4. RECONSTRUCTING ROME’S ANCIENT PAST
Andy Devane
8. WHEN ITALIAN MEETS ENGLISH
Martin Bennett
12. SIX NATIONS RUGBY IN ROME: A QUICK GUIDE
14. ROME FOR children
16. STREET ART guide
18. MUSEUMS
22. ART GALLERIES
34. CULTURAL VENUES
39. RECIPE
40. puntarella rossa
42. USEFUL NUMBERS
26. EXHIBITIONS
30. Classical
30. OPERA
32. CULTURE NEWS
DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini
EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9
PROGETTO GRAFICO: Dali Studio Srl
IMPAGINAZIONE: Simona Castellari
STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c.
DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425.
Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985.
Finito di stampare il 29/02/2024
CURRENTLY SUSPENDED
Copies are on sale at:
Newsstands in Rome
Anglo American Bookstore, Via della Vite 27
Wanted in Rome, Via di Monserrato 49
Wanted in Rome
Via di Monserrato 49 - tel. 066867967
advertising@wantedinrome.com
editorial@wantedinrome.com
www.wantedinrome.com
www.wantedinmilan.com
8
WHEN ITALIAN MEETS ENGLISH
4 RECONSTRUCTING ROME’S ANCIENT PAST
12
SIX NATIONS RUGBY IN ROME: A QUICK GUIDE
26 OPERA
Rome has unveiled several major restoration projects since the start of this year, all of which made international headlines, in a move that brings the ancient past back to life.
In early February the city presented a towering modern-day reconstruction of the Colossus of Constantine, recreated using 3D modelling technology, at the Capitoline Museums.
The 13-metre-high statue is a replica of the fourth-century Colossus which once stood in the apse of the Basilica of Maxentius in the Roman Forum.
Constantine, also known as Constantine the Great, ruled from 306 to 337 AD and was the first Roman emperor to convert to Christianity.
The reconstructed statue of the seated emperor, wearing a gilded tunic and holding a sceptre and orb, is the work of the Fundación Factum Arte company and was displayed in Milan last year as part of the Recycling Beauty exhibition.
The original Colossus of Constantine, made from marble and gilded bronze, was pillaged and broken before being rediscovered during excavations at the Basilica of Maxentius in the 15th century.
The remaining marble fragments were moved to the courtyard of the Palazzo dei Conservatori in the Capitoline Museums in 1471 as part of the donation by Pope Sixtus IV of ancient Roman pieces to the world's first public museum.
The reconstruction of the Colossus was carried out with the contribution of the Prada Foundation and the Capitoline Museums, under the supervision of Rome archaeological superintendent Claudio Parisi Presicce.
Experts digitally scanned the remaining fragments from the original statue - including
the head, right arm, right hand, right knee, right shin, a calf fragment, the right and left feet, the wrist and a chest fragment - using the high-resolution data to create 3D models of each piece.
The statue was then reconstructed using resin and polyurethane, together with marble powder, gold leaf and plaster, built around an internal aluminium frame.
The imposing replica of the Colosso di Costantino can be seen for free at Villa Caffarelli, part of the Capitoline Museums complex, until the end of 2025.
Just a few minutes away from the Campidoglio, the landscape of Trajan’s Forum has changed dramatically in recent months.
A major restoration project to reconstruct part of the Basilica Ulpia, once the largest basilica in Rome, is currently nearing completion.
An architrave topped by a second tier of three columns in green cipollino marble have been added to the ruins using anastylosis, a restoration process which incorporates the original architectural elements to the greatest degree possible.
For the past century the three cipollino marble columns had been positioned erroneously elsewhere in Trajan's Forum until being restored to their rightful place, along the outer perimeter of the basilica's first nave.
Towering at a height of 23 metres, the partially reconstructed monument adds a whole new dimension to the ancient site, granting visitors a sense of the vast scale of the building which was once dedicated to the administration of justice and commerce.
Built by the architect Apollodorus of Damascus at the behest of the Emperor Trajan between 106 and 113 AD, the Basilica
Ulpia collapsed in the mediaeval era, its ruins pillaged for construction material, before being excavated in the early 19th century and 1930s.
In contrast to the fanfare that heralded the reconstructed statue of Constantine, the city has been decidedly low-key in promoting its ambitious project in Trajan’s Forum, despite the enormity of the initiative and its permanent nature.
This is due to the fact that the patron of the ambitious restoration feat is a Uzbekistanborn oligarch who has been on the EU sanction list since March 2022 after Russia invaded Ukraine.
Seven years earlier, in 2015, metals tycoon Alisher Usmanov made a €1.5 million donation to fund the project, during the administration of former Rome mayor Ignazio Marino.
A giant Roman emperor and a new-look Basilica Ulpia are not the only new historical attractions that Rome has to offer.
At the start of this year, the city opened a new museum and archaeological park in a forgotten corner of the Caelian Hill, against the backdrop of the Colosseum.
The Museo della Forma Urbis houses the remaining fragments of the Forma Urbis Romae, a giant marble map of ancient Rome engraved between 203 and 211 AD during the reign of Emperor Septimius Severus.
The map, which originally measured 18 by 13 metres, was mounted inside the Temple of Peace before being destroyed during the Middle Ages when the marble was used as building materials or for making lime.
The Forma Urbis Museum allows visitors to fully enjoy the ancient marble map – last seen by the public a century ago – with the original fragments placed under a glass floor which is superimposed with Giovanni Battista Nolli's 1748 Pianta Grande map of Rome.
To start, yes, with football, the daily sports pages (here of La Repubblica) having an inventiveness all their own. Take risultista: From an article featuring ‘Max vs Mou’ (respectively Juventus manager Max Allegri and AS Roma’s now ex-manager/ frontman Jose Mourinho) the neologism encapsulates the two rivals’ emphasis on results before entertainment
or il bel gioco. Then the related difensivista. Thanks to Italian’s suffix system, both coinages convince while, translated into English, they fall phonetically short.
So to anglicismi. In another edition, concerning “Mou vs Mau” (Lazio mister Maurizio Sarri) we find le diverse profundità della derbitudine. Now there is a word to get one’s
head round. Clearly deriving from derby, it surpasses the Anglo-Saxon original by a country mile. The eponymous English earl must be applauding in his grave. Mourinho may have moved on, no longer l’uomo derby as he might have hoped, but the new coinage remains.
Next up, some eye-catching collocations. Franco Merlo’s tribute to the late Gigi Riva, for example: Era il nostro cowboy, che faceva gol invece di cavalcare (horse-riding). Then il lifting tattico; il refrain vittimistico del underdog; cf. certain supporters, bannare e sanzionare gli insulti; vis-a-vis the transfer market, sorprese last minute.
Another issue produces I Friedkin (AS Roma’s owners dropping in Italian the plural ‘s’) hanno lasciato nel silenzio le avances dello Special One. For its part dribblare can be used on the pitch and off, as in dribblando le multitudini di Notre Dame. The English verb has become transitive, discovering a new identity absent in the original English, branching out into fresh semantic territory.
C’è un bisogno di risettare, Naples’ owner De Laurentiis explains his decision to take his team off to Saudi Arabia. That, and maybe the money? La Repubblica’s London correspondent Antonello Guerrera, in a piece headlined Il Campionato Saudita dei Superstar, skips equally deftly between languages: grave fiscali on one line, “tax benefits” on another; from “head-hunting” to caccia delle teste. Then una gigantesca operazione di sportswashing, the fairness of which it’s not a word-spotter’s to judge. Just that lavaggio per mezzo dello sport would use more ink and column inches and is less-expressive phonetically than the anglicism’s ‘s-s-sh.’
Still with football, a story, apocryphal or not, narrates how back in 1903 Juventus came by its distinctive black-and-white striped shirts. The fledgling club had ordered a set of shirts of Nottingham Forest red. What came back instead was the black-and-white
strip of Notts Conty, nowadays not just acceptable but a Juventino’s sine qua non. If mix-ups can occur with shirts, how much more with languages. Crossed meanings, yes, but sometimes opening up new possibilities. Language usage has, over time, a way of turning mishap into serendipity. “This magnificent language salad” occurs the phrase. Imagine music, art, architecture, astronomy or any Shakespeare soliloquy ‘purged’ of Italianisms and where would we be?
Not, of course, that everyone agrees. La Repubblica’s letter section Posta e Risposta invites readers to propose a word – the odd ‘neologism’ included – for la ghigliottina, maybe forgetting that ghigliottina, was just that, a neologism. In the spirit of the English game of ‘hangman’, maybe ‘gibbet’ would be better, the Garzanti dictionary tracing a more venerable etymology to Dante’s Inferno XIII, 151: Io fei gibetto a me de le mie case. Whatever, it’s a losing battle. Like “trying to chain syllables and lash the wind,” to quote Doctor Johnson. Poet, essayist and for nine years a lone lexicographer, he concludes: “Academies have been instituted to guard the venues of language and repulse intruders, but their vigilance and activity has been in vain.”
A word, once executed, has a habit of resurrecting on another page, a law unto itself. In the political section, amidst blocks of pristine Italian, “incumbent” (Biden or
Trump?) appears. Off with its head! purists might cry. Except the word in the strict sense is neither anglicism nor neologism; it entered English in the mediaeval times via ecclesiastical Latin (in plus cumbere, to lie). As in football, Italian political reports also teem with eye-catching collocations: il ciclo soft; un regionalismo hard; l’ultima chance (shorter than opportunità); una mancanza di feeling; il bluff del protocollo di Italia-Albania; la leadership rosa (having acquired a gender the noun, one might argue, has already started the process of italianizzazione; similarly, lo stop, il premier time.
Shades of the Blair years resurface in la storia che il Corte prova di spinnare. Another day, another word and there is; lobbista di petrolio or, older than the Aeneid, delle armi. A feature commemorating Umberto Eco cites Il fascismo è un totalitarianismo fuzzy; a justification in that the phrase is from a speech in New York delivered to a partly Italian partly US audience (The Italian Institute, 1997).
At headline level Brexit fa flop speaks volumes. Al sud un assist alla mafia. Vespa in pole position relates to the tv host and an upcoming debate/ showdown/ duel between leader of the centre-left Partito Democratico Elly Schlein and the right-wing Italian premier Giorgia Meloni. E un all-in o niente?
From individual politicians to factions and affiliations. They crowd the page, irrepressibly plural: reordered here into a centrist to
rightward slant and beyond, i dem, renziani, salviniani, lepenisti, trumpiani, putiniani. Soundwise the nomenclature conjures distant memories of that in Gulliver’s Travels with its Lilliputians, Laputans, Big or Little Endians. Finally to page 38 and Stefano Bartezzaghi’s cross-word. To word-spotters it is a daily delight, not to say something of an addiction. And a playful means of channeling neologisms into the mainstream. Consider the clues 1. Auto di gran lusso. 2. Un disco volante. 3. Un gruppo di edifici recinto. 4. Una narrazione poco raffinata ma molto avvincente. 5. Una mescolanza che piace.
Wrack your brains in vain, until it dawns: the solutions are not strictly (or only very recently) Italian: 1. Supercar 2. Frisbee. 3. Compound. 4. Pulp. 5. Cocktail. A puzzled pause, then, with a technological element, 6. Dati del computer? Input. 7. Un programma con pubblicità? Adware. 8. Ciò che si scarica? Tomorrow’s issue reveals the answer: download. Ah, so that what it was; the ‘w’ should have given it away.
Crosswords then, as lexical consolidation and extension device. Most dramatically, given results of scientific research suggesting bilingualism can delay Alzheimer’s by several years, crosswords as antidote? (“Bilingualism may stave off Alzheimer’s”, New York Times, 30 April 2023). Might Bartezzaghi’s cruciverba be as medicinal, then, as it is recreational?
For mental health’s sake, a few clues more: 9. Uno che si burla della vecchiaia? Ageista. 10. Ascensore senza corda? Free climber. 11. As downward equivalent, Salto nel vuoto? Bungee jumping. 12. Si afferma in tutto il mondo? The less anglicismo than globalismo, Okay. 13. Bastoncino della gioia? Joystick. 14. Un ameno amoreggiamento? Nine syllables for one, Flirt.
That, then, via the constant shift between languages, brain exercise. What’s ‘gained in translation’, to reverse the phase. Who knows how much grey matter has been safe-guarded, the number of synapses overhauled.
Italy will play two home games in the 2024 edition of the annual Six Nations rugby union championship which kicked off on 3 February and ends on 16 March.
The Azzurri narrowly lost to England 27-24 in Rome on 3 February, with the next match in the Olympic Stadium against Scotland on 9 March.
The 15-match tournament – contested by England, France, Ireland, Italy, Scotland and Wales
– will see Italy play three away games: against defending champions Ireland in Dublin on 11 February (who hammered Italy 36-0); almost beating France in Lille on 25 February (1313); and Wales in Cardiff on 16 March.
All sides will try to avoid being handed the dreaded “wooden spoon” or cucchiaio di legno – for finishing in last place – which last year went to Italy.
Argentine Gonzalo Quesada recently took over from New Zealander Kieran Crowley
as the head coach of the Azzurri whose captain is 25-year-old Michele Lamaro.
For full details of the 2024 tournament, including tickets, see the websites of the Six Nations www.sixnationsrugby.com and the Federazione Italiana Rugby (FIR) www.federugby.it.
By public transport: From Termini station, take the Metro A line in the direction of Battistini, getting out at Ottaviano (6 stops away, in the Vatican area). From there take the No. 32 bus to Piazzale della Farnesina and make the short walk to the stadium.
Alternatively take the Metro A line in the direction of Battistini and get out at Flaminio (4 stops) then take the No. 2 tram to its terminus at Piazza Mancini (7 stops). From there cross over the Ponte Duca d’Aosta bridge to the stadium.
By foot: The stadium is located around six km from the centre of Rome, or about four km from the Ottaviano area. It is roughly a 40-minute walk from Flaminio, a popular option for many.
Taxi: Visitors to Rome who wish to reach the stadium by taxi are advised to give themselves plenty of time and not leave it until the last minute as traffic can be heavy on match days. The city’s main taxi companies are 063570 and 060609. Rome taxi cooperative Samarcanda (065551) is known for its excellent customer service.
Sustainable transport: Other options include car-sharing companies such as Enjoy www. enjoy.eni.com, electric motorcycle sharing outfits like eCooltra (www.cooltra.com) or electric scooter and bicycle sharing operators Bird (www.bird.co), Dott (www.ridedott. com) and Lime (www.li.me). The stadium has nearby parking facilities for bicycles.
Useful apps: Handy transport apps in Rome include journey-planners Moovit and Mooney-
Go!. The city’s public transport company is ATAC, with traffic news available on the municipal mobility website, www.atac.roma.it.
For the biggest screens, party atmosphere and commentary in English, it would be hard to beat Scholars Lounge (Via del Plebiscito 101/b) just off the central Piazza Venezia – Rome’s largest Irish pub and past winner of the world’s Irish Pub of the Year.
Italian rugby fans cram into the rugby-mad The Shamrock (Via del Colosseo 1/c) or Camden Town (Via Ostilia 30) – two Irish pubs on opposite sides of the Colosseum – with a lively atmosphere guaranteed in both places.
The Fiddler’s Elbow (Via dell’Olmata 43) and the Druids Den (Via di S. Martino Ai Monti 28) – Rome’s oldest and third-oldest Irish pub respectively – screen the games to their customers who are generally a mix of Italian and foreign.
Finnegans (Via Leonina 66), in the heart of the Monti quarter, also screens the Six Nations and attracts a large English-speaking crowd, mainly from the UK and Ireland.
Other popular pubs showing the rugby games include the Abbey Theatre (Via del Governo Vecchio 51) near Piazza Navona, The Highlander in the historic centre (Vicolo di S. Biagio 9), and The Nag’s Head (Via IV November 138/b) near Piazza Venezia.
ARTandSEEK
English-language cultural workshops and visits to museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforkids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandseekforkids.com.
Bioparco
Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and o ers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it.
Bowling Silvestri
is sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.
ere are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com.
Casa del Parco
Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com.
Casina di Ra aello
Play centre in Villa Borghese o ering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Ra aello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadira aello.it.
Cinecittà World
is 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special e ects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it.
Climbing
Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, urs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473.
Explora
e 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it.
Go-karting
Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it.
Gymboree
is children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, o ering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it.
Hortis Urbis
Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it.
Il Nido
Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.
Luneur
Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it.
Rainbow Magicland
e 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it.
Time Elevator
A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. e time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it.
Zoomarine is amusement and aquatic park outside Rome o ers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.
Rome’s reputation as an important street art capital continues to grow with new murals by important Italian and international street artists appearing all the time. Most of the works are located in the suburbs, often far from the centre. Here is where to find Rome’s main street art projects and murals.
from the centre. Here is where to find the main street art projects and murals around Rome.
Esquilino
Esquilino
Murals by Alice Pasquini, Gio Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa dell’Architettura, Piazza Mafredo Fanti 47.
Murals by Alice Pasquini, Gio Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa dell'Architettura, Piazza Manfredo Fanti 47.
Marconi
Marconi
The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artist Seth is located in a former soap factory on Via Antonio Avogadro, opposite Ostiense’s landmark Gasometro. For details see www.999contemporary.com.
The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artist Seth is located in a former soap factory on Via Antonio Avogadro, opposite Ostiense's landmark Gasometro. For details see www.999contemporary.com.
Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz
Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz
This former meat factory in the outskirts of Rome is now a street art museum as well as being home to some 200 squatting migrants. The Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz, or MAAM, is only open on Saturdays, and features the work of more than 300 artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Pistone, Sten&Lex, Pablo Echaurren and Borondo. See MAAM Facebook page for details. Via Prenestina 913.
This former meat factory in the outskirts of Rome is now a street art museum as well as being home to some 200 squatters, many of them migrants. The Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz, or MAAM, is only open on Saturdays, and features the work of more than 300 artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Pistone, Sten&Lex and Diamond. See MAAM Facebook page for details. Via Prenestina 913.
Ostiense
Ostiense
Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fluviale.
Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fluviale.
Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale.
Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale.
Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali.
Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali.
Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense.
Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense.
Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense.
Pigneto
Pigneto
Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.
Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.
Via Fanfulla da Lodi.
Via Fanfulla da Lodi.
2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio.
Blu Landscape by Sten & Lex. Via Francesco Baracca.
2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Blu Landscape by Sten & Lex. Via Francesco Baracca.
Prati
Prati
Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria. Daniza the bear by ROA. Via Sabotino.
Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria. Daniza the bear by ROA. Via Sabotino.
Primavalle
Primavalle
The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai.
The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai.
Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo.
Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo.
Quadraro
Quadraro
Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Pistone. Via Decio Mure. Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte. Via del Monte del Grano.
Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Pistone. Via Decio Mure. NidodiVespe by Lucamaleonte. Via del Monte del Grano.
Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89.
Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89.
Rebibbia
Rebibbia
Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Palombini (Casal dè Pazzi). Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station.
Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Palombini (Casal dè Pazzi). WelcometoRebibbiaby Zerocalcare. Metro B station.
S. Basilio
S. Basilio
SanBa features large-scale works on the façades of social-housing blocks in the disadvantaged north-east suburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regeneration project includes works by Italian artists Agostino Iacurci, Hitnes and Blu alongside Spain's Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia.
SanBa features large-scale works on the façades of social-housing blocks in the disadvantaged north-east suburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regeneration project includes works by Italian artists Agostino Iacurci, Hitnes and Blu alongside Spain’s Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia.
S. Giovanni
S. Giovanni
Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.
Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.
It’s a New Day by Alice Pasquini. Via Anton Ludovico.
It’s a New Day by Alice Pasquini. Via Anton Ludovico.
S. Lorenzo
S. Lorenzo
Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi.
Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Mural by Agostino Iacurci on the Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia.
Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Mural by Agostino Iacurci on the Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia.
S. Pietro
S. Pietro
Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo.
Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo.
Testaccio
Testaccio
Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. #KindComments by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market. Tor Pignattara
Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. #KindComments by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market.
Tor Pignattara
Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello
51. Coffee Break by Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Pavoni.
Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51. Coffee Break by Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Pavoni.
Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Serbelloni.
Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Serbelloni.
Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Alessi.
Herakut. Via Capua 14.
Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Alessi.
Herakut. Via Capua 14.
Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6.
Tor Marancia
Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia
The Big City Life scheme features 14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and international street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. The idea was to transform the area's blocks of flats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. www.bigcity.life.it.
The Big City Life scheme features 14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and international street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. The idea was to transform the area’s blocks of flats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.
IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS DETAILS. IN SOME CASES RESERVATIONS ARE REQUIRED.
Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.
Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums
Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.
Baths of Diocletian
Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.
Borghese Museum
Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.
Castel S. Angelo Museum
Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine
Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30.
Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.
Crypta Balbi
Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.
Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia
Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.
Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna
Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.
MAXXI
Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.
Palazzo Corsini
Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.
Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale
Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.
Palazzo Altemps
Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.
Palazzo Barberini
Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme
Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.
IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS DETAILS. IN SOME CASES RESERVATIONS ARE REQUIRED.
Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.
Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums
Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.
Baths of Diocletian
Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoro ma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.
Borghese Museum
Crypta Balbi
Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.
Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia
Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.
Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna
Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.
Castel S. Angelo Museum
Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantan gelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.
MAXXI
Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.
Palazzo Corsini
Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.
Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine
Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30.
Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.
Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale
Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.
Palazzo Altemps
Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.
Palazzo Barberini
Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme
Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.
Villa Farnesina
Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.
CITY MUSEUMS
Centrale Montemartini
Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.
Capitoline Museums
Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.
Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna
Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.
MACRO
Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.
MATTATOIO
Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.
Museo Barracco
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.
Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi
Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.
Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets
Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
Museo Canonica
Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).
Museo Napoleonico
Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.
Casa di Goethe
Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.
Chiostro Del Bramante
Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.
Doria Pamphilj Gallery
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.
Galleria Colonna
Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.
Giorgio de Chirico House Museum
Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, rst Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.
Keats-Shelley House
Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00.
Guided tours on prior booking.
Museo storico della Liberazione
Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.
Palazzo Merulana
Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.
1/9 Unosunove
1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.
A.A.M. Architettura
Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www. -maam.it.
Contemporary Cluster
Multidisciplinary venue devoted to visual art, design, architecture and fashion design at Palazzo Brancaccio. Via Merulana 248, tel. 0631709949, www.contemporarycluster.com.
C.R.E.T.A.
Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Del ni, Via dei Del ni 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.
Dorothy Circus Gallery
Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.
Ex Elettrofonica
This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.
Fondazione Memmo
Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespeci c exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.
Fondazione Pasti cio Cerere
This non-pro t foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pasti ciocerere.com.
Fondazione Volume!
The Volume Foundation exhibits works created speci cally for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.
Franz Paludetto
Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.
Frutta
This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.
Gagosian Gallery
The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.
GALLA
Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at a ordable prices by artists working in various elds. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.
Galleria Alessandro Bonomo
Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.
Galleria Valentina Bonomo
Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works speci cally for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.
Galleria Frammenti D’Arte
Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.
Galleria Lorcan O’Neill
High-pro le international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.
Galleria della Tartaruga
Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.
Galleria Il Segno
Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.
Galleria Mucciaccia
Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.
Galleria Russo
This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.
Galleria Varsi
A dynamic gallery promoting street culture and contemporary art movements. Via di A ogalasino 34, www.galleriavarsi.it.
Gavin Brown's Enterprise
New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.
Il Ponte Contemporanea
Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of di erent generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.
La Nuova Pesa
Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.
MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea
Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.
Magazzino d’Arte Moderna
Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.
Monitor
This contemporary art gallery o ers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.
Nero Gallery
Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.
Nomas Foundation
Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.
Operativa Arte Contemporanea
A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.
Pian de Giullari
Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.
Plus Arte Puls
Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.
Sala 1
This internationally known non-pro t contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.
S.T. Foto libreria galleria
Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.
Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri
The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.
T293
The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.
The Gallery Apart
This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.
TraleVolte
Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.
Von Buren Contemporary
Rome-based gallery specialising in a ordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via Giulia 13, tel. 3351633518, www.vonburencontemporary.com.
Wunderkammern
This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.
Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin
Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria o ers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.
20 FEB-23 JUNE
Rome stages a major exhibition dedicated to the world of Ukiyo-e, a genre of Japanese art that flourished from the 17th through 19th centuries, at Museo di Roma Palazzo Braschi. Curated by Rossella Menegazzo, the features 150 works on loan from the E. Chiossone Museum of Oriental Art in Genoa and the Museum of Civilizations in Rome. The exhibition includes works by masters of the Edo period, including Kitagawa Utamaro, Katsushika Hokusai, of whom the Great Wave of Kanagawa is on display, Keisai Eisen and the Utagawa school with Toyokuni, Toyoharu, Hiroshige, Kuniyoshi, Kunisada. The term ukiyo-e translates as ‘picture[s] of the floating world’ and its artists produced woodblock prints and paintings of such subjects as female beauties; kabuki actors and sumo wrestlers; scenes from history and folk tales; travel scenes and landscapes; flora and fauna; and erotica. See cover of this edition. Museo di Roma Palazzo Braschi, Piazza Navona 2, www. museodiroma.it.
16 FEB-28 APRIL
Rome remembers the popular singer-songwriter Rino Gaetano with an exhibition at the Museo di Roma in Trastevere, more than four decades after the artist’s untimely death at the age of 30. The show, the first of its kind in honour of Gaetano, features memorabilia relating to the artist including archive footage, documents, musical instruments, his stage clothes and hat collection, with many items on public display for the first time. Best remembered for hits including the jaunty Ma il cielo è sempre più blu and the ballad Aida, Gaetano was known for his rough voice and for taking aim at politics with his satirical songs. Born
in Italy’s southern Calabria region in 1950, Gaetano moved to Rome as a child. He died in a car crash in the Italian capital on 2 June 1981, two days after his last television appearance when he sang the title track of his final album E io ci sto. Museo di Roma in Trastevere, Piazza di S. Egidio 1/b, www. museodiromaintrastevere.it.
9 FEB-26 MAY
Palazzo Merulana, home of the Elena and Claudio Cerasi Foundation, stages an exhibition
dedicated to the Italian artist Antonio Donghi, a leading figure in the Magical Realism art movement in Italy. Curated by Fabio Benzi, the exhibition comprises more than 30 works by Donghi (18971963), including paintings on loan from Rome’s municipal gallery of modern art, the National Gallery of Modern Art, the Bank of Italy and the UniCredit collection (formerly Bank of Rome). There are also paintings on display from the Elena and Claudio Cerasi collection, including three celebrated works: Washerwomen (1922-23); Boat Trip (1934); Little acrobats (1938). The exhibited works feature all the
main subjects painted by the Rome artist including landscapes, still lifes, portraits, indoor and outdoor figures, circus and vaudeville characters. Palazzo Merulana, Via Merulana 121, www. palazzomerulana.it.
29 NOV-7 JAN
Rome’s Chiostro del Bramante presents a contemporary art exhibition devoted to the range of emotions that inspire artists as well as the feelings that artworks conjure up in the spectator. Curated by Danilo Eccher, the exhibition features works by Italian and international artists including AES+F, Mat Collishaw, Subodh Gupta, Carsten Höller, Eva Jospin, Kimsooja, Luigi Mainolfi, Masbedo, Annette Messager, Paul Morrison, Luigi Ontani, Tony Oursler, Piero Pizzi Cannella, Laure Prouvost, Pietro Ruffo, Alessandro Sciaraffa, Gregor Schneider, Paolo Scirpa, Nedko Solakov and Adrian Tranquilli. Chiostro del Bramante, Via Arco della Pace 5, www. chiostrodelbramante.it.
24 NOV-5 MAY
The Capitoline Museums pay tribute to Phidias, hailed as the greatest Greek sculptor of the classical age, with an exhibition of masterpieces by the fifth-century BC genius. The exhibition includes around 100 works including some ancient Greek artefacts that have never left their museums in Greece until now, as well as bronzes, paintings, manuscripts, drawings and multimedia installations. Among the masterpieces on display are two original fragments of the Parthenon frieze, on loan from the Acropolis Museum in Athens; a vase engraved with the inscription Pheidiou eimi (I am Phidias) from the Archaeological Museum of Olympia; and the socalled Strangford Shield, a replica of the shield of the Athena in the Parthenon, on loan from the British Museum. The exhibition in Rome inaugurates a cycle of five shows under the title The Great Masters of Ancient Greece. Villa Caffarelli,
Capitoline Museums, www. museicapitolini.org.
21 NOV-21 APRIL
The Museo Nazionale Romano at the Baths of Diocletian presents the largest and most prestigious exhibition of archaeological finds organised by Romania abroad in recent decades. The exhibition retraces the historical and cultural development of the Dacian civilisation from the eighth century BC to the eighth century AD. Around 1,000 objects from 47 Romanian museums will be presented, as well as from the National Museum of History in the Republic of Moldova, exhibited for the first time alongside some finds from the National Roman Museum. The exhibition features priceless artefacts including the marble Glycon serpent from Tomis, the Golden Helmet of Coțofenești, the bronze Celtic helmet from Ciumeşti, and the Pietroasele Treasure. Terme di Diocleziano, Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, www.museonazionaleromano. beniculturali.it/terme-di-diocleziano.
Palazzo Bonaparte displays 300 works by Maurits Cornelius Escher (1898-1972) in what organisers boast is the “largest and most complete exhibition ever dedicated” to the Dutch graphic artist. The blockbuster show includes the artist’s best known images as well as numerous
works never shown in public before. Highlights include Hand with reflecting sphere (1935), Bond of Union (1956), Day and Night (1938) and Metamorphosis II (1939). Escher is famed for his mathematicallyinspired woodcuts, lithographs and mezzotints featuring visually stunning designs that explore the seemingly impossible limits of architecture and infinity. Fascinated by geometrical shapes, Escher distorted perspective and parallax to create scenes in which the eye is deceived, often leaving the viewer confounded. The artist travelled extensively in Italy, living with his wife and son in Rome’s Monteverde district from 1923 until the fascist political climate prompted the family’s departure to Switzerland in 1935. Piazza Venezia 5, www. mostrepalazzobonaparte.it.
1,700+ students from 75+ countries
18:1 student professor ratio
Networking and Career Opportunities
Merit and Need-Based Scholarships
14 Bachelor’s Degrees
BUSINESS AND ECONOMICS
Business Administration
Economics and Finance
International Business
Marketing
POLITICAL AND SOCIAL SCIENCES
Communications
International Affairs
Political Science
Psychological Science
2 Master's Degrees
MA in International Affairs
MA in Art History
HUMANITIES
Art History
Classical Studies
English Literature
History
Humanistic Studies
Italian Studies
The “Salut à la France!” concert will showcase two Italian artists, Riccardo Minasi, chief conductor of Mozarteum Orchestra Salzburg, and Andrea Obiso, who makes his solo debut in the symphonic season. The programme begins with three Overtures by Rameau: from the opera Zaïs (1748), from Naïs, and from the opéra-ballet Les fêtes de Polymnie (1745) (1749). These will be followed by Camille SaintSaëns’s Violin Concerto No. 3, followed by Le Tombeau de Couperin, one of Ravel’s most refined pieces, and ending with the Suite from Georges Bizet’s Carmen. 1 March
20.30. 2 March 18.00. Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica.
5 MARCH
Jaap van Zweden conducts the Hong Kong Philharmonic Orchestra, with pianist Alexandre Kantorow, performing music by Daniel Lo, Rachmaninoff and Mahler. Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica.
6 MARCH
Brahms Sextets op. 18 and op. 36. 20.30 Sala Sinopoli, Auditorium Parco della Musica.
13 MARCH
Violinist Barnabás Kelemen cellist Nicolas Altstaedt and pianist Alexander Lonquich perform music by Brahms. 20.30. Sala Sinopoli, Auditorium Parco della Musica.
Pianist Grigory Sokolov performs music by Bach, Chopin and Schumann. 20.30.Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica.
All concerts take place in the Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30. For details of tickets and performance times see S. Cecilia website, www.santacecilia.it.
7-16 MARCH
Teatro dell’Opera di Roma stages Salome, a one-act tragedy by Oscar Wilde, with music by Richard Strauss. The original version of the play was first published in French in 1893; an English translation was published a year later. Conducted by Marc Albrecht and directed by Barrie Kosky, the cast
The 2024 edition of the Maratona di Roma is set for Sunday 17 March.
The 42-km race begins and ends at the Colosseum, taking in around 30 landmarks on the way, from the Ro-
includes John Daszak as Erode, Katarina Dalayman as Erodiade and Lise Lindstrom as Salome. Teatro Costanzi, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.
Windgames: music by Tchaikovsky, choreography by Patrick De Bana. Women: music by Alexander MacKenzie and Sune Martin, choreography by Juliano Nunes. Playlist (Track 1, 2), ballet in one act, music by Peven Everett: Surely Shorty - Lion Babe: Impossible
man Forum to Castel S. Angelo and the Spanish Steps. Parallel to the main event there is the non-competitive “Stracittadina” 5-km fun run in the Circus Maximus area, and the charity Run4Rome relay race. The time limit for crossing the finish line is seven hours, and anyone who fails to reach the halfway mark within three and a half hours is required to give up. Those who last the distance are rewarded with a medal as well as a goody bag and
(Jax Jones Remix), choreography by William Forsythe. New production by Teatro dell’Opera di Roma. Teatro Costanzi, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.
www. runromethemarathon.com.
St Peter's Baldachin, the gilded bronze canopy that towers over the Vatican basilica's high altar, is being restored for the first time in 250 years. Designed by Baroque master Gian Lorenzo Bernini exactly four centuries ago, the Baldachin was commissioned by Pope Urban VIII, with work starting in 1624 and finishing nine years later. The restoration project, which will last about 10 months and cost €700,000, is being financed by the Order of the Knights of Columbus, the Vatican said. The monument, almost 29 metres high and weighing 63 tons, was installed directly under the dome of the basilica to mark the location of Saint Peter's tomb underneath. In the creation of the Baldachin, Bernini worked alongside his father Pietro and his brother Luigi, and was also assisted by his rival Francesco Borromini. The Vatican said that the restoration project will be completed in time for Jubilee Year 2025 and will not affect the liturgical celebrations of Pope Francis in the basilica.
Rome's seven catacombs open to the public will offer free guided tours on 2 March as part of the spring 2024 edition of Day of the Catacombs. The catacombs included in the initiative are those dedicated to S. Callisto, S. Sebastiano, Domitilla, Priscilla, S. Agnese, SS. Marcellino and Pietro, and S. Pancrazio. Organised by the Pontifical Commission for Sacred Archaeology, the seventh Giornata delle Catacombe has as its theme "From Remembrance to Prayer" which organisers say is "part of the preparatory journey" to Jubilee 2025. Catacombs were developed between the end of the second and start of the third century AD for the burial and funeral commemoration of Christians. Outside of Rome there are Christian catacombs
in several Italian regions including Lazio, Tuscany, Umbria, Abruzzo, Campania, Puglia, Sardinia and Sicily. The guided tours included in the Giornata della Catacombe on 2 March are free but advance booking is required. There will also be conferences and children's workshops on the day. Details can be found on the the "catacombeitalia" pages on Facebook and Instagram as well as the Giornata delle Catacombe website, www.catacombeditalia.va.
Pope Francis is to travel to the Venice Art Biennale on 28 April to visit the Holy See pavilion at the women's prison on the island of Giudecca. Francis will be the first pope to visit the Venice Art Biennale which was established in the Italian canal city in 1895. The last pope to visit Venice was Benedict XVI in 2011, with previous papal visits by John Paul II in 1985 and Paul VI in 1972, according to Vatican News. Titled With My Eyes, the Holy See pavilion is dedicated to the theme of human rights and people living on the margins of society, with the aim of drawing attention to those who are routinely unnoticed or ignored. The Holy See first participated in the Venice Art Biennale in 2013 with the Genesis-inspired pavilion entitled In the Beginning. Curated by Adriano Pedrosa, the 60th edition of the International Art Biennale of Venice bears the title Stranieri Ovunque (Foreigners Everywhere) and takes place from 20 April until 24 November.
Andy Devane
The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city There are also concerts in many of the churches and sometimes in the museums.
Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it
Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com
Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct
Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct
Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct
Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it
Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct
Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com
Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it
RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it
Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com
Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com
RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it
Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are at Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others are at the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Roma Tre, Via Ostienze 234, www.r30.org
Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com
There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome.
Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are at Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others are at the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Roma Tre, Via Ostienze 234, www.r30.org
All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org
There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome.
All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org
Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com
Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7
Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com
Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7
St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it
S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona
St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it
S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com
The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for weekly updates.
Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767
The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for weekly updates.
Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361
Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767
Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361
Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it
Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 068553485
Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it
Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 068553485
Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com
Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825
Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com
Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230
Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825
Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361
Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230
Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361
Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068
Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116
Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068
Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361
Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116
Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111
Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361
Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111
Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111
Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111
Teatro Costanzi, Teatro Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, ww
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it
Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it
Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it
Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.
Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.
Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it
Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it
Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com
Live Alcazar, Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com
Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com
Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604
Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org
www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it
Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org
Atlantico, Viale dell’Oceano Atlantico 271d, tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it
Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com
Atlantico, Viale dell’Oceano Atlantico 271d, tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it
Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it
Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www auditorium.com
Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it
Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net
Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net
Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it
Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it
Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it
Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it
Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it
Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it
Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net
Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net
Live Alcazar, Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com
Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it
Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it
PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it
PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it
Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com
Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com
Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com
Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com
Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com
Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it
Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, www.teatrosangenesio.it
Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 www.teatrosangenesio.it
Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it
Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it
Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.teatrovascello.it
Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel. 065898031, www.teatrovascello.it
Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it
Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it
By Kate Zagorski
The Roman take on gnocchi is a far cry from the pillowy potato dumplings usually associated with the name. Golden medallions made of semolina our, milk, butter and parmesan are layered, covered with more butter and cheese, and baked in the oven until crisp to create a soul-nourishing bowl of comfort.
Interestingly, the use of ingredients such as butter and parmesan rather than the local Lazio olive oil and pecorino cheese, suggests that there was a northern in uence on the recipe’s origins, perhaps from Piemonte, but nowadays, as the name con rms, the dish has earned its deserved place in the catalogue of cucina romana.
The dough is simple and, as it needs time to cool in the fridge, can be made in advance. The basic recipe calls for the gnocchi to be covered with butter and parmesan before baking but the version below takes it a step further by also using fresh sage and garlic (if desired) to add extra avour and aroma.
(Serves 4)
250g semolina our
125g butter
1 litre milk
2 egg yolks
140g parmesan, grated
1 bunch fresh sage
1 clove garlic (optional)
Salt
Nutmeg
• Heat the milk in a saucepan along with 25g of the butter, a pinch of salt and a generous grating of nutmeg. Once the milk begins to boil, gradually add the semolina our, whisking continuously to avoid any lumps forming. Keep stirring the mixture over a low heat for a few minutes until it begins to thicken. Remove from the heat and stir in the egg yolks with a spoon. Add 100g of the parmesan and mix well until everything is combined.
• Pour the mixture onto a sheet of baking paper, divide into two and roll each piece with your ngers to form two long cylinders about 5cm wide. Roll each piece separately in baking paper and place in the fridge for at least half an hour to cool completely. When you are ready to bake the gnocchi, heat the oven to 200°C and grease a baking dish.
• Take the cylinders out of the fridge, remove the baking paper and use a sharp, wet knife to cut them into circular medallions about 1cm thick. Meanwhile heat the remaining butter in a small saucepan with a few fresh sage leaves and a whole clove of garlic (if desired). Once the butter has melted and infused, discard the garlic leaving the sage leaves.
• Layer the gnocchi all over the base of the baking dish, overlapping them slightly. Pour the sage butter all over the surface of the gnocchi, sprinkle over the remaining parmesan and top with a few more fresh sage leaves.
• Bake in the oven for 15-20 minutes until the top is golden and crispy. Serve immediately.
It’s difficult to dine out on a delicious fish supper without breaking the bank, which is why we have put together this list of five small osterie and trattorie that serve high quality and fairly priced fish dishes.
S. LORENZO
DA FRANCO AR VICOLETTO
At Franco al Vicoletto in S. Lorenzo you can enjoy simple fresh fish dishes. There’s a set menu costing between €25 to €30 or you can order from the à la carte menu. The ‘Tiberio’ menu starting at €25 includes a mixed seafood salad, sautéed mussels and clams, fried vegetables and anchovies with octopus, a mixed fish grill, lemon sorbet and a quarter of a litre of house wine.
TRASTEVERE
PEPPO AL COSIMATO
Peppo al Cosimato serves traditional peasant fish recipes. The eatery opened on Via Natale del Grande in 2017 under the former owners of Caffè Perù. Among the dishes on offer, you can enjoy bruschette with marinated anchovies and mackerel (€3), lasagne with cuttlefish (€10), and the catch of the day (€14). It’s a large restaurant with an outdoor terrace.
PIGNETO
LA SANTERIA DI MARE
This locally named ‘pizzicheria di pesce' (fish delicatessen) in Pigneto has a laid back, retro feel. We highly recommend the fish pagnotelle (small round loaves) for €10 and the greater amberjack fish alla cacciatore for €12.
TORMARANCIA
LA VONGOLA VORACE
This small trattoria serving fish in Tormarancia offers, among many dishes, a fish trio (panzanella salad with shell fish, cured salmon and marinated anchovies) and pici (pasta) with clams for €10.
APPIO AND BARBERINI
LA PESCERIA RE DI ROMA E BARBERINI
This fantastic fishmonger has both a small restaurant and a street food stall. You choose your preferred fish at the bar and then sit down to eat. The spaghetti alle vongole for €12.50, fried calamari for €10.50 and fish balls for €9.50 come highly recommended.
www.puntarellarossa.it
Da Franco Ar Vicoletto, Via Dei Falisci 2, tel. 064957675.
La Santeria di Mare, Via Del Pigneto 209, tel. 0689230730.
Peppo al Cosimato, Via Natale del Grande 9, tel. 065812048.
La Vongola Vorace, Largo Luigi Antonelli 15, tel. 0631055314.
La Pesceria Re di Roma, Via Appia 234, tel. 3938834361.
La Pesceria Barberini, Via di S. Nicola da Tolentino 23, tel. 0642903789.
American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org
American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org
Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com
Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com
Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli
Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net
Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com
Daughters of the American Revolution
Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com
The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.
Almost Corner Bookshop
Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942
Anglo American Bookshop
Via delle Vite 27, tel. 066795222
Bibliothèque Centre Culturel
Saint-Louis de France (French)
Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it
La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French)
Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com
Libreria Feltrinelli International
Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it
All Saints’ Anglican Church
Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881
Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30
Anglican Centre
Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com
Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org
Bible Baptist Church
Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00
Christian Science Services
Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425
Church of All Nations
Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464
Church of Sweden
Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)
International Women’s Club of Rome
tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it
Irish Club of Rome
irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org
Luncheon Club of Rome
tel. 3338466820
Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums
tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org
Professional Woman’s Association
www.pwarome.org
United Nations Women’s Guild
tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com
Welcome Neighbor
tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com
Libreria Quattro Fontane (international)
Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484
Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish)
Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it
Open Door Bookshop
(second hand books English, French, German, Italian)
Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com
Otherwise
Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com
Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian
South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it
International Central Gospel Church
Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695
International Christian Fellowship
Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community
Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061
Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas
Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761
Lutheran Church
Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German)
Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church
Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30
Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic)
Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00
Roma Baptist Church
Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service
10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese)
Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara
Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091
Rome International Church
Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org
Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico)
Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258
St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church
Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00
St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic)
Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00
Support groups
Alcoholics Anonymous
tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com
Archè
(HIV+children and their families)
tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it
Associazione Centro Astalli
(Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306
Associazione Ryder Italia
(Support for cancer patients and their families)
tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it
Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment)
tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it
Caritas soup kitchen
(Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily
Caritas foreigners’ support centre
Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554
Caritas hostel
Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235
Caritas legal assistance
Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369
Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680
• Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it
• Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it
• Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it
• Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994
• Traffic info tel. 1518
• Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it
St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00
St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org
Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30
St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal)
Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic)
Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30
Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00
Comunità di S. Egidio
Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234
Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen
Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027
Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre
St Paul’s within-the-Walls
Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339
Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it
Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772
Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza)
Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri”
Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351
Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104
The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022
Chiamaroma
24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606
• Ambulance tel. 118
• Carabinieri tel. 112
• Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336
• Fire brigade tel. 115
• Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999
• Police tel. 113
• Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355