Wanted in Rome - June 2022

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THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

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4. ROME PREPARES FOR WILD BOAR CULL Andy devane

8. HOW CLASSIC ITALIAN DISHES GOT THEIR NAMES Martin Bennett

12. guide to Beaches near ROME

MISCELLANY

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ENTS 4

ROME PREPARES FOR WILD BOAR CULL

8

34

HOW CLASSIC ITALIAN DISHES GOT THEIR NAMES

Live music

28 Classical

Nature

ROME PREPARES FOR WILD BOAR CULL ANIMAL RIGHTS ACTIVISTS PROTEST AS SWINE FEVER THREAT PROMPTS EMERGENCY ACTION Andy Devane

I

n early May health authorities in the Lazio region raced to contain the potential spread of African Swine Fever among the city’s wild boar population by establishing a “red zone” encompassing large swathes of north and northwest Rome.

The move came after swine fever was detected in the carcass of a wild boar found in the 740-hectare Insugherata nature reserve in the northern fringes of the capital.

The containment measures were part of an attempt to stem the highly contagious viral

disease which, although fatal to pigs and wild hogs, is not transmitted to humans.

The ordinance includes a ban on picnics and the feeding of wild boar, known as cinghiali in Italian, and shoes must be disinfected when leaving farmland or nature reserves in the affected areas.

Bins – a regular and easy source of food for the urbanised wild boars – have been sealed off or positioned in ways to impede access for the animals.

People have been asked to report the presence

It is estimated that there are more than 20,000 wild boar in the greater Rome area.

4 | June 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Nature Italian farming organisation Coldiretti estimates that Italy has 2.3 million wild boar, around 20,000 of which are living in the province of Rome.

Italy needs to “significantly reduce” its wild boar population, said health undersecretary Andrea Costa whose ministry is finalising plans for a “slaughtering plan” in Lazio, Liguria and Piemonte in consultation with the Institute for Environmental Protection and Research (ISPRA).

Rome's rubbish makes easy pickings for wild boar.

of wild boar carcasses or wild boars that appear to be dying to the 24-hour toll free number 803555 - as regional authorities undertake a “census” of all pigs on farms in the area, as well as those kept as pets.

In mid-May the European Union intervened and the boundaries of the zona rossa were extended to a larger area of Rome, beyond the city’s GRA ring road to La Storta in the north and almost as far south as Vatican City.

The EU said that Italy must “ensure that consignments of porcine animals kept in the areas listed as an infected zone... and products thereof are not authorised for movements to other Member States and to third countries”, news agency ANSA reported.

The detection of swine fever in Rome, which had risen to 12 cases towards the end of May, followed an isolated outbreak of the disease earlier this year in the north-west Italian regions of Liguria and Piemonte.

Veterinary authorities have increased the surveillance of wild boar around Rome, including the testing of dead or dying animals, with Italy’s health minister Roberto Speranza pledging “maximum attention” from the government.

Swine fever originated in Africa before spreading to Europe and Asia, leading to the deaths of hundreds of millions of pigs worldwide and causing considerable financial losses to the farming sector.

The disease was detected in Italy in early January after tests were carried out on a dead wild boar in Ovada, about 120 km south-west of Milan, according to Reuters.

Costa told state broadcaster RAI that while he respects “the sensitivities of animal rights activists and environmentalists” the situation requires “emergency measures”.

He also acknowledged that swine fever poses a “very serious problem” for Italy’s livestock sector, amid concerns in the pork industry over the risk of the disease spreading to other regions.

The fine details of the containment measures around Rome were not available at the time of going to press but are expected to include a combination of culling and trapping animals to move elsewhere, according to Italian media.

The “selective killing” is set take place in areas bordering the red zone, to avoid wild boar being chased out of infected areas by dogs and to eliminate the risk of hunters involuntarily spreading the disease through their footwear or vehicles.

So how did swine fever arrive in Rome and is it connected to the outbreak in northern Italy?

Angelo Ferrari, the government’s special commissioner in charge of tackling swine fever, believes that the arrival of the disease in the capital has nothing to do with the cases in Liguria and Piemonte.

Based on epidemiological data collected so far, Ferrari believes the origin could be related to food waste, another burning topic in Rome.

Once confined to nature reserves around Rome, in recent years cinghiali have discovered that it is easier to rifle through the city’s often-overflowing bins than go foraging for food in the woods.

The plan to cull wild boar in Lazio faces much opposition from animal rights activists, particularly after it was specified on 21 May that the hunted animals could be eaten, within the locality they are killed and provided they test negative for swine fever.

Wanted in Rome • June 2022 | 5

Rome's wild boar have become increasingly urbanised in recent years. Photo ANSA.

“They open the hunt off-season and also make it possible to turn slaughtered meat into sausages and steaks,” said Rita Corboli of the Roman branch of the International Organization for the Protection of Animals (OIPA).

in Villa Glori park as footage surfaced of about two dozen cinghiali walking down a street in Balduina at night.

“For six specimens found positive for the swine fever virus, not dangerous for humans, there will be a massacre” – Corboli said in a statement on the OIPA website – “First they repopulate for use and consumption by hunters, then they decide to “depopulate” sentient beings without considering alternative measures.”

The boar have also been at the centre of multiple road accidents at night-time, posing particular risks for motorcyclists. In late May a cinghiale was killed after a scooter crashed into a herd of boar near Parco di Monte Ciocci, a few blocks from the Vatican Museums. The two men on board the motorbike were hospitalised, with minor injuries, while the boar, killed on impact, was taken away for swine fever testing.

Farmers take a different view. Coldiretti president Ettore Prandini has called for “immediate action to contain the population of wild boar that has invaded the countryside and cities, including the capital, causing economic damage for breeders and risks for the safety of citizens”.

Over the last year the animals have shown up outside hospitals and at school gates, leading some Roman neighbourhoods to impose curfews for safety reasons. Last summer the animals were photographed outside Italy’s foreign ministry near the Stadio Olimpico.

Plans for a cull of wild boar come amid increasingly brazen activity by the tusked animals which weigh up to 140 kg and can be extremely dangerous to humans if approached when in the presence of their piglets.

“The people of Rome are being held hostage by wild boar,” David Granieri, head of the Lazio branch of Coldiretti, told ANSA recently.

In early May a woman was attacked by a wild boar in the city’s northern Balduina district. The woman had been taking rubbish out to the bins on the street at night when she was chased and jumped on by a large sow, with seven piglets in tow.

“If it had not been for my dog defending me I don’t know what would have happened”, she told newspaper La Repubblica, paying tribute also to a passing motorist who came to her aid.

Days later another woman was chased by a hog 6 | June 2022 • Wanted in Rome

The question of who exactly is in charge of managing the city’s wild boar is complex, and in recent years the city and the Lazio region have both pointed the finger at each other.

In reality there are multiple agencies involved, complicated further by the animals moving in and out of nature reserves and straying between public and privately-owned land.

It appears however that the potential spread of swine fever has spurred authorities into finally tackling a situation that many Rome residents believe has long been out of control.

Wanted in Rome • June 2022 | 7

Food

HOW CLASSIC ITALIAN DISHES GOT THEIR NAMES AN ITALIAN MENU GUIDE WITH EXTRA HELPINGS OF ETYMOLOGY Martin Bennett

F

irst up is ‘a’ for abbacchio. These days it means meat of a young lamb, an Easter and Christmas favourite; less appetisingly the word comes from the shepherd’s crook – ad baculum – used to lead the creature to slaughter.

Baccalà (traceable to a Nordic word bakkeljauw / salted cod) is a common element in Roman cuisine, sometimes mantecato / buttered. The cod delicacy,

The name bruschetta has its origins in Roman dialect.

8 | June 2022 • Wanted in Rome

however, originates from Venice and beyond.

Its story, mixing courage with entrepreneurship, would not be out of place in a Norse saga.

In the winter of 1432 Venetian captain, Pietro Querini, was shipwrecked off the French coast, his lifeboat then drifting as far as Rost, an island off Norway. His Nordic rescuers hosted him for three months, time enough for Querini to observe a new

Food most diners and chefs would agree makes all the difference. Yes, as used in pasta all’amatriciana, from Amatrice, a small town in Lazio’s north-east corner, whose pig-farms line the approach roads.

Lacking the rich tomato-based sauce of l’amatriciana, there is a prototype in simpler “white” version: spaghetti alla gricia – from, in one entry, Grisciano, a tiny village near Rieti.

Others cite a similarly-named family of Swiss grocers. No matter. The dish, well-cooked, serves to minimise any lexical disputes.

The Castelli Romani town of Ariccia holds an annual festival in honour of porchetta.

way of curing fish. Following his return to his Venice, he set up an import business of the same product. In an age when meat was often in short supply, Querini’s fish became a popular substitute.

Served in paper cones, the fish, duly desalted and fried, is now a speciality of Rome’s Jewish Ghetto area. Rather ungratefully to the fish, perhaps from the ease with which cod were once caught, “fare la figura di baccalà” connotes stupidity. Or sometimes thinness, as does its counterpart stoccafisso, also cod but dried on sticks rather than salted, as in the old Dutch word stokvisch, referring to the racks upon which the fish were laid out or the fishes’ resulting stick-like hardness, the etymology having it both ways.

B is also for bruschetta from the Romanesco adjective ‘brusco’, in standard Italian ‘abbrustolito’/ toasted. A form of bread, “once for the poor, now a delicacy for the most sophisticated” to cite Giuliano Malizia’s Piccolo Dizionario Romanesco.

And so to pasta. Regarding both etymology and how best to attain the necessary creaminess, one of the most polemical of foods is the calorifically supercharged alla carbonara. The name has been traced to Abruzzo woodsmen who would take with them into the hills a dish of pasta mixed with eggs and cheese. The carbonara refers to charcoal, the end product of the woodsmen’s work. The mountain staple, some people claim, only reached Rome in 1944 when American soldiers would add bacon to align it with their breakfast back home.

A change in ingredients then, though the name stuck.

Romans reappropriated the dish by substituting bacon / pancetta with the more locally authentic guanciale / smoked pig’s cheek, an ingredient

The English-speaking world, to our loss, tends to make spaghetti and pasta synonymous. Yet Il Grande Dizionario Garzanti has a page illustrating the different varieties distinguishable by length (pasta lunga or corta), thickness and above all shape: butterflies/ farfalle, worms / vermicelli, snails / lumache; thimbles / ditali, pipes / pipe, tubes/ cannelloni; then helices / eliche, spirals / fusilli, stars / stellini (in a sky of soup); little ears / orecchiette.

All self-evident, unlike tonnarelli: Nothing to do with tuna but from tondo / round although the shape is square, if one get one’s stomach round that. Then ravioli, etymologies referring to a Genovese cook of the same name, to rabiola, to our good old northern turnip or to groviglio / in modern Italian a tangle but in another meaning a type of stuffing.

Similarly elusive are strozzapreti / “priest-choker”.

Dictionaries define it as “pasta” or “a form of gnocchi” according to region: gnocchi near Trento and in Alto Adige, where it is also known as strangolapreti, and pasta in central Italy and elsewhere. Naples pins the term, in its Neapolitan incarnation strangulaprievete, on a certain abbot, Galiani (1728-1787), who in his enthusiasm for the dish risked self-strangulation. On a similarly anti-clerical note, the northern Emilia-Romagna region has a story that the name reflects a wish, on the part of impoverished parishioners, that voracious prelates would meet a similar fate as the one in Naples.

A footnote points out how the custom of church landlords was to partially settle their groundrents in the form of food; this “poor” dish was offered as a particularly effective way of doing it. A more neutral etymology is the similarity of the pasta’s shape to a cleric’s collar. Or maybe the origin is phonetical: from Greek’s strongulos e preptos, meaning round-shaped.

Wanted in Rome • June 2022 | 9

Food swine / pork, cow / beef, etc. Here, though, the animal arrives before the diner both verbally and, except for the absence of bones, physically intact.

Adjacent from Rome’s opera house is a restaurant a little larger than a cubbyhole. Three-wheelered in from the Colli Romani, the animal here sports a pair of sunglasses to attract customers. With a quarto of white wine, one can sample slices of the same spiced meat to order.

The popular "pick-me-up" dessert tiramisù originated in the Veneto region.

From pasta to pizza. Alberto Angelo in Gusti traces this quintessentially Italian delight to ancient Egypt, at least in its shape and base. Then, etymologically, to Byzantine Greek: pitta, the bread nowadays spelt with a single t. Or to Longobard (what?) bizzo / a bite. Whatever, the first recorded use of “pizza” was as early as 997 when the Bishop of Gaeta, north of Naples, stipulates that one of his tenants send him duodecim pizze /12 pizzas each Easter and Christmas. A pity the same cleric was not around centuries later to preside over pizza’s marriage with the tomato. Or at least its passata /paste/ id est passed through a sieve to remove seeds and skin.

Tomatoes still whole on their plant were initially prized for decoration rather than for eating. Add white mozzarella cheese and fresh green basil and in Pizza Margherita you are served up the colours of the Italian flag honouring the eponymous queen. Pizza Bismark, for its part, was named to celebrate the 1882 Italian-Austrian-German alliance. Whether the fried egg in the middle represents the Prussian emperor’s helmet is up to the consumer. Not to be outdone by Naples, pinsa and pinserie are Rome’s equivalents. Both, fittingly enough, from the Latin pinsere: to work dough into comparatively thick strips.

And so to porchetta. In England meat and the animal from which it is cut often have different names. The origin of this goes back to the Norman Conquest: Old English words for the cattle raised in the fields by the hapless Anglo-Saxon peasant, Norman French/Latinised equivalents for the meat once it arrived at the (Norman) Lord of the Manor’s table. For example, sheep-mutton, 10 | June 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Elsewhere, in Rome’s Piazzale Prenestina, a kiosk sells at €3 each porchetta sandwiches, a super-snack to be consumed while waiting for the bus? Back in Ariccia, its place of origin, the animal/meat has its annual festival, and likewise in Piglio near Frosinone.

Similarly-sounding scarpetta, as in “fare la scarpetta”, is not a shoe, but bread shaped into one to scoop up any left-overs from your plate. “The last mouthful and the most exquisite,” enthuses Giuliano Malizia’s Piccolo Dizionario Romanesco.

Finally dessert. From Treviso near Venice comes tiramisù / pick me up. Fittingly for a dish from Casanova’s hometown, it was once touted as an aphrodisiac. (cf. and more respectably, the ad for coffee, a key ingredient, ‘Give your life a little lift.’)

Or you might try a zabaione or zaglione, a sort of custard / trifle with Marsala wine. The name has been twinned with a mediaeval mercenary, Giovan Paolo Baglioni, or, more peaceably, with Franciscan monk Pasquale Baylon, patron saint of pastry cooks. Other theories link it with the Illyrian word for barley beer or the Emilian one for food (zibanda).

With so many etymologies, small wonder that in the broader sense the word connotes a random but happy mixture. Another incarnation of the word, at least according to some, is Zibaldone, as in the title of the notebooks by the famously sweet-toothed Leopardi, a sort of philosophical, literary and sometimes gastronomical ‘trifle’ where, over a period of 15 years, the poet jotted down his musings.

So, suggesting an agnostic’s “bread of heaven”, he writes on page 4184, “Eating, that most interesting of occupations, needs to be done well since on good digestion depends a man’s well-being, his good physical state and thus his mental and moral health as well.”

Food

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Wanted in Rome • June 2022 | 11

Beaches TOP 10

BE ACHES N E A R RO M E For all you beach-lovers here is a selection of resorts within easy reach of Rome. Each one, ordered from north to south, offers either stabilimenti (private beaches with entrance fees and changing facilities and refreshments) or spiaggia libera (free beach with the option to rent a lounge chair and/or umbrella), and all have children’s facilities. We also highlight the beaches that have been awarded Bandiera Blu (Blue Flag) status in 2022 for meeting the international quality standards for cleanliness.

Sabaudia

S. Marinella

S. MARINELLA

SABAUDIA

The northern-most beach on our list offers a small strip of white sandy beach with the choice of setting up camp at either the stabilimenti or spiaggia libera. There are two trains per hour leaving from Termini station for S. Marinella station and the journey takes about one hour. Popular with wind-surfers.

Blue Flag 2022.

Famous for its beauty and spaciousness. Although predominantly spiaggia libera, there are a few stabilimenti to choose from. Cotral buses run from Rome’s Laurentina metro stop (line B) to Piazza Oberdan in Sabaudia. From here take the shuttle bus which runs up and down the local coastline. Sabaudia is also known for its Mussolini-era architecture.

Blue Flag 2022.

S. SEVERA Located about 50 km north of Rome and less than 10 km south of S. Marinella. Take one of the regular Civitavecchia trains from Rome and the beach is a ten-minute walk from the station. There are numerous stabilimenti, restaurants and spiaggia libera and it is also known for the Italia Surf Expo which takes place every July.

FREGENE A former chic hotspot of the 1960s and 1970s, Fregene boasts long stretches of sand with both stabilimenti and spiaggia libera. Along the coast there is also a wide selection of family-oriented restaurants and less expensive tavole calde. Rome’s club scene tends to flock to Fregene and nearby Ostia (see below) in the summer months. Although Fregene isn’t the easiest place to reach by public transport, Cotral buses depart from Rome’s Valle Aurelia metro stop (line A) and the journey takes about one hour.

S. FELICE CIRCEO Nearly 100 km south of Rome are the beaches and crystal clear waters of Circeo. Stabilimenti abound but look for the spiaggia libera nearest the port: it definitely merits the mini-trek. Cotral buses leave for Circeo from the Laurentina metro station in Rome. Get off at the last stop and walk for ten minutes until you reach the beach.

Blue Flag 2022.

TERRACINA Located just 10 km south of Circeo. From Termini station take the hourly regional train for Naples and get off at Monte S. Biagio. From there, take the bus for about 20 minutes until you reach the beach.

Terracina has as many spiagge libere as stabilimenti and both are well-kept and clean, making it a popular destination for families.

Blue Flag 2022.

OSTIA/CANCELLI

SPERLONGA

Ostia and the Cancelli (gates) are along the coast nearest Rome.

Ostia is loaded with often pricey and trendy stabilimenti, while the Cancelli offer free beaches equipped with restaurants and bathrooms. Public transport takes less than an hour and you can use the same metro/bus tickets for public transport in Rome. Take the 070 express bus from EUR, or the Roma-Lido train from Porta S. Paolo beside the Piramide metro station (line B). To reach the Cancelli get off at the last stop and take the 07 MARE bus until you reach the gates numbered 1, 2, 3 etc.

The stabilimenti dominate this gorgeous getaway with picturesque views, leaving only narrow strips for the spiaggia libera. Take the regional train headed to Naples from Termini station and get off at Fondi-Sperlonga. Once there, take the Piazzoli bus for 20 minutes to Sperlonga, alternatively take a private taxi but be warned they are far more expensive than the €1.50 bus ticket.

Blue Flag 2022.

ANZIO/NETTUNO These beaches are only ten minutes apart and are easily reached from Rome. One train per hour leaves from Termini station, stopping first at Anzio ( Blue Flag 2022) and then at Nettuno.

The journey takes 60-70 minutes and the beaches are about a 10-minute walk from the respective train stations.

12 | June 2022 • Wanted in Rome

GAETA This area has a quaint mediaeval town to explore and clean beaches. From Termini station take one of the frequent trains headed towards Naples, get off at Formia and take the bus for another 25 minutes until you reach Gaeta. For more information about transportation consult the Cotral and Trenitalia websites www.cotralspa.it, www.trenitalia.it.

Blue Flag 2022.

Pools TOP 10

OU T DO O R P O O LS I N RO M E Come mid-summer in Rome, most of us are in need of the cool of an outdoor pool to relax by. But Rome isn’t awash with them and most are part of privately- owned swimming and sports clubs or upmarket hotels. Expect to pay upwards of €40 a day per person for entry to exquisitely chic surroundings at the top end of the spectrum, and at least €10 for perfectly adequate but som times crowded and scruffy cheaper pools. We’ve picked ten of Rome’s best, from New York-style rooftop pools with to-die-for views over the city and a nice line in cocktails to family-friendly cheap and cheerful clubs. The € symbols represent ranking by price.

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1. ALDROVANDI PALACE

7. HYDROMANIA

Small and very select city-centre oasis, La Ranocchia (meaning “little frog”) is shaded by overhanging palms and huge cream parasols. Arrive early as space is limited around this pool. Mon-Sun 10.00-19.30. Mon-Sat €55, Sun €60, weekly pass €350. Via Ulisse Aldrovandi 15 (Parioli), tel. 063223993, www.aldrovandi.com. €€€€

Think miles of water slides, wave machines, pools, South-Pacific-style thatched bars, shops and a mini-club. Weekdays 09.30-18.30, weekends 09.30-19.30. Daily adult rate €24, kids €19.

Half day rates €19/17. Casal Lumbroso 33 (Aurelio), tel.

0666183183, www.hydromania.it. €€

+39 06 84482 651 romeinternationalschool.it 2. BELLE ARTI

Free at weekends and well worth a mention for its fantastic central location tucked behind a church on Via Flaminia. A quiet atmosphere makes it good for those with very young children.

Mon-Fri 07.00-21.00. €15. Sat 07.00-20.00, Sun 08.00-20.00. €25.

Children aged 7-13 accompanied by adult pay €10 week day / €15 weekend. Via Flaminia 158 (Flaminio), tel. 063226529, www.circolotennisbellearti.it. €€

3. CAVALIERI HILTON This Olympic-sized outdoor pool-witha-view is the crème de la crème of Rome’s pools if you like serious swimming. It’s large, luxurious and well worth the trip to Monte Mario. With a separate children’s pool. 08.00-19.00 daily (weekdays €40, weekends €80, sun lounger and towel included). Via Alberto Cadlolo 101 (Monte Mario), tel. 0635091, www.cavalieri-hilton.it. €€€€€

4. CIRCOLO VALENTINI Slightly shabby but friendly, family-run pool, used by locals. The adjoining restaurant will make up a lunchtime salad for around €4.

09.00-19.00 (weekdays €10, half-day €7, weekends €14/€10). Via della Marcigliana 597, corner Via Bufalotta (Talenti/Prati Fiscali), tel.

0687120207, www.circolovalentini.it. €

8. PISCINA DELLE ROSE Large pool perfect for families, swimming and canoeing lessons.

Mon-Fri 09.00-21.00, weekends 09.00-19.00 (€16 per day, €14 half-day). Viale America 20 (EUR), tel. 065926717, www.piscinadellerose.it. €€

9. RADISSON SAS HOTEL Seriously smart and stunning heated rooftop swimming pool with sections for children and adults and poolside fine dining.

09.00-19.00 (adults €65 Mon-Fri, €90 Sat-Sun, children 50 per cent off ). Via Filippo Turati 171 (Esquilino), tel. 06444841, www.radissonblu.com/eshotel-rome. €€€€

10. S.S.D. VITA Professional, outdoor swimming pool arranges lessons for children and adults and has tennis courts and a gym. Mon-Fri 07.00-21.30. €12 daily. Sat 07.00-20.00. Sun 08.00-20.00. €15 daily rate weekend.

Children aged 10 upwards pay adult rate. Kids aged 5-10 €8, kids under 5 free. Via del Fontanile Arenato 66 (Aurelio), tel. 066634202, www.vitaclub.it. €

5. CLUB LANCIANI A large tennis club with an outdoor pool offering lessons, free swimming and a children’s summer school. Weekdays 09.30-18.30, weekends 09.30-19.30. Adults €10.50/15, kids €7.50/11. Via di Pietralata 135 (Tiburtino), tel. 064181401, www.clublanciani.eu. €€

6. GRAND HOTEL GIANICOLO Part of a luxury hotel, this pool is located in elegant surroundings with palm trees and views of Trastevere from the Gianicolo hill.

Lunch and dinner served at pool-side restaurant. 09.00-19.00, weekdays €25, weekend rate €35. Via delle Mura Gianicolensi 107 (Gianicolo), tel. 0658333405, www.grandhotelgianicolo.it. €€

Hydromania

Wanted in Rome • June 2022 | 13

LAGO DI ALBANO This volcanic crater lake presents visitors with beautiful views of its clear water and surrounding forests. The picturesque towns along the shores serve as popular summer resort areas for Romans, including Castel Gandolfo, home to the summer papal palace whose gardens were recently opened to the public. On the other side of the lake is Palazzolo, a villa bought by Rome’s Venerable English College in 1920 and now open to guests. The towns surrounding the lake are known for their restaurants, shops and fruit farms. Swimming, fishing and boating are among the favourite activities for visitors, and the lake’s beach is located on the western shore. A simple 45-minute train ride from Termini, visitors can reach Lago Albano by taking the FL4 train towards Albano Laziale and getting off at the Castel Gandolfo stop.

around rome LAGO DI NEMI Lago di Nemi is a small and unique volcanic lake where divers in the 19th century discovered two large ships built for the notorious Roman emperor Caligula at the bottom of the lake, filled withbottom of the lake, filled with artworks and treasures.

Replicas of the ships along with other artefacts are on display at the nearby Museum of Roman Ships.

Travellers can also visit the natural caves around the lake, which were a favourite haunt of 19th-century foreign artists such as Turner. Nemi is associated with the cult of the Roman goddess Diana, and, for the last 80 years, an annual strawberry festival.

Visitors can reach the lake by taking the SS7 Appia southbound as far as Genzano, and then following signs for Nemi.

LAGO DI VICO Formed by the volcanic activity of Mount Venus, Lago di Vico offers a unique geological backdrop set amid lush woodland and hills. The surrounding nature reserve is a haven for wildlife, but what is most characteristic of the area are the hazel and chestnut plantations. Lakeside campsites and hotels offer swimming, sailing and horse riding. The two towns worth a visit are Ronciglione and Caprarola with its magnificent and recently restored Villa Farnese. Lago di Vico is a 90-minute drive from Rome taking the SS2 Cassia, and turning north at Sutri.

14 | June 2022 • Wanted in Rome

LAGO DI BOLSENA Located on the site of the Vulsini volcano, dormant since about 100 BC, this crater lake has two islands and is surrounded by rolling hills and vegetation. The area around Montefisascone on the southeast shore of the lake is famous for its Est! Est!! Est!!! wine. The town of Bolsena in the northeast is a popular tourist resort in summer and it is here that the famous so-called Eucharistic Miracle took place in 1263 when a Bohemian priest is said to have seen blood coming from the host that he had just consecrated at Mass. Capodimonte on the southwest of the lake is also worth a visit. The lakeside area provides activities for sports and nature enthusiasts all year round. The best way to reach Lago di Bolsena from Rome is by car, as buses to Bolsena from Termini Station are infrequent.

LAGO DI BRACCIANO Just north-west of Rome along the Via Cassia, Lake Bracciano is one of the most easily accessible lakes for Romans. The ban on motor boats (except for a little ferry) means it remains an ideal spot for swimming, sailing and canoeing. The Lega Navale operates a dinghy sailing school in Anguillara.

Churches and historic sites are located in the three small towns around the lake: Bracciano, Trevignano and Anguillara. There are also places for camping and horse riding tours by the lake, which is just an hour on the Viterbo train line from Rome’s Ostiense station. The lake is overlooked by the 15th-century Orsini-Odescalchi castle in Bracciano, often chosen as the venue for jet-set weddings, and there is also an air force museum at nearby Vigna di Valle.

LAGO DI MARTIGNANO This tiny volcanic lake just to the east of Lake Bracciano offers clean water and beaches with scenic views of the surrounding meadows and wildlife. Lago di Martignano is known for its outdoor activities such as horse riding, hiking, mountain biking and swimming. Umbrellas, loungers and luggage storage are available to rent along with canoes, sailboats and windsurfing equipment. It is also known for the hot sulphurous springs surrounding the lake. Arriving at Lago di Martignano by car is the easiest option. Reaching the lake by public transport involves taking the FM3 train to Cesano and opting for either a local bus or taxi.

Wanted in Rome • June 2022 | 15

ARTandSEEK Please note that there may be some English-language cultural workshops visitsof to variation to opening times atand some museums and exhibitions for children in Rome.

For these activities due to covid restrictions. It event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforis advisable to check websites for visiting kids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandsedetails and make reservation before going. ekforkids.com.

Bioparco Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and offers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it.

Bowling Silvestri This sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.

16 | June 2022 • Wanted in Rome

There are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com.

Casa del Parco Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com.

Casina di Raffaello Play centre in Villa Borghese offering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Raffaello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadiraffaello.it.

Cinecittà World This 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special effects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it.

Climbing Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds.

Tues, Thurs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473.

Explora The 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it.

Go-karting Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel.

0665004962, www.kartroma.it.

Gymboree This children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, offering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it.

Hortis Urbis Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it.

Il Nido Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.

Luneur Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it.

Rainbow Magicland The 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it.

Time Elevator A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. The time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it.

Zoomarine This amusement and aquatic park outside Rome offers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.

Wanted in Rome • June 2022 | 17

Rome’s artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant importantstreet street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre.

Here is where to is find Rome’s mainthe street artstreet projects murals. from the centre.

Here where to find main artand projects and murals around Rome.

Esquilino Esquilino Murals Murals byby Alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Pistone, Nicola Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, Diamond.

PiazzaMafredo Manfredo Fanti 47.

Piazza Fanti 47.

Marconi Marconi The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artistSeth Seth is located in a street artist is located in a former former soap factory Via Antonio soap factory on Viaon Antonio AvogaAvogadro, opposite dro, opposite Ostiense'sOstiense’s landmark Gasometro.

For For details see landmark Gasometro. details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com.

Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz Metropoliz This This former former meat meat factory factory inin the the outskirts of Rome is nowa astreet street outskirts of Rome is now art art museumasaswell well as as being museum being home hometoto some200 200squatting squatters,migrants. many of The them some migrants.

The Museo dell’Altrodi e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altroveor diMAAM, Metropoliz, or MAAM, Metropoliz, is only open is only open on Saturdays, and on Saturdays, and features the work features the work of more than 300 of more than 300 artists including artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Edoardo Kobra, and GioDiamond.

Pistone, Pistone, Sten&Lex See Sten&Lex, Pablo Echaurren and MAAM Facebook page for details.

Borondo.

See MAAM Via Prenestina 913. Facebook page for details. Via Prenestina 913.

Ostiense Ostiense Fronte Del by by Blu.Blu. Via Via del Porto Fronte Del Porto Porto del Fluviale.

Porto Fluviale.

Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via Fish’n’Kids

by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Fluviale.

Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Wall of Fame

by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali.

Magazzini Shelley by Generali.

Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense.

Shelley by Ozmo.

Ostiense Palazzo occupato

by Blu, Via Ostiense. underpass, Via Ostiense.

Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Pigneto Ostiense.

Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Pigneto Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

18 | June 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi.

Lodi.

2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio.

Fortebraccio.

2501 mural on Via Blu Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Francesco Baracca.

Francesco Baracca.

Prati Prati Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù.

Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo Nuovo Mercato Trionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria.

Andrea Doria. theSabotino. bear by Daniza the bear byDaniza ROA. Via ROA. Via Sabotino.

Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill Roadkill by Fintan Magee.

Magee. Via Via The

by Fintan Cristoforo Numai.

Cristoforo Numai.

Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo.

Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo.

Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals andand Gio Tunnel muralsby byMr MrTHOMS THOMS Pistone.

Via Decio Mure.Mure.

Gio Pistone.

Via Decio Nido di di Vespe ViaVia del Nido VespebybyLucamaleonte.

Lucamaleonte.

Monte del Grano. del Monte del Grano.

Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89.

Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by byBlu. Blu.Via ViaCiciliano Ciciliano and and Via Via Murals Palombini (Casal Palombini (Casaldè dèPazzi).

Pazzi).

Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare.

Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare.

Metro B station.

Metro B station.

S.S. Basilio Basilio SanBa SanBa features features large-scale large-scale works on on the façades façades of in the of social-housing social-housingblocks blocks the disadvantaged north-east suburb of in the disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerasuburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. tion project includes works by Italian The project artistsregeneration Agostino Iacurci, Hitnesincludes and Blu works by Italian artists alongside Spain's Liqen. ViaAgostino Maiolati, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Spain’s Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, S. Giovanni Via Treia.

Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S. Giovanni Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

It’s aa New NewDay Daybyby Alice Pasquini.

It’s Alice Pasquini.

Via Via Anton Ludovico.

Anton Ludovico.

S. Lorenzo S. Lorenzo Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli.

Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli.

Feminicide mural by Elisa Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo.

Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi.

Via Dei Sardi.

Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159.

Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159.

Mural by

by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Via Aquilonia.

Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia.

S. Pietro S. Pietro Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S. di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo.

Gallo.

Testaccio Testaccio Hunted byby ROA. ViaVia Galvani.

HuntedWolf Wolf ROA. Galvani. #KindComments by by Alice Pasquini, Via #KindComments Alice Pasquini, Volta, Testaccio market.

Via Volta, Testaccio market.

Tor Pignattara Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via ViaAntonio AntonioTempesta.

Tempesta.

Dulk.

Etnik.Via ViaBartolomeo Bartolomeo Perestrello Etnik.

Perestrello 51.

51. Coffee Break Etam Cru. Via Coffee Break by Etamby Cru. Via Ludovico Pavoni.

Ludovico Pavoni.

Tom

by Jef Via Gabrio TomSawyer Sawyer

by Aerosol.

Jef Aerosol.

Via Serbelloni.

Gabrio Serbelloni.

Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema PasoliniVia

by Acqua Diavù.Bullicante.

Former Cinema Impero, Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante.

Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Alessi.

Herakut.

Capua 14.

GaleazzoVia Alessi.

Agostino Iacurci.

Via Muzio Herakut. Via Capua 14. Oddi 6.

Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6.

Tor Marancia Tor Big Marancia The City Life scheme features 14-m The Big City Life scheme tall murals by 22 Italian and features interna14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and tional street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia andartists Jerico.including The idea international street was to transform area's of Mr Klevra, Seth,the Gaia andblocks Jerico. flats into an open-air art museum. Via The idea was to transform the area’s Tor Marancia. www.bigcity.life.it. blocks of flats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Wanted in Rome • June 2022 | 19

ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS AND MAKE RESERVATION BEFORE GOING. VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va.

Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00.

Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday.

Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio.

09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30.

Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

20 | June 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it.

National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid.

Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection.

09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it.

Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant.

09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists.

Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Capitoline Museums

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it.

The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00.

Mon closed.

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

MATTATOIO

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org.

Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00.

Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00.

Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron.

Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00.

Guided tours on prior booking.

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it.

Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Museo Canonica

Palazzo Merulana

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959.

09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it.

Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation.

09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Guided tours in Italian and English.

Wanted in Rome • June 2022 | 21

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ff-maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Visual art, design, architecture, fashion design and beauty apothecary in a 17th-century palace. Via dei Barbieri 7, tel.

0668805928, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Delfini, Via dei Delfini 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel.

0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pastificio Cerere

This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel.

0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

22 | June 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel.

0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at affordable prices by artists working in various fields. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo

Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists.

Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel.

0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel.

066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

MAXXI amazes you, always art

architecture design photography cinema

24 | June 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Galleria Russo

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel.

066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions.

Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Galleria Varsi

Plus Arte Puls

A dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di Grotta Pinta 38, tel. 066865415, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Gavin Brown's Enterprise

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

RvB ARTS

Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.

Sala 1

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

La Nuova Pesa

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists.

Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino d’Arte Moderna

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel.

0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

Monitor

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

Nero Gallery

The Gallery Apart

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

Nomas Foundation

TraleVolte

This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel.

0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

White Noise Gallery

Based in the S. Lorenzo district, this gallery exhibits unconventional work by young Italian and international artists. Via della Seggiola 9, tel. 066832833, www.whitenoisegallery.it.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists.

Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

Wanted in Rome • June 2022 | 25

where to go in Rome

WHAT’S ON

Kiki Smith exhibition at Galleria Lorcan O'Neill, see page 28. Sky, 2013, courtesy Galleria Lorcan O'Neill.

Wanted in Rome • June 2022 | 27

EXHIBITIONS TITIAN: DIALOGUES OF NATURE AND LOVE 14 JUNE-18 SEPT

Galleria Borghese presents Tiziano: Dialoghi di Natura e di Amore, an exhibition of paintings by Titian.

Curated by Maria Giovanna Sarti, the exhibition is centred around the Nymph and Shepherd, painted by the Venetian Master circa 1565, on loan from the Kunsthistorisches Museum in Vienna as part of a cultural exchange programme between the two institutions. This painting will be exhibited alongside other Titian works in the Borghese collection, including Sacred and Profane Love, painted circa 1514 early in the artist’s career. Galleria Borghese says the exhibition will examine some of Titian’s “constant themes”, including nature, love, and time. Galleria Borghese, Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5, www. galleriaborghese.beniculturali.it.

KIKI SMITH 31 MAY-JULY

Kiki Smith's new exhibition at Lorcan O'Neill Gallery is inspired by the archaic cultures and rites of the Mediterranean. As well as paintings depicting the cosmos and the night sky, the show includes bronze sculptures - among the most complex of Smith’s career - of animals, birds, sirens, and

Titian at Galleria Borghese. Ninfa e pastore, Vienna, Kunsthistorisches Museum.

offerings to the gods. A number of these works were particularly influenced by the myths of the Greek islands, where Smith had a solo show at the Deste Foundation on Hydra in 2019. Galleria Lorcan O'Neill, Vicolo dei Catinari 3, tel.

0668892980, www.lorcanoneill. com.

ROBERT DOISNEAU 28 MAY-4 SEPT

The Ara Pacis museum in Rome hosts an exhibition dedicated to the legendary French photographer Robert Doisneau from. Curated

by Gabriel Bauret, the exhibition comprises more than 130 black and white photographs from the collection of the Atelier Robert Doisneau in Montrouge.

The images on display capture the

Le Baiser de l’Hôtel de Ville by Robert Doisneau at the Ara Pacis.

28 | June 2022 • Wanted in Rome

daily life of men and women who lived in Paris in the 1930s, 1940s and 1950s, the most prolific period for Doisneau who was a champion of French humanist photography and a pioneer of photojournalism.

Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel. 060608, www.arapacis.it.

GIANNI BERENGO GARDIN 4 MAY-18 SEPT

Rome’s MAXXI celebrates the Italian photojournalist Gianni Berengo Gardin with an exhibition of 150 photographs. Titled The eye as vocation, the show is described by MAXXI as a “unique visual heritage” that spans from the post-war period up to the present day. Berengo Gardin, aged 92, was present at the inauguration of the exhibition which is curated by Margherita Guccione and Alessandra Mauro.

The black and white photographs on show include his most famous as well as some lesser-known and previously unpublished images, and reflect the photographer’s wide-ranging career. The exhibition highlights the distinctive features of Berengo Gardin’s research, including people and the various spaces they occupy in society, as well as his reportage photography for iconic Italian companies. Central themes of the images on display include industry, workers’ struggles, psychiatric hospitals, gypsies, Venice, the earthquake-hit L’Aquila, and everyday life. Museo nazionale delle

arte del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4/A, www.maxxi.art.

WORLD PRESS PHOTO 28 APRIL-12 JUNE

Rome hosts an exhibition dedicated to the World Press Photo 2022 at Palazzo delle Esposizioni. The 2022 winner of the World Press Photo of the Year went to Amber Bracken for her image of wooden crosses in remembrance of indigenous children who died at a former residential school in Canada following the discovery of 215 unmarked graves in Kamloops, British Columbia. The exhibition provides a fascinating and often hard-hitting chance to look back over the dramatic world events that took place over the last year. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.

DISNEY: THE ART OF STORYTELLING 15 APRIL-25 SEPT

Palazzo Barberini stages an exhibition dedicated to Disney, the world’s most famous animation studios.

The interactive show displays original Disney sketches from handdrawn classics from the 1930s up to modern-day sequences created using the most sophisticated digital technology. The exhibition highlights Disney’s extraordinary ability to translate literature into moving images, tracing the immortal stories back to the myths and children’s fairy tales of yesteryear. The show provides insights into the artistic production of timeless characters and classic movies such as Snow White, The Little Mermaid, Fantasia and Pinocchio, as well as the films’ muchloved soundtracks. Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, www. mostradisneyroma.it.

delves into the production of video art in Italy, a leading protagonist of the experimental genre, from the late 1960s to the present day.

On display are 20 installations and about 300 multimedia works created by more than 100 artists.

For details see Pala Expo website, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.

L’ELEFANTE E IL COLLE PERDUTO 8 APRIL-2 OCT

An exhibition at Trajan’s Markets recalls how the skull and left tusk of an extinct elephant species were discovered during excavations to make way for Via dell’Impero in 1932. The fossilised remains belonged to a straight-tusked elephant (Palaeoloxodon antiquus) a prehistoric species that roamed Europe and western Asia during the Ice Age. The surprise discovery came about during frantic works to bulldoze a path through the Velia or Velian hill – a spur between the Oppian Hill and the north side of the Palatine – as part of Mussolini’s plans to connect the Colosseum with Piazza Venezia. The new thoroughfare, today called Via dei Fori Imperiali, was inaugurated on 28 October 1932 on the 10th anniversary of the March on Rome, and soon became the principal venue for parades during the fascist regime. However the price paid by Rome’s artistic and archaeological heritage – due to

the destruction of the Velia and the rushed nature of the excavation – was very high. First of all it meant the almost total loss of the garden of Villa Rivaldi, a Renaissance-era palace whose grounds stretched as far as the Basilica of Maxentius in the Roman Forum. Cutting through the Velia yielded rich archaeological finds from the Roman era, in particular the remains of a domus with wellpreserved frescoes and numerous statues. The unearthed treasures were collected hastily and crated off to city warehouses. The most surprising discovery was made on 20 May 1932, when numerous fossilised remains came to light, among them the elephant skull and tusk. The remains of the elephant are currently on display alongside archaeological finds, archive film footage and large watercolours of the Villa Rivaldi garden, painted before it was lost forever. Trajan’s Markets, on Via IV Novembre 94, www.mercatiditraiano. it.

SUPER BAROQUE 26 MARCH-3 JULY

Art in Genoa from Rubens to Magnasco is the title of a “Super Baroque” exhibition at the Scuderie del Quirinale, organised in collaboration with the National Gallery of Washington. The show is billed as “a journey among the aristocratic families, the splendour, the wealth, the power, the

IL VIDEO RENDE FELICI, VIDEOARTE IN ITALIA 12 APRIL-4 SEPT

Valentina Valentini curates an exhibition devoted to Italian video art taking place in two venues: Palazzo delle Esposizioni on Via Nazionale and Rome’s municipal Gallery of Modern Art (GAM) on Via Francesco Crispi. The show

Gianni Berengo Gardin at MAXXI. Una grande nave in bacino San Marco, Venezia, 2013. © Gianni Berengo Gardini/Courtesy Fondazione Forma per la Fotografia.

Wanted in Rome • June 2022 | 29

BILL VIOLA: ICONS OF LIGHT 5 MARCH-26 JUNE

Palazzo Bonaparte’s first show in its new season is dedicated to Bill Viola, the American video artist whose installations revolve around electronic, sound and image technology. Curated by Kira Perov, the exhibition comprises 10 works by Viola including Ascension (2000) and Water Portraits (2015). Piazza Venezia 5, www. mostrepalazzobonaparte.it.

L'elefante e il colle perduto at Trajan's Markets. O. FERRETTI, Demolizioni per l'apertura di via dell’Impero con i resti dell'elefante preistorico, olio su cartone (1932) Museo di Roma, MR 812 (© Roma - Sovrintendenza Capitolina ai Beni Culturali - Museo di Roma).

magnificence, the masterpieces and works of an entire era in the city that has become the centre of the world, Genoa, the Superb.”

Comprising about 120 works from major Italian and American museums, as well as prestigious private collections, the exhibition traces the extraordinary period of artistic explosion and economic boom in 17th-century Genoa. The show features portrayals of pomp, luxury and landscapes by masters including Rubens, Van Dyck, Castiglione, Piola, De Ferrari and Magnasco. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via Ventiquattro Maggio 16, www. scuderiequirinale.it.

CURSUS HONORUM 24 MARCH-2 OCT

Under the title “The government of Rome before Caesar”, this exhibition at the Capitoline Museums aims to illustrate the political roles that formed the backbone of the power system that governed Rome in the Republican age. The artefacts on display, examining the life of patricians as well as plebeians, are explained by “talking statues” in each room. For visiting details see website, www.museicapitolini.org.

LONDON CALLING: BRITISH CONTEMPORARY ART NOW 17 MARCH-17 JULY

Palazzo Cipolla stages an exhibition of British contemporary art by 13

30 | June 2022 • Wanted in Rome

globally renowned artists with strong links to London. The 30 works on display were created by artists from various generations, all of whom have either lived or studied in London. The exhibited artists were born over five decades, between 1937 and 1978: David Hockney, Michael Craig-Martin, Sean Scully, Tony Cragg, Anish Kapoor, Julian Opie, Grayson Perry, Yinka Shonibare, Jake and Dinos Chapman, Damien Hirst, Mat Collishaw, Annie Morris and Idris Khan. The pieces on show were created using diverse techniques including ceramics, painting, sculpture, drawing, photography and video. Palazzo Cipolla, Via del Corso 320, www. fondazioneterzopilastrointernazionale. it.

JAGO

12 MARCH-3 JULY

Palazzo Bonaparte reopens after two years with an exhibition devoted to the young Italian sculptor Jago, born Jacopo Cardillo in 1987, who is known for his hyper-realistic sculptures and his huge following on social media. The show features 12 works, ranging from small carved river stones to the more recent monumental sculpture La Pietà and his high-profile Habemus Hominem bust of Pope Emeritus Benedict XVI. Piazza Venezia 5, www.mostrepalazzobonaparte.it.

CRAZY: MADNESS IN CONTEMPORARY ART 18 FEB-8 JAN

Chiostro del Bramante presents a large-scale exhibition project curated

by Danilo Eccher. The works of 21 international artists fill the venue’s internal and external spaces “because madness cannot have limits.” The exhibition, described as unpredictable and immersive, features 11 site-specific works displayed in rooms not normally open to visitors. The 21 artists include Petah Coyne, Ian Davenport, Janet Echelman, Lucio Fontana, Anne Hardy, Thomas Hirschhorn, Alfredo Pirri, Gianni Politi. Chiostro del Bramante, Arco della Pace 5, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

GOOD NEWS: WOMEN IN ARCHITECTURE 16 DEC-11 SEPT

Rome’s MAXXI documents the growing presence of women, collectives and studio couples in the architectural profession as it shakes off the 20th-century stereotype of the architect of the charismatic (male) grandmaster. The exhibition examines how new figures are infusing new forces into contemporary architecture, with a particular focus on the work of international studios directed or cochaired by female designers. MAXXI, which was designed by the celebrated Zaha Hadid, pays tribute in the show to architects including Charlotte Perriand, Elizabeth Dillerand and Frida Escobedo alongside a series of video interviews. Museo nazionale delle arte del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4/A, www.maxxi.art.

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Classical ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA

della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36.

Sala S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it.

JAKUB HRUSA

DANIEL HARDING – PAUL LEWIS

9-11 JUNE

Jakub Hrůša conducts the S. Cecilia Orchestra and Chorus performing Dvořák’s Symphony No. 9 From the New World and Janáček’s Glagolitic Mass. With soprano Kateřina Kněžíková, contralto Jarmila Balážová, tenor Richard Samek, bass Jozef Benci. Auditorium Parco

16-18 JUNE

Daniel Harding conducts the S. Cecilia Orchestra and Chorus with pianist Paul Lewis performing music by Grieg’s Piano Concerto and Ein Heldenleben by Strauss.

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P. de Coubertin 36. Sala S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it.

Daniel Harding conducts for Accademia S. Cecilia.

DANCE ROME TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA ROBERTO BOLLE AND FRIENDS 25-26 JULY

Annual favourite on the summer programme of Teatro dell’Opera di Roma which returns to its

OPERA ROME TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA ERNANI GIUSEPPE VERDI 3-11 JUNE

Conducted by Marco Armillato and directed by Hugo de Ana in association with the Sydney Opera House. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www. operaroma.it.

32 | June 2022 • Wanted in Rome

historic setting at the Baths of Caracalla after two years at the Circus Maximus. The event sees Roberto Bolle direct and perform alongside some of the biggest stars of the international dance world, in a tradition begun more than a decade ago. For details see Teatro dell’Opera website, www. operaroma.it.

Roberto Bolle at the Baths of Caracalla.

MASS BY LEONARD BERNSTEIN

Barnàcer directed by Valentina

Bernstein’s musical theatre work for singers, players and dancers was first performed at the Kennedy Centre in Washington DC in 1971 and was part of the inaugural programme. This is a new Teatro dell’Opera di Roma production.

Conducted by Diego Matheuz and directed by Damiano Michieletto.

Terme di Caracalla for the Teatro dell’Opera summer season.

the summer season at the Terme

CARMEN GEORGES BIZET

sometimes with dinner in various

This production of Bizet’s opera in four acts is conducted by Jordi

For details see Roma Opera Omnia,

1 JULY-5 JULY

15 JULY-4 AUG

Carrasco. It was first produced for di Caracalla in 2017. Baths of Caracalla for the Teatro dell’Opera summer season.

PALAZZA DORIA PAMPHILJ JUNE Throughout June there are concerts and recitals of arias and duets often accompanied with aperitifs and parts of Palazzo Doria Pamphilj. www.romaoperaomnia.com

Wanted in Rome • June 2022 | 33

Theatre SHAKESPEARE AT THE GLOBE 10 JUNE-16 OCT

Italian composer Nicola Piovani has been named the new artistic director of Rome’s Globe Theatre in Villa Borghese, succeeding the late Gigi Proietti who directed its annual Shakespearean festival for 17 years. Piovani is best known internationally for winning the 1999 Best Original Dramatic

Score Oscar for the music in the Roberto Benigni film La Vita è bella. The 2022 programme of the Shakespearean festival, now in its 19th edition, includes Italianlanguage productions of Love’s Labour’s Lost (10-19 June), The Merry Wives of Windsor (24 June10 July), The Comedy of Errors (15-31 July), A Midsummer Night’s Dream (3-14 Aug), and Macbeth (2-25 Sept). Last year the Globe Theatre was renamed after Proietti, the much-loved actor, director and comedian who died in November 2020 on his 80th birthday. The decision was taken in collaboration

with the Silvano Toti Foundation, which financed the theatre’s construction in 2003, with the building now titled the Gigi Proietti Globe Theatre Silvano Toti. Built in just three months, the theatre was the result of an idea by Proietti who directed and performed in the festival every year until his death.

The building is a full-scale timber reproduction of Shakespeare’s Globe, copied from the original oak and thatch designs, almost identical to the one that stands on London’s South Bank. For programme and ticket information see website, www.globetheatreroma.com.

LIVE MUSIC ROCK IN ROMA 10 JUNE-30 JULY

Rock in Roma returns this summer after a two-year hiatus due to covid with more than 40 concerts in three locations: Ippodromo delle Capannelle, Auditorium Parco della Musica, and the Circus Maximus where Måneskin will perform a sold-out show on 9 July.

This year’s festival offers a multigenre programme with a mix of Italian and international artists, both established and emerging.

The line-up includes Achille Lauro,

Måneskin will perform a sold-out show at the Circus Maximus for Rock in Roma.

Ariete, Blanco, Caparezza, Carl Brave, Cigarettes After Sex, Guè,

Litfiba, Chemical Brothers, Herbie Hancock and Skunk Anansie. For details see www.rockinroma.com.

ROME SUMMER FEST 10 JUNE-26 SEPT

Paolo Nutini is part of the Rome Summer Fest line-up.

34 | June 2022 • Wanted in Rome

The Auditorium Parco della Musica hosts Rome Summer Fest which returns with a varied programme of Italian and international acts.

Now in its 20th year, the festival hosts big-name Italian artists such as Paolo Conte and Elisa alongside world-famous bands including Pixies, Deep Purple, Simple Minds, Kasabian, The Smile with Thom Yorke, and solo artists including Paolo Nutini, Ben Harper, Gregory Porter, Rufus Wainwright and Patti Smith. For full details see www. auditorium.com.

lassical lassical

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city.

The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city.

There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums.

Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it.

All www.filarmonicaromana.org.

The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All

concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica.

Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza,

Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone 32a, RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome.

often concerts, festivals and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and7 the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year.

There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades

by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards.

Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com 5036 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome | May 2022 • Wanted in Rome

MUSIC MUSIC THEATR THEATRE CINEMA CINEMA VENUES VENUES

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MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

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inema inema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals.

See Wantedshow in Rome website for The following cinemas movies in English weekly updates. or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for Adriano, Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 weeklyPiazza updates.

Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel.

Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 0686391361 Barberini, Piazza BarberiniMastroianni 24-26, 1, tel.

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello 0686391361 tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 068553485 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel.

Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel.

068553485 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel.

Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel.

Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel.

Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 066861068 Odeon, Piazza Stefano 22, tel.

Nuovo Sacher, LargoJacini Ascianghi 1, 0686391361 tel. 065818116

Space Moderno, Piazza della 44, tel.

Odeon, Piazza Stefano JaciniRepubblica 22, tel. 0686391361 06892111 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel.

Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec06892111 chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

dd p p 38

Wanted in Rome | December 2017

t

Teatro 06684000314, ww T Teatro Belli, 06684000314, ww ww T Teatro ww Brancaccio, ww T Teatro ww Ghione, ww T Teatro ww 06684000311, ww T 06684000311, ww

GIUSEPPE VERDI

Ernani TEATRO COSTANZI JUNE 3 - 11

CONDUCTOR MARCO ARMILIATO DIRECTOR, SET AND COSTUME DESIGNER HUGO DE ANA TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA ORCHESTRA AND CHORUS

Ettore Festa, HaunagDesign - IIllustration by Gianluigi Toccafondo

A TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA PRODUCTION IN COPRODUCTION WITH SYDNEY OPERA HOUSE

operaroma.it

FOUNDERS

MAIN SPONSOR

PRIVATE SHAREHOLDERS

PATRONS

ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

op

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel.

0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel.

065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel.

Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,

t

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel.

06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel.

06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel.

Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel.

06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net 50 | Jan 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel.

0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel.

14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel.

065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel.

PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel.

0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel.

Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel.

06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel.

Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel.

0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel.

Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel.

063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Wanted in2018 Rome • May 2022 | 39 51 | Oct • Wanted in Rome

WANTED junior inROME Celebrating 50 years of student life at The New School Rome The New School Rome is a private, international school for pupils aged 3-18 offering the English National Curriculum.

On 28 June The New School Rome celebrates its 50th anniversary. The New School was founded in 1972 by a group of parents and teachers who wanted to create a school where academic excellence would be combined with attention to the individual and the development of personal and social responsibility.

My classmates and I, along with our teacher Anna, have worked over the past six months to create a very unique piece of verbatim style theatre to celebrate our school’s 50th anniversary. Verbatim theatre is a form of documentary theatre which is based on the spoken words of real people. Strictly speaking, verbatim theatre-makers use real people's words exclusively. The dialogue for the drama script is taken from recorded or written interviews; the words are never changed and are included into the piece of theatre exactly as they were recorded. We interviewed parents, teachers, former pupils and a wide range of students from Early Years, Junior to Senior School, while attempting to capture everyone’s thoughts and feelings about our school. Our piece commemorates former pupils and the school's unique history, while most importantly giving a voice to current students and staff. Sofia De Vergottini in year 9 stated: “throughout the making of the play we have bonded with our school, its history and its members.” Personally, throughout the production of the play I have learned how important it is to be resilient, believe in yourself and to always help someone in need if you have the opportunity. I think that from this experience we have all learned what key ideals were that established our school.

Virginia Palermo Murino commented on this experience stating: ''During the process of creating the play, the class started to become a team, which all had the same goal to make this performance memorable. We have had an insight in the school's past, and all of us have learned many things that without this project we wouldn't have known. I hope that this play will be able to emphasise how amazing this school really is.”

Pierpaolo Franceschini, Year 9.

40 | June 2022 • Wanted in Rome

It was the 10th anniversary of the Mediterranean Cup this year and I am glad to say we have made it every year since its inception. We got to the finals with our middle school team 10 years ago, the youngest team from the smallest school there, and have attended the U18 edition ever since. We have made it to the finals a few times and won the title twice. This year was our year, after two seasons spoilt by the pandemic, the kids were so eager, there was no stopping them. So we won the cup this year, still the smallest school with the youngest team there. If you wonder how, I will tell you our secret, it's simply called the New School magic. I trust my players and their captain, they are in charge and make all the decisions. I am here to support them, they know I believe in them.

Rosine is a French teacher and Football coach.

I am the youngest of three brothers who have all attended The New School Rome since Nursery. As funny as it may sound, my parents chose The New School after my brother came home from school with his face and t-shirt covered in paint and mud!

This then led to us all doing all of our academic studies at The New School, which makes me doubt that my parents chose the school for this sole reason.

Almost every day in primary I would stay after school to play football or other games with my friends. I loved taking part in numerous football tournaments and also enjoyed being a member of many other clubs the school offered, such as Martial Arts and Breakdancing. I loved the Christmas show and the Year 6 Shakespeare play, where I had so much fun acting. I went on so many trips to places such as: Paris, Genoa, Florence, Croatia and even a skiing trip in Folgaria. It was also exciting to attend events such as the May Fair and the school Christmas Dinner, where teachers and students eat pizza

and sing karaoke all together!

It took me some time to realise my school was quite unique. Talking to friends out of school, I began to realise that the social dynamics in my school are very different to those in most schools – I remember Adam, our Year 6 teacher playing football with us during breaks in his free time. I love the friendly, yet professional, relationship there is between students and teachers at The New School. Every teacher has made me love their subject and sparked curiosity in me. I also value the attention we get inside and outside the classroom from teachers who are always available and helpful.

As my parents realised, the sense of family is the best quality this school has by far and I want other students to have the same experience I had in this school.

Alessandro Angela is studying A Levels in Maths, Further Maths, Physics and Italian and is planning to study Aerospace Engineering in the UK. “My favourite way to create art is by capturing memories; candid stills of my friends, of people I see around me, and of features, colours and perspectives that instantly catch my eye, imagining it in a frame of a sketchbook or a canvas. For this project, my aim was to portray my life through my friends and other people around me. I was able to use photographs that I took as reference of children from The New School. After many years at this friendly school where everyone is always open and available to help each other, it has become enjoyable to catch moments where anyone, from the early years to the seniors, could inspire me and to have these paintings to remind me in future of the meaningful time spent here."

Angelica Fiore is studying A Levels in Art, English Literature, French and Italian and is going to study Graphic Design at the European Institute of Design in Milan. ç Illustration by Angelica Fiore

The New School Rome, Via della Camilluccia 669, tel. 063294269, www.newschoolrome.com.

WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR: For young writers and artists Wanted in Rome accepts creative contributions from students in all international schools in Rome. Articles on topics related to either the student’s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 1,000 words and we also accept illustrations.

Teachers who would like to propose a project can contact editorial@wantedinrome.com.

Wanted in Rome • June 2022 | 41

42 | May 2022 • Wanted in Rome

agorski

By Kate Z

TONNARELLI CACIO E PEPE Cacio e pepe is a classic Roman pasta tradition which, until recently, was somewhat unknown outside of Italy. However, the last couple of years have seen the international food scene embrace this simple dish which was born from humble necessity, giving it a more glamorous lease of life. The dish originated in the Lazio countryside where shepherds would pack food to carry with them on the long journeys to move their flocks. Alongside cured meat products they would also take chunks of the local aged sheep milk cheese (which did not need refrigeration), handmade flour and water pasta that could be eaten dried for carbohydrates, and black pepper to stimulate warmth. These three ingredients eventually involved into the pasta dish we know and love, and the origins underline once and for all that there is no place for butter or oil in the authentic recipe.

Nowadays cacio e pepe is usually served with a long, square-cut, fresh egg pasta called tonnarelli which gives an added richness to the dish and speeds up cooking time, but normal dried spaghetti can also be used. As with most seemingly easy recipes, the trick is in the timing and testing the perfect ratio of ingredients. Sadly, overcooking and not enough mixing will often result in a sticky, unpleasant final dish rather than the silky, creamy cheese sauce with a punch of pepper which constitutes the perfect result. The recipe below utilises a little-known trick of heating the pepper in a pan of water to infuse the flavour before finishing the cooking of the pasta in the peppery liquid. Extra starchy cooking water continuous mixing of the cheese should ensure the right consistency but, as any Roman will tell you, practice makes perfect.

Ingredients Serves 2 250g fresh tonnarelli 70g pecorino romano, finely grated 190ml cold water 26 twists freshly ground black pepper

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil.

In a separate frying pan, heat 190ml of cold water and twist in the black pepper with a pepper mill. Cook on a medium heat until it just begins to simmer.

Cook the tonnarelli in the saucepan of boiling water as per the packet instructions but drain one minute before the end of the suggested cooking time, keeping aside the starchy pasta water.

Place the tonnarelli in the frying pan of peppery water and cook for the final minute, stirring well. Gradually add in 1-2 cups of the starchy pasta water as you go.

When the pasta is al dente remove the pan from the heat and quickly add the pecorino, stirring immediately. Toss the pan for 30 seconds, building up the creamy sauce. If the mixture is too dry add a little more cooking water and just keep stirring.

Serve immediately with an extra sprinkling of pecorino romano and another good crack of black pepper.

The best aperitivo in Flaminio Flaminio, a neighbourhood only a stone’s throw from the city centre, is now home to a whole host of cocktail and aperitivo bars. You can take part in the ‘spritzmania’ or opt for a more traditional cocktail – there’s something for everyone. Food-wise you’ll find fresh fish, international cuisine, or even the finest cheese and charcuterie boards. We’ve selected five of the best bars for pre- or post-dinner, from new openings to old favourites.

ENOTECA MOSTÒ Run by passionate and skilled sommelier Ciro Borriello, at Enoteca Mostò you’ll be advised on the perfect wine to suit your palate, with a brilliant selection of natural and French wines in particular. As for the food, there isn't a huge choice but what is on offer is fantastic quality.

Aperitivo begins from 18.30 and you can choose a glass of either Franciacorta Brut Vezzoli (€7) or Particella 928 Cantina del Barone (€8) accompanied by a plate of tapas (€6) and artisan sausage. You can also order from the main menu and we highly recommend the desserts: millefeuille (€7) and white chocolate cheesecake with almond, mango and lime crumble (€7). Mon closed.

APOTECA Facing on to Piazza Melozzo da Forlì, Apoteca is the perfect spot for an aperitivo pre-theatre or before heading to the stadium. There are seats at the bar where you can admire the large selection of craft beers. If you don’t fancy a beer there are also cocktails, mocktails and wine served by the glass. At aperitivo hour you can choose from a charcuterie (€10) or cheese board (€12), or even meat balls (€7), or the apotecaburger (€14).

Apoteca serves cocktails both pre and post dinner.

METROPOLITA One of the most recent bar openings in Flamminio, Metropolita is located right in front of the Ponte della Musica and is open from 18.00 until 02.00 (or until 17.00 on Sunday). You can enjoy either a cocktail or a glass of

wine accompanied by a selection of antipasti from the kitchen. The barmen serve both cocktails from all over the world, like the London Tequila (€11), as well as the usual classics (from €6-8). If you feel like something else to eat there’s also hummus served with pane carasau (Sardinian flat bread) (€6) or a platter of Italian and French cheeses (€18). The Metropolita can seat 65 people over its three floors. Open every day except Mondays.

DILISCANDO This is the new fish restaurant in the Flaminio neighbourhood. The name, which means ‘filleting’, and the interiors create a seaside feel. Every day from 18.00 you can enjoy a glass of wine (from €5) and try some delicious fish dishes. On Thursdays the chef prepares five tasting plates to accompany five of the wines, and each week the selection is different.

TREE BAR Located in the garden of Piazzale Manila, Tree Bar is a very popular place, especially with young people. Live music, competitions and the huge seating area outside make it a fun place to hang out. On Mondays there is an aperitivo buffet. You can also enjoy wine, beer or a cocktail with a cheese or meat board (€12 or €10) and then if you’re still peckish choose the dish of the day or from the main menu. We also highly recommend their homemade desserts (from €6-8) and their selection of spirits. Open daily from 18.30 to 01.30.

www.puntarellarossa.it

Apoteca, Piazza Melozzo da Forlì 15, tel. 3662511733.

Metropolita, Piazza Gentile da Fabbriano 2, tel. 063240249.

Diliscando, Viale del Vignola 7, tel. 0689131376.

Tree bar, Via Flaminia 226, tel. 0632652754.

Indirizzi

Enoteca Mostò, Viale Pinturicchio 32, tel. 3922579616.

Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com

Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

46 | May 2022 • Wanted in Rome

Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

48 | June 2022 • Wanted in Rome

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers • • • • • • •

Ambulance tel. 118 Carabinieri tel. 112 Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 Fire brigade tel. 115 Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 Police tel. 113 Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355