Watch Journal Issue 195 by Watch Journal

Volume 19, N 5

All Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Good in Time

The Travel Issue

Watch Journal Featuring: The Patek Philippe World Time Chronograph Ref. 5930

May 2016

0 9 2 81 0

$10 USD

03303

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Also: Sixty Years of the Blancpain Ladybird. The Art of Guilloche. Family-Owned Watch Companies. Greubel Forsey's Perpetual Calendar. Philanthropy: The Laureus Sport for Good Foundation.

THE RL AUTOMOTIVE SKELETON TIMEPIECE

FOR A COMPLETE LIST OF STORES: R A L PHL AUR EN WATCHE S .COM

WA T C H J O U R N A L

Contents DEPARTMENTS 08 Masthead

CONTENTS

10 Editor’s Letter 12 Founding Publisher’s Letter 14 Intelligence 22 Happenings 30 Profiles Patrick Dempsey, Michel Parmigiani, Felix Baumgartner 38 Play The Dabney, Washington DC 39 Stay Fasano, Rio de Janeiro 40 Getaway

42 Necessities

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Resplendent Ceylon Tea Trails, Sri Lanka

O V E R S EAS Bearing the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva, this timepiece is the ideal companion for an extraordinary voyage that reveals a unique perspective on the world. It is the only watch of its kind.

CRAFTING ETERNITY SINCE 1755

OV E RSE AS CH RO N O G R A P H

Geneva official watchmaking certification

WA T C H J O U R N A L

Contents FEATURES 58 A World First

CONTENTS

Patek Philippeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s many patents and inventions offer a glimpse into the history of haute horlogerie. 68 Style Orange is the New Black 78 Philanthropy Sport for Good: the Laureus Foundation 84 Perpetually Yours Exploring a Greubel Forsey Masterpiece 92 House Party The Value Proposition of Hybrid Movements 102 Manufacture Guillochage at Breguet 106 Legacy Blancpain Marks a Milestone.

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112 Guide Watch Terminology, Top Retailers, Horological Humor

There is no mystery about a Girard-Perregaux, simply more than two centuries of craftsmanship and a perpetual commitment to perfection. 1966 FULL CALENDAR, STEEL CASE, 40 MM

Calibre GP 3300 Full calendar

WA T C H J O U R N A L

Watch Journal

MASTHEAD

Chief Executive Officer Marc Lotenberg SALES AND MARKETING

EDITORIAL

Publisher John Clarkin

Editor-in-Chief Hyla Bauer

Advertising Directors Adriana Gelves Laurel Nuzzo

Design Director Elizabeth Ferraro Contributing Copy Editor Jessica Goldschmidt

Account Executive, Real Estate Simon Swig

Editorial Coordinator Kay Hodgdon

OPERATIONS

Editor at Large Spencer Bailey

Controller Miles Bingham

Associate Travel Editor Nate Storey

Business Development Manager Laurie Sadove

Associate Fashion Editor Courtney Kenefick

Studio Manager James Vincent

Contributing Writers Carol Besler Andrew Hildreth Syl Tang

WATCH JOURNAL LLC Board of Directors Eric Crown Marc Lotenberg Adam Sandow

Assistant Editor Logan Baker Designer Simonetta Nieto

Founding Publisher Glen B. Bowen

Creative Consultants NoĂŤ & Associates

ADVERTISING & EDITORIAL OFFICE

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Watch Journal LLC 601 W. 26th Street, Suite 1507 New York, NY 10001 info@watchjournal.com

INTERNS Evan Berk, Amanda Choy, Alexandra Gay, Maranda Janky, David Lozada, Samantha Meade, Andrea Noguera, Shyam Patel, Daniel Preston, Victoria Wasylak ONLINE

#watchjournal www.watchjournal.com Twitter: @watchjournal Instagram: @watchjournal Facebook: facebook.com/watchjournalmagazine SUBSCRIPTIONS To subscribe, visit us online at: watchjournal.com/subscribe One-Year Print and Digital: US: $60 / International: $110 Single issue shipped: US: $15 / International: $30 Digital Only: iPad: $14.99, Digital back issues: $6.99 ISSN N 2325-4130 Watch Journal publishes nine issues a year. Watch Journal is a registered trademark of Watch Journal LLC. Copyright 2016, Watch Journal. All rights reserved. Reproduction or transmission in whole or in part in any form or by any means without written permission is prohibited. Opinions expressed in Watch Journal are not necessarily those of the publisher. Watch Journal, its affiliates, employees, contributors, writers, editors and publisher accept no responsibility for inaccuracies, errors or omissions in the information and/or advertisement contained herein. The publisher assumes no responsibility for the claims made by advertisers or the merits of products or services advertised or promoted in Watch Journal. The publisher makes no representations or warranties of any kind, expressed or implied, as to the information, services, contents, trademarks, patents, materials or products included in this magazine. Advertisers and their agencies assume all liability for advertising content. All images reproduced in Watch Journal have been accepted by the publisher on the condition that such images are reproduced with the knowledge and prior consent of the photographer and/or other creator and the subject. As such, the publisher is not responsible for any infringement of the copyright or otherwise arising from any publication in Watch Journal. Printed in the USA. To subscribe, visit us online at watchjournal.com/subscribe. Email: subscriptions@watchjournal.com.

RACING IN STYLE. WORLD SPONSOR AND OFFICIAL TIMEKEEPER SINCE 1988.

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WA T C H J O U R N A L

Editor’s Letter

EDITOR’S LET TER

Prepare for Takeoff It’s the season for travel. Warmer temperatures (for those of us living above the equator) call for a more relaxed attitude, and cue our desires to get away. Wanderlust affects us all. And as Ralph Waldo Emerson once said, “Life is a journey, not a destination.” Let’s go! In this issue, we celebrate travel. Mechanical timekeeping has played an important role in navigation for centuries. Britain first instituted the Longitude Act in 1714, spurring a race to create a (relatively) accurate clock that could be employed by sailors to help direct their course on ocean-crossing voyages. John Harrison’s marine chronometer was the first to achieve the required accuracy over extended periods of time while withstanding the extreme temperatures and humidity of seafaring travel, and over the years horologists have honed their skills to have their watches keep up with the times, wherever they are in the world. A modern masterpiece of travel time is Greubel Forsey’s Quantième Perpétuel à Équation. Andrew Hildreth explains the virtues of this mechanical triumph in his story “A Watch for All Time,” page 84. And for the more fashion-conscious among us vacationers, this issue’s Style pages focus on the color orange, which has made its way into fine watchmaking (page 68). This month’s Philanthropy story highlights the worldwide work of the Laureus Foundation, whose first patron was Nelson Mandela. The Laureus Sports for Good project has financed more than 150 initiatives in 35 countries, all focused on tackling social challenges to young people in developing areas: crime, discrimination, lack of education, and unemployment. See “Good Sports,” page 78. As with many things in life, a good trip must come to an end. My time at Watch Journal has been a delightful journey. It was a great pleasure to edit this magazine, and to work with a team of talented people both in our home office and around the world. Please join me in welcoming Jonathan Bues as the new Editor-in-Chief of Watch Journal, beginning with the September issue. Jonathan’s writing debuts in this issue’s cover story “A World First,” page 58. He explores the latest timepieces from Patek Philippe, with a focus on the new Worldtimer 5930—an apropos choice for this issue’s theme. Happy Summer!

VO L U M E 19, N

—Hyla Bauer Editor-in-Chief

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Big Bang Unico Sapphire. Case made of sapphire, paying tribute to Hublot's extensive expertise. The absolute transparency reveals the manufactured UNICO movement. Column-wheel chronograph, 72-hour power reserve. Limited edition of 500 pieces.

WA T C H J O U R N A L

Founding Publisher’s Letter

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FOUNDING PUBLISHER’S LET TER

Uncertain Times—Definitely Swiss exports are down, retail sales are down, optimism is down, meanwhile inventories are deep and wide on retailer shelves and at factories. Market forces and regional legislation have intersected to create a watchmaker’s worst nightmare. Jeremy Oster of Denver’s Oster Jewelers likens this convergence to the Perfect Storm. As a result, half of the watch executives I surveyed are pessimistic about the future. While unit sales have been trending down for several years, the Swiss watch market was propped up by price increases that have more than doubled since the year 2000. Few other consumer products have realized cost increases of more than 50% over the last 15 years and the only major item up more than 100% since 2000 is the cost of healthcare. Can today’s watch market be overpriced? The strongest headwinds driving down the demand for Swiss watches began with the unleashing of the Swiss Franc, followed by a weakened demand from Mainland China due largely to Beijing’s anti-corruption and anti-kickback legislation, and in Hong Kong partly because of the Umbrella Revolution, which continues to interrupt its overall economy and tourist trade to this day. In addition, political sanctions against Russia combined with depressed oil prices have decimated the Russian economy and is rattling the Middle East. While the U.S. continues to show promise as a growth market, it is in a presidential election year. This is causing a great deal of uncertainty and uncertainty is one of the greatest enemies of luxury brands. Jon Omer, longtime watch executive and current U.S. Fabergé president, says “Retailers are suffering from an abundance of product on their shelves with little chance to sell it at a reasonable profit.” These inventories and those in many Swiss factories are being dumped to make room for new product introductions, which has become the single most powerful force driving watch sales. What strategies are watch executives implementing to counter the downward spiral in demand? They are cutting costs wherever possible, renegotiating supplier contracts, some have increased unit prices while some are decreasing prices, they are instituting salary cuts and laying off employees, and unfortunately, some have no strategy at all to deal with the current crisis. What is the prognosis of the luxury watch market? Omer says, “Companies need to focus on the story of watches as an art form, and they need to control the availability of these products. If we continue to look at watches as commodities then there is little chance to perpetuate the luxury concept.” In contrast, Oster believes the future is incredibly exciting, “New manufacturing technology is allowing for exciting products, the likes of which we have never previously seen or imagined. The marketing channels today are immediate so the communication to the end user is constant and engaging. An educated and stimulated consumer is more likely to be a purchasing consumer. It is up to the big manufacturers now to protect their market and the interests of the consumers and retailers to ensure continued desirability.” Meanwhile, a new storm is gathering strength led by Apple. Healthy investments in new R&D combined with revolutionary marketing decisions embracing smart watches will determine the ultimate future of the Swiss watch industry for years to come. I hope they get it right. —Glen B. Bowen Founding Publisher

G R A V I T Y V 4 5 T G R AV I T Y C S 5 N . N R

212.463.8898 www.franckmuller.com

WA T C H J O U R N A L

INTELLIGENCE

FOR A GOOD CAUSE In a move dedicated to strengthening its charitable efforts, Frédérique Constant recently welcomed Oscar-winning actress Gwyneth Paltrow as its charity brand ambassador. The brand has donated $50 from every women’s watch sale to charity since 2004, focusing on children, women, and heart health. Paltrow joins the company’s philanthropic efforts with a focus on the DonorsChoose organization, which supports American public schools and classrooms in need. The charity, founded in 2000, has provided books, art supplies, technology, and more for communities in need, as well as funding field trips. “I feel that education is power and that so many of our issues will be addressed if we have an education system in place that bolsters critical thought and passion in our next generations,” said Paltrow in a recent statement. Frédérique Constant debuted the new ladies Classics Delight Automatic collection this year at the Baselworld show. The watches are fitted with the FC-306 automatic movement and boast a 42-hour power reserve. frederiqueconstant.com, donorschoose.org

WA T C H J O U R N A L

INTELLIGENCE

OPPOSITE: Heart Beat and Classics Delight watches ABOVE: Gwyneth Paltrow

INTELLIGENCE

WA T C H J O U R N A L

THE NEED FOR SPEED In 1963, Carroll Shelby drove to the championship of the 12 Hours of Sebring race in one of his most celebrated Cobra racing cars, the 289 Roadster. In celebration of this momentous achievement and its continued partnership with Shelby Cobra, Baume & Mercier has introduced two limited edition timepieces, each in an edition of 1963 individually-numbered watches. The asymetrical chronograph counters echo the design of the carâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dashboard, while the seconds hand bears the Cobra logo. baume-et-mercier.com

CLOCKWISE: Shelby in action; Shelby Cobra II watch; Louis Moinet Black Gold Derrick Tourbillon

DERRICK GOES DARK Inspired by the world of oil drilling, the Louis Moinet Derrick series is a fascinating functional work of art. A fully working representation of an oil derrick is featured on the dial, and the drive shaft at the right of the timepiece powers a long articulated arm or walking beam, with a moving oblongshaped head at the left end. The new Black Gold Derrick Tourbillon will be produced in a limited edition of 28 pieces. The moniker Black Gold is often used to evoke oil, and the watch plays on this theme with black PVD bridges in its openworked movement, caliber LM14D. The manually wound movement features 72 hours of power reserve and displays hours, minutes, and seconds along with the oil derrick automaton. louismoinet.com

FIRST CLASS DOUBLE ROTOR SKELETON 20 YEARS

Manufacture caliber. Double Rotor Technology. Rose gold 42.50 mm case. Rose gold Double Rotor with “Côtes de Genève décor”. Brown alligator strap. Limited edition to 77 pieces. Ref. A3050/1

MIAMI FL/EAST COAST JEWELRY · ST MARTEEN DWI/BALLERINA · CHARLOTTE NC/DIAMOND DIRECT · BEVERLY HILLS/DAVID ORGELL · SAN FRANCISCO CA/SHAPUR MENLO PARK CA/CECI WONG JEWELERS · NEW YORK NY/KENJO · ARUBA DWI/LITTLE EUROPE, TIME SQUARE · ENGLEWOOD NJ/TIMEPIECE COLLECTION · CHICAGO IL/NEW YORK JEWELERS DENVER CO/RIGHT TIME · HOUSTON TX/STYLE JEWELERS · COSTA MESA CA/WATCH CONNECTION · TORONTO/MYLES MINDHAM · VANCOUVER/TIME & GOLD · LOS ANGELES/FELDMAR JAMAICA WI/HOUSE OF DIAMONDS · BOCA RATON, FL/ECJ LUXE · COLTS NECK, NJ/J VINCENT · GAMBRILLS, MD/LITTLE TREASURE ·

ST THOMAS, USVI/TRIDENT

INTELLIGENCE

WA T C H J O U R N A L

DOING GOOD DOWN UNDER Oris recently introduced the Great Barrier Reef Limited Edition II benefiting the Australian Marine Conservation Society. The timepiece will be produced in an individually-numbered limited edition of 2000 pieces, and is available on either a stainless steel bracelet or rubber strap fitted with a deployant buckle. With its design based on the Oris Aquis diving watch, the watch displays the date on an inner chapter ring, and the date at 6 o’clock. The watch’s deep blue dial evokes the rich seas of the Great Barrier Reef, while the yellow accents are a nod to the region’s yellow coral. Water-resistant to 500 meters, the watch’s unidirectional rotating bezel is inlaid with black ceramic and its Calibre 735 movement boasts a power reserve of 38 hours. The caseback features an embossed map of Australia, and the unique number of each timepiece. oris.ch

ABOVE AND RIGHT: Oris Great Barrier Reef Limited Edition II

WA T C H J O U R N A L

INTELLIGENCE

MAJOR MOVEMENT Antonio Calce, CEO of Girard-Perregaux SA, and Patrik P. Hoffmann, CEO of Ulysse Nardin SA recently announced the appointment of Alain Riguidel as president of Keringâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Luxury Watch division in North America. A veteran of luxury conglomerate Richemont, Riguidel has held management positions in the Middle East, South America, and Europe. He served most recently as the regional brand director for Piaget Latin America and the Caribbean. â&#x20AC;&#x153;When asked about the watches that he prefers to wear, Riguidel stated, "Both brands make exceptional timepieces, so it is not easy to choose. Currently, my personal favorites are the Girard-Perregaux 1966 Full Calendar in stainless steel and the Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Manufacture." ulyssenardin.com, girard-perregaux.com

ABOVE:

Alain Riguidel

LEFT: Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Manufacture, GirardPerregaux 1966 Full Calendar

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CLEAR AS A BELL

INTELLIGENCE

Officine Paneraiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s newest offering also has the designation of being their most complicated. The Radiomir 1940 Minute Repeater Carillon Tourbillon GMT introduces a brand new complication and boasts an impressive double hour and minute repeater mechanism within the heart of its hand-wound skeleton calibre. The repeater function can be set for two separate time zones at once, meaning no matter where you are, home is but a chime away. panerai.com

RIGHT AND BELOW: Panerai Radiomir 1940 Minute Repeater Carillon Tourbillon GMT

WA T C H J O U R N A L

INTELLIGENCE

CAPED CRUSADER It seems that Bruce Wayne has excellent taste in watches. In the recently-released “Batman v Superman: Dawn of Justice,” actor Ben Affleck wears a Breguet. While no Breguet is ordinary (nor are any superheoes), the Tradition Reference 7047 tourbillon is a standout timepiece. The hand-wound calibre 569 tourbillon boasts 542 components and a power reserve of 50 hours in a 41mm case. That’s super power, indeed. breguet.com

ABOVE: Ben Affleck RIGHT: Breguet Tradition Reference 7047 tourbillon

HAPPENINGS

WATCH JOURNAL

FASHIONS OF THE TIMES Party-goers took the theme of “Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology” to great heights at the annual Metropolitan Museum of Art Gala. Actress Freida Pinto led the watch-wearing set with Audemars Piguet’s Diamond Punk. A unique piece, the watch is adorned with 7,848 snow-set diamonds crafted into pyramids with black onyx elements. The show-stopper also has a secret: The diamond-set watch dial is revealed under a sliding cover. Actor Luke Evans expressed his style chops with a skeletonized Octo Finissimo watch by Bulgari. Not to be outdone, Michael B. Jordan sported the ultra-modern Piaget Altiplano featuring the thinnest handwound movement in the world and an offset dial allowing a view of the watch’s mechanics. Actress Jessica Chastain also dazzled in Piaget with a diamond-encrusted Limelight Gala timepiece. Orlando Bloom made the timely choice of the Bremont AC I in advance of the Bremontsponsored Oracle Team USA’s participation in the America’s Cup sailing race, which returned to New York Harbor after nearly 100 years. audemarspiguet.com, bulgari.com, piaget.com, bremont.com

WATCH JOURNAL OPPOSITE LEFT: Jessica Chastain RIGHT: Piaget Limelight Gala BELOW CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Freida Pinto in Audemars Piguet, Luke Evans, Michael B. Jordan in Piaget, Bulgari Octo Finissimo

HAPPENINGS

WATCH JOURNAL

WORLD TOUR Vacheron Constantin celebrated the worldwide launch of its new Overseas collection with an event held on New Yorkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s High Line. Guests enjoyed a beautiful spring sunset and view of the Hudson River while viewing the new timepieces, including the debut of the Overseas World Time watches. Grammy award-winning band A Great Big World entertained the crowd during the event. In keeping with the eveningâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s theme of travel, specially-commissioned photographs by world-renowned photographer Steve McCurry illustrated six locales from around the world: Mexico, New York, China, India, Japan, and the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture in Geneva. The new Overseas collection for men and women features in-house movements and a choice of complications, including dial time, chronograph, and world time. A new interchangeable system allows the owner to change his strap on the fly. vacheron-constantin.com

WATCH JOURNAL

HAPPENINGS

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Vincent Brun, Juan-Carlos Torres, Yann Bouillonnec, Overseas timepieces on display, guests mingle on the Highline

WATCH JOURNAL

HAPPENINGS

ON THE ROAD AGAIN The thirty-fourth edition of the Mille Miglia (Thousand Mile in Italian) saw a field of 450 vintage automobiles embark on a journey from Viale Venezia in Brescia that would take them through some 30 towns and cities including Verona, San Marino, and Rome on the round-trip 1,000 mile race. Only cars produced between the years of 1927 to 1957 were eligible to participate in the race. Chopard is the World Sponsor and Official Timekeeper of the race, which it has been involved with since 1988. Chopardâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele competed in the road race, as he has done for more than a decade, this year in a 1956 Porsche 550A Spyder RS. To commemorate the historic race, Chopard created two limited edition timepieces, one in a series of 1,000 and the other a series of 100, in stainless steel and rose gold respectively. The Mille Miglia 2016 XL Race Edition features a new Chopard Calibre 03.05-C chronograph that is COSC Certified. Good timing, indeed. chopard.com

RIGHT: Chopard Mille Miglia 2016 XL Race Edition BELOW: Karl-Friedrich Scheufele at the start of the race

WATCH JOURNAL

HAPPENINGS

PRO SHOTS Audemars Piguet, a long-standing supporter of golfing around the world, recently hosted a private 40-guest tournament with brand ambassadors Ian Poulter, Henrik Stenson, and Keegan Bradley. Held at the world-renowned Lake Nona Golf & Country Club, the tournament, one of the brand’s annual Golf Trophy matches, saw professionals playing side-by-side with guests in a scramble game format over two days. Amateur player Sean Kramer scored a surprise eagle on hole 9 out of a greenside bunker after an impromptu lesson from Poulter. A dinner prepared by London-based chef Tom Sellers was a highlight after-hours. The youngest chef to receive a Michelin star, Seller’s stellar five-course dinner was held at Poulter’s nearby home. audemarspiguet.com

ABOVE: Players on the course LEFT: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph

HAPPENINGS

WATCH JOURNAL

SLOOPING AROUND The Panerai Classic Yachts Challenge started with a bang at the Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta. The Challenge, which will continue in other locales throughout the season, concluding in Cannes, France at Les Regates Royales. Forty vintage sailing yachts participated in the race on the clear waters of the Caribbean sea. The boats were divided into five main categories for the competition: Vintage, Classic, Traditional, Classic GRP, and Spirit of Tradition. The Janley, a sloop built in 1948 in San Diego, California emerged as the overall winner. The prize? A Panerai Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days Automatic. Bravo! panerai.com

ABOVE: On the open sea LEFT: Panerai Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days Automatic

WATCH JOURNAL

CANNES DO The 69th annual Cannes Film Festival saw an array of fine watches and jewelry making their appearances on the red carpet. Jaeger-LeCoultre hosted the opening of its second “Art Behind the Scenes” photography exhibit, in addition to co-sponsoring the 8th Annual Filmmakers Dinner and Award hosted by Charles Finch. English filmmaker Nick Broomfield was honored at the Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc, Antibes in a star-studded affair, with guests Mick Jagger, Clive Owen, Paul Allen, and Jemima Goldsmith out en force to celebrate the evening. jaeger-lecoultre.com HAPPENINGS

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Gael Garcia Bernal and Diego Luna, Clive Owen and Laurent Viney, Jaeger-LeCoultre Grand Reverso Automatic Night and Day, Mick Jagger and Paul Allen

PA T R I C K D E M P S E Y

PROFILE

WATCH JOURNAL

PATRICK DEMPSEY The actor on his passion for racing. 30

WATCH JOURNAL

PROFILE

OPPOSITE: Patrick Dempsey TOP LEFT TO RIGHT: TAG Heuer Special Edition Indy 500; Patrick Dempsey prepares to race

Home Alabama, Enchanted, and 2011’s Flypaper. Still, somehow he’s found time to build his racing company, Dempsey Racing, into a juggernaut on the international scene since he first drove the Pace Car at the Indy 500 in 2007. An avid collector of vintage and sports cars, Dempsey’s racing bug hit him hard. In 2014, he told Reuters, “It’s all-consuming in many ways. I couldn’t imagine not racing right now. It really keeps me motivated. It’s all I think about on a daily basis.” The heir apparent to actor-racer Steve McQueen (whose film Le Mans chronicled his love affair with the 24 Hours), Dempsey first appeared in the 24 Hours in 2009, where he and his co-driver Patrick Long snagged a ninth-place GT2 finish. He has returned four times in the ensuing years (once driving the Porsche 911 GT3 RSR, an updated edition of McQueen’s vehicle in Le Mans). Last year, Dempsey placed second in class, while also garnering a win in the Fuji round of the 2015 FIA World Endurance Championship. Competitive racing and acting have a lot

in common, it turns out. Both may seem like individual activities, with one star performer (or driver) running the show. But Dempsey, a veteran of both worlds, knows that teamwork is what makes a winner in any field. “While the focus so often is the performance of the car, in reality it is all the various personalities, from team mates to competitors to officials to fans that I remember the most. I have loved being part of different teams and sharing the experience with so many great friends.” So how does he keep it all together? Says Dempsey of his breakneck-pace lifestyle, “It’s a matter of balance: family, career, and my passion [for racing]. I am so grateful to TAG Heuer for helping me realize my dreams.” In recent years, those dreams have included his charitable organization supporting those with cancer. The Patrick Dempsey Center for Cancer Hope & Healing opened its doors in 2008, in Dempsey’s hometown of Lewistown, Maine, and continues its race to a cure with all the determination of its founder. —Hyla Bauer

PA T R I C K D E M P S E Y

The greatest actor-racer of our era, Patrick Dempsey has garnered podium finishes at Circuit of The Americas, Laguna Seca and Petit Le Mans. Now he’s determined to place at the 24 Hours of Le Mans, the most coveted trophy in endurance racing. We caught up with the TAG Heuer ambassador in New York City recently to talk about his unique career. A native of Lewiston, Maine, Dempsey started playing competitive sports when he was just a child. In the north’s snowy climate, he soon grew into an avid competitive skier, and his racing spirit flowed from there. So how did he go from sports to acting? “I loved to race. I was looking to practice my balance and so I took up juggling. And that’s how my acting career began—I started juggling performances,” Dempsey jokes. “But I’ve always been a racer.” The Emmy-winning star of Grey’s Anatomy—a two-time runner-up for People’s Sexiest Man Alive during his tenure as Dr. Derek Shepherd—has also appeared on stage and in the movies, including Sweet

M I C H E L PA R M I G I A N I

PROFILE

WATCH JOURNAL

MICHEL PARMIGIANI

The watchmaker brings traditional craft to the 21st century.

WATCH JOURNAL

PROFILE

OPPOSITE: Michel Parmigiani ABOVE LEFT: The repaired Breguet Pendule Sympathique RIGHT: The Tonda Chronor Anniversaire

“People come to the factory and ask, why do you decorate the back of the dial? Because we have to.” —Michel Parmigiani beauty of both. That is what was spectacular. Movements were engraved and decorated even though nobody ever saw them, they were [completely] hidden. It’s a love of what is inside and out. Which is not always in line with profit and the bottom line … People come to the factory and ask, why do you decorate the back of the dial? Because we have to.” Parmigiani’s restoration claim to fame? A Breguet Pendule Sympathique tabletop clock that Sotheby’s had declared unrepairable. The clock comprised a master table clock with a removable pocket watch on top. The owner could take the pocket watch with him during the day and then place it on the clock, where it would be automatically synchronized with the clock’s time (if necessary) and rewound. “You put

the pocket watch on top of the clock and the watch is wound and reset by the clock,” Parmigiani explains. “Mechanically, the watch gets the rewinding and resetting if needed. The two are in communication sympathetically. It took one year and over 2000 hours to repair, and Sotheby’s came and they couldn’t believe I had done it.” Fast forward to 2016 and Parmigiani is celebrating 20 years at the helm of his eponymous manufacture. He was originally making pieces privately for certain brands and for private clients with high complications. That’s when the president of the Sandoz Family Foundation, Pierre Landolt—already a customer for restoration—approached Parmigiani about starting his own brand. Michel Parmigiani has created no less than 33 proprietary movements since opening his doors, and he shows no signs of slowing down. For this year’s 20th anniversary, Parmigiani has created his first-ever integrated chronograph movement. The Tonda Chronor Anniversaire’s movement, crafted in 18-karat rose gold, features Michel Parmigiani’s signature on the barrel. Bravo.—Hyla Bauer

M I C H E L PA R M I G I A N I

Michel Parmigiani began his watchmaking career in the 1970s—not exactly an ideal time for the Swiss watch industry. The “Quartz Crisis“ was in full swing in 1976 as he completed seven years of watchmaking study in Fleurier, Switzerland. So Parmigiani parlayed his passion for watchmaking into a flourishing business of restoration, focusing on special timepieces including automatons, minute repeaters, and antique pieces. “The understanding of watchmaking heritage allowed me to discover wonderful objects,” says Parmigiani, founder and president of Parmigiani Fleurier. Repairing antique pieces “... is a great experience that gives you the understanding of the savoir faire [of the early years of watchmaking], and it is a lesson of humility to look at what was made then and what is done now, especially when you consider the tools that were available.” Says Parmigiani, “Only if you take the time to dissect and examine these pieces can you understand the technique and learn from them. The technique was beautiful. There was perfect coherence of what is inside and what is outside, the

F E L I X B AU M G A RT N E R

PROFILE

WATCH JOURNAL

FELIX BAUMGARTNER

Breaking the barriers of traditional Swiss watchmaking.

WATCH JOURNAL

PROFILE

OPPOSITE: Felix Baumgartner ABOVE CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Baumgartner in his studio, the UR-105 T-Rex, finishing the T-Rex’ case

“We wanted to create a new way of telling the time, with new mechanisms, new indications, with contemporary aesthetics.” —Felix Baumgartner about the possibility of creating their own timepieces. Frei earned his degree in graphic design from the School of Visual Arts in Zurich, and later a Bachelor of Arts degree from the College of Art and Design in Lucerne, where he studied with famed Swiss artist Roman Signer. “We wanted to create a new way of telling the time, with new mechanisms, new indications, with contemporary aesthetics,” says Baumgartner. The satellite hour system, first introduced in 2003 with the UR-103.1, has become iconic for the brand, “this system is inspired by clocks, old Italian clocks, reinterpreted in a watch. It is a traveling hour,” It’s not

only for fun, it is for practicality, it’s very easy to read,” he says. The brand has produced several variations of the timepiece over the years, including the colorful recently introduced UR-105 TA “Clockwork Orange” and the UR-105 “Black Pink” piece. The UR-105 TA (turbine automatic) watch’s automatic winding system includes a winding rate control lever to maximize efficiency and protect from overwinding. “You can give your watch more freedom; if you are a very active person, you can do your [automatic winding] watch harm by constantly overwinding your watch. I learned this while servicing watches; we often overwind our watches,” says Baumgartner. “But this one, you can adjust to your activity level. This is an additional complication we created for this watch. We do that to create a connection between you and the watch. And this kind of relation creates the love of the watch. Like with a car, the more interactivity you have with a car, the closer you come to your car. I like it when the wearer comes closer to the watch.” —Hyla Bauer

F E L I X B AU M G A RT N E R

Like many watchmakers today, Felix Baumgartner grew up in a family with watchmaking ties. “My father restored clocks,” says the Schaffhausen, Switzerland, native, “and my grandfather worked at IWC as a watchmaker.” Baumgartner’s interest in horology started at a very young age, so it was natural for him to study watchmaking, which he did in Solothurn, Switzerland. However, instead of opting for a traditional route of going to work for a watchmaking manufacture or joining his father’s business after garnering his watchmaking diploma in Solothurn, Baumgartner decided to strike out on his own in Geneva as an independent watchmaker. “For me to see a future, as a young watchmaker, to just keep doing what watchmakers have done for 150 years, made me depressed. So I broke out of that and this is why we created Urwerk.” We wanted to create a new way of telling the time, with new mechanisms, new indications, with contemporary aesthetics.” In 1995, Baumgartner, his brother Thomas, and artist Martin Frei began a discussion

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THE DABNEY A chef’s interpretation of Mid-Atlantic cuisine crops up in Washington DC’s Shaw neighborhood. by Shyam Patel

Chef Jeremiah Langhorne’s homage to the Mid-Atlantic starts with his new restaurant’s setting, revived 19thcentury rowhouses with traditional design elements like exposed brick walls, a wood-burning hearth, and open shelving. His dishes are prepared using methods characteristic of the region’s early cooking—the hearth’s embers provide the heat for ingredients sourced from close-range farms and the rooftop garden. A recent menu included both soft-shell crab dressed with green garlic and radish, and basil-barbequed quail served with grits and pickled green tomatoes. Strawberry and lime are paired with anise hyssop in Langhorne’s take on gazpacho topped with Maryland blue crab. The cocktails are just as imaginative: a favorite vegetable is reinvented in a rhubarb negroni with gin, rainwater Madeira wine, and rhubarb Amaro. Even the non-alcoholic drinks from the “temperance” menu get creative, including a thyme

lemonade, with coffee tonic, virgin pink ‘gin,’ and iced tea. Langhorne’s years as Chef de Cuisine under chef Sean Brock at McCrady’s Restaurant in Charleston, South Carolina reflect his choice of cornbread and grits as side dishes and come through in the rustic sensibility of the restaurant: waiters clad in flannel, the brick floor, and reclaimed wood tables. thedabney.com

ABOVE: The dining room. THE DABNEY 122 Blagden Alley NW Washington, DC 20001

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by Daniel Preston CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: The bar at Fasano al Mare. The rooftop pool. A guest room. FASANO RIO DE JANEIRO Rua Vieira Souto 80 Rio De Janeiro, Brazil

Ready or not, the world is coming to Rio this summer. The coveted place to stay? Undoubtedly Philippe Starck’s modernist Hotel Fasano, a singular beacon of style in the city’s bland hospitality palette. With its hillside location on the tony Avenida Vieira Souto overlooking Ipanema beach, a Bossa Nova-era vibe permeates the interiors, a nod to the musical revolution that swept across Rio during the glamorous 1950s and early 60s before the country fell to dictatorial rule. Consider Starck’s curvy “Ears-that-See” mirrors and the amorphous armchairs by local design legend Sérgio Rodrigues in the 89 rooms a complement to the sexy rhythm of Bossa Nova’s samba and jazz mashup. Brazilian materials—Îpe flooring, the reception desk crafted from a piquiá tree stump—add warmth to the public spaces, while Ocimar Versolato–inspired staff uniforms reinforce the retro feel. The heated white-

marble rooftop pool offers unparalleled views of the sea; the upscale Mediterranean restaurant, Fasano al Mare, draws a moneyed crowd with Scandinavian wood tables and Murano chandeliers; but the star here is the seafood-focused menu by chef Paolo Lavezzini who cut his teeth at the three-Michelin-starred Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence. End the night down the hall in the darkened, wood-paneled Baretto-Londra bar, where on the right night guests will catch a live Bossa Nova band (but more likely, classic rock). fasano.com/br

FA S A N O R I O

FASANO RIO A midcentury masterpiece with Olympic-sized luxury.

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RESPLENDENT CEYLON TEA TRAILS At Sri Lanka’s first Relais & Chateaux resort, an emphasis on a beloved national drink.

RESPLENDENT CEYLON TEA TRAILS

By Logan R. Baker Since its decades-long civil war ended in 2009, Sri Lanka has attracted travelers on the hunt for the next Balistyle escape and hoteliers looking to plant their flags in the Southeast Asian island. The Resplendent Ceylon Tea Trails, an all-bungalow resort dedicated to the country’s famous cash crop, is run by one of the area’s leading tea producers and was one of the first to set off the wave of development when it opened in 2005. Situated in the Bogawantalawa region near the Highlands, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a working plantation forms the beating heart of the hotel; it feeds the spa, which offers tea-based treatments such as jasmine and cinnamon baths, and is used to source ingredients for tea-infused dishes at the restaurant. Guided excursions include visits to the local tea pickers’ villages, working fields, and a century-old tea factory onsite. Pathways that cut across charming Ceylon tea gardens lead to the 26 rooms in five Colonial-era planter bungalows, including the newly unveiled Dunkeld. Inside, the four suites are outfitted with period teak furnishings and freestanding tubs; a shared infinity-edge pool has sweeping views of Castlereagh Lake but guests are in good hands no matter the accommodation. The resort is all-inclusive, allowing patrons to engage in a plethora of activities that showcase the beauty of Sri Lanka’s rolling landscape in full. Take a short day trip to the Buddhist temples in the holy city of Kandy, also a World Heritage Site, then return for a nighttime ‘bed tea,’ an in-room ritual served by a private butler. resplendentceylon.com CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: View from the Norwood bungalow. The pool outside the Castlereagh bungalow. OPPOSITE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Lake and mountain near the resort. Living room inside the Tientsin bungalow. Inside the Norwood Hazel Master Suite. RESPLENDENT CEYLON TEA TRAILS 46/38 Nawam Mawatha Colombo 2, Sri Lanka

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LAMBORGHINI $1,983,258 (855) 971-8988 lamborghini.com

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FERRUCCIO’S FUTURE To celebrate Ferruccio Lamborghini’s 100th birthday, his eponymous brand has produced an automobile of staggering strength and speed dubbed the Centenario. The car boasts 770 horsepower and accelerates from 0 to 62 mph in just 2.8 seconds. HAUTE WHEELS With wide hood scoops and a body and chassis constructed of carbon fiber, the Centenario flaunts its agility and ease of movement. Pure design and functionality come together in the vehicle’s

contoured exterior, and an HD touchscreen inside the car provides satellite navigation, social media applications, and data on g-forces. INNOVATION STATION Air flows through ducts inside the front headlight casings and around wheel arches, guiding wind to the tail of the car while cooling it. Additionally, Lamborghini’s new rear-wheel steering stabilizes the vehicle, ensuring that the Centenario drives as smooth as it looks.

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ETRO $2,740 (212) 247-1200 etro.com

NAME BRAND Italian fashion house Etro delivers an eclectic collection full of multicultural inspiration and unique architectural form that is literally branded with a unique identityâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; Etroâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s name is printed periodically throughout. CULTURAL CONNECTION In a design inspired by the abstract paper cut-outs of Henri Matisse, bold geometric hues of turquoise and fuchsia stand out with the help of thick black lines, giving a modern edge to classic Asian motifs.

VIVACIOUS VERSATILITY Made of 100% silk, this playfully artistic anklelength maxi is the perfect piece for day-to-night. Soft to the touch, its relaxed fit, silk-fabric belt, and crossed shoulder straps make for a go-togem from season to season. After an evening on the town, instead of hanging this dress in a closet, consider framing it for your wall.

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VILEBREQUIN $250 (888) 458-0051 vilebrequin.com

HIT THE BEACH Saint Tropez-based Vilebrequin has been creating luxury swimwear since the 1970s. The brand’s tonguein-cheek colorful patterns in classic silhouettes have made a splash the world over, from the white sand beaches of California to yachts in the Mediterranean. DURABLE DUDS Vilebrequin’s swim trunks are made of a quick-dry fabric similar to that of boat sails, ensuring comfort in and out of the water. The brand’s reinforced double-stitched seams make for a longer wear wherever your travels take you.

PRESERVATION DEDICATION Designed in the classic Moorea cut, these limitededition Worldmap Dots trunks look good while doing good. A portion of the sales are donated to Te Mana o Te Mana, a French Polynesian non-profit organization dedicated to protecting sea turtles, an animal widely known as “The Spirit of Saint Tropez.”

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HERMÈS $1,125 (800) 441-4488 hermes.com

HIGH STYLE Since its founding in 1837—as a bespoke leather harness and bridle supplier to European nobility—Hermès has honed the art of leather crafting for nearly two centuries. The Hermès calfskin wedge sandal, introduced for Summer 2016, is an exemplary combination of the maison’s leatherworking skill and high fashion. COUTURE QUALITY With its hand-stitched details and futuristic design, this shoe is sure to enhance your strolling pleasure, from a walk through Paris to a seaside boîte.

BLANC IS BEST A wedge heel provides extra stability while keeping the allure of a high heel. The cool white color (blanc in French) is perfect for sultry summer days and nights.

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ROLLS-ROYCE $45,854 for six-piece set (703) 834-1700 rolls-roycemotorcars.com

RE-DEFINING PERFECTION When Charles Stewart Rolls met Sir Frederick Henry Royce in 1904, they embarked on a path to automotive perfection. Today, Rolls-Royce has expanded beyond motorized vehicles with its made-to-order Wraith luggage collection, designed to complement the luxury auto manufacturer’s famous Wraith model, both in dimension and elegance. PERFECT HARMONY The six-piece collection consists of three Long Weekender bags, two Grand Tourer valises, and one sleek

Garment Carrier. Mixed-materials – two-tone leather, carbon fiber frame, for durability and effortless maneuvering, and contrasting stitching – all add to the luxurious experience of the Wraith. TAKE ME AWAY Even the handles have been carefully crafted to balance the weight of the bags and self-righting wheels keep them definitively vertical. Timelessly luxurious and contemporary in design, the collection is a harmonious complement to your luxury vehicle.

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TAFFIN BY JAMES DE GIVENCHY Price upon request (212) 421-6222 taffin.com

HOUSEHOLD NAME James Taffin de Givenchy’s uncle is none other than Hubert de Givenchy, the famed Parisian couturier who dressed the likes of Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly; an aptitude for luxury design clearly runs in the family. Givenchy’s one-of-a-kind designs for Taffin are inspired by French jewelry greats Raymond Templier and Suzanne Belperron, as well as a personal connection with his clients. The jewelry breaks traditional rules by combining unconventional materials with spectacular gemstones.

PURPLE REIGN A 5.28-carat purple sapphire sourced in Madagascar serves as the centerpiece for this unique ring. Set in 18-karat rose gold, this rare stone is surrounded by grey ceramic, creating a unique setting in a horizontal orientation. PRIVACY PLEASE Taffin’s airy Madison Avenue atelier welcomes guests to view the jewels by appointment only.

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POMELLATO $46,400 (212) 879-2118 pomellato.com

GOING GREEN Pomellato is known for its daring use of color blended with precious metals to extraordinary effect. A new addition to the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dance-inspired Tango collection, this bracelet is crafted of 18K rose gold set with emeralds, color-change garnets, and demantoid garnet. The jewels are set in a fine layer of burnished sterling silver over the gold, allowing a further play of light.

PHILANTHROPY-MINDED The Milanese jeweler has supported the World Wildlife Fund in Italy for over 20 years. Pomellato created sister brand Dodo, named for the extinct bird, in an effort to highlight the importance of protecting endangered species.

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LYNX $9,499 (888) 289-5969 lynxgrills.com

HIGH STEAKS Fusing tech with taste, California-based Lynx has released a grill firmly planted in the 21st-century and worthy of its SmartGrill moniker. The voiceactivated and Wi-Fi enabled grill takes the maddening guesswork out of grilling by setting temperatures and alerts for flipping and cook time, and includes an automatic shut-off feature. CLASSY COOKOUT The grill can sear a sirloin and char romaine simultaneously without anything but instructions on

your part, either spoken or provided by a recipe on the Lynx app. Temperature sensors gauge heat output on the stainless steel grilling grates for unbeatable barbecue results. ORDER UP The stainless steel exterior is humidity-proof, protecting the deviceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s technological integrity on the hottest of days. A weatherproof box can be found underneath the grill to protect it during summer storms.

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SIRIN LABS $17,400 (866) 895-4742 sirinlabs.com

FROM THE GOLDEN STATE TO THE WHITE CITY Rivaling California’s Silicon Valley for the world’s leading tech hub, Tel Aviv’s Silicon Wadi (valley in Arabic) is the home of startup Sirin Labs. Last month, the Israeli brand launched the Solarin smartphone, creating a new standard for luxury telecommunication. ENCRYPTED EXCELLENCE While it boasts compatibility with 24 bands of LTE connection worldwide, the true ingenuity of the Solarin lies in its security aspects. The phone is able to go off

the grid immediately, encrypting all calls and messages, making it ideal for classified communication. UNPARALLELED PERFECTION The curved glass screen is supported by titanium panels protecting the phone’s skeleton. With a carbon fiber cover, 18-karat yellow-gold-plated sides, and black diamond inlay, Solarin’s luxe exterior complements its high-tech capabilities.

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MISSONI HOME Price upon request (212) 517-9339 missonihome.com

HOT SEAT Missoni’s endless love affair with colorful patterns adds a dynamic kick to the brand’s home decor. The family-owned-and-operated Italian fashion house has created vibrant pieces like the Daniela armchair for its 2016 Home collection. SITTING PRETTY The armchair’s unique silhouette effortlessly pairs Missoni’s signature prints with a curving architectural form. A subdued statement with timeless appeal, the Daniela is the perfect accent to any living space.

LOFTY LOUNGING This exuberant laminated beechwood armchair is available in sunny, rich prints and natural oak, sepia, and white finishes. The rubberized seat and backrest ensure the durability of the luxe perch—a testament to Missoni’s longstanding excellence in product quality.

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NERI & HU FOR NANIMARQUINA From $3,225 (646) 701-7058 nanimarquina.com

SHANGHAI SPIRIT The Jie hand-tufted rug is produced by family-owned Spanish studio Nanimarquina. The name (街 in Chinese) was chosen by Shanghai-based designers Neri & Hu to evoke the spirit of a true metropolis, China’s ancient city of the same name.

TEXTILE TILES Varying pile heights and finishes add to the visual interest of the rug’s design, while the rug’s mixed light and dark tile-like shapes give the illusion of an urban boulevard beneath your feet, inspired by the tiled streets of Jie. Of course, this pathway is a bit softer. CIVIC UNION Produced in India and Pakistan and composed of 100% Chokla wool, the rug is available in both blue (pictured) and celadon—a classic jade hue used in Chinese ceramics.

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KILLSPENCER $350 (213) 484-0888 killspencer.com

KICK OFF Since the first organized American football game in 1869—in which players wore no helmets and played by rules that more closely resembled modern-day soccer—football equipment has certainly evolved. But the heart and soul of the game remains the leather ball. KILLSPENCER’s handcrafted football serves as a homage to this bygone era. CALIFORNIA CRAFTSMANSHIP The California-made football sets a new standard for athletic gear with its clear focus on quality pro-

duction. From the gold foil emblem to its fine black leather and Italian suede, it will be difficult to decide whether to toss the pigskin around or display it. CALL THE PLAY With three available colorways and a monogram option, every football enthusiast is bound to covet this custom football that will pass the test of time.

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11RAVENS $18,000 (310) 741-1681 11ravens.com

YOUR SERVE The game tables produced by Los Angeles-based 11Ravens are always made to order, from the exact dimensions to the color scheme. This ultimate level of customization allows for the ideal curation of your personal ping-pong parlor. KILL SHOT The Avettore table presents itself as equal parts stylish and professional with angular legs and sharp color combinations. Available in lime or orange with maple and black accents, the table comes with a

removable net and is crafted from your selection of moisture-controlled walnut, teak, or maple wood. DETAILED DESIGN Bernard Semerdjian, creative director for 11Ravens, leads a team of artisans who craft, sand, and polish each individual piece by hand, culminating in a designcentric table that enhances the decor of any living room or office.

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SANDRIN $1,500 (724) 602-4431 cabotgun.com

IT TAKES TWO A new partnership between Pennsylvania-based Cabot Guns and Italian tungsten carbide maker Turmond s.p.a. has spawned a series of limited-edition knives branded “Sandrin.” The blades are crafted of tungsten carbide—the hardness of which allows for superior cutting precision—and marks a first for the American company. TOUGHER THAN NAILS Tungsten is Swedish for “heavy stone,” and for good reason; its combination with carbon yields a material

that scores close to nine on the Mohs scale, with a melting point of 5,200 degrees Fahrenheit. MEET YOUR MATCH The Sandrin Intium knife boasts a handle crafted of stabilized colored wood. Each piece in the limited series of 30 numbered knives will be unique due to the variations in the wood’s natural grain.

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WA T C H J O U R N A L OPPOSITE: The Patek Philippe 5930G World Time Chronograph

A World First

The patents held by Patek Philippe offer a glimpse into the history of haute horlogerie. 58

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Patek Philippe’s list of watchmaking firsts is so long that it’s easy to overlook some of them. After all, once you’ve crafted many of the world’s most famously complicated timepieces, inventing the winding crown, various calendar mechanisms, and the split-second chronograph— not to mention the wristwatch itself—the reflexive impulse to tout every last patent and achievement tends to wane. Among Patek’s less-celebrated milestones is a 1950 invention attributed to an independent watchmaker contracted to Patek Philippe—Louis Cottier—a name well known to watch geeks and collectors of complicated timepieces designed for travelers. Cottier freelanced for various big names in Swiss watchmaking, but his most notable achievements came through his partnership with Patek Philippe. In the late 19th century, as international travel and communication became possible for more of the world’s population, nations came together and set forth a new standard of 24 world time zones. Prior to the adoption of universal time, the very idea that one could know the precise hour in a place a thousand miles away was revolutionary—until then time was a distinctly local thing. It was Cottier who invented the modern world time watch, in which a pair of crowns control a dynamic timekeeping mechanism to aid travelers in need of the time in multiple destinations. Known for its balanced design and the evocative representation of international place-names corresponding to all 24 time zones, a World Time watch from Patek Philippe makes a statement about its wearer’s presumably international lifestyle.

LEFT: The Guilloche-decorated dial of the new 5930G

RIGHT: The CH 28-520HU automatic movement

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The world time and chronograph modules of the new CH 28-520HU movement

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COMPLICATION COMBINATION The resonant design has since been copied by myriad watchmakers, yet it remains closely associated with Patek through its deep connection to Cottier. It has also proven to be a popular bridge complication between entry-level watches and the high complications that impassion “whale” collectors. The World Time is, importantly, a complication that consumers tend to use, its combination of complexity and approachable price have made it a favorite among younger watch fans. Several years ago Patek Philippe president Thierry Stern, the fourth generation of his family to lead the brand, told me that the World Time was a strategic complication for winning the next generation of collectors. On a technical level, combining the world time mechanism with the chronograph—which Patek Philippe did this year—presented an array of engineering challenges. In a bid to maintain a relatively svelte profile, Patek eschewed a running seconds hand. On trying the watch on this year at Baselworld I appreciated this minor design detail. The dial already conveys a lot of information and verges on being busy; subtracting a superfluous function that can be quickly replicated by activating the chronograph makes perfect sense. The chronograph seconds mechanism, meanwhile, has been engineered to sustain the continuous running to which some owners will doubtlessly subject it. The chronograph is also of the flyback variety, meaning it’s a mechanism with roots in the world of pilot’s watches and aviation. How very apropos that it should be married with the World Time, perhaps the ultimate watch for travelers.

The 5230G World Time

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The 5230R World Time

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The movement at the heart of the World Time Chronograph is the all-new CH 28-520 HU. While this caliber is indeed new, its architecture is strongly influenced by two alreadyextant mechanisms; the first is the chronograph module of the 5960 Annual Calendar Chronograph, and the second is of course a Patek Philippe World Time module. As is so often the case in complicated watchmaking, stacking the two mechanisms resulted in a tall movement. Even still, the 5930 is the thinnest world time chronograph currently on the market. Appealing design elements and attention to detail abound in the World Time 5930. The dial is decorated with a swirled guilloche pattern in blue, complemented by the white, silver and blue chapter rings for the seconds counter and 24-hour scale. The coolness of the blue, silver and white accents marries perfectly with a white metal caseâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;in this instance 18-karat goldâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;secured to the wrist by a blue alligator strap. The lugs of the 5930G are of the vintage-style, winglet variety. This less integrated style of lugs also appears on the white gold and red gold updates to the 5230 World Time watch.

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“Designing a slightly larger Perpetual Calendar at 39 mm was a big boost to our Basel collection.” —Larry Pettinelli

NAUTILUS AT 40 Though the major product news was the introduction of the doubly complicated Reference 5930, the biggest surprise news for most visitors to BaselWorld was the conspicuous absence of a single Nautilus reference in the 2016 Patek Philippe BaselWorld collection. To watch collectors, the name Nautilus is synonymous not only with Jules Verne, but with Gérald Genta, whose pivotal watch designs formed the basis of the sport-luxury category in the 1970s, an otherwise inauspicious decade for watch design. Born in America’s bicentennial year, the Nautilus turned 40 at Baselworld, and yet there was no celebration, no fanfare. We’ll have to wait and see if Patek is waiting to release anniversary models in what remains of 2016. There is a recent precedent for such a maneuver. Two years ago, the company back-loaded its 175th anniversary celebrations into the second half of the year so that it could also roll out a standard Baselworld collection.

CALENDAR WATCHES Another Patek anniversary that just so happens to coincide with that of the Nautilus is the 20th anniversary of the Annual Calendar, yet another Patek Philippe invention. This feature is one meant to appeal to younger collectors in search of an intermediate complication. In 1996 Patek Philippe presented a wholly new type of calendar watch that was not so simple as the plain calendar and not as complex as the perpetual calendar. The mechanism, aptly named the annual calendar, was programmed to know, for example, that June has 30 days and July has 31. Unfortunately, the calendar’s intelligence falls short of knowing that February’s length varies due to leap and non-leap years. This complication is a bridge between the highly complicated and expensive and the more accessible and straightforward. Patek Philippe offered a tribute to this invention with two new precious metal versions of the Annual Calendar Ref. 5396. The white gold offering comes with a slate gray dial, and the red gold edition comes with a white dial. Both have Breguet numerals and dauphine hands. If there was a singular focus to this year’s BaselWorld collection, it was complications. One of Patek Philippe’s most popular high-complications, the Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5327, is now available in a slightly larger size, 39 mm. According to Larry Pettinelli, Patek Philippe’s North American President, the firm made a concerted effort to renew its emphasis on the perpetual calendar as a complication. “We have come out with some very strong pieces such as the Pilot watch in recent years, and we have a very strong business with our minute repeaters,” said Pettinelli. “We felt there was an opportunity to re-emphasize our Perpetual Calendars. Designing a slightly larger Perpetual Calendar at 39 mm was a big boost to our Basel collection.”

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The 5936R Annual Calendar

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The 5936G Annual Calendar

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The 5327J and 5327G Perpetual Calendars

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The new Ref. 5327 is all new in terms of its case dimensions and dials. It has a broader and thinner feeling profile than its predecessors, but it’s far from a radical departure for Patek Philippe. It will replace the Perpetual Calendar Reference 5140, which came in a hair smaller, at 37.2 mm in diameter, in the collection. The movement inside is the automatic Caliber 240 Q with a micro-rotor, a staple within Patek’s range of perpetual calendars for almost four decades.

THE FAMILY STERN In an era that has seen increasing consolidation of luxury brands, it’s unusual that Patek Philippe has remained privately held and guided by a single family for four generations. As the most recent member of the Stern family to guide Patek Philippe, Thierry Stern is not merely his company’s senior manager. Nor is he a figurehead. Stern and his wife, Sandrine, continue to lead the company’s design efforts. Stern’s time designing watches for Patek Philippe has seen what is arguably Switzerland’s most conservative watch marque take occasionally unexpected risks. The Aquanaut, just such an example, is a Thierry Stern design. He reimagined what is arguably the platonic ideal of the wristwatch when he updated the Calatrava, adding a hunter caseback that seemed made for engraving and personalization. Last year, Stern presented a white gold pilot’s watch with a mid five-figure price tag. While journalists and bloggers had mixed opinions regarding Patek’s Pilot watch, from a commercial standpoint the watch was an unqualified success. The World Time Chronograph follows in the line of Stern designs that have found inspiration in Patek’s archives but also take watch design in unexpected and modern directions. It will be interesting to see how Stern might approach a Nautilus anniversary timepiece if—as many collectors hope—such a tribute is indeed in the offing.

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Orange is the New Black Photography by Jens Mortensen

This summer, try on a little color. 68

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