Watch Journal Jan/Feb 2015

Volume 18, N 1

All That’s Good in Time

January/February 2015

Watch Journal Featuring: The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Double Flying Tourbillon

The Arts & Culture Issue

181_COVER.indd 1

$10 USD

02 >

Also: An Inside Look at Skeletonizing. Crafting the Perfect Dial.

Masters of Métiers D’Art. The Legendary Anita Porchet.

The Magic of Damascus Steel.

18/12/2014 13:10

181_ADS.indd 1

18/12/2014 16:57

H

Bell & Ross Inc. +1.888.307.7887 | www.bellross.com | Download the BR SCAN app to reveal exclusive content

181_ADS.indd 64

18/12/2014 16:57

Breguet, the innovator.

High frequency and high precision

A concentrated blend of horological innovations, the Classique Chronométrie 7727 with its balance fitted on magnetic pivots and operating at a frequency of 10 Hz achieves an average rate of -1 to +3 seconds per day. Notably thanks to complete mastery of silicon properties and magnetism, this new milestone in the field of high-precision mechanical watchmaking embodies the spirit of innovation of Abraham-Louis Breguet. History is still being written...

BREGUET BOUTIQUES – NEW YORK 646 692-6469 – BEVERLY HILLS BAL HARBOUR

T7727_BB-WatchJournal_234x298.indd 1 181_ADS.indd 65

3 10 8 6 0 - 9 9 11

3 0 5 8 6 6 - 10 6 1 – L A S V E G A S 7 0 2 7 3 3 - 74 3 5 – T O L L F R E E 8 7 7 - 4 0 3 - 8 1 6 2 – W W W . B R E G U E T . C O M

21.11.14 09:30 18/12/2014 16:58

181_ADS.indd 2

18/12/2014 18:39

From the invention of the chronograph to the Best of the Best Red Dot Award, watches for initiates since 1806 United States and Canada - FitzHenry Consulting at (561) 212-6812 International - Louis Moinet, Switzerland at +41 32 753 68 14, info@louismoinet.com

181_ADS.indd 3

19/12/2014 10:59

www.louismoinet.com 181_ADS.indd 4

19/12/2014 11:00

181_ADS.indd 5

0000001443.indd 1

19/12/2014 11:01

181_ADS.indd 6

19/12/2014 11:01

25.08.2014 18:11:17

181_ADS.indd 7 WatchJournal_CD13833_GrandBallPS.indd 1

18/12/2014 18:48

www.dior.com - 1-866-675-2078

DIOR VIII GRAND BAL “PLISSÉ SOLEIL” 36MM. STEEL, DIAMONDS AND MOTHER-OF-PEARL. EXCLUSIVE “DIOR INVERSÉ 11 1/2” AUTOMATIC CALIBRE, 42-HOUR POWER RESERVE. LIMITED EDITION OF 888 PIECES.

181_ADS.indd 8

18/12/2014 18:48 12/16/14 11:34 AM

(10041 )

Watch Journal Magazine, August 2014

The glasshütte observatory home of wempe’s Superlative chronometer

181_ADS.indd 9 10041 watch journal sprd_2014-08_04.indd 2-3 WJ30_Wempe_0611_mk.indd 2

18/12/2014 18:49 6/11/14 11:52 AM

WJ30_W

The Wempe Chronometerwerke Glashütte i/SA – Tourbillon Precision – made in germany

The world’s only officially certified Chronometer Tourbillon, handcrafted in Glashütte, the German center for fine watchmaking. Tested in accordance with the DIN standard, with twin-barrel movement, 40 hour power reserve in platinum. Limited to 25 pieces worldwide.

11:52 AM

181_ADS.indd 10 WJ30_Wempe_0611_mk.indd 3

18/12/2014 18:49 5/24/14 1:03 AM 6/11/14 11:52 AM

CHART

WA T C H J O U R N A L

This past year was a very good one for Swiss watches in the US. In 2014, the industry increased its exports to this country by more than 5 percent over the previous year, and since 2012, that number has increased by 8 percent. This translates to significant increases in watch sales at the retail level across America. By contrast, Swiss watch exports to the 29 other top global markets were up only 3 percent窶馬early 40 percent off the US pace.

10

181_INTROS.indd 10

18/12/2014 18:52

WA T C H J O U R N A L

CHART

Globally, the Swiss-watch pie is divided into five regional markets.

Last year ended with Asia maintaining the largest slice at 53.9 percent (down nearly 2 percent from the previous year), followed by Europe at 30.1 percent, the Americas at 14 percent, Africa at 1.1 percent and Oceania at less than 1 SOURCES: www.fhs.ch, Federation of the Swiss watch industry FH:FH

percent. Last year, the Americas’ slice was nearly 2 percent larger than its piece the previous year.

11

181_INTROS.indd 11

18/12/2014 18:52

NEW YORK BEVERLY HILLS DALLAS CHICAGO BAL HARBOUR BETTERIDGE GREENWICH MOYER’S FINE JEWELERS CARMEL BENARI JEWELERS EXTON, NEWTOWN SQUARE A SELECTION OF TIMEPIECES IS NOW AVAILABLE AT RALPHLAUREN.COM

181_ADS.indd 11

18/12/2014 18:49

RALPH LAUREN THE BLACK SAFARI FLYING TOURBILLON

45MM MODEL SHOT-BLASTED STAINLESS STEEL CASE SELF-WINDING TOURBILLON MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT EQUIPPED WITH A MICRO-ROTOR SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL CASE BACK 40-HOUR POWER RESERVE SWISS MADE

181_ADS.indd 12

18/12/2014 18:50

WA T C H J O U R N A L

Contents DEPARTMENTS 10 Chart

CONTENTS

18 Masthead 20 Editor’s Letter 22 Publisher’s Letter 24 Intelligence 44 Happenings 58 Profile Anita Porchet, Guillaume Tetu, Christophe Haspel 68 Collection Tom Kalenderian, Jay Parker, Dave Dawson 74 Play The NoMad Bar

VO L U M E 18 , N

1

75 Stay Hotel Zoo 76 Getaway Iniala Beach House 77 Necessities

14

181_INTROS.indd 14

19/12/2014 10:52

Trim 9,25 inch

Trim 11.75 inch

Meisterstück Heritage Moonphase Crafted for New Heights The Montblanc Meisterstück Heritage Moonphase features the moonphase complication in the spirit of traditional fine watchmaking. Housed in a 39mm stainless steel case the self-winding Calibre MB 29.14 indicates the Moonphase in crescent shaped aperture and makes this refined timepiece a true lifetime companion.

Visit and shop montblanc.com

181_ADS.indd 14

18/12/2014 18:55

WA T C H J O U R N A L

Contents FEATURES 96 Roger Dubuis

CONTENTS

The manufacture expands its global presence while maintaining an independent spirit.

104 A Grand Celebration Marking 175 years of watchmaking with new introductions at Patek Philippe.

110 The Mirror of a Watch’s Soul The aesthetic impact of a dial is one of the most important considerations in watchmaking.

114 High Calibre A tour of Cartier’s newest movements and timepieces.

118 Manufacture Understanding skeletonization as practiced

by Vacheron Constantin.

124 Substance A steel-forging process once used by the Vikings makes an appearance in luxury timepieces.

VO L U M E 18 , N

1

126 Style Exploring métiers d’art on some of the most intricate and colorful watch dials on the planet.

136 Legacy Discover the history of Officine Panerai, from its beginnings as a watchmaker’s shop to its tenure as the timepiece supplier to the Royal Italian Navy.

141 Watch Advisor Watch Journal’s brain trust of top watch sellers offers expert advice on selecting, wearing and caring for watches.

16

181_INTROS.indd 16

19/12/2014 10:52

181_ADS.indd 16

18/12/2014 18:55

WA T C H J O U R N A L

Watch Journal

MASTHEAD

Chief Creative Officer Marc Lotenberg SALES AND MARKETING

EDITORIAL

Publisher Glen B. Bowen

Editor in Chief Hyla Bauer

Sales & Marketing Director Suzanne Mitchell

Creative Direction NoĂŤ & Associates

Advertising Directors Adriana Gelves Laurel Nuzzo

International Editor Keith W. Strandberg

Luxury Director Julia Farah

Assistant Editors Roxy Kirshenbaum Hally Wolhandler

Marketing Manager Hayley Merrill

Editorial Coordinator Kay Hodgdon

OPERATIONS

Contributing Writer Carol Besler Editors at Large Spencer Bailey Marie Picon

Controller Miles Bingham Operations Manager Taryn Watzman

Contributing Editor Justin Min

Executive Coordinator Laurie Sadove

Digital Imaging Ned Robertson Editorial Interns Ayla Brewster Sarah McLean

WATCH JOURNAL LLC Board of Directors Adam Sandow & Eric Crown Chief Executive Officer Marc Lotenberg

ONLINE

ADVERTISING & EDITORIAL OFFICE

#watchjournal watchjournal.com Twitter: @watchjournal Instagram: @watchjournal Facebook: facebook.com/watchjournal

VO L U M E 18 , N

1

Watch Journal, LLC 110 E. 25th St., Fourth Floor New York, NY 10010 info@watchjournal.com

SUBSCRIPTIONS To subscribe, visit us online at: watchjournal.com/subscribe One-Year Print and Digital: US: $60 / International: $110

Single issue shipped: US: $15 / International: $30

Digital Only: iPad: $14.99, Digital back issues: $6.99 ISSN N 2325-4130 Watch Journal publishes nine issues a year. Watch Journal is a registered trademark of Watch Journal, LLC. Copyright 2014, Watch Journal. All rights reserved. Reproduction or transmission in whole or in part in any form or by any means without written permission is prohibited. Opinions expressed in Watch Journal are not necessarily those of the publisher. Watch Journal, its affiliates, employees, contributors, writers, editors and publisher accept no responsibility for inaccuracies, errors or omissions in the information and/or advertisement contained herein. The publisher assumes no responsibility for the claims made by advertisers or the merits of products or services advertised or promoted in Watch Journal. The publisher makes no representations or warranties of any kind, expressed or implied, as to the information, services, contents, trademarks, patents, materials or products included in this magazine. Advertisers and their agencies assume all liability for advertising content. All images reproduced in Watch Journal have been accepted by the publisher on the condition that such images are reproduced with the knowledge and prior consent of the photographer and/or other creator and the subject. As such, the publisher is not responsible for any infringement of the copyright or otherwise arising from any publication in Watch Journal.

Printed in the USA. To subscribe, visit us online at watchjournal.com/subscribe. Email: subscriptions@watchjournal.com.

18

181_INTROS.indd 18

18/12/2014 18:53

history a n d heroes.

luminor marina 1950 3 days automatic (ref. 312)

PANERAI BOUTIQUES ASPEN • BAL HARBOUR SHOPS • BEVERLY HILLS • BOCA RATON • DALLAS FORUM SHOPS AT CAESARS • LA JOLLA • NAPLES • NEW YORK • PALM BEACH pa n e r a i . c o m

181_ADS.indd 18

18/12/2014 18:55

WA T C H J O U R N A L

Editor’s Letter

Are the Métiers d’Art Overexposed?

EDITOR’S LET TER

The Importance of Preserving the Highest Standards.

The decorative arts in watchmaking were nonexistent for many years. When the quartz crisis happened back in the 1970s, the entire mechanical watchmaking industry was in danger of being obliterated, so the métier d’art artisans understandably took a back seat to the task of saving mechanical watches.

Subsequently, as there was little or no demand, the industry lost more than a generation of these artisans. In fact, the people who worked hard to resurrect these traditional arts, like the late Dominique Baron, often had to teach themselves how to do certain types of enamel and other métiers d’art, rediscovering ancient techniques or reinventing them.

Once mechanical watches were back in vogue, companies like Vacheron Constantin, Ulysse Nardin and Jaeger-LeCoultre were the leaders in reviving métier d’art and putting it back into the forefront. Today, however, it seems that every company—even those without a heritage of working in the decorative arts—is doing some sort of métier d’art. As a result, this amazing wealth of artistic creation is in danger of being made trivial by overexposure.

Sure, it’s fantastic to have watches that have feathers, straw and wood marquetry, mosaic work, traditional French paillon ornaments and more, but how much can the market really absorb?

Don’t get me wrong—I am a big fan of métier d’art. I thought the Vacheron Constantin Les Masques series, which debuted in 2009 and relaunched the métiers d’art on a grand scale, was brilliant and worthy of all the praise it received. And I am the first in line when enamelist Anita Porchet showcases her latest masterpiece.

At the same time, I think that the métiers d’art should be very exclusive and restricted to a few of the very best examples. When companies unveil a whole slew of métier d’art pieces, it devalues how much work goes into them.

I love métier d’art, so I hope watch companies do it sparingly and only when it is really, truly special.

K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G

— Keith W. Strandberg International Editor

“Like limited editions, the métiers d’art only really work in very small doses created with the highest standards.’’

20

181_INTROS.indd 20

19/12/2014 11:49

L I F E

I S

A B O U T

M O M E N T S

C E L E B R AT I N G E L E G A N C E S I N C E 1 8 3 0

PROMESSE TWO-TONE, 30 MM www.baume-et-mercier.com

shop and engrave yours at baume-et-mercier.com

181_ADS.indd 20 WatchJournal_BAM13827_EngagmntPrmsse10183.indd 1

18/12/2014 20:02 12/15/14 2:02 PM

WA T C H J O U R N A L

Publisher’s Letter

Upward Trend

GL EN B . B OW EN

PUBLISHER’S LET TER

Luxury Timepiece Sales in the US Are Increasing, and Watch Journal Follows Suit.

As America’s recovery from the Great Recession continues, financial news sources are filled with reports about rebounding retail sales and consumer spending. There are more millionaires in the US than in any other country— more than double the number of millionaires in China. These heavy-lifters are the folks with ample disposable cash to purchase luxury watches: affluent consumers in the US are buying luxury goods and services at record-setting speeds, and this is having a significant impact on fine watches.

Switzerland is the center of fine watchmaking, so we can determine how well the global markets for luxury watches are doing by tracking Swiss watch exports.

This past year was a very good year for Swiss watches in the US. The Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FH), which is headquartered in Bienne, is the industry’s leading trade association. The FH gathers data from more than 500 trade members representing more than 90 percent of Swiss watch manufacturers. In 2014, the industry increased its exports to this country by more than 5 percent over the previous year, and since 2012, that number has increased by 8 percent. This translates to significant increases in watch sales at the retail level across America. By contrast, Swiss watch exports to the 29 other top global markets were up only 3 percent—nearly 40 percent off the US pace.

Furthermore, Swiss watches retailing at more than $6,000 increased nearly 8 percent last year compared to the previous year, while watches costing between $1,000 and $6,000 were down 3.8 percent. I’m expecting more of the same this year.

Globally, the Swiss watch pie is divided into five regional markets. Last year ended with Asia maintaining the largest slice at 53.9 percent (though down nearly 2 percent from the previous year), followed by Europe at 30.1 percent, the Americas at 14 percent, Africa at 1.1 percent and Oceania at less than 1 percent. Last year, the Americas’ slice was nearly 2 percent larger than its piece the previous year.

So what does this mean for luxury watch sales in the US? The market for luxury watches has rebounded, and with the economy continuing to recover into 2015, we feel pretty certain that Watch Journal readers will be adding to their collections this year.

This is also the reason that we’ve decided to give Watch Journal readers more love—to be exact, 50 percent more. The publishing schedule for the magazine will increase to nine issues this year. For more information about our increased circulation, and for more watch news, please visit our new website at watchjournal.com.

Enjoy!

—Glen B. Bowen Publisher

“There are more millionaires in the US than in any other country—more than double the number of millionaires in China.’’

22

181_INTROS.indd 22

18/12/2014 18:53

Skeleton Tourbillon Manufacture Manual winding. 170 hours power reserve. Silicium Technology.

18 ct rose gold case. Also available in 18 ct white gold.

Limited Edition of 200 pieces.

For a catalog, call 561-988-8600 or U LY S S E - N A R D I N . C O M

181_ADS.indd 22

usa13@ulysse-nardin.com

18/12/2014 20:02

INTELLIGENCE

WA T C H J O U R N A L

ABOVE: The BR-X1 deconstructed OPPOSITE: The Bell & Ross BR-X1 Skeleton Chronograph

FLYING HIGH

Coined by the brand as the “ultimate utility watch,” Bell & Ross’ new BR-X1 Skeleton Chronograph is being released in a limited edition of 250 pieces. With a design inspired by 21st century fighter planes, the watch’s case is made of titanium and covered in a band of ceramic and rubber for extra durability. The watch measures 45 mm in diameter and is water-resistant to 100 meters. The sapphire crystal provides clear visibility of the movement, skeletonized in-house. The chronograph’s minute timer display is crafted in ultra-light aluminum and is shaped like the blades of an engine turbine. bellross.com 24

181_INTELLIGENCE.indd 24

18/12/2014 19:36

WA T C H J O U R N A L

INTELLIGENCE

25

181_INTELLIGENCE.indd 25

18/12/2014 19:36

INTELLIGENCE

WA T C H J O U R N A L

RECORD-BREAKING

Piaget will introduce a new ultra-thin handwound flyback chronograph in its iconic Altiplano collection at the 25th Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie. Setting a new record in the ultra-thin field, this model has an impressive 4.65 mm movement thickness housed in a 8.24 mm case.

Developed in La Côte-aux-Fées, the birthplace of the Manufacture Piaget, the expertly crafted Altiplano took two years to develop. Building an extremely slim chronograph was the objective of the in-house watchmakers and developers. The 883P caliber chronograph movement boasts a 50-hour power reserve, and its columnwheel is responsible for controlling all of its phases, with a vertical coupling-clutch system ensuring perfect precision. A 24hour dual-time indication at 9 o’clock is a further testament to the technological feat of this new timepiece. The Altiplano Chronograph’s case measures 41 mm, and the watch is available in rose gold and a whitegold version with a diamond-set bezel. piaget.com

ABOVE: The Piaget Altiplano Chronograph in 18 karat rose gold LEFT: The Piaget Altiplano Chronograph in 18 karat white gold set with 56 brilliant-cut diamonds

26

181_INTELLIGENCE.indd 26

18/12/2014 19:37

TEL

+1 570 970 8888 |

INFO@MAITRESDUTEMPS.COM

NEW YORK / GREENWICH / PHILADELPHIA / LOS ANGELES / LA JOLLA / LAS VEGAS / LONDON / PARIS / DUBAI / OMAN / AZERBAIJAN / HONG KONG / MACAU / BANGKOK / TOKYO / KUALA LUMPUR / TORONTO / MEXICO CITY / CARACAS / GUATEMALA CITY

181_ADS.indd 38

18/12/2014 20:05

WA T C H J O U R N A L

INTELLIGENCE

ALL IN THE FAMILY

In 2015, IWC Schaffhausen will mark the 75th anniversary of a long-standing classic, the Portuguese, soon to be known as the Portugieser. In celebration of this anniversary, IWC is premiering a new complication to add to its roster: the annual calendar.

The watch boasts a seven-day power reserve, indicated on the dial at 3 o’clock, held in two barrels. The calendar display is located at 12 o’clock on the dial, with the month, date and day in distinct semicircular windows. The deep azure blue of the dial evokes the seas surrounding Portofino, Italy. The new 52850 caliber required five years to develop, and marks the beginning of IWC’s plans to produce a larger range of of in-house caliber families in years to come. Measuring 44.2 mm in diameter, the case has a grooved bezel, while the dial design features a railway-track-style chapter ring and Arabic numerals—making it quite similar aesthetically to IWC’s iconic 1939 Portugieser. iwc.com

The Portugieser Annual Calendar in steel

28

181_INTELLIGENCE.indd 28

19/12/2014 11:05

Vanguard Collection

181_ADS.indd 24

Š2015 - The Franck Muller Group, All rights reserved

212.463.8898 WWW.FRANCKMULLER.COM

18/12/2014 20:02

INTELLIGENCE

WA T C H J O U R N A L

DRIVING STYLE

Inspired by the instrument panel of Ralph Lauren’s legendary 1938 Bugatti Type 57SC Atlantic Coupe, Ralph Lauren introduces the Ralph Lauren Automotive Chronograph for 2015. The timepiece’s curved case-horns and chronograph pushers reflect the sleek, powerful lines of the automobile’s body. Crafted from specially chosen loupe d’orme, or elm burl wood, the handmade wooden dial mirrors the interior trim of the Type 57SC’s cockpit. Veneers with the correct concentration of knots and grains were painstakingly selected for the dial, echoing the automobile’s instrument panel. A partnership with Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre for the Automotive Chronograph resulted in a self-winding caliber RL751A/1 movement, which has a 65-hour power reserve. The distinctive Côtes de Genève and perlage finishing on the movement are exclusive to Ralph Lauren. ralphlaurenwatches.com

ABOVE AND LEFT: The Ralph Lauren Automotive Chronograph in steel

30

181_INTELLIGENCE.indd 30

18/12/2014 19:37

181_ADS.indd 26

18/12/2014 20:03

INTELLIGENCE

WA T C H J O U R N A L

ABOVE: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Sphérotourbillon.in motion

WALKING ON THE MOON Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new Duomètre Sphérotourbillon Moon watch is a horological masterpiece, with its perpetual calendar designed to remain accurate for a full 3,887 years when properly adjusted. The watch also features a tourbillon that not only performs a full turn around its titanium axis, but also spins around a second axis inclined at a 20-degree angle, symbolizing the inclination of the earth that follows an imaginary line stretching to Ursa Minor.

The watch’s design lives up to these horological accomplishments: The moon phase indicator at 3 o’clock is crafted of lapis lazuli, and the tourbillon at 9 o’clock is flanked by nickel and silver “stairways.” It is also visible through an opening in the side of the case. The watch measures 42 mm in diameter, is just 14.3 mm deep and is made of platinum. jaeger-lecoultre.com

LEFT: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Sphérotourbillon in 18 karat white gold

32

181_INTELLIGENCE.indd 32

18/12/2014 19:37

GRAND TOURING SPORT Citizen’s exclusive caliber 9012 automatic movement with specially-designed rotor and 24 jewels viewed through an exhibition caseback.

One-way rotating bezel. Water resistant 300m. 44mm case. Sapphire crystal.

Š 2015 Citizen Watch Company

181_ADS.indd 28 14-COA-0889A_WatchJournal_Jan-Feb.indd 1

citizen-signature.com

18/12/2014 20:03 12/12/14 9:17 AM

INTELLIGENCE

WA T C H J O U R N A L

TOUGH AS NAILS

The Luminor 1950 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic Ceramica, a new release from Officine Panerai, encases the P.9100 manufacture chronograph movement in a new black matte ceramic case. The piece remains faithful to Panerai’s design aesthetic, while the ceramic case, based on zirconium dioxide, is five times harder than steel but much lighter in weight. The ceramic is highly scratch-resistant, and every component of the case undergoes several rounds of working and firing. Push-pieces situated at 8 o’clock (flyback, reset) and 10 o’clock (start, stop) control the chronograph’s functions. The 44 mm case is water-resistant to 100 meters, and the movement, easily visible through the sapphire caseback, holds a power reserve of 72 hours. panerai.com

ABOVE: The dial of the Luminor 1950 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic RIGHT: Front and back views of the timepiece

34

181_INTELLIGENCE.indd 34

18/12/2014 19:38

CHALLENGE

SEA-LINER

212.463.8898 WWW.CVSTOS.COM

181_ADS.indd 30

CVSTOS NEW SEA LINER CORP WATCH JOURNAL.indd 1

18/12/2014 20:03

5/27/14 4:33 PM

INTELLIGENCE

WA T C H J O U R N A L

The Louis Moinet Vertalor Tourbillon in 18 karat rose gold

GOLDEN BRIDGES Ateliers Louis Moinet’s new Vertalor timepiece represents another step forward for the Neuchâtel-based manufacture. In the new watch, the tourbillon’s cage is hung from a three-armed gold bridge, easily visible through the sapphire crystal both from the front and the back of the watch. The tourbillon’s hand has a tip in the form of a star, reminiscent of Louis Moinet’s 1825 design of the Julius Ceasar clock. At the 9 o’clock mark sits the brand’s mirror-polished Fleur-de-lis symbol, the coat of arms of Louis Moinet’s hometown of Bourges.

The timepiece measures 47 mm and has a power reserve of three days. The watch is available in either white or pink gold. louismoinet.com

36

181_INTELLIGENCE.indd 36

19/12/2014 11:06

©2015 SEIKO WATCH CORPORATION

IN T HE S E I KO N AT IO N , O U R SAT E L L I T E CON N E C T IO N S A D J U S T TIME TO THE ZONE YOU ’RE IN.*

*Time zone data as of January 2014. Changes to time zones occurring after this date are not programmed and manual adjustment may be required.

Forward focused. Sky’s the limit. This optimistic outlook connects the Seiko Nation. And creates the only watch with a low-energy-consumption GPS receiver.

Now the satellites revolve around you, as the ASTRON GPS SOLAR CHRONOGRAPH connects to the GPS network, identifying location and adjusting the time to your current zone.* Solar-powered, planet-friendly, so no battery change is ever needed, Seiko puts the progress in GPS. SeikoUSA.com

PROGRESS TO SEIKO

181_ADS.indd 32

18/12/2014 20:03

INTELLIGENCE

WA T C H J O U R N A L

TRAVEL TIME

The New Greubel Forsey GMT Black timepiece features a titanium case treated with vacuum deposited ADLC. Requiring years of research and development, the GF05 in-house movement features a 24-second tourbillon inclined at a 25 degree angle, GMT function, three-dimensional globe for day/night indication, rotating disc with 24 different time zones, daylight savings indication and 72-hour power reserve. The case measures 43.5 mm.

The timepiece will be produced in a limited edition of 22 pieces. greubelforsey.com

JET SET

The new Traveller Large Date, Moon Phases & GMT by Girard-Perregaux represents a new level of craftsmanship for the brand, with a sharp focus on the needs of the world traveler. With a day/ night indicator, easy-to-read date and second hand, the Traveller Large Date, Moon Phases & GMT is equipped with a self-winding manufacture caliber, which is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, and 46 hours of power reserve. The case measures 44 mm, and the watch is available in steel and pink gold. A limited edition series of 50 pieces in pink gold will be dedicated to John Harrison, the famed British marine clockmaker born in the late 17th century, who built the first marine clock that served as a reliable longitudinal calculation instrument. girard-perregaux.com

ABOVE: The Greubel Forsey GMT Black RIGHT: The GIradr-Perregaux Traveller Large Date, Moon Phases & GMT

38

181_INTELLIGENCE.indd 38

18/12/2014 19:38

M

M

Y

Y

181_ADS.indd 34

18/12/2014 20:03

WA T C H J O U R N A L The Ulyase Nardin Lady Diver in 18 karat rose gold

INTELLIGENCE

SPORTY CHIC

The new Lady Diver by Ulysse Nardin artfully combines fine watchmaking mechanics and a sporty, feminine aesthetic. The self-winding timepiece houses the UN815 caliber and features a date display at the 6 o’clock position, easily visible in all light conditions through the antireflective sapphire crystal. The new Lady Diver holds a 42 hour power reserve, and is water resistant to 100 meters, perfect for the active lifestyle. The timepiece is available in 18 karat white or rose gold, with an enduring rubber strap and deployant clasp for comfort and security.

The watch measures 40 mm and features a diamond-set bezel. ulysse-nardin.com

The Carl F. Bucherer Alacria Mini TwoTone in 18 karat rose gold and steel

FEMININE MYSTIQUE

Carl F. Bucherer is introducing a new model into its Alacria line: the Alacria Mini TwoTone. The ultra-feminine piece combines the soft appeal of 18 karat rose gold with the strength of stainless steel to a stunning visual effect. The signature style of the Alacria collection is preserved in the rectangular case with its convex flanks, and extends to the bracelet, where the curves of the links echo the female form. The dial is silver-colored and divided by two narrow light-colored longitudinal stripes and a central, more robust, darker stripe. The hours at 6 o’clock and 12 o’clock are marked by rose gold Roman numerals, while the other hours are marked by rose gold indices.

The watch is also available in a version with a partially diamond-set bezel and it is water-resistant to 30 meters. carl-f-bucherer.com

40

181_INTELLIGENCE.indd 40

18/12/2014 19:38

PRECISION INSTRUMENTS FOR TIMEKEEPING

CHRONOSCOPE DLC

www.ernstbenz.com

London Jewelers - East Hampton & South Hampton, NY l Levinson Jewelers - Fort Lauderdale, FL l Westime - Beverly Hills & West Hollywood, CA E.D. Marshall Jewelers - Scottsdale, AZ l Piccione’s - Lyndhurst, OH l Topper Fine Jewelers - Burlingame, CA l Moray’s - Miami, FL John Varvatos Boutiques - San Francisco, West Hollywood, Costa Mesa, Malibu, CA - Soho, Bowery, Madison Ave., East Hampton, NY - Las Vegas, NV Miami Beach, Bal Harbour, FL - Boston, MA - Houston, TX - London, England - Toronto, Canada - Mexico City, Mexico - Bangkok, Thailand Diamonds International - St. Thomas, St. Maarten, St. Lucia, Aruba, Barbados, Nassau, Grand Cayman, Jamaica, Belize, Cozumel Cabo San Lucas, Puerta Vallarta & Key West l Peyrelongue - Mexico City l Berger - Mexico City

181_ADS.indd 36

18/12/2014 20:04

INTELLIGENCE

WA T C H J O U R N A L

ABOVE AND LEFT: The new MB&F HM6 Space Pirate

ADVENTURES IN SPACE

Inspired by the Japanese anime TV series Capitaine Flam (from MB&F’s founder Maximilian Büsser’s childhood), the HM6 Space Pirate is a spaceship for the wrist. The fictional character’s spaceship, known as “the Comet,” had two spheres joined by a connecting tube, which gave Büsser his initial ideas for the watch’s design. In each of the four corners of HM6’s biomorphic case is a 360 degrees sphere capped by transparent sapphire crystal domes. Hours and minutes are displayed in large, highly visible numerals by two semispherical indications that rotate vertically. A 60-second flying tourbillon is housed in the central dome and has a retractable, titanium protective shield that blocks harmful UV rays from incurring any damage. The gentle curves and “eyes” may be reminiscent of a friendly extraterrestrial life form, but the exceptionally durable exoskeleton boasts an aeronautic grade Ti-6AL-4 titanium case, a metal that is stable at more than 400 degrees celsius. mbandf.com

42

181_INTELLIGENCE.indd 42

18/12/2014 19:38

181_ADS.indd 50

18/12/2014 20:05

WATCH JOURNAL

HAPPENINGS

KINETIC ENERGY

Audemars Piguet, along with the Peabody Essex Museum, presented Theo Jansen’s Strandbeests at Art Basel Miami Beach, concluding a week of events with a reception at their oceanfront exhibition space. Guests including Freida Pinto, Lena Herzog, Mathieu Lehanneur, Kurt Hentschlager and tennis champion Serena Williams arrived to celebrate the end of the Art Basel festival and Jansen’s Strandbeest: The Dream Machines of Theo Jansen, which is set to tour in 2015 and 2016. Guests had the opportunity to view the pieces, which are kinetic sculptures made from materials such as recycled plastic tubes, alongside sketches of Jansen’s creations. Also on display were Lena Herzog’s exquisite photographs of the sculptures themselves. audemarspiguet.com

Above: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak in 18 karat pink gold Right: François-Henry Bennahmias, CEO of Audemars Piguet, Serena Williams, Freida Pinto and Xavier Nolot, CEO of Audemars Piguet North America

44

181_HAPPENINGS.indd 44

18/12/2014 19:42

WATCH JOURNAL

HAPPENINGS

45

181_HAPPENINGS.indd 45

18/12/2014 19:42

WATCH JOURNAL

HAPPENINGS

PRESERVATION DEDICATION Blancpain and its CEO and President Mark A. Hayek welcomed dignitaries and friends of the brand to Cap D’Antibes for the launch of Blancpain Ocean Commitment, which unifies all of Blancpain’s support of oceanic environmental causes under one title.

Blancpain also launched a website for the endeavor, blancpain-ocean-commitment.com, and a new collectible book illustrating the history of Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms diving watches and underwater exploration. Blancpain has always advocated for ocean preservation and protection, and to commemorate this dedication to water life, they unveiled a new limited-edition diving watch, the Ocean Commitment Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback. blancpain.com

46

181_HAPPENINGS.indd 46

18/12/2014 19:42

WATCH JOURNAL

HAPPENINGS

WRAPPED UP IN ART Hublot teamed up with Paris-born street artist Mr. Brainwash to present an exclusive installation at its Bal Harbour boutique during the recent Art Basel Miami Beach. The boutique itself was turned into a piece of art for the evening, with Mr. Brainwash’s work completely wrapped around the store’s exterior. The celebration marked the installation’s first public unveiling, and guests including Russell Simmons, Swizz Beatz, Sammy Sosa and Eva Longoria enjoyed cocktails while browsing artwork and timepieces. At the close of the event, Ricardo Guadalupe and the ubiquitous Mr. Brainwash, who is known for his work on Madonna’s “Celebration” album cover, presented a piece of art to Longoria to benefit the Eva Longoria Foundation. hublot.com

ABOVE: Rick de la Croix, Mr. Brainwash, Eva Longoria and Ricardo Guadalupe LEFT: The Hublot Big Bang Ferrari in 18 karat rose gold OPPOSITE PAGE, LEFT: Laurent Ballesta under the sea OPPOSITE PAGE, RIGHT: The Blancpain Ocean Commitment Bathyscape Chronograph Flyback OPPOSITE PAGE, BOTTOM: Blancpain vice president and head of marketing Alain Delamuraz, Marc Hayek, Chef Joël Robuchon and crew

47

181_HAPPENINGS.indd 47

18/12/2014 19:42

WATCH JOURNAL

HAPPENINGS

Winning Style

LEFT: The Longines Conquest Classic BELOW: Juan Carlos Garcia racing in the Breeder's Cup World Championships

On November 1, Swiss watch brand Longines acted as the official partner, timekeeper and watch of the 31st Breeder’s Cup World Championships in Santa Anita, California. The Championships are one of the top thoroughbred horse racing events in the world, and attract the best horses and trainers worldwide. Longines brought their timeless elegance and precision timing to the day’s events. Longines vice president and head of international marketing Juan-Carlos Capelli, along with the company’s US brand manager Jennifer Judkins, presented the owners, breeders, trainers, jockeys and stable staff of all three winning horses with the brand’s Conquest Classic watches, inspired by a design first created in 1881 for race goers and jockeys. longines.com

48

181_HAPPENINGS.indd 48

18/12/2014 19:42

181_ADS.indd 48

18/12/2014 20:06

WATCH JOURNAL

HAPPENINGS

INNOVATION CELEBRATION This year’s Rolex Awards, held at London’s Royal Society, honored five Young Laureates from around the world. On November 17, 2014, young innovators from India, Rwanda, Cameroon, Italy and Saudi Arabia were recognized for the philanthropic work they have done in using technology to improve health and happiness in various communities. Since 1976, Rolex has held awards for the combined efforts of innovation and philanthropy, and in 2009 added a special division for Young Laureates to encourage and honor young people doing outstanding work throughout the world. Each of the Young Laureates received a Rolex timepiece and 50,000 CHF to use to further his or her work. rolex.com

RIGHT: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual BELOW: The 2014 Young Laureates

50

181_HAPPENINGS.indd 50

19/12/2014 11:09

Distributed by:

181_ADS.indd 40

ENVOY TRADING LLC

T (310) 402-1530

E ebragg@envoytradingllc.com

18/12/2014 20:07

WATCH JOURNAL BELOW: The Roger Dubuis Velvet Haute Joaillerie timepiece with rubies

HAPPENINGS

RIGHT: Jean-Marc Pontroué and Stephanie Seymour

THE VELVET TOUCH For a third consecutive year, Roger Dubuis hosted a private dinner during Art Basel Miami Beach. This past year’s dinner, hosted by Roger Dubuis CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué and supermodel Stephanie Seymour, took place on December 3 at the Thompson Miami Beach Hotel and included guests Russell Simmons, MoMA PS1’s Klaus Biesenbach, Jonathan Cheban and Geoff Stults. DJ Hannah Bronfman set the aural backdrop, and guests were welcomed by a fountain bubbling with Dom Pérignon. Roger Dubuis used the evening to debut the Velvet Haute Couture collection of three luxurious new watches for women. Artist Franck Bouroullec took the guests by surprise with a live painting performance. The evening was crafted much like Roger Dubuis watches: with luxury and excellence in mind. rogerdubuis.com

52

181_HAPPENINGS.indd 52

19/12/2014 11:10

181_ADS.indd 44

18/12/2014 20:07

WATCH JOURNAL

HAPPENINGS

EXCELLENCE LAUDED Geneva’s Grand Théâtre de Genève served as the backdrop for the 14th edition of the Grand Prix D’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) prize-giving ceremony on October 31. With more than 1,500 guests in attendance and hosted by former Miss Switzerland winner Melanie Winiger and French writer, literary critic, and TV presenter Frédéric Beigbeder, this year’s international jury awarded 16 prizes to watchmakers demonstrating supreme excellence and expertise in the field of watchmaking. Presented on-stage by the Federal Councillor Johann Schneider-Ammann, Breguet was given the “Aiguille d’Or” award for the Classic Chronométrie model. The Ladies’ Watch Prize went to Blancpain’s Women Off-centred Hour, while the men’s watch prize was awarded to Urban Jürgensen & Sonner for its Central Second model. The 14th edition of the award ceremony included record participation from many independent companies as well as representation from major watchmaking groups worldwide. gphg.org

ABOVE: Prize winner for Montre Calendrier A. Lange & Söhne BOTTOM RIGHT: Guillaume Barazzone, national councillor and administrative councillor of the city of Geneva, Carlo Lamprecht, President of the Foundation of the GPHG, Johann Schneider-Ammann, Federal councillor and Pierre Maudet, State councillor

54

181_HAPPENINGS.indd 54

18/12/2014 19:43

181_ADS.indd 46

18/12/2014 20:07

WATCH JOURNAL

HAPPENINGS

GLAM GALA At this year’s Art Basel Miami Beach, IWC Schaffhausen celebrated their new Portofino Midsize collection with a gala and exhibition titled “Timeless Portofino,” a collection of celebrity photographs shot by Peter Lindbergh.

IWC CEO Georges Kern and host Jason Alexander welcomed guests including James Marsden, Emily Blunt, Adriana Lima and Karolina Kurkova to this special event. The exhibit featured photographs of Hollywood stars and supermodels who act as IWC brand ambassadors: Blunt, Kurkova, Lima, Cate Blanchett, Christoph Waltz, Ewan McGregor and Zhou Xun. The original shoot took place in Portofino, Italy, where Lindbergh took a total of 21,000 photos. After the dinner, Solange Knowles performed for the starstudded crowd at an after-party on the lawn of the W Hotel South Beach. iwc.com

ABOVE: The IWC Portofino Midsize Automatic Moon Phase RIGHT, TOP TO BOTTOM: Jason Alexander and Georges Kern, CEO of IWC Schaffhausen; near right, Emily Blunt and Lennox Lewis

56

181_HAPPENINGS.indd 56

18/12/2014 19:43

perrelet.com • 954.575.7980 • info@perreletusa.com 181_ADS.indd 58

18/12/2014 20:08

PROFILE G U I L L AU M E T E T U

GUILLAUME TETU

By Keith W. Strandberg

Living the Dream with the Founder of Hautlence.

58

181_PROFILES.indd 58

19/12/2014 11:13

PROFILE

If there was a Swiss dream similar to the American one, Guillaume Tetu, co-founder of Hautlence and the brand’s chief operating officer, is living it.

Tetu has many years of experience in the watch industry, including time spent in design at TAG Heuer. He left TAG more than 10 years ago to start his own brand, Hautlence. (The name is an anagram of Neuchatel, the village where the brand was founded.)

MAN WITH A MISSION

didn’t have any production yet when he put his deposit down. He bought from a 3-D picture on the website. That’s my favorite feeling, to see people wearing my watches and hearing why they love them. We create and produce the products, and then we have the privilege of sharing them with the people who own them.” haultence.com

“Since I am a product designer, I wanted a real new way to tell the time.”

— Guillaume Tetu “I am really having fun,” he continues.

“We have made a lot of mistakes, but we can redo the launch and it’s a great improvement. We are really working together like a family. I am smiling every day.”

A watch industry veteran, Tetu admires Urwerk and Vianney Halter. “What Felix Baumgartner from Urwerk does is amazing,” Tetu says. “He really motivated me to start as an independent brand, as well as Vianney Halter. They are my masters and mentors.”

G U I L L AU M E T E T U

Now, 10 years later, Hautlence is still thriving while many other independent brands have vanished. Tetu credits its survival with a mission to do things differently.

“Hautlence was founded on real innovation.

There are enough brands—there wasn’t any room for a new one that did things the same old way. I wanted to change time-telling using mechanical structures. We included visible links from architecture—I love buildings where you can see the frames and structures, with the glass floating, and everything is visible, and I wanted to do that with Hautlence. You can see what is useful in the building, and this is what we did with our watches.”

sell his image—he wanted to be involved in the creation of watches. He wanted to combine his art with our watches, so we decided to do street art, which is very new—like our brand—and it’s something Cantona collects.

When street art started, the real artists said that they were the bastards of the arts.

When we arrived in 2004, they said we were the bastards of watchmaking, yet after ten years, we are still here.”

KEEPING IN TOUCH ARTFUL PARTNERSHIP For the brand’s 10th anniversary, Tetu decided to work with an ambassador for the first time. “When we decided to approach a famous person, the person we thought of was Eric Cantona, because he was a famous football player, but he had a secret life,” Tetu says. “When he was 22 years old, he started collecting art. Just purchasing his image was not my goal, and he would never

One of the things Tetu really loves is talking directly with end customers, something he has been doing a lot of lately as Hautlence does its World Tour with Eric Cantona. “At the beginning, the first customer wearing our watch and giving us feedback was really a special experience,” Tetu remembers. “He was from India and he contacted us through the website, and he wanted to buy the first watch ever. We

LEFT: Gulillaume Tetu ABOVE LEFT : The HL ti 01 ABOVE RIGHT: The Destination 02 NEAR ABOVE: The Hautlence HL2.5

59

181_PROFILES.indd 59

19/12/2014 11:13

PROFILE CHRISTOPHE HESPEL

CHRISTOPHE HESPEL

By Keith W. Strandberg

Guiding a New Generation in the Artistic Crafts.

60

181_PROFILES.indd 60

19/12/2014 11:13

LEFT: Christophe Hespel NEAR LEFT: The Vacheron Constantin Metiers D'art Fabuleux Ornements Indian Manuscript watch

PROFILE

Christophe Hespel is the director of École Boulle, one of Europe’s largest art and design schools. Vacheron Constantin recently announced a long-term partnership with the school as part of their ongoing support of the artistic crafts worldwide. Initially, the École Boulle’s students will work on creating presentation boxes for Vacheron Constantin timepieces and producing visuals of watch dials for the Métiers d’Art Fabuleux Ornements collection. It’s a great opportunity for the students to see how the creation process really works, and Vacheron Constantin benefits by seeing fresh ideas from students outside of the watchmaking world.

GOLDEN OPPORTUNITY

EDUCATION DEDICATION École Boulle trains about 300 students a year in design and artistic crafts. “I also have a sort of moral mission to pass on the skills, the high standards and the excellence of the French craftsmanship tradition, while modernizing it,” Hespel says. “Boulle’s courses partially meet the requirements of Vacheron Constantin in this domain: marquetry, chasing, engraving, jewelry-making. While we do not have a micromechanical section, the grouping of several departments means we are fairly attuned to Vacheron Constantin’s focus on artistic crafts.”

Hespel began his career as a literature teacher, but has been managing academic institutions for the last 25 years. “I have mostly steered various technical high schools in the region of Paris, and I’ve taken over certain establishments that were having difficulty,” he says. “Management, cultural, international and artistic affairs, and communication, are all fields of interest that are essential in guiding complex entities.

“Arts are a family tradition,” he continues.

“What one must remember is that art helps us to live better, with a little less boredom and on a slightly higher plane. Art does not make us better people. One can live without any interest in art and still be happy. Art gives an additional opportunity to understand the world and to find certain connections, as it were. And then collectively, art can lead to extraordinary human achievements.”

Hespel is pleased about the partnership

with Vacheron Constantin because it will allow him to broaden the horizons of his students with real-world projects. “Vacheron Constantin has given us considerable room in terms of creativity, within the boundaries of a list of technical prescriptions implied by the nature of the watch models.”

Partnerships like the one with Vacheron Constantin are about “giving this school additional capacities to export its expertise, its competence, beyond borders,” he adds.

The partnership with École Boulle is scheduled to run until 2017, and perhaps beyond, allowing the school to continue to emphasize the traditional arts.“Artistic crafts provide the certainty of preserving ties with the history of our continent, its humanistic values and high moral demands,” Hespel concludes. “Art and artistic crafts are inseparable from the making of a watch.” ecole-boulle.org

“I have a sort of moral mission to pass on the skills, the high standards and the excellence of the French craftsmanship tradition, while modernizing it” — Christophe Hespel

CHRISTOPHE HESPEL

“The partnership between Vacheron Constantin and Boulle was triggered by the manufacture’s determination to seek the fresh, creative approach of our students,” says Hespel. “As far as Boulle itself is concerned, the connection was immediately obvious, given the nature of the request and the freedom given to the young designers in developing this project. The fundamental aim of this project is that of passing on highquality skills in the realm of artistic crafts.”

Designing for timepieces is not easy, given the restrictive dimensions of watches. “The challenge involved in this project lies in complying with the demands implied by the size and thickness of the dials, and of looking for the materials best-suited to watches,” Hespel says. “Watch design interests me in that it draws upon a longstanding history of ornamentation, and in keeping with horological traditions involves rare materials and exceptional value, along with remarkable technical sophistication, and the need to adapt to

the world and to public expectations. That is why watches are so fascinating—as if the entire sum of knowledge were contained within such a small object.”

61

181_PROFILES.indd 61

19/12/2014 11:13

PROFILE A N I TA P O RC H E T

Anita Porchet

By Keith W. Strandberg

The Visionary Enamelist at the Top of Her Game.

62

181_PROFILES.indd 62

19/12/2014 11:13

IN PURSUIT OF A DREAM For a time, métiers d’art like enameling were in danger of becoming extinct—vaguely remembered shadows of a bygone era. If not for the efforts of Porchet and companies like Patek Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin and others, we might not have as many beautiful métier d’art watches today.

“We live in a world that is constantly seeking novelty and the rare handcrafts have allowed us to decorate timepieces using techniques other than precious-stones setting,” she says. “In an industry that is very technical, people need to dream and reconnect with handmade craftsmanship.

“I love the depth and the light provided by enamel,” she continues. “I also enjoy the firing work and its unpredictability. When you take a piece out of the oven there is a magical moment during which the colors are gradually revealed. Each time I remain fascinated by this magic.”

weeks—but that’s part of the job.”

A dedicated artist, much of Porchet’s time is taken up by her watchmaking work—she’s in great demand, and she also trains new enamelists in her studio. When asked to pick her favorite works, she finds it difficult to decide. “I am attached to some of my works because they mark a milestone of my private or professional life,” she says. “The ‘Dawn on the Lake’ pocket watch and its stand, which I created for the Patek Philippe 175th anniversary, is one of these, as is a miniature painting of a rose and the reproduction of the ceiling of the Garnier Opera, but there are others.”

“When you take a piece out of the oven there is a magical moment during which the colors are gradually revealed. Each time I remain fascinated by this magic.”

— Anita Porchet

and I don’t know how this will evolve. I am also not sure whether the popularity of métiers d’art is just a passing trend—the enthusiasm may vanish.”

If Porchet continues to create such stunning work, and companies offer new and creative applications of métiers d’art, I can’t see the popularity fading anytime soon.

PROFILE

Anita Porchet has been a legend in the enameling world for as long as I can remember. So, when I met her for the first time, I was surprised at how young and energetic she was—I had expected at least a septuagenarian! As the reference for enameling and the watch industry’s go-to artisan, Porchet has worked for just about every major brand; her work was featured prominently in the Patek Philippe 175th Anniversary Rare Handicrafts Collection. I have had the opportunity to meet with her several times and I always come away enlightened about enameling, and inspired by the artistic world in general.

LEFT: Anita Porchet Below: The Patek Philippe Dawn on the Lake pocket watch and its stand, detail of the watch's dial

WORDLY INFLUENCES How does the future look for enameling and the other métiers d’art? “I find all rare handcrafts fascinating,” Porchet notes. “I have been privileged to travel around the world and each time I sought to meet local artists. Of course in Japan, there is ancestral artisanship that is simply extraordinary.

Here in Europe, at-home artisan crafts and training have been taken over by companies

EVERYDAY ALCHEMY A N I TA P O RC H E T

Porchet didn’t go to school to become an enamelist: She came by it honestly. Her godfather was an engraver and enamelist whose studio she first visited when she was 12 years old. “I loved the peaceful atmosphere of my godfather’s engraving-enameling workshop with his music and paintings,” she explains.

“From there, I had to go to various workshops in order to learn the many enameling techniques. I was lucky to meet wonderful people who took me in and transmitted their know-how. In parallel to this I attended an art school which allowed me to teach drawing and painting later on.

“Part of this work is alchemy,” she continues. “Knowing your colors and their combinations comes with experience and years of practice. I learn every day. Many times during the work I have had to start all over again—after working whole days, even

63

181_PROFILES.indd 63

19/12/2014 11:13

Distributed by:

181_ADS.indd 62

ENVOY TRADING LLC

T: (310) 402-1530

E: ebragg@envoytradingllc.com

19/12/2014 10:57

WATCH JOURNAL

Chapter

1

World 181_COLLECTORS.indd 67

18/12/2014 19:18

“THIS IS MY TIME” David Coulthard

181_ADS.indd 59

18/12/2014 19:48

www.twsteel.com 181_ADS.indd 60

18/12/2014 19:48

WATCH JOURNAL

TOM KALENDERIAN

COLLECTOR

TOM KALENDERIAN Executive Vice President and General Merchandise Manager at Barneys New York

“Whenever I have a free moment and the mood strikes me, I do look at my grandfather’s watch, and some days I pull out my dad’s Omega.”

68

181_COLLECTORS.indd 68

19/12/2014 15:31

WATCH JOURNAL

COLLECTOR

simplicity of it, and the fact that it is so flat, and so thin. I still love the styling of the really bright white dial and it has blue hands in a blue metal. It has the sapphire crown, and the screws on the side that hold the watch closed. It’s the original tank style. That’s always my dress watch for evening.

As more time went by, I bought a Rolex. I never really did like the very fancy Rolexes. I like simple ones, so I bought an Air King. It really reflects my taste, so for a long time I wore that watch. And then something happened, and all of a sudden I started to like bigger watches.

About fifteen years ago I guess it was, I bought a rather large Breitling watch. It has the Bullet Bracelet, which they no longer do, so when you look at the back of the watch, the bullets go all the way around so you don’t see how the watch closes. To this day, when I wear that watch I get compliments.

I recently got a new watch, a Parmigiani Tonda 1950. It sounds Italian, but it’s a Swiss watch. I absolutely fell in love with it because it reminded me of my dad’s watch: the lugs are quite prominent but the watch case is very tapered and it’s large. It comes with an Hermès leather crocodile strap, which is really a beautiful piece of crocodile leather.

I also have my dad’s Omega, a Seamaster, which my mom bought for him when they got married in the ’50s.

I love that watch—I try not to wear it too often, but I like the concept of it, the profile of it. Whenever I have a free moment and the mood strikes me, I do look at my grandfather’s watch, and some days I pull out my dad’s Omega. I wear all these watches, but my new fave is this Parmigiani.

It really does express my personal style more than anything I own today.”

—As told to Hally Wolhandler

LEFT: Tom Kalenderian courtesy Lorenzo Brigheli ABOVE: LEFT TO RIGHT A Cartier Tank in rose gold A 1983 Breitling with bullet bracelet A 1967 Longines Ultra-Chron

TOM KALENDERIAN

“[My interest in watches is] probably somewhat due to my grandfather’s pocket watch. As a child I remember being allowed to play with it, which is kind of surprising, that my mom let me do that. I used to love to wind it, and listen to it, and open it and close it. I think at that time I was young enough, yet old enough, to really enjoy the beauty of it.

He had a Waltham hand-engraved gold pocket-watch, that has a gold watch fob that he used to wear on his waistcoat. It looks almost Victorian. It has teeth marks on it, which are supposedly my mother’s from when she was an infant, when he would hold her. My grandfather died before I was born, so it’s a nice memento to have of his.

As a child from first grade all the way through high school, I was forever buying [watches] and asking my father to buy me a new watch. Nothing of any great value, but I was always obsessed with them. I was born in ’57, so I’m a child of the ’60s, and I always would have to have a mod watch band, an extra wide one. I was constantly changing the ribbon strap bands on my watches. I was probably, in an odd way, a little watch obsessed as a kid.

When I went to high school, it was that era of the electronic watch—quartz watches were more or less coming of age in the early ’70s, and I wanted one of those Bulova watches that had the tuning fork that I had read about, but my father said, “No, I want to get you something better than that.” He didn’t believe that the battery-operated watches were fine, even though the cases might be nice, so he bought me a Longines Ultra-Chron that had similar properties but was still a mechanical watch to go to school in—which was maybe a little extreme for a kid my age, but I loved it and I still have it, and I wear it occasionally.

As time went by, fashion took over, and when I was in college I managed to get a Cartier Tank watch. I tend to wear it with my tuxedos for black-tie occasions. I like the

69

181_COLLECTORS.indd 69

19/12/2014 15:31

WATCH JOURNAL

J AY PA R K E R

COLLECTOR

JAY PARKER CEO, Douglas Elliman, Florida Brokerage

“My grandmother always told me that one thing you always notice about a person is their timepiece.”

70

181_COLLECTORS.indd 70

19/12/2014 15:31

WATCH JOURNAL

COLLECTOR

Patek Philippe represents to me everything that I’m about—longevity, professionalism, understated elegance and sophistication. The brand just came out with the Dual Time Zone—that’s my next target. I would say my second favorite watch is my all-gold Rolex Daytona, just because it signifies my first wedding anniversary. I have a tremendous affinity for Rolexes. I’m the kind of guy that likes to have different things so I probably have 10 Rolexes, maybe more.

Often people will comment on my watches—in meetings, they say they can see I’m a watch person. It creates a sense of community. I like that people understand watches and people know watches. It’s a point of conversation.

In my mind, I have all these milestones planned for when I want to give my children watches. I’ve also created a watch collector in my wife. I bought her a Bulgari chronograph 10 years ago and since then I’ve been buying her watches. She has developed a significant collection.

Watches have become a family affair, and because of the fact that they get passed from generation to generation, it is exciting to build the collection and watch it grow and become part of a family legacy.”

—As told to Hally Wolhandler

OPPOSITE: Jay Parker ABOVE, LEFT TO RIGHT: Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 5960 Rolex Daytona Chronograph in 18 Karat yellow gold J AY PA R K E R

“I’ve always been a watch fanatic, ever since I was a little kid. I think it probably started with Swatch watches that I used to collect and I then advanced to some of the lower-end brands that really didn’t appreciate or retain their value. Eventually, when I got into law school, I got my first Rolex. Since then, and it’s been about 20 years that I’ve been collecting watches. I remember my grandmother always telling me that one thing you always notice about a person is their timepiece—it says a lot about who that person is and it doesn’t have to be an expensive watch, but something like a Rolex is timeless. That has always resonated with me, the idea of taking a look and seeing what watch someone is wearing.

I have twin boys and every time I buy a watch now, I always think about them. They’re going to be 4 years old this year, and they love my watches. I tell them all the time that they’re going to have them all. I love that slogan, “You Never Really Own a Watch, You Just Hold it for a Generation. ” That’s part of what I love—these watches are really timeless. I have some older watches—my wife purchased an all-gold Daytona for me for our one-year anniversary, which was eight years ago. Those are the types of things that I think mean everything because they last forever. It’s also unique that good watches tend to hold their value to some significant extent, which makes it easier to buy them, and it makes it nice to keep them.

My favorite watch is my Patek Philippe Chronograph 5860. My wife bought it for me for my 40th birthday.

71

181_COLLECTORS.indd 71

19/12/2014 15:31

WATCH JOURNAL

D AV E D AW S O N

COLLECTOR

DAVE DAWSON Founder and President, The Urban Electric Company

“It’s more fun if you imagine that the watch you’re buying has a story or a past, even if it’s imagined.”

72

181_COLLECTORS.indd 72

19/12/2014 15:31

WATCH JOURNAL LEFT: Dave Dawson courtesy The Urban Electric Co. BELOW: 1952 Breitling Navitimer Panerai Luminor Pam 560 Rolex Oyster Perpetual

COLLECTOR

like a donut. I had never seen it on any other watch. It was purely a rounded edge. I have a Zodiak Super Seawolf which is a military-grade dive watch and it has a really, really thick heavy-duty bezel on it.

There are so many dimensions to watches and to me collecting vintage watches adds an even further dimension because it’s more fun if you imagine that the watch you’re buying has a story or a past, even if it’s imagined.

One of the things I just love about watches and why I am drawn to certain watches is all those small details. My Rolex Submariner is what they call a meters first and it’s a little unusual. It just means that they reverse the order in which they state the meters and the feet.

I keep a list of watches that I would love to acquire.

There’s the other aspect for me which is when I first collected I didn’t have any kids, and now I have two young boys. Now I’m always thinking about it in terms of what I’m going to pass on to those guys and what are they going to think about these watches in 30 years when they’re going through my box of watches and pulling this out, “This is something my dad wore back in 2014.” From a legacy standpoint, not because I’m going to leave them some incredibly valuable collection but more a statement to them when I’m gone about my taste or what I was drawn to or periods in my life and what was going on. I think a watch, especially for a man, can really be a symbol of all of that.” —As told to Roxy Kirshenbaum

D AV E D AW S O N

“I don’t have a long history [of collecting], probably like a lot of guys my age growing up in the late ’70s and early ’80s. My initial watches were calculator watches and Pacman watches when I was a kid. Then I didn’t pay much attention to [watches] until my early 30’s, about 10 years ago. I started being drawn to the form and function combination and that’s what I love about watches. My job is this nexus of design and manufacturing in what we do and it seemed to speak to the same thing. You have a really complicated, intricate movement and mechanics and it has a function, and yet it’s presented in this really beautiful way and that really spoke to me.

I have a small collection that I have been working on over the last eight or 10 years. The more I’m going along the more I realize that as a hobby it’s just something I love because it’s something that I can grow with. It’s a learning and lifelong thing, and you’re always searching and looking.

I have a Panerai that I love. I have an old Tudor, and one of the ones I really love is a 1945 Breitling Navitimer, and I am really drawn to that one because of the faded, antique-white face and cthe scalloped edge to the bezel.

One of my kind of oddball watches is a Memosail early ’70s yachting watch, and I was drawn to it basically because of the aesthetics of the watch. It’s not necessarily about a particular brand or a particular prestige, but the Memosail had this really unusual bezel that was shaped

73

181_COLLECTORS.indd 73

19/12/2014 15:31

P L AY

WA T C H J O U R N A L

ABOVE: A view of the intimate seating booths RIGHT: The well-stocked bar THE NOMAD BAR 10 West 28th St. New York, NY 10001

T H E N O M A D B A R , M A N H AT TA N

THE NOMAD BAR A Hidden Oasis in Central Manhattan.

The NoMad Bar, a new spot adjacent to its eponymous hotel, has quickly become a hot spot in the New York City bar scene. Designed by the firm Stonehill & Taylor and featuring drinks like the Madison Park Smash—an eightdrink group cocktail that requires two bartenders to create—the space operates as a standalone bar but is easily accessed from the adjacent restaurant. Heavy dark wood construction, large windows and mahogany-paneled walls and ceiling combine to create an old-world atmosphere. A dark wood bar furthers this aesthetic, while warm lighting makes the atmosphere cozy and inviting.

Mosaic marble floors, Persian rugs and touches of green reflect the design of the NoMad Hotel. The artwork was influenced by the surrounding neighborhood, illuminating the change and transition of the area: In the hallway leading to the bathroom, there are numerous photographs—all taken by local photographer MacKenzie Rollins within two blocks of the bar—hanging on the walls.

Overall, the NoMad Bar offers a unique experience in the heart of New York City that parallels and enhances those offered by the ever-popular hotel and restaurant. thenomadhotel.com

74

181_PLAYSTAYGETAWAY.indd 74

18/12/2014 19:23

WA T C H J O U R N A L

S T AY

TOP: View of a suite RIGHT: A Diane von Furstenberg carpet carries the zoo theme HOTEL ZOO Kurfürstendamm 25 10719 Berlin Germany

Berlin’s Hotel Zoo Reinvents Itself With Major Renovations.

Hotel Zoo has a long and storied history in Berlin. In 1891, the building was a private residence; in 1911, it transitioned into a hotel. Through the Roaring ’20s to the height of its fame as the VIP hotel for the Berlin International Film Festival (from the 1950s through the 1970s), this hotel built a stellar reputation. Designer Dayna Lee was more than up to the task of a recent redesign, and the results are spectacular. In the newly remodeled Hotel Zoo, guests are greeted by natural stone and a plush, jade-colored Diane von Furstenberg carpet. Off the reception portal is the living room, a grand space full of vibrant colors and rich textures. Enormous windows make the space grand and let in natural light.

With a soft, soothing color palette complemented by bold accents and equipped with Apple TVs and Ne-

spresso coffee machines, the rooms at Hotel Zoo offer a unique blend of hotel luxury getaway and townhouse comfort. There are also two sixth-floor penthouses that boast generous space and several fireplaces.

Bringing a little of the past into the design, Hotel Zoo’s Grace Bar has an atmosphere reminiscent of the speakeasy one would have found there in earlier years. The interior features a lacquered wood bar with an under-lit amethyst countertop, chairs made of leather and velvet, and a gold-dusted brick wall in the lounge area. With such elegant but inventive design and all the amenities one could ask for, Hotel Zoo is poised to be a Berlin staple for years to come. hotelzoo.de

H O T E L Z O O, B E R L I N

HOTEL ZOO

75

181_PLAYSTAYGETAWAY.indd 75

18/12/2014 19:23

WA T C H J O U R N A L

INIALA BEACH HOUSE

G E T AWAY

High Design on Thailand’s Remote Shores.

The right hotel is a must when you’re hoping a vacation will take you far from your regular life, and the new Iniala Beach House, set on the idyllic shores on Phang-nga, is that perfect escape. The resort comprises three villas, each with three suites and topped by a penthouse. The bedrooms and living spaces are all unique in design, combining the visions of designers from Spain, Brazil, Ireland, Britain and Thailand.

The Villa Siam, designed by Eggarat Wongcharit of Thailand, is inspired by Buddhism and Thai culture. This villa features beds and couches artfully suspended from the ceiling by wicker bamboo and Buddhist teachings written on the walls. The Villa Bianca, meanwhile, is a combination of varying design elements from spanish design studio A-Cero. It features abstract art and two bedrooms reminiscent of seashells. In another bedroom, Russian firm Philosophy Design created a room that plays off of the Matryoshka, or nesting doll—one of Russia’s most famous symbols—by decorating the bedroom with contemporary versions of this iconic toy. Finally, the Collector’s Villa is a tribute to the contemporary, and features bedrooms by Jaime Hayon, Joseph Walsh, and Mark Brazier-Jones.

The Iniala Beach House’s restaurant, Aziamendi, is headed by a three-star Michelin-rated chef, Eneko Atxa.

The hotel may be luxurious, but it’s also committed to giving back: 10 percent of room revenues and 5 percent of all other revenues go to Iniala’s own foundation, which is dedicated to funding projects for health, disabilities and education across Thailand, Indonesia, and India. iniala.com

RIGHT AND BELOW: The hotel's design stuns from every view

INIALA BEACH HOUSE, THAILAND

INIALA BEACH HOUSE 28/9 Moo 6 Khokkhloi Phang-nga, Thailand

76

181_PLAYSTAYGETAWAY.indd 76

18/12/2014 19:23

WATCHJOURNAL.COM

NECESSITIES TECH

BEATS BY DRE $200 beatsbydre.com

SPEAK EASY Beats by Dre presents the Solo2 Wireless headphone, a streamlined cordless headphone that is equipped for extended use. The premium headphone comes with a color-matched 3.5 mm Remote Talk detachable cable that allows for quick song changes and adjustable volume control. Compatible with most iOS devices, hands-free calls are possible with the built in mic and on-ear controls for listening.

JUMP AROUND The wireless Bluetooth device has a 30-foot range and includes a 12-hour rechargeable battery with an illuminated fuel gauge that signals when it’s time to recharge. Durable and foldable, these lightweight headphones are easily transportable.

IN THE ZONE For a dynamic and wide range of sound with natural clarity, the padding inside the pivoting ear cups reduces outside noise for a more concentrated aural experience.

77

181_NECESSITIES.indd 77

18/12/2014 19:44

T R A N S P O RT

NECESSITIES

WATCHJOURNAL.COM

78

181_NECESSITIES.indd 78

18/12/2014 19:44

WATCHJOURNAL.COM

NECESSITIES T R A N S P O RT

MERCEDES-BENZ From $119,900 mbusa.com

HIGH SPEED The new 2015 S-Class Coupe by Mercedes-Benz is a sporty two-door automobile powered by a 449-hp V8 biturbo engine with torque level peaks reaching (516 lb-ft.) The exceptionally designed vehicle includes a touchpad with an optional head-up display.

FORM AND FUNCTION Like a motorcyclist or skier would, the Coupe leans into bends with a curve tilting function for supreme comfort. The lateral acceleration is reduced to create a more firm seated position, and for country roads another curve tilting function comes into play.

ALLURING SECURITY For added safety, the Coupe includes numerous assistance systems including and not limited to the “Intelligent Drive” system, a pre-safe brake with pedestrian detection, an adaptive brake assistant that provides collision protection from a speed of 4 mph, among others.

Safety certainly doesn’t mean boring or unattractive– the S-Class Coupe boasts a sloping hood with pronounced lines and powerdomes, a sculpted appearance, full-LED headlamps, and a side profile that is domeshaped with a stretched roof and frameless doors.

79

181_NECESSITIES.indd 79

18/12/2014 19:44

STYLE

NECESSITIES

WATCHJOURNAL.COM

VALEXTRA $6,460 valextra.it

SECURE The new Sherlock Holmes briefcase comes with Valextra’s patented “Sherlock Holmes” closure, requiring a three-digit combination to unlock. This effectively reproduces the lock found on a miniature safe, providing reliable safety of all the goods inside.

HANDCRAFTED All components of the eponymous lock are handmade by master locksmiths, ensuring that each piece is working perfectly. This attention to detail makes for high performance and functionality.

SLEEK STYLE The Sherlock bag is made of a fine leather that discreetly conceals all but the three dials needed to enter the code, creating a simple, clean look without any excess.

PORTABLE The case’s top handle is height-adjustable and comes with a removable shoulder strap. The inside is completely lined with leather and has compartments to fit everything from important documents to a passport or wallet.

80

181_NECESSITIES.indd 80

18/12/2014 19:45

WATCHJOURNAL.COM

NECESSITIES STYLE

PORSCHE DESIGN $2,450 porsche-design.com

INSIDE OUT This season’s classic buffalo leather jacket in cognac, also available in jet black, has four on-trend flap pockets and a zip closure with a subtle Porsche Design logo. The jacket is made of fine, supple leather with a comfortable body lining of 100 percent pure cotton.

NOVEL PROPOSAL Professor Ferdinand Alexander Porsche founded the luxury brand Porsche Design in 1972 after leaving the Porsche car company as its head of design. Known for its unique and purist design philosophy, the brand creates functional fashions with an iconic visual aesthetic.

STRAIGHT UP The sleeve width can be adjusted for an even sleeker look with additional zip closures. The press-button flap on the structured stand-up collar gives the jacket a chic yet authentic look. All Porsche Design fashion is conceived in-house in the brand’s studio in Zell am See, Austria.

81

181_NECESSITIES.indd 81

18/12/2014 19:45

A C C E S S O RY

NECESSITIES

WATCHJOURNAL.COM

MONTBLANC prices vary by style montblanc.com

HISTORIC This elegant collection of limited-edition pens is a tribute to JFK’s legacy, inspired by his legendary life. Special details commemorate the great achievements of the 35th President of the United States: The pens' cap ring pattern is inspired by the first footprints left on the moon, and the Apollo lunar module is engraved in spectacular detail on the fountain pen’s 18-karat white-gold nib.

LIMITED In honor of JFK’s birth year, only 1,917 of these handsome fountain, rollerball, and ballpoint pens will be made.

They are sure to befome an instant collector's item, as well as an everyday indulgence for the pen aficionado.

PERSONAL The Kennedy family also inspired the pens’ design. The three rings on the cap represent each of President Kennedy’s brothers, and the red, white and blue color scheme reflects the traditional colors of sailing, a favorite pastime of the Kennedys.

82

181_NECESSITIES.indd 82

18/12/2014 19:45

WATCHJOURNAL.COM

NECESSITIES A C C E S S O RY

CHANEL price upon request chanel.com

CLASSIC WITH A TWIST Chanel’s golden metal moucharabieh minaudiere is a modern interpretation of the iconic classic Chanel bag. It made its debut in Dubai at the Chanel Cruise 2014-2015 fashion show.

HAND IN HAND This memorable presentation in the Middle East included an auditorium with double-C fretwork and a manmade island. The evening bag was shown on the runway paired with a spectacular embroidered double-silk crepe dress with a train over double-silk crepe pants

EXOTIC FIGURES Karl Lagerfeld, head designer and creative director of Chanel, took the brand’s cruise collection to Dubai, one of the world’s most active luxury hotspots. At the show, models adorned in jewels walked down a faux palm tree–lined catwalk. Lagerfeld has chosen locations all over the world for his Cruise shows, including Singapore and the gardens of Versailles.

83

181_NECESSITIES.indd 83

18/12/2014 19:45

S P O RT S G E A R

NECESSITIES

WATCHJOURNAL.COM

ATOMIC Price Upon Request atomic.com

DESIGNED WITH GOLD IN MIND Austrian World Cup alpine ski racer and Olympic medalist Marcel Hirscher collaborated with Atomic to create a ski with serious athletic demands in mind. The result is a set of skis with all the ability, speed, and security Hirscher himself desires.

SIMPLY THE BEST When Hirscher became interested in ski design, he knew exactly which company he wanted to combine forces with. Now the racer has collaborated on a line with his favorite brand that includes goggles, helmet, boots, skis and more.

POWER DELIVERED Made with woodcore and two thin titanium layers, Redster Marcel Hirscher SL skis possess the perfect balance of stiff resistance and flexibility. Shockilla Sidewall inserts give skiers the courage to push forward onto new terrains.

SLOPE-TESTED The skis will be released in a limited edition series, while Hirscher plans to put them to the test at the FIS Alpine World Ski Championships in February.

84

181_NECESSITIES.indd 84

18/12/2014 19:45

WATCHJOURNAL.COM

NECESSITIES S P O RT S G E A R

GOTTI $140 gotti.ch

FINEST FIT Made from flexible rubber with a flat matte finish, these goggles will stretch and flex to withstand the wildest rides while remaining firmly in place for clear vision and minimal irritation.

GOOD LOOKING Götti produces the goggles in a variety of colors, all featuring mirrored lenses to block the glare of sun on snow.

A three-dimensional finishing lends a sleek, aerodynamic look.

DURABLE COOL The latest model by Götti is fitted with an anti-fog system. The goggles are double-glazed for efficient ventilation, and designed to remain comfortable under a helmet.

The light but tough frame is built to last and anti-fog lenses offer full UV protection.

SWISS-MADE Founded by Sven Götti in Wädenswil on Lake Zurich in 1998, Götti continues to design its products exclusively in-house.

85

181_NECESSITIES.indd 85

18/12/2014 19:45

HOME

NECESSITIES

WATCHJOURNAL.COM

BANG AND OLUFSEN $14,000 bang-olufsen.com

ACOUSTIC PERFECTION With a 180 degree arc, the Bang and Olufsen BeoLab18 speakers are designed to distribute sound evenly in a wide range of spaces. Crafted of aluminum and walnut wood, they are as easy on the eyes as they are on the ears.

NO STRINGS ATTACHED A truly modern design, BeoLab18 operates without cords, requiring only a power cable for each speaker. This cuts down on ugly cables, and provides greater flexibility when deciding where to place the speakers.

ICONIC INSPIRATION The BeoLab18 speaker system is directly inspired by the 1992 BeoLab8000, Bang and Olufsen’s most sought-after product to date. You can clearly see the inspiration of an organ’s pipe in its vertical shape.

KNOCK ON WOOD Bang and Olufsen wanted to honor Nordic traditional woodcrafting and engineering in this soon-to-be-iconic design. BeoLab18’s perfectly carved wooden columns provide a new and innovative way to pay tribute to this heritage.

86

181_NECESSITIES.indd 86

18/12/2014 19:45

atelier-zuppinger.ch

Plate Tableware or part of a watch movement?

Discover the world of Fine Watchmaking at www.hautehorlogerie.org

Plate | The plate which bears the various movement parts and in particular the bridges.

The dial is usually affixed to the bottom side of the plate. The plate is pierced with holes for the screws and recesses for the jewels in which the pivots of the movement wheels will run.

THE FOUNDATION’S PARTNERS | A. LANGE & SÖHNE | AUDEMARS PIGUET | BAUME & MERCIER | BOVET 1822 | CARTIER | CHANEL | CHOPARD | CHRISTOPHE CLARET DE BETHUNE | GIRARD-PERREGAUX | GREUBEL FORSEY | HARRY WINSTON | HERMÈS | IWC | JAEGER-LECOULTRE | LOUIS VUITTON | MONTBLANC | OFFICINE PANERAI PARMIGIANI FLEURIER | PIAGET | RALPH LAUREN | RICHARD MILLE | ROGER DUBUIS | TAG HEUER | VACHERON CONSTANTIN | VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

181_ADS.indd 52

18/12/2014 19:06

HOME

NECESSITIES

WATCHJOURNAL.COM

MARSET $600–$4,400 depending on size marsetusa.com

ENDLESS CHARM The Marset Discocó pendant lamp provides a unique blend of illumination, both directly beneath the lamp and through a diffused light that emanates from the center.

The lamp, though, requires no light at all to leave a lasting impression: Even when turned off, it maintains its striking appearance as reflections play off the chrome-covered sphere at its core where the disks are secured.

DANCE PARTY A gradation of light nuances and depth can be attributed to the fixture’s 35 disks. A direct downward illumination makes for a theatrical performance of soft shadows as they leap between both sides of the disks.

WELCOMING COMMITTEE In addition to the collection’s existing color range, two new tones, including beige and gray in a matte finish, are now available, as well as a new 68 cm diameter version.

88

181_NECESSITIES.indd 88

18/12/2014 19:45

Atacama Field Chronograph Series No. 1945: 45mm, black PVD stainless steel case, screw case back and screw down crown, antireflective sapphire crystal, water resistant to 100 meters, alarm feature, golden tan distressed leather strap with black PVD buckle, and Luminox self-powered illumination. Swiss Made.

Preferred timepiece of automotive enthusiasts.

181_ADS.indd 54

www.luminox.com facebook.com/Luminox

18/12/2014 19:06

TECH

NECESSITIES

WATCHJOURNAL.COM

HASSELBLAD $2,395 hasselbladusa.com

BLENDED FAMILY Conceived and crafted exclusively for aficionados, collectors and connoisseurs, the Hasselblad Stellar II compact camera is designed to combine artistry, craft and technology.

OUTER LIMITS The camera features new near field communication technology and integrated Wi-Fi for easy image sharing. The device also boasts a 3-inch high-resolution screen with an increased dynamic range of motion negative-45 degrees downward or 84 degrees upward.

RAIN OR SHINE To overcome extreme light environments, an anti-glare coating on the camera’s lens increases visibility.

NUMBERS GAME The 20.2 megapixel Wi-Fi model can capture moments in almost any light and comes in four different grip variations: olive wood, walnut, padouk wood and carbon fiber.

The camera also boasts HD 1080/60p video and 3.6x optical zoom capability.

90

181_NECESSITIES.indd 90

18/12/2014 19:45

©2009 Orbita Corporation

Fine watches stay wound, while their owners unwind.

View the aVanti – twelVe pedestal and all of our luxury watchwinders at orbita.com.

181_ADS.indd 61

18/12/2014 19:08

WEAPON

NECESSITIES

WATCHJOURNAL.COM

BERETTA price upon request beretta.com

INNOVATIVE The new Beretta 486 shotgun, designed by industrial designer Marc Newson, reconsiders the construction of the conventional side by side shotgun. The safety catch is set into the walnut wooden bridge, and the gun is engraved with a distinctive design.

TIMELESS The concept of a “round body” design has been in high demand over the last few years. The 486 by Marc Newson has taken this idea further by creating an edgeless receiver and surface that has fluid, smooth lines.

TRADITION This firearm is a combination of everything that has kept Beretta going strong since 1526: innovation blended with nearly 500 years of expertise.

SPECIAL HOMAGE Using a high-technology laser during the manufacturing process, an engraving on the edgeless receiver pays tribute to Asia, which is home to the pheasant, the world’s most popular game bird.

92

181_NECESSITIES.indd 92

18/12/2014 19:45

bsw15_ad_235x298_e_WatchJournal_ch.indd 1 181_ADS.indd 56

14.10.14 16:18 18/12/2014 19:07

WATCH JOURNAL

Get Watch Journal for your iPad and iPhone.

Included with subscription watchjournal.com/subscribe

181_COLLECTORS.indd 66

19/12/2014 15:30

WA T C H J O U R N A L

The Roger Dubuis Excaliber Spider Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon’s movement

Chapter

2

Stories 181_FEATURE_1_COVERSTORY.indd 95

18/12/2014 16:53

WA T C H J O U R N A L

F E AT U R E : A T W IST ON T R A DI T ION

OPPOSITE: The Excalibur Spider Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon

A Twist on Tradition

K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G

By Keith W. Strandberg

Roger Dubuis Pushes the Boundaries of Innovation.

96

181_FEATURE_1_COVERSTORY.indd 96

18/12/2014 16:53

WA T C H J O U R N A L

97

181_FEATURE_1_COVERSTORY.indd 97

18/12/2014 16:53

181_FEATURE_1_COVERSTORY.indd 98 F E AT U R E : A T W IST ON T R A DI T ION

A view of the back of the Excalibur Spider Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon’s movement

K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G

WA T C H J O U R N A L

98

18/12/2014 16:53

WA T C H J O U R N A L

The brand has the unique distinction of being the only watch concern that has 100 percent of its production certified by the prestigious Geneva Seal.

Given that fact, you would be forgiven for thinking that Roger Dubuis is a staid, conservative company, focusing on traditional watchmaking and eschewing anything radical or revolutionary.

You would be forgiven—but you’d be very wrong.

Roger Dubuis has a deserved reputation as an enigma in the watch industry. It is a manufacture in the traditional sense of the word and a rebel when it comes to design and innovation.

Rationalizing and communicating these two sides of the company have always been a challenge for the brand. Jean-Marc Pontroué, the company’s CEO, is embracing this duality and celebrating it with the introduction of the brand-new Excalibur Spider Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon, a watch that combines cutting-edge design and materials with the best of traditional watchmaking.

K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G

A TRUE MANUFACTURE

F E AT U R E : A T W IST ON T R A DI T ION

Roger Dubuis, the man and master watchmaker, is one of the most respected traditional watchmakers alive today. Known for his immaculate construction, incredible finishing and high complications, Dubuis is a living legend, and has returned to his namesake company as an inspirational icon.

99

181_FEATURE_1_COVERSTORY.indd 99

18/12/2014 16:53

K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G

F E AT U R E : A T W IST ON T R A DI T ION

WA T C H J O U R N A L

“We don’t want to please everyone, but we want to be noticed. We accept that some people won’t like what we do, but they won’t have seen it somewhere else.”

— Jean-Marc Pontroué 100

181_FEATURE_1_COVERSTORY.indd 100

18/12/2014 16:53

WA T C H J O U R N A L

AN INDEPENDENT SPIRIT F E AT U R E : A T W IST ON T R A DI T ION

Though Roger Dubuis is a big company that has an impressive and fully integrated manufacture and is a part of the Richemont Group, Pontroué sees the company—and runs it—almost as an independent brand.

“The beauty of our brand is that first and foremost we have a true manufacture. Everything we claim we do you can see that we really do,” Pontroué says. “Here, when we say Geneva, it has a meaning, as everything we do is Geneva Seal. The manufacture concept, the internalization of all our know-how, is a reality—we are not dependent on anybody. We do it all in-house.

“On the other hand, we run our brand like it is our own, like it is our own money,” he says. “This gives us power in the daily decision-making. We have the chance to be small in the big Richemont Group. [Richemont] supports us because they trust in what we are doing, so we can open in stores in new countries at a time when others are more reluctant. Roger Dubuis has very special positioning: We have a lot of resources at our disposal, but we can be very flexible, entrepreneurial and reactive.”

THE EXCALIBUR SPIDER DOUBLE FLYING TOURBILLON

K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G

This year has been designated the year of the skeleton, with Excalibur in the vanguard, taking the concept of skeletonization beyond just the movement and applying it to every aspect of the watch. “When we started to think about the product for 2015, we focused on one family as we always do,” Pontroué explains. “This year, the concept is skeleton and it will be all about Excalibur.

Skeletons from other companies have always been very traditional, very classic, very patrimonial, and we were the first brand to develop the modern, architectural skeleton. We are one of the leaders in tourbillon sales and we wanted to highlight this competence, the tourbillon, and focus on the skeleton.”

“There are more than 700 watch brands in Switzerland, so we have to be different,” Pontroué continues. “We have to give people a reason to consider us. There is an exclusivity factor, spectacular design and a unique mechanism.”

The movement powering the double tourbillon is skeletonized like a spider’s web, while also incorporating the star shape, which has become a signature of Dubuis’ skeleton timepiece range. The emphasis within the skeleton range and in the new Excalibur Spider is the architecture of the movement.

“We are using our bestseller movement—the double tourbillon—and making it sportier with the Excalibur Spider. We’re taking the concept to the extreme approach by skeletonizing the case,” Pontroue says. “The point is to create this assortment that is very different from everything else. The architectural skeleton is our signature and this is different from our existing range of skeletons.”

“Roger Dubuis has a target group of modern-minded, successful people, but they have different taste than their fathers and grandfathers did,” he continues. “They are entrepreneurs who have been very successful, and they have their own style. We attract people who are in their rebellious stage, who want their own way of expressing themselves. We believe that this target group doesn’t necessarily go for the standards of the existing watchmaking industry.

They want to be the ones who have discovered these new brands, like Roger Dubuis.”

101

181_FEATURE_1_COVERSTORY.indd 101

18/12/2014 16:53

F E AT U R E : A T W IST ON T R A DI T ION

WA T C H J O U R N A L

GIVING BACK At the same time Roger Dubuis is looking to grow the company and increase market share, Pontroué is determined to give back. Recently, the brand partnered with Emirates Airlines to auction a special timepiece to raise money for the airline’s foundation. “We developed a corporate social responsibility program with Emirates Airlines,” Pontroué explains. “Anyone can bid on an one-of-a-kind Excalibur Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon, with the minimum bid being $280,000.” In February, bidding will end and Emirates Airlines will fly the winner to pick up his or her new watch from Roger Dubuis’ manufacture.

“Twenty people have already made a bid and we think we will have about 50 bidders by the end. All the proceeds go to the Emirates Airlines Foundation, and none of the money will be used for administrative costs. We are calling it ‘Time for Change’ and this is truly the spirit of Roger Dubuis. Where others might ask ‘Why?’ we ask ‘Why not?’ There were lots of reasons not to do it, but that’s exactly why we did it.”

K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G

THE FUTURE Roger Dubuis has plenty of room to grow: Its global presence is just beginning, as the company is still opening in countries that other companies have been in for quite some time.

“The Swiss watch industry has been faced with challenges recently, but here at Roger Dubuis we have been relatively immune,” Pontroué says. “We are still building the brand, so the conditions are impacting us less than they are others. We are opening in new countries like Korea, Saudi Arabia and Taiwan.

We are still building the foundation of the brand.

Whatever the future brings, you can count on Roger Dubuis not changing its winning recipe for success. “We have to be very eye-catching,” Pontroué notes. “We don’t want to please everyone, but we want to be noticed. We accept that some people won’t like what we do, but they won’t have seen it somewhere else.” rogerdubuis.com

102

181_FEATURE_1_COVERSTORY.indd 102

18/12/2014 16:53

WA T C H J O U R N A L

K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G

18/12/2014 16:53

181_FEATURE_1_COVERSTORY.indd 103

F E AT U R E : A T W IST ON T R A DI T ION

The Excalibur Spider Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon’s movement

103

WA T C H J O U R N A L

104

181_FEATURE_2_PATEK.indd 104

18/12/2014 17:00

WA T C H J O U R N A L OPPOSITE: The Grandmaster Chime in rose gold

F E AT U R E : M A R K I NG A M I L E ST ON E

Marking a Milestone

By Keith W. Strandberg

K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G

Patek Philippe celebrates 175 years by introducing the Grandmaster Chime and more.

105

181_FEATURE_2_PATEK.indd 105

18/12/2014 17:00

K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G

Detail of the Chiming Jump Hour’s dial

F E AT U R E : M A R K I NG A M I L E ST ON E

WA T C H J O U R N A L

106

181_FEATURE_2_PATEK.indd 106

18/12/2014 17:00

WA T C H J O U R N A L The World Time Moon and its specially engraved caseback

F E AT U R E : M A R K I NG A M I L E ST ON E

The Geneva-based company debuted the Grandmaster Chime, an innovative combination of complications, and the rest of the 175th anniversary collection was just as impressive. No one predicted or expected the incredible breadth of the timepieces that were introduced.

MASTERS IN CHIME The Grandmaster Chime is the brand’s most complicated wristwatch ever (the Graves Supercomplication and the Caliber 89 had more complications, but were

pocket watches). Requiring seven years to develop, the Grandmaster Chime features an ornately hand-engraved, reversible 47 mm 18 karat rose-gold case holding 20 complications, including a Grande and Petite Sonnerie, a minute repeater, an instantaneous perpetual calendar with a four-digit year display, a second time zone, and two never-beforeseen chiming complications from Patek Philippe: an acoustic alarm that strikes the alarm time, and a date repeater that sounds the date on demand. A total of

1,580 parts go into this watch and only seven will be made (with one reserved for the brand’s museum in Geneva). The price? A cool 2,500,000 CHF (about $2.6 million).

K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G

The history of Patek Philippe has been one of innovation and enduring excellence, so when I heard that the brand was having a 175th birthday bash, I started preparing for the introduction of an amazing timepiece, and I wasn’t disappointed.

RARE HANDCRAFTS COLLECTION One of the highlights at each year’s Basel Watch Fair is the display of Patek Philippe’s Rare Handcrafts Collection.

These pieces rarely—if ever—make it into a retailer, as they are snapped up first by avid collectors and Patek lovers. This year,

107

181_FEATURE_2_PATEK.indd 107

18/12/2014 17:00

K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G

The Multiscale Chronograph in platinum

F E AT U R E : M A R K I NG A M I L E ST ON E

WA T C H J O U R N A L

108

181_FEATURE_2_PATEK.indd 108

18/12/2014 17:00

WA T C H J O U R N A L

MULTISCALE CHRONOGRAPHS The chronograph is one of the most popular complications in the Patek Philippe collection, so the brand decided to introduce one that displays a number of different scales at the same time.

Patek Philippe currently produces eight chronograph calibers, and the brand developed a new chronograph dial display to showcase three of the most popular scales: tachymeter, telemeter and pulsimeter (to compute speeds, distances and heartbeats per minute, respectively).

Watches with these individual scales have been extremely popular for many years, and are often used by professionals.

Once again, Patek has achieved a horological masterpiece by combining the three indicators into one dial.

The Ref. 5975 for men comes in a limited edition of 400 watches each in 18 karat yellow, white and rose gold. The brand is also releasing 100 platinum versions. The ladies’ versions with baguette-cut diamond hour markers are limited to 150 watches, each in white and rose gold.

A DIVERSE NEW COLLECTION That’s not all—not even close.

“This year, the range is broader and the complications are on a different level from what we did for the 150th, caliber 89 aside,” states Pettinelli. “Every watch we are putting out has some form of complication.”

WORLD TIME MOON The World Time from Patek Philippe has always been a reference in this complication, but this year the brand has taken it a step further, introducing the World Time Moon, which offers a very realistic

ABOVE: The Chiming Jump Hour in platinum The World Time Moon ladies’ version in rose gold

A GRAND AFFAIR The celebration that Patek Philippe hosted in their factory was of course exquisite, but it was eclipsed by the new anniversary pieces themselves.

“The most interesting thing is that while the scale keeps changing—the overall awareness has grown, for sure—the key values of the company have remained the same,” says Pettinelli. “We still haven’t lost the family feel and the family is still involved in every decision and the culture of the company. Money isn’t how Patek makes decisions. Look at the Grandmaster Chime—we are going to make seven of them and we have had the top watchmakers working eight years on it, so we aren’t going to make money on it. The idea wasn’t to make money, it was to show that a family company can push watchmaking forward.”

And that they truly did.

Happy birthday Patek Philippe, and here’s to many more! patek.com

K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G

CHIMING JUMP HOUR In keeping with the Master Chime, Patek Philippe also introduced the Chiming Jump Hour, which features a beautiful chime when the hour jumps to the next.

This sounds simple, but the power demands proved to be quite a challenge. The timepiece requires more energy than is normally used to power the second hand, the minute hand and the jumping hour disk, which is considerably heavier than an hour hand. Four years of research, trial and error, and development resulted in a new movement specifically created to power this timepiece: the manually wound caliber 32-650 HGS PS, which is made up of 438 parts.

Limited to 175 watches in a tonneaushaped platinum case bearing the engraved inscription “PATEK PHILIPPE 1839–2014” (like all of the brand’s anniversary timepieces), the Chiming Jump Hour enhances Patek’s already-sterling reputation for chiming watches.

F E AT U R E : M A R K I NG A M I L E ST ON E

moon-phase display in the center of the dial. The moon phase uses two glass disks.

The bottom one shows the night sky and a moon complete with craters created using a unique metalization process that revolves every 29.53 days. The top disk exposes the visible portion of the moon.

The World Time Moon is a limited edition of 1,750 pieces, with 450 of the Ref. 7175 ladies’ version and 1,300 of the Ref. 5575 men’s version.

as part of the 175th celebration, Patek Philippe introduced an impressive variety of timepieces, all utilizing métiers d’art with Swiss motifs.

“In 1989, there were a relatively small number of people interested in métiers d’art,” says Larry Pettinelli, president of Patek Philippe USA. “Over the past 10 to 12 years, these old-world artisan pieces have become really interesting to collectors, because they are often one of a kind.

Collectors are really looking for that limited production. We debuted so many pieces. We were working on this for many years.”

The Rare Handcrafts Collection features 20 wristwatches as well as 20 Dome table clocks and a selection of pocket watches. The pieces employ the techniques of enameling, engraving, marquetry, guillochage, and gemsetting, either individually or in combination.

109

181_FEATURE_2_PATEK.indd 109

18/12/2014 17:00

WA T C H J O U R N A L A Jaeger-LeCoultre grand complication pocket watch from the 1920s

The Mirror of a Watch’s Soul

By Keith W. Strandberg

The Dial is Where the Magic Happens.

110

181_FEATURE_3_DIALMAKING.indd 110

18/12/2014 17:01

WA T C H J O U R N A L

F E AT U R E : DI A L M A K I NG

It’s been said that the eyes are the window to the soul. In watchmaking, the dial is the face of a watch, and a beautiful dial can lift your spirit and make your soul soar.

Designing and manufacturing a dial is not as easy as it may seem. Sure, it’s small, but that actually makes things more complicated. It’s easier to design something that has more generous proportions. Fitting everything onto a dial is a challenge, but one that the best watchmaking companies gleefully take on.

“Eighty percent of the watch is the dial, which is why it is so important,” says Stéphane Belmont, international creative and marketing director at Jaeger-LeCoultre. “For very simple, pure dials, we spend the same amount of time as we do with the highly decorated pieces to get the balance perfect. If you notice the design of the watch that means the design is not good enough.

In our most complicated watches we try to make the dials pure. We don’t do too many adornments, because we don’t want them to detract from the dial.”

As the first thing people see, the dial is worth concentrating on, and working hard to get it absolutely right. “I’ve been making dials for more than 25 years, and I have always considered the dial as the face of a watch,” says Laurent Ryser, general director of Cadramont, a dial manufacturer in partnership with Greubel Forsey. “A watch is like a person, in that first you are attracted by the face. I really believe that the dial is what attracts the customer, and if it has a nice face, you enter the shop and look at the case and learn about the movement.”

Willy Schweizer, head of the patrimony department at Girard-Perregaux, agrees: “Especially today, with wristwatches, the dial is the most important part of the watch. With pocket watches, you had the covers to decorate, but today you just have the dial.”

IN THE BEGINNING…

K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G

When the first timepieces were created, the dial as it is today did not exist.

“If you look at the very first portable watches from the Renaissance, you see that the case and the dial were one element,” Schweizer says. “The case was also the dial and it was usually made of brass, with the indications engraved on the metal, sometimes in color. At the beginning of the 18th century, you see the dial as a separate entity appearing. You can say that there were two major types of dials, enamel or metal dials—the metal dials were either engraved, guilloché or plain silver onto which engraved gold patterns were applied. There were never applied numbers—this happened much later, practically in the 20th century.”

In the early days, pocket watches were made to order, so dial design was specified by the clients. “At the beginning of the 20th century, wristwatches came and the dimensions of the dial were much smaller,” Belmont says. “The dials had to be thinner and new techniques were developed.

Today, we have come back to many of the traditional techniques because people are rediscovering all these vintage watches and they see that only the watches made with the most beautiful dials can last for centuries. If you want it to have lasting value, you need to choose something unique.

That’s why we have integrated all the métiers d’art, because we know how important they are.”

Finding new materials with which to create interesting dials is another challenge watchmakers continually face. “We are always trying to find ways to make dials more attractive,” Ryser says. “We also use mother of pearl, wood, titanium, sapphire, stone and a combination of materials. We make dials in jade, lapis lazuli and even meteorite.”

Dials in general are more sophisticated today, opening up all kinds of creative possibilities. “It used to be that dials were one level, with enamel, gold or other materials,” says Jerome DeWitt, the president of DeWitt. “Now, we have been developing multilevel dials, which can be done by stamping or by combining different materials and putting them together. This way, I can use any material I want, any color. There is much more freedom, and now dials can have 50 to 60 parts and be much more beautiful. There are collectors who are more interested in the movement, but the majority of customers are buying because they fall in love with the dial.”

111

181_FEATURE_3_DIALMAKING.indd 111

18/12/2014 17:01

181_FEATURE_3_DIALMAKING.indd 112 F E AT U R E : DI A L M A K I NG

TOP: The Girard-Perreagux Traveller in rose gold BOTTOM: The Bovet Amadeo Fleurier Tourbillon Virtuoso III

K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G

WA T C H J O U R N A L

112

18/12/2014 17:01

WA T C H J O U R N A L

Dials are difficult to design: They are small, contain all the needed indications yet must remain readable, distinctive and beautiful, but not trendy—a tough balancing act for every manufacturer.

“The dial of a timepiece is the component that reflects the trends and fashion of the moment,” says Pascal Raffy, owner of Bovet. “However, trends and fashions are by definition ephemeral and a timepiece like ours is designed to live through several generations, or even centuries.”

Dial manufacturers have had to evolve to meet the needs of the brands they serve. “In the past, the brands used to ask us what we had, and then they would choose from what we showed them,” remembers Ryser. “Now, they come to us with the design of the dial and the challenge is to make the dial according to the technical specifications.

“The most difficult dials to make are those for Greubel Forsey,” he says with a laugh. “I am Robert Greubel’s friend, and he pushes me like nobody else.”

The dial might be the face of the watch, but it still has to work flawlessly with the rest of the timepiece.

F E AT U R E : DI A L M A K I NG

DESIGN CHALLENGE

THE FUTURE

K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G

The attention to detail on the dial, and the constant tinkering with designs, materials and techniques, will continue to evolve.

As long as time continues to be displayed on the front of a watch, the dial will remain tremendously important. “People make the decision to buy a watch based on aesthetics, and the dial is a very strong influence on the aesthetics,” Alexander Schmidt, managing director of watches at Montblanc, says. “Some people make a decision based only on aesthetics, but collectors are influenced by the movement and the aesthetics. No one buys a watch just for the movement.”

Being the mirror of the soul of a watch, a dial “is the place where art can be created and dreams can be fulfilled,” Jerome DeWitt concludes.

113

181_FEATURE_3_DIALMAKING.indd 113

18/12/2014 17:01

WA T C H J O U R N A L

F E AT U R E : H IGH CA L I BR E

Below: The Rotonde De Cartier Astrotourbillon Skeleton

High Calibre

CAROL BESLER

By Carol Besler

Dedication to Creativity Fuels Cartier’s New Timepieces.

114

181_FEATURE_4_Cartier.indd 114

18/12/2014 17:02

WA T C H J O U R N A L

F E AT U R E : H IGH CA L I BR E

Since launching its fine watchmaking division in 2008, Cartier has created an impressive number of in-house movements, with this year’s SIHH 2015 introductions bringing the total to 31. I was among a handful of US journalists given a preview of some of the new pieces launching at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in early November at the company’s La Chaux-deFonds manufacture. The visit included a tour of the newly opened Maison des Métiers d’Art, which now houses the crafts of enameling, goldsmithing, marquetry and gemsetting together under one roof.

Cartier’s approach to high watchmaking is driven by the same principle that has guided the company since its founding: a dedication to creativity.

The philosophy dictates that once Cartier has mastered the technicalities of a métier, such as the gemsetting required to make a high jewelry watch, there is an endeavor to take the process one step further and create something truly unique. This ideology has resulted in, for example, not just a tourbillon but a tourbillon mysterieuse with a seemingly invisible gear train, and a perpetual calendar with a three-tiered arrangement of indications placed on the bridges and driven by a movement with no levers.

The novelty that perhaps most exemplifies Cartier’s devotion to creativity this year is the Crash Skeleton, which features the new manual wound Caliber 9618 MC. The Crash is one of a series of shaped watches that also includes the Tortue and the Baignoire; it is also the first in a new series that

Strength in the Rotonde de Cartier Astrotourbillon Skeleton is crucial, as there are only three points of contact between the movement and the case and plate: the numeral 12, the numeral 6 and the central bridge.

CAROL BESLER

will showcase a variation on one of its shaped watches, involving a new caliber in each one. Not surprisingly, the Crash Skeleton represented a number of challenges to Cartier’s watchmaking department, all of which were met by its highly skilled team. The sapphire crystal, which is made in-house, is curved on two axes, and the movement, including two mainspring barrels, had to be configured and arranged to take the distinctive contour of the case.

Another challenge was cutting the bridges in the shape of Roman numerals, a skeletonization technique for which Cartier holds a patent. In this case, the numerals are also stylized to appear as if they have “crashed” in an accident.

Just the right amount of metal is cut away to keep the mechanism stable, and durable German silver is used for the numerals and bridges. The case is platinum, which also adds strength to the timepiece. A jewelry version of the Crash Skeleton, set with 3.3 carats of diamonds in a white-gold case is also available.

The Rotonde de Cartier Astrotourbillon Skeleton is similarily a feat of openworking and is fitted with a dial plate of German Silver and a tourbillon cage and bridges made of titanium. Strength in this piece is crucial, as there are only three points of contact between the movement and the case and plate: the numeral 12, the numeral 6 and the central bridge. The chapter ring counts out seconds, indicated by the arrow extending from the rotating tourbillon cage. Hour and minute hands share the central axis with the tourbillon, which is fitted with ceramic ball bearings for added durability. The watch is fitted with the manually wound caliber 9461 MC. There will be a total of 100 whitegold versions, 20 set with baguette diamonds on the case and five set with baguette diamonds on the bracelet and case.

The Rotonde de Cartier’s Reversed Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève (caliber 9458 MC) is a new version of Cartier’s growing stable of unique forms of the rotating escapement. In this case, an existing caliber, 9458 MC, is positioned off-center and surrounded by a four-part gold dial plate that is finished

115

181_FEATURE_4_Cartier.indd 115

18/12/2014 17:02

181_FEATURE_4_Cartier.indd 116 F E AT U R E : H IGH CA L I BR E

The Rêves de Panthères night and day displays (All photos by Laziz Hamani for Cartier)

CAROL BESLER

WA T C H J O U R N A L

116

18/12/2014 17:02

WA T C H J O U R N A L

F E AT U R E : H IGH CA L I BR E

in a rosace guilloché and enamel. The watch, entirely finished to Geneva Seal standards, is a unique presentation of an existing movement. In the previous version, the escapement was surrounded by Roman numerals cut out of the dial plate. There are four versions of the Reversed Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève, three of which are set with diamonds.

The Rotonde de Cartier Annual Calendar has been totally revamped. It appears in a smaller case size—40 mm compared to the previous 45 mm—and features an entirely new display, with the days of the week featured more prominently in the windows along the inner bezel (where the months were displayed in the previous version). Formerly, the days of the week appeared in windows on the inner dial ring. Cartier’s goal was to create greater legibility, and it was achieved. Since there are fewer days than months, the reversed placement enables the day lettering to be bigger. Months now appear, three at a time, in a window just above the numeral ring at 6 o’clock, and a large date window remains a prominent feature. This useful, legible watch contains the Caliber 9908 MC, built on the base Caliber 1904 MC. No Cartier debut would be complete without an appearance by the iconic panther, and this year’s two versions showcase the ingenuity of the brand’s métiers. The Rêves de Panthères (dream of the panthers), with the automatic Caliber 9916 MC, is focused on the day/night indication. Three panthers are seated with their backs to the viewer, gazing at either a daytime

The challenge is to solder the pieces of filigree together without melting the gold beneath, which is achieved by carefully combining melting temperatures and alloy mixtures in the dial plate.

CAROL BESLER

or nighttime sky that is illustrated on a rotating plate rendered in enamel. The panthers are sculpted from white gold with onyx spots, and they rest on a dial of pavé diamonds.

The Louis Cartier XL Panthères Décor Filigree puts the jeweler’s art of filigree on the dial of a watch. The Filigree dial is painstakingly created by twisting 22-karat gold or platinum wires, looping them and then soldering them together in a lacelike pattern to create a composition. The challenge is to solder the pieces of filigree together without melting the gold beneath, which is achieved by carefully combining melting temperatures and alloy mixtures in the dial plate. Three techniques are used to create the dial composition: millegrain, a form of granulation that translates to a thousand grains (of gold), filigree and lacquer.

Cartier’s dials are also made in the company’s new Maison des Métiers d’Arts, located in a sprawling 1872 farmhouse adjacent to Cartier’s manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Our group was the first to tour the building, which was originally both a home and workshop, in the tradition of the watchmaker/ farmers of the region. It was carefully restored over a three-year period, receiving an infusion of modern technology and electrical systems while retaining original details, including most of the façade, limestone fireplaces, stone and wood floors, wood beams and even an original grand sonnerie wall-clock from 1849, made in the region and traditionally given as a wedding present.

The building incorporates both offices and workshop studios on several levels, where 50 people (including 35 craftsmen) work. The spaces are lit by a wall of windows positioned on one side of the building, flooding the studios with natural light and opening up the view of the Jura mountains beyond. Other crafts performed here include enameling, sculpting, marquetry, goldsmithing and miniature painting. As the new headquarters of Cartier’s dedication to creativity in watchmaking, the Maison des Métiers d’Arts stands as a promise of more great things to come.

117

181_FEATURE_4_Cartier.indd 117

18/12/2014 17:02

WA T C H J O U R N A L

Pushing the Boundaries

By Keith W. Strandberg

The Fine Art of Skeletonizing at Vacheron Constantin.

118

181_MANUFACTURE.indd 118

19/12/2014 11:20

K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G

19/12/2014 11:20

181_MANUFACTURE.indd 119

M A N U F A C T U R E : VA C H E R O N C O N S T A N T I N

Hand carving the Vacheron Constantin Malte Tourbillon Openworked

WA T C H J O U R N A L

119

Shinola Runwell chronograph with in-house leather strap

181_MANUFACTURE.indd 120 M A N U F A C T U R E : VA C H E R O N C O N S T A N T I N

Preparing for assembly of the Vacheron Constantin Malte Tourbillon Openworked

K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G

WA T C H J O U R N A L

120

19/12/2014 11:20

WA T C H J O U R N A L

"What is very important is the partnership between the designers and the engineers. It’s not just about removing the most material. The play between light and shadow has to be considered, too." — Christian Selmoni

M A N U F A C T U R E : VA C H E R O N C O N S T A N T I N

People who love mechanical watches love movements. They love to talk about them, to learn everything there is to know about them and, most of all, they love to look at them.

Movements are the engines of watches. Just like Ferrari owners love to see their engines through the engine covers, watch lovers want to see the mechanical hearts of their timepieces beating.

There is something mesmerizing about a mechanical movement in operation. Just looking at the balance wheel spinning is a reminder that a watch is not just another piece of electronic equipment. Take off your mechanical watch and look through the exhibition back, and you’ll see the living, breathing motor, a testament to the skill of the hands that assembled it. It’s an engine that lives on your wrist, touching your skin, almost like another heart beating.

A trend that has been developing over the past decade has been to open up watch dials, whether through complete skeletonization or via windows into the movement.

THE PROCESS

K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G

Skeletonizing a watch involves intensive work, as all the surfaces visible to the eye have to be finished, decorated and polished so they catch and reflect the light.

The best skeleton timepieces are designed from the start to be opened up. “When we design a movement, we usually think about a possible evolution of it into a skeleton version,” Christian Selmoni, Vacheron Constantin’s artistic director, notes. “We try to prepare the groundwork for a skeleton version. What is very important is the partnership between the designers and the engineers. It’s not just about removing the most material. The play between light and shadow has to be considered, too. You also have to make sure the movement will still be reliable. There are many ways to openwork a movement, from a design point of view, by playing with different shapes and architecture.”

As soon as the raw parts are produced, as much material as possible is removed with computer-controlled machines. Then, the bevelers, anglers and polishers take their turn, making each part gleam and catch the light. At Vacheron Constantin, the engravers then step in, decorating just about all the visible—and often times the invisible—surfaces.

“Skeletonizing a movement is using a mechanical movement in a decorative way—it is a technical feat and a craftsmanship challenge,” explains Selmoni. “The goal is to remove as much material as possible and expose the movement, without impacting the performance or reliability of the watch. Openworking creates a challenge from a decorative point of view, creating a kind of mechanical lace.

There is no technical reason behind skeletonizing a movement, it’s just a matter of aesthetically pushing the boundaries. It’s also a way to create a decoration that is not feminine, as openworking is one of the few métiers d’art that a man can wear.”

121

181_MANUFACTURE.indd 121

19/12/2014 11:20

Vacheron Constantin first made skeleton watches in the 1920s. These early skeletonized pieces were pocket watches from the Art Deco era. It wasn’t until the 1960s that the manufacture added engraving. This extra step has become a signature of Vacheron Constantin. “We wanted to take openworking further and this is why we have a very special kind of 3-D engraving.” Selmoni says.

“If you look at this year’s offerings, we have not only engraved the surface of the bridges, but we have created a very interesting sculpture in order to do something new. It’s a very creative and very different approach compared to what other brands are doing.”

Skeletonizing is more popular than ever before, as customers recognize the work that goes into it. “Our skeleton watches have always been exclusive, production-wise, because they require a lot of hand work,” Selmoni points out. “When you speak about a complication, some clients don’t immediately understand how complicated it is. In a skeleton watch, you immediately feel there is complexity involved, so clients can really admire and understand the intricacy of the work in front of them. The success of fine watchmaking has put a spotlight on many aspects of high watchmaking, including skeleton watches.

This is a very particular way of decorating watches that is very exclusive and unique.”

Architectural details are highlighted by the play of light and shadows on the Malte Tourbillon Openworked

K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G

M A N U F A C T U R E : VA C H E R O N C O N S T A N T I N

WA T C H J O U R N A L

vacheron-constantin.com

122

181_MANUFACTURE.indd 122

19/12/2014 11:20

M A N U F A C T U R E : VA C H E R O N C O N S T A N T I N

Assembling the Malte Tourbillon Openworked

WA T C H J O U R N A L

K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G

123

19/12/2014 11:20

181_MANUFACTURE.indd 123

K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G

A GoS Midnight Sun timepiece crafted with Damascus steel

SU B STA NC E

WA T C H J O U R N A L

124

181_SUBSTANCE.indd 124

18/12/2014 16:45

WA T C H J O U R N A L

Forged Beauty SU B STA NC E

By Keith W. Strandberg Once used for Viking swords, Damascus steel is resurfacing in watchmaking.

Damascus steel, also known as pattern welded steel, is an artisanal forging process that has long been used in sword- and knifemaking. This special steel is not only stronger and lighter than normal steel, but also looks more interesting, as the pattern welding process creates a unique and incredibly beautiful design.

Recently, several watchmakers have used pattern welded steel and other metals to great effect in watchmaking.

K E I T H W. S T R A N D B E R G

THE PROCESS I spoke with Patrik Sjögren, the founder of GoS, who has used pattern welded steel in many of his watches. Based in Sweden, Sjögren uses an ancient Viking method of pattern welded steel, partnering with metal forger and bladesmith Johan Gustafsson.

To create these beautiful patterns, the bladesmith starts with at least two different types of steel and forges them together into one solid piece, then folds and forges them again, repeatedly. Every time the steel is folded over, it doubles the number of layers.

One of the most important skills of the bladesmith is the ability to forge the steel together, using his hammer in a way that ensures every layer is distinctly folded.

When the bladesmith is done with the steel, it can have hundreds of different layers. How the bladesmith deforms the steel now determines the pattern. The pattern runs throughout the steel, not just on the

surface, and is revealed by etching the steel flatten the metal; the plate is then placed in acid. Different steels react differently to in acid. The silver oxidizes while the gold the acid, and this creates the contrast. remains clean and the resulting blend of “The Damascus steel for our cases is gold and silver is created due to the preshand-forged stainless, and Gustafsson is sure of the press bonding the two together. the only steelmaker who can create the same kind of dense patterns you see in THE RESULT carbon-based Damascus steel,” explains The patterns are stunningly beautiful and Sjögren. “It comes to us a flat rod, 7 or 8 truly artisanal in nature, requiring highly mm thick, and it is machined by us into a skilled handiwork to gain the desired effect. case ring. Then we send it off to a CNC “The use of mokume-gane in this dial—the manufacture that completes the case.” first watch to launch my collection of art To create the Damascus steel, it’s at least miniature unique watches—was to generate a day’s backbreaking work for the forger. the impression of movement of the two “The best Viking swords had a core of pat- dragons,” says Speake-Marin.

“The watch is called Fighting Time and tern welded steel,” Sjögren says. “It was possible to have the steel thinner and longer the two dragons are chasing each other for using pattern welded steel, so the sword eternity counterclockwise around the dial was flexible and still very sharp because of with the futile intention of slowing down the mixture of the steel types. Some argue time. The base material cut in a circular that the Vikings brought the technique from fashion adds the impression of movement the East, and that may well be true, but through its swirling design. It was the first there is evidence that the Vikings created I made and remains one of the strongest this kind of steel themselves and the crafts- dials I have ever made.”

Sjögren will continue to use Damascus manship of the old Viking swords was incredible.”

Steel in his watches in the future. “The patWatchmaker Peter Speake-Marin made terns a master bladesmith can create are a watch using the Japanese mokume-gane very organic and beautiful and I find it very method, which is similar to the Damascus interesting to use that aesthetic in watchsteel technique, but uses precious metals. making,” Sjögren says. “My goal as a watchThe base is made of silver and white-gold, maker is to approach the craftsmanship as folded together many times and compressed. seriously as possible.” goswatches.com Then the engraver scars the material and speake-marin.com runs the plate through two rollers to re-

125

181_SUBSTANCE.indd 125

18/12/2014 16:45

WA T C H J O U R N A L

Divine Dials Photography by Jens Mortensen

Works of Art for the Wrist.

126

181_STYLE.indd 126

19/12/2014 15:22

DIVINE DIALS

181_STYLE.indd 127 STYLE

Cartier Balon Bleu de Cartier Floral Marquetry Parrot watch in 18 karat white gold, price upon request

WA T C H J O U R N A L

127

19/12/2014 15:22

181_STYLE.indd 128 STYLE

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master HermèsGrande ArceauTradition Lift Chevaux Tourbillon en Camouflage à Quantième Tourbillon Perpétuel watchininrose white gold, gold, featuring price upon Jaeger-LeCoultre request Caliber 987 with silicon escapement and automatic winding, price upon request

DIVINE DIALS

WA T C H J O U R N A L

128

19/12/2014 15:22

DIVINE DIALS

181_STYLE.indd 129 STYLE

Frédérique Constant Manufacture Tourbillon in steel with automatic Caliber FC-980 manufacture Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight movement Constellation and silicon Gallus escapement, watch in $52,995 white gold, price upon request

WA T C H J O U R N A L

129

19/12/2014 15:22

181_STYLE.indd 130 Patek Vacheron Philippe Constantin 10-Day Tourbillon, MĂŠtiers D'Art Ref. Les 5101G, Univers in white Infinisgold Lizard with watch concealed in white tourbillon gold, $125,600 regulator and visible power reserve indication, $395,000

DIVINE DIALS

STYLE

WA T C H J O U R N A L

130

19/12/2014 15:22

STYLE

181_STYLE.indd 131 DIVINE DIALS

Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Ivy Minute Repeater in white gold, price upon request

WA T C H J O U R N A L

131

19/12/2014 15:22

DIVINE DIALS

Patek Philippe "The EspĂŠrance Loaded with Wood" watch in white gold, price upon request

STYLE

WA T C H J O U R N A L

132

181_STYLE.indd 132

19/12/2014 15:22

STYLE

Ulysse Nardin Classico Amerigo Vespucci watch in 18 karat rose gold, $42,300

WA T C H J O U R N A L

DIVINE DIALS

133

181_STYLE.indd 133

19/12/2014 15:22

DIVINE DIALS

Piaget Roger Altiplano Dubuis Excalibur Scrimshaw42 watch Skeleton in mammoth Flyingivory Tourbillon and 18in karat roserose gold, gold, $169,000 $54,500

STYLE

WA T C H J O U R N A L

134

181_STYLE.indd 134

19/12/2014 15:22

WA T C H J O U R N A L

The Officine Panerai caliber P.2005 in-house movement

Chapter

3

Legacy 181_LEGACY.indd 135

19/12/2014 11:23

O F F I C I N E PA N E R A I

A detailed view of the Officine Panerai L’Astronomo’s movement

L E GAC Y

WA T C H J O U R N A L

136

181_LEGACY.indd 136

19/12/2014 15:25

WA T C H J O U R N A L

OďŹƒcine Panerai L E GAC Y O F F I C I N E PA N E R A I

The Royal Italian Navy Watchmaker Evolves to a Full Manufacture.

137

181_LEGACY.indd 137

19/12/2014 11:23

O F F I C I N E PA N E R A I

Officine Panerai’s new manufacture opened in 2014

L E GAC Y

WA T C H J O U R N A L

Officine Panerai began as a watchmaker’s shop, then morphed into a watchmaking company that designed, produced and supplied its timepieces exclusively to the Royal Italian Navy. All of its watches were purpose built, created to exactly suit the needs of navy divers, sailors and officers. Despite the fact that they were created as tools, they had a highly distinctive look that survives in the brand’s designs to this day.

Panerai was a niche collector’s brand until 1993, when it was introduced to the general public. Its unique styling and authentic history appealed to collectors and watch lovers alike, making it one of the watch industry’s best success stories. In 2005, Panerai began to make its own movements, transforming the brand into the true watchmaking concern it is today. panerai.com 138

181_LEGACY.indd 138

19/12/2014 11:23

WA T C H J O U R N A L

1943

1860

1950

Giovanni Panerai opens his shop on Ponte delle Grazie in Florence. It was a shop and a workshop, as well as the city’s first watchmaking school.

The evolution from Radiomir to Luminor is completed at the end of the Second World War. Characterized by its crownprotecting bridge, the Luminor has reinforced wire lugs created from the same block of steel as the case, a cushion-shaped one similar to the the Radiomir 1940 and a flat, wider bezel. Today, models with this case are known as Luminor 1950.

L E GAC Y

Officine Panerai presents the prototype of the Mare Nostrum, a two-counter chronograph specifically designed for deck officers. It is believed that only two or three of these watches were ever made, and all that remains of them are some photographs and a single example discovered in 2005.

1993 Officine Panerai presents a collection of three series of limitededition watches for the public: the Luminor, the Luminor Marina and the Mare Nostrum, which draw inspiration from the models created for Second World War commandos. They immediately become highly sought after by collectors. The presentation of the collection takes place in September on the Italian Navy cruiser “Durand De La Penne,” with a ceremony attended by Duke Amedeo D'Aosta.

O F F I C I N E PA N E R A I

1997

1936 On the eve of the Second World War, Panerai creates the first prototypes of the model now known as Radiomir for the frogman commandos of the First Submarine Group Command of the Royal Italian Navy. The Navy’s historical archives record that just ten prototypes were produced, and today's Radiomir retains many of the prototype’s features.

The Richemont Group (then Vendôme Group) acquires Officine Panerai. The following year sees the brand’s debut on the international fine watchmaking market. The collection comprises two models: the Luminor and the Luminor Marina in three versions. The Mare Nostrum, previously presented in 1993, is relaunched in a new version with a narrower bezel, a screw-down caseback and motionwork outside the hour circle.

139

181_LEGACY.indd 139

19/12/2014 11:23

WA T C H J O U R N A L

2010

L E GAC Y

On the occasion of the 400th anniversary of his first celestial observations, Officine Panerai dedicates three complex models to Galileo Galilei: L’Astronomo, Lo Scienziato and the Jupiterium clock. The Jupiterium is a planetary clock with a perpetual calendar that shows the positions in the celestial sphere of the sun and the moon as well as Jupiter with its four main satellites, the so-called Galilean moons. These were observed for the first time by Galileo Galilei in 1610.

2001 After a meticulous renovation, Panerai’s historic boutique is reopened—a restyling of the original Piazza San Giovanni location in Florence, following the acquisition of the family shop by Officine Panerai. This artisan’s workshop becomes a meeting place where brand collectors and enthusiasts find pieces from the current collection as well as special editions.

2012 Officine Panerai reissues an exclusive and historical case with two special-edition Radiomir 1940 models. Unlike those in production at the end of the 1930s, some historical Radiomir models of the 1940s had lugs that were made from the same block as the case, making them more solid and resistant. The new Radiomir 1940 models use this special case with a classic 47-mm diameter.

O F F I C I N E PA N E R A I

2005 Officine Panerai launches its first in-house movement: The P.2002 is a hand-wound caliber with GMT function and an eight-day power reserve, its functions akin to the Angelus movements used in the 1940s. The caliber takes its name from the year in which Officine Panerai inaugurated its production plant.

2013 Officine Panerai launches three new in-house movements including the sophisticated P.9100/R with regatta countdown.

The Luminor 1950 Regatta 3 Days Chrono Flyback Titanio was inspired by the world of classic sailing. This is a chronograph with an automatic movement and a three-day power reserve, fitted with the Regatta countdown function, specifically created for yacht-racing starts.

2014 2007 Officine Panerai presents three new calibers designed and developed in-house: the P.2003, the P.2004 and the innovative P.2005, which features a unique twist on the tourbillon. The cage housing the balance wheel and the escapement rotate on an axis that is perpendicular to the balance wheel axis (rather than parallel). The cage of the Officine Panerai tourbillon completes one rotation in thirty seconds.

Officine Panerai opens its new manufacture in Pierre-à-Bot, in the hills of Neuchâtel, Switzerland. The new building houses in a single location all of the highly specialized skills involved in fine watchmaking. Since 2002, when its first manufacture opened, Panerai has developed a full range of in-house movements with watch functions at the highest levels, from the GMT to a complete range of Chronographs, to the extended Power Reserve and the unmistakable Panerai Tourbillon. In 2014 Panerai introduces the P.4000 caliber, an in-house automatic movement distinguished by its off-center oscillating weight.

140

181_LEGACY.indd 140

19/12/2014 11:23

WA T C H J O U R N A L

The Montblanc Villeret 1858 ExoTourbillon Rattrapante

Watch Advisor

181_ADVISORS.indd 141

18/12/2014 17:25

WA T C H J O U R N A L

CELLINI JEWELERS Hotel Waldorf-Astoria 301 Park Ave. New York, NY 10022 Tel. 212.751.9824

WA T C H A D V I S O R

Madison Avenue 509 Madison Ave. New York, NY 10022 Tel. 212.888.0505 Product Range: A Lange & Sรถhne, Audemars Piguet, Bell & Ross, Franck Muller, Girard-Perregaux, Greubel Forsey, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, Ulysse Nardin, Vacheron Constantin, Zenith and more Website: cellinijewelers.com

CELLINI JEWELERS

Email: info@cellinijewelers.com

142

181_ADVISORS.indd 142

18/12/2014 17:26

WA T C H J O U R N A L

CELLINI JEWELERS Leon Adams – Founder & President

Leon Adams founded Cellini in 1977 and currently operates two locations in New York. His fascination with fine timepieces continues to this day. “I love the fact that they’re miniature machines. They operate 24 hours a day, seven days a week, but require very little care for how consistently they operate. They truly are mechanical marvels,” he says. “There are so many different case shapes and dial designs, and so many innovative movements available. There’s always something exciting going on in the watch world.”

WA T C H A D V I S O R

ABOUT LEON ADAMS

What advice would you give to a new collector? An established collector?

Only buy what you like. The same thing—it’s advice that is true for any collector, whether they’re just starting out, or have been collecting for years.

How do you recommend caring for your watch?

Wear your watch daily. If you can’t, try to wind it at least once a week. Wear it under normal conditions. Avoid wearing it while playing extremely active sports. Follow a regular maintenance program. As long as it’s running fine, I suggest not sending it in for service.

—Leon Adams PERSONAL RECOMMENDATION

CELLINI JEWELERS

Adams’ favorite restaurant is Primola, an Italian eatery on Manhattan’s Madison Avenue. He recommends The Mark, an intimate, elegant hotel on Manhattan’s Upper East Side. For nearby shopping, he chooses Bergdorf Goodman, the world-famous emporium for clothing and accessories.

“It’s not about finding a great watch—it’s about helping someone find the right watch.”

143

181_ADVISORS.indd 143

18/12/2014 17:26

WA T C H J O U R N A L

WA T C H A D V I S O R

TOPPER FINE JEWELERS Russ & Rob Caplan – Owners

ABOUT RUSS AND ROB CAPLAN Brothers Russ and Rob Caplan are the owners of Topper Fine Jewelers. Their combined talents have made the store a unique destination for collectors. “My brother Rob and I try our best to put together an eclectic array of products that cover a broad spectrum of style and price. We work hard to ensure our store is a comfortable, vibrant place that we enjoy hanging out in.” says Caplan. “I look around and think that our store is a bit like taking a field trip to a really great museum for watch enthusiasts.”

What obstacles do you face with carrying the right watches?

I think the constant pressure for us to have the right product in stock is extremely challenging. That includes having a product mix that features the correct brands as well as having the “hot” watches produced by those brands in stock. We plan ahead and consider brands for the future, fussing about our inventory, and study trends allowing us to develop the strong brand mix and product selection in our store.

—Russ Caplan PERSONAL RECOMMENDATION

TOPPER FINE JEWELERS

"Mingalaba is a Burmese restaurant down the block from our store on Burlingame Avenue. Mango salad, Rangoon lamb, coconut chicken soup and Burmese style string beans...when are we eating?

“Watches are amazing pieces of functional mechanical art that you get to wear every day. The fusion between modern high-tech manufacturing with old-world craftsmanship is very intriguing.”

144

181_ADVISORS.indd 144

18/12/2014 17:26

WA T C H J O U R N A L

TOPPER JEWELERS 1315 Burlingame Ave. Burlingame, Calif. 94010 Tel. 650.347.2221 Product Range: Ball, Ernst Benz, Glash端tte Original, Longines, Michele, OMEGA, Oris, Rado, Zenith and more, and watchwinders by Orbita and Wolf

Email: info@topperjewelers.com

WA T C H A D V I S O R

Website: topperjewelers.com

TOPPER FINE JEWELERS

145

181_ADVISORS.indd 145

18/12/2014 17:26

WA T C H J O U R N A L

CLARKSON JEWELERS 1306 Clarkson/Clayton Center Ellisville, Mo. 63011 Tel. 636.227.2006

Website: clarksonjewelers.com Email: info@clarksonjewelers.com

CLARKSON JEWELERS

WA T C H A D V I S O R

Product Range: Rolex, Carl F. Bucherer, TAG Heuer, Breitling, David Yurman and Patek Philippe

146

181_ADVISORS.indd 146

18/12/2014 17:26

WA T C H J O U R N A L

CLARKSON JEWELERS Scott Bolozky – Owner

Scott Bolozky founded Clarkson Jewelers in Saint Louis, Missouri, more than 30 years ago. His secret for success comes from an offering a variety of pieces that appeal to customers at every stage of life. Bolozky focuses on personal service for collectors and clients, and creates an atmosphere that is welcoming. “Timepieces are a huge part of our business and we carry the best selection in town,” he says. Bolozky also emphasizes the importance of ambiance: “Our people smile, engage with customers and know their names. It’s a nice place to be.”

WA T C H A D V I S O R

ABOUT SCOTT BOLOZKY

Should I be concerned about buying a watch online?

I’ve been asked this before, and probably the biggest concern is the ability for uneducated customers to get taken advantage of by internet sites claiming to sell the same merchandise as we do. We spend time to help educate customers on why it’s not a good idea to buy online from a retailer they’ve never met. We combat those issues with personal service and peace of mind.

—Scott Bolozky PERSONAL RECOMMENDATION

There’s a speakeasy called the Thaxton—you need to give a password at the door to enter. You can’t get in unless someone’s given you the password and it changes each day. My favorite restaurant in the area is probably Annie Gunn’s. It has a great atmosphere and excellent food. We also have an old hotel in town called the Cheshire. It was recently renovated and has a great St. Louis location. It was also the set for the movie “Up in the Air.” CLARKSON JEWELERS

“Watches are intricate mechanisms, but at the same time serve a pivotal function in people’s lives. Where would we be without time?”

147

181_ADVISORS.indd 147

18/12/2014 17:26

WA T C H J O U R N A L

WA T C H A D V I S O R

HYDE PARK JEWELERS Damon Gross ­— Chief Operating Officer

ABOUT DAMON GROSS Damon Gross is the chief operating officer of Hyde Park Jewelers, which started in 1976 in Denver, Colorado. Today, it also has locations in Arizona, Las Vegas and California, and ranks as one of the top 25 independent jewelers in the country. The store offers designer jewelry and diamonds along with timepieces, as well as custom jewelry and repairs. “We represent all major watch brands and have larger collections within those brands than most,” says Gross. “We will get first deliveries of new, special and unique products well before others in the country.” The store has been involved in philanthropy throughout its history, and runs its own nonprofit, called Diamonds in the Rough, which has raised more than $500,000 for causes that relate to children.

What advice would you give to someone’s considering a watch purchase?

I would recommend that a new collector stay with historic brands and create a collection around what that brand was or is best known for. I tell established collectors to buy fewer but more important pieces. In general, make sure the watch you are purchasing fits your lifestyle. A fine timepiece is one of the few items you will ever own that your will wear every hour of every day, so make sure the watch you will purchase fits your lifestyle today and in the future.

—Damon Gross

H Y D E PA R K J E W E L E R S

PERSONAL RECOMMENDATION A restaurant that my wife and I enjoy going to over and over is TAG in downtown Denver. Troy Guard, the restaurant’s owner and chef, always does an outstanding job of offering the freshest, most interesting ingredients in a social environment.

TAG, not unlike Hyde Park Jewelers, is very active in the community and gives back every chance it gets.

“A fine timepiece is the only accessory I wear and rely on daily. I love looking at my wrist and seeing all the intricacies on the dial. Whether it be the hand guilloché moon phase or the sub-dial, it seems that every time I look at my watch, there is something new that intrigues me. My watch is the first thing I put on in the morning, and the last thing I take off before bed.”

148

181_ADVISORS.indd 148

18/12/2014 17:26

WA T C H J O U R N A L

HYDE PARK JEWELERS 3000 East First Ave., Suite 243 Denver, Colo. 80206 Tel. 303.333.4446 2502 East Camelback Road Phoenix, Ariz. 85016 Tel. 602.667.3541

Website: hydeparkjewelers.com

WA T C H A D V I S O R

Product Range: Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier, Chopard, IWC and JaegerLeCoultre

H Y D E PA R K J E W E L E R S

149

181_ADVISORS.indd 149

18/12/2014 17:26

WA T C H J O U R N A L

DARAKJIAN JEWELERS 101 Willits St. Birmingham, Mich.

48009 Tel. 888.843.6659

Website: darakjian.com Email: info@darakjian.com

DA R A K J I A N J E W E L E R S

WA T C H A D V I S O R

Product Range: Audemars Piguet, Bremont, Carl F. Bucherer, Devon, Maurice Lacroix and Montblanc

150

181_ADVISORS.indd 150

18/12/2014 17:26

WA T C H J O U R N A L

DARAKJIAN JEWELERS Armen Darakjian – Owner

Armen Darakjian is celebrating the 50th anniversary of Darakjian Jewelers, a familyowned retailer. At the end of last year, the company opened a brand-new store in Michigan that continues to focus on the same high-level service offered since it was founded in 1964. “Most of our brands are unique to us in Michigan,” Darakjian says.

“Walking into Darakjian Jewelers will automatically give you a different selection than any other store here. The comments we hear are often, ‘I’ve only seen that in magazines!’”

WA T C H A D V I S O R

ABOUT ARMEN DARAKJIAN

What makes your store stand apart from others?

Personality! Not only in our associates, but also in the brands we carry. Clients today want choices, and the proper professional to help guide them through the purchase process. More than two decades of attending Baselworld also gives us a vast knowledge of all brands, mainstream or exotic, boutique or conglomerate. The shopping experience also sets us apart: Champagne, mimosas, espressos and cappuccinos are standard. The consultation desks allow for one-on-one conversations to ensure the clients are comfortable and excited about their purchases. And laughter—laughter plays a major role in the personality of our store. Don’t be shocked if you’re in one day and there’s laughter and drinks.

—Armen Darakjian PERSONAL RECOMMENDATION

“Visiting the many factories in Switzerland and seeing what goes into the creation of complex [watches] makes you appreciate the creative artisan hands of watchmakers.

That being said, the most fun thing about watches is the fact that they are personal. When you buy a timepiece, it speaks to you. Timepieces go where you go.”

DA R A K J I A N J E W E L E R S

I just recently went to the launch of Willys Detroit. It’s located in the old factory of the Willys jeep from World War II. The store carries a variety of products, from clothes to watches to candles, and everything is made in the US. It’s a great concept and in an area of town that is being rebuilt. The layout and the merchandising displays are really well done.

151

181_ADVISORS.indd 151

18/12/2014 17:26

THE HYPERSONIC CHRONOGRAPH Always ahead of its time, Bell & Ross continues to innovate with the launch of the BR-X1, a high-tech chronograph with a sporty design, which is as robust as it is sophisticated. Revolutionary in its design, the BR-X1 is the first watch of a new collection from Bell & Ross and the beginning of a whole new chapter in the saga of the brand. An extreme version of the BR-01, whose iconic square shape is directly inspired by aeronautical flight instruments, the BR-X1 is much more than a top-of-the-range contemporary sports watch: it is the “Ultimate Utility Watch”.

RESISTANCE, ERGONOMICS, FUNCTIONALITY: THE BR-X1 TRILOGY

HIGH FUNCTIONALITY SUPPORTED BY TECHNOLOGY AND SOPHISTICATION

As tough as a 4x4, but as light as a drone, the BR-X1 stands out because of the innovative design of its 45mm case made from grade 5 titanium.

The square case of the BR-X1 is covered with a high-tech band made from ceramic and rubber. It is designed as a cover around the edges, acting as a defensive shield that protects it from possible impacts.

Its innovative rocker push-buttons are used to activate the chronograph functions; these push-buttons are also made from high-tech ceramic with ergonomically-designed rubber inserts. The objective: to make them as solid and easy to grip as possible. A rubber button grip insert is also built into the case at 9 o’clock, to make it easier to activate the chronograph functions, even when wearing gloves. The BR-X1 features the perfect combination of materials and qualities – titanium, ceramic and rubber— which make it light, virtually scratch-proof and ergonomic. With its sporty appeal and complex design, its case features functional non-indexed screws. The sapphire

The chronograph is the complication par excellence in aviation. It can measure short periods of time and has become an essential tool in navigation.

It is mainly for these reasons that the chronograph has always enjoyed a special place among the Bell & Ross aviation watch experts. It is only natural that the latest creation from Bell & Ross – the BR-X1 – is not just any chronograph. Its rare skeleton chronograph movement is an exceptional motor combining haute horlogerie finishes and extreme lightness. Structured in the shape of an “X”, its upper bridge (treated with black DLC) reads like a mark of its identity. “X” is the code name that refers to NASA’s experimental projects, and which gives the watch its name: the BR-X1.

181_ADS.indd 63

glass has an anti-glare coating to ensure perfect legibility in all circumstances.

Revolutionary and ultra-masculine, the design of this latest generation case, using a combination of materials makes the possibilities endless. It also opens up a vast potential for creativity, mostly in customisation.

The perfect illustration of Bell & Ross expertise in the world of professional watches and master watchmaking, the BR-X1 is an exceptional instrument with an innovative design, produced in a limited edition of just 250 pieces.

19/12/2014 10:52