Wanted in Rome - March 2023

EDITORIALS MISCELLANY WHAT'S ON

4. ROME UNVEILS BIG PLANS FOR JUBILEE 2025

Andy Devane

6. IRANIANS IN ROME FIGHT FOR REGIME CHANGE FROM AFAR

Charles Seymour

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Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 28/02/2023

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CONTENTS

4 ROME UNVEILS BIG PLANS FOR JUBILEE 2025

24 EXHIBITIONS

28 opera

6 IRANIANS IN ROME FIGHT FOR REGIME CHANGE FROM AFAR

ROME UNVEILS BIG PLANS FOR JUBILEE 2025

MAJOR WORKS GET UNDERWAY IN ROME TO WELCOME PILGRIMS OF HOPE

Andy Devane

Rome has unveiled dozens of major infrastructural projects to be carried out ahead of the Vatican's Jubilee Year 2025 when millions of pilgrims are set to arrive in the Italian capital.

The plan, overseen by a committee of Vatican and municipal authorities, is aimed at improving the city's services ahead of the Jubilee whose theme is “Pilgrims of Hope”.

The city's mayor Roberto Gualtieri, who is also Italy's extraordinary commissioner for the Jubilee, presented the Giubileo 2025 plans to Pope Francis in mid January.

The Jubilee works are designed to offer the “best possible welcome” to the tens of millions of

pilgrims who will travel to Rome and at the same time make the city “more accessible, sustainable and inclusive”, reports Vatican News.

The 87 "essential" projects will cost €2.3 billion, allocated as part of a government decree to allow the public works to get underway in time for the major religious event.

However the total funding for the Jubilee projects is set to rise to €4 billion with the passing of a second government decree, according to Avvenire, the newspaper of the Italian bishops' conference.

Jubilee plans

The projects, set to be completed by December

Pope Francis greets pilgrims in St Peter's Square.

Photo: Riccardo De Luca - Update / Shutterstock.com.

2024, include the construction of two new underground car parks, one at Piazza Risorgimento and the other near Castel S. Angelo.

There will be new pedestrian corridors and underpasses in the Vatican area, including between Castel S. Angelo and Piazza Pia at the start of Via della Conciliazione leading to St Peter's.

Green areas and streets around the Vatican will be redeveloped, including Via Ottaviano, and there will be additional bike paths created.

Rome's central Termini station and the surrounding area will get a facelift, as will the S. Pietro train station, with major investments in upgrading the city's metro and bus lines, including the railway links to Fiumicino airport.

Security and surveillance will also be stepped up around Termini amid increased reports of violent crime in recent months, as well as along the river Tiber.

Other maintenance and infrastructure works to be carried out include resurfacing roads and pavements, improving street lighting and enhancing public toilet facilities.

"Rome is ready to seize this exceptional opportunity", said Gualtieri who prior to his election a year and a half ago identified Jubilee preparations as a top priority along with the capital's bid to host Expo 2030.

"Rome and the whole of Italy are preparing to celebrate an event that is inextricably linked to the identity of the Eternal City itself, which is the capital of Christianity and hosts the Vatican City State", said premier Giorgia Meloni.

"There's lots of work to do" – Meloni acknowledged – "but we will guarantee all the collaboration and effort needed, together with the Holy See and the city of Rome, to make sure that the capital and the nation are ready to host millions of pilgrims from all over the world".

Traditionally a jubilee year results in a major influx of visitors to Rome, requiring the city, the Catholic Church and the Lazio region to pool resources, with priorities including health, transport, security, civil protection, tourism and hospitality.

Commentators suggest that the infrastructure and enhanced services being put in place ahead of Jubilee Year 2025 could prove pivotal in helping Rome win its bid to host Expo 2030.

History of Jubilee Years

The first jubilee, called a Holy Year, was instituted by Pope Boniface VIII in 1300 and was initially to be held every 100 years.

In 1490 Pope Paul II decided that jubilees would be observed every 25 years, allowing each person to experience one in their lifetime.

The jubilee years are designed as a "special year of grace, in which the Church offers the faithful the possibility of obtaining a plenary indulgence", according to Vatican News.

The last “ordinary” jubilee was in 2000, celebrated by Pope John Paul II, when an estimated 25 million pilgrims flocked to Rome.

In the 16th century the Church began the custom of holding “extraordinary” jubilees, outside the 25-year rotation, the last of which was the Year of Mercy in 2015, at the surprise behest of Pope Francis.

Traditionally the jubilee begins just before Christmas and ends on the Epiphany of the following year, with the doors remaining open until the end of the holy year.

The pope marks the jubilee by opening the Holy Doors at St Peter's as well as the other papal basilicas of S. Giovanni in Laterano, S. Paolo fuori le Mura and S. Maria Maggiore.

The Jubilee 2025, described as a year of “hope and trust” for a world devastated by wars, the covid pandemic and the climate crisis, will be the 27th ordinary jubilee year of the Catholic Church.

Pilgrims going through security to enter St Peter's Basilica. Photo: Kristi Blokhin / Shutterstock.com.

IRANIANS IN ROME FIGHT FOR REGIME CHANGE FROM AFAR

IRANIAN

DIASPORA IN ROME MOBILISES AGAINST REGIME

On a Saturday afternoon in late January, a group of plain-clothes officers stand guard in front of the Iranian embassy's high wrought iron gates on Via Nomentana in north-east Rome. Across the road, dozens of pro-democracy activists, a mix of Iranians and Italians, equipped with flags and megaphones, gather behind a

large banner with the words "Women. Life. Freedom."

This is the slogan that has become the rallying cry for the protest movement in Iran, which ignited in mid-September after the murder of the Kurdish woman Mahsa Amini in police custody.

Charles Seymour

Iranians in Rome protest against the regime. Photo ANSA.

Rights

Five months after the uprising began, revolutionary sentiment is still coursing through cities and towns of Iran. In response, the Iranian diaspora in Rome is continuing to mobilise to support the protests with coordinated actions across the capital. The aim is to keep the spotlight on Iran and to raise the alarm about the regime’s increasingly violent crackdown.

“With everything that is still going on on the streets of Iran, it’s impossible to just stay at home,” said Afsanè Mitus, an Iranian artist living in Rome, who is attending the protest. After leaving Tehran in the mid1990s to pursue her artistic career, she was galvanised into action last autumn after watching young women march through the streets of Iran for their rights. “I’ve regained my patriotism,” she said.

Mitus is one of around 14,000 Iranians living in Italy. Compared to other European countries, like Germany, France and the UK, the diaspora population in Italy is relatively small. However, using social media platforms like Instagram to connect and share information, Iranian immigrants in Italy have been making their voices heard.

Together with organisations, like the left-wing party Partito Radicale, Iranian immigrants have organised demonstrations in front of the Iranian embassy in Rome almost every weekend in January and February.

On 8 January, hundreds of anti-regime demonstrators marched through Rome’s city centre. On 4 February, about 60 protesters gathered in Piazza dei SS. Apostoli in memory of Mohammad Moradi, an Iranian student living in the French city of Lyon who threw himself into the Rhône river in protest against the widespread suppression of the uprising in Iran.

In January the newspaper La Stampa ran a petition in support of freedom in Iran, which was signed by more than 300,000 people and was handed over to staff at the Iranian embassy.

It's the effort like this of Iranians outside the country that is helping to make the movement in Iran different to earlier ones.

Across Europe, Iranian exiles have been tireless on the protesters’ behalf. In October 80,000 Iranian expatriates convened in Berlin demanding the abolition of the Islamic Republic. Similar protests have taken place in the US and Canada. Strikingly, according to a leaked recording of a meeting attended by Iranian intelligence officials, published by BBC Persian, of 92 million social media posts generated in the aftermath of Mahsa Amini’s death, 60 per cent came from abroad.

Yet speaking out against Iran – even from the relative safety of Italy – can come with its own risks. The Islamic Republic has a long and well-documented policy of using violence as a tool of political repression –even against dissidents who live abroad.

“I am a little scared about speaking out. But I’ve told myself I won't go back to Tehran until the revolution happens,” said Fardokht Kashani, 21, an Iranian student at La Sapienza University in Rome. Kashani says her vocal opposition to the regime's hard-line leaders could get her arrested for spreading false information, punished and even imprisoned once she returns home. She has chosen to keep her family, who live in Tehran, in the dark about her activism so as not to worry them.

Despite the risks, Kashani has continued to uplift the voice of her fellow Iranians here since September. She has made prodemocracy speeches at university, attended demonstrations, including in Budapest, and used her social media to share news and information about what’s happening in Iran

Donna, vita, libertà demonstration in front of the Iranian embassy in Rome. Photo Charles Seymour.

Rights

After moving to Italy as a political exile in the early 1980s, she has spent decades cultivating close contacts with senior politicians, lobbying Italian media, as well as international organisations like the UN in Geneva and EU in Brussels, for a tougher stance on Iran’s theocratic regime. Recently, she has been helping to get Iran's violent Revolutionary Guards blacklisted on the EU terror list.

to those outside of the country. “My role is to spread awareness”, she said, “I feel very much part of the movement... even from Italy.”

Kashani’s activism is courageous. It's the sort of courage that has made Iranian womenwho have been leading the movement in Iran - a symbol of resistance around the world.

Across town, another sort of protest is taking place in Piazzale Flaminio. Amid the swarms of camera-toting tourists, about 40 demonstrators are placing red roses in front of pictures depicting the faces of those who have been killed by the regime in recent months. This vigil has been organised by a group known as Mujahideen-e-Khalq (MEK) or People's Mujahideen, a part of the National Council of Resistance of Iran.

The group, which played a decisive role in toppling the Shah, has been committed to overthrowing the Islamic republic for a generation. Nevertheless, the group remains controversial in Iran for its cult-like following and for its support for Hussein in the Iran-Iraq War of the 1980s.

Shahrzad Sholeh, an activist attending the event, is the president of the Iranian Democratic Women's Association in Italy, an umbrella organisation of the People's Mujahideen. She said she has been organising protests against Iran’s regime in Italy for more than 40 years.

Sholeh, like many others in the diaspora, has been feeling the psychological toll of the current resistance but she is optimistic about the future. “It is very painful to see the pictures and to see the girls and boys who were being killed. But at the same time we are getting to a point where the Iranian people are finally getting closer to freedom,” she said.

Discussions about a future, post-Islamic Republic of Iran reveal some disunity among the opposition groups operating in Italy. Sholeh says the People's Mujahideen no longer join other anti-government protesters in Rome, choosing instead to have their own events. “Some protesters don’t want to be associated with us even though we have the same objectives,” she said.

Conscious of the People's Mujahideen's chequered past, it’s true that some Iranians are distrustful of the group’s political ambitions in Iran, fearing that they will grab power for themselves once the regime falls. In response, members of the People's Mujahideen claim that such narratives have been planted by the Islamic Republic as part of a tactic to discredit the group and spread fear that if the regime falls, chaos will follow.

Nevertheless, for the time being most Iranians in Italy are united in their view that nothing can be worse than the current regime and are prepared to keep on fighting for change.

Back across town in front of the Iranian embassy, Mitus is about to lead an antiregime chant with a megaphone. “The movement is like a fire,” she said, “every person needs to add a log to keep it burning.”

Vigil by the Mujahideen-e-Khalq (MEK) in Piazzale Flaminio. Photo Charles Seymour.

CELEBRATING 50 YEARS OF AMERICAN EDUCATION IN ITALY

GUIDE TO ROME'S UNDERGROUND SITES

Rome has a myriad of underground sites in the centre and in the suburbs, from catacombs and church crypts to ancient Roman villas and pagan temples. Many of these sites are not open to the public on a regular basis. For updated news and visiting information see websites www.sotterraneidiroma.it, www.romasotterranea.it and www.catacombeditalia.va.

Mithraeum in Circo Massimo

Piazza Bocca della Verità 16, for booking info tel. 060608. Guided visits for groups only. This five-room mithraeum, at the Bocca della Verità end of Circo Massimo, is dedicated to the Roman deity Mithras. It dates to the fourth century but was only rediscovered in 1931.

Palazzo Valentini

Via Foro Traiano 85 (Piazza Venezia), tel. 0622761280, www.palazzovalentini.it.

The remains of ancient Roman houses are on permanent display below Palazzo Valentini, just off Piazza Venezia. 09.30-18.30. Tues closed.

Stadium of Domitian

Via di Tor Sanguigna 3, tel. 0668805311, www.stadiodomiziano.com.

The remains of the Domiziano Stadium, a Unesco World Heritage Site commissioned around AD 80 by Emperor Domitianus, are located about 4.5m under Piazza Navona. Daily 10.00-19.00, Sat 10.00-20.00. Audio guide available.

Terme di Caracalla

Viale delle Terme di Caracalla 52, www.coopculture.it.

These Roman baths have a maze of underground areas including a gymnasium, changing rooms, frigidarium, tepidarium and caldarium. Open daily, Mon half day. For varying opening times see website.

Vatican scavi

St Peter's Basilica, www.scavi.va.

This Imperial-era necropolis contains the tomb of St Peter. Only private visits on request. Tour groups are composed of approximately 12 people, according to language. For information see website or go to excavations office to the left of the Bernini colonnade in St Peter’s Square. Mon-Fri 09.00-18.00, Sat 09.00-17.00.

Catecombs of Priscilla

Via Salaria 430, tel. 0686206272.

Situated near the Villa Ada park, these catacombs comprise a series of labyrinthine tunnels and burial chambers excavated between the second and fifth centuries. 08.30-12.00, 14.30-17.00. Closed Mon and Aug.

Catacombs of S. Sebastiano

Via Appia Antica 136, tel. 067850350.

From the first century this maze of tunnels and caves was used extensively to inter pagans and Christians, including the martyrs Sebastian and Eutychius. 10.00-17.00. Closed Sun and 1-28 Dec.

Church of S. Crisogono

Piazza Sidney Sonnino 44, (Viale Trastevere), tel. 065810076. Underground site including an early Christian church and a third-century Roman house. Mon-Sat 07.30-11.30, 16.00-19.00. Sun 08.00-13.00, 16.00-19.00. Not possible to visit excavations during celebration of Mass.

The skulls in the Capuchin crypt on Via Veneto.

Church of S. Lorenzo in Lucina

Via in Lucina 16, tel. 066871494, www.060608.it. This underground site was originally thought to have been a Roman house for early Christian worship but recent research indicates that it may have been a pre-Christian temple to Giunone Lucina, the goddess of pregnant women. Tours last Saturday of the month at 16.15.

Church of S. Nicola in Carcere

Via del Teatro di Marcello 46, tel. 0668892781, www.sotterraneidiroma.it.

The remains of three Republican-era temples, cells and alleys under the altar were once part of the bustling Forum Boarium complex, ancient Rome's cattle market. 10.00-17.00. Wed closed.

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, 0639967700, www.coopculture.it. Built over the ancient Roman Theatre of Balbus, this partially-underground museum is dedicated to urban archaeology and the Middle Ages. Tues-Sun 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Domus Aurea

Viale della Domus Aurea 1, www.coopculture.it.

Emperor Nero's golden palace was built after the great fire of Rome in 64 AD on a sprawling site in the Colle Oppio area. Guided tours in English Sat-Sun 09.00-16.45. Virtual reality tours Sat-Sun 09.00-18.15 (last admission 17.00).

Hadrian’s Crypt (Bocca della Verità)

Piazza Bocca della Verità 18.

Under the altar in the church of S. Maria in Cosmedin there is a small eighth-century crypt built to hold relics extracted from the catacombs by Pope Hadrian I. Mon-Sat 10.00-14.00, 15.00-17.30, Sun 12.00-17.30.

Jewish catacombs

Via Nomentana 70 and Via Appia Pignatelli 4. The are six Jewish catacombs in Rome but not all are accessible. The Villa Torlonia catacombs, on Via Nomentana 70, are the largest and best known, while the Vigna Randanini catacombs,

on Via Appia Pignatelli 4, opened to the public for the first time in 2016. For up-to-date visiting information see website, www.catacombsociety.org/jewish-catacombs/.

Mithraeum in Circo Massimo

Piazza Bocca della Verità 16, tel. 060608.

Guided visits for groups only. This five-room mithraeum, at the Bocca della Verità end of Circo Massimo, is dedicated to the Roman deity Mithras. It dates to the fourth century but was only rediscovered in 1931.

Palazzo Valentini

Via Foro Traiano 85 (Piazza Venezia), tel. 0622761280, www.palazzovalentini.it.

The remains of ancient Roman houses are on permanent display below Palazzo Valentini, just off Piazza Venezia. 09.30-18.30. Tues closed.

Stadium of Domitian

Via di Tor Sanguigna 3, tel. 0668805311, www.stadiodomiziano.com.

The remains of the Domiziano Stadium, a Unesco World Heritage Site commissioned around AD 80 by Emperor Domitianus, are located about 4.5m under Piazza Navona. Daily 10.00-19.00, Sat 10.00-20.00. Audio guide available.

Terme di Caracalla

Viale delle Terme di Caracalla 52, www.coopculture.it.

These Roman baths have a maze of underground areas including a gymnasium, changing rooms, frigidarium, tepidarium and caldarium. Open daily, Mon half day. For varying opening times see website.

Vatican scavi

St Peter's Basilica, www.scavi.va.

This Imperial-era necropolis contains the tomb of St Peter. Only private visits on request. Tour groups are composed of approximately 12 people, according to language. For information see website or go to excavations office to the left of the Bernini colonnade in St Peter’s Square. Mon-Fri 09.00-18.00, Sat 09.00-17.00.

The mithraeum at S. Clemente.

ARTandSEEK

English-language cultural workshops and visits to museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforkids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandseekforkids.com.

Bioparco

Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and o ers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it.

Bowling Silvestri

is sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.

ere are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com.

Casa del Parco

Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com.

Casina di Ra aello

Play centre in Villa Borghese o ering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Ra aello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadira aello.it.

UK NATIONAL SETTLED IN ITALY BEFORE 1

JANUARY 2021?

Make sure your residency in Italy is easily recognised. Request your new Carta di Soggiorno Elettronica from your local Questura as soon as possible. And don’t get confused…it isn’t the same thing as your electronic ID card.

Find out more on gov.uk/livinginitaly

Cinecittà World

is 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special e ects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it.

Climbing

Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, urs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473.

Explora

e 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it.

Go-karting

Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it.

Gymboree

is children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, o ering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it.

Hortis Urbis

Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it.

Il Nido

Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.

Luneur

Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it.

Rainbow Magicland

e 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it.

Time Elevator

A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. e time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it.

Zoomarine is amusement and aquatic park outside Rome o ers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

ROME'S MAJOR MUSEUMS

IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS DETAILS. IN SOME CASES RESERVATIONS ARE REQUIRED.

VATICAN MUSEUMS

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00.

Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS

Baths of Diocletian

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30.

Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna

Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

CITY MUSEUMS

Centrale Montemartini

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Capitoline Museums

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

MATTATOIO

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS

Casa di Goethe

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Chiostro Del Bramante

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

Galleria Colonna

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, rst Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.

Museo storico della Liberazione

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Palazzo Merulana

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www. -maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Multidisciplinary venue devoted to visual art, design, architecture and fashion design at Palazzo Brancaccio. Via Merulana 248, tel. 0631709949, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Del ni, Via dei Del ni 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespeci c exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pasti cio Cerere

This non-pro t foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pasti ciocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created speci cally for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at a ordable prices by artists working in various elds. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo

Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works speci cally for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-pro le international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Galleria Russo

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.

Galleria Varsi

A dynamic gallery promoting street culture and contemporary art movements. Via di A ogalasino 34, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Gavin Brown's Enterprise

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of di erent generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

La Nuova Pesa

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino d’Arte Moderna

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Monitor

This contemporary art gallery o ers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Nero Gallery

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.

Nomas Foundation

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Plus Arte Puls

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

Sala 1

This internationally known non-pro t contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

The Gallery Apart

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

TraleVolte

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

Von Buren Contemporary

Rome-based gallery specialising in a ordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via Giulia 13, tel. 3351633518, www.vonburencontemporary.com.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria o ers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

where to go in Rome

WHAT’S ON

Kusama Yayoi, Zucca, 1988. L'Iris e la Zucca at the Istituto Giapponese di Cultura. See page 24.

EXHIBITIONS

MICHELANGELO PISTOLETTO: INFINITY

18 MARCH-15 OCT

Chiostro del Bramanate hosts an exhibition dedicated to Michelangelo Pistoletto, one of the main representatives of the Italian Arte Povera movement. The show will serve as a retrospective spanning the 60-year career of the Italian painter and action artist who turns 90 this year. Infinity follows the successful run of collective shows Love, Enjoy, Dream and Crazy, and will once again be curated by Danilo Eccher who describes it as “a group exhibition by a single artist”. As suggested by its title, the exhibition proposes “an infinite number of ways of making art, an infinite number of ways of seeing, of changing perspective, of reading

reality”, according to Chiostro del Bramante. Infinity will comprise around 50 works and four large site-specific installations, dating

from 1966 to 2023, including his celebrated Venere degli Stracci (Venus of the rags) and his mirror paintings. Chiostro del Bramante, Arco della Pace 5, www.chiostrodelbramante. it.

THE IRIS AND THE PUMPKIN

26 JAN-21 APRIL

The Japanese Cultural Institute celebrates its 60th anniversary in Rome with an exhibition of 24 works by some of Japan’s most celebrated artists. The exhibition is centred around two works – Iris by Yamaguchi Hōshun and Pumpkin by Kusama Yayoi – illustrating the cultural activity of the institute over the past six decades. Accompanied by archive photographs and documents, the show features works by artists including Munakata Shikō, Ikeda Masuo, Dōmoto Inshō, Yokoo Tadanori, Lee U Fan, Teshigahara Sōfu and Kodama Kibō. Free entry, for visiting details see website. Istituto Giapponese di Cultura, Via Antonio Gramsci 74, www.jfroma.it.

ROMA SILENZIOSA BELLEZZA

20 JAN-31

MARCH

The Vittoriano complex in Piazza Venezia hosts a free, multimedia exhibition recalling the “silent beauty” of the Eternal City during Italy’s covid lockdown in 2020.

Yamaguchi Hōshun, Iris, 1962. L'Iris e la Zucca at the Japanese Cultural Institute.

La Roma della Repubblica exhibition at Palazzo Caffarelli.

The exhibition of photographs by Moreno Maggi is accompanied by videomapping images projected onto the nearby Palazzo Venezia builing every evening from 18.30 to 23.30. The show can be visited in the Sala Zanardelli Mon-Fri 09.3019.30 (last entry 18.45).

LA ROMA DELLA REPUBBLICA

13 JAN-24 SEPT

The Capitoline Museums presents an exhibition of Roman artefacts from the fifth century BC to the middle of the first century BC. Through a series of archaeological themes and contexts, the exhibition in Palazzo Cafarelli brings to life the characters and transformations of Roman society over the course of five centuries, from the birth of the republic to the creation of the empire. The roughly 1,800 artefacts on display - made from terracotta, ceramics, bronze and stone - mostly

come from municipal collections and many of them are usually hidden away in storage. Piazzale Caffarelli, www.museocapitolini.org.

BOB DYLAN: RETROSPECTRUM

16 DEC-30 APRIL

Rome’s MAXXI presents an exhibition of visual art by veteran singer-songwriter Bob Dylan. Titled Retrospectrum, the show features Dylan’s oil paintings, acrylics, watercolours, ink drawings, pastel and charcoal works and a series of iron sculptures. Hailed as “the first European monographic exhibition to explore Dylan’s expansive visual oeuvre”, the show is divided into seven themed sections: Early Works, The Beaten Path, Drawn Blank, New Orleans, Ironworks, Mondo Scripto, and Deep Focus. Organisers say the exhibition marks Dylan’s life-long journey of creating visual art, documenting the transformation

of the sources and styles that have inspired and influenced him over the decades. MAXXI, Via Guido Reni 4, www.maxxi.art.

LIANA MIUCCIO: VISUAL DIARY

18 NOV-12 MARCH

Rome’s municipal modern art gallery hosts Visual Diary, an innovative visual and literary exhibition by Liana Miuccio. The exhibition continues the artist’s ongoing study of identity, memory and migration through the juxtaposition of photographs and videos with excerpts from Pulitzer Prize-winning writer Jhumpa Lahiri. Miuccio’s gaze, in dialogue with Lahiri’s excerpts, explores the search for identity and a sense of place through images of contemporary daily life. Organisers say the exhibition “invites visitors to participate in a collective experience that celebrates the quotidian life

Roma Silenziosa Bellezza exhibition at the Vittoriano.

which unites us all.” Galleria d’Arte Moderna, Via Francesco Crispi 24, www.galleriaartemodernaroma.it.

ROMA MEDIEVALE

21 OCT-16 APRIL

An exhibition at Palazzo Braschi offers the chance to “rediscover the lost face of Rome” between the sixth and 14th centuries, exploring the city’s pivotal role in Christian and Mediaeval Europe. Divided into nine sections, the exhibition aims to raise awareness of Rome in the Middle Ages, through its churches and palaces as well as daily life. There are more than 160 works on display including mosaics, frescoes and statues, from Roman public collections, churches and prestigious institutions such as the Vatican Museums.

VAN GOGH

8 OCT-26 MARCH

Palazzo Bonaparte in the centre of Rome stages a major show of Van Gogh paintings. The exhibition comprises 50 works including a celebrated self portrait of the artist from 1887, three years before his death. All the works on display are from the Kröller Müller Museum in Otterlo in the Netherlands. The exhibition makes reference to the places where Van Gogh stayed, with a particular focus on the artist’s time in Paris. Alongside his celebrated self portrait, the exhibition includes The sower (June 1888), The hospital garden in SaintRémy (1889), The Ravine (1889) and Sorrowing old man (1890). Located in Piazza Venezia, the 17th-century Palazzo Bonaparte is best known as the home of Maria Letizia Ramolino, Napoleon’s mother, who watched the world go by from the building’s green balcony from 1818 until her death in 1836. Piazza Venezia, www. mostrepalazzobonaparte.it.

during frantic works to bulldoze a path through the Velia or Velian hill – a spur between the Oppian Hill and the north side of the Palatine – as part of Mussolini’s plans to connect the Colosseum with Piazza Venezia. The rushed nature of the excavation meant the almost total loss of the garden of Villa Rivaldi, a Renaissance-era palace whose grounds stretched as far as the Basilica of Maxentius in the Roman Forum. The remains of the elephant are on display alongside archaeological finds, archive film footage and large watercolours of the Villa Rivaldi garden, painted before it was lost forever. Trajan’s Markets, on Via IV Novembre 94, www.mercatiditraiano.it.

Organisers say the exhibition will also examine the rich patronage of popes and cardinals, the activity of artists and workshops, and the city’s fascination as “an essential pilgrimage destination even for kings and emperors.” Museo di Roma Palazzo Braschi, Piazza Navona 2, www.museodiroma.it.

L’ELEFANTE E IL COLLE PERDUTO

8 APRIL-5 MARCH

An exhibition at Trajan’s Markets recalls how the skull and left tusk of an extinct elephant species were discovered during excavations to make way for Via dell’Impero in 1932.

The surprise discovery came about

Liana Miuccio at Galleria d'Arte Moderna.

Endless Highway by Bob Dylan at MAXXI.

Roma Medievale at Palazzo Braschi. Roman mosaic, S. Luca Evangelista, circa 1230, Vatican Museums.

CLASSICAL

ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA

MARIO BRUNELLO: PROGETTO BACH IV

1 MARCH

Violinist and cellist Mario Brunello plays, and explains, 12 masterpieces by Bach: Sala Sinopoli, 20.30.

JURAJ VALCUHA: WAR AND PEACE

2-4 MARCH

Juraj Valčuha conducts the S. Cecilia Orchestra and pianist Francesco Piemontesi performing Liszt Piano Concerto No. 2 and Shostakovich Symphony No. 8. Sala S. Cecilia, 2 March 19.30, 3 March 20.30, 4 March 18.00.

LEONIDAS KAVAKOS

8 MARCH

Violinist Leonidas Kavakos and pianist Enrico Pace perform Beethoven Sonata Op. 12 No. 1, Bartók Sonata No. 2, BB 85, SZ 76, Ravel Sonata in G No. 2 and Franck Sonata in A. Sala Sinopoli, 20.30.

THEATRE OF VOICES: PABLO HERAS-CASADO

9-11 MARCH

Pablo Heras-Casado conducts the S. Cecilia Orchestra and Chorus performing Berio Symphony, Stravinskij Symphony of Psalms and Stravinskij The firebird suite n. 2. Sala S. Cecilia, 9 March 19.30, 10 March 20.30, 11 March 18.00.

FAMILY CONCERT

12 MARCH

Paul Hillier conducts this Family Concert, aimed at a broad audience and designed especially for young people, students and families who want to have a “light and lively” relationship with listening to music. Sala S. Cecilia, 11.30.

JAN LISIECKI

13 MARCH

Pianist Jan Lisiecki performs Chopin’s Etudes op. 10 and Nocturnes. Sala S. Cecilia, 20.30.

CELESTIAL SPHERES: THOMAS ADES

16-18 MARCH

Thomas Adés conducts the S. Cecilia Orchestra and Chorus performing Holst The Planets and Adés Paradiso (Italian premiere). Sala S. Cecilia, 16 March 19.30, 17 March 20.30, 18 March 18.00.

FAMILY CONCERT: BRASS PARADE

19 MARCH

S. Cecilia brass quintet perform in another Family Concert, aimed at a broad audience particularly young

people and preceded by “downto-earth introductory chats that serve as straightforward, helpful listening guides.” Sala Sinopoli, 11.30 introduction, 12.00 concert.

PIOTR ANDERSZEWSKI

22 MARCH

Pianist Piotr Anderszewski performs music by Bach, Szymanowski, Webern and Beethoven. Sala Sinopoli 20.30.

CAPULETI E MONTECCHI

23-25 MARCH

Daniele Gatti conducts the S. Cecilia Orchestra and cellist Pablo Ferrandez in a recital of Tchaikovsky’s Romeo and Juliet: fantasy overture and Variations on a Rococo Theme, and Prokofiev’s Romeo and Juliet: suite. Sala S. Cecilia, 23 March 19.30, 24 March 20.30, 25 March 18.00.

Daniele Gatti conducts the S. Cecilia Orchestra and cellist Pablo Ferrandez in Capuleti e Montecchi.

Mischa Maisky performs Bach’s Suites for Accademia Filarmonica Romana.

ARCHI DI S. CECILIA

29 MARCH

Luigi Piovano conducts the S. Cecilia string orchestra and pianist Gile Bae performing music by Mendelssohn, Bach, Britten and Mozart. Sala Sinopoli, 20.30.

THE SONG OF THE EARTH

30 MARCH-1 APRIL

Tugan Sokhiev conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra with mezzosoprano Alice Coote and tenor Russell Thomas performing Haydn Symphony No. 104 “London” and Mahler Das Lied von der Erde. Sala S. Cecilia, 30 March 19.30, 31 March 20.30, 1 April 18.00.

All concerts take place in the Auditorium Parco della Musica,

OPERA

TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA LA BAYADERE

25 FEB-2 MARCH

Kevin Rhodes directs La Bayadère by Marius Petipa to the music of Ludwig Minkus. This ballet in three acts is choreographed by Benjamin Pech in this new staging by Teatro dell'Opera di Roma.

Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www. operaroma.it.

PAGLIACCI

12-19 MARCH

Daniel Oren conducts this Teatro dell'Opera di Roma production of Pagliacci by Ruggero Leoncavallo on the centenary of the birth of the celebrated Italian choreographer Franco Zeffirelli who died in 2019. Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www. operaroma.it.

ADAM'S PASSION

31 MARCH-1 APRIL

This music theatre piece by Robert

Viale P. de Coubertin 30. For full details of tickets and performance times see www.santacecilia.it.

ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA ROMANA

MISCHA MAISKY

2 MARCH

World-renowned Latvian cellist Mischa Maisky performs Bach’s Suites on his precious 18th-century Montagnana cello, at 21.00. Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina.

HUMANITARIAN CONCERTS I: MARTINA BOSELLI

4 MARCH

Martina Boselli on euphonium

performs music by Bach, Aho, Frackenpol, Horne, at 18.00. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118.

THE CELLO UNVEILED II

10 MARCH

Fabio Fausone, cello, and Stefano Musso, piano, perform music by Beethoven, Dohnányi, at 19.30. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118.

THE CELLO UNVEILED III

17 MARCH

Cellist Alice Mirabella and pianist Rosamaria Macaluso perform music by Kodály and Pejačević, at 19.30. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118.

For details of tickets and performance times see www. filarmonicaromana.org.

Wilson with the music of Arvo Pärt is based on the biblical story of the fall of Adam and is described as a journey into the worlds of sound, light, visual art and performance. Adam's Passion will have its Italian

premiere at the Nuvola Convention Centre in Rome's EUR district, with Tõnu Kaljuste conducting the orchestra and chorus of Teatro dell'Opera di Roma. For details see website www.operaroma.it.

Teatro dell'Opera di Roma stages Adam's Passion by Robert Wilson with the music of Arvo Pärt.

ACCADEMIA NAZIONALE DI SANTA CECILIA

Orchestra and Chorus

2, 3, 4

16, 17, 18

Juraj Valčuha conductor

Francesco Piemontesi

piano

War and Peace

Liszt Piano Concerto No. 2

Shostakovich Symphony No. 8

Pablo Heras-Casado conductor

Theatre of Voices ensemble

Theatre of Voices

Berio Symphony

Stravinskij Symphony of Psalms, The firebird suite No. 2

Thomas Adès conductor

Celestial spheres

Holst The Planets

Adès Paradiso

italian première

Daniele Gatti conductor

Pablo Ferrandez cello

Capuleti and Montecchi

Tchaikovsky

Romeo and Juliet: fantasy overture

Variations on a Rococo Theme

Prokofiev Romeo and Juliet suite

Tugan Sokhiev conductor

Alice Coote mezzosoprano

Russell Thomas tenore

The Song of the Earth

Haydn Symphony No. 104 “London”

Mahler Das Lied von der Erde

FOUNDING

© Marco Borggreve

© Marco Borggreve

SPORT

SIX NATIONS RUGBY IN ROME

Italy will play three home games in the 2023 edition of the annual Six Nations rugby union championship which ends on 18 March. After facing France and Ireland last month, the Azzurri will face Wales on 11 March in Rome’s Stadio Olimpico. The 15-match tournament will also see Italy play two away games against England and Scotland. All sides will try to avoid being handed the dreaded “wooden spoon” – for finishing in last place – which last year went to Italy. The Azzurri did however end a 36-match losing streak with a victory over Wales in Cardiff on the final day of the 2022 championship and at the start of this year’s tournament on 5 February came close to beating the defending champions France in Rome (24-29) and gave Ireland a good run for their money (20-34). As part of the “Rugby and Culture” initiative, Rome’s Capitoline Museums will offer free admission to Six Nations ticket-holders during the weekends that the Italy games are being played in the capital. The

offer grants free admission to two people for each ticket holder, with rugby fans entering the Capitoline Museums for free simply by showing their Six Nations tickets. For details see Federazione Italiana Rugby website, www.federugby.it.

ROME MARATHON

19 MARCH

The 2023 edition of the Maratona di

Roma will be launched on Sunday 19 March with a tenor singing the national anthem followed by a flypast over the Colosseum by Italy’s Frecce Tricolori jets. Famous for emitting plumes of the three colours from the Italian flag, the aerobatic demonstration team of the Italian Air Force takes to the skies to mark important events and public holidays in Italy. The 42-km race begins and ends at the Colosseum, taking in around 30 landmarks on the way, from the Roman Forum to Castel S. Angelo and the Spanish Steps. Parallel to the main event, there is the noncompetitive “Stracittadina” 5-km fun run in the Circus Maximus area, and the charity Run4Rome relay race. More than 30,000 runners are expected to participate, reports Corriere dello Sport, with about 60 per cent coming from abroad. The time limit for crossing the finish line is seven hours, and anyone who fails to reach the halfway mark within three and a half hours is required to give up. Those who last the distance are rewarded with a medal as well as a goody bag and a foil wrap to stay warm. Registration is open until 10 March, for full details see marathon website, www. runromethemarathon.com.

Rome hosts three Six Nations rugby games. Photo: Marco Iacobucci Epp / Shutterstock.com.

The Maratona di Roma will be held on 19 March.

ROME SUBWAY WORKS UNEARTH GOLD GLASSS WITH ROMA GODDESS

A rare representation of the goddess Roma on ancient gold glass has emerged during construction works for Rome’s third subway line. Originally the base of a drinking glass, the discovery features an image of the female deity – the personification of the city of Rome – wearing a helmet and carrying a spear. It is the first time that any representation of Roma in gold glass has ever been found, according to archaeologist Simona Morretta of Rome’s special superintendency. Describing it as “extraordinarily refined”, Morretta told news agency ANSA: “Golden glass is already a very rare find, but this has no comparison”. Gold glass is a luxury form of glass where a decorative design in gold leaf is fused between two layers of glass. The majority of surviving Roman examples are the cut-off bottoms of drinking glasses. Morretta said the precious artefact did not belong to the military barracks found during the subway works – which was abandoned in the middle of the third century and subsequently razed to the ground – with preliminary studies suggesting the glass is from the start of the fourth century.

The unprecedented discovery was made during excavations for the Metro C station at Porta Metronia which, according to Rome mayor Roberto Gualtieri, would be another “metro station-museum” – displaying the archaeological finds yielded during its construction including the gold glass – similar to the preceding Metro C station at S. Giovanni. The mayor also said that Porta Metronia would be open in late 2024, in time for the Jubilee 2025, followed by the opening of the next Metro C station at the Colosseum. The driverless 19-km Metro C line currently comprises 22 stations and runs from Pantono in east Rome to S. Giovanni, where it connects with Metro A and the central Termini train station. With the opening of the Colosseo station, Metro C will connect with the Metro B line. Construction is set to begin on the Metro C station in Piazza Venezia during the first half of 2023, the city said recently. The Venezia metro stop has a planned completion date of 2030, according to Gualtieri, who added that it too would be a “stationmuseum”. The latest archaeological discovery announced by the city came days after a statue of an elderly figure

in the guise of Hercules – possibly Emperor Decius – was found during sewer works near the Appian Way which is currently seeking UNESCO World Heritage Status.

ITALY’S OPERA HOUSES UNITE TO SAVE VERDI’S HOME

Opera houses across Italy are joining a fund-raising campaign to help the state buy Villa Verdi, the museum and former home of the celebrated Italian opera composer Giuseppe Verdi. Supported by the culture ministry, the Viva Verdi initiative will see 14 opera foundations each hosting a performance of Verdi’s music and operas, between February and June. Villa Verdi, which is in need of renovation, was put on the market last autumn following a 20-year dispute between the composer’s heirs. The Italian state will exercise its right of first refusal and the government has allocated €20 million for the purchase of the landmark property in the northern Emilia-Romagna region. However the sale price is expected to be in the region of €30 million, with the proceeds from the special concerts hosted by Italy’s opera houses helping the state to meet the shortfall. It is also possible for individuals to make donations to the Viva Verdi campaign. “Giuseppe Verdi was a key figure in national Risorgimento, an important figure along with Garibaldi, Mazzini and Cavour” – said Italian culture minister Gennaro Sangiuliano – “It is a duty of the Republic to honour his memory.”

Located in S. Agata di Villanova, near Piacenza, Villa Verdi was the composer’s home from 1851 until his death in 1901. Verdi purchased the property in 1848, personally drawing up plans for the expansion of the villa, part of which dates to the 16th-century. The house-museum contains musical treasures such as the Viennese piano which Verdi used to compose some of his greatest works, including La Traviata and Il Trovatore. For details of the Viva Verdi programme see culture ministry website, www.beniculturali.it.

Andy Devane

Gold glass with the goddess Roma.

Poster for Italy's Viva Verdi campaign.

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city There are also concerts in many of the churches and sometimes in the museums.

Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com

Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct

Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct

Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct

Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it

Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct

Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com

Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it

MUSIC THE A TRE CINEMA VENUES

TRE MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

classical cinema

RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it

Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com

Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com

RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it

Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are at Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others are at the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Roma Tre, Via Ostienze 234, www.r30.org

Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com

cinema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for weekly updates.

Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for weekly updates.

Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361

Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767

There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome.

Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are at Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others are at the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Roma Tre, Via Ostienze 234, www.r30.org

All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org

There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome.

All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 068553485

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 068553485

Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com

Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825

Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com

Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230

Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825

Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361

Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230

St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it

Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7

S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona

St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it

S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com

Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361

Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068

Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116

Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068

Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361

Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116

Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111

Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361

Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111

Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, ww

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it

dance opera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it

dance opera

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

rock pop

rock pop

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com

Live Alcazar, Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com

Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org

Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it

Atlantico, Viale dell’Oceano Atlantico 271d, tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com

Atlantico, Viale dell’Oceano Atlantico 271d, tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www auditorium.com

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it

Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it

Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it

Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it

Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it

Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it

Live Alcazar, Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com

PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it

Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it

PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it

Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com

Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com

Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com

Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com

Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, www.teatrosangenesio.it

Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 www.teatrosangenesio.it

Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it

Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel. 065898031, www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it

Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

By Kate Zagorski

GNOCCHI ALLA ROMANA

The Roman take on gnocchi is a far cry from the pillowy potato dumplings usually associated with the name. Golden medallions made of semolina our, milk, butter and parmesan are layered, covered with more butter and cheese, and baked in the oven until crisp to create a soul-nourishing bowl of comfort.

Interestingly, the use of ingredients such as butter and parmesan rather than the local Lazio olive oil and pecorino cheese, suggests that there was a northern in uence on the recipe’s origins, perhaps from Piemonte, but nowadays, as the name con rms, the dish has earned its deserved place in the catalogue of cucina romana.

The dough is simple and, as it needs time to cool in the fridge, can be made in advance. The basic recipe calls for the gnocchi to be covered with butter and parmesan before baking but the version below takes it a step further by also using fresh sage and garlic (if desired) to add extra avour and aroma.

Ingredients

(Serves 4)

250g semolina our 125g butter

1 litre milk

2 egg yolks

140g parmesan, grated

1 bunch fresh sage

1 clove garlic (optional) Salt

Nutmeg

• Heat the milk in a saucepan along with 25g of the butter, a pinch of salt and a generous grating of nutmeg. Once the milk begins to boil, gradually add the semolina our, whisking continuously to avoid any lumps forming. Keep stirring the mixture over a low heat for a few minutes until it begins to thicken. Remove from the heat and stir in the egg yolks with a spoon. Add 100g of the parmesan and mix well until everything is combined.

• Pour the mixture onto a sheet of baking paper, divide into two and roll each piece with your ngers to form two long cylinders about 5cm wide. Roll each piece separately in baking paper and place in the fridge for at least half an hour to cool completely. When you are ready to bake the gnocchi, heat the oven to 200°C and grease a baking dish.

• Take the cylinders out of the fridge, remove the baking paper and use a sharp, wet knife to cut them into circular medallions about 1cm thick. Meanwhile heat the remaining butter in a small saucepan with a few fresh sage leaves and a whole clove of garlic (if desired). Once the butter has melted and infused, discard the garlic leaving the sage leaves.

• Layer the gnocchi all over the base of the baking dish, overlapping them slightly. Pour the sage butter all over the surface of the gnocchi, sprinkle over the remaining parmesan and top with a few more fresh sage leaves.

• Bake in the oven for 15-20 minutes until the top is golden and crispy. Serve immediately.

The best cheap seafood in rome

It’s difficult to dine out on a delicious fish supper without breaking the bank, which is why we have put together this list of five small osterie and trattorie that serve high quality and fairly priced fish dishes.

S. LORENZO

DA FRANCO AR VICOLETTO

At Franco al Vicoletto in S. Lorenzo you can enjoy simple fresh fish dishes. There’s a set menu costing between €25 to €30 or you can order from the à la carte menu. The ‘Tiberio’ menu starting at €25 includes a mixed seafood salad, sautéed mussels and clams, fried vegetables and anchovies with octopus, a mixed fish grill, lemon sorbet and a quarter of a litre of house wine.

TRASTEVERE PEPPO AL COSIMATO

Peppo al Cosimato serves traditional peasant fish recipes. The eatery opened on Via Natale del Grande in 2017 under the former owners of Caffè Perù. Among the dishes on offer, you can enjoy bruschette with marinated anchovies and mackerel (€3), lasagne with cuttlefish (€10), and the catch of the day (€14). It’s a large restaurant with an outdoor terrace.

PIGNETO

LA SANTERIA DI MARE

This locally named ‘pizzicheria di pesce' (fish delicatessen) in Pigneto has a laid back, retro feel. We highly recommend the fish pagnotelle (small round loaves) for €10 and the greater amberjack fish alla cacciatore for €12.

TORMARANCIA

LA VONGOLA VORACE

This small trattoria serving fish in Tormarancia offers, among many dishes, a fish trio (panzanella salad with shell fish, cured salmon and marinated anchovies) and pici (pasta) with clams for €10.

APPIO AND BARBERINI

LA PESCERIA RE DI ROMA E BARBERINI

This fantastic fishmonger has both a small restaurant and a street food stall. You choose your preferred fish at the bar and then sit down to eat. The spaghetti alle vongole for €12.50, fried calamari for €10.50 and fish balls for €9.50 come highly recommended.

Da Franco Ar Vicoletto, Via Dei Falisci 2, tel. 064957675.

La Santeria di Mare, Via Del Pigneto 209, tel. 0689230730.

Peppo al Cosimato, Via Natale del Grande 9, tel. 065812048.

La Vongola Vorace, Largo Luigi Antonelli 15, tel. 0631055314.

La Pesceria Re di Roma, Via Appia 234, tel. 3938834361.

La Pesceria Barberini, Via di S. Nicola da Tolentino 23, tel. 0642903789.

Associations

American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org

American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org

Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com

Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com

Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli

Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net

Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com

Daughters of the American Revolution

Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

Books

The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

Almost Corner Bookshop

Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942

Anglo American Bookshop

Via delle Vite 27, tel. 066795222

Bibliothèque Centre Culturel

Saint-Louis de France (French)

Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it

La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French)

Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com

Libreria Feltrinelli International

Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Religious

All Saints’ Anglican Church

Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881

Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30

Anglican Centre

Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com

Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org

Bible Baptist Church

Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00

Christian Science Services

Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425

Church of All Nations

Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464

Church of Sweden

Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

International Women’s Club of Rome

tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it

Irish Club of Rome

irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org

Luncheon Club of Rome

tel. 3338466820

Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums

tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org

Professional Woman’s Association

www.pwarome.org

United Nations Women’s Guild

tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com

Welcome Neighbor

tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international)

Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484

Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish)

Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it

Open Door Bookshop

(second hand books English, French, German, Italian)

Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com

Otherwise

Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com

Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it

International Central Gospel Church

Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695

International Christian Fellowship

Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00

Jewish Community

Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061

Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas

Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761

Lutheran Church

Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German)

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church

Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic)

Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00

Roma Baptist Church

Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service

10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese)

Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara

Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091

Rome International Church

Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org

Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico)

Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258

St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church

Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00

St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic)

Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups

Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com

Archè

(HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it

Associazione Centro Astalli

(Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306

Associazione Ryder Italia

(Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it

Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it

Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily

Caritas foreigners’ support centre

Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554

Caritas hostel

Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235

Caritas legal assistance

Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369

Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport

• Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it

• Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it

• Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it

• Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994

• Traffic info tel. 1518

• Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic)

Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00

St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org

Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30

St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal)

Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish)

St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic)

Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30

Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00

Comunità di S. Egidio

Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234

Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen

Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027

Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre

St Paul’s within-the-Walls

Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339

Mason Perkins Deafness Fund

(Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it

Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772

Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza)

Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri”

Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351

Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104

The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma

24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers

• Ambulance tel. 118

• Carabinieri tel. 112

• Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336

• Fire brigade tel. 115

• Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999

• Police tel. 113

• Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355