Watch Journal Issue 195

Volume 19, N 5

All That’s Good in Time

The Travel Issue

Watch Journal Featuring: The Patek Philippe World Time Chronograph Ref. 5930

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May 2016

0 9 2 81 0

$10 USD

03303

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Also: Sixty Years of the Blancpain Ladybird.

The Art of Guilloche. Family-Owned Watch Companies. Greubel Forsey's Perpetual Calendar.

Philanthropy: The Laureus Sport for Good Foundation.

THE RL AUTOMOTIVE SKELETON TIMEPIECE

FOR A COMPLETE LIST OF STORES: R A L PHL AUR EN WATCHE S .COM

WA T C H J O U R N A L

Contents DEPARTMENTS 08 Masthead

CONTENTS

10 Editor’s Letter 12 Founding Publisher’s Letter 14 Intelligence 22 Happenings 30 Profiles Patrick Dempsey, Michel Parmigiani, Felix Baumgartner 38 Play The Dabney, Washington DC 39 Stay Fasano, Rio de Janeiro 40 Getaway

42 Necessities

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Resplendent Ceylon Tea Trails, Sri Lanka

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O V E R S EAS Bearing the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva, this timepiece is the ideal companion for an extraordinary voyage that reveals a unique perspective on the world. It is the only watch of its kind.

CRAFTING ETERNITY SINCE 1755

OV E RSE AS CH RO N O G R A P H

Geneva official watchmaking certification

WA T C H J O U R N A L

Contents FEATURES 58 A World First

CONTENTS

Patek Philippe’s many patents and inventions offer a glimpse into the history of haute horlogerie.

68 Style Orange is the New Black 78 Philanthropy Sport for Good: the Laureus Foundation 84 Perpetually Yours Exploring a Greubel Forsey Masterpiece 92 House Party The Value Proposition of Hybrid Movements 102 Manufacture Guillochage at Breguet 106 Legacy Blancpain Marks a Milestone.

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112 Guide Watch Terminology, Top Retailers, Horological Humor

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There is no mystery about a Girard-Perregaux, simply more than two centuries of craftsmanship and a perpetual commitment to perfection.

1966 FULL CALENDAR, STEEL CASE, 40 MM

Calibre GP 3300 Full calendar

WA T C H J O U R N A L

Watch Journal

MASTHEAD

Chief Executive Officer Marc Lotenberg SALES AND MARKETING

EDITORIAL

Publisher John Clarkin

Editor-in-Chief Hyla Bauer

Advertising Directors Adriana Gelves Laurel Nuzzo

Design Director Elizabeth Ferraro Contributing Copy Editor Jessica Goldschmidt

Account Executive, Real Estate Simon Swig

Editorial Coordinator Kay Hodgdon

OPERATIONS

Editor at Large Spencer Bailey

Controller Miles Bingham

Associate Travel Editor Nate Storey

Business Development Manager Laurie Sadove

Associate Fashion Editor Courtney Kenefick

Studio Manager James Vincent

Contributing Writers Carol Besler Andrew Hildreth Syl Tang

WATCH JOURNAL LLC Board of Directors Eric Crown Marc Lotenberg Adam Sandow

Assistant Editor Logan Baker Designer Simonetta Nieto

Founding Publisher Glen B. Bowen

Creative Consultants NoĂŤ & Associates

ADVERTISING & EDITORIAL OFFICE

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Watch Journal LLC 601 W. 26th Street, Suite 1507 New York, NY 10001 info@watchjournal.com

INTERNS Evan Berk, Amanda Choy, Alexandra Gay, Maranda Janky, David Lozada, Samantha Meade, Andrea Noguera, Shyam Patel, Daniel Preston, Victoria Wasylak ONLINE

#watchjournal www.watchjournal.com Twitter: @watchjournal Instagram: @watchjournal Facebook: facebook.com/watchjournalmagazine SUBSCRIPTIONS To subscribe, visit us online at: watchjournal.com/subscribe One-Year Print and Digital: US: $60 / International: $110 Single issue shipped: US: $15 / International: $30 Digital Only: iPad: $14.99, Digital back issues: $6.99 ISSN N 2325-4130 Watch Journal publishes nine issues a year. Watch Journal is a registered trademark of Watch Journal LLC. Copyright 2016, Watch Journal. All rights reserved. Reproduction or transmission in whole or in part in any form or by any means without written permission is prohibited. Opinions expressed in Watch Journal are not necessarily those of the publisher. Watch Journal, its affiliates, employees, contributors, writers, editors and publisher accept no responsibility for inaccuracies, errors or omissions in the information and/or advertisement contained herein. The publisher assumes no responsibility for the claims made by advertisers or the merits of products or services advertised or promoted in Watch Journal. The publisher makes no representations or warranties of any kind, expressed or implied, as to the information, services, contents, trademarks, patents, materials or products included in this magazine. Advertisers and their agencies assume all liability for advertising content. All images reproduced in Watch Journal have been accepted by the publisher on the condition that such images are reproduced with the knowledge and prior consent of the photographer and/or other creator and the subject. As such, the publisher is not responsible for any infringement of the copyright or otherwise arising from any publication in Watch Journal.

Printed in the USA. To subscribe, visit us online at watchjournal.com/subscribe. Email: subscriptions@watchjournal.com.

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WA T C H J O U R N A L

Editor’s Letter

EDITOR’S LET TER

Prepare for Takeoff It’s the season for travel. Warmer temperatures (for those of us living above the equator) call for a more relaxed attitude, and cue our desires to get away.

Wanderlust affects us all. And as Ralph Waldo Emerson once said, “Life is a journey, not a destination.” Let’s go!

In this issue, we celebrate travel. Mechanical timekeeping has played an important role in navigation for centuries. Britain first instituted the Longitude Act in 1714, spurring a race to create a (relatively) accurate clock that could be employed by sailors to help direct their course on ocean-crossing voyages. John Harrison’s marine chronometer was the first to achieve the required accuracy over extended periods of time while withstanding the extreme temperatures and humidity of seafaring travel, and over the years horologists have honed their skills to have their watches keep up with the times, wherever they are in the world.

A modern masterpiece of travel time is Greubel Forsey’s Quantième Perpétuel à Équation. Andrew Hildreth explains the virtues of this mechanical triumph in his story “A Watch for All Time,” page 84. And for the more fashion-conscious among us vacationers, this issue’s Style pages focus on the color orange, which has made its way into fine watchmaking (page 68).

This month’s Philanthropy story highlights the worldwide work of the Laureus Foundation, whose first patron was Nelson Mandela. The Laureus Sports for Good project has financed more than 150 initiatives in 35 countries, all focused on tackling social challenges to young people in developing areas: crime, discrimination, lack of education, and unemployment. See “Good Sports,” page 78.

As with many things in life, a good trip must come to an end. My time at Watch Journal has been a delightful journey. It was a great pleasure to edit this magazine, and to work with a team of talented people both in our home office and around the world. Please join me in welcoming Jonathan Bues as the new Editor-in-Chief of Watch Journal, beginning with the September issue.

Jonathan’s writing debuts in this issue’s cover story “A World First,” page 58.

He explores the latest timepieces from Patek Philippe, with a focus on the new Worldtimer 5930—an apropos choice for this issue’s theme.

Happy Summer!

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—Hyla Bauer Editor-in-Chief

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Limited edition of 500 pieces.

WA T C H J O U R N A L

Founding Publisher’s Letter

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FOUNDING PUBLISHER’S LET TER

Uncertain Times—Definitely Swiss exports are down, retail sales are down, optimism is down, meanwhile inventories are deep and wide on retailer shelves and at factories. Market forces and regional legislation have intersected to create a watchmaker’s worst nightmare. Jeremy Oster of Denver’s Oster Jewelers likens this convergence to the Perfect Storm.

As a result, half of the watch executives I surveyed are pessimistic about the future. While unit sales have been trending down for several years, the Swiss watch market was propped up by price increases that have more than doubled since the year 2000. Few other consumer products have realized cost increases of more than 50% over the last 15 years and the only major item up more than 100% since 2000 is the cost of healthcare. Can today’s watch market be overpriced?

The strongest headwinds driving down the demand for Swiss watches began with the unleashing of the Swiss Franc, followed by a weakened demand from Mainland China due largely to Beijing’s anti-corruption and anti-kickback legislation, and in Hong Kong partly because of the Umbrella Revolution, which continues to interrupt its overall economy and tourist trade to this day.

In addition, political sanctions against Russia combined with depressed oil prices have decimated the Russian economy and is rattling the Middle East.

While the U.S. continues to show promise as a growth market, it is in a presidential election year. This is causing a great deal of uncertainty and uncertainty is one of the greatest enemies of luxury brands.

Jon Omer, longtime watch executive and current U.S. Fabergé president, says “Retailers are suffering from an abundance of product on their shelves with little chance to sell it at a reasonable profit.” These inventories and those in many Swiss factories are being dumped to make room for new product introductions, which has become the single most powerful force driving watch sales.

What strategies are watch executives implementing to counter the downward spiral in demand? They are cutting costs wherever possible, renegotiating supplier contracts, some have increased unit prices while some are decreasing prices, they are instituting salary cuts and laying off employees, and unfortunately, some have no strategy at all to deal with the current crisis.

What is the prognosis of the luxury watch market? Omer says, “Companies need to focus on the story of watches as an art form, and they need to control the availability of these products. If we continue to look at watches as commodities then there is little chance to perpetuate the luxury concept.”

In contrast, Oster believes the future is incredibly exciting, “New manufacturing technology is allowing for exciting products, the likes of which we have never previously seen or imagined. The marketing channels today are immediate so the communication to the end user is constant and engaging. An educated and stimulated consumer is more likely to be a purchasing consumer.

It is up to the big manufacturers now to protect their market and the interests of the consumers and retailers to ensure continued desirability.”

Meanwhile, a new storm is gathering strength led by Apple. Healthy investments in new R&D combined with revolutionary marketing decisions embracing smart watches will determine the ultimate future of the Swiss watch industry for years to come. I hope they get it right.

—Glen B. Bowen Founding Publisher

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G R A V I T Y V 4 5 T G R AV I T Y C S 5 N . N R

212.463.8898 www.franckmuller.com

WA T C H J O U R N A L

INTELLIGENCE

FOR A GOOD CAUSE In a move dedicated to strengthening its charitable efforts, Frédérique Constant recently welcomed Oscar-winning actress Gwyneth Paltrow as its charity brand ambassador. The brand has donated $50 from every women’s watch sale to charity since 2004, focusing on children, women, and heart health. Paltrow joins the company’s philanthropic efforts with a focus on the DonorsChoose organization, which supports American public schools and classrooms in need. The charity, founded in 2000, has provided books, art supplies, technology, and more for communities in need, as well as funding field trips. “I feel that education is power and that so many of our issues will be addressed if we have an education system in place that bolsters critical thought and passion in our next generations,” said Paltrow in a recent statement.

Frédérique Constant debuted the new ladies Classics Delight Automatic collection this year at the Baselworld show. The watches are fitted with the FC-306 automatic movement and boast a 42-hour power reserve. frederiqueconstant.com, donorschoose.org

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WA T C H J O U R N A L

INTELLIGENCE

OPPOSITE: Heart Beat and Classics Delight watches ABOVE: Gwyneth Paltrow

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INTELLIGENCE

WA T C H J O U R N A L

THE NEED FOR SPEED In 1963, Carroll Shelby drove to the championship of the 12 Hours of Sebring race in one of his most celebrated Cobra racing cars, the 289 Roadster. In celebration of this momentous achievement and its continued partnership with Shelby Cobra, Baume & Mercier has introduced two limited edition timepieces, each in an edition of 1963 individually-numbered watches. The asymetrical chronograph counters echo the design of the car’s dashboard, while the seconds hand bears the Cobra logo. baume-et-mercier.com

CLOCKWISE: Shelby in action; Shelby Cobra II watch; Louis Moinet Black Gold Derrick Tourbillon

DERRICK GOES DARK Inspired by the world of oil drilling, the Louis Moinet Derrick series is a fascinating functional work of art. A fully working representation of an oil derrick is featured on the dial, and the drive shaft at the right of the timepiece powers a long articulated arm or walking beam, with a moving oblongshaped head at the left end. The new Black Gold Derrick Tourbillon will be produced in a limited edition of 28 pieces. The moniker Black Gold is often used to evoke oil, and the watch plays on this theme with black PVD bridges in its openworked movement, caliber LM14D. The manually wound movement features 72 hours of power reserve and displays hours, minutes, and seconds along with the oil derrick automaton. louismoinet.com

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FIRST CLASS DOUBLE ROTOR SKELETON 20 YEARS

Manufacture caliber. Double Rotor Technology.

Rose gold 42.50 mm case.

Rose gold Double Rotor with “Côtes de Genève décor”.

Brown alligator strap.

Limited edition to 77 pieces.

Ref. A3050/1

MIAMI FL/EAST COAST JEWELRY · ST MARTEEN DWI/BALLERINA · CHARLOTTE NC/DIAMOND DIRECT · BEVERLY HILLS/DAVID ORGELL · SAN FRANCISCO CA/SHAPUR MENLO PARK CA/CECI WONG JEWELERS · NEW YORK NY/KENJO · ARUBA DWI/LITTLE EUROPE, TIME SQUARE · ENGLEWOOD NJ/TIMEPIECE COLLECTION · CHICAGO IL/NEW YORK JEWELERS DENVER CO/RIGHT TIME · HOUSTON TX/STYLE JEWELERS · COSTA MESA CA/WATCH CONNECTION · TORONTO/MYLES MINDHAM · VANCOUVER/TIME & GOLD · LOS ANGELES/FELDMAR JAMAICA WI/HOUSE OF DIAMONDS · BOCA RATON, FL/ECJ LUXE · COLTS NECK, NJ/J VINCENT · GAMBRILLS, MD/LITTLE TREASURE ·

ST THOMAS, USVI/TRIDENT

INTELLIGENCE

WA T C H J O U R N A L

DOING GOOD DOWN UNDER Oris recently introduced the Great Barrier Reef Limited Edition II benefiting the Australian Marine Conservation Society.

The timepiece will be produced in an individually-numbered limited edition of 2000 pieces, and is available on either a stainless steel bracelet or rubber strap fitted with a deployant buckle. With its design based on the Oris Aquis diving watch, the watch displays the date on an inner chapter ring, and the date at 6 o’clock. The watch’s deep blue dial evokes the rich seas of the Great Barrier Reef, while the yellow accents are a nod to the region’s yellow coral. Water-resistant to 500 meters, the watch’s unidirectional rotating bezel is inlaid with black ceramic and its Calibre 735 movement boasts a power reserve of 38 hours. The caseback features an embossed map of Australia, and the unique number of each timepiece. oris.ch

ABOVE AND RIGHT: Oris Great Barrier Reef Limited Edition II

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WA T C H J O U R N A L

INTELLIGENCE

MAJOR MOVEMENT Antonio Calce, CEO of Girard-Perregaux SA, and Patrik P. Hoffmann, CEO of Ulysse Nardin SA recently announced the appointment of Alain Riguidel as president of Kering’s Luxury Watch division in North America. A veteran of luxury conglomerate Richemont, Riguidel has held management positions in the Middle East, South America, and Europe. He served most recently as the regional brand director for Piaget Latin America and the Caribbean. “When asked about the watches that he prefers to wear, Riguidel stated, "Both brands make exceptional timepieces, so it is not easy to choose. Currently, my personal favorites are the Girard-Perregaux 1966 Full Calendar in stainless steel and the Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Manufacture." ulyssenardin.com, girard-perregaux.com

ABOVE:

Alain Riguidel

LEFT: Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Manufacture, GirardPerregaux 1966 Full Calendar

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WA T C H J O U R N A L

CLEAR AS A BELL

INTELLIGENCE

Officine Panerai’s newest offering also has the designation of being their most complicated. The Radiomir 1940 Minute Repeater Carillon Tourbillon GMT introduces a brand new complication and boasts an impressive double hour and minute repeater mechanism within the heart of its hand-wound skeleton calibre. The repeater function can be set for two separate time zones at once, meaning no matter where you are, home is but a chime away. panerai.com

RIGHT AND BELOW: Panerai Radiomir 1940 Minute Repeater Carillon Tourbillon GMT

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WA T C H J O U R N A L

INTELLIGENCE

CAPED CRUSADER It seems that Bruce Wayne has excellent taste in watches. In the recently-released “Batman v Superman: Dawn of Justice,” actor Ben Affleck wears a Breguet. While no Breguet is ordinary (nor are any superheoes), the Tradition Reference 7047 tourbillon is a standout timepiece. The hand-wound calibre 569 tourbillon boasts 542 components and a power reserve of 50 hours in a 41mm case.

That’s super power, indeed. breguet.com

ABOVE: Ben Affleck RIGHT: Breguet Tradition Reference 7047 tourbillon

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HAPPENINGS

WATCH JOURNAL

FASHIONS OF THE TIMES Party-goers took the theme of “Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology” to great heights at the annual Metropolitan Museum of Art Gala. Actress Freida Pinto led the watch-wearing set with Audemars Piguet’s Diamond Punk. A unique piece, the watch is adorned with 7,848 snow-set diamonds crafted into pyramids with black onyx elements. The show-stopper also has a secret: The diamond-set watch dial is revealed under a sliding cover.

Actor Luke Evans expressed his style chops with a skeletonized Octo Finissimo watch by Bulgari. Not to be outdone, Michael B. Jordan sported the ultra-modern Piaget Altiplano featuring the thinnest handwound movement in the world and an offset dial allowing a view of the watch’s mechanics. Actress Jessica Chastain also dazzled in Piaget with a diamond-encrusted Limelight Gala timepiece. Orlando Bloom made the timely choice of the Bremont AC I in advance of the Bremontsponsored Oracle Team USA’s participation in the America’s Cup sailing race, which returned to New York Harbor after nearly 100 years. audemarspiguet.com, bulgari.com, piaget.com, bremont.com

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WATCH JOURNAL OPPOSITE LEFT: Jessica Chastain RIGHT: Piaget Limelight Gala BELOW CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Freida Pinto in Audemars Piguet, Luke Evans, Michael B. Jordan in Piaget, Bulgari Octo Finissimo

HAPPENINGS

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HAPPENINGS

WATCH JOURNAL

WORLD TOUR Vacheron Constantin celebrated the worldwide launch of its new Overseas collection with an event held on New York’s High Line. Guests enjoyed a beautiful spring sunset and view of the Hudson River while viewing the new timepieces, including the debut of the Overseas World Time watches. Grammy award-winning band A Great Big World entertained the crowd during the event. In keeping with the evening’s theme of travel, specially-commissioned photographs by world-renowned photographer Steve McCurry illustrated six locales from around the world: Mexico, New York, China, India, Japan, and the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture in Geneva.

The new Overseas collection for men and women features in-house movements and a choice of complications, including dial time, chronograph, and world time. A new interchangeable system allows the owner to change his strap on the fly. vacheron-constantin.com

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WATCH JOURNAL

HAPPENINGS

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Vincent Brun, Juan-Carlos Torres, Yann Bouillonnec, Overseas timepieces on display, guests mingle on the Highline

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WATCH JOURNAL

HAPPENINGS

ON THE ROAD AGAIN The thirty-fourth edition of the Mille Miglia (Thousand Mile in Italian) saw a field of 450 vintage automobiles embark on a journey from Viale Venezia in Brescia that would take them through some 30 towns and cities including Verona, San Marino, and Rome on the round-trip 1,000 mile race.

Only cars produced between the years of 1927 to 1957 were eligible to participate in the race.

Chopard is the World Sponsor and Official Timekeeper of the race, which it has been involved with since 1988.

Chopard’s co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele competed in the road race, as he has done for more than a decade, this year in a 1956 Porsche 550A Spyder RS. To commemorate the historic race, Chopard created two limited edition timepieces, one in a series of 1,000 and the other a series of 100, in stainless steel and rose gold respectively. The Mille Miglia 2016 XL Race Edition features a new Chopard Calibre 03.05-C chronograph that is COSC Certified. Good timing, indeed. chopard.com

RIGHT: Chopard Mille Miglia 2016 XL Race Edition BELOW: Karl-Friedrich Scheufele at the start of the race

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WATCH JOURNAL

HAPPENINGS

PRO SHOTS Audemars Piguet, a long-standing supporter of golfing around the world, recently hosted a private 40-guest tournament with brand ambassadors Ian Poulter, Henrik Stenson, and Keegan Bradley. Held at the world-renowned Lake Nona Golf & Country Club, the tournament, one of the brand’s annual Golf Trophy matches, saw professionals playing side-by-side with guests in a scramble game format over two days. Amateur player Sean Kramer scored a surprise eagle on hole 9 out of a greenside bunker after an impromptu lesson from Poulter.

A dinner prepared by London-based chef Tom Sellers was a highlight after-hours. The youngest chef to receive a Michelin star, Seller’s stellar five-course dinner was held at Poulter’s nearby home. audemarspiguet.com

ABOVE: Players on the course LEFT: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph

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HAPPENINGS

WATCH JOURNAL

SLOOPING AROUND The Panerai Classic Yachts Challenge started with a bang at the Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta. The Challenge, which will continue in other locales throughout the season, concluding in Cannes, France at Les Regates Royales.

Forty vintage sailing yachts participated in the race on the clear waters of the Caribbean sea. The boats were divided into five main categories for the competition: Vintage, Classic, Traditional, Classic GRP, and Spirit of Tradition.

The Janley, a sloop built in 1948 in San Diego, California emerged as the overall winner. The prize? A Panerai Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days Automatic. Bravo! panerai.com

ABOVE: On the open sea LEFT: Panerai Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days Automatic

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WATCH JOURNAL

CANNES DO The 69th annual Cannes Film Festival saw an array of fine watches and jewelry making their appearances on the red carpet. Jaeger-LeCoultre hosted the opening of its second “Art Behind the Scenes” photography exhibit, in addition to co-sponsoring the 8th Annual Filmmakers Dinner and Award hosted by Charles Finch. English filmmaker Nick Broomfield was honored at the Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc, Antibes in a star-studded affair, with guests Mick Jagger, Clive Owen, Paul Allen, and Jemima Goldsmith out en force to celebrate the evening. jaeger-lecoultre.com HAPPENINGS

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Gael Garcia Bernal and Diego Luna, Clive Owen and Laurent Viney, Jaeger-LeCoultre Grand Reverso Automatic Night and Day, Mick Jagger and Paul Allen

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PA T R I C K D E M P S E Y

PROFILE

WATCH JOURNAL

PATRICK DEMPSEY The actor on his passion for racing.

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WATCH JOURNAL

PROFILE

OPPOSITE: Patrick Dempsey TOP LEFT TO RIGHT: TAG Heuer Special Edition Indy 500; Patrick Dempsey prepares to race

Home Alabama, Enchanted, and 2011’s Flypaper. Still, somehow he’s found time to build his racing company, Dempsey Racing, into a juggernaut on the international scene since he first drove the Pace Car at the Indy 500 in 2007. An avid collector of vintage and sports cars, Dempsey’s racing bug hit him hard. In 2014, he told Reuters, “It’s all-consuming in many ways. I couldn’t imagine not racing right now. It really keeps me motivated. It’s all I think about on a daily basis.”

The heir apparent to actor-racer Steve McQueen (whose film Le Mans chronicled his love affair with the 24 Hours), Dempsey first appeared in the 24 Hours in 2009, where he and his co-driver Patrick Long snagged a ninth-place GT2 finish. He has returned four times in the ensuing years (once driving the Porsche 911 GT3 RSR, an updated edition of McQueen’s vehicle in Le Mans). Last year, Dempsey placed second in class, while also garnering a win in the Fuji round of the 2015 FIA World Endurance Championship.

Competitive racing and acting have a lot

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in common, it turns out. Both may seem like individual activities, with one star performer (or driver) running the show. But Dempsey, a veteran of both worlds, knows that teamwork is what makes a winner in any field. “While the focus so often is the performance of the car, in reality it is all the various personalities, from team mates to competitors to officials to fans that I remember the most. I have loved being part of different teams and sharing the experience with so many great friends.”

So how does he keep it all together? Says Dempsey of his breakneck-pace lifestyle, “It’s a matter of balance: family, career, and my passion [for racing]. I am so grateful to TAG Heuer for helping me realize my dreams.”

In recent years, those dreams have included his charitable organization supporting those with cancer. The Patrick Dempsey Center for Cancer Hope & Healing opened its doors in 2008, in Dempsey’s hometown of Lewistown, Maine, and continues its race to a cure with all the determination of its founder. —Hyla Bauer

PA T R I C K D E M P S E Y

The greatest actor-racer of our era, Patrick Dempsey has garnered podium finishes at Circuit of The Americas, Laguna Seca and Petit Le Mans. Now he’s determined to place at the 24 Hours of Le Mans, the most coveted trophy in endurance racing. We caught up with the TAG Heuer ambassador in New York City recently to talk about his unique career.

A native of Lewiston, Maine, Dempsey started playing competitive sports when he was just a child. In the north’s snowy climate, he soon grew into an avid competitive skier, and his racing spirit flowed from there. So how did he go from sports to acting?

“I loved to race. I was looking to practice my balance and so I took up juggling.

And that’s how my acting career began—I started juggling performances,” Dempsey jokes. “But I’ve always been a racer.”

The Emmy-winning star of Grey’s Anatomy—a two-time runner-up for People’s Sexiest Man Alive during his tenure as Dr. Derek Shepherd—has also appeared on stage and in the movies, including Sweet

M I C H E L PA R M I G I A N I

PROFILE

WATCH JOURNAL

MICHEL PARMIGIANI

The watchmaker brings traditional craft to the 21st century.

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WATCH JOURNAL

PROFILE

OPPOSITE: Michel Parmigiani ABOVE LEFT: The repaired Breguet Pendule Sympathique RIGHT: The Tonda Chronor Anniversaire

“People come to the factory and ask, why do you decorate the back of the dial? Because we have to.”

—Michel Parmigiani beauty of both. That is what was spectacular. Movements were engraved and decorated even though nobody ever saw them, they were [completely] hidden. It’s a love of what is inside and out. Which is not always in line with profit and the bottom line … People come to the factory and ask, why do you decorate the back of the dial? Because we have to.”

Parmigiani’s restoration claim to fame?

A Breguet Pendule Sympathique tabletop clock that Sotheby’s had declared unrepairable. The clock comprised a master table clock with a removable pocket watch on top. The owner could take the pocket watch with him during the day and then place it on the clock, where it would be automatically synchronized with the clock’s time (if necessary) and rewound. “You put

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the pocket watch on top of the clock and the watch is wound and reset by the clock,” Parmigiani explains. “Mechanically, the watch gets the rewinding and resetting if needed. The two are in communication sympathetically. It took one year and over 2000 hours to repair, and Sotheby’s came and they couldn’t believe I had done it.”

Fast forward to 2016 and Parmigiani is celebrating 20 years at the helm of his eponymous manufacture. He was originally making pieces privately for certain brands and for private clients with high complications. That’s when the president of the Sandoz Family Foundation, Pierre Landolt—already a customer for restoration—approached Parmigiani about starting his own brand.

Michel Parmigiani has created no less than 33 proprietary movements since opening his doors, and he shows no signs of slowing down. For this year’s 20th anniversary, Parmigiani has created his first-ever integrated chronograph movement. The Tonda Chronor Anniversaire’s movement, crafted in 18-karat rose gold, features Michel Parmigiani’s signature on the barrel. Bravo.—Hyla Bauer

M I C H E L PA R M I G I A N I

Michel Parmigiani began his watchmaking career in the 1970s—not exactly an ideal time for the Swiss watch industry.

The “Quartz Crisis“ was in full swing in 1976 as he completed seven years of watchmaking study in Fleurier, Switzerland. So Parmigiani parlayed his passion for watchmaking into a flourishing business of restoration, focusing on special timepieces including automatons, minute repeaters, and antique pieces. “The understanding of watchmaking heritage allowed me to discover wonderful objects,” says Parmigiani, founder and president of Parmigiani Fleurier. Repairing antique pieces “... is a great experience that gives you the understanding of the savoir faire [of the early years of watchmaking], and it is a lesson of humility to look at what was made then and what is done now, especially when you consider the tools that were available.”

Says Parmigiani, “Only if you take the time to dissect and examine these pieces can you understand the technique and learn from them. The technique was beautiful. There was perfect coherence of what is inside and what is outside, the

F E L I X B AU M G A RT N E R

PROFILE

WATCH JOURNAL

FELIX BAUMGARTNER

Breaking the barriers of traditional Swiss watchmaking.

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WATCH JOURNAL

PROFILE

OPPOSITE: Felix Baumgartner ABOVE CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Baumgartner in his studio, the UR-105 T-Rex, finishing the T-Rex’ case

“We wanted to create a new way of telling the time, with new mechanisms, new indications, with contemporary aesthetics.”

—Felix Baumgartner about the possibility of creating their own timepieces. Frei earned his degree in graphic design from the School of Visual Arts in Zurich, and later a Bachelor of Arts degree from the College of Art and Design in Lucerne, where he studied with famed Swiss artist Roman Signer. “We wanted to create a new way of telling the time, with new mechanisms, new indications, with contemporary aesthetics,” says Baumgartner.

The satellite hour system, first introduced in 2003 with the UR-103.1, has become iconic for the brand, “this system is inspired by clocks, old Italian clocks, reinterpreted in a watch. It is a traveling hour,” It’s not

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only for fun, it is for practicality, it’s very easy to read,” he says. The brand has produced several variations of the timepiece over the years, including the colorful recently introduced UR-105 TA “Clockwork Orange” and the UR-105 “Black Pink” piece.

The UR-105 TA (turbine automatic) watch’s automatic winding system includes a winding rate control lever to maximize efficiency and protect from overwinding. “You can give your watch more freedom; if you are a very active person, you can do your [automatic winding] watch harm by constantly overwinding your watch. I learned this while servicing watches; we often overwind our watches,” says Baumgartner. “But this one, you can adjust to your activity level. This is an additional complication we created for this watch. We do that to create a connection between you and the watch.

And this kind of relation creates the love of the watch. Like with a car, the more interactivity you have with a car, the closer you come to your car. I like it when the wearer comes closer to the watch.” —Hyla Bauer

F E L I X B AU M G A RT N E R

Like many watchmakers today, Felix Baumgartner grew up in a family with watchmaking ties. “My father restored clocks,” says the Schaffhausen, Switzerland, native, “and my grandfather worked at IWC as a watchmaker.” Baumgartner’s interest in horology started at a very young age, so it was natural for him to study watchmaking, which he did in Solothurn, Switzerland.

However, instead of opting for a traditional route of going to work for a watchmaking manufacture or joining his father’s business after garnering his watchmaking diploma in Solothurn, Baumgartner decided to strike out on his own in Geneva as an independent watchmaker. “For me to see a future, as a young watchmaker, to just keep doing what watchmakers have done for 150 years, made me depressed. So I broke out of that and this is why we created Urwerk.”

We wanted to create a new way of telling the time, with new mechanisms, new indications, with contemporary aesthetics.”

In 1995, Baumgartner, his brother Thomas, and artist Martin Frei began a discussion

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THE DABNEY

P L AY

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THE DABNEY A chef’s interpretation of Mid-Atlantic cuisine crops up in Washington DC’s Shaw neighborhood.

by Shyam Patel

Chef Jeremiah Langhorne’s homage to the Mid-Atlantic starts with his new restaurant’s setting, revived 19thcentury rowhouses with traditional design elements like exposed brick walls, a wood-burning hearth, and open shelving. His dishes are prepared using methods characteristic of the region’s early cooking—the hearth’s embers provide the heat for ingredients sourced from close-range farms and the rooftop garden. A recent menu included both soft-shell crab dressed with green garlic and radish, and basil-barbequed quail served with grits and pickled green tomatoes. Strawberry and lime are paired with anise hyssop in Langhorne’s take on gazpacho topped with Maryland blue crab. The cocktails are just as imaginative: a favorite vegetable is reinvented in a rhubarb negroni with gin, rainwater Madeira wine, and rhubarb Amaro. Even the non-alcoholic drinks from the “temperance” menu get creative, including a thyme

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lemonade, with coffee tonic, virgin pink ‘gin,’ and iced tea. Langhorne’s years as Chef de Cuisine under chef Sean Brock at McCrady’s Restaurant in Charleston, South Carolina reflect his choice of cornbread and grits as side dishes and come through in the rustic sensibility of the restaurant: waiters clad in flannel, the brick floor, and reclaimed wood tables. thedabney.com

ABOVE: The dining room.

THE DABNEY 122 Blagden Alley NW Washington, DC 20001

WA T C H J O U R N A L

S T AY

by Daniel Preston CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: The bar at Fasano al Mare. The rooftop pool.

A guest room.

FASANO RIO DE JANEIRO Rua Vieira Souto 80 Rio De Janeiro, Brazil

Ready or not, the world is coming to Rio this summer. The coveted place to stay? Undoubtedly Philippe Starck’s modernist Hotel Fasano, a singular beacon of style in the city’s bland hospitality palette. With its hillside location on the tony Avenida Vieira Souto overlooking Ipanema beach, a Bossa Nova-era vibe permeates the interiors, a nod to the musical revolution that swept across Rio during the glamorous 1950s and early 60s before the country fell to dictatorial rule.

Consider Starck’s curvy “Ears-that-See” mirrors and the amorphous armchairs by local design legend Sérgio Rodrigues in the 89 rooms a complement to the sexy rhythm of Bossa Nova’s samba and jazz mashup.

Brazilian materials—Îpe flooring, the reception desk crafted from a piquiá tree stump—add warmth to the public spaces, while Ocimar Versolato–inspired staff uniforms reinforce the retro feel. The heated white-

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marble rooftop pool offers unparalleled views of the sea; the upscale Mediterranean restaurant, Fasano al Mare, draws a moneyed crowd with Scandinavian wood tables and Murano chandeliers; but the star here is the seafood-focused menu by chef Paolo Lavezzini who cut his teeth at the three-Michelin-starred Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence. End the night down the hall in the darkened, wood-paneled Baretto-Londra bar, where on the right night guests will catch a live Bossa Nova band (but more likely, classic rock). fasano.com/br

FA S A N O R I O

FASANO RIO A midcentury masterpiece with Olympic-sized luxury.

G E T AWAY

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RESPLENDENT CEYLON TEA TRAILS At Sri Lanka’s first Relais & Chateaux resort, an emphasis on a beloved national drink.

RESPLENDENT CEYLON TEA TRAILS

By Logan R. Baker Since its decades-long civil war ended in 2009, Sri Lanka has attracted travelers on the hunt for the next Balistyle escape and hoteliers looking to plant their flags in the Southeast Asian island. The Resplendent Ceylon Tea Trails, an all-bungalow resort dedicated to the country’s famous cash crop, is run by one of the area’s leading tea producers and was one of the first to set off the wave of development when it opened in 2005. Situated in the Bogawantalawa region near the Highlands, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a working plantation forms the beating heart of the hotel; it feeds the spa, which offers tea-based treatments such as jasmine and cinnamon baths, and is used to source ingredients for tea-infused dishes at the restaurant. Guided excursions include visits to the local tea pickers’ villages, working fields, and a century-old tea factory onsite.

Pathways that cut across charming Ceylon tea gardens lead to the 26 rooms in five Colonial-era planter bungalows, including the newly unveiled Dunkeld. Inside, the four suites are outfitted with period teak furnishings and freestanding tubs; a shared infinity-edge pool has sweeping views of Castlereagh Lake but guests are in good hands no matter the accommodation. The resort is all-inclusive, allowing patrons to engage in a plethora of activities that showcase the beauty of Sri Lanka’s rolling landscape in full. Take a short day trip to the Buddhist temples in the holy city of Kandy, also a World Heritage Site, then return for a nighttime ‘bed tea,’ an in-room ritual served by a private butler. resplendentceylon.com CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: View from the Norwood bungalow. The pool outside the Castlereagh bungalow.

OPPOSITE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Lake and mountain near the resort. Living room inside the Tientsin bungalow. Inside the Norwood Hazel Master Suite.

RESPLENDENT CEYLON TEA TRAILS 46/38 Nawam Mawatha Colombo 2, Sri Lanka

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G E T AWAY

RESPLENDENT CEYLON TEA TRAILS

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T R A N S P O RT

NECESSITIES

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LAMBORGHINI $1,983,258 (855) 971-8988 lamborghini.com

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NECESSITIES T R A N S P O RT

FERRUCCIO’S FUTURE To celebrate Ferruccio Lamborghini’s 100th birthday, his eponymous brand has produced an automobile of staggering strength and speed dubbed the Centenario.

The car boasts 770 horsepower and accelerates from 0 to 62 mph in just 2.8 seconds.

HAUTE WHEELS With wide hood scoops and a body and chassis constructed of carbon fiber, the Centenario flaunts its agility and ease of movement. Pure design and functionality come together in the vehicle’s

contoured exterior, and an HD touchscreen inside the car provides satellite navigation, social media applications, and data on g-forces.

INNOVATION STATION Air flows through ducts inside the front headlight casings and around wheel arches, guiding wind to the tail of the car while cooling it. Additionally, Lamborghini’s new rear-wheel steering stabilizes the vehicle, ensuring that the Centenario drives as smooth as it looks.

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STYLE

NECESSITIES

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ETRO $2,740 (212) 247-1200 etro.com

NAME BRAND Italian fashion house Etro delivers an eclectic collection full of multicultural inspiration and unique architectural form that is literally branded with a unique identity— Etro’s name is printed periodically throughout.

CULTURAL CONNECTION In a design inspired by the abstract paper cut-outs of Henri Matisse, bold geometric hues of turquoise and fuchsia stand out with the help of thick black lines, giving a modern edge to classic Asian motifs.

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VIVACIOUS VERSATILITY Made of 100% silk, this playfully artistic anklelength maxi is the perfect piece for day-to-night.

Soft to the touch, its relaxed fit, silk-fabric belt, and crossed shoulder straps make for a go-togem from season to season. After an evening on the town, instead of hanging this dress in a closet, consider framing it for your wall.

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NECESSITIES STYLE

VILEBREQUIN $250 (888) 458-0051 vilebrequin.com

HIT THE BEACH Saint Tropez-based Vilebrequin has been creating luxury swimwear since the 1970s. The brand’s tonguein-cheek colorful patterns in classic silhouettes have made a splash the world over, from the white sand beaches of California to yachts in the Mediterranean.

DURABLE DUDS Vilebrequin’s swim trunks are made of a quick-dry fabric similar to that of boat sails, ensuring comfort in and out of the water. The brand’s reinforced double-stitched seams make for a longer wear wherever your travels take you.

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PRESERVATION DEDICATION Designed in the classic Moorea cut, these limitededition Worldmap Dots trunks look good while doing good. A portion of the sales are donated to Te Mana o Te Mana, a French Polynesian non-profit organization dedicated to protecting sea turtles, an animal widely known as “The Spirit of Saint Tropez.”

A C C E S S O RY

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HERMÈS $1,125 (800) 441-4488 hermes.com

HIGH STYLE Since its founding in 1837—as a bespoke leather harness and bridle supplier to European nobility—Hermès has honed the art of leather crafting for nearly two centuries. The Hermès calfskin wedge sandal, introduced for Summer 2016, is an exemplary combination of the maison’s leatherworking skill and high fashion.

COUTURE QUALITY With its hand-stitched details and futuristic design, this shoe is sure to enhance your strolling pleasure, from a walk through Paris to a seaside boîte.

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BLANC IS BEST A wedge heel provides extra stability while keeping the allure of a high heel. The cool white color (blanc in French) is perfect for sultry summer days and nights.

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NECESSITIES A C C E S S O RY

ROLLS-ROYCE $45,854 for six-piece set (703) 834-1700 rolls-roycemotorcars.com

RE-DEFINING PERFECTION When Charles Stewart Rolls met Sir Frederick Henry Royce in 1904, they embarked on a path to automotive perfection. Today, Rolls-Royce has expanded beyond motorized vehicles with its made-to-order Wraith luggage collection, designed to complement the luxury auto manufacturer’s famous Wraith model, both in dimension and elegance.

PERFECT HARMONY The six-piece collection consists of three Long Weekender bags, two Grand Tourer valises, and one sleek

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Garment Carrier. Mixed-materials – two-tone leather, carbon fiber frame, for durability and effortless maneuvering, and contrasting stitching – all add to the luxurious experience of the Wraith.

TAKE ME AWAY Even the handles have been carefully crafted to balance the weight of the bags and self-righting wheels keep them definitively vertical. Timelessly luxurious and contemporary in design, the collection is a harmonious complement to your luxury vehicle.

J E W E L RY

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TAFFIN BY JAMES DE GIVENCHY Price upon request (212) 421-6222 taffin.com

HOUSEHOLD NAME James Taffin de Givenchy’s uncle is none other than Hubert de Givenchy, the famed Parisian couturier who dressed the likes of Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly; an aptitude for luxury design clearly runs in the family. Givenchy’s one-of-a-kind designs for Taffin are inspired by French jewelry greats Raymond Templier and Suzanne Belperron, as well as a personal connection with his clients. The jewelry breaks traditional rules by combining unconventional materials with spectacular gemstones.

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PURPLE REIGN A 5.28-carat purple sapphire sourced in Madagascar serves as the centerpiece for this unique ring. Set in 18-karat rose gold, this rare stone is surrounded by grey ceramic, creating a unique setting in a horizontal orientation.

PRIVACY PLEASE Taffin’s airy Madison Avenue atelier welcomes guests to view the jewels by appointment only.

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NECESSITIES J E W E L RY

POMELLATO $46,400 (212) 879-2118 pomellato.com

GOING GREEN Pomellato is known for its daring use of color blended with precious metals to extraordinary effect. A new addition to the brand’s dance-inspired Tango collection, this bracelet is crafted of 18K rose gold set with emeralds, color-change garnets, and demantoid garnet. The jewels are set in a fine layer of burnished sterling silver over the gold, allowing a further play of light.

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PHILANTHROPY-MINDED The Milanese jeweler has supported the World Wildlife Fund in Italy for over 20 years. Pomellato created sister brand Dodo, named for the extinct bird, in an effort to highlight the importance of protecting endangered species.

TECH

NECESSITIES

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LYNX $9,499 (888) 289-5969 lynxgrills.com

HIGH STEAKS Fusing tech with taste, California-based Lynx has released a grill firmly planted in the 21st-century and worthy of its SmartGrill moniker. The voiceactivated and Wi-Fi enabled grill takes the maddening guesswork out of grilling by setting temperatures and alerts for flipping and cook time, and includes an automatic shut-off feature.

CLASSY COOKOUT The grill can sear a sirloin and char romaine simultaneously without anything but instructions on

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your part, either spoken or provided by a recipe on the Lynx app. Temperature sensors gauge heat output on the stainless steel grilling grates for unbeatable barbecue results.

ORDER UP The stainless steel exterior is humidity-proof, protecting the device’s technological integrity on the hottest of days. A weatherproof box can be found underneath the grill to protect it during summer storms.

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NECESSITIES TECH

SIRIN LABS $17,400 (866) 895-4742 sirinlabs.com

FROM THE GOLDEN STATE TO THE WHITE CITY Rivaling California’s Silicon Valley for the world’s leading tech hub, Tel Aviv’s Silicon Wadi (valley in Arabic) is the home of startup Sirin Labs. Last month, the Israeli brand launched the Solarin smartphone, creating a new standard for luxury telecommunication.

ENCRYPTED EXCELLENCE While it boasts compatibility with 24 bands of LTE connection worldwide, the true ingenuity of the Solarin lies in its security aspects. The phone is able to go off

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the grid immediately, encrypting all calls and messages, making it ideal for classified communication.

UNPARALLELED PERFECTION The curved glass screen is supported by titanium panels protecting the phone’s skeleton. With a carbon fiber cover, 18-karat yellow-gold-plated sides, and black diamond inlay, Solarin’s luxe exterior complements its high-tech capabilities.

HOME

NECESSITIES

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MISSONI HOME Price upon request (212) 517-9339 missonihome.com

HOT SEAT Missoni’s endless love affair with colorful patterns adds a dynamic kick to the brand’s home decor. The family-owned-and-operated Italian fashion house has created vibrant pieces like the Daniela armchair for its 2016 Home collection.

SITTING PRETTY The armchair’s unique silhouette effortlessly pairs Missoni’s signature prints with a curving architectural form. A subdued statement with timeless appeal, the Daniela is the perfect accent to any living space.

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LOFTY LOUNGING This exuberant laminated beechwood armchair is available in sunny, rich prints and natural oak, sepia, and white finishes. The rubberized seat and backrest ensure the durability of the luxe perch—a testament to Missoni’s longstanding excellence in product quality.

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NECESSITIES HOME

NERI & HU FOR NANIMARQUINA From $3,225 (646) 701-7058 nanimarquina.com

SHANGHAI SPIRIT The Jie hand-tufted rug is produced by family-owned Spanish studio Nanimarquina. The name (街 in Chinese) was chosen by Shanghai-based designers Neri & Hu to evoke the spirit of a true metropolis, China’s ancient city of the same name.

TEXTILE TILES Varying pile heights and finishes add to the visual interest of the rug’s design, while the rug’s mixed light and dark tile-like shapes give the illusion of an urban boulevard beneath your feet, inspired by the tiled streets of Jie. Of course, this pathway is a bit softer.

CIVIC UNION Produced in India and Pakistan and composed of 100% Chokla wool, the rug is available in both blue (pictured) and celadon—a classic jade hue used in Chinese ceramics.

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S P O RT S G E A R

NECESSITIES

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KILLSPENCER $350 (213) 484-0888 killspencer.com

KICK OFF Since the first organized American football game in 1869—in which players wore no helmets and played by rules that more closely resembled modern-day soccer—football equipment has certainly evolved. But the heart and soul of the game remains the leather ball. KILLSPENCER’s handcrafted football serves as a homage to this bygone era.

CALIFORNIA CRAFTSMANSHIP The California-made football sets a new standard for athletic gear with its clear focus on quality pro-

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duction. From the gold foil emblem to its fine black leather and Italian suede, it will be difficult to decide whether to toss the pigskin around or display it.

CALL THE PLAY With three available colorways and a monogram option, every football enthusiast is bound to covet this custom football that will pass the test of time.

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NECESSITIES S P O RT S G E A R

11RAVENS $18,000 (310) 741-1681 11ravens.com

YOUR SERVE The game tables produced by Los Angeles-based 11Ravens are always made to order, from the exact dimensions to the color scheme. This ultimate level of customization allows for the ideal curation of your personal ping-pong parlor.

KILL SHOT The Avettore table presents itself as equal parts stylish and professional with angular legs and sharp color combinations. Available in lime or orange with maple and black accents, the table comes with a

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removable net and is crafted from your selection of moisture-controlled walnut, teak, or maple wood.

DETAILED DESIGN Bernard Semerdjian, creative director for 11Ravens, leads a team of artisans who craft, sand, and polish each individual piece by hand, culminating in a designcentric table that enhances the decor of any living room or office.

WEAPON

NECESSITIES

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SANDRIN $1,500 (724) 602-4431 cabotgun.com

IT TAKES TWO A new partnership between Pennsylvania-based Cabot Guns and Italian tungsten carbide maker Turmond s.p.a. has spawned a series of limited-edition knives branded “Sandrin.” The blades are crafted of tungsten carbide—the hardness of which allows for superior cutting precision—and marks a first for the American company.

TOUGHER THAN NAILS Tungsten is Swedish for “heavy stone,” and for good reason; its combination with carbon yields a material

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that scores close to nine on the Mohs scale, with a melting point of 5,200 degrees Fahrenheit.

MEET YOUR MATCH The Sandrin Intium knife boasts a handle crafted of stabilized colored wood. Each piece in the limited series of 30 numbered knives will be unique due to the variations in the wood’s natural grain.

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WA T C H J O U R N A L OPPOSITE: The Patek Philippe 5930G World Time Chronograph

A World First

The patents held by Patek Philippe offer a glimpse into the history of haute horlogerie.

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Patek Philippe’s list of watchmaking firsts is so long that it’s easy to overlook some of them.

After all, once you’ve crafted many of the world’s most famously complicated timepieces, inventing the winding crown, various calendar mechanisms, and the split-second chronograph— not to mention the wristwatch itself—the reflexive impulse to tout every last patent and achievement tends to wane.

Among Patek’s less-celebrated milestones is a 1950 invention attributed to an independent watchmaker contracted to Patek Philippe—Louis Cottier—a name well known to watch geeks and collectors of complicated timepieces designed for travelers. Cottier freelanced for various big names in Swiss watchmaking, but his most notable achievements came through his partnership with Patek Philippe.

In the late 19th century, as international travel and communication became possible for more of the world’s population, nations came together and set forth a new standard of 24 world time zones. Prior to the adoption of universal time, the very idea that one could know the precise hour in a place a thousand miles away was revolutionary—until then time was a distinctly local thing. It was Cottier who invented the modern world time watch, in which a pair of crowns control a dynamic timekeeping mechanism to aid travelers in need of the time in multiple destinations. Known for its balanced design and the evocative representation of international place-names corresponding to all 24 time zones, a World Time watch from Patek Philippe makes a statement about its wearer’s presumably international lifestyle.

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LEFT: The Guilloche-decorated dial of the new 5930G

RIGHT: The CH 28-520HU automatic movement

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The world time and chronograph modules of the new CH 28-520HU movement

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COMPLICATION COMBINATION The resonant design has since been copied by myriad watchmakers, yet it remains closely associated with Patek through its deep connection to Cottier. It has also proven to be a popular bridge complication between entry-level watches and the high complications that impassion “whale” collectors. The World Time is, importantly, a complication that consumers tend to use, its combination of complexity and approachable price have made it a favorite among younger watch fans. Several years ago Patek Philippe president Thierry Stern, the fourth generation of his family to lead the brand, told me that the World Time was a strategic complication for winning the next generation of collectors.

On a technical level, combining the world time mechanism with the chronograph—which Patek Philippe did this year—presented an array of engineering challenges. In a bid to maintain a relatively svelte profile, Patek eschewed a running seconds hand. On trying the watch on this year at Baselworld I appreciated this minor design detail. The dial already conveys a lot of information and verges on being busy; subtracting a superfluous function that can be quickly replicated by activating the chronograph makes perfect sense. The chronograph seconds mechanism, meanwhile, has been engineered to sustain the continuous running to which some owners will doubtlessly subject it. The chronograph is also of the flyback variety, meaning it’s a mechanism with roots in the world of pilot’s watches and aviation. How very apropos that it should be married with the World Time, perhaps the ultimate watch for travelers.

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The 5230G World Time

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The 5230R World Time

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The movement at the heart of the World Time Chronograph is the all-new CH 28-520 HU. While this caliber is indeed new, its architecture is strongly influenced by two alreadyextant mechanisms; the first is the chronograph module of the 5960 Annual Calendar Chronograph, and the second is of course a Patek Philippe World Time module. As is so often the case in complicated watchmaking, stacking the two mechanisms resulted in a tall movement.

Even still, the 5930 is the thinnest world time chronograph currently on the market.

Appealing design elements and attention to detail abound in the World Time 5930.

The dial is decorated with a swirled guilloche pattern in blue, complemented by the white, silver and blue chapter rings for the seconds counter and 24-hour scale. The coolness of the blue, silver and white accents marries perfectly with a white metal case—in this instance 18-karat gold—secured to the wrist by a blue alligator strap.

The lugs of the 5930G are of the vintage-style, winglet variety. This less integrated style of lugs also appears on the white gold and red gold updates to the 5230 World Time watch.

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“Designing a slightly larger Perpetual Calendar at 39 mm was a big boost to our Basel collection.”

—Larry Pettinelli

NAUTILUS AT 40 Though the major product news was the introduction of the doubly complicated Reference 5930, the biggest surprise news for most visitors to BaselWorld was the conspicuous absence of a single Nautilus reference in the 2016 Patek Philippe BaselWorld collection.

To watch collectors, the name Nautilus is synonymous not only with Jules Verne, but with Gérald Genta, whose pivotal watch designs formed the basis of the sport-luxury category in the 1970s, an otherwise inauspicious decade for watch design.

Born in America’s bicentennial year, the Nautilus turned 40 at Baselworld, and yet there was no celebration, no fanfare. We’ll have to wait and see if Patek is waiting to release anniversary models in what remains of 2016. There is a recent precedent for such a maneuver.

Two years ago, the company back-loaded its 175th anniversary celebrations into the second half of the year so that it could also roll out a standard Baselworld collection.

CALENDAR WATCHES Another Patek anniversary that just so happens to coincide with that of the Nautilus is the 20th anniversary of the Annual Calendar, yet another Patek Philippe invention. This feature is one meant to appeal to younger collectors in search of an intermediate complication.

In 1996 Patek Philippe presented a wholly new type of calendar watch that was not so simple as the plain calendar and not as complex as the perpetual calendar. The mechanism, aptly named the annual calendar, was programmed to know, for example, that June has 30 days and July has 31. Unfortunately, the calendar’s intelligence falls short of knowing that February’s length varies due to leap and non-leap years. This complication is a bridge between the highly complicated and expensive and the more accessible and straightforward.

Patek Philippe offered a tribute to this invention with two new precious metal versions of the Annual Calendar Ref. 5396. The white gold offering comes with a slate gray dial, and the red gold edition comes with a white dial. Both have Breguet numerals and dauphine hands.

If there was a singular focus to this year’s BaselWorld collection, it was complications.

One of Patek Philippe’s most popular high-complications, the Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5327, is now available in a slightly larger size, 39 mm.

According to Larry Pettinelli, Patek Philippe’s North American President, the firm made a concerted effort to renew its emphasis on the perpetual calendar as a complication.

“We have come out with some very strong pieces such as the Pilot watch in recent years, and we have a very strong business with our minute repeaters,” said Pettinelli. “We felt there was an opportunity to re-emphasize our Perpetual Calendars. Designing a slightly larger Perpetual Calendar at 39 mm was a big boost to our Basel collection.”

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The 5936R Annual Calendar

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The 5936G Annual Calendar

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The 5327J and 5327G Perpetual Calendars

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The new Ref. 5327 is all new in terms of its case dimensions and dials. It has a broader and thinner feeling profile than its predecessors, but it’s far from a radical departure for Patek Philippe. It will replace the Perpetual Calendar Reference 5140, which came in a hair smaller, at 37.2 mm in diameter, in the collection. The movement inside is the automatic Caliber 240 Q with a micro-rotor, a staple within Patek’s range of perpetual calendars for almost four decades.

THE FAMILY STERN In an era that has seen increasing consolidation of luxury brands, it’s unusual that Patek Philippe has remained privately held and guided by a single family for four generations.

As the most recent member of the Stern family to guide Patek Philippe, Thierry Stern is not merely his company’s senior manager. Nor is he a figurehead. Stern and his wife, Sandrine, continue to lead the company’s design efforts. Stern’s time designing watches for Patek Philippe has seen what is arguably Switzerland’s most conservative watch marque take occasionally unexpected risks. The Aquanaut, just such an example, is a Thierry Stern design. He reimagined what is arguably the platonic ideal of the wristwatch when he updated the Calatrava, adding a hunter caseback that seemed made for engraving and personalization.

Last year, Stern presented a white gold pilot’s watch with a mid five-figure price tag. While journalists and bloggers had mixed opinions regarding Patek’s Pilot watch, from a commercial standpoint the watch was an unqualified success. The World Time Chronograph follows in the line of Stern designs that have found inspiration in Patek’s archives but also take watch design in unexpected and modern directions. It will be interesting to see how Stern might approach a Nautilus anniversary timepiece if—as many collectors hope—such a tribute is indeed in the offing.

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Orange is the New Black Photography by Jens Mortensen

This summer, try on a little color.

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STYLE

O R A NG E I S T H E N E W B L AC K

Baume & Mercier Petite Promesse, (800) 637-2437, baume-et-mercier.com

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Tudor Heritage Chronograph with fabric strap, (212) 906-0010, tudorwatch.com

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph, (212) 688-6644, audemarspiguet.com

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Hublot Big Bang Linen, (212) 308-0408, hublot.com

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Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200M Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8912, (877) 839-5224, omegawatches.com

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NOMOS GlashĂźtte Ludwig Neomatik Champagner, (212) 929-2575, nomos-glashuette.com

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Ralph Lauren RL888 38mm, (888) 475-7674, ralphlauren.com

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Audemars Cartier Piguet Hypnose Chopard Royal in Oak 18K Happy Selfwinding rose Sport gold Automatic, andwatch diamonds, in (212) rose (800) 223-2304, gold, 227-8437, (646)375-0807, us.chopard.com cartier.com; audemarspiguet.com Hermès bowl

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TIffany Cocktail inHermĂŠs 18K rose Rolex Arceau gold Everose Le and Temps diamonds, Day-Date, Suspendu, (800) (800)367-6539, (800) 843-3269, 441-4488, rolex.com tiffany.com; hermes.com Fort Standard trivet

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WA T C H J O U R N A L OPPOSITE TOP: Hugo Porta playing basketball with kids in SĂŁo Paulo, Brazil BOTTOM: Children in the Playworks program play games in Berkeley, California

Good Sports

The Laureus Foundation supports organized activities in developing regions.

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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Bono and Nelson Mandela at the inaugural Laureus World Sports Awards in 2000, children participate in Laureus-funded activities

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Soccer practice

Michelle Obama’s “Let’s Move” campaign has seen great success in recent years, and the national conversation is turning towards physical activity.

That makes this a perfect moment for The Laureus Foundation, founded in 2000 by patrons Richemont and Daimler and dedicated to promoting activity for the greater good. The charity is inspired by the words of its first patron, former South African president Nelson Mandela: “Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to unite people in a way that little else does. Sport can awaken hope where there was previously only despair.”

Laureus describes its mission as working “to educate children, adolescents and their families towards becoming leaders and role models in their communities, using sport as the means to achieve this. Its vision is for a fair social system, where all young people have the opportunity for social advancement through sport, education, art, culture, and professional training.”

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“Sport has the power to change the world. It has the power to unite people in a way that little else does. Sport can awaken hope where there was previously only despair.”

—Nelson Mandela

With over $100 million raised for its activities, the Laureus Sport for Good project has financed more than 150 initiatives in 35 countries, all focused on tackling social challenges that young people in developing areas might face: violence, crime, discrimination, lack of education, and unemployment. In Brazil, for example, the Bola Pra Frente initiative—led by professional soccer player Jorginho—focuses on two neighborhoods of Rio de Janeiro plagued by drug abuse, poverty, and violence, where children often drop out of school.

Another division of the Laureus Foundation is the Laureus World Sports Academy, an elite group of 60 leading sports figures who donate their time. Academy members include retired tennis pro Boris Becker, figure skater Katarina Witt, tennis pro Ilie Năstase, and professional golfer Jack Nicklaus. In addition to running myriad charitable projects, the academy is also the voting jury for the annual Laureus World Sports Awards.

Sports media professionals from over 100 countries nominate sports men and women for the prestigious awards, and the Academy members place their votes by closed ballot. The International Paralympic Committee also votes on the award for best disabled athlete, dubbed the Laureus World Sportsperson of the Year with a Disability.

The Model City Initiative, started in 2014, is one of the newest in the Laureus Foundation’s stable of activities. Through funding dedicated to Playworks and Up2Us Sports—two organizations working across the US to bring sports leadership to vulnerable communities—the Model City initiative focuses on American cities and the unique needs of urban youth.

Through its leadership and vision, the Laureus Foundation continues to put the power of education and activity to use where it’s needed most.

Game on! —Hyla Bauer

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LEFT: Almudena Cid leads activities in Victoria, Spain RIGHT: Raul instructs kids in New York City

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TOP: 2016 Sportsman of the Year Novak Djokovic at the awards in Berlin, Germany BOTTOM: Sportsperson of the Year with a Disability Daniel Dias with his trophy in Braganca, Brazil

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WA T C H J O U R N A L OPPOSITE: The Greubel Forsey Quantième Perpétuel à Équation

A Watch For All Time

A Close Look At Greubel Forsey’s Quantième Perpétuel à Équation 84

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It’s a grail of a complication: A perpetual calendar, capable of adjusting forward or backwards through time, over days, weeks, months, years and leap years, knowing the solstices, equinoxes, and the difference between sidereal and mean solar time without the need to re-adjust again with a pusher. Since the earliest scientific endeavor to place mechanical certainty on the nature of time (think of the Antikythera mechanism), these mechanics have always been complex. However, Greubel Forsey, with it’s “Quantième Perpétuel à Équation,” seems to have found the solution; and, in turn, has also quite brilliantly reinvented the complication.

There are two problems facing the mechanical operation of a perpetual calendar.

The first lies in the earth’s idiosyncratic rotation on its axis and around the sun; there’s no exact number of days in a full orbit of the earth. The problem is complicated further by the composition of the modern day calendar, with its leap years and variable number of days in the month. The second issue for a perpetual calendar is modern-day travel, which can take the watch wearer forwards or backwards by hours or even days; and even across the international date line.

In the past, watchmakers have traditionally favored a modular calendar plate, one advantage of which is that the calendar mechanism (already difficult to master) can be built up alongside the base movement and use an existing movement caliber, thus avoiding designing and building a completely new movement in order to integrate the calendar system. In pocket watches that featured perpetual calendars, the subdials driven by this mechanism were still reasonably large and easy to read. Once the sub dials were miniaturized into the wristwatch, however, these subdials became smaller and more difficult to read.

The Greubel Forsey Quantième Perpétuel à Équation surpasses these technical issues in a single bound. There are no additional pushers, no self-winding system, no mass of different dials to read. The watch has one crown, manual winding, and a linear read-out across the bottom right section of the dial. In effect, this small research-driven

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Two views of the back of the watch showing the year and the equation of time dial

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Dial prototypes

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watch firm from La Chaux-de-Fonds has produced a mechanical day-date analogue computer that can realize any day of the week, date, and month, both forward and backward in time, while accounting for leap years and monthly idiosyncrasies.

Perpetual calendars usually require almost constant running and adjustment, hence most are fitted with an automatic winding mechanism. If the watch can use the wrist’s energy to make sure that the watch does not stop, then the calendar should keep moving with the days, months, and even years. If the watch stops, then re-adjustment takes time and requires the use of an additional pusher or two. Greubel Forsey wanted to do something different, something that could be adjusted irrespective of when the watch stops. They thought of an alternative solution: a manual wind, swift adjustment with two speeds: one for the day-date and one for the time of day (hours and minutes).

Hence, the Greubel Forsey Quantième Perpétuel à Équation comes with a rapid adjustment (for the days, months, and years) and a simple adjustment (pulling out the crown) for the hours and minutes. In one watch the company has solved the problem of the need for an automatic winding mechanism, and eliminated the time needed to (laboriously) adjust the calendar if the watch stops. Another plus: the “crown can be turned in either direction to adjust all indications, without the risk of damaging the mechanism,” explains Forsey.

The genesis of this breakthrough can be seen in Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey’s backgrounds. Both began their careers in the watch restoration and repair business: Greubel at his family’s atelier in Alsace, Forsey at Asprey’s in London. “Robert and I were inspired to create the QP à Équation partly by the systems used in the large astronomical clocks found in the 15th century but also because we wanted to bring to our collectors an easier way to wear a perpetual calendar complication. This is why we designed this timepiece so that all eight indications (seasons, equinoxes, solstice, equation of time, date, day, month and year) could be controlled through the one winding crown at 3 o’clock, says Forsey. However, it took two years to produce a working

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prototype as part of the Experimental Watch Technology (EWT) workshop. Shown to a few journalists at Baselworld back in 2006, the EWT piece was modular, with the module parked on top of a manual wind movement and the calendar a set of concentric dials. With the working prototype in place, the refinement process started—and proved more complex than anticipated.

The first order of business was legibility of the dial. Both Robert and Stephen wanted a linear readout, which presented a number of problems. First, a number of disks must all turn simultaneously as the minute and hour hands traverse the midnight hour.

Second, the day and date disks will turn every 24 hours, but at the end of each month the date may have to jump anywhere from one to four days. The date in conjunction with the day and month disk will turn irregularly throughout the year, and then again every leap year. Human variability in determining the number of days in a month (somewhere between 28 and 31) coupled with the irregularity of the earth’s orbit around the sun (not 365 days but approximately 365 and a quarter) requires that the watch be able to adjust itself, unless you wish to include the use of a pusher.

The solution to the problem was a new form of perpetual calendar, one for which Greubel Forsey has a number of patents pending, and one that owes a great deal to the spherical differential developed by Forsey’s knowledge of vintage Bentley gearbox construction. A central set of cogs and levers within the watch serve as its “mechanical computer” and runs the entire perpetual calendar. It’s pure genius.

Almost all other perpetual calendars run on a series of cogs and levers that are arrayed laterally across the diameter of the movement. As the watch hands pass midnight, a grand lever (usually secured below 12) allows the program wheel to move on a set number of days, depending on the month, over a 4-year or 48-month cycle. However, these watches required pushers to adjust the days of the week, which proved to be a problem every time.

Think of it this way: You are at home on Monday, February 28 of a non-leap year.

At midnight, your watch should switch to Tuesday, March 1. The day has only moved one step; the month has also moved one step, but the date has moved 4 days (if 31 days per month is your default). To add to the complexity, if this happened to be a leap year,

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The dial of the EWT prototype from 2006

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The Quantième Perpétuel à Équation

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A back view of the Quantième Perpétuel à Équation

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The EWT on top of a schematic design of the Quantième Perpétuel à Équation

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the same pattern would be required of the day and month, but the date would now move forward 3 days. It’s the tying together of the date and days across the months that usually requires the use of pushers.

The Greubel Forsey Quantième Perpétuel à Équation took the lateral program wheel and lever, plus pusher adjustment wheels, and programmed everything into the central gearbox or “mechanical computer.” On the Greubel Forsey QP watch it lies just underneath the “Equation of Time” window, which shows in a very succinct form all the monthly differences between sidereal time and solar mean time. As the “Equation of Time” dial turns through the year, running off the hours and minutes hands, the program gearbox (mechanical computer) activates various other cog wheels that move the day, date, and month.

However, with the ability of the calendar to be wound forward and backwards with rapid adjustment, the movement’s Achilles heel lies (perhaps understandably) around the midnight hour. Because of the interaction of the complex gearing in the “mechanical computer,” the switch between days during the rapid adjust (given the position of the hours and minutes near to the midnight hour) could cause the mechanism to stop, or the days and date to fall out of synchronization. The problem with the functions was discovered in 2014. It then took another two years and a new patented selector mechanism (with an additional 30 components) to resolve the anomaly between the two adjustment systems.

Twelve years in the making, Greubel Forsey’s seventh invention is a remarkable achievement. It provides what no other watch manufacturer has before; a mechanical solution to the perpetual movement of time. No other watch comes close. Factor in the finishing that Greubel Forsey provides standard and the inclined 24-second tourbillon escapement, and you have one of the most complex watches in production today. “For us at Greubel Forsey, our driving force has always been innovation, constantly seeking to re-invent those complications others might consider cannot be further improved upon,” says Forsey. Indeed, the watch is a triumph for innovative and inventive thinking in watchmaking. —Dr. Andrew Hildreth

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WA T C H J O U R N A L OPPOSITE: Montblanc Heritage ChronomĂŠtrie Dual Time Vasco da Gama

House Bound

In-House? Proprietary? Outsourced? Navigating the terms and the advantages.

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This year watches that combine stock movements with proprietary modules—were prevalent at both SIHH and Baselworld. And it seems that this burgeoning trend may offer watch lovers the best of both worlds: a wallet-friendly price merged with a brand’s unique watchmaking capabilities. The challenge lies in communicating and educating consumers about the benefits of these timepieces, and that effort starts with demystifying and defining an aspiration that has obsessed and also plagued the watch industry—what constitutes an in-house movement.

In April, at Montblanc’s New York unveiling of its 2016 novelties, executives were feeling bullish about the Heritage Chronométrie Dual Time Vasco da Gama piece. They had reason to: The watch is marketed as leveraging some of the company’s horological skills housed in Villeret, where some 50 watchmakers handcraft complicated timepieces.

This craftsmanship was once reserved for the brand’s higher-end watches. Since taking the helm of the company in 2013, however, CEO Jérôme Lambert has endeavored to optimize the manufacturing capabilities at both Villeret and at the brand’s other manufacture in Le Locle.

But how does Montblanc manage to put that level of handcraftsmanship into a (relatively) mid-priced piece? A conversation with Jonathon L. Berke, Director of Training and Sales Development at Montblanc, confirmed that the Heritage Chronométrie Dual Time Vasco da Gama starts out with an outsourced base movement topped by a proprietary dual-time module. In 2014, Montblanc unveiled the Spirit Orbis Terrarum, which featured a similar mixture: A Sellita-made base movement enhanced with an in-house proprietary world-time module.

For these timepieces to find favor with consumers, however, both watch companies and watch collectors may have to let go of their pre-conceived notion that something made entirely in-house is necessarily better.

“At some point if you’re a big brand, you feel uncomfortable saying I don’t do everything in-house; however, if you look at where things are made, the idea of ‘in-house’ is very confusing because you can still find movements shared between certain brands.

The industry is full of specialized workshops. You used to never be able to tell who was doing what for anyone,” points out Sebastien Chaulmontet, Creative Designer of movement maker La Joux-Perret and watch brands Arnold & Son and Angelus.

In 2014, the Swiss La Joux-Perret was at the heart of a “who-makes-what” controversy when British watchmaker Roger Smith wrote an open letter to the watch world raising the question of whether companies were marketing their Swiss movements as British-made. It was not the first time such confusion had occurred. In 2009, TAG Heuer admitted that while they had designed the calibre 1887 movement in-house, it had been based off of a Seiko movement. While collectors were up in arms, those contentions may have been blown out of proportion, as collaborations have long been the backbone of the watch industry.

As Chaulmontet points out, everyone relies on each other. “[Certain] Jaquet Droz is done at Blancpain. [Blancpain’s manufacture] used to be called Frédéric Piguet, but they are now integrated. (Sometimes it is a) Piguet movement in a Droz or Harry Winston (watch).”

Indeed, some of the most collectible Omega timepieces include movements made

by ETA, but exclusively for Omega. The movements are perhaps better termed “proprietary,” as they utilize mechanisms which would not be found in any other brand or watch—a quality prized by collectors when considering additions to their collection.

There are currently no regulations on employing the term “in-house.” The descriptor is often used when a calibre has been designed by the brand, but made from external components. “A lot of brands think of themselves as in-house [manufactures] but even they need ball bearings, rubies, or wheels from a subcontractor,” says Chaulmontet.

Thierry Collot, President of Parmigiani Fleurier Americas, a brand that is nearly 100 percent vertical, agrees: “What is tricky is that there are not that many workshops brands can go to [to source parts], and you can’t create the expertise of making balance wheels from scratch. There is a distinction between watchmakers and watch brands.

There’s a variance; the more components you make, the more you are a watchmaker.”

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“The industry is full of specialized workshops. You used to never be able to tell who was doing what for anyone.”

—Sebastien Chaulmontet

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For the majority of watch companies, it’s not possible to achieve total integration, whereby 100 percent of components are not only designed by, but also manufactured and assembled by, the same company.

The Sandoz Family Foundation, creators of Parmigiani Fleurier, started bringing skills in-house in 2000 with the acquisition of case maker Les Artisans Boîtiers, Elwin screws, and Atokalpa, a wheel and hairspring maker. The purchase of dial manufacturer Quadrance et Habillage and Vaucher, which designs and makes movements, further advanced the company’s manufacturing capabilities.

Says company president Collot, “We are 95 percent. But even we are not able to put all the expertise under the same roof. In Switzerland you don’t move people! It took us fifteen years to put together all the elements and for many companies, the most critical components are going to be difficult. The case, for example, is difficult (to source).”

In Parmigiani watches, the sapphire crystal is the only part not made by the Sandoz companies; the Sandoz family of companies also create elements for other prestigious brands.

More brands began marketing the benefits of fully in-house movements when the Swatch Group announced in 2011 that it would phase out supplying rival brands with its ETA movements. Prior to that, the majority of brands did not offer proprietary movements. The industry relied heavily on specialist workshops, which in turn delivered reliable and efficiently-priced components. Though collectors of high-end timepieces would likely investigate the movement’s provenance, presumably the majority of Swiss watch purchases were made without consumers asking where a watch’s movements were made.

While anti-trust laws prevented the Swatch Group from shutting off the supply overnight, the announcement galvanized the industry. Large brands with the capacity to do so began to invest in bringing skills in-house.

Some brand executives feel that striving for 100 percent in-house compromises quality. Says Peter Stas, CEO of Frédérique Constant and Alpina, “Regulation of a mechanical caliber is realized with nine miniature parts that are produced by a specialist supplier in the Jura. It’s not something you should strive to produce in-house. It has always been the strength of the watch industry to use specialists instead of having someone in every building making specialized regulation parts, screws and rubies. If you design in-house and put it together, I consider it in-house. But components like the balance wheel, regulation, spirals—even at Patek, it’s not in-house.”

Frédérique Constant and Alpina produce approximately 25 percent of their watches with a proprietary in-house movement (and outside parts), 30 percent quartz with reference to its horological smart watch, and 45 percent automatic Sellita. “Because those higher calibres are made in higher quantities, when people go to a watchmaker, they’re more familiar, they’re able to service them better,” continues Stas.

Indeed, the zeal for in-house movements may come with a distinct downside.“It’s like having a collector car,” says James Lamdin, founder of Analog/Shift, a vintage watch e-tailer. “There’s five of them in the world, and maybe one guy who can fix them.”

In other words, there is an advantage to a watch with a movement made in the thousands, if not millions—that can be serviced by any of a number of watchmakers.—Syl Tang

WA T C H J O U R N A L OPPOSITE: Giles and Nick English

All in the Family How family-run watchmakers survive and flourish in today’s global economy.

The luxury watch industry is dominated by large corporations and even larger conglomerates.

The Swatch Group, LVMH, the Kering Group, and the Richemont Group pack enormous power, leading the industry in sales volume and diversified distribution. But most watch companies originated as family businesses, often named after their founders. Brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, and Vacheron Constantin, as well as a myriad of others, are now under corporate ownership.

Still, some of the family-owned businesses that have remained independent are flourishing in today’s ultra-competitive luxury watch industry. Specialty companies appeal to collectors and dealers, who benefit from the personal connection that businesses of this size can offer. In order to discover what it takes to succeed as a small-scale business with large-scale rivals, Watch Journal talked to three different thriving brands. Here’s what they had to say.

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Graff MasterGraff Perpetual Calendar

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LEFT: Graff Snowfall watch

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RIGHT: Francois and Laurence Graff in a diamond mine

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A LONDON JEWELER BUILDS AN EMPIRE Graff is regarded worldwide as one of the top purveyors of diamond and precious-stone jewelry and watches. Laurence Graff founded the company and is its chairman, while his brother Raymond serves as the director of production. Laurence Graff’s son, Francois, is the company’s CEO. “Operating as a family business benefits us tremendously; we work together setting goals for the future of our business: to grow, to expand and to always be the very best,” says Francois Graff. “Graff Diamonds was founded in 1960 by my father. At the time our business was primarily a wholesale company, and then in the early 1970s we opened a retail store in Knightsbridge, London. This went on to become one of the most renowned diamond stores in the world, visited by collectors of jewelry and diamonds, kings and queens, and business people.”

Graff launched its watch collections in 2008, and today operates over 55 stores in countries around the world. While the expansion is global, “we are extremely proud of our British heritage, which spans more than 50 years, and to this day our global head office, design studio, and workshop—which employs over 70 master craftsmen—are located in the very heart of London,” says Graff. “We are all very involved in every part of the business, and while we each have defined roles within the company, we monitor every aspect of our operations. We interact with our employees around the world on a daily basis, speaking to Asia in the morning, Europe throughout the day, and America in the evening, so we are each aware of exactly what is going on, from production to design and retail. Many of the high jewelry houses we compete with aren’t family businesses; we are one of the few left that isn’t part of a big conglomerate. I believe that working together as a family puts us at a considerable advantage; it changes the dynamic of our business, making every process faster and more efficient.”

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WATCHMAKING FOR THE BRITISH SPORTSMAN Nick and Giles English literally flew into their business by chance. The avid amateur pilots were flying across France in the late 1990s when a faulty engine in their 1930s biplane forced them to land in the French countryside. The brothers vowed to repay the kindness of the farmer who welcomed them into his home (and their plane into his barn). The farmer, a fellow pilot with a passion for restoring wall clocks, was named Antoine Bremont.

Now, 14 years after its 2002 founding, Bremont operates boutiques in London, New York, and Hong Kong, and is dedicated to watchmaking in the brothers’ homeland.

“The fact that very few watch brands are family businesses with their founders still around is a big point of difference for Bremont,” Giles English, co-founder, says. “There’s a feel to a family business that consumers like; it’s much more personable, which is what Bremont is all about,” he said. “From our marketing to our customer service we are passionate in our approach and values, which definitely stems from being a family business.”

He goes on to say: “Nick and I have worked together for 20 years. The great thing about working together is that we are on the same page, and we trust one another completely. We can also be totally honest with one another, which is a huge advantage.

I know what he is going to like and vice-versa, which makes designing so much easier. It is quite a unique working relationship because we both do a bit of everything.” In addition to flying, the brothers are avid sportsmen and count sailing, shooting, and tennis among their favorite activities.

“One difficulty is separating work and family life—that can be tricky,” says English.

However, “I enjoy our families all getting involved and having this common bond, whether it is them all helping out at an air show or an America’s Cup event, or counting stock.”

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LEFT: A Bremont watchmaker inspects his work. RIGHT: Bremont Oracle 1 watch

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LEFT: H. Moser Pioneer Perpetual Calendar RIGHT: Edouard Meylan

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CONSOLIDATING UNDER THE FAMILY BANNER Georges-Henri Meylan established MELB Group as a family business, using the initials of his children to form the name. Meylan, a former CEO of Audemars Piguet, bought H. Moser and Hautlence to start his enterprise and is actively looking for additional watchrelated investments.

“A family business allows true independence in terms of creation but also in terms of communication,” says Edouard Meylan, Georges-Henri’s son and CEO of H. Moser.

“We came to make an audit of H. Moser & Cie. as watch experts, and fell in love with the brand. We thought that we would be the right people to bring it to the next level with our experience, our dynamism, and our entrepreneurial spirit.” H. Moser & Cie was founded in 1828 by Heinrich Moser; it ceased operations upon his death, until the MELB Group revived it in 2005.

As a family company, “we can be much more reactive because there are not so many organizational layers,” Meylan says. “At the end of the day, we are the shareholders, so we don’t focus on short-term results but look to create long-term value. Sometimes it can be hard to work with family members every day, but communication is key. Our interests are aligned and we can talk to each other in a very direct way. Independent family-owned retailers appreciate our family business, especially since some of the relationships we have date from previous generations.”

Asked about his company’s future, Meylan is cautiously optimistic: “Big groups have deeper pockets and can put pressure on us and our business partners. The future looks tough in general because it requires a lot of money, but it looks bright for those who will be creative, innovative and ready to take calculated risks.” —Keith W. Strandberg

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WA T C H J O U R N A L OPPOSITE: The Breguet Classique Hora Mundi 5727 in rose gold

Chiseled Features

The Fine Art of Guillochage is Alive and Well at Breguet.

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Watchmaker's desk at Breguet's office

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To the naked and untrained eye, a guilloché dial is decorated with a lovely pattern (or several), a decorative texture that enhances the character of a watch’s dial. The symmetry and accuracy of the engraving appear effortless. However, looking deeper into how the pattern takes shape at a haute horlogerie manufacture paints a different story entirely. The ability to produce precise engravings in repetitive patterns using a fine tool to remove metal from the piece is a feat of extraordinary craftsmanship.

Patience, precision, and passion for the craft are vital to the artisan, who, at the top manufactures, has undergone years of training to perfect his or her skills. It’s no wonder that guilloché engraving is so highly regarded in the watchmaking world.

The name guillochage has uncertain origins. Some attribute it to a 1700s French engineer named Guillot, who is credited with inventing the engine-turning machine for engraving metal with precise patterns. Yet engine-turning engraving had been practiced in some shape or form since the 1500s, so this origin story has some notable inconsistencies. Regardless of the moniker’s origins, guillochage is widely recognized as an exceptional métier d’art in watchmaking circles.

The process involves first hollowing out with a hand graver any areas of the watch dial involved with a particular indication, including subdials for the second hand, the power reserve, and the moon phase. Depending

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LEFT: Breguet Classique Hora Mundi 5727 in white gold

RIGHT: Guillochage in action

M A N U FAC T U R E : C H I S E L E D F E AT U R E S

on the watch design and its complications, different areas may need to be smoothed out. After the watch face has a smooth finish, it’s attached to an engine-turning machine. The watch’s dial is held securely in position as the craftsman begins the precise engraving process, assisted by the machine’s ability to apply even pressure.

With its impeccable artistry, guillochage displays the craftsman’s skill and adds character to a watch’s dial by creating intricate, elegant patterns.

On a more practical level, guilloché engraving can create distinctions between sections of the dial displaying different functions, enhancing readability.

Breguet has been producing dials with engine-turned engraving for more than two centuries. In fact, Abraham-Louis Breguet began offering his watches with engine-turned dials of his own design in the 1780s. Today, engine-turning is a true hallmark of the Breguet brand, and this year’s Classique Hora Mundi 5727 shows that the technique is alive and well at the Geneva-based manufacture.

The Breguet Classique Hora Mundi features a dial with three different guilloché patterns, each placed and designed to complement the watch’s functions: a flame pattern, a cross-weave motif, and Clous de Paris. These beautiful designs thus serve both form and function, and are executed with all of the manufacture’s signature elegance and precision.

—Hyla Bauer

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Blancpain

Celebrating Sixty Years of the Ladybird watch 106

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Blancpain Ladybird

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Founded in 1735 as a family-run watchmaking business, and remaining in family hands for close to two centuries, Blancpain has an illustrious history of craftsmanship. The company, still based in Villeret, where Jehan-Jacques Blancpain set up his watchmaking atelier, celebrates 60 years of the pioneering Ladybird watch this year. blancpain.com

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The original Blancpain workshop in Villeret

L E G A C Y: B L A N C PA I N

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WA T C H J O U R N A L

1930

Jehan-Jacques Blancpain founds his watchmaking company in Villeret on the upper floor of his home.

Blancpain introduces the Rolls watch, the first automatic ladies watch.

1933 After the death of Frédéric-Emile Blancpain, the company is bought by Betty Fiechter and André Léal, ending nearly two centuries of family ownership. The firm is renamed Rayville-Blancpain.

1815 Frédéric-Louis Blancpain, Jehan-Jacques’ great-grandson, transforms the production methods to allow for serial production of a single watch type.

1865 Blancpain builds a two-story factory next to the Suze River, using water power to generate electrical energy for its production.

1920

1953

English watchmaker John Harwood, inventor of the automatic winding system, joins forces with Blancpain.

The Fifty Fathoms watch is introduced at the request of the French Navy.

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1735

L E G A C Y: B L A N C PA I N

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1956

2002

The Ladybird collection is launched, featuring the smallest round movement at the time.

Marc A. Hayek becomes Chairman and CEO of Blancpain.

2012

1961

Gianluca Genoni sets a new world record for free diving at 160 meters wearing his Fifty Fathoms watch.

Blancpain joins the SSIH group.

1983 After the “Quartz Crisis” of the 1970s, the Rayville-Blancpain name is sold to Jacques Piguet, which sets up production in Le Brassus, Switzerland, and changed the name to Blancpain SA.

2013 Blancpain celebrates the 60th Anniversary of the Fifty Fathoms Collection.

1991

2016

Blancpain launches the world’s most complicated wristwatch at the time, the model 1735.

Blancpain celebrates the 60th Anniversary of the Ladybird watch.

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Fifty Fathoms models through the years

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D E A D B E AT S E C O N D

HOROLOGY TERMINOLOGY

WATCH JOURNAL

Alarm Automatic Movement Rattrapante Chronograph Dual Time Equation of Time Flyback Chronograph GMT Annual Calendar Perpetual Calendar Dead Beat Second Minute Repeater Chronograph Grande Sonnerie Unidirectional Bezel Tourbillon Moon Phase Power Reserve Grand Complication Jumping Hour World Time Escapement Balance Wheel Gear Train Tachymeter Rotor Telemeter Pulsometer Big Date Retrograde Display 112

WATCH JOURNAL

HOROLOGY TERMINOLOGY

Dead Beat Second \ˈded, bēt\ \ˈse-kˈnd\

jaeger-lecoultre.com (866) 873-8009

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D E A D B E AT S E C O N D

Most mechanical watches with seconds hands employ ‘sweep’ seconds, meaning that the seconds hand is in constant motion, sweeping around the watch at a speed of one revolution per minute. In a watch equipped with a dead beat second movement, the hand actually jumps from one second to the next. It moves and stops once every second in its journey around the dial.

In the Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic True Second, an in-house movement was created for the jumping second hand, which provides greater precision in measuring time. After all, seconds do count.

WA T C H J O U R N A L

THE LIST Top Watch Retailers Across the Country

T OP R ETA I L E R S

THE LIST

ARIZONA

CH Premier Jewelers 2855 Stevens Creek Blvd. Santa Clara, CA E.D. Marshall Jewelers 95050 10261 N. Scottsdale Rd. (408) 983-2688 Scottsdale, AZ 85253 Brands: A. Lange & (480) 922-1968 Brands: Bremont, Franck Söhne, Breguet, Omega, Muller, Girard-Perregaux, Patek Philippe Louis Moinet, Piaget, Chatel & Co. Jewelers Ulysse Nardin Lincoln Street, between Ocean and 7th Avenues Hyde Park Jewelers Carmel, CA 93921 2502 E. Camelback Rd. (888) 524-2835 Phoenix 85016 Brands: Bell & Ross, (602) 667-3541 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Breitling, Hermès, Hublot, JaegerBell & Ross, Breguet, LeCoultre, Nomos Omega, Rolex, TAG Glashütte, Panerai, Heuer Richard Mille Tourneau Chong Hing Jewelers 7014 E. Camelback Rd. 390 Barber Lane Scottsdale, AZ 85251 Milpitas, CA 95035 (480) 429-2304 (408) 577-0888 Brands: Bell & Ross, Bremont, Tudor 140 W. Valley Blvd.

San Gabriel, CA 91776 CALIFORNIA (626) 280-9195 Ben Bridge 18436 Colima Rd. 7007 Friars Rd. Rowland Heights, San Diego 92108 CA 91748 (619) 291-7572 Brands: Baume & Mercier, (626) 810-8883 Brands: A. Lange & Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Girard-Perregaux, Söhne, Breguet, JaegerLeCoultre, IWC, Omega, Hublot, IWC, Patek Patek Philippe Philippe, TAG Heuer Bryant & Sons 812 State St. Santa Barbara, CA 93101 (805) 966-9187 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Breitling, Cartier, Patek Philippe C.J. Charles 1135 Prospect St. La Jolla, CA 92037 (858) 454-5390 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, Breguet, Breitling, Cartier, IWC, JaegerLeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin

David Orgell 262 N. Rodeo Dr. Beverly Hills, CA 90210 (310) 273-6660 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Girard-Perregaux, JeanRichard, Maurice Lacroix, Parmigiani, Perrelet Feldmar Watch Co. 9000 W. Pico Blvd.

Los Angeles 90035 (310) 274-8016 Brands: Blancpain, Breguet, Bremont, Carl F. Bucherer, Hermès, Omega

Geary's 360 N. Rodeo Dr. Beverly Hills, CA 90210 (310) 887-4250 Brands: Patek Philippe, Rolex Milano Bijou 928 S. Western Ave. Los Angeles 90006 (213) 382-1700 Brands: Bulgari, Franck Muller, Hermès, Hublot, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Montblanc, Omega, Roger Dubuis, TAG Heuer Polacheck’s Jewelers 4719 Commons Way Calabasas, CA 91302 (818) 225-0600 Brands: Cartier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe Shreve & Co. Stanford Shopping Center Palo Alto, CA 94304 (650) 327-2211 Brands: Corum, IWC, Omega, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Rolex, Tudor Topper Fine Jewelers 1315 Burlingame Ave. Burlingame, CA 94010 (650) 347-2221 Brands: Ball, Glashütte Original, Longines, Omega, Seiko, Zenith Tourbillon Boutique South Coast Plaza Costa Mesa, CA 92626 (714) 800-1925 231 Post St. San Francisco 94108 (415) 362-1525 Brands: Breguet, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Jaquet Droz, Omega, Swatch

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Tourneau 3333 S. Bristol St. Costa Mesa, CA 92626 (714) 850-0222 7007 Friars Rd. San Diego 92108 (619) 296-8463 845 Market St. San Francisco 94103 (415) 974-1846 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Breguet, Cartier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, TAG Heuer, Vacheron Constantin Traditional Jewelers 817 Newport Center Dr. Newport Beach, CA 92660 (949) 721-9010 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Cartier, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, TAG Heuer Westime 216 North Rodeo Dr. Beverly Hills, CA 90210 (310) 888-8880 8569 Sunset Blvd.

West Hollywood, CA 90069 (310) 289-0808 1227 Prospect St. La Jolla, CA 92037 (858) 459-2222

COLORADO Hyde Park Jewelers Cherry Creek Shopping Center Denver 80206 (303) 333-4446 Brands: Breguet, Chopard, IWC, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin Oster Jewelers 251 Steele St. Denver 80206 (303) 572-1111 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Bell & Ross, Bremont, Hublot, Nomos Glashütte, Ulysse Nardin Betteridge Jewelers 141 E. Meadow Dr. Vail, CO 81657 (970) 790-6560 Brands: Bell & Ross, Bulgari, Cartier, IWC, Panerai, Patek Philippe CONNECTICUT Betteridge Jewelers 239 Greenwich Ave. Greenwich, CT 06830 (203) 869-0124 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Cartier, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe Lux Bond & Green 140 Glastonbury Blvd.

Glastonbury, CT 06033 (860) 659-8510

3832 Cross Creek Rd. Malibu, CA 90265 (310) 456-2555 Brands: Audemars Piguet, 1 Mohegan Sun Blvd.

Franck Muller, Omega, Uncasville, CT 06382 Richard Mille, Ulysse (860) 862-9900 Nardin, Zenith 46 La Salle Rd. West Hartford, CT 06880 (860) 521-3015

WA T C H J O U R N A L

136 Main St. Westport, CT 06107 (203) 227-1300 169 Greenwich Ave. Greenwich, CT 06830 (203) 629-0900 Brands: Breitling, Cellini, Montblanc, Rolex, TAG Heuer

The Gardens Mall Palm Beach Gardens, FL 33410 (561) 775-3600 Brands: Breguet, Bulgari, IWC, Patek Philippe

Shreve, Crump & Low 125 Greenwich Ave. Greenwich, CT 06830 (800) 225-7088 Brands: Breiting, Nomos Glashütte, Piaget, Roger Dubuis, TAG Heuer FLORIDA Altier Jewelers 701 S. Federal Hwy. Boca Raton, FL 33432 (561) 395-3462 Brands: Breitling, Cartier, Patek Philippe

Hamilton Jewelers 215 Worth Ave. Palm Beach, FL 33480 (561) 659-6788

342 San Lorenzo Ave. Coral Gables, FL 33146 (305) 446-1233 7457 N. Kendall Dr. Miami 33156 (305) 667-7517 4200 Conroy Rd. Orlando, FL 33431 (407) 363-5740 8001 S. Orange Blossom Trail Orlando, FL 32809 (407) 859-3116 140 University Town Center Dr. Sarasota, FL 34243 (941) 893-1124 2223 N. Westshore Blvd.

Tampa, FL 33607 (813) 354-8080 Brands: Breitling, Montblanc, Patek Philippe, Rolex, TAG Heuer

Tourneau 5494 Tamiami Trail N. Naples, FL 34108 (239) 591-1342 320 San Lorenzo Ave. Coral Gables, FL 33146 (305) 448-6878

HAWAII

Aventura Mall Aventura, FL 33180 (305) 932-2280

Tourneau 2301 Kalakaua Ave. Honolulu 96815 (808) 922-4111 Brands: Blancpain, Devon, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Vacheron Constantin

Bal Harbour Shops Bal Harbour, FL 33154 (305) 866-4312 175 Worth Ave. Palm Beach, FL 33480 (561) 832-8812 The Gardens Mall Palm Beach Gardens, FL 33410 (561) 694-6028 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Frédérique Constant, Longines, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Tourneau Weston Jewelers 1728 Main St. Weston, FL 33326 (954) 389-7990 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bulgari, Cartier, Chopard, Hublot, Montblanc Yamron 5555 Tamiami Trail N. Naples, FL 34108 (239) 592-7707 Brands: Breitling, Bulgari, Harry Winston, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Patek Philippe, Ulysse Nardin

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Tourneau 3393 Peachtree Rd. N.E. Atlanta 30326 (404) 760-1883 Brands: Bell & Ross, Blancpain, IWC, Panerai, Vacheron Constantin

Ben Bridge Jeweler 1450 Ala Moana Blvd.

Honolulu 96814 (808) 955-0177 Brands: Rolex

ILLINOIS C. D. Peacock Northbrook Court Northbrook, IL 60062 (847) 564-8030 Oakbrook Center Oak Brook, IL 60523 (630) 571-5355 Old Orchard Center Skokie, IL 60077 (847) 679-1837 Brands: Cartier, IWC, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Rolex, TAG Heuer Woodfield Mall Schaumburg, IL 60173 (847) 619-6560 Brands: Cartier, Corum, Longines, Panerai, Rolex, TAG Heuer Tourbillon Boutique 545 N. Michigan Ave. Chicago 60611 (312) 836-3800 Brands: Blancpain, Breguet, Glashütte Original, Jaquet Droz, Omega, Swatch

Tourneau 835 N. Michigan Ave. Chicago 60611 (312) 266-7600 Brands: Baume & Mercier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, TAG Heuer Trabert & Hoeffer 111 E. Oak St. Chicago 60611 (312) 787-1654 Brands: Breguet, Franck Muller, Jaquet Droz, Parmigiani, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin KANSAS Tivol 4721 W. 119th St. Overland Park, KS 66209 (913) 345-0200 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, TAG Heuer MARYLAND Liljenquist & Beckstead 7101 Democracy Blvd.

Bethesda, MD 20817 (800) 719-1190 Brands: Cartier, Longines, Omega, Raymond Weil, TAG Heuer Radcliffe Jewelers 1848 Reisterstown Rd. Pikesville, MD 21208 (410) 484-2900 825 Dulaney Valley Rd. Baltimore 21204 (410) 321-6590 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Breitling, Cartier, IWC, Raymond Weil, TAG Heuer MASSACHUSETTS Lux Bond & Green 416 Boylston St. Boston 02116 (617) 266-4747

T OP R ETA I L E R S

King Jewelers 18265 Biscayne Blvd.

Aventura, FL 33160 (305) 935-4900 Brands: Bell & Ross, Chopard, Hublot, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Montblanc

Mayors Jewelers Town Center at Boca Raton Boca Raton, FL 33431 (561) 368-602

GEORGIA

THE LIST

Les Bijoux 306 Plaza Real Boca Raton, FL 33432 (561) 361-2311 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, Manfredi Jewels Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, 121 Greenwich Ave. Roger Dubuis, Vacheron Greenwich, CT 06830 Constantin, Van Cleef & (203) 622-1414 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Arpels Breguet, Bulgari, Franck Levinson Jewelers Muller, Richard Mille, 888 E. Las Olas Blvd.

Vacheron Constantin Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301 (954) 462-8880 72 Elm St. Brands: Bulgari, Dior, New Canaan, CT 06840 Franck Muller, Hermès, (203) 966-8705 Brands: Baume & Mercier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai Hermès, Rolex

Tourbillon Boutique Miami Design District 140 N.E. 39th St. Miami 33137 (305) 576-4571 Brands: Breguet, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Jaquet Droz, Omega, Swatch

WA T C H J O U R N A L

THE LIST

60 Central St. Wellesley, MA 02482 (781) 235-9119 Brands: Cellini, Patek Philippe, Rolex, Shinola, TAG Heuer, Tudor Royal Jewelers 58 Main St. Andover, MA 01810 (978) 475-3330 Brands: Breguet, Cartier, Girard-Perregaux, Panerai, Piaget, TAG Heuer Shreve, Crump & Low 39 Newbury St. Boston 02116 (617) 267-9100 232 Boylston St. Brookline, MA 02467 (800) 225-7088 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Blancpain, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin Tourneau Copley Place Boston 02116 (617) 267-8463

2800 W. Big Beaver Rd. Troy, MI 48084 (248) 649-2000 Brands: Cartier, David Yurman, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Raymond Weil, TAG Heuer MINNESOTA Ben Bridge Mall of America Bloomington, MN 55425 (952) 814-9356 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe Wixon Jewelers 9955 Lyndale Ave. S. Bloomington, MN 55420 (952) 881-8862 Brands: Baume & Mercier, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Parmigiani, Patek Philippe MISSOURI

Burlington Mall Burlington, MA 01803 (781) 272-8463 Brands: Breguet, Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, TAG Heuer, Tudor

T OP R ETA I L E R S

MICHIGAN Darakjian Jewelers 101 Willits St. Birmingham, MI 48009 (888) 843-6659 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Montblanc, Tudor, Ulysse Nardin, Vacheron Constantin Tapper's 27716 Novi Rd. Novi, MI 48377 (248) 465-1800 6337 Orchard Lake Rd. West Bloomfield, MI 48322 (248) 932-7700

Clarkson Jewelers Clarkson/Clayton Shopping Center Ellisville, MO 63011 (636) 227-2006 Brands: Carl F. Bucherer, Patek Philippe, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Tissot, Tudor Tivol 220 Nicols Rd. Kansas City, MO 64112 (816) 531-5800 Brands: Cartier, David Yurman, Panerai, Patek Philippe, TAG Heuer, Tudor

Ben Bridge 1300 W. Sunset Rd. Henderson, NV 89014 (702) 456-8807 Brands: TAG Heuer, Tissot, Victorinox Swiss Army 3200 S. Las Vegas Blvd.

Las Vegas 89109 (702) 733-0003 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Breitling, Cartier, TAG Heuer, Tissot, Tudor Horologio Fine Watches 3377 S. Las Vegas Blvd.

Las Vegas 89109 (702) 733-0016 Brands: Bell & Ross, Blancpain, Franck Muller, Girard-Perregaux, JeanRichard, TAG Heuer Roman Times Jewelers 3500 Las Vegas Blvd.

Las Vegas 89109 (702) 733-8687 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bulgari, Chopard, Franck Muller, IWC, Piaget, Roger Dubuis Tourbillon Boutique The Shops at Crystals Las Vegas 89158 (702) 597-0284 Brands: Blancpain, Breguet, Glashütte Original, Jaquet Droz, Omega, Swatch

NEVADA

Tourneau Time Dome The Forum Shops at Caesars Las Vegas 89109 (702) 732-8463 Brands: Bremont, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Tudor, Vacheron Constantin

Bellusso at the Palazzo 3325 Las Vegas Blvd. S. Las Vegas 89109 (702) 650-2988 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, Blancpain, Breguet, Cartier, IWC, Vacheron Constantin

Wynn & Co. Watches Wynn Las Vegas Las Vegas 89109 (702) 770-3520 Brands: Breguet, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Piaget

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NEW JERSEY Hamilton Jewelers 92 Nassau St. Princeton, NJ 08542 (609) 683-4200 Brands: Cartier, Chanel, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, TAG Heuer The Timepiece Collection 58 E. Palisade Ave. Englewood, NJ 07631 (201) 894-1825 Brands: Audemars Piguet, GirardPerregaux, Harry Winston, Hermès, Omega, TAG Heuer Tourbillon Boutique The Mall at Short Hills Short Hills, NJ 07078 (973) 564-5864 Brands: Blancpain, Breguet, Glashütte Original, Jaquet Droz, Omega, Swatch NEW YORK Cellini 509 Madison Ave. New York 10022 (212) 888-0505 Waldorf Astoria 301 Park Ave. New York 10022 (212) 751-9824 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, Bell & Ross, Franck Muller, GirardPerregaux, Greubel Forsey, IWC, JaegerLeCoultre, Piaget, Ulysse Nardin, Vacheron Constantin London Jewelers 2 Main St. East Hampton, NY 11937 (631) 329-3939

47 Main St. Southampton, NY 11968 (631) 287-4499 28 School St. Glen Cove, NY 11542 (516) 671-3154 180 Wheatley Plaza Greenvale, NY 11548 (516) 621-8844 2046 Northern Blvd.

Manhasset, NY 10030 (516) 627-7475 Brands: Franck Muller, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Tudor Tourneau TimeMachine 12 E. 57th St. New York 10022 (212) 758-7300 510 Madison Ave. New York 10022 (212) 758-5830 3 Bryant Park New York 10036 (212) 278-8041 630 Old Country Rd. Garden City, NY 11530 (516) 873-0209 125 Westchester Ave. White Plains, NY 10601 (914) 397-2301 160 Walt Whitman Rd. Huntington Station, NY 11746 (631) 427-2649 Brands: Ball, Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Blancpain, Breguet, Breitling, Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Patek Philippe, Piaget, Tudor, Vacheron Constantin

WA T C H J O U R N A L

Shreve & Co. 640 Southwest Broadway Portland, OR 97205 (971) 295-5555 Brands: Baume & Mercier, IWC, JaegerLeCoultre, Longines, Panerai, Patek Philippe

The Domain 3401 Esperanza Crossing Austin, TX 78758 (512) 491-8014

PENNSYLVANIA

303 Memorial City Mall Houston 77024 (713) 935-9499

Tourneau 13350 N. Dallas Pkwy.

Dallas 75240 (972) 661-1503

1096 Willowbrook Mall Houston 77070 (281) 894-5799

5015 Westheimer Rd. Houston 77056 (713) 871-8282

NORTH CAROLINA

1521 Walnut St. Philadelphia 19102 (215) 546-6505 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Dior, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin

5135 W. Alabama St. Houston 77056 (713) 960-1998 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe

15900 La Cantera Pkwy.

San Antonio 78256 (210) 694-5654 Brands: Ball, Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Bremont, Devon, Hamilton

De Boulle 6821 Preston Rd. Dallas 75205 (214) 552-2400

Zadok Jewelers 1749 Post Oak Blvd.

Houston 77056 (713) 960-8950 Brands: Breguet, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Piaget, TAG Heuer, Vacheron Constantin

Windsor Jewelers 6809-D Phillips Place Court Charlotte, NC 28210 (704) 556-7747 526 S. Stratford Rd. Winston-Salem, NC 27103 (336) 721-1768 Brands: Bell & Ross, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Ulysse Nardin

Govberg Jewelers 65 St. James Place Ardmore, PA 19003 (610) 664-1715

Tourneau 160 N. Gulph Rd. King of Prussia, PA 19406 (610) 491-8801 Brands: Ball, Baume & Mercier, Blancpain, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Tudor

OHIO TENNESSEE Mann Jewelers 26300 Cedar Rd. Beachwood, OH 44122 (216) 831-1119 Brands: Breguet, Jaeger LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe

Ben Bridge 9508 S.W. Washington Square Rd. Portland, OR 97223 (503) 603-1285 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe

TEXAS Bachendorf's 8400 Preston Rd. Dallas 75225 (214) 692-8400 Brands: Chanel, Chopard, IWC, Montblanc, Omega, TAG Heuer Ben Bridge Barton Creek Square Mall Austin, TX 78746 (512) 329-9066

4444 Westheimer Houston 77027 (713) 621-2400 Brands: Bell & Ross, Blancpain, GirardPerregaux, Greubel Forsey, Rolex, Patek Philippe Eiseman Jewels 8687 N. Central Expressway Dallas 75225 (214) 369-6100 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Hermès, JaegerLeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin Tourbillon Boutique 8687 N. Central Expressway Dallas 75225 (214) 346-3431

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WASHINGTON Ben Bridge 143 Bellevue Square Bellevue, WA 98004 (425) 454-9927 1432 4th Ave. Seattle 98101 (206) 628-6800 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe Tourbillon Boutique Fairmont Olympic Hotel Seattle 98101 (206) 442-9300 Brands: Blancpain, Breguet, Glashütte Original, Jaquet Droz, Omega, Swatch

VIRGINIA Liljenquist & Beckstead Jewelers Tysons Galleria McLean, VA 22102 (703) 448-6731 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, Breguet, Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe Tourneau Fashion Centre at Pentagon City Arlington, VA 22202 (703) 414-8463 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Cartier, IWC, Rolex, TAG Heuer

T OP R ETA I L E R S

OREGON

King Jewelers 4121 Hillsboro Pike Nashville, TN 37215 (615) 724-5464 Brands: Bell & Ross, Chopard, Hublot, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Montblanc

7040 N. Mesa St. El Paso, TX 79912 (915) 584-4700

The Galleria 5085 Westheimer Rd. Houston 77056 (713) 850-1056 Brands: Blancpain, Breguet, Glashütte Original, Jaquet Droz, Omega, Swatch

THE LIST

Wempe 700 Fifth Ave. New York 10019 (212) 397-9000 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Breguet, Breitling, Cartier, Chopard, Glashütte Original, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Longines, Montblanc, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Roger Dubuis, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Vacheron Constantin

JAMIE GOODMAN

HUMOR

WA T C H J O U R N A L

“What do you mean you don’t do watch repairs?”

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BR-X1 THE HYPERSONIC CHRONOGRAPH The BR-X1 is the perfect synthesis of Bell & Ross’s expertise in the world of aviation watches and master watchmaking: an instrument with an innovative design, produced in a limited edition of only 250 pieces. Lightweight and resistant, the Carbone Forgé® case of the BR-X1 is protected by a high-tech ceramic bezel with a rubber strap. Ergonomic and innovative, the push buttons allow the chronograph functions to be used easily and efficiently. Sophisticated and reliable, the skeleton chronograph movement of the BR-X1 is truly exceptional and combines haute horlogerie finishes with extreme lightness.

Ref. BR-X1 Skeleton Chronograph - Carbone Forgé® | Bell & Ross Inc. +1.888.307.7887 | e-Boutique: www.bellross.com

Breguet, the innovator.

Tradition Chronographe Indépendant 7077

The Tradition Chronographe Indépendant 7077 perpetuates the creative heritage of Breguet by interpreting it in a contemporary and innovative way. It is comprised of two entirely independent gear trains. The first, set to a frequency of 5Hz to enhance precision measurement, is devoted to the chronograph, while the second, operating at 3 Hz, is dedicated to the hours and minutes. History is still being written...

BREGUET BOUTIQUES – NEW YORK 646 692-6469 – BEVERLY HILLS BAL HARBOUR

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