Volume 18, N 4
All That’s Good in Time
May 2015
Watch Journal Featuring: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept RD#1
The Design Issue
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$10 USD
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Also: The Future of Watch Design. Diamonds: How to Choose Like an Expert. The History of Creating Timepieces for Women. Top Design Watches. A Legendary American Purveyor.
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One adjustment every 100 years. the kind Of cOmplicatiOn that makes life easier.
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Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel. Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 985. the mechanical programming of the perpetual calendar means this watch will not require any adjustment until the next turn of the century! to ensure its accuracy, jaeger-lecoultre has equipped this model with a flying tourbillon featuring a cylindrical balance-spring. a feat achieved thanks to the 180 skills united within the manufacture. the oscillating weight is finely engraved with a gold medal received in 1889 – a symbol of the pioneering spirit that has been driving jaeger-lecoultre since 1833.
yOu deserve a real Watch.
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(10241 )
UNIQUE OBJECTS OF TIME® FOR LOVERS OF FINE TIMEPIECES - FOR THE ARTISTIC ENCHANCEMENT OF AN EXCLUSIVE LIVING AMBIENCE ® UNIQUE OBJECTS OF TIME®UNIQUE FOR LOVERS OF FINE TIMEPIECES - FOR THE ARTISTIC ENCHANCEMENT AN EXCLUSIVE LIVING AMBIENCE OBJECTS OF TIME FOR LOVERS OF FINE TIMEPIECES - FOR THE OF ARTISTIC ENCHANCEMENT OF AN EXCLUSIVE LIVING AMBIENCE
MIRAGE
Watch Journal Magazine, May 2015
UNIQUE OBJECTS OF TIME® FOR LOVERS OF FINE TIMEPIECES - FOR THE ARTISTIC ENCHANCEMENT OF AN EXCLUSIVE LIVING AMBIENCE
· 22 TIME MOVER® (8 of them in the safe) · German high-security safe · Fine Timepiece with German 8-day springdriven movement · Storage drawer for jewellery and watches · Viewing window made of two-way mirror spy glas · State-of-the-art LED lighting · Integrated thermometer and hygrometer displays · Swiss security lock · Height-adjustable stainless steel feet on a pedes · Optional German HiFi system with Bluetooth and iPhone/iPod docking station · Finest German craftsmanship Fin
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TOKIO - GINZA TOKIO - GINZA 01.45 P.M. 01.45 P.M.
TOKIO - GINZA 01.45 P.M.
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r jewellery and watches made of two-way mirror spy glass D lighting meter and hygrometer displays k stainless steel feet on a pedestal HiFi system with one/iPod docking station ftsmanship
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MIRAGE
MIRAGE
· 22 TIME MOVER® (8 of them ·in22 the safe) TIME MOVER® (8 of them in the safe) · German high-security safe · German high-security safe · Fine Timepiece with German ·8-day spring- with German 8-day springFine Timepiece driven movement driven movement · Storage drawer for jewellery ·and watches Storage drawer for jewellery and watches MIRAGE · Viewing window made of two-way mirror spy glass · Viewing window made of two-way mirror spy glass · State-of-the-art LED lighting · State-of-the-art LED lighting · Integrated thermometer and·hygrometer displays hygrometer displays them in the safe) ·Integrated 22 TIMEthermometer MOVER®and (8 of · Swiss security lock · Swiss security lock · German high-security safe · Height-adjustable stainless steel feet on a pedestal · Height-adjustable stainless steel feet on a pedestal Fine Timepiece with German 8-day spring· Optional German HiFi system· ·Optional with German HiFi system with Bluetooth and iPhone/iPod docking station Bluetooth and iPhone/iPod docking station driven movement Fin · Finest German craftsmanship Fin · Finest German craftsmanship
· Storage drawer for jewellery and watches · Viewing window made of two-way mirror spy glass · State-of-the-art LED lighting · Integrated thermometer and hygrometer displays · Swiss security lock · Height-adjustable stainless steel feet on a pedestal · Optional German HiFi system with Bluetooth and iPhone/iPod docking station · Finest German craftsmanship Fin
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United States and Canada - FitzHenry Consulting at (561) 212-6812 International - Louis Moinet, Switzerland at +41 32 753 68 14, info@louismoinet.com
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www.louismoinet.com 184_ADS.indd 7
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TO BREAK THE RULES, YOU MUST FIRST MASTER THEM. THE VALLﾃ右 DE JOUX. FOR MILLENNIA A HARSH, UNYIELDING ENVIRONMENT; AND SINCE 1875 THE HOME OF AUDEMARS PIGUET, IN THE VILLAGE OF LE B R A S S U S . THE EA RLY WATC H MAKERS WERE SHAPED HERE, IN AWE OF THE FORCE OF NATURE YET DRIVEN TO MASTER ITS MYSTERIES THROUGH THE COMPLEX MECHANICS OF THEIR CRAFT. STILL TODAY THIS PIONEERING SPIRIT INSPIRES US TO CONSTANTLY CHALLENGE THE CONVENTIONS OF FINE WATCHMAKING.
ROYAL OAK CHRONOGRAPH IN PINK GOLD.
AUDEMARS PIGUET BOUTIQUES. 646.375.0807 NEW YORK: 65 EAST 57TH STREET, NY. 888.214.6858 BAL HARBOUR: BAL HARBOUR SHOPS, FL. 866.595.9700 AUDEMARSPIGUET.COM
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WA T C H J O U R N A L
Contents DEPARTMENTS
CONTENTS
14 Masthead 16 Editor’s Letter 18 Publisher’s Letter 20 Chart 22 Intelligence 42 Happenings 54 Profile Fawaz Gruosi, Felix Baumgartner, Richard Paige
VO L U M E 18 , N
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62 Collector Tommy Hilfiger, Ian Callum, Marc Conselman 68 Play Le Baron, Shanghai 69 Stay The Norman, Tel Aviv 70 Getaway The Villa Collection, Mustique 72 Necessities
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www.vacheron-constantin.com
PERPETUAL CALENDAR
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WA T C H J O U R N A L
Contents FEATURES
CONTENTS
88 Audemars Piguet A New Concept Watch Sets a New Bar for Acoustics. 96 To Infinity and Beyond Talking the Future of Watch Design With Today’s Pioneers. 102 Ladies First A Century of Women’s Watch Design 108 Style Supernatural: Iconic Watch Designs 118 Substance A Space Rock on Your Wrist. 122 Manufacture Diamonds are a Watch’s Best Friend.
VO L U M E 18 , N
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130 Legacy American History: Tiffany & Co. 135 Guide Top Retailers In The Country, Watch Terminology, Horological Humor.
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IWC PortugIeser. the legend among ICons.
Portugieser Annual Calendar. Ref. 5035:
status can be seen in the annual calendar, where
It took Portugal’s ocean-going heroes centuries to become legends; IWC’s Por tugieser took just
the month, date and day can be read of f at a glance. i wc . e n g i n e e r e d fo r m e n .
75 years. For it is that long since the appearance of the first IWC Portugieser with a pocket watch movement marked the beginning of a new legendary era. And that revolutionary step forward is still mirrored today in the IWC-manufactured 52850 calibre. The fact that innovative new technology no longer needs an eternity to achieve legendary
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Mechanical movement, Pellaton automatic winding, IWC-manufactured 52850 calibre, 7-day power reserve, Power reserve display, Annual calendar with displays for the month, date and day, Sapphire glass, See-through sapphire-glass back, Water-resistant 3 bar, Diameter 44.2 mm
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WA T C H J O U R N A L
Watch Journal Chief Executive Officer Marc Lotenberg SALES AND MARKETING
EDITORIAL
Publisher John Clarkin
Editor in Chief Hyla Bauer
Advertising Directors Adriana Gelves Laurel Nuzzo
Creative Direction NoĂŤ & Associates International Editor Keith W. Strandberg
MASTHEAD
Marketing Manager Hayley Merrill Events Coordinator Simon Swig
Assistant Editors Roxy Kirshenbaum Hally Wolhandler
OPERATIONS
Editorial Coordinator Kay Hodgdon
Controller Miles Bingham
Contributing Writer Carol Besler
Executive Coordinator Laurie Sadove
Editor at Large Spencer Bailey
WATCH JOURNAL LLC
Contributing Editor Justin Min
Board of Directors Adam Sandow & Eric Crown
Digital Imaging Chelsie Craig
Chief Executive Officer Marc Lotenberg
Editorial Interns ZoĂŤ Bodzas Julia Lu Emily Manchester Christopher Malone Max Rovo
ADVERTISING & EDITORIAL OFFICE Watch Journal, LLC 601 W. 26th Street, Suite 1507 New York, NY 10001 info@watchjournal.com
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Founding Publisher Glen B. Bowen VO L U M E 18 , N
ONLINE #watchjournal www.watchjournal.com Twitter: @watchjournal Instagram: @watchjournal Facebook: facebook.com/watchjournal SUBSCRIPTIONS To subscribe, visit us online at: watchjournal.com/subscribe One-Year Print and Digital: US: $60 / International: $110 Single issue shipped: US: $15 / International: $30 Digital Only: iPad: $14.99, Digital back issues: $6.99 ISSN N 2325-4130 Watch Journal publishes nine issues a year. Watch Journal is a registered trademark of Watch Journal, LLC. Copyright 2014, Watch Journal. All rights reserved. Reproduction or transmission in whole or in part in any form or by any means without written permission is prohibited. Opinions expressed in Watch Journal are not necessarily those of the publisher. Watch Journal, its affiliates, employees, contributors, writers, editors and publisher accept no responsibility for inaccuracies, errors or omissions in the information and/or advertisement contained herein. The publisher assumes no responsibility for the claims made by advertisers or the merits of products or services advertised or promoted in Watch Journal. The publisher makes no representations or warranties of any kind, expressed or implied, as to the information, services, contents, trademarks, patents, materials or products included in this magazine. Advertisers and their agencies assume all liability for advertising content. All images reproduced in Watch Journal have been accepted by the publisher on the condition that such images are reproduced with the knowledge and prior consent of the photographer and/or other creator and the subject. As such, the publisher is not responsible for any infringement of the copyright or otherwise arising from any publication in Watch Journal. Printed in the USA. To subscribe, visit us online at watchjournal.com/subscribe. Email: subscriptions@watchjournal.com.
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WA T C H J O U R N A L
Editor’s Letter
Design for All Time
EDITOR’S LET TER
Since the First Cave Drawings, Humans have Pursued Accurate Timekeeping. During planning discussions about the subject of this issue, focused on watch design, the history of the methods of timekeeping and the recording of time were logical starting points for the conversation. As we further refined the story ideas, my thoughts traveled to design as a larger subject, and how design surrounds us in every aspect of our daily lives. For better or worse, our coffee cups are designed, our clothes are designed, our cars are designed, our smartphones and apps are designed. The first designs came from nature. From the first ribozymes containing the basics of RNA as we know it today, mother nature has had her own ideas for the design of living creatures. Fossils of trilobites dating from 500 million years ago grace the pages in our photographic essay, “Supernatural”. A present-day living creature, the common corn snake, his skin ‘s pattern also a product of nature’s design, makes an appearance in the “Supernatural” pages. Timekeeping has made monumental advances since the early days of homo sapiens. Early humans kept track of days with simple marks on a cave wall in the Paleolithic period, The Mayan Long Count calendar system prevailed in pre-Columbian Mesomerica. Chinese water clocks were created and refined in the years of 200—1300 AD. Today, we have globally consistent calendars and clocks, and our time is marked much more accurately, in much smaller increments, using much smaller and more precise instruments. In the feature “Ladies First”, we explore the last century of timepiece design for women. You’ve come a long way, baby. What will the future hold for timepiece design? We’ve asked the maverick brain trusts in the field: Keith Strandberg explored the subject with forwardthinking, cutting-edge watch designers. In his piece “Back to the Future” they offer their predictions and educated opinions. There’s no doubt that mechanical watches will continue to be refined to be more precise, giving us timing to 100th of a second and less, accuracy to less than a few seconds per week, perpetual calendars accurate to beyond 100 years, with longer power reserves to keep it all going. Design innovation will continue to thrive as long as humans stay curious and hold a desire to create a better future. Here’s to your future, dear reader! Live long and prosper.
H Y L A B AU E R
— Hyla Bauer Editor in Chief
“Timekeeping has made monumental advances since the early days of homo sapiens. Today, we have globally consistent calendars and clocks, and our time is marked much more accurately, in much smaller increments.” 16
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www.dior.com - 1-866-675-2078
DIOR VIII GRAND BAL “PLISSÉ SOLEIL” 36MM. STEEL, DIAMONDS AND MOTHER-OF-PEARL. EXCLUSIVE “DIOR INVERSÉ 11 1/2” AUTOMATIC CALIBRE, 42-HOUR POWER RESERVE. LIMITED EDITION OF 888 PIECES.
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WA T C H J O U R N A L
Founding Publisher’s Letter
Calling All Luxury Consumers
GL EN B . B OW EN
PUBLISHER’S LET TER
Changing with the Times: Executives Nimbly Navigate the Worldwide Shifts in Demand for Luxury Timepieces In 2014, watch executives faced receding tides of demand from Hong Kong to Mainland China, largely due to laws prohibiting high-end gift giving and outright bans on advertising luxury goods. Meanwhile, Russians stayed home and were not buying internationally at previous levels. Sales in Japan and the United States grew at a slower rate than predicted, reaching far below their potential levels. Already anchored in troubled waters, the Swiss Franc’s value became a tidal wave against all other currencies. Despite these challenges, the majority of luxury watch brands remain optimistic for the remainder of 2015, and have crafted strategies to weather the passing economic storm. 95 percent of Swiss luxury timepieces are exported from Switzerland. Brand executives have identified their most important growth markets and have grand plans for optimal ways to compete for new customers in highly competitive markets. During the past several years, many have tried surfing the Internet for potential buyers. Some were cautious, yet some went headlong into social media such as blogs and forums. Unfortunately, too many executives and agencies turned their focus to digital marketing as the new panacea for increased sales. Many brand executives needed to realize that wealthy consumers have been relentlessly pursued in the digital arena through Facebook, email marketing, and the like to the point of exhaustion. Top luxury consumers are drowning in a sea of digital information delivering cleverly programmed communication through mathematical logarithms. Potential watch buyers have become numb to this constant bombardment and are opting out, unsubscribing, going off line and seeking ways of getting off the Internet of Everything. Savvy executives understand that optimization of their sales channels is the number one priority because luxury purchases are just as much about the experience as they are about the acquisition. The act of buying luxury products is a personal experience, a one-on-one engagement, and usually requires ongoing conversations with clients. It is this kind of partnerships with brands that leads to the acquisition of must-have luxury products. This engagement is more of a whisper between two people than a shout from a megaphone. For real sales growth, brands must have an educated, well-trained team of in-store sales associates adept at personalizing the luxury buying experience for high-end watch buyers. Empowered by success through legitimate human dialogue, brand executives can and have built stronger relationships with their customers. Bonding with customers on a personal level leads to real partnerships that will drive the luxury buying experience—unlike thousands of impersonal digital messages. Get off line, and make it personal. —Glen B. Bowen Founding Publisher
“The majority of luxury watch brands remain optimistic for the remainder of 2015, and have crafted strategies to weather the passing economic storm.’’ 18
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WA T C H J O U R N A L
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WA T C H J O U R N A L
CHART
World Gold Available Supply 2004—2013
5000
Total Supply ( Tonnes)
4000
3000
2000 2004
2005
2006
2007
2008
2009
2010
2011
2012
2013
SOURCE: Source: GFMS, Thomson Reuters
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WA T C H J O U R N A L
World Gold Price Per Ounce 2004—2013
CHART
2000
Gold Price (London PM, US$/oz)
1500
1000
500
0 2004
2005
2006
2007
2008
2009
2010
2011
2012
2013
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INTELLIGENCE
WA T C H J O U R N A L
ABOVE: The crown of the Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days GMT Oro Rosso
RIGHT: The back of the watch
SPECIAL SKELETONIZATION
There will be only 300 pieces of Officine Panerai’s Radiomir 1940 3 Days GMT Oro Rosso made; if you’re hoping to obtain one, you’d better move fast. The special edition timepiece has a cushion case that’s 47 mm in diameter and is constructed in 5nPt red gold and a small amount of platinum. Surrounding the brown dial is a polished red gold bezel with a satine soleil finish. The treatment allows for the catching of light, which enhances its characteristic minimalist design that includes a dial formed by two superimposed discs. To reveal the impressive finish of the movement, the back of the case is left open. It is a P.3001/10 caliber, hand-wound with a power reserve of three days, with an indicator of the remaining reserve on its back. The two barrels are skeletonized, with one of the springs directly connected to the indicator. The bridges are also skeletonized, and have a brushed finish. Water-resistant to a depth of about 50 meters, the watch comes with a brown alligator strap secured by a red gold buckle. panerai.com 22
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WA T C H J O U R N A L
INTELLIGENCE
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INTELLIGENCE
WA T C H J O U R N A L
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WA T C H J O U R N A L
INTELLIGENCE
A NEW TWIST FOR THE YACHT-MASTER Developed and patented by Rolex, the new Yacht-Master comes in two sizes: 40 mm and 37 mm diameters. The timepiece boasts an Oyster case in 18-karat Everose gold and a 60-minute graduated rotatable bezel, fitted with polished raised numerals on a matte black background. The sporty rubber strap— as opposed to the traditional metal bracelet—provides additional comfort and flexibility and is equipped with a patented longitudinal cushioning system. Water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters, the watch’s fluted caseback and winding crown are constructed with a Triplock triple waterproof feature. A crown guard and crystal made of scratchproof sapphire add to the durability of this water-sports timepiece. In keeping with all Rolex Perpetual movements, the 3135 and 2236 have passed the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute tests, and are certified Swiss chronometers. rolex.com
OPPOSITE AND ABOVE: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master
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WA T C H J O U R N A L TOP: The Clé de Cartier 40 mm
INTELLIGENCE
BOTTOM: The Clé de Cartier 31 mm
A KEY TO HISTORY The new Clé de Cartier collection was formulated around the idea of a perfect circle: The collection is all smooth lines, featuring rounded bezels and tapered horns. “Clé” is the French word for key, and in a Clé timepiece, the crown resembles one—a continuation of Cartier’s history of designing watches with distinctive crowns. The watches feature a new indexed winding mechanism created for ease of use. In addition to its distinctive, soon-to-be-iconic design, the shape of the crown also provides a steady grip for setting the time. The collection also features a new Swiss-made movement, the 1847 MC, named for Cartier’s founding year. The date indicator is semi-instantaneous, and the watches all have a power reserve of 42 hours. The timepieces come in 40 mm case sizes in 18karat white gold or pink-gold versions; a 31 mm edition features brilliant-cut diamonds and a 18-karat pink gold case. cartier.com
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Instrumento N°Uno N E W Y O R K B O U T I Q U E , 8 2 4 M A D I S O N AV E N U E , N E W Y O R K , N Y, ( 2 1 2 ) 4 3 9 - 4 2 2 0 B A L H A R B O U R B O U T I Q U E , 9 7 0 0 C O L L I N S AV E N U E , B A L H A R B O U R , F L , ( 3 0 5 ) 8 6 5 - 8 7 6 5
ABU DHABI
•
BAL HARBOUR
NEW YORK
•
•
COURCHEVEL
PA R I S
•
DUBAI
•
PORTO CERVO
•
•
G E N E VA ROME
•
•
G S TA A D
•
K U WA I T
ST BARTHELEMY
•
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LONDON
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MOSCOW
ST MORITZ
www•degrisogono•com
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WA T C H J O U R N A L
INTELLIGENCE
UNLOCKING TIME The Van Cleef & Arpels Cadenas watch was first designed and created in 1935, and it remains one of the haute joaillerie brand's most iconic and identifying timepieces. The watch name, meaning padlock in French, refers to its distinctive clasp, which gives the timepiece the look of a bracelet—a perfect match of high style and practicality. The original Cadenas is rumored to have been created with Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor, in mind. This year, the brand is releasing a new line of Cadenas watches. The nine-piece collection features enlarged dials and sturdier clasps, which are enforced by two small ceramic beads that provide extra security. Some models are set with white diamonds in both princess and brilliant cuts, and all are powered by low-maintenance quartz movements. vancleefarpels.com
Two versions of the Van Cleef & Arpels Cadenas Sertie watch
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porsche design Timepieces
FIRST IN BLACK. THE NEW ORIGINAL.
Timepiece No. 1 | www.porsche-design.com/timepieces
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WA T C H J O U R N A L
INTELLIGENCE
The Louis Vuitton Escale Minute Repeater Worldtime
ESCALE WORLDTIME MINUTE REPEATER The new Louis Vuitton Escale Repetition Minutes Worldtime watch was designed exclusively for the style-savvy globetrotter. Featuring two elegant complications, the Repetition Minutes and Worldtime, the timepiece includes a pink-gold case and a titanium middle case. With a small trunk containing a rare movement and a case inspired by the history of the brand, the watch fully encompasses the art of travel as interpreted by Louis Vuitton. The Escale Repetition boasts a diameter of 44 mm and is 11.75 mm thick, with a slender bezel that provides optimal legibility of the time in 24 time zones. A sapphire crystal on the back of the timepiece reveals a mechanically manufactured hand-wound caliber that was developed and assembled by watchmakers at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton in Geneva. louisvuitton.com
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For men who don’t need GPS to know where they stand.
It’s our rough edges that testify real character. The Saxon One with its bold, timeless design lends this conviction a new form: elegant, dynamic, distinctive. And created with exactly that perfection which has made the predicate “Made in Glashütte” into a world-famous promise of quality. Saxon One · sweep minute stop chronograph · 6420-04 · US $6,700
MADE FOR THOSE WHO DO.
TO OBTAIN FURTHER INFORMATION IN NORTH AMERICA, PLEASE CONTACT Tutima USA, Inc. • 1-TUTIMA-USA-1 • info@tutimausa.com • www.tutima.com
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Watch Journal - Saxon Bold - May 2015
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REV 4/10/15
INTELLIGENCE
WA T C H J O U R N A L
ABOVE, LEFT TO RIGHT: The Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Cedric Laroche
SPRINGING FORWARD Zenith welcomes a new brand director to America: Cedric Laroche. At his new position in the North American market, Mr. Laroche will be responsible for Zenith’s sales and marketing activities and the brand’s US subsidiary. Laroche has enjoyed years of success in the Zenith family: He has been the Northern Europe brand director since 2012. While at Zenith in his previous position, Laroche played a pivotal role in raising brand awareness and prestige, while significantly increasing business, and is poised to make the same strides in his new home. He earned a master’s degree in marketing management from the EDC Business School in Paris and counts a decade of experience in the luxury watch industry. zenith-watches.com
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CALIBER RM 63-01 DIZZY HANDS
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WA T C H J O U R N A L
INTELLIGENCE
PORSCHE-STYLE ACCELERATION Since 2004, Roland Heiler has been at the helm of the Porsche Design Studio in Zell am See, Austria, and has served as well since 2007 as a member if the management team of Porsche Design Group. Porsche Design are optimistic about the future development of the Design Group and its three branches: Porsche Design, Porsche Driver’s Selection and the Porsche Design Studio. Mr. Heller was pivotal in the development of the brand’s first fully in-house movement, housed in the Timepiece No. 1, a tachymeter chronograph. In true Porsche Design style, the watch’s exterior shows the same level of commitment to aesthetics with its sleek lines and eye-pleasing proportions, not to mention the exceptional materials employed in the construction of the watch. The automatic chronograph has a titanium case with a matte black coating, and will run in a limited edition of 500. porsche-design.com
RIGHT: The Porsche Design Timepiece No. 1 BELOW: Roland Heiler
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Vanguard Collection
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Š2015 - The Franck Muller Group, All rights reserved
212.463.8898 WWW.FRANCKMULLER.COM
15/04/2015 18:08
WA T C H J O U R N A L
INTELLIGENCE
BELOW: Baume et Mercier Clifton 8-Day Power Reserve
DIVINE PROPORTION To celebrate nearly two centuries in the business—185 years, to be exact—Baume et Mercier is releasing a timepiece in a limited edition of 185 watches. The Clifton 8-Day Power Reserve features a 45.5 mm 18-karat red-gold case with a satin finish and domed dial. The watch has a mechanical manualwinding movement with an eight-day power reserve, with a subtle power reserve indicator on the dial that displays the winding level. The watch features a sapphire crystal caseback, revealing a movement equipped with a stop-seconds mechanism for extremely accurate time-setting; the plate is decorated with a circular-grained finish and the bridge is engraved with the Greek letter Phi—the brand’s logo, as well as the emblem of the mathematical golden ratio. baume-et-mercier.com
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Orville Wright taking first flight with brother Wilbur running alongside at Kitty Hawk, North Carolina, 17 December 1903. Image credit: WSU/planepix.com
A feW SeleCt peOple HAve beeN gIveN pArt Of tHe WOrlD’S fIrSt AIrCrAft. preSIDeNtS, AStrONAUtS AND ANyONe WItH A bremONt WrIgHt flyer. the bremont Wright flyer is a tribute to the Wright brothers’ famous aircraft. It’s remarkable to look at. but what makes it even more remarkable is that it features actual material from that very first aircraft. the watch also features another first: our first proprietary movement, the bWC/01. the Wright flyer is available now in a limited edition. but it’s unlikely to be available for long.
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WA T C H J O U R N A L
INTELLIGENCE
IN IT TO WIN IT Phillips has announced its inaugural fine collector’s watch auction, to be held on May 9 and 10 at the Hotel La Reserve, Geneva. The auction will take place over two days, with each day dedicated to a specific genre of fine timepieces. In the past year, Phillips has retained the services of some of the finest watch experts in the world, including Aurel Bacs and Livia Russo, as well as International Strategy Advisor and head of New York, Paul Boutros. May 9 will feature 60 examples of important Rolex Day-Date watches including, those from royal provenance and unique pieces hand-selected by Phillips, in partnership with renowned Rolex scholar Pucci Papaleo. Highlights include a very fine and rare pink gold Day-Date with center seconds, 24 hour two tone dial, rice grain bracelet and original box, and the reference 1831, an extremely heavy and rare platinum piece made for the Shah of Iran. The Day-Date will be celebrating its 60th anniversary in 2016.
May 10 brings an offer of approximately 160 pieces of exceptional rarity and captivating histories. Included in the day’s offerings will be an extremely rare stainless steel Patek Philippe doctor’s single button chronograph wristwatch, one of two ever made. For those seeking a celebrity provenance, a Panerai Mare Nostrum “Slytech” from 1996, created for Sylvester Stallone before Panerai joined the Vendôme Group (now known as Richemont). Notably, all watch photography is taken by Mr. Boutros, offering a collector’s perspective on intricate details of the watches. No retouching is permitted at Phillips, so the photos are accurate depictions of the exact quality and condition of the timepiece. For those not in Geneva on May 9 and 10, the auction can be followed on Phillips’ new microsite phillipswatches.com, and @phillipswatches will be offered across social channels. phillips.com phillipswatches.com
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WA T C H J O U R N A L OPPOSITE:: A rare Patek Philippe Reference 1526 in 18karat yellow gold BELOW: A Panerai Mare Nostrum limited edition Slytech from 1996
INTELLIGENCE
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WA T C H J O U R N A L OPPOSITE: A Rolex reference 3525 in 18-karat yellow gold from 1945
INTELLIGENCE
BELOW: Dial detail of the Rolex reference 3525
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LEFT, TOP TO BOTTOM: Exterior and interior views of the Bryant Park store Kenneth Park Architects partnered with Tourneau to design the interior ABOVE, LEFT TO RIGHT: Gregory Kraff, Peter Nicholson, Laura Petit and Mark Goldberg with Tourneau CEO Ira Melnitsky
TOURNEAU KNOWS BRYANT PARK
On March 16, Tourneau celebrated the opening of its new location adjacent to Bryant Park in New York City as part of the brand’s 115th Anniversary celebration. CEO Ira Melnitsky, SVP of retail Larry Barkley, and Tony Award–winner Jefferson Mays participated in the ceremonial ribbon-cutting among leaders in the watch industry and representatives from neighboring Bryant Park businesses. The 3,300-square-foot space marks the corner of of 42nd Street and Sixth Avenue, which attracts more than 6 million visitors annually. The store houses nearly 20 luxury brands, from Rolex to Glashütte to Cartier to Breitling, as well as Tourneau’s own TNY brand, and its certified pre-owned timepiece collection. Because of the store’s proximity to Broadway, Tourneau celebrates its opening by offering customers who purchase more than $3,000 worth of items two tickets to the show “A Gentleman’s Guide to Love and Murder,” for a limited time. tourneau.com 43
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STRENGTH MEETS BEAUTY TAG Heuer recently announced that company CEO Jean-Claude Biver had added an exciting new face to its roster of ambassadors: model and global It girl Cara Delevingne. In welcoming Delevingne, the brand designed a special edition Carrera timepiece in her honor. The watch features faceted lugs, an easy-to-read dial and a treated black titanium 41 mm case. Rose-gold plated hands and appliqués add a feminine element, and a diamond-studded bezel version is also available. The back of the case is stamped with a lion head, for Leo, Delevingne’s astrological sign. The model’s signature is stamped in rose gold on the inside of the watch strap. The timepiece is water-resistant to 100 meters, living up to the strength of the lion. tagheuer.com
THIS PAGE, TOP TO BOTTOM: Cara Delevingne The entrance to the event OPPOSITE: The TAG Heuer Carrera Cara Delevingne
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GOLDEN YEARS On March 30, the film Woman in Gold, starring Helen Mirren, Ryan Reynolds, and Katie Holmes, premiered at the Museum of Modern Art in New York City. The movie is based upon the true story of Adele BlochBauer’s niece, Maria Altmann, recovers five Gustav Klimt paintings seized by by the Nazis from the Bloch-Bauer family home in Vienna during World War II. The Neue Galerie in New York City has opened an intimate exhibition focusing on Klimt’s work with Adele Bloch-Bauer. A. Lange & Sohne is the sponsor of the restoration of the masterpiece and the sponsor of the exhibition. “Gustav Klimt and Adele Bloch-Bauer: The Woman in Gold”, will be on view until September 7. neuegalerie.org womaningoldmovie.org alange-soehne.com
TOP: The A. Lange & Sohne Saxonia Automatik in 18K rose gold OPPOSITE: Dame Helen Mirren with Klimt's Woman in Gold at the Neue Galerie
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PIAGET CELEBRATES GOLD CUP IN PALM BEACH
HAPPENINGS
In March, Piaget hosted two important events in Palm Beach: the annual Piaget Gold Cup at the International Polo Club and a special introductory party for its new Mediterranean Garden high jewelry collection. Brand CEO Philippe Leopold-Metzger and Piaget North America president Larry Boland, along with James R. Borynack, CEO of Wally Findlay Galleries, hosted an exclusive cocktail party at the Worth Avenue Gallery to showcase its new collection. Attendees included top polo players from the Ellerstina Piaget team, Facundo Pieres, Gonzalo Pieres and Nico Pieres. Helga Piaget and interior designer Geoffrey Bradfield were also in attendance. piaget.com
LEFT: On the field BELOW: Larry Boland and Gonzalo Pieres
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PHILANTHROPIC TENDENCIES On March 10, Miami Heat’s Dwyane Wade, a brand ambassador for Hublot, presented 15 unsuspecting foster children with customized “Black Tie” Heat jerseys for Prom. Wade and Jean-Francois Sberro, managing director of Hublot of America, followed up with Hublot Atelier timepieces for the boys during an on-court presentation at American Airlines Arena, where the Heat played the Cleveland Cavaliers. The boys were first invited to the arena for a VIP tour, which ended in the Heat locker room where Wade appeared in his own Black Tie suit. Wade spoke to the boys on the importance of selfpresentation, and again on March 16 at the game. Calyann Barnett, Wade’s personal stylist, advised the boys on dressing for success with one-on-one fashion advice. hublot.com
Dwyane Wade greets one of the evening's special guests
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GUCCI TIMEPIECES SMARTBAND ANNOUNCEMENT AT BASELWORLD
HAPPENINGS
At the recent Baselworld fair Gucci Timepieces announced its plan to develop a smartband in collaboration with i.am+, created by the musician will.i.am. Moderating the panel discussion was Watch Journal international editor, Keith Strandberg. The partnership aims to create a wearable technology that comes with a personal assistant that embodies the functionality of a smartphone with voice recognition. i.am+ was founded by will.i.am to optimize integrated lifestyles through new media with pop culture insights and research. Gucci has been making watches since the 1970s, and this collaboration embodies what Gucci Timepieces CEO Stéphane Linder and will.i.am have coined “fashionoligy,” or the fusion between fashion and technology. gucciwatches.com iamplus.com Stéphane Linder, will.i.am and Marco Bizzarri
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ABOVE: Omega president Stephen Urquhart LEFT: The Omega Globemaster
A NEW MASTER During March’s Baselworld fair, Omega hosted a private celebration, unveiling the new Globemaster, the world’s first Master Chronometer at the von Bartha art gallery, The watch is the first timepiece to exceed the standards of the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronométres (COSC). It has also passed the certification tests from the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS). Omega worked closely with METAS in late 2014 to master the eight criteria the watch had to pass in order to achieve the title of Master Chronometer. “Now we have finalized that whole process and to make it really meaningful we have a watch that we
decided to launch which will be the flagship of the Omega brand in the future,” Omega president Stephen Urquhart said. Following the presentation of the new Globemaster, guests at the event were able to view exhibits that showcased the full Globemaster collection, the eight criteria that determined its status as Master Chronometer and interactive stations demonstrating the strength of the magnetic fields in objects like cell phones, tablets and cameras. The Globemaster represents the first of a new generation of watches sharing both certifications. omegawatches.com
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THE AMERICAN MAGAZINE OF GLOBAL CONTEMPORARY DESIGN.
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FAWA Z G R U O S I
PROFILE
WATCH JOURNAL
FAWAZ GRUOSI By Hyla Bauer
The Master Jeweler on His Untraditional Approach.
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LEFT: Fawaz Gruosi ABOVE, LEFT TO RIGHT: The de Grisogono Uno Tourbillon N01 in polished 18-karat white gold The de Grisogono Grappoli 208, a women’s watch in white gold set with Briolette-cut tanzanite and brilliantcut white diamonds and blue sapphires
years. One day I said, ‘I can’t do this anymore.’ I was no longer happy with what I was seeing. I had about 16,000 Swiss Francs, which is $60,000 today. I opened a
“Actually when I was young my friends would make fun of me because selling jewelry was not for a man.” —Fawaz Gruosi
little shop and I was selling jewelry that I obtained from other jewelers. I started carrying jewelry and objets d’art. And slowly, slowly, slowly, I came out with drawing the design—I never designed before in my life. You know, I was 43 years old then. It was very difficult because they were
looking at the window and they were saying ‘well, this is crazy, this is too show off, this is for the nouveau riche.’ At the same time I started working with black diamonds, which had never been used before. And I was criticized especially for the black diamonds—I was going to other jewelers, thinking what is this black diamond, and they were saying forget it, this guy is just crazy. He’s cheating people with his terrible dirty diamonds. They say it is bad luck, or whatever. Then I wrote a book about black diamonds because I was frustrated. Because I wanted to defend the black stone. Most of the jewelry stores in this generation had a father, or a grandfather or someone in the family in the business; I had no one in the business. I think it’s a miracle because after five or six years we already had four shops and now we have 16 shops in 21 years. And we are able to put a lot of people in the company. I never thought at all when I started that I would have something like this.”
FAWA Z G R U O S I
“[My career] is like a movie in the sense that I had to start working when I was barely 18 because my girlfriend was pregnant, and we decided to get married. My family told me I was crazy because I was 18, and in Italy no one could get married until the age of 21. So I said if you don’t sign the paper allowing me to be married, I will never see you again. And so I ran around the city to find a job and I saw a jewelry store, looking for a salesperson. They hired me, and that’s how I started. Actually when I was young, my friends would make fun of me because selling jewelry was not for a man. After a few years I went to London and I worked seven years as a manager. And then Harry Winston made me an offer to go to Saudi Arabia as a general manager to represent the brand. 1978 was the boom of oil, and money was coming out from the sky, so my worst day was half a million dollar sales and my best day was 8 million. I left Saudi Arabia, and Bulgari hired me, and they gave me the role of taking care of VIP clients, which I did for seven
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F E L I X B AU M G A RT N E R
PROFILE
WATCH JOURNAL
FELIX BAUMGARTNER By Keith W. Strandberg
Beat the Speed of Sound in a Free Fall to Earth.
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WATCH JOURNAL LEFT: Felix Baumgartner RIGHT: Baumgartner about to jump BELOW, TOP TO BOTTOM: The Zenith El Primero Sport The Zenith Elite 6150
PROFILE
look for quantity, but for one-of-a-kind pieces. I definitely choose the quality and the perfect match with my taste and my personality. “I feel like watches and the human body have a lot in common—they are complicated mechanisms, but once you learn how to use them and how to take care of them, they will give you exactly what you need,” he says. Baumgartner has had some incredible experiences in his life, but the Red Bull Stratos project was his favorite. “I was the first man on this planet beating the speed of sound in free fall, without any machinery,” he says. “It is not just a great personal achievement, but
“I have a different relationship with fear; we are kind of buddies and fear helps me stay alive.” —Felix Baumgartner also a great scientific opportunity to study all the aspects of a human body during such an experience. “All the data collected by the scientists is going toward finding the best ways to survive in emergency escapes for astronauts.” Baumgartner is getting used to the spotlight, but he still prefers the quiet of his home: Switzerland. “I live in many places—I travel a lot, I work everywhere on this planet, but I will always live in quiet places,” he says. “At the end of the day, after all the attention and excited crowds, I need some silence, with awesome landscapes.”
F E L I X B AU M G A RT N E R
In 2012, Felix Baumgartner jumped out of a space capsule and free fell to earth a record-breaking 127,852 feet. The only thing between himself and certain death was a thin parachute. Baumgartner is an ambassador for Zenith timepieces, and wore a special-edition Stratos chronograph during his freefall. “I’ve always done whatever I’ve wanted and makes me happy—like base jumping, sky diving, driving rally cars, having fun with the electric scooter and enjoying the simple things in everyday life,” Baumgartner says. “Right now I’m more into becoming a rescue helicopter pilot, competing in some cool rally races and working around the world for the brands associated with my image and for my fans.” Challenge drives Baumgartner, and it is the reason he partnered with Zenith. “The idea of being the first in the world or the best in something is on a lot of people’s minds, but not everyone is committed to following their dreams,” he says. “I am. I’ve never stopped dreaming since I was a child. I’ve put hard work and courage into everything, but also I have dared to push my limits.” Baumgartner isn’t immune to fear, though. “You can’t risk your life in any attempt without knowing the whole picture of the dangers,” he says. “I am a human being, so fear is always there, with joy, excitement, sadness or love. I have a different relationship with fear; we are kind of buddies and fear helps me stay alive. My biggest fear so far was about my limits during the training for Stratos jump—I was afraid that I would never get rid of that claustrophobic feeling in that suit and capsule, because I was used to wearing jeans and a T-shirt while flying or jumping.” Baumgartner is a big fan of watches in general and Zenith in particular. “I don’t
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R I C H A R D PA I G E
PROFILE
WATCH JOURNAL
RICHARD PAIGE By Keith W. Strandberg
The Fourth Generation Watchmaker Keeps on Ticking.
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WATCH JOURNAL LEFT: Richard Paige RIGHT: The Rpaige Wrocket Carousel
PROFILE
After selling TimeZone to Ashford.com, Paige decided to move to Hawaii permanently. He retired from the watch and Internet worlds and began doing real-estate development. But like many watch people, timepieces still had their hooks in Paige. “It wasn’t until two years ago that I decided
“I was an early adopter of personal computers, and as the technology evolved, the next big thing was the Internet.” —Richard Paige
that I would resurrect a watch design concept that I came up with in the late 1980s. I had created a wristwatch from an old gold pocket watch. I loved the watch, but everyone who saw me wearing it poked fun at the size of it, which was around 44 mm, now considered a normal size for a wristwatch, so I felt that the time was right to manufacture my own watch.”
Paige had already developed five other limited edition watches for TimeZone. “They all sold out,” he says. “My only concern was I couldn’t bear to use a common movement. This eliminated most of the movements from ETA, and since the great watch houses don’t sell their movements to other manufacturers, I was forced to look elsewhere. Where could I get a top tier movement that was obtainable and worthy? The answer came to me: The greatest production movements of all time come from vintage American pocket watches,” he says. So, Paige hired a team of cousins, also fourth-generation watchmakers, who rework and refurbish the vintage movements. His Rpaige watches range in price from $2,800 to $3,500, including unique pieces and very limited edition series. Paige sells them on rpaigewatches.com, and he recently opened up a retail store in Honolulu, which carries Rpaige watches as well as other brands. Paige also does bespoke work, such as taking a pocket watch movement a customer has and reworking it into a new watch. “I love to work with a client who wants me to create a watch that is unique to them—a collaboration of designer and wearer,” he says.
R I C H A R D PA I G E
Richard Paige knows watches: The former owner of TimeZone.com is also a fourthgeneration watchmaker. “My dad decided when I was 12 that it was a good time to learn about watchmaking,” he says. “He taught me to fix most kinds of mechanical watches, and by the age of 16, I was doing most of his repair work.” Nearly 40 years later, Paige still loves timepieces. “I love the idea that you can have a miniature machine on your wrist, and yet it’s still, visually, a piece of masculine jewelry,” he explains. Paige opened his own watch repair shop in Mill Valley California after graduating from college, then opened an antique watch and jewelry store, growing his business to several stores in the San Francisco Bay Area and Hawaii. The proximity to Silicon Valley inspired him to start working online. “I was an early adopter of personal computers, and as the technology evolved, the next big thing was the Internet,” he remembers. “I discovered TimeZone.com in 1997, and at the time, it was a blog only, based in Singapore. I bought the domain name in 1997, and then began the process of changing the direction and content of the site. I added brand-centric forums, an online watch repair school, articles by myself and other journalists, an encyclopedia of watch definitions, reviews of watches, limited edition watches sold through TimeZone and most of all—entertainment.”
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The Rolex Yachemasted Perpetual
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TOMMY HILFIGER
COLLECTOR
TOMMY HILFIGER Fashion Designer, Founder of Tommy Hilfiger Corporation
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WATCH JOURNAL OPPOSITE: Tommy Hilfiger courtesy Richard Phibbs RIGHT: The Rolex Daytona A trio of Tommy Hilfiger Blue Marine watches, introduced at Baselworld 2015 BELOW: A look from the Tommy Hilfiger fall 2015 collection
COLLECTOR TOMMY HILFIGER
The name Tommy Hilfiger has been synonymous with American sportswear since he launched his brand in 1985. He began his career at the age of 18, going to New York City from his hometown of Elmira, NY, to buy jeans and pants that he then customized and resold at a hometown store. Hilfiger then opened his own store, called the People’s Place, in Elmira, where he started to design clothing. In 1995 he was named Menswear Designer of the Year by the Council of Fashion Designers of America. “Since I founded my company in 1985, it has grown into a global lifestyle brand with over 1,400 stores worldwide,” Hilfiger says. “Our success has come from staying true to our vision of classic American cool, combined with hard work and determination. It’s important to never stop believing in yourself.” As a child, jewelry and watches surrounded Hilfiger. “My father was a watchmaker and jewelry repairman, so my siblings and I grew up learning about watches,” he recalls. “I was always fascinated by the mechanisms and rotors, and how all the small elements came together to make a watch tick.” “Our brand has always been rooted in innovation, and we see every new collection as an opportunity to create products that excite our consumers and exceed their expectations,” Hilfiger says. “When designing watches, we always look for the latest developments in materials, styles and fits, then elevate the pieces with details that reflect our classic American cool DNA. I look forward to the challenge of bringing something fresh to our customers each season.” The first watch that Hilfiger bought with his own money was a Timex. “When I was young I got my first job mowing lawns in our neighborhood,” he says. “I loved earning my own money and being able to buy what I wanted, including that first Timex. Today, I am wearing a stainless steel Tommy Hilfiger watch with a blue dial, one of my go-to watches for every day. For a daytime look, I like something with a brown or black leather strap; for evening events I like styles that are sleek. I prefer leather straps or metal bracelets for day-to-day, and rubber for when we’re doing something more sporty; my family and I love to sail in summer and ski in winter. The one vintage watch I wish I had is a Rolex Daytona.” Hilfiger feels fortunate to be where he is and looks forward to every day. “My family is my biggest joy, my inspiration and the best thing in my life,” he says. “The biggest priority in my life is spending time with my family. My days are very hectic, but I always plan my schedule around maximizing my time with my wife and children. I’m also lucky to love my job.” —As told to Keith W. Strandberg tommy.com
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IAN CALLUM
COLLECTOR
IAN CALLUM Design Director, Jaguar Cars
“For Jaguar, what I am looking for is visual drama that other cars don’t have. I am looking to use the shape of the car to its maximum effect.” 64
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about detail, depth and clarity. Design to me has to have a sense of clarity. When you look at the dial of a car or a watch, you see the big picture, you understand the story and then you look at the layers and the details.” That doesn’t mean the Bremont project didn’t present new challenges. “We were capturing and replicating something from the past, very deliberately,” he says. “In some ways it’s a story that’s already been told. All we are doing is reflecting that story.” He adds that, “Part of my job is to determine what is more important than others. If the objective of the watch was to make it a glamorous piece of dress wear and have a lot of detail, it would have been very different than the watch we did.” As the gatekeeper of Jaguar design, Callum is very clear about what he has to achieve. “For Jaguar, what I am looking for is visual drama that other cars don’t have,” he says. “I am looking to use the shape of the car to its maximum effect. We put as much form and shape across the width of the car as we have across the length of the car. We really push every millimeter we can to make it effective and I think we push it a little more than others. It’s all about the proportions. Quite frequently, we come up with something that I think is great, but it’s not a Jaguar.” —As told to Keith W. Strandberg jaguar.com bremont.com
OPPOSITE: Ian Callum ABOVE: Three views of the Bremont Jaguar MKI
IAN CALLUM
At the age of 14, Ian Callum saw the Jaguar XJ6 and sent some design sketches to the brand’s then chief engineer Bill Haynes. Haynes encouraged the young man to continue his endeavors, and the rest is history. At a recent event hosted by Bremont I sat down with Callum, who has been working with the timepiece brand on Jaguar watches. “Like any design, watch design is all about detail,” Callum says. “I’ve never been a great watch collector—I love buying watches because I like the look of them, the design and the articulation. I have never bought watches because of the brand. “For men, watches are a form of jewelry, and I think they say something about you as a person,” he continues. “Some people can get quite intrigued by brands, but I am intrigued by the designs that people decide to put on their wrists.” Callum’s preferred aesthetic for watches is simple and mechanical. “I like minimalist watches,” he says. “and watches that are very slim as well. I also love the mechanics. That’s also why I love older cars, because they are much more purely mechanical.” Watches are a natural progression for Callum because he and his team design every bit of the car, including the gauges. “We design a lot of digital stuff, a lot of analog graphics for our cars—the rev counters, the speedometers and more—so we are used to doing these graphics,” he explains. “We like them to be like jewels and artistic. It’s
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MARC CONSELMAN
COLLECTOR
MARC CONSELMAN Owner and CEO, Texas Boot Company
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business and that's kind of what we have done here in our little town of Bastrop, Texas. Watches and boots are not so dissimilar, as they both help their owners display personality and character. We even have people who collect boots. One of my great memories of my childhood is going to my uncle’s boot stores and smelling the leather and seeing the exotic boots. Now that I am designing boots, I have an extreme appreciation for how they are made, and what they represent. It’s nostalgia and respect for a different time. In addition to that, boots are just cool. My favorite boot is the Nile Crocodile boot that we designed. I like anything that we design that sells really well, but it’s more than money, it’s the recognition that we created something that others appreciate. We really value the customer experience. I like the ‘Wow’ effect. We love it when people come to our store and tell us that they can find things here that they can’t find anywhere else. I wear my favorite boots three times a week. At the next milestone, I am looking for another watch. I will look for something that is more unique. I was very impressed with my trip to IWC, so that brand is definitely on my radar for my next purchase.” —As told to Keith W. Strandberg texasbootcompany.com
OPPOSITE: Marc Conselman ABOVE: LEFT TO RIGHT The Breitling Jet Team American Tour Chronomat 44 The IWC Portugieser Chronograph in stainless steel The Seiko Prospex Solar Chronograph Flight Computer
MARC CONSELMAN
“For me, watches are about what they represent. I like the feel of the watch on my arm, and I am reminded of the sentiment I felt when I got it. We have a tradition in my family that watches are given as gifts for life milestones. My wife gave me a watch for our very first Christmas together, a Breitling Aerospace, so that sentiment is tangible. The further along the road I get as a CEO of a company, there are so many things I still want to do, and I realize that the most precious resource is time. A watch reminds me that we don’t have an infinite amount of time. The tradition in my family was that my grandparents gave each of their grandchildren watches for school graduation, and I received a Seiko at mine. I am not a collector, but the watches that I do have are meaningful and mark special occasions, and therefore hold great sentiment. Watches indirectly helped me found my business, the Texas Boot Company. As a graduate business student, I had the great fortune to go to Schaffhausen, Switzerland, to visit the International Watch Company as part of a tour of European businesses that our program offered. On that trip, I was inspired to follow my entrepreneurial dreams, and was very impressed with the quality of the IWC craftsmen. I was struck by the fact that if you made a quality product, you did not have to be in a big city—you could create your own reputation, and folks would find you. I thought of that trip often when I was charting the
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WA T C H J O U R N A L
LE BARON SHANGHAI A seductive club designed by Storeage Amsterdam and artist André Saraiva.
For the latest addition to the global chain of Le Baron nightclubs—the first opened in Paris in 2004—design firm Storeage Amsterdam collaborated with French graffiti artist André Saraiva (an owner of the club) to create a Shanghai location in an old office building in the city’s French Concession neighborhood. The design for the space was inspired by the close quarters of a French apartment, as well as Saraiva’s artwork and the rich sensuality of the pairing of red and black. Storeage used a series of designs by Saraiva as a starting point, interpreting the artist’s drawings onto floor and wall coverings for the club in red, purple and black, and referencing not only the artist but the playful aesthetic of the 1980s Memphis Group. Three diamond-shaped infinity mirrors reflect the design of Le Baron’s many locations, and furniture is arranged so that guests will run into each other—thus forcing them to meet. Leather and velvet combine to make Le Baron an undeniably sensual atmosphere, with a seductive vibe that is only enhanced by the sly placement of furniture. lebaronshanghai.com
Photos by Colin Jones, Shenzhen
P L AY
By Max Rovo
BELOW AND RIGHT: Views of the new Le Baron in Shanghai
LE BARON SHANGHAI
LE BARON 20 Donghu Lu 7/F Shanghai 200040
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WA T C H J O U R N A L RIGHT: An outdoor dining space at The Norman BELOW: A suite at the hotel THE NORMAN Nachmani Street 23-25 Tel Aviv, Israel
Photos courtesy The Norman
S T AY
A Worldly Hotel that Centers on Tel Aviv. By Julia Lu
With summer on the way and adventures in the works, travelers destined for Tel Aviv will find sophisticated grandeur at The Norman. Located by Rothschild Boulevard in the historic city, the hotel was converted from two buildings from the 1920s and pristinely restored by Yoav Messer Architects with interior design by David d’Almada of firm Sagrada. D’Almada decorated the hotel to mimic an art gallery, with original Israeli oil paintings, unique sculptures and one-of-a-kind prints throughout the public spaces and in guest rooms and suites. A resident curator is available to offer insight into the pieces around the hotel; the curator also leads bespoke tours of local galleries and artists’ studios. In addition to two restaurants (one serving Mediterranean fare and the other Japanese tapas), The Norman has the Library Bar, a quintessential hotel bar that is styled like an English lounge, and the Conservatory, a private
lounge overlooking an atrium that is exclusively available to hotel guests. A wellness center features a state-of-the-art fitness room as well as a spa that offers a range of treatments— all of which can be enjoyed on a balcony overlooking Tel Aviv or in-room. The hotel’s rooftop sundeck features an unobstructed panoramic view of the city and includes an infinity pool. Together, they combine to provide a calming retreat from the city’s bustling life. thenorman.com
T H E N O R M A N , T E L AV I V
THE NORMAN
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Photos courtesy The Mustique Company
G E T AWAY
WA T C H J O U R N A L
Views of the Mustique Villa Collection MUSTIQUE VILLA COLLECTION Av. Tomàs Blanes Tolosa, 4 07015, Calvià Spain
MUSTIQUE VILLA COLLECTION
MUSTIQUE VILLA COLLECTION
Mustique Offers 75 Unique Villas in a Caribbean Paradise. By Zoë Bodzas Mustique, an island nestled in St. Vincent and the Grenadines, boasts tropical climes, hills and palm beaches. This idyllic Caribbean spot also offers a selection of more than 75 luxury villas. The Mustique Villa Collection comprises a variety of homes whose architecture and interior design reflect their owners’ personalities and interests. Collectively, the villas offer a range of hospitality options in a variety of sizes, from small cottages for cozy honeymoons to 10-room private estates—perfect for multigenerational vacations. Each villa staffs a chef, gardener and maid for ultimate convenience. For parents seeking even more relaxation, some choice villas include “kids only” game rooms and serene Japanese Zen gardens, with childcare and babysitting also available by request. For sportier vacationers, many of the larger estates include private tennis courts, swimming pools and putting greens, plus water sports like scuba diving, sailing and fishing. To preserve the island's natural beauty for years to come, many homes now incorporate greener technologies. mustique-island.com
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CHALLENGE
SEA-LINER
212.463.8898 WWW.CVSTOS.COM
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MASERATI $140,500 (877) 696-2737 maserati.com
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FRESH STYLE Maserati’s new Quattroporte—the sixth version of the model—has four doors but rivals the speed of most two-door supercars, and it's larger yet lighter than the previous Quattroporte models.
SPEED-OMETER The Quattroporte can reach a speed of 100 kilometers per hour in under five seconds, and a maximum speed of 307 kilometers per hour—making it the fastest four-door Maserati ever built.
SAFETY FIRST A fifty-fifty weight distribution utilizing double-wishbone front suspension and five-link rear suspension gives the car unrivaled handling in any driving condition. Engineered with the most advanced protection of its passengers in mind, it is deceptively rugged in any kind of weather.
CAR WITH A CONSCIOUS Maserati didn’t build the new Quattroporte without the environment in mind. Compared to the previous model, this version of the Quattroporte has 20 percent lower fuel consumption and 20 percent reduced emissions.
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NECESSITIES
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BOSS $645 (800) HUGO BOSS
IN THE BRIEF (CASE) The structured, sleek Absolute leather attaché case from Boss is roomy enough to carry all workplace necessities in a style fit for any boardroom.
hugoboss.com
LUXURIOUS LEATHER The bag’s features include a detachable 28-inch shoulder strap as well as a sturdy top handle. Made from smooth calfskin leather, it has an easy-access zip pocket on the exterior back. Manufactured in Germany, the versatile bag is available in black or dark brown.
INTERIOR DESIGNER With a multicompartmental design, it's easy to stay organized for any meeting or a quick business trip. The attaché’s interior includes two large slip pockets, one zip pocket and four pen slips within the fabric lining. Not only will it be difficult to lose a smartphone and writing utensils, but laptops will also be protected in a padded, built-in sleeve.
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CANADA GOOSE $675 (416) 780-9850 canada-goose.com
ALL-WEATHER GEAR Canada Goose’s Timber Shell men’s jacket is made with the brand’s exclusive Tri-Durance Hard Shell material, an all-weather proof fabric with a comfortable four-way stretch. Reflective strips for visibility makes it safe for all kinds of sporting activities in varying light conditions, and an adjustable draw cord and zippered armpits add to the versatility of the jacket.
HOME GROWN The brand has produced all of its products in Canada since its founding in Toronto in 1957. Since then, Canada Goose has focused on being in the forefront of designing clothing and outerwear for extreme weather conditions. STORAGE SIMPLIFIED Ideal for any type of outdoor adventuring, the Timber Shell jacket features pockets with water-repellent locking zippers. It is available in five bold colors.
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STETSON $690 (866) 271-7077 stetson.com
HAPPY ANNIVERSARY This year marks a huge milestone for Stetson hats: It’s the brand’s 150th anniversary. To commemorate the momentous occasion, the company is launching a collection of new and revived products, including the Icon 50x, which is made of fur felt and comes in silver belly or black versions. DIGITAL DETAILS To celebrate the anniversary, Stetson has created an interactive digital platform that celebrates its past by connecting it to the present. Their digital microsite
(150.stetson.com) interactively explores the brand, allowing users to explore Stetson's history, discover how the hats are made and browse travel destinations with a Stetson-curated city guide. A CENTURY AND A HALF The anniversary collection will include hats, footwear, clothing, belt buckles and fragrances, all adorned with a 150th anniversary commemorative pin or stamp.
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JORGE ADELER $5,985 (703) 759-4076 adelerjewelers.com
TO COIN A PHRASE History buffs and fashionable men alike will be attracted to Jorge Adeler’s Gods and Heroes cufflink collection. A selection of styles are available at Bergdorf Goodman, including the Antoninus Pius pair, made of certified authentic coins that date to the reign of the eponymous emperor. ANCIENT CRAFTSMANSHIP Adeler is so passionate about his pieces, he travels the globe in search of gems and coins for them—from the emerald mines of Colombia to the diamond bourses in
Israel. Each Antoninus Pius cufflink features a genuine ancient Roman silver denarius coin, and comes with a certificate of authenticity from the American Numismatic Association. HISTORY ON YOUR WRIST Adeler’s goal with the Gods and Heroes collection is to connect the wearer with great moments in ancient history. Antoninus Pius was a great thinker of his time, a lawyer by training, he introduced the ideas of presumption of innocence and fair trial venue. The Antoninus cufflinks are a perfect accessory for attorneys and judges.
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HARRY WINSTON PRICE UPON REQUEST (212) 399-1000
I’VE GOT A SECRET The Secret Wonder ring by Harry Winston is a shining example of its latest high jewelry collection, Secrets by Harry Winston.
harrywinston.com
DOUBLE DUTY The top side of the Secret Wonder ring features an exquisite medallion design, meticulously set with a starburst of round and pear-shaped diamonds. The medallion can be flipped to the reverse side, revealing of sapphires, diamonds, and aquamarines artfully set in the white gold.
FIFTH AVENUE FANCY Harry Winston opened his doors in 1932, with an offering of diamonds and precious stones set in surprising, innovative, and unique jewelry. He donated the Hope Diamond to the Smithsonian Institute in November of 1958, and the remarkable blue stone is a star attraction to this day.
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DAVID YURMAN $60,000 (888) 398-7626 davidyurman.com
PINK PARADISE David Yurman’s Reverse Set Hot Pink Spinel and Diamond Earrings offer a shining example of the creativity and innovation that have been the standard of David Yurman’s designs since he founded his company in 1980.
ON THE MOVE The earrings are designed to swing subtly with movement, and the facets of the spinels and diamonds are perfectly poised to reflect a warm sparkling light onto the lucky owner.
UNIQUELY YOURS The one-of-a-kind pair was hand-crafted using more than 89 carats of rare hot-pink spinels, in a unique reverse setting. A princess-cut diamond serves as a sparkly accent on the hinge of each earring between the top round setting and the drop.
QUALITY CONTROL David Yurman uses only the finest stones in the highjewelry collection. The earrings’ princess-cut diamonds are rated GH/VS, and the spinels were hand selected to match in color and clarity.
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DAVIDOFF $13,750 (727) 824-5400 davidoff.com
FINE CRAFTSMANSHIP Davidoff’s lacquered Grand Dome Humidor features a burl walnut finish and a varnished okoume interior, which keeps it from absorbing humidity. Skilled craftsmen in France make all Davidoff humidors, and the Grand Dome, which holds up to 100 cigars and comes with a push-button hidden compartment hidden for other accessories, is no exception. TOTAL CONTROL Designed to maintain a relative humidity of 70 percent, Davidoff Humidors correct fluctuations to preserve the
highest integrity of flavors in the cigars, so they taste the way they were meant to taste. Two regulators come with every humidor for total power over humidity levels. HERITAGE Zino Davidoff is widely credited with inventing the first humidor in the 1940s for preserving Cuban cigars. Born in 1906 into a family of tobacconists in Kiev, Davidoff traveled throughout South America and Cuba in the 1920s to learn how different cigars were made before returning to Switzerland to take over his parents’ business.
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TECH
KUBE $1,099 (855) YOU-KUBE kubesound.com
SOUND AND SUSTENANCE Newcomer Thomas & Darden’s Kube is a portable audio system/food cooler designed for indoor and outdoor use. Weighing about 20 pounds, Kube is built to last; it is water-resistant and can hold a single charge for up to 20 hours. The Kube’s Bluetooth range is 50 feet, and it delivers sound from 3 to 100 decibels. FUN IN THE SUN Kube acts as a cooler to store food and beverages, making it perfect for park hangouts and beach picnics. Handles on both sides make for easy transportation of this cooler-
sound-system, a must-have accessory for outdoor gatherings. DESIGNED FOR STYLE With dimensions of 17 by 23 inches, Kube isn’t technically a cube, but its design is sleek and contemporary. The audio system features two marine-certified lattice speaker grills by Polk Audio. The system is finished in matte gray. Covered USBs for water-resistance and five simple button controls round out the exterior.
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L.L. BEAN $750 (800) 441-5713 llbean.com
FLY INNOVATION L.L. Bean's Apex Four-Piece Fly Rod Outfit promises the brand's lightest, fastest fly fishing performance. The agile rod, the product of 100 years of testing and innovation from the brand, features nanotechnology for added strength and sensitivity, with multidirectional scrim and graphite. This additional durability ensures a rod sturdy enough to endure tough fishing, bushwhacking and traveling. BOLD LOOK , HIGH PERFORMANC E In addition to its technical prowess, the Apex Outfit is
available in bright orange for a standout contemporary look. Crafted in sleek T6061 aluminum with an anodized finish, this rugged high-performance rod resists corrosion. The Apex also offers cork grips for added comfort. RUGGED FE ATURES The rod includes a G10 reel seat spacer, which is resistant to corrosion and water, as well as a Scientific Anglers floating fly line, leader and backing installed with the reel. For convenience, the rod easily switches from left- to right- hand retrieve and travels smoothly in an aluminum rod tube with a screw-off cap.
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VICTORINOX $203 (800) 442-2706 swissarmy.com
OUTDOOR ENTHUSIAST Victorinox Swiss Army’s Ranger Grip Boatsman is a perfect multipurpose tool for a variety of activities in the great outdoors. The knife, which comes in a protective and convenient nylon pouch, is an easy-to-spot bright yellow color. One of the nine varieties of the Ranger Grip collection, the Boatsman houses eight implements with a total of 19 functions. GET A GRIP The knife’s ergonomic handle grips easily, and is made from organic polished cellidor and rubber inlays. At 130
millimeters long and with a weight of 9.4 ounces, this Swiss Army knife is sturdy and hefty, with lock blades for added security. A lifetime warranty on manufacturing malfunctions covers the entire piece. WINE AND DINE Additional features include a corkscrew, key ring, can opener, a small screwdriver, cap lifter with screwdriver and wire stripper, needle nose pliers, wire cutters and a nut wrench. The Ranger Grip Boatsman's main knife is a 3.9 inch one-hand serrated locking blade.
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Photo by Marc Eggimann
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VITRA Price Available in June (212) 463-5750 vitra.com
DOUBLE DUT Y Vitra’s home furniture collection welcomes the Planophore, a bookshelf and room divider in one. Designed by British duo Edward Barber and Jay Osgerby, the bookshelf is available in two heights and two widths, two wood finishes and two aluminum finishes. IN PL ANE SIGHT The Planophore draws inspiration from the 1871 Planophore model airplane that is powered by twisted rubber bands. Its solid wood shelves appear to float on slim aluminum panels that can be rotated to frame neighbor-
ing objects. The axis on which the panels rotate is offset to allow for a myriad of arrangements as well as structural stability. BARBER AND OSGERBY Swiss company Vitra was founded in 1950 and is dedicated to improving places through design. The Planophore bookshelf belongs to a collection of products designed by Barber and Osgerby for Vitra that includes the Mariposa sofa and the Zeb stool.
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WESTLEY RICHARDS & CO. $225,000 +44 121 333 1900 westleyrichards.com
THE LION’S DEN Westley Richards & Co.’s just-introduced Lion Rifle sets a new gold standard for marksmanship. Crafted from the finest Turkish walnut and adorned with gold lettering and detailed engravings of lions in various fighting poses, the Lion Rifle is as beautiful as it is functional. “AS GOOD AS A GUN CAN BE MADE” Westley Richards & Co. has spent more than 200 years perfecting its trade of handmade shotguns and rifles, each one custom-built by a team of highly skilled craftsmen in the English Midlands. Westley Richards also
makes equipment and leather accessories with the same precision and history, offering a seamless experience for sportsmen. THE WORKS The Lion features some of the best components a rifle can have. It is a sidelock double rifle action with two triggers, .470 nitro express caliber 24 inch chopper lump barrels, a leather covered recoil pad, and a number of other decorative and practical pieces. Weighing in at 10.5 pounds, this gun is meant for use by only the most experienced marksman.
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LeCoultre ladies pendant watch circa 1931
Chapter
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WA T C H J O U R N A L OPPOSITE: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept RD#1
History Repeating Itself By Keith W. Strandberg
Audemars Piguet’s Concept Watch Redefines What Is Possible in a Minute Repeater and Sets a New Bar for Acoustics. 88
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Dial details of the Royal Oak Concept RD#1
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FINDING A NEW WAY The RD#1 study considered the entire timepiece—including the hammers, gongs and case—to be a musical instrument; the movement was the musician and the watchmaker the conductor. “Generally, when we did minute repeaters, we always built the case in a very traditional way,” explains Claudio Cavaliere, a global brand ambassador for Audemars Piguet who formerly worked in product development for the company. “One person worked on the case, someone else worked on the movement, then we assembled it and tuned the chiming, and we got a good level of performance. For the Concept, we did it the other way around. We decided to approach it as a stringed musical instrument that would produce tones that would be well-received by the brain. We built a watch that transmitted the sound like a stringed instrument— the string vibrates and makes the whole case vibrate, and that’s the idea behind our project.”
K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G
Sound has always been a challenge for watchmakers. Making the gongs loud enough to be heard was easier when the timepiece was a large pocket watch, because the volume of the case allowed for the resonance of the sound. Old pocket watches were not water resistant, so there were no accompanying gaskets to muffle chimes. Today’s wristwatches are much smaller in diameter and height than pocket watches, and are naturally muffled when they are on the wrist. Modern-day water resistance further dampens the sound, so watchmakers have challenged themselves to explore new designs, new materials and new ways of creating the perfect six tones. Audemars Piguet has been making minute repeaters since the company was founded in 1848. Its effort to re-establish the minute repeater as a legitimate timepiece with modern relevance includes a concept watch project begun eight years ago to refine and create the perfect sound. This year, in January, Audemars Piguet introduced the fruits of its labor with the Royal Oak Concept RD#1.
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Historically, minute repeaters were developed to mimic the sounds of the church clocks that chimed the time all across Europe. Having time on demand came in handy in the middle of the night, in a time when there was no electricity to light lamps and candles were snuffed at bedtime. A minute repeater timepiece was a true status symbol, not to mention an amazing feat of mechanical engineering.
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Detail of the crown of the Concept RD#1
“We decided to approach the RD#1 as a stringed musical instrument that would produce tones that would be well-received by the brain.” — Claudio Cavaliere
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Polished to perfection
K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G
The Concept RD#1 project was done in cooperation with the EPFL (Ecole Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne), the leading polytechnical school in Switzerland. One of the key targets was to find a way to objectify the sound, to ensure that the sound of the minute repeater was the most beautiful and harmonious every time. In the past—and still in many companies today—one expert was the sole arbiter of whether the sound was perfect. Audemars Piguet was determined to take the guesswork out of it. “100 years ago, people were making such beautiful sounds with minute repeaters, but they were not able to measure what objectively was pleasant for the brain,” says Cavaliere. “We wanted to understand the factors that make the sound well perceived by humans. As a result of our research, we can now set these targets and we can test the sound objectively. We can give a tool now to our watchmakers who are tuning the minute repeater to meet those targets. We wanted to get back to the beautiful sound of minute repeaters from 100 years ago, but in today’s conditions. Our targets were the purity of the sound, the pitch, harmony, the tone; the volume and intensity of the sound was not the main target.” The Royal Oak Concept RD#1 that was introduced in January of this year had two working prototypes and the sound was glorious—easily 10 times louder than modern minute repeaters, and evocative of the best minute repeaters of all time.
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184_FEATURES ALT.indd 94 The new RD#1 reimagines the traditional minute repeater
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As it is a pure concept watch, the Royal Oak Concept RD#1 is not in the Audemars Piguet collection—yet. The idea was to succeed first, and succeed they did, with two beautiful-sounding prototypes presented at the 2015 SIHH. Now comes the challenge of integrating what they have learned and discovered during the project into the collection. “Minute repeaters are a key part of the DNA and tradition of the brand,” says Tim Sayler, the brand’s chief marketing officer. “The majority of our early watches were minute repeaters, and we have never stopped making minute repeaters. We took this very traditional field of minute repeaters and know how, but really pushed it forward. Striking mechanisms are really only for the highest few manufactures, so it was important for us to work hard and long to come up with something that is truly innovative.” The Concept RD#1 underscores Audemars Piguet’s combination of traditional watchmaking and emphasis on innovation, a mixture that helps the brand stand out in high watchmaking. “The Concept RD#1 helps us in the broader strategy because our brand has been working on its consistency for the last five years, and now we are focusing on product development,” says Xavier Nolot, the CEO of Audemars Piguet North America. “The Royal Oak Concept RD#1 watch helps us deliver a message about innovation that is still attached to our roots and tradition.” “We do everything today based on our craftsmanship from 140 years ago, but at the same time we want to be innovative and forward thinking,” he continues. “A new minute repeater respects the tradition of watchmaking, but at the same time coming up with a concept that chimes so loud and with such purity, speaks to our innovative spirit.” Audemars Piguet’s new Royal Oak Concept RD#1 is the message bearer, aimed at watch lovers all over the world, and the message is that the brand offers the best of both worlds—high watchmaking and high technology. Message received. Clear as a bell.
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NOT FOR SALE
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WA T C H J O U R N A L OPPOSITE: The Devon Tread 1 Exoskeleton
To Infinity and Beyond By Keith W. Strandberg
Talking the Future of Watch Design with Today’s Pioneers. 96
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The MB&F Legacy Machine No. 1
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Watches have changed dramatically over the centuries, evolving from tools that tell time into statements of personality and precious style on the wrist. At the leading edge of watch design are a group of free-thinkers willing to push timepieces to their limits. I spoke with the industry’s avant garde to discover their inspirations and their thoughts on what the watch of the future will look like.
MAX BUSSER, FOUNDER, MB&F
JASON WILBUR, WILBUR CO. (DESIGNER OF THE ORIGINAL DEVON AND OTHERS) I have always viewed my work with watches (as I do the world around me) as a fresh
K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G
I actually do not know my inspiration when I create. Often only when the piece is completely designed do I understand where it came from. MB&F is as much my autobiography as my psychotherapy. I have an idea, and I sketch till I am happy with the concept and general look. Then we sit down with Serge Kriknoff, my partner in the company who is in charge of technology and production, and with Eric Giroud, the super-talented independent designer I have worked with since the beginning. We transform the concept sketch into a beautiful 3-D reality. Only then do we approach the engineers and developers to find a way to make it come to life. This is followed by 12 to 18 months of R&D and engineering, then prototyping and pre-series. The first production piece will usually be delivered three to four years after the sketch. I’m not a very patient person, but it is a very long process.
opportunity for artistic expression, emo- execution. Overall, I think you will see tional value, a new chance to challenge more pure expression and extreme intermyself creatively and to challenge conven- pretations of watches. tion. My creations are sculpture and the subject just happens to be time. Just like STEPHEN FORSEY, CO-FOUNDER, GREUBEL FORSEY with a blank canvas, I am only confined by the canvas itself and the limits of my own creativity. Finalizing each new creation to completely My inspiration comes to me in dreams satisfy our ideas, and living up to the Greua lot. I’m often not aware of the source of bel Forsey standards, while at the same things that come to me. time maintaining and developing the right I like to avoid taking pen to paper too team for our adventure, is a challenge. We early in the process, as you can box your- believe it is extremely important to safeself in. I sometimes spend months with an guard and preserve traditional watchmakidea or two swirling around in my head ing skills for future generations and raise until the concept starts to take shape. I awareness, or risk losing them forever. We stress about the concept and I talk about are addressing this through our project it a lot—it becomes all encompassing. Then, “Naissance d’une Montre.” I spend a lot of time sketching and trying In our first 10 years, we have created to stay as true to the concept as possible. seven fundamental inventions and have I purposely do not think about manufac- brought to life 17 separate developments turing feasibility or anything too technical of original calibers for our timepieces. We at this point. I then take my sketches and are constantly innovating, allowing our create 3-D CAD—computer aided design— creativity to soar and placing no limits to models of the concept watch. If I am told it. it is impossible, then I know I am heading Robert Greubel and I are driven by our in the right direction and we continue. passion for excellence, always looking to I think you will see a great variety of reach unprecedented levels in creation, watches in 2025. Some will be pure modern architecture, reliability, finishing and timeart and sculpture pieces, and some will keeping precision. Our passion for fine still be based in traditional methods and watchmaking and our creative spirit is a
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Detail of the back of the Greubel Forsey Quantième Perpetual à Equation
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WA T C H J O U R N A L BELOW: The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Quatuor
F E AT U R E : T O I N F I N I T Y A N D B E YON D
GUILLAUME TETU, CO-FOUNDER, HAUTLENCE Designing watches for us is about creating a special display, linking architecture and design standards on your wrist. So we look around with open eyes, to enjoy the world
as it is built, so we can see how we want to play in three dimensions with our timekeepers. We always start with a brainstorming session on the way we want to display the time. From the beginning, it’s engineers, watchmakers and me, with sketches and drawings. After that we start to build the movement in 3-D, with CAD, and simulate everything. When we have the movement working, we will make prototypes and start to design the case. A watch is small, and for me the most important thing is that it be ergonomic, wearable and comfortable. For traditional watches, we will continue to invent mechanical poetry, respecting a long tradition of craftsmanship. SCOTT DEVON, OWNER, DEVON WORKS Inspiration can be found everywhere and in everything. The initial Tread 1 was inspired by the use of conveyor belts from the industrial revolution, and our limited edition Steampunk by the cult design subgenre of science fiction and fantasy. The
Exoskeleton was from an idea I had to reverse the skeleton design of watches—and I was also inspired by how the contrasting ideas of the internal skeleton (endoskeleton) of a human and the armor (exoskeleton) of a crab or lobster. I love it when our collectors tell us stories of their experiences with our watches. Most revolve around how they start a conversation—and by that I mean they constantly get stopped and asked to demonstrate how the Devon watch works. People are genuinely excited when they see the belts spin and move, and eventually land on the correct time. I believe that one day there will be technology that allows us to take a computer rendering and produce it with 3-D printing or something akin to that, in days not years. So the limitations on creativity will be solved and watch brands like Devon will lead the way in innovation, technology and design without the limitations of engineering time and production. Truly an exciting future—and I don’t believe it will even take ten years!
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source that leads us to explore new and uncharted territory. We constantly want to push beyond the boundaries of what is thought to be possible. The creation process is particularly unique at Greubel Forsey, as our timepieces are a means of expression. We seek to share and transmit a message or idea— beginning with initial sketches—and then allow this creative spirit free reign throughout the process to bring the finished timepiece to exactly where we want it to be. In the development of our timepieces we spend between three to eight years in R&D before bringing a creation to life, so even though 2025 might seem far away we keep one eye in the future, taking steps forward to bring something new and different to the watch industry.
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WA T C H J O U R N A L OPPOSITE: An Audemars Piguet Tutti Frutti high jewelry watch decorated with hand-carved gemstones, circa 1927
Ladies First By Hyla Bauer
A Century of Iconic Timepiece Designs for the Fairer Sex. 103
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1910 Vacheron Constantin pendant watch on a platinum chain features transparent and opaque enamels layered over a guilloche gold case with diamonds and cabochon emerald accents. 1911 Patek Philippe delicate wristwatch in gold with an art deco floral bezel and bracelet accented with diamonds. 1920 Baume & Mercier “bagnoire” bracelet watch in white gold with flexible fine gold bracelet, diamond bezel and blue sapphire crown. Vacheron Constantin jeweled watch set with diamonds and sapphires on a quadruple strand pearl bracelet. 1925 – 1932 Jaeger Duoplan watch, one of the first to feature diamonds set in steel, its movement’s parts were arranged on split levels for enhanced reliability and precision.
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1950s Vacheron Constantin lady’s wristwatch 18K yellow gold, brilliant-cut rubies, brilliant-cut diamonds, 8/8 cut diamonds. Vacheron Constantin high jewelry watch in yellow gold set with brilliant-cut diamonds and hand-carved emeralds
H Y L A B AU E R
1940 Vacheron Constantin 1940s lady’s wristwatch 18k yellow gold, white gold, brilliant-cut diamonds, gilt dial, claw set diamonds.
1960s Vacheron Constantinady’s wristwatch with rectangular dial and hand woven gold bracelet 18K yellow gold, gilt dial 1962 Jaeger-LeCoultre ring watch in platinum, the dial lies under a cover of diamonds and sapphires. 1964 Jaeger-LeCoultre Joaillerie 101 watch in white gold fully set with diamonds featuring the Calibre 101, the world’s smallest mechanical movement.
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1970 Audemars Piguet Haute Couture watch, designed by Gerald Genta, features handcarved green jade and diamond-set segments. The green jade dial and diamond-set hands helped propel this piece to win the Golden Rose award in 1971. 1970s Ladys wristwatch in yellow gold with gilt dial. Made for the Swiss watch and Jewelry Exhibition of 1970. 1973 Baume & Mercier Galaxie watch in white gold and diamonds – winner of the Golden Rose award in 1972. 1987 Patek Philippe Flamme watch in rose gold, the first modern ladies collection by the brand, features a bracelet constructed of hand-crafted gold rings woven together to create a flame pattern.
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F E AT U R E : L A DI E S F I R ST H Y L A B AU E R
1990 Vacheron Constantin Lady Kalla high jewelry watch features 108 emerald-cut diamonds set in white gold, its petite dial is accented with dauphine hands. 1994 Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duetto watch with two dials indicating two time zones, with local time set to the front, and traveler reference time on the back. 2005 Patek Philippe’s Annual Calendar for ladies marks a new era for complicated ladies wristwatches. 2015 Audemars Piguet Diamond Punk one of a kind high jewelry cuff watch inspired by the punk era, with diamond and onyx set pyramid studs. Set with over 5,600 diamonds.
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Supernatural Photography by Jens Mortensen Styled by Hyla Bauer
Mother Nature is the Only Rival for Modern Timepiece Design. 108
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Dior Huit Grand Bal Plisse watch in Stainless Steel (973) 376-7450, dior.com
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SU PE R NAT U R A L
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Bell & Ross BR 03-94 limited edition watch (786) 454-9739, bellross.com
STYLE
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Hamilton Ventura Stainless steel watch (866) 382-2473 hamiltonwatch.com
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SU PE R NAT U R A L
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184_STYLE.indd 112 Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra watch in 18K gold and diamonds (212) 223-2693, vancleefarpels.com
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STYLE
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Vacheron Constantin 1972 Prestige watch in 18K gold (877) 701-1755, vacheron-constantin.com
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de Grisogono Allegra watch in 18K gold (212) 439-4220, degrisogono.com
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Bulgari Serpenti watch in 18K gold, diamonds and enamel (800) 285-4274, bulgari.com
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WA T C H J O U R N A L OPPOSITE: The 24-hour planetarium of the Astralis collection BELOW: The Parmigiani Tonda Special Edition Meteorite
SU B STA NC E
Otherworldly By Keith W. Strandberg
K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G
A Space Rock on Your Wrist. 119
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ABOVE: The Louis Moinet Tourbillon Rosetta Stone BELOW: The Louis Moinet Astralis in midnight blue
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SOURCING METEORITES
WORKING WITH METEORITES
Meteorites are extremely rare. Only about Creating a dial using meteorite is a very 50 authenticated Mars meteorites and 100 challenging process, made almost imposmoon meteorites have been found to-date. sible by the material. According to Schaller, Meteorites are all very different from one it all depends on the texture of the stone. another, and from any other material found “It can break or even crumble when it’s on Earth—because they are truly out of this being cut,” he says. “All the work is done by one of the very few craftsmen who posworld. Louis Moinet works with meteorite hunt- sess the skills to cut the stone very slowly ers, always looking for the rarest and most so it doesn’t crack. Then, the slices have to
be cut again into the final form, and then these are polished. Until the piece is finished, the meteorite can break.” Louis Moinet has used many meteorites in its watches, including the Rosetta Stone meteorite, considered the oldest fragment ever found, with an age of about 4.5 billion years (its official name is Sahara 99555). Meteorites are quite expensive, currently costing more than the prices of gold, platinum and diamond combined. “It could be the most expensive material on earth,” Schaller says. “I like the connection meteorites have with the infinite world. They show us how small we really are in the universe. Also, I love the mystery. Some carry inside them natural treasures—for instance, the Enstatite H3 contains nanodiamonds.” Watches that use meteorites are not only visually stunning: They offer an opportunity to wear a space treasure on your wrist every day. Now that’s unique.
K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G
Louis Moinet is one of these companies, beautiful pieces to use in its watches. The and the brand has been featuring the ce- most popular meteorites are those from the lestial material for many years now. “We moon, perhaps because the moon is somedecided to use meteorite in our watches thing that people live with every day. “For me, it was really emotional when I because of the historical link Louis Moinet had with astronomy: He was a member of held this little piece of moon rock in my the Astronomy Society in Paris and the hand for the first time,” remembers Schaller. inspiration for developing the first chrono- “I went outside, looked at the moon in the graph was astronomical observation,” says starry sky and thought, ‘Wow, this piece of Jean-Marie Schaller, president of Louis the moon traveled 380,000 kilometers to Moinet. “We also use it because it is a nat- reach my hand. It escaped the moon’s gravural element enriching the design of our ity, wandered in space and then became a timepieces, as we use it in our Treasures shooting star and fell to Earth, ending up in a Louis Moinet tourbillon watch!” of the World collection.”
SU B STA NC E
Meteorite has been used in watchmaking since the 1980s. It’s difficult to pin down when exactly the material was first used, but today there are a handful of companies making limited edition timepieces with meteorite dials.
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WA T C H J O U R N A L OPPOSITE: The Harry Winston Premier Hypnotic Star Automatic 36 mm FOLLOWING PAGE: The Cartier Ballon Bleu Serti Vibrant
Diamonds are a Watch’s Best Friend By Keith W. Strandberg
A Primer for Purchasing Diamond Timepieces. 122
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IF. VVS 2. Melee. The Four Cs. D, E, F, G. M A N U F A C T U R E : D I A M O N D WA T C H E S
What do the above have in common? They’re all diamond terms. Buying diamonds with confidence includes asking informed questions, so let us take you through a crash course in Diamond 101, dedicated to arming you with enough intel to make a good choice.
DIAMONDS ON WATCHES Diamond watches are not just a trend anymore, but a category all unto themselves. Some watch companies have been doing diamond and jeweled watches for most of their history, while many others are new to the diamond game. Women’s watches with diamonds sell faster and better than the same watches without diamonds. Men’s timepieces, too, are starting to be offered more often with diamond enhancements, though a men’s watch completely covered in diamonds is still the exception rather than the norm. DIAMOND GRADING
K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G
If you are in the market for a diamond watch, here’s what you need to know in order to understand the kind of diamond you are buying. There is an internationally accepted grading system for diamonds. Jerry Ehrenwald, G.G., A.S.A., president and CEO of the International Gemological Institute (IGI) explains: “Since the evolution and acceptance of the diamond industry of one internationally accepted system for diamond grading, there is a means for everyone to understand the quality of the diamond they are considering purchasing,” he says. “In order to know where a particular diamond is on this system, a certificate from an independent laboratory like IGI is required. Here at the Institute, we certify a diamond by issuing a document called the Diamond Grading Report. Ehrenwald explains that there are four C’s of diamonds: the carat weight (objective measure), the cut (the shape, proportion, etc., which are somewhat subjective in evaluation), color (D, E and F mean the diamond is colorless) and clarity. “The grades for clarify are: FL is flawless, IF is internally flawless, VVS1 and 2 are very very small inclusions, not visible to the naked eye, VS1 and 2 are very small inclusions, again not visible to the naked eye, SI1, slight inclusions, not visible to the naked eye, and SI2, slight inclusions sometimes visible to the naked eye, depending on the cut, I1, I2 and I3 for imperfect, visible to the naked eye,” he continues. Diamond grades are something reputable retailrs should know. “A retailer who is selling a diamond watch is should be able to to tell you the diamond’s grade. If he does not or is not able to declare the quality, then you can request an independent grading report from a credible laboratory. Any reputable dealer should be able to tell you specifics about the diamonds on the watch, using the four C’s,” Ehrenwald says.
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K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G
M A N U F A C T U R E : D I A M O N D WA T C H E S
BELOW: The Chopard Joaillerie L’Heure du Diamant OPPOSITE: The Richard Mille RM 51-02 Tourbillon Diamond Twister
DIAMOND GRADING The four C’s of diamonds:
CARAT The measure of weight of the diamond, not size. One Carat equals 0.2 grams or 0.007 ounce. The weight of the diamond and the price per carat determines the price of a diamond. CUT Many gemologists consider this to be the most important characteristic of a diamond. Even if the diamond is huge and of high quality, if it is cut poorly it will have reduced brilliance.
VVS1: v ery very small inclusions, not visible to the naked eye. VVS2: v ery very small inclusions, more or larger than VVS1, not visible to the naked eye. VS1: very small inclusions, not visible to the naked eye. VS2: very small inclusions, more or larger than VS1, not visible to the naked eye.
COLOR Diamonds with no color (D, E and F) are very rare and more expensive.
SI1: slight inclusions, not visible to the naked eye.
CLARITY How few natural imperfections a diamond has.
SI2: s light inclusions sometimes visible to the naked eye, depending on the cut.
FL: flawless.
I1, I2 and I3: imperfect, inclusions visible to the naked eye to larger degrees ascending from 1 to 3.
IF:
internally flawless.
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M A N U F A C T U R E : D I A M O N D WA T C H E S
MELEE (PAVÉ) DIAMONDS
THE BOTTOM LINE
K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G
Many diamonds used on watches, however, are quite small in carat weight. Those that weigh .18 carats or less are called melee diamonds; these are often used in a pavé setting, and are often simply referred to as pavé stones. Like other diamonds, melee diamonds can either be full cut (58 facets) or single cut (16 facets), and the quality of the stones can vary widely. “If you are going to buy quality, ask for full cut, VS, F or G and say that you want matched, calibrated diamonds,” says Fred Cuellar, the president and CEO of Diamond Cutters International. Matched means that all the little diamonds have the exact same diameter.” The selection and setting of the diamonds contributes greatly to the end cost of the watch. When the best companies create a diamond watch, much time is spent selecting the right sized diamonds that match in color; it may take many months to get enough matching diamonds to make the watch. Then, pieces are hand-set by skilled artisans, making each piece a work of art.
If you want the highest quality diamonds, be prepared to pay more. “Better quality diamonds are going to cost more money,” says Ehrenwald. “Anything in the SI1 quality or better is good for a watch, because the consumer can’t see the quality imperfections with his eyes.” Many brands, of course, set much higher quality standards than SI1—in fact, the top brands usually don’t go below VVS2, and some are even more stringent. You shouldn’t, however, look at buying a diamond watch as a diamond investment. A diamond watch is an emotional purchase, not a hedge against the second coming of the Great Depression. Choose a diamond watch that will fit your taste and your budget, keeping the quality of diamonds in mind.
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Van Cleef & Arpels Cadenas watch
Chapter
3
Legacy 184_LEGACY.indd 129
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Tiffany CT60 watch in 18K rose gold
L E G A C Y: T I F FA N Y & C O .
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Tiffany & Co.
The Legendary New York Minute is Reborn. 131
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K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G
L E G A C Y: T I F FA N Y & C O .
BELOW: The newly-completed 57th Street flagship in 1940
Founded in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has a legendary history as a watchmaker and jeweler. The original jewelry store was opened by Mr. Charles Lewis Tiffany on lower Broadway in Manhattan, and by 1844 he started offering timepieces. Tiffany & Co. became the first Patek Philippe dealer in the United States (it is one of the brand’s top retailers to this day), and has a dedicated Patek Philippe boutique on the mezzanine level of its Fifth Avenue flagship. Charles Lewis Tiffany became much more than a retailer, however, making his mark on watchmaking by producing (and selling) pocket watches in Geneva, Switzerland. Tiffany & Co. even prompted the coining of the the phrase “New York minute” by unveiling the its large exterior clock held in the arms of Atlas above the store at 550 Broadway in 1853, which New Yorkers came to depend on for the correct time as they passed by. This year, on April 2, Tiffany unveiled its new watch collection, including the CT60 honoring founder Charles Lewis Tiffany, heralding the brand’s return to the serious watchmaking arena. tiffany.com 132
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1837
Charles Lewis Tiffany opens the Tiffany & Co. retail store on lower Broadway in Manhattan.
1844
1854
Tiffany & Co. begins selling watches.
L E G A C Y: T I F FA N Y & C O .
Tiffany signs an agreement with watchmaker Patek Philippe to become the brand’s first retailer in the United States. Tiffany & Co. remains a Patek Philippe retailer today at its Fifth Avenue flagship.
1847
Tiffany builds a four-story, state-of-the-art manufacture at Geneva’s Place de Cornavin. Here, Tiffany met the increasing demand for gold pocket watches by creating advanced movements that chimed the hour and quarter-hour; and produced diamond-encrusted lapel watches and timepieces embellished with pastoral scenes in enamel, along with mythic figures, floral motifs and fine scrolls engraved in gold.
1868
The Tiffany Timer, a stopwatch, is introduced. It is used for engineering and scientific purposes, as well as for sporting events.
1883
With the advent of Standard Time in 1883, Tiffany performs the weekly regulation of over 400 clocks in the homes of its customers. This cements the company’s stellar reputation for customer service.
K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G
1875
Tiffany & Co. receives its first patent for watch improvements. In later years, the company receives patents for advances in watch movements and hand settings. Renowned Tiffany gemologist George Kunz eventually patents a luminescent green paint for numerals and hands.
1853
Tiffany unveils its famous Atlas clock, helping to coin the phrase “New York minute,” above the store at 550 Broadway. The clock now graces the entrance of the company’s Fifth Avenue flagship store.
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1974
Tiffany introduces an ultra-thin watch called “the thinnest skeleton watch in existence.”
1983
L E G A C Y: T I F FA N Y & C O .
The Atlas watch is introduced as a tribute to Tiffany’s great public clock. The watch is distinguished by its threedimensional, diamond-cut Roman numerals.
1876
Tiffany is honored for its jeweled watches at the Philadelphia World’s Fair, beginning a series of honors at various World’s Fairs. A centerpiece of its winning exhibit at the 1889 Paris World’s Fair is the American Wild Rose Lapel watch, a diamond and enamel creation by chief designer Paulding Farnham. Tiffany also receives medals for watch cases and astronomical clocks at the 1893 Chicago Fair. Tiffany’s exhibit at the 1939 New York World’s Fair features an astonishing array of elegant diamond and platinum cocktail watches, as well as timepieces in the striking “cocktail style” such as the Trapezoid wristwatch with tinted gold, geometric styling and ruby highlights. Interestingly, a Tiffany purse watch from the period influenced the new Tiffany East West timepiece.
1993
The Streamerica watch is introduced, reflecting the gleaming forms and metallic surfaces of the 1930s American industrial design movement.
1920s
K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G
Influenced by Art Deco, Tiffany streamlines the wristwatch, creating the ultimate accessory for flapper fashions.
2015
1945
US President Franklin Delano Roosevelt is given a Tiffany & Co. watch as a birthday gift, which he then wears to the famous Yalta conference. The inscription on the caseback reads, “Franklin Delano Roosevelt, with loyalty, respect and affection.” The new CT60 collection is inspired by this watch.
Tiffany pays tribute to founder Charles Tiffany by introducing the Tiffany CT60, a new pillar collection equipped with all Swiss-made movements. And its history comes full circle.
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The Baume & Mercier Clifton automatic watch
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4
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THE LIST Top Watch Retailers Across the Country
THE LIST
ARIZONA E.D. MARSHALL JEWELERS 10261 N. Scottsdale Road Scottsdale, AZ 85253 (480) 922-1968 Brands: Blancpain, Bremont, Franck Muller, Louis Moinet, Maurice Lacroix, Piaget. TOURNEAU 7014 E. Camelback Road, #1055 Scottsdale, AZ 85251 (480) 429-2304 Brands: Bell & Ross, Bremont, Tudor.
POLACHECK’S JEWELERS 4719 Commons Way, #E Calabasas, CA 91302 (818) 225-0600 Brands: Cartier, Chanel, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Tudor.
FELDMAR WATCH CO. 9000 W. Pico Boulevard Los Angeles, CA 90035 (310) 274-8016 Brands: Blancpain, Breguet, Bremont, Carl F. Bucherer, Hermès, Omega.
SHREVE & CO. 329 Stanford Shopping Center Palo Alto, CA 94304 (650) 327-2211 Brands: Corum, IWC, Omega, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Rolex.
CHATEL & CO JEWELERS Lincoln Street between Ocean & 7th Avenue Carmel, CA 93921 (888) 524-2835 Brands: Bell & Ross, Hermès, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Richard Mille, Zenith.
MILANO BIJOU 928 S. Western Avenue, #211 Los Angeles, CA 90006 (213) 382-1700 Brands: Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-Le Coultre, Franck Muller, IWC
BEN BRIDGE 7007 Friars Road #543 San Diego, CA 92108 (619) 291-7572
CALIFORNIA DAVID ORGELL 262 N. Rodeo Drive Beverly Hills, CA 90210 (310) 273-6660 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Girard-Perregaux, JeanRichard, Maurice Lacroix, Perrelet, Ulysse Nardin.
T OP R ETA I L E R S
GEARY'S 360 N. Rodeo Drive Beverly Hills, CA 90210 (310) 887-4250 Brands: Patek Philippe, Rolex. WESTIME 254 N. Rodeo Drive Beverly Hills, CA 90210 (310) 271-0000 8569 Sunset Boulevard Beverly Hills, CA 90069 (310) 289-0808 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Devon, Dior, Franck Muller, Hermès, Ulysse Nardin. TOPPER FINE JEWELERS 1315 Burlingame Avenue Burlingame, CA 94010 (650) 347-2221 Brands: Ball, Ernst Benz, Glashütte Original, Longines, Omega, Zenith.
TOURNEAU 3333 S. Bristol Street, #2603 Costa Mesa, CA 92626 (714) 966-1204 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Devon, Frédérique Constant, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Patek Philippe, Tudor. BEN BRIDGE 1177 Glendale Galleria Glendale, CA 91210 (818) 637-2511 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe.
TOURNEAU Century City Shopping Center. 10250 Santa Monica Boulevard, #103 Los Angeles, CA 90067 (310) 553-8463 Brand: Panerai. TOURNEAU Westfield Century City, 10250 Santa Monica Boulevard, #103 Los Angeles, CA 90067 (310) 553-8463 Brands: IWC, Baume & Mercier.
C.J. CHARLES 1135 Prospect St. La Jolla, CA 92037 (858) 454-5390 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, Breguet, Cartier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre
WESTIME 3832 Cross Creek Road Malibu, CA 90265 (310) 456-2555 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Devon, Girard-Perregaux, Greubel Forsey, Louis Moinet, Zenith.
WESTIME 1227 Prospect Street La Jolla, CA 92037 (858) 459-2222 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Devon, Girard-Perregaux, Greubel Forsey, Louis Moinet, Zenith.
TRADITIONAL JEWELERS 817 Newport Center Drive Newport Beach, CA 92660 (949) 721-9010 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Patek Philippe, Rolex.
4505 La Jolla Village Drive, #C-19 San Diego, CA 92122 (858) 453-9996 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe,. TOURNEAU 7007 Friars Road, #358A San Diego, CA 92108 (619) 296-8463 Brands: Cartier, Franck Muller, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Longines, Montblanc, Panerai. SHREVE & CO 200 Post Street San Francisco, CA 94108 (415) 421-2600 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin. TOURNEAU 845 Market Street, #129 San Francisco, CA 94103 (415) 974-1846 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Breitling, Cartier, JaegerLeCoultre, TAG Heuer, Tudor
BRYANT & SONS 812 State Street Santa Barbara, CA 93101 (805) 966-9187 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Breitling, Cartier, Patek Philippe BEN BRIDGE 395 Santa Monica Place, #132 Santa Monica, CA 90401 (310) 458-4550 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe.
COLORADO HYDE PARK 3000 E. 1st Avenue, #243 Denver, CO 80206 (303) 333-4446 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre. OSTER JEWELERS 251 Steele Street, Cherry Creek North Denver, CO 80206 (303) 572-1111 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Bell & Ross, Bremont, Carl F. Bucherer, Dior, Ulysse Nardin. BETTERIDGE JEWELERS 141 E. Meadow Drive Vail, CO 81657 (970) 790-6560 Brands: Bell & Ross, IWC, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Rolex, Tudor.
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CONNECTICUT
FLORIDA
LUX BOND & GREEN 140 Glastonbury Boulevard Glastonbury, CT 06033 (860) 659-8510
KING JEWELERS 18265 Biscayne Boulevard Aventura, FL 33160 (305) 935-4900 Brands: Bell & Ross, Breguet, Carl F. Bucherer, Devon, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Roger Dubuis.
169 Greenwich Avenue Greenwich, CT 06830 (203) 629-0900 Brands: Raymond Weil, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Victorinox Swiss Army.
MANFREDI JEWELS 121 Greenwich Avenue Greenwich, CT 06830 (203) 622-1414 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Breguet, F.P.Journe, Franck Muller, Richard Mille, Vacheron Constantin. SHREVE, CRUMP & LOW 125 Greenwich Avenue Greenwich, CT 06830 (800) 225-7088 Brands: Bremont, Nomos, Piaget, TAG Heuer.
LUX BOND & GREEN 46 La Salle Road West Hartford, CT 06880 (860) 521-3015 136 Main Street Westport, CT 06107 (203) 227-1300 Brands: Patek Philippe, Rolex, Shinola, TAG Heuer, Tudor.
MAYOR'S JEWELERS 6000 Glades Road, #1119 Boca Raton, FL 33431 (561) 368-6022 342 San Lorenzo Avenue, #1000 Coral Gables, FL 33146 (305) 446-1233 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Breitling, Dior, Patek Philippe, Rolex, TAG Heuer. 7457 N. Kendall Drive Miami, FL 33156 (305) 667-7517 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Breitling, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Rolex, Tudor. 4200 Conroy Road, #180 Orlando, FL 33431 (407) 363-5740 Brands: Frédérique Constant, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, TAG Heuer, Tudor. 8001 S. Orange Blossom Trail, #484 Orlando, FL 32809 (407) 859-3116 Brands: Breitling, Bulgari, Cartier, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Tudor.
LEVINSON & CO. INC. 888 E. Las Olas Boulevard Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301 (954) 462-8880 Brands: Bulgari, Franck Muller, Hermès, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Roger Dubuis. YAMRON 5555 Tamiami Trail North, Suite 11 Naples, FL 34108 (239) 592-7707 Brands: Breitling, Bugari, Harry Winston, IWC, Patek Philippe, Ulysse Nardin. HAMILTON JEWELERS 215 Worth Avenue Palm Beach, FL 33480 (561) 659-6788 Brands: Breguet, Bulgari, Patek Philippe, Ralph Lauren The Gardens Mall, 3101 PGA Boulevard Palm Beach Gardens, FL 33410 (561) 775-3600 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Cartier, IWC, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe. TOURNEAU 5494 Tamiami Trail North Naples, FL 34108 (239) 591-1342 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Frédérique Constant, Longines, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Tourneau. 320 San Lorenzo Avenue, #1225 Coral Gables, FL 33146 (305) 448-6878
19575 Biscayne Boulevard, #567 Aventura, FL 33180 (305) 792-2298 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Tudor.
TOURNEAU 2301 Kalakaua Avenue, #101 Honolulu, HI 96815 (808) 922-4111 Brands: Blancpain, Devon, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Roger Dubuis, Vacheron Constantin.
ILLINOIS 9700 Collins Avenue, #210 Bal Harbour, FL 33154 (305) 866-4312 Brands: Franck Muller, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Tudor. 175 Worth Avenue Palm Beach, FL 33480 (561) 832-8812 Brands: Breitling, Cartier, Devon, Longines, Patek Philippe, Rolex. 3111 PGA Boulevard Palm Beach Gardens, FL 33410 (561) 694-6028 Brands: Ball, Baume & Mercier, Omega, TAG Heuer, Tissot, Victorinox Swiss Army. WESTON JEWELERS 1728 Main Street Weston, FL 33326 (954) 389-7990 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Chopard, Dior, Hublot, Montblanc.
GEORGIA TOURNEAU 3393 Peachtree Road NE, #3082 Atlanta, GA 30326 (404) 760-1883 Brands: Bell & Ross, Blancpain, Chopard, IWC, Panerai, Vacheron Constantin.
HAWAII BEN BRIDGE JEWELER 1450 Ala Moana Boulevard, #2212B Honolulu, HI 96814 (808) 955-0177 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe.
TOURNEAU 835 N. Michigan Avenue, 3rd Floor Chicago, IL 60611 (312) 266-7600 Brands: Baume & Mercier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, TAG Heuer. TRABERT & HOEFFER 111 E. Oak Street Chicago, IL 60611 (312) 787-1654 Brands: Breguet, Cartier, Franck Muller, JaegerLeCoultre, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin. C. D. PEACOCK Northbrook Court Northbrook, IL 60062 (847) 564-8030 Oakbrook Center Oakbrook, IL 60523 (630) 571-5355 Woodfield Mall Schaumburg, IL 60173 (847) 619-6560 Old Orchard Center Skokie, IL 60077 (847) 679-1837 Brands: Cartier, IWC, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Rolex, TAG Heuer.
T OP R ETA I L E R S
LUX BOND & GREEN 1 Mohegan Sun Boulevard Uncasville, CT 06382 (860) 862-9900 Brands: Breitling, Cellini, Montblanc, Rolex, TAG Heuer.
LES BIJOUX 306 Plaza Real Boca Raton, FL 33432 (561) 361-2311 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Roger Dubuis, Vacheron Constantin, Van Cleef & Arpels.
2223 N. West Shore Boulevard, #165 Tampa, FL 33607 (813) 354-8080 Brands: Breitling, Bvlgari, Cartier, Frédérique Constant, IWC, Panerai, Tudor.
Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Cartier, Devon, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai.
THE LIST
BETTERIDGE JEWELERS 117 Greenwich Avenue Greenwich, CT 06830 (203) 869-0124 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Ralph Lauren.
ALTIER JEWELERS 701 S. Federal Highway Boca Raton, FL 33432 (561) 395-3462 Brands: Cartier, Linde Werdelin, Patek Philippe.
140 University Town Center Drive Sarasota, FL 34243 (941) 893-1124 Brands: Breitling, Rolex, TAG Heuer.
KANSAS TIVOL 4721 W. 119th Street Overland Park, KS 66209 (913) 345-0200 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Cartier, David Yurman, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Rolex.
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MARYLAND
THE LIST
RADCLIFFE JEWELERS 1848 Reisterstown Road Pikesville, MD 21208 (410) 484-2900 Brands: Cartier, Chanel, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Vacheron Constantin. 825 Dulaney Valley Road, #196 Baltimore, MD 21204 (410) 321-6590 Brands: Breguet, Cartier, Hermès, IWC, TAG Heuer, Tudor. LILJENQUIST & BECKSTEAD 7101 Democracy Boulevard, #2325 Bethesda, MD 20817 (800) 719-1190 Brands: Breguet, Cartier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Omega, Patek Philippe.
MASSACHUSETTS
T OP R ETA I L E R S
ROYAL JEWELERS 58 Main Street Andover, MA 01810 (978) 475-3330 Brands: Breguet, Cartier, David Yurman, Panerai, Piaget, TAG Heuer. SHREVE, CRUMP & LOW 39 Newbury Street Boston, MA 02116 (617) 267-9100 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, Blancpain, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin. 232 Boylston Street Chestnut Hill, MA 02467 (800) 225-7088 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, IWC.
TOURNEAU Copley Plaza, 100 Huntington Avenue, #D-13 Boston, MA 02116 (617) 267-8463 Burlington Mall, 75 Middlesex Turnpike, #1205 Burlington, MA 01803 (781) 272-8463 Brands: Breguet, Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, TAG Heuer, Tudor. LUX BOND & GREEN 416 Boylston Street Boston, MA 02116 (617) 266-4747 Brands: Cellini, Patek Philippe, Rolex, Shinola, TAG Heuer, Tudor. 60 Central Street Wellesley, MA 02482 (781) 235-9119 Brands: Raymond Weil, Rolex, Victorinox Swiss Army.
MICHIGAN DARAKJIAN JEWELERS 101 Willits Street Birmingham, MI 48009 (888) 843-6659 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Carl F. Bucherer, Devon, Maurice Lacroix, Montblanc, Ulysse Nardin. TAPPER'S 27716 Novi Road Novi, MI 48377 (248) 465-1800 6337 Orchard Lake Road W. Bloomfield, MI 48322 (248) 932-7700 Brands: David Yurman, Omega, Raymond Weil, Rolex, Shinola, TAG Heuer. 2800 W. Big Beaver Road Troy, MI 48084 (248) 649-2000 Brands: Breitling, IWC, Panerai, Rolex, Shinola, TAG Heuer.
MINNESOTA BEN BRIDGE 136 West Market Bloomington, MN 55425 (952) 814-9356 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe. WIXON JEWELERS 9955 Lyndale Avenue South Bloomington, MN 55420 (952) 881-8862 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Rolex, Tudor.
MISSOURI CLARKSON JEWELERS 1306-C Clarkson Clayton Center Ellisville, MO 63011 (636) 227-2006 Brands: Carl F. Bucherer, Frédérique Constant, Patek Philippe, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Tudor. TIVOL 220 Nicols Road Kansas City, MO 64112 (816) 531-5800 Brands: Cartier, David Yurman, Panerai, Patek Philippe, TAG Heuer, Tudor.
NEVADA BEN BRIDGE 1300 W. Sunset Road, Space 2621 Henderson, NV 89014 (702) 456-8807 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe. BELLUSSO AT THE PALAZZO 3325 Las Vegas Boulevard S., #1702 Las Vegas, NV 89109 (702) 650-2988 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, Blancpain, Breguet, Cartier, IWC, Vacheron Constantin.
BEN BRIDGE 3200 S. Las Vegas Boulevard #1490 Las Vegas, NV 89109 (702) 733-0003 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe.
HAMILTON JEWELERS 92 Nassau Street Princeton, NJ 08542 (609) 683-4200 Brands: Cartier, Chanel, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, TAG Heuer.
NEW YORK HOROLOGIO FINE WATCHES 3377 S. Las Vegas Boulevard, #2265 Las Vegas, NV 89109 (702) 733-0016 Brands: Bell & Ross, Blancpain, Breitling, Franck Muller, Omega, Ulysse Nardin. ROMAN TIMES JEWELERS 3500 Las Vegas Boulevard, #D10A Las Vegas, NV 89109 (702) 733-8687 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Franck Muller, IWC, JaegerLeCoultre, Roger Dubuis, Ulysse Nardin. TOURNEAU TIME DOME 3500 S. Las Vegas Boulevard #F-07 Las Vegas, NV 89109 (702) 732-8463 Brands: Bremont, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, TAG Heuer, Tudor, Vacheron Constantin. WYNN LAS VEGAS 3131 S. Las Vegas Boulevard Las Vegas, NV 89109 (702) 770-3520 Brands: Bovet, Breguet, Carl F. Bucherer, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin.
NEW JERSEY THE TIMEPIECE COLLECTION 58 East Palisade Avenue Englewood, NJ 07631 (201) 894-1825 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Girard-Perregaux, Harry Winston, Hermès, Omega, TAG Heuer.
LONDON JEWELERS 2 Main Street East Hampton, NY 11937 (631) 329-3939 Brands: Patek Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Franck Muller, Tudor. TOURNEAU 630 Old Country Road, #1100 Garden City, NY 11530 (516) 873-0209 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Omega, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Tudor. LONDON JEWELERS 28 School Street Glen Cove, NY 11542 (516) 671-3154 Brands: Patek Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Franck Muller, Tudor. 180 Wheatley Plaza Greenvale, NY 11548 (516) 621-8844 Brands: Patek Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Franck Muller, Tudor. 2046 Northern Boulevard Manhasset, NY 10030 (516) 627-7475 Brands: Patek Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Franck Muller, Tudor. CELLINI 509 Madison Avenue New York, NY 10022 (212) 888-0505
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The Waldorf Astoria, 301 Park Avenue New York, NY 10022 (212) 751-9824 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, Bell & Ross, Franck Muller, GirardPerregaux, Greubel Forsey, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, Ulysse Nardin, Vacheron Constantin.
Montblanc, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Roger Dubuis, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Vacheron Constantin. LONDON JEWELERS 47 Main Street South Hampton, NY 11968 (631) 287-4499 Brands: Panerai.
NORTH CAROLINA
510 Madison Avenue New York, NY 10022 (212) 758-5830 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Franck Muller, Tudor.
WINDSOR JEWELERS 6809-D Phillips Place Court Charlotte, NC 28210 (704) 556-7747 Brands: Bell & Ross, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Tudor, Ulysse Nardin. 526 S. Stratford Road Winston-Salem, NC 27103 (336) 721-1768 Brands: Bell & Ross, Panerai, Patek Philippe, TAG Heuer, Tudor, Ulysse Nardin.
OHIO MANN, INC. 26300 Cedar Road Beachwood, OH 44122 (216) 831-1119 Brands: Patek Philippe, Breguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai.
TOURNEAU TIMEMACHINE 12 E. 57th Street New York, NY 10022 (212) 758-7300 Brands: Ball, Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Blancpain, Breguet, Breitling, Cartier, Devon, IWC, JaegerLeCoultre, Patek Philippe, Piaget, Rolex, Tudor, Vacheron Constantin.
BEN BRIDGE Washington Square, 9518 SW Washington Square Portland, OR 97223 (503) 603-1285 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe.
WEMPE 700 Fifth Avenue New York, NY 10019 (212) 397-9000 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Breguet, Breitling, Cartier, Chopard, Glashütte Original, IWC, JaegerLeCoultre, Longines,
OREGON
SHREVE & CO. 640 Southwest Broadway Portland, OR 97205 (971) 295-5555 Brands: Baume & Mercier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Longines, Panerai, Patek Philippe.
1521 Walnut Street Philadelphia, PA 19102 (215) 546-6505 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin. TOURNEAU 160 N. Gulph Road, #1078 King of Prussia, PA 19406 (610) 491-8801 Brands: Ball, Baume & Mercier, Blancpain, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Tudor.
TENNESSEE KING JEWELERS 4121 Hillsboro Pike Nashville, TN 37215 (615) 724-5464 Brands: Cartier, Chanel, IWC, Jaquet Droz, Rolex, TAG Heuer.
TEXAS TOURNEAU Pentagon City, Fashion Centre at Pentagon City, 1100 S. Hayes Street, H03A Virginia, Arlington, VA 22202 (703) 414-8463 Brands: TAG Heuer. 13350 N. Dallas Parkway, #1205 Dallas, TX 75240 (972) 661-1503 Brands: Ball, Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Bremont, Devon, Frédérique Constant, Hamilton.
15900 La Cantera Parkway, #2275 San Antonio, TX 78256 (210) 694-5654 Brands: Cartier, Christian Dior, Frédérique Constant, Maurice Lacroix, Panerai, Tudor. BEN BRIDGE Barton Creek Square Mall, 2901 S. Capitol of TX Highway, #J10A Austin, TX 78746 (512) 329-9066 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe. The Domain, 3401 Esperanza Crossing, #106 Austin, TX 78758 (512) 491-8014 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe.
5135 W. Alabama street, #7130 Houston, TX 77056 (713) 960-1998 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe. ZADOK JEWELERS 1749 Post Oak Boulevard Houston, TX 77056 (713) 960-8950 Brands: Breguet, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Piaget, TAG Heuer, Vacheron Constantin. BACHENDORF'S 8400 Preston Road Dallas, TX 75225 (214) 692-8400 Brands: Chanel, Chopard, IWC, Montblanc, Omega, TAG Heuer. EISEMAN JEWELERS 8687 N. Central Express, #514 Dallas, TX 75225 (214) 369-6100 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Hermès, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin.
VIRGINIA 8687 N. Central Express, #1456 Dallas, TX 75225 (214) 369-2277 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe. 7040 N. Mesa Street El Paso, TX 79912 (915) 584-4700 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe.
LILJENQUIST & BECKSTEAD JEWELERS Tysons Galleria, 2001 International Drive McLean, VA 22102 (703) 448-6731 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, Breguet, Cartier, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe.
WASHINGTON
303 Memorial City Mall, #708 Houston, TX 77024 (713) 935-9499 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe.
BEN BRIDGE 143 Bellevue Square Bellevue, WA 98004 (425) 454-9927 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe.
1096 Willowbrook Mall Houston, TX 77070 (281) 894-5799 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe.
1432 4th Avenue Seattle, WA 98101 (206) 628-6800 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe.
T OP R ETA I L E R S
125 Westchester Avenue, #2340A White Plains, NY 10601 (914) 397-2301 Brands: Ball, Breitling, Cartier, Dior, Frédérique Constant, Hamilton, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Tissot, Tudor.
GOVBERG JEWELERS 65 St. James Place Ardmore, PA 19003 (610) 664-1715 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Dior, Panerai, Parmigiani, Patek Philippe, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Vacheron Constantin.
5015 Westheimer Road, #2310 (713) 871-8282 Houston, TX 77056 Brands: Baume & Mercier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Patek Philippe, TAG Heuer, Vacheron Constantin.
THE LIST
TOURNEAU The Walt Whitman Mall, 160 Walt Whitman Road, #1055D Huntington Station, NY 11746 (631) 427-2649 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Omega, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Tudor.
PENNSYLVANIA
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HOROLOGY TERMINOLOGY
WATCH JOURNAL
Alarm Automatic Movement Chronograph Rattrapante Chronograph Dual Time Equation of Time Flyback Chronograph GMT Annual Calendar Perpetual Calendar Simple Calendar Minute Repeater Grande Sonnerie Tourbillon Moon Phase Power Reserve Grand Complication Jumping Hour World Time Escapement Balance Wheel Gear Train Tachymeter Telemeter Pulsometer Big Date Retrograde Display Rotor Unidirectional Bezel 140
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WATCH JOURNAL
HOROLOGY TERMINOLOGY
Big (Grand) Date [\'big\] [\'dﾄ》\] B I G ( G R A N D ) DAT E
A complication that allows for greater readability of the date at a glance. The oversized date display has been the hallmark of A. Lange & Sohne timepieces since its revival, and was present in the Lange 1 model that was introduced in 1994 to mark the return of the Saxon manufacture. The now-iconic display was inspired by the Five-Minute Clock in the Semper House in Dresden, Germany. The A. Lange & Sohne Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase also features a moonphase display and a power reserve indicator to keep track of the 72 hours between windings. alange-soehne.com (646) 828-3150
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HUMOR
WA T C H J O U R N A L
JAMIE GOODMAN
“If you would just let me chime in here for a second—” “That’s enough, Bob, you’re repeating yourself again.”
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BR-X1
THE HYPERSONIC CHRONOGRAPH The BR-X1 is the perfect synthesis of Bell & Ross’s expertise in the world of aviation watches and master watchmaking: an instrument with an innovative design, produced in a limited edition of only 250 pieces. Lightweight and resistant, the grade 5 titanium case of the BR-X1 is protected by a high-tech ceramic bezel with a rubber strap. Ergonomic and innovative, the push buttons allow the chronograph functions to be used easily and efficiently. Sophisticated and reliable, the skeleton chronograph movement of the BR-X1 is truly exceptional and combines haute horlogerie finishes with extreme lightness. Bell & Ross Inc. +1.888.307.7887 | www.bellross.com | Download the BR SCAN app to reveal exclusive content
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Breguet, the innovator.
Invention of the Breguet balance spring, 1795 The balance spring gives time rhythm and sets its rate – the key to a watch’s precision. With its many patented innovations, the Tradition 7047PT with fusee tourbillon pushes the limits of precision time-keeping by combining the accuracy of the Breguet balance-spring’s terminal curve, conceived in 1795, and the anti-magnetic properties of silicon. History is still being written ...
BREGUET BOUTIQUES – NEW YORK 646 692-6469 – BEVERLY HILLS BAL HARBOUR
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