Wanted in Rome - May 2023

DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini

EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9

PROGETTO GRAFICO: Dali Studio Srl

IMPAGINAZIONE: Simona Castellari

STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c.

DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985.

Finito di stampare il 30/04/2023

CURRENTLY SUSPENDED

Copies are on sale at:

Newsstands in Rome

Anglo American Bookstore, Via della Vite 27

Wanted in Rome, Via di Monserrato 49

Wanted in Rome

Via di Monserrato 49 - tel. 066867967

advertising@wantedinrome.com

editorial@wantedinrome.com

www.wantedinrome.com

www.wantedinmilan.com

CONTENTS

4

HOW

26 EXHIBITIONS

30 opera

8

US-BORN PRINCESS EVICTED FROM HISTORIC ROME VILLA

ROME SHAPED MODERN DIPLOMACY

HOW ROME SHAPED MODERN DIPLOMACY

ROME'S EMBASSIES HAVE HELD SIGNIFICANT SWAY WITHIN THE CITY FOR CENTURIES

When an out-of-pocket diplomat named Niccolò Machiavelli came to Rome in 1503, the city was a hotspot of intrigue, information gathering and spying. Here, he would have picked up some of the important lessons that would go on to fill the pages of his notorious but often misunderstood book, The Prince, which he published a decade later. It’s a book about greasing palms, exploiting weaknesses, and generally on how to get ahead in modern day diplomacy with the right doses of cunning, fortune and virtue.

Diplomacy, as Machiavelli attests to, has a long history in Italy. This is particularly the case in Rome where it has helped shape the city we know today.

In the late Middle Ages and early Renaissance period, Italy was dissected into a number of separate states. Wars were common. So in order to maintain a balance of power, rulers saw the need for crafty diplomatic interactions. They sent out envoys, who were usually the younger sons of aristocratic families - as well as their cook to stop them being poisoned. Rome, which was ruled over by the popes and the centre of Catholic Europe, became a cauldron for diplomacy. The popes, for example, were the first to create a diplomatic corps where they would address the envoys jointly. Soon after, countries such as Spain and France began to send permanent representatives to the city, giving rise to modern diplomacy with its unique customs and traditions.

Charles Seymour

France's embassy to Italy in Piazza Farnese, Rome. Photo credit: JJFarq / Shutterstock.com.

One needs only to wander through the streets of Rome today and stumble over some of the grand embassies with their soaring baroque façades to appreciate how diplomacy shaped the modern city. Here are three to watch out for:

Embassy of Spain to the Holy See (Piazza di Spagna)

Having just celebrated its 400-year anniversary, the Spanish embassy to the Holy See is said to be the oldest embassy in the world.

When the Spanish monarchy first rented the Monaldeschi palace in 1622, located at the southern-end in what is now Piazza di Spagna, the area was nothing more than a resting place for horse-drawn carriages arriving in the city from the northern Porta del Popolo. Weary visitors, eagerly anticipating their first glimpse of the Eternal City, would have been greeted by a few vines and some old grassy Roman ruins.

Spain, a Catholic super-power, had been sending envoys to Rome since at least the 1400s but by the early 17th century its diplomatic retinue had swelled to around 200 people. Spanish diplomats therefore needed an official permanent residence and the Monaldeschi palace seemed to fit the bill.

They eventually purchased the palace for 22,000 Roman escudos, a sum that could support four people for a month. The Count of Oñate commissioned architect Francesco Borromini to completely remodel the building, creating an entrance gallery, the vault of the main hall, the courtyard and an imposing square staircase.

Once the renovations were complete, the palace became a royal court, where ambassadors could host royal guests, dignitaries and artists. Velázquez painted The Forge of Vulcan in what was once the embassy’s bakery and is now the laundry. It is this court that many of the elaborate diplomatic customs and habits of modern diplomacy were first initiated.

With the French owning the territory around the Pincio, up the hill, Piazza di Spagna

also became the site of lavish celebrations and parades paid for by the two states who saw these parties as a way of spreading the prestige of their respective kingdoms, and useful vehicles of propaganda and soft power.

Today the embassy is open for visit upon request via email. (Spain’s embassy to Italy is at Largo Fontanella di Borghese).

French embassy to Italy (Piazza Farnese)

Rising rent in Rome is a fact that is almost certainly lost on the bookkeepers buried within the bowels of the French treasury in Paris, who each month transfer just one euro of rent to the Italian state for Palazzo Farnese.

A stone’s throw from Campo de’ Fiori, the magisterial French embassy in Piazza Farnese is arguably one of the grandest buildings in the capital. With its marble fireplaces and columns, wall-to-wall frescoes, cavernous courtyard and priceless works by Michelangelo, Sangallo the Younger and Raffaello, the French pulled off the bargain of the century when they negotiated the terms of the rental from Mussolini in 1936.

Palazzo Farnese was originally built in 1517 and later expanded when Alessandro Farnese, a cardinal, became Pope Paul III in 1534. Construction was undertaken by architect Antonio da Sangallo but once he died, Michelangelo completed the palazzo, designing the second floor and the courtyard.

Spain's embassy to the Holy See in Piazza di Spagna. Photo credit: jmbf / Shutterstock.com.

After the unification of Italy, Palazzo Farnese became the home of the French embassy in Italy. However, when the Italian government tried to increase the rent in 1909, France decided it would be simpler to just buy the building outright. This infuriated the locals at the time, who feared losing one of their most prized buildings.

A newspaper at the time tried to reassure them, writing “France asked to buy the Farnese Palace, but not to take it home!” The deal was completed but Mussolini eventually bought the building back in 1936. He subsequently agreed to lease it to the French with the symbolic monthly payment for 99 years.

Today, the quiet area to the west and north of Piazza Farnese hosts some of the city’s most see-and-be-seen bars and restaurants. Palazzo Farnese is open to guided tours in English, Italian and French. Tickets should be bought well in advance here.

Embassy of the United Kingdom to Italy (Via XX Settembre)

Architecturally speaking, the British embassy, located next to the venerable Porta Pia, couldn’t be further from the Renaissance splendour and chicness of Palazzo Farnese. Tucked in next to the Aurelian Walls in the north of the city, this concrete fortress has more in common with the aesthetic of the designer of the Führerbunker than that of Michelangelo.

But there is a rugged handsomeness to the building’s brutalist architecture. Unashamedly modern, the edifice is set back and fronted by two shallow pools with

fountains. A causeway, offering a grand approach, leads to a courtyard. Then, a grand double staircase curves around the of what looks like a battleship to a piano nobile and the ambassador’s offices.

Designed by British architect Sir Basil Spence, it replaced the original embassy that was blown up by political terrorists was blown up in 1946 by political terrorists who opposed British policy towards Jewish migration in Palestine.

Spence had gained fame in the UK by rebuilding Coventry Cathedral which had been almost completely destroyed in the war. His style represented the defiance and optimism towards the future that characterised the post-war era in Britain. In Rome, Spence wanted to design the embassy in harmony with the historic Porta Pia, built to Michelangelo’s designs for Pius IV. The exterior of the embassy is made of blocks of travertine which were apparently suggested by the sturdy gate and its battlements.

However, when the embassy opened in 1971, critics largely felt Spence had not reached his full artistic potential as he had done in Coventry. The embassy staff at the time criticised the diamond‐ and triangle‐shaped offices for being too small and unattractive. Spence had faced similar criticisms for his designs before. In Glasgow, he designed tenement blocks based on the utopian principles of Le Corbusier, which were disliked by residents for being damp, cramped and generally pretty nasty. They were demolished in 1993 to cheers of delight.

Still ensconced in Spence’s hulking grey blocks, it is unclear whether the British diplomatic staff harbour similar complaints today. Only time will tell whether this modernist concrete bunker will celebrate its own 400-year anniversary or, who knows, maybe one day it will be yanked down to a Machiavellian cheer from its staff.

The embassy is not open to visitors but the ambassador’s residence, Villa Wolkonsky, recently opened its doors to visits for the FAI Giornate di Primavera initiative.

UK embassy to Italy on Via XX Settembre.

US-BORN PRINCESS EVICTED FROM HISTORIC ROME VILLA

CASINO DELL'AURORA AT CENTRE OF BITTER INHERITANCE DISPUTE

An American-born princess was evicted on 20 April from a historic Rome villa, her home for the last two decades, as a bitter inheritance battle with her stepsons took a dramatic turn.

Princess Rita Jenrette Boncompagni Ludovisi, 73, was escorted from the property by Carabinieri police, with her four poodles.

Andy Devane

Her eviction came after the 16th-century Casino di Villa Boncompagni Ludovisi, also known as Villa Aurora, failed to sell at a series of court-ordered auctions.

The legal dispute dates back to the death in 2018 of her late husband Prince Nicolò Boncompagni Ludovisi, whose family has owned the site near Via Veneto for the last 400 years.

Princess Rita Jenrette Boncompagni Ludovisi after being evicted on 20 April.

“I’m being brutally evicted from a home which I have lovingly taken care of for the last 20 years with my beloved husband” –Princess Rita said in a video posted hours before she was forced to leave the building –“It’s illegal, I think that it’s a travesty, this is a brutal ending, and unnecessary; it didn’t have to happen this way.”

“Someone said it’s because I’m a woman and I’m American, I don’t know,” the princess said, adding: “Of course it’s all about money, obviously.”

The eviction notice by Judge Miriam Iappelli to vacate the property – which houses the world’s only ceiling painting by Caravaggio – stems from two issues.

The first issue involves the collapse of a small section of the base of a travertine balustrade on an exterior wall on the property, resulting in the closure of an adjacent street. The second relates to unauthorised paying tours given by the princess who claimed the visits were to raise funds for maintenance of the site.

The inheritance dispute is between Prince Boncompagni Ludovisi’s three sons from his first marriage, and his third wife,

Princess Rita, who spent much of the last two decades renovating the 2,800-sqm property with her late husband.

The prince’s sons contested their father’s will, which the princess says entitles her to live in Villa Aurora for the rest of her life and, that if sold, the proceeds would be split between her and her stepsons.

After the two sides failed to reach an agreement, the courts ordered that the 11-bedroom building be put up for auction.

The art-filled villa was first put on the block in January 2022 with a price tag of €471 million, however despite the reserve being slashed several times since then there were no bidders.

The next auction, scheduled for 30 June, has an asking price of €145 million.

The courts stipulated that whoever purchases the property, which is protected by Italian cultural heritage laws, must spend a further €11 million on restoration costs.

The Italian state has a 60-day window to exercise its right of first refusal after a sale agreement to a private buyer.

Villa Aurora is home to Caravaggio's only ceiling mural.

Culture

Days before she was evicted Princess Rita appealed to Italy’s culture minister Gennaro Sangiuliano for the government to step in and “save” Villa Aurora, news agency Adnkronos reports.

A brief history of Casino dell’Aurora

Built in 1570, the villa has been owned since 1621 by the noble Ludovisi family whose ancestors include Popes Gregory XIII – who introduced the Gregorian calendar – and Gregory XV.

The six-storey building, expanded in 1858, was used originally as the family’s hunting lodge. The property was once part of Villa Ludovisi, a 30-hectare country retreat established by Cardinal Del Monte.

In the late 19th century the Ludovisi family sold the bulk of the estate during Rome’s construction boom, leading to the creation of the upmarket “Ludovisi” district.

Several of the villa’s rooms are frescoed by the Italian Baroque painter Guercino, including one in the main reception hall of the Roman goddess of dawn, Aurora, which gives the building its name.

The villa is also home to works by Bril, Domenichino, Pomarancio and Viola; a staircase by architect Carlo Maderno, who designed the façade of St Peter’s; and a stellar collection of ancient statues, including one attributed to Michelangelo.

However its most precious cultural asset is Caravaggio’s mural of Jupiter, Neptune and Pluto, the only known ceiling painting by the Baroque master, which was rediscovered in 1968.

Commissioned by Cardinal Del Monte, a diplomat and generous patron of the arts, the mural dates to 1597. It was painted in oils on plaster and features an allegorical scene reflecting the cardinal’s fascination with alchemy.

The work, measuring 2.75 metres wide, is in a small first-floor room that served as the cardinal’s alchemy laboratory.

Over the centuries the villa has hosted many

illustrious figures, from Galileo to Goethe, and was a important destination for visitors on the Grand Tour.

In his 1909 memoir Italian Hours, Henry James admired the villa’s rooms and its sweeping rooftop views over Rome.

The building sits in what was once part of the Horti Sallustiani, a grand Roman estate with landscaped gardens, on land originally owned by Julius Caesar.

Recent surveys commissioned by Princess Rita and her late husband suggest that the ground on which the villa is built is exceptionally rich in archaeological treasures from the Roman era.

Princess Rita is credited with restoring the property which just 15 years ago lay in an abandoned state. She also oversaw the digitalisation of the villa’s immense archive which can be seen on the www.villaludovisi. org website.

In a video filmed before his death five years ago, the late Prince Boncompagni Ludovisi said: “This house has come to be alive again, exclusively thanks to Rita.”

Casino di Villa Boncompagni Ludovisi, also known as Villa Aurora.

CELEBRATING 50 YEARS OF AMERICAN EDUCATION IN ITALY

Beaches

TOP 10

BEACHES NEAR ROME

For all you beach-lovers here is a selection of resorts within easy reach of Rome. Each one, ordered from north to south, o ers either stabilimenti (private beaches with entrance fees and changing facilities and refreshments) or spiaggia libera (free beach with the option to rent a lounge chair and/or umbrella), and all have children’s facilities.

S. MARINELLA

The northern-most beach on our list o ers a small strip of white sandy beach with the choice of setting up camp at either the stabilimenti or spiaggia libera. There are two trains per hour leaving from Termini station for S. Marinella station and the journey takes about one hour. Popular with wind-surfers.

S. SEVERA

Located about 50 km north of Rome and less than 10 km south of S. Marinella. Take one of the regular Civitavecchia trains from Rome and the beach is a ten-minute walk from the station. There are numerous stabilimenti, restaurants and spiaggia libera and it is also known for the Italia Surf Expo which takes place every July.

FREGENE

A former chic hotspot of the 1960s and 1970s, Fregene boasts long stretches of sand with both stabilimenti and spiaggia libera. Along the coast there is also a wide selection of family-oriented restaurants and less expensive tavole calde. Rome’s club scene tends to ock to Fregene and nearby Ostia (see below) in the summer months. Although Fregene isn’t the easiest place to reach by public transport, Cotral buses depart from Rome’s Valle Aurelia metro stop (line A) and the journey takes about one hour.

OSTIA/CANCELLI

Ostia and the Cancelli (gates) are along the coast nearest Rome. Ostia is loaded with often pricey and trendy stabilimenti, while the Cancelli o er free beaches equipped with restaurants and bathrooms. Public transport takes less than an hour and you can use the same metro/bus tickets for public transport in Rome. Take the 070 express bus from EUR, or the Roma-Lido train from Porta S. Paolo beside the Piramide metro station (line B). To reach the Cancelli get o at the last stop and take the 07 MARE bus until you reach the gates numbered 1, 2, 3 etc.

ANZIO/NETTUNO

These beaches are only ten minutes apart and are easily reached from Rome. One train per hour leaves from Termini station, stopping rst at Anzio and then at Nettuno. The journey takes 60-70 minutes and the beaches are about a 10-minute walk from the respective train stations.

SABAUDIA

Famous for its beauty and spaciousness. Although predominantly spiaggia libera, there are a few stabilimenti to choose from. Cotral buses run from Rome’s Laurentina metro stop (line B) to Piazza Oberdan in Sabaudia. From here take the shuttle bus which runs up and down the local coastline. Sabaudia is also known for its Mussolini-era architecture.

S. FELICE CIRCEO

Nearly 100 km south of Rome are the beaches and crystal clear waters of Circeo. Stabilimenti abound but look for the spiaggia libera nearest the port: it de nitely merits the mini-trek. Cotral buses leave for Circeo from the Laurentina metro station in Rome. Get o at the last stop and walk for ten minutes until you reach the beach.

TERRACINA

Located just 10 km south of Circeo. From Termini station take the hourly regional train for Naples and get o at Monte S. Biagio. From there, take the bus for about 20 minutes until you reach the beach. Terracina has as many spiagge libere as stabilimenti and both are well-kept and clean, making it a popular destination for families.

SPERLONGA

The stabilimenti dominate this gorgeous getaway with picturesque views, leaving only narrow strips for the spiaggia libera. Take the regional train headed to Naples from Termini station and get o at Fondi-Sperlonga. Once there, take the Piazzoli bus for 20 minutes to Sperlonga, alternatively take a private taxi but be warned they are far more expensive than the €1.50 bus ticket.

GAETA

This area has a quaint mediaeval town to explore and clean beaches. From Termini station take one of the frequent trains headed towards Naples, get o at Formia and take the bus for another 25 minutes until you reach Gaeta. For more information about transportation consult the Cotral and Trenitalia websites www.cotralspa.it, www.trenitalia.it.

Sabaudia S. Marinella

UK NATIONAL SETTLED IN ITALY BEFORE 1

JANUARY 2021?

Make sure your residency in Italy is easily recognised. Request your new Carta di Soggiorno Elettronica from your local Questura as soon as possible. And don’t get confused…it isn’t the same thing as your electronic ID card.

Find out more on gov.uk/livinginitaly

ARTandSEEK

English-language cultural workshops and visits to museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforkids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandseekforkids.com.

Bioparco

Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and o ers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it.

Bowling Silvestri

is sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.

ere are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com.

Casa del Parco

Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com.

Casina di Ra aello

Play centre in Villa Borghese o ering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Ra aello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadira aello.it.

Cinecittà World

is 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special e ects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it.

Climbing

Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, urs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473.

Explora

e 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it.

Go-karting

Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it.

Gymboree

is children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, o ering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it.

Hortis Urbis

Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it.

Il Nido

Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.

Luneur

Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it.

Rainbow Magicland

e 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it.

Time Elevator

A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. e time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it.

Zoomarine is amusement and aquatic park outside Rome o ers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

ROME'S MAJOR MUSEUMS

IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS DETAILS. IN SOME CASES RESERVATIONS ARE REQUIRED.

VATICAN MUSEUMS

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00.

Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS

Baths of Diocletian

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30.

Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna

Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

CITY MUSEUMS

Centrale Montemartini

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Capitoline Museums

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

MATTATOIO

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS

Casa di Goethe

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Chiostro Del Bramante

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

Galleria Colonna

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, rst Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.

Museo storico della Liberazione

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Palazzo Merulana

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www. -maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Multidisciplinary venue devoted to visual art, design, architecture and fashion design at Palazzo Brancaccio. Via Merulana 248, tel. 0631709949, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Del ni, Via dei Del ni 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespeci c exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pasti cio Cerere

This non-pro t foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pasti ciocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created speci cally for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at a ordable prices by artists working in various elds. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo

Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works speci cally for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-pro le international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Galleria Russo

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.

Galleria Varsi

A dynamic gallery promoting street culture and contemporary art movements. Via di A ogalasino 34, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Gavin Brown's Enterprise

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of di erent generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

La Nuova Pesa

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino d’Arte Moderna

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Monitor

This contemporary art gallery o ers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Nero Gallery

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.

Nomas Foundation

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Plus Arte Puls

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

Sala 1

This internationally known non-pro t contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

The Gallery Apart

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

TraleVolte

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

Von Buren Contemporary

Rome-based gallery specialising in a ordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via Giulia 13, tel. 3351633518, www.vonburencontemporary.com.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria o ers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

where to go in Rome WHAT’S ON

Infinity exhibition by Michelangelo Pistoletto at Chiostro del Bramante. See page 24.

EXHIBITIONS

MICHELANGELO PISTOLETTO: INFINITY 18 MARCH-15 OCT

Chiostro del Bramanate hosts an exhibition dedicated to Michelangelo Pistoletto, one of the main representatives of the Italian Arte Povera movement. The show serves as a retrospective spanning the 60-year career of the Italian painter and action artist who turns 90 this year. Infinity follows the successful run of collective shows Love, Enjoy, Dream and Crazy, and will once again be curated by Danilo Eccher who describes it as “a group exhibition by a single artist”. As suggested by its title, the exhibition proposes “an infinite number of ways of making art, an infinite number of ways of seeing, of changing perspective, of reading reality”, according to Chiostro del Bramante. Infinity comprises around 50 works and four large site-specific installations, dating from 1966 to 2023, including his celebrated Venere degli Stracci (Venus of the rags) and his mirror paintings. Chiostro del Bramante, Arco della Pace 5, www. chiostrodelbramante.it.

L’IMMAGINE SOVRANA: URBANO VIII E I BARBERINI 18 MARCH-30 JULY

On the 400th anniversary of the election to the papal throne of Urban VIII, Palazzo Barberini dedicates a major exhibition to the longest and most representative pontificate of the 17th century (1623-1644). The exhibition celebrates the cultural and political profile of the popeborn Maffeo Barberini in 1568who had a profound impact on philosophical thought, scientific knowledge and the arts of the 17th century. The exhibition highlights how the pontiff, together with his nephews Cardinals Francesco and Antonio and Prince Taddeo

Barberini, “tenaciously pursued an ambitious political-cultural project, which pervaded all areas of knowledge and artistic and cultural production”, according to the show’s organisers. A great patron of the arts, Urban VIII left an indelible stamp on Rome, promoting colossal undertakings such as the canopy of St Peter’s, designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, or the fresco by Pietro da Cortona in Palazzo Barberini. The exhibition reunites 80 works from the museum’s collection with 40 pieces from the original Barberini collection dispersed in major museums around the world. The show includes important works by Bernini, Caravaggio, Poussin, Sacchi and some of the spectacular tapestries produced by the Barberini Arazzeria. Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, www.barberinicorsini. org.

GIUSEPPE PENONE: UNIVERSAL GESTURES

14 MARCH-28 MAY

Rome's Borghese - home to masterpieces by Bernini, Canova and Caravaggio - will present the works of acclaimed contemporary Italian sculptor Giuseppe Penone in a major new exhibition including more than 30 works created by the artist between the 1970s and the early 2000s. Penone, 75, is associated with the Arte Povera movement and is known for his works that engage with poetry, nature and time using materials ranging from terracotta to iron. The exhibition, curated by Francesco Stocchi and sponsored by fashion house Fendi, involves the rooms of Galleria Borghese as well as its Gardens. The exhibition aims to investigate “the representation of nature in relation to the time of a historical past”, states Stocchi, describing it as “A dialogue of

Palazzo Barberini hosts L'immagine sovrana: Urbano VIII e i Barberini. Photo Alberto Novelli.

ideas and materials, in relation to a confrontation of forms and symbols, expressing all the vitality of human and plant nature.” In 2017 Fendi unveiled a permanent artwork by Penone outside its flagship store in Largo Goldini, just off Rome’s central Via del Corso, as a gift to the city. Galleria Borghese, Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5, www. galleriaborghese.beniculturali.it.

LA ROMA DELLA REPUBBLICA

13

JAN-24 SEPT

The Capitoline Museums presents an exhibition of Roman artefacts from the fifth century BC to the middle of the first century BC. Through a series of archaeological themes and contexts, the exhibition in Palazzo Cafarelli brings to life the characters and transformations of Roman society over the course of five centuries, from the birth of the republic to the creation of the empire. The roughly 1,800 artefacts

CLASSICAL

ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA

ECSTASY

4-6 MAY

Markus Stenz conducts the orchestra and chorus of the Accademia

Nazionale di S. Cecilia, with piano Andrei Korobeinikov, performing music by Rachmaninoff, Fauré and Skrjabin. 4 May 19.30, 5 May 20.30, 6 May 18.00. All concerts in Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica.

FAMILY CONCERT

7 MAY

Adriana Ferreira flute and Silvia Podrecca harp peform music by Saint-Saëns, Fauré, Marcel Tournier, Bernard Andrès, Ibert, Bizet, Eugène Bozza, Elio Pochettini, Nino Rota. Family concerts are aimed at a broad audience particularly young people

on display - made from terracotta, ceramics, bronze and stone - mostly come from municipal collections and many of them are usually hidden away in storage. Piazzale Caffarelli, www.museocapitolini.org.

VAN GOGH

8

OCT-7 MAY

Palazzo Bonaparte in the centre of Rome stages a major show of Van Gogh paintings. The exhibition comprises 50 works including a celebrated self portrait of the artist from 1887, three years before his death. All the works on display are from the Kröller Müller Museum in Otterlo in the Netherlands. The exhibition makes reference to the places where Van Gogh stayed, with a particular focus on the artist’s time in Paris. Alongside his celebrated self portrait, the exhibition includes The sower (June 1888), The hospital garden in Saint-Rémy (1889), The Ravine (1889) and Sorrowing old man

(1890). Located in Piazza Venezia, the 17th-century Palazzo Bonaparte is best known as the home of Maria Letizia Ramolino, Napoleon’s mother, who watched the world go by from the building’s green balcony from 1818 until her death in 1836. www.mostrepalazzobonaparte.it.

and preceded by “down-to-earth introductory chats that serve as straightforward, helpful listening guides.” Concerts last an hour at most, without intermission. Introduction at 11.30, concert 12.00. Sala Sinopoli, Auditorium Parco della Musica.

BACH: THE ART OF FUGUE

7 MAY

Soloists of the Accademia

Nazionale di Santa Cecilia perform The Art of Fugue by Bach. Carlo

Maria Parazzoli violin, Raffaele Mallozzi viola, Mauro Valli cello, Antonio Sciancalepore double bass, Francesco Bossone bassoon. Sala Sinopoli, 18.00.

A SURVIVOR FROM WARSAW

11-13 MAY

Mirga Grazynite-Tyla conducts the S. Cecilia Orchestra, with pianist Yuja Wang performing music by Beethoven, Lindberg and Weinberg.

11 May 19.30, 12 May 20.30, 13 May 18.00. All concerts Sala S. Cecilia.

La Roma della Repubblica exhibition at Palazzo Caffarelli.

Jakub Hrůša conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra, with viola Antoine Tamestit, in Transfigurations.

ROMANTIC SYMPHONY

18-20 MAY

Herbert Blomstedt conducts the S. Cecilia Orchestra, music by Schubert and Bruckner. 18 May 19.30, 19 May 20.30, 20 May 18.00. All concerts Sala S. Cecilia.

TRANSFIGURATIONS

27-28 MAY

Jakub Hrůša conducts the S. Cecilia Orchesta, with viola Antoine Tamestit, performing music by Strauss, Martinů and Martinů. 27 May 20.30, 28 May 18.00.

Concerts take place in the Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30. For full details of tickets and performance times see www.santacecilia.it.

OPERA

TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA LA FILLE MAL GARDEE

2-9 MAY

Philip Ellis directs this ballet presented in two acts, with choreography by Frederick Ashton. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, www.operaroma.it.

DA UNA CASA DI MORTI

23-30 MAY

For the first time, Teatro dell’Opera di Roma stages From the House of the Dead, an opera in three acts by Leoš Janáček. The libretto was translated and adapted by the composer from the 1862 novel by Fyodor Dostoevsky. It was the composer’s last opera and premiered on 12 April 1930 at the National Theatre Brno, two years after his death. The Rome production is staged in collaboration with London’s Royal Opera House. Dmitry Matvienko conducts the Teatro dell’Opera

di Roma orchestra and choir, and Krzysztof Warlikowski directs the production which is staged in its original language with

supertitles in Italian and English. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, www. operaroma.it.

Pianist Yuja Wang performs music by Beethoven, Lindberg and Weinberg in A Survivor from Warsaw

Teatro dell’Opera di Roma stages From the House of the Dead.

CARACALLA FESTIVAL 30 MAY-10 AUG

Teatro dell’Opera di Roma has unveiled a bumper programme for its summer festival among the ancient Roman ruins at the Baths of Caracalla. In addition to opera, the festival will include a range of genres, from symphonic music, dance and theatre to cinema, jazz and pop concerts. The Caracalla Festival programme spans more than 50 evenings from 30 May until 10 August, with new the Teatro del Portico space reserved for cinema, jazz and theatre.

Noting the “extraordinary turnout” of more than 110,000 spectators last year, Rome mayor Roberto Gualtieri said the 2023 festival offers “an even richer and more varied programme for a unique stage in the world such as Caracalla.”

Francesco Giambrone, superintendent of the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, said the aim of this year’s programme is to “create an interdisciplinary festival based on the juxtaposition of genres.” Giambrone also said the festival is “dedicated in many ways to Giuseppe Verdi” amid the nationwide Viva Verdi fund-raising campaign to help the state buy Villa Verdi, the museum and former home of the celebrated Italian opera composer Giuseppe Verdi.

The summer festival kicks off with a series of pop concerts, beginning with Zucchero (30-31 May, 2-4 June); Fiorella Mannoia and Danilo Rea on 1 June; Venditti-De Gregori on 5, 7, 8, 15 June; Andrea Bocelli on 10 June; the Negramaros on 13, 14, 16 June; and Massimo Ranieri on 24 July.

The festival programme will be inaugurated officially however on 23 June with the world premiere of the restored version of Charlie Chaplin’s The Great Dictator with the soundtrack performed live by the Teatro dell’Opera orchestra, conducted by Timothy Brock.

OPERA

The festival celebrates Verdi with two masterpieces: La traviata (21 July-9 Aug) in the 2018 staging by Lorenzo Mariani which sets the Parisian story in the 1960s Dolce Vita era, paying homage to Federico Fellini’s Rome. This is followed by Rigoletto (3-10 Aug) in the staging by Damiano Michieletto which sets it in an imaginary criminal world.

DANCE

The dance proposal opens with Strictly Gershwin (1-4 July) described as “a joyful and overwhelming musical” featuring étoiles, principal dancers, soloists and the Ballet of the Rome Opera, directed by Eleonora Abbagnato. The show, a tribute to George Gershwin and his music by choreographer and director Derek Deane, will be conducted by Michael England with Alessandro Taverna on piano.

The summer programme at the Baths of Caracalla would not be complete without Roberto Bolle and Friends, over three nights (1113 July), with the Gran Gala starring the guest stars Maia Makhateli and Jacopo Tissi accompanied by many others.

SYMPHONY

The symphonic proposal is represented by a masterpiece: the Symphony n. 9 by Beethoven which will be conducted on 9 July by Myung-Whun Chung, with the Teatro dell’Opera orchestra and chorus, directed by Ciro Visco, and

the solo voices of Olga Bezsmertna, Sara Mingardo, Giovanni Sala and Roberto Tagliavini.

THEATRE

There will be a theatrical performance: The glasses of Šostakovič by Valerio Cappelli, who is also the director, on 5-6 July, dedicated to the great Russian composer, played by Moni Ovadia, with projections and live music.

CINEMA

The film festival is also dedicated to Verdi, which brings to light littleknown films inspired by the figure and works of the great composer, from 26 June to 3 July.

JAZZ

For jazz fans, the Stefano Di Battista Quartet performs on 31 July, with “Morricone stories jazz”; three aperitif-concerts designed to be followed also by spectators of the opera on stage the same evening, on 2, 4 and 6 August; and an evening with the Cutello Brothers entitled “New generation”, on 7 August.

PHOTO EXHIBITION

The Baths of Caracalla pays tribute to the great photographer Letizia Battaglia through an exhibition of photographs and documents from the start of her career between Milan and Palermo up to her final work before her death last year.

For full details see Teatro dell’Opera di Roma website, www. operaroma.it.

Opera at the Baths of Caracalla. Photo Fabrizio Sansoni / Teatro dell'Opera di Roma.

ITALY ADDS THREE FREE MUSEUM DATES

Italy is to open state museums and archaeological parks for free on three new “symbolic” dates, culture minister Gennaro Sangiuliano announced. The three dates are 25 April for Festa della Liberazione and 2 June for Festa della Repubblica – both of which are public holidays – and 4 November for National Unity and Armed Forces Day, which is a national day but not a public holiday. Sangiuliano confirmed that the three dates will be added to the Domenica al Museo programme of free museum openings on the first Sunday of each month.

beauty of the Vatican collections illuminated by the moon that reflects the dome of St Peter’s Basilica.” For details including ticket prices see Vatican Museums website, www.museivaticani.va.

CVTà STREET FEST RETURNS TO MOLISE

The eighth edition of CVTà Street Fest takes place in the village of Civitacampomarano, in the heart of the Campobasso countryside in Italy’s Molise region, from 2-4 June. The festival comprises three days of mural painting, street art tours, live music and workshops, once again under the artistic direction of the celebrated Roman street artist Alice Pasquini. The idea behind the annual street art festival is to breathe new life into the largely abandoned village whose 300 mainly elderly residents embrace the thousands of visitors that arrive each June. This year’s special guests - Elléna Lourens from South Africa, Helen Bur from the UK, Hera from Germany and Dan Witz from the US - will create permanent art works over the course of the three-day festival. For full details see website, www.cvtastreetfest.it.

VATICAN MUSEUMS STAY OPEN LATE

The Vatican Museums will stay open late every Friday and Saturday evening until 28 October 2023, the Vatican has announced. The opening hours at the museums will be extended every Friday until 22.30, with last entry at 20.30, and on Saturdays until 20.00, with last entry at 18.00. Online booking is mandatory and the ticket price includes a special concert programme. There is also the option of booking a “happy hour” aperitivo in the Cortile della Pigna. “There is nothing more astonishing” – said Barbara Jatta, director of the Vatican Museums – “than to immerse oneself in the

ITALY UNVEILS BOTTICELLI VENUS AS TOURISM AMBASSADOR

Italy’s tourism authorities have come in for heavy criticism for a promotional campaign with the goddess Venus by Renaissance master Sandro Botticelli as the country’s new tourism ambassador. Titled “Open to Meraviglia” (meaning Open to Wonder), the €9 million campaign depicts Venus in the guise of a talking “virtual influencer”, complete with cell phone. Critics say the campaign is tacky and there was an outcry after it was revealed that part of the promo video was filmed in Slovenia. Venus, known as Venere in Italian, presents Italy’s wonders to the world, from iconic landmarks and landscapes to art cities and smaller destinations. Italian food and wine also features in the interactive campaign which shows Venus eating a slice of pizza by the shores of Lake Como.

Andy Devane

Akut, Civitacampomarano, 2022. Photo © Ian Cox.

Galleria Borghese. Photo credit: silverfox999 / Shutterstock.com.

Vatican Museums. Photo: Blue Planet Studio / Shutterstock.com.

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city There are also concerts in many of the churches and sometimes in the museums.

Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com

Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct

Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct

Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct

Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it

Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct

Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com

Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it

MUSIC THE A TRE CINEMA VENUES

TRE MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

classical cinema

RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it

Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com

Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com

RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it

Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are at Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others are at the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Roma Tre, Via Ostienze 234, www.r30.org

Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com

cinema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for weekly updates.

Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for weekly updates.

Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361

Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767

There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome.

Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are at Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others are at the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Roma Tre, Via Ostienze 234, www.r30.org

All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org

There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome.

All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 068553485

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 068553485

Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com

Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825

Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com

Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230

Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825

Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361

Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230

St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it

Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7

S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona

St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it

S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com

Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361

Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068

Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116

Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068

Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361

Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116

Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111

Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361

Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111

Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, ww

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it

dance opera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it

dance opera

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

rock pop

rock pop

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com

Live Alcazar, Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com

Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org

Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it

Atlantico, Viale dell’Oceano Atlantico 271d, tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com

Atlantico, Viale dell’Oceano Atlantico 271d, tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www auditorium.com

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it

Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it

Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it

Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it

Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it

Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it

Live Alcazar, Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com

PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it

Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it

PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it

Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com

Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com

Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com

Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com

Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, www.teatrosangenesio.it

Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 www.teatrosangenesio.it

Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it

Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel. 065898031, www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it

Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

By Kate Zagorski

FETTUCCINE AGLIO, OLIO, BACCALA ` E PECORINO

Baccalà is cod which has been preserved by first salting and then drying so the crusty hunks of fish must be rehydrated and desalted by soaking them in cold water for at least 24 hours with regular rinsing.

In Rome baccalà is traditionally eaten on a Friday when it will generally be served with ceci (chickpeas, which also need a good soak before cooking). The rinsing and cleaning is a bit of a fuss so many of the city’s delicatessens will sell ready-soaked fillets of baccalà on Thursdays and Friday; look out for them by the doorway, submerged in large tanks of water. The bright white fillets are often prepared either pan-fried or baked, while Rome’s takeaway shops and pizzerie will serve them battered and deep fried.

This recipe blends the tradition of baccalà with the classic pasta recipe of aglio, olio e peperoncino (oil, garlic and chili) and mixes the cod with a hefty sprinkling of pecorino romano to thicken the sauce. Romans are usually horrified by the idea of pairing fish and cheese together but this recipe is a good way to convince them that it works perfectly.

Pair the dish with a well-structured dry white wine which will stand up to the strong flavours of baccalà and pecorino. A good local choice from Lazio is the organic white Capolemole by Marco Carpineti.

Ingredients

Serves 2

• 250g of desalted baccalà (about 1 large fillet)

• 180g fresh fettuccine

• 1 clove of garlic

• 1 fresh red chili

• 2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley

• Half a glass of white wine

• 2 handfuls of grated pecorino romano

• Extra virgin olive oil

The first thing to do is taste the baccalà, occasionally it is not completely desalted so if this is the case rinse it in cold running water for a few minutes to remove the excess salt. Chop the baccalà into small cubes and finely chop the parsley, chili and garlic. Heat a generous splash of olive oil in a non-stick pan and gently fry the garlic and chilli until soft, then add the parsley and baccalà. The baccalà will lose some liquid, once this has begun to dry out add the white wine and cook for a few more minutes until the alcohol has evaporated. Make sure there is still some liquid left in the pan.

Meanwhile cook the pasta. A couple of minutes before the end of cooking time, drain, add to the frying pan and finish cooking in the sauce until al dente.

Once the pasta is cooked turn off the heat and add the pecorino, stirring all the while, to thicken the sauce. Serve immediately.

The best cheap seafood in rome

It’s difficult to dine out on a delicious fish supper without breaking the bank, which is why we have put together this list of five small osterie and trattorie that serve high quality and fairly priced fish dishes.

S. LORENZO

DA FRANCO AR VICOLETTO

At Franco al Vicoletto in S. Lorenzo you can enjoy simple fresh fish dishes. There’s a set menu costing between €25 to €30 or you can order from the à la carte menu. The ‘Tiberio’ menu starting at €25 includes a mixed seafood salad, sautéed mussels and clams, fried vegetables and anchovies with octopus, a mixed fish grill, lemon sorbet and a quarter of a litre of house wine.

TRASTEVERE PEPPO AL COSIMATO

Peppo al Cosimato serves traditional peasant fish recipes. The eatery opened on Via Natale del Grande in 2017 under the former owners of Caffè Perù. Among the dishes on offer, you can enjoy bruschette with marinated anchovies and mackerel (€3), lasagne with cuttlefish (€10), and the catch of the day (€14). It’s a large restaurant with an outdoor terrace.

PIGNETO

LA SANTERIA DI MARE

This locally named ‘pizzicheria di pesce' (fish delicatessen) in Pigneto has a laid back, retro feel. We highly recommend the fish pagnotelle (small round loaves) for €10 and the greater amberjack fish alla cacciatore for €12.

TORMARANCIA

LA VONGOLA VORACE

This small trattoria serving fish in Tormarancia offers, among many dishes, a fish trio (panzanella salad with shell fish, cured salmon and marinated anchovies) and pici (pasta) with clams for €10.

APPIO AND BARBERINI

LA PESCERIA RE DI ROMA E BARBERINI

This fantastic fishmonger has both a small restaurant and a street food stall. You choose your preferred fish at the bar and then sit down to eat. The spaghetti alle vongole for €12.50, fried calamari for €10.50 and fish balls for €9.50 come highly recommended.

Da Franco Ar Vicoletto, Via Dei Falisci 2, tel. 064957675.

La Santeria di Mare, Via Del Pigneto 209, tel. 0689230730.

Peppo al Cosimato, Via Natale del Grande 9, tel. 065812048.

La Vongola Vorace, Largo Luigi Antonelli 15, tel. 0631055314.

La Pesceria Re di Roma, Via Appia 234, tel. 3938834361.

La Pesceria Barberini, Via di S. Nicola da Tolentino 23, tel. 0642903789.

Associations

American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org

American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org

Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com

Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com

Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli

Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net

Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com

Daughters of the American Revolution

Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

Books

The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

Almost Corner Bookshop

Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942

Anglo American Bookshop

Via delle Vite 27, tel. 066795222

Bibliothèque Centre Culturel

Saint-Louis de France (French)

Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it

La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French)

Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com

Libreria Feltrinelli International

Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Religious

All Saints’ Anglican Church

Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881

Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30

Anglican Centre

Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com

Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org

Bible Baptist Church

Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00

Christian Science Services

Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425

Church of All Nations

Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464

Church of Sweden

Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

International Women’s Club of Rome

tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it

Irish Club of Rome

irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org

Luncheon Club of Rome

tel. 3338466820

Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums

tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org

Professional Woman’s Association

www.pwarome.org

United Nations Women’s Guild

tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com

Welcome Neighbor

tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international)

Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484

Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish)

Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it

Open Door Bookshop

(second hand books English, French, German, Italian)

Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com

Otherwise

Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com

Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it

International Central Gospel Church

Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695

International Christian Fellowship

Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00

Jewish Community

Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061

Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas

Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761

Lutheran Church

Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German)

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church

Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic)

Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00

Roma Baptist Church

Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service

10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese)

Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara

Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091

Rome International Church

Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org

Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico)

Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258

St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church

Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00

St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic)

Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups

Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com

Archè

(HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it

Associazione Centro Astalli

(Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306

Associazione Ryder Italia

(Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it

Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it

Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily

Caritas foreigners’ support centre

Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554

Caritas hostel

Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235

Caritas legal assistance

Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369

Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport

• Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it

• Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it

• Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it

• Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994

• Traffic info tel. 1518

• Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic)

Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00

St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org

Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30

St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal)

Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish)

St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic)

Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30

Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00

Comunità di S. Egidio

Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234

Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen

Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027

Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre

St Paul’s within-the-Walls

Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339

Mason Perkins Deafness Fund

(Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it

Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772

Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza)

Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri”

Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351

Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104

The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma

24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers

• Ambulance tel. 118

• Carabinieri tel. 112

• Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336

• Fire brigade tel. 115

• Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999

• Police tel. 113

• Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355