Wanted in Rome - July & August 2023

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WHERE TO GO IN ROME ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS + WHAT'S ON TH E ENGLI S H L A NG U A G E M A G A Z IN E I N RO M E P os t e I taliane S. p .a. Spe d . in ab b. pos t . DL 353/2003 ( C o n v . in L 27/02/2004 N.46) a r t . 1 c omma 1 A u t . C/RM/04/2013A nno 15, Nume r o 7 JULY-AUGUST 2023 | € 2,00 00007

CONTENTS

EDITORIALS MISCELLANY WHAT'S ON

4. HOW PAIDEIA AND MATER DEI ARE SHAPING THE FUTURE OF PRIVATE HEALTHCARE IN ITALY

Elizabeth Djinis

8. WHAT’S ON IN ROME THIS SUMMER?

Andy Devane

12. TOP 10 outdoor pools in ROME

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Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 30/06/2023

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WHERE TO GO IN ROME ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS + WHAT'S ON TH E ENGLI S H L A NG U AG E M AG A Z IN E N RO M E os e taliane S. .a. Spe in ab pos DL 353/2003 C v in 27/02/2004 N.46) omma C/RM/04/2013 A nno 15, Nume JULY-AUGUST 2023 2,00
See page 24.
Gilbert Halaby, Our Father Browne, 2023, oil on canvas, 40x40cm, From the exhibition Une Comédie Romaine. Courtesy: Maja Arte Contemporanea Gallery.
14. ROME FOR children 16. STREET ART guide 18. MUSEUMS 20. ART GALLERIES 34. CULTURAL VENUES 39. RECIPE 40. puntarella rossa 42. USEFUL NUMBERS
EXHIBITIONS 26. Classical 26. dance 28. festivals 28. OPERA
Culture NEWS
24.
32.

CONTENTS

4

HOW PAIDEIA AND MATER DEI ARE SHAPING THE FUTURE OF PRIVATE HEALTHCARE IN ITALY

22 EXHIBITIONS

8

WHAT’S ON IN ROME THIS SUMMER?

26 opera

HOW PAIDEIA AND MATER DEI ARE SHAPING THE FUTURE OF PRIVATE HEALTHCARE IN ITALY

INTERVIEW WITH ALBERTO DE ANGELIS, HEAD OF SALES AND INNOVATION MANAGER AT PAIDEIA AND MATER DEI

Italy may be a country that runs in large part on universal public healthcare, but private healthcare is increasingly making up a bigger share of the overall system.

Roughly 10 per cent of the Italian population has some type of private health insurance coverage, based on 2020 figures. That could be sponsored by an employer or purchased individually. But the number of private versus public hospital beds makes up a larger percentage than the country’s total insured versus uninsured population. Out of roughly 209,000 hospital beds available in Italy in 2017, some 44,000 of those—or more than 20 per cent —were housed in private accredited hospitals.

Rome’s Paideia International Hospital and the Mater Dei private clinic are a pivotal part of the country and region’s patchwork of private healthcare providers. Founded in the 1960s as a treatment practice for children, Paideia has steadily expanded past its initial purview to a surgical centre and eventually a private hospital in northern Rome. Last year, with increasing demands, the group opened a new international hospital in Roma Nord to serve more patients. The hospital was built with

environmental sustainability in mind — it boasts a solar thermal system that produces hot water and obtained a global energetic rating

4 | July-August 2023 • Wanted in Rome
Healthcare
Elizabeth Djinis Alberto De Angelis, head of sales and innovation manager at Paideia and Mater Dei.

in the A3 class, which is the second highest energy performance level.

Almost a year after its opening, we talked to Alberto De Angelis, the company’s head of sales and innovation manager, about what the future holds for healthcare at Paideia and Mater Dei—and for Italy.

What are the principal advantages of private healthcare over the public healthcare system in Italy?

First of all, the timing — we’re able to provide high-level service in a short amount of time. So, that helps with treatment, not just from the clinical perspective but from the perspective of service. We also always aim to provide the most up-to-date technology and stay competitive against our competitors.

For example, we are committed to managing our company with integrity by adhering to high standards of business ethics and, in fact, we are ESG compliant, in other words we meet environmental, social and governance standards and regulations. From a structural and systems point of view, we had the opportunity to build Paideia International from scratch, using cutting-edge materials and technology, installing a cogenerator, photovoltaic system and recharging points for electric cars. We are immersed in Parco di Veio, we could not but embrace a green philosophy. Everything has been planned in the spirit of sustainability. We work constantly to reduce paper consumption and to improve the efficiency of resources such as energy.

Paideia International Hospital opened in September 2022. Could you tell us a little about the beginnings of the project?

It started about ten years ago — the project began with the idea that the former Paideia clinic was too old and the space was too small for the growing demand. We needed to do something bigger and more ambitious. But it still took many years after that. In those past ten years, we did our best to study and seek to obtain the best technology possible.

What are the strengths of Mater Dei and Paideia in respect to other private hospitals and clinics? What makes them different?

There is, of course, the very strong history of generations of families that have been treated at our hospitals. We have a very American model — we are always a step ahead of the others. Let’s say that, up until now, we have not considered other clinics as our competitors. We are at the level of hospitals — those are our numbers and that is our scope. More than anything, we are a benchmark for them.

At the moment, what differentiates us is our geographic location, our superb technology and our more than 400 employees that always aim to provide the best service. We work a 24/7 schedule and we have created an organisation that is currently very difficult to replicate in Rome.

In your opinion, are private hospitals changing in some way the Italian health system? If yes, how?

I would say yes. Above all, from central Italy to the north, we see big and new hospitals that work well and are better able to manage patients while, from the centre southwards, [the hospitals] there remain overworked. There we enter into an environment in which clinics, private surgery centres and the entire health system have an abundance of requests. It would be useful for citizens if the synergy between private and public health were to grow.

Wanted in Rome • July-August 2023 | 5
Healthcare
Paideia International Hospital in Rome.

How important is the international community for Mater Dei and Paideia? Is the number of foreign residents using your services increasing?

It’s fundamental. It’s also a way for us to understand how well we are doing in our organisation and our flexibility. For us, our key patient has always been international. All of our staff speaks English and, in some cases, other languages. We have always had a focus on the foreign patient. We have always historically supported hotels and embassies, especially thanks to our location. We want to grow the community further — and the demand is growing. We are also noticing the beginning of medical-related tourism. There are people now who come specifically to Rome to seek our services.

Are you planning to expand your private healthcare services in other parts of Rome or Italy?

Absolutely — we are evaluating many options, whether at local or national level, from bigger plans to smaller ones. We will surely begin with the smaller options, but we are waiting for the opportunity to do something bigger.

How do you see the future of healthcare in Italy?

I see it, truthfully, as very complicated and a system that, to function, requires the stars to be aligned. It will take time and so many factors to make it work. I think it will always be complicated so long as there is not a strong synergy between public and private healthcare. In my opinion, the model that will work is one that operates between public and private — this way, we can meet the ever-increasing

requests and the problems that hospitals have with rising costs.

In the north, we have truly done the right thing—there are large private groups that have hospitals that work really well. But I see that, at this point, the system is regional, more than anything. Lazio should take a bit of inspiration from what is happening in Lombardia and use what is available to them and make it available to its residents. Here, I have seen at least the start of a conversation between the private and public systems.

Who are your main clients?

It is the insurance market — those who have insurance policies or those who decide to get private health insurance or if their company offers a health insurance plan for all of its employees. Then we have a sector of clients that pay cash. Right now, that number is increasing, but it is still marginal relative to all the insured patients that we have.

What are the biggest challenges facing private healthcare in Italy?

Undoubtedly, it is the costs that have increased for almost everything, from energy to staff. And then, the other thing that is fundamental is our relationship with health insurers — unfortunately, we are in a moment in which health insurers have clamped down on private healthcare. If our relationship with health insurance deteriorates and if they don’t pay in time, that creates problems for all of the private health businesses. We are united in this — that we should have what is right and what is in accordance with our contract. But that is not always respected. Without that, we will not be able to work at all.

6 | July-August 2023 • Wanted in Rome
Paideia and Mater Dei offer a comprehensive range of specialist medical services in Rome.

WHAT’S ON IN ROME THIS SUMMER?

A QUICK GUIDE TO THE BEST EVENTS IN ROME IN JULY AND AUGUST

Andy Devane

Summer is in full swing in Rome with the capital hosting a swathe of cultural events and festivals, many of them taking place in the open air.

Central to this bonanza of cultural activity is the city’s Estate Romana programme, a broad spectrum of events including film festivals, opera, exhibitions, literature and live music.

Opera

Rome’s summer opera festival returns to its

historic base among the ruins at the Baths of Caracalla, with opera classics including La Traviata and Rigoletto as well as performances by dancer Roberto Bolle and a series of concerts by rock and pop singers.

Literature

An international literature festival takes place over five evenings in July in the spectacular setting of the Palatine Hill with a line-up of award-winning writers, including Margaret Atwood, reading from texts written specially for the occasion.

Lifestyle
The Cinema in Piazza festival in Piazza Cosimato.

Cinema

Open-air film festivals include Cinema in Piazza, held in Piazza S. Cosimato and two other locations in the suburbs, showing films in their original language versions.

There are also film festivals in Piazza Vittorio and at the Parco degli Acquedotti as well as a return of the Floating Theatre at the lake in Villa Ada and outdoor screenings at the Casa del Cinema in Villa Borghese.

Rock and pop

Rome serves up an eclectic selection of rock and pop concerts during July thanks to the city’s two main live music festivals, Roma Summer Fest – with big name acts including Bob Dylan and Sting at the Auditorium Parco della Musica – and Rock in Roma –whose line-up at the Ippodromo delle Capannelle includes Arctic Monkeys.

The Circus Maximus hosts veteran rockers Guns N’ Roses in a sold-out show on 8 July, followed by Italy’s Sanremo-winner Marco Mengoni on 15 July and Imagine Dragons on 5 August.

Also in July the Stadio Olimpico welcomes Depeche Mode, Muse and Måneskin, while there is also a series of summer concerts at

Jazz

Jazz fans can enjoy outdoor performances by Italian and international jazz musicians at the Casa del Jazz, as well as nightly jazz and swing concerts under the stars at Villa Celimontana.

Classical

Classical music concerts take place against the lush backdrop of Rome’s Botanic Gardens, thanks to the Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, and the Theatre of Marcellus as part of the annual Concerti del Tempietto programme.

Audiovisual

Videocittà, the festival which explores the

place every July.

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the Teatro Romano in Ostia Antica. The Circus Maximus hosts several concerts this summer. Festa de' Noantri takes

most advanced forms of audiovisual and digital art, will be held at the Gazometro from 13 to 16 July. The festival comprises four days of video art, talks, live music, dj sets, videomapping and performances by leading audiovisual artists.

Museums

Rome’s national and city-run museums open their doors free of charge on the first Sunday each month, with the next two appointments falling on 2 July and 6 August.

Some of the capital’s big summer exhibitions include the display at the Quirinale of ancient bronze statues discovered last year at the San Casciano thermal baths, and freshly-unearthed Etruscan, Roman and Greek treasures at the Baths of Diocletian.

Largo Argentina

A novelty on the city’s cultural menu this year is the opening of the sunken archaeological area at Largo di Torre Argentina, scene of Julius Caesar’s assassination, which until now could only be viewed from street level above.

Formula E

The fifth edition of the Rome E-Prix takes place on 15-16 July, with the world’s fastest electric cars battling it out over two days on the streets of EUR.

Religion

Last but not least, the city lays on some impressive religious pageantry over the summer. The centuries-old Festa de’ Noantri procession sees a bejewelled statue of the Madonna paraded through Trastevere on 22 July, returning by boat along the river Tiber nine days later.

However the most unusual religious event involves a snowfall during the height of summer outside the Basilica di S. Maria Maggiore. Every year on the night of 5 August the city relives a fourth-century miracle with the surreal spectacle of snow-like foam falling from the sky, accompanied with live music by the Carabinieri band.

For more details of events see our What’s On in Rome guide while for information about the Estate Romana programme see city website.

10 | July-August 2023 • Wanted in Rome
Caracalla Festival. Photo Teatro dell'Opera di Roma.

CARACALLA FESTIVAL 2023

JULY 1, 2, 4 - 9.00pm

SERGEJ PROKOF’EV

CENERENTOLA

CONDUCTOR ALESSANDRO CADARIO COREOGRAPHER AND DIRECTOR RUDOLF NUREYEV

JULY 11, 12, 13 - 9.00pm

ROBERTO BOLLE

AND FRIENDS

JULY 23 - 9.00pm

GRAN GALA DI DANZA

CONDUCTOR ALVISE CASELLATI

JULY 9 - 9.00pm

LUDWIG VAN BEETHOVEN

SINFONIA N.9

CONDUCTOR MYUNG-WHUN CHUNG CHORUS MASTER CIRO VISCO

JULY 21, 25, 28

AUGUST 2, 4, 9 - 9.00pm

GIUSEPPE VERDI

LA TRAVIATA

CONDUCTOR PAOLO ARRIVABENI DIRECTOR LORENZO MARIANI

AUGUST 3, 6, 8, 10 - 9.00pm

GIUSEPPE VERDI

RIGOLETTO

CONDUCTOR RICCARDO FRIZZA DIRECTOR DAMIANO MICHIELETTO

TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA ORCHESTRA, CHORUS AND CORPS DE BALLET

Wanted in Rome • July-August 2023 | 11
BALLET CONCERT OPERA Illustrazione di Marinella Senatore, Courtesy of the artist and Mazzoleni, LondonTorino
VERDI SOCI FONDATORI SOCI PRIVATI MECENATI MAIN SPONSOR PARTNER OFFICIAL TRAIN operaroma.it PRIVATE SHAREHOLDERS FOUNDERS PATRONS
DEDICATED TO

TOP 10

OUTDOOR POOLS IN ROME

Come mid-summer in Rome, most of us are in need of the cool of an outdoor pool to relax by. But Rome isn’t awash with them and most are part of privately-owned swimming and sports clubs or upmarket hotels. We’ve picked ten of Rome’s best, from New York-style rooftop pools with to-die-for views and a nice line in cocktails to family-friendly cheap and cheerful clubs. The € symbols represent ranking by price.

1. ALDROVANDI PALACE

Small and very select city-centre oasis, La Ranocchia (meaning “little frog”) is shaded by overhanging palms and huge cream parasols. Arrive early as space is limited around this pool. Mon-Sun 10.00-19.30. Mon-Fri €50, Sat-Sun €60. 10- entry subscription €300. Via Ulisse Aldrovandi 15 (Parioli), tel. 063223993, www.aldrovan di.com. €€€€

2. BELLE ARTI

Free at weekends and well worth a mention for its fantastic central location tucked behind a church on Via Flaminia. A quiet atmosphere makes it good for those with very young children. Mon-Fri 07.00-21.00. €15. Sat-Sun 08.00-20.00. €25. Children aged 7-13 accompanied by adult pay €10 week day / €15 weekend. Via Flaminia 158 (Flaminio), tel. 063226529, www.circolotennisbellearti.it. €€

3. CAVALIERI HILTON

This Olympic-sized outdoor pool-with-a-view is the crème de la crème of Rome’s pools if you like serious swimming. It’s large, luxurious and well worth the trip to Monte Mario. With a separate children’s pool. 09.00-19.00 daily. Weekdays €80 (adults) & €40 (children 6-11 years). Sat-Sun and bank holidays €150 (adults) & €75 (children 6-11 years). Via Alberto Cadlolo 101 (Monte Mario), tel. 0635091, www.cavalieri-hilton.it. €€€€€

4. CIRCOLO VALENTINI

Slightly shabby but friendly, family-run pool, used by locals. The adjoining restaurant will make up a lunchtime salad for around €4. 09.00-19.00. Weekdays €13, half-day €9, weekends €20, half-day €13. Kids 3-6 years €6. Via della Marcigliana 597, corner Via Bufalotta (Talenti/Prati Fiscali), tel. 0687120207, www.circolovalentini.it. €

A large tennis club with an outdoor pool o ering lessons, free swimming and a children’s summer school. Weekdays 10.00-18.30. Three time slots 10.00-14.00, 12.00-16.30, 14.00-18.30. Adults €9 (per time slot), kids €6. Full day adults €12, kids €8. Sat-Sun 09.00-19.30. Time slots 09.00-14.00, 14.30-19.30 (Sat only 12.00-16.30). €11 adults, €9 kids. Full day adults €16, kids €12. Via di Pietralata 135 (Tiburtino), tel. 064181401, www.clublanciani.eu. €€

6. GRAND HOTEL GIANICOLO

Part of a luxury hotel, this pool is located in elegant surroundings with palm trees and views of Trastevere from the Gianicolo hill. Lunch and dinner served at pool-side restaurant. 09.00-19.00,

weekdays €35, weekend rate €50. Via delle Mura Gianicolensi 107 (Gianicolo), tel. 0658333405, www.grandhotelgianicolo.it. €€

7. HYDROMANIA

Think miles of water slides, wave machines, pools, South-Pacic-style thatched bars, shops and a mini-club. Weekdays 09.30-18.30, weekends 09.30-19.00. Daily adult rate €25, kids up to 12 years €19. Half day rate €15. Casal Lumbroso 33 (Aurelio), tel. 0666183183, www.hydromania.it. €€

8. PISCINA DELLE ROSE

Large pool perfect for families, swimming and canoeing lessons. Open daily 9.00-19.00. Mon-Fri €10, €8 half-day, weekends €20, €16 half-day. Kids 3-12 years €8 per day. Viale America 20 (EUR), tel. 065926717, www.piscinadellerose.it. €€

9. HOTEL ANANTARA PALAZZO NAIDI

All-inclusive treatment at an enviable location in the heart of Rome. A tranquil rooftop pool overlooks Piazza della Repubblica. Access to the gorgeous pool requires booking a spa package that comes with a 50-minute massage. Daily 10.00-18.00. Prices from €150. Piazza della Repubblica 47, tel. 06489381. €€€€€

10. S.S.D. VITA

Professional, outdoor swimming pool arranges lessons for children and adults and has tennis courts and a gym. Open daily 10.00-18.30. Mon-Fri €10, €8 half-day, weekends €11, €9 half-day. Kids 4-8 years €8 per day. Children aged 10 upwards pay adult rate. Kids aged 5-10 €8, kids under 5 free. Via del Fontanile Arenato 66 (Aurelio), tel. 066634202, www.vitaclub.it. €

12 | July-August 2023 • Wanted in Rome Pools
5. CLUB LANCIANI Hotel Anantara Palazzo Naidi

UK NATIONAL SETTLED IN ITALY BEFORE 1

JANUARY 2021?

Make sure your residency in Italy is easily recognised. Request your new Carta di Soggiorno Elettronica from your local Questura as soon as possible. And don’t get confused…it isn’t the same thing as your electronic ID card.

Find out more on gov.uk/livinginitaly

ARTandSEEK

English-language cultural workshops and visits to museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforkids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandseekforkids.com.

Bioparco

Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and o ers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it.

Bowling Silvestri

is sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.

ere are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com.

Casa del Parco

Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com.

Casina di Ra aello

Play centre in Villa Borghese o ering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Ra aello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadira aello.it.

14 | July-August 2023 • Wanted in Rome

Cinecittà World

is 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special e ects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it.

Climbing

Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, urs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473.

Explora

e 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it.

Go-karting

Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it.

Gymboree

is children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, o ering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it.

Hortis Urbis

Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it.

Il Nido

Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.

Luneur

Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it.

Rainbow Magicland

e 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it.

Time Elevator

A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. e time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it.

Zoomarine is amusement and aquatic park outside Rome o ers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.

Wanted in Rome • July-August 2023 | 15
17
Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth. Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

ROME'S MAJOR MUSEUMS

IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS DETAILS. IN SOME CASES RESERVATIONS ARE REQUIRED.

VATICAN MUSEUMS

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00.

Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS

Baths of Diocletian

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30.

Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna

Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

18 | July-August 2023 • Wanted in Rome

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

CITY MUSEUMS

Centrale Montemartini

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Capitoline Museums

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

MATTATOIO

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS

Casa di Goethe

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Chiostro Del Bramante

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

Galleria Colonna

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, rst Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.

Museo storico della Liberazione

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Palazzo Merulana

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

Wanted in Rome • July-August 2023 | 19

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www. -maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Multidisciplinary venue devoted to visual art, design, architecture and fashion design at Palazzo Brancaccio. Via Merulana 248, tel. 0631709949, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Del ni, Via dei Del ni 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespeci c exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pasti cio Cerere

This non-pro t foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pasti ciocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created speci cally for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at a ordable prices by artists working in various elds. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo

Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works speci cally for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-pro le international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

20 | July-August 2023 • Wanted in Rome

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Galleria Russo

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.

Galleria Varsi

A dynamic gallery promoting street culture and contemporary art movements. Via di A ogalasino 34, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Gavin Brown's Enterprise

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of di erent generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

La Nuova Pesa

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino d’Arte Moderna

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Monitor

This contemporary art gallery o ers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Nero Gallery

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.

Nomas Foundation

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Plus Arte Puls

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

Sala 1

This internationally known non-pro t contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

The Gallery Apart

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

TraleVolte

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

Von Buren Contemporary

Rome-based gallery specialising in a ordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via Giulia 13, tel. 3351633518, www.vonburencontemporary.com.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria o ers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

Wanted in Rome • July-August 2023 | 21
22 | July-August 2023 • Wanted in Rome TRANSFORMING THE WORLD THROUGH EDUCATION Well-being Leader in Technology World Class International Curriculum Global Citizenship Forest School Via di Villa Lauchli 180, 00191 Rome Tel: +39 06 362 91012 admissions@marymountrome.com www.marymountrome.com - Since 1946 -

where to go in Rome WHAT’S ON

Gli Dei Ritornano exhibition at Palazzo Quirinale. See page 24.

EXHIBITIONS

GLI DEI RITORNANO

23 JUNE-29 OCT

Italy displays the trove of ancient bronze statues unearthed last year at the San Casciano thermal bath site in Tuscany in an exhibition at the Quirinal Palace in Rome. Titled Gli Dei Ritornano (The Gods Return), the exhibition at Palazzo Quirinale open from 23 June to 25 July and again from 2 September to 29 October. The votive statues, dating to between the second century BC and the first century AD, emerged intact from the mud at the bottom of a Roman pool in the hilltop town last November. The sensational discovery of the statues – representating divinities including Apollo and Hygieia, as well as emperors, matrons and ephebes – shed new light on the relationship between the Etruscans and the Romans. Archaeologist Jacopo Tabolli, who led the excavation project, hailed it as a discovery that would “rewrite history” about the transition from the Etruscan civilisation to the Roman Empire, adding that there was “no clear division between the two cultures”. The public can visit the exhibition at Palazzo Quirinale on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays,

Saturdays and Sundays, with an entry fee of €1.50. Reservation is required for the hour-long visit, with full visiting details on the Quirinale website, www.palazzo. quirinale.it.

GILBERT HALABY: UNE COMÉDIE ROMAINE

1 JUNE-15 JULY

Maja Arte Contemporanea hosts Une Comédie Romaine, the first Roman solo show by the Lebanese artist Gilbert Halaby. The exhibition features around 30 paintings created over the past two years in the painter’s adopted city of Rome. Halaby paints scenes of life in the historic centre of the Italian capital, featuring images of priests, nuns and passersby, immortalised in coloured silhouettes. As Nora Iosia writes in the exhibition catalogue, Halaby’s images play on the “carpe diem” quality of Rome and the city’s “blissful indifference to the passing of time or the changing seasons, a lasting trait, which makes its spaces unique in the world.” See cover this edition. Maja Arte Contemporanea, Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea. com.

LETIZIA BATTAGLIA SENZA FINE

27 MAY-5 NOV

The Baths of Caracalla presents a tribute to the Sicilian photographer Letizia Battaglia – the legendary Italian photographer best known for her shocking images of Mafia murders and arrests in Sicily – who died last year aged 87. Curated by Paolo Falcone, the exhibition features a selection of 92 large format photographs charting 50 years of Battaglia’s photographic work (1971-2020) with iconic images as well as those that are less known or unpublished. Baths of Caracalla, Viale delle Terme di Caracalla 52. For visiting details see www.soprintendenzaspecialeroma.it.

SEMBRA VIVO!

26 MAY-8 OCT

Fresh from the success of the Van Gogh blockbuster, Palazzo Bonaparte stages an exhibition of hyper-realist sculptures by celebrated contemporary artists. Organisers say the 43 installations on display are so lifelike that they will leave visitors questioning whether they are looking at living beings or inanimate objects. The exhibition features works by 29 international artists

24 | July-August 2023 • Wanted in Rome
Letizia Battaglia at Baths of Caracalla. Boris Giuliano, capo della Squadra Mobile, sul luogo di un omicidio a Piazza del Carmine. Palermo, 1978. Kazu Hiro, Andy Warhol, 2013 at Palazzo Bonaparte.

including Maurizio Cattelan, Ron Mueck, George Segal, Carole Feuerman and Duane Hanson. Located in Piazza Venezia, the 17th-century Palazzo Bonaparte was once the home of Maria Letizia Ramolino, Napoleon’s mother, who watched the world go by from the building’s green balcony from 1818 until her death in 1836. www.mostrepalazzobonaparte.it.

L’ISTANTE E L’ETERNITA’: TRA NOI E GLI ANTICHI

4 MAY-30 JULY

An ancient ceremonial carriage discovered at Civita Giuliana near Pompeii is one of the star attractions in a major new exhibition at the National Museum of Rome - Baths of Diocletian. The newly-restored chariot, believed to have been used in ceremonies such as weddings, is among 300 Roman, Greek and Etruscan artefacts included in the exhibition. Many of the works are on display for the first time, including the Civita Giuliana chariot and the freshly-unearthed statue of Hercules from the Appia Antica Archaeological Park in Rome. Other treasures on show include the Tabula Chigi from the Roman National Museum and numerous masterpieces usually kept in storage in Italy and Greece, including the Kore of Thera statue. The casts of two anonymous men who perished after the eruption of Mount Vesuvius almost 2,000 years ago are also included in the exhibition

which is supported by the culture ministries of Italy and Greece. Baths of Diocletian, Via Enrico de Nicola 78, www.museonazionaleromano. beniculturali.it.

MICHELANGELO PISTOLETTO: INFINITY

18 MARCH-15 OCT

Chiostro del Bramanate hosts an exhibition dedicated to Michelangelo Pistoletto, one of the main representatives of the Italian Arte Povera movement. The show serves as a retrospective spanning the 60-year career of the Italian painter and action artist who turns 90 this year. Infinity follows the successful run of collective shows Love, Enjoy, Dream and Crazy,

and will once again be curated by Danilo Eccher who describes it as “a group exhibition by a single artist”. As suggested by its title, the exhibition proposes “an infinite number of ways of making art, an infinite number of ways of seeing, of changing perspective, of reading reality”, according to Chiostro del Bramante. Infinity comprises around 50 works and four large site-specific installations, dating from 1966 to 2023, including his celebrated Venere degli Stracci (Venus of the rags) and his mirror paintings. Chiostro del Bramante, Arco della Pace 5, www. chiostrodelbramante.it.

L’IMMAGINE SOVRANA: URBANO VIII E I BARBERINI

18 MARCH-30 JULY

On the 400th anniversary of the election to the papal throne of Urban VIII, Palazzo Barberini dedicates a major exhibition to the longest and most representative pontificate of the 17th century (1623-1644). The exhibition celebrates the cultural and political profile of the pope - born Maffeo Barberini in 1568 - who had a profound impact on philosophical thought, scientific knowledge and the arts of the 17th century. The exhibition highlights how the pontiff, together with his nephews Cardinals Francesco and Antonio and Prince Taddeo Barberini, “tenaciously

Wanted in Rome • July-August 2023 | 25
Gli Dei Ritornano at Palazzo Quirinale. L'istante e l'eternità at the Baths of Diocletian. Il saggio al Pantheon by Gilbert Halaby at Maja Arte Contemporanea.

pursued an ambitious politicalcultural project, which pervaded all areas of knowledge and artistic and cultural production”, according to the show’s organisers. A great patron of the arts, Urban VIII left an indelible stamp on Rome, promoting colossal undertakings such as the canopy of St Peter’s, designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, or the fresco by Pietro da Cortona in Palazzo Barberini. The exhibition reunites 80 works from the museum’s collection with 40 pieces from the original Barberini collection dispersed in

CLASSICA AL TRAMONTO

13 JUNE-25 JULY

The Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti (IUC) stages a series of classical music concerts at sunset in Rome’s Botanic Gardens this summer. Under the title Classica al Tramonto, the chamber music festival is organised in the beautiful setting of the Orto Botanico,

CLASSICAL DANCE

STRICTLY GERSHWIN

1-4 JULY

The summer programme of the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma at the Baths of Caracalla opens with Strictly Gershwin, described as “a joyful and overwhelming musical”, featuring étoiles, principal dancers, soloists and the Ballet of the Rome Opera, directed by Eleonora Abbagnato. The show, a tribute to George Gershwin and his music by choreographer and director Derek Deane, will be conducted by Michael England with Alessandro Taverna on piano. For details see Teatro dell’Opera website, www. operaroma.it.

major museums around the world. The show includes important works by Bernini, Caravaggio, Poussin, Sacchi and some of the spectacular tapestries produced by the Barberini Arazzeria. Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, www.barberinicorsini.org

LA ROMA DELLA REPUBBLICA

13 JAN-24 SEPT

The Capitoline Museums presents an exhibition of Roman artefacts from the fifth century BC to the

middle of the first century BC. Through a series of archaeological themes and contexts, the exhibition in Palazzo Caffarelli brings to life the characters and transformations of Roman society over the course of five centuries, from the birth of the republic to the creation of the empire. The roughly 1,800 artefacts on display - made from terracotta, ceramics, bronze and stone - mostly come from municipal collections and many of them are usually hidden away in storage. Piazzale Caffarelli, www.museocapitolini.org.

hidden away in the Trastevere district. Organisers say the concert series consists in presenting some of the best Italian soloists and groups, young but already established. Tickets for each concert cost €10 (+ €4 entry fee to the Orto Botanico). On evenings in which two concerts are scheduled – one at 20.30 and one at 21.30 – it is possible to purchase both

ROBERTO BOLLE AND FRIENDS

11-13

JULY

The Teatro dell’Opera di Roma summer festival at the Baths of Caracalla would not be complete without Roberto Bolle and Friends.

(mini-season ticket) at the reduced price of €16 (+ €4 admission fee). For details of programme see IUC website, www.concertiiuc.it.

Taking place over three nights, with the Gran Gala starring the guest stars Maia Makhateli and Jacopo Tissi accompanied by many others. For details see Teatro dell’Opera website, www.operaroma.it.

26 | July-August 2023 • Wanted in Rome
Roberto Bolle returns to the Baths of Caracalla this summer. The Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti presents Classica al Tramonto at the Orto Botanico.

VIDEOCITTA’

13-16 JULY

Videocittà, the festival devoted to the most advanced forms of audiovisual and digital art, returns to Rome from 13 to 16 July. The sixth edition of the festival, which attracted more than 15,000 spectators last year, will take place at the Gazometro in the city’s Ostiense district. Under the theme of Transition, the festival comprises four days of video art, talks, live music, dj sets, videomapping and performances by leading audiovisual artists. For programme see Videocitta website, www.videocitta.com.

LETTERATURE

3-13 JULY

Rome’s international literature festival returns for its 22nd edition this summer, taking place in the spectacular setting of the Palatine Hill over five evenings. The prestigious literary event features a host of awardwinning Italian and international authors who will read from their work, supported by actors, acrobats, live music and light effects. The open-air festival will see authors read new texts written especially for the festival, inspired by the 2023 theme – La memoria del mondo (The memory of the world) – in homage to Italo Calvino on the centenary of his birth. Letterature is curated by Simona Cives, head of Rome’s Casa delle Letterature, who said: “The aim of the festival has always been to introduce the general public to some of the most beautiful voices on the international scene through a live reading of texts.” The festival opens on 3 July with actor Luigi Lo Cascio reading from a collection of short stories by Italo Calvino, along with readings by Fernando Aramburu, Julie Otsuka and Jean Baptiste Del Amo. On 5 July it will be the turn of Margaret Atwood, Paolo Giordano and Valeria Luiselli, while on 9 July the festival will welcome the future winner of the 2023 Strega Prize, alongside Jeanette Winterson, Burhan Sönmez and Katja Petrowskaja. Taking to the stage on 11 July will be Bernardo Zannoni, Sam Riviere and William T. Vollmann, with the festival closing on 13 July with David Diop, Nicola Lagioia and Maaza Mengiste. Situated on the eastern side of the Domus Flavia-Augustana, but at a height of about 10 metres below it, the Palatine Stadium was built by Emperor Domitian in the late first century AD. Letterature events are free of charge but must be booked in advance, subject to availability. Events begin at 21.00, with access to the Palatine Stadium from 20.30. All events will be streamed live on the Facebook pages of Biblioteche di Roma and LETTERATURE Festival Internazionale di Roma as well as the YouTube channel of Biblioteche di Roma. For full programme see website, www.culture. roma.it/festivaldelleletterature/.

ROCK IN ROMA

20 JUNE - 5 AUG

Rock in Roma returns this summer with a multi-genre programme featuring a mix of national and international artists, at the Ippodromo delle Capannelle. The 2023 line-up includes Paky (1 July), Lazza (3 July), Capo Plaza (5 July), Mezzosangue (6 July), Coez (9 July), Maluma (12 July), Salmo (13 July), Arctic Monkeys (16 July), Manuel Agnelli (17 July), Articolo 31 (19 July), Carcass + CandleMass (21 July), Rosa Chemical (22 July), Sfera Ebbasta + Shiva (26 July), Ozuna (28 July), Imagine Dragons (5 Aug). For full details including tickets see Rock in Roma website. Ippodromo delle Capannelle, Via Appia Nuova 1245, www.rockinroma. com.

ROMA SUMMER FEST

6 JUNE - 26 SEPT

Rome’s Auditorium Parco della Musica hosts Roma Summer Fest with a programme of Italian and international acts from 10 June until 26 September. Now in its 21st year, the festival hosts big-name Italian artists alongside world-famous bands. The line-up continues on 1 July with Marco Masini followed by Renga Nek (2 July), Aurora (3 July), James Bay (5 July), Gigi D’Alessio (8 July), Bob Dylan (9 July), Sigur Rós (9 July), Baustelle (10 July), OneRepublic (11 July), Sting (14 July), Nobraino (15 July), Gué (16 July), Madame (17 July), Mr. Rain (18 July), Shine – Pink Floyd Moon (21 July), Levante (22 July), dEUS (23

28 | July-August 2023 • Wanted in Rome
festival
Videocittà will takes place at the Gazometro in the Ostiense district. The Palatine Hill hosts the Letterature festival in July.

July), Jacob Collier (24 July), Daniele Silvestri (25 July), Tash Sultana (26 July), Diodato (27 July), Carl Brave (28 July). Bookending the main holiday season in August are Emiliana Torrini & The Colorist Orchestra (1 Aug), Benjamine Clementine (2 Aug), Carmen Consoli & Elvis Costello (28 Aug), Paul Weller (22 Sept), Tananai (25 Sept) and Fabri Fibra (26 Sept). For programme and ticket details see Auditorium website, www.auditorium.com.

SUMMERTIME JAZZ FESTIVAL

7 JUNE-6 AUG

Rome’s Casa del Jazz hosts more than 60 concerts and shows on its outdoor stage in the park of Villa Osio, on Viale di Porta Ardeatina. The festival boasts a packed programme of performances by Italian and international acts performing jazz, blues, soul, swing, funky, acid jazz and Mediterranean music. Summertime includes a homage to Armando Trovajoli, on the 10th anniversary of his death, as well as performances by Stefano Di Battista and Nicky Nicolai, Marcus Miller, James Senese, Peter Erskine Quartet and many more. For details see the Casa del Jazz website, www. casadeljazz.com.

CARACALLA FESTIVAL

30 MAY-10 AUG

Teatro dell’Opera di Roma is staging a bumper programme for its summer festival among the ancient Roman ruins at the Baths of Caracalla. In addition

OPERA

to opera, the festival includes a range of genres, from symphonic music, dance and theatre to cinema, jazz and pop concerts. The Caracalla Festival programme spans more than 50 evenings, with the new Teatro del Portico space reserved for cinema, jazz and theatre. The festival celebrates Verdi with two masterpieces: La traviata (21 July-9 Aug) and Rigoletto (3-10 Aug). See opera section page X The dance proposal includes Strictly Gershwin (1-4 July) and Roberto Bolle and Friends, over three nights (11-13 July). See dance section page X. The Symphony n. 9 by Beethoven will be conducted on 9 July by Myung-Whun Chung, with the Teatro dell’Opera orchestra and chorus, directed by Ciro Visco, and the solo voices of Olga Bezsmertna, Sara Mingardo, Giovanni Sala and Roberto Tagliavini. The summer festival also includes a series of pop concerts, concluding on 24 July with Massimo Ranieri. There will be a theatrical performance: The glasses of Šostakovič by Valerio Cappelli, who is also the director, on 5-6 July, dedicated to the great Russian composer, played by Moni Ovadia, with projections and live music. The festival features a programme of littleknown films inspired by the figure and works of the great composer Verdi, from 26 June to 3 July. For jazz fans, the Stefano Di Battista Quartet performs on 31 July, with “Morricone stories jazz”; three aperitifconcerts designed to be followed also by spectators of the opera on stage the same evening, on 2, 4 and 6 August; and an evening with the Cutello Brothers entitled “New generation”, on 7 August. For details see Teatro dell’Opera website, www.operaroma.it.

LA TRAVIATA

21 JULY-9 AUG

Teatro dell’Opera di Roma celebrates Verdi with Lorenzo Mariani’s 2018 staging of La Traviata which sets the Parisian story in the 1960s Dolce

Vita era, paying homage to Federico Fellini’s Rome. Lorenzo Mariani directs and Paolo Arrivabeni conducts the orchestra and chorus of Teatro dell’Opera di Roma. Part of the summer Caracalla Festival at the Baths of Caracalla, see page XX. For tickets and more information see Teatro dell’Opera di Roma website, www.operaroma.it.

RIGOLETTO

3-10 AUG

Teatro dell’Opera di Roma presents Damiano Michieletto’s staging of Rigoletto which sets the Verdi masterpiece in an imaginary criminal world. Damiano Michieletto directs and Riccardo Frizza conducts the orchestra and chorus of Teatro dell’Opera di Roma. Part of the open-air Caracalla Festival at the Baths of Caracalla, see page XX. For tickets and more information see Teatro dell’Opera di Roma website, www.operaroma.it.

30 | July-August 2023 • Wanted in Rome
The Baths of Caracalla provide the backdrop for Rome's summer opera festival.

CELEBRATING 50 YEARS OF AMERICAN EDUCATION IN ITALY

ROME OPENS LARGO ARGENTINA SITE TO VISITORS

Rome opened the archaeological site in Largo di Torre Argentina to the public on 20 June following a major development project sponsored by luxury jeweller Bulgari. The new itinerary offers information in English and Italian tracing the history of the ancient site down through the centuries, from the Republican age to the imperial and mediaeval times, up to its rediscovery in the 1920s during the demolitions in the Fascist period. The so-called sacred area at Largo Argentina is best known as the scene of Julius Caesar's assassination, as well as being home to a popular cat sanctuary, however until now the public had to view the sunken site from street level.

Now, thanks to the works funded by Bulgari and overseen by Rome's superintendency of cultural heritage, visitors can walk around the site on elevated walkways offering close-up views of the four Roman Republican temples, including the circular monument to the goddess of Fortune, and the remains of Pompey's Theatre. In addition, there are two new exhibition areas in the portico of the mediaeval Torre del Papito and in the rooms below the street level on Via di S. Nicola de' Cesarini. The spaces display finds from excavations including fragments of epigraphs, sarcophagi, architectural decorations and two heads of colossal statues representing divinities once venerated at the site.

Underlining the "deep bond we have with Rome", Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin said: "We are proud to have contributed to finally making this archaeological and architectural jewel accessible to citizens and tourists, a precious testimony to the fascinating overlapping of eras and styles that makes the Eternal City unique in the world."

Entry is from Via di S. Nicola De’ Cesarini, with tickets

available at the Torre del Papito. The site is open Tuesday to Sunday from 09.30 until 19.00 (16.00 in the off-season), with last entry one hour before closing time. Visits last up to 45 minutes and tickets cost €5 (reduced to €4 for Rome residents), with various other reductions and exempt categories. For information and to make group bookings, tel. 060608.

The Bulgari brand, which was founded in Rome in 1884, has funded several important restorations in the Italian capital in recent years, including the Spanish Steps. The opening of the area sacra at Largo Argentina comes two weeks after Bulgari inaugurated a five-star hotel beside the Mausoleum of Augustus in Rome's historic centre.

PANTHEON INTRODUCES ENTRY FEE

Visitors to the Pantheon will be charged an entry fee from 3 July, with tourists being charged €5 and Rome residents retaining free access. Italy's culture minister Gennaro Sangiuliano said the proceeds from ticket sales would be used to "provide food for the poor and undertake renovation and regeneration works on the monument". Earlier this year Sangiuliano announced the introduction of the Pantheon entry fee, following talks between the culture ministry and church authorities in Rome. Under the agreement, proceeds from the ticket sales will be divided between the culture ministry, which will receive 70 per cent, with the remaining 30 per cent going to the diocese of Rome. Access to the monument will remain free to residents of Rome, those attending religious services and the under18s, while visitors under 25 will pay an entry fee of €3. Until now the Pantheon has been free to visit, as a place of worship, in line with the custom of the Rome vicariate which does not charge entry fees for churches. The Rome landmark attracted a record 9.3 million visitors in 2019.

32 | July-August 2023 • Wanted in Rome CULTURE NEWS
The Pantheon introduces a tourist entry fee. Largo Argentina opens to the public for the first time.

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city There are also concerts in many of the churches and sometimes in the museums.

Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com

Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct

Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct

Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct

Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it

Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct

Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com

Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it

MUSIC THE A TRE CINEMA VENUES

TRE MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

classical cinema

RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it

Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com

Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com

RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it

Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are at Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others are at the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Roma Tre, Via Ostienze 234, www.r30.org

Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com

cinema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for weekly updates.

Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for weekly updates.

Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361

Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767

There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome.

Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are at Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others are at the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Roma Tre, Via Ostienze 234, www.r30.org

All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org

There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome.

All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 068553485

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 068553485

Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com

Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825

Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com

Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230

Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825

Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361

Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230

St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it

Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7

S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona

St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it

S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com

Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361

Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068

Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116

Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068

Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361

Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116

Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111

Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361

Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111

Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

34 | July-August 2023 • Wanted in Rome 50 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome
d

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, ww

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it

dance opera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it

dance opera

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

rock pop

rock pop

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com

Live Alcazar, Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com

Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org

Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it

Atlantico, Viale dell’Oceano Atlantico 271d, tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com

Atlantico, Viale dell’Oceano Atlantico 271d, tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www auditorium.com

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it

Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it

Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it

Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it

Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it

Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it

Live Alcazar, Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com

PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it

Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it

PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it

Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com

Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com

Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com

Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com

Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, www.teatrosangenesio.it

Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 www.teatrosangenesio.it

Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it

Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel. 065898031, www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it

Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it

Wanted in Rome • July-August 2023 | 37 50 | Jan 2019 • Wanted in Rome 51 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome
theatre
theatre

POLLO ALLA ROMANA

A homecooked classic, this Roman-style chicken is a wonderful summer recipe which makes the most of the season’s bright, plump, bell peppers. Tender pieces of chicken are slowly cooked with tomato, peppers and onion until the meat is falling o the bone and the sauce becomes succulent, sweet and sticky. A true crowd-pleaser, in Rome it is commonly served for lunch on the Ferragosto holiday on 15 August.

The recipe is in itself very simple and just requires a little time to prepare the peppers and let the ingredients work their magic. Although the dish can be served piping hot, it is just as satisfying when left to rest until room-temperature and should be served with plenty of bread to mop up the mouth-watering juices. Just make sure you have enough leftovers to pack into a sandwich the next day.

Ingredients

1 chicken, cut into pieces

4 red and yellow peppers

1 onion, roughly sliced

1 clove of garlic, peeled 500ml tomato passata

1 small bunch of fresh basil

½ glass white wine

½ glass extra virgin olive oil

Salt Pepper

To begin, preheat the oven to 200°C. Place the whole peppers on a baking tray, drizzle them lightly with oil and cook for 15 minutes until the skin starts to blister. Remove the peppers and, while still hot, put them into a plastic bag, tie the top and leave for 1 hour. Then remove the skins, slice into 1cm strips and put to one side.

Meanwhile, heat the rest of the oil in a large saucepan and gently fry the garlic clove until it starts to turn golden, then add the pieces of chicken and season with salt and pepper. Fry the chicken until the skin has browned and then add the onion. Cook for 5 minutes before pouring in the white wine. After a couple of minutes, once the alcohol has evaporated, add the tomato passata and the fresh basil leaves, check the seasoning, adding more salt if required.

Turn down the heat, cover the pan with a lid and cook for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. If the sauce becomes too dry add a little water to loosen it up.

Add the sliced, peeled peppers, stir and then cook for a further 15 minutes before serving.

Indirizzi

Terrazza S. Pancrazio, Via di Porta

Osteria delle Coppelle Roma, Pianostrada Rome, Via delle Zoccolette

Trattoria da Teo Roma, Piazza

Marzapane al Caffè dell’Opera

Eating outside in Rome: the ten best restaurants with terraces

and gardens

Our favourite restaurants and trattorie with terraces and gardens, where you can eat outdoors in Rome during the warmer months.

GIANICOLO – A COOL HANGOUT

Yugo a S. Pancrazio

Different plates of fusion cuisine are served on the S. Pancrazio terrace, a little north of Trastevere. With a menu curated by award-winning chef Anthony Genovese, here you can tuck into raw dishes, carpacci, tartare and ceviche, which are all accompanied by refreshing cocktails.

IN THE CENTRE – A TRENDY NIGHT OUT

Osteria delle Coppelle

Lunch or dinner of traditional but creative first and second courses. There’s saltimbocca alla romana with speck and fried sage, and you can also choose between pizza, bruschette, home made pastries (€6) or a huge salad (from €9 to €12), with the option to eat outside in the piazza.

TRASTEVERE – A GOURMET MEAL

Pianostrada

An elegantly styled restaurant with a lovely courtyard-garden, a great long bar and an exposed kitchen. You can try anything from fried antipasti (€10-13.50), salads, gourmet panini (€12.50-14.50), and excellent bread that’s made in house. We loved the artichokes alla giudìa, and the fig and sun dried tomato focaccia. Mon closed.

TRASTEVERE – FOR ROMAN CUISINE

Trattoria da Teo

Serving traditional Roman cuisine, such as excellent amatriciana, broccoli and skate soup, coda alla vaccinara, roast lamb, or even a fresh plate of fish. There are ten tables inside and a beautiful veranda in the piazza. The amatriciana costs €9 while a single courgette flower (which are absolutely excellent) costs €1.50. Sun closed.

CENTRE – A GOURMET MEAL

Marzapane all’Opera

The menu at Marzapane is an array of traditional Italian dishes made with fresh ingredients and is particularly fish-focused. We enjoyed the tomato bread with jamon from Bellota (€13), insalata di lingua (salad with tongue) seasoned with turmeric, capers and mustard, mezze maniche pasta with amatriciana sauce (€19). Mon closed.

MONTI – GOURMET PIZZA AND CEVICHE

Madre

With a beautiful outdoor space, Madre is one of the coolest hangouts in Monti. Gourmet pizza and ceviche (€18) are the most popular dishes and they are indeed delicious. However prices are quite a bit higher than average – a Margherita with buffalo mozzarella costs €15, while La Roja, with prawns and smoked buffalo mozzarella, costs €26.

AVENTINO – A GOURMET MEAL

The Corner Marco Martini

At this award-winning restaurant and cocktail bar created by Marco Martini, you can dine in the beautiful terraced garden with a Liberty-style decor and sit yourself down on one of the couches or sink into an armchair. For lunch it is possible to order from one to three dishes costing between €10, €18 and €25; while for dinner there are different tasting menus costing from €95 to €200.

GARBATELLA – FOR ROMAN CUISINE

Ristoro degli Angeli

All ingredients come from the local Garbatella market and the menu boasts quite a few vegetarian recipes. For the first course there’s the focaccina with lard (made from organic Tuscan pork) for €8 while for your second course, try the rolled rhombus fish filled with ginger-seasoned vegetables (€20). Sun closed.

IN THE CENTRE – A GOURMET MEAL

Osteria Siciliana

This little piece of Sicily seats around 60 people, half indoors and the rest outside. You could begin with stuffed artichokes (€13), vegetable caponata (€12), or sardines alla beccafico (€15). For your first course we recommend spaghetti with salted tuna and Sicilian lemon peel (€20) or lobster soup with spaghetti (€26).

TESTACCIO – FOR ROMAN CUISINE

Flavio al Velavevodetto

Great cooking and a very pleasant atmosphere, with both an internal courtyard and a stunning terrace for eating outside. Fish is served on Tuesdays and Fridays, gnocchi on Thursdays, and roast lamb on Saturdays. Try the handmade pasta alla gricia, amatriciana and carbonara (€9) or the meatballs in sauce (€12).

www.puntarellarossa.it

0645502826.

Porta S. Pancrazio 32. Piazza delle Coppelle 54, tel. Zoccolette 22, tel. 0689572296. dei Ponziani 7, tel. 065818355. dell’Opera Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, tel. 0648160504. Madre Roma, Largo Angelicum 1, tel. 066789046. The Corner Marco Martini, Viale Aventino 121, tel. 0645597350. Ristoro degli Angeli Roma, Via Luigi Orlando 2, tel. 0651436020. Osteria Siciliana Rome, Via del Leoncino 28, tel. 0668805283. Flavio al Velavevodetto, Via di Monte Testaccio 97, tel. 065744194.

Associations

American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org

American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org

Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com

Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com

Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli

Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net

Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com

Daughters of the American Revolution

Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

Books

The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

Almost Corner Bookshop

Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942

Anglo American Bookshop

Via delle Vite 27, tel. 066795222

Bibliothèque Centre Culturel

Saint-Louis de France (French)

Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it

La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French)

Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com

Libreria Feltrinelli International

Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Religious

All Saints’ Anglican Church

Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881

Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30

Anglican Centre

Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com

Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community)

tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org

Bible Baptist Church

Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00

Christian Science Services

Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425

Church of All Nations

Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464

Church of Sweden

Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

International Women’s Club of Rome

tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it

Irish Club of Rome

irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org

Luncheon Club of Rome

tel. 3338466820

Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums

tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org

Professional Woman’s Association

www.pwarome.org

United Nations Women’s Guild

tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com

Welcome Neighbor

tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international)

Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484

Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish)

Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it

Open Door Bookshop

(second hand books English, French, German, Italian)

Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com

Otherwise

Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com

Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian

South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it

International Central Gospel Church

Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695

International Christian Fellowship

Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00

Jewish Community

Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061

Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas

Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761

Lutheran Church

Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German)

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church

Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

42 | July-August 2023 • Wanted in Rome

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic)

Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00

Roma Baptist Church

Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service

10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese)

Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara

Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091

Rome International Church

Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org

Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico)

Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258

St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church

Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00

St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic)

Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups

Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com

Archè

(HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it

Associazione Centro Astalli

(Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306

Associazione Ryder Italia

(Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it

Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it

Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily

Caritas foreigners’ support centre

Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554

Caritas hostel

Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235

Caritas legal assistance

Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369

Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport

• Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it

• Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it

• Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it

• Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994

• Traffic info tel. 1518

• Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic)

Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00

St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org

Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30

St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal)

Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish)

St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic)

Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30

Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00

Comunità di S. Egidio

Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234

Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen

Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027

Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre

St Paul’s within-the-Walls

Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339

Mason Perkins Deafness Fund

(Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it

Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772

Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza)

Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri”

Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351

Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104

The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma

24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers

• Ambulance tel. 118

• Carabinieri tel. 112

• Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336

• Fire brigade tel. 115

• Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999

• Police tel. 113

• Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355

44 | July-August 2023 • Wanted in Rome

CARACALLA FESTIVAL 2023

JULY 21, 25, 28

AUGUST 2, 4, 9 - 9.00pm

GIUSEPPE VERDI

LA TRAVIATA

CONDUCTOR PAOLO ARRIVABENI DIRECTOR LORENZO MARIANI

AUGUST 3, 6, 8, 10 - 9.00pm

GIUSEPPE VERDI

RIGOLETTO

CONDUCTOR RICCARDO FRIZZA DIRECTOR DAMIANO MICHIELETTO

TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA ORCHESTRA, CHORUS AND CORPS DE BALLET

JAZZ

APERITIF CONCERTS

AUGUST 2 - 7.00pm

COSTANZA ALEGIANI LUCIO DOVE VAI?

AUGUST 4 - 7.00pm

ELENA PAPARUSSO QUINTET

AUGUST 6 - 7.00pm

GABRIEL MARCIANO QUARTET

AUGUST 7 - 9.00pm

FRATELLI CUTELLO

NEW GENERATION IN COLLABORATION WITH FONDAZIONE MUSICA PER ROMA / CASA DEL JAZZ CONCERTS

OPERA
TO VERDI
DEDICATED
SOCI FONDATORI SOCI PRIVATI MECENATI MAIN SPONSOR PARTNER OFFICIAL TRAIN operaroma.it PRIVATE SHAREHOLDERS FOUNDERS PATRONS
Illustrazione di Marinella Senatore, Courtesy of the artist and Mazzoleni, LondonTorino

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