Wanted in Rome - February 2022 by Wanted in Rome

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THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

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ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS

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CONT

EDITORIALS Mary Wilsey

8. VILLA AURORA: ROME'S SALE OF THE CENTURY Andy Devane

12. WHY STUDENTS

CHOOSE an AMERICAN UNIVERSITY in ROME Scott Sprenger

14. 16. 18. 20. 22. 40. 45. 46. 50.

WHAT'S ON

28. 32. 32. 36.

LAKES AROUND ROME ROME FOR children STREET ART guide MUSEUMS ART GALLERIES CULTURAL VENUES RECIPE puntarella rossa USEFUL NUMBERS

DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 PROGETTO GRAFICO: Dali Studio Srl IMPAGINAZIONE: Simona Castellari STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 31/01/2022

EXHIBITIONS OPERA Classical Dance

CURRENTLY SUSPENDED

THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 14, Numero 2 FEBRUARY 2022 | € 2,00

4. THE SHELLEYS IN ROME

MISCELLANY

Copies are on sale at: Newsstands in Rome Anglo American Bookstore, Via della Vite 102 Wanted in Rome, Via di Monserrato 49 Wanted in Rome Via di Monserrato 49 - tel. 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com editorial@wantedinrome.com www.wantedinrome.com www.wantedinmilan.com

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Ian Davenport, Poured Staircase, 2021 Courtesy the artist. Artwork commissioned and produced by DART Chiostro del Bramante, Roma. For exhibition details see page 28.

ENTS 4

THE SHELLEYS IN ROME

WHY STUDENTS CHOOSE an AMERICAN UNIVERSITY in ROME

opera

36 dance

Literature

THE SHELLEYS IN ROME THE KEATS-SHELLEY HOUSE IN ROME MARKS 200TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE DROWNING OF PERCY BYSSHE SHELLEY Mary Wilsey

he three months that Percy and Mary Shelley and Mary's half sister Claire Clairmont spent in Rome between March and June 1819 started happily but ended in the tragic and sudden death of William, Percy and Mary’s son, on 7 June. The three of them buried the three-year-old Willmouse in the Non-Catholic Cemetery and then fled the city. Percy was never to return. Just over three years later, after drowning off the coast of Lerici in Tuscany on 8 July 1822, his ashes were brought back to Rome to be buried in the same cemetery.

This year the Keats-Shelley House is marking the 200th anniversary of the poet's death with a series of events in Rome, Naples, Lerici and the United Kingdom. One of the first events was a video made for the Keats-Shelley House in Rome by the production company 313. It is now showing on YouTube* and the museum hopes to get permission from the Comune di Roma to screen it on the façade of the House in Piazza di Spagna on 19 February from 18.30-20.00. The Shelleys arrived in Rome after a difficult and emotionally draining time in Naples. Percy

Joseph Severn's portrait of Shelley at the Baths of Caracalla, from the Keats-Shelley House collection.

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and Claire had been ill, but the real reason for the tension was the birth of a baby girl, Elena Adelaide, who Percy registered as his and Mary's. There is little question that Percy was the father, but Mary was certainly not the mother. Why then did she allow her name to be used in the registration? This mystery has never been solved. Some gossip at the time, especially coming from Lord Byron's entourage, pointed the finger at Claire. But the Shelleys maintained that Elena was the daughter of their servant Elize. Whatever the truth of the matter, Percy always intended to return to Naples to collect Elena from her foster parents. But tragically Elena died on 9 June 1820 before Percy was able to return to Naples. It is doubtful that if Claire had been the mother she would have shown so little emotional interest in the child, especially as she had recently given her daughter, Allegra, over to the guardianship of the father, Lord Byron, and clearly regretted the decision. The Shelleys may have fled Naples in February 1819 to get away from this drama. Certainly their time in Rome, until the unexpected death of William in June the same year, was relatively peaceful. But above all it inspired three of Shelley's greatest works, Prometheus Unbound, The Cenci and Adonais on the death of Keats. Rome must have seemed like heaven in comparison with the constant travel of the previous year, the tragic death in Venice of Percy and Mary's 18-month-old daughter, Clara, in September 1818, followed by the upsetting events in Naples at the end of that same year. What must have made the Rome interlude even happier was that Mary was once again pregnant, with Percy Florence, their only child to survive, who was born in Florence at the end of 1819. One of Shelley's main inspirations in Rome was the Baths of Caracalla, as we know not only from his letters, and from the preface to Prometheus Unbound, but also from the famous 1845 painting by Joseph Severn of Percy sitting in the Baths of Caracalla. Commissioned by Mary Shelley long after his death, it now hangs in the Keats-Shelley House. Shelley describes his feelings for the Baths of Caracalla in the preface to Prometheus Unbound: "This Poem was chiefly written upon the mountainous ruins of the Baths of Caracalla, among the flowery glades, and thickets of

Shelley's grave at the Non-Catholic Cemetery in Rome.

odiferous blossoming trees, which are extending in ever-winding labyrinths upon its immense platforms and dizzy arches suspended in the air. The bright blue sky of Rome, and the effect of the vigorous awakening of spring in that divinest climate, and the new life with which it drenches the spirits even to intoxication, were the inspiration of this drama." The influence of the Baths and their importance to his poetry comes out even more clearly in the same preface when he describes what he believes to be the role of the poet. "A poet is a combined product of such internal powers as modify the nature of others, and of such external influences as excite and sustain those powers; he is not one, but both. Every man's mind is, in this respect, modified by all the objects of nature and art; by every work and every suggestion which he ever admitted to act upon his consciousness; it is the mirror upon which all forms are reflected, and in which they compose one form. Poets, not otherwise than philosophers, painters, sculptors and musicians, are, in one sense, the creators, and, in another, the creations, of their age." The second great work inspired by Rome was The Cenci, a drama that has been underrated in the past but perhaps has greater resonance today thanks to its themes of rape, patricide and injustice. Beatrice Cenci, immortalised by the Guido Reni painting now in the Palazzo Barberini collection, was executed on Ponte S. Angelo on 11 September 1599. A plaque was placed on the wall at Via di Monserrato 42 by the Comune di Roma to mark the 400th anniversary of her imprisonment there and her execution on the nearby Ponte S. Angelo. Wanted in Rome • February 2022 | 5

opening into gloomy subterranean chambers, struck me particularly." The final work inspired by Rome was Adonais. Shelley first started writing this in memory of his son when the family moved hurriedly from Rome to Livorno immediately after William's tragic death. But Shelley never managed to finish it to his satisfaction until he heard of the death of Keats, several months after the poet died in Rome in February 1821.

Guido Reni's portrait of Beatrice Cenci at Palazzo Barberini.

Shelley explains his own interest in the story in his preface to the work: "On my arrival at Rome I found that the story of the Cenci was a subject not to be mentioned in Italian society without awakening a deep and breathless interest; and that the feelings of the company never failed to incline to a romantic pity for the wrongs, and a passionate exculpation of the horrible deed to which they urged her, who has been mingled two centuries with the common dust. All ranks of people knew the outlines of this history, and participated in the overwhelming interest which it seems to have the magic of exciting in the human heart. I had a copy of Guido's picture of Beatrice which is preserved in the Colonna Palace, and my servant instantly recognized it as the portrait of La Cenci." And again: "The Cenci Palace is of great extent; and though in part modernized, there yet remains a vast and gloomy pile of feudal architecture in the same state as during the dreadful scenes which are the subject of this tragedy. The Palace is situated in an obscure corner of Rome, near the quarter of the Jews, and from the upper windows you see the immense ruins of Mount Palatine half hidden under their profuse overgrowth of trees. There is a court in one part of the Palace (perhaps that in which Cenci built the Chapel to St Thomas), supported by granite columns and adorned with antique friezes of fine workmanship, and built up, according to the ancient Italian fashion, with balcony over balcony of open-work. One of the gates of the Palace formed of immense stones and leading through a passage, dark and lofty and 6 | February 2022 • Wanted in Rome

From Adonais Go thou to Rome, — at once the Paradise, The grave, the city, and the wilderness; And where its wrecks like shattered mountains rise. And flowering weeds, and fragrant copses dress The bones of Desolation's nakedness Pass, till the spirit of the spot shall lead Thy footsteps to a slope of green access Where, like an infant's smile, over the dead A light of laughing flowers along the grass is spread. And gray walls moulder round, on which dull Time Feeds, like slow fire upon a hoary brand; And one keen pyramid with wedge sublime, Pavilioning the dust of him who planned This refuge for his memory, doth stand Like flame transformed to marble; and beneath, A field is spread, on which a newer band Have pitched in Heaven's smile their camp of death. Welcoming him we lose with scarce extinguished breath. Here pause: these graves are all too young as yet To have outgrown the sorrow which consigned Its charge to each; and if the seal is set, Here, on one fountain of a mourning mind, Break it not thou! too surely shalt thou find Thine own well full, if thou returnest home, Of tears and gall. From the world's bitter wind Seek shelter in the shadow of the tomb. What Adonis is, why fear we to become? Just over a year after writing this, Percy's ashes were brought to the Non-Catholic Cemetery in Rome. Mary's plan was that they should be interred in the same grave as their son William. But in the grave they thought contained the baby's body they found instead the bones of a man. By that time the old cemetery where Keats and baby William were buried had been closed and the new part had just been opened. And this is where Percy's ashes still lie, close to the Aurelian Wall. * https://youtu.be/zQDWebquUyk. For programme of Shelley bicentenary events see Keats-Shelley House website, www.ksh.roma.it.

Culture

VILLA AURORA: ROME'S SALE OF THE CENTURY HISTORIC VILLA WITH CARAVAGGIO MURAL FAILS TO SELL AT AUCTION Andy Devane

he sale of a Roman villa with the world's only Caravaggio ceiling painting, which was put on the market valued at €471 million, has been rescheduled with a reduced price after a court-ordered auction on 18 January failed to attract a single bid. The reserve for the Casino di Villa Boncompagni Ludovisi, better known as Villa Aurora, has been slashed by about 20 per cent to €377 million, with a new online auction set for 7 April. The sale is the result of a bitter inheritance battle following the death in 2018 of Prince Nicolò Boncompagni Ludovisi, whose family has

owned the historic property on Via Lombardia, near Via Veneto, for the last 400 years. The dispute is between the prince's three sons from his first marriage and his third wife, the American-born Princess Rita Boncompagni Ludovisi, 72, who spent much of the last two decades renovating the 2,800-sqm property with her late husband. The prince's sons contest their father's will, which the princess says gives her the right to live in Villa Aurora for the rest of her life, and that if sold, the proceeds would be split between her and her stepsons.

Caravaggio painted the ceiling mural at Villa Aurora in 1597.

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Culture always been privately owned), has been signed by 40,000 people. Much of the property's astronomical price tag is attributed to the Caravaggio mural which was valued by Italian scholar Alessandro Zuccari at €310 million. The oil on plaster work, the only known ceiling painting by the Baroque master, dates to 1597. The allegorical scene featuring Jupiter, Neptune and Pluto was commissioned by the villa's owner prior to the Ludovisi family – Cardinal Francesco Maria Del Monte – for his alchemy laboratory. However the mural was subsequently covered up and was not rediscovered until 1968. Jupiter, accompanied by an eagle, represents sulphur and air; Neptune, with a hippocamp, stands for mercury and water; and Pluto, with the three-headed dog Cerberus, represents salt and earth.

The late Prince Nicolò Boncompagni Ludovisi and his wife Princesss Rita.

After the two parties failed to reach an agreement, the courts ordered that the 11-bedroom villa be put up for auction, with an original estimated value of €471 million. The courts stipulated that whoever purchases the property – protected under Italian cultural heritage laws – must spend a further €11 million on restoration costs. Under Italian law, the government has a 60-day window to exercise its right of first refusal after a sale agreement to a private buyer, however even with the reduced price the state may not be able to afford the property, or wish to set a precedent. In the meantime a petition is underway urging the government to buy Villa Aurora by dipping into Italy's multi-billion National Plan of Recovery and Resilience (PNRR), funded largely by the European Union. The online campaign, calling for the state to "safeguard what is ours" (despite the villa having

The mural, which measures 2.75 metres wide and is located in a camerino or small room on the first floor, depicts Jupiter reaching out to move the celestial sphere in which the sun revolves around the earth. The villa is decorated too with lavish frescoes by the Italian Baroque painter Guercino, including one in the main reception hall of the Roman goddess of dawn, Aurora, which gives the building its name. It is also home to works by Bril, Domenichino, Pomarancio and Viola; a staircase by architect Carlo Maderno who designed the façade of St Peter's; and its gardens include a statue of Pan attributed to Michelangelo. Built in 1570, the villa has been owned since 1621 by the noble Ludovisi family whose descendants include Popes Gregory XIII – who introduced the Gregorian calendar – and Gregory XV. The six-storey building, expanded in 1858, was used originally as the family's hunting lodge. The property was once part of Villa Ludovisi, a 30-hectare country retreat established by Cardinal Del Monte. In the late 19th century the Ludovisi family sold the bulk of the estate during Rome's construction boom, leading to the creation of the upmarket “Ludovisi” district. Wanted in Rome • February 2022 | 9

Culture

The Villa Aurora gardens host a collection of sculptures including one attributed to Michelangelo.

The villa sits in what was once part of the Horti Sallustiani, a grand Roman estate with landscaped gardens, on land originally owned by Julius Caesar.

Henry James admired its rooms and sweeping rooftop views over Rome. But while the villa's past is undeniably rich, what of its future?

Recent surveys commissioned by Princess Rita and her late husband suggests that the ground on which the villa is built is rich in archaeological treasures from the Roman era.

Ahead of January's “auction of the century” the Italian media touted Microsoft founder Bill Gates or the Sultan of Brunei as possible future owners of the unique property.

Over the centuries Villa Aurora has hosted many illustrious figures, from Galileo to Goethe, and was a important destination for visitors on the Grand Tour. In his 1909 memoir Italian Hours,

As the new auction date draws nearer, the question is whether the lower price will tempt a billionaire from abroad or whether the Italian state will step in and turn the villa into a public museum.

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UK NATIONAL SETTLED IN ITALY BEFORE 1 JANUARY 2021? Make sure your residency in Italy is easily recognised. Request your new Carta di Soggiorno Elettronica from your local Questura as soon as possible. And don’t get confused…it isn’t the same thing as your electronic ID card. Find out more on gov.uk/livinginitaly

Education

WHY STUDENTS CHOOSE AN AMERICAN UNIVERSITY IN ROME AUR PRESIDENT OUTLINES THE ADVANTAGES OF AN AMERICAN LIBERAL ARTS UNIVERSITY EDUCATION IN ROME

oung Americans come to study in Rome for many reasons: the reputation of the city as a world heritage centre, the history and archaeology, the art and cuisine, and, above all, Rome’s enchanting beauty. They also come because they want to live and learn in an open, accepting and multicultural environment. And due to the Lazio region’s excellent management of covid-19, we find that many American students also feel safer here in Rome than in the US.

Scott Sprenger The big surprise for me, however, as a relative newcomer to Rome, has been the many local Italians or ex-pat Italian residents who choose The American University of Rome. Our Italian students have obviously grown up knowing the benefits of Italian culture; they enjoy the familiarity and access to Italian universities; yet they choose to study in a fee-paying American university in Italy. Why is that?

Students at The American University of Rome with president Scott Sprenger. Photo Laboratorio Fotografico Corsetti.

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Education Although motivations differ, my conversations with Italian students and parents reveal common threads. One is the international renown or “brand” associated with American higher education. Many Italian students and their families perceive American higher ed to be the best in the world and AUR as a portal into that world. A second reason is our instruction in native-level English and the assumption that strong English skills – and access to an anglophone global network and market – will enhance their career options. A third is the highly interactive instruction and individualised attention associated with Americanstyle teaching and mentorship. It is also widely known that American universities combine theory with practice (co-curriculars, experiential learning) for pragmatic outcomes. Italian students, I should mention, have surprises of their own once they start their studies at an American university. The biggest surprise is the tripartite structure of an American degree, and the sizeable curricular footprint in general education. Whereas in Italy (and everywhere else in the world) students focus almost exclusively on a career specialty, the American system requires a specialty (the “major”), a set of electives and “general education” coursework. Why, students wonder, must they take general education courses if they want to get a degree in business, communications or archaeology? The proper response to that question would require a separate article, but the quick answer is that American universities – and liberal arts universities in particular – want to teach to the “whole person,” which means combining a careeroriented specialty with interesting combinations of other types of coursework not directly related to the speciality. It is believed that the core skills learned in general education – the critical thinking skills and the cultural and disciplinary cross-training – are required to thrive in a globalised economy that creates and destroys jobs at an accelerating pace. That said, American liberal arts style education is not suitable for everyone. Most students understandably want more clearly defined career paths, some of which require early specialisation and specific credentials or licensure requirements. The liberal arts university also offers degrees in business and economics, the social sciences, and even tech. But the expectation (and requirement) is to avoid rigidity and over-specialisation.

AUR president Scott Sprenger. Photo Laboratorio Fotografico Corsetti.

One reason for this is that over-specialisation at the undergraduate level can be risky, given the tenuous correlation between an undergraduate major and a specific career. A recent LinkedIn study, for example, suggests that college graduates will change positions “an average of four times in their first decade out of college.” And a Federal Reserve Bank of New York study shows that a staggering 73 per cent of US graduates end up employed in fields unrelated to their undergraduate major. The challenge, it would appear, is preparing not for the first job after college, but for a changing set of careers over a lifetime. Herein lies the deepest, long-term value of an American liberal arts education and the answer to the question by Italian students about “why general education?”: adaptability, mental crosspollination, and the ability to transfer learned skills from one context to another when market disruption inevitably occurs. For individuals who view their life and career as an adventure, who want to continue to explore new ideas and people, but also want to improve the human condition, the American liberal arts university, in all its perceived quirkiness, is an excellent choice. Wanted in Rome • February 2022 | 13

LAGO DI ALBANO This volcanic crater lake presents visitors with beautiful views of its clear water and surrounding forests. The picturesque towns along the shores serve as popular summer resort areas for Romans, including Castel Gandolfo, home to the summer papal palace whose gardens were recently opened to the public. On the other side of the lake is Palazzolo, a villa bought by Rome’s Venerable English College in 1920 and now open to guests. The towns surrounding the lake are known for their restaurants, shops and fruit farms. Swimming, fishing and boating are among the favourite activities for visitors, and the lake’s beach is located on the western shore. A simple 45-minute train ride from Termini, visitors can reach Lago Albano by taking the FL4 train towards Albano Laziale and getting off at the Castel Gandolfo stop.

around rome LAGO DI NEMI Lago di Nemi is a small and unique volcanic lake where divers in the 19th century discovered two large ships built for the notorious Roman emperor Caligula at the bottom of the lake, filled withbottom of the lake, filled with artworks and treasures. Replicas of the ships along with other artefacts are on display at the nearby Museum of Roman Ships. Travellers can also visit the natural caves around the lake, which were a favourite haunt of 19th-century foreign artists such as Turner. Nemi is associated with the cult of the Roman goddess Diana, and, for the last 80 years, an annual strawberry festival. Visitors can reach the lake by taking the SS7 Appia southbound as far as Genzano, and then following signs for Nemi. LAGO DI VICO Formed by the volcanic activity of Mount Venus, Lago di Vico offers a unique geological backdrop set amid lush woodland and hills. The surrounding nature reserve is a haven for wildlife, but what is most characteristic of the area are the hazel and chestnut plantations. Lakeside campsites and hotels offer swimming, sailing and horse riding. The two towns worth a visit are Ronciglione and Caprarola with its magnificent and recently restored Villa Farnese. Lago di Vico is a 90-minute drive from Rome taking the SS2 Cassia, and turning north at Sutri.

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LAGO DI BOLSENA Located on the site of the Vulsini volcano, dormant since about 100 BC, this crater lake has two islands and is surrounded by rolling hills and vegetation. The area around Montefisascone on the southeast shore of the lake is famous for its Est! Est!! Est!!! wine. The town of Bolsena in the northeast is a popular tourist resort in summer and it is here that the famous so-called Eucharistic Miracle took place in 1263 when a Bohemian priest is said to have seen blood coming from the host that he had just consecrated at Mass. Capodimonte on the southwest of the lake is also worth a visit. The lakeside area provides activities for sports and nature enthusiasts all year round. The best way to reach Lago di Bolsena from Rome is by car, as buses to Bolsena from Termini Station are infrequent. LAGO DI BRACCIANO Just north-west of Rome along the Via Cassia, Lake Bracciano is one of the most easily accessible lakes for Romans. The ban on motor boats (except for a little ferry) means it remains an ideal spot for swimming, sailing and canoeing. The Lega Navale operates a dinghy sailing school in Anguillara. Churches and historic sites are located in the three small towns around the lake: Bracciano, Trevignano and Anguillara. There are also places for camping and horse riding tours by the lake, which is just an hour on the Viterbo train line from Rome’s Ostiense station. The lake is overlooked by the 15th-century Orsini-Odescalchi castle in Bracciano, often chosen as the venue for jet-set weddings, and there is also an air force museum at nearby Vigna di Valle. LAGO DI MARTIGNANO This tiny volcanic lake just to the east of Lake Bracciano offers clean water and beaches with scenic views of the surrounding meadows and wildlife. Lago di Martignano is known for its outdoor activities such as horse riding, hiking, mountain biking and swimming. Umbrellas, loungers and luggage storage are available to rent along with canoes, sailboats and windsurfing equipment. It is also known for the hot sulphurous springs surrounding the lake. Arriving at Lago di Martignano by car is the easiest option. Reaching the lake by public transport involves taking the FM3 train to Cesano and opting for either a local bus or taxi.

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Wanted in Rome • February 2022 | 15

ARTandSEEK Please note that there may be some English-language cultural workshops visitsof to variation to opening times atand some museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For these activities due to covid restrictions. It event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforis advisable to check websites for visiting kids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandsedetails and make reservation before going. ekforkids.com. Bioparco Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and offers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it. Bowling Silvestri This sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.

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There are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com. Casa del Parco Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com. Casina di Raffaello Play centre in Villa Borghese offering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Raffaello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadiraffaello.it.

Cinecittà World This 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special effects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it. Climbing Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, Thurs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473. Explora The 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it. Go-karting Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it. Gymboree This children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, offering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it. Hortis Urbis Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it. Il Nido Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.

Luneur Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it. Rainbow Magicland The 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it. Time Elevator A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. The time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it. Zoomarine This amusement and aquatic park outside Rome offers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.

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Rome’s artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant importantstreet street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre. Here is where to is find Rome’s mainthe street artstreet projects murals. from the centre. Here where to find main artand projects and murals around Rome. Esquilino Esquilino Murals Murals byby Alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Pistone, Nicola Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, Diamond. PiazzaMafredo Manfredo Fanti 47. Piazza Fanti 47.

Marconi Marconi The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artistSeth Seth is located in a street artist is located in a former former soap factory Via Antonio soap factory on Viaon Antonio AvogaAvogadro, opposite dro, opposite Ostiense'sOstiense’s landmark Gasometro. For For details see landmark Gasometro. details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com.

Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz Metropoliz This This former former meat meat factory factory inin the the outskirts of Rome is nowa astreet street outskirts of Rome is now art art museumasaswell well as as being museum being home hometoto some200 200squatting squatters,migrants. many of The them some migrants. The Museo dell’Altrodi e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altroveor diMAAM, Metropoliz, or MAAM, Metropoliz, is only open is only open on Saturdays, and on Saturdays, and features the work features the work of more than 300 of more than 300 artists including artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Edoardo Kobra, and GioDiamond. Pistone, Pistone, Sten&Lex See Sten&Lex, Pablo Echaurren and MAAM Facebook page for details. Borondo. See MAAM Via Prenestina 913. Facebook page for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense Ostiense Fronte Del by by Blu.Blu. Via Via del Porto Fronte Del Porto Porto del Fluviale. Porto Fluviale. Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Fluviale. Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Magazzini Shelley by Generali. Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense. Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Pigneto Ostiense. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Pigneto Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

18 | February 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi. Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Fortebraccio. 2501 mural on Via Blu Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Francesco Baracca. Francesco Baracca. Prati Prati Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo Nuovo Mercato Trionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria. Andrea Doria. theSabotino. bear by Daniza the bear byDaniza ROA. Via ROA. Via Sabotino. Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Magee. Via Via The by Fintan Cristoforo Numai. Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals andand Gio Tunnel muralsby byMr MrTHOMS THOMS Pistone. Via Decio Mure.Mure. Gio Pistone. Via Decio Nido di di Vespe ViaVia del Nido VespebybyLucamaleonte. Lucamaleonte. Monte del Grano. del Monte del Grano. Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89. Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by byBlu. Blu.Via ViaCiciliano Ciciliano and and Via Via Murals Palombini (Casal Palombini (Casaldè dèPazzi). Pazzi). Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station. Metro B station. S.S. Basilio Basilio SanBa SanBa features features large-scale large-scale works on on the façades façades of in the of social-housing social-housingblocks blocks the disadvantaged north-east suburb of in the disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerasuburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. tion project includes works by Italian The project artistsregeneration Agostino Iacurci, Hitnesincludes and Blu works by Italian artists alongside Spain's Liqen. ViaAgostino Maiolati, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Spain’s Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, S. Giovanni Via Treia. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S. Giovanni Apulia corner of Via Farsalo. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

It’s aa New NewDay Daybyby Alice Pasquini. It’s Alice Pasquini. Via Via Anton Ludovico. Anton Ludovico. S. Lorenzo S. Lorenzo Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Feminicide mural by Elisa Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo. Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi. Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Mural by by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Via Aquilonia. Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia. S. Pietro S. Pietro Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S. di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo. Gallo. Testaccio Testaccio Hunted byby ROA. ViaVia Galvani. HuntedWolf Wolf ROA. Galvani. #KindComments by by Alice Pasquini, Via #KindComments Alice Pasquini, Volta, Testaccio market. Via Volta, Testaccio market. Tor Pignattara Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via ViaAntonio AntonioTempesta. Tempesta. Dulk. Etnik.Via ViaBartolomeo Bartolomeo Perestrello Etnik. Perestrello 51. 51. Coﬀee Break Etam Cru. Via Coffee Break by Etamby Cru. Via Ludovico Pavoni. Ludovico Pavoni. Tom by Jef Via Gabrio TomSawyer Sawyer by Aerosol. Jef Aerosol. Via Serbelloni. Gabrio Serbelloni. Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema PasoliniVia by Acqua Diavù.Bullicante. Former Cinema Impero, Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Alessi. Herakut. Capua 14. GaleazzoVia Alessi. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Herakut. Via Capua 14. Oddi 6. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia Tor Big Marancia The City Life scheme features 14-m The Big City Life scheme tall murals by 22 Italian and features interna14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and tional street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia andartists Jerico.including The idea international street was to transform area's of Mr Klevra, Seth,the Gaia andblocks Jerico. flats into an open-air art museum. Via The idea was to transform the area’s Tor Marancia. www.bigcity.life.it. blocks of ﬂats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth. Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Wanted in Rome • February 2022 | 19

ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS PLEASE NOTE THAT NOT ALL OF THESE MUSEUMS ARE CURRENTLY OPEN, DUE TO THE COVID-19 CRISIS. IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS AND MAKE RESERVATION BEFORE GOING.

VATICAN MUSEUMS

Crypta Balbi

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

20 | February 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian. Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Capitoline Museums

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

MATTATOIO

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Museo Canonica

Palazzo Merulana

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

Wanted in Rome • February 2022 | 21

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ff-maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Visual art, design, architecture, fashion design and beauty apothecary in a 17th-century palace. Via dei Barbieri 7, tel. 0668805928, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Delfini, Via dei Delfini 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pastificio Cerere

This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

22 | February 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at affordable prices by artists working in various fields. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo

Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

Wanted in Rome • February 2022 | 23

MAXXI amazes you, always art

architecture design photography cinema

24 | February 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Galleria Russo

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Galleria Varsi

Plus Arte Puls

A dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di Grotta Pinta 38, tel. 066865415, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Gavin Brown's Enterprise

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

RvB ARTS

Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.

Sala 1

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

La Nuova Pesa

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino d’Arte Moderna

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

Monitor

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

Nero Gallery

The Gallery Apart

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

Nomas Foundation

TraleVolte

This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

White Noise Gallery

Based in the S. Lorenzo district, this gallery exhibits unconventional work by young Italian and international artists. Via della Seggiola 9, tel. 066832833, www.whitenoisegallery.it.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it. Wanted in Rome • February 2022 | 25

where to go in Rome

WHAT’S ON Seduta di coppia by Antonio Pronostico at Rosso20sette Arte Contemporanea. See page 28. Wanted in Rome • February 2022 | 27

EXHIBITIONS Museums and other cultural sites in Italy are open only to visitors with a Super Green Pass (the certificate issued following vaccination or recovery from covid-19). This provision does not apply to visitors under the age of 12. Most venues require advance booking and the wearing of masks is obligatory. Weekend visits to more popular sites such as the Colosseum and the Pantheon must be booked at least one day ahead. For visiting details check websites in advance.

GUIDO RENI AND ROME: NATURE AND DEVOTION 1 MARCH-22 MAY

Galleria Borghese stages a exhibition of works by Guido Reni, the first such major show dedicated to the Baroque master in Italy in three decades. The exhibition is built around Reni’s painting Country Dance, recently returned to the museum’s collection from which it was sold at the end of the 19th century. Curated by Francesca Cappelletti, the exhibition will focus on Reni’s interest in landscape painting in relationship to the other Italian and foreign painters active in Rome in the early 17th century. Galleria Borghese, Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5, www.galleriaborghese. beniculturali.it.

CRAZY: MADNESS IN CONTEMPORARY ART 18 Feb-8 March 2023

Chiostro del Bramante presents a new large-scale exhibition project curated by Danilo Eccher. The works of 21 international artists will fill the venue’s internal and external spaces “because madness cannot have limits.” The exhibition, described as unpredictable and immersive, will feature 11 sitespecific works displayed in rooms not normally open to visitors. The 21 artists include Petah Coyne, Ian

28 | February 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Guido Reni at Galleria Borghese. Strage degli innocenti, 1611. Image courtesy Ministero della Cultura-Pinacoteca Nazionale di Bologna. Photo Marco Baldassari.

Davenport, Janet Echelman, Lucio Fontana, Anne Hardy, Thomas Hirschhorn, Alfredo Pirri, Gianni Politi. See cover. Chiostro del Bramante, Arco della Pace 5, www. chiostrodelbramante.it.

been described as “a delicate and romantic reflection on the difficult balance that characterises every form of coexistence.” Rosso20sette contemporary art, Via del Sudario 39, www.rosso27.com.

ANTONIO PRONOSTICO

MILK

Rosso20sette Arte Contemporanea hosts the solo exhibition Seduta di coppia by Antonio Pronostico, winner of the Artribune award as best illustrator 2021. The Romebased artist presents a series of illustrations depicting couples seated uncomfortably, as they carry out daily activities, in what has

The Dorothy Circus Gallery stages a group exhibition dedicated to one of the most celebrated themes in the history of art: motherhood. The works on display will explore various aspects of maternity, from the Madonna to Mother Nature, by a host of international pop surrealist artists including Fatima

5 FEB-5 MARCH

17-19 FEB

Wanted in Rome • February 2022 | 29

Ronquillo, Alex Face, Dulk, Flávia Itiberê, Jade Rivera, Clémentine Bal, Blic, Afarin Sajedi, Miss Van and Cheng Cheng Yi. Dorothy Circus Gallery, Via dei Pettinari 76, www.dorothycircusgallery.it.

CARAVAGGIO AND ARTEMISIA 26 NOV-27 MARCH

Caravaggio and Artemisia: Judith’s challenge. Violence and seduction in painting between the 16th and 17th centuries. This exhibition at Palazzo Barberini takes as it starting point Judith who decapitates Holofernes in Caravaggio’s masterpiece which was rediscovered 70 years ago before being acquired by the Italian state. Evaluating the impact the powerful painting has had on the art world over the centuries, the exhibition comprises 31 works, from major institutions, including the Prado and the Thyssen Museum in Madrid, the Capodimonte Museum in Naples and the Borghese Gallery in Rome. The show features works by artists including Orazio and Artemisia Gentileschi, Valentin de Boulogne,

Sebastião-Salgado at MAXXI. Indiana Yawanawá, Stato di Acre, Brasile 2016.©-Sebastião Salgado Contrasto.

Pietro Novelli, Mattia Preti and Giuseppe Vermiglio. Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, www.barberinicorsini. org.

KLIMT: LA SECESSIONE E L’ITALIA 27 OCT-27 MARCH

Palazzo Braschi presents an exhibition of paintings by Gustav Klimt, including Portrait of a Lady, which went missing for almost 23 years after its theft from a gallery in

Piacenza. The painting was stolen in 1997 before being rediscovered in the gallery’s garden, in mysterious circumstances, in 2019. The works on show feature some of the Austrian artist’s masterpieces from the Belvedere Museum in Vienna, the Klimt Foundation and public and private collections such as the Neue Galerie Graz. Highlights among the paintings, sculptures and drawings on display include Judith I, Lady in White, Friends I (The Sisters), Amalie Zuckerkandl and The Bride. The exhibition focuses on the artist’s relationship with Italy and the influence he had on other artists working in the country. Museo di Roma, Piazza Navona 2, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it.

SEBASTIAO SALGADO 1 OCT-25 APRIL

Seduta di coppia exhibition by Antonio Pronostico at Rosso20sette Arte Contemporanea.

30 | February 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Photojournalist Sebastião Salgado provides a black and white photographic journey through the Brazilian Amazon, after he spent six years capturing images of the forest, the rivers, the mountains and the people who live there. MAXXI, Italy’s national museum of 21stcentury arts, presents Salgado’s 200 photographs against a soundscape of sounds - recorded in the forests and created by Jean-Michel Jarre – feauring the rustling of trees, birdsong, the shrieks of animals, and the roar of waterfalls. The exhibition highlights the fragility of this ecosystem, showing that in the protected areas where the indigenous communities live the forest has suffered almost no damage. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.

Italy's first AP School

admissions@aosr.org www.aosr.org/admissions

The Best of an American-International Education Wanted in Rome • February 2022 | 31

OPERA MILAN I CAPULETTI E I MONTECCHI BY VINCENZO BELLINI 18 JAN-2 FEB

Evelin Pidò conducts a new production of Bellini’s version of Romeo and Juliet, directed by Adrian Noble, who was the head of the Royal Shakespeare Company until 2003. This is Noble’s debut at La Scala. Marianne Crebassa sings Romeo and Lisette Oropesa Giulietta. Bellini composed the opera in 1830 for the Venice Carnival and given that he had little over a month to deliver the composition he used material from Zaira, his fifth opera which had been a flop in Parma the previous year. I Capuletti e i Montecchi became an immediate success and made Bellini’s reputation. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

THAÏS BY MASSENET 10 FEB-2 MARCH

Massenet's opera, inspired by Anatole France's novel, has never been performed before at La Scala. It debuted in Paris in 1894 and then in Milan in 1903 at the Teatro Lirico Internazionale. Lorenzo Viotti conducts La Scala orchestra

Oksana Lyniv conducts Puccini's Turnadot at the Teatro dell'Opera di Roma.

and chorus and it is staged by the French director is Olivier Pye. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

PIQUE DAME BY TCHAIKOVSKY 23 FEB-15 MARCH

Tchaikovsky’s opera is conducted by Valery Gergiev in a new La Scala production directed by Matthias Hartmann. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

ROME LUISA MILLER BY VERDI 8 FEB-17 FEB

Michele Mariotti as conductor and Damiano Michieletto as director

makes for an interesting duo, with Michele Pertusi as Count Walter and Daniela Barcellona as Federica. Luisa Miller was Verdi's 15th opera and is the start of what is known as his "middle period". This is an OpernHaus Zurich production. Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

TURANDOT BY PUCCINI

22-31 MARCH

This is a new Teatro dell’Opera di Roma production, conducted by Oksana Lyniv and directed by Ai Weiwei. The Ukrainian conductor Oksana Lyniv and Ai Weiwei make an intriguing combination for Rome opera lovers. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

Classical ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA ROMANA CICLO BACH THOMAS GAVAZZI 6 FEB

This is the first in the series of Bach concerts throughout February. Thomas Gavazzi plays the harpsichord. There are other

32 | February 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Valery Gergiev conducts Daniil Trifonov with the Marinsky Orchestra.

concerts on 13 Feb, 20 Feb and 27 Feb. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 18. www.filarmonicaromana.org.

Sinopoli, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36, www.santacecilia.it.

Trifonov. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36, www.santacecilia.it.

ASSOLI VI STEFANO BRUNO

ANTONIO PAPPANO KIRILL GERSTEIN

DANIIL TRIFONOV SERGEI BABAYAN

The Assoli series of concerts is dedicated to contemporary music. Other concerts in the series are on 1 April, 8 April, 20 May. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 18, www. filarmonicaromana.org.

Antonio Pappano conducts the S. Cecilia Orchestra with pianist Kirill Gerstein, playing music by Dukas, Adés and Strauss. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36, www.santacecilia.it.

These two pianists play Rachmaninoff’s Suite No 1 in G minor, Suite No 2 opus 17, and Symphonic Dances. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36, www.santacecilia.it.

25 FEB

3-5 FEB

BORRANI, BRAUN, LONQUICH

MAURIZIO POLLINI

Lorenza Borrani violin, Ursina Maria Braun cello and Alexander Lonquich piano, play music by Schumann. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www.filarmonicaromana. org.

Maurizio Pollini plays music by Beethoven, Schumann and Chopin. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36, www. santacecilia.it.

10 FEB

GABRIELE CARCANO 17 FEB

Pianist Gabriele Carcano plays music by Bach, Ravel, Schubert, Liszt and Chopin. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www. filarmonicaromana.org.

ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA QUARTETTO ADORNO 2 FEB

The Italian string quartet, which was founded in 2015 and which has already made a name for itself abroad, plays music by Webern, Shostakovich and Beethoven. Sala

7 FEB

ANTONIO PAPPANO ALEXEI VOLODIN 8-9 FEB

Antonio Pappano conducts the S. Cecilia Orchestra performing music by Szymanowski, Rachmaninov and Tchaikovsky, with Alexei Volodin piano. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36, www.santacecilia.it.

VALERY GERGIEV DANIIL TRIFONOV 12 FEB

Valery Gergiev conducts the Teatro Mariinsky Orchestra performing music by Rachmaninoff and Stravinsky, with pianist Daniil

14 FEB

MYUNG-WHUN CHUNG LEONIDAS KAVAKOS 17-19 FEB

Myung-Whun Chung conducts the S. Cecilia Orchestra performing music by Mendelssohn and Bruckner, with violinist Leonidas Kavakos. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36, www.santacecilia.it.

KODO: ONE EARTH TOUR 2022 20 FEB

This concert by the Japanese drummers, playing The Heartbeat and Drummers of Sado Island is part of their European tour. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36, www. santacecilia.it

#solomonteverdi RAFFAELE PE & La Lira di Orfeo 23 FEB

As you would expect from the title the programme is entirely of music by Monteverdi played by this baroque music ensemble. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36, www. santacecilia.it.

DANIELE GATTI 24 FEB

Rome is part of the Kodo drummers One Earth Tour 2022.

34 | February 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Daniele Gatti conducts the S. Cecilia Orchestra performing Mendelssohn’s symphony no 4 (Italian) and Mahler’s symphony no 1 (Titan). Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36, www.santacecilia.it.

Wanted in Rome • February 2022 | 35

DANCE MILAN

TEATRO ALLA SCALA JEWELS

11-24 MARCH

Jewels by Ballanchine is made up of three pieces, Emeralds, Rubies and Diamonds, inspired by jewellery designer Claude Arpels. Each creation has different music (Emeralds to music by Faure, Rubies to music by Stravinsky and Diamonds to music by Tchaikovsky) as well as a different theme and colour scheme. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

ROME

TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA FORSYTHE/INGER/BLANC 25 FEB-3 MARCH

Three works by this trio of choreographers, Herman Scherman by William Forsythe, Walking Mad by Johan Inger and From Afar by Nicholas Blanc, danced by Alessandra Amato, Susanna Salvi, Claudio Cocino and Alessio Rezza

Emeralds, Rubies and Diamonds (pictured here) are the three parts of Ballanchine's choreography Jewels at Teatro alla Scala in March.

of the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma Ballet Corps. When asked in an interview about the name for his work for the New York Ballet this was Forsythe’s reply: “I first heard that phrase [‘Herman Schmerman’] used by Steve Martin in the film Dead Men Don’t Wear Plaid. I think it’s a lovely title that means nothing. The ballet means nothing, too. It’s a piece about dancing that will be a lot of fun. It’s just ... talented dancers dancing around — and that’s good, isn’t it?” Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

Rubies from Ballanchine's choreography Jewels at Teatro alla Scala.

TEATRO OLIMPICO PARSONS DANCE 8-15 FEB

Emeralds from Jewels at Teatro alla Scala.

36 | February 2022 • Wanted in Rome

The new Italian tour of this muchloved American company. It will world premiere Eight Women to music by Aretha Franklin. The company will also dance the wellknown Caught which dates back to 1982 and Microburst which has not been seen before in Italy. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano, www.teatroolimpico.it.

Wanted in Rome • February 2022 | 37

lassical lassical

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city. The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city. There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums. Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All

concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica. Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza,

Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone 32a, RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome.

often concerts, festivals and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and7 the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards. Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com 5040 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Romein Rome | February 2022 • Wanted

MUSIC MUSIC THEATR THEATRE CINEMA CINEMA VENUES VENUES

MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

inema inema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wantedshow in Rome website for The following cinemas movies in English weekly updates. or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for Adriano, Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 weeklyPiazza updates. Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 0686391361 Barberini, Piazza BarberiniMastroianni 24-26, 1, tel. Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello 0686391361 tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 068553485 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 068553485 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 066861068 Odeon, Piazza Stefano 22, tel. Nuovo Sacher, LargoJacini Ascianghi 1, 0686391361 tel. 065818116

Space Moderno, Piazza della 44, tel. Odeon, Piazza Stefano JaciniRepubblica 22, tel. 0686391361 06892111 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec06892111 chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

dd p p 38

Wanted in Rome | December 2017

Teatro 06684000314, ww T Teatro Belli, 06684000314, ww ww T Teatro ww Brancaccio, ww T Teatro ww Ghione, ww T Teatro ww 06684000311, ww T 06684000311, ww

LEOŠ JANÁČEK

Kát’a Kabanová TEATRO COSTANZI JANUARY 18 - 27

CONDUCTOR DAVID ROBERTSON DIRECTOR RICHARD JONES TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA ORCHESTRA AND CHORUS

Ettore Festa, HaunagDesign - IIllustration by Gianluigi Toccafondo

A TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA NEW PRODUCTION IN COPRODUCTION WITH ROYAL OPERA HOUSE COVENT GARDEN

operaroma.it

FOUNDERS

PRIVATE SHAREHOLDERS

PATRONS

ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net 50 | Jan 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel. 14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Wanted51in| Oct Rome • February | 43 2018 • Wanted2022 in Rome

TEATRO COSTANZI FEBRUARY 8 - 17, 2022

GIUSEPPE VERDI

Luisa Miller CONDUCTOR MICHELE MARIOTTI DIRECTOR DAMIANO MICHIELETTO TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA ORCHESTRA AND CHORUS A OPERNHAUS ZÜRICH PRODUCTION

Forsythe / Inger / Blanc HERMAN SCHMERMAN WALKING MAD FROM AFAR TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA ÉTOILES, PRINCIPAL DANCERS, SOLOISTS AND CORPS DE BALLET A TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA NEW PRODUCTION MUSIC ON RECORDED BASIS

operaroma.it

SOCI FONDATORI

SOCI PRIVATI

MECENATI

Ettore Festa, HaunagDesign - IIllustration by Gianluigi Toccafondo

TEATRO COSTANZI FEBRUARY 25 - MARCH 3, 2022

CARCIOFI ALLA GIUDIABy Kate Zagorski As a classic dish of Jewish-Roman cuisine, carciofi alla giudia (Jewish-style, deep-fried artichokes) are a must-eat dish in the Eternal City. Although many restaurants, particularly in the Jewish Ghetto, serve them almost year-round, it is in the springtime when the local romanesco artichokes hit peak season that they are at their best. Making carciofi alla giudia at home is simpler than it looks. It helps if you can purchase your artichokes ready-cleaned (most market stalls will do this for you), otherwise factor in a little extra time to prepare them. The locally-grown Roman artichokes are spherical, with abundant, tightly packed leaves and no inner choke. The artichokes are fried twice, the first time at a lower temperature and for a longer period to ensure they are cooked through, and the second time at a high heat to open out the leaves and turn them golden. The outer layer of leaves should be hot and crunchy with the interior becoming softer and more tender. Don’t forget to eat the stalk too! To make this recipe it is handy to have a kitchen thermometer as the artichokes are fried at two different temperatures, but it is possible to make them without. Just use a smaller ring on the stove for the first fry and a larger one for the second.

Ingredients 4 Roman artichokes 2 lt vegetable oil 1 lemon Salt Pepper

• Firstly, if not already done, you will need to trim and clean the artichokes. Start by removing the hard, outer leaves then, using a sharp knife, cut

the stem, leaving around 5-6cm. Cut the top third off the head of the artichoke, then trim the leaves in a spiral motion until you get to the paler yellow leaves. Trim the tougher exterior from the base of the stem. • Now halve the lemon and rub the artichokes before placing them in a large bowl of cold water along with the juice of the lemon and the rinds. This will prevent oxidisation turning the leaves black. • In the meantime, bring a large saucepan of vegetable oil to a temperature of 130°C, if you use a smaller ring on you stove you should prevent the oil getting too hot. • Drain the artichokes and dry them well with kitchen paper, then place them into the oil and cook for about 10 minutes. Test that the artichokes are cooked by poking a fork or skewer at the base of the stalk. If it goes in and out easily the artichokes are ready. Remove the artichokes from the oil and leave them too cool on kitchen paper to absorb the excess oil. • Once they are cool, use your finger to open out the leaves, as if it were a flower. This will encourage them to open out further during the second frying. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, then heat the oil back up on a larger stove ring to a temperature of 190°. Carefully plunge the artichokes into the oil and cook for a few minutes until the leaves turn golden and crispy. • Remove the artichokes from the oil and leave them to drain for a minute before sprinkling with a little salt and serving hot and crunchy.

Coromandel, Via di Monte Giordano 60/61, tel. 0668802461. Dolce, Via Tripolitania 4, tel. 0686215696. Ketumbar, Via Galvani 24, tel. 0657305338. ‘Na Cosetta, Via Ettore Giovenale 54, tel. 0645598326.

Indirizzi

Queen Makeda, Via di S. Saba 11, tel. 065759608.

Ciclostazione Frattini, Via Pietro Frattini 136/138, tel. 065503707. Atlas Coelestis, Via Malcesine 41, tel. 0635072243. Porto Fluviale, Via del Porto Fluviale 22, tel. 065743199. Rosti al Pigneto, Via Bartolomeo D’Alviano 65, tel. 062752608. Doppiozero, Via Ostiense 68, tel. 0657301961. Misto, Via Fezzan 21, tel. 0645471971. Il Bistrot delle Officine Farneto, Via dei Monti della Farnesina 77, tel. 0690286945. Mavi, Lungotevere di Pietra Papa 201, tel. 065584801.

Where to brunch in Rome Our picks of the best restaurants and cafes serving brunch on weekends – from Eggs Benedict to American-style pancakes. QUEEN MAKEDA GRAND PUB Each Sunday Queen Makeda offers an international brunch of dishes from the wok, noodles, salads, eggs, homemade tarts, vegetables, baked potatoes, artisan sausages and wurstel. There’s also the option of a British-style Sunday roast lunch, which includes beef, chicken, lamb, pork and Yorkshire puddings. Don’t miss the desserts, the 40 different craft beers available, the juices and the tasty nonalcoholic drinks. On the children’s menu (there’s also a supervised kids’ play area) you’ll find burgers, chips, tomato pasta and hot dogs. Sun 12.30-16.00. COROMANDEL Located near Piazza Navona, this cafe recreates the feel of a cosy 1950s home. If you fancy English-style eggs or pancakes for breakfast, then this is your place. On the menu you’ll find: simple eggs, omelette with roast potatoes and sausage, and either pancakes with bacon and maple syrup, scrambled eggs, maple syrup and icing sugar, or sweet pancakes with chocolate and hazelnut sauce, banana and flaked almonds. There are also smoothies, yogurt and fruit. Sat-Sun from 11.00-15.00. DOLCE For a New York-style Sunday brunch, head to Dolce, the restaurant and bakery in the Africano district. The kitchen is transformed into a bakery with a menu brimming with international cuisine. From eggs to pancakes, or even to sandwiches, sweet and savoury are placed side by side. You can choose between an omelette with three fillings of your choice, or an Eggs Benedict on toasted bread baked in-house. Sun 12.00-15.00. KETUMBAR Ketumbar’s organic brunch, served at weekends, is the talk of Testaccio. There’s a buffet ranging from antipasti to cakes and pastries, that changes seasonally. There are also many different soups, cous cous, dark taragna polente, fritters, hummus, cod au gratin, granary focaccia, salads and vegan dishes. The menu is accompanied by organic wine and artisan beers. At Ketumbar, brunch is also baby-friendly. There’s a kid’s menu and a space dedicated to young children, cared for by qualified minders. Sat-Sun 12.30-16.00. ‘NA COSETTA In this Italian bistro in Pigneto, you can enjoy brunch, otherwise known in Italian as the ‘colanzo’. Dishes are both sweet and savoury and stick to a true Italian style with a few of the chef’s special touches. Pastries and cakes are made by pastry chef Stefania Guerrizio. Sun 12.30-16.00. CICLOSTAZIONE FRATTINI If you’re on the hunt for a place in the Portuense district where you can sit outside and let your kids run about, Ciclostazione Frattini should be your go-to brunch spot. A restaurant, pizzeria and grill, here the whole family can have fun in the indoor Baby Garden and Baby Park. The menu includes more than 30 options, ranging from fresh artisan pasta to homemade cakes and desserts. There are main courses such as meat and fish dishes, soups, cooked vegetables, salads, and cheeses. Sat-Sun 12.30-15.30.

ATLAS COELESTIS Here you can choose between ten different dishes, from antipasti to dessert, which change weekly. There are also roselline di pizza (baked pizza in the shape of roses) to taste, as the restaurant has reopened its pizza oven and in the evening it serves pizzas made with wholewheat flour. On the kid’s menu you’ll find three different options for the main meal and ice cream for dessert. Sun 12.30. PORTO FLUVIALE This crowded Ostiense restaurant offers a buffet brunch menu containing around 60 dishes: hot and cold pasta dishes, soups, raw salads and cooked vegetable dishes, meats, and cheeses served with a variety of tasty dips and sauces. Don’t forget to try the delicious pastries and cakes. Sat-Sun 12.30-16.00. ROSTI AL PIGNETO If you feel like spending the weekend outside in a huge garden suitable for children, Rosti is the place for you. For starters you can tuck into the gnocchi with tomato and basil sauce, cannelloni with ricotta and tomato, ravioli with burrata, tomato and basil, or vegetarian crepes. For main course there’s seasoned meat balls, veal steak with mushrooms, roast pork with honey, turkey nuggets with yoghurt and mustard, anchovies marinated in tarragon and chilli, or cod balls with tomato, as well as salads and desserts. Sat-Sun 12.30-16.00. DOPPIOZERO Here you can enjoy a tasty brunch that benefits from its onsite bakery. The buffet at the weekend includes pasta, pizza (many different types), olive bread, cous cous, salmon, meat, buffalo mozarella and baked goods such as muffins and brownies. Sat-Sun 12.30-15.30. MISTO Located in the Africano district, Misto serves club sandwiches, pancakes, muffins, salads, and seasonal fruits made into juices and smoothies. You can choose one dish from a choice of three: the club sandwich, fillet of salmon or veggie sandwich and then add either pancakes or a salad, then choose between a savoury muffin or Scottish scone, and select a fruit juice. Kids can enjoy either a savoury muffin or Scottish scone, pancakes, fruit salad or orange or blueberry juice. We also recommend trying one of the alcoholic fruit cocktails or a pomegranate spritz. Sun 11.30-15.30. IL BISTROT DELLE OFFICINE FARNETO Every Sunday you can tuck into a tasty brunch at the bistro in Officine Farneto, on Via Monti della Farnesina. The dishes range from homemade fresh pasta to meat and fish courses, cooked vegetables and desserts. We recommend the freshly-prepared burgers. Sun from 12.30. MAVI At Mavi you can enjoy a brunch that’s a little different – part buffet, part à la carte. On the buffet you’ll find eggs, savoury pancakes and many different salad recipes, while from the menu you can order dishes such as burgers, bagels, cakes and sweet pancakes. The buffet includes coffee, water and fruit juice. Sun 13.00-16.00.

www.puntarellarossa.it

Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com

Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

48 | February 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

50 | February 2022 • Wanted in Rome

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers • • • • • • •

Ambulance tel. 118 Carabinieri tel. 112 Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 Fire brigade tel. 115 Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 Police tel. 113 Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355

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