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THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME
WHAT'S+
ON
WHERE TO GO IN ROME
ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS
0 0 0 0 7
CONT
4. WHAT'S HAPPENING
IN ROME THIS SUMMER? Andy devane
8. EXPLORING PATRICA ON
A DAY TRIP FROM ROME Jan Claus Di Blasio
12. TOP 10 OUTDOOR POOLS IN ROME
MISCELLANY
14. 16. 18. 20. 22. 36. 41. 42. 44.
DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 PROGETTO GRAFICO: Dali Studio Srl IMPAGINAZIONE: Simona Castellari STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 30/06/2022
WHAT'S ON
28. 32. 32. 33. 34. 34. 36.
guide to Beaches near ROME ROME FOR children STREET ART guide MUSEUMS ART GALLERIES CULTURAL VENUES RECIPE puntarella rossa USEFUL NUMBERS
THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME
Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 14, Numero 7 JULY/AUGUST 2022 | € 2,00
EDITORIALS
EXHIBITIONS Classical Dance Festivals OPERA live music ART NEWS
CURRENTLY SUSPENDED Copies are on sale at: Newsstands in Rome Anglo American Bookstore, Via della Vite 102 Wanted in Rome, Via di Monserrato 49 Wanted in Rome Via di Monserrato 49 - tel. 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com editorial@wantedinrome.com www.wantedinrome.com www.wantedinmilan.com
WHAT'S+
ON
WHERE TO GO IN ROME ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS
Trappola d’Amore / Love Trap, David Allen Burns and Austin Young / Fallen Fruit. 2022. Commissioned by DART for the exhibition CRAZY’, curated by Danilo Eccher, Chiostro del Bramante, Rome, 2022. See page 30.
ENTS 4
WHAT'S HAPPENING IN ROME THIS SUMMER?
8
32
EXPLORING PATRICA ON A DAY TRIP FROM ROME
Classical
33 festivals
Summer in Rome
WHAT'S HAPPENING IN ROME THIS SUMMER? A SHORT GUIDE TO WHAT'S ON IN ROME DURING SUMMER 2022 Andy Devane
S
with opera classics including Carmen and The Barber of Seville as well as performances by dancer Roberto Bolle and a series of concerts by Italian singer-songwriter Claudio Baglioni.
Central to this bonanza of cultural activity is the city's Estate Romana programme, a broad spectrum of events including film festivals, theatre, opera, readings and live music, much of it taking place in the open air.
Literature An international literature festival will take place over five evenings in July in the spectacular setting of the Palatine Hill with a line-up of award-winning writers reading from texts written specially for the occasion.
Opera Rome’s summer opera festival returns to its historic base among the ruins at the Baths of Caracalla, after two years at the Circus Maximus,
Cinema Film festivals include Il Cinema in Piazza, held in Piazza S. Cosimato as well as two other locations in the suburbs, and Isola del Cinema on Tiber
ummer is in full swing in Rome as the city welcomes back a whole swathe of cultural events and festivals that were either cancelled or curtailed over the last two years due to Italy's covid restrictions.
Il Cinema in Piazza returns to Trastevere as well as two other locations this summer.
4 | July-August 2022 • Wanted in Rome
The Circus Maximus will host a concert by Rome's Eurovision-winning rockers Måneskin on 9 July.
Island. Both events take place outdoors and include films in their original language versions. There are also film festivals in Piazza Vittorio, at the Parco degli Acquedotti – Rome’s park of aqueducts, a return of the Floating Theatre at the lake in EUR, outdoor screenings at the Casa del Cinema in Villa Borghese and even at the Temple of Venus and Roma, against the backdrop of the Colosseum. One of the most anticipated cinematic events will take place on Via Veneto which will turn into an open-air cinema for the screening of the restored version of William Wyler’s 1953 classic Roman Holiday. The free event on 24 July will be open to 600 people, with seats subject to availability. Theatre Theatre fans can enjoy the Shakespearean festival at the Globe Theatre in Villa Borghese where Italian-language productions including A Midsummer Night’s Dream and Macbeth will be presided over by new artistic director, the Oscarwinning composer Nicola Piovani. There is theatre under the stars elsewhere too thanks to the Tor Bella Monaca Theatre Festival, along with summer theatrical programmes at Villa Pamphilj and Teatro India. Rock and pop Rome serves up an eclectic selection of rock and pop concerts during July thanks to the city’s two main live music festivals, Roma Summer Fest – at the Auditorium Parco della Musica – and
Rock in Roma – based at the Ippodromo delle Capannelle, the Cavea at the Auditorium Parco della Musica, and the Circus Maximus where Rome’s Eurovision-winning rockers Måneskin will perform a sold-out show on 9 July. The festivals’ line-ups feature veteran acts including Simple Minds, Deep Purple and the Chemical Brothers alongside solo artists including Ben Harper, Rufus Wainwright and Patti Smith. Jazz Jazz fans can enjoy outdoor performances by Italian and international musicians at the Casa del Jazz, acts including the Mike Stern Band, Roosevelt Collier, and Enrico Rava with the Fred Hersch Trio. There are also jazz and swing concerts each night at Villa Celimontana. Classical A musical highlight of the summer comes courtesy of Accademia Nazionle di S. Cecilia. Piero Monti conducts the S. Cecilia Orchestra and Chorus in a performance of Carl Orff’s Carmina Burana in the Auditorium's outdoor Cavea on 15 July. Classical music concerts also take place against the lush backdrop of Rome’s Botanic Gardens, thanks to the Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, and the Theatre of Marcellus, as part of the annual Concerti del Tempietto programme. Fashion The city hosts a unique fashion event on 8 July when the Spanish Steps will be transformed into a giant catwalk to showcase Valentino’s autumnWanted in Rome • July-August 2022 | 5
Valentino will stage a fashion show at the Spanish Steps on 8 July.
winter collections, after which the luxury fashion house will open its historic archives in Palazzo Mignanelli from 10-12 July. Museums Rome’s national and city-run museums open their doors free of charge on the first Sunday each month, with the next two appointments falling on 3 July and 7 August. Some of the capital’s big summer exhibitions include Titian at Galleria Borghese, Robert Doisneau at the Ara Pacis and Gianni Berengo Gardin at MAXXI. The city has a new museum, at the Baths of Diocletian, housing ancient artefacts that were rescued after being trafficked out of Italy illegally. The Baths of Caracalla also has a new treat for visitors: a reconstructed second-century home with frescoes dedicated to Roman and Egyptian gods. The centuries-old Festa de' Noantri tradition illuminates Trastevere each summer.
Time travel Each evening of the summer the Viaggi nei Fori project lights up the ruins of the Forum of Augustus and Forum of Caesar, with images, film and animation portraying life in ancient Rome. The spectacle can be watched from elevated seats alongside Via dei Fori Imperiali. A novelty on the city’s multimedia menu this year is the arrival of the Virtual Reality Bus that allows passengers to view the Imperial Fora, Colosseum, Palatine Hill, Circus Maximus and Teatro Marcello as they were in Roman times. Religion Last but not least, the city lays on some impressive religious pageantry over the summer too. The centuries-old Festa de’ Noantri procession sees a bejewelled and elaborately dressed statue of the Madonna paraded through the streets of Trastevere on 16 July, returning by boat along the river Tiber nine days later. However the most unusual religious event involves a snowfall during the height of summer outside the Basilica di S. Maria Maggiore. Every year on the night of 5 August the city relives a fourth-century miracle with the surreal spectacle of snow-like foam and suds falling from the sky, accompanied with live music by the Carabinieri band. For more details of events see our What’s On guide while for information about the Estate Roma programme see website, www. estateromana.com.
6 | July-August 2022 • Wanted in Rome
Wanted in Rome • July-August 2022 | 7
Travel
EXPLORING PATRICA ON A DAY TRIP FROM ROME DANTE’S PEAK IN CIOCIARIA: DISCOVERING PATRICA AND MONTE CACUME Jan Claus Di Blasio
T
he year 2021 witnessed a flurry of events centred on the 700th anniversary of Dante’s death and a small, inconspicuous town in the historic region of Ciociaria south of Rome chose to celebrate its very own, small connection with “il Sommo Poeta”. Patrica rests, partly hidden from sight, on a hill that descends gently from the eastern slopes of the Lepini mountains, overlooking the Sacco valley and in the shadow of Monte Cacume. This conical peak, though modest in height – its
altitude is just under 1,100 metres – is visible from afar and it is crowned by a 14-metre high steel cross placed there in 1903 by the inhabitants of Patrica in honour of the Jubilee year of 1900, which took place during the papacy of Leo XIII (a selection of pictures on display in the chapel on the mountain documents the local inhabitants’ efforts). However, this curious feature is not the main reason why the mountain is unusual, after all there are crosses of all shapes and sizes on most
Patrica is located in the province of Frosinone, south-east of Rome in the Lazio region.
8 | July-August 2022 • Wanted in Rome
Travel
Patrica sits on the eastern slopes of the Lepini mountains, in the shadow of Monte Cacume.
Apennine peaks, but rather because scholars believe that Dante, who travelled through Ciociaria and mentions other places in the region (such as Anagni), cites this specific peak in the following verses of Purgatory (IV, 25-27): “Vassi in Sanleo e discendesi in Nolli; montasi su in Bismantova e in Cacume con esso i piè; ma qui convien che omo voli”. In these verses, Dante compares the steep trail that he walked with Virgil on his journey to Purgatory – a feeling with which any amateur hiker can empathise – with the difficult ascent to four distinct locations, among which he lists Monte Cacume. Dante visited Ciociaria at the very least on two occasions, in 1294 and in 1301 when he was a member of a Florentine delegation that paid homage to Pope Celestine V (the pope of the Great Refusal) and Pope Boniface VIII (the pope of the Anagni Slap) and it is likely that the mountain peak left an impression on the poet. However Dante would not have found today’s marked trail so demanding as it is a moderate one that departs from Patrica and can be completed in three hours. More ambitious hikers can follow several other trails that lead deeper into the Lepini mountains (unfortunately, not a protected area yet) and are described in Stefano
Milani’s recent Italian-language guide, Monti Lepini. Guida Escursionistica. If you find yourself, however, out of breath – after all there is an elevation gain of almost 700 metres to be tackled – you can save face by halting at the many statues made of weathering steel that dot the trail. Each statue, created by local artist Cesare Pigliacelli and installed by volunteers from the local association L’Orchidea di Patrica, represents a character described in Purgatory – though their punishments are not as exciting as those reserved for the dwellers in Hell – along with the verses that accompany that character’s story. As you ascend past the different terraces of Purgatory, leaving behind great names such as Manfred of Swabia or Barbarossa, you find yourself, symbolically, closer to Paradise and upon reaching the peak, with views that reach as far as the Pontine archipelago, the climax is the fateful encounter that marks Dante’s next journey: you can discover who that is for yourselves! The mountain has a curious geological history; it is partly a klippe, an isolated residue of an older carbonate layer located, as a result of tectonic movements, on top of more recent waterproof clay layers. This is the reason why there are so Wanted in Rome • July-August 2022 | 9
Travel
Hikers can reach the peak of Monte Cacume, crowned by a 14-m high steel cross. All photos Jan Claus Di Blasio.
many springs along the poorly marked trail that circumambulates the peak which requires an additional 30-40 minutes and why the area is such a botanical treasure trove with dozens of wild orchid species (visit in May and early June and you’ll be rewarded with a treasure trove of wildflowers). Also, keep an eye out for the sparse ruins of the mediaeval Benedictine monastery and the fortified settlement known as the Castrum Cacuminis that once stood on the mountain: a seemingly impregnable position. If you plan your hike in the early morning or in the early afternoon, you should include a light meal at the only restaurant in the old town, the small and delightful Comedia Bistrot (book in advance), or stop off at the local pasticceria Ricordi Lievitati. It is also strongly recommended exploring the old town: try to spot the mysterious symbols that appear on the keystones of several stone portals and observe, discreetly, the unusual figures that decorate the secluded Giardino all’Italiana of 10 | July-August 2022 • Wanted in Rome
the 16th-century Palazzo Spezza, named after a noble family of Spanish origin that has owned the palace since the 18th century.
HOW TO GET TO PATRICA Patrica is best reached by car from the Ferentino exit on the A1 motorway, however there are limited Cotral bus connections from Frosinone train station for those without a car. Photography tip: the best viewpoint over the town of Patrica is located by the statue of Belacqua, a minor character from the Divine Comedy who was punished for his indolence and laziness!
Food
UK NATIONAL SETTLED IN ITALY BEFORE 1 JANUARY 2021? Make sure your residency in Italy is easily recognised. Request your new Carta di Soggiorno Elettronica from your local Questura as soon as possible. And don’t get confused…it isn’t the same thing as your electronic ID card. Find out more on gov.uk/livinginitaly
Wanted in Rome • July-August 2022 | 11
Pools TOP 10
OU T DO O R P O O L S I N RO M E Come mid-summer in Rome, most of us are in need of the cool of an outdoor pool to relax by. But Rome isn’t awash with them and most are part of privately-owned swimming and sports clubs or upmarket hotels. We’ve picked ten of Rome’s best, from New York-style rooftop pools with to-die-for views and a nice line in cocktails to family-friendly cheap and cheerful clubs. The € symbols represent ranking by price.
Piscina delle rose 1. ALDROVANDI PALACE
Small and very select city-centre oasis, La Ranocchia (meaning “little frog”) is shaded by overhanging palms and huge cream parasols. Arrive early as space is limited around this pool. Mon-Sun 10.00-19.30. Mon-Fri €45, Sat-Sun €50. 10- entry subscription €300. Via Ulisse Aldrovandi 15 (Parioli), tel. 063223993, www.aldrovandi.com. €€€€
2. BELLE ARTI
Free at weekends and well worth a mention for its fantastic central location tucked behind a church on Via Flaminia. A quiet atmosphere makes it good for those with very young children. Mon-Fri 07.00-21.00. €15. Sat-Sun 08.00-20.00. €25. Children aged 7-13 accompanied by adult pay €10 week day / €15 weekend. Via Flaminia 158 (Flaminio), tel. 063226529, www.circolotennisbellearti.it. €€
3. CAVALIERI HILTON
This Olympic-sized outdoor pool-witha-view is the crème de la crème of Rome’s pools if you like serious swimming. It’s large, luxurious and well worth the trip to Monte Mario. With a separate children’s pool. 09.00-19.00 daily. Weekdays €80 (adults) & €40 (children 6-11 years). Sat-Sun and bank holidays €115 (adults) & €57.50 (children 6-11 years). Via Alberto Cadlolo 101 (Monte Mario), tel. 0635091, www.cavalieri-hilton.it. €€€€€
4. CIRCOLO VALENTINI
Slightly shabby but friendly, family-run pool, used by locals. The adjoining restaurant will make up a lunchtime salad for around €4. 09.00-19.00. Weekdays €13, half-day €9, weekends €20, half-day €13. Kids 3-6 years €6. Via della Marcigliana 597, corner Via Bufalotta (Talenti/Prati Fiscali), tel. 0687120207, www.circolovalentini.it. €
Hotel Anantara Palazzo Naidi weekdays €35, weekend rate €50. Via delle Mura Gianicolensi 107 (Gianicolo), tel. 0658333405, www.grandhotelgianicolo.it. €€
7. HYDROMANIA
Think miles of water slides, wave machines, pools, South-Pacific-style thatched bars, shops and a mini-club. Weekdays 09.30-18.30, weekends 09.30-19.00. Daily adult rate €25, kids up to 12 years €15. Half day rate €15. Casal Lumbroso 33 (Aurelio), tel. 0666183183, www.hydromania.it. €€
8. PISCINA DELLE ROSE
Large pool perfect for families, swimming and canoeing lessons. Open daily 9.00- 19.00. Mon-Fri €12, €10 half- day, weekends €20, €16 half-day). Kids 3-12 years €8 per day. Viale America 20 (EUR), tel. 065926717, www.piscinadellerose.it. €€
9. HOTEL ANANTARA PALAZZO NAIDI
All-inclusive treatment at an enviable location in the heart of Rome. A tranquil rooftop pool overlooks Piazza della Repubblica. Access to the gorgeous pool requires booking a spa package that comes with a 50-minute massage. Daily 10.00-19.00. €150 per person. Piazza della Repubblica 47, tel. 06489381.
10. S.S.D. VITA
Professional, outdoor swimming pool arranges lessons for children and adults and has tennis courts and a gym. Open daily 10.00-18.30. Mon-Fri €10, €8 half-day, weekends €11, €9 half-day. Kids 4-8 years €8 per day. Children aged 10 upwards pay adult rate. Kids aged 5-10 €8, kids under 5 free. Via del Fontanile Arenato 66 (Aurelio), tel. 066634202, www.vitaclub.it. €
5. CLUB LANCIANI
A large tennis club with an outdoor pool offering lessons, free swimming and a children’s summer school. Weekdays 10.00-18.30. Three time slots 10.00-14.00, 12.00-16.30, 14.00-18.30. Adults €9 (per time slot), kids €6. Full day adults €12, kids €8. Sat-Sun 09.00-19.30. Time slots 09.00-14.00, 14.30-19.30 (Sat only 12.00-16.30). €11 adults, €9 kids. Full day adults €16, kids €12. Via di Pietralata 135 (Tiburtino), tel. 064181401, www.clublanciani.eu. €€
6. GRAND HOTEL GIANICOLO
Part of a luxury hotel, this pool is located in elegant surroundings with palm trees and views of Trastevere from the Gianicolo hill. Lunch and dinner served at pool-side restaurant. 09.00-19.00,
12 | July-August 2022 • Wanted in Rome
Hydromania
IB WORLD SCHOOL
A rewarding international education. Ages 2 to 18. Request information! +39 06 84482 651 romeinternationalschool.it
Wanted in Rome • July-August 2022 | 13
Beaches TOP 10
BE ACHES N E A R RO M E For all you beach-lovers here is a selection of resorts within easy reach of Rome. Each one, ordered from north to south, offers either stabilimenti (private beaches with entrance fees and changing facilities and refreshments) or spiaggia libera (free beach with the option to rent a lounge chair and/or umbrella), and all have children’s facilities. We also highlight the beaches that have been awarded Bandiera Blu (Blue Flag) status in 2022 for meeting the international quality standards for cleanliness.
Sabaudia
S. Marinella
S. MARINELLA
SABAUDIA
The northern-most beach on our list offers a small strip of white sandy beach with the choice of setting up camp at either the stabilimenti or spiaggia libera. There are two trains per hour leaving from Termini station for S. Marinella station and the journey takes about one hour. Popular with wind-surfers. Blue Flag 2022.
Famous for its beauty and spaciousness. Although predominantly spiaggia libera, there are a few stabilimenti to choose from. Cotral buses run from Rome’s Laurentina metro stop (line B) to Piazza Oberdan in Sabaudia. From here take the shuttle bus which runs up and down the local coastline. Sabaudia is also known for its Mussolini-era architecture. Blue Flag 2022.
S. SEVERA Located about 50 km north of Rome and less than 10 km south of S. Marinella. Take one of the regular Civitavecchia trains from Rome and the beach is a ten-minute walk from the station. There are numerous stabilimenti, restaurants and spiaggia libera and it is also known for the Italia Surf Expo which takes place every July.
FREGENE A former chic hotspot of the 1960s and 1970s, Fregene boasts long stretches of sand with both stabilimenti and spiaggia libera. Along the coast there is also a wide selection of family-oriented restaurants and less expensive tavole calde. Rome’s club scene tends to flock to Fregene and nearby Ostia (see below) in the summer months. Although Fregene isn’t the easiest place to reach by public transport, Cotral buses depart from Rome’s Valle Aurelia metro stop (line A) and the journey takes about one hour.
S. FELICE CIRCEO Nearly 100 km south of Rome are the beaches and crystal clear waters of Circeo. Stabilimenti abound but look for the spiaggia libera nearest the port: it definitely merits the mini-trek. Cotral buses leave for Circeo from the Laurentina metro station in Rome. Get off at the last stop and walk for ten minutes until you reach the beach. Blue Flag 2022.
TERRACINA Located just 10 km south of Circeo. From Termini station take the hourly regional train for Naples and get off at Monte S. Biagio. From there, take the bus for about 20 minutes until you reach the beach. Terracina has as many spiagge libere as stabilimenti and both are well-kept and clean, making it a popular destination for families. Blue Flag 2022.
OSTIA/CANCELLI
SPERLONGA
Ostia and the Cancelli (gates) are along the coast nearest Rome. Ostia is loaded with often pricey and trendy stabilimenti, while the Cancelli offer free beaches equipped with restaurants and bathrooms. Public transport takes less than an hour and you can use the same metro/bus tickets for public transport in Rome. Take the 070 express bus from EUR, or the Roma-Lido train from Porta S. Paolo beside the Piramide metro station (line B). To reach the Cancelli get off at the last stop and take the 07 MARE bus until you reach the gates numbered 1, 2, 3 etc.
The stabilimenti dominate this gorgeous getaway with picturesque views, leaving only narrow strips for the spiaggia libera. Take the regional train headed to Naples from Termini station and get off at Fondi-Sperlonga. Once there, take the Piazzoli bus for 20 minutes to Sperlonga, alternatively take a private taxi but be warned they are far more expensive than the €1.50 bus ticket. Blue Flag 2022.
ANZIO/NETTUNO These beaches are only ten minutes apart and are easily reached from Rome. One train per hour leaves from Termini station, stopping first at Anzio ( Blue Flag 2022) and then at Nettuno. The journey takes 60-70 minutes and the beaches are about a 10-minute walk from the respective train stations.
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GAETA This area has a quaint mediaeval town to explore and clean beaches. From Termini station take one of the frequent trains headed towards Naples, get off at Formia and take the bus for another 25 minutes until you reach Gaeta. For more information about transportation consult the Cotral and Trenitalia websites www.cotralspa.it, www.trenitalia.it. Blue Flag 2022.
Pools TOP 10
OU T DO O R P O O LS I N RO M E Come mid-summer in Rome, most of us are in need of the cool of an outdoor pool to relax by. But Rome isn’t awash with them and most are part of privately-owned swimming and sports clubs or upmarket hotels. We’ve picked ten of Rome’s best, from New York-style rooftop pools with to-die-for views and a nice line in cocktails to family-friendly cheap and cheerful clubs. The € symbols represent ranking by price.
Piscina delle rose 1. ALDROVANDI PALACE
Small and very select city-centre oasis, La Ranocchia (meaning “little frog”) is shaded by overhanging palms and huge cream parasols. Arrive early as space is limited around this pool. Mon-Sun 10.00-19.30. Mon-Fri €45, Sat-Sun €50. 10- entry subscription €300. Via Ulisse Aldrovandi 15 (Parioli), tel. 063223993, www.aldrovandi.com. €€€€
2. BELLE ARTI
Free at weekends and well worth a mention for its fantastic central location tucked behind a church on Via Flaminia. A quiet atmosphere makes it good for those with very young children. Mon-Fri 07.00-21.00. €15. Sat-Sun 08.00-20.00. €25. Children aged 7-13 accompanied by adult pay €10 week day / €15 weekend. Via Flaminia 158 (Flaminio), tel. 063226529, www.circolotennisbellearti.it. €€
3. CAVALIERI HILTON
This Olympic-sized outdoor pool-witha-view is the crème de la crème of Rome’s pools if you like serious swimming. It’s large, luxurious and well worth the trip to Monte Mario. With a separate children’s pool. 09.00-19.00 daily. Weekdays €80 (adults) & €40 (children 6-11 years). Sat-Sun and bank holidays €115 (adults) & €57.50 (children 6-11 years). Via Alberto Cadlolo 101 (Monte Mario), tel. 0635091, www.cavalieri-hilton.it. €€€€€
4. CIRCOLO VALENTINI
Slightly shabby but friendly, family-run pool, used by locals. The adjoining restaurant will make up a lunchtime salad for around €4. 09.00-19.00. Weekdays €13, half-day €9, weekends €20, half-day €13. Kids 3-6 years €6. Via della Marcigliana 597, corner Via Bufalotta (Talenti/Prati Fiscali), tel. 0687120207, www.circolovalentini.it. €
Hotel Anantara Palazzo Naidi weekdays €35, weekend rate €50. Via delle Mura Gianicolensi 107 (Gianicolo), tel. 0658333405, www.grandhotelgianicolo.it. €€
7. HYDROMANIA
Think miles of water slides, wave machines, pools, South-Pacific-style thatched bars, shops and a mini-club. Weekdays 09.30-18.30, weekends 09.30-19.00. Daily adult rate €25, kids up to 12 years €15. Half day rate €15. Casal Lumbroso 33 (Aurelio), tel. 0666183183, www.hydromania.it. €€
8. PISCINA DELLE ROSE
Large pool perfect for families, swimming and canoeing lessons. Open daily 9.00- 19.00. Mon-Fri €12, €10 half- day, weekends €20, €16 half-day). Kids 3-12 years €8 per day. Viale America 20 (EUR), tel. 065926717, www.piscinadellerose.it. €€
9. HOTEL ANANTARA PALAZZO NAIDI
All-inclusive treatment at an enviable location in the heart of Rome. A tranquil rooftop pool overlooks Piazza della Repubblica. Access to the gorgeous pool requires booking a spa package that comes with a 50-minute massage. Daily 10.00-19.00. €150 per person. Piazza della Repubblica 47, tel. 06489381.
10. S.S.D. VITA
Professional, outdoor swimming pool arranges lessons for children and adults and has tennis courts and a gym. Open daily 10.00-18.30. Mon-Fri €10, €8 half-day, weekends €11, €9 half-day. Kids 4-8 years €8 per day. Children aged 10 upwards pay adult rate. Kids aged 5-10 €8, kids under 5 free. Via del Fontanile Arenato 66 (Aurelio), tel. 066634202, www.vitaclub.it. €
5. CLUB LANCIANI
A large tennis club with an outdoor pool offering lessons, free swimming and a children’s summer school. Weekdays 10.00-18.30. Three time slots 10.00-14.00, 12.00-16.30, 14.00-18.30. Adults €9 (per time slot), kids €6. Full day adults €12, kids €8. Sat-Sun 09.00-19.30. Time slots 09.00-14.00, 14.30-19.30 (Sat only 12.00-16.30). €11 adults, €9 kids. Full day adults €16, kids €12. Via di Pietralata 135 (Tiburtino), tel. 064181401, www.clublanciani.eu. €€
6. GRAND HOTEL GIANICOLO
Part of a luxury hotel, this pool is located in elegant surroundings with palm trees and views of Trastevere from the Gianicolo hill. Lunch and dinner served at pool-side restaurant. 09.00-19.00,
Hydromania
Wanted in Rome • July-August 2022 | 15
ARTandSEEK Please note that there may be some English-language cultural workshops visitsof to variation to opening times atand some museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For these activities due to covid restrictions. It event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforis advisable to check websites for visiting kids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandsedetails and make reservation before going. ekforkids.com. Bioparco Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and offers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it. Bowling Silvestri This sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.
16 | July-August 2022 • Wanted in Rome
There are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com. Casa del Parco Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com. Casina di Raffaello Play centre in Villa Borghese offering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Raffaello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadiraffaello.it.
Cinecittà World This 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special effects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it. Climbing Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, Thurs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473. Explora The 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it. Go-karting Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it. Gymboree This children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, offering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it. Hortis Urbis Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it. Il Nido Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.
Luneur Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it. Rainbow Magicland The 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it. Time Elevator A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. The time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it. Zoomarine This amusement and aquatic park outside Rome offers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.
Wanted in Rome • July-August 2022 | 17
Rome’s artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant importantstreet street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre. Here is where to is find Rome’s mainthe street artstreet projects murals. from the centre. Here where to find main artand projects and murals around Rome. Esquilino Esquilino Murals Murals byby Alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Pistone, Nicola Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, Diamond. PiazzaMafredo Manfredo Fanti 47. Piazza Fanti 47.
Marconi Marconi The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artistSeth Seth is located in a street artist is located in a former former soap factory Via Antonio soap factory on Viaon Antonio AvogaAvogadro, opposite dro, opposite Ostiense'sOstiense’s landmark Gasometro. For For details see landmark Gasometro. details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com.
Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz Metropoliz This This former former meat meat factory factory inin the the outskirts of Rome is nowa astreet street outskirts of Rome is now art art museumasaswell well as as being museum being home hometoto some200 200squatting squatters,migrants. many of The them some migrants. The Museo dell’Altrodi e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altroveor diMAAM, Metropoliz, or MAAM, Metropoliz, is only open is only open on Saturdays, and on Saturdays, and features the work features the work of more than 300 of more than 300 artists including artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Edoardo Kobra, and GioDiamond. Pistone, Pistone, Sten&Lex See Sten&Lex, Pablo Echaurren and MAAM Facebook page for details. Borondo. See MAAM Via Prenestina 913. Facebook page for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense Ostiense Fronte Del by by Blu.Blu. Via Via del Porto Fronte Del Porto Porto del Fluviale. Porto Fluviale. Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Fluviale. Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Magazzini Shelley by Generali. Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense. Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Pigneto Ostiense. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Pigneto Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.
Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi. Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Fortebraccio. 2501 mural on Via Blu Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Francesco Baracca. Francesco Baracca. Prati Prati Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo Nuovo Mercato Trionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria. Andrea Doria. theSabotino. bear by Daniza the bear byDaniza ROA. Via ROA. Via Sabotino. Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Magee. Via Via The by Fintan Cristoforo Numai. Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals andand Gio Tunnel muralsby byMr MrTHOMS THOMS Pistone. Via Decio Mure.Mure. Gio Pistone. Via Decio Nido di di Vespe ViaVia del Nido VespebybyLucamaleonte. Lucamaleonte. Monte del Grano. del Monte del Grano. Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89. Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by byBlu. Blu.Via ViaCiciliano Ciciliano and and Via Via Murals Palombini (Casal Palombini (Casaldè dèPazzi). Pazzi). Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station. Metro B station. S.S. Basilio Basilio SanBa SanBa features features large-scale large-scale works on on the façades façades of in the of social-housing social-housingblocks blocks the disadvantaged north-east suburb of in the disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerasuburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. tion project includes works by Italian The project artistsregeneration Agostino Iacurci, Hitnesincludes and Blu works by Italian artists alongside Spain's Liqen. ViaAgostino Maiolati, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Spain’s Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, S. Giovanni Via Treia. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S. Giovanni Apulia corner of Via Farsalo. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.
18 | July-August 2022 • Wanted in Rome
It’s aa New NewDay Daybyby Alice Pasquini. It’s Alice Pasquini. Via Via Anton Ludovico. Anton Ludovico. S. Lorenzo S. Lorenzo Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Feminicide mural by Elisa Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo. Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi. Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Mural by by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Via Aquilonia. Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia. S. Pietro S. Pietro Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S. di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo. Gallo. Testaccio Testaccio Hunted byby ROA. ViaVia Galvani. HuntedWolf Wolf ROA. Galvani. #KindComments by by Alice Pasquini, Via #KindComments Alice Pasquini, Volta, Testaccio market. Via Volta, Testaccio market. Tor Pignattara Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via ViaAntonio AntonioTempesta. Tempesta. Dulk. Etnik.Via ViaBartolomeo Bartolomeo Perestrello Etnik. Perestrello 51. 51. Coffee Break Etam Cru. Via Coffee Break by Etamby Cru. Via Ludovico Pavoni. Ludovico Pavoni. Tom by Jef Via Gabrio TomSawyer Sawyer by Aerosol. Jef Aerosol. Via Serbelloni. Gabrio Serbelloni. Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema PasoliniVia by Acqua Diavù.Bullicante. Former Cinema Impero, Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Alessi. Herakut. Capua 14. GaleazzoVia Alessi. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Herakut. Via Capua 14. Oddi 6. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia Tor Big Marancia The City Life scheme features 14-m The Big City Life scheme tall murals by 22 Italian and features interna14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and tional street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia andartists Jerico.including The idea international street was to transform area's of Mr Klevra, Seth,the Gaia andblocks Jerico. flats into an open-air art museum. Via The idea was to transform the area’s Tor Marancia. www.bigcity.life.it. blocks of flats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.
Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth. Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.
Wanted in Rome • July-August 2022 | 19
ROME'S MAJOR
MUSEUMS IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS AND MAKE RESERVATION BEFORE GOING. VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.
Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums
Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.
STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian
Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.
Borghese Museum
Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.
Castel S. Angelo Museum
Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine
Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.
20 | July-August 2022 • Wanted in Rome
Crypta Balbi
Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.
Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia
Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.
MAXXI
Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.
Palazzo Corsini
Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.
Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale
Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.
Palazzo Altemps
Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.
Palazzo Barberini
Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme
Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.
Villa Farnesina
Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.
PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe
CITY MUSEUMS
Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.
Centrale Montemartini
Chiostro Del Bramante
Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.
Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.
Capitoline Museums
Doria Pamphilj Gallery
Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna
Galleria Colonna
Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.
MACRO
Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.
Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.
MATTATOIO
Giorgio de Chirico House Museum
Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.
Museo Barracco
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.
Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi
Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.
Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.
Keats-Shelley House
Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.
Museo storico della Liberazione
Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets
Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.
Museo Canonica
Palazzo Merulana
Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).
Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.
Museo Napoleonico
Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.
Wanted in Rome • July-August 2022 | 21
ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY
ART GALLERIES
1/9 Unosunove
1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.
A.A.M. Architettura
Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ff-maam.it.
Contemporary Cluster
Visual art, design, architecture, fashion design and beauty apothecary in a 17th-century palace. Via dei Barbieri 7, tel. 0668805928, www.contemporarycluster.com.
C.R.E.T.A.
Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Delfini, Via dei Delfini 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.
Dorothy Circus Gallery
Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.
Ex Elettrofonica
This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.
Fondazione Memmo
Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.
Fondazione Pastificio Cerere
This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.
Fondazione Volume!
The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.
22 | July-August 2022 • Wanted in Rome
Franz Paludetto
Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.
Frutta
This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.
Gagosian Gallery
The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.
GALLA
Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at affordable prices by artists working in various fields. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.
Galleria Alessandro Bonomo
Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.
Galleria Valentina Bonomo
Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.
Galleria Frammenti D’Arte
Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.
Galleria Lorcan O’Neill
High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.
Galleria della Tartaruga
Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.
Galleria Il Segno
Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.
- Since 1946 -
TRANSFORMING THE WORLD THROUGH EDUCATION World Class International Curriculum
Forest School
Leader in Technology Well-being Global Citizenship
Via di Villa Lauchli 180, 00191 Rome Tel: +39 06 362 91012 admissions@marymountrome.com www.marymountrome.com
MAXXI amazes you, always art
architecture design photography cinema
24 | July-August 2022 • Wanted in Rome
Galleria Mucciaccia
Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.
Galleria Russo
Operativa Arte Contemporanea
A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.
Pian de Giullari
This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.
Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.
Galleria Varsi
Plus Arte Puls
A dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di Grotta Pinta 38, tel. 066865415, www.galleriavarsi.it.
Gavin Brown's Enterprise
New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.
Il Ponte Contemporanea
Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.
RvB ARTS
Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.
Sala 1
Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.
This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.
La Nuova Pesa
S.T. Foto libreria galleria
Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.
MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea
Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.
Magazzino d’Arte Moderna
Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.
Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.
Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri
The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.
T293
Monitor
The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.
Nero Gallery
The Gallery Apart
Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.
This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.
Nomas Foundation
TraleVolte
This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.
Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.
Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.
White Noise Gallery
Based in the S. Lorenzo district, this gallery exhibits unconventional work by young Italian and international artists. Via della Seggiola 9, tel. 066832833, www.whitenoisegallery.it.
Wunderkammern
This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.
Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin
Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it. Wanted in Rome • July-August 2022 | 25
where to go in Rome
WHAT’S ON
Il Cinema in Piazza returns to Trastevere as well as two other locations this summer. See page 34.
Wanted in Rome • July-August 2022 | 27
EXHIBITIONS TITIAN: DIALOGUES OF NATURE AND LOVE 14 JUNE-18 SEPT
Galleria Borghese presents Tiziano: Dialoghi di Natura e di Amore, an exhibition of paintings by Titian. Curated by Maria Giovanna Sarti, the exhibition is centred around the Nymph and Shepherd, painted by the Venetian Master around 1565, on loan from the Kunsthistorisches Museum in Vienna as part of a cultural exchange programme between the two institutions. This painting will be exhibited alongside
Titian at Galleria Borghese. Ninfa e pastore, Vienna, Kunsthistorisches Museum.
other Titian works in the Borghese collection, including Sacred and Profane Love, painted circa 1514 early in the artist’s career. Galleria Borghese says the exhibition will examine some of Titian’s “constant themes”, including nature, love, and time. Galleria Borghese, Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5, www. galleriaborghese.beniculturali.it.
PICASSO AT RHINOCEROS GALLERY 10 JUNE-16 OCT
Le peintre et son modèle en plein air (1963) by Picasso at Palazzo Rhinoceros. Collection Intesa Sanpaolo.
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The Fondazione Alda Fendi Esperimenti stages a multimedia exhibition centred around a painting by Picasso at its Rhinoceros Gallery in Rome. The oil on canvas painting, titled Le peintre et son modèle en plein air, dates from 1963 and comes from the collection of the Intesa Sanpaolo bank. Never shown in Rome before, the work is central to the exhibition Picasso va, Picasso arriva which takes place across all floors of Palazzo Rhinoceros, located beside the Arch of Janus near the Circus Maximus. The exhibition’s title is a reference to Picasso’s Young Woman (1909) which was granted on loan to Palazzo Rhinoceros from the Hermitage Museum in St Petersburg and ended up at the centre of debate in the aftermath of Russia’s invasion of Ukraine. The Picasso exhibition can be visited for free – with reservations required –
see website Fondazione Alda Fendi Esperimenti, Via del Velabro 9, www. fondazionealdafendi-esperimenti.it.
ROBERT DOISNEAU 28 MAY-4 SEPT
The Ara Pacis museum in Rome hosts an exhibition dedicated to the legendary French photographer Robert Doisneau. Curated by Gabriel Bauret, the exhibition comprises more than 130 black and white photographs from the collection of the Atelier Robert Doisneau in Montrouge. The images on display capture the daily life and emotions of men and women who lived in Paris between the 1930s and 1950s, the most prolific period for Doisneau who was a champion of French humanist photography and a pioneer of photojournalism. Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel. 060608, www.arapacis.it.
GIANNI BERENGO GARDIN 4 MAY-18 SEPT
Rome’s MAXXI celebrates the legendary Italian photojournalist Gianni Berengo Gardin with an exhibition of 150 photographs. Titled The eye as vocation, the show is described by MAXXI as a “unique visual heritage” that spans from the post-war period up to the present day. Berengo Gardin, aged 92, was present at the inauguration of the exhibition which is curated by Margherita Guccione and Alessandra Mauro. The black and white photographs on show include his most famous as well as some lesser-known and previously unpublished images, and reflect the photographer’s wide-ranging career. The exhibition highlights the distinctive features of Berengo Gardin’s research, including people and the various spaces they occupy in society, as well as his reportage photography for iconic Italian companies. Central themes of the images on display include industry, workers’ struggles, psychiatric hospitals, gypsies, Venice, the earthquake-hit L’Aquila, and everyday life. Museo nazionale delle arte del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4/A, www.maxxi.art.
Robert Doisneau at the Ara Pacis.
DISNEY: THE ART OF STORYTELLING 15 APRIL-25 SEPT
Palazzo Barberini stages an exhibition dedicated to Disney, the world’s most famous animation studios. The interactive show displays original Disney sketches from hand-drawn classics from the 1930s up to modern-day sequences created using the most sophisticated digital technology. The exhibition highlights Disney’s extraordinary ability to translate literature into moving images, tracing the immortal stories back to the myths and children’s fairy tales of yesteryear. The show provides insights into the artistic production of timeless characters and classic movies such as Snow White, The Little Mermaid, Fantasia and Pinocchio, as well as the films’ much-loved soundtracks. Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, www. mostradisneyroma.it.
IL VIDEO RENDE FELICI, VIDEOARTE IN ITALIA 12 APRIL-4 SEPT
Valentina Valentini curates an exhibition devoted to Italian video art taking place in two venues: Palazzo delle Esposizioni on Via Nazionale and Rome’s municipal Gallery of Modern Art (GAM) on Via Francesco Crispi. The show delves into the production of video art in Italy, a leading protagonist of the experimental genre, from the late 1960s to the present day.
On display are 20 installations and about 300 multimedia works created by more than 100 artists. For details see Pala Expo website, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.
L’ELEFANTE E IL COLLE PERDUTO 8 APRIL-2 OCT
An exhibition at Trajan’s Markets recalls how the skull and left tusk of an extinct elephant species were discovered during excavations to make way for Via dell’Impero in 1932. The fossilised remains belonged to a straight-tusked elephant (Palaeoloxodon antiquus) a prehistoric species that roamed Europe and western Asia during the Ice Age. The surprise discovery came about during frantic works to bulldoze a path through the Velia or Velian hill – a spur between the Oppian Hill and the north side of the Palatine – as part of Mussolini’s plans to connect the Colosseum with Piazza Venezia. The new thoroughfare, today called Via dei Fori Imperiali, was inaugurated on 28 October 1932 on the 10th anniversary of the March on Rome, and soon became the principal venue for parades during the fascist regime. However the price paid by Rome’s artistic and archaeological heritage – due to the destruction of the Velia and the rushed nature of the excavation – was very high. First of all it meant the almost total loss of the garden of Villa Rivaldi, a Renaissance-era palace whose grounds stretched as far as the Basilica of Maxentius in the Roman
Wanted in Rome • July-August 2022 | 29
is known for his hyper-realistic sculptures and his huge following on social media. The show features 12 works, ranging from small carved river stones to the more recent monumental sculpture La Pietà and his high-profile Habemus Hominem bust of Pope Emeritus Benedict XVI. Piazza Venezia 5, www.mostrepalazzobonaparte.it.
CRAZY: MADNESS IN CONTEMPORARY ART 18 FEB-8 JAN
L'elefante e il colle perduto at Trajan's Markets. O. FERRETTI, Demolizioni per l'apertura di via dell’Impero con i resti dell'elefante preistorico, olio su cartone (1932) Museo di Roma, MR 812 (© Roma - Sovrintendenza Capitolina ai Beni Culturali - Museo di Roma).
Forum. Cutting through the Velia yielded rich archaeological finds from the Roman era, in particular the remains of a domus with wellpreserved frescoes and numerous statues. The unearthed treasures were collected hastily and crated off to city warehouses. The most surprising discovery was made on 20 May 1932, when numerous fossilised remains came to light, among them the elephant skull and tusk. The remains of the elephant are on display alongside archaeological finds, archive film footage and large watercolours of the Villa Rivaldi garden, painted before it was lost forever. Trajan’s Markets, on Via IV Novembre 94, www.mercatiditraiano.it.
CURSUS HONORUM 24 MARCH-2 OCT
Under the title “The government of Rome before Caesar”, this exhibition at the Capitoline Museums aims to illustrate the political roles that formed the backbone of the power system that governed Rome in the Republican age. The artefacts on display, examining the life of patricians as well as plebeians, are explained by “talking statues” in each room. For visiting details see website, www.museicapitolini.org.
LONDON CALLING: BRITISH CONTEMPORARY ART NOW 17 MARCH-17 JULY
Palazzo Cipolla stages an exhibition of British contemporary art by 13 globally renowned artists with strong links to London. The 30 works on display were created by artists from various generations, all of whom have either lived or studied in London. The exhibited artists were born over five decades, between 1937 and 1978: David Hockney, Michael Craig-Martin, Sean Scully, Tony Cragg, Anish Kapoor, Julian Opie, Grayson Perry, Yinka Shonibare, Jake and Dinos Chapman, Damien Hirst, Mat Collishaw, Annie Morris and Idris Khan. The pieces on show were created using diverse techniques including ceramics, painting, sculpture, drawing, photography and video. Palazzo Cipolla, Via del Corso 320, www. fondazioneterzopilastrointernazionale. it.
JAGO
12 MARCH-28 AUG
Palazzo Bonaparte reopens after two years with an exhibition devoted to the young Italian sculptor Jago, born Jacopo Cardillo in 1987, who
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Chiostro del Bramante presents a large-scale exhibition project curated by Danilo Eccher. The works of 21 international artists fill the venue’s internal and external spaces “because madness cannot have limits.” The exhibition, described as unpredictable and immersive, features 11 site-specific works displayed in rooms not normally open to visitors. The 21 artists include Petah Coyne, Ian Davenport, Janet Echelman, Lucio Fontana, Anne Hardy, Thomas Hirschhorn, Alfredo Pirri, Gianni Politi. Chiostro del Bramante, Arco della Pace 5, www. chiostrodelbramante.it.
GOOD NEWS: WOMEN IN ARCHITECTURE 16 DEC-11 SEPT
Rome’s MAXXI documents the growing presence of women, collectives and studio couples in the architectural profession as it shakes off the 20th-century stereotype of the architect of the charismatic (male) grandmaster. The exhibition examines how new figures are infusing new forces into contemporary architecture, with a particular focus on the work of international studios directed or co-chaired by female designers. MAXXI, which was designed by the celebrated Zaha Hadid, pays tribute in the show to architects including Charlotte Perriand, Elizabeth Dillerand and Frida Escobedo alongside a series of video interviews. Museo nazionale delle arte del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4/A, www.maxxi.art.
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Classical ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA CARMINA BURANA 15 JULY
Piero Monti conducts the S. Cecilia Orchestra and Chorus in a performance of Carl Orff’s Carmina Burana in a version for soloists, chorus, two pianos and percussion. The production takes place in the Cavea amphitheatre of the Auditorium Parco della Musica. For ticket details see S. Cecilia website. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36. Sala S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it.
ISTITUZIONE UNIVERSITARIA DEI CONCERTI CLASSICA AL TRAMONTO 14 JUNE-26 JULY
The Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti (IUC) holds a series of classical music concerts at sunset in Rome’s Botanic Gardens this summer. Under the title Classica
Concerti dei Tempietto at the Theatre of Marcellus.
al Tramonto, the Chamber Music Festival is organised each summer in the beautiful setting of the Orto Botanico, hidden away in the Trastevere district. Organisers say the concert series consists in presenting some of the best Italian soloists and groups, young but already established. Tickets for each concert costs €10 (+ €4 entrance to the Orto Botanico). On evenings in which two concerts are scheduled - one at 20.30 and one at 21.30 - it is possible to purchase both (mini-season ticket) at the discounted price of €16 (+ €4 admission fee). For programme
details see IUC website, www. concertiiuc.it.
CONCERTI DI TEMPIETTO 1 JULY-2 OCT
Concerti del Tempietto, Rome’s summer-time series of classical music concerts, is held in the archaeological site of Teatro di Marcello. This longrunning tradition offers audiences a concert each night, ranging from classical to jazz and folk music, by both established and upcoming musicians. For full details including ticket information see Tempietto website, www.tempietto.it.
DANCE ROME TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA ROBERTO BOLLE AND FRIENDS 25-26 JULY
An annual favourite on the summer programme of Teatro dell’Opera di Roma which returns to its historic setting at the Baths of Caracalla after two years at the Circus Maximus. The event sees Roberto Bolle direct and perform alongside some of the biggest stars of the international
Roberto Bolle at the Baths of Caracalla.
dance world, in a tradition begun more than a decade ago. For details
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see Teatro dell’Opera website, www. operaroma.it.
FEstivalS Il CINEMA IN PIAZZA 3 JUNE-31 JULY
Rome film fans can enjoy watching movies on the big screen under the stars again this summer with the return of Il Cinema in Piazza. The free event takes place in three different locations. Screenings are held at 21.15, every night except Monday and Tuesday. Booking is not required and the majority of the films are screened in their original language with subtitles in Italian. In addition to its base at Piazza S. Cosimato in Trastevere, the eighth edition of the festival returns to Casale della Cervelletta in Rome’s eastern suburbs and Monte Ciocci park at Valle Aurelia. Il Cinema in Piazza once again hosts a range of international special guests including Wes Anderson, David Mamet, Paweł Pawlikowski and Fanny Ardant, with Pietro Castellitto and Carlo Verdone among the stars of Italian cinema. There are also tributes to Libero De Rienzo, Pier Paolo Pasolini, Massimo Troisi, Mel Brooks and Alfred Hitchcock. The full programme is available on the Cinema in Piazza website, www. ilcinemainpiazza.it.
Isola del Cinema on Tiber Island. Photo Zero.
Celimontana features 100 concerts, starting at 22.00, with music by Italian and international acts ranging from jazz and big band to swing, soul and rock’n’roll. This year’s festival, in its seventh edition, is dedicated to Doris Day and Judy Garland on their centenaries. As usual there is a bar and street food at the festival which can be accessed from Piazza della Navicella. Free entry. For programme see Village Celimontana website, www. villagecelimontana.it.
SHAKESPEARE AT THE GLOBE 10 JUNE-16 OCT
Italian composer Nicola Piovani has been named the new artistic director of Rome’s Globe Theatre in Villa Borghese, succeeding the late Gigi Proietti who directed its annual Shakespearean festival for 4 JUNE-28 AUG 17 years. Piovani is best known The outdoor jazz and swing music internationally for winning the festival returns to the park of 1999 Best Original Dramatic Villa Celimontana this summer. Score Oscar for the music in the The diverse programme of Village Roberto Benigni film La Vita è bella. The 2022 programme of the Shakespearean festival, now in its 19th edition, includes Italian-language productions of The Merry Wives of Windsor (24 June-10 July), The Comedy of Errors (15-31 July), A Midsummer Night’s Dream (3-14 Aug), and Macbeth (2-25 Rome's Shakespearean festival at the Globe Theatre. Sept). Last year the
VILLAGE CELIMONTANA
Globe Theatre was renamed after Proietti, the much-loved actor, director and comedian who died in November 2020 on his 80th birthday. The decision was taken in collaboration with the Silvano Toti Foundation, which financed the theatre’s construction in 2003, with the building now titled the Gigi Proietti Globe Theatre Silvano Toti. Built in just three months, the theatre was the result of an idea by Proietti who directed and performed in the festival every year until his death. The building is a full-scale timber reproduction of Shakespeare’s Globe, copied from the original oak and thatch designs, almost identical to the one that stands on London’s South Bank. For details see website, www.globetheatreroma.com.
ISOLA DEL CINEMA 16 JUNE-3 SEPT
The film festival Isola del Cinema returns for its 28th edition, lighting up Isola Tiberina in Rome’s river Tiber each evening this summer. The multi-faceted festival includes 80 nights of screenings, encounters, masterclasses and discussions with important figures from the world of film. The 2022 programme comprises films by emerging directors, independent cinema, documentaries and major international productions, including cult classics and films screened in their original language. The festival’s world cinema section, Isola Mondo, features independent international movies, organised in collaboration
Wanted in Rome • July-August 2022 | 33
with embassies and foreign cultural institutions in Italy. Novelties this year include special tributes to Monica Vitti, Ennio Morricone, Vittorio Gassmann and Ugo Tognazzi. For details see Isola del Cinema website, www.isoladelcinema.com.
LETTERATURE 12-21 JULY
Rome’s international literature festival returns for its 21st edition this summer, taking place in the spectacular setting of the Palatine
OPERA ROME TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA MASS BY LEONARD BERNSTEIN 1 JULY-5 JULY
Bernstein’s musical theatre work for singers, players and dancers was first performed at the Kennedy Centre in Washington DC in 1971 and was part of the inaugural
Hill over five evenings in July. The prestigious event, organised by the Istituzione Biblioteche di Roma in collaboration with the city and the Parco Archeologico del Colosseo, features a host of award-winning Italian and international authors who will read from their work, supported by actors, live music and light effects. The festival will see writers read new texts written especially for the festival, inspired by this year’s theme – Tempo Nostro (Our Time) – in which award-winning writers will reflect
programme. This is a new Teatro dell’Opera di Roma production. Conducted by Diego Matheuz and directed by Damiano Michieletto. Terme di Caracalla for the Teatro dell’Opera summer season.
CARMEN GEORGES BIZET
on the contemporary and look at the present with new eyes. The line-up includes Javier Cercas, Andrew O’Hagan, Dacia Maraini, Colson Whitehead, Rivka Galchen, Alessandro Piperno, Khadija Abdalla Bajaber, Patricia Engel, David Leavitt and Arturo PérezReverte. All events are free of charge but must be booked in advance, subject to availability. The evenings start at 21.00, with access to the Palatine Stadium from 20.30. For full details see website, www.culture. roma.it/festivaldelleletterature/.
BARBER OF SEVILLE 2-9 AUG
This production of Rossini’s opera, which was first performed in Rome in 1816, is conducted by Stefano Montanari and directed by Lorenzo Mariani. Baths of Caracalla for the Teatro dell’Opera summer season.
15 JULY-4 AUG
This production of Bizet’s opera in four acts is conducted by Jordi Barnàcer and directed by Valentina Carrasco. It was first produced for the summer season at the Terme di Caracalla in 2017. Terme di Caracalla for the Teatro dell’Opera summer season.
Teatro dell'Opera returns to the Baths of Caracalla
LIVE MUSIC ROCK IN ROMA 10 JUNE-30 JULY
Rock in Roma returns this summer after a two-year hiatus due to covid with more than 40 concerts in three locations: Ippodromo delle Capannelle, Auditorium Parco della Musica, and the Circus Maximus where Maneskin will perform a sold-out show on 9 July. This year's festival offers a multigenre programme with a mix of Italian and international artists, both established and emerging. The line-up includes Achille Lauro,
Ariete, Blanco, Caparezza, Carl Brave, Cigarettes After Sex, Guè, Litfiba, Chemical Brothers, Herbie Hancock and Skunk Anansie. For full details see www.rockinroma. com.
ROME SUMMER FEST 10 JUNE-26 SEPT
The Auditorium Parco della Musica hosts Rome Summer Fest which returns with a varied programme of Italian and international acts. Now in its 20th year, the festival hosts big-name Italian artists such as Paolo Conte and Elisa alongside
34 | July-August 2022 • Wanted in Rome
Måneskin will perform a sold-out show at the Circus Maximus for Rock in Roma.
world-famous bands including Pixies, Deep Purple, Simple Minds, Kasabian, The Smile with Thom Yorke, and solo artists including Paolo Nutini, Ben Harper, Gregory Porter, Rufus Wainwright and Patti Smith. For full details see www. auditorium.com.
Wanted in Rome • July-August 2022 | 35
ART NEWS NEW MUSEUM OF RESCUED TREASURES IN ROME
Italy has opened a new museum showcasing ancient artefacts that were stolen from archaeological sites and trafficked abroad before being rescued by art police. The Museum of Rescued Art is housed in the Octagonal Hall at the Baths of Diocletian, part of the National Roman Museum network in Rome. The collection boasts 260 Etruscan, Greek and Roman artefacts, many of which were looted by tomb-raiders or tombaroli before making their illicit way into private collections, museums and auction houses. The majority of the pieces in the new museum’s rotating collection were seized as part of a $10 million repatriation overseen by the Manhattan district attorney’s office in collaboration with the TPC cultural heritage unit of the Carabinieri. “Stolen works of art and archaeological finds that are dispersed, sold or exported illegally is a significant loss for the cultural heritage of a country”, said Italian culture minister Dario Franceschini, who added that the protection of these treasures is “an institutional duty, but also a moral commitment”.
ROME DOMUS WITH FRESCOES OF ROMAN AND EGYPTIAN GODS
The visitor experience at the Baths of Caracalla in Rome has been further enriched with the opening to the public of a reconstructed ancient private home housing a prayer room with frescoes dedicated to Roman and Egyptian deities. The frescoes on display come from an early second-century domus
Museo dell'Arte Salvata at the Baths of Diocletian.
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which was unearthed in the 19th century, near the eastern gymnasium of the Baths, before being detached for conservation purposes in the 1970s. Significantly the frescoes feature depictions of “Jupiter, Juno and Minerva together with Anubis, Isis and probably Serapis”, said Mirella Serlorenzi, director of the Baths of Caracalla. She says this is proof that the ancient Romans engaged in “religious syncretism”, or worshipping gods of different cults at the same time, in their private homes. The original building, constructed during the reign of Emperor Hadrian, was part of a neighbourhood that was partially demolished to make way for the Baths of Caracalla which opened in 216 AD. “In addition to the beauty and interest of these paintings, visitors will be able to grasp a piece of history and the transformations of the ancient city”, said Daniela Porro, Rome’s archaeological superintendent.
ANCIENT ROME COMES TO LIFE WITH VIRTUAL REALITY BUS
Rome is to launch the city’s first Virtual Reality Bus, an immersive 3D experience which brings to life the central archaeological area of the capital. It is now possible to travel among the archaeological remains of ancient Rome and discover how they looked 2,000 years ago, thanks to the Virtual Reality Bus, a 16-seater electric vehicle equipped with cutting-edge technology. Passengers on the bus can view the Imperial Fora, Colosseum, Palatine Hill, Circus Maximus and Theatre of Marcellus using “visor free” VR
Experience the Rome of 2,000 years ago on the Virtual Reality Bus.
technology, with all imagery created by visual effects specialists under the guidance of archaeologists. The 3D displays are visible directly on the OLED screens superimposed on the windows of the bus, with a system of motorised curtains that allows tourists to compare the present with the past. “The VrBus project will allow visitors to literally immerse themselves in the history of Rome”, said the city’s mayor Roberto Gualtieri, describing it as a “one-of-a-kind initiative” that will take tourists and Roman residents “on a journey to discover Rome’s past.” Imperial Rome - Virtual Reality Bus is active every day from 16.20 to 19.40 (last trip), departing from Piazza della Madonna di Loreto, at the Trajan’s Column end of Via dei Fori Imperiali. The itinerary, lasting 30 minutes, is available in Italian and English. Tickets can be bought online or at the ticket office. For details see website, www.vrbusroma.it.
ROME TO REOPEN CATACOMBS OF COMMODILLA
The fourth-century Catacombs of Commodilla in the Garbatella area of Rome will soon reopen to the public following restoration works by the Vatican’s Pontifical Commission of Sacred Archaeology. Named after a Christian matron who owned or donated the site, the catacombs can be found under the Parco di Villa Giovannipoli, on Via delle Sette Chiese. The underground complex, once a pozzolana quarry, is spread out over three levels on what was the ancient Via Ostiensis. The site contains the crypt with the tombs of the fourth-century martyrs Felix and Adautto, two priest brothers said to have been killed during the Christian persecution under Emperor Diocletian, about the year 303. In the underground church there are frescoes of Christ handing over the keys to St Peter,
The Baths of Caracalla unveils new treasures.
flanked by St Adautto and St Merita, alongside a depiction of St Paul, St Felix and St Stephen Orante. A peculiarity of the Catacombs of Commodilla, which distinguishes them from other Roman catacombs, is the presence of deep square pits with up to 20 loculi arranged in the walls and superimposed on each other, probably due to high demand and lack of space. An inauguration ceremony was held on 24 June to mark the completion of the restoration of the catacombs, attended by the head of the Pontifical Commission of Sacred Archaeology, Cardinal Gianfranco Ravasi, and the president of the local council, Amedeo Ciaccheri. “A mirror city that sleeps beneath us can be visited again and is an exception that only Rome can offer” – said Ciaccheri – “It is an important step in view of the 2025 Jubilee to return a hidden treasure to the city and to the world”. For visiting details see official website, www.catacombeditalia.va. Andy Devane Wanted in Rome • July-August 2022 | 37
lassical lassical
The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city. The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city. There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums. Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All
concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica. Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza,
Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone 32a, RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome.
often concerts, festivals and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com
Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and7 the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards. Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com 5038 | Oct 2018 • Wanted Rome in Rome | July-August 2022in • Wanted
MUSIC MUSIC THEATR THEATRE CINEMA CINEMA VENUES VENUES
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MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA
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The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wantedshow in Rome website for The following cinemas movies in English weekly updates. or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for Adriano, Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 weeklyPiazza updates. Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 0686391361 Barberini, Piazza BarberiniMastroianni 24-26, 1, tel. Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello 0686391361 tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it
Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 068553485 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 068553485 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 066861068 Odeon, Piazza Stefano 22, tel. Nuovo Sacher, LargoJacini Ascianghi 1, 0686391361 tel. 065818116
Space Moderno, Piazza della 44, tel. Odeon, Piazza Stefano JaciniRepubblica 22, tel. 0686391361 06892111 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec06892111 chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111
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Wanted in Rome | December 2017
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Teatro 06684000314, ww T Teatro Belli, 06684000314, ww ww T Teatro ww Brancaccio, ww T Teatro ww Ghione, ww T Teatro ww 06684000311, ww T 06684000311, ww
AUGUST 4
GEORGES BIZET
Carmen AUGUST 3
ROLAND PETIT
Notre-Dame de Paris AUGUST 2, 5, 7, 9
GIOACHINO ROSSINI
Il barbiere di Siviglia TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA ORCHESTRA, CHORUS AND CORPS DE BALLET
Caracalla MMXXII
operaroma.it
PARTNER CARACALLA 2022
FOUNDERS
MAIN SPONSOR
PRIVATE SHAREHOLDERS
PATRONS
ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance
Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it
pera
Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
op
ock
Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.
Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it
Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,
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Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it
heatre heatre
Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net 50 | Jan 2019 • Wanted in Rome
Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel. 14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Wanted in51Rome • July-August | 41 | Oct 2018 • Wanted2022 in Rome
42 | July-August 2022 • Wanted in Rome
orski
ag By Kate Z
POLLO ALLA ROMANA A homecooked classic, this Roman-style chicken is a wonderful summer recipe which makes the most of the season’s bright, plump, bell peppers. Tender pieces of chicken are slowly cooked with tomato, peppers and onion until the meat is falling off the bone and the sauce becomes succulent, sweet and sticky. A true crowd-pleaser, in Rome it is commonly served for lunch on the Ferragosto holiday on 15 August. The recipe is in itself very simple and just requires a little time to prepare the peppers and let the ingredients work their magic. Although the dish can be served piping hot, it is just as satisfying when left to rest until room-temperature and should be served with plenty of bread to mop up the mouth-watering juices. Just make sure you have enough leftovers to pack into a sandwich the next day.
Ingredients 1 chicken, cut into pieces 4 red and yellow peppers 1 onion, roughly sliced 1 clove of garlic, peeled 500ml tomato passata 1 small bunch of fresh basil ½ glass white wine ½ glass extra virgin olive oil Salt Pepper To begin, preheat the oven to 200°C. Place the whole peppers on a baking tray, drizzle them lightly with oil and cook for 15 minutes until the skin starts to blister. Remove the peppers and, while still hot, put them into a plastic bag, tie the top and leave for 1 hour. Then remove the skins, slice into 1cm strips and put to one side. Meanwhile, heat the rest of the oil in a large saucepan and gently fry the garlic clove until it starts to turn golden, then add the pieces of chicken and season with salt and pepper. Fry the chicken until the skin has browned and then add the onion. Cook for 5 minutes before pouring in the white wine. After a couple of minutes, once the alcohol has evaporated, add the tomato passata and the fresh basil leaves, check the seasoning, adding more salt if required. Turn down the heat, cover the pan with a lid and cook for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. If the sauce becomes too dry add a little water to loosen it up. Add the sliced, peeled peppers, stir and then cook for a further 15 minutes before serving.
Indirizzi
Terrazza S. Pancrazio, Via di Po Osteria delle Coppelle Roma,
Pianostrada Rome, Via delle Z Trattoria da Teo Roma, Piazza
Marzapane al Caffè dell’Ope
Eating outside in Rome: the ten best restaurants with terraces and gardens Our favourite restaurants and trattorie with terraces and gardens, where you can eat outdoors in Rome during the warmer months. GIANICOLO – A COOL HANGOUT Yugo a S. Pancrazio Different plates of fusion cuisine are served on the S. Pancrazio terrace, a little north of Trastevere. With a menu curated by award-winning chef Anthony Genovese, here you can tuck into raw dishes, carpacci, tartare and ceviche, which are all accompanied by refreshing cocktails. IN THE CENTRE – A TRENDY NIGHT OUT Osteria delle Coppelle Lunch or dinner of traditional but creative first and second courses. There’s saltimbocca alla romana with speck and fried sage, and you can also choose between pizza, bruschette, home made pastries (€6) or a huge salad (from €9 to €12), with the option to eat outside in the piazza. TRASTEVERE – A GOURMET MEAL Pianostrada An elegantly styled restaurant with a lovely courtyard-garden, a great long bar and an exposed kitchen. You can try anything from fried antipasti (€10-13.50), salads, gourmet panini (€12.50-14.50), and excellent bread that’s made in house. We loved the artichokes alla giudìa, and the fig and sun dried tomato focaccia. Mon closed. TRASTEVERE – FOR ROMAN CUISINE Trattoria da Teo Serving traditional Roman cuisine, such as excellent amatriciana, broccoli and skate soup, coda alla vaccinara, roast lamb, or even a fresh plate of fish. There are ten tables inside and a beautiful veranda in the piazza. The amatriciana costs €9 while a single courgette flower (which are absolutely excellent) costs €1.50. Sun closed. CENTRE – A GOURMET MEAL Marzapane all’Opera The menu at Marzapane is an array of traditional Italian dishes made with fresh ingredients and is particularly fish-focused. We enjoyed the tomato bread with jamon from Bellota (€13), insalata di lingua (salad with tongue) seasoned with turmeric, capers and mustard, mezze maniche pasta with amatriciana sauce (€19). Mon closed.
MONTI – GOURMET PIZZA AND CEVICHE Madre With a beautiful outdoor space, Madre is one of the coolest hangouts in Monti. Gourmet pizza and ceviche (€18) are the most popular dishes and they are indeed delicious. However prices are quite a bit higher than average – a Margherita with buffalo mozzarella costs €15, while La Roja, with prawns and smoked buffalo mozzarella, costs €26. AVENTINO – A GOURMET MEAL The Corner Marco Martini At this award-winning restaurant and cocktail bar created by Marco Martini, you can dine in the beautiful terraced garden with a Liberty-style decor and sit yourself down on one of the couches or sink into an armchair. For lunch it is possible to order from one to three dishes costing between €10, €18 and €25; while for dinner there are different tasting menus costing from €95 to €200. GARBATELLA – FOR ROMAN CUISINE Ristoro degli Angeli All ingredients come from the local Garbatella market and the menu boasts quite a few vegetarian recipes. For the first course there’s the focaccina with lard (made from organic Tuscan pork) for €8 while for your second course, try the rolled rhombus fish filled with ginger-seasoned vegetables (€20). Sun closed. IN THE CENTRE – A GOURMET MEAL Osteria Siciliana This little piece of Sicily seats around 60 people, half indoors and the rest outside. You could begin with stuffed artichokes (€13), vegetable caponata (€12), or sardines alla beccafico (€15). For your first course we recommend spaghetti with salted tuna and Sicilian lemon peel (€20) or lobster soup with spaghetti (€26). TESTACCIO – FOR ROMAN CUISINE Flavio al Velavevodetto Great cooking and a very pleasant atmosphere, with both an internal courtyard and a stunning terrace for eating outside. Fish is served on Tuesdays and Fridays, gnocchi on Thursdays, and roast lamb on Saturdays. Try the handmade pasta alla gricia, amatriciana and carbonara (€9) or the meatballs in sauce (€12).
www.puntarellarossa.it
Porta S. Pancrazio 32. Piazza delle Coppelle 54, tel. 0645502826.
Zoccolette 22, tel. 0689572296. dei Ponziani 7, tel. 065818355.
era Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, tel. 0648160504.
Madre Roma, Largo Angelicum 1, tel. 066789046. The Corner Marco Martini, Viale Aventino 121, tel. 0645597350. Ristoro degli Angeli Roma, Via Luigi Orlando 2, tel. 0651436020. Osteria Siciliana Rome, Via del Leoncino 28, tel. 0668805283. Flavio al Velavevodetto, Via di Monte Testaccio 97, tel. 065744194.
Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com
International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com
Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it
Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com
Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)
46 | July-August 2022 • Wanted in Rome
Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30
Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00
Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680
Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it
48 | June 2022 • Wanted in Rome
St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022
Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606
Emergency numbers • • • • • • •
Ambulance tel. 118 Carabinieri tel. 112 Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 Fire brigade tel. 115 Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 Police tel. 113 Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355
CELEBRATING 50 YEARS OF AMERICAN EDUCATION IN ITALY