Wanted in Rome - November 2023 by Wanted in Rome

Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 15, Numero 10 NOVEMBER 2023 | € 2,00

THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

WHAT'S+ WHERE TO GO IN ROME

ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS

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CONT

4. ROME REOPENS RAIN NYMPHAEUM ON PALATINE HILL Andy Devane

6. ROME MAKES FINAL 8.

PUSH FOR EXPO 2030 ROME'S PARKS

MISCELLANY

WHAT'S ON

10. ROME FOR children 12. STREET ART guide 14. MUSEUMS 16. ART GALLERIES 34. CULTURAL VENUES 39. RECIPE 40. puntarella rossa 42. USEFUL NUMBERS

22. EXHIBITIONS 26. Classical 28. festivals 28. OPERA 32. Culture NEWS

DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 PROGETTO GRAFICO: Dali Studio Srl IMPAGINAZIONE: Simona Castellari STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 31/10/2023

THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 15, Numero 10 NOVEMBER 2023 | € 2,00

EDITORIALS

CURRENTLY SUSPENDED Copies are on sale at: Newsstands in Rome Anglo American Bookstore, Via della Vite 27 Wanted in Rome, Via di Monserrato 49 Wanted in Rome Via di Monserrato 49 - tel. 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com editorial@wantedinrome.com www.wantedinrome.com www.wantedinmilan.com

WHAT'S+ WHERE TO GO IN ROME

ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS

Maurits Cornelis Escher Between St Peter's and the Sistine Chapel, 1936. All M.C. Escher works © 2023 The M.C. Escher Company. Part of Escher exhibition at Palazzo Bonaparte, Rome. See page 23 for details.

ENTS 6

ROME MAKES FINAL PUSH FOR EXPO 2030

ROME REOPENS RAIN NYMPHAEUM ON PALATINE HILL

festivals

24 classical

Culture

ROME REOPENS RAIN NYMPHAEUM ON PALATINE HILL NOW RESTORED, THE FARNESE NYMPHAEUM HAD BEEN CLOSED TO PUBLIC FOR DECADES Andy Devane

he Ninfeo della Pioggia or Rain Nymphaeum on Rome's Palatine Hill reopened to the public on 1 November following extensive restoration works by the Colosseum Archaeological Park. The nymphaeum is part of the elaborate Farnese Gardens complex, built by the powerful Farnese family in the 16th century, and is located at the centre of the monumental ramp leading up to the Palatine from the Roman Forum. Decorated with wall paintings and a grottostyle fountain made of stone and stucco, the vaulted structure is one of the most important testimonies of Roman culture from the

late Renaissance and Baroque eras. Closed to the public for many decades for conservation reasons, the cave-like nymphaeum was the subject of a major restoration project that began in 2020 and concluded this year. Inspired by examples of ancient Rome and the early Renaissance, the ninfeo was used by the Farnese as a refreshing space for festivities and leisure, especially in the hot summer months. Inside the large semi-subterranean room decorated with frescoes and ancient sculptures, the guests of the nymphaeum could enjoy the dim light and the Fontana della

Ninfeo della Pioggia and its ceiling. Photos Simona Murrone.

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Culture

The nymphaeum is located at the centre of the Uccelliere Farnesiane. © Parco archeologico del Colosseo. Photo Simona Murrone.

Pioggia, designed to replicate the melodious sounds of rain falling from the sky. The Farnese family built their "garden of delights" among ancient Roman ruins on the northern slopes of the Palatine Hill in the mid-16th century. Established by Cardinal Alessandro Farnese, the terraced Horti Farnesiani featured aviaries and magnificent sculptures however by the 18th century the gardens had become completely abandoned and overgrown. The three-year restoration project at the Ninfeo della Pioggia involved resolving the "complicated problem of water infiltration which affected the walls of the nymphaeum, the consolidation and restoration of the entire structure", stated Alfonsina Russo, director of the Colosseum Archaeological Park.

The Fontana della Pioggia, or Rain Fountain, has been fully restored as have the internal wall surfaces decorated with frescoes and stucco, with new findings attributing the artwork to Baroque artist Modanino. Stressing the park's commitment to making this "forgotten" monument of Roman Baroque known to everyone, Russo said: “Today we are giving the public back another piece of history of the Palatine and the city." In mid-December the Parco archeologico del Colosseo will host an international conference dedicated to nymphaeums in Rome and Lazio as well as an exhibition devoted to the Horti Farnesiani, running until next April. The Ninfeo della Pioggia is the latest site on the Palatine Hill to reopen to the public and comes a month after the majestic Domus Tiberiana welcomed visitors for the first time in almost 50 years.

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EXPO 2030

ROME MAKES FINAL PUSH FOR EXPO 2030

ITALIAN CAPITAL UP AGAINST RIYADH AND BUSAN

taly's president Sergio Mattarella added his voice to Rome's bid to host Expo 2030 in a video message to the Bureau International des Expositions (BIE) in Paris on 11 October. Delegations from Rome, Riyadh and Busan had convened in the French capital to make a final pitch to host Expo 2030 before the BIE assembly votes for the winning candidate at the end of this month. "Places and people, nations and territories, the Earth and humanity" – Mattarella said in the video – "These are the protagonists of the proposal by Rome and Italy for Expo 2030."

Hailing Rome as a "promoter of civilization, hospitality and dialogue with the numerous cultures that have enriched its identity over millennia", Mattarella said the city and its people have been "capable of welcoming, of producing innovation, of continuously regenerating the urban fabric of what historians define as the Eternal City." Under the banner of People and Territories: Regeneration, Inclusion and Innovation, Rome's candidacy is "inspired by the principles of inclusion, respect for human rights and the values of democracy", the city's mayor Roberto Gualtieri said in Paris. The celebrated Italian dancer Roberto Bolle, accompanied by La Scala prima ballerina

Rome promoted its Expo bid with a spectacular drone light show at the Colosseum in April.

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Designs for Expo 2030 Solar Park at Tor Vergata by CRA-Carlo Ratti Associati.

Nicoletta Manni, treated delegates in Paris to a special dance performance to mark the occasion. "I chose to support Rome's Expo candidacy" - Bolle said - "for love of my country and because I share the values and themes at the centre of Italy's proposal." Bolle was the latest in a series of wellknown figures to throw their weight behind Rome's Expo bid, including Gladiator star Russell Crowe, astronaut Samantha Cristoforetti and athlete Bebe Vio. Rome is placing a heavy emphasis on human rights and democracy in its bid to host Expo 2030 which, if successful, would provide a chance to "invite the whole world to reflect on how to make our cities more sustainable and inclusive," according to Gualtieri. Last year Gualtieri said that environmental sustainability is at the heart of Rome's Expo bid, pledging that it would be a "green" project and "not an Expo of cement".

Rome's proposed Expo site is in Tor Vergata in the south-eastern outskirts, near one of the capital's main universities, and the pavilions would be re-used after the event. The city’s bid is built around a project promoting new ways of urban co-existence, designed to "bypass the traditional separation between centre and suburbs", and based around the four pillars of history, nature, innovation and inclusion. If successful, the project would be a chance to "profoundly transform" Rome’s public transport infrastructure and urban decor, Gualtieri said. All will be revealed on 28 November when the host city will be elected by member states of the BIE during the organisation’s 173rd general assembly. If no candidate gets two thirds of the votes in the first round, the third-placed city is eliminated and the two remaining cities move into a second round, with the winner elected by a simple majority. Wanted in Rome • November 2023 | 7

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VILLA ADA This park was originally the home of King Victor Emmanuel III during the first half of the 20th century. It now houses the Egyptian embassy and consulate. The park is also a training ground for athletes, a concert stage for music-lovers, and a haven for locals from all that is hectic. The park hosts the long-running Incontra il Mondo festival of world music each summer. Its landscape is partly wooded and there is a lake with canoeing. In addition, the park’s 67m-high Monte Antenne gives hikers a panoramic view as well as access to an archaeological site which uncovered the ruins of an 1870 fort. Area: Salario. PARCO DEGLI ACQUEDOTTI This 240-hectare green space, tucked in the Appia Antica regional park, is known for possessing over half of the 11 major ancient Roman aqueducts and it takes around two hours to walk the whole network. The park's Villa Vignacce was built between the second and fourth centuries AD most likely by the brick-maker Q. Servilius Pudens. You can even see Pudens’ stamp on some of the bricks, a rarity as buildings were usually constructed so the stamps were not visible. Another architectural highlights is the Casale di Roma Vecchia, a house-tower that was likely used as part of a coaching inn during the 13th century. There is also the burial chamber of the “tomb of a hundred steps” along with some of Via Latina’s paving stones. Area: Appia Antica. PARCO DELL'APPIA ANTICA This wedge-shaped piece of land stretches over an impressive 3,400 hectares, and encompasses the rural estates Tormarancia and Farnesiana, Tor Fiscale’s green area, the Caffarella valley and 16 km of the ancient consular road, as well as various natural and man-made attractions. Its location adjacent to the Alban Hills makes it a biological hub and a favourite place for nature lovers. The park is closed to private traffic but can be explored by taking numerous bicycle and walking tours. In additon to the Caffarella valley, the principal sites include the Porta S. Sebastiano, Cecilia Metella, Circo di Massenzio, and a ride up Via Appia Antica. Other places of interest are the Museo delle Mura, the church of S. Urbano, the Basilica of St Sebastian and its catacombs, the St Callixtus catacombs, the Circus and Villa of Maxentius, the Mausoleum of Romulus, the Caetani Castle, and the Villa Quintili and aqueduct. Area: Appia Antica. VILLA BORGHESE Founded on 85 hectares and five centuries of history, Villa Borghese

stretches from Via Veneto to the heart of Parioli. It began as a 16th-century vineyard until Pope Paul V’s nephew, Cardinal Scipione Borghese, made it a private park. The Borghese family handed over ownership of the park to the city in 1903. The Pincian hill, or Pincio, is located on the edge of Piazza del Popolo, and offers stunning views of the capital. Pincio's gardens and staircases were laid out in 1809-14 according to designs by Giuseppe Valadier. Bikes and rickshaws can be rented throughout the park which contains the city's zoo, known as the Bioparco. It also plays host to one of the biggest equestrian events in Rome each May at the Piazza di Siena. The park is best known for housing the Galleria Borghese, home to one of the world's finest art collections with sculptures by Bernini and Canova, and paintings by Caravaggio, Correggio, Raphael and Titian. There is also another museum in the park's orangery: the Museo Carlo Bilotti, Aranciera di Villa Borghese, whose collection includes 18 works by de Chirico. The park contains a recreation of Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre which stages an annual Shakespeare festival; the state-of-the-art Casa del Cinema which screens Italian classics and holds foreign film festivals; and the world’s smallest cinema, the Cinema dei Piccoli. There is also a small artificial lake, known as the laghetto, where visitors can go boating. Area: centre. VILLA CELIMONTANA This 110,00-sqm park is situated between the Colosseum and the Baths of Caracalla. In 1553 the Mattei family purchased the land, to construct a villa, and subsequently created the beautiful garden, decorated with exotic plants, bas-reliefs and rich historical artistry. Designed by Michelangelo’s student, Giacomo del Duca, the villa boasts 16th-century fountains, a neo-gothic temple and an obelisk dedicated to Egyptian pharaoh Rameses II, which is rumoured to hold the ashes of Emperor Augustus. Confiscated by the Italian government during world war one, the property is now the home of the Italian Geographical Society and is open to the public. The park can be entered from either Piazza SS. Giovanni e Paolo or from Piazza della Navicella. Area: Celio. VILLA GLORI Villa Glori sits on a hill between the districts of Parioli and Flaminio and looks down over the Auditorium Parco della Musica. The park is dedicated as a memorial for all Romans who have given up their lives for Italy. In 1867, a battle took place in Vincenzo Glori’s vineyard, where the Cairoli brothers led 70 fighters against the papal troops.

The pope’s forces defeated the rebel group and the scattered survivors fled to join Garibaldi’s army. In 1923 Rome decided to make the park a memorial park to all the victims of world war one, later re-dedicating the park to all Romans who died for their country. Area: Parioli. VILLA PAMPHILJ Comprising 184 hectres, this is Rome's largest landscaped public park. Located in the Monteverde district, the park is divided in two by Via Leone XIII, with numerous entrances on the surrounding roads. One of the best-preserved villas, the Villa Pamphilj house was recently restored for government receptions. Purchased by Pamfilio Pamphilj in 1630, the estate was later developed by Pope Innocent X who commissioned the architects Algardi and Grimaldi to design a larger villa, which was completed in 1647. The Italian state purchased part of the land in 1957 and, after numerous additional acquisitions, opened the park to the public in 1972. There is the Casino del Bel Respiro, which hosts international meetings and state receptions; the Garden Theatre, designed for outdoor performances; and the Villino Corsini, which is the seat of the Casa dei Teatri. You can also see the Aqua Traiana aqueduct which now supplies the many fountains in the park, the Fontanone on the Gianicolo as well as fountains in Trastevere. The Vivi Bistrot cafè and restaurant is located in the heart of the park and there are numerous walking trails and bike paths. Area: Monteverde. VILLA SCIARRA The Villa Sciarra is located on the slopes of the Janiculum. The villa changed hands many times, and was given its current title when it was acquired by the Colonna di Sciarra family in 1811. It was severely damaged during the 1849 fighting between Garibaldi and the papal forces at Porta S. Pancrazio nearby. In 1902 a wealthy American couple, George Wurts and Henriette Tower, reassembled and restored the estate and renovated rthe house in the neo-renaissance style. After Wurts’ death, Tower donated the villa to the Italian state as a public park in 1932. The 70,000 sqm-estate, which hosts the Italian Institute of Germanic Studies, features exotic examples of topiary shaped to resemble animals and a garden representing the months of the year. One of Rome's smaller and lesser-known parks, the villa can be accessed at Via Dandolo 47. Area: Monteverde.

Pictured at the top Parco dell'Appia Antica, below left to right: Villa Sciarra, Villa Borghese, Villa Pamphilj.

ARTandSEEK English-language cultural workshops and visits to museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforkids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandseekforkids.com. Bioparco Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and offers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it. Bowling Silvestri This sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.

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There are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com. Casa del Parco Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com. Casina di Raffaello Play centre in Villa Borghese offering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Raffaello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadiraffaello.it.

Cinecittà World This 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special effects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it. Climbing Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, Thurs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473. Explora The 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it. Go-karting Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it. Gymboree This children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, offering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it. Hortis Urbis Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it. Il Nido Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.

Luneur Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it. Rainbow Magicland The 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it. Time Elevator A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. The time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it. Zoomarine This amusement and aquatic park outside Rome offers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.

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Rome’s artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant importantstreet street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre. Here is where to is find Rome’s mainthe street artstreet projects murals. from the centre. Here where to find main artand projects and murals around Rome. Esquilino Esquilino Murals Murals byby Alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Pistone, Nicola Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, Diamond. PiazzaMafredo Manfredo Fanti 47. Piazza Fanti 47.

Marconi Marconi The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artistSeth Seth is located in a street artist is located in a former former soap factory Via Antonio soap factory on Viaon Antonio AvogaAvogadro, opposite dro, opposite Ostiense'sOstiense’s landmark Gasometro. For For details see landmark Gasometro. details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com.

Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz Metropoliz This This former former meat meat factory factory inin the the outskirts of Rome is nowa astreet street outskirts of Rome is now art art museumasaswell well as as being museum being home hometoto some200 200squatting squatters,migrants. many of The them some migrants. The Museo dell’Altrodi e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altroveor diMAAM, Metropoliz, or MAAM, Metropoliz, is only open is only open on Saturdays, and on Saturdays, and features the work features the work of more than 300 of more than 300 artists including artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Edoardo Kobra, and GioDiamond. Pistone, Pistone, Sten&Lex See Sten&Lex, Pablo Echaurren and MAAM Facebook page for details. Borondo. See MAAM Via Prenestina 913. Facebook page for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense Ostiense Fronte Del by by Blu.Blu. Via Via del Porto Fronte Del Porto Porto del Fluviale. Porto Fluviale. Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Fluviale. Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Magazzini Shelley by Generali. Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense. Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Pigneto Ostiense. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Pigneto Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

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Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi. Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Fortebraccio. 2501 mural on Via Blu Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Francesco Baracca. Francesco Baracca. Prati Prati Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo Nuovo Mercato Trionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria. Andrea Doria. theSabotino. bear by Daniza the bear byDaniza ROA. Via ROA. Via Sabotino. Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Magee. Via Via The by Fintan Cristoforo Numai. Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals andand Gio Tunnel muralsby byMr MrTHOMS THOMS Pistone. Via Decio Mure.Mure. Gio Pistone. Via Decio Nido di di Vespe ViaVia del Nido VespebybyLucamaleonte. Lucamaleonte. Monte del Grano. del Monte del Grano. Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89. Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by byBlu. Blu.Via ViaCiciliano Ciciliano and and Via Via Murals Palombini (Casal Palombini (Casaldè dèPazzi). Pazzi). Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station. Metro B station. S.S. Basilio Basilio SanBa SanBa features features large-scale large-scale works on on the façades façades of in the of social-housing social-housingblocks blocks the disadvantaged north-east suburb of in the disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerasuburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. tion project includes works by Italian The project artistsregeneration Agostino Iacurci, Hitnesincludes and Blu works by Italian artists alongside Spain's Liqen. ViaAgostino Maiolati, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Spain’s Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, S. Giovanni Via Treia. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S. Giovanni Apulia corner of Via Farsalo. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

It’s aa New NewDay Daybyby Alice Pasquini. It’s Alice Pasquini. Via Via Anton Ludovico. Anton Ludovico. S. Lorenzo S. Lorenzo Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Feminicide mural by Elisa Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo. Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi. Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Mural by by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Via Aquilonia. Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia. S. Pietro S. Pietro Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S. di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo. Gallo. Testaccio Testaccio Hunted byby ROA. ViaVia Galvani. HuntedWolf Wolf ROA. Galvani. #KindComments by by Alice Pasquini, Via #KindComments Alice Pasquini, Volta, Testaccio market. Via Volta, Testaccio market. Tor Pignattara Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via ViaAntonio AntonioTempesta. Tempesta. Dulk. Etnik.Via ViaBartolomeo Bartolomeo Perestrello Etnik. Perestrello 51. 51. Coﬀee Break Etam Cru. Via Coffee Break by Etamby Cru. Via Ludovico Pavoni. Ludovico Pavoni. Tom by Jef Via Gabrio TomSawyer Sawyer by Aerosol. Jef Aerosol. Via Serbelloni. Gabrio Serbelloni. Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema PasoliniVia by Acqua Diavù.Bullicante. Former Cinema Impero, Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Alessi. Herakut. Capua 14. GaleazzoVia Alessi. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Herakut. Via Capua 14. Oddi 6. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia Tor Big Marancia The City Life scheme features 14-m The Big City Life scheme tall murals by 22 Italian and features interna14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and tional street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia andartists Jerico.including The idea international street was to transform area's of Mr Klevra, Seth,the Gaia andblocks Jerico. flats into an open-air art museum. Via The idea was to transform the area’s Tor Marancia. www.bigcity.life.it. blocks of ﬂats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth. Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Wanted in Rome • November 2023 | 13

ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS DETAILS. IN SOME CASES RESERVATIONS ARE REQUIRED. VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

14 | November 2023 • Wanted in Rome

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Capitoline Museums

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

MATTATOIO

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Museo Canonica

Palazzo Merulana

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

ROME'S MAJOR

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Borghese Museum

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Crypta Balbi

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Capitoline Museums

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

MATTATOIO

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Keats-Shelley House

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

Palazzo Merulana

Museo Napoleonico

Wanted in Rome • November 2023 | 17

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ff-maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Multidisciplinary venue devoted to visual art, design, architecture and fashion design at Palazzo Brancaccio. Via Merulana 248, tel. 0631709949, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Delfini, Via dei Delfini 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pastificio Cerere

This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

18 | November 2023 • Wanted in Rome

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at affordable prices by artists working in various fields. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo

Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Galleria Russo

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.

Galleria Varsi

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Plus Arte Puls

A dynamic gallery promoting street culture and contemporary art movements. Via di Affogalasino 34, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

Gavin Brown's Enterprise

Sala 1

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

La Nuova Pesa

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino d’Arte Moderna

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Monitor

This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Nero Gallery

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.

Nomas Foundation

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

The Gallery Apart

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

TraleVolte

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

Von Buren Contemporary

Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via Giulia 13, tel. 3351633518, www.vonburencontemporary.com.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

Wanted in Rome • November 2023 | 19

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Forest School

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where to go in Rome

WHAT’S ON

Emanuele Luzzati, original illustration for L’Uccel Belverde (Einaudi, Torino 1972) Genova, Casa Luzzati / © Lele Luzzati Foundation. See page 23.

Wanted in Rome • November 2023 | 21

EXHIBITIONS J. R. R. TOLKIEN 1973–2023: UOMO, PROFESSORE, AUTORE FROM 15 NOV

Italy will mark the 50th anniversary of the death of British fantasy writer J.R.R. Tolkien with a major exhibition at the National Gallery of Modern Art (GNAM) in Rome. The exhibition will reportedly be opened by Italian premier Giorgia Meloni, who is a devoted fan of Tolkien’s most famous novel The Lord of the Rings. The show will comprise more than 150 works including photographs, documents, letters and virtual reconstructions of the first editions of the books from which the blockbuster fantasy trilogy by director Peter Jackson is based. The exhibition is curated by Oronzo Cilli, member of the British Tolkien Society and president of the Italian Tolkien Association, and produced by Alessandro Nicosia. “This is the first exhibition in Italy on Tolkien. Many were held in Oxford, in Paris, but there was no such event in Italy”, Nicosia told Artribune. “The exhibition will be composed of a scientific part (with books, letters and documents) and a multimedia part which will showcase Tolkien’s plans in a spectacular way, as well as presenting everything that revolves around the fantasy world created by the British writer” - Nicosia said - “Finally, it will be possible to immerse yourself in the world of Middle-earth thanks to the reproduction (in loop) of the full version of The Lord of the Rings”. GNAM, Viale delle Belle Arti 131, www.lagallerianazionale. com.

THE TOUCH OF PYGMALION: RUBENS AND SCULPTURE IN ROME 14 NOV-18 FEB

Galleria Borghese stages an exhibition that investigates how the Flemish Baroque master Peter Paul Rubens was influenced by his travels in Italy in the early 17th

22 | November 2023 • Wanted in Rome

Rome to host major exhibition devoted to Tolkien. Image: The Lord of the Rings by Peter Jackson.

century. During his time in Italy Rubens was profoundly influenced by Titian and Caravaggio as well as Renaissance masters Michelangelo, Raphael and Leonardo da Vinci. He also studied classical Greek and Roman art and copied works of the Italian masters, animating the antique in a style that would become known as Baroque. The exhibition examines how the artist’s work took on a new and decisive force in the years following his return to his homeland. Exhibition organisers say the show “highlights the extraordinary contribution made by Rubens to a new conception of the antique, of the concepts of natural and imitation, on the threshold of the Baroque.” Galleria Borghese, Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5, www.galleriaborghese.beniculturali.it.

periences. With references to Homer, Alexander the Great, the Bible, Ludwig van Beethoven and Paul Celan, Kiefer’s exhibition explores themes related to the artist’s decades-long career, including myth, history and human knowledge. Galleria Lorcan O’Neill, Vicolo de’ Catinari 3, www.lorcanoneill.com.

VAN GOGH EXPERIENCE 28 OCT-31 MARCH

Rome hosts an immersive, multimedia exhibition dedicated to the world of Vincent Van Gogh. The experience involves the use of video mapping and multimedia projections to conjure up the swirling landscapes, starry nights and sunflowers painted by the Dutch artist. Organisers say that visitors will be “living protagonists” in the artist’s

ANSLEM KIEFER 10 NOV-JAN

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill presents a solo exhibition by German painter and sculptor Anselm Kiefer, one of the world’s most acclaimed contemporary artists. The exhibition will feature eight new monumental paintings on the theme of islands and the sea and one new sculpture – all works created in the last two years. A symbol of isolation, exploration and the desire for connection, the island theme has fascinated Kiefer since he was a boy. In the exhibition, Kiefer examines these concepts by drawing inspiration from various mythologies, literature and his own personal exSusanna and the Elders, Peter Paul Rubens, c. 1606-1607, Galleria Borghese, Rome. Photo. M. Coen © Galleria Borghese.

paintings: “under your feet the pebbles he painted, between your fingers the dazzling yellow of his thousand sunflowers.” Thanks to virtual reality technology, visitors will also have the chance to see the world “through Van Gogh’s eyes”. The show, which does not include original paintings by the artist, is presented by Next Exhibition and will be held at the former Cinema Avila on Corso d’Italia 37d. For tickets and visiting times see website, www.nextmuseum.net.

ESCHER

31 OCT-1 APRIL

Palazzo Bonaparte displays 300 works by Maurits Cornelius Escher (1898-1972) in what organisers boast is the “largest and most complete exhibition ever dedicated” to the Dutch graphic artist. The blockbuster show includes the artist’s best known images as well as numerous works never shown in public before. Highlights include Hand with reflecting sphere (1935), Bond of Union (1956), Day and Night (1938) and Metamorphosis II (1939). Escher is famed for his mathematically-inspired woodcuts, lithographs and mezzotints featuring visually stunning designs that explore the seemingly impossible limits of architecture and infinity. Fascinated by geometrical shapes, Escher distorted perspective and parallax to create scenes in which the eye is deceived, often leaving the viewer confounded. The artist travelled extensively in Italy, living with his wife and son in Rome’s Monteverde district from 1923 until the fascist political climate prompted the family’s departure to Switzerland in 1935. Piazza Venezia 5, www.mostrepalazzobonaparte.it.

FAVOLOSO CALVINO 14 OCT-4 FEB

On the centenary of the birth of Italo Calvino, an exhibition at the Scuderie del Quirinale celebrates the Italian writer and his relationship with the arts. The exhibition highlights the creative path of the writer, who died in 1985, by displaying art that inspired his writ-

Anselm Kiefer at Galleria Lorcan O'Neill. Noah, 2021.

ings, imagination and theories. The show comprises more than 200 works including paintings, sculptures, drawings, illustrations by artists from the Renaissance to today, medieval illuminated manuscripts and tapestries. The show includes masterpieces by artists including Carpaccio, de Chirico, Gnoli, Melotti, Escher and Paul Klee alongside portraits of the writer by photographers Carla Cerati and Sebastião Salgado. The exhibition also includes many original volumes and first editions of Calvino’s books, displayed with some of the author’s most famous quotations. Ogranisers say the art on display illustrates Calvino’s journey through life including “choices, political and civil commitment, places and above all literary production”. Calvino is best known internationally for his Cosmicomics collection of short stories (1965) and the novels Invisible Cities (1972) and If on a winter’s night a traveler (1979). Scuderie del Quirinale, Via Ventiquattro Maggio 16, www.scuderiequirinale.it.

photographs printed by McCullin himself, the exhibition’s themes include early work in London and Berlin, war, international travel, British landscapes and still life, and the Roman Empire. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.

HELMUT NEWTON: LEGACY 6 OCT-3 MARCH

Rome’s Ara Pacis Museum presents an exhibition featuring around 250 photographs by the famed photographer. Newton (1920-2004) was one of the most influential and controversial photographers of the 20th century, achieving international fame in the 1970s as a celebrity photographer while working for

DON MCCULLIN IN ROME 10 OCT-28 JAN

Rome’s first major retrospective dedicated to the work of the internationally celebrated British photojournalist Don McCullin will be held at Palazzo delle Esposizioni. Regarded as one of the most significant war photographers of modern times, McCullin has documented the consequences of conflicts in war-torn regions around the world and is also known for his powerful images of homeless people in the UK. Comprising more than 200

Favoloso Calvino at the Scuderie del Quirinale. Emanuele Luzzati, illustration for L’Uccel Belverde, Genova, Casa Luzzati / © Lele Luzzati Foundation.

Wanted in Rome • November 2023 | 23

Vogue magazine. His images were often of a seductive, even gritty nature, and he favoured working in the street over the studio. The exhibition in Rome will feature a selection of his most iconic images alongside previously unpublished works, providing insights into this work and creative process. The exhibition spans Newton’s entire sixdecade career, from fashion magazine covers to his celebrated Big Nudes series. Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, www.arapacis.it.

ALBERTO SORDI E IL SUO TEMPO 22 SEPT-31 DEC

Rome remembers the much-loved Roman actor and comedian Alberto Sordi with an exhibition to mark the 20th anniversary of his death. The exhibition at Casa Museo Alberto Sordi, where the actor lived from 1958 until 2003, contains archive material relating to the icon of Italian cinema. “Sordi impersonated characters of every social class, of every political colour, of every attitude and with them he was able to tell the story of our country”, said Rome’s culture councillor Miguel Gotor. Casa Museo Alberto Sordi, Via Claudio Marcello, www.fondazionemuseoalbertosordi.org.

REGINA VIARUM 20 SEPT-7 JAN

The Istituto centrale per la grafica illustrates the Appian Way through drawings and etchings from the past 500 years to mark Italy’s bid to have the “queen of roads” inserted in the UNESCO World Heritage List. On display are around 70 works depicting the Appia Antica through the centuries by artists including Giovan Battista Piranesi, Walter Crane, Luigi Rossini and Philipp Hackert. Organisers say the exhibition “celebrates the prototype of the entire Roman road system” and highlights a landscape in which antiquity, architecture and nature are intertwined. Istituto centrale per la grafica, Via della Stamperia 6, www.grafica.beniculturali.it.

24 | November 2023 • Wanted in Rome

Don McCullin at Palazzo delle Espozioni. Tormented homeless Irishman, Spitalfields, London, 1970 © Don McCullin, Courtesy Hamiltons Gallery.

GLI DEI RITORNANO 2 SEPT-22 DEC

Italy displays the trove of ancient bronze statues unearthed last year at the San Casciano thermal bath site in Tuscany in an exhibition at the Quirinal Palace in Rome. The votive statues, dating to between the second century BC and the first century AD, emerged intact from the mud at the bottom of a Roman pool in the hilltop town last November. The sensational discovery of the statues – representating divinities including Apollo and Hygieia, as well as emperors, matrons and

ephebes – shed new light on the relationship between the Etruscans and the Romans. Archaeologist Jacopo Tabolli, who led the excavation project, hailed it as a discovery that would “rewrite history” about the transition from the Etruscan civilisation to the Roman Empire, adding that there was “no clear division between the two cultures”. The exhibition is open on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, with an entry fee of €1.50. Reservation is required for the hour-long visit, with full details on the Palazzo Quirinale website, www.palazzo.quirinale.it.

Wanted in Rome • November 2023 | 25

CLASSICAL ACCADEMIA NAZIONALE DI S. CECILIA ANTONIO PAPPANO - IGOR LEVIT 2-4 NOV

Sir Antonio Pappano conducts the Orchestra of the Accademia Nazionale di S. Cecilia, with pianist Igor Levit, performing music by Cherubini, Beethoven, Sibelius and Strauss. 2 Nov 19.30, 3 Nov 20.30, 4 Nov 18.00. Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica.

AUGMENTED PIANO 7 NOV

Held in collaboration with Romaeuropa Festival, Simon Ghraichy piano and Jacopo Baboni Schilingi live computer perform a range of electroacoustic pieces and music by Bach and Liszt, along with the

world premiere of Sonata for piano and live computer, specially commissioned by Accademia di Santa Cecilia. 20.30. Sala Petrassi, Auditorium Parco della Musica.

VIKINGUR OLAFSSON 13 NOV

Pianist Víkingur Ólafsson performs Goldberg Variations by Bach. 20.30. Sala Sinopoli, Auditorium Parco della Musica.

KAZUKI YAMADA - VILDE FRANG 16-18 NOV

Kazuki Yamada conducts the Orchestra of the Accademia Nazionale di S. Cecilia, with violinist Vilde Frang, performing music by Berg and Berlioz. 16 Nov 19.30, 17 Nov 20.30, 18 Nov 18.00. Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica.

Teodor Currentzis conducts the Utopia Orchestra for Santa Cecilia.

26 | November 2023 • Wanted in Rome

UTOPIA ORCHESTRA 22 NOV

Teodor Currentzis conducts the Utopia Orchestra, violin Barnabás Kelemen, performing music by Brahms and Tchaikovsky. 20.30. Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica.

TAN DUN: BUDDHA PASSION 23-25 NOV

Tan Dun conducts the Orchestra of the Accademia Nazionale di S. Cecilia in the Italian premiere of Buddha Passion, in collaboration with Romaeuropa Festival. 23 Nov 19.30, 24 Nov 20.30, 25 Nov 18.00. Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica. All concerts take place in the Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30. For details of tickets and performance times see S. Cecilia website, www.santacecilia.it.

FestivalS ROMAEUROPA FESTIVAL 6 SEPT-19 NOV

Rome’s annual multidisciplinary arts festival returns with the 38th edition of its programme of contemporary dance, theatre, art, music, technology and events for kids. This year there are 90 different shows taking place in 13 venues across the city, involving more than 500 artists from around the world. Some of the many highlights to look forward to in November include the national premiere of Fantasie Meccaniche (4 Nov) dedicated to three celebrated contemporary composers: Ondrej Adámek, Unsuk Chin and Vito Žuraj. The event comprises three ensemble performances of musical compositions by the three composers – Karakuri – Poupée mécanique by Adámek, Fantaisie Mécanique by Chin, and Hors d’œuvre by Žuraj – and concluding with Xerrox Vol. 4 by

Re: incarnation by Qudus Onikeku for Romaeuropa Festival.

Alva Noto. There are numerous kids’ theatre events in November including De Nachtwaker (10-12 Nov) by the Dutch company Het Filiaal Theatermakers. This imaginative poetic show without dialogue centres on a night watchman whose usual work routine is transformed into an unpredictable dream in which everything changes shape. For dance fans, a gran finale comes in the shape of Re: incarnation (18-19 Nov) by rising star of African dance Qudus Onikeku. This vibrant production featuring 10 male and fe-

Hutchings Bekkas Drake Trio to perform for Roma Jazz Festival.

OPERA

phy by Mauro Bigonzetti in this new production by Teatro dell’Opera di Roma. Teatro Costanzi, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA

MEFISTOFELE

ROSSINI & ROSSINI 28 OCT-4 NOV

Louis Lohraseb conducts the orchestra, étoiles, primi ballerini, soloists and corpo di ballo, to music by Rossini and Britten, with choreogra-

28 | November 2023 • Wanted in Rome

male dancers and a live musician is fuelled by the sounds of Nigerian groove, whose afro beat roots are revisited by dance-hall, hip hop and electronic music, in what Romaeuropa describes as “a bridge between the energy and rhythms of yesterday, and the new generation of dancers active on social networks”. For full details in English, see Romaeuropa website, www.romaeuropa.net.

ROMA JAZZ FESTIVAL 2-26 NOV

Under the title Transition, the 47th edition of the Roma Jazz Festival offers a month of concerts at the Auditorium Parco della Musica Ennio Morricone, the Casa del Jazz and Monk Club. The 2023 programme features performances by Italian and international jazz acts including John Scofield Trio (2 Nov), Judith Hill (4 Nov), Tony Levin’s Stick Men (16 Nov) and Hutchings Bekkas Drake Trio (26 Nov). For full details including tickets see the Roma Jazz Festival website, www.romajazzfestival.it.

27 NOV-5 DEC

Teatro dell’Opera presents Mefistofele, the only completed opera with music by Italian composerlibrettist Arrigo Boito, directed by Simon Stone. Michele Mariotti conducts the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma orchestra and choir in this co-pro-

Rossini & Rossini at Teatro dell'Opera di Roma.

duction with Teatro Real di Madrid. Teatro Costanzi, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

Wanted in Rome • November 2023 | 29

CELEBRATING 50 YEARS OF AMERICAN EDUCATION IN ITALY

OCTOBER 6 CONCERT

OCTOBER 13-21 OPERA

RICHARD WAGNER

GEORG FRIEDRICH HÄNDEL

DIE WALKÜRE The Valkyrie 1st Act

GIULIO CESARE IN EGITTO

CONDUCTOR OMER MEIR WELLBER

CONDUCTOR RINALDO ALESSANDRINI DIRECTOR DAMIANO MICHIELETTO

OCTOBER 20 CONCERT

OCTOBER 28 - NOVEMBER 4 BALLET

I TRE CONTROTENORI

ROSSINI & ROSSINI

CARLO VISTOLI RAFFAELE PE ARYEH NUSSBAUM COHEN CONDUCTOR RINALDO ALESSANDRINI

CONDUCTOR FAYÇAL KAROUI CHOREOGRAPHER MAURO BIGONZETTI

TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA ORCHESTRA, CHORUS AND CORPS DE BALLET operaroma.it

PRIVATE SHAREHOLDERS

FOUNDERS

MAIN SPONSOR

PARTNER

PATRONS

CULTURE NEWS ROME SEEKS TO LINK ANCIENT SITES WITH NEW ARCHAEOLOGICAL WALK

Rome has launched an international design competition to create a New Archaeological Walk, reimagining the public spaces and pedestrian routes linking the city's ancient Roman sites. The contest is calling for designs for "a large pedestrian ring" around the Roman Forum, Colosseum, the Baths of Caracalla and the Circus Maximus, incorporating also the Caelian, Palatine and Capitoline hills. The city says the project is "the first step" in the Centro Archeologico Monumentale di Roma plan, which it describes as a "set of transformations that embrace the most important archaeological area in the world." Designs must enhance pedestrian spaces and include plans for more viewing points, street furnishings and greenery, "focusing on the large axis of Via dei Fori Imperiali, no longer just a roadway." The city says the aim of the Nuova Passeggiata Archeologica is to "profoundly change the sense of these places, transforming them into a set of public spaces and balconies overlooking the archaeological area." The competition closes at the end of this year, with Rome set to unveil the winning design in February. "We would like to achieve all this between 2025 and 2026", Rome mayor Roberto Gualtieri told news agency ANSA, adding that some works would already be finished ahead of Jubilee 2025 before completion by 2027. For details of the project see city website, www.comune.roma.it.

Rome unveils plans for New Archaeological Walk.

Piazza del Colosseo, the Italian culture ministry said in a statement. Culture minister Gennaro Sangiuliano said the new measures would free the Colosseum from the scourge of ticket scalping, hailing it as "a new era" for the archaeological park which welcomed a record two million visitors this summer.

VATICAN MUSEUMS TO RAISE TICKET PRICES IN 2024

COLOSSEUM COMBATS TICKET TOUTS

The Colosseum has introduced tickets with the names of visitors to tackle the widespread practice of tickets being bought up by bots and resold at inflated prices. The new ticket system took effect on 18 October, with tickets available for purchase via the www.colosseo. it website as well as from call centres and in person from ticket offices. The number of tickets sold on site will be doubled, to facilitate visitors who have not – or have been unable to – purchase tickets online. A new ticket office will also open at Largo della Salara / Via dei Fori Imperiali, in addition to the existing one in

Colosseum introduces new ticketing system to combat ticket scalping.

32 | November 2023 • Wanted in Rome

Tickets for Vatican Museums to jump from €17 to €20 in January.

The Vatican Museums is to raise the price of its ordinary full entry tickets to €20, up from €17, with effect from 1 January 2024. There will be no change to the reduced fare, for those who are entitled to it, neither will there be any change to the reduced entry ticket which will remain unchanged at €8. The price hike is "strictly linked to the general increase in costs", according to a statement on the museums' website, which also said that the non-compulsory reservation fee of €5 "remains confirmed". The Vatican Museums recently announced that it will be extending its opening hours from 08.00 until 19.00, also with effect from 1 January 2024, as part of a major shake-up of its admission policies ahead of Jubilee 2025.

Andy Devane

Wanted in Rome • November 2023 | 33

lassical lassical

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city. The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city. There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums. Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica. Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza,

Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone 32a, RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome.

often concerts, festivals and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and7 the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards. Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com 5034 | Oct 2018 • Wanted Rome in Rome | November 2023 •in Wanted

MUSIC MUSIC THEATR THEATRE CINEMA CINEMA VENUES VENUES

MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

inema inema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wantedshow in Rome website for The following cinemas movies in English weekly updates. or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for Adriano, Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 weeklyPiazza updates. Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 0686391361 Barberini, Piazza BarberiniMastroianni 24-26, 1, tel. Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello 0686391361 tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 068553485 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 068553485 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 066861068 Odeon, Piazza Stefano 22, tel. Nuovo Sacher, LargoJacini Ascianghi 1, 0686391361 tel. 065818116

Space Moderno, Piazza della 44, tel. Odeon, Piazza Stefano JaciniRepubblica 22, tel. 0686391361 06892111 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec06892111 chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

dd p p 38 Wanted in Rome | December 2017

Teatro 06684000314, ww T Teatro Belli, 06684000314, ww ww T Teatro ww Brancaccio, ww T Teatro ww Ghione, ww T Teatro ww 06684000311, ww T 06684000311, ww

ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net 50 | Jan 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel. 14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Wanted 51 in |Rome • November | 37 Oct 2018 • Wanted2023 in Rome

38 | November 2023 • Wanted in Rome

gorski

a By Kate Z

PIZZA MARGHERITA

HOW TO MAKE GREAT PIZZA AT HOME Making your own pizza from scratch is a surefire way to impress and is a fun activity to do with friends and family. This recipe is a simple way to make great pizza at home using a domestic kitchen oven and, while the result may not be exactly like a real Roman pizzeria, it allows you to unleash your creativity and add whatever toppings you choose. Although the process of making the dough and leaving it to rise takes a while, this can be done in advance, so the actual topping and cooking of the pizza takes a matter of minutes. Cooking the base by itself for a few minutes before turning it over and adding the toppings will ensure a crunchy, non-soggy, crust, as will draining as much liquid as possible out of the mozzarella before using. The quantities below will make enough pizza for about 4 people, but you can use whatever size and shape of metal baking tin you have at home.

For the base: 500g flour 00 1 x 7g sachet of dried yeast 3 pinches of salt 1 pinch of sugar 350ml water Extra virgin olive oil

For the topping: 4 x 250g balls of mozzarella (fior di latte) 1 large jar of tomato passata Fresh basil leaves Sieve the flour into a large bowl. Add the yeast, salt and sugar and pour in the water. Mix everything together with a fork, once the dough starts to come together, tip it onto a floured board or work surfaced. Continue to knead with your hands, constantly pushing the dough back onto itself, until you have a soft, elastic consistency. If the dough is too wet, add a little flour; if it is too dry add a little more water or a drop of olive oil. In a clean bowl pour in about 4 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil. Place the ball of dough into the bowl, cover with plastic cling film and put the bowl into the oven (turned off) or a dark cupboard. Leave it to prove for at least 3 hours until the dough has doubled in size. Once the dough has risen, tip it back onto a floured surface along with the oil. Knead it well until the texture is smooth and soft. Divide the dough into pieces (the size depends on the baking tins you have and how thick you want the base of your pizza) and leave it to rest while you prepare the topping. Turn the oven on to heat to its highest temperature. Pour the passata into a bowl, add a splash of olive oil and a pinch of salt and mix well. Cut the mozzarella into cubes and use your hands to squeeze out as much liquid as possible to ensure that the pizza will not be soggy. Grease the baking tins with olive oil. Push the dough into the tins using your hands, try not to create any holes. Put the pizza into the lowest part of the oven and cook for 5-8 minutes then turn the base over in the tin. Spread the passata over the pizza and add some mozzarella and a drizzle of olive oil then place the pizza back into the low shelf of the oven for about 5 more minutes until the edges are crispy and the mozzarella has melted. Add a few fresh basil leaves and serve immediately.

Dolce, Via Tripolitania 4, tel. 0686215696. Ketumbar, Via Galvani 24, tel. 0657305338. ‘Na Cosetta, Via Ettore Giovenale 54, tel. 0645598326. Ciclostazione Frattini, Via Pietro Frattini 136/138, tel. 065503707.

Indirizzi

Coromandel, Via di Monte Giordano 60/61, tel. 0668802461.

Atlas Coelestis, Via Malcesine 41, tel. 0635072243. Porto Fluviale, Via del Porto Fluviale 22, tel. 065743199. Rosti al Pigneto, Via Bartolomeo D’Alviano 65, tel. 062752608. Doppiozero, Via Ostiense 68, tel. 0657301961. Misto, Via Fezzan 21, tel. 0645471971. Il Bistrot delle Officine Farneto, Via dei Monti della Farnesina 77, tel. 0690286945. Mavi, Lungotevere di Pietra Papa 201, tel. 065584801.

Where to brunch in Rome Our picks of the best restaurants and cafes serving brunch on weekends – from Eggs Benedict to American-style pancakes. COROMANDEL Located near Piazza Navona, this cafe recreates the feel of a cosy 1950s home. If you fancy English-style eggs or pancakes for breakfast, then this is your place. On the menu you’ll find: simple eggs, omelette with roast potatoes and sausage, and either pancakes with bacon and maple syrup, scrambled eggs, maple syrup and icing sugar, or sweet pancakes with chocolate and hazelnut sauce, banana and flaked almonds. There are also smoothies, yogurt and fruit. Sat-Sun from 11.00-15.00. DOLCE For a New York-style Sunday brunch, head to Dolce, the restaurant and bakery in the Africano district. The kitchen is transformed into a bakery with a menu brimming with international cuisine. From eggs to pancakes, or even to sandwiches, sweet and savoury are placed side by side. You can choose between an omelette with three fillings of your choice, or an Eggs Benedict on toasted bread baked in-house. Sun 12.00-15.00. KETUMBAR Ketumbar’s organic brunch, served at weekends, is the talk of Testaccio. There’s a buffet ranging from antipasti to cakes and pastries, that changes seasonally. There are also many different soups, cous cous, dark taragna polente, fritters, hummus, cod au gratin, granary focaccia, salads and vegan dishes. The menu is accompanied by organic wine and artisan beers. At Ketumbar, brunch is also baby-friendly. There’s a kid’s menu and a space dedicated to young children, cared for by qualified minders. Sat-Sun 12.30-16.00. ‘NA COSETTA In this Italian bistro in Pigneto, you can enjoy brunch, otherwise known in Italian as the ‘colanzo’. Dishes are both sweet and savoury and stick to a true Italian style with a few of the chef’s special touches. Pastries and cakes are made by pastry chef Stefania Guerrizio. Sun 12.30-16.00. CICLOSTAZIONE FRATTINI If you’re on the hunt for a place in the Portuense district where you can sit outside and let your kids run about, Ciclostazione Frattini should be your go-to brunch spot. A restaurant, pizzeria and grill, here the whole family can have fun in the indoor Baby Garden and Baby Park. The menu includes more than 30 options, ranging from fresh artisan pasta to homemade cakes and desserts. There are main courses such as meat and fish dishes, soups, cooked vegetables, salads, and cheeses. Sat-Sun 12.30-15.30. PORTO FLUVIALE This crowded Ostiense restaurant offers a buffet brunch menu containing around 60 dishes: hot and cold pasta dishes, soups, raw salads and cooked vegetable dishes, meats, and cheeses served with a variety of tasty dips and sauces. Don’t forget to try the delicious pastries and cakes. Sat-Sun 12.30-16.00.

ATLAS COELESTIS Here you can choose between ten different dishes, from antipasti to dessert, which change weekly. There are also roselline di pizza (baked pizza in the shape of roses) to taste, as the restaurant has reopened its pizza oven and in the evening it serves pizzas made with wholewheat flour. On the kid’s menu you’ll find three different options for the main meal and ice cream for dessert. Sun 12.30. ROSTI AL PIGNETO If you feel like spending the weekend outside in a huge garden suitable for children, Rosti is the place for you. For starters you can tuck into the gnocchi with tomato and basil sauce, cannelloni with ricotta and tomato, ravioli with burrata, tomato and basil, or vegetarian crepes. For main course there’s seasoned meat balls, veal steak with mushrooms, roast pork with honey, turkey nuggets with yoghurt and mustard, anchovies marinated in tarragon and chilli, or cod balls with tomato, as well as salads and desserts. Sat-Sun 12.30-16.00. DOPPIOZERO Here you can enjoy a tasty brunch that benefits from its onsite bakery. The buffet at the weekend includes pasta, pizza (many different types), olive bread, cous cous, salmon, meat, buffalo mozarella and baked goods such as muffins and brownies. Sat-Sun 12.30-15.30. MISTO Located in the Africano district, Misto serves club sandwiches, pancakes, muffins, salads, and seasonal fruits made into juices and smoothies. You can choose one dish from a choice of three: the club sandwich, fillet of salmon or veggie sandwich and then add either pancakes or a salad, then choose between a savoury muffin or Scottish scone, and select a fruit juice. Kids can enjoy either a savoury muffin or Scottish scone, pancakes, fruit salad or orange or blueberry juice. We also recommend trying one of the alcoholic fruit cocktails or a pomegranate spritz. Sun 11.30-15.30. IL BISTROT DELLE OFFICINE FARNETO Every Sunday you can tuck into a tasty brunch at the bistro in Officine Farneto, on Via Monti della Farnesina. The dishes range from homemade fresh pasta to meat and fish courses, cooked vegetables and desserts. We recommend the freshly-prepared burgers. Sun from 12.30. MAVI At Mavi you can enjoy a brunch that’s a little different – part buffet, part à la carte. On the buffet you’ll find eggs, savoury pancakes and many different salad recipes, while from the menu you can order dishes such as burgers, bagels, cakes and sweet pancakes. The buffet includes coffee, water and fruit juice. Sun 13.00-16.00.

www.puntarellarossa.it

Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 27, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com

Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

42 | November 2023 • Wanted in Rome

Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

44 | November 2023 • Wanted in Rome

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers • Ambulance tel. 118 • Carabinieri tel. 112 • Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 • Fire brigade tel. 115 • Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 • Police tel. 113 • Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355

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