Wanted in Rome - September 2023

EDITORIALS MISCELLANY WHAT'S ON

4. ROME UNVEILS ANCIENT RUINS OF LOST THEATRE OF NERO

Andy Devane

6. RYDER CUP 2023 IN ROME: A QUICK GUIDE

8. ROME'S PARKS

10. ROME FOR children

12.

20. EXHIBITIONS

22. Classical

22. festivals

22. OPERA

26. Culture

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Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 31/08/2023

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CONTENTS

4 ROME UNVEILS ANCIENT RUINS OF LOST THEATRE

20 festivals

22 opera

6 RYDER CUP 2023 IN ROME: A QUICK GUIDE

OF NERO

ROME UNVEILS ANCIENT RUINS OF LOST THEATRE OF NERO

DISCOVERY OF REMAINS OF LEGENDARY THEATRE MADE DURING EXCAVATIONS NEAR

During the summer archaeologists in Rome announced the discovery of what they believe are the ruins of the Theatre of Nero whose location has always been a mystery.

The legendary private theatre was built by Emperor Nero, who reigned from 54-64 AD, however until now it was known only from ancient Roman texts.

Andy Devane

The find was made close to St Peter’s Square in the grounds of Palazzo della Rovere, the home of the Equestrian Order of the Holy Sepulchre of Jerusalem, a historic Catholic order of knighthood under the protection of the Holy See.

Hailing it as “exceptionally important”, Rome’s archaeological superintendent Daniela Porro said the discovery testifies

The ruins of the lost Theatre of Nero were found near St Peter's in Rome.

“to the presence of the Theatrum Neronis mentioned in ancient sources from Pliny to Suetonius and Tacitus, but so far never found.”

Archaeologists unearthed part of a hemicycle-

shaped seating area, marble columns, goldleaf plaster decorations and rooms believed to have been used to store theatre costumes and stage sets.

They also found precious first-century AD artefacts including a two-faced Roman head of Janus, rare examples of 10th-century glass coloured goblets, and items related to pilgrims in the Middle Ages including a crucifix and rosary beads.

The excavations, which got underway in 2020, are part of the redevelopment of the Renaissance palace as a future Four Seasons Hotel which reportedly plans to open in time to welcome the hordes of pilgrims and visitors expected for the Vatican’s Jubilee 2025.

The unearthed artefacts are set to go on public display while the ruins will be covered over again once all studies have been completed.

Italian television channel Rai Storia filmed a documentary at the site, titled Sotto il suolo di Roma (Under the soil of Rome), which is scheduled to be broadcast in October as part of the series Italia, viaggio nella bellezza (Italy, a journey into beauty).

All images courtesy Soprintendenza Speciale Archeologia, Belle Arti e Paesaggio di Roma.

Artefacts found include Roman head of Janus, c. first century AD.

Gold-decorated stucco found during excavations at the site

Excavation in the walled garden of Palazzo della Rovere.

RYDER CUP 2023 IN ROME: A QUICK GUIDE

ITALY HOSTS RYDER CUP FOR THE FIRST TIME

Rome will host the golf world’s biggest tournament, the Ryder Cup, at the Marco Simone Golf & Country Club from 25 September to 1 October.

The prestigious event, which dates to 1927 and is in its 44th edition, is being held in Italy for the first time.

Considered golf’s greatest team showcase, the Ryder Cup is the most followed international sporting event after the Olympic Games and the Football World Cup.

Every two years, 24 of the best players from Europe and the US face off in match play competition.

A contest between two teams comprising the 12 strongest European and US golfers, the Ryder Cup is the only sporting event in which Europe competes as a team.

Over the decades the US has claimed 27 wins, against 14 by Europe.

Team selection

The US team will comprise the top six eligible players in the points rankings with six picks from captain Zach Johnson.

The European Team will be made up from the top three eligible players from the European Points List, the top three eligible players from the World Points List and six picks from European captain Luke Donald.

Two of the team’s five vice captains in the Ryder Cup are Italian brothers Francesco and Edoardo Molinari.

At the time of writing, the players confirmed on the European team include Viktor Hovland, Rory McIlroy, Jon Rahm and Tyrell Hatton.

The US team includes World Number 1 Scottie Scheffler and US Open champion Wyndham Clark, Brian Harman, Patrick Cantlay, Max Homa, Xander Schauffele, Brooks Koepka, Justin Thomas, Rickie Fowler, Jordan Spieth, Collin Morikawa and Sam Burns.

Venue

Located 17 km north-east of Rome, the 150-hectare Marco Simone course with its 27 holes has been redeveloped specially for the major event which is set to welcome 50,000 spectators each day.

Format

The first days will be dedicated to practice sessions, with the opening ceremony scheduled on 28 September and the main action taking place over the subsequent three days, from 29 September until 1 October.

US captain Zach Johnson and European captain Luke Donald.

The first two days will include one fourmatch session of fourball and one fourmatch session of foursomes. The final day is reserved for 12 singles matches.

Points system

The three days of the matches consist of 28 total matches, each of which is worth one point. There are no extra holes in Ryder Cup matches. Should the two sides be tied after 18 holes, each side earns a half point.

To win the Ryder Cup outright, a team must collect 14.5 of the 28 points available. In the case of a 14-14 tie, the winning team from the previous Ryder Cup retains the trophy.

Getting there

The only way for spectators to access Marco Simone Golf and Country Club is by shuttle bus from one of the Park and Ride, or Train and Ride facilities.

All taxis will be directed to Park and Ride 3 (PR3), where spectators will take the free shuttle bus to Marco Simone Golf and Country Club. There is a complimentary shuttle between the train stations Ponte Mammolo (Metro B) and La Rustica UIR (FL2 railway), and Marco Simone. The service will be active

from 26 September until 1 October, with the first shuttle bus services departing at 05.00.

Both shuttle services, from Ponte Mammolo (TR1) and La Rustica (TR2), take about an hour to get to the venue.

Tickets

General admission tickets for Friday, Saturday, and Sunday are sold out.

However there are some special packages still available aling with general admission tickets for Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday.

All tickets are digital and must be assigned to a named attendee in advance, for full details see Ryder Cup website, https://www. rydercup.com/my-tickets.

The Marco Simone Golf & Country Club near Rome will host the 2023 Ryder Cup.

This park was originally the home of King Victor Emmanuel III during the first half of the 20th century. It now houses the Egyptian embassy and consulate. The park is also a training ground for athletes, a concert stage for music-lovers, and a haven for locals from all that is hectic. The park hosts the long-running Incontra il Mondo festival of world music each summer. Its landscape is partly wooded and there is a lake with canoeing. In addition, the park’s 67m-high Monte Antenne gives hikers a panoramic view as well as access to an archaeological site which uncovered the ruins of an 1870 fort. Area: Salario.

PARCO DEGLI ACQUEDOTTI

This 240-hectare green space, tucked in the Appia Antica regional park, is known for possessing over half of the 11 major ancient Roman aqueducts and it takes around two hours to walk the whole network. The park's Villa Vignacce was built between the second and fourth centuries AD most likely by the brick-maker Q. Servilius Pudens. You can even see Pudens’ stamp on some of the bricks, a rarity as buildings were usually constructed so the stamps were not visible. Another architectural highlights is the Casale di Roma Vecchia, a house-tower that was likely used as part of a coaching inn during the 13th century. There is also the burial chamber of the “tomb of a hundred steps” along with some of Via Latina’s paving stones. Area: Appia Antica.

PARCO DELL'APPIA ANTICA

This wedge-shaped piece of land stretches over an impressive 3,400 hectares, and encompasses the rural estates Tormarancia and Farnesiana, Tor Fiscale’s green area, the Caffarella valley and 16 km of the ancient consular road, as well as various natural and man-made attractions. Its location adjacent to the Alban Hills makes it a biological hub and a favourite place for nature lovers. The park is closed to private traffic but can be explored by taking numerous bicycle and walking tours. In additon to the Caffarella valley, the principal sites include the Porta S. Sebastiano, Cecilia Metella, Circo di Massenzio, and a ride up Via Appia Antica. Other places of interest are the Museo delle Mura, the church of S. Urbano, the Basilica of St Sebastian and its catacombs, the St Callixtus catacombs, the Circus and Villa of Maxentius, the Mausoleum of Romulus, the Caetani Castle, and the Villa Quintili and aqueduct. Area: Appia Antica.

VILLA BORGHESE

Founded on 85 hectares and five centuries of history, Villa Borghese

stretches from Via Veneto to the heart of Parioli. It began as a 16th-century vineyard until Pope Paul V’s nephew, Cardinal Scipione Borghese, made it a private park. The Borghese family handed over ownership of the park to the city in 1903. The Pincian hill, or Pincio, is located on the edge of Piazza del Popolo, and offers stunning views of the capital. Pincio's gardens and staircases were laid out in 1809-14 according to designs by Giuseppe Valadier. Bikes and rickshaws can be rented throughout the park which contains the city's zoo, known as the Bioparco. It also plays host to one of the biggest equestrian events in Rome each May at the Piazza di Siena. The park is best known for housing the Galleria Borghese, home to one of the world's finest art collections with sculptures by Bernini and Canova, and paintings by Caravaggio, Correggio, Raphael and Titian. There is also another museum in the park's orangery: the Museo Carlo Bilotti, Aranciera di Villa Borghese, whose collection includes 18 works by de Chirico. The park contains a recreation of Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre which stages an annual Shakespeare festival; the state-of-the-art Casa del Cinema which screens Italian classics and holds foreign film festivals; and the world’s smallest cinema, the Cinema dei Piccoli. There is also a small artificial lake, known as the laghetto, where visitors can go boating. Area: centre.

VILLA CELIMONTANA

This 110,00-sqm park is situated between the Colosseum and the Baths of Caracalla. In 1553 the Mattei family purchased the land, to construct a villa, and subsequently created the beautiful garden, decorated with exotic plants, bas-reliefs and rich historical artistry. Designed by Michelangelo’s student, Giacomo del Duca, the villa boasts 16th-century fountains, a neo-gothic temple and an obelisk dedicated to Egyptian pharaoh Rameses II, which is rumoured to hold the ashes of Emperor Augustus. Confiscated by the Italian government during world war one, the property is now the home of the Italian Geographical Society and is open to the public. The park can be entered from either Piazza SS. Giovanni e Paolo or from Piazza della Navicella. Area: Celio.

VILLA GLORI

Villa Glori sits on a hill between the districts of Parioli and Flaminio and looks down over the Auditorium Parco della Musica. The park is dedicated as a memorial for all Romans who have given up their lives for Italy. In 1867, a battle took place in Vincenzo Glori’s vineyard, where the Cairoli brothers led 70 fighters against the papal troops.

The pope’s forces defeated the rebel group and the scattered survivors fled to join Garibaldi’s army. In 1923 Rome decided to make the park a memorial park to all the victims of world war one, later re-dedicating the park to all Romans who died for their country. Area: Parioli.

VILLA PAMPHILJ

Comprising 184 hectres, this is Rome's largest landscaped public park. Located in the Monteverde district, the park is divided in two by Via Leone XIII, with numerous entrances on the surrounding roads. One of the best-preserved villas, the Villa Pamphilj house was recently restored for government receptions. Purchased by Pamfilio Pamphilj in 1630, the estate was later developed by Pope Innocent X who commissioned the architects Algardi and Grimaldi to design a larger villa, which was completed in 1647. The Italian state purchased part of the land in 1957 and, after numerous additional acquisitions, opened the park to the public in 1972. There is the Casino del Bel Respiro, which hosts international meetings and state receptions; the Garden Theatre, designed for outdoor performances; and the Villino Corsini, which is the seat of the Casa dei Teatri. You can also see the Aqua Traiana aqueduct which now supplies the many fountains in the park, the Fontanone on the Gianicolo as well as fountains in Trastevere. The Vivi Bistrot cafè and restaurant is located in the heart of the park and there are numerous walking trails and bike paths. Area: Monteverde.

VILLA SCIARRA

The Villa Sciarra is located on the slopes of the Janiculum. The villa changed hands many times, and was given its current title when it was acquired by the Colonna di Sciarra family in 1811. It was severely damaged during the 1849 fighting between Garibaldi and the papal forces at Porta S. Pancrazio nearby. In 1902 a wealthy American couple, George Wurts and Henriette Tower, reassembled and restored the estate and renovated rthe house in the neo-renaissance style. After Wurts’ death, Tower donated the villa to the Italian state as a public park in 1932. The 70,000 sqm-estate, which hosts the Italian Institute of Germanic Studies, features exotic examples of topiary shaped to resemble animals and a garden representing the months of the year. One of Rome's smaller and lesser-known parks, the villa can be accessed at Via Dandolo 47. Area: Monteverde.

Pictured at the top Parco dell'Appia Antica, below left to right: Villa Sciarra, Villa Borghese, Villa Pamphilj.

ARTandSEEK

English-language cultural workshops and visits to museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforkids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandseekforkids.com.

Bioparco

Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and o ers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it.

Bowling Silvestri

is sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.

ere are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com.

Casa del Parco

Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com.

Casina di Ra aello

Play centre in Villa Borghese o ering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Ra aello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadira aello.it.

Cinecittà World

is 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special e ects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it.

Climbing

Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, urs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473.

Explora

e 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it.

Go-karting

Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it.

Gymboree

is children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, o ering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it.

Hortis Urbis

Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it.

Il Nido

Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.

Luneur

Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it.

Rainbow Magicland

e 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it.

Time Elevator

A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. e time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it.

Zoomarine is amusement and aquatic park outside Rome o ers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

ROME'S MAJOR MUSEUMS

IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS DETAILS. IN SOME CASES RESERVATIONS ARE REQUIRED.

VATICAN MUSEUMS

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00.

Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS

Baths of Diocletian

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30.

Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna

Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

CITY MUSEUMS

Centrale Montemartini

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Capitoline Museums

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

MATTATOIO

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS

Casa di Goethe

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Chiostro Del Bramante

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

Galleria Colonna

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, rst Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.

Museo storico della Liberazione

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Palazzo Merulana

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www. -maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Multidisciplinary venue devoted to visual art, design, architecture and fashion design at Palazzo Brancaccio. Via Merulana 248, tel. 0631709949, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Del ni, Via dei Del ni 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespeci c exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pasti cio Cerere

This non-pro t foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pasti ciocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created speci cally for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at a ordable prices by artists working in various elds. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo

Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works speci cally for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-pro le international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Galleria Russo

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.

Galleria Varsi

A dynamic gallery promoting street culture and contemporary art movements. Via di A ogalasino 34, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Gavin Brown's Enterprise

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of di erent generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

La Nuova Pesa

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino d’Arte Moderna

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Monitor

This contemporary art gallery o ers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Nero Gallery

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.

Nomas Foundation

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Plus Arte Puls

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

Sala 1

This internationally known non-pro t contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

The Gallery Apart

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

TraleVolte

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

Von Buren Contemporary

Rome-based gallery specialising in a ordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via Giulia 13, tel. 3351633518, www.vonburencontemporary.com.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria o ers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

where to go in Rome WHAT’S ON

EXHIBITIONS

GLI DEI RITORNANO

2 SEPT-29 OCT

Italy displays the trove of ancient bronze statues unearthed last year at the San Casciano thermal bath site in Tuscany in an exhibition titled Gli Dei Ritornano (The Gods Return) at the Quirinal Palace in Rome. The votive statues, dating to between the second century BC and the first century AD, emerged intact from the mud at the bottom of a Roman pool in the hilltop town last November. The sensational discovery of the statues – representating divinities including Apollo and Hygieia, as well as emperors, matrons and ephebes – shed new light on the relationship between the Etruscans and the Romans. Archaeologist Jacopo Tabolli, who led the excavation project, hailed it as a discovery that would “rewrite history” about the transition from the Etruscan civilisation to the Roman Empire, adding that there was “no clear division between the two cultures”. The public can visit the exhibition at Palazzo Quirinale on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, with an entry fee of €1.50. Reservation is required for the hour-long visit, with full visiting details on the Quirinale website, www.palazzo.quirinale.it.

LETIZIA BATTAGLIA SENZA FINE

27 MAY-5 NOV

The Baths of Caracalla presents a tribute to the Sicilian photographer Letizia Battaglia – the legendary Italian photographer best known for her shocking images of Mafia murders and arrests in Sicily – who died last year aged 87. Curated by Paolo Falcone, the exhibition features a selection of 92 large format photographs charting 50 years of Battaglia’s photographic work (1971-2020) with iconic images as well as those that are

less known or unpublished. Baths of Caracalla, Viale delle Terme di Caracalla 52. For visiting details see www.soprintendenzaspecialeroma. it.

SEMBRA VIVO!

26 MAY-8 OCT

Fresh from the success of the Van Gogh blockbuster, Palazzo Bonaparte stages an exhibition of hyper-realist sculptures by celebrated contemporary artists. Organisers say the 43 installations on display are so lifelike that they will leave visitors questioning whether they are looking at living beings or inanimate objects. The exhibition features works by 29 international artists including Maurizio Cattelan, Ron Mueck, George Segal, Carole Feuerman and Duane Hanson. Located in Piazza Venezia, the 17th-century Palazzo Bonaparte was once the home of Maria Letizia Ramolino, Napoleon’s mother, who watched the world go by from the building’s green balcony from 1818 until her death in 1836. www.mostrepalazzobonaparte.it.

MICHELANGELO PISTOLETTO: INFINITY

18 MARCH-15 OCT

Chiostro del Bramanate hosts an exhibition dedicated to Michelangelo Pistoletto, one of the main representatives of the Italian Arte Povera movement. The show serves as a retrospective spanning

the 60-year career of the Italian painter and action artist who turns 90 this year. Infinity follows the successful run of collective shows Love, Enjoy, Dream and Crazy, and will once again be curated by Danilo Eccher who describes it as “a group exhibition by a single artist”. As suggested by its title, the exhibition proposes “an infinite number of ways of making art, an infinite number of ways of seeing, of changing perspective, of reading reality”, according to Chiostro del Bramante. Infinity comprises around 50 works and

Letizia Battaglia at Baths of Caracalla. Boris Giuliano, capo della Squadra Mobile, sul luogo di un omicidio a Piazza del Carmine. Palermo, 1978.

Kazu Hiro, Andy Warhol, 2013 at Palazzo Bonaparte.

four large site-specific installations, dating from 1966 to 2023, including his celebrated Venere degli Stracci (Venus of the rags) and his mirror paintings. Chiostro del Bramante, Arco della Pace 5, www. chiostrodelbramante.it.

LA ROMA DELLA REPUBBLICA 13 JAN-24 SEPT

The Capitoline Museums presents an exhibition of Roman artefacts from the fifth century BC to the middle of the first century BC. Through a series of archaeological themes and contexts, the exhibition in Palazzo Caffarelli brings to life the characters and transformations of Roman society over the course of five centuries, from the birth of the republic to the creation of

CLASSICAL

ACCADEMIA NAZIONALE DI S. CECILIA

6 SEPT Cem Mansur conducts the Turkish

the empire. The roughly 1,800 artefacts on display - made from terracotta, ceramics, bronze and stone - mostly come from

municipal collections and many of them are usually hidden away in storage. Piazzale Caffarelli, www. museocapitolini.org.

National Youth Philharmonic Orchestra with pianist Anna Fedorova performing music by Ege Gür, Rachmaninoff, Mendelssohn and Sibelius. The concert will be held

in the Sala S. Cecilia at the Auditorium Parco della Musica Ennio Morricone at 20.30. For full details including tickets see S. Cecilia website, www.santacecilia.it.

La Roma della Repubblica exhibition at Palazzo Caffarelli.

Turkish National Youth Philharmonic Orchestra comes to Rome.

FestivalS

ROMAEUROPA

6-19 NOV

Rome’s annual multidisciplinary arts festival returns with the 38th edition of its programme of contemporary dance, theatre, art, music, technology and events for kids. This year there will be 90 different shows taking place in 13 venues across the city, involving more than 500 artists from around the world. Romaeuropa artistic director Fabrizio Grifasi said this year’s festival is “a snapshot of the geography of the arts, an invitation to discover the plurality of perspectives offered by the sensibilities of the artists and by their narration of that “floating world” which is the present.” The programme of live events opens with Ukiyo-e, the first choreography by Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui for the Ballet du Grand Théâtre de Genève, in the Cavea of

OPERA

TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA

SERATA COREOGRAFI CONTEMPORANEI

19-24 SEPT

Rome’s opera house presents a new dance production featuring the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma étoiles, primi ballerini, soloists and ballet corps, with music by Ezio Bosso, Vivaldi and Ravel, and choreography by Christopher Wheeldon, Goyo Montero and Krzysztof Pastor. Teatro Costanzi, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

DIE WALKURE

6 OCT

Omer Meir Wellber conducts Die Walküre by Richard Wagner in a Teatro dell’Opera di Roma pro-

the Auditorium Parco della Musica Ennio Morricone on 6-7 September. Some of the many highlights include Jungle Book re-imagined by Akram Khan; Ben Frost live; tributes dedicated to Peter Brook and Franco Battiato; and a grand

finale featuring a musical encounter between Lorenzo Bianchi Hoesch and Ballaké Sissoko. For full festival details (in English), including programme, venues and tickets, see Romaeuropa website, www.romaeuropa.net.

duction with Stanislas De Barbeyrac as Siegmund, Angela Meade as Sieglinde, and Brind-

ley Sherratt as Hunding. Teatro Costanzi, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

Romaeuropa Festival opens with Ukiyo-e.

Poster for Die Walküre at Teatro dell’Opera di Roma.

CELEBRATING 50 YEARS OF AMERICAN EDUCATION IN ITALY

SERATA COREOGRAFI CONTEMPORANEI

EZIO BOSSO, ANTONIO VIVALDI WITHIN THE GOLDEN HOUR CHOREOGRAPHER

CHRISTOPHER WHEELDON

JOHANN SEBASTIAN BACH

CHACONA

CHOREOGRAPHER

MAURICE RAVEL

BOLERO

CHOREOGRAPHER

KRZYSZTOF

Teatro Costanzi

19-24 September

TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA ÉTOILES, PRINCIPAL DANCERS, SOLOISTS AND CORPS DE BALLET

TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA NEW PRODUCTION MUSIC ON RECORDED BASIS

Illustration by Marinella Senatore, Courtesy of the artist and Mazzoleni, LondonTorino

ROME TO KEEP CIRCUS MAXIMUS AS CONCERT VENUE

Rome is to continue staging concerts at the Circus Maximus after authorities reached an agreement following the controversy over the recent show by American rapper Travis Scott.

The city's mayor Roberto Gualtieri and Italy's culture minister Gennaro Sangiuliano agreed to retain the site as a concert venue on condition that organisers face more stringent controls and sanctions.

The agreement followed a row over the use of the landmark site for concerts after a rowdy show by Travis Scott on 7 August triggered earthquake fears in Rome as 60,000 concertgoers jumped up and down. This prompted Alfonsina Russo, the director of the Colosseum archaeological park which includes the Palatine hill parallel to the Circus Maximus, to call for a ban on "mega rock concerts" at the ancient chariotracing site which she claimed was being put at risk. Rome's tourism councillor Alessandro Onorato hit back at what he termed a "surreal controversy" and said the rent charged for the Circus Maximus as a concert venue last year brought in more than €2 million which is being used to maintain the city's archaeological sites. The city and the culture ministry have decided that from now on each proposed concert will be evaluated jointly on a case-by-case basis.

The Circus Maximus hosted several high-profile acts this summer, from Guns N' Roses to Imagine Dragons, with the next appointment a show by Italian singersongwriter Max Pezzali on 2 September.

WILL ROME LIMIT ACCESS TO THE TREVI FOUNTAIN?

Rome's tourism councillor has requested help from the Italian government to stop tourists jumping into the waters of the city's Trevi Fountain.

Alessandro Onorato said "the time has come" for restricted access to the Baroque landmark to prevent

unruly tourists from disrespecting the iconic fountain. Onorato was reacting to a video circulating on social media of a man diving off the 18th-century monument to applause and laughter from the crowd. Many of those present filmed the stunt on their phones and nobody intervened to restrain the man, reports La Repubblica newspaper, which noted that the individual later received "just a fine" from traffic police. "The indecent spectacle at the Trevi Fountain the other night, with yet another tourist making a mockery of the historical and cultural heritage of our city and our rules, is no longer tolerable", Onorato stated. Describing the scene as "pure barbarity", the councillor added that the "complicit applause" from the crowd was also "very worrying".

"The fines from police and the numerous appeals for common sense are no longer enough" - Onorato said"Tourists cannot do whatever they want with impunity, respect is required and we really must preserve the most precious places in the world.” Calling for "concrete help" from the ministries of culture and the interior, Onorato concluded: "This is not the tourism we deserve or need". Footage of the incident, posted online by Welcome to Favelas, attracted a sea of negative comments from Romans, including one who suggested putting Piranhas in the fountain instead of coins. The incident is just the latest in a spate of similar events at the Trevi Fountain, including a woman who kicked a police officer to the ground after being dragged out the water last month. As Rome's tourism sector booms once again after the covid pandemic, with it come the negative headlines about visitors disrespecting the city's precious heritage. Earlier this summer several tourists were caught defacing the Colosseum, including one who smiled at the camera as he carved "Ivan + Hayley" into a wall of the amphitheatre.

After police tracked him down and informed him that he risked up to five years in jail and a fine of €15,000, the tourist begged for forgiveness and claimed he was unaware the Colosseum was an ancient site.

Andy Devane

A concert by Travis Scott at the Circus Maximus sparked controversy in Rome.

Rome has seen a surge in tourists behaving badly at the Trevi Fountain.

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city There are also concerts in many of the churches and sometimes in the museums.

Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com

Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct

Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct

Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct

Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it

Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct

Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com

Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it

MUSIC THE A TRE CINEMA VENUES

TRE MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

classical cinema

RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it

Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com

Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com

RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it

Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are at Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others are at the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Roma Tre, Via Ostienze 234, www.r30.org

Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com

cinema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for weekly updates.

Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for weekly updates.

Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361

Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767

There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome.

Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are at Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others are at the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Roma Tre, Via Ostienze 234, www.r30.org

All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org

There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome.

All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 068553485

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 068553485

Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com

Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825

Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com

Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230

Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825

Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361

Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230

St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it

Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7

S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona

St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it

S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com

Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361

Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068

Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116

Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068

Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361

Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116

Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111

Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361

Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111

Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, ww

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it

dance opera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it

dance opera

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

rock pop

rock pop

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com

Live Alcazar, Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com

Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org

Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it

Atlantico, Viale dell’Oceano Atlantico 271d, tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com

Atlantico, Viale dell’Oceano Atlantico 271d, tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www auditorium.com

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it

Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it

Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it

Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it

Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it

Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it

Live Alcazar, Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com

PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it

Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it

PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it

Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com

Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com

Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com

Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com

Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, www.teatrosangenesio.it

Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 www.teatrosangenesio.it

Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it

Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel. 065898031, www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it

Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

By Kate Zagorski

DEEP-FRIED SAGE LEAVES

Salvia Fritta is the perfect accompaniment to a glass of prosecco at aperitivo hour. Fresh sage is abundantly available in Italy and is easy to grow in pots at home, even on the smallest of balconies or windowsills.

The distinct taste and aroma of the silvery, velvet-leaved herb adds an earthy, musky hint to many Italian recipes such as saltimbocca alla romana (veal escalopes topped with prosciutto and sage) and fresh ravioli prepared with burro e salvia (tossed in sage-infused butter).

However, sage is rarely the star of the show, rather it is used as a component with which to build avour together with other herbs or to complement pasta or meat.

Yet anyone who tastes these deep-fried battered leaves will con rm that sage deserves its chance to take centre stage.

Less common than the other fried snacks found in Italy, it is nevertheless the perfect bite to accompany a glass of prosecco at aperitivo hour; a kind of herby, Italian tempura.

The recipe is simple, a basic batter of our combined with cold beer or sparkling water, a pinch of salt and a pan of hot vegetable oil.

Use the biggest sage leaves that you can nd, dip in the batter to coat, then fry until golden and crisp. Be sure to devour them immediately while crunchy and aromatic.

Ingredients

Salvia Fritta (makes 15-20)

80g 00 our 120ml cold beer or sparkling water

Pinch of salt

500ml vegetable oil, for frying Approx 15-20 large fresh sage leaves

Put the our in a bowl with a generous pinch of salt. Gradually add the fridge-cold beer or sparkling water, whisking as you go, until you achieve a thick, smooth batter.

Heat a saucepan of vegetable oil until it reaches about 170°C (you can test if the oil is ready by dropping in a little of the batter, it should bubble and start to fry immediately).

Coat the sage leaves one at a time and carefully drop into the hot oil. You will need to fry them in batches so do not overcrowd the pan.

Cook each leaf for about 3-4 minutes until the exterior is pale gold. Remove and place on kitchen paper to remove the excess oil before eating while hot.

Coromandel, Via di Monte Giordano 60/61, tel. 0668802461.

Dolce, Via Tripolitania 4, tel. 0686215696.

Ketumbar, Via Galvani 24, tel. 0657305338.

‘Na Cosetta, Via Ettore Giovenale 54, tel. 0645598326.

Ciclostazione Frattini, Via Pietro Frattini 136/138, tel. 065503707.

Atlas Coelestis, Via Malcesine 41, tel. 0635072243.

Porto Fluviale, Via del Porto Fluviale 22, tel. 065743199.

Rosti al Pigneto, Via Bartolomeo D’Alviano 65, tel. 062752608.

Doppiozero, Via Ostiense 68, tel. 0657301961.

Misto, Via Fezzan 21, tel. 0645471971.

Il Bistrot delle Officine Farneto, Via dei Monti della Farnesina 77, tel. 0690286945.

Mavi, Lungotevere di Pietra Papa 201, tel. 065584801.

Indirizzi

Where to brunch in Rome

Our picks of the best restaurants and cafes serving brunch on weekends – from Eggs Benedict to American-style pancakes.

COROMANDEL

Located near Piazza Navona, this cafe recreates the feel of a cosy 1950s home. If you fancy English-style eggs or pancakes for breakfast, then this is your place. On the menu you’ll find: simple eggs, omelette with roast potatoes and sausage, and either pancakes with bacon and maple syrup, scrambled eggs, maple syrup and icing sugar, or sweet pancakes with chocolate and hazelnut sauce, banana and flaked almonds. There are also smoothies, yogurt and fruit. Sat-Sun from 11.00-15.00.

DOLCE

For a New York-style Sunday brunch, head to Dolce, the restaurant and bakery in the Africano district. The kitchen is transformed into a bakery with a menu brimming with international cuisine. From eggs to pancakes, or even to sandwiches, sweet and savoury are placed side by side. You can choose between an omelette with three fillings of your choice, or an Eggs Benedict on toasted bread baked in-house. Sun 12.00-15.00.

KETUMBAR

Ketumbar’s organic brunch, served at weekends, is the talk of Testaccio. There’s a buffet ranging from antipasti to cakes and pastries, that changes seasonally. There are also many different soups, cous cous, dark taragna polente, fritters, hummus, cod au gratin, granary focaccia, salads and vegan dishes. The menu is accompanied by organic wine and artisan beers. At Ketumbar, brunch is also baby-friendly. There’s a kid’s menu and a space dedicated to young children, cared for by qualified minders. Sat-Sun 12.30-16.00.

‘NA COSETTA

In this Italian bistro in Pigneto, you can enjoy brunch, otherwise known in Italian as the ‘colanzo’. Dishes are both sweet and savoury and stick to a true Italian style with a few of the chef’s special touches. Pastries and cakes are made by pastry chef Stefania Guerrizio. Sun 12.30-16.00.

CICLOSTAZIONE FRATTINI

If you’re on the hunt for a place in the Portuense district where you can sit outside and let your kids run about, Ciclostazione Frattini should be your go-to brunch spot. A restaurant, pizzeria and grill, here the whole family can have fun in the indoor Baby Garden and Baby Park. The menu includes more than 30 options, ranging from fresh artisan pasta to homemade cakes and desserts. There are main courses such as meat and fish dishes, soups, cooked vegetables, salads, and cheeses. Sat-Sun 12.30-15.30.

IL BISTROT DELLE OFFICINE FARNETO

Every Sunday you can tuck into a tasty brunch at the bistro in Officine Farneto, on Via Monti della Farnesina. The dishes range from homemade fresh pasta to meat and fish courses, cooked vegetables and desserts. We recommend the freshly-prepared burgers. Sun from 12.30.

PORTO FLUVIALE

This crowded Ostiense restaurant offers a buffet brunch menu containing around 60 dishes: hot and cold pasta dishes, soups, raw salads and cooked vegetable dishes, meats, and cheeses served with a variety of tasty dips and sauces. Don’t forget to try the delicious pastries and cakes. Sat-Sun 12.30-16.00.

ROSTI AL PIGNETO

If you feel like spending the weekend outside in a huge garden suitable for children, Rosti is the place for you. For starters you can tuck into the gnocchi with tomato and basil sauce, cannelloni with ricotta and tomato, ravioli with burrata, tomato and basil, or vegetarian crepes. For main course there’s seasoned meat balls, veal steak with mushrooms, roast pork with honey, turkey nuggets with yoghurt and mustard, anchovies marinated in tarragon and chilli, or cod balls with tomato, as well as salads and desserts. Sat-Sun 12.30-16.00.

DOPPIOZERO

Here you can enjoy a tasty brunch that benefits from its onsite bakery. The buffet at the weekend includes pasta, pizza (many different types), olive bread, cous cous, salmon, meat, buffalo mozarella and baked goods such as muffins and brownies. Sat-Sun 12.30-15.30.

MISTO

Located in the Africano district, Misto serves club sandwiches, pancakes, muffins, salads, and seasonal fruits made into juices and smoothies. You can choose one dish from a choice of three: the club sandwich, fillet of salmon or veggie sandwich and then add either pancakes or a salad, then choose between a savoury muffin or Scottish scone, and select a fruit juice. Kids can enjoy either a savoury muffin or Scottish scone, pancakes, fruit salad or orange or blueberry juice. We also recommend trying one of the alcoholic fruit cocktails or a pomegranate spritz. Sun 11.30-15.30.

ATLAS COELESTIS

Here you can choose between ten different dishes, from antipasti to dessert, which change weekly. There are also roselline di pizza (baked pizza in the shape of roses) to taste, as the restaurant has reopened its pizza oven and in the evening it serves pizzas made with wholewheat flour. On the kid’s menu you’ll find three different options for the main meal and ice cream for dessert. Sun 12.30.

MAVI

At Mavi you can enjoy a brunch that’s a little different –part buffet, part à la carte. On the buffet you’ll find eggs, savoury pancakes and many different salad recipes, while from the menu you can order dishes such as burgers, bagels, cakes and sweet pancakes. The buffet includes coffee, water and fruit juice. Sun 13.00-16.00.

www.puntarellarossa.it

Associations

American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org

American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org

Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com

Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com

Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli

Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net

Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com

Daughters of the American Revolution

Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

Books

The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

Almost Corner Bookshop

Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942

Anglo American Bookshop

Via delle Vite 27, tel. 066795222

Bibliothèque Centre Culturel

Saint-Louis de France (French)

Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it

La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French)

Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com

Libreria Feltrinelli International

Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Religious

All Saints’ Anglican Church

Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881

Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30

Anglican Centre

Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com

Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org

Bible Baptist Church

Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00

Christian Science Services

Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425

Church of All Nations

Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464

Church of Sweden

Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

International Women’s Club of Rome

tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it

Irish Club of Rome

irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org

Luncheon Club of Rome

tel. 3338466820

Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums

tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org

Professional Woman’s Association

www.pwarome.org

United Nations Women’s Guild

tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com

Welcome Neighbor

tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international)

Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484

Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish)

Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it

Open Door Bookshop

(second hand books English, French, German, Italian)

Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com

Otherwise

Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com

Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it

International Central Gospel Church

Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695

International Christian Fellowship

Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00

Jewish Community

Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061

Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas

Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761

Lutheran Church

Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German)

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church

Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic)

Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00

Roma Baptist Church

Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service

10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese)

Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara

Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091

Rome International Church

Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org

Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico)

Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258

St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church

Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00

St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic)

Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups

Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com

Archè

(HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it

Associazione Centro Astalli

(Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306

Associazione Ryder Italia

(Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it

Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it

Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily

Caritas foreigners’ support centre

Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554

Caritas hostel

Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235

Caritas legal assistance

Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369

Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport

• Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it

• Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it

• Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it

• Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994

• Traffic info tel. 1518

• Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic)

Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00

St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org

Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30

St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal)

Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish)

St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic)

Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30

Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00

Comunità di S. Egidio

Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234

Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen

Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027

Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre

St Paul’s within-the-Walls

Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339

Mason Perkins Deafness Fund

(Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it

Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772

Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza)

Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri”

Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351

Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104

The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma

24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers

• Ambulance tel. 118

• Carabinieri tel. 112

• Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336

• Fire brigade tel. 115

• Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999

• Police tel. 113

• Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355