Wanted in Rome - November 2022

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History

100 YEARS SINCE MUSSOLINI’S MARCH ON ROME

THE LEGACY OF THAT FATEFUL EVENT IN 1922 LIVES ON, AMID RENEWED POLITICAL INTENSITY

Charles Seymour

ROME: 100 years ago, ragged fascist squads converged on the outskirts of the capital, ready to seize power on behalf of their leader Benito Mussolini.

In the face of the marchers’ supposed fascist might, the Italian liberal government had resolved

to reply with force. Italy’s prime minister Luigi Facta hurried to the Quirinal Palace to get King Victor Emmanuel III to sign a decree of martial law. This would have deployed the army to defend the city from the fascists, but the anticipated battle for Rome did not materialise.

Emilio De Bono (second from left), Benito Mussolini (centre), Italo Balbo and Cesare Maria De Vecchi during the March on Rome in 1922.

History

In what would become a historic loss of nerve, the weak King Victor Emmanuel III overruled his prime minister’s request to declare a state of siege and simply installed Mussolini as the leader of the government – no actual coup d’état was required.

On 28 October 2022 Italy marked the centenary of the March of Rome. It was a significant milestone in Italy’s modern history, not least because it was the birth of the fascist dream but it also paved the way for the rise of a totalitarian evolution that would spread across Europe, perhaps most seriously and consequently to Germany ten years later.

In a twist of historical coincidence, this year the event has renewed political intensity. The anniversary fell on the week in which Giorgia Meloni assumed her responsibility as prime minister, becoming the first far-right leader of Italy since the world war two. It was a week in which Italy’s fascist past seemed to collide with its present.

Sitting in his office at the National Association of Italian Partisans, ANPI, in the Prati district of Rome, Fabrizio De Sanctis says: “The March on Rome is a very important day to remember.

De Sanctis is the president of the local Rome section of ANPI, the organisation set up by members of the Italian Resistance in 1945 to preserve the memory of the partisans’ fierce battle with fascism during world war two. Today, as Italy continues to stumble through endless economic and political crises, he sees his work as important as ever.

“It’s vital to continue to reinforce antifascist safeguards. Fascists came to power in Italy during a deep social crisis… and today we can see a very large crisis looming too,” he says.

He is not wrong. In the months leading up to Mussolini’s fateful power grab, the pre-fascist political leadership had lost confidence in itself. The country was actually on the brink of civil war. Four fears of left-wing and then right-wing unrest had left the establishment, especially King Victor Emmanuel III, weary.

De Sanctis recognises that the parallels end there. Comparisons of the past often obscure the realities of the present. Nevertheless, occasional outbursts of right-wing violence, such as the

First and foremost in order that we don’t have to relive it.”

Italo Balbo (second from left), Emilio De Bono (third from left), and Mussolini (centre) in Rome, October 1922.

assault of the CGIL trade union headquarters in Rome on 9 October 2021 and the right-wing mass media, pose new challenges to the work of antifascists like De Sanctis.

Unlike in countries such as Germany and Japan, there can be a somewhat slack, even indulgent attitude to Mussolini’s fascism in Italy. The anniversary of the March of Rome is often commemorated by vigils, ceremonies and demonstrations by those on the right, as well as protests on the left.

This is partly because neo-fascists today venerate the revolutionary mythology of the day: the march represents a thread linking Mussolini to their modern reactionary and revolutionary politics.

Speaking on the phone with the president of the extreme right and proudly fascist group Azione Frontale, Ernesto Moroni, tells me that: “The March of Rome is the emblem of fascism - it’s the revolutionary founding principle that united the country.”

But as recounted today, 28 October 1922 was less of a heroic revolutionary enterprise and more of a low-key excursion by a ragtag group of blackshirts who arrived mostly by train. Far from being at the vanguard of the conquest of power, Mussolini had actually hung back in Milan, ready to flee the country to Switzerland if the march failed.

For Dr Giorgio Potì, of The American University of Rome, “fascist mythology presents the day as a revolution but in reality, there was almost no subversive potential in the march - it could

easily have been crushed by the king...Mussolini became prime minister in perfect compliance with Italy’s political system.”

This is not something to underestimate. The success of the March of Rome was in large part thanks to the silent acquiescence of much of the establishment: the church, the judiciary, the army, and most importantly the monarchy, who saw Mussolini as a lesser evil than socialism.

A recent documentary by filmmaker Mark Cousins, entitled The March on Rome (2022), relates this complacency with America’s Capitol riots, and the concession that Donald Trump was hoping to force in 2021.

On the hundred-year milestone, Italians are forced to reflect on the legacy of the March of Rome. There is a conspicuous uneasiness about the anniversary.

Giorgia Meloni, who once described Mussolini as the best politician of the last 50 years, is very eager to distance herself from the fascist regime. In her first speech as prime minister, on 25 October, Meloni issued her strongest condemnation of fascism, saying she had never sympathised with anti-democratic regimes.

It is clear the prime minister is trying to make the tricky reconciliation between her position as a stateswoman of the West with her cultural identity in the far right. In light of the historical political week, the burning question is whether she will go far enough.

Mussolini addressing crowds outside Palazzo Venezia in Rome.

Culture

CANOVA: ITALY REMEMBERS NEOCLASSICAL GENIUS

2022 MARKS BICENTENARY OF ANTONIO CANOVA’S DEATH

Andy Devane

Italy is marking the bicentenary of the death of Antonio Canova with a series of events in honour of the celebrated neoclassical sculptor who died in Venice on 13 October 1822.

Born in 1757 in the Venetian Republic city of Possagno, Canova grew up largely in the

care of his paternal grandfather Pasino, a stonemason who nurtured the young boy’s precocious talent from an early age.

As a teenager he was apprenticed for two years to prominent sculptor Giuseppe Bernardi, known as Torretti, before undertaking academic studies and opening his first studio.

The Three Graces, collection of Victoria and Albert Museum and the Scottish National Gallery.

Canova gained widespread recognition for his early works, commissioned by a senator, including statues of Eurydice (1773-1775), Orpheus (1775-1776) and Daedalus and Icarus (1779), all in the collection of Museo Correr in Venice.

At the age of 22 Canova travelled to Rome where he studied neoclassical sculpture as well as ancient Roman and Greek art. In 1781 he established a workshop in Rome and received patronage and support from the Rezzonico family of Pope Clement XIII and from Venetian ambassador Girolamo Zulian.

Canova won acclaim for his monument to Pope Clement XIV Ganganelli, unveiled in the Basilica di SS. Apostoli in 1787, and his tomb for Pope Clement XIII, installed in St Peter’s in 1792.

Canova’s international fame was sealed in 1793 with Psyche Revived by Cupid’s Kiss (Amore e Psiche) commissioned by Colonel John Campbell and today in the collection of the Louvre in Paris (a second version is in the State Hermitage Museum in St Petersburg).

In 1796 Canova undertook the monumental marble sculpture of Hercules and Lichas,

completed only in 1815, and now in the collection of Rome’s Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna.

When French troops arrived in Rome in 1798, Canova returned to Possagno where he devoted himself to painting and travels in Europe. He returned to Rome two years later and in 1802 he met Napoleon in Paris and received a commission for to create a monumental statue of the First Consul.

This was the start of a series of works portraying members of the Bonaparte family, most famously his sublime sculpture of Napoleon’s sister Pauline Bonaparte as Venus Victrix (1808), today a star attraction of Galleria Borghese.

In 1815 Pope Pius VII appointed Canova as chief delegate to the Congress of Paris, a mission that proved successful in repatriating numerous precious artworks looted from Italy during Napoleon’s ascendancy.

Canova was celebrated worldwide for The Three Graces, after an English collector commissioned a second version of the original one commissioned by Napoleon’s first wife Joséphine de Beauharnais and now in the Hermitage in St Petersburg.

Pauline Bonaparte as Venus Victrix, Galleria Borghese, Rome.

Regarded as a masterpiece of neoclassical European sculpture, the second representation of the three mythological daughters of Zeus was unveiled in 1817. Today it is displayed alternately at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London and the Scottish National Gallery.

In 1820 Canova completed a life-size marble statue of George Washington, in the style of a Roman general, commissioned by the state of North Carolina. The work was installed in the North Carolina State House in 1821 but was destroyed by fire 10 years later.

The last work Canova designed was the new parish church for his native town, Possagno, in the provice of Treviso. The construction of the Tempio Canoviano began in 1819, but the artist never saw the building completed as he died three years later in Venice, on 13 October 1822.

Upon completion of the project in 1830, Canova’s remains were transferred to the Neoclassical church whose design recalls the Pantheon in Rome.

Canova’s heart is enshrined in pyramid monument in the church of Frari in Venice, which has recently undergone restoration, while his right hand is in the city’s Accademia di Belle Arti.

Today Possagno hosts the Canovian Gypsotheca which preserves the heritage of the artist and houses a treasure trove of his works.

Meanwhile those in Rome – in addition to visiting Canova’s masterpieces around the city – can call into Caffe Canova Tadolini on Via del Babuino, the former studio of Canova and later his apprentice Adamo Tadolini, and enjoy a coffee surrounded by sculptures and casts by both artists.

Psyche Revived by Cupid's Kiss (Amore e Psiche), collection of the Louvre, Paris.

UK NATIONAL SETTLED IN ITALY BEFORE 1 JANUARY 2021?

Make sure your residency in Italy is easily recognised. Request your new Carta di Soggiorno Elettronica from your local Questura as soon as possible. And don’t get confused…it isn’t the same thing as your electronic ID card.

Find out more on gov.uk/livinginitaly

GUIDE TO ROME'S UNDERGROUND SITES

Rome has a myriad of underground sites in the centre and in the suburbs, from catacombs and church crypts to ancient Roman villas and pagan temples. Many of these sites are not open to the public on a regular basis. For updated news and visiting information see websites www.sotterraneidiroma.it, www.romasotterranea.it and www.catacombeditalia.va.

Mithraeum in Circo Massimo

Piazza Bocca della Verità 16, for booking info tel. 060608. Guided visits for groups only. This five-room mithraeum, at the Bocca della Verità end of Circo Massimo, is dedicated to the Roman deity Mithras. It dates to the fourth century but was only rediscovered in 1931.

Palazzo

Valentini

Via Foro Traiano 85 (Piazza Venezia), tel. 0622761280, www.palazzovalentini.it. The remains of ancient Roman houses are on permanent display below Palazzo Valentini, just off Piazza Venezia. 09.30-18.30. Tues closed.

Stadium of Domitian

Via di Tor Sanguigna 3, tel. 0668805311, www.stadiodomizia no.com.

The remains of the Domiziano Stadium, a Unesco World Heritage Site commissioned around AD 80 by Emperor Domitia nus, are located about 4.5m under Piazza Navona. Daily 10.00-19.00, Sat 10.00-20.00. Audio guide available.

Terme di Caracalla

Viale delle Terme di Caracalla 52, www.coopculture.it. These Roman baths have a maze of underground areas including a gymnasium, changing rooms, frigidarium, tepidarium and caldarium. Open daily, Mon half day. For varying opening times see website.

Vatican scavi

St Peter's Basilica, www.scavi.va. This Imperial-era necropolis contains the tomb of St Peter. Only private visits on request. Tour groups are composed of approxi mately 12 people, according to language. For information see website or go to excavations office to the left of the Bernini colonnade in St Peter’s Square. Mon-Fri 09.00-18.00, Sat 09.00-17.00.

Catecombs of Priscilla

Via Salaria 430, tel. 0686206272. Situated near the Villa Ada park, these catacombs comprise a series of labyrinthine tunnels and burial chambers excavated between the second and fifth centuries. 08.30-12.00, 14.30-17.00. Closed Mon and Aug. Catacombs of S. Sebastiano

Via Appia Antica 136, tel. 067850350. From the first century this maze of tunnels and caves was used extensively to inter pagans and Christians, including the martyrs Sebastian and Eutychius. 10.00-17.00. Closed Sun and 1-28 Dec.

Church of S. Crisogono Piazza Sidney Sonnino 44, (Viale Trastevere), tel. 065810076. Underground site including an early Christian church and a third-century Roman house. Mon-Sat 07.30-11.30, 16.00-19.00. Sun 08.00-13.00, 16.00-19.00. Not possible to visit excavations during celebration of Mass.

The skulls in the Capuchin crypt on Via Veneto.

Church of S. Lorenzo in Lucina

Via in Lucina 16, tel. 066871494, www.060608.it. This underground site was originally thought to have been a Roman house for early Christian worship but recent research indicates that it may have been a pre-Christian temple to Giunone Lucina, the goddess of pregnant women. Tours last Saturday of the month at 16.15.

Church of S. Nicola in Carcere

Via del Teatro di Marcello 46, tel. 0668892781, www.sotterra neidiroma.it.

The remains of three Republican-era temples, cells and alleys under the altar were once part of the bustling Forum Boarium complex, ancient Rome's cattle market. 10.00-17.00. Wed closed.

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, 0639967700, www.coopculture.it. Built over the ancient Roman Theatre of Balbus, this partial ly-underground museum is dedicated to urban archaeology and the Middle Ages. Tues-Sun 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Domus Aurea

Viale della Domus Aurea 1, www.coopculture.it.

Emperor Nero's golden palace was built after the great fire of Rome in 64 AD on a sprawling site in the Colle Oppio area. Guided tours in English Sat-Sun 09.00-16.45. Virtual reality tours Sat-Sun 09.00-18.15 (last admission 17.00).

Hadrian’s Crypt (Bocca della Verità)

Piazza Bocca della Verità 18.

Under the altar in the church of S. Maria in Cosmedin there is a small eighth-century crypt built to hold relics extracted from the catacombs by Pope Hadrian I. Mon-Sat 10.00-14.00, 15.00-17.30, Sun 12.00-17.30.

Jewish catacombs

Via Nomentana 70 and Via Appia Pignatelli 4. The are six Jewish catacombs in Rome but not all are accessible. The Villa Torlonia catacombs, on Via Nomentana 70, are the largest and best known, while the Vigna Randanini catacombs,

on Via Appia Pignatelli 4, opened to the public for the first time in 2016. For up-to-date visiting information see website, www.catacombsociety.org/jewish-catacombs/.

Mithraeum in Circo Massimo

Piazza Bocca della Verità 16, tel. 060608. Guided visits for groups only. This five-room mithraeum, at the Bocca della Verità end of Circo Massimo, is dedicated to the Roman deity Mithras. It dates to the fourth century but was only rediscovered in 1931.

Palazzo Valentini

Via Foro Traiano 85 (Piazza Venezia), tel. 0622761280, www.pa lazzovalentini.it.

The remains of ancient Roman houses are on permanent display below Palazzo Valentini, just off Piazza Venezia. 09.30-18.30. Tues closed.

Stadium of Domitian Via di Tor Sanguigna 3, tel. 0668805311, www.stadiodomizia no.com.

The remains of the Domiziano Stadium, a Unesco World Heritage Site commissioned around AD 80 by Emperor Domitia nus, are located about 4.5m under Piazza Navona. Daily 10.00-19.00, Sat 10.00-20.00. Audio guide available.

Terme

di Caracalla

Viale delle Terme di Caracalla 52, www.coopculture.it. These Roman baths have a maze of underground areas including a gymnasium, changing rooms, frigidarium, tepidarium and caldarium. Open daily, Mon half day. For varying opening times see website.

Vatican scavi St Peter's Basilica, www.scavi.va. This Imperial-era necropolis contains the tomb of St Peter. Only private visits on request. Tour groups are composed of approxi mately 12 people, according to language. For information see website or go to excavations office to the left of the Bernini colonnade in St Peter’s Square. Mon-Fri 09.00-18.00, Sat 09.00-17.00.

The mithraeum at S. Clemente.

LAGO DI NEMI

Lago di Nemi is a small and unique volcanic lake where divers in the 19th century discovered two large ships built for the notorious Roman emperor Caligula at the bottom of the lake, filled withbottom of the lake, filled with artworks and treasures. Replicas of the ships along with other artefacts are on display at the nearby Museum of Roman Ships. Travellers can also visit the natural caves around the lake, which were a favourite haunt of 19th-century foreign artists such as Turner. Nemi is associated with the cult of the Roman goddess Diana, and, for the last 80 years, an annual strawberry festival. Visitors can reach the lake by taking the SS7 Appia southbound as far as Genzano, and then following signs for Nemi.

LAGO DI VICO

Formed by the volcanic activity of Mount Venus, Lago di Vico offers a unique geological backdrop set amid lush woodland and hills. The surrounding nature reserve is a haven for wildlife, but what is most characteristic of the area are the hazel and chestnut plantations. Lakeside campsites and hotels offer swimming, sailing and horse riding. The two towns worth a visit are Ronciglione and Caprarola with its magnificent and recently restored Villa Farnese. Lago di Vico is a 90-minute drive from Rome taking the SS2 Cassia, and turning north at Sutri.

This volcanic crater lake presents visitors with beautiful views of its clear water and surrounding forests. The picturesque towns along the shores serve as popular summer resort areas for Romans, including Castel Gandolfo, home to the summer papal palace whose gardens were recently opened to the public. On the other side of the lake is Palazzolo, a villa bought by Rome’s Venerable English College in 1920 and now open to guests. The towns surrounding the lake are known for their restaurants, shops and fruit farms. Swimming, fishing and boating are among the favourite activities for visitors, and the lake’s beach is located on the western shore. A simple 45-minute train ride from Termini, visitors can reach Lago Albano by taking the FL4 train towards Albano Laziale and

Located on the site of the Vulsini volcano, dormant since about 100 BC, this crater lake has two islands and is surrounded by rolling hills and vegetation. The area around Montefisascone on the southeast shore of the lake is famous for its Est! Est!! Est!!! wine. The town of Bolsena in the northeast is a popular tourist resort in summer and it is here that the famous so-called Eucharistic Miracle took place in 1263 when a Bohemian priest is said to have seen blood coming from the host that he had just consecrated at Mass. Capodimonte on the southwest of the lake

The lakeside area provides activities for sports and nature enthusiasts all year round. The best way to reach Lago di Bolsena from Rome is by car, as buses to Bolsena from Termini

LAGO DI BRACCIANO

Just north-west of Rome along the Via Cassia, Lake Bracciano is one of the most easily accessible lakes for Romans. The ban on motor boats (except for a little ferry) means it remains an ideal spot for swimming, sailing and canoeing. The Lega Navale operates a dinghy sailing school in Anguillara. Churches and historic sites are located in the three small towns around the lake: Bracciano, Trevignano and Anguillara. There are also places for camping and horse riding tours by the lake, which is just an hour on the Viterbo train line from Rome’s Ostiense station. The lake is overlooked by the 15th-century Orsini-Odescalchi castle in Bracciano, often chosen as the venue for jet-set weddings, and there is also an air force museum at nearby Vigna di Valle.

LAGO DI MARTIGNANO

This tiny volcanic lake just to the east of Lake Bracciano offers clean water and beaches with scenic views of the surrounding meadows and wildlife. Lago di Martignano is known for its outdoor activities such as horse riding, hiking, mountain biking and swimming. Umbrellas, loungers and luggage storage are available to rent along with canoes, sailboats and windsurfing equipment. It is also known for the hot sulphurous springs surroun ding the lake. Arriving at Lago di Martignano by car is the easiest option. Reaching the lake by public transport involves taking the FM3 train to Cesano and opting for either a local bus or taxi.

ARTandSEEK

English-language cultural workshops and visits to museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekfor kids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandse ekforkids.com.

Bioparco

Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and o ers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it.

Bowling Silvestri

is sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.

ere are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com.

Casa del Parco

Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com.

Casina di Ra aello

Play centre in Villa Borghese o ering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Ra aello (Porta Pincia na), tel. 060608, www.casinadira aello.it.

Cinecittà World

is 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special e ects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it.

Climbing

Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, urs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torri no/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473.

Explora

e 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it.

Go-karting Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it.

Gymboree

is children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, o ering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gym bo.it.

Hortis Urbis Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but someti mes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it.

Il Nido

Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazio neilnido.it.

Luneur

Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it.

Rainbow Magicland e 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it.

Time Elevator

A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. e time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-eleva tor.it.

Zoomarine is amusement and aquatic park outside Rome o ers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoo marine.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS

IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS DETAILS. IN SOME CASES RESERVATIONS ARE REQUIRED.

VATICAN MUSEUMS

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS

Baths of Diocletian

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoro ma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantan gelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30.

Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colos seo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeo logia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.benicul turali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsi ni.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.be niculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

CELEBRATING 50 YEARS OF AMERICAN EDUCATION IN ITALY

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

CITY MUSEUMS

Centrale Montemartini

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemarti ni.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoli ne Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Capitoline Museums

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitoli ni.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

MATTATOIO

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museoca nonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleo nico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napole on and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS

Casa di Goethe

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Chiostro Del Bramante

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

Galleria Colonna

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galle riacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechiri co.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, rst Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-hou se.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.

Museo storico della Liberazione Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Palazzo Merulana

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and interna tional contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contem porary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www. -maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Multidisciplinary venue devoted to visual art, design, architec ture and fashion design at Palazzo Brancaccio. Via Merulana 248, tel. 0631709949, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Del ni, Via dei Del ni 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircus gallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespeci c exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pasti cio Cerere

This non-pro t foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pasti ciocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created speci cally for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazi onevolume.com.

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconven tional art works at a ordable prices by artists working in various elds. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo Gallery showing the works of important Italian and interna tional visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both interna tionally recognised and emerging artists who create works speci cally for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-pro le international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and interna tional artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel.

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Plus Arte Puls

A dynamic gallery promoting street culture and contemporary art movements. Via di A ogalasino 34, www.galleriavarsi.it.

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of internatio nal artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of di erent generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.ma

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

Sala 1

This internationally known non-pro t contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contem porary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

S.T. Foto libreria galleria Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contem porary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

The Gallery Apart

This contemporary art gallery o ers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418,

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

TraleVolte

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

Von Buren Contemporary

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com. Operativa Arte Contemporanea

Rome-based gallery specialising in a ordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via Giulia 13, tel. 3351633518, www.vonburencontemporary.com.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunder kammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria o ers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

where to go in Rome WHAT’S ON

Philip Colbert's giant lobsters enliven Via Veneto. See page 33.

EXHIBITIONS

A TIMELESS WONDER

25 OCT-29 JAN

Galleria Borghese dedicates an exhibition to oil painting on stone in the 16th and 17th century, reviving reviving an ancient Roman practice in response to the devastation that occurred during the Sack of Rome in 1527. Artists and patrons believed that paintings would be rendered immortal is painted on stone, with Venetian artist Sebastiano del Piombo leading the charge in developing the technique with oil paints. The exhibition, titled A Timeless Wonder. Painting on Stone in Rome in the Cinquecento and Seicento, is curated by Francesca Cappelletti and Patrizia Cavazzini. Comprising more than 60 works from Italian and international museums and important private collections, the show features works on a variety of stone surfaces by artists including Bronzino, del Piombo, Orazio Gentileschi, Carlo Saraceni and Antonio Tempesta. Galleria Borghese, Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5, www.galleriaborghese. beniculturali.it.

ROMA MEDIEVALE

21 OCT-5 FEB

An exhibition at Palazzo Braschi offers the chance to “rediscover the lost face of Rome” between the sixth and 14th centuries, exploring the city’s pivotal role in Christian and Mediaeval Europe. Divided into nine sections, the exhibition aims to raise awareness of Rome

in the Middle Ages, through its churches and palaces as well as daily life. There are more than 160 works on display including mosaics, frescoes and statues, from Roman public collections, churches and prestigious institutions such as the Vatican Museums. Organisers say the exhibition will also examine the rich patronage of popes and cardinals, the activity of artists and workshops, and the city’s fascination as “an essential pilgrimage destination even for kings and emperors.” Museo di Roma Palazzo Braschi, Piazza Navona 2, www.museodiroma.it.

RAOUL DUFY

14 OCT-26 FEB

Palazzo Cipolla hosts an exhibition dedicated to the French Fauvist painter Raoul Dufy (1877-1953). Known for his colourful, decorative style, the multifaceted Dufy was also a draftsman, printmaker, illustrator and designer. The exhibition, curated by Sophie Krebs and organised in collaboration with the Museum of Modern Art in Paris, features about 150 works, including paintings, drawings, ceramics and fabrics. Tues-Sun 10.00-20.00 (last entry 19.00). Palazzo Cipolla, Via del Corso 302, www.fondazione terzopilastrointernazionale.it.

Galleria Borghese celebrates painting on stone in Rome in the 16th and 17th centuries.

Raoul Dufy at Palazzo Cipolla. La jetée-promenade à Nice (1926), Paris Musées / Musée d'Art Moderne. Droits d'auteur © ADAGP.

VAN GOGH

8

OCT-26 MARCH

Palazzo Bonaparte, which reopened recently as an important exhibition space in the centre of Rome, stages a major show of Van Gogh paintings. The exhibition comprises 50 works including a celebrated self portrait of the artist from 1887, three years before his death. All the works on display come from the Kröller Müller Museum in Otterlo in the Netherlands. The exhibition makes reference to the places where Van Gogh stayed, with a particular focus on the artist’s time in Paris. Alongside his celebrated self portrait, the exhibition includes The sower (June 1888), The hospital garden in Saint-Rémy (1889), The Ravine (1889) and Sorrowing old man (1890). Located in Piazza Venezia, the 17th-century Palazzo Bonaparte is best known as the home of Maria Letizia Ramolino, Napoleon’s mother, who watched the world go by from the building’s green balcony from 1818 until her death in 1836. For exhibition details including tickets see website, www. mostrepalazzobonaparte.it.

L’IMPERO DI ARAGOSTE

6 OCT-8 JAN

Rome’s Via Veneto, synonymous with the Dolce Vita era of the 1960s, has been enlivened with 12 colourful installations by

British artist Philip Colbert. Born in Scotland in 1979, the Londonbased artist works across the mediums of painting, sculpture, digital art, fashion, furniture and design, and he has exhibited in the world’s most prestigious galleries including The Tate Modern. Best known for his cheeky, satirical lobster characters, Colbert has been described in the media as “the godson of Andy Warhol” and “the crown prince of pop art”. His lobsters form part of a new public art project on Via Veneto, including the six-metre-high King Lobster which greets passersby with a royal crown and raised pincers.

LUCIO DALLA

22 SEPT-6 JAN

Rome’s Ara Pacis museum pays homage to the late Italian singersongwriter Lucio Dalla with a major exhibition dedicated to his life and career. The show, held on the 10th anniversary of Dalla’s death, traces the “human and artistic journey of one of the most beloved Italian and international artists”. On display are documents, photographs, record covers, stage costumes, video footage and memorabilia including his extensive collection of hats. Dalla is best remembered as the composer of Caruso, the 1986 hit subsequently covered by artists including Luciano Pavarotti and Julio Iglesias. Museo dell’Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, www.arapacis.it.

GIUSEPPE CAPOGROSSI

20 SEPT-6 NOV

The Galleria Nazionale di Arte Moderna (GNAM) presents a retrospective devoted to Italian artist Giuseppe Capogrossi on the 50th anniversary of his death. The show marks the start of a series of Capogrossi exhibitions and events scheduled across Italy this October. One of the main exponents of Italian informal art in the mid20th century, Capogrossi (19001972) was originally a member of the figurative Scuola Romana movement before embracing abstraction later in his career.

A self portrait is among the highlights of a major Van Gogh show at Palazzo Bonaparte.

L'Impero di Aragoste by Philip Colbert.

Entitled Behind the scenes, the exhibition at GNAM comprises more than 30 paintings including a once-lost selection of works such as Surface 274 (1954) and Self-portrait with Emanuele Cavalli (circa 1927). The show also includes a room dedicated to his White Reliefs, from the 1960s, and the large Abstract tapestry (1963), along with around 20 works on paper and a series of archive material. Viale delle Belle Arti 131, www.lagallerianazionale. com.

EPISTOLARIUM

15 SEPT-19 NOV

Maja Arte Contemporanea an exhibition by Margareth Dorigatti inspired by the art of letter writing. The show comprises the artist’s most recent painting cycle with around 20 works, created between 2020 and 2022. In a recent letter to the gallery owner Daina Maja Titonel, Dorigatti stated that she was a keen letter writer as a young girl and again when she first left home, before perusing through old letters during the covid lockdown. “From these hundreds of letters I have extracted phrases at random” - she wrote - “and attempted to ‘rewrite’ them in my own fashion, in the only language I feel is truly mine: Painting.” Maja Arte Contemporanea, Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea. com.

DOMIZIANO IMPERATORE: ODIO E AMORE

13 JULY- 29 JAN

Villa Caffarelli at the Capitoline Museums stages an exhibition dedicated to Domitian, the last emperor of the Flavian dynasty, a complex character who was both loved and hated in life and in death. The exhibition, organised in collaboration with the Rijksmuseum in Holland, comprises almost 100 works, many of which are on loan from important international and Italian museums. On display are artefacts including marble and bronze busts of imperial figures and gods, marble elements of architectural decoration, and small objects in gold and bronze. Villa

L’ELEFANTE E IL COLLE PERDUTO

8 APRIL-5 MARCH

An exhibition at Trajan’s Markets recalls how the skull and left tusk of an extinct elephant species were discovered during excavations to make way for Via dell’Impero in 1932. The fossilised remains belonged to a straight-tusked elephant (Palaeoloxodon antiquus) a prehistoric species that roamed Europe and western Asia during the Ice Age. The surprise discovery came about during frantic works to bulldoze a path through the Velia or Velian hill – a spur between the Oppian Hill and the north side of the Palatine – as part of Mussolini’s plans to connect the Colosseum with Piazza Venezia. The rushed nature of the excavation meant the almost total loss of the garden of Villa Rivaldi, a Renaissance-era palace whose grounds stretched as far as the Basilica of Maxentius in the Roman Forum. Cutting through the Velia yielded rich archaeological finds from the Roman era, in particular the remains of a domus with well-preserved frescoes and numerous statues. The unearthed

treasures were collected hastily and crated off to city warehouses. The most surprising discovery was made on 20 May 1932, when numerous fossilised remains came to light, among them the elephant skull and tusk. The remains of the elephant are on display alongside archaeological finds, archive film footage and large watercolours of the Villa Rivaldi garden, painted before it was lost forever. Trajan’s Markets, on Via IV Novembre 94, www.mercatiditraiano.it.

CRAZY: MADNESS IN CONTEMPORARY ART

18 FEB-8 JAN

Chiostro del Bramante presents a large-scale exhibition project curated by Danilo Eccher. The works of 21 international artists fill the venue’s internal and external spaces “because madness cannot have limits.” The exhibition, described as unpredictable and immersive, features 11 site-specific works displayed in rooms not normally open to visitors. The 21 artists include Petah Coyne, Ian Davenport, Janet Echelman, Lucio Fontana, Anne Hardy, Thomas Hirschhorn, Alfredo Pirri, Gianni Politi. Chiostro del Bramante, Arco della Pace 5, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Giuseppe Capogrossi at GNAM. Le due chitarre (verso), 1948.

Caffarelli, Musei Capitolini, www. museicapitolini.org.

CLASSICAL

ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA

ANTONIO PAPPANO BEATRICE RANA

7 NOV

Pianists Beatrice Rana and Sir Antonio Pappano perform music by Dvořák, Ravel and Saint-Saëns, with the Solisti dell’Accademia Nazionale di S. Cecilia. The concert takes place at 20.30 on 7 Nov in the Sala Sinopoli, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it.

FEstivalS

BEETHOVEN VS BRUCKNER

9-11 NOV

Orchestra dell’Accademia Nazionale di S. Cecilia, with conductor Antonio Pappano and violinist Lisa Batiashvili performing Beethoven Violin

Concerto and Bruckner Symphony No. 9. The concerts on 9-10 Nov are at 19.30 and on 11 Nov at 20.30. Sala Santa Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it.

ROMAEUROPA

8 SEPT-20 NOV

Rome’s multidisciplinary arts festival returns with the 37th edition of its annual programme of contemporary dance, theatre, art, music, technology and events for kids. This year there will be 80 shows taking place in 18 venues across the city, involving more than 400 artists from around the globe. Romaeuropa artistic director Fabrizio Grifasi said the festival would be held with the “clear and determined opposition to all forms of aggression, war, atrocities in Europe and everywhere in the world”, underscoring the firm belief “that a different future is still possible and that it can be built through dialogue and cultural confrontation”. November highlights include Faith, Hope and Charity (3-6 Nov) at Teatro Argentina. The last chapter of a trilogy dedicated to intimacy in times of crisis, this theatrical work by British dramatist Alexander Zeldin is set in a community centre and examines the “ordinary, fragile and poetic lives” of people who manage

to keep going despite the obstacles in their paths. Robyn Orlin / Moving Into Dance (5-6 Nov) at Teatro Vascello. “We wear our wheels with pride and slap your streets with colour … we said ‘bonjour’ to Satan in 1820” is the extended title of this new creation by South African dancer and choreographer Robyn Orlin who is inspired by childhood memories of flamboyant Zulu rickshaw bicycletaxis in the streets of Durban during Apartheid. Enzo Cosimi, OresteaTrilogia della vendetta (10-13 Nov) at Teatro India. Italian choreographer Enzo Cosimi, known for his irreverent, punk aesthetic, presents the entire Orestea – Trilogia della

vendetta. Dedicated to the Eumenides, the trilogy investigates the possibility that technology may influence Orestes’ fate. Bruno Beltrao / Grupo de Rua de Niteroi (17-19 Nov) at Auditorium Parco della Musica Ennio Morricone. Hailed as the William Forsythe of Hip Hop, Brazilian choreographer Bruno Beltrão returns to Romaeuropa with his company Grupo de Rua. His latest work New Creation addresses the violent world of Rio de Janeiro and the repressive practices of the Brazilian far-right led by Bolsonaro. For festival details in English see Romaeuropa website, www.romaeuropa.net.

Beatrice Rana and Sir Antonio Pappano perform music by Dvořák, Ravel and SaintSaëns for Accademia S. Cecilia.

Robyn Orlin / Moving Into Dance for Romaeuropa Festival.

OPERA

TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA

TOSCA

2-5 NOV

Puccini’s melodrama in three acts, with libretto by Giuseppe Giacosa

and Luigi Illica after the drama by Victorien Sardou. Paolo Arrivabeni conducts, Alessandro Talevi directs, with cast including Anna Pirozzi and Ewa Płonka as Tosca. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

DIALOGUES DES CARMÉLITES 27 NOV-6 DEC

Michele Mariotti conducts Dialogues des Carmélites, an opera in three acts and 12 scenes, with libretto after the work of the same name by Georges Bernanos, and music by Francis Poulenc. Emma Dante directs. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www. operaroma.it.

DON QUIXOTE 18-31 DEC

David Garforth conducts this ballet in three acts, based on episodes taken from the novel Don Quixote de la Mancha by Miguel de Cervantes with music by Ludwig Minkus, in a Teatro dell’Opera production choreographed by Laurent Hilaire. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA ROMANA

ROCKY HORROR SHOW 1-6

NOV

Accademia Filarmonica Romana and LSD Edizioni stage Richard O’Brien’s humorous musical in tribute to the science fiction and horror B movies. Staged at Teatro Olimpico in collaboration with Trafalgar Theatre, with Stephen Webb as Frank and Haley Flaherty as Janet. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www. filarmonicaromana.org.

CATS

7-31 DEC

The hit musical by English composer Andrew Lloyd Webber

The stage of Cats will be set in Rome.

comes to Teatro Sistina. Produced by Peeparrow, the Italian version of the show will be directed by Massimo Romeo Piparo, with Malika Ayane as Grizabella. For the first time ever, the show will be set in Rome, amid ancient Roman ruins and with the Colosseum as

the backdrop. Based on the poetry of T. S. Eliot, the musical tells the story of a tribe of cats and the night they make the “Jellicle choice” by deciding which cat will ascend to the Heaviside layer and come back to a new life. Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, www.ilsistina.it.

Dialogues des Carmélites at Teatro dell'Opera. Collage by Marinella Senatore.

FREE MUSEUM SUNDAY

State museums and archaeological sites in Rome and across Italy will be open for free on Sunday 6 November as part of the Domenica al Museo initiative. The nationwide free entry scheme is held every first Sunday of the month in tandem with the monthly free entry for Rome’s city-run museums. This means that almost all museums and archaeological sites in Rome will be open for free this Sunday, however some museums such as Galleria Borghese require advance booking. There is free access to the archaeological areas of the Circus Maximus and the Imperial Fora (entrance at Trajan’s Column). The initiative also provides free access to temporary exhibitions currently underway in Rome’s museums, with the exception of the Lucio Dalla show at the Ara Pacis. The Italian culture ministry encourages the wearing of masks when visiting museums however it is not obligatory. Tourists in Rome should note that the Vatican Museums are closed on Sundays.

CINEMA BARBERINI REOPENS AFTER TWO YEARS

Rome’s Cinema Barberini in the central piazza of the same name reopened on 20 October after being closed for more than two years. The historic venue has undergone renovation and will have a room dedicated to the celebrated Roman actor and comedian Carlo Verdone. The multiplex cinema, known for showing English-language movies, hosts six screens equipped with the latest technology, with a seventh screen set to be added over the next year. “They didn’t wait until I was dead to dedicate this tribute to me, so I can enjoy it while I’m alive” – Verdone told Rome newspaper Il Messaggero –“I’m happy to be part of a project that will help get people out of the house after the pandemic; rediscovering human contact is fundamental”.

In addition to screening blockbusters, originallanguage movies and art-house films, the revamped cinema will host concerts, exhibitions, stand-up comedy and shows. The venue, which first opened as a cinema in 1930, also has a restaurant and will be open daily from 10.00 until midnight. The reopening of the Barberini movie theatre follows the closure of more than 100 cinemas in the Italian capital over the last decade. However it is not all doom and gloom for Roman cinemas: together with the Barberini, the long-closed Fiamma – located on nearby Via Bissolati – Is set to reopen next year in a project spearheaded by Italy’s culture ministry. A refurbished, state-of-the-art Cinema Troisi reopened in Trastevere a year ago in an ambitious venture by the Ragazzi del Cinema America, the collective of young cinema aficionados best known for the summer film festival in Piazza S. Cosimato.

MUSIC IN ROME MUSEUMS

Musei in Musica returns to the capital on the night of Saturday 19 November, with many of Rome’s city museums staying open late, from 20.00 until 02.00, to host concerts and live performances, with a symbolic entry fee of €1. In addition to the Capitoline Museums, Trajan’s Markets and Palazzo Braschi, the event includes less-visited venues including Centrale Montemartini, Napoleonic Museum, Museo Carlo Bilotti, Giovanni Barracco Museum of Ancient Sculpture, the Zoology Museum and the municipal Gallery of Modern Art.

Andy Devane

Rome hosts Musei in Musica on 19 November.

The all-new Cinema Barberini. Photo Artribune.

Ettore Festa,

Illustration by Marinella Senatore, Courtesy of the artist and Mazzoleni, London Torino

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city There are also concerts in many of the churches and sometimes in the museums.

Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it

Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com

Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct

Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct

Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it

Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct

Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com

Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it

TRE

MUSIC THE A TRE CINEMA VENUES

classical cinema

RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it

Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com

Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com

RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it

Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are at Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others are at the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Roma Tre, Via Ostienze 234, www.r30.org

Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com

MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

cinema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for weekly updates.

Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for weekly updates.

Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361

Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767

There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome.

Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are at Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others are at the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Roma Tre, Via Ostienze 234, www.r30.org

All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org

There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome.

All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361

Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 068553485

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 068553485

Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com

Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825

Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com

Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230

Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825

Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361

Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230

St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it

Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7

S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona

St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com

S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com

Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068

Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361

Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116

Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068

Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361

Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116

Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111

Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361

Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111

Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec chini 3-5, tel. 06892111

Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec chini 3-5, tel. 06892111

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, ww

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it

dance opera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it

dance opera

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

rockpop

rockpop

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com

Live Alcazar, Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com

Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org

Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it

Atlantico, Viale dell’Oceano Atlantico 271d, tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com

Atlantico, Viale dell’Oceano Atlantico 271d, tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www auditorium.com

theatre

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

theatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it

Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it

Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it

Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it

Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it

Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it

Live Alcazar, Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com

Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it

PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it

PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it

Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com

Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com

Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com

Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, www.teatrosangenesio.it

Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 www.teatrosangenesio.it

Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsi stina.it

Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel. 065898031, www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it

Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it

By Kate Zagorski

PANGIALLO: ROMAN CHRISTMAS CAKE

PANGIALLO HAS BEEN A TRADITIONAL CHRISTMAS TREAT IN ROME SINCE ANCIENT ROMAN TIMES

Literally meaning “yellow bread,” pangiallo is a traditional Roman sweet eaten at Christmas.

It is made from a mixture of dried and candied fruit, nuts, citrus peel, honey and dark chocolate which are combined and formed into a dome shape. The cake is brushed with a sa ron glaze and baked in the oven to create a golden yellow outer crust and a dense, rich, sticky interior.

Pangiallo is originally an ancient recipe from the Roman Imperial age when it was made and gifted during the winter solstice to wish for the return of the sun, hence its colour and round shape.

Nowadays pangiallo is harder to track down than the more di used festive treats such as panforte or panpepato, yet it can still be found in some of the artisanal bakeries of the city around the yuletide period.

However, preparing pangiallo at home is very simple and will ll your house with a delicious warm aroma. The recipe below is a basic guideline, but you could also add dried gs, pine nuts or spices such as nutmeg, ginger or cinnamon according to your own taste. Once made it keeps well so it makes an excellent homemade Christmas gift for friends and family.

PANGIALLO

80g almonds 80g hazelnuts 80g walnuts 40g pistachios 100g sultanas

40g mixed candied fruit 100g honey 100g dark chocolate Grated zest of 1 lemon Grated zest of 1 orange 80g our 00

Preheat the oven to 180°C. Place the dark chocolate into a glass bowl over a pan of boiling water and melt until smooth. While the chocolate is melting roughly chop the almonds, hazelnuts, walnuts and pistachios and put into a large mixing bowl.

Add the grated lemon and orange zest, the sultanas and the candied fruit and combine everything together well using a fork. Add the honey and continue to mix as you gradually pour in the melted chocolate. Lastly add the our and, once combined, use your hands to push down and form a compact dough.

Place the dough on a baking tray lined with greaseproof paper and use your hands to mould it into a dome shape. To make the golden glaze put 2 tablespoons of our into a clean bowl, add the olive oil and sa ron and mix. Then gradually add cold water, bit by bit, until you have a thick, creamy texture. Brush the glaze over the top of the dome until it is completely covered then bake in the oven at 180°C for 35-40 minutes until the outer crust is rm.

Kate Zagorski has lived in Italy since 2000. Married to a food-obsessed Roman chef, she leads food tours and also works as a freelance food and travel writer.

The best wine bars in Rome: ten of our favourites that also serve food

Brylla – Trieste

Brylla is a modern wine bar with a a very smart idea: Coravin. Thanks to an unusual contraption, the bottles can be opened but still keep well. The outcome is extraordinary, you can try a glass of anything on the menu. And that’s hundreds of different grapes, from a more modest wine to a Chateau Lafitte, either for a taster, by the glass, half bottle or bottle. There’s a fairly good menu too (but you could find better). Via Chiana 77, tel. 0685355669.

Fafiuché – Monti

Fafiuché is a small sanctuary, a haven, a shelter from life’s chaos. On a backstreet in Monti is the wine bar where you’ll find high quality Piedmont wines and also delicious dishes, such as braised meat, mixed plates of meats and cheeses accom panied by preserves. If you are lucky you might be able to nab one of the (few) tables outside. Via della Madonna dei Monti 28, tel. 066990968.

Litro – Monteverde

Litro has much to say for it and little wrong with it: the location is great with a lovely outdoor space. The staff are passionate and attentive. The wine list (all organic) is excellent. The wines are made with the highest quality ingredients, unlike other wines you might find round and about. Via Fratelli Bonnet 5, tel. 0645447639.

Sogno Autarchico – Prati

Near the Sorpasso house, this venue isn’t particu larly nice indoors – the room is crammed with a large bar, a few tables and a lounge area. But this wine bar earns a prized place on our list, thanks to Gianni Ruggiero, who is also the sommelier at Simposio. You’ll find regulars here spanning all sorts of ages, who hold this bar in high regard. Via Properzio 32, tel. 0668801310.

Il Sorí – S. Lorenzo

Small and cosy, an oasis in S. Lorenzo, hidden amongst an array of fast food eateries with outdoor seating. Sorì really knows its stuff about wines, and also about cooking. As well as other delicious dishes you can try the excellent Gallega octopus (€15), the crispy toasted patanegra (Spanish ham, the beef tartare or wild boar cheek. Via dei Volsci 51, tel. 3934318681.

Remigio Champagne e Vino – Appio

Remigio is a hidden gem between via Tuscolana and Appia. There’s a wide variety of champagne and sparkling wines available, but there are also

a great number of still wines to choose from. We recommend pairing a glass of wine with the steak tartare, which is one of the best around. All the dishes are excellent, especially the crostini, pastra mi, and salted cod. Also open at lunchtime. Via S. Maria Ausiliatrice 15, tel 06789228.

La Barrique – Monti

At this very popular bar you can have an enjoyable meal alone, at one of the wooden tables, gazing at the shelves that show off the many wine bottles. The array of wines is truly excellent, and includes some organic bottles. They also offer wine by the glass, and you can choose between slightly cheaper wines or some rather special ones. There aren’t many dishes on offer, but there’s always something tasty. Via del Boschetto 41/b, tel 0647825953.

Il Goccetto – Historical centre

An institution, one of the city’s first wine bars, a cult spot for Romans and tourists looking for a touch of the gourmet. They both sit by the bar waiting for an extraordinary platter of meats and cheeses which they wash down with a glass of wine. Cosy and intimate, il Goccetto is a perfect mix between a wine bar offering 800 bottles and a Venetian bacaro (the venetian word for wine bar). Truly one of the best wine bars in Rome. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 14, tel 066864268.

Al Vino al Vino – Monti

While there might not always be an enthusiastic and jolly atmosphere it’s definitely worth a visit. The owner Giacomo is a man of few words, who watches football games on the television while preparing the cheese and meat boards. Unfortu nately these are the only things on the menu, other than a very saucy aubergine parmigiana. We recommend taking your glass outside and watching passersby. There is a good selection of wines on offer. Via dei Serpenti 19, tel. 06485803.

Trimani Wine Bar – Fiume

Trimani has just celebrated its 25th birthday, and at this respectable age has certainly become one of Rome’s most classic wine bars. Elegant and a little formal, there’s an intimate atmosphere and an excellent kitchen. They serve an age-old dish, crostino with lard from the butcher Silvio Brarda and mozzarella. You can also enjoy carpacci, buffalo mozzarella and many other dishes. It is filled with tables, there are no stools at the bar.

Via Cernaia 37, tel. 064469630.

Sometimes an excellent wine bar can be even better than a good restaurant, and for this reason we have put together a definitive list www.puntarellarossa.it

Associations

American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org

American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org

Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com

Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com

Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net

Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com

Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

Books

The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

Almost Corner Bookshop

Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942

Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 27, tel. 066795222

Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it

La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com

Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Religious

All Saints’ Anglican Church

Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881

Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30

Anglican Centre

Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com

Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org

Bible Baptist Church

Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00

Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425

Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464

Church of Sweden

Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820

Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise

Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com

Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it

International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695

International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761

Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic)

Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00

Roma Baptist Church

Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese)

Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091

Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org

Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico)

Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258

St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00

St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups

Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com

Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it

Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306

Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it

Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it

Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily

Caritas foreigners’ support centre

Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554

Caritas hostel

Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235

Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369

Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport

• Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it

• Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it

• Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it

• Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994

• Traffic info tel. 1518

• Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00

St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30

St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30

Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00

Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027

Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339

Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772

Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351

Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104

The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma

24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers

• Ambulance tel. 118

• Carabinieri tel. 112

• Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336

• Fire brigade tel. 115

• Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999

• Police tel. 113

• Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355