Wanted in Rome - February 2023

EDITORIALS MISCELLANY WHAT'S ON

24. EXHIBITIONS

DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini

EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9

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IMPAGINAZIONE: Simona Castellari

STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c.

DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 31/01/2023

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CONTENTS

4 ITALY SEEKS UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE STATUS FOR APPIAN WAY

24 EXHIBITIONS

28 classical

6 ITALY NURTURES NEW GENERATION OF FILMMAKERS

ITALY SEEKS UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE STATUS FOR APPIAN WAY

CULTURE MINISTRY BACKS UNESCO BID FOR ANCIENT ROMAN ROAD

Andy Devane

Italy is moving forward with the candidacy process to have the Via Appia Antica inserted in the UNESCO World Heritage List, in what is the first such effort promoted directly by the Italian culture ministry.

Begun in 312 BC, the Via Appia Antica is the first and most important Roman road and was known as Regina viarum or “queen of the roads” by the Romans. The bid for UNESCO recognition refers to the full route of the Appian Way, from Rome to Brindisi in south-east Italy. It also includes the Via Traiana, built by Emperor Trajan as an extension of the ancient Roman road from Beneveneto to Brindisi on the Adriatic coast.

A signing ceremony for the candidacy of Via Appia. Regina viarum for inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage List was held at the Baths of Diocletian in Rome on 10

January before the bid was sent to the International Council on Monuments and Sites (ICOMOS), the Paris-based advisory body to the World Heritage Committee.

“After the complex and long evaluation process by ICOMOS, it is hoped that the Appia will be recognised in the famous list during the summer 2024 Session (JuneJuly)”, said Angela Maria Ferroni of the culture ministry’s UNESCO office in a statement last October.

In May Italy’s former culture minister Dario Franceschini said: “The Appian Way is an itinerary to be enhanced and placed at the centre of slow tourism to strengthen the offer of new attractions such as sustainable walkways and routes”, adding that the road had all the qualities to become one of the greatest camino routes in Europe. Franceschini’s successor, Gennaro Sangiuliano, has continued efforts by the culture ministry to promote the Appian Way bid.

A total of 73 municipalities, 15 parks, 12 cities and provinces, four regions (Lazio, Campania, Basilicata and Puglia), 25 Italian and foreign universities, and the Pontifical Commission for Sacred Archaeology have united to protect, enhance and promote the Via Appia. Regina viarum project, which was already included in UNESCO’s tentative list.

In a statement, the culture ministry said the road’s “well-preserved infrastructural,

Via Appia Antica or the Appian Way is a candidate for UNESCO World Heritage status.

archaeological, architectural, funerary and civil testimonies” represent a “cultural heritage of exceptional importance.”

In late January archaeologists working on a newly-concluded dig near the Baths of Caracalla presented their findings to the press.

Discoveries from the excavation, which began last summer, included a first-century AD marble head of a young man as well as ceramic fragments, coins and jewellery from various different periods. The dig did not however achieve the result that archaeologists had been hoping for, namely to find the starting point of the first mile of the Appian Way.

Over the previous few months experts succeeded in digging down to a depth of eight metres at the Caracalla site but were forced to stop due to the excessive groundwater whose force proved unmanageable even with water pumps.

Significantly, archaeologists unearthed the remains of a 10-century road which they believe is proof that the route followed the course of the ancient Appian Way through the Middle Ages. For now, however, the elusive beginning point of the Appia Antica remains hidden underground.

Just a couple of days after the Caracalla news conference, an ancient statue of an elderly man portrayed as Hercules was discovered during sewage works in Parco Scott, part of the Appia Antica Archaeological Park.

The life-size marble relic was found 20 metres underground in the parkland, near the busy Cristoforo Colombo road, at the second mile mark of the Appian Way. The well preserved Roman statue can “certainly be identified as a figure representing Herclues”, according to the Appia Antica Archaeological Park, due to “the club and the lion’s coat covering its head”.

Experts say the statue was not found in its original context however and that it had been buried there during construction works for the sewer system in the first half of the 20th century. “At the time there were no archaeological checks, so it could happen”, Archaeologist Francesca Romana Paolillo

told Corriere della Sera newspaper, adding that the statue is currently undergoing tests to determine its origin and date.

Paolillo also stressed that the statue “represents a figure dressed as Hercules, not the mythological hero himself.” The general consensus among experts is that the sculpture bears a resemblance to Emperor Decius who ruled Rome from 249 to 251 AD.

The archaeological findings along the Appia Antica in Rome made international headlines and will be seen by the culture ministry as a welcome boost in Italy’s campaign to receive the coveted UNESCO recognition for the most famous of ancient roads.

Ancient statue of figure in the guise of Hercules discovered in Parco Scott. Photo Parco Regionale dell' Appia Antica.

Excavations in search of the first mile of the Appian Way, above and below. Photos Fabio Caricchia/Italian culture ministry.

ITALY NURTURES NEW GENERATION OF FILMMAKERS

A LOOK AT THE ITALIAN DIRECTORS TO WATCH OUT FOR

Charles Seymour

Oscar season has arrived. Yet Italy’s pared back representation in this year’s nominations – announced on 24 January – does little to deter from the fact that Italian cinema is most definitely on the up. A glut of titles from a wave of young, up-and-coming filmmakers is bringing new drive and vibrance to Italy’s international cinema profile.

The surge of younger talent comes amid a shake-up in the Italian film and TV industry. Streaming platforms like Netflix (newly relocated to Rome from Amsterdam) and production giants like Fremantle are bringing investment to a sector that has stagnated for

decades under dwindling ticket sales and a scarcity of public funds for the arts. Additionally, tax incentives are also attracting a plethora of international productions to the country. The percolation of new productions is energising a new generation of home-grown talent. Producers, directors and scriptwriters are finally stepping out of the shadows of the old masters, like Paolo Sorrentino, Luca Guadagnino and Matteo Garrone, who have dominated Italy’s cinematic reputation abroad for decades.

Gleaned from industry chatter, interviews and recent nominations at international festivals, here are just some (of many) rising star Italian directors whose distinctive voices are setting them apart:

Alice Rohrwacher

Alongside legendary hair and make-up artist Aldo Signoretti, Alice Rohrwacher, is the only other Italian entry into this year’s Academy Awards after her 37-minute work, Pupille (2022) was nominated for an Oscar in the short film category. Since receiving a Cannes Grand Prix award at the age of 33 for her beekeeping film, The Wonders (2014), the writer and director has become an unmissable talent of Italy’s contemporary cinematic output.

The daughter of an Italian mother, a teacher, and a German beekeeper father, Rohrwacher grew up in the Umbrian countryside. These

Alice Rohrwacher

rural roots turn up frequently in her films, most strikingly in the enthralling Happy as Lazzaro (2018), which follows the fate of a clan of share-croppers who grow tobacco in a dusty valley in central Italy. The film’s rugged and semi-magical realist portrayal of countryside living doubles as an smart critique of a modern Italy subsumed by greed and decay. Upon its release in 2018, it became an instant success, winning Best Screenplay at Cannes and a nomination for the Palme D’Or.

Since then Rohrwacher’s career has shown few signs of slowing down. Her next full-length film La Chimera (2023) – released later this year - looks to be a promising return to the folkloric style of her previous work and stars a standout cast, including Emmy-winning The Crown star Josh O’Connor, in the role of a young English archaeologist who gets caught up in the trafficking of ancient artefacts.

Jonas Carpignano

Typically those who work in cinema in Italy try to orbit around Rome, but this is not the case for Jonas Carpignano, 39. For the ItalianAmerican director, the Calabrian town of Gioia Tauro has been both a home and muse.

Known for his three films set in Gioia Tauro, Carpignano’s films have a gritty and timely allure. Shot in low-key style, sometimes with handheld camera and played by local actors Carpignano first knew as friends, he has been tipped by some as an heir to Italy’s neo-realist tradition.

After growing up between Rome and New York, he was inspired to make Mediterranea (2015), his first film, after witnessing the clashes between migrants and citizens in Rosarno in January 2010. He moved to the region and made a film that tells of a young man’s journey from Burkina Faso to southern Italy in hopes of a better life and the social tensions he encounters upon arrival. Gioia Tauro remained a compass for his two subsequent films, A Ciambra (2017) and the much acclaimed A Chiara (2021). They have won a number of important awards (David di Donatello for Best Director) and nominations at some of the most important international festivals, including Venice and Cannes.

He is yet to unveil a full-length feature film but the intimate and sensuous filmmaking of Simone Bozzelli, 28, has already got the Italian film industry talking. His breakout moment came at the age of 26 when his stunning student film J’Ador (2020) – a story of a 15-year-old boy’s desire to ingratiate himself into a neo-fascist clan in a Rome suburb – won the prize for the best short at the 35th Venice Film Festival in 2020. Originally from Silvi, near Pescara, Bozzelli was mid-way through studying film directing at the prestigious Centro Sperimentale di Cinematografia (CSC) of Rome when he won at Venice.

Since then he has been busy developing a distinctive visual style. In 2021 he directed the video for Rome rock band Måneskin’s I Wanna Be Your Slave which won the MTV Music Award for Best Alternative Video. His short film Giochi (2021) was presented at the 74th Locarno Film Festival the same year. His much anticipated first feature Patagonia is due to be released in the second half of 2023. Bozzelli

Simone Bozzelli

Jonas Carpignano

Simone Bozzelli

describes it as “a story about a journey and love that turns into a cage of pleasures and sorrows from which it is difficult to escape.”

Laura Samani

Laura Samani, 33, has got the talent to go the distance. She is also part of an exciting group of emerging women filmmakers – alongside Rohrwacher (mentioned above) and other directors like Susanna Nicchiarelli (Chiara, 2022) and Laura Bispuri (The Peacock’s Paradise, 2021) – whose unique voices and female gaze set them apart from the rest of Italy’s film scene long dominated by men.

Last year, her first feature film, Small Body (2022), won her the David di Donatello award for Best Debut Director – the Italian equivalent of an Oscar. Set in the early 20th century, Small Body tells the story of a young mother’s shock after the stillbirth of her daughter. It becomes a meditation on grief, motherhood and religion as the woman sets out on a journey to save her child’s soul. From the striking opening of the film on a weather-beaten beach on the Adriatic Sea, it seems that Samani wants to draw us into the spectacular landscapes of her own upbringing in north-eastern Italy. She was raised in Trieste, before attending the University of Pisa and the Centro Sperimentale di Cinematografia in Rome.

As Samani’s body of work grows, we can fully expect to see her gain the recognition and attention she deserves from audiences and festival juries around the world. The premiere of her latest short film, The End of Summer, Notes on Furio (2022), was screened at the Trieste Film Festival at the end of January.

Damiano and Fabio D’Innocenzo

Bards of the Roman peripheries, Damiano and Fabio D’Innocenzo never thought that they would end up working in cinema. But today the twins are the bright young things of Italian cinema with plenty of talent to show for it.

Born in Rome in 1988, they grew up in Tor Bella Monaca, a tough eastern suburb. Their father was a fisherman and gardener. They began writing stories about the people around them in their neighbourhood, chronicling their misadventures as well as their hopes and frustrations. After a while they began to approach filmmaking without any formal training. Initially working as screenwriters, they made their official entry into this world of directing with their Gomorra-esque debut feature Boys Cry (2018) about two best friends as they begin a descent into Rome’s criminal underworld after they accidentally kill a pedestrian with their car.

But it was with their second feature Bad Tales (2020) about a sadistic father in a dysfunctional suburban family, that made the biggest splash. The film was selected to compete for the Golden Bear at the 70th Berlin International Film Festival and was awarded the Silver Bear for Best Screenplay. Their latest film America Latina (2021) was selected to compete for the Golden Lion at the 78th Venice International Film Festival.

The D’Innocenzo brothers are currently shooting a new TV series in Rome called Dostoevsky, which is an in-house production for Sky and will be available for streaming on NOW TV.

Laura Samani

Damiano and Fabio D’Innocenzo

CELEBRATING 50 YEARS OF AMERICAN EDUCATION IN ITALY

LAGO DI NEMI

Lago di Nemi is a small and unique volcanic lake where divers in the 19th century discovered two large ships built for the notorious Roman emperor Caligula at the bottom of the lake, filled withbottom of the lake, filled with artworks and treasures. Replicas of the ships along with other artefacts are on display at the nearby Museum of Roman Ships. Travellers can also visit the natural caves around the lake, which were a favourite haunt of 19th-century foreign artists such as Turner. Nemi is associated with the cult of the Roman goddess Diana, and, for the last 80 years, an annual strawberry festival. Visitors can reach the lake by taking the SS7 Appia southbound as far as Genzano, and then following signs for Nemi.

LAGO DI VICO

Formed by the volcanic activity of Mount Venus, Lago di Vico offers a unique geological backdrop set amid lush woodland and hills. The surrounding nature reserve is a haven for wildlife, but what is most characteristic of the area are the hazel and chestnut plantations. Lakeside campsites and hotels offer swimming, sailing and horse riding. The two towns worth a visit are Ronciglione and Caprarola with its magnificent and recently restored Villa Farnese. Lago di Vico is a 90-minute drive from Rome taking the SS2 Cassia, and turning north at Sutri.

This volcanic crater lake presents visitors with beautiful views of its clear water and surrounding forests. The picturesque towns along the shores serve as popular summer resort areas for Romans, including Castel Gandolfo, home to the summer papal palace whose gardens were recently opened to the public. On the other side of the lake is Palazzolo, a villa bought by Rome’s Venerable English College in 1920 and now open to guests. The towns surrounding the lake are known for their restaurants, shops and fruit farms. Swimming, fishing and boating are among the favourite activities for visitors, and the lake’s beach is located on the western shore. A simple 45-minute train ride from Termini, visitors can reach Lago Albano by taking the FL4 train towards Albano Laziale and

Located on the site of the Vulsini volcano, dormant since about 100 BC, this crater lake has two islands and is surrounded by rolling hills and vegetation. The area around Montefisascone on the southeast shore of the lake is famous for its Est! Est!! Est!!! wine. The town of Bolsena in the northeast is a popular tourist resort in summer and it is here that the famous so-called Eucharistic Miracle took place in 1263 when a Bohemian priest is said to have seen blood coming from the host that he had just consecrated at Mass. Capodimonte on the southwest of the lake

The lakeside area provides activities for sports and nature enthusiasts all year round. The best way to reach Lago di Bolsena from Rome is by car, as buses to Bolsena from Termini

LAGO DI BRACCIANO

Just north-west of Rome along the Via Cassia, Lake Bracciano is one of the most easily accessible lakes for Romans. The ban on motor boats (except for a little ferry) means it remains an ideal spot for swimming, sailing and canoeing. The Lega Navale operates a dinghy sailing school in Anguillara. Churches and historic sites are located in the three small towns around the lake: Bracciano, Trevignano and Anguillara. There are also places for camping and horse riding tours by the lake, which is just an hour on the Viterbo train line from Rome’s Ostiense station. The lake is overlooked by the 15th-century Orsini-Odescalchi castle in Bracciano, often chosen as the venue for jet-set weddings, and there is also an air force museum at nearby Vigna di Valle.

LAGO DI MARTIGNANO

This tiny volcanic lake just to the east of Lake Bracciano offers clean water and beaches with scenic views of the surrounding meadows and wildlife. Lago di Martignano is known for its outdoor activities such as horse riding, hiking, mountain biking and swimming. Umbrellas, loungers and luggage storage are available to rent along with canoes, sailboats and windsurfing equipment. It is also known for the hot sulphurous springs surrounding the lake. Arriving at Lago di Martignano by car is the easiest option. Reaching the lake by public transport involves taking the FM3 train to Cesano and opting for either a local bus or taxi.

ARTandSEEK

English-language cultural workshops and visits to museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforkids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandseekforkids.com.

Bioparco

Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and o ers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it.

Bowling Silvestri

is sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.

ere are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com.

Casa del Parco

Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com.

Casina di Ra aello

Play centre in Villa Borghese o ering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Ra aello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadira aello.it.

UK NATIONAL SETTLED IN ITALY BEFORE 1

JANUARY 2021?

Make sure your residency in Italy is easily recognised. Request your new Carta di Soggiorno Elettronica from your local Questura as soon as possible. And don’t get confused…it isn’t the same thing as your electronic ID card.

Find out more on gov.uk/livinginitaly

Cinecittà World

is 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special e ects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it.

Climbing

Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, urs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473.

Explora

e 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it.

Go-karting

Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it.

Gymboree

is children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, o ering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it.

Hortis Urbis

Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it.

Il Nido

Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.

Luneur

Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it.

Rainbow Magicland

e 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it.

Time Elevator

A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. e time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it.

Zoomarine is amusement and aquatic park outside Rome o ers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

ROME'S MAJOR MUSEUMS

IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS DETAILS. IN SOME CASES RESERVATIONS ARE REQUIRED.

VATICAN MUSEUMS

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00.

Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS

Baths of Diocletian

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30.

Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna

Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

CITY MUSEUMS

Centrale Montemartini

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Capitoline Museums

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

MATTATOIO

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS

Casa di Goethe

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Chiostro Del Bramante

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

Galleria Colonna

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, rst Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.

Museo storico della Liberazione

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Palazzo Merulana

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www. -maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Multidisciplinary venue devoted to visual art, design, architecture and fashion design at Palazzo Brancaccio. Via Merulana 248, tel. 0631709949, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Del ni, Via dei Del ni 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespeci c exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pasti cio Cerere

This non-pro t foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pasti ciocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created speci cally for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at a ordable prices by artists working in various elds. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo

Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works speci cally for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-pro le international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Galleria Russo

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.

Galleria Varsi

A dynamic gallery promoting street culture and contemporary art movements. Via di A ogalasino 34, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Gavin Brown's Enterprise

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of di erent generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

La Nuova Pesa

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino d’Arte Moderna

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Monitor

This contemporary art gallery o ers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Nero Gallery

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.

Nomas Foundation

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Plus Arte Puls

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

Sala 1

This internationally known non-pro t contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

The Gallery Apart

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

TraleVolte

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

Von Buren Contemporary

Rome-based gallery specialising in a ordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via Giulia 13, tel. 3351633518, www.vonburencontemporary.com.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria o ers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

where to go in Rome

WHAT’S ON

Kusama Yayoi, Zucca, 1988. L'Iris e la Zucca at the Istituto Giapponese di Cultura. See page 24.

EXHIBITIONS

THE IRIS AND THE PUMPKIN

26 JAN-21 APRIL

The Japanese Cultural Institute celebrates its 60th anniversary in Rome with an exhibition of 24 works by some of Japan’s most celebrated artists. The exhibition is centred around two works – Iris by Yamaguchi Hōshun and Pumpkin by Kusama Yayoi – illustrating the cultural activity of the institute over the past six decades. Accompanied by archive photographs and documents, the show features works by artists including Munakata Shikō, Ikeda Masuo, Dōmoto Inshō, Yokoo Tadanori, Lee U Fan, Teshigahara Sōfu and Kodama Kibō. Free entry, for visiting details see website. Istituto Giapponese di Cultura, Via Antonio Gramsci 74, www.jfroma.it

ROMA SILENZIOSA BELLEZZA

20 JAN-28 FEB

Rome’s Vittoriano complex in Piazza

Venezia hosts a free multimedia exhibition recalling the “silent beauty” of the Eternal City during the covid lockdown in 2020. The exhibition of photographs by Moreno Maggi is accompanied by videomapping images projected on to the nearby Palazzo Venezia builing every evening from 18.30 to 23.30. The exhibition can be visited free of charge Monday to Friday from 09.30 to 19.30 (last admission at 18.45). Vittoriano, Piazza Venezia.

LA ROMA DELLA REPUBBLICA

13 JAN-24 SEPT

The Capitoline Museums presents an exhibition of Roman artefacts from the fifth century BC to the middle of the first century BC. Through a series of archaeological themes and contexts, the exhibition in Palazzo Cafarelli brings to life the characters and transformations of Roman society over the course of five centuries, from the birth of the republic to the creation of the empire. The roughly 1,800 artefacts on display - made from terracotta, ceramics, bronze and stone - mostly come from municipal collections and many of them are usually hidden away in storage. Piazzale Caffarelli, www.museocapitolini.org.

Yamaguchi Hōshun, Iris, 1962. L'Iris e la Zucca at the Japanese Cultural Institute.

La Roma della Repubblica exhibition at Palazzo Caffarelli.

BOB DYLAN: RETROSPECTRUM 16 DEC-30 APRIL

Rome’s MAXXI presents an exhibition of visual art by veteran singer-songwriter Bob Dylan. Titled Retrospectrum, the show features Dylan’s oil paintings, acrylics, watercolours, ink drawings, pastel and charcoal works and a series of iron sculptures. Hailed as “the first European monographic exhibition to explore Dylan’s expansive visual oeuvre”, the show is divided into seven themed sections: Early Works, The Beaten Path, Drawn Blank, New Orleans, Ironworks, Mondo Scripto, and Deep Focus. Organisers say the exhibition marks Dylan’s life-long journey of creating visual art, documenting the transformation of the sources and styles that have inspired and influenced him over the decades. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4, www.maxxi.art.

LIANA MIUCCIO: VISUAL DIARY 18 NOV-12 MARCH

Rome’s municipal modern art gallery hosts Visual Diary, an innovative visual and literary exhibition by Liana Miuccio. The exhibition continues the artist’s ongoing study of identity, memory and migration through the juxtaposition of photographs and videos with excerpts from Pulitzer Prize-winning writer Jhumpa Lahiri. Miuccio’s gaze, in dialogue with Lahiri’s excerpts, explores the search for identity and a sense of place through images of contemporary daily life. Organisers say the exhibition “invites visitors to participate in a collective experience that celebrates the quotidian life which unites us all.” Galleria d’Arte Moderna, Via Francesco Crispi 24, www.galleriaartemodernaroma.it.

ROMA MEDIEVALE 21 OCT-5 FEB

An exhibition at Palazzo Braschi offers the chance to “rediscover the lost face of Rome” between the sixth and 14th centuries, exploring the city’s pivotal role in Christian and Mediaeval Europe. Divided into nine sections, the exhibition aims to raise awareness of Rome in the Middle Ages, through its churches and palaces as well as daily life. There are more than 160 works on display including mosaics, frescoes and statues, from Roman public collections, churches and prestigious institutions such as the Vatican Museums. Organisers say the exhibition will also examine the rich patronage of popes and cardinals, the activity of artists and workshops, and the city’s fascination as “an essential pilgrimage destination even for kings and emperors.” Museo di Roma Palazzo Braschi, Piazza Navona 2, www.museodiroma.it.

Roma Silenziosa Bellezza exhibition at the Vittoriano.

RAOUL DUFY

14 OCT-26 FEB

Palazzo Cipolla hosts an exhibition dedicated to the French Fauvist painter Raoul Dufy (18771953). Known for his colourful, decorative style, the multifaceted Dufy was also a draftsman, printmaker, illustrator and designer. The exhibition, curated by Sophie Krebs and organised in collaboration with the Museum of Modern Art in Paris, features about 150 works, including paintings, drawings, ceramics and fabrics. Organisers say this is the second exhibition on Dufy in Rome, after the 1984 show at the French Academy in Villa Medici. Palazzo Cipolla, Via del Corso 302, www. fondazioneterzopilastrointernazionale. it.

VAN GOGH

8 OCT-26 MARCH

Palazzo Bonaparte in the centre of Rome stages a major show of Van Gogh paintings. The exhibition comprises 50 works including a celebrated self portrait of the artist from 1887, three years before his

death. All the works on display are from the Kröller Müller Museum in Otterlo in the Netherlands. The exhibition makes reference to the places where Van Gogh stayed, with a particular focus on the artist’s time in Paris. Alongside his celebrated self portrait, the exhibition includes The sower (June 1888), The hospital garden in Saint-Rémy (1889), The Ravine (1889) and Sorrowing old man (1890). Located in Piazza Venezia, the 17th-century Palazzo Bonaparte is best known as the home of Maria Letizia Ramolino, Napoleon’s mother, who watched the world go by from the building’s green balcony from 1818 until her death in 1836. Piazza Venezia, www. mostrepalazzobonaparte.it.

L’ELEFANTE E IL COLLE PERDUTO

8 APRIL-5 MARCH

An exhibition at Trajan’s Markets recalls how the skull and left tusk of an extinct elephant species were discovered during excavations to make way for Via dell’Impero in 1932. The surprise discovery came about during frantic works to bulldoze a path through the Velia or Velian hill – a spur between the Oppian Hill and the north side of the Palatine –as part of Mussolini’s plans to connect the Colosseum with Piazza Venezia. The rushed nature of the excavation meant the almost total loss of the garden of Villa Rivaldi, a Renaissance-era palace whose grounds stretched as far as the

Basilica of Maxentius in the Roman Forum. Cutting through the Velia yielded rich archaeological finds from the Roman era, in particular the remains of a domus with wellpreserved frescoes and numerous statues. The unearthed treasures were collected hastily and crated off to city warehouses. The most surprising discovery was made on 20 May 1932, when numerous fossilised remains came to light, among them the elephant skull and tusk. The remains of the elephant are on display alongside archaeological finds, archive film footage and large watercolours of the Villa Rivaldi garden, painted before it was lost forever. Trajan’s Markets, on Via IV Novembre 94, www.mercatiditraiano.it.

Liana Miuccio at Galleria d'Arte Moderna.

Endless Highway by Bob Dylan at MAXXI.

Roma Medievale at Palazzo Braschi. Roman mosaic, S. Luca Evangelista, circa 1230, Vatican Museums.

CLASSICAL

ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA SANDRINE PIAU

1 FEB

Soprano Sandrine Piau, accompanied by pianist David Kadouch, performs music by Schubert, Liszt, Wolf, Schumann, Duparc, Boulanger and Debussy. Sala Sinopoli, 20.30.

ALICE IN WONDERLAND

6, 13 FEB

This show, recommended for children over the age of eight, revolves around the fairy tale with orchestra pieces and songs performed by instrumentalists and singers from the JuniOrchestra Teen, Laboratorio Corale 2 and Schola Cantorum1. Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica.

PAVEL HAAS QUARTET

8 FEB

The Pavel Haas Quartet performs music by Martinů, Bartók and Dvořák. Sala Sinopoli, Auditorium Parco della Musica.

MENDELSSOHN ELIJAH

9-11 FEB

Daniele Gatti conducts the S. Cecilia Orchestra and Chorus in this performance of Elijah (oratorio) by Felix Mendellsohn featuring soprano Marlis Petersen, contralto Michèle Losier, tenor Bernard Richter and baritone Jordan Shanahan. Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica.

IGOR LEVIT

13 FEB

German pianist Igor Levit performs music by Beethoven. Sala Sinopoli, Auditorium Parco della Musica.

MYUNG-WHYN CHUNG

16, 18, 19 FEB

Myung-Whun Chung conducts the S. Cecilia Orchestra in this performance of Brahms’ Symphonies n. 3 and n. 4. Sala

S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica.

AMADEUS: MANFRED HONECK

23-25 FEB

Manfred Honeck directs the S. Cecilia Orchestra and Chorus as they perform music by Mozart, with sopranos Rosa Feola and Lea Desandre, tenor Mauro Peter and bass Davide Giangregorio. Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica.

All concerts take place in the Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30. For full details of tickets and performance times see www.santacecilia.it.

ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA ROMANA

NOTRE-DAME DE PARIS

8-12 FEB

The Balletto di Milano stages a production inspired by the Victor Hugo classic, with choreography by Stephen Delattre and scenography by Marco Pesta. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17.

CHRISTIAN POLTÉRA | KATHRYN STOTT

9 FEB

Violinist Christian Poltéra and pianist Kathryn Stott perform music by Brahms, Prokof’ev, Chopin. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17.

IL VIOLONCELLO SVELATO I

17 FEB

Violinist Giacomo Cardelli and pianist Matteo Cardelli perform music by Beethoven, Schumann, Bridge. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118.

GIUSEPPE GIBBONI | CARLOTTA DALIA

23 FEB

Violinist Giuseppe Gibboni and guitarist Carlotta Dalia perform music by Paganini, Tárrega, Castelnuovo-Tedesco, Piazzolla, Paganini. Teatro Agentina, Largo Argentina.

For full details of tickets and performance times see www. filarmonicaromana.org.

Myung-Whun Chung conducts the S. Cecilia Orchestra.

The Balletto di Milano stages Notre-Dame de Paris

OPERA

TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA AIDA

31 JAN-12 FEB

Michele Mariotti conducts and Davide Livermore directs this opera in four acts by Giuseppe Verdi to an Italian libretto by Antonio Ghislanzoni which had its premiere in Cairo in 1871 and was first

SPORT

SIX NATIONS RUGBY IN ROME

Italy will play three home games in the 2023 edition of the annual Six Nations rugby union championship which kicks off on 4 February and end on 18 March. The Azzurri face defending champions France on 5 February, followed by Ireland on 25 February and Wales on 11 March, with all three matches being played in Rome’s Stadio Olimpico. The 15-match tournament, which is contested by England, France, Ireland,

Theatre

WHO’S AFRAID OF VIRGINIA WOOLF?

31 JAN-12 FEB

Teatro Stabile dell’Umbria presents Chi ha paura di Virginia Woolf, an Italian-language production of the classic play by Edward Albee first staged in 1962. The story examines the complexities of the marriage of a middle-aged couple, Martha and George, played by Sonia Bergamasco and Vinicio Marchioni, directed by Antonio Latella. Teatro Argentina, Largo

performed at Teatro Costanzi in 1881. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

REQUIEM

15 FEB

Michele Mariotti directs Verdi’s opera with the Teatro dell’Opera orchestra and chorus including chorus master Ciro Visco, soprano Elena Stikhina, mezzosoprano Yulia Matochkina, tenor Stefan Pop and bass Giorgi Manoshvili. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma. it.

Italy, Scotland and Wales, will also see Italy play two away games, against England at Twickenham on 14 February and Scotland at Murrayfield on 18 March. All sides will try to avoid being handed the dreaded “wooden spoon” – for finishing in last place – which last year went to Italy. The Azzurri did however end a 36-match losing streak with a victory over Wales in Cardiff on the final day of the championship. As part of the “Rugby and Culture” initiative, Rome’s Capitoline Museums will offer free admission to Six Nations ticket holders during the weekends that the three Italy games are being played in the capital. The offer grants free admission to two people for

di Torre Argentina 52, www. teatrodiroma.net.

IL PICCOLO PRINCIPE

1-12 FEB

Teatro Sistina stages a theatrical adaptation of Antoine de SaintExupéry’s celebrated tale of a little prince who visits various planets including Earth and addresses themes of loneliness, friendship, love and loss. The family-friendly production is described as a mix between prose and installation, a musical and a circus. Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, www.ilsistina.it.

ROUND AND ROUND THE GARDEN

8-12 FEB

The Rome Savoyards & Plays in

LA BAYADERE

25 FEB-2 MARCH

Kevin Rhodes directs La Bayadère by Marius Petipa to the music of Ludwig Minkus. This ballet in three acts is choreographed by Benjamin Pech in this new staging by Teatro dell’Opera di Roma. Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

each ticket holder, with rugby fans entering the Capitoline Museums for free simply by showing their Six Nations tickets. For full details see Federazione Italiana Rugby website, www.federugby.it.

Rome present Round and Round the Garden, a comedy by Alan Ayckbourn, at Teatro Le Salette from 8-12 February. Directed by Sandra Provost, the English-language production is described as "a witty and clever comedy". The cast, in order of appearance, comprises Shane Harnett, Fabiana De Rose, Robert Peter Parker, John Calderone, Rebecca Harold and Elizabeth Christy. Performances take place Wednesday to Friday 8-10 February at 19.30 and Saturday and Sunday 11-12 February at 17.00. Tickets are €15, reduced to €12 for students. For bookings and information contact playsinrome@ yahoo.com or 347-8248661. The theatre is located on Vicolo del Campanile 14, between Borgo Pio and Via della Conciliazione.

Rome hosts three Six Nations rugby games. Photo: Marco Iacobucci Epp / Shutterstock.com.

La Bayadère at Teatro dell'Opera di Roma.

ITALY WELCOMES RETURN OF $20 MILLION WORTH OF ANTIQUITIES

The New York County district attorney’s office has returned 60 antiquities stolen from Italy, including a first-century fresco from Herculaneum, in a repatriation valued at $20 million. The archaeological treasures, which had been smuggled out of Italy and sold illicitly in the US, were presented at the culture ministry headquarters in Rome on 23 January. The artefacts, including statues, vases and bronzes, were recovered thanks to the collaboration between Italy’s Carabinieri art squad – the Command for the Protection of Cultural Heritage (TPC) – and the New York County district attorney’s office. Italian culture minister Gennaro Sangiuliano hailed the repatriation operation as “a great success” as part of efforts to “combat the illicit trafficking of goods that belong to our nation.” The works, looted by tombaroli or tomb raiders in Italy and handled by private dealers, had been sold to public and private collections in the US, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. As a result of the criminal investigation, one major dealer has received a lifetime ban from purchasing antiquities, according to a statement on the culture ministry website. Last year Italy opened a new museum showcasing hundreds of ancient artefacts that were looted from Italian archaeological sites and trafficked abroad before being rescued by art police. The Museo dell’Arte Salvata (Museum of Rescued Art) is housed in the Octagonal Hall at the Baths of Diocletian, part of the National Roman Museum network in Rome.

POMPEII REOPENS HOUSE OF THE VETTII AFTER 20 YEARS

Pompeii has reopened the Casa dei Vettii, a richly frescoed house owned by two men freed from slavery, following a complex 20-year restoration. The House of the Vettii was hailed as “the Sistine Chapel of Pompeii” by the director of the archaeological park Gabriel Zuchtriegel during its inauguration on 10 January.

The site, which includes a garden with statues and fountains, is famed for its frescoes of mythological scenes and erotic art including a depiction of Priapus, god of fertility, with a large phallus balancing on a weighing scales. Built in the second century BC, the house was named after its owners Aulus Vettius Conviva and Aulus Vettius Restitutus who became wealthy by selling wine after they were freed. Despite being buried by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD, the house and its frescoes were well preserved when the site was rediscovered in the late 19th century.

ITALY SHUTS DOWN ITsART

ITsART, the streaming platform dedicated to Italian art and culture, has been put into liquidation after reportedly incurring losses of €7.5 million last year. The pet project of former culture minister Dario Franceschini, ITsART was launched in May 2021 in response to the closure of museums, cinemas and theatres due to Italy’s lockdowns and covid restrictions. The centre-left Francheschini hailed the online platform as “the Netflix of Italian culture” that would offer a “virtual stage” for art, theatre, music and opera, even after the covid pandemic. ITsART provided both free and paid access to Italian culture, with live and ondemand content on offer in Italy as well as abroad. However despite an investment of some €15 million the project failed to get off the ground, bringing in just €246,000 and 141,000 subscribers, according to Italian news reports. Critics also complained that the platform’s cultural content was too similar to that already offered on the channels of state broadcaster RAI. Investment bank Cassa Depositi e Prestiti (CDP), controlled by Italy’s finance ministry, was the main shareholder in ITsART, which it managed together with the Milanbased streaming firm Chili.

In November the CDP reportedly informed the culture ministry – now headed by Gennaro Sangiuliano of the new right-wing coalition – that ITsART was in serious financial difficulty, asking if the government intended to refinance it. The answer was negative and the company was wound up officially on 29 December.

Andy Devane

Display of repatriated artefacts in Rome. Photo Ministero della Cultura.

Casa dei Vettii. Photo Luigi SpinaParco archeologico di Pompei.

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city There are also concerts in many of the churches and sometimes in the museums.

Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com

Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct

Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct

Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct

Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it

Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct

Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com

Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it

MUSIC THE A TRE CINEMA VENUES

TRE MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

classical cinema

RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it

Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com

Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com

RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it

Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are at Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others are at the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Roma Tre, Via Ostienze 234, www.r30.org

Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com

cinema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for weekly updates.

Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for weekly updates.

Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361

Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767

There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome.

Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are at Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others are at the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Roma Tre, Via Ostienze 234, www.r30.org

All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org

There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome.

All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 068553485

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 068553485

Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com

Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825

Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com

Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230

Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825

Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361

Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230

St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it

Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7

S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona

St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it

S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com

Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361

Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068

Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116

Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068

Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361

Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116

Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111

Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361

Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111

Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, ww

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it

dance opera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it

dance opera

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

rock pop

rock pop

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com

Live Alcazar, Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com

Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org

Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it

Atlantico, Viale dell’Oceano Atlantico 271d, tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com

Atlantico, Viale dell’Oceano Atlantico 271d, tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www auditorium.com

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it

Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it

Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it

Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it

Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it

Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it

Live Alcazar, Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com

PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it

Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it

PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it

Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com

Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com

Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com

Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com

Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, www.teatrosangenesio.it

Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 www.teatrosangenesio.it

Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it

Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel. 065898031, www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it

Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

By Kate Zagorski

RIGATONI ALLA GRICIA

Although it often plays second ddle to the famous Roman pasta triumvirate of carbonara, amatriciana and cacio e pepe, la gricia is in many ways the most Roman of them all. Giving equal limelight to both guanciale and pecorino it combines chunks of crunchy pork jowl with a creamy cheese coating to celebrate the very best of local produce.

Sometimes referred to as a ‘white amatriciana’, gricia originated in the countryside around Rome where the skill in balancing just a few ingredients to create something delicious helped to form the backbone of traditional Roman cuisine. It’s now the perfect ‘empty the fridge’ dish; quick, simple and comforting. Be sure to take some time at the end to stir in the pecorino carefully: tossing the pasta, the starchy water and the guanciale fat with the cheese will magically bind everything together right before your eyes.

Ingredients

(Serves 2)

200g rigatoni

200g guanciale

60ml white wine

50g grated pecorino romano

Black pepper

• Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil, add salt and set the pasta to cook for one minute less than the indicated time.

• Trim the rind from the guanciale and cut into 1cm strips.

• Heat a frying pan and add the guanciale, cook for a few minutes until the fat is released and it is turning crispy at the edges. Add the white wine and simmer for 2 minutes to evaporate the alcohol.

• Add the almost cooked pasta to the pan with a good splash of the cooking water, continue to cook for another minute.

• When the pasta is al dente turn o the heat and sprinkle in the pecorino, toss everything together well to thicken and coat the pasta. Add some freshly ground black pepper and serve immediately.

The best cacio e pepe in Rome, seven unmissable restaurants

Cacio e pepe is the quintessential Roman pasta dish, made with simple ingredients but far from simple to prepare. There are those who like it with hand-made tonnarello, and those who prefer spaghetti. Here are the best cacio e pepe restaurants in Rome, according to Puntarella Rossa.

In Testaccio, chef and restaurateur Flavio De Maio serves the finest specialities of Roman cuisine. Flavio's cacio e pepe recipe doesn’t call for a frying pan, but for a ‘mantecatura’ off the heat with pecorino romano, black pepper, the cooking water from the pasta and a dash of olive oil (“to ensure that when the dish cools down, the cheese mixes with the oil and adds a burst of flavour, taking the edge off the pecorino”). Price: €11.

6.

Since Felice Trivelloni opened his osteria in 1936, the restaurant has been something of an institution for Roman cuisine. Their forte is indeed the cacio e pepe; it is plentiful and delicious and made with tonnarelli, cooking water from the pasta, pecorino and olive oil, for an irresistible creaminess. The finishing touch is the way in which it’s served: the pasta, cooking water and pecorino are mixed directly on the customer’s plate. Price: €13.

5.

The cacio e pepe served at Trattoria Da Danilo in Esquillino is definitely one of the most renowned in the city. The most famous dish is, of course, the tonnarelli cacio e pepe, made with olive oil, freshly ground black pepper, cooking water from the pasta and pecorino romano. The difference at Danilo is that the pasta is mixed together directly in the pecorino romano wheel itself. The result is a superb creaminess and an intense flavour. Price: €10.

4. DA CESARE

Here you can enjoy two versions of cacio e pepe, one with dry pasta (spaghetti, rigatoni), or fresh, handmade tonnarelli. Chef Leonardo Vignoli explains that to make cacio e pepe you need to mix the ground black pepper with the grated pecorino romano (which should have been matured for 6 months minimum) and a little cold water, then add the al dente spaghetti and give it a first mix off the heat. You should then

add a generous spoonful of cooking water from the pasta, put it back on the heat and stir it until it is creamy. Price: €9.

3. VYTA ENOTECA REGIONALE DEL LAZIO

At Vyta you can try two versions of cacio e pepe, the classic variety or the summer version: tonnarelli, pecorino romano, fresh pepper, lemon and Roman mint. Here’s the recipe for a 500g serving: cook the tonnarelli in lots of salted water. While the pasta is still on the heat, take a spoonful of the cooking water and put it in a large saucepan. Add ground pepper to the water. Drain the pasta, put in pan and mix. Keep the pan on the heat and mix very slowly, using 100g of pecorino and grated lemon rind. Keep stirring until there’s the creaminess of cacio e pepe. Then add mint leaves. Serve immediately, adding another 50g of pecorino. Price: €13.

2. LA TERRAZZA DELL’HOTEL EDEN

At the Hotel Eden, one of Rome’s most exclusive hotels, award-winning chef Fabio Ciervo is famous for his spaghetti cacio e pepe from Madagascar. He has reinterpreted the Roman pasta dish with thick spaghetti, chicken stock, pecorino romano, rose petals and black pepper from Madagascar. This is without a doubt one of the best cacio e pepe in Rome, but it is very expensive in comparison to our other favourites. Price: €45.

1. ROSCIOLI

Established in 1824 and run by a family spanning four generations, Roscioli is a renowned Roman restaurant. Its menu includes all the classic Roman dishes but the star of the show is the cacio e pepe. And so what’s in theirs? Tonnarelli, pecorino romano, cheese from Moliterno, pecorino that has been matured in the earth from Sogliano and Malaysian pepper. It’s not such a simple list as the mix of cheeses gives the dish a special flavour. At the very end, Javan and Sarawakan pepper are ground together and then toasted as the finishing touch – it’s sensational. Price: €12.

www.puntarellarossa.it

Flavio al Velavevodetto, Via di Monte Testaccio 97, tel. 065744194, www.ristorantevelavevodetto.it

Felice, Via Mastro Giorgio 29, tel. 065746800, www.feliceatestaccio.it

Da Danilo, Via Petrarca 13, tel. 0677200111, www.trattoriadadanilo.com

Da Cesare, Via del Casaletto 45, tel. 06536015, www.trattoriadacesare.it

VyTa, Via Frattina 94, tel. 0647786876, www.vytaenotecalazio.it

La Terrazza Hotel Eden, Via Ludovisi 49, www.dorchestercollection.com/en/rome/hotel-eden

Roscioli, Via dei Giubbonari 21, tel. 066875287, www.salumeriaroscioli.com

7. FLAVIO AL VELAVEVODETTO

DA FELICE

DA DANILO

Associations

American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org

American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org

Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com

Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com

Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli

Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net

Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com

Daughters of the American Revolution

Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

Books

The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

Almost Corner Bookshop

Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942

Anglo American Bookshop

Via delle Vite 27, tel. 066795222

Bibliothèque Centre Culturel

Saint-Louis de France (French)

Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it

La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French)

Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com

Libreria Feltrinelli International

Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Religious

All Saints’ Anglican Church

Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881

Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30

Anglican Centre

Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com

Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org

Bible Baptist Church

Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00

Christian Science Services

Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425

Church of All Nations

Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464

Church of Sweden

Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

International Women’s Club of Rome

tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it

Irish Club of Rome

irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org

Luncheon Club of Rome

tel. 3338466820

Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums

tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org

Professional Woman’s Association

www.pwarome.org

United Nations Women’s Guild

tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com

Welcome Neighbor

tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international)

Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484

Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish)

Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it

Open Door Bookshop

(second hand books English, French, German, Italian)

Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com

Otherwise

Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com

Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it

International Central Gospel Church

Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695

International Christian Fellowship

Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00

Jewish Community

Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061

Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas

Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761

Lutheran Church

Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German)

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church

Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic)

Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00

Roma Baptist Church

Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service

10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese)

Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara

Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091

Rome International Church

Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org

Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico)

Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258

St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church

Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00

St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic)

Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups

Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com

Archè

(HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it

Associazione Centro Astalli

(Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306

Associazione Ryder Italia

(Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it

Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it

Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily

Caritas foreigners’ support centre

Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554

Caritas hostel

Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235

Caritas legal assistance

Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369

Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport

• Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it

• Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it

• Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it

• Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994

• Traffic info tel. 1518

• Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic)

Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00

St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org

Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30

St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal)

Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish)

St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic)

Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30

Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00

Comunità di S. Egidio

Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234

Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen

Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027

Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre

St Paul’s within-the-Walls

Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339

Mason Perkins Deafness Fund

(Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it

Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772

Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza)

Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri”

Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351

Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104

The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma

24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers

• Ambulance tel. 118

• Carabinieri tel. 112

• Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336

• Fire brigade tel. 115

• Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999

• Police tel. 113

• Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355