Wanted in Rome - January 2022

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THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

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ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS

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CONT

EDITORIALS

4. BREAD AND DORMICE: WHAT DID ANCIENT ROMANS EAT? Martin Bennett

8. ITALY GETS READY FOR 2022 SIX NATIONS Russel Ayugi

12. INTERVIEW WITH JILL

MUTI, HEAD OF SCHOOL ELECT, ST. STEPHEN’S SCHOOL

MISCELLANY

16. LAKES AROUND ROME 18. ROME FOR children 20. STREET ART guide 22. MUSEUMS 24. ART GALLERIES 40. CULTURAL VENUES 45. RECIPE 46. puntarella rossa 50. USEFUL NUMBERS

WHAT'S ON

30. EXHIBITIONS 32. ART news 34. OPERA 36. Classical 38. Dance

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THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 14, Numero 1 JANUARY 2022 | € 2,00

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ENTS 4

BREAD AND DORMICE: WHAT DID ANCIENT ROMANS EAT?

12

30

INTERVIEW WITH JILL MUTI, HEAD OF SCHOOL ELECT, ST. STEPHEN’S SCHOOL

EXHIBITIONS

38 classical

History

BREAD AND DORMICE: WHAT DID ANCIENT ROMANS EAT? A BRIEF SURVEY OF THE DIET IN ANCIENT ROME Martin Bennett

“

We are what we eat,” according to a muchgnawed chestnut. Early ancient Romans might therefore have been categorised as porridge-guzzling barbarians by the Greeks before Greece was absorbed into the Roman empire.

After 146 BC things became more complicated. To ancient porridge (or puls) – whether beans, spelt or lentils – were added new dishes and flavours, often prepared by Greek cooks brought to Rome as slaves, along with Greek schoolmasters, rhetoricians, even doctors. This created another divide, kitchen-owning rich vis-à-vis ‘kitchenless’ poor who relied on fast-food joints / thermopolia; Pompeii’s archaeological area has as many as 150.

Roman fresco showing wealthy Romans dining, collection Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli.

4 | January 2022 • Wanted in Rome

As the empire spread, so did the variety of foodstuffs.

Spices galore arrived from within the empire in the east, from India and beyond. The two most common spices were coriander and cumin, while, to change context, saffron in powdered form would be wafted to quell the blood-and-guts-fuelled stench during the “games” at the Colosseum.

Also more eastern than western was the new cuisine’s combination of sweet and sour, here deriving not from sugar but honey, the best coming again from Greece. Used to sweeten mostly dodgy Roman wine, it glazed meats as well, eliminating, according to ancient chef Apicius, the “strong goatish smell.” Elsewhere Apicius recommends

“Gluttony’s not enough when Tucca tucks in:/ He has to make an exhibition of his sin.”

Roman mosaic from the House of the Faun, Pompeii, at Naples National Archaeological Museum.

honey for seabass, tunny-fish, rabbit and boiled ostrich. More dramatically it was mixed in the barley of gladiators’ traditional last meal.

Honey could also be the basis of a wonderful cake. Thanks to food expert Sally Grainger, Apicius’s recipe is there on the internet. Or you might try cooking up asparagus custard or cuttlefish-croquettes. More tricky would be stuffed nightingales in rose-petals, camels’ feet or dormice rolled in honey and poppyseed au Petronius.

Roman diet was not the same for all. One writer infers from skeletons dug up from a pauper’s graveyard just outside Rome that the poor ate little better than livestock. Their worn-down teeth could attest to an excessive millet intake or to badly-ground bread. Thanks to the Annona, the equivalent of the ancient Roman welfare system, two free loaves daily were doled out to 200,000 poor.

This early evidence of a subsidy might be considered as a benefit and a tribute to Roman government. Except panis secondarius or black panis plebius contained grit. The rich’s panis candidus, white and softer, was more like what we consume today.

Elsewhere, the poet sides not with the cook but ‘the cooked’. Martial puts these words into the beak of a peacock: “At my jewelled tail his jaw drops at every look;/ now I’m in his oven, no traitor like a cook.”

Horace in an Epistle quips to a banquet-going correspondent: “Maybe you like the taste of its feathers??/ When cooked, does the bird still maintain its splendour?” Gorging on peacock was considered particularly dangerous for those with heart conditions. Juvenal warns a stingy gourmand: “But you’ll soon pay a heavy price, when you undress and waddle/ into the bath, still full of undigested meat / hence sudden deaths, and old age interrupted.”* Back to Martial, on behalf of a crane, here is a more literary reason for restraining one’s appetite: “Kill one of Palamedes’s pet species, / your letters will fly awry, your lines go to pieces,” citing the claim that the Greek hero invented the letter Y (Roman V) from observing a flock of cranes and studying the quasi-linear flight of the birds’ wings and feet. Romans also had a penchant for flamingos’ tongues. Martial takes the food’s point of view once again: “Red feathers may pen my name, but my tongue is a snack/ for rich gluttons; if only it could talk back…”

A more unhealthy trend, this time among the rich, was gastronomical excess. The feast of Trimalchio, the rather vulgar magnate satirised in Petronius’s book Satyricon, is a dietician’s nightmare. Cholesterol levels literally hit the roof as thrushes fly out from the slit stomach of a wild pig and its tusks dangle baskets of dates.

Roman writers rarely skip a chance to root for frugality. “I don’t live in order to eat, but I eat in order to live,” is, in fact, Quintilian’s: Non ut edam vivo, sed ut vivam edo. Beans/ faba as a healthy alternative to the grandest banquet is embodied in Martial’s Xenia XVI: “Broad beans bubbling away in their pot of clay - / id est. Mr Big’s dinner invite can wait until another day.” The vegetable was so loved that the Gens Fabia, one of Rome’s most ancient families, took their their name from it. Likewise, don’t scorn the humble swede: “Winter’s rough delicacy, the cold North’s staple / What Romulus still feasts on at Heaven’s table.”

Not that this hedonism in overdrive was typical Martial, writing about Apicius’ suicide, is anything but sympathetic: “You chose to make your last toast with a cup of poison./ Even in death, Apicius, you were a glutton’s glutton.” Pliny labels him “the most gluttonous of spendthrifts.”

Poor Apicius! Another Martial epigram reads:

In Juvenal frugality is partly a way of reliving the old Republican virtues lost under Diocletian and other emperors. As the imperial elite and the plebs live it up near Juvenal’s town house, within shouting distance of the Circus Maximus, the satirist boasts humbly from his villa about the simplicity of his dining room: “At my feast today we’ll have Wanted in Rome • January 2022 | 5

a very different entertainment…the home-grown tables, carpentered from our own local timber” will be matched by the fare: “My boy has never been able to knock off a guinea-fowl’s wing;/ the best he can manage is the odd pork cutlet.”

Martial and Juvenal, both of them guest-clients, had attended too many banquets, witnessing how gluttony could be abetted by plain vindictiveness: “The patron, one Virro, is served now ‘with/…a goose-sized capon, and a boar, all steaming hot…”; hard-up guest/client gets ‘half an egg stuffed with a single pawn.”

What to us smacks of extreme bad manners, is, in a system of patronage, a means of putting others in their place. As Juvenal warns his friend/fellow ‘client’ Trebius in Satire 5: “Perhaps you think Virro’s close-fisted? No way. He does it/ to make you suffer.” In Juvenal, food becomes a weapon.

Findings at Pompeii and Herculaneum, however, suggest the rich/poor divide, at least from a dietary viewpoint, has been exaggerated. True the rich had their Triclinium, dining rooms spacious enough to eat lolling on their elbows and fling bones and left-overs onto the floor, less a sign of slovenliness than as offerings to the dead. With less space the plebs, rather more healthily, ate sitting or standing up. Yet, in the skeletons unearthed, no signs of malnutrition have been found in either group. (The rich are often distinguished by green bones, their having been buried alongside precious metal artefacts.)

That bread was the staple is partly supported by 81 loaves carbonised following Vesuvius’s eruption.

A host of other clues come from the 700 bags of ancient excrement (the world’s largest ever) from Herculaneum’s sewers and hitherto “plugged” by 50 feet of volcanic detritus. In with the odd bits of jewellery (Romans would snack in the baths) have emerged nuts, carbonised eggs, pomegranates and chicken-bones and, to match Apicius’s most salivating dreams, a giraffe’s thigh-bone.

To keep company with an oyster-shell and bone of sea-bream (spigola) unearthed in the Colosseum, were fish and seafood. Both were so popular that Diocletian passed a decree against overfishing. The patrician class, including Horace, got round this by building fish-farms. As Martial puts it: “These mullet thrashing breathlessly in their scuppers/ are dying by inches. Out at sea, they’d be whoppers.”

One account describes a mullet costing three 6 | January 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Recently unearthed thermopolium at Pompeii.

horses; Juvenal’s Satire IV stars a mullet so grand the emperor holds a state council on how best to cook and serve it. Meanwhile mosaics in Bardo and elsewhere in Tunisia feature “monster” groupers as big as the fisherman that could catch them.

A fish offshoot and again seemingly more oriental than western is garum, the closest modern equivalent to Thai fish-sauce. This sunfermented fish-blood and viscera was a staple of the legionnaire’s mess kit. Martial, striving to pin down its smell, likens it to a broken urinal, lion’s mouth, rotting chicken embryo, a billy-goat on heat. Garum was also considered an aphrodisiac, one explanation, anyway, for its otherwise unlikely popularity. Excavations in Israel and Spain have unearthed factories built to meet imperial demand and 300 garum-amphorae were dredged up off the Ligurian coast in 2015 from a ship sailing out from Spain and bound for Rome.

On a more appetising note, what about pizza?

Tomatoes, like potatoes and sugar-cane, still awaiting their Columbus, this was a pleasure ancient Romans were denied. Yet there is a proto-pizza in Virgil, predating (and prefiguring) the foundation of Rome itself: Aeneas and his companions, resting near the mouth of the Tiber, “set out a meal, and inspired by mighty Jove, / put wheaten cakes on the grass to use as platters/ and piled this meal of Ceres with wild fruit…” (Aeneid, Bk VII).

This fulfils Anchises’ prophecy, “My son, when you have touched an unknown shore and…bereft of food… are forced by hunger/ to eat your tables then…/ you can hope for a home there ,/ There lay your first foundation …”* *Martial, translated by Martin Bennett * Juvenal, all extracts translated by Peter Green, Penguin Classics *The Aeneid, translated by Patric Dickinson, Mentor Classics

Rugby

ITALY GETS READY FOR 2022 SIX NATIONS HOW ITALIAN RUGBY IS PREPARING FOR THE 2022 GUINNESS SIX NATIONS Russel Ayugi

T

he recent appointment of Kieran Crowley as the head coach of the Italian rugby team was a boost of confidence for the national side. The former New Zealand international replaced South African Franco Smith who still remains involved in Italian rugby, as the head of high performance. Crowley, who took up his new role in May, had previously coached Canada and spent the last five seasons at Italian club Benetton.

Italy is hoping to reverse its fortunes after six consecutive bottom-placed finishes in the championship. The 2020 Guinness Six Nations for Italy kicked off at the Stadio Olimpico where they faced a challenging opening against France.

Unfortunately for the home side, the inspired Les Bleus secured a 50-10 win, with scrumhalf Antoine Dupont setting up three of those tries. A consolation try from Luca Sperandio and good cooperation from Stephen Varney and Paolo Garbisi were the main takers for home siders.

Italy’s new coach Crowley was part of the 1987 World Cup-winning squad for New Zealand. He is looking to capitalise on the new generation of talent at his disposal. Crowley has spent over half a decade in the country learning and studying the rugby culture and seems to be the right person to lead the Azzurri to glory.

Crowley’s Italy record His first task was among the toughest he could bargain for. With Italy’s Crowley hosting his once-upon-a-time fellow New Zealanders, at the Stadio Olimpico, his team was overcome 47-9 in favour of the All Blacks. Unlike other encounters, the Italians offered worthy opposition as three penalties from Paolo Garbisi kept them in.

A second trip to England to face the defending champions started with a surprising Monty Ioane advance in three minutes. However, the English were able to prevail against the Italians with a 41-18 final score despite an additional visitor try

by Tommaso Allan.

In round 3 against the Irish, Smith’s side went down 48-10 in Rome before losing 48-7 to Wales at the Stadio Olimpico. This disappointing campaign closed with a fifth defeat in Edinburgh where the Scots led a 52-10 onslaught despite an early morale-boosting Luca Bigi try.

8 | January 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Italian rugby coach Kieran Crowley during the Autumn Nations Cup test match, Italy vs Argentina, in Treviso on 13 November. Photo Ettore Griffoni / Shutterstock.com.

Rugby

Santiago Carreras (Argentina) tackled by Matteo Minozzi (Italy) during the Autumn Nations Cup test match in Treviso on 13 November. Photo Ettore Griffoni / Shutterstock.com.

They trailed 21-9 by the restart and only succumbed to the All Black pressure in the final quarter when they suffered a late try blitz. A later match with Argentina resulted in a 37-16 loss.

Nevertheless, Italy closed 2021 with a 17-10 win over Uruguay - their first test win in two years.

Prolific Italian talent Several players have recorded an impressive form and exceptional sportsmanship in 2021.

Paolo Garbisi remains the focal point in attacking the Italian side. At only 21 years old, he has started on all five of Italy’s championship games this year. Many have pointed out his partnership with scrum-half Stephen Varney as an exciting axis to further build upon. Varney might not match up to Garbisi this year but he has proved he has plenty of tricks up his sleeve.

23-year-old Michele Lamaro took over the captaincy from hooker Luca Bigi in the Autumn Nations Series and equally seems to have flourished in his new role. Pierre Bruno and Epalahame Faiva both deserve a mention after crossing the try line in their debuts.

Six Nations déjà vu Since joining the competition in 2000, Italy’s track record at the Six Nations has been underwhelming thus far. This has elicited questions as to whether they should be competing in the tournament.

Italy has yet to win a rugby match since their 22-19 away win over Scotland in 2015 round 3.

They have lost every other game since - a losing streak of over 30 matches. This year’s game did not go well for the Italians with losses to France, England, Ireland and Wales.

France has not clinched a Six Nations title since 2010. Fabien Galthié’s squad will head in 2022 with wins over Argentina and Georgia at the Autumn Nations Series, even beating New Zealand 40-25. France clinched the second spot at this year’s Six Nations after losing narrowly to Scotland and England.

The Englishmen led by Eddie Jones are expected to perform well in 2022 after an unbeaten autumn campaign where they won against Tonga, Australia and South Africa.

Wanted in Rome • January 2022 | 9

Rugby

Renato Giammaroli and Finlay Christie in action during the Autumn Nations Series 2021 test match between Italy and the All Blacks in Rome on 6 November. Photo Marco Iacobucci Epp / Shutterstock.com.

Wales are this year’s defending champions but they trail behind several rivals. According to sports odds comparison website Oddschecker, they are considered the fourth-placed favourites behind France, England and Ireland. Wayne Pivac’s team closed November with a narrow win over Australia and has its eyes fully set on the 2022 Six Nations with the upcoming match against Ireland in Dublin. Autumn was a difficult season for the Welsh, especially after their early defeats against New Zealand and South Africa followed by wins against Fiji and Australia.

2022 for the Italians 2022 prospects are a mix of expectation and familiarity. The previous years have delivered numerous false starts but many foresee a resurgent squad during the Crowley era. This is after several positives can be drawn from the Autumn Nations Series campaign. Crowley is accredited with ending Italy’s losing streak with his third game at the helm.

This is not to mention the game with All Blacks that showcased the impressive talent at his disposal.

Going forward, the Azzurri will set their main focus on consistency. The 2022 Guinness Six 10 | January 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Nations will be a great starting point as they look to secure their first win in the championship.

Next year’s tournament will be one of the most contested of the season. Everyone is looking forward to the teams’ performance on its trips to France, Wales and Ireland.

Azzurre women’s team The Italian women’s rugby team continued to build impressive showings as per their performance at the Women’s Six Nations fuelling their run into 2022. The Azzurre started their opener with a loss to England despite mounting an impressive display in Parma. A week later the team registered a 41-20 victory win over Scotland clinching the second spot in pool A. In Dublin they also lost to Ireland 25-5.

However, with Italy hosting the World Cup qualifier this time, Italy’s wins over Scotland and Spain guaranteed a top-two finish in the qualifier. Scotland’s 20-18 win over Ireland sealed the deal, even earning them a spot in the repechage. With the qualification, the Azzurre will work for a 2021 New Year’s win at their away opener with France.

UK NATIONAL SETTLED IN ITALY BEFORE 1 JANUARY 2021?

Make sure your residency in Italy is easily recognised. Request your new Carta di Soggiorno Elettronica from your local Questura as soon as possible. And don’t get confused…it isn’t the same thing as your electronic ID card.

Find out more on gov.uk/livinginitaly

Education

INTERVIEW WITH JILL MUTI, HEAD OF SCHOOL ELECT, ST. STEPHEN’S SCHOOL THE FUTURE HEAD OF ST. STEPHEN’S SCHOOL TALKS TO WANTED IN ROME

W

hat is your background and what are your goals in this new adventure as Head of St. Stephen’s School?

I am really looking forward to moving to Rome and becoming the next Head of St. Stephen’s School. Each school has its own unique culture and community.

Initially, I think it’s going to be crucial to learn the school’s culture, be visible, ask questions and praise effective teaching and learning practices.

It’s equally important to remember the number one reason we are here is for the students. So, I would say that my primary goal is to maintain and ensure our level of academic excellence by creating the best atmosphere Jill Muti, head of school elect, St. Stephen's School.

Marco Venturini for learning by focusing on what is best for our student body and helping them create a unique, unforgettable secondary experience. I look forward to getting to know the community, building authentic relationships with my colleagues, creating effective teams, and empowering faculty and staff to carry out their responsibilities successfully.

Should there be underlying problems and issues to solve, I will want to take immediate action to remedy situations that might arise. Still, my priority will be to focus on what is essential rather than urgent every day.

St. Stephen’s is getting ready to embrace a new strategic plan, and I am looking forward to stewarding the plan and process to guide the school successfully into the future.

Everybody in our school, from the head of school and the board of trustees down to the support staff, must keep our school in the vanguard of change. My ultimate goal is to leave St. Stephen’s in a better place so that it can continue to attract intellectually-motivated students from around the world for years to come.

For the last 18 years, I have been the Head of Ashley Hall in Charleston, South Carolina, a P-K - 12th-grade independent school for girls serving 685 students. I have managed the budget, staffing and all aspects of student life and have had hands-on leadership in virtually every dimension of the school’s programme, including strategic planning and development.

Ashley Hall is a community I have loved serving. During my time there, I initiated and implemented numerous programmatic enhancements, including STEAM initiatives, the integration of math and science departments, the vision and creation of a global studies program, a successful professional development programme, a boarding programme for international students, a health and wellness programme, among many others. I have led three capital campaigns and three productive strategic and master planning processes and tripled the school’s endowment. I am also proud of a partnership I launched with Horizon’s

12 | January 2022 • Wanted in Rome

National, a non-profit that works with schools to develop summer academic, enrichment and social-emotional learning programmes to serve underrepresented students.

Before joining Ashley Hall as Head of School, I was Assistant Head at Ravenscroft School, a P-K-12 in Raleigh, North Carolina. There I implemented the school’s strategic plan, led the faculty hiring process, created an interim programme for the Middle and Upper School, administered all phases of the Fine Arts Programme P-K-12, and oversaw the design and construction of a $2.6 million Fine Arts Center. I also held the positions of College Counselor, Coordinator of International Programs, Director of Fine Arts Center, and Chair of Fine Arts. My other professional experience includes being a member of the Adjunct Faculty at NC State University, Raleigh, North Carolina, and Admissions Officer at Duke University, in Durham, North Carolina.

What does St. Stephen’s offer that other international schools in Rome don’t?

There are several reasons St. Stephen’s School is unique.

First, we are the only coeducational, American international high school in the centre of Rome offering day and boarding to students in grades 9 through 12.

Second, St. Stephen’s has an incredible location. We are adjacent to FAO (Food & Agriculture Organization), a three-minute walk to Circus Maximus, and about a fiveminute walk to some of the most significant monuments of ancient Rome –nthe Colosseum and Roman Forum. No other school in Rome can boast a location like ours.

Third, we are the oldest IB World School in Italy, and our graduates have consistently ranked in the top percentile of IB exams, including perfect scores of 42 and the highest IB scores in the history of the school in recent years.

Our average IB score is 36. Over a student’s four years, there are 120 courses students can choose, reflecting the school’s proud tradition of academic excellence that brings all the best elements of an American and international education tradition to our student body. This commitment to academic excellence was solidified in 1975 when St. Stephen’s became the first school in Italy (the seventh in Europe) to offer the International Baccalaureate Programme to students in grades 11 and 12.

Fourth, with our small size of 300 students, we can get to know and work one-on-one with each student, build strong relationships, and cater to each young adult’s needs by offering a rigorous tailor-made programme that fulfills the full International Baccalaureate Diploma Programme requirements and a US high school diploma. We provide a stimulating and culturally diverse environment to almost 60 nationalities from five continents, fostering a sense of internationalism and global citizenship. We nurture the whole student with counseling and wellness support and a robust

Rome acts as a classroom for St. Stephen's students.

advisory programme. We balance this with a diverse co-curricular offer.

Fifth, rounding out our academic offer are the school’s unique signature programmes that allow students to develop inquiry-based lab skills and participate in university-level research with state-of-the-art equipment so they may expand and deepen their scientific literacy and competencies through St Stephen’s Molecular Genetics program; explore enriched classics courses through the Dr. Helen Pope Lyceum Institute for Roman Culture, where students may elect to study Latin, Classical Greek and Roman Studies, or Arabic; enhance their technology skills in the iLab as they learn to design, programme, build, and compete in robotics using EV3 Lego Mindstorm or Tetrix Java-based robots, have virtual reality experiences, make their own Virtual and Augmented Reality applications using iLab programs and specialised cameras, and learn about creating and using Artificial Intelligence; and explore the world around them through our school-wide trips programme, which enables discovery of cultures and regions throughout Italy, Europe and the Mediterranean Basin twice a year. Paired with summer service-learning experiences in Africa, South East Asia and Eastern Europe, students benefit by gaining new insights and developing a global mindset balanced with compassion and consideration for others.

Sixth, a strong commitment to our core values of care, integrity, scholarship, independence and creativity defines us and provides an essential foundation for building character. Students feel supported and free to achieve their personal best.

And lastly, I would say the school’s world-class faculty make us stand apart because we employ working professionals in many sectors who have distinguished themselves in their respective fields. 90 per cent of our teachers have advanced degrees, and 20 per cent have Ph.Ds. How has covid affected the school and the number of students?

Like all schools around the world, St. Stephen’s has had to navigate the diverse challenges of the pandemic. Though I was not present last year at St Stephen’s, I have been informed that the school transitioned to online learning, perhaps with a few hiccups at first, but eventually learned Wanted in Rome • January 2022 | 13

Education to accommodate students with asynchronous learning. My predecessor, Eric Mayer, and his Senior Leadership Team created a Covid Response Center, worked the phones with parents, teachers and students, and created clear lines of communication, hired a Covid Manager, organized Zoom meetings with prospective families, assembled a medical advisory team, and kept the community spirit going through wellness meetings. This collaborative approach worked when the school resumed teaching and learning in person.

Communication and cooperation across departments have been vital in maintaining the school’s overall enrollment of 300 students. Recruitment targets remained very strong throughout the pandemic, the school continues to be fully enrolled, and there is increased demand.

The pandemic, in general, has had a tremendously negative effect on secondary students around the world.

And while school communities have adapted and created new strategies to teach material, the isolation and lack of social interaction have had a tremendous effect on students in general. Schools like St. Stephen’s that have weathered this storm and been able to serve the student body are a remarkable testament to the dedication of the school community, especially the faculty and staff.

There are 60 nationalities among the student body at St. Stephen's.

an urban high school, and as I mentioned earlier, that makes us different from other schools in Rome. Indeed, our boarding community has benefitted from being in the historic centre in many ways. The Board of Trustees firmly believes that our inclusive community of scholars will only be further enriched culturally and philosophically by students who bring diverse experiences from their varied backgrounds.

I look forward to collaborating with the board, the Head of Boarding, and the Director of Marketing and Admissions to further define the boarding experience at St. Stephen’s.

What countries are represented in the student body?

Where do the majority of students come from?

Will St. Stephen’s International school ever expand to primary level?

60 nationalities represent the student body at St. Stephen’s.

One-third of our students are from North America. Nearly every country in Europe is represented, and Europeans make up approximately 40 per cent. The rest of our student body comes from China, Central and South America, the Middle East, and Africa.

I am not aware of any discussion to expand the grades represented at the school. I believe we plan on maintaining our unique presence as a high school.

What role does the school’s location in an archaeologically rich area play in students’ studies?

Our English language high school is surrounded by Western Civilization’s most significant historical monuments and museums. The Colosseum, the Roman Forum, and Circus Maximus are all within minutes of our campus. Teachers use the Eternal City as their classroom. It’s not unusual for students in art or history, science, even math or Latin to spend their class time walking through the streets of Rome, exploring ancient churches, reading inscriptions, and having an opportunity to touch and feel history. St. Stephen’s teachers use Rome every week in their lessons.

This first-hand knowledge of history, art, archaeology, classics and cultural heritage is a unique signature of a St. Stephen’s education, which provides an intellectually challenging environment that transforms young minds and prepares them to excel in high school and their future endeavours. It’s a one-of-a-kind experience.

Where do most students go after St. Stephens?

St. Stephen’s has shaped the futures of students since 1964. Over 5,000 graduates have matriculated to leading universities worldwide and distinguished themselves as leaders and pioneers in their professional careers.

St. Stephen’s students have the opportunity to attend the best colleges and universities in the world. We work closely with students to highlight their individuality and their passions, provide strategic guidance throughout the application process, increase college admissions competitiveness, and help students and their families make informed decisions about which college or university is the best fit for them. The following is a list of just some of the colleges and universities throughout the world where our students have matriculated in 2021.

What are you looking forward to the most about living in Italy?

How many students are boarding and what is the future of a boarding institution?

My husband is Italian and we spend a great deal of time in Italy. I am looking forward to living in the “Eternal City” and learning as much as I can about its incredibly rich history.

St. Stephen’s currently has 50 boarders at the school. Due to the success of our boarding programme, there are plans to expand our boarding offer in the coming years. We are

For more information about St. Stephen’s School, see website.

Press, marketing, and admissions inquiries may be directed to Courtney Ventura, Director of Communications, Marketing & Admissions.

14 | January 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Italy's first AP School

admissions@aosr.org www.aosr.org/admissions

The Best of an American-International Education

LAGO DI ALBANO This volcanic crater lake presents visitors with beautiful views of its clear water and surrounding forests. The picturesque towns along the shores serve as popular summer resort areas for Romans, including Castel Gandolfo, home to the summer papal palace whose gardens were recently opened to the public. On the other side of the lake is Palazzolo, a villa bought by Rome’s Venerable English College in 1920 and now open to guests. The towns surrounding the lake are known for their restaurants, shops and fruit farms. Swimming, fishing and boating are among the favourite activities for visitors, and the lake’s beach is located on the western shore. A simple 45-minute train ride from Termini, visitors can reach Lago Albano by taking the FL4 train towards Albano Laziale and getting off at the Castel Gandolfo stop.

around rome LAGO DI NEMI Lago di Nemi is a small and unique volcanic lake where divers in the 19th century discovered two large ships built for the notorious Roman emperor Caligula at the bottom of the lake, filled withbottom of the lake, filled with artworks and treasures.

Replicas of the ships along with other artefacts are on display at the nearby Museum of Roman Ships.

Travellers can also visit the natural caves around the lake, which were a favourite haunt of 19th-century foreign artists such as Turner. Nemi is associated with the cult of the Roman goddess Diana, and, for the last 80 years, an annual strawberry festival.

Visitors can reach the lake by taking the SS7 Appia southbound as far as Genzano, and then following signs for Nemi.

LAGO DI VICO Formed by the volcanic activity of Mount Venus, Lago di Vico offers a unique geological backdrop set amid lush woodland and hills. The surrounding nature reserve is a haven for wildlife, but what is most characteristic of the area are the hazel and chestnut plantations. Lakeside campsites and hotels offer swimming, sailing and horse riding. The two towns worth a visit are Ronciglione and Caprarola with its magnificent and recently restored Villa Farnese. Lago di Vico is a 90-minute drive from Rome taking the SS2 Cassia, and turning north at Sutri.

16 | January 2022 • Wanted in Rome

LAGO DI BOLSENA Located on the site of the Vulsini volcano, dormant since about 100 BC, this crater lake has two islands and is surrounded by rolling hills and vegetation. The area around Montefisascone on the southeast shore of the lake is famous for its Est! Est!! Est!!! wine. The town of Bolsena in the northeast is a popular tourist resort in summer and it is here that the famous so-called Eucharistic Miracle took place in 1263 when a Bohemian priest is said to have seen blood coming from the host that he had just consecrated at Mass. Capodimonte on the southwest of the lake is also worth a visit. The lakeside area provides activities for sports and nature enthusiasts all year round. The best way to reach Lago di Bolsena from Rome is by car, as buses to Bolsena from Termini Station are infrequent.

LAGO DI BRACCIANO Just north-west of Rome along the Via Cassia, Lake Bracciano is one of the most easily accessible lakes for Romans. The ban on motor boats (except for a little ferry) means it remains an ideal spot for swimming, sailing and canoeing. The Lega Navale operates a dinghy sailing school in Anguillara.

Churches and historic sites are located in the three small towns around the lake: Bracciano, Trevignano and Anguillara. There are also places for camping and horse riding tours by the lake, which is just an hour on the Viterbo train line from Rome’s Ostiense station. The lake is overlooked by the 15th-century Orsini-Odescalchi castle in Bracciano, often chosen as the venue for jet-set weddings, and there is also an air force museum at nearby Vigna di Valle.

LAGO DI MARTIGNANO This tiny volcanic lake just to the east of Lake Bracciano offers clean water and beaches with scenic views of the surrounding meadows and wildlife. Lago di Martignano is known for its outdoor activities such as horse riding, hiking, mountain biking and swimming. Umbrellas, loungers and luggage storage are available to rent along with canoes, sailboats and windsurfing equipment. It is also known for the hot sulphurous springs surrounding the lake. Arriving at Lago di Martignano by car is the easiest option. Reaching the lake by public transport involves taking the FM3 train to Cesano and opting for either a local bus or taxi.

IB WORLD SCHOOL

A rewarding international education. Ages 2 to 18.

Request information! +39 06 84482 651 romeinternationalschool.it

Wanted in Rome • January 2022 | 17

ARTandSEEK Please note that not all of these activites English-language culturaldue workshops visits to are currently open, to theand covid-19 museums and exhibitions for children in Rome.

For crisis. It is advisable to check websites event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforfor visiting details and make reservation kids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandsebefore going. ekforkids.com.

Bioparco Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and offers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it.

Bowling Silvestri This sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.

18 | January 2022 • Wanted in Rome

There are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com.

Casa del Parco Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com.

Casina di Raffaello Play centre in Villa Borghese offering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Raffaello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadiraffaello.it.

Cinecittà World This 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special effects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it.

Climbing Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds.

Tues, Thurs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473.

Explora The 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it.

Go-karting Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel.

0665004962, www.kartroma.it.

Gymboree This children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, offering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it.

Hortis Urbis Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it.

Il Nido Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.

Luneur Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it.

Rainbow Magicland The 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it.

Time Elevator A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. The time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it.

Zoomarine This amusement and aquatic park outside Rome offers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.

Wanted in Rome • January 2022 | 19

Rome’s artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant importantstreet street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre.

Here is where to is find Rome’s mainthe street artstreet projects murals. from the centre.

Here where to find main artand projects and murals around Rome.

Esquilino Esquilino Murals Murals byby Alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Pistone, Nicola Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, Diamond.

PiazzaMafredo Manfredo Fanti 47.

Piazza Fanti 47.

Marconi Marconi The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artistSeth Seth is located in a street artist is located in a former former soap factory Via Antonio soap factory on Viaon Antonio AvogaAvogadro, opposite dro, opposite Ostiense'sOstiense’s landmark Gasometro.

For For details see landmark Gasometro. details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com.

Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz Metropoliz This This former former meat meat factory factory inin the the outskirts of Rome is nowa astreet street outskirts of Rome is now art art museumasaswell well as as being museum being home hometoto some200 200squatting squatters,migrants. many of The them some migrants.

The Museo dell’Altrodi e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altroveor diMAAM, Metropoliz, or MAAM, Metropoliz, is only open is only open on Saturdays, and on Saturdays, and features the work features the work of more than 300 of more than 300 artists including artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Edoardo Kobra, and GioDiamond.

Pistone, Pistone, Sten&Lex See Sten&Lex, Pablo Echaurren and MAAM Facebook page for details.

Borondo.

See MAAM Via Prenestina 913. Facebook page for details. Via Prenestina 913.

Ostiense Ostiense Fronte Del by by Blu.Blu. Via Via del Porto Fronte Del Porto Porto del Fluviale.

Porto Fluviale.

Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via Fish’n’Kids

by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Fluviale.

Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Wall of Fame

by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali.

Magazzini Shelley by Generali.

Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense.

Shelley by Ozmo.

Ostiense Palazzo occupato

by Blu, Via Ostiense. underpass, Via Ostiense.

Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Pigneto Ostiense.

Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Pigneto Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

20 | January 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi.

Lodi.

2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio.

Fortebraccio.

2501 mural on Via Blu Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Francesco Baracca.

Francesco Baracca.

Prati Prati Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù.

Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo Nuovo Mercato Trionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria.

Andrea Doria. theSabotino. bear by Daniza the bear byDaniza ROA. Via ROA. Via Sabotino.

Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill Roadkill by Fintan Magee.

Magee. Via Via The

by Fintan Cristoforo Numai.

Cristoforo Numai.

Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo.

Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo.

Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals andand Gio Tunnel muralsby byMr MrTHOMS THOMS Pistone.

Via Decio Mure.Mure.

Gio Pistone.

Via Decio Nido di di Vespe ViaVia del Nido VespebybyLucamaleonte.

Lucamaleonte.

Monte del Grano. del Monte del Grano.

Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89.

Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by byBlu. Blu.Via ViaCiciliano Ciciliano and and Via Via Murals Palombini (Casal Palombini (Casaldè dèPazzi).

Pazzi).

Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare.

Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare.

Metro B station.

Metro B station.

S.S. Basilio Basilio SanBa SanBa features features large-scale large-scale works on on the façades façades of in the of social-housing social-housingblocks blocks the disadvantaged north-east suburb of in the disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerasuburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. tion project includes works by Italian The project artistsregeneration Agostino Iacurci, Hitnesincludes and Blu works by Italian artists alongside Spain's Liqen. ViaAgostino Maiolati, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Spain’s Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, S. Giovanni Via Treia.

Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S. Giovanni Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

It’s aa New NewDay Daybyby Alice Pasquini.

It’s Alice Pasquini.

Via Via Anton Ludovico.

Anton Ludovico.

S. Lorenzo S. Lorenzo Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli.

Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli.

Feminicide mural by Elisa Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo.

Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi.

Via Dei Sardi.

Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159.

Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159.

Mural by

by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Via Aquilonia.

Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia.

S. Pietro S. Pietro Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S. di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo.

Gallo.

Testaccio Testaccio Hunted byby ROA. ViaVia Galvani.

HuntedWolf Wolf ROA. Galvani. #KindComments by by Alice Pasquini, Via #KindComments Alice Pasquini, Volta, Testaccio market.

Via Volta, Testaccio market.

Tor Pignattara Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via ViaAntonio AntonioTempesta.

Tempesta.

Dulk.

Etnik.Via ViaBartolomeo Bartolomeo Perestrello Etnik.

Perestrello 51.

51. Coffee Break Etam Cru. Via Coffee Break by Etamby Cru. Via Ludovico Pavoni.

Ludovico Pavoni.

Tom

by Jef Via Gabrio TomSawyer Sawyer

by Aerosol.

Jef Aerosol.

Via Serbelloni.

Gabrio Serbelloni.

Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema PasoliniVia

by Acqua Diavù.Bullicante.

Former Cinema Impero, Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante.

Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Alessi.

Herakut.

Capua 14.

GaleazzoVia Alessi.

Agostino Iacurci.

Via Muzio Herakut. Via Capua 14. Oddi 6.

Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6.

Tor Marancia Tor Big Marancia The City Life scheme features 14-m The Big City Life scheme tall murals by 22 Italian and features interna14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and tional street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia andartists Jerico.including The idea international street was to transform area's of Mr Klevra, Seth,the Gaia andblocks Jerico. flats into an open-air art museum. Via The idea was to transform the area’s Tor Marancia. www.bigcity.life.it. blocks of flats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Wanted in Rome • January 2022 | 21

ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS PLEASE NOTE THAT NOT ALL OF THESE MUSEUMS ARE CURRENTLY OPEN, DUE TO THE COVID-19 CRISIS. IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS AND MAKE RESERVATION BEFORE GOING.

VATICAN MUSEUMS

Crypta Balbi

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va.

Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00.

Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday.

Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio.

09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30.

Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

22 | January 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it.

National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid.

Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection.

09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it.

Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant.

09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists.

Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Capitoline Museums

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it.

The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00.

Mon closed.

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

MATTATOIO

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org.

Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00.

Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00.

Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron.

Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00.

Guided tours on prior booking.

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it.

Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Museo Canonica

Palazzo Merulana

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959.

09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it.

Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation.

09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Guided tours in Italian and English.

Wanted in Rome • January 2022 | 23

PLEASE NOTE THAT NOT ALL OF THESE GALLERIES ARE CURRENTLY OPEN, DUE TO THE COVID-19 CRISIS. IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS AND TO MAKE RESERVATION BEFORE GOING.

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ff-maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Visual art, design, architecture, fashion design and beauty apothecary in a 17th-century palace. Via dei Barbieri 7, tel.

0668805928, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Delfini, Via dei Delfini 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel.

0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pastificio Cerere

This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel.

0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

24 | January 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel.

0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at affordable prices by artists working in various fields. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo

Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists.

Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel.

0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel.

066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

Wanted in Rome • January 2022 | 25

MAXXI amazes you, always art

architecture design photography cinema

26 | January 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Galleria Russo

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel.

066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions.

Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Galleria Varsi

Plus Arte Puls

A dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di Grotta Pinta 38, tel. 066865415, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Gavin Brown's Enterprise

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

RvB ARTS

Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.

Sala 1

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

La Nuova Pesa

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists.

Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino d’Arte Moderna

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel.

0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

Monitor

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

Nero Gallery

The Gallery Apart

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

Nomas Foundation

TraleVolte

This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel.

0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

White Noise Gallery

Based in the S. Lorenzo district, this gallery exhibits unconventional work by young Italian and international artists. Via della Seggiola 9, tel. 066832833, www.whitenoisegallery.it.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists.

Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

Wanted in Rome • January 2022 | 27

where to go in Rome

WHAT’S ON Judith I (detail) by Gustav Klimt at Palazzo Braschi. See page 31.

Wanted in Rome • January 2022 | 29

EXHIBITIONS After 10 January museums and other cultural sites in Italy are open only to visitors with a Super Green Pass (the certificate issued following vaccination or recovery from covid-19). This provision does not apply to visitors under the age of 12.

Most venues require advance booking and the wearing of masks is obligatory. Weekend visits to the more popular sites such as the Colosseum and the Pantheon must be booked at least one day ahead. For visiting details check websites in advance.

100 PRESEPI 5 DEC-9 JAN

This year’s edition of 100 Presepi, Rome’s international Nativity crib exhibition, takes place under the colonnade of St Peter’s Square. A firm fixture on Rome’s Christmas calendar, each year 100 Presepi hosts some Nativity scenes from across Italy and dozens of other countries.

In addition to contemporary replicas of traditional 18th-century Neapolitan and Sicilian cribs, and 19th-century Roman mangers, there are modern versions made from wood, papier-mâché and terracotta, as well as unconventional materials such as sand, rice and metal. Now

at St Peter's Square.

Caravaggio and Artemisia exhibition at Palazzo Barberini.

in its 46th year, 100 Presepi was established in Rome in 1976 and took place in Piazza del Popolo until four years ago. Today it is organised by the Vatican’s Pontifical Council for the Promotion of the New Evangelisation. For visiting details see website, www.100presepi.it.

CARAVAGGIO AND ARTEMISIA 26 NOV-27 MARCH

Caravaggio and Artemisia: Judith’s challenge. Violence and seduction in painting between the 16th and 17th centuries is the title of a new exhibition at Palazzo Barberini. The show takes as it starting point Judith who decapitates Holofernes in Caravaggio’s

masterpiece which was rediscovered 70 years ago before being acquired by the Italian state. Evaluating the impact the powerful painting has had on the art world over the centuries, the exhibition comprises 31 works, mostly large format, from important national and international institutions, including the Prado and the Thyssen Museum in Madrid, the Capodimonte Museum in Naples and Rome’s the Borghese Gallery in Rome. The show is curated by Maria Cristina Terzaghi and features works by artists including Orazio and Artemisia Gentileschi, Valentin de Boulogne, Pietro Novelli, Mattia Preti and Giuseppe Vermiglio.

Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, www.barberinicorsini.org.

ANTONIETTA RAPHAEL 17 NOV-30 JAN

The Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna (GNAM) presents Through the Looking Glass, an exhibition dedicated to Antonietta Raphaël (Kaunas 1895 – Rome 1975), the Lithuanian- born artist who was a leading exponent of the Scuola Romana movement. The show comprises paintings, sculptures and works on paper, accompanied by documents, family photographs, letters and pages from her diaries. Also on display is a selection of works by artist Mario Mafai – her lifelong partner – along with a specially created video documentary. The gallery says the

30 | January 2022 • Wanted in Rome

exhibition’s title alludes to Raphaël’s “ability to transform artistic practice into a tool for investigating her own inner world and evokes dreamlike and imaginative dimensions in which the female figure is the main protagonist.” Curated by Giorgia Calò and Alessandra Troncone, the show is held in collaboration with the Lithuanian Institute of Culture and the embassy of Lithuania in Rome.

GNAM, Viale delle Belle Arti 131, www.lagallerianazionale.com.

KLIMT: LA SECESSIONE E L’ITALIA 27 OCT-27 MARCH

Palazzo Braschi presents an exhibition of paintings by Gustav Klimt, including Portrait of a Lady, which went missing for almost 23 years after its theft from a gallery in Piacenza. The painting was stolen in 1997 before being rediscovered in the gallery’s garden, in mysterious circumstances, in 2019. The works on show feature some of the Austrian artist’s masterpieces from the Belvedere Museum in Vienna, the Klimt Foundation and public and private collections such as the Neue Galerie Graz. Highlights among the paintings, sculptures and drawings on display include Judith I, Lady in White, Friends I (The Sisters), Amalie Zuckerkandl and The Bride. The exhibition focuses on the artist’s relationship with Italy and the influence he had on other artists working in the country. Museo di

Sebastião-Salgado at MAXXI. Indiana Yawanawá, Stato di Acre, Brasile 2016.©-Sebastião Salgado Contrasto.

Roma, Piazza Navona 2, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it.

INFERNO

15 OCT-23 JAN

The Scuderie del Quirinale marks the 700th anniversary of the death of Dante Alighieri with an exhibition based on the first book of The Divine Comedy. The show comprises more than 200 artworks on loan from 80 museums, public collections and private collections from Italy, the Vatican and across Europe. Inferno documents hell-related iconography from the Middle Ages to the present day, in what is hailed as the first major art exhibition dedicated to this theme.

Curated by Jean Clair, the show takes visitors on a journey into the depths of hell, as imagined by artists through the centuries, accompanied by the words of Dante. These visions range from the tormented and nightmarish

to the romanticised, from Mediaeval to Baroque, up to psychoanalytic interpretations from the 20th century.

Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 16, www.scuderiequirinale.it.

SEBASTIAO SALGADO 1 OCT-13 FEB

Photojournalist Sebastião Salgado provides a black and white photographic journey through the Brazilian Amazon, after he spent six years capturing images of the forest, the rivers, the mountains and the people who live there. MAXXI, Italy’s national museum of 21st-century arts, presents Salgado’s 200 photographs against a soundscape of sounds recorded in the forests and created

by Jean-Michel Jarre – feauring the rustling of trees, birdsong, the shrieks of animals, and the roar of waterfalls.

The exhibition highlights the fragility of this ecosystem, showing that in the protected areas where the indigenous communities live the forest has suffered almost no damage. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.

ALL ABOUT BANKSY: EXHIBITION 2 5 MAY-9 JAN

Klimt exhibition at Palazzo Braschi.

Chiostro del Bramante presents ALL about BANKSY, an exhibition dedicated to the anonymous British street artist whose satirical murals are celebrated around the world. The show, which follows an earlier Banksy exhibition, features about 250 artworks from private collections. Chiostro del Bramante, Via Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www. chiostrodelbramante.it.

Wanted in Rome • January 2022 | 31

ART NEWS US RETURNS $10 MILLION OF LOOTED TREASURES TO ITALY

The US has returned 200 antiquities stolen from Italy, many of them linked to one Rome-based dealer, in a massive repatriation valued at $10 million. The Manhattan district attorney's office, which oversaw the operation, confiscated the artefacts from major museums and collections across the US. The trove, hailed as the largest single repatriation of relics from the US to Italy, included almost 100 items seized from the Fordham Museum of Greek, Etruscan and Roman Art, and an Etruscan ceramic vessel (dating to the seventh century BC) confiscated from the Getty Museum in Los Angeles.

"For years, prestigious museums and private collectors across the US prominently displayed these Italian historical treasures even though their very presence in America constituted evidence of cultural heritage crimes” – said Manhattan district attorney Cy Vance – “The repatriation of this dazzling collection of ancient art begins to address some of the damage done by traffickers and shows the need for all collectors and gallery owners performing due diligence and ensuring pieces they purchased were lawfully acquired."

Among the artefacts returned to Rome, 150 were seized following an investigation into the shady dealings of Edoardo Almagià, who is accused of trafficking ancient art from Italy, using tombaroli (tomb raiders) to loot and smuggle artefacts out of the country for more than three decades. Almagià, 70, relied on a “network of scholars, directors, and curators of the most important international museums” to place the objects, according to an expert’s findings adopted by an Italian court.

Expired statutes of limitations have made it difficult for Italy to prosecute Almagià who lives in Rome and who has defended his dealings in Roman-era antiquities by claiming: "There are thousands of items that travel around the world without papers, and they are only asking for papers now, and in the past they never had such requirements."

Some of the antiquities repatriated to Italy from the US.

32 | January 2022 • Wanted in Rome

FENDI RESTORES TEMPLE OF VENUS AND ROMA

The Temple of Venus and Roma, located in the Roman Forum opposite the Colosseum, has undergone a €2.5 million restoration sponsored by luxury fashion house Fendi. The results of the 15-month project were unveiled by the Colosseum archaeological park on 20 December.

Fendi, which sponsored the €2 million restoration of the Trevi Fountain several years ago, staged a fashion show in the Roman temple in 2019 in tribute to its late creative director Karl Lagerfeld. Believed to have been the largest temple in ancient Rome, the Tempio di Venere e Roma was dedicated to the goddesses Venus Felix (Venus the Bringer of Good Fortune) and Roma Aeterna (Eternal Rome). Construction of the temple began in 121 under Emperor Hadrian and it was completed in 141.

The newly restored Temple of Venus and Roma.

RICHARD ROGERS DIES AGED 88

Sir Richard Rogers, the celebrated Italian-born British architect, died in London a week before Christmas aged 88. Born in Florence to an Anglo-Italian family in 1933, Rogers moved to England on the outbreak of world war two. After graduating from the Yale School of Architecture in 1962, Rogers set up an architectural practice in London with Norman Foster, Su Brumwell and Wendy Cheesman.

He subsequently joined forced with Italian architect Renzo Piano with whom, alongside Gianfranco Franchini, he won the design competition for the landmark Pompidou Centre in 1971. In later years Rogers undertook other major projects including the 14-story Lloyd’s building and the Millennium Dome in London. After Rogers' death, Piano paid tribute to his former partner as "my big brother."

Andy Devane

OPERA MILAN I CAPULETTI E I MONTECCHI

BY VINCENZO BELLINI 18 JAN-2 FEB

Evelin Pidò conducts a new production of Bellini’s version of Romeo and Juliet, directed by Adrian Noble, who was the head of the Royal Shakespeare Company until 2003.

This is Noble’s debut at La Scala.

Marianne Crebassa sings Romeo and Lisette Oropesa Giulietta. Bellini composed the opera in 1830 for the Venice Carnival and given that he had little over a month to deliver the composition he used material from Zaira, his fifth opera which had been a flop in Parma the previous year. I Capuletti e i Montecchi became an immediate success and made Bellini’s reputation. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

THAÏS

BY MASSENET 10 FEB-2 MARCH

Massenet's opera, inspired by Anatole France's novel, has never been performed before at La Scala. It debuted in Paris in 1894 and then in Milan in 1903 at the Teatro Lirico Internazionale.

Lorenzo Viotti conducts La Scala orchestra and chorus and it is staged by the French director is Olivier Pye. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

ROME KAT’A KABANOVA

BY JANACEK 18-27 JAN

This is the first time that Janacek’s opera has been performed at Teatro Costanzi, in a co-production with the Royal Opera House. It is conducted by David Robertson and directed by Richard Jones who has directed five Royal Opera House

Amanda Majeski in Katya Kabanova in the 2019 Royal Opera House production.

34 | January 2022 • Wanted in Rome

productions and is considered one of the best British opera and theatre directors. The opera will be sung in Czech with Italian and English surtitles. It tells the story of a woman living in a small bigoted community. She is trapped in a loveless marriage, bullied by her mother-in-law and spied on by her neighbours, as she searches for something better. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

LUISA MILLER

BY VERDI 8 FEB-17 FEB

Michele Mariotti as conductor and Damiano Michieletto as director makes for an interesting duo, with Michele Pertusi as Count Walter and Daniela Barcellona as Federica. Luisa Miller was Verdi's 15th opera and is the start of what is known as his "middle period".

This is an OpernHaus Zurich production. Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

Classical ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA ROMANA QUARTETTO PROMETEO 20 JAN

The first concert dedicated to all of Shostakovich's string quartets. The Quartetto Prometeo plays quartets 1, 2 and 3. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www. filarmonicaromana.org.

ASSOLI VI ERIK BERTSCH 28 JAN

The Assoli series of concerts is dedicated to contemporary music.

Erik Bertsch plays music by Morton Feldman, Elliott Carter, Fausto Sebastiani and George Benjamin.

Other concerts in the series are on 25 Feb, 1 April, 8 April, 20 May. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 18. www. filarmonicaromana.org.

CICLO BACH THOMAS GAVAZZI 6 FEB

This is the first in the series of Bach concerts in February. Thomas Gavazzi plays the harpsichord. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 18. www. filarmonicaromana.org.

ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA

Angela Hewitt performs at S. Cecilia on 9 January.

ANGELA HEWITT 9 JAN

S. Cecilia had to cancel some concerts in December so it is advisable to check the website before you go.

Pianist Angela Hewitt plays music

by Couperin, Bach and Scarlatti. Sala Sinopoli, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36, www. santacecilia.it.

JOHN ELIOT GARDINER

QUARTETTO ADORNO

13-16 JAN

Sir John Eliot Gardiner conducts the S. Cecilia Orchestra and Chorus in Haydn's Creation, with Lenneke Ruiten soprano, Giovanni Sala tenor, Roberto Lorenzi baritone.

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P de Coubertin 36, www. santacecilia.it.

36 | January 2022 • Wanted in Rome

2 FEB

The Italian string quartet, which was founded in 2015 and which has already made a name for itself abroad, plays music by Webern, Shostakovich and Beethoven. Sala Sinopoli, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36, www. santacecilia.it.

ANTONIO PAPPANO KIRILL GERSTEIN 3-5 FEB

Antonio Pappano conducts the S. Cecilia Orchestra with pianist Kirill Gerstein playing music by Dukas, Adés and Strauss. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36, www.santacecilia.it.

MAURIZIO POLLINI 7 FEB

No programme had yet been announced for Maurizio Pollini's recital. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36, www. santacecilia.it.

Wanted in Rome • January 2022 | 37

DANCE

David Dawson's Anima Animus will be danced at La Scala for the first time.

MILAN

TEATRO ALLA SCALA LA BAYADERE RUDOLF NUREYEV 15 DEC-8 JAN

This ballet, which Nureyev made his own, opens the new season at La Scala, with new sets and costumes

by Luisa Spinatelli. It is a return to purity of classical ballet with the whole of La Scala Ballet Company on stage and the participation of some of the ballet school’s students.

Kevin Rhodes is conducting. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

as "physically emotional virtuosity combined to make something human.” Dawson also has high praise for the music by Ezio Bosso, who died in 2020. “It felt to me like music that looks to the past and the future at the same time, much how I like to make dance,” Kylian's piece, Bella Figura was first performed by the Nederlands Dans Teater in 1995.

Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

the name for his work for the New York Ballet this was Forsythe's reply: "I first heard that phrase ['Herman Schmerman'] used by Steve Martin in the film Dead Men Don't Wear Plaid. I think it's a lovely title that means nothing. The ballet means nothing, too. It's a piece about dancing that will be a lot of fun.

It's just ... talented dancers dancing around — and that's good, isn't it?"

Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

ROME

TEATRO OLIMPICO

TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA

DAWSON/KRATZ/KYLIÁN

FORSYTHE/INGER/BLANC

Solitude Sometimes by Philippe Kratz, who has choreographed several works for Aterballeto, is a world premier. David Dawson's work Anima Animus set to music

by Ezio Bosso is a new production for La Scala. This piece was commissioned by the San Francisco Ballet and Dawson has described it

Three works by this trio of choreographers, Herman Scherman

by William Forsythe, Walking Mad

by Johan Inger and From Afar by Nicholas Blanc, danced by Alessandra Amato, Susanna Salvi, Claudio Cocino and Alessio Rezza of the Teatro dell'Opera di Roma Ballet Corps.

When asked in an interview about

25-31 JAN

38 | January 2022 • Wanted in Rome

25 FEB-3 MARCH

PARSONS DANCE 8-15 FEB

The new Italian tour of this muchloved American company. It will world premiere Eight Women to music by Aretha Franklin. The company will also dance the well-known Caught which dates back to 1982 and Microburst which has not been seen before in Italy. Teatro Olimpico, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano, www.teatroolimpico.it.

Wanted in Rome • January 2022 | 39

lassical lassical

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city.

The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city.

There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums.

Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it.

All www.filarmonicaromana.org.

The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All

concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica.

Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza,

Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone 32a, RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome.

often concerts, festivals and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and7 the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year.

There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades

by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards.

Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com 5040 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome | January 2022 • Wanted in Rome

MUSIC MUSIC THEATR THEATRE CINEMA CINEMA VENUES VENUES

cc

MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

c

inema inema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals.

See Wantedshow in Rome website for The following cinemas movies in English weekly updates. or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for Adriano, Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 weeklyPiazza updates.

Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel.

Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 0686391361 Barberini, Piazza BarberiniMastroianni 24-26, 1, tel.

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello 0686391361 tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 068553485 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel.

Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel.

068553485 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel.

Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel.

Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel.

Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 066861068 Odeon, Piazza Stefano 22, tel.

Nuovo Sacher, LargoJacini Ascianghi 1, 0686391361 tel. 065818116

Space Moderno, Piazza della 44, tel.

Odeon, Piazza Stefano JaciniRepubblica 22, tel. 0686391361 06892111 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel.

Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec06892111 chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

dd p p 38

Wanted in Rome | December 2017

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Teatro 06684000314, ww T Teatro Belli, 06684000314, ww ww T Teatro ww Brancaccio, ww T Teatro ww Ghione, ww T Teatro ww 06684000311, ww T 06684000311, ww

LEOŠ JANÁČEK

Kát’a Kabanová TEATRO COSTANZI JANUARY 18 - 27

CONDUCTOR DAVID ROBERTSON DIRECTOR RICHARD JONES TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA ORCHESTRA AND CHORUS

Ettore Festa, HaunagDesign - IIllustration by Gianluigi Toccafondo

A TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA NEW PRODUCTION IN COPRODUCTION WITH ROYAL OPERA HOUSE COVENT GARDEN

operaroma.it

FOUNDERS

PRIVATE SHAREHOLDERS

PATRONS

ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

op

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel.

0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel.

065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel.

Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,

t

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel.

06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel.

06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel.

Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel.

06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net 50 | Jan 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel.

0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel.

14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel.

065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel.

PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel.

0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel.

Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel.

06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel.

Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel.

0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel.

Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel.

063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Wanted Rome | 43 51 |inOct 2018• •January Wanted2022 in Rome

44 | January 2022 • Wanted in Rome

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By Kate Z

PIZZA MARGHERITA

HOW TO MAKE GREAT PIZZA AT HOME Making your own pizza from scratch is a surefire way to impress and is a fun activity to do with friends and family. This recipe is a simple way to make great pizza at home using a domestic kitchen oven and, while the result may not be exactly like a real Roman pizzeria, it allows you to unleash your creativity and add whatever toppings you choose.

Although the process of making the dough and leaving it to rise takes a while, this can be done in advance, so the actual topping and cooking of the pizza takes a matter of minutes. Cooking the base by itself for a few minutes before turning it over and adding the toppings will ensure a crunchy, non-soggy, crust, as will draining as much liquid as possible out of the mozzarella before using.

The quantities below will make enough pizza for about 4 people, but you can use whatever size and shape of metal baking tin you have at home.

For the base: 500g flour 00 1 x 7g sachet of dried yeast 3 pinches of salt 1 pinch of sugar 350ml water Extra virgin olive oil

For the topping: 4 x 250g balls of mozzarella (fior di latte) 1 large jar of tomato passata Fresh basil leaves Sieve the flour into a large bowl. Add the yeast, salt and sugar and pour in the water. Mix everything together with a fork, once the dough starts to come together, tip it onto a floured board or work surfaced. Continue to knead with your hands, constantly pushing the dough back onto itself, until you have a soft, elastic consistency. If the dough is too wet, add a little flour; if it is too dry add a little more water or a drop of olive oil.

In a clean bowl pour in about 4 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil. Place the ball of dough into the bowl, cover with plastic cling film and put the bowl into the oven (turned off) or a dark cupboard. Leave it to prove for at least 3 hours until the dough has doubled in size.

Once the dough has risen, tip it back onto a floured surface along with the oil. Knead it well until the texture is smooth and soft. Divide the dough into pieces (the size depends on the baking tins you have and how thick you want the base of your pizza) and leave it to rest while you prepare the topping. Turn the oven on to heat to its highest temperature.

Pour the passata into a bowl, add a splash of olive oil and a pinch of salt and mix well. Cut the mozzarella into cubes and use your hands to squeeze out as much liquid as possible to ensure that the pizza will not be soggy.

Grease the baking tins with olive oil. Push the dough into the tins using your hands, try not to create any holes.

Put the pizza into the lowest part of the oven and cook for 5-8 minutes then turn the base over in the tin. Spread the passata over the pizza and add some mozzarella and a drizzle of olive oil then place the pizza back into the low shelf of the oven for about 5 more minutes until the edges are crispy and the mozzarella has melted. Add a few fresh basil leaves and serve immediately.

Coromandel, Via di Monte Giordano 60/61, tel. 0668802461.

Dolce, Via Tripolitania 4, tel. 0686215696.

Ketumbar, Via Galvani 24, tel. 0657305338.

‘Na Cosetta, Via Ettore Giovenale 54, tel. 0645598326.

Indirizzi

Queen Makeda, Via di S. Saba 11, tel. 065759608.

Ciclostazione Frattini, Via Pietro Frattini 136/138, tel. 065503707.

Atlas Coelestis, Via Malcesine 41, tel. 0635072243.

Porto Fluviale, Via del Porto Fluviale 22, tel. 065743199.

Rosti al Pigneto, Via Bartolomeo D’Alviano 65, tel. 062752608.

Doppiozero, Via Ostiense 68, tel. 0657301961.

Misto, Via Fezzan 21, tel. 0645471971.

Il Bistrot delle Officine Farneto, Via dei Monti della Farnesina 77, tel. 0690286945.

Mavi, Lungotevere di Pietra Papa 201, tel. 065584801.

Where to brunch in Rome Our picks of the best restaurants and cafes serving brunch on weekends – from Eggs Benedict to American-style pancakes.

QUEEN MAKEDA GRAND PUB Each Sunday Queen Makeda offers an international brunch of dishes from the wok, noodles, salads, eggs, homemade tarts, vegetables, baked potatoes, artisan sausages and wurstel. There’s also the option of a British-style Sunday roast lunch, which includes beef, chicken, lamb, pork and Yorkshire puddings. Don’t miss the desserts, the 40 different craft beers available, the juices and the tasty nonalcoholic drinks. On the children’s menu (there’s also a supervised kids’ play area) you’ll find burgers, chips, tomato pasta and hot dogs. Sun 12.30-16.00.

COROMANDEL Located near Piazza Navona, this cafe recreates the feel of a cosy 1950s home. If you fancy English-style eggs or pancakes for breakfast, then this is your place. On the menu you’ll find: simple eggs, omelette with roast potatoes and sausage, and either pancakes with bacon and maple syrup, scrambled eggs, maple syrup and icing sugar, or sweet pancakes with chocolate and hazelnut sauce, banana and flaked almonds. There are also smoothies, yogurt and fruit. Sat-Sun from 11.00-15.00.

DOLCE For a New York-style Sunday brunch, head to Dolce, the restaurant and bakery in the Africano district. The kitchen is transformed into a bakery with a menu brimming with international cuisine. From eggs to pancakes, or even to sandwiches, sweet and savoury are placed side by side.

You can choose between an omelette with three fillings of your choice, or an Eggs Benedict on toasted bread baked in-house. Sun 12.00-15.00.

KETUMBAR Ketumbar’s organic brunch, served at weekends, is the talk of Testaccio. There’s a buffet ranging from antipasti to cakes and pastries, that changes seasonally. There are also many different soups, cous cous, dark taragna polente, fritters, hummus, cod au gratin, granary focaccia, salads and vegan dishes. The menu is accompanied by organic wine and artisan beers. At Ketumbar, brunch is also baby-friendly.

There’s a kid’s menu and a space dedicated to young children, cared for by qualified minders. Sat-Sun 12.30-16.00.

‘NA COSETTA In this Italian bistro in Pigneto, you can enjoy brunch, otherwise known in Italian as the ‘colanzo’. Dishes are both sweet and savoury and stick to a true Italian style with a few of the chef’s special touches. Pastries and cakes are made by pastry chef Stefania Guerrizio. Sun 12.30-16.00.

CICLOSTAZIONE FRATTINI If you’re on the hunt for a place in the Portuense district where you can sit outside and let your kids run about, Ciclostazione Frattini should be your go-to brunch spot. A restaurant, pizzeria and grill, here the whole family can have fun in the indoor Baby Garden and Baby Park. The menu includes more than 30 options, ranging from fresh artisan pasta to homemade cakes and desserts. There are main courses such as meat and fish dishes, soups, cooked vegetables, salads, and cheeses. Sat-Sun 12.30-15.30.

ATLAS COELESTIS Here you can choose between ten different dishes, from antipasti to dessert, which change weekly. There are also roselline di pizza (baked pizza in the shape of roses) to taste, as the restaurant has reopened its pizza oven and in the evening it serves pizzas made with wholewheat flour.

On the kid’s menu you’ll find three different options for the main meal and ice cream for dessert. Sun 12.30.

PORTO FLUVIALE This crowded Ostiense restaurant offers a buffet brunch menu containing around 60 dishes: hot and cold pasta dishes, soups, raw salads and cooked vegetable dishes, meats, and cheeses served with a variety of tasty dips and sauces. Don’t forget to try the delicious pastries and cakes.

Sat-Sun 12.30-16.00.

ROSTI AL PIGNETO If you feel like spending the weekend outside in a huge garden suitable for children, Rosti is the place for you. For starters you can tuck into the gnocchi with tomato and basil sauce, cannelloni with ricotta and tomato, ravioli with burrata, tomato and basil, or vegetarian crepes. For main course there’s seasoned meat balls, veal steak with mushrooms, roast pork with honey, turkey nuggets with yoghurt and mustard, anchovies marinated in tarragon and chilli, or cod balls with tomato, as well as salads and desserts. Sat-Sun 12.30-16.00.

DOPPIOZERO Here you can enjoy a tasty brunch that benefits from its onsite bakery. The buffet at the weekend includes pasta, pizza (many different types), olive bread, cous cous, salmon, meat, buffalo mozarella and baked goods such as muffins and brownies. Sat-Sun 12.30-15.30.

MISTO Located in the Africano district, Misto serves club sandwiches, pancakes, muffins, salads, and seasonal fruits made into juices and smoothies. You can choose one dish from a choice of three: the club sandwich, fillet of salmon or veggie sandwich and then add either pancakes or a salad, then choose between a savoury muffin or Scottish scone, and select a fruit juice. Kids can enjoy either a savoury muffin or Scottish scone, pancakes, fruit salad or orange or blueberry juice. We also recommend trying one of the alcoholic fruit cocktails or a pomegranate spritz. Sun 11.30-15.30.

IL BISTROT DELLE OFFICINE FARNETO Every Sunday you can tuck into a tasty brunch at the bistro in Officine Farneto, on Via Monti della Farnesina. The dishes range from homemade fresh pasta to meat and fish courses, cooked vegetables and desserts. We recommend the freshly-prepared burgers. Sun from 12.30.

MAVI At Mavi you can enjoy a brunch that’s a little different – part buffet, part à la carte. On the buffet you’ll find eggs, savoury pancakes and many different salad recipes, while from the menu you can order dishes such as burgers, bagels, cakes and sweet pancakes. The buffet includes coffee, water and fruit juice. Sun 13.00-16.00.

www.puntarellarossa.it

Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com

Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

48 | January 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

50 | January 2022 • Wanted in Rome

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers • • • • • • •

Ambulance tel. 118 Carabinieri tel. 112 Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 Fire brigade tel. 115 Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 Police tel. 113 Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355

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