Wanted in Rome - February 2024 by Wanted in Rome

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THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

WHAT'S+ WHERE TO GO IN ROME

ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS

0 0 0 0 2

CONT

EDITORIALS

MISCELLANY

WHAT'S ON

4. ROME OPENS NEW

14. ROME FOR children 16. STREET ART guide 18. MUSEUMS 22. ART GALLERIES 34. CULTURAL VENUES 39. RECIPE 40. puntarella rossa 42. USEFUL NUMBERS

26. EXHIBITIONS 30. Classical 30. OPERA 32. CULTURE NEWS

Andy Devane

8. INTERVIEW WITH HEAD

OF ROME INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Caitlin Frost

12. SIX NATIONS RUGBY IN ROME: A QUICK GUIDE

DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 PROGETTO GRAFICO: Dali Studio Srl IMPAGINAZIONE: Simona Castellari STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 31/01/2024

THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 16, Numero 2 FEBRUARY 2024 | € 2,00

MUSEUM AND ARCHAEOLOGICAL PARK

CURRENTLY SUSPENDED Copies are on sale at: Newsstands in Rome Anglo American Bookstore, Via della Vite 27 Wanted in Rome, Via di Monserrato 49 Wanted in Rome Via di Monserrato 49 - tel. 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com editorial@wantedinrome.com www.wantedinrome.com www.wantedinmilan.com

WHAT'S+ WHERE TO GO IN ROME

ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS

Paolo Scirpa Ludoscopi. Percorsi comunicanti, n. 183 e 184, 1987 Part of the Emotion exhibition at Chiostro del Bramante, see page XX. Image courtesy of the artist. Photo Adriano Mura.

ENTS 4

ROME OPENS NEW MUSEUM AND ARCHAEOLOGICAL PARK

INTERVIEW WITH HEAD OF ROME INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

SIX NATIONS RUGBY IN ROME: A QUICK GUIDE

26 OPERA

History

ROME OPENS NEW MUSEUM AND ARCHAEOLOGICAL PARK FORMA URBIS MUSEUM ON CAELIAN HILL HOUSES REMAINS OF GIANT MARBLE MAP Andy Devane

ome has opened a new museum and archaeological park in a forgotten corner of one of the capital's famed seven hills – the Caelian – against the backdrop of the Colosseum.

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The Parco Archeologico del Celio and the Museo della Forma Urbis were inaugurated on 11 January by Rome mayor Roberto Gualtieri who hailed the complex as "the latest wonder that our city offers to the whole world".

Visitors to the new Forma Urbis Museum can walk across a glass floor over the original pieces of the ancient map.

The museum houses the remaining fragments of the Forma Urbis Romae, the giant marble map of ancient Rome engraved between 203 and 211 AD during the reign of Emperor Septimius Severus. The last time the remains of the ancient map were seen by the public was a century ago when they were on display in the garden of the Palazzo dei Conservatori on the Capitoline Hill.

with the original fragments placed under a glass floor which is superimposed with Giovanni Battista Nolli's celebrated 1748 Pianta Grande map of Rome. The Celio Archaeological Park is located beside the Case Romane underground complex, with entry from Clivo di Scauro, the little arched road that links the churches of S. Gregorio and SS. Giovanni e Paolo.

The map, which originally measured 18 by 13 metres, was mounted on an interior wall of the Temple of Peace before being destroyed during the Middle Ages when the marble was used as building materials or for making lime.

Nestled between the Colosseum and the Circus Maximus, the newly opened park contains a wealth of epigraphic and architectural material, placed here after being unearthed as part of excavations around the city at the end of the 19th century.

Fragments of the map were unearthed during excavations in the 16th century and scholars estimate that around 10 per cent of the entire map survived.

The site is rich in archaeological history, containing the perimeter foundations of the Divo Claudio, or Temple of Claudius, dating to the first century AD.

The layout of the new Forma Urbis Museum allows visitors to fully enjoy the marble map,

The park is also home to the Casina del Salvi which the city says is destined to return to Wanted in Rome • February 2024 | 5

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its original function as a coffee-house for visitors as well as becoming part of Rome's network of museum buildings offering study rooms to students. Speaking at the inauguration of the park, Rome's superintendent of cultural heritage Claudio Parisi Presicce said that the Caelian Hill has long remained "unknown and inaccessible but today we are finally giving it back to the city." The project is part of a broader transformation of the Celio, with works to soon get underway to reclaim the capital's former Antiquarium which has been in a state of abandonment for almost a century. The newly-opened park and museum will also form part of the city's New Archaeological Walk linking ancient Roman sites around the Roman Forum, Colosseum, Baths of Caracalla and Circus Maximus, incorporating the Caelian, Palatine and Capitoline hills. 6 | February 2024 • Wanted in Rome

How to visit Parco Archeologico del Celio and Museo della Forma Urbis Access to the park is from Viale del Parco del Celio 20-22 and Clivo di Scauro 4. The park is open for free every day from 07.00 until 17.30 (winter) and from 07.00 to 20.00 (summer). The Museo della Forma Urbis is open Tues-Sun 10.00-16.00 (last entry one hour before closing). Both museum and park are closed on 1 May and 25 December. Tickets are required for the museum (but not the park): €9 full price for nonresidents of the city (discounted €6.50), while Rome residents pay €6.50 (or €5.50 reduced). The museum is free to holders of Rome's MIC museum pass. For more information tel. 060608 or see the Sovrintendenza Capitolina ai Beni Culturali website, www.sovraintendenzaroma.it.

Education

INTERVIEW WITH HEAD OF ROME INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL CORINA RADER, HEAD OF SCHOOL, OFFERS INSIGHTS INTO LIFE AT RIS Caitlin Frost

hat is the mission of Rome International School and what makes it unique among other international schools in Rome? At RIS, our mission is to empower global citizens: shaping a world of empathy,

Rome International School

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unity, and sustainability through holistic education. We are a Global Community of Changemakers: Shaping a future where diversity, empathy, and sustainability thrive. What sets RIS apart is its location; being in the heart of Rome - being the closest

Education international school to downtown Rome, while also being in the heart of nature – being set in a nature reserve in forest of Monte Mario. Another thing that sets us apart is our commitment to educating the whole child – socially, emotionally, academically, and equip with life-skills for an ever changing world, for a future that is unknown. We are the only school in Rome that offers the International Baccalaureate (IB) continuum starting with Primary Years Programme from Early Years to Elementary and ending with the Diploma Programme in Y13. We provide both a rigorous International IB curriculum, and a supportive, inclusive environment that values individual growth alongside academic achievement. How many nationalities are there among the RIS student body and what is the ratio between Italian and non-Italian students? Our student body represents over 60 nationalities, creating a rich tapestry of cultures and perspectives within our classrooms. While the exact ratio between Italian and non-Italian students may vary each academic year, we strive to maintain a balanced and inclusive environment where all students feel valued and supported. What role does the school's location in a city so steeped in history and culture play in the education of RIS students? Being situated in Rome, a city steeped in history and culture, provides unparalleled opportunities for experiential learning. Our students have access to amazing facilities and outdoor opportunities at RIS with our outdoor learning center, nature walking path that surrounds the campus, 2 indoor gyms, 3 separate lunchrooms (1 – Early Years, 1 – Elementary, and 1 – Middle High School) and a modern building set in the ancient city of Rome providing our students the opportunity to visit countless museums, archaeological sites, and cultural events, enriching their educational experience

Rome International School

beyond the confines of the classroom. This unique setting serves as a living laboratory, inspiring curiosity and fostering a deep appreciation for the world around them. Do you have plans to enhance any specific areas of your curriculum in the future? RIS is constantly evolving to meet the needs of our students and prepare them for the challenges of tomorrow. While our core curriculum remains anchored in the IB framework, we continuously seek ways to enhance and expand our offerings, particularly in STEAM (Science, Technology, Engineering, Arts, and Mathematics) education, Artificial Intelligence, digital literacy, Eco-school, and sustainability initiatives. Wanted in Rome • February 2024 | 9

Education

Rome International School

What type of after-school activities do you provide and how important is learning beyond the classroom? We offer a diverse range of after-school activities tailored to students' interests and talents, including sports, arts, music, drama, coding, MUN, Duke of Edinburg, Chess, Debate, Robotics and community service projects. These activities not only provide opportunities for personal growth and skill development but also complement classroom learning by fostering creativity, collaboration, and leadership skills. How would you assess Rome's private international school market? Rome's private international school market is dynamic and competitive, reflecting the city's status as a global hub for embassies, NGOs, expatriates and international families. While there are several excellent institutions in the area, RIS distinguishes itself through its unique international program, 10 | February 2024 • Wanted in Rome

outdoor learning, multicultural community, commitment to academic excellence and holistic development, and being part of a wider network of schools within Globeducate which provides RIS the opportunity to take part in many internetwork events such as: Student Leadership at Stonar in the UK, Arts Competitions, Academic Olympics at ICS Paris, International Music Festival at Agora Barcelona International School, Model United Nations (MUN) at Agora Madrid International School, Global Olympics at Agora Granada College International School. Where do most students go after RIS? Our graduates are well-prepared to pursue further education at top universities around the world, thanks to the rigorous academic preparation and holistic development they receive at RIS. Many alumni choose to continue their studies at prestigious institutions both in Italy and abroad, while others embark on diverse career paths or entrepreneurial ventures.

IN COLLABORAZIONE CON

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Sport

SIX NATIONS RUGBY IN ROME: A QUICK GUIDE ITALY FACE ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND AT STADIO OLIMPICO IN ROME

oItaly will play two home games in the 2024 edition of the annual Six Nations rugby union championship which kicks off on 3 February and ends on 16 March. The Azzurri will face England on 3 February and Scotland on 9 March, with both matches being played in Rome's Olympic Stadium. The 15-match tournament – contested by England, France, Ireland, Italy, Scotland and Wales – will see Italy play three away

Marco Iacobucci Epp / Shutterstock.com.

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games: against defending champions Ireland in Dublin on 11 February, against France in Lille on 25 February and against Wales in Cardiff on 16 March. All sides will try to avoid being handed the dreaded "wooden spoon" – for finishing in last place – which last year went to Italy. Argentine Gonzalo Quesada recently took over from New Zealander Kieran Crowley as the head coach of the Azzurri whose captain is 25-year-old Michele Lamaro.

Sport For full details of the 2024 tournament, including tickets, see the websites of the Six Nations www.sixnationsrugby.com and the Federazione Italiana Rugby (FIR) www. federugby.it. How to get to Stadio Olimpico By public transport: From Termini station, take the Metro A line in the direction of Battistini, getting out at Ottaviano (6 stops away, in the Vatican area). From there take the No. 32 bus to Piazzale della Farnesina and make the short walk to the stadium. Alternatively take the Metro A line in the direction of Battistini and get out at Flaminio (4 stops) then take the No. 2 tram to its terminus at Piazza Mancini (7 stops). From there cross over the Ponte Duca d'Aosta bridge to the stadium. By foot: The stadium is located around six km from the centre of Rome, or about four km from the Ottaviano area. It is roughly a 40-minute walk from Flaminio, a popular option for many. Taxi: Visitors to Rome who wish to reach the stadium by taxi are advised to give themselves plenty of time and not leave it until the last minute as traffic can be heavy on match days. The city's main taxi companies are 063570 and 060609. Rome taxi cooperative Samarcanda (065551) is known for its excellent customer service. Sustainable transport: Other options include car-sharing companies such as Enjoy www. enjoy.eni.com, electric motorcycle sharing outfits like eCooltra (www.cooltra.com) or electric scooter and bicycle sharing operators Bird (www.bird.co), Dott (www.ridedott. com) and Lime (www.li.me). The stadium has nearby parking facilities for bicycles. Useful apps: Handy transport apps in Rome include journey-planners Moovit and MooneyGo!. The city's public transport company is ATAC, with traffic news available on the municipal mobility website, www.

Marco Iacobucci Epp / Shutterstock.com.

atac.roma.it. Best pubs in Rome to watch Six Nations For the biggest screens, party atmosphere and commentary in English, it would be hard to beat Scholars Lounge (Via del Plebiscito 101/b) just off the central Piazza Venezia – Rome's largest Irish pub and past winner of the world's Irish Pub of the Year. Italian rugby fans cram into the rugby-mad The Shamrock (Via del Colosseo 1/c) or Camden Town (Via Ostilia 30) – two Irish pubs on opposite sides of the Colosseum – with a lively atmosphere guaranteed in both places. The Fiddler’s Elbow (Via dell’Olmata 43) and the Druid’s Den ((Via di S. Martino Ai Monti 28) – Rome's oldest and third-oldest Irish pub respectively – screen the games to their customers who are generally a mix of Italian and foreign. Finnegans (Via Leonina 66), in the heart of the Monti quarter, also screens the Six Nations and attracts a large Englishspeaking crowd, mainly from the UK and Ireland. Other popular pubs showing the rugby games include the Abbey Theatre (Via del Governo Vecchio 51) near Piazza Navona, The Highlander in the historic centre (Vicolo di S. Biagio 9), and The Nag's Head (Via IV November 138/b) near Piazza Venezia. Wanted in Rome • February 2024 | 13

ARTandSEEK English-language cultural workshops and visits to museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforkids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandseekforkids.com. Bioparco Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and offers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it. Bowling Silvestri This sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.

14 | February 2024 • Wanted in Rome

There are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com. Casa del Parco Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com. Casina di Raffaello Play centre in Villa Borghese offering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Raffaello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadiraffaello.it.

Cinecittà World This 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special effects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it. Climbing Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, Thurs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473. Explora The 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it. Go-karting Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it. Gymboree This children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, offering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it. Hortis Urbis Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it. Il Nido Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.

Luneur Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it. Rainbow Magicland The 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it. Time Elevator A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. The time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it. Zoomarine This amusement and aquatic park outside Rome offers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.

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Rome’s street artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant important street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre. Here is where to is find Rome’s mainthe street artstreet projects murals. from the centre. Here where to find main artand projects and murals around Rome. Esquilino Esquilino Murals Murals byby Alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Pistone, Nicola Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, Diamond. PiazzaMafredo Manfredo Fanti 47. Piazza Fanti 47.

Marconi Marconi The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artistSeth Seth is located in a street artist is located in a former former soap factory Via Antonio soap factory on Viaon Antonio AvogaAvogadro, opposite dro, opposite Ostiense'sOstiense’s landmark Gasometro. For For details see landmark Gasometro. details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com.

Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz Metropoliz This This former former meat meat factory factory inin the the outskirts of Rome is nowa astreet street outskirts of Rome is now art art museumasaswell well as as being museum being home hometoto some200 200squatting squatters,migrants. many of The them some migrants. The Museo dell’Altrodi e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altroveor diMAAM, Metropoliz, or MAAM, Metropoliz, is only open is only open on Saturdays, and on Saturdays, and features the work features the work of more than 300 of more than 300 artists including artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Edoardo Kobra, and GioDiamond. Pistone, Pistone, Sten&Lex See Sten&Lex, Pablo Echaurren and MAAM Facebook page for details. Borondo. See MAAM Via Prenestina 913. Facebook page for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense Ostiense Fronte Del by by Blu.Blu. Via Via del Porto Fronte Del Porto Porto del Fluviale. Porto Fluviale. Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Fluviale. Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Magazzini Shelley by Generali. Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense. Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Pigneto Ostiense. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Pigneto Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

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Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi. Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Fortebraccio. 2501 mural on Via Blu Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Francesco Baracca. Francesco Baracca. Prati Prati Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo Nuovo Mercato Trionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria. theSabotino. bear by Andrea Doria. Daniza the bear byDaniza ROA. Via ROA. Via Sabotino. Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Magee. Via Via The by Fintan Cristoforo Numai. Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals andand Gio Tunnel muralsby byMr MrTHOMS THOMS Pistone. Via Decio Mure.Mure. Gio Pistone. Via Decio Nido di di Vespe ViaVia del Nido VespebybyLucamaleonte. Lucamaleonte. Monte del Grano. del Monte del Grano. Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89. Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by byBlu. Blu.Via ViaCiciliano Ciciliano and and Via Via Murals Palombini (Casal Palombini (Casaldè dèPazzi). Pazzi). Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station. Metro B station. S.S. Basilio Basilio SanBa SanBa features features large-scale large-scale works on on the façades façades of in the of social-housing social-housingblocks blocks the disadvantaged north-east suburb of in the disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerasuburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. tion project includes works by Italian The project artistsregeneration Agostino Iacurci, Hitnesincludes and Blu works by Italian artists alongside Spain's Liqen. ViaAgostino Maiolati, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Spain’s Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, S. Giovanni Via Treia. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S. Giovanni Apulia corner of Via Farsalo. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

It’s aa New NewDay Daybyby Alice Pasquini. It’s Alice Pasquini. Via Via Anton Ludovico. Anton Ludovico. S. Lorenzo S. Lorenzo Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Feminicide mural by Elisa Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo. Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi. Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Mural by by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Via Aquilonia. Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia. S. Pietro S. Pietro Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S. di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo. Gallo. Testaccio Testaccio Hunted byby ROA. ViaVia Galvani. HuntedWolf Wolf ROA. Galvani. #KindComments by by Alice Pasquini, Via #KindComments Alice Pasquini, Volta, Testaccio market. Via Volta, Testaccio market. Tor Pignattara Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via ViaAntonio AntonioTempesta. Tempesta. Dulk. Etnik.Via ViaBartolomeo Bartolomeo Perestrello Etnik. Perestrello 51. Break Etam Cru. Via 51. Coﬀee Coffee Break by Etamby Cru. Via Ludovico Pavoni. Ludovico Pavoni. Tom by Jef Via Gabrio TomSawyer Sawyer by Aerosol. Jef Aerosol. Via Serbelloni. Gabrio Serbelloni. Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema PasoliniVia by Acqua Diavù.Bullicante. Former Cinema Impero, Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Alessi. Herakut. Capua 14. GaleazzoVia Alessi. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Herakut. Via Capua 14. Oddi 6. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia Tor Big Marancia The City Life scheme features 14-m Big City Life scheme The tall murals by 22 Italian and features interna14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and tional street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia andartists Jerico.including The idea international street was to transform area's of Mr Klevra, Seth,the Gaia andblocks Jerico. flats into an open-air art museum. Via The idea was to transform the area’s Tor Marancia. www.bigcity.life.it. blocks of ﬂats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth. Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Wanted in Rome • February 2024 | 17

ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS DETAILS. IN SOME CASES RESERVATIONS ARE REQUIRED. VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

18 | February 2024 • Wanted in Rome

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Capitoline Museums

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

MATTATOIO

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Museo Canonica

Palazzo Merulana

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

ROME'S MAJOR

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Borghese Museum

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Crypta Balbi

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Capitoline Museums

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

MATTATOIO

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Keats-Shelley House

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

Palazzo Merulana

Museo Napoleonico

Wanted in Rome • February 2024 | 21

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ff-maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Multidisciplinary venue devoted to visual art, design, architecture and fashion design at Palazzo Brancaccio. Via Merulana 248, tel. 0631709949, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Delfini, Via dei Delfini 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pastificio Cerere

This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

22 | February 2024 • Wanted in Rome

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at affordable prices by artists working in various fields. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo

Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Galleria Russo

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.

Galleria Varsi

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Plus Arte Puls

A dynamic gallery promoting street culture and contemporary art movements. Via di Affogalasino 34, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

Gavin Brown's Enterprise

Sala 1

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

La Nuova Pesa

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino d’Arte Moderna

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Monitor

This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Nero Gallery

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.

Nomas Foundation

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

The Gallery Apart

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

TraleVolte

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

Von Buren Contemporary

Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via Giulia 13, tel. 3351633518, www.vonburencontemporary.com.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

Wanted in Rome • February 2024 | 23

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Via di Villa Lauchli 180, 00191 Rome Tel: +39 06 362 91012 admissions@marymountrome.com 24 | February 2024 • Wanted in Rome www.marymountrome.com

where to go in Rome

WHAT’S ON

Museo di Roma in Trastevere dedicates an exhibition to Rino Gaetano. Photo © Donatella Rimoldi. See page XX.

Wanted in Rome • February 2024 | 25

EXHIBITIONS RINO GAETANO 16 FEB-28 APRIL

Rome remembers the popular singer-songwriter Rino Gaetano with a new exhibition at the Museo di Roma in Trastevere, more than four decades after the artist's untimely death at the age of 30. The show, the first of its kind in honour of Gaetano, will feature memorabilia relating to the artist including archive footage, documents, musical instruments, his stage clothes and hat collection, with many items on public display for the first time. Best remembered for hits including the jaunty Ma il cielo è sempre più blu and the ballad Aida, Gaetano was known for his rough voice and for taking aim at politics with his satirical songs. Born in Calabria in Italy's southern Calabria region in 1950, Gaetano moved to Rome as a child. He died in a car crash in the Italian capital on 2 June 1981, two days after his last television appearance when he sang the title track of his final album E io ci sto. Museo di Roma in Trastevere, Piazza di S. Egidio 1/b, www.museodiromaintrastevere.it.

EMOTION

29 NOV-7 JAN 2025

Rome’s Chiostro del Bramante presents a new contemporary art exhibition devoted to the range of emotions that inspire artists as well as the feelings that artworks conjure up in the spectator. Curated by Danilo Eccher, the exhibition features works by Italian and international artists including AES+F, Mat Collishaw, Subodh Gupta, Carsten Höller, Eva Jospin, Kimsooja, Luigi Mainolfi, Masbedo, Annette Messager, Paul Morrison, Luigi Ontani, Tony Oursler, Piero Pizzi Cannella, Laure Prouvost, Pietro Ruffo, Alessandro Sciaraffa, Gregor Schneider, Paolo Scirpa, Nedko Solakov and Adrian Tranquilli. Chiostro del Bramante, Via Arco della Pace 5, www.chiostrodelbramante.it. See cover of this edition.

26 | February 2024 • Wanted in Rome

Inverso Mundus by AES+F in the Emotion exhibition at Chiostro del Bramante.

FIDIA

Villa Caffarelli, Capitoline Museums, www.museicapitolini.org.

The Capitoline Museums pay tribute to Phidias, hailed as the greatest Greek sculptor of the classical age, with an exhibition of masterpieces by the fifth-century BC genius. The exhibition includes around 100 works including some ancient Greek artefacts that have never left their museums in Greece until now, as well as bronzes, paintings, manuscripts, drawings and multimedia installations. Among the masterpieces on display are two original fragments of the Parthenon frieze, on loan from the Acropolis Museum in Athens; a vase engraved with the inscription Pheidiou eimi (I am Phidias) from the Archaeological Museum of Olympia; and the so-called Strangford Shield, a replica of the shield of the Athena in the Parthenon, on loan from the British Museum. The exhibition in Rome inaugurates a cycle of five shows under the title The Great Masters of Ancient Greece.

DACIA: L’ULTIMA FRONTIERA DELLA ROMANITÀ

24 NOV-5 MAY

21 NOV-21 APRIL

The Museo Nazionale Romano at the Baths of Diocletian presents the largest and most prestigious exhibition of archaeological finds organised by Romania abroad in recent decades. The exhibition retraces the historical and cultural development of the Dacian civilisation from the eighth century BC to the eighth century AD. Around 1,000 objects from 47 Romanian museums will be presented, as well as from the National Museum of History in the Republic of Moldova, exhibited for the first time alongside some finds from the National Roman Museum. The exhibition features priceless artefacts including the marble Glycon serpent from Tomis, the Golden Helmet of Coţofenești, the bronze Celtic helmet from Ciumeşti, and the Pietroasele

Rome pays tribute to Phidias, hailed as the greatest Greek sculptor of the classical age, with an exhibition at the Capitoline Museums.

Treasure. Terme di Diocleziano, Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, www. museonazionaleromano.beniculturali.it/terme-di-diocleziano.

TOLKIEN: UOMO, PROFESSORE, AUTORE 15 NOV-11 FEB

Italy will mark the 50th anniversary of the death of British fantasy writer J.R.R. Tolkien with a major exhibition at the National Gallery of Modern Art (GNAM) in Rome. The show comprises more than 150 works including photographs, documents, letters and virtual reconstructions of the first editions of The Lord of the Rings books from which the blockbuster fantasy trilogy by director Peter Jackson is based. GNAM, Viale delle Belle Arti 131, www.lagallerianazionale.com.

THE TOUCH OF PYGMALION: RUBENS AND SCULPTURE IN ROME 14 NOV-18 FEB

Galleria Borghese stages an exhibition that examines how the Flemish Baroque master Peter Paul Rubens was affected by his travels in Italy in the early 17th century. During his time in Italy Rubens was profoundly influenced by Titian and Caravaggio as well as Renaissance masters Michelangelo, Raphael and Leonardo da Vinci. He also studied classical Greek and Roman art and copied works of the Italian masters, animating the antique in a style that would become known as Baroque. The exhibition investigates how the artist’s work took on a new and decisive force in the years following his return to his homeland. Exhibition organisers say the show “highlights the extraordinary contribution made by Rubens to a new conception of the antique, of the concepts of natural and imitation, on the threshold of the Baroque.” Galleria Borghese, Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5, www.galleriaborghese. beniculturali.it.

VAN GOGH EXPERIENCE 28 OCT-31 MARCH

Rome hosts an immersive, multimedia exhibition dedicated to the

Ancora qualche millimetro di libertà by Pietro Ruffo at the Emotion exhibition at Chiostro del Bramante. Photo Adriano Mura.

world of Vincent Van Gogh. The experience involves the use of video mapping and multimedia projections to conjure up the swirling landscapes, starry nights and sunflowers painted by the Dutch artist. Organisers say that visitors will be “living protagonists” in the artist’s paintings: “under your feet the pebbles he painted, between your fingers the dazzling yellow of his thousand sunflowers.” Thanks to virtual reality technology, visitors will also have the chance to see the world “through Van Gogh’s eyes”. The show, which does not include original paintings by the artist, is presented by Next Exhibition and is held at the former Cinema Avila on Corso d’Italia 37d. For tickets and visiting times see website, www.nextmuseum.net.

ESCHER

31 OCT-1 APRIL

Palazzo Bonaparte displays 300 works by Maurits Cornelius Escher (1898-1972) in what organisers boast is the “largest and most complete exhibition ever dedicated” to the Dutch graphic artist. The blockbuster show includes the artist’s best known images as well as numerous works never shown in public before. Highlights include Hand with reflecting sphere (1935), Bond of Union (1956), Day and Night (1938) and Metamorphosis II (1939). Escher is famed for his mathematically-inspired woodcuts, lithographs and mezzotints featuring visually stunning designs that explore the seemingly impossible limits of architecture and infinity. Fascinated by geometrical shapes, Escher distorted Wanted in Rome • February 2024 | 27

The Thracian Golden Helmet of Coţofenești is on display in the Dacia exhibition at the Baths of Diocletian.

perspective and parallax to create scenes in which the eye is deceived, often leaving the viewer confounded. The artist travelled extensively in Italy, living with his wife and son in Rome’s Monteverde district from 1923 until the fascist political climate prompted the family’s departure to Switzerland in 1935. Piazza Venezia 5, www.mostrepalazzobonaparte.it.

FAVOLOSO CALVINO 14 OCT-4 FEB

On the centenary of the birth of Italo Calvino, an exhibition at the Scuderie del Quirinale celebrates the Italian writer and his relationship with the arts. The exhibition highlights the creative path of the writer, who died in 1985, by displaying art that inspired his writings, imagination and theories. The show comprises more than 200 works including paintings,

Galleria Borghese stages a major exhibition devoted to Rubens.

sculptures, drawings, illustrations by artists from the Renaissance to today, medieval illuminated manuscripts and tapestries. The show includes masterpieces by artists including Carpaccio, de Chirico, Gnoli, Melotti, Escher and Paul Klee alongside portraits of the writer by photographers Carla Cerati and Sebastião Salgado. The exhibition also includes many original volumes and first editions of Calvino’s books, displayed with some of the author’s most famous quotations. Ogranisers say the art on display illustrates Calvino’s journey through life including “choices, political and civil commitment, places and above all literary production”. Calvino is best known internationally for his Cosmicomics collection of short stories (1965) and the novels Invisible Cities (1972) and If on a winter’s night a traveler (1979). Scuderie del Quirinale, Via Ventiquattro Maggio 16, www.scuderiequirinale.it.

28 | February 2024 • Wanted in Rome

HELMUT NEWTON: LEGACY 6 OCT-3 MARCH

Rome’s Ara Pacis Museum presents an exhibition featuring around 250 photographs by the famed photographer. Newton (1920-2004) was one of the most influential and controversial photographers of the 20th century, achieving international fame in the 1970s as a celebrity photographer while working for Vogue magazine. His images were often of a seductive, even gritty nature, and he favoured working in the street over the studio. The exhibition in Rome will feature a selection of his most iconic images alongside previously unpublished works, providing insights into this work and creative process. The exhibition spans Newton’s entire sixdecade career, from fashion magazine covers to his celebrated Big Nudes series. Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, www.arapacis.it.

LA ROMA DELLA REPUBBLICA 13 JAN-24 MARCH

The Capitoline Museums presents an exhibition of Roman artefacts from the fifth century BC to the middle of the first century BC. Through a series of archaeological themes and contexts, the exhibition in Palazzo Caffarelli brings to life the characters and transformations of Roman society over the course of five centuries, from the birth of the republic to the creation of the empire. The roughly 1,800 artefacts on display - made from terracotta, ceramics, bronze and stone - mostly come from municipal collections and many of them are usually hidden away in storage. Piazzale Caffarelli, www.museocapitolini.org.

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For more info about the BA programs, contact admissions@johncabot.edu Wanted in Rome • February 2024 | 29 For info about the MA programs, contact graduatestudies@johncabot.edu

CLASSICAL ACCADEMIA NAZIONALE DI S. CECILIA ANTONIO PAPPANO 3-5 FEB

Sir Antonio Pappano conducts the orchestra and chorus of the Accademia Nazionale di S. Cecilia in a performance of Verdi’s Messa da Requiem, with soprano Masabane Cecilia Rangwanasha, mezzosoprano Elina Garança, tenor SeokJong Baek and bass Giorgi Manoshvili. The concerts are dedicated to the memory of Claudio Abbado on the 10th anniversary of his death. 3 Feb 18.00, 4 Feb 18.00, 5 Feb 20.30. Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica.

JAKUB HRUSA 8-10 FEB

Jakub Hrůša conducts the orchestra and chorus of the Accademia Nazionale di S. Cecilia, with violist Pinchas Zukerman, performing music by Berlioz and Martinů. 8 Feb 19.30, 9 Feb 20.30, 10 Feb 18.00. Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica.

JULIAN PREGARDIEN / DANIEL HEIDE 14 FEB

Pianist Daniel Heide and tenor Julian Prégardien perform Die Winterreise by Schubert. 20.30. Sala Sinopoli, Auditorium Parco della Musica.

STANISLAV KOCHANOVSKY / MARIA DUENAS 15-17 FEB

Stanislav Kochanovsky conducts the orchestra and chorus of the Accademia Nazionale di S. Cecilia, with violinist Maria Dueñas, performing music by Rimsky–Korsakov, Tchaikovsky and Rachmaninoff. 15 Feb 19.30, 16 Feb 20.30, 17 Feb 18.00. Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica.

LANG LANG 19 FEB

The celebrated Chinese pianist Lang Lang performs music by Fauré, Schumann and Chopin. 20.30. Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica.

PAAVO JARVI / AUGUSTIN HADELICH 22-24 FEB

Paavo Järvi conducts the orchestra and chorus of the Accademia Nazionale di S. Cecilia, with violinist Augustin Hadelich, performing music by Debussy, Sibelius and Prokofiev 22 Feb 19.30, 23 Feb 20.30, 24 Feb 18.00.

Sir Antonio Pappano conducts Verdi's

Messa

Requiemfor

Accademia di S. Cecilia.

ALESSANDRO CARBONARE / ENRICO PACE 28 FEB

Alessandro Carbonare, clarinet, and Enrico Pace, piano, perform music by Schumann and Brahms. 20.30. Sala Sinopoli, Auditorium Parco della Musica. All concerts take place in the Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30. For details of tickets and performance times see S. Cecilia website, www.santacecilia.it.

OPERA

composer's death. Teatro Costanzi, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www. operaroma.it.

GIANNI SCHICCI: L’HEUERE ESPAGNOLE

7-16 MARCH

SALOME

7-16 FEB

Teatro dell’Opera di Roma presents Gianni Schicchi, a comic opera in one act by Giacomo Puccini to an Italian libretto by Giovacchino Forzano. Composed in 1917–18, the libretto is based on an incident mentioned in Dante's Divine Comedy. Conducted by Michele Mariotti and directed by Ersan Mondtag, the production

30 | February 2024 • Wanted in Rome

Teatro dell'Opera di Roma stages Salome

is staged in collaboration with the Festival Puccini of Torre del Lago to mark the centenary of the

Teatro dell'Opera di Roma stages Salome, a one-act tragedy by Oscar Wilde, with music by Richard Strauss. The original version of the play was first published in French in 1893; an English translation was published a year later. Conducted by Marc Albrecht and directed by Barrie Kosky, the cast includes John Daszak as Erode, Katarina Dalayman as Erodiade and Lise Lindstrom as Salome. Teatro Costanzi, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

Wanted in Rome • February 2024 | 31

CULTURE NEWS PAOLA CORTELLESI RECEIVES ROME'S TOP HONOUR

Rome actress Paola Cortellesi received the capital’s prestigious Lupa Capitolina award last month following the smash-hit success of her directorial debut C’è ancora domani. Cortellesi's black and white movie, whose title in English is There's Still Tomorrow, has become one of the top 10 highest-grossing Italian films ever in Italy's cinemas since its release last October. The neorealiststyle movie follows the domestic struggles of an abused housewife in post-war Rome, confronting issues related to patriarchy and women's empowerment. The film struck a particular chord in Italy following the brutal murder of student Giulia Cecchettin last November and helped to spur a national debate on violence against women.

Palazzo delle Esposizioni. Photo: Galina Savina / Shutterstock.com.

GET UP CLOSE TO PIERO DELLA FRANCESCA FRESCOES IN AREZZO

Visitors to the Tuscan city of Arezzo are to be offered upclose visits to the famed fresco cycle by Early Renaissance master Piero della Francesca. From 27 January to 12 March 2024, the Bacci Chapel of the Basilica di S. Francesco will give visitors the rare chance to climb the scaffolding used by restorers to view the 15th-century masterpiece. The artist spent more than a decade painting the celebrated fresco cycle known as the Legend of the True Cross, between 1452 and 1466. These beautiful panels centre on the legend of Empress Helena recovering Christ’s true cross during a

Paola Cortellesi receives the Lupa Capitolina. Photo Roma Capitale.

ROME MUSEUMS OPEN STUDY ROOMS FOR STUDENTS

Rome is to create a network of study rooms in its municipal museums and libraries as part of an initiative aimed at providing students with public spaces for studying. The study rooms will be managed by the capital’s public library network and will be made up of spaces made available from the city as well as third parties. Mayor Roberto Gualtieri said the move was part of making Rome a "cutting-edge city for young people" and was aimed particularly at "the tens of thousands of off-campus students forced to study in cramped rooms due to high rents." The initiative will run in parallel to services already provided by city libraries, with longer opening hours and open on holidays, in both the centre and the suburbs. In addition to city buildings and libraries, the study spaces will be housed in Palazzo delle Esposizioni, the Pelanda at the Mattatoio, MACRO, Palazzo Braschi, Casina Salvi al Celio and the Torre dei Conti.

32 | February 2024 • Wanted in Rome

The Legend of the True Cross by Piero della Francesca. Photo: stefano cellai / Shutterstock.com.

pilgrimage to the Holy Land. One panel shows Judas being tortured into revealing the whereabouts of the cross, whose discovery leads to miracles and battles before being returned to Jerusalem by Emperor Heraclius. Another panel portrays Emperor Constantine I being woken by an angel the night before he defeated Maxentius at the Battle of Ponte Milvio in 312 AD. Other celebrated panels depict the Death of Adam and The Meeting of Solomon and the Queen of Sheba. The frescoes can now be seen at close range, for a limited period, as part of the project All’altezza di Piero. Visits last about an hour and can be booked on the www.museoarezzo.it website.

Andy Devane

A rewarding education that prepares students for life. Ages 2 to 18.

Book a School Visit!

06 844 82 650 / 651 www.romeinternationalschool.it Wanted in Rome • February 2024 | 33

lassical lassical

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city. The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city. There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums. Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All

concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica. Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza,

Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone 32a, RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome.

often concerts, festivals and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and7 the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards. Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com 5034 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Romein Rome | February 2024 • Wanted

MUSIC MUSIC THEATR THEATRE CINEMA CINEMA VENUES VENUES

MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

inema inema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wantedshow in Rome website for The following cinemas movies in English weekly updates. or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for Adriano, Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 weeklyPiazza updates. Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 0686391361 Barberini, Piazza BarberiniMastroianni 24-26, 1, tel. Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello 0686391361 tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 068553485 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 068553485 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 066861068 Odeon, Piazza Stefano 22, tel. Nuovo Sacher, LargoJacini Ascianghi 1, 0686391361 tel. 065818116

Space Moderno, Piazza della 44, tel. Odeon, Piazza Stefano JaciniRepubblica 22, tel. 0686391361 06892111 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec06892111 chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

dd p p 38 Wanted in Rome | December 2017

Teatro 06684000314, ww T Teatro Belli, 06684000314, ww ww T Teatro ww Brancaccio, ww T Teatro ww Ghione, ww T Teatro ww 06684000311, ww T 06684000311, ww

ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net 50 | Jan 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel. 14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Wanted51in| Oct Rome • February | 37 2018 • Wanted2024 in Rome

38 | February 2024 • Wanted in Rome

By Kate Zagorski

RIGATONI ALLA GRICIA Although it often plays second fiddle to the famous Roman pasta triumvirate of carbonara, amatriciana and cacio e pepe, la gricia is in many ways the most Roman of them all. Giving equal limelight to both guanciale and pecorino it combines chunks of crunchy pork jowl with a creamy cheese coating to celebrate the very best of local produce. Sometimes referred to as a ‘white amatriciana’, gricia originated in the countryside around Rome where the skill in balancing just a few ingredients to create something delicious helped to form the backbone of traditional Roman cuisine. It’s now the perfect ‘empty the fridge’ dish; quick, simple and comforting. Be sure to take some time at the end to stir in the pecorino carefully: tossing the pasta, the starchy water and the guanciale fat with the cheese will magically bind everything together right before your eyes.

Ingredients (Serves 2)

200g rigatoni 200g guanciale 60ml white wine 50g grated pecorino romano Black pepper

• Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil, add salt and set the pasta to cook for one minute less than the indicated time. • Trim the rind from the guanciale and cut into 1cm strips. • Heat a frying pan and add the guanciale, cook for a few minutes until the fat is released and it is turning crispy at the edges. Add the white wine and simmer for 2 minutes to evaporate the alcohol. • Add the almost cooked pasta to the pan with a good splash of the cooking water, continue to cook for another minute. • When the pasta is al dente turn off the heat and sprinkle in the pecorino, toss everything together well to thicken and coat the pasta. Add some freshly ground black pepper and serve immediately.

The best cacio e pepe in Rome, seven unmissable restaurants Cacio e pepe is the quintessential Roman pasta dish, made with simple ingredients but far from simple to prepare. There are those who like it with hand-made tonnarello, and those who prefer spaghetti. Here are the best cacio e pepe restaurants in Rome, according to Puntarella Rossa. 7. FLAVIO AL VELAVEVODETTO In Testaccio, chef and restaurateur Flavio De Maio serves the finest specialities of Roman cuisine. Flavio's cacio e pepe recipe doesn’t call for a frying pan, but for a ‘mantecatura’ off the heat with pecorino romano, black pepper, the cooking water from the pasta and a dash of olive oil (“to ensure that when the dish cools down, the cheese mixes with the oil and adds a burst of flavour, taking the edge off the pecorino”). Price: €11. 6. DA FELICE Since Felice Trivelloni opened his osteria in 1936, the restaurant has been something of an institution for Roman cuisine. Their forte is indeed the cacio e pepe; it is plentiful and delicious and made with tonnarelli, cooking water from the pasta, pecorino and olive oil, for an irresistible creaminess. The finishing touch is the way in which it’s served: the pasta, cooking water and pecorino are mixed directly on the customer’s plate. Price: €13. 5. DA DANILO The cacio e pepe served at Trattoria Da Danilo in Esquillino is definitely one of the most renowned in the city. The most famous dish is, of course, the tonnarelli cacio e pepe, made with olive oil, freshly ground black pepper, cooking water from the pasta and pecorino romano. The difference at Danilo is that the pasta is mixed together directly in the pecorino romano wheel itself. The result is a superb creaminess and an intense flavour. Price: €10. 4. DA CESARE Here you can enjoy two versions of cacio e pepe, one with dry pasta (spaghetti, rigatoni), or fresh, handmade tonnarelli. Chef Leonardo Vignoli explains that to make cacio e pepe you need to mix the ground black pepper with the grated pecorino romano (which should have been matured for 6 months minimum) and a little cold water, then add the al dente spaghetti and give it a first mix off the heat. You should then

add a generous spoonful of cooking water from the pasta, put it back on the heat and stir it until it is creamy. Price: €9. 3. VYTA ENOTECA REGIONALE DEL LAZIO At Vyta you can try two versions of cacio e pepe, the classic variety or the summer version: tonnarelli, pecorino romano, fresh pepper, lemon and Roman mint. Here’s the recipe for a 500g serving: cook the tonnarelli in lots of salted water. While the pasta is still on the heat, take a spoonful of the cooking water and put it in a large saucepan. Add ground pepper to the water. Drain the pasta, put in pan and mix. Keep the pan on the heat and mix very slowly, using 100g of pecorino and grated lemon rind. Keep stirring until there’s the creaminess of cacio e pepe. Then add mint leaves. Serve immediately, adding another 50g of pecorino. Price: €13. 2. LA TERRAZZA DELL’HOTEL EDEN At the Hotel Eden, one of Rome’s most exclusive hotels, award-winning chef Fabio Ciervo is famous for his spaghetti cacio e pepe from Madagascar. He has reinterpreted the Roman pasta dish with thick spaghetti, chicken stock, pecorino romano, rose petals and black pepper from Madagascar. This is without a doubt one of the best cacio e pepe in Rome, but it is very expensive in comparison to our other favourites. Price: €45. 1. ROSCIOLI Established in 1824 and run by a family spanning four generations, Roscioli is a renowned Roman restaurant. Its menu includes all the classic Roman dishes but the star of the show is the cacio e pepe. And so what’s in theirs? Tonnarelli, pecorino romano, cheese from Moliterno, pecorino that has been matured in the earth from Sogliano and Malaysian pepper. It’s not such a simple list as the mix of cheeses gives the dish a special flavour. At the very end, Javan and Sarawakan pepper are ground together and then toasted as the finishing touch – it’s sensational. Price: €12.

www.puntarellarossa.it

Felice, Via Mastro Giorgio 29, tel. 065746800, www.feliceatestaccio.it Da Danilo, Via Petrarca 13, tel. 0677200111, www.trattoriadadanilo.com Da Cesare, Via del Casaletto 45, tel. 06536015, www.trattoriadacesare.it VyTa, Via Frattina 94, tel. 0647786876, www.vytaenotecalazio.it La Terrazza Hotel Eden, Via Ludovisi 49, www.dorchestercollection.com/en/rome/hotel-eden Roscioli, Via dei Giubbonari 21, tel. 066875287, www.salumeriaroscioli.com

Indirizzi

Flavio al Velavevodetto, Via di Monte Testaccio 97, tel. 065744194, www.ristorantevelavevodetto.it

Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 27, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com

Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

42 | February 2024 • Wanted in Rome

Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

44 | February 2024 • Wanted in Rome

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers • Ambulance tel. 118 • Carabinieri tel. 112 • Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 • Fire brigade tel. 115 • Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 • Police tel. 113 • Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355