Watch Journal November 2015 by Watch Journal

Volume 18, N 8

All That’s Good in Time

The Craftsmanship Issue

Watch Journal Featuring: The Ralph Lauren RL Automotive Skeleton The Rise of Metiers d’Art. Masters of Movement. Philanthropy: Saving the World’s Forests. The World’s Most Complicated Watch. Exploring the History and Future of Hand Craftsmanship.

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Begin your own tradition.

You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely take care of it for the next generation.

Nautilus Ref. 5712/1A Tel: (1) 212 218 1240 patek.com

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Breguet, the innovator. Tradition 7027

BREGUET ART AND INNOVATION IN WATCHMAKING

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DISCOVER MORE THAN 70 HISTORICAL WATCHES AND CLOCKS IN THIS FIRST AMERICAN EXHIBITION TO FOCUS ON BREGUET’S PIONEERING INNOVATIONS IN TIMEKEEPING.

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Watch Journal Magazine, Summer 2015

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TO BREAK THE RULES, YOU MUST FIRST MASTER THEM. THE VALLÉE DE JOUX. FOR MILLENNIA A HARSH, UNYIELDING ENVIRONMENT; AND SINCE 1875 THE HOME OF AUDEMARS PIGUET, IN THE VILLAGE OF LE BRA S S U S . T H E EA RLY WATC H MA KERS W ERE SHAPED HERE, IN AWE OF THE FORCE OF NATURE YET DRIVEN TO MASTER ITS MYSTERIES THROUGH THE COMPLEX MECHANICS OF THEIR CRAFT. STILL TODAY THIS PIONEERING SPIRIT INSPIRES US TO CONSTANTLY CHALLENGE THE CONVENTIONS OF FINE WATCHMAKING.

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United States and Canada - FitzHenry Consulting at (561) 212-6812 International - Louis Moinet, Switzerland at +41 32 753 68 14, info@louismoinet.com

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WA T C H J O U R N A L

Contents DEPARTMENTS 16 Masthead

CONTENTS

18 Editor’s Letter 20 International Editor’s Letter 22 Founding Publisher’s Letter 24 Intelligence 42 Happenings 56 Profile Stephen Forsey, Craig Robins, Vincent Perriard 62 Collector Keith Lobo, Paul Altieri 66 Play Gabriel Kreuther, New York 67 Stay

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Ritz Carlton, Tokyo 68 Getaway Villa Lalique, Alsace 70 Necessities

R E F E R E N CE 57260

C E L E B R AT I N G 2 6 0 Y E A R S O F U N I N T E R R U P T E D WAT C H M A K I N G On September 17th, the 260th day of the year, Vacheron Constantin marked its 260th anniversary by revealing the most complicated watch ever made. Never has there been such an extraordinary alignment of legacy, passion and savoir-faire. CRAFTING ETERNITY SINCE 1755

Experience our 260th anniversary

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WA T C H J O U R N A L

Contents FEATURES 86 Ralph Lauren

CONTENTS

Introducing the RL Automotive Skeleton. 94 Style Dial Design: Architectural and celestial inspiration. 102 Philanthropy The Audemars Piguet Foundation: Dedicated to preserving the world’s forests. 108 Feature Industry executives on modern hand craftsmanship. 114 Feature Breguet’s historic exhibition in San Francisco. 118 Feature Vacheron Constantin creates the world’s most complicated timepiece. 122 Substance The strength of Stainless Steel.

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126 Manufacture Exploring hand-finishing at Bovet. 130 Legacy Montblanc’s storied history. 136 Guide Watch Terminology, Top Retailers in the Country, Horological Humor.

Montblanc Heritage ChronomĂŠtrie ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph Crafted for New Heights Fully developed and crafted in the Montblanc Manufacture in Switzerland, the MB R230 combines two of the most important chronometric complications: a chronograph and a revolutionary minute exotourbillon. For precise time setting, the patented Montblanc Heritage ChronomĂŠtrie ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph can be stopped with the utmost accuracy by an innovative stop-seconds mechanism directly on the balance wheel. This horological highlight takes fine Swiss watchmaking to new heights. Visit and shop Montblanc.com

WA T C H J O U R N A L

Watch Journal

MASTHEAD

Chief Executive Officer Marc Lotenberg SALES AND MARKETING

EDITORIAL

Publisher John Clarkin

Editor in Chief Hyla Bauer

Advertising Directors Adriana Gelves Laurel Nuzzo

International Editor Keith W. Strandberg Associate Creative Director Michael Ryterband

Events Coordinator Simon Swig

Designers Aaron Tripp Taylor Givens

OPERATIONS Controller Miles Bingham

Editorial Coordinator Kay Hodgdon

Finance & Operations Manager Braden Bradford

Editor at Large Spencer Bailey

Executive Coordinator Laurie Sadove

Associate Travel Editor Nate Storey

WATCH JOURNAL LLC

Associate Fashion Editor Courtney Kenefick

Board of Directors Eric Crown Marc Lotenberg Adam Sandow

Contributing Writer Carol Besler Creative Consultants NoĂŤ & Associates

Founding Publisher Glen B. Bowen

INTERN Logan Baker

ADVERTISING & EDITORIAL OFFICE

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Watch Journal LLC 601 W. 26th Street, Suite 1507 New York, NY 10001 info@watchjournal.com ONLINE #watchjournal www.watchjournal.com Twitter: @watchjournal Instagram: @watchjournal Facebook: facebook.com/watchjournalmagazine SUBSCRIPTIONS To subscribe, visit us online at: watchjournal.com/subscribe One-Year Print and Digital: US: $60 / International: $110 Single issue shipped: US: $15 / International: $30 Digital Only: iPad: $14.99, Digital back issues: $6.99 ISSN N 2325-4130 Watch Journal publishes nine issues a year. Watch Journal is a registered trademark of Watch Journal LLC. Copyright 2015, Watch Journal. All rights reserved. Reproduction or transmission in whole or in part in any form or by any means without written permission is prohibited. Opinions expressed in Watch Journal are not necessarily those of the publisher. Watch Journal, its affiliates, employees, contributors, writers, editors and publisher accept no responsibility for inaccuracies, errors or omissions in the information and/or advertisement contained herein. The publisher assumes no responsibility for the claims made by advertisers or the merits of products or services advertised or promoted in Watch Journal. The publisher makes no representations or warranties of any kind, expressed or implied, as to the information, services, contents, trademarks, patents, materials or products included in this magazine. Advertisers and their agencies assume all liability for advertising content. All images reproduced in Watch Journal have been accepted by the publisher on the condition that such images are reproduced with the knowledge and prior consent of the photographer and/or other creator and the subject. As such, the publisher is not responsible for any infringement of the copyright or otherwise arising from any publication in Watch Journal. Printed in the USA. To subscribe, visit us online at watchjournal.com/subscribe. Email: subscriptions@watchjournal.com.

FOR THE PRINCE OF WORDS: A WATCH THAT LEAVES YOU SPEECHLESS.

Big Pilot’s Watch Edition “Le Petit Prince”.

bears a reference to a literary masterpiece and that

Ref. IW5009: Over 70 years ago, when Antoine de Saint-Exupéry published his tale of the little prince, no one could have predicted its resounding global success. At about the same time, the first Big Pilot’s Watch appeared and immediately became a classic as well. Today, the history of both book and watch come together in the Big Pilot’s Watch

two international successes are united on your

Edition “Le Petit Prince”, limited to 250 pieces. And just as Saint-Exupéry’s little prince is discovered anew by ever y generation, so too are the many hand-finished details on this superb timepiece. The embossed stamp of the little prince on the case back is just one example. It means that this IWC

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wrist.

I WC . E N G I N E E R E D FO R M E N .

Limited edition of 250 watches, Mechanical movement, Pellaton automatic winding, IWC manufactured 51111 calibre (50000-calibre family) , 7-day power reserve when fully wound, Power reserve display, Date display, Central hacking seconds, Glucydur ® beryllium alloy balance with high-precision adjustment cam on balance arms, Breguet spring, Screw-in crown, Sapphire glass, convex, antireflective coating on both sides, Glass secured against displacement by drop in air pressure, Special back engraving, Water-resistant 6 bar, Case height 16 mm, Diameter 46 mm, red gold with brown calfskin strap

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WA T C H J O U R N A L

Editor’s Letter

A Personal Touch

EDITOR’S LET TER

The Virtues of Hand Craftsmanship Visiting the ateliers of fine watchmaking is truly an eye-opening experience. To view first hand master craftsmen and women engraving or polishing the tiniest of watch parts is a true wonder. Passion, patience, and precision are traits that these professionals share in abundance. It is a rare person indeed who has the patience to spend more than a day hand-polishing a tiny part. Steady hands and a dedication to detail are attributes that these men and women have in spades. I’ve tried my hand at guillochage, hand engraving, and putting together watch movements, and can say from experience that it is much more difficult than the professionals make it look. It’s no wonder that the top watchmakers and crafts people have dedicated years of training towards perfecting their skills. In this issue, we celebrate the exquisite craftsmanship of the finest watchmakers. We are thrilled to explore the new Ralph Lauren RL Automotive Skeleton timepiece (page 88). The watch is a wonderful example of high watchmaking, craftsmanship, and style. Dials have also been an aspect of creative expression in watchmaking for centuries, in this issue we photograph some of the new standouts in dial design (page 96). We salute the mastery of Vacheron Constantin’s watchmakers, who have broken a new record by creating the world’s most complicated timepiece (page 120). Our Philanthropy feature this month explores the charitable efforts of one of watchmaking’s greats, Audemars Piguet. The company has dedicated its foundation to forest conservation through environmental protection and youth awareness-raising efforts in many parts of the world (page 104). We applaud their efforts and hope you will too.

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—Hyla Bauer Editor in Chief

“To view first hand master craftsmen and women engraving or polishing the tiniest of watch parts is a true wonder. Passion, patience, and precision are traits that these professionals share in abundance.” 18

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WA T C H J O U R N A L

International Editor’s Letter

Letter From Switzerland

I N T E R NAT IONA L E DI T OR’ S L ET T E R

Taking the Long Term View When I first moved to Switzerland to cover the watch industry for Watch Journal, one of the hardest things to adapt to was the pace of life here. After having lived in the hustle and bustle of the East Coast, I was shocked to find that nobody ever seems to be in a rush over here. They work hard, but they take the time to enjoy life. I guess when you have villages and castles that have been around for centuries, the long term view becomes your world view. This way of looking at the world pays off well for the watchmakers here. As the economic situation changes, they tend to take it in stride. Sure, the world is a different place today, with the markets in Asia struggling and other regions having economic troubles. Still, other markets, like the USA, are steadily growing. Established Swiss companies don’t push the panic button, nor do they call out that the sky is falling. They know, based on their long history (remember, they have been through wars, recessions, the quartz crisis and more), that change is the status quo, and as long as they stay the course, working harder and smarter, the vagaries of the worldwide marketplace should take care of themselves. “I have been 40 years in this business and have no reason at all not to be optimistic on the long term,” says Jean-Claude Biver, CEO, TAG Heuer, director of timepieces for the Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy (LVMH) Group. Hublot inaugurated its second manufacturing building last week (it’s huge). “When some brands put on the brakes, it’s time for us to accelerate. I love being contrary! It has helped me during my 40 years in the business and I have no intention to stop being a contrarian.” Some people have claimed that luxury is recession-proof, but no one I have ever talked to in the watch industry has had the arrogance to think this. “I don’t think any industry is protected from economic woes,” says Alexander Schmidt, Director and Category Manager, Watches, Montblanc. “The benefit is that the industry is global today, so some markets are up and some are down. That’s definitely an advantage. Even in difficult environments, people will spend money to buy luxury items. For us, at Montblanc, the current economic situation is really nothing new. Montblanc is very well balanced all over the world; we aren’t dependent on one region.” I admire the approach that the Swiss take, and I’ve decided I am adopting the long view as my view....

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— Keith W. Strandberg International Editor

“Established Swiss companies don’t push the panic button, nor do they call out that the sky is falling.” 20

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WA T C H J O U R N A L

Publisher’s Letter

Craftsmanship and Haute Horlogerie

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PUBLISHER’S LET TER

A Quest for Excellence From design to delivery, brands make their own unique mark in the art and craft of watchmaking. From simple timepieces to extraordinary complications, watch creation employs a level of expertise requiring years of study and work at the bench. The scope of modern watchmaking ranges from simple watch assembly workshops to genuine timepiece manufactures, which can require 40 or more specialized crafts. Each craft of watchmaking—from internal mechanical movements (from simple chronographs to highly complex tourbillons) and external components (watch cases, dials, crowns, buckles and bracelets), all rely on the skills of highly trained specialists. While most people who buy a high level watch never see the smooth internal workings of their watch, they are usually aware that they are there. And this is one of the main reasons why they are willing to invest in a fine timepiece. They know that skilled craftsmen created their watch and this handcraftsmanship makes each watch unique. On some watches, apertures in the case will provide glimpses of the movement, including engraved decorations in a variety of designs, including the well-known Côtes de Genéve. Mechanical movements require the expertise of seasoned watchmakers who have a deep understanding of how all the tiny pieces fit together. Think of it this way: nearly every part in a watch’s movement is necessarily designed to work with another part. Knowing how this all works to produce a fine movement requires another set of skills in the process of watchmaking. In movement-making, there is almost always an unstated need to create something of perfection in a new and different way than it had been done before. Only when the movement is complete can the case designers and engineers apply their special skills to the external parts of the watch. Haute Horlogerie usually requires considerable handwork especially after all parts have been produced to create a movement, case and bracelet. Every surface of the movement gets beveled, buffed, or engraved in some manner. This is one of the explanations why some watches cost more than others— it’s in the finishing. Finishing a movement’s parts is often complex and also decorative. To achieve the highest level of operation and durability the watchmaker must reduce friction of the parts by hand polishing, beveling, and buffing beyond what any machine is capable of accomplishing. This work takes many hours of highly skilled labor and it does indeed add significantly to the cost of producing a watch. The next time someone asks why your watch is so expensive, you’ll know what to say. Cheers! —Glen B. Bowen Founding Publisher

“In movement-making, there is almost always an unstated need to create something of perfection in a new and different way than it had been done before.” 22

76°F

BELOW ZERO

It is at the coldest and most remote extremities of the planet, visited by expeditions and studied by universities but never inhabited by man, that the soul of TUDOR North Flag belongs. A finely honed instrument, with the first movement developed and produced by TUDOR sheltered within, it is the modern adventurer’s solid companion, beginning a new era in the brand’s history. TUDOR NORTH FLAG Self-winding mechanical manufacture TUDOR MT5621 movement, officially certified chronometer, non-magnetic silicon spring, approx. 70 hour power reserve. Sapphire case back, waterproof to 100 m, 40 mm steel case. Visit tudorwatch.com and explore more. TUDOR Watch U.S.A., LLC. New York

INTELLIGENCE

WA T C H J O U R N A L

GROWTH STRATEGY On August 26, 2015, A. Lange & Söhne inaugurated its new manufacturing building in Glashütte, Germany. “The new building is a response to employment growth in recent years and represents an investment in the manufacture’s future,” said Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid. “The focus was on a modern, energy-efficient building that would offer appealing surroundings and ideal working conditions. This will help us further enhance the quality of our watches and optimize our production processes. All the while, we strive to minimize our ecological footprint and resource consumption.” In attendance for the opening ceremony were German Chancellor Dr. Angela Merkel and Saxony’s Prime Minister Stanislaw Tillich, along with 91-year-old Walter Lange, a member of the founding family. “The new

beginning was not easy, but you and your companions succeeded in securing the manufactory’s top-tier position among the world’s finest watch brands once again,” Merkel said to Lange. “Eastern Germany’s good reputation as innovative, flexible and a modern location is based on success stories like yours.” alange-soehne.com

ABOVE: Watchmakers at work in the new manufacture RIGHT: The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Minute Repeater FAR RIGHT: German Chancellor Dr. Angela Merkel at the inauguration

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INTELLIGENCE

WA T C H J O U R N A L

INTELLIGENCE

PERPETUALLY PERFECT Audemars Piguet recently introduced a new high-complication model into its Royal Oak collection, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar. The perpetual calendar is believed to have been developed in about 1800. Audemars Piguet began producing perpetual calendar wristwatches in 1955, making a series limited to nine examples. Over the years, the manufacture has produced a variety of perpetual calendar movements, excelling in ultra-thin calibers. The new self-winding in-house caliber 5134 has been created for the large 41mm case, which has allowed for enhanced readability and aesthetics on the dial. In addition to the day, date, month, and leap year, the moon phase features a highly detailed astronomical moon, and the chapter ring indicates the 52 weeks in the year, with a corresponding central hand. audemarspiguet.com

RIGHT: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar BELOW: Detail of the dial OPPOSITE: A view of caliber 5134's components

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INTELLIGENCE

WA T C H J O U R N A L

SEAWORTHY

INTELLIGENCE

Bremont has unveiled their new B2 Marine Chronometer to celebrate America’s oldest sporting trophy. The America’s Cup, also known as the Auld Mug, is the trophy awarded to the winner of the illustrious America’s Cup yacht race. Bremont, who is the official timing partner to the America’s Cup, has incorporated many exclusive features in the Chronometer, including a skeletonized movement, three time zones, a 30-day power reserve, a 90-day chronograph and a water resistant case. The B2 Marine Chronometer will be limited to a production of 10 pieces. Completely English made and built either to be attached to the bulkhead of a ship or in its own standalone case, Bremont’s newest creation will surely be the envy of any port. bremont.com

DEEP DIVE For the 35th year of America’s Cup, the most important yachting competition in the world, watch manufacture Ulysse Nardin has collaborated with Sweden’s Artemis Racing team to release a commemorative Marine Diver watch. The preliminary event to 2017’s race was held on August 28-30 in Gothenburg, Sweden and also served as the official release of the Marine Diver collaboration. The Marine Diver blends stainless steel and rubber to form a unique watch that is water resistant up to 300 meters. This ultra-functional timepiece also offers a 42-hour power reserve, a power reserve indicator, small seconds register and a unidirectional rotating bezel to prevent any accidental adjustment to dive time. ulysse-nardin.com

ABOVE: The Bremont B2 Marine Chronometer next to the Auld Mug RIGHT: The Ulysse Nardin Artemis Marine Diver

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NEW AND IMPROVED

INTELLIGENCE

Officine Panerai recently revamped its website, adding new and improved functions, as well as an e-boutique offering a selection of watches and accessories for purchase. In addition, on the new site users will have the ability to access a reserved area where their individual preferences and details can be securely stored, and create a wishlist for future reference. A new search tool devoted solely to accessories has been added as well, in response to the growing demand among collectors for straps. Extensive information about the timepieces and accessories is available at the touch of a button, and additional assistance is available through direct personal contact with Paneraiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s concierge service. panerai.com

ABOVE: The Panerai Radiomir 1940 timepiece RIGHT: The new site offers advanced features

WA T C H J O U R N A L

INTELLIGENCE

HOW GRAND IT IS Since 1899 the Dolder Grand & Curhaus in Zurich, Switzerland has served as a capital for the finest in luxury lodging and relaxation. Now, known only as The Dolder Grand, the hotel has been awarded the prestigious title of 2016 “Hotel of the Year”. The title was bestowed upon the hotel in an awards ceremony on August 31, 2015 by Sascha Moeri, CEO of Carl F. Bucherer and Urs Heller, the chief editor of the Swiss edition of French restaurant guide Gault Millau. The two companies have partnered to award the annual distinction since 2006. With balconies that offer spectacular and panoramic views of the Alps, the city of Zurich and Lake Zurich and the hotels’ location in the heart of Switzerland, the Dolder Grand is a worthy recipient. The Dolder Grand is home to “The Restaurant”, which is the highest ranked restaurant in all of Zurich, with two Michelin stars. It also offers an exceptional spa that covers over 4,000 square meters and offers relaxation necessities from Kotatsu footbaths to stand up sunbeds. carl-f-bucherer.com

RIGHT: Celebrating at the Dolder Grand BELOW: The Carl F. Bucherer Manero Power Reserve timepiece

#DontCrackUnderPressure

WA T C H J O U R N A L

INTELLIGENCE

SEALED AND DELIVERED Graham recently introduced the newest model in its Chronofighter collection, the Chronofighter Oversize Navy SEAL Foundation, a limited edition of 500 timepieces. Built with the Navy SEALS in mind, the automatic chronograph was created to withstand extreme temperatures and has a 48 hour power reserve. Its dial is decorated with a digitally-produced camouflage pattern to avoid detection, and the watch’s caseback is decorated with the red, white, and blue logo of the Navy SEAL Foundation. A portion of the proceeds from the sale of each watch will be donated to the Navy SEAL Foundation. President John F. Kennedy formed the Navy SEALS in 1962, and the elite force trains to operate in the environments of sea, air, and land. “The Navy SEAL Foundation is humbled by GRAHAM’s generous commitment of support to the warriors and families of Naval Special Warfare through the creation and sale of this very beautiful limited edition timepiece,” said Robin King, CEO of the Navy SEAL Foundation. graham1695.com navysealfoundation.org

ABOVE: Navy Seals in action RIGHT: Front and back views of the timepiece

Exceptional. The Geneva Watch Auction: TWO 7 & 8 November 2015, 5pm La Reserve Hotel, Geneva Viewing 5-7 November For enquiries, contact pmaudsley@phillips.com or call +44 20 7901 7916

A fine and rare stainless steel Patek Philippe wristwatch with date and bracelet, original cork box, retailed by G端belin, Nautilus, ref. 3700/1, manufactured in 1980 CHF 20,000-30,000

WA T C H J O U R N A L

INTELLIGENCE

OUT OF THIS WORLD H. Moser & Cie. has taken movement testing to new heights: The manufacture recently boarded the first Swiss parabolic flight with its movements and escapements on board to test them in weightlessness and hypergravity environments. In partnership with Precision Engineering AG, Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser & Cie., led tests aboard the flight on various escapements, including an amplitude test. After landing safely on earth, Mr. Meylan remarked on the success of the endeavour. "The tests and the pioneering work we have done today will enable us to improve the stability and quality of our timepieces as well as their isochronous performance,â&#x20AC;? he said. â&#x20AC;&#x153;These results will guide our continued research, and ultimately help us achieve several patent applications. The data and experience gleaned during this experience will enrich our development process for regulating organs." h-moser.com

RIGHT: Edouard Meyland in weightlessness with a movement BELOW: Escapements were also tested on board

CALIBER RM 037

WA T C H J O U R N A L

INTELLIGENCE

PEDAL TO THE METAL Louis Moinet recently introduced a racing chronograph in partnership with 2008 Indianapolis 500 winner Scott Dixon. The two-pusher automatic chronograph was designed with visibility and accuracy in mind. It features high-visibility hands, chronograph pushers inset with carbon fiber and a tachymeter scale engraved on the steel and carbon-fiber bezel. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The chronograph we have created is a beautiful combination of great design, innovation, and precision and I am proud to wear it both in and out of my Indy car,â&#x20AC;? says Dixon. The watch features a 44 hour power reserve and will be produced in a limited series of 365 pieces. louismoinet.com

RIGHT: The Louis Moinet Legend Scott Dixon timepiece BELOW: Scott Dixon in action

CHALLENGE

SEA-LINER

212.463.8898 WWW.CVSTOS.COM

WA T C H J O U R N A L

INTELLIGENCE

TURBO CHARGED Bell & Ross’ series of BR-X1 chronographs has expanded with the limited edition BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillon. With only 20 being produced, this timepiece marks a continuation of Bell & Ross’ dedication to horological complication. The watch, at 45 mm, has strong masculine qualities and the aeronautical inspiration that is prevalent in many chronographs. It is available in either an 18-carat rose gold or grade-5 titanium case and with-or-without 46 diamonds encrusted on the bezel. A rocker monopusher controls the start, stop and reset functions of the chronograph and a thumb rest insert allows for optimized handling. The movement within the watch is spectacular with 282 components and 35 rubies. There is also a 100-hour power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock, a 30-minute counter at 10 o'clock and a 60-second counter at two o’clock. The watch also incorporates a semi-instantaneous jumping minute hand rather than the traditional sweeping hand. Last, but not least the iconic ampersand of Bell & Ross, impressed on the tourbillon cage, sets the beat for the seconds hand. bellross.com

ABOVE RIGHT: Detail of the Tourbillon RIGHT: The BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillon

porsche design

CHRONOTIMER SERIES 1 BLACK & GOLD â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Black titanium chronograph featuring an 18K gold bezel. Elegance with infused casualness. Swiss Made.

E V E R Y T H I N G T H AT D R I V E S M E N Welcome to the world of Porsche Design. A world that stays eternally young, fresh, and cool by passionately driving for innovation. A world where new quality materials, technologies, and finest functional elegance blend into a truly exclusive, iconic contemporary design. Some call it luxury? We call it essentials for a challenging future. www.porsche-design.com

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INTELLIGENCE

BOND-ING WITH OMEGA To celebrate "Spectre," the upcoming Bond film, releasing in November, Omega Watches is introducing the Seamaster 300 “Spectre” Limited Edition Watch. Limited to 7,007 pieces, this great-looking timepiece is water resistant to 300 meters and is powered by the Master Co-Axial caliber 8400. Daniel Craig, the star of “Spectre” and the most recent Bond films, recently visited Omega’s Villeret manufacturing facility to see the watch being produced. “I think what was so impressive was the fact that these watches are made from the ground up," Craig said. "You start with nothing, and then there’s suddenly a working watch. That’s the beauty of it. To see the engineering that goes into it and the legacy that goes into it, that’s what fascinated me.” omegawatches.com

RIGHT: Daniel Craig visits with a watchmaker RIGHT: The Omega Seamaster 300 Spectre Limited Edition timepiece

HAPPENINGS

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CULTURE CLUB The second Chantilly Arts & Elegance Richard Mille drew a crowd of over 13,000 people to the Chateau de Chantilly in Chantilly, France. The weekend event included a polo tournament with top international players organized by Richard Mille ambassador Pablo Mac Donough at the Polo Club de Chantilly, followed by an Argentine barbecue on the picturesque grounds. A spectacular Concours d’Elegance followed, hosting a number of prestige motor clubs including Aston Martin, Jaguar, Ferrari, and Rolls-Royce. The Concours d’Etat “Best of Show” prize went to Mr. Everet Louwman’s 1936 Mercedes 500K Special Roadster. Richard Mille, who is an automobile enthusiast, won the Alain Figaret prize for the finest Formula 1 car, with his BRM H16 lightweight chassis 01 from 1967, a unique model.

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HAPPENINGS

ABOVE: Richard Mille in his BRM H16 from 1967. BELOW: The assembled crowd admires the automobiles

HAPPENINGS

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TORONTO TIME The annual Artists for Peace and Justice (APJ) Fundraiser Festival Gala raised over $1.2 million for the organization. The gala event, sponsored by Bovet 1822, was co-hosted by Bovet 1822 owner Pascal Raffy, Dame Helen Mirren, Susan Sarandon, and APJ founder Paul Haggis. Grammy-Awardwinning singer-songwriter Beck performed for the enthusiastic guests and Dame Helen Mirren presented Susan Sarandon with the inaugural Artists for Peace and Justice Award. During the evening, APJ CEO David Belle expressed his gratitude to Bovet 1822 for their generosity, to which Raffy replied, â&#x20AC;&#x153;We should never be ashamed of wealth and success, enjoy it, but it is also our duty to give back. I applaud the true gentlemen and ladies who have joined us in making a difference.â&#x20AC;? APJ is a non-profit organization that encourages peace and justice and addresses issues of poverty around the world. bovet.com apjnow.com

ABOVE: David Belle, Helen Mirren, Susan Sarandon, and Paul Haggis RIGHT: The Bovet Recital 11 timepiece

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TENNIS, ANYONE?

HAPPENINGS

Collectors and tennis fans gathered for a rare night of virtual tennis with champions Serena Williams and Stan Wawrinka to celebrate the playersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; participation in the US Open tennis tournament. The event, sponsored by Audemars Piguet, was held at the Standard Hotel in New York City, overlooking the Hudson river. Williams and Wawrinka, both brand ambassadors for Audemars Piguet, played in a mixed doubles virtual tennis tournament with the guests. Xavier Nolot, CEO of Audemars Piguet North America, Serena Williams and Stan Wawrinka spoke to the more than 150 assembled guests before the final round of the virtual tournament. For the event, Williams donned the new ladies Millenary timepiece in rose gold with diamond bezel, while Wawrinka wore a rose gold Royal Oak. audemarspiguet.com

LEFT: The Audemars Piguet ladies Millenary timepiece BELOW: Stan Wawrinka and Serena Williams

CALIBER RM 60-01 REGATTA LIMITED EDITION

HAPPENINGS

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MISSION POSSIBLE

ABOVE LEFT: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Cordonnet Duetto timepiece ABOVE RIGHT: Maria Grazia Cucinotta

Venice, Italy is familiar turf for award-winning American film director Brian De Palma, and it is also the locale where he received the Jaeger-LeCoultre Glory to the Filmmaker 2015 Award. It happened at the 72nd Venice International Film Festival in September. De Palma had opened seven of his films at the Lido in Venice. “Jaeger-LeCoultre is proud to pay tribute to Brian De Palma with the Glory to the Filmmaker Award,” says Daniel Riedo, CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre. “For 10 years our company has supported the seventh art and the Venice International Film Festival through continuous promotion of the cinema’s creativity and ingenuity.” De Palma was also honored with a screening of the documentary about him, De Palma, directed by Noah Baumbach and Jake Paltrow. Among De Palma’s films are the original Mission Impossible, Carrie, Scarface, The Untouchables, Raising Cain and Redacted. Jaeger-LeCoultre has been a sponsor of the Venice festival and the filmmaker award for many years. jaeger-lecoultre.com

MKI

AN Y r E SE M B l AN cE To T h E dA Sh BoAr d o F ThE E-T YpE JAguAr IS purElY INTENTIoNAl. Enzo Ferrari called it the most beautiful car in the world. Now two new watches pay homage to Malcolm Sayer’s ground-breaking design. The Bremont MKI and MKII have been developed in partnership with Jaguar. The dials are inspired by the E-Type’s tachometer and the winding weight is based on the car’s iconic steering wheel. You may never own the car, but the MKI and the MKII might just be the next best thing.

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HAPPENINGS

LADIES FIRST Omega recently unveiled an exhibition of its women’s historical pieces at La Triennale in Milan, Italy. The exhibit, entitled “Her Time,” celebrates the rich history of Omega timepieces created for women over the past 100 years. An early and rare Lépine pendant watch in blue enamel with diamond accents is a standout in the assembled pieces. It was created in 1910, two years before the Titanic set sail. Watches representing every decade are included, from 1920’s Art Deco pieces to jewelry watches from the 1960’s and 70’s to the modern classic Ladymatic. The exhibit was officially opened by brand ambassador Nicole Kidman and was celebrated with a gala at the Palazzo del Ghiaccio in Milan hosted by Stephen Urquhart, president of Omega. The “Her Time” exhibit will travel to several cities worldwide, including New York in December, and Los Angeles in spring 2016. omegawatches.com

RIGHT: A rare pendant watch from 1910 BELOW: Nicole Kidman views the exhibit with Omega president Stephen Urquhart

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Watch Journal - Saxon City - Nov 2015

REV 10/10/15

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PORSCHE CELEBRATES ICONIC DESIGN

HAPPENINGS

To celebrate the launch of their new racing-inspired Chronotimer Collection, Porsche Design and real estate developer Gil Dezer hosted â&#x20AC;&#x153;An Evening of Iconic Designâ&#x20AC;? in their showroom at the yet-to-be-finished Porsche Design Tower in Miami. Dr. Jan Becker, COO of the Porsche Design group, and Dezer welcomed over one hundred guests to witness the unveiling of eleven original and stylish chronographs. The watches, inspired by the non reflective instruments in race car cockpits, are coated with seven layers of anti-reflective sapphire crystal to maximize visibility. Also being displayed were several large-scale models of the Porsche Design Tower. The tower, which will become one of the tallest buildings in Sunny Isles Beach once completed in 2016, is the first of its kind and has a unique robotic parking garage, in which owners ride with their car up a glass elevator and park in a private garage next to their apartment. porsche-design.us

LEFT: The Porsche Design Chronotimer Series 1 Black & Gold BELOW: Guests viewed models of the Porsche Design Tower

astron. the world’s first gps solar watch. In 2012 we made history with Astron, the world’s ﬁrst GPS solar watch. Using just the power of light, Astron adjusts to every time zone on earth at the touch of a button. In 2014 we took Astron even further, introducing a full-function GPS solar chronograph. Now with dual time display, Astron is simply the world’s ﬁnest GPS solar watch.

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MEETING OF THE MINDS Actor Patrick Dempsey recently visited the TAG Heuer watch manufacture, to experience first-hand the complexities of watchmaking. Jean-Claude Biver, CEO of TAG Heuer and President of LVMH’s Watch Division, greeted Dempsey and toured the manufacture with him. Dempsey was particularly impressed with the watchmakers in the ‘ateliers’ and asked many questions as he inspected the watches being created. Dempsey was in Europe for car racing at Spa-Francorchamps in Belgium and at the Nürburgring in Germany. This past June, Dempsey Motor Racing Team, which is supported by TAG Heuer, finished second in their category at the legendary 24 Hours of Le Mans, finishing 331 laps at an average speed of 205 km/h. tagheuer.com

WATCH JOURNAL OPPOSITE ABOVE: The TAG Heuer Monaco chronograph OPPOSITE BELOW: Patrick Dempsey tries his hand at watchmaking BELOW: Jean-Claude Biver, Jack Heuer, Patrick Dempsey

HAPPENINGS

STEPHEN FORSEY

PROFILE

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STEPHEN FORSEY

The Innovator On Pushing The Limits of Possibility.

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PROFILE

OPPOSITE: Stephen Forsey ABOVE: The Gruebel Forsey GMT, Quadruple Tourbillon Secret watch

HISTORY BUFF Forsey is an avid student of watchmaking history, feeling strongly that you can’t innovate unless you know what has come before, and he is adamant about keeping traditional skills alive. “When Robert and I came together to create Greubel Forsey, we believed that there was still great room for improvement in watchmaking,” he details. “Our main goal has always been to constantly innovate while still maintaining the traditional watchmaking techniques to keep them alive. We have always questioned each existing fact and always want to overcome the limits

of what was believed possible. Robert and I noticed when we started to work on our first timepiece that many skills and techniques—notably for hand finishing—were no longer practiced. So we were looking already then, fifteen years ago, at the challenge to save these from the dying art aspect of watchmaking skills and techniques.”

“Time is invisible but governs our lives. The mechanical watch is the finest combination of art, science and mechanics I have ever found.” —Stephen Forsey

ity applied to a seemingly simple idea and transforming it into an extraordinarily original timepiece.” Forsey inherited his father’s and grandfather’s passion for the intricacies of mechanics, discovering antique horology through clocks and the mechanical watch at horological school in London. “Time is invisible but governs our lives,” he says. “The mechanical watch is the finest combination of art, science and mechanics I have ever found. The fascination of the unique nature of watchmaking, mechanics, creativity, artistry, rigor, precision are all important facets of fine watchmaking. The future for watchmaking is very open, the appeal of the mechanical watch is being renewed with a younger generation of enthusiastic collectors and it is up to the industry to continue to bring new and interesting products for the public.” THE ROAD AHEAD

FROM RESEARCH TO REALITY “I love pushing the frontiers of performance through our original research,” he continues. “To see a new invention burst into life and working for the very first time. My favorite projects so far have been: the technical development of the Double Tourbillon 30°, the Invention Piece 1 for its original ground breaking mechanical architecture and the GMT for its architecture. All these timepieces embody the true Greubel Forsey spirit, a passion for research and creativ-

Today, Forsey is setting his sights into the future. “We will always favor the qualitative and very exclusive approach,” he confirms. “We wish to continue innovating in high-end watchmaking and always improve our methods of combining modern-day watchmaking with traditional knowledge. We are only at the beginning of the adventure and there is still so much to do... Our strategy will not change: Exceed the limits of the possible.” —Keith W. Strandberg

STEPHEN FORSEY

At first glance, Stephen Forsey seems out of place in the watch industry. A big Brit, he looks like he would fit in better on a rugby pitch or in a boxing ring. It just so happens that he is one of watchmaking’s brightest stars and best thinkers, helping to push horology into the future. Greubel Forsey, the brand that Forsey started with Robert Greubel, is 11 years old this year. “We have been able to go even further than we had originally hoped, thanks to the positive reaction from the collectors and by building a highly motivated team,” Forsey says. “Finally one great achievement in my opinion is that we have had the opportunity to bring all our activities together under one roof so as to share the adventure and continue to write Greubel Forsey’s story.”

CRAIG ROBINS

PROFILE

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CRAIG ROBINS

The Developer on His Passion for Watches.

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PROFILE

and other businesses came in. Once it was a cultural hub, I then realized that combining fashion with art and design would be an ideal mix of uses, so that was the next step. “As we started to bring in fashion, one of the things I thought would be a nice complement to the fashion was to do a contemporary, American version of Place Vendome,” he continues. “This idea that there is one amazing place where you can go to see the most important collection of

“What I like is the mastery that you see in all these different brands.” —Craig Robins” watches in the world is an extraordinary thing. We did it in Design District style, with a lot of art and sculpture.” “I look at collecting watches from the perspective of an art collector—I love the art that is being made now and I focus on that, but if you are a true art collector, that leads you back and you also want important examples of art that is part of our history,” he says. “There are watches that are about the mechanics and the uniqueness of the mechanics, and I find that most interesting,”

he admits. “Then there are sporty and fun watches, and watches with style. All of that is available and appropriate. Then you can go back and collect historical pieces. With watches, there is an artistry that appeals to me. “Art can be just for the sake of expression, it doesn’t have to work, it doesn’t have a functional purpose,” he continues. “In the case of watch, in comparison to a chair, there is such an important, precise mechanical component, it’s another dimension of design.” Robins is a Miami native and doing projects in his own backyard has special meaning for him. “I love to be part of a community and the excitement and energy that is in Miami,” he explains. “Our headquarters are in the Design District. I love having our office in the middle of a project. It’s where I want to spend my time. If you are a positive force in your community, you are a positive force in the world.” —Keith W. Strandberg

OPPOSITE: Craig Robins, Photo: Martien Mulder ABOVE: The Miami Design District's Palm Court, Photo: Robin Hill

CRAIG ROBINS

Miami’s Design District is one of the city’s most vibrant areas and the man behind its development is Craig Robins, CEO of Dacra Development and a confirmed watch lover. “Watches are so interesting to me,” Robins explains. “There is so much creativity that goes into watches, I like the combination of engineering and design. “Cartier has such a classic brand and then there are companies that have innovative and interesting ways of doing things, like Hublot, for example,” he continues. “What I like is the mastery that you see in all these different brands. Watches are collectible, so you can have all different kinds. They are limited, they are special. As a person who enjoys beautiful things, I find timepieces are objects that go back to the history of the creation of civilization and still resonate today.” Robins started his career as a developer of properties in Miami’s South Beach in the Art Deco District. In the mid ‘90s, he realized that South Beach needed a place to expand to, so he began to buy property across the bridge in the Design District. “At first, I saw the Design District as a great historical place, which started with furniture, so I worked hard to get furniture back here,” Robins explains. “Furniture was perfect to pair with art, which was inspired by Art Basel. The Design District became an important creative place,

VINCENT PERRIARD

PROFILE

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VINCENT PERRIARD

The HYT Founder on Innovative Watchmaking.

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PROFILE

continues. “People want to own something unique, different and innovative. These are the basic elements of HYT.” HYT recently announced its partnership with Alinghi for the America’s Cup. “Opening up new channels of communication is a must when you grow fast,” he explains. “Alinghi will help us to do that for the years to come.”

“I love when a watch really reflects your attitude, your character. For me, the watch has to be in tune with you.” —Vincent Perriard NOT YOUR GRANDFATHER’S WATCH

CHALLENGING CONVENTION HYT burst on the watch scene a few years ago with Perriard involved from the start. “I have always believed that it is important to break the rules, create a paradox,” he says. “Liquid has been the enemy of mechanics since the beginning of the watch industry, so playing with liquids inside the watch is a surprise, a disruption which creates interest and questions. “I think HYT is working so well because the watch industry is not so innovative,” he

Perriard is the first to admit that very few people will buy an HYT for their first watch. “The HYT customer loves watches, he has a lot, he loves timepieces which are talking pieces,” he details. “After having purchased 20 watches, he wants to acquire the ultimate innovation using liquid to indicate time.” It’s easy to see that Perriard is having the time of his life working on HYT. “I love my team, the people, traveling, always being in touch with different cultures and

mentalities,” he says. “This is quite enriching. I adore my job. I am the luckiest man on earth. I don’t have the impression it is a job. It’s a passion.” As a former marketing chief for Audemars Piguet, Perriard’s favorite watches, after HYT of course, are his Royal Oak Offshore Diver and other AP watches. “They are still in my heart,” he admits. “I love when a watch really reflects your attitude, your character. For me, the watch has to be in tune with you—HYT reflects this to me.” Perriard feels good about the future of the watch industry. “Short term, the future looks shaky and challenging but mid and long term, the weather is good,” he says. “Every decade the Swiss Watch Industry is doubling and this will continue until at least 2030.” Perriard is often jetting around the world to meet retailers or end consumers for HYT, but when he’s not working, you can usually find him spending time with his wife and his five children—all boys. —Keith W. Strandberg

OPPOSITE: Vincent Perriard ABOVE: The HYT H2 Aviator

VINCENT PERRIARD

Vincent Perriard is one of the most enthusiastic and energetic people in the watch industry. Having worked at Audemars Piguet and Concord, Perriard is now the head of HYT, a cutting-edge brand that combines watchmaking with a liquid display. Liquid is usually the bane of watchmaking and, normally, never the twain shall meet, but HYT has found a way to do it successfully. Perriard started his career in watchmaking totally by chance. “I answered a classified ad in the newspaper, and the next day I was in Le Brassus for an interview and the next month I was heading the marketing of Audemars Piguet with the mission to reposition AP for the year 2000,” he remembers. “The secret for my career has been to never believe I have had success. To me, it’s like happiness… It’s a journey, not a destination.”

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KEITH LOBO

COLLECTOR

KEITH LOBO Engineer

“You can waste a lot of money on watches that aren't right for your collection, so do your homework.”

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COLLECTOR

lects. When I met with him, he was wearing a Zenith Rainbow Flyback (mid-nineties) made for the French Air Force. “Zenith did a reissue, but serious collectors want the original,” he says. “I also have a Universal and some Zeniths made for the Italian Air Force. I have a Tutima from World War II, worn by a Luftwaffe pilot. I have some Lange watches from the World War II era and some U.S. military watches, mostly Elgin and Bulova. “I am the type of collector who likes to be surprised,” he continues. “I can be anywhere in the world and spot a great watch. I was in Tokyo on business and saw a rare Mido, a chrono with no subdials. The watch looks very simple but is mechanically interesting.” Lobo is attracted to watches by their mechanical complexity and design. “I am an engineer, so I’m fascinated by how much complexity can be packed into such a beautiful, small package,” he explains. “I don't service them myself, but I'll open them and check the condition of the movement.” “Some of the greatest fun I’ve had was during the early days [of collecting] when my budget was tight,” he continues. “You can waste a lot of money on watches that aren't right for your collection, so do your homework.” Lobo’s favorite in his collection? “My Patek Ref.

5504,” he answers without hesitation. “It's a very rare complication - a split-second chrono with perpetual calendar and moon phase. Not many were made. They have stopped making them, and every serious collector wants one. That's one I will never give up.” —Keith W. Strandberg

OPPOSITE: Keith Lobo ABOVE, LEFT TO RIGHT: Zenith Rainbow Flyback chronograph made for the French Air Force, Patek Philippe Calatrava, Zenith A. Cairelli chronograph

KEITH LOBO

Engineer Keith Lobo spends his spare time as a philanthropist, an angel investor and a watch collector. “My very first watch was a $500 Elgin,” he remembers. “I liked the look and the case, and I still have it. I have sold just about everything else, but I keep that watch to remind myself of how small you can start in any kind of collecting.” It was advice from another collector that resonated with Lobo and affected his collecting style. “He told me to pick something and focus on it - brand, complication, theme, time period and so on,” he says. “The period I like the most is the late-forties to the early-eighties, except for the quartz period. That almost 40-year span was the golden age of Patek. With Rolex, I tend to stay with the watches made from the late-forties to the early-seventies.” Lobo’s current collection is at about 40 pieces from a high of 100. “Recently, I changed the way I collect,” he acknowledges. “The watches I’m collecting now are very rare and hard-to-find. They are particularly interesting to me if I can find out the history of the watch and the background, sometimes pictures of the original owner. I am a World War II history nut, and I love pilot’s watches.” Lobo is determined to wear the watches he col-

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PA U L A LT I E R I

COLLECTOR

PAUL ALTIERI CEO, Bob’s Watches

“Typically, when a vintage watch comes in, I’ll keep it. One I don’t have is a Comex, and I don’t have a gold Paul Newman Daytona.” 64

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COLLECTOR

the most activity is in Rolex. “I have been a Rolex fan for 40 years, when I graduated college in 1980, I quickly developed a passion for Rolex, the mystique behind it, the craftsmanship,” Altieri explains. “I love what it means to own and wear a Rolex. It’s a great watch and it’s a great business, and it’s fun. Every day the first thing I put on in the morning is my Rolex and it’s the last thing I take off at night. “On my wrist right now is the new ‘Batman’ GMT (actually the GMT Master II in steel), with the blue and black bezel,” he continues. “When Rolex first launched this a few years ago, their nickname was the “Bruiser.” Most of the business bobwatches.com does is in modern watches, but their vintage watch business is growing. “I am more of a collector than a dealer when it comes to vintage,” he admits. “Typically, when a vintage watch comes in, I’ll keep it. One I don’t have is a Comex, and I don’t have a gold Paul Newman Daytona. I have seven or eight Paul Newmans in my collection, but all in steel.”Altieri has about 300 watches in his collection, and he does have some Panerais, Patek Philippe, Tudor and Vacheron Constantin, but his heart lies with Rolex. “I wear my collection occasionally, but my day to day watch is the Batman GMT, because it can take a beating,” he says.

“It’s been very profitable buying and holding vintage Rolexes, but you have to know what you are doing,” he continues. “You should always buy from a reputable dealer. Buy the dealer first and the watch second.” “Sometimes the owners cry in my lobby when they sell their watches,” Altieri continues. “I had a 92 year old man cry when he was handing his watch over, so I told him that if he changed his mind within 90 days, I would sell it back to him.” —Keith W. Strandberg

OPPOSITE: Paul Altieri ABOVE, LEFT TO RIGHT: Rolex Daytona circa 1971, Rolex Triple Calendar circa 1960, Rolex SeaDweller circa 1967

PA U L A LT I E R I

Avid collector Paul Altieri, CEO of bobswatches. com, bought the company from then-owner Bob Thompson, and proceeded to evolve the business into what it is today. “After I bought bobswatches. com, I started the ‘exchange’ concept as applied to watches, like on the stock exchange, which was kind of revolutionary,” Altieri explains. “The business model developed on its own, after hearing customers buying and selling pre-owned Rolex watches yearn for a way to get a better deal. I thought, wouldn’t it be great if they could see both prices, the buy price and sell price? They can see our profit margin, which had never been done before. It really resonated with customers and they have really taken to it because it gives them a comfort level.” “Some customers will try to buy watches themselves, going to eBay or Craigslist,” he adds. “We never recommend this to people who are new to buying Rolex watches online, because it’s difficult to determine if something is legitimate. We stand behind every watch we sell, and we certify that everything is genuine. Authenticity and buying from a legitimate source is more important than price.” According to Altieri, 90% of his business is Rolex, because 90% of the business in vintage watches is Rolex. Altieri will buy and sell any fine watch, but

Photos: Courtesy Gabriel Kreuther

P L AY

WA T C H J O U R N A L

ABOVE: The restaurant lounge. RIGHT: The onyx-lined bar.

GABRIEL KREUTHER

GABRIEL KREUTHER 41 West 42nd St. New York, NY

GABRIEL KREUTHER An Epicurean Oasis in Midtown Manhattan By Nate Storey

In Manhattan, where small spaces and pared-down ambiances define the culinary zeitgeist, Gabriel Kreuther’s new eponymous restaurant inside Midtown’s Grace Building feels like a link to an era when white tablecloth dining was in vogue. Of course, the French chef knows a thing or two about dialing up the pomp—previous stints at the Ritz-Carlton’s Atelier and MoMA’s Modern were decorated with Michelin stars. A mobile of crystal storks welcomes guests to his elegant, 95-seat Bryant Park space, designed by New York-based architect Glen Coben. Coben offset reclaimed timber beams from a Vermont barn with floral-print wallpaper, clay-colored banquettes, and a green onyx-lined bar. Fans of the Modern will recognize Kreuther’s Alsatian-tinged cooking, which hails from the French-German border region where he was raised. Dishes like sturgeon and sauerkraut tart, Long Island duck with red cabbage, and his beloved

gravlax and trout roe tarte flambée populate the fourcourse prix fixe menu. The lounge has more casual offerings such as oysters and housemade liverwurst. In the transient world of food, a lot has changed since Kreuther last donned his whites in 2013. Yet the chef’s familiar and classical European cooking still feels fresh. gknyc.com

WA T C H J O U R N A L RIGHT: The Library at the club lounge BELOW: A guest room RITZ-CARLTON TOKYO Tokyo Midtown, 9-7-1, Akasaka, Minato-ku Tokyo, Japan 107-6245

Photos: Courtesy Ritz-Carlton

S T AY

By Nate Storey

Since the Ritz-Carlton Tokyo first opened in 2007 atop the Midtown Tower, the city’s tallest building and a mixed-use development that houses Tadao Ando’s 21-21 Design Sight museum, it’s been the gold standard for luxury in a city with its fair share of high-end hotels. Fresh off a multi-phase makeover by Spin Design Studio, now it has a palpable sense of place, too. The locally based firm adorned the rooms with Japanese woodwork, kimono-print wallpaper, and carpets that echo the look of bamboo. At the new Club Lounge, four spaces—the reception, garden terrace, dining room, and library— have fans fashioned from cypress trees and floors that resemble stone pathways, a nod to nearby Hinoki Park. Here, Japanese whiskeys come with sweeping views of Mount Fuji. Not everything has been reimagined: the Michelin-starred Hinokizaka, thankfully, still turns out modern takes on Kaiseki, Sushi, Tempura, and Teppa-

nyaki; though the spa now stocks cult skincare label Sodashi and offers treatments with Bakuhan stones from the Shizuoka Prefecture. ritzcarlton.com

R I T Z - C A R LT O N , T O K Y O

TOKYO RISING In Japan's vertical capital, its highest hotel unveils a new Eastern-inspired look.

WA T C H J O U R N A L

VILLA LALIQUE A Luxe Getaway in the Heart of Alsace

G E T AWAY

By Charles Curkin First there was the haute luxury of the Baccarat in New York, and now another respected French crystal manufacturer is dipping its toes into the hotel industry. Villa René Lalique, which opened in the Alsace region of France last month, is decidedly more understated than the Baccarat, but no less luxurious. The six-suite property was built as a personal residence by Rene Lalique in 1920, and has been thoughtfully restyled and repurposed with help from designers Lady Tina Green and Pietro Mingarelli, whose mood board for the project seems to have been primarily Art Deco motifs. On the property, a new building by noted Swiss architect Mario Botta houses a restaurant and wine cellar headed by Jean-Georges Klein—a chef who has seen three Michelin stars in his career—and sommelier Romain Iltis, who lords over a cellar of 20,000 bottles. It’s sure to become a pilgrimage destination for lovers of Lalique, as his namesake museum and original factory are within walking distance of the Villa. With the urban Baccarat and the bucolic Lalique, what will Steuben have in store when the American glass maker throws its hat into the ring? villarenelalique.com

Photos: Courtesy Villa LaLique

RIGHT: A marble tub in a guest bathroom BELOW: The wine cellar is stocked with over 20,000 bottles OPPOSITE TOP: A king-size bed in one of the villa's six suites OPPOSITE BOTTOM: Each suite features a grand living room.

VILLA LALIQUE

VILLA LALIQUE 18 rue Bellevue, 67290 Wingen-sur-Moder, France

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G E T AWAY VILLA LALIQUE

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MERCEDES-BENZ Starting at $129,000 (800) 367-6372 mbusa.com

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NECESSITIES T R A N S P O RT

THRILL RIDE Singer Janis Joplin mused that owning a MercedesBenz would lift her spirits when she co-penned the 1970 tongue-in-cheek ballad, “Mercedes Benz.” And why not? The automaker’s all-new MY2016 Mercedes-AMB GT S sports car will put a smile on many faces. STANDARD LUXURIES What are basic features on a Mercedes may make owners of other cars swoon. This model includes Nappa leather interiors, power heated/memory

AMG performance seats, rearview camera and a Burmester Surround Sound system. SPEED, POWER, HANDLING The GT S is powered by a 4.0 bi-turbo V8 engine with an output of 503 hp, 479 lb-ft of torque, which delivers 0-60 time of just 3.7 seconds, .2 seconds faster than the base model. Chances are, Joplin would have been pleased with either.

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VBH LUXURY $2,800 (212) 717-9800 modaoperandi.com

CIAO BELLA VBH Luxury, founded by designer Vernon Bruce Hoeksema in the early 2000â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, is an Italian company to its core. With the headquarters and creative studio based in Rome and the brand's atelier located in Florence it is easy to tell that each bag has been crafted with the heart and soul of top Italian design. CALL OF DUTY This luxurious, canvas and calfskin traveler bag goes above and beyond the normal duties a day-to-day bag would have. With a muted camouflage print, signaling

a bridge between form and function, the bag will catch the eye of many without being overly flashy. Designed to make everyday travel uncomplicated, the specifically designed cell phone pocket increases ease of access a hundred fold. ON THE GO The detachable and adjustable shoulder strap can help transform this piece from chic traveler briefcase to working manâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s satchel in seconds.

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BALLY $5750 (844) 442-2559 bally.com

HITTING A PEAK In 1953 Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay were the first humans to reach the summit of Mount Everest—and they did so in leather Bally boots. Since then, the brand has shifted towards luxury fashion and away from adventure gear, but the quality of their leather goods remains the same. REACHING NEW HEIGHTS Today, 164 years after its founding, Bally continues to ascend. Fall/winter 2015 marked the second

menswear season for Argentinian-born creative director Pablo Coppola, who has taken the house’s ready-to-wear in a sophisticated-cool, yet decidedly simple direction. ON THE RISE Though the label’s ethos continues to lie in its leather goods, the collection’s clothing designs have prospered under Coppola’s direction. This suede jacket is one of many standout outerwear pieces for fall—and proof of their unceasing climb to the top.

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BUCCELLATI $91,000 (212) 717-9800 modaoperandi.com

STERLING REPUTATION Buccellati has been creating handmade jewelry, flatware and decorative objects since Mario Buccellati opened his boutique in Milan, Italy, in 1919. The company is known for its exquisite and fanciful designs created in the finest materials.

HEAVY METAL The Buccellati evening clutch is made entirely of sterling silver, with 18 karat yellow gold borders hand engraved with a lacework design. Fine parallel lines hand etched into the silver in an allover pattern give the impression of a fine fabric. An envelope-style closure adds to bagâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s allure. ONE AND ONLY The clutch is a unique piece, Buccellati will only produce one of this exquisite evening bag. Catch it while you can.

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NECESSITIES A C C E S S O RY

CHURCH’S $660 44-1604-751251 church-footwear.com

TIME HONORED Oftentimes, the term heritage is attached to a fashion brand that lacks legacy—not the case for British footwear brand Church’s. The label’s roots date back as far as 1675 in Northampton, England. STEP BY STEP Since its inception, Church’s dedication to quality shoes has been unwavering, and continues to be, even after joining the Prada Group in 1999. Each pair takes around 8 weeks and at least 250 manual steps to create.

BUILT TO LAST Like all of Church’s shoes, these cordovan-colored calf leather boots use carefully selected materials and implement the Goodyear method, a laborintensive process that creates waterproof, durable soles. This distinguished technique of construction fashions footwear that stands the test of time, just like the brand itself.

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PRYMA $499 (510) 843-4500 pryma.com

TWIN GIFTS With headphones, you want to look supercool while grooving to audio of stellar quality. You can check both those boxes with the PRYMA Headphones, handmade in Italy by the World of McIntosh (the makers of high-end speakers Sonus Faber). COLORS AND MATERIALS These aren’t headphones in bubblegum colors. Rather they are in synch with luxury Italian design aesthetic and quality. They come in five

distinct designs and hues—Coffee & Cream, Pure Black, Heavy Gold, Rose Gold & Dark Gray and Carbon Fiber. PLUG IN Each set has a removable leather headband, die-cast aluminum ear-cup body and copper and stainless steel buckles, allowing for easy adjustment to your head size and comfort level. All that’s left to do now is to tune in and kick back.

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NECESSITIES TECH

LOMOGRAPHIC SOCIETY INTERNATIONAL $749 (212) 529-4353 lomography.com

BOKEH BY THE BALTIC SEA Hand crafted in Russia, the new Petzval 58 Bokeh Control Art Lens is the first update to the iconic Petzval Lens that was originally designed by Joseph Petzval in 1840. The lens features a special Bokeh control ring, that is paired with 58mm focal length, to allow the photographer complete control over the blurred aspect-ratio in their image. BLACK OR BRAZEN Available in black or brass, the Bokeh Control Ring is customizable with star, hexagon and tear

drop shapes. The lens is compatible with Canon EF and Nikon F mounts and mount adapters for many other cameras are available. COMING SOON The lens is perfect for any type of photography, from portrait shooting to busy city streets, the possibilities are endless. The lens will be available online and in Gallery Stores worldwide in May 2016.

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OCEAN KAYAK $1,100 (800) 852-9257 oceankayak.com

BOAT WITH HISTORY The word kayak is Inuit for a canoe made of a frame covered with animal skins, except for a center opening, and powered using a double-bladed paddle. American producer Ocean Kayak has updated this ancient vessel in its product line, including the Scrambler 11.

MODERN COMFORTS This polyurethane oceangoing boat weighs 47 pounds and is 11.5 feet long and 30 inches wide. The design provides for plenty of legroom (50 inches) and holds up to 350 pounds. THE EXTRAS Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s those special touches that sailors appreciate. Among them are side-mounted carrying handles, paddle keepers, a deck bungee and a skid plate.

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NECESSITIES S P O RT S G E A R

STUDIO ZUNG starting at $1200 (212) 343-8391 studiozung.com

SURF CITY New York-based architect Tommy Zung, an avid surfer, recently introduced a line of surfboards that combine function with high design. Zung collaborated with professional surfer Brad Gerlach to combine form with high performance. BORN IN THE USA The surfboards are crafted in Southern California, and are available in a range of colors and sizes to suit a variety of surf styles.

HIGH DESIGN The surfboards join Studio Zung’s “Ride” collection, which also produces bicycles and skateboards. Crafted of polyurethane and fiberglass, the boards are coated in a colored multi-layer resin tint.

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TIFFANY & CO. $45,000 (800) 843–3269 tiffany.com

GLOBAL STYLE Jean Schlumberger designed some of the most highly sought after jewelry of the 20th century. His resume includes a client base of global fashion icons like Jackie Kennedy and Audrey Hepburn, and he was responsible for mounting the worldfamous Tiffany Yellow Diamond on a brooch called “Bird on a Rock”.

MATCH MADE IN HEAVEN Schlumberger began designing for Tiffany & Co. in 1956 and soon had his own workshop within the luxury giant. He is one of only four jewelers that Tiffany has allowed to sign their own designs. NATURE’S DESIGN Much of Schlumberger’s work was influenced by the natural world around him and this is illustrated in the Daisy bracelet. 18k gold daisies open outwards and circle the wrist of the wearer, while the pistils of the flowers are filled with stunning, lustrous diamonds.

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NECESSITIES J E W E L RY

DAVID WEBB $176,000 (212) 421-3030 davidwebb.com

MODERN LEGACY David Webb’s styles have transcended through stars of yesteryear like Elizabeth Taylor into modern celebrities like Jennifer Lawrence and Beyonce. The company, whose designs most embodied the styles of the 1960’s, gained new ownership in 2014 and is poised to solidify its perch amongst the titans of jewelry. ARABIAN NIGHTS The David Webb Shangri-La necklace embeds carved emeralds, oval cabochon turquoise, plati-

num, and diamonds into an 18 karat gold chain. Drawing inspiration from Webb’s fascination with the traditional patterns of the Arabian gulf, this piece was featured at the Doha Jewellry and Watch Exhibition in Qatar last May. SOCIETY’S JEWELER A retrospective featuring Webb’s designs and his stylistic inspirations was exhibited at the Norton Museum of Art in West Palm Beach, Florida last year, signifying his global reach and dedication to advancing fine jewelry design.

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ALDEN $3,750 (203) 445-7617 interludehome.com

YOUR MOVE One way to make your next board game more enticing is to play it with a brainy opponent on the Alden Glass Table, which combines glass and acrylic to create a luxe corner for an evening of relaxation, camaraderie or a test of intellect. A NICE FIT The manufacturer Interlude Home has designed a compact, yet with ample elbowroom, occasional square table that is 29 inches high and measures 30 inches by 30 inches.

CHOOSE YOUR GAME The table, available in clear or frosted models, comes with four different tops, including a clear one if you leave game time out of the equation. There are also boards for chess (believed to have come from 7th-century India), checkers (with many variations worldwide) and backgammon (with origins in Byzantine Greece).

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BOTTEGA VENETA $11,500 (212) 371-5511 BOTTEGAVENETA.COM

A QUICK NAP No one needs to convince you to grab a snooze on this stunning camp bed with an accompanying pillow and a gunmetal criss-cross structure, part of the Bottega Veneta Home Collection. The “bed” of the piece is in the trademark weave that you see on the company’s handbags, wallets and briefcases. The pillow boasts a smooth and soft leather ideal for resting your weary head.

STOWAWAY The piece is practical too. You can easily fold and store it. When unfolded, protective tips on the legs prevent flooring from being marred. A STORIED HISTORY Refreshingly, you won’t find the company’s initials on this bed or any of its products, because the 49-year-old Italian luxury brand has a motto, “When your own initials are enough.”

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CHRISTOFLE $25,000 (800) 599-2352 stregis.com

A BIT OF BUBBLY Created exclusively for St. Regis Hotels & Resorts, the St. Regis Saber by Christofle is a bespoke champagne saber crafted by master silversmiths. The sterling silver handle is decorated with a diamond pattern, while the blade is fashioned of stainless steel. DON’T TRY THIS AT HOME With the purchase of the saber, the St. Regis will offer a master class in champagne sabering for those new to the practice.

PARTY LIKE NAPOLEON Napoleon Bonaparte was known for opening his champagne with a saber. The French general once said, “Champagne: in victory, one deserves it; in defeat, one needs it.”

CHRONOGR A PH CHRONOM ET ER Precise, Refined, Universal. An elegant Chronograph wristwatch with multiple complications for the discerning timepiece collector. Limited annual production of 250 pieces. W A L D A N W AT C H E S . C O M

Available at East Coast Jewelry Palm Beach 323 Worth Avenue • Palm Beach, FL 33480 • (561) 820-8822 Mizner Park 332 Plaza Real • Boca Raton, FL 33432 • (561) 353-5216

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WA T C H J O U R N A L OPPOSITE: The RL Automotive Skeleton

Divine Details

Ralph Lauren Takes Craftsmanship to New Heights With The RL Automotive Skeleton. 87

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The RL Automotive Collection has been expanded greatly this year, with four additional references. All are powered by Swiss mechanical movements, the “engines” of these fine timepieces in keeping with the Automotive theme.

Ralph Lauren is an American icon. He has created a fashion empire, and his clothing and accessories are sought-after throughout the world. However, through all of the success and growth his company has achieved, Lauren has remained personally involved in the every aspect of his business. In fact, according to Luc Perramond, president and CEO of Ralph Lauren Watches and Jewelry Co., Mr. Lauren is involved in every step of the design and manufacturing process of his timepiece and fine jewelry collections, paying attention to the details of every timepiece and every piece of jewelry. It’s this kind of laser focus that Mr. Lauren applies to every part of his business, and why Ralph Lauren Watches and Jewelry is poised for success. THE CREATION PROCESS Every watch and every piece of jewelry that Ralph Lauren produces originates from the man himself. From the overall look to the smallest details, Mr. Lauren is intimately involved and no project moves forward without his explicit approval. A case in point is the recently introduced RL Automotive Skeleton. The first open-worked model in the entire Ralph Lauren collection, this is an evolution of the Automotive collection that used wood on the dial -- this latest iteration includes a wooden bezel, which is eye-catching and has never been done before in the watch industry. The Automotive Collection was born from the passion Ralph Lauren has for classic cars and drew inspiration from his own vintage cars to create this collection. When you see the new Automotive Skeleton next to Mr. Lauren’s Bugatti Type 57SC Atlantic Coupe, the design connection is immediately apparent. “I’ve always been inspired by automotive design — the materials, the lines, but also the power and functionality,” says Ralph Lauren. “Cars are like art — moving art — an accomplishment in mechanics and precision.” The wood used on the RL Automotive Skeleton’s bezel is the same as that used for the steering wheel and the dashboard of the Bugatti Atlantic, called amboyna burl, it is a beautiful hard wood that is used in vintage autos and fur-

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A view of the RL Automotive Skeletonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s components

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The RL Automotive Chronometer Steel in 45mm and 39mm sizes

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niture. The Atlantic is an incredibly elegant black car with full curves, and the case of the new skeleton is designed to echo those lines. This wooden bezel is a challenge to incorporate into the 44.8mm black gunmetal steel case. There is an incredible amount of craftsmanship in the choosing and shaping of the wood, and then there is the work involved to fit it into the bezel. It requires the skills of woodworking experts to match the color and grain that Mr. Lauren has specified. Over time, the wood in each watch bezel will gradually age, taking on a distinctive patina, and ensuring that each is piece is unique. The skeleton work on the hand-wound IWC F.A. Jones movement was done exclusively for Ralph Lauren by Val Fleurier, complete with blackened bridges and a cut away main plate. The timepiece also features the new RL logo on the dial. According to Perramond, this is a watch that is very dear to Mr. Lauren — he feels that the Automotive Skeleton is truly an expression of who he is and his lifestyle, a great translation of his vision. The RL Automotive Collection has been expanded greatly this year, with four additional references. All are powered by Swiss mechanical movements, the “engines” of these fine timepieces in keeping with the Automotive theme. First is the RL Automotive Black Steel, which showcases a hand-wound IWC movement in a 45mm black steel case. This special movement is decorated with vertical Côtes de Genève striping and circular graining (perlage). The RL Automotive Black Steel has a bezel made from rare amboyna burl, like the RL Automotive Skeleton. Next is the Automotive Chronometer Steel, available in 39mm and 45mm cases, both fitted with the elm burl enhanced dial that Ralph Lauren introduced when the first Automotive timepieces were created. Both of these watches are powered by a Selita movement that is COSC-certified for superior accuracy. The Automotive Chronograph Steel 45mm, powered by a Jaeger-LeCoultre movement, also features the elm burl dial, providing an unique backdrop for the chronograph subdials, the running seconds and the date. Circling the dial is a tachymeter scale, emphasizing the precision so valued by Mr. Lauren.

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“Ralph Lauren is a kind of filmmaker. He envisions who his consumer is—a man who loves craftsmanship, loves mechanics, loves the beautiful curves. He can picture the man in the car and he can see this watch on his wrist.” —Luc Perramond

THE ROAD LESS TAKEN When Lauren set out to create his own watch collection, he wanted to produce something special, a watch that he, as an astute collector and lover of fine timepieces, would wear himself. So, he set out to source the best movements, to finish the watches like the very best watchmakers and to concentrate on designs that meant something to him. This dedication to the finest craftsmanship was challenging and time-consuming, but Mr. Lauren has always had a long-term vision. “Ralph Lauren is a kind of filmmaker,” Perramond details. “He envisions who his consumer is — a man who loves craftsmanship, loves mechanics, loves the beautiful curves. He can picture the man in the car and he can see this watch on his wrist. It’s very interesting, his design process. He is completely connected to the world of Ralph Lauren, it’s not just another watch, it’s his watch.” “The artistic direction comes directly from Mr. Lauren; he decides that the next collection will be in a certain world – whether it’s New England, Safari, Old Hollywood, Automotive and more,” Perramond says. Ralph Lauren is the quintessential American designer, the ultimate in American cool. In watches, he’s applied his aesthetic to high watchmaking and the result is a unique mix of authentic American style and high-end Swiss craftsmanship. The best of both worlds, Ralph Lauren-style. —Keith W. Strandberg

Prepairing the wood bezel for the RL Automotive Skeleton

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The RL Automotive CHronograph

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Dial Design Photography by Jens Mortensen

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Roger Dubuis 18k pink gold Hommage Automatic watch, (888)RDUBUIS, rogerdubuis.com, pocket square by Thomas Pink

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Montre Extraordinaire La Rose watch, (877)552-1833, jaeger-lecoultre.com, scarf by Dior

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Blancpain Women Day Night watch, (212)396-1735, blancpain.com, scarf by Dior

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de Grisogono Piccolina S06 watch, (212)439-4248, degrisogono.com, pocket square by Thomas Pink

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Dior La D de Dior watch, (866)675-2078, dior.com, stole by Pologeorgis

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Zenith Star 33mm watch, (866)675-2079, Zenith-watches.com, fur lining by Pologeorgis

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Bell & Ross Camouflage Diamond watch, (888)307-7887, bellross.com, bag by Dior

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WA T C H J O U R N A L OPPOSITE: In the foothills of the Himalayas, planted trees and shrubs help stabilize the terraces

The Audemars Piguet Foundation Supports Conservation and Education Around the World. 103

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Preservation Philosophy

A thriving forest in Borneo

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Protecting and preserving the surroundings in which they operate has been a tradition at Audemars Piguet since its founding in 1875. The manufacture, situated in Le Brassus in the Jura mountains of Switzerland, is surrounded by lush woodlands, and early on the company took care to avoid damaging the natural habitat. Fast forward to 1992, and the official Audemars Piguet Foundation was formed by then-president Jacques-Louis Audemars. The Foundation seeks to support the conservation of forests all over the world, and also funds programs to raise environmental protection awareness in children. The Foundation works closely with the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN), an organization of nearly 1,000 international governmental and non-governmental members, all focused on conservation issues. To date, the Foundation is supporting more that 75 projects globally, with 30 projects in Switzerland. The focus is to serve communities on a very local and personal basis. In Brazil and Namibia, for example, children are taught how to plant trees, the fruit of which can then be sold at local markets. Their teachers are also trained, to be able to continue to educate the community about environmental protection and conservation.

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Jasmine Audemars

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“It’s very nice to find people who are passionate about their projects and you can really do something for the people who live there.”—Jasmine Audemars

The foundation’s current chairperson is Jasmine Audemars, the daughter of Jacques Louis Audemars. “We have to concentrate on our goals, which are the conservation of the forest and the education of children about the environment,” she explains. “We like to partner with small organizations that really work in the field, we don’t want the money to get lost. It’s very nice to find people who are passionate about their projects and you can really do something for the people who live there.” In India, the Foundation works with the local “People to People” initiative in the provinces of Haryana and Madhya Pradesh. The project includes, among other things, creating tree nurseries with local children, with specially trained teachers to educate the children about horticulture. Over 10,000 children were involved in this groundbreaking initiative. Preservation and reinstating traditional practices in Borneo’s family farms and maintaining the biodiversity of the region are another focus of the Foundation. The “Heart of Borneo” project was launched by the Malaysian and Indonesian governments to maintain the cultural heritage linked to local agricultural and natural resource products such as rice, and is being led by the WWF International, who receive funding from the Foundation. “We want to preserve the environment, and at the same time we want to have a partnership with it,” says Audemars. “They go one with the other. What we want is a project where people protect the forest but at the same time people can still go there for their way of life.”—Hyla Bauer

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The Foundation educates children in Borneo BELOW: A nursery grows rosemary in India

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OPPOSITE: The Speake-Marin Kennin-Ji Temple Masters project timepiece

The Human Touch

Hand Craftsmanship is Alive and Well in Watchmaking. 108

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THE HUMAN TOUCH At their best, craftsmanship and hand work serve to connect modern day watchmaking with its past, reminding us of the rich and varied history that we love. Thankfully, more companies are renewing their focus on traditional craftsmanship, bringing the techniques and decorative arts back to life. Following are five examples of excellence in attention to decoration, linking watchmaking’s present to its glorious past. CARTIER “It is in the Maison’s DNA to work on métiers d’art. As a pioneer, we always want to create and to innovate. Cartier’s creations are a link between ancestral techniques and a contemporary design,” says Pierre Rainero, Director of Image, Style and Heritage for Cartier. “Métiers d’art offer the possibility to explore a great field of techniques and colors serving our creations, especially to represent the mythical Panthère. “Cartier has always preserved ancestral know-hows and created new ones,” he continues. “For instance, the gold granulation presented in SIHH 2013 reinterprets a technique invented by Etruscan civilizations in 500 B.C. Another example is the Floral marquetry revealed during SIHH 2014 which was invented by Cartier. Cartier has always been keen on rejuvenating ancestral techniques and the art of filigree was one of them. The first traces of filigree were found in the Royal Tomb of Ur in Mesopotamia in 3000 B.C. This technique, which is registered in the Intangible Cultural Heritage of UNESCO, was unveiled for the first time at SIHH 2015 in a Cartier watch, thanks to the savoir faire of our craftsmen in the Maison des Métiers d’art.” SPEAKE-MARIN “In an age of mass production, corporate branding and disposable products, watches such as the Masters project are a reminder of the value of human skill, individual creativity and craftsmanship which ventures beyond art into culture and from commercialization of a product of today into a collectable item which will endure into the future both functionally and aesthetically,” says master watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin. HERMÈS “Hermès has always been about craftsmanship, which is part of our DNA,” says Philippe Delhotal, Artistic Director of La Montre Hermès: “Craftsmen bring a new approach in terms of creativity and have a specific know-how to highlight our timepieces. It is always a big challenge for them to work on a smaller scale but they appreciate this new field of expression. For Hermès, it is also the opportunity to present our creativity and singularity.”

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The Slim dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;HermĂ¨s Koma Kurabe watch features a porcelain dial decorated with Japanese Aka-e painting

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The Vacheron Constantin Les Univers Infinis Lizard watch

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Detail of the Cartier d’Art Louis Cartier Filigree Panthers Decor watch’s dial in the creation process

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JAEGER-LECOULTRE “The Rare Crafts (Métiers Rares), as we call them at Jaeger-LeCoultre, enhance the value of the watch, making it an even more exclusive and beautiful object, an object of desire and admiration,” says Stéphane Belmont, Creative Director, Jaeger-LeCoultre. “The artisans work by hand, engraving, enameling and setting the ultra-thin watch with precious stones. Their work results in a sophisticated object, with a classic and elegant look. The creation of the Master Ultra Thin Squelette collection was inspired by the antique pocket watch from 1828, that is part of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Heritage collection.” VACHERON CONSTANTIN “The Métiers d’Art Univers Infinis series had been thought to become a collection in which Vacheron Constantin would showcase its traditional decorative crafts—crafts present within the company’s watches since 1755—with a contemporary vision,” explains Christian Selmoni, Artistic Director, Vacheron Constantin. “To do so, we took our inspiration from Maurits (M.C.) Escher (1898 – 1972), a Dutch artist famous for his experiments with plane-filling techniques, shapes, tessellations and transformations. The challenge has been to re-interpret, rethink M.C. Escher’s designs to present six Métiers d’Art watches forming the ‘Univers Infinis’ collection. “This series really demonstrates Vacheron Constantin’s ability to not only keep such traditional decorative crafts alive, but also to open new doors in creative areas where such crafts can be used with a very contemporary vision, paired with a search for excellence, in both aesthetics and technique,” he concludes. —Keith W. Strandberg

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WA T C H J O U R N A L OPPOSITE: A replica of the Breguet watch created for Marie-Antoinette, Queen of France

An Historic Breguet Retrospective Opens in San Francisco. 115

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Time and Design

Art and Innovation in Watchmaking, the most comprehensive exhibit of antique Breguet timepieces ever assembled in the Americas, recently opened at San Francisco’s Legion of Honor museum. The exhibit, with over 70 vintage timepieces on display, highlights the historical context in which the timepieces were produced, and features the first automatic-winding watch amidst Breguet’s many horological innovations. The exhibit is categorized into fifteen sections, and showcases over 70 pieces, all highlighting exceptional craftsmanship and chronicling Breguet’s watchmaking advancements from the first automatic watch to the ultracomplicated watch made for Marie-Antoinette, Queen of France (a replica of the piece is on display). Breguet’s table clocks, marine chronometers, Art Deco clocks and watches, repeating watches and tourbillons are all artfully displayed in the Legion of Honor, which is also home to over fifty Auguste Rodin sculptures. In the early days of watchmaking, timekeeping presented solutions to fundamental problems of the times, Mark A. Hayek, President & CEO of Breguet, commented at the exhibit’s opening. “The travel clock sold to Napoleon in 1798 is one of my favorite pieces in the exhibit. It served an essential function of helping him to coordinate his troops. It helps me to imagine what watchmaking was, and look at it from the perspective of today. ” The clock,

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The Rodin Gallery at the Legion of Honor

F E AT U R E : T I M E A N D DE SIGN

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F E AT U R E : T I M E A N D DE SIGN

An alarm watch from 1836 set in a ring, A travel clock sold to Napoleon in 1798

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which displays the phases of the moon, the date, month, and day of the week, and is a quarter-repeater, is an early precursor to carriage clocks that were subsequently produced in France in the nineteenth century. Another of Hayek’s favorites is an alarm watch designed to be worn as a ring, with the alarm function deploying a small pin to gently prick the wearer’s finger. The ring, sold in 1836, “shows innovation that broke ground and fascinated me—it actually sticks the finger, if you imagine what that was at that time, it goes way beyond simple watchmaking,” he noted. Abraham-Louis Breguet is best known for his invention of the tourbillon mechanism to counteract the fluctuations in timekeeping caused by the watch’s position, earning a patent for his invention on June 26, 1801. This mechanism was produced and sold only 35 times during Breguet’s lifetime, a clear indication of the complexity of creating this exceptional new regulator. Breguet re-introduced the tourbillon in the 1930s, and tourbillons are at the very heart of high watchmaking at Breguet today. “They are always exceptional and very, very beautiful,” says Hayek. The exhibit also highlights simple watches (those without minute repeaters), and the first watches with winding crowns as opposed to winding keys. “When you look closely at the pieces, especially at the simple watches, we see how contemporary they still are,” says Hayek. —Hyla Bauer

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F E AT U R E : BR E A K I NG R E C OR D S

OPPOSITE: The Vacheron Constantin Ref. 57260 timepiece

Breaking Records

Vacheron Constantin Creates the Worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Most Complicated Watch. 118

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Clockwise from top left: the Ref. 57260â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 12-hour worldtime function, Gregorian number of the week and day, seasonal astronomical function, moon phases function

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A 360-degree view of the Ref. 57260

F E AT U R E : BR E A K I NG R E C OR D S

Back in the 1930s, there was a competition among wealthy watch lovers to see who could commission the most complicated timepiece. We all know the winner was the Henry Graves Supercomplication from Patek Philippe. Wealthy industrialists commissioning super complicated watches created a charming story, but it was all for the history books, really. That is, until Vacheron Constantin unveiled the Ref. 57260, the world’s most complicated watch, commissioned by a modern collector. The watch joins the ranks of other commissioned high complication timepieces that Vacheron Constantin has created during its history, including those made for King Fouad 1 of Egypt (1929), King Farouk of Egypt (1946), and Count Guy de Boisrouvray (1948). A unique piece, the new 57260 was in development for eight full years, with a team of three of Vacheron’s master watchmakers collaborating on its creation. The hefty pocket watch is packed with 57 complications, several of which are completely new. Comprised of more than 2800 parts and 31 hands, it weighs a massive 957 grams. The watch is a masterpiece of complications, design, assembly, integration and power management. The reference number Vacheron Constantin created for this piece, Ref. 57260, stands

for the 57 complications and for the 260 years of the brand’s existence. A sample of the complications in this amazing timepiece include: a double retrograde rattrapante chronograph, a Hebraic Perpetual Calendar, Westminster Chiming,

The reference number Vacheron Constantin created for this piece, Ref. 57260, stands for the 57 complications and for the 260 years of the brand’s existence.

Alarm and Special Night-Silence feature, a 12-hour second time-zone governed by a digital world-time display, a dual function perpetual calendar (either Gregorian or ISO 8601), a fully visible armillary sphere tourbillon, a star chart with the night sky and the constellations visible from the owner’s home city, Equation of Time and much more. There are so many complications, in fact,

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that the watch has to have two dials, front and back, to display all the information that the watch provides. It measures an impressive 50.55 mm thick, and 98 mm in diameter. No price has been specified for this incredible timepiece. The Graves Super Complication recently sold at auction for $24 million, so certainly the 57260 piece will retain considerable value. Is there another collector out there, ready to commission an even more complicated watch? We’ll have to wait and see. —Keith W. Strandberg

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WA T C H J O U R N A L OPPOSITE: The Cvstos Challenge Chrono II

SU B STA NC E : ST E E L

Steel Yourself The Appeal of Steelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Strength and Durability in Watchmaking.

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The Glashütte Senator Observer

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Steel is one of the most ubiquitous metals in our daily lives. Not only do we use steel to cook and eat with, it’s around us everywhere, including on our wrists. Without a doubt, stainless steel is the favorite material for watches, as it’s strong, durable, corrosion resistant and relatively inexpensive (compared to titanium, gold and platinum). WHAT IS STEEL? Steel is an alloy of iron with carbon and other elements, and is used in many applications, including buildings, automotive panels, signs and appliances. However, steel is prone to rusting, so steel is protected from rusting by several methods, including internal alloying (stainless steel, for example) and coatings.

There are over 3,200 different grades of steel and at least 57 grades of stainless steel, which is an alloy that has a higher percentage of chromium (10–20%). For watchmaking, one grade is used most – 316L stainless steel, often called surgical steel. 316L is an extra low carbon grade of 316. All 300 grade steels include nickel and for 316, molybdenum is added, which improves resistance to salt water corrosion. PLATINGS AND COATINGS Coloring steel is possible via heattreating (that’s how many brands blue their hands, for example), but heating can adversely affect the corrosion resistance. So, for many years, steel has been protected and colored by platings and coatings. In the past, gold plated watches were very popular, as they provided the

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look of gold at a reasonable price. Gold plating is achieved by depositing a thin layer of gold onto the steel. The thicker the gold plating, the deeper the gold color and the higher the cost. BLACK OUT Physical Vapor Deposition (PVD) is a way to coat steel with a material that can protect and color it. Diamond Like Carbon (DLC) is one of the materials that is applied to the steel via PVD. The most common is black coating, giving the steel a different look. Steel is a dependable and beautiful material for watches, making fine timepieces tough and affordable. —Keith W. Strandberg

WA T C H J O U R N A L OPPOSITE: The Cvstos Challenge Chrono II

The Montblanc Star Twin Moonphase

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M A N U FAC T U R E : F I N I S H I N G

OPPOSITE: The Bovet Amadeo Fleurier BraveHeart timepiece

The Devil is in the Details Talking Finishing with Bovet’s Pascal Raffy

A lot of work goes into a fine timepiece, but finishing represents the most time-consuming aspect of the production of a watch. Finishing is where all the various pieces and parts are decorated, polished, angled, beveled and otherwise “finished” so the watch can be as spectacular as possible. One of the watch brands that does an amazing job of finishing, and puts this prowess on display in most of their timepieces, is Bovet. I caught up with Bovet’s owner and CEO Pascal Raffy recently. How important is the finishing to Bovet? Why? When the Bovet brothers manufactured their first pocket watches, the watchmaking world discovered a new definition of dexterity in watchmaking arts. Grand Feu enameling, of course, brought fame to the Maison from its foundation in 1822. But Edouard Bovet was also one of the first to decorate the entirety of the movement’s components and surfaces, and ever since then, the quality of the details and their finishes have been recognized as the ultimate reference—to such an extent that the first “showcased” movements are attributed to Edouard Bovet with the invention of the transparent case back. Over two centuries of existence, our Maison has

continually put decorative watchmaking arts at the heart of each timepiece we produce. I personally attach great importance to sustaining the métiers d’art and the unparalleled expertise of our artisans. In preserving and fostering values of excellence despite fleeting trends and fashions, we have been able to exhibit the noblest expression of time since 1822. As true luxury is found in the attention devoted to the smallest of details, the decoration and finishes of our movements and timepieces are of the utmost importance. How much time does the finishing require? This depends on the nature of the component to be decorated and the type of finish, but no compromises are made in terms of aesthetic or technical quality. For instance, some components require less than an hour to be produced and be functional, while we set aside two whole days for the artisanal finishes that meet our quality criteria. Are there specialized tools involved? The craftsman’s hand and traditional tools already in use at the dawn of the 19th century make up most

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of the technologies we use for decoration and finishing work. However, we do occasionally use certain modern machines when they enable us to achieve our quality standards (particularly for producing circular graining and Côtes de Genève). What are the different types of finishing? All the traditional ancestral techniques are represented in our workshops: Circular graining, sunray brushing, snailing, straight graining the flanks, satin brushing, polishing sinks, chamfering, black polishing, rounding-off, guillochage, Clous de Paris, Côtes de Genève and, of course, hand engraving, which is present in all the movements that we manufacture. Is the goal different with each type of finishing? Of course, each type of decoration has its particular scope of application. The aim is to enhance the volumes of the movement and to create contrasts between the different surfaces of the various components. How experienced do the artisans have to be to do the type of finishing you require? Experience and expertise are acquired over time. This is even truer when it comes to the métiers d’art. This means that we can’t demand the same degree of experience of an artisan who has just left art college as of one who has decades of practice. Everyone has their own place in our workshops and their different stages create positive synergy. Over and above experience, we expect a passion for the trade, attention to detail and a love of haute horlogerie from our artisans. This is what enables each of us to surpass ourselves, to overcome our own limits and help the decorative watchmaking arts to progress with the utmost respect for tradition.

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The Bovet Amadeo Fleurier; VIrtuoso IV timepiece

M A N U FAC T U R E : F I N I S H I N G

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The movement of the Bovet Mille Fleurs timepiece

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Do customers and collectors value the finishing? Collectors and connoisseurs of artisanal fine watchmaking distinguish a haute horlogerie timepiece from an outstanding timepiece precisely by the standard of its finishing work. For those with less watchmaking knowledge, this is the principal explanation given to help them distinguish an exceptional timepiece from the rest. Has the style and way finishing is done changed at all over the years? In most cases, we use traditional haute horlogerie finishing styles and methods, particularly those responsible for the success of our Maison since its foundation. If we take the iconic example of Fleurisanne engraving which has graced our movements and cases since 1822, this has been interpreted in various different ways. This is occasionally the result of technical considerations, or more generally, the personal interpretation of each artisan. When it comes to innovation, if a new type of finish enables us to achieve excellence while respecting tradition, I will adopt it. What makes Bovet stand out from the crowd, in terms of finishing? We have always followed our own path, adhering to the quality criteria that characterize us. When I bought Bovet in 2001, decorative arts were not as popular as they are today. However, I continued to preserve the soul of our Maison by ensuring trades such as engraving and miniature painting endured, even though at the time they were at a high risk of completely dying out. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the coherence of this long-term vision as well as the total absence of compromise on quality that has best defined the identity of Bovet since 1822. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;As told to Keith W. Strandberg

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The Montblanc Heritage Chronometrie ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph

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Montblanc L E G A C Y: M O N T B L A N C

Evolution in Time 131

The Montblanc Manufacture in Le Locle

L E G A C Y: M O N T B L A N C

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You might recognize the name Montblanc for its superlative writing instruments. Montblanc was established in Hamburg, Germany in 1906 and has evolved from producing only fine writing instruments into other luxury goods. The iconic Montblanc emblem is now a symbol of excellence in leather, accessories fragrances, sunglasses and more. In 1997, Montblanc opened its watchmaking division in Le Locle, Switzerland, and in 2008, the brand took over the famous Minerva manufacture in Villeret, Switzerland. The legacy of Montblanc is now intertwined with the history of Minerva.

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1858

1923

At the age of 18, Charles Ivan Robert creates a “Watchmaking Comptoir” at his family home in Villeret in the watchmaker valley of St. Imier, which will later become the Minerva manufacture.

Invention of one of the first chronograph calibers for wristwatches in the 1920s, caliber 13/20 with Breguet hairspring and anchor escapement.

L E G A C Y: M O N T B L A N C

1936

1902

Launch of the 1/100th-of-a-second timer with the central second hand rotating one revolution per second. The Minerva timepieces were used as the official timekeeping instrument at the Winter Olympics Games in Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany.

Launch of Minerva manufacture calibers including pocket watches with an anchor escapement and others with a cylinder escapement.

1908 Development of the first Minerva 19” pocket watch chronograph caliber 19-09. The Manufacture rapidly gained recognition as one of Switzerland’s most revered specialists in chronometric functions for precise time measuring.

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1948 Launch of the legendary Minerva Pythagoras caliber. The construction of the movement’s bridges is done according to the golden ratio. Its design codes, which epitomized classical Swiss fine watchmaking, serve today as the inspiration and basis for the design of the Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie Collection.

L E G A C Y: M O N T B L A N C

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1997

2014

Foundation of the Montblanc Manufacture in Le Locle. The Manufacture is housed in an Art Nouveau villa built in 1906, the same year Montblanc was established in Hamburg, Germany.

Presentation of the Metamorphosis II. One of the most complex timepieces ever developed in Montblanc’s manufacture workshops in Villeret: A watch with two faces and two different functionalities. The first face of the Metamorphosis is that of a classical watch, the second face is that of a sporty monopusher chronograph.

2008 Montblanc takes over the Minerva manufacture in Villeret. Montblanc’s Movement & Innovation Excellence Center is located in the same building in which the legendary Minerva Manufacture was founded in 1858 and focuses on the development, prototyping and assembly of all inhouse movements from innovative and groundbreaking high complications to small highly functional complications.

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2015 Launch of the Heritage Chronométrie collection. Inspired by the legendary Minerva Pythagorus timepiece, it unites the fundamental virtues of fine watchmaking, the best Swiss craftsmanship, and Montblanc’s own tradition, reflected in refined, elegantly pure cases and innovative mechanisms.

L E G A C Y: M O N T B L A N C

ABOVE: Watchmakers at work in Le Locle BELOW: The Manufacture employs state-of-the-art machinery

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U N I D I R E C T I O NA L B E Z E L

HOROLOGY TERMINOLOGY

WATCH JOURNAL

Alarm Automatic Movement Chronograph Rattrapante Chronograph Dual Time Equation of Time Flyback Chronograph GMT Annual Calendar Perpetual Calendar Simple Calendar Minute Repeater Grande Sonnerie Unidirectional Bezel Tourbillon Moon Phase Power Reserve Grand Complication Jumping Hour World Time Escapement Balance Wheel Gear Train Tachymeter Telemeter Pulsometer Big Date Retrograde Display Rotor 136

WATCH JOURNAL

HOROLOGY TERMINOLOGY

Unidirectional Bezel [\ˌyü-ni-də-ˈrek-shnəl, -dī-, -shə-nəl\ \ˈbē-zəl\]

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An essential function for a mechanical diving watch, a unidirectional bezel can only be rotated counter-clockwise, providing extra safety for the diver. For timing an underwater dive, the diver aligns the pointer on the bezel with the minute of his start time in order to track the elapsed time of his dive. Because the bezel can only move in a counter-clockwise direction, it ensures that the diver will not over-estimate his dive time, thus adding an extra level of safety. In the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscape, water-resistant to 300 meters, the contrasting dial and luminescent gold hour-markers ensure optimal readability. blancpain.com (212) 396-1735

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THE LIST Top Watch Retailers Across the Country

THE LIST

ARIZONA E.D. Marshall Jewelers 10261 N. Scottsdale Rd. Scottsdale, AZ 85253 (480) 922-1968 Brands: Blancpain, Bremont, Franck Muller, Louis Moinet, Maurice Lacroix, Piaget Tourneau 7014 E. Camelback Rd. Scottsdale, AZ 85251 (480) 429-2304 Brands: Bell & Ross, Bremont, Tudor

CALIFORNIA Ben Bridge 7007 Friars Rd. San Diego, CA 92108 (619) 291-7572 Brands at both stores: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe

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Bryant & Sons 812 State St. Santa Barbara, CA 93101 (805) 966-9187 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Breitling, Cartier, Patek Philippe C.J. Charles 1135 Prospect St. La Jolla, CA 92037 (858) 454-5390 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, Breguet, Cartier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre Chatel & Co Jewelers Lincoln Street between Ocean & 7th Avenues Carmel, CA 93921 (888) 524-2835 Brands: Bell & Ross, Hermès, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Richard Mille, Zenith David Orgell 262 N. Rodeo Dr. Beverly Hills, CA 90210

(310) 273-6660 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Girard-Perregaux, JeanRichard, Maurice Lacroix, Perrelet, Ulysse Nardin Feldmar Watch Co. 9000 W. Pico Blvd. Los Angeles, CA 90035 (310) 274-8016 Brands: Blancpain, Breguet, Bremont, Carl F. Bucherer, Hermès, Omega Geary's 360 N. Rodeo Dr. Beverly Hills, CA 90210 (310) 887-4250 Brands: Patek Philippe, Rolex Milano Bijou 928 S. Western Ave. Los Angeles, CA 90006 (213) 382-1700 Brands: Vacheron Constantin, JaegerLeCoultre, Franck Muller, IWC Polacheck’s Jewelers 4719 Commons Way Calabasas, CA 91302 (818) 225-0600 Brands: Cartier, Chanel, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Tudor Shreve & Co. Stanford Shopping Center Palo Alto, CA 94304 (650) 327-2211 Brands: Corum, IWC, Omega, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Rolex Topper Fine Jewelers 1315 Burlingame Ave. Burlingame, CA 94010 (650) 347-2221 Brands: Ball, Ernst Benz, Glashütte Original, Longines, Omega, Zenith Tourbillon Boutique South Coast Plaza Costa Mesa, CA 92626

(714) 800-1925 Brands at both stores: Breguet, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Jaquet Droz, Omega, Swatch 231 Post St. San Francisco, CA 94108 (415) 362-1525

1227 Prospect St. La Jolla, CA 92037 (858) 459-2222

1 Mohegan Sun Blvd. Uncasville, CT 06382 (860) 862-9900

3832 Cross Creek Rd. Malibu, CA 90265 (310) 456-2555

46 La Salle Rd. West Hartford, CT 06880 (860) 521-3015

COLORADO

136 Main St. Westport, CT 06107 (203) 227-1300

Tourneau 3333 S. Bristol St. Costa Mesa, CA 92626 (714) 966-1204 Brands include: Baume & Mercier, Devon, Frédérique Constant, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Patek Philippe, Tudor

Hyde Park Jewelers Cherry Creek Shopping Center Denver, CO 80206 (303) 333-4446 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre

7007 Friars Rd. San Diego, CA 92108 (619) 296-8463

Oster Jewelers 251 Steele St. Denver, CO 80206 (303) 572-1111 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Bell & Ross, Bremont, Carl F. Bucherer, Dior, Ulysse Nardin

845 Market St. San Francisco, CA 94103 (415) 974-1846 Traditional Jewelers 817 Newport Center Dr. Newport Beach, CA 92660 (949) 721-9010 Brands at both stores: Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Cartier, JaegerLeCoultre, Patek Philippe, Rolex

Betteridge Jewelers 141 E. Meadow Dr. Vail, CO 81657 (970) 790-6560 Brands: Bell & Ross, IWC, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Rolex, Tudor

200 Post St. San Francisco, CA 94108 (415) 421-2600

Betteridge Jewelers 117 Greenwich Ave. Greenwich, CT 06830 (203) 869-0124 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Ralph Lauren

Westime 216 North Rodeo Dr. Beverly Hills, CA 90210 (310) 888-8880 Brands at all stores: Audemars Piguet, Zenith, Franck Muller, Omega, Richard Mille, Ulysse Nardin 8569 Sunset Blvd. West Hollywood, CA 90069 (310) 289-0808

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CONNECTICUT

Lux Bond & Green 140 Glastonbury Blvd. Glastonbury, CT 06033 (860) 659-8510 Brands at all stores: Breitling, Cellini, Montblanc, Rolex, TAG Heuer

169 Greenwich Ave. Greenwich, CT 06830 (203) 629-0900 Manfredi Jewels 121 Greenwich Ave. Greenwich, CT 06830 (203) 622-1414 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Breguet, F.P.Journe, Franck Muller, Richard Mille, Vacheron Constantin Shreve, Crump & Low 125 Greenwich Ave. Greenwich, CT 06830 (800) 225-7088 Brands: Breitling, Bremont, Piaget, Roger Dubuis, TAG Heuer

FLORIDA Altier Jewelers 701 S. Federal Hwy. Boca Raton, FL 33432 (561) 395-3462 Brands: Cartier, Linde Werdelin, Patek Philippe, Ralph Lauren King Jewelers 18265 Biscayne Blvd. Aventura, FL 33160 (305) 935-4900 Brands: Bell & Ross, Breguet, Carl F. Bucherer, Devon, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Roger Dubuis

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Hamilton Jewelers 215 Worth Ave. Palm Beach, FL 33480 (561) 659-6788 Brands at both stores: Breguet, Bulgari, Patek Philippe, Ralph Lauren The Gardens Mall Palm Beach Gardens, FL 33410 (561) 775-3600

Levinson Jewelers 888 E. Las Olas Blvd. Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301 (954) 462-8880 Brands: Bulgari, Franck Muller, Hermès, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Roger Dubuis Mayors Jewelers Town Center at Boca Raton Boca Raton, FL 33431 (561) 368-602 Brands at all stores: Cartier, Bulgari, Breitling, Patek Philippe 342 San Lorenzo Ave. Coral Gables, FL 33146 (305) 446-1233

4200 Conroy Rd. Orlando, FL 33431 (407) 363-5740 8001 S. Orange Blossom Trl. Orlando, FL 32809 (407) 859-3116 140 University Town Center Dr. Sarasota, FL 34243 (941) 893-1124

Tourneau 5494 Tamiami Trl. N. Naples, FL 34108 (239) 591-1342 Brands include: Baume & Mercier, Frédérique Constant, Longines, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Tourneau 320 San Lorenzo Ave. Coral Gables, FL 33146 (305) 448-6878 Aventura Mall Aventura, FL 33180 (305) 932-2280 Bal Harbour Shops Bal Harbour, FL 33154 (305) 866-4312 175 Worth Ave. Palm Beach, FL 33480 (561) 832-8812 The Gardens Mall Palm Beach Gardens, FL 33410 (561) 694-6028 Weston Jewelers 1728 Main St. Weston, FL 33326 (954) 389-7990 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Chopard, Dior, Hublot, Montblanc Yamron 5555 Tamiami Trl. N. Naples, FL 34108 (239) 592-7707 Brands: Breitling, Bulgari, Harry Winston, IWC, Patek Philippe, Ulysse Nardin

Tourneau 3393 Peachtree Rd. N.E. Atlanta, GA 30326 (404) 760-1883 Brands: Bell & Ross, Blancpain, IWC, Panerai, Vacheron Constantin

HAWAII Ben Bridge Jeweler 1450 Ala Moana Blvd. Honolulu, HI 96814 (808) 955-0177 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe Tourneau 2301 Kalakaua Ave. Honolulu, HI 96815 (808) 922-4111 Brands: Blancpain, Devon, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Vacheron Constantin

ILLINOIS C. D. Peacock Northbrook Court Northbrook, IL 60062 (847) 564-8030 Brands at all stores: Cartier, IWC, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Rolex, TAG Heuer Oakbrook Center Oak Brook, IL 60523 (630) 571-5355 Woodfield Mall Schaumburg, IL 60173 (847) 619-6560 Old Orchard Center Skokie, IL 60077 (847) 679-1837

Brands: Baume & Mercier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, TAG Heuer Trabert & Hoeffer 111 E. Oak St. Chicago, IL 60611 (312) 787-1654 Brands: Breguet, Cartier, Franck Muller, JaegerLeCoultre, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin

KANSAS Tivol 4721 W. 119th St. Overland Park, KS 66209 (913) 345-0200 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Cartier, David Yurman, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Rolex

MARYLAND Liljenquist & Beckstead 7101 Democracy Blvd. Bethesda, MD 20817 (800) 719-1190 Brands: Breguet, Cartier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Omega, Patek Philippe Radcliffe Jewelers 1848 Reisterstown Rd. Pikesville, MD 21208 (410) 484-2900 Brands at both stores: Cartier, Chanel, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Vacheron Constantin 825 Dulaney Valley Rd. Baltimore, MD 21204 (410) 321-6590

MASSACHUSETTS

Tourbillon Boutique 545 N. Michigan Ave. Chicago, IL 60611 (312) 836-3800 Brands: Breguet, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Jaquet Droz, Omega, Swatch

Lux Bond & Green 416 Boylston St. Boston, MA 02116 (617) 266-4747 Brands at both stores: Cellini, Patek Philippe, Rolex, Shinola, TAG Heuer, Tudor

Tourneau 835 N. Michigan Ave. Chicago, IL 60611 (312) 266-7600

60 Central St. Wellesley, MA 02482 (781) 235-9119

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Royal Jewelers 58 Main St. Andover, MA 01810 (978) 475-3330 Brands: Breguet, Cartier, David Yurman, Panerai, Piaget, TAG Heuer Shreve, Crump & Low 39 Newbury St. Boston, MA 02116 (617) 267-9100 Brands at both stores: A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, Blancpain, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin 232 Boylston St. Chestnut Hill, MA 02467 (800) 225-7088 Tourneau Copley Place Boston, MA 02116 (617) 267-8463 Brands include: Breguet, Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, TAG Heuer, Tudor Burlington Mall Burlington, MA 01803 (781) 272-8463

MICHIGAN Darakjian Jewelers 101 Willits St. Birmingham, MI 48009 (888) 843-6659 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Carl F. Bucherer, Devon, Maurice Lacroix, Montblanc, Ulysse Nardin

Tapper's 27716 Novi Rd. Novi, MI 48377 (248) 465-1800 Brands at all stores: Cartier, David Yurman, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Raymond Weil, Tag Heuer, Tudor 6337 Orchard Lake Rd. West Bloomfield, MI 48322 (248) 932-7700 2800 W. Big Beaver Rd. Troy, MI 48084 (248) 649-2000

T OP R ETA I L E R S

7457 N. Kendall Dr. Miami, FL 33156 (305) 667-7517

Tourbillon Boutique Miami Design District 140 N.E. 39th St. Miami, FL 33137 (305) 576-4571 Brands: Breguet, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Jaquet Droz, Omega, Swatch

GEORGIA

THE LIST

Les Bijoux 306 Plaza Real Boca Raton, FL 33432 (561) 361-2311 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Roger Dubuis, Vacheron Constantin, Van Cleef & Arpels

2223 N. Westshore Blvd. Tampa, FL 33607 (813) 354-8080

WA T C H J O U R N A L

MINNESOTA

THE LIST

Ben Bridge Mall of America Bloomington, MN 55425 (952) 814-9356 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe Wixon Jewelers 9955 Lyndale Ave. S. Bloomington, MN 55420 (952) 881-8862 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Rolex, Tudor

MISSOURI Clarkson Jewelers Clarkson/Clayton Shopping Center Ellisville, MO 63011 (636) 227-2006 Brands: Carl F. Bucherer, Frédérique Constant, Patek Philippe, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Tudor Tivol 220 Nicols Rd. Kansas City, MO 64112 (816) 531-5800 Brands: Cartier, David Yurman, Panerai, Patek Philippe, TAG Heuer, Tudor

T OP R ETA I L E R S

NEVADA Bellusso at The Palazzo 3325 Las Vegas Blvd. S. Las Vegas, NV 89109 (702) 650-2988 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, Blancpain, Breguet, Cartier, IWC, Vacheron Constantin Ben Bridge 1300 W. Sunset Rd. Henderson, NV 89014 (702) 456-8807 Brands at both stores: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe 3200 S. Las Vegas Blvd. Las Vegas, NV 89109 (702) 733-0003

Horologio Fine Watches 3377 S. Las Vegas Blvd. Las Vegas, NV 89109 (702) 733-0016 Brands: Bell & Ross, Blancpain, Breitling, Franck Muller, Omega, Ulysse Nardin Roman Times Jewelers 3500 Las Vegas Blvd. Las Vegas, NV 89109 (702) 733-8687 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Franck Muller, IWC, JaegerLeCoultre, Roger Dubuis, Ulysse Nardin Tourbillon Boutique The Shops at Crystals Las Vegas, NV 89158 (702) 597-0284 Brands: Breguet, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Jaquet Droz, Omega, Swatch Tourneau Time Dome The Forum Shops at Caesars Las Vegas, NV 89109 (702) 732-8463 Brands: Bremont, JaegerLeCoultre, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Tudor, Vacheron Constantin Wynn Las Vegas Wynn Esplanade and Encore Esplanade (702) 770-3520 Brands: Breguet, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Piaget

NEW JERSEY

Tourbillon Boutique The Mall at Short Hills Short Hills, NJ 07078 (973) 564-5864 Brands: Breguet, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Jaquet Droz, Omega, Swatch

510 Madison Ave. New York, NY 10022 (212) 758-5830

NEW YORK

630 Old Country Rd. Garden City, NY 11530 (516) 873-0209

Cellini 509 Madison Ave. New York, NY 10022 (212) 888-0505 Brands at both stores: A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, Bell & Ross, Franck Muller, Girard-Perregaux, Greubel Forsey, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, Ulysse Nardin, Vacheron Constantin Waldorf Astoria 301 Park Ave. New York, NY 10022 (212) 751-9824 London Jewelers 2 Main St. East Hampton, NY 11937 (631) 329-3939 Brands at all stores: Franck Muller, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Tudor

3 Bryant Park New York, NY 10036 (212) 278-8041

125 Westchester Ave. White Plains, NY 10601 (914) 397-2301 160 Walt Whitman Rd. Huntington Station, NY 11746 (631) 427-2649

OREGON Ben Bridge 9508 S.W. Washington Square Rd. Portland, OR 97223 (503) 603-1285 Brands: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe Shreve & Co. 640 Southwest Broadway Portland, OR 97205 (971) 295-5555 Brands: Baume & Mercier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Longines, Panerai, Patek Philippe

PENNSYLVANIA Wempe 700 Fifth Ave. New York, NY 10019 (212) 397-9000 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Breguet, Breitling, Cartier, Chopard, Glashütte Original, IWC, JaegerLeCoultre, Longines, Montblanc, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Roger Dubuis, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Vacheron Constantin

Govberg Jewelers 65 St. James Pl. Ardmore, PA 19003 (610) 664-1715 Brands at both stores: Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Dior, Panerai, Parmigiani, Patek Philippe, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Vacheron Constantin 1521 Walnut St. Philadelphia, PA 19102 (215) 546-6505

NORTH CAROLINA 47 Main St. Southampton, NY 11968 (631) 287-4499 28 School St. Glen Cove, NY 11542 (516) 671-3154

Hamilton Jewelers 92 Nassau St. Princeton, NJ 08542 (609) 683-4200 Brands: Cartier, Chanel, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe, TAG Heuer

180 Wheatley Plaza Greenvale, NY 11548 (516) 621-8844

The Timepiece Collection 58 E. Palisade Ave. Englewood, NJ 07631 (201) 894-1825 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Girard-Perregaux, Harry Winston, Hermès, Omega, TAG Heuer

Tourneau TimeMachine 12 E. 57th St. New York, NY 10022 (212) 758-7300 Brands: Ball, Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Blancpain, Breguet, Breitling, Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Patek Philippe, Piaget, Tudor, Vacheron Constantin

2046 Northern Blvd. Manhasset, NY 10030 (516) 627-7475

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Windsor Jewelers 6809-D Phillips Pl. Ct. Charlotte, NC 28210 (704) 556-7747 Brands at both stores: Bell & Ross, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Rolex, TAG Heuer, Tudor, Ulysse Nardin

Tourneau 160 N. Gulph Rd. King of Prussia, PA 19406 (610) 491-8801 Brands: Ball, Baume & Mercier, Blancpain, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Tudor

TENNESSEE 526 S. Stratford Rd. Winston-Salem, NC 27103 (336) 721-1768

OHIO Mann Jewelers 26300 Cedar Rd. Beachwood, OH 44122 (216) 831-1119 Brands: Patek Philippe, Breguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai

King Jewelers 4121 Hillsboro Pike Nashville, TN 37215 (615) 724-5464 Brands: Cartier, Chanel, IWC, Jaquet Droz, Rolex, TAG Heuer

WA T C H J O U R N A L

TEXAS Bachendorf's 8400 Preston Rd. Dallas, TX 75225 (214) 692-8400 Brands: Chanel, Chopard, IWC, Montblanc, Omega, TAG Heuer

Ben Bridge Barton Creek Square Mall Austin, TX 78746 (512) 329-9066 Brands at all stores: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe The Domain, 3401 Esperanza Crossing Austin, TX 78758 (512) 491-8014 8687 N. Central Express Dallas, TX 75225 (214) 369-2277

Tourneau 13350 N. Dallas Pkwy. Dallas, TX 75240 (972) 661-1503 Brands include: Ball, Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Bremont, Devon, Frédérique Constant, Hamilton

& Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Panerai, Patek Philippe 1432 4th Ave. Seattle, WA 98101 (206) 628-6800 Tourbillon Boutique Fairmont Olympic Hotel Seattle, WA 98101 (206) 442-9300 Brands: Breguet, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Jaquet Droz, Omega, Swatch

THE LIST

Tourbillon Boutique 8687 N. Central Expy. Dallas, TX 75225 (214) 346-3431 Brands: Breguet, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Jaquet Droz, Omega, Swatch

Tourbillon Boutique The Galleria 5085 Westheimer Rd. Houston, TX 77056 (713) 850-1056 Brands: Breguet, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Jaquet Droz, Omega, Swatch

5015 Westheimer Rd. (713) 871-8282 Houston, TX 77056 15900 La Cantera Pkwy. San Antonio, TX 78256 (210) 694-5654 Zadok Jewelers 1749 Post Oak Blvd. Houston, TX 77056 (713) 960-8950 Brands: Breguet, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Piaget, TAG Heuer, Vacheron Constantin

VIRGINIA 7040 N. Mesa St. El Paso, TX 79912 (915) 584-4700 303 Memorial City Mall Houston, TX 77024 (713) 935-9499

5135 W. Alabama St. Houston, TX 77056 (713) 960-1998 Eiseman Jewelers 8687 N. Central Express Dallas, TX 75225 (214) 369-6100 Brands: Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Hermès, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin

T OP R ETA I L E R S

1096 Willowbrook Mall Houston, TX 77070 (281) 894-5799

Liljenquist & Beckstead Jewelers Tysons Galleria McLean, VA 22102 (703) 448-6731 Brands: A. Lange & Söhne, Breguet, Cartier, JaegerLeCoultre, Panerai, Patek Philippe Tourneau Fashion Centre at Pentagon City Arlington, VA 22202 (703) 414-8463 Brands: Baume & Mercier, TAG Heuer, Cartier, IWC, Rolex

WASHINGTON Ben Bridge 143 Bellevue Sq. Bellevue, WA 98004 (425) 454-9927 Brands at both stores: Baume

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HUMOR

WA T C H J O U R N A L

JAMIE GOODMAN

“I dont know man, she looks kind of complicated.”

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WA T C H J O U R N A L

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MADE IN

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BR-X1 CHRONOGRAPHE TOURBILLON The BR-X1 CHRONOGRAPH TOURBILLON is an ultra-sophisticated watch which combines the great mechanical complexity of an exceptional calibre with the extreme design of a professional instrument. This haute horlogerie mechanism combines a number of complications: a tourbillon, a column wheel skeleton chronograph with mono-pusher, a 30-minute counter with jumping hand and a 4-day power reserve. Bell & Ross Inc. +1.888.307.7887 | www.bellross.com

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