
Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com
Atlantico, Viale dell’Oceano Atlantico 271d, tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it
Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it
Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www auditorium.com
Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it
Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net
Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it
Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net
Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it
Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it
Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it
Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it
Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it
Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net
Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net
Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it
Live Alcazar, Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com
PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it
Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it
PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it
Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com
Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com
Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com
Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com
Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com
Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it
Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, www.teatrosangenesio.it
Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 www.teatrosangenesio.it
Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it
Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it
Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.teatrovascello.it
Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel. 065898031, www.teatrovascello.it
Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it
Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it
FETTINE PANATE CON CIPOLLA ROSSA E SALVIA
Usually served hot, fettine panate are thin slices of beef which are dipped in egg and breadcrumbs and fried until golden. This recipe gives them a summery twist and turns them into almost a kind of salad by cutting them into strips and mixing them with red onion, fresh sage leaves and a zing of vinegar, all gently cooked together to encourage the avours to blend. Easy to make in advance and store in the fridge, they bene t hugely from a rest before eating so this recipe is a brilliant addition to bu ets or picnics.
When buying the beef look for thin slices, the best are called 'girello' in Italian. If they are a little thick you can tenderise them by hitting them with a meat hammer, rolling pin or even the bottom of a tumbler or glass. The process of coating the slices can be messy but taking the time to make sure they have a good covering of breadcrumbs will help to give the nished dish a bit of bite.
For another variation, the fried fettine panate can also be left whole, topped with a little tomato passata and a slice of mozzarella (or mozzarella and mushrooms) and baked in the oven at 180°C for a few minutes until the mozzarella has melted before serving them hot as a second course.
Ingredients
Serves 4
4 thin slices of beef (approx 500g) Flour
4 eggs, beaten Fine breadcrumbs
1 lt vegetable oil, for frying
3 red onions, roughly sliced
25 fresh sage leaves
Extra virgin olive oil
Half a glass of white wine vinegar Salt Pepper
Prepare the ingredients for the coating; put a generous amount of our in a large bowl, season with salt and pepper and mix well. Crack the eggs into a separate bowl and beat well with a fork or hand whisk. Pour breadcrumbs into a wide dish, tray or board.
Take the rst slice of beef and coat it well in our then dip it on both sides rst in the egg and then in the breadcrumbs. Push the meat into the breadcrumbs with your ngers to ensure it is well-covered. Set aside and repeat the process with the remaining slices.
Heat the vegetable oil in a wide saucepan or large frying pan until it is boiling. Test by sticking a wooden toothpick into the oil, if small bubbles form around the toothpick the oil is ready. Carefully place the beef slices into the oil (you may have to do this one or two pieces at a time depending on the size of your pan) and fry for about 2 minutes, turning over once, until they are golden and crunchy.
Set the slices aside on a tray covered with kitchen paper to drain, sprinkle with salt and leave to cool.
Once the slices have cooled down, use scissors to cut them into strips about 2cm x 5cm.
In a large frying pan heat a good splash of olive oil and add the chopped red onion. Cook for a couple of minutes until it is just starting to soften then add the sage leaves, tearing any large ones in half. Cook for a minute and then add the beef strips and heat through.
Add the vinegar and cook everything together for another minute to combine the avours.
Tip into a bowl and leave to cool down, then cover and place in the refrigerator until serving.
The best aperitivo in Flaminio
Flaminio, a neighbourhood only a stone’s throw from the city centre, is now home to a whole host of cocktail and aperitivo bars. You can take part in the ‘spritzmania’ or opt for a more traditional cocktail – there’s something for everyone. Food-wise you’ll find fresh fish, international cuisine, or even the finest cheese and charcuterie boards. We’ve selected five of the best bars for pre- or post-dinner, from new openings to old favourites.
ENOTECA MOSTÒ
Run by passionate and skilled sommelier Ciro Borriello, at Enoteca Mostò you’ll be advised on the perfect wine to suit your palate, with a brilliant selection of natural and French wines in particular. As for the food, there isn't a huge choice but what is on offer is fantastic quality. Aperitivo begins from 18.30 and you can choose a glass of either Franciacorta Brut Vezzoli (€7) or Particella 928 Cantina del Barone (€8) accompanied by a plate of tapas (€6) and artisan sausage. You can also order from the main menu and we highly recommend the desserts: millefeuille (€7) and white chocolate cheesecake with almond, mango and lime crumble (€7). Mon closed.
APOTECA
Facing on to Piazza Melozzo da Forlì, Apoteca is the perfect spot for an aperitivo pre-theatre or before heading to the stadium. There are seats at the bar where you can admire the large selection of craft beers. If you don’t fancy a beer there are also cocktails, mocktails and wine served by the glass. At aperitivo hour you can choose from a charcuterie (€10) or cheese board (€12), or even meat balls (€7), or the apotecaburger (€14). Apoteca serves cocktails both pre and post dinner.
METROPOLITA
One of the most recent bar openings in Flamminio, Metropolita is located right in front of the Ponte della Musica and is open from 18.00 until 02.00 (or until 17.00 on Sunday). You can enjoy either a cocktail or a glass of
wine accompanied by a selection of antipasti from the kitchen. The barmen serve both cocktails from all over the world, like the London Tequila (€11), as well as the usual classics (from €6-8). If you feel like something else to eat there’s also hummus served with pane carasau (Sardinian flat bread) (€6) or a platter of Italian and French cheeses (€18). The Metropolita can seat 65 people over its three floors. Open every day except Mondays.
DILISCANDO
This is the new fish restaurant in the Flaminio neighbourhood. The name, which means ‘filleting’, and the interiors create a seaside feel. Every day from 18.00 you can enjoy a glass of wine (from €5) and try some delicious fish dishes. On Thursdays the chef prepares five tasting plates to accompany five of the wines, and each week the selection is different.
TREE BAR
Located in the garden of Piazzale Manila, Tree Bar is a very popular place, especially with young people. Live music, competitions and the huge seating area outside make it a fun place to hang out. On Mondays there is an aperitivo buffet. You can also enjoy wine, beer or a cocktail with a cheese or meat board (€12 or €10) and then if you’re still peckish choose the dish of the day or from the main menu. We also highly recommend their homemade desserts (from €6-8) and their selection of spirits. Open daily from 18.30 to 01.30.
Enoteca Mostò, Viale Pinturicchio 32, tel. 3922579616.
Apoteca, Piazza Melozzo da Forlì 15, tel. 3662511733.
Metropolita, Piazza Gentile da Fabbriano 2, tel. 063240249.
Diliscando, Viale del Vignola 7, tel. 0689131376.
Tree bar, Via Flaminia 226, tel. 0632652754.
Associations
American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org
American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org
Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com
Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com
Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli
Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net
Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com
Daughters of the American Revolution
Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com
Books
The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.
Almost Corner Bookshop
Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942
Anglo American Bookshop
Via delle Vite 27, tel. 066795222
Bibliothèque Centre Culturel
Saint-Louis de France (French)
Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it
La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French)
Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com
Libreria Feltrinelli International
Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it
Religious
All Saints’ Anglican Church
Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881
Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30
Anglican Centre
Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com
Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org
Bible Baptist Church
Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00
Christian Science Services
Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425
Church of All Nations
Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464
Church of Sweden
Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)
International Women’s Club of Rome
tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it
Irish Club of Rome
irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org
Luncheon Club of Rome
tel. 3338466820
Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums
tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org
Professional Woman’s Association
www.pwarome.org
United Nations Women’s Guild
tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com
Welcome Neighbor
tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com
Libreria Quattro Fontane (international)
Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484
Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish)
Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it
Open Door Bookshop
(second hand books English, French, German, Italian)
Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com
Otherwise
Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com
Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it
International Central Gospel Church
Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695
International Christian Fellowship
Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00
Jewish Community
Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061
Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas
Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761
Lutheran Church
Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German)
Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church
Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30
Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic)
Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00
Roma Baptist Church
Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service
10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese)
Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara
Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091
Rome International Church
Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org
Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico)
Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258
St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church
Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00
St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic)
Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00
Support groups
Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com
Archè
(HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it
Associazione Centro Astalli
(Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306
Associazione Ryder Italia
(Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it
Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it
Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily
Caritas foreigners’ support centre
Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554
Caritas hostel
Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235
Caritas legal assistance
Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369
Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680
Transport
• Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it
• Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it
• Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it
• Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994
• Traffic info tel. 1518
• Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it
St Isidore College (Roman Catholic)
Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00
St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org
Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30
St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal)
Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish)
St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic)
Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30
Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00
Comunità di S. Egidio
Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234
Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen
Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027
Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre
St Paul’s within-the-Walls
Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339
Mason Perkins Deafness Fund
(Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it
Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772
Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza)
Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri”
Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351
Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104
The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022
Chiamaroma
24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606
Emergency numbers
• Ambulance tel. 118
• Carabinieri tel. 112
• Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336
• Fire brigade tel. 115
• Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999
• Police tel. 113
• Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355