Watch Your Time - USA Edition - 2017 by Watch Your Time

special watch magazine

the elegance of time

THE YEAR’S NEW WATCHES AS SEEN BY AUDEMARS PIGUET, BVLGARI, CARTIER, FREDERIQUE CONSTANT, GIRARD-PERREGAUX, HUBLOT, LONGINES, PIAGET, RADO, ROLEX, SEIKO, TAG HEUER, TISSOT, ULYSSE NARDIN, VACHERON CONSTANTIN… S P ECI A L A DV ER T IS I N G S U P P L EM EN T TO

THE NEW YORK TIMES USA EDITION SUNDAY OCTOB ER 22, 2017

TO BREAK THE RULES, YOU MUST FIRST MASTER THEM. THE VALLÃ&#x2030;E DE JOUX. FOR MILLENNIA A HARSH, UNYIELDING ENVIRONMENT; AND SINCE 1875 THE HOME OF AUDEMARS PIGUET, IN THE VILLAGE OF LE BRASSUS. THE EARLY WATCHMAKERS WERE SHAPED HERE, IN AWE OF THE FORCE OF NATURE YET DRIVEN TO MASTER ITS MYSTERIES THROUGH THE COMPLEX MECHANICS OF THEIR CRAFT. STILL TODAY THIS PIONEERING SPIRIT INSPIRES US TO CONSTANTLY CHALLENGE THE CONVENTIONS OF

+888.214.6858 | AUDEMARSPIGUET.COM

FINE WATCHMAKING.

ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE CHRONOGRAPH IN STAINLESS STEEL

AUDEMARS PIGUET BOUTIQUES: NEW YORK | BAL HARBOUR SHOPS | BEVERLY HILLS | LAS VEGAS | BRICKELL

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES

PUBLISHER-FOUNDER CHRISTIAN LLAVALL-UBACH MANAG ING D IREC TOR ISABELLE BOUDR INGH IN WATCH COMMUNICATION SPECIALIST ERIC DUMATIN EDITORIAL DIRECTOR CHRISTOPHE ROULE T WRITERS CAROL BESLER , VINCENT DAVE AU, L AURIE K AHLE, ROBERTA NA AS, CHRISTOPHE ROULE T TR ANSL ATION SANDR A PE TCH ART DIRECTION VINCENT FESSELE T,

WATCH YOUR TIME

OUR COVER

BRUNO AVEILLAN

S P EC I A L WATC H E D I T I O N

L A CASAGR ANDE (GENE VA), PHOTOENGR AVING BOMBIE (GENE VA) PRINTED IN EU • REPRODUCTION, EVEN PARTIAL , OF MATERIAL PUBLISHED IN WATCH YOUR TIME IS

USA EDITION SUNDAY OCTOBER 22, 2017 This advertising supplement is produced by Editions Temps International and did not involve the reporting or editorial staff of The New York Times.

TISSOT SLAM DUNK! 9 PIAGET YOUR EXCELLENCY 13 EDITORIAL TIME AND ART 15 LONGINES ELEGANCE IS AN ATTITUDE 17 AUDEMARS PIGUET TIME ON HIS SIDE 18 VACHERON CONSTANTIN TRUE TO TRADITION 20 HUBLOT FIRST PLACE 22 CARTIER FELINE ICON 24 THREE-HAND PERFECTION

REV INTO GEAR

SPORT

CLASSIC

BVLGARI THE SERPENT’S CHARM 41 TAG HEUER AVANT-GARDE 42 ROLEX IN FULL SWING 44 ROLE REVERSAL

LADIES

PHOTOGRAPHER BRUNO AVEILL AN

ST YLISM IRINA MARIE HAIR OLIVIER LEBRUN

PIAGET ALTIPLANO 40 MM

MAKE UP MARIA OLSSON

EMBEDDED AT THE VERY HE ART OF PIAGE T’S CRE ATIVE SIGNATURE CHAR ACTERISTICS, COLOR AND LIGHT NATUR ALLY FIND THEIR PL ACE WITHIN THE 60 th ANNIVERSARY COLLECTION OF THE ALTIPL ANO.

Multi-award-winning film director and photographer Bruno Aveillan is one of the most sought-after artists in the world. He is behind many brand-associated films, including for Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Swarovski, Shangri-La, Lanvin and Guerlain. His film L’Odyssée by Cartier, which was shown at the MoMA in New York, has been seen by more than 160 million people and received over 40 Golden Awards across the world. As a visual artist, Bruno Aveillan regularly exhibits his work in galleries and museums all over the world. He has just made Divino Inferno, an art film devoted to Rodin which premiered at the Grand Palais in Paris.

MODEL GERMAIN LOUVE T

JEAN-CLAUDE BIVER THE MAGIC TOUCH 51 RICHARD MILLE

MASTER MILLE

PRODUCER MICHELE FILOMENO CLOTHES SHIRT JILL SANDER

JACKE T FENDI ⁄ PANTS GOLDEN GOOSE DELUXE BR AND SHOES CAMPER ⁄ SCARF INNANGELO

THE CRE ATIVIT Y CULTIVATED BY PIAGE T IS CONFIRMED THROUGH AN IRRESISTIBLE TRIO OF ALTIPL ANO 40 MM MODELS AT TIRED IN DARING COLORS, PINE GREEN IN THIS E X AMPLE

VINTAGE VANGUARD

VINTAGE

GERMAIN LOUVET AT END DECEMBER 2016, GERMAIN LOUVE T WAS MADE PRINCIPAL DANCER AT

WHICH SLIDES TOWARDS EMER ALD GREEN SURROUNDED BY A GLOWING YELLOW GOLD CASE . TO FIT NE ATLY INSIDE THIS 40 MM CASE,

THE PARIS OPER A BALLE T, FOLLOWING A PERFORMANCE

GIRARD-PERREGAUX

THE HIGHEST DISTINCTION

THE MANUFACTURE HAS DE VELOPED THE 1203P

TO THE ICONIC 12P —, THIS NEW SELF-

SUCH AS DAPHNIS E T CHLOÉ (BENJAMIN MILLEPIED), IN G MA JOR

OPPOSITE DIRECTIONS

COMPLICATIONS

WINDING MOVEMENT PICKS UP THE

THE DATE .

(JEROME ROBBINS) AND BL ACK AND WHITE (SERGE LIFAR) — ROLES HE PERFORMS WITH THE GR ACE AND FLUIDIT Y FOR WHICH HE IS SO ADMIRED.

ESSENTIAL ELEMENTS OF TIME RE AD-OFF WHILE ADDING

THE ROLE OF SIEGFRIED. SINCE THEN, HE HAS ADDED MANY CL ASSICAL AND CONTEMPOR ARY BALLE TS TO HIS REPERTOIRE

MOVEMENT. INSPIRED BY CALIBRE 1205P — PRESENTED IN 2013 AS THE NATUR AL HEIR

OF SWAN L AKE (RUDOLF NUREYE V) IN WHICH HE DANCED

SEIKO THE ART OF METAMORPHOSIS 65 ULYSSE NARDIN ON THE CREST OF A WAVE 66

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES

In 2015, Tissot became the Official Timekeeper of the NBA, the biggest partnership to date for the Swiss watchmaker, established in 1853. The deal also gives the brand access to the teams playing in this world-renowned basketball league. Sport channels infinite passion and emotion, conquering new audiences among players and spectators alike. Basketball is no exception. This is a rapid, quick-thinking game, as much mental as physical, with not an ounce of violence. The sport is dominated head and shoulders by the United States, and its premier professional organization is the National Basketball Association

slam dunk!

THE NEW TISSOT SHOT CLOCK AND TIMING SYSTEM.

(NBA) with its $5 billion of annual revenue. Built around three professional sports leagues — the National Basketball Association, the Women’s National Basketball Association, and the NBA Development League — it has offices in 13 markets worldwide. NBA games are programmed in 215 countries in 49 languages. NBA merchandise is sold at over 125,000 stores on six continents. It has one of the largest social media communities anywhere in the world, with more than one billion likes and followers across its different platforms, making it the biggest professional sports league on social media.

At end 2015, Tissot announced a six-year partnership that made it the NBA’s first ever Official Timekeeper. “This is Tissot’s most expensive deal in its entire 164-year history,” declared François Thiébaud, CEO of the Swatch Group

brand. “During the season, 30 teams play 1,230 games. This gives Tissot amazing visibility both in the United States and worldwide.” The NBA partnership is a tour de force for a brand that has made sports timing a part of its history since 1938, in a broad spectrum of disciplines from motorbike racing to cycling, rugby, hockey and fencing. Each of these sports benefits from Tissot’s timekeeping expertise through Swiss Timing, whose technologies have supported events as prestigious as the Olympic Games. The deal between Tissot and the NBA provides for a completely new timing system. This includes a state-of-the-art shot clock, the result of a year-long development, that is now used in all 29 NBA arenas. This isn’t all there is to Tissot’s presence courtside; the partnership also gives the brand access to NBA teams. To date, eleven of them have their Tissot Quickster NBA chronograph

with their logo silk-printed on the back. Not forgetting special editions, women’s collections, and the T-Touch Expert Solar NBA. As the number-one traditional Swiss watchmaker in volume sales, Tissot uses its considerable expertise and constant innovation to provide affordable watches. For example, the Tissot Everytime Swissmatic is an automatic watch with an impressive three-day power reserve whose classic styling ensures its ageless appeal. This year, Tissot is also introducing the Ballade, fitted with a new-generation mechanical movement, and the Powermatic, the first Tissot watch to incorporate a silicon balance spring — silicon is more resistant than the metals generally used for this essential component in a movement’s regulating system, and has antimagnetic properties for increased timekeeping precision. Sport and technology — Tissot’s own version of the slam dunk! Christophe Roulet

TISSOT BALLADE. A SILICON BAL ANCE SPRING IS MORE RESIS-

TISSOT T-TOUCH EXPERT SOLAR NBA SPECIAL EDITION. THE MODEL

TISSOT QUICKSTER CHICAGO BULLS EDITION. FOLLOWING THE

TA N T, F O R I N C R E A S E D LO N G E V I T Y, A N D M O R E R EG U L A R ,

REFLECTS THE INNOVATIVE TECHNOLOGY THAT TISSOT BRINGS TO

BIGGEST PARTNERSHIP ANNOUNCEMENT IN TISSOT’S HISTORY,

EN S U R I N G G R E AT ER T I M E K EEP I N G P R EC I S I O N . BY I N T RO D U -

THE COURT WITH ITS PRECISION AND INNOVATIVE TIMEKEEPING,

WITH THE NBA , TISSOT REINFORCED ITS COMMITMENT BY SIGNING

CING SI LICON’S PROPERTIES TO THE BALL ADE’S POWER MATIC

THAN KS TO ITS I M PR ESS IVE TACTI LE FUNCTIONS THAT OFFER

WITH THE CH ICAGO BULLS. TISSOT IS HONOR ING TH IS ASSO -

80 MOVEMENT, TISSOT RE VOLUTIONIZED THE WATCH INDUSTRY

A C O M PASS, A LT I M E TER AND WE ATHER FOR ECAST A M ONGST

C IATION BY CRE ATING A VERY SPEC IAL WATCH DED ICATED TO

IN ITS PRICE SEGMENT WITH A TECHNOLOGY PRE VIOUSLY ONLY

OTHERS, AND ITS DESIGN THAT REMINDS US OF THE SPORT Y AND

THE TE AM AND ITS FANS WOR LDWIDE: THE TISSOT QUICKSTER

SEEN IN HIGH-END WATCHES.

BOLD AT TITUDE THE GRE AT ATHLETES DEMONSTR ATE.

CHICAGO BULLS SPECIAL EDITION.

HIGH PROFILE

FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME USA 9

Elegance is an attitude Kate Winslet

La Grande Classique de Longines

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES

CHABI NOURI, CEO, PIAGE T

your excellency

Piaget has long-established expertise in a particular aspect of watchmaking that derives its elegance from the extreme thinness of its movements. Almost from the time it was established, in 1874 in La Côte-aux-Fées, a charming village in the Swiss Jura, the brand was listed in supplier catalogues as a specialist manufacturer of extrathin movements. This savoir-faire was brilliantly confirmed in 1957 when Valentin Piaget, grandson of founder Georges-Édouard Piaget, presented the manual-wind 9P calibre. Measuring a wafer-thin 2 millimeters, it was universally praised for its construction and extraordinary thinness. The company repeated its exploit three years later with the 12P, an automatic movement that achieved unprecedented thinness — 2.3 millimeters — thanks to an off-centered micro-rotor.

Such high-flying mechanics have been celebrated in grand style this year, six decades after the introduction of the 9P: the legendary calibre behind the Altiplano collection of watches that defy the laws of physics. Of the 25 extra-thin movements developed by Piaget, a dozen have set records for thinness in their category. This seldom-equaled expertise has earned Piaget enviable distinction as the master of extra-thin timepieces, as complex a discipline as watchmaking’s coveted “grand complications”. Similar expertise is at work in the brand’s high jewelry creations. One need look no further than the latest collection to date, Sunlight Journey, which was unveiled in Rome in June. The 127 rings, bracelets and necklaces reprise the freedom of form, radiant stones and sheer joie de vivre that were the hallmarks of Piaget in the Golden Sixties. “Sunlight Journey is inspired by the colors and light of the Amalfi coast,” says Chabi Nouri. “It was essential that we instill this collection with a modern feel through flowing, organic lines, and bold designs that express our identity. This is what our customers come to us for.” Ever since Georges-Édouard Piaget opened his workshop in 1874, “Piaget has been a pioneering name, never afraid to be bold without ever compromising on quality.” And the journey has only just begun! Eric Dumatin

PIAGET SUNNY SIDE OF LIFE CUFF. L AST MARCH, PIAGE T INTRO-

PIAGET LIMELIGHT GALA MILANESE BORN IN THE 1970S, A PERIOD

PIAGET ALTIPLANO AUTOMATIC 43 MM. TO MARK THE 60 th ANNI-

DUCED ITS L ATEST HIGH JEWELRY AND WATCHMAKING COLLEC-

PERVADED BY FREEDOM, BOLDNESS AND EXTRAVAGANCE, THE LIME-

VERSARY OF ITS ALTIPL ANO, PIAGE T HAS RE VISITED THIS ICON-

RICHARD MILLE BOUTIQUES

TION: SUNNY SIDE OF LIFE . WITH ITS E XPLOSION OF COLORFUL

LIGHT GALA BEARS ELOQUENT TESTIMONY TO THE INIMITABLE PIAGET

IC MODEL THAT FE ATURES A SUNBURST DIAL IN PIAGE T’S TR ADI-

STONES, DIAMONDS AND INTRICATE GOLD WORK , THE 150-PIECE

STYLE BASED ON A POWERFUL DESIGN VOCABULARY. SEAMLESSLY

TIONAL BLUE, A DEEP SHADE BE T WEEN COBALT AND MIDNIGHT.

ASPEN • BAL HARBOUR • BEVERLY HILLS • BUENOS AIRES • LAS VEGAS • MIAMI • ST. BARTH • TORONTO NEW YORK CITY FLAGSHIP BOUTIQUE OPENING SOON

COLLECTION CELEBR ATES A CULTURE OF JOY, AS SHOWN BY THIS

INTEGR ATED WITHIN THE CASE AND METICULOUSLY ADJUSTED, THE

INSIDE THE WHITE GOLD CASE, THE 2.35 MM-THICK CALIBRE 1200P

BE AUTIFUL WHITE GOLD CUFF, SE T WITH A COLOMBIAN EMER ALD,

MIL ANESE MESH BR ACELET MAKES A PERFECT MATCH WITH THE

REPRESENTS THE FOURTH GENER ATION OF PIAGE T ULTR A-THIN

CHRYSOPR ASE, MAL ACHITE AND DIAMONDS.

BEZEL AND ITS DIAMOND-SET ELONGATED ASYMMETRICAL LUGS.

AUTOMATIC MOVEMENTS.

Piaget’s expertise as a maker of extra-thin timepieces.” Chabi Nouri, who took over as chief executive of Piaget in April, speaks enthusiastically of the firm that puts its creative and productive might behind watches and jewelry that are made entirely in-house.

CALIBER RM 35-02 RAFAEL NADAL

After celebrating earlier in the year six decades of extra-thin watches, Piaget is demonstrating its unbridled creativity in jewelry too, an expertise that will continue to grow under the stewardship of newly-appointed CEO Chabi Nouri. “At Piaget, we’re fortunate to be firmly rooted in both watches and jewelry. This allows us to reach out to men and women with products that have a strong identity. At the same time, we must take care to present a clear and consistent image to all our clientele. My aim is to take Piaget into the future by building on its fabulous heritage so as to better reinvent the brand signature. And when I say ‘fabulous heritage’, it’s no exaggeration. Think of the hammered cuff bracelets of the 1970s or the sautoir necklaces that helped forge Piaget’s renown. Think of the Gala line, introduced sixty years ago and that we’re currently reviving. Think of

HERE COMES THE SUN…

FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME USA 13

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES

Associate Partner to Art Basel since 2013, each year Audemars Piguet shows innovative concepts inside its Collectors Lounge at the fairs in Hong Kong, Basel and Miami Beach. This is also an opportunity to showcase the work of the artists it supports.

they invited British photographer Dan Holdsworth to come visit them at the head office in Le Brassus. His brief was to immortalize La Vallée de Joux, the cradle of Swiss watchmaking and home to Audemars Piguet since it was founded in 1875. The result was far-removed from the clichéd image of flower-filled meadows and sun-dappled hills. Holdsworth instead captured

ture’s cultural and geographic origins.” A year after the start of the Art Basel partnership, the Audemars Piguet Art Commission was launched, and now coordinates the firm’s growing involvement in contemporary art. Each year, a guest curator works alongside the commissioned artists as part of this

Art Basel fairs. “Second Nature should remind the viewer of the basic principles of Audemars Piguet’s watchmaking legacy, including its home in the Vallée de Joux,” comments Errazuriz. “The strong base of the tree sculpture is grounded on core values and the deep

time and art roots are embedded in history, yet the tips of its branches reach out and are always growing, exploring and searching towards the future.” This fabulous sculpture will “grow” over the course of the year as it sprouts new elements for the different fairs. Making the tree involved a combination of handcrafting and new-gen technology including CNC milling and 3D printing. Inside the Lounge, Audemars Piguet is showing Circadian Rhythm, a video installation by Cheng Ran that propels viewers through a landscape and soundscape

RADO HYPERCHROME AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH PLASMA HIGH-TECH CERAMIC. METALLIC LOOK. MODERN ALCHEMY.

TIME IS THE ESSENCE WE ARE MADE OF

AVAILABLE AT NORDSTROM AND RADO.COM

Since 1992, Audemars Piguet has been contributing to worldwide forest conservation through its Foundation. This isn’t, however, the firm’s only extracurricular activity — it is also an increasingly committed supporter of the arts. After all, as Olivier Audemars explains, — he is the great-grandson of founder Edouard-Auguste Piguet and Vice President of the Board of Directors — “artists and craftsmen are very similar people. Just as there is no real need for anyone to hang a painting or a photograph on the wall, there is no longer a reason why anyone should choose to wear a mechanical watch. We all have the time on our cellphone. And yet certain things appeal to the heart more than to the head, and in this respect we artists and craftsmen speak the same language. Both elicit an emotional response. Both make us happy.” The directors of Audemars Piguet experienced one such artistic epiphany five years ago when, for the 40 th anniversary of the Royal Oak,

the harsh beauty of the landscape, with its jagged rocks and forests drenched in mist. “We started to see things differently,” Olivier Audemars continues, “and it soon became clear that Dan Holdsworth’s vision was far more true to life than the reality we had forged within the company. Artists have that ability to view things differently, which is why it’s worth looking at things through their eyes from time to time; it awakens us to the changes taking place that are important to us.” ART COMMISSION

This reflection led to a partnership, beginning in 2013, with Art Basel modern and contemporary art fairs. As Associate Partner, each year Audemars Piguet presents innovative concepts inside its Collectors Lounge, at the three editions in Hong Kong, Basel and Miami Beach. As the brand observes, “the displayed artworks and the spaces in which they are presented are part of a series of collaborations with artists and designers that give expression to the Manufac-

endeavor to “support the creation of works of exceptional complexity, precision, and experiential impact on an ongoing, annual basis.” In 2017, and for the second consecutive year, Audemars Piguet chose the designer Sebastian Errazuriz to imagine the concept for the Collectors Lounge. The resulting space, titled Second Nature, will travel to all three

of running water, mossy forests and the micro-universe of watchmaking, against a backdrop of natural sounds mixed in with the mechanical pulsations of an Audemars Piguet watch. Art and horology become one. Christophe Roulet

EDITORIAL WATCH YOUR TIME USA 15

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES

This year sees the 60th anniversary of the first Flagship collection, a fitting context for the launch of the Flagship Heritage by Kate Winslet, a very limited edition of five watches. Proceeds from their auction benefited the Golden Hat Foundation, co-founded by the British actress who is an ambassador for the brand. In 2016, Kate Winslet was offered a new perspective on her role as Ambassador of Elegance for Longines when she was invited to tour the brand’s manufacturing site. This immersion into a world dedicated to the infinitely small, surrounded by the very latest technology, was a complete discovery for the award-winning actress, and an insight into every aspect of producing and building a timepiece by one of the top four Swiss watchmakers — some forty highly specialized

elegance is an attitude

K ATE WINSLE T, LONGINES BR AND AMBASSADOR

HARRY WINSTON - HAUTLENCE - HERMÈS - HUBLOT - HYT - JACOB & CO. - LONGINES - MB&F - OMEGA

and complementary trades which rarely exist under one and the same roof. The experience was all the more memorable as Longines is also one of the very few watch firms that has never moved from its original location. The first “comptoir d’établissage” (where watches were assembled and sold) was opened in Saint-Imier, a small town set among the Swiss Jura mountains, in 1832. It was followed by the first full-fledged factory in 1867. Again in Saint-Imier, it remains the base for Longines’ activity. More than 800 staff are employed there. It is also where the brand set up its Museum as a showcase for this rich heritage. Fully renovated and redesigned five years ago, almost 10,000 items are now conserved there.

RICHARD MILLE - ROLAND ITEN - RUDIS SYLVA - TAG HEUER - TUDOR - ULYSSE NARDIN - URWERK - ZENITH

LOVE AT FIRST SIGHT

E X T R A O R D I N A R Y WAT C H E S A N D J E W E L R Y

AUDEMARS PIGUET - BELL & ROSS - BLANCPAIN - BREGUET - BREITLING - BVLGARI - CARL F. BUCHERER CHOPARD - CHRISTOPHE CLARET - DE BETHUNE - DE GRISOGONO - DEVON - DEWITT - DIOR - FABERGÉ FRANCK MULLER GENEVE - GIRARD-PERREGAUX - GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL - GREUBEL FORSEY - H. MOSER & CIE

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During her tour of the Museum, one of the historic pieces to catch Kate Winslet’s eye was the first Flagship, created in 1957 — a watch whose understated elegance and irreproachable technique has carried it through the decades. One look was enough to conquer Kate’s heart. If the collaboration between the watchmaker and the actress were to take on

a more tangible form, then that form would, without doubt, be that of the Flagship. And what better context than the collection’s 60 th anniversary? The decision to go ahead was an easy one, particularly as Kate Winslet is, in the brand’s words, “a source of inspiration who perfectly conveys our slogan and philosophy that Elegance is an Attitude.” Alongside Aishwarya Rai Bachchan and Chi Ling Lin, Kate has embodied Longines’ natural feminine grace since 2010. The brand couldn’t hope for a more magnificent ambassador than the British actress, who was revealed to the international public in 1997, at the age of 22, in Titanic. Her career has taken her from one landmark performance to another, and in 2009 she was awarded the Oscar for Best Actress for The Reader. She is, as the brand rightly observes, “one of the best-known and loved actresses in the world.”

In June this year, a very limited edition of five Longines Flagship Heritage by Kate Winslet was revealed at the Longines boutique on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris. The actress was closely involved in the design of the watch, which is in yellow gold. N° 1/5 belongs to the Longines Museum. N° 5/5 was given to Kate Winslet. The remaining three were auctioned to benefit the Golden Hat Foundation, co-founded by Kate Winslet. Its mission is to “change the way people on the autism spectrum are perceived” and enable wider opportunities for people with the condition. Speaking at the unveiling, Longines Vice President Juan-Carlos Capelli reminded guests that Longines’ “values have always inspired us to support charitable projects, and social responsibility remains one of our priorities.” Elegance can take many forms… Christophe Roulet

LONG INE S FL AGSHIP HERITAGE BY K ATE WINSLET. THE MODEL

LONGINE S FLAGSHIP HERITAGE BY K ATE WINSLET. IN ADDITION

IS THE RESULT OF A COMMON PROJECT FOR THE BENEFIT OF THE

TO CARRYING WINSLET’S NAME, THE VINTAGE-INSPIRED WATCHES

GO LD EN H AT F OU N DAT I O N , A C H A R I T Y C O - F OU N D ED BY K ATE

FEATURE THE SAME ALLURING BRUSHED SILVER DIAL AS LONGINES’

WINSLE T, WHICH IS DEDICATED TO CHANGING THE WAY PEOPLE

NEW FLAGSHIP HERITAGE — 60 th ANNIVERSARY 1957-2017 WATCHES.

ON THE AUTISM SPECTRUM ARE PERCEIVED. DURING A VISIT TO

THE CASEBACK OF EACH 35MM WATCH IS ENGR AVED WITH “BY K ATE

THE BR AND’S HE ADQUARTERS IN SWITZERL AND L AST YE AR , THE

WINSLE T”, AS WELL AS WITH “FL AGSHIP HERITAGE 1957 — 2017 “

ACTRESS CHOSE THE DIAL , THE CASE AND STR AP OF THE WATCH.

AND A STUNNING VINTAGE SHIP.

FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME USA 17

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES

time on his side FR ANÇOIS-HENRY BENNAHMIAS, CEO, AUDEMARS PIGUE T.

ery generally wasn’t until October. In a similar vein, we’ve cut back the number of models and points of sale. In 2011, 540 stores carried our watches compared with 320 today. The objective is to reach 250 points of sale that will be authentic partners to the brand. Plus the fact the market has responded well to the products we’ve imagined. Customers appreciate that Audemars Piguet hasn’t sold its soul to the devil in order to sell more.” This invariably upbeat CEO is convinced there are nothing but good times ahead. “Our 40,000 watches are a drop in the

Audemars Piguet CEO François-Henry Bennahmias is a man with a plan: stable production, quality distribution, scaleddown collections and impeccable quality. A winning formula. Nothing can dent the optimism of Audemars Piguet CEO FrançoisHenry Bennahmias. And why should it. After all, he is one of the few bosses in the industry whose biggest concern is to manage the company’s growth. Proof that the family-owned firm is in good health, it has hired around a hundred staff, and is in the process of building an ultra-contemporary museum for its collections of historic timepieces plus a hotel next to its manufacturing facilities in Le Brassus in La Vallée de Joux, the home of Swiss watchmaking. “People come from all over the world to visit us, and we want them to enjoy an experience worthy of our brand,” says Bennahmias. “Markets are changing and need us to adapt

to new trends in society. Today’s customers expect the exceptional, and it’s only natural that we should go out of our way to give them this.” Why change a winning formula? Bennahmias intends to maintain production at current levels (40,000 units a year) for the next five years, rather than push sales and risk flooding the market.

“We’re reaping the benefits of decisions taken these past couple of years, mainly to put the House in order,” says Bennahmias, who joined the firm in 1994, and was previously CEO of Audemars Piguet for North America. “We’ve worked hard to improve the quality of products and deliveries. For example, the watches we show in January at Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva are available straightaway, whereas previously deliv-

ocean compared to the 40 million people with the potential to buy a high-end timepiece. The entire Swiss watch industry generates barely a third of the revenues that a single company in the car manufacturing industry makes. It’s obvious there are more great years to come. Provided we know how to reach out to these potential clients.” In which case Audemars Piguet is ruling nothing out. Smart watches? “We’re thinking in all directions.” Online sales? “Totally compatible with luxury watches. If we’d launched the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ceramic online, orders would have been four times the 100 units we make per year. The internet is part of life. From a general perspective, digital and social media are hugely important. They represent the new language we all need to learn in order to communicate with the younger generations!” Eric Dumatin

AU D E M AR S PI G U E T MILLENARY. TH I S HAN D -WOUN D WATCH

AU D E MARS PIG UET ROYAL OAK CHRONOGR APH. IN 2017, THE

THE MAISON DES FONDATEURS. THE FUTURE AUDEMARS PIGUE T

WITH SMALL SECONDS OFFERS AN 18-K AR AT WHITE GOLD CASE,

VERY FIRST ROYAL OAK CHRONOGR APH WRIST WATCH IS CELE-

M USEUM WI LL TAKE THE FOR M OF A GL ASS SPIR AL EM ERG ING

A UNIQUE EXPERIENCE

20 th

ENTIRELY SET WITH DIAMONDS AND A CROWN SET WITH A BLUE

BR ATING ITS

ANNIVERSARY AS IT WAS FIRST INTRODUCED

F RO M T H E G R AS SY L A N D. T H E C O N C R E T E RO O F S W I L L B E

CABOCHON SAPPHIRE, THAT IS WATER-RESISTANT TO 20 METERS. IT

IN 1997. THIS YE AR ’S NE W R ANGE OF CHRONOGR APHS HAR KS

PL ANTED WITH VEGE TATION TO BLEND INTO THE SURROUNDING

SHOWS A DIAMOND-PAVED WHITE GOLD OFF-CENTERED DISC WITH

BAC K TO A M UCH- LOVED LOOK FIRST SEEN IN 2008. JUST LI KE

C OUNTRYS I DE . TH I S “ M A I SON DES FONDATEURS” WI LL STAND

ANTHR ACITE PRINTED ROMAN NUMER ALS AND A WHITE MOTHER-

THE VINTAGE E X AMPLES FROM THE 1930S — 1960S, THE DIALS OF

OPP OS I TE THE E XI ST I NG M USEU M SPACE . AN UNDERGROUND

OF-PEARL SMALL SECONDS COUNTER WITH DIAMOND-SET RING.

THE ROYAL OAK CHRONOGR APH HAVE ALWAYS BEEN THOUGHT-

PASSAGE WILL CONNECT THE T WO BUILDINGS.

FULLY DESIGNED.

18 WATCH YOUR TIME USA FOCUS

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES

true to tradition

our Manufacture should be seen in this perspective. At Vacheron Constantin, we look ahead. A long way ahead!” Not that this prevents the firm from casting an eye over its past creations and finding inspiration in its archives, a “treasure trove” not just of fine mechanisms but also agelessly beautiful, enduringly classic designs. Vacheron Constantin has returned from one such excursion into this past with an updated version of the Historiques American 1921, with a 36.50 mm diameter. This is, as its maker reminds us, a timepiece that captures the daring of an era and the superior workmanship one expects from Vacheron Constantin. It retains the features that made the original so very unique — a cushion-shaped case, tilted dial, and crown placed between 1 and 2 o’clock

LOUIS FERL A , CEO, VACHERON CONSTANTIN

After ultra-complicated watches, Vacheron Constantin returns to its heritage with timepieces that are a lesson in classicism. No-one could accuse Vacheron Constantin of staying within a well-trodden path. On the contrary, and as the Manufacture has brilliantly demonstrated these past months, it is one of the few capable of producing watches of such a rare complexity they transform horology into mechanical art. We all have in mind Reference 57260, the most complicated timepiece ever with its 57 functions — unveiled in 2015 after eight years of development for the 260th anniversary of the founding of Vacheron Constantin. As if this weren’t enough, earlier this year the brand presented two magnificent timepieces made at its Les Cabinotiers workshops, where the most technically superlative watches take form. One, the Celestia Astronomical Grande Complication 3600, displays civil time, solar time and sidereal time by means of three separate gear trains, powered by

six barrels for a power reserve of three weeks! In total, this new movement comprises 514 components contained within a height of just 8.7 millimeters.

“Established in Geneva in 1755 with a presence in the United States since 1810, Vacheron Constantin is a historic house which, over the course of the centuries, has acquired a wealth of watchmaking expertise,” comments CEO Louis Ferla. Formerly with Alfred Dunhill and Cartier International, Ferla joined Vacheron Constantin in 2015 as managing director of sales and marketing before being appointed Chief Executive in February this year. “Our master watchmakers and our artisans perpetuate this tradition which has made Vacheron Constantin highly appreciated by collectors, in markets as different as China, where our presence dates from 1845, and the United States. The extension of

— while tapping into the ongoing enthusiasm for vintage designs, albeit with characteristic elegance. The Historiques collection is precisely a vehicle for the company to revive some of its iconic styles, whether from a technical or a design perspective. Also part of this range are the Triple Calendar 1942 and the Triple Calendar 1948. Both indicate the date by a hand, with apertures for the day and the month. The former has a small seconds display while the latter has a moon-phase indication. Similar pared-down elegance can be found in the Patrimony Collection Excellence Platine or the Patrimony Moon Phase and Retrograde Date. Recent years have confirmed Vacheron Constantin as a Manufacture capable of exceptional technical prowess; we can also see it as a company proud of a tradition that shows how beautiful a classic timepiece can be. These are the two faces of excellence at Vacheron Constantin. Eric Dumatin

VACHERON CONSTANTIN PATRIMONY MOON PHASE AND RETRO-

VACHERON CONSTANTIN HISTORIQUES AMERICAN 1921 SMALL MODEL.

VACHERON CONSTANTIN HISTORIQUES TRIPLE CALENDAR 1948

GRADE DATE. WITH ITS DIAL THAT REPRODUCES THE MOON’S CYCLE

REINTERPRETED IN A 36.5 MM DIAMETER, THIS ICONIC 1920S MODEL

FOR ALMOST 20 YEARS, THE HISTORIQUES COLLECTION HAS BEEN GIV-

AND AGE, THIS NEW TIMEPIECE INVITES THE WEARER TO OBSERVE

ACQUIRES AN EVEN MORE STYLISH ALLURE. A CUSHION-SHAPED CASE

ING A NEW LEASE ON LIFE TO THE ICONS OF VACHERON CONSTANTIN’S

THE SKY. THE ELEGANT COMPLICATION COMPLEMENTS THE RETRO-

IN 18K 5N PINK GOLD, A DISTINCTIVE DIAGONAL READ-OFF, AN OFF-

TECHNICAL AND AESTHETIC HERITAGE. THIS R ANGE COMPOSED OF

GR ADE DATE DISPL AY. FEATURING A NEW MANUFACTURE CALIBRE,

CENTERED CROWN BETWEEN 1 AND 2 O’CLOCK: THE HISTORIQUES

LEGENDARY WATCHES REVISITED WITH A CONTEMPOR ARY TWIST IS

THE MODEL BEARS THE PRESTIGIOUS POINÇON DE GENÈVE STAMP.

AMERICAN 1921 SMALL MODEL CONTINUES FLAUNTING ITS VINTAGE CRE-

PRODUCED IN MODEST QUANTITIES. AMONG THESE CREATIVE ARCHE-

DENTIALS WHILE REMAINING TRUE TO ITS ORIGINAL AESTHETIC CODES.

T YPES: THIS FULL CALENDAR WRIST WATCH WITH MOON PHASES.

20 WATCH YOUR TIME USA FOCUS

CLASSICAL ELEGANCE

T H E M A R K O F A CA P TA I N . When explorers roamed the oceans, the torpilleur was the captain’s watch – a pocket chronometer which was the mark of his rank b oth onsh ore an d of f. To day ’s urban explorer s prefer to captain their own destiny. For them, we present our new Torpilleur: at once casual, elegant and resolutely modern. Quality without compromise.

Marine Torpilleur 60 hours power reserve. Self-winding manufacture. Silicium technology. ulysse-nardin.com

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES

first place

plagued by hooligan supporters. Hublot, on the other hand, saw the potential and now reigns in a sport whose last World Cup in Brazil, in 2014, kept more than three billion fans on the edge of their seats, and eyes riveted on the boards, emblazoned with the Hublot logo, that were held aloft by the assistant referees. In terms of audience, Hublot can also count on its presence in Formula 1 racing. One of the world’s most popular sports, 400 million people tuned in to watch last year. Once again, Hublot struck gold when it joined forces with the prestigious Ferrari team. Both partners speak the same language, and this meeting of mechanical minds continues to work wonders after six years in the paddocks.

Style is automatic. TISSOT everytime swissmatic. UP TO 3 DAYS OF POWER RESERVE.

RICARDO GUADALUPE, CEO, HUBLOT

Hublot is more than a brand on a dial. It’s a name seen on the waters of a sailing regatta, at the tip of a tattoo artist’s needle, on the sidelines of a soccer field, on the keys of a piano at a classical music recital, or in the cockpit of a Formula 1 car. Moreover, these eclectic choices are one of the brand’s strengths. Hublot is everywhere. Especially where least expected. Which is only natural coming from a brand that applies its concept of fusion to all that it does. The fusion of materials to produce unprecedented alloys; the fusion of tradition and cutting-edge technologies in prestigious timepieces; the fusion of trends and cultures within a contemporary brand that moves with the times. A Classic Fusion Veuve Clicquot, named after the famous champagne house and produced as a limited edition of ten to mark the tenth anniversary of the Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic, held at Liberty State Park, looking

across to the Manhattan skyline; a longstanding partnership with the 79th Bol d’Or regatta, played out on the Franco-Swiss waters of Lake Geneva; a new store in Moscow, opened by soccer legend Pelé… who last year teamed up with Usain Bolt to cut the ribbon at Hublot’s flagship store on New York’s Fifth Avenue; a Big Bang to celebrate Malaysia’s 60th Independence Day… and all that in the same month. No-one can accuse Hublot of resting on its laurels. “Wherever our customers go, that’s where we must be,” CEO Ricardo Guadalupe declares. “We do what it takes to make Hublot a part of their life.” Hublot’s determination to boldly go has sometimes proved nothing short of genius. One example among many is the brand’s venture into soccer (or football, to give the sport its European name). Traditionally, the big brands have steered clear of the game, which has been

The latest illustration to date: the Techframe is a giant of a watch with the streamlined profile of a racing car. “This watch, a celebration of Ferrari’s 70 th anniversary, comes from a close collaboration between Hublot and the Ferrari Design Centre,” says Ricardo Guadalupe. “It opens up new possibilities, with an exceptional movement incorporating a chrono, a tourbillon and a fiveday power-reserve display inside a carbon case.” Hublot is no stranger to the unconventional. Think of this year’s MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis, its very first multiaxial tourbillon. Not forgetting the colored Sapphire watches, a demonstration of its unique capacity to fuse synthetic sapphire. And of course its best-sellers, the Classic Fusion and the Big Bang whose dials cheerfully lend themselves to St. Gallen embroidery, leather or tartan. A reminder that for Hublot, excellence and originality go hand-in-hand. Eric Dumatin

HUBLOT MP- 09 TOURBILLON BI-AXIS. ONLY THOSE CAPABLE OF

H UBLOT TECHFR AME FERR ARI 70 YE ARS TOURBILLION CHRO -

HUBLOT

WEARING AN IMPRESSIVE 49-MM DIAMETER CAN HAVE THE PRIVILEGE

NOGR APH. H U B LOT D I D M O R E T H A N P U T T H E P R EST I G I O U S

CONCRETE JUNGLE. THIS WATCH, THE BR AND’S FIRST CONCRETE

OF ADMIRING HUBLOT’S FIRST EVER MULTI-AXIS TOURBILLON. WHEN

AUTOMAKER ’S NAM E ON THE DIAL OF THIS FAST AND FUR IOUS

TIMEPIECE CO-DESIGNED BY VISIONARY STREE T ARTIST TRISTAN

SHOWING OFF THIS NEW MECHANISM, IT’S A CASE OF “THINK BIG”

WATCH. DESIGNED BY FERR ARI, THE MODEL IS THE HOROLOGICAL

E ATO N , I S A T R I B U T E TO N E W YO R K C I T Y. L I M I T ED TO J UST

WITH A DESIGN THAT LE AVES FUNCTION FREE TO DEFINE FORM.

EQUIVALENT OF A SUPERCAR . ITS HIGH-PERFORMANCE CHASSIS

50 PIECES, THE MODEL OFFERS A HIGHLY E XCLUSIVE CHANCE TO

THIS HAS RESULTED IN A “WINDOW” AT 6 O’CLOCK THAT ALLOWS AN

WAS DESIGNED AROUND THE WATCH’S “ENG INE” — HUB LOT’S

OWN A PIECE THAT EMBODIES THE LIVELINESS, TENACIT Y, AND

UNRESTRICTED VIEW OF THE BI-AXIAL TOURBILLION.

HUB6311 CALIBRE WITH MONOPUSHER CHRONO, TOURB I LLON

INSPIR ATION OF THE CIT Y AS INTERPRE TED BY HUBLOT.

DO DIFFERENT

C L AS S I C

FUSION

AEROFUSION

CHRONOGR APH

#ThisIsYourTime

AND FIVE-DAY POWER RESERVE .

22 WATCH YOUR TIME USA FOCUS

T I S S OT s h o p. C O M TISSOT, INNOVATORS BY TRADITION

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES CALIBRE 9918 MC. THE AUTOMATIC CALIBRE 9919 MC IS HOUSED

C A R T I E R PAN T H ÈR E J O U EU S E WAT C H. T H E PA N T H E R I S A

IN A 44 M M WH ITE GOLD CASE SE T WITH BR I LLIANT- CUT D IA-

SPEC IAL AN I M AL FOR CAR TI ER . HER E IT APPE ARS I N P L AYFU L

MONDS. COMPRISING 214 COMPONENTS, IT OFFERS A POWER

FORM , THANKS TO A NE W COMPLICATION IN THE BR AND’S COL-

RESERVE OF 48 HOURS. BECAUSE THE PANTHER’S PAW TR ACKS

LECTIONS. SPR ING ING FORTH FROM THE DEP THS OF THE DIAL ,

THE MINUTES AND THE BALL SHOWS THE HOURS, THE PANTHER

TH E A N I M A L TR I ES TO CATC H A BA L L . TH E PA N TH ER ’S H E A D

MANAGES TO CATCH THE BALL ONCE E VERY 60 MINUTES. IT’S A

AND PAW I ND I CATE THE M I NUTES, WH I LE THE BALL M AR KS THE

FINE E X AMPLE OF NE VER GIVING UP!

PASS I NG HOURS . CAR TIE R PANTHÈRE . IN THE 1980S, CARTIER ’S FAMOUS PANTHER BECAME ASSOCIATED WITH A COLLECTION OF WATCHES RECOGNISABLE FOR THEIR SQUARE CASE, METAL BR ACELET AND SCREW-LOCKED CROWN. THE PANTHÈRE R ANGE WAS DISCONTINUED AT THE TURN OF THE CENTURY, BUT RE TURNS THIS YE AR WITH NO LESS THAN 17 WATCHES IN TWO SIZES (22 MM AND 27 MM) IN GOLD, STEEL AND T WO-COLOR VERSIONS.

CYRILLE VIGNERON, PRESIDENT AND

CARTIER DRIVE E X TR A-FLAT. THIS NEW VERSION OF THE DRIVE

CEO OF CARTIER

HAS AN UNDERSTATED ELEGANCE WITH ITS CUSHION-SHAPED

INTERNATIONAL

CASE , WHICH IS 7 M M THICK — 40% FL AT TER THAN THE ORIGINAL MODEL . THE SUNBURST SATIN-FIN ISHED DIAL , FL AT SAPPHIRE GL ASS AND REFINED ALLIGATOR STR AP CONTRIBUTE TO THE CLE AN LINES. UNDERSTATED, E XTR A-FL AT AND SMALLER , IT HER ALDS A NEW LOOK FOR THE COLLECTION.

feline icon THE CARTIER STORE ON THE CHAMPS-ELYSÉES,

P h o to N i c o l a s G u e r b e © C a r t i e r

PARIS

Having imposed its inimitable signature in jewelry, and confirmed its expertise in highly complicated timepieces, the Parisian firm continues to forge ahead with watches that are distinctive, affordable, and so very Cartier. Mention the panther to anyone with even a passing interest in luxury items, and chances are they will answer with the Cartier name. For more than a century, the feline has been an emblem of the watchmakerjeweler, lending itself to countless renderings from fully-formed likenesses to mere suggestions of its presence, each a demonstration of Cartier’s complete command of artistic crafts. In the 1980s and 90s, the panther became synonymous with a collection of watches that were instantly recognisable for their square case, metal bracelet and screw-down crown: a classic timepiece that quickly made its mark among women. Yet despite its success, the Panthère line disappeared from the collections in the early 2000s to make way for more complex creations as Cartier entered the upper echelons of time measurement, where a watch 24 WATCH YOUR TIME USA FOCUS

worthy of the name could not exist without an accumulation of complications that made a simple hours and minutes display pale into insignificance. PURE PLEASURE

Here too, Cartier has employed its style and skill to exceptional effect. Proof, were it needed, came at this year’s Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva, where the brand presented the Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Mysterious Double Tourbillon, hallmarked with the Poinçon de Genève. It was, as Cartier explains, a twofold challenge: “In addition to the technical feat of assembling 448 components in a case measuring a mere 11.15 mm, the timepiece is aesthetically stunning. The openwork mechanism and contrasting black rhodium finish expose the transparency of the mysterious double tourbillon and reveal the steady rhythm of the minute repeater.” Few watchmakers have ventured into such challenging terrain, not forgetting that this mysterious double tourbillon is unique to Cartier.

However impressive they may be, such a raft of competencies — which have also produced concept watches that have opened up new potential for innovation — are not at the core of Cartier’s watchmaking business. Cyrille Vigneron, who has presided over the brand since January 2016, explains: “High watchmaking is certainly an area in which Cartier excels, and we shall continue in this vein but with limited editions.” “Today, Cartier watchmaking must propose products with a powerful status and identity, products that give pleasure. Globally speaking, in recent years there has been a tendency to constantly push out new products, with one taking the place of another, one copying another. Prices have also lost touch with what the customer considers to be a healthy reality. It’s time we stopped spreading ourselves thin and returned to lasting values. Modern technology comes with planned obsolescence whereas the luxury we propose is for ever. And beautiful, which makes people happy.”

CRYSTAL-CLEAR POSITIONING

Hence there must have been a warm glow around Cartier when it decided to revive its Panthère watch, a collection with a “powerful aesthetic that transcends generations,” in the words of Cyrille Vigneron. The brand already began to mark out its territory two years ago with the introduction of Clé de Cartier, an original collection with simple lines and fitted with a specially developed movement, Calibre 1847 MC, named in reference to the year Cartier was founded. This was the first completely new range since Ballon Bleu made its debut in 2007. As it turned out, this Clé (“key”) was to open a lot of doors: in early 2016 it reappeared as an Automatic Skeleton whose Calibre 9621 MC was the first Cartier movement to skeletonise the bridges into Roman numerals, and skeletonise the 22k gold oscillating weight while conserving its winding efficiency. As if this weren’t enough, another new line, Drive, roared onto the scene that same year, inspired by automobiles and racing with its domed sapphire crystal, a crown shaped like the bolts used to assemble

cars, and guillochage on the dial inspired by a vintage radiator grill. Dressier than its predecessor, the Roadster, Drive returned earlier this year with an extra-flat version and a moon-phase model extending the range. Bolstered by this new “crystal-clear” positioning — products with a strong identity, for men and for women, that are what the market calls for — Cyrille Vigneron is in no doubt that “Cartier watchmaking is back. This refocusing is, in itself, the best growth engine the brand could wish for. Building on this, we intend to step up our efforts in the markets, with the United States and Asia in our sights. It’s a fact that jewelry has performed better in the economic climate of recent months, but thanks to our new watch offering we can now count on two equally strong pillars to underpin our development in the months and years to come.” As a strong signal to the markets, the public will be treated to some very special events, along the lines of the unveiling, in Japan in October 2016, of the critically acclaimed Magicien high jewellery collection. “Our events were too focused on Europe,” Cyrille Vigneron

concludes. “London and Paris, to take two examples, are major cities on the luxury map, but they no longer hold any secrets for many of our customers. Our option now is to go towards Asia and the United States by inviting customers from around the world to discover new horizons and experience new sensations.” True to its word, in May the brand hosted a star-studded party in Los Angeles for the Panthère’s US launch. Alicia Keys took to the stage to perform for guests, who also watched Sofia Coppola’s film in honor of Cartier’s favorite creature, the epitome of feline strength and grace. Eric Dumatin FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME USA 25

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES

–o–––- carol besler

THREE-HAND PERFECTION Classic styling and limited functions are the new hallmarks of authenticity for watch aficionados.

BVLGARI OCTO FINISSIMO AUTOMATIC. L AUNCHED IN 2012, THE NEW OCTO HAS R APIDLY ACQUIRED A CENTR AL STATUS AT BVLGARI. IT IS BOTH AN E X AMPLE OF PRECISION WATCHMAKING AS WELL AS AN ARCHITECTUR AL DESIGN THAT REFERENCES ITALIAN FUNCTIONALISM, WHICH IS HIGHLY VALUED BY THE BR AND. THIS YE AR , THIS R ANGE OF THIN WATCHES IS E XPANDING WITH AN AUTOMATIC MODEL THAT E XUDES UNDERSTATED ELEGANCE .

The downturn in Swiss watch exports over the past two years has led to some negative balance sheets for watch brands, but also to some positive developments for collectors — who may be looking for future investment pieces in places they never expected. The 26-month slump in exports, due partly to an overvalued Swiss franc and some overproduction issues, has resulted in a paring down of new models. Gone are the massive showpieces of the golden years (2010 to 2015) with high complications, decorative dials and avant-garde designs. The rule now is classic simplicity, with minimalist dials and quotidian functions, an aesthetic that dovetails with the current lust for vintage designs. The three-hand watch was the hit of the Swiss watch fairs this year, and the preferred case material was steel. Why is this good? Steel cases and fewer bells and whistles mean lower prices, and best of all, that does not mean lower quality. Paring down has not resulted in a reversion to sub-par movements. On the contrary, there is great value and collector’s potential in modern vintage, because it combines iconic design codes with new-generation components and warranties. The vast technical advances made over the past decade have been gradually applied to new-production mechanical watches, even at the entry level. Next-generation mechanical movements contain indestructible escapements made of silicon components and other parts

E le gance is t he only b eaut y t hat neve r fade s — Audrey Hepburn ( 1 9 2 9 — 1 9 9 3 )

made of super materials like ceramic and titanium that resist wear, scratches, salt water, shocks… even bullets. Luminous coatings on markers and hands are made to last longer, and leather straps can survive deep dives. Thus, it is now possible to make a watch that looks almost exactly like a model introduced 25 or 30 years ago but with new materials and components and a state-ofthe-art movement, all without violating the fundamental principles of traditional watchmaking or the design integrity of vintage models. Even if you were to find the preowned watch of your dreams, untouched, never worn or even removed from its original packaging, and stack it up against a modern remake of that model, the remake is likely to be a superior watch with better value. This is true to varying degrees, of course, and depends on the brand, but with luxury brands, it is true almost across the board. THE THINNEST, THE MOST ELEGANT

This new and improved command of movement production embraces the technical challenge of engineering calibers to be slimmer, an important component of vintage design. The reduction trend itself

is vintage, harkening back to the 1930s when watchmakers began to size their creations for the wrist, rather than the pocket, and competition was fierce to create the thinnest, most “elegant” examples. Creating a thin caliber is not as easy as it sounds. The trick is to make it thin without making it unstable. Reduce the size of one wheel and you must follow suit with nearly every other component. Reduce it by too much and you risk breakage and leakage. The successful ones are engineered from scratch to precise tolerances and made of strong materials to be as robust as possible. The modern champion of the thin caliber is Bulgari, which holds the record for the world’s thinnest automatic movement, the 2.23 mm Calibre BVL 138, introduced this year in the Octo Finissimo Automatic. The cased watch is just 5.15 mm thick, thanks to a micro-rotor and other micro-engineered components. Full plates keep it stable. In second place for the world’s thinnest automatic caliber is Piaget, with the 1203P, at 3 mm thick, including a date window, and a thickness of just 6.36 mm in the case of the Altiplano model.

CARTIER DRIVE MOON PHASES. THIS WATCH STAYS TRUE TO THE SIGNATURE AESTHE TIC OF THE DRIVE DE CARTIER COLLECTION: WE AR ABILIT Y. WITH A CONVE X CURVED GL ASS CASE AND UNCLUT TERED WHITE GUILLOCHÉ DIAL , IT IS AVAIL ABLE IN PINK GOLD OR STEEL . IT IS FIT TED WITH THE NEW MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT 1904-LU MC. A DISTINCTIVE MOON PHASE COMPLICATION DISPL AYED AT 6 O’CLOCK TR ACKS THE CYCLE OF NEW MOONS, HALF-MOONS AND FULL MOONS. THIS COMPLICATION IS KNOWN AS “ASTRONOMIC”, NEEDING TO BE CORRECTED BY ONE DAY E VERY 125 YE ARS.

A growing number of new ultra-thin movements are hitting the market, and they serve as the foundation of nouveau vintage designs. Breguet has been making the Classique model in some form since the late 18th century, and this year’s model, CLASSIC WATCH YOUR TIME USA 29

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES

smart moves Until now, Frédérique Constant equipped its chronographs with ETA or Sellita movements derived from the well-known 7750 calibre. Since this year, the brand has added a new string to its bow in the form of a Flyback Chronograph Manufacture that is driven by a fully in-house designed and made movement. “Calibre FC-760 takes its cue from 1930s flyback chronographs,” says the brand, “and a desire to go beyond a regular chronograph construction. Whereas the regular chronograph function is used as a stopwatch to measure time during a specific elapsed interval, with a flyback, a user can operate the chronograph without resetting it to zero every time: the chronograph’s hand can be stopped, reset to zero, and restarted with one push of a button. This function is essential for timing a succession of intervals during a race.” Frédérique Constant has opted for a modular construction; 233 components make up the movement, including 96 for the flyback mechanism. Most quality chronographs use a column wheel rotating on bearings to operate the start, stop and reset functions; unusually, Calibre FC-760 has a star-shaped wheel. As the brand explains, this component, together with the operating lever which is controlled by the start/ stop pushpiece, allows for a smoother start-stop-reset sequence. The Flyback Chronograph Manufacture further confirms Frédérique Constant as a proponent of traditional watchmaking, although the brand has made substantial inroads into the smartwatch market since it launched the very first Swiss “Horological Smartwatch” in 2015. Characteristically, these connected watches display the time by the conventional means of hands on a dial. It’s a singular approach to watchmaking that has been crowned with success: the brand is investing some $10 million to double its production capacity in the canton of Geneva. C.R.

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES

the ultra-slim Classique 7147, keeps most of the original design codes: a grand feu enamel dial, Arabic Breguet numerals, open-tipped blued steel Breguet hands. The movement, however, is new. It is the extra-thin (2.4 mm) automatic Calibre 502.3SD, with a silicon balance spring and micro-adjustable balance wheel. Blancpain’s Villeret collection is similarly dedicated to design codes established in the early 19th century, yet this year’s novelty, the Villeret Day Date, contains a modern, ultra-thin movement, the 3.37 mm thick Calibre 1160. In the case, the watch is only 8.70 mm thick, despite including day and date functions and an automatic winding system. Another recent example is the Chopard L.U.C XP (XP for “extra

plat” or extra thin) with the LUC automatic Calibre 96.53-L. Despite an automatic winding system and two mainspring barrels, this movement is only 3.3 mm thick, and the steel case a mere 7.20 mm thick. In some instances, reliable movements have been newly modified to perform fewer functions for a more pared-down timepiece and, thus, a more accessible one. Those who have admired JaegerLeCoultre from a distance may now get closer by acquiring one of three new stainless steel models in its Master Control collection this year that mimick existing models but with altered movements and fewer functions. The new Geographic is the same as the previous Geographic model but without the power

reserve and the date function (Calibre 939B1 instead of Calibre 939A1); the chronograph is modified to be a twocounter instead of a three-counter (Calibre 751G instead of Calibre 751A1); the automatic with date has the same caliber as the more expensive one, but with dial modifications — the numerals are stamped rather than applied. These are not sub-par movements; they have simply been modified by a company that has made more movements than any other, and has the capability to retrofit a movement to fit any new model it designs. These modifications shave hundreds of dollars off the price. Essentially, it is a price reduction, without sacrificing the integrity of existing stock.

III

AN UNPRECEDENTED VALUE PROPOSITION

The three-hand trend has also hit the ladies’ watch market, but in this case, it’s actually an add-on rather than a paring down. Until recently, a seconds hand was a rarity in ladies’ watches because of space-saving concerns. A smaller movement is required for a smaller case, to fit a woman’s wrist. The new calibers hitting the market make extra functions like seconds and date more common on ladies’ day watches. A. Lange & Söhne’s new Saxonia collection for ladies contains the manual-wound Calibre L941.1, with all of the brand’s signature marks of excellence: three-quarter plate made of German silver, hand-engraved balance cock and adjustable balance wheel. It is the same

IIII

VII

design - driven When it comes to design, Rado has never taken its eye off the ball. Just as much a brand identifier is its use of avant-garde materials, with ceramic foremost among them. Both these principles find new applications this year in creative collaborations between Rado and three top designers, that have given rise to a trio of limited-edition watches. Each one is driven by an automatic movement (ETA C07.631) inside a high-tech ceramic case, mounted on a ceramic bracelet. The Rado True Phospo is the work of Big-Game, a Swiss design studio. One of its distinctive features is the hundreds of tiny perforations in the black brass dial that allow glimpses of the movement — a decidedly modern approach to the traditional skeleton watch. “The key words of this project were minimalism and lightness, so we decided to make the design by removing material rather than by adding it,” says BigGame. “In general we like functional and efficient design. For us, a good object must not only be practical and well-designed, it must also have a little something extra that gives it emotional value.” The second watch in the line-up is the Rado True Blaze, by American interior designer Sam Amoia. The dial’s glittery, textured surface is achieved by means of a galvanic treatment that replicates the crystalline structure of diamond powder. Completing the trio is the Rado True Stratum, the brainchild of Austrian product designer Rainer Mutsch. The black dial is circled with grooves, which are arranged in descending layers to bring out the depth and three-dimensionality of the concave surface. An oblong plate displays the Rado logo, and is mirrored on the case back by a sapphire crystal window for observing the movement. “I was trying to question, in a subtle way, how time is displayed by introducing an element of three-dimensionality to the dial, “Mutsch explains. “The appearance of the dial changes constantly depending on the light, always creating new reflections and gradients.” C.R.

VIII

F R E D E R IQ U E CON S TANT FLYBACK CHRONOGR APH MANUFACTURE. TH E FR EDER I QUE

I · CH OPAR D L.U.C XP. TH I S N E W R EN D I T I ON OF TH E

III · PIAGET POLO S WATCH AUTOMATIC. AVAIL ABLE WITH A

V · GRAND SEIKO SPRING DRIVE 8 DAYS POWER RESERVE

VII · LONGINES HERITAGE 1945. IN ITS 185 YE ARS OF E XIS-

R ADO TRUE PHOSP O AND TRUE BL A ZE. HOUSED I N A 40 M M M AT T B L AC K H IGH -TECH

CONSTANT FLYBACK CHRONOGR APH MANUFACTURE FE ATURES THE ICONIC TR AITS THAT

L.U.C XP MAKES GREAT SHOW OF ITS CURVACEOUS FORM,

STEEL BR ACELET, THIS MASCULINE WATCH HAS CONTEM-

THE NEW VERSION OF THE GR AND SEIKO REPRESENTS

TENCE , LONGINES HAS L AID M ILESTONES IN THE LONG

C ER A M I C CAS E W I T H M ATC H I N G B R AC E LE T, T H E R A DO T R U E P H OS P H O E M B R AC ES

MAKE A FREDERIQUE CONSTANT SO RECOGNIZ ABLE . THIS COLLECTION INTRODUCES T WO

WITH A STEEL CASE PAIRED WITH A SILVERED DIAL FE A-

POR ARY LINES. HOUSED IN A CASE-MIDDLE COMBINING

THE STAR STREWN NIGHT SK Y IN THE MOUNTAINS. THE

HISTORY OF WATCHMAKING DESIGN. THE BR AND OF TEN

MINIMALISM, BUT WITH PL AYFUL AND UNE XPECTED ELEMENTS. THE BL ACK BR ASS DIAL IS

MAIN VERSIONS, ONE THAT IS ESSENTIALLY CASUAL LOOKING WITH A SILVER OR DARK GREY

TUR I NG VER T I CA L SAT I N - B RUSH I NG AN D L ARGE B LUE

ROUND AND CUSHION-SHAPED FORMS, THE HORIZONTAL

18K ROSE GOLD CASE FR AMES A BL ACK DIAL THROUGH

RETURNS TO ITS ROOTS FOR ITS HERITAGE LINE. THIS 1945

PERFOR ATED, ALLOWING THE SWISS AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT BELOW TO SHINE THROUGH —

SMOOTH DIAL; AND ANOTHER MORE CL ASSICAL LOOKING WITH A SILVER DIAL , FE ATURING

N U M ER A LS . TH E OR I G I NA L , AUTO M AT I C M OVEM ENT —

GUILLOCHÉ DIAL DISPL AYS HOURS, MINUTES AND SEC-

WHICH THE STARS TWINKLE JUST AS THEY DO ON A

RE VISITS THE SPIRIT AND ST YLE CODES OF THE ER A .

A THOROUGHLY MODERN APPROACH TO THE TR ADITIONAL SKELE TON WATCH. LIMITED TO

A REFINED “CLOU DE PARIS” GUILLOCHÉ DECOR ATION, BL ACK PRINTED ROMAN NUMER ALS

CALIBRE L .U.C 96.53-L — OWES ITS E XTR A-THIN 3.30MM

ONDS, AND THE DATE AT 6 O’CLOCK .

CLEAR DARK NIGHT IN CENTR AL JAPAN, ADDING EXTR A

VI I I · TISSOT CHEMIN DES TOURELLES HELVETIC PRIDE

1001 PIECES, THE R ADO TRUE BL A ZE IS A CELEBR ATION OF GLITZ AND GL AMOUR . HOUSED

AND BREGUE T-ST YLE HANDS. BOTH THESE VERSIONS ARE AVAIL ABLE IN STAINLESS STEEL

SILHOUE T TE TO A MICRO-ROTOR IN TUNGSTEN.

IIII · VACHERON CONSTANTIN PATRIMONY COLLECTION

DEPTH AND RICHNESS TO THE DIAL.

THIS WATCH, WHICH IS NAMED AF TER THE STREET IN LE

IN A 40 MM PL ASMA HIGH-TECH CER AMIC CASE, THE WATCH EVOKES A DISCO BALL FEELING

OR IN ROSE GOLD-PL ATED STAINLESS STEEL .

II · ULYSSE NARDIN CLASSICO MANUFACTURE “GR AND

E XCELLENCE PLATINE. PATRIMONY REINTERPRE TS IN A

VI · TUDOR CLAIR DE ROSE. THE CL AIR DE ROSE LINE HAS

LOC LE WHERE THE TISSOT M ANUFACTURE WAS ESTA-

ON THE WRIST. THE DIAL LOOKS AS THOUGH IT WERE COMPLE TELY COVERED IN A L AYER OF

FEU”. THE TIMEPIECE UPHOLDS THE THREE FUNDAMEN-

CONTEMPOR ARY WAY A CL ASSIC VACHERON CONSTAN-

BEEN REIMAGINED FOR 2017. IN A CL ASSIC SPIRIT, IT USES

BLISHED IN 1907, WAS ALREADY A SIGNIFICANT COLLECTION

SILVERY ME TALLIC SLIVERS, GIVING THE APPE AR ANCE OF A GLIT TERY E XPLOSION.

TALS UPON WHICH ULYSSE NARDIN HAS BUILT ITS REPU-

TIN MODEL FROM THE 50S. BEHIND ITS MINIMALISM

TH E B R AN D’S H I STOR I C AESTH E T I C C ODES W I THOUT

FOR TISSOT. THIS HELVETIC PRIDE SPECIAL EDITION IS EVEN

TATION AS A MECHANICAL WATCHMAKER: INDEPENDENT

APPE ARS AN ULTIMATE CONCERN FOR DE TAILS. IF THE

STR AY I NG FRO M THE GENTLE CURVES OF I TS M I DD LE

MORE MEANINGFUL AS IT EMPHASIZES THE PIVOTAL PLACE

MANUFACTURING, R ARE CR AFTSMANSHIP AND AN UNCEA-

CASE IS SLIGHTLY CURVED, THE DIAL , THE APPLIED IN-

CASE AND ITS STR I K ING WINDING CROWN , WH ICH ON

SWITZERLAND HOLDS AT THE VERY CORE OF THE BRAND.

SING QUEST FOR INNOVATION.

DE XES AND THE HANDS FOLLOW THE MOVEMENT.

TH IS MODEL IS SE T WITH A B LUE SPI NEL CABOCHON .

30 WATCH YOUR TIME USA

WATCH YOUR TIME USA 31

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on time As Official Timekeeper to the NBA, the Tour de France, MotoGP, the RBS Six Nations Tournament, the IIHF Ice Hockey World Championships and the International Fencing Federation, Tissot delivers precision and timekeeping technology to world-class sporting events. Driven by its belief in Innovation by Tradition, the brand has also forged its reputation on the irreproachable functionality of its products. They include a line-up of chronographs with a new release this year, the Tissot Chrono XL whose 45-mm diameter (one of the largest in the Tissot collection) lives up to its name. Contemporary Arabic numerals ensure easy read-off while a quartz movement brings the assurance of absolute precision. This Tissot Chrono XL extends to multiple versions. Gray or black PVD treatment lends character to cases that surround dials in dark green, blue or black, combined with the vintage touch of an old-school brown leather strap with top-stitching. Alternatively, Tissot is proposing the sleek style of a mat stainless steel case and bracelet. There is also a special edition for the 2017 Tour de France with a black case and dial. A yellow stripe on the black NATO strap, plus yellow hands and dial markings are a nod to the Tour de France’s coveted yellow jersey. Whichever the model, the Tissot Chrono XL is ready to tackle the sprints and endurance of every day. C.R.

movement used in the men’s 37 mm-wide Saxonia dress watches, but here is easily housed in a 35 mm wide case for ladies. The seconds are marked in a subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock. Vacheron Constantin offers something similar with the Overseas Small, a ladies’ steel watch with in-house Calibre 5300, an automatic that is only 4 mm thick. In the case, the watch is 37 mm by 11.13 mm thickness, a size that is also an emerging preference among men. The movement is made to the strict quality and performance standards of the Poinçon de Genève. The Tudor Clair de Rose is another robust, three-hander for women that also includes a date window. This whole collection is a perfect example of a great day watch for ladies with lots of options. The Clair de Rose is available in six variations and three sizes: 26 mm, 30 mm and 34 mm. It is steel, with several strap/bracelet options.

And it contains a reliable, workhorse movement, the automatic ETA Calibre 2824, or the ETA2671 for larger models. Many more fine examples of three-hand watches were introduced this year at the Swiss watch fairs: the Omega Railmaster, a remake of a 1957 classic with the new CoAxial Master Chronometer Calibre 8806; the Grand Seiko Steel with new automatic Calibre SBGW253; the Nomos Glashütte Club Campus with the ultra-slim Alpha Calibre; and the Tudor Heritage Black Bay with the brand’s new in-house Calibre MT5612, a COSC-certified movement with silicon balance spring. What they all have in common is a state-of-the-art movement under a simple, classic veneer. Significantly, they represent what the Swiss watch industry has to offer the world in the midst of its worst crisis since the quartz era: a value proposition that is unprecedented. Collectors take note.

There is no mystery about a Girard-Perregaux, simply more than two centuries of craftsmanship and a perpetual commitment to perfection. LAUREATO, PINK GOLD CASE, 42 MM

III

IIII

TISSOT CHRONO XL. THE TISSOT CHRONO XL COLLECTION OFFERS MULTIPLE ST YLES. SOME

I · MONSIEUR DE CHANEL PLATINUM WATCH. THIS MON-

III · HERMES CAPE COD TGM MANUFACTURE. BORN FROM

MAY PREFER THE VINTAGE TOUCHES OF OLD SCHOOL LE ATHER BR ACELE TS IN VARIOUS

SIEUR DE CHANEL WITH INSTANT JUMPING HOURS HAND,

THE SINGULAR VISION OF HENRI D’ORIGNY, WHO INVENTED

SHADES OF BROWN WITH ST YLISH STITCHES. E XTR A CHAR ACTER IS ADDED WITH GREY OR

RETROGR ADE MINUTES AND PERPETUAL CALENDAR IS A

IT IN 1991 BY SKETCHING A SQUARE INSIDE A RECTANGLE,

BL ACK PVD COATING ON THE CASE OF CERTAIN WATCHES. THE DIALS VARY DEPENDING ON

LIMITED EDITION OF 100 PIECES. IT FE ATURES A BL ACK

CAPE COD CONSISTENTLY ADAPTS TO THE MOOD OF THE

THE MODEL , FROM DARK GREEN, BLUE OR BL ACK . OTHERS MAY PREFER THE MAT STAINLESS

GR AND FEU ENAMEL DIAL AND A PL ATINUM CASE . THE

TIMES, EXPRESSING CREATIVE ABUNDANCE THROUGH

STEEL BR ACELE T AND CASE FOR A MORE SOPH ISTICATED FEEL . WH ICHE VER ONE YOU

FIRST MONSIEUR WATCH WAS PRESENTED IN 2016 AND IS

FASCINATING INTERPRETATIONS OF THE ORIGINAL DESIGN.

CHOOSE, THE TISSOT CHRONO XL WILL DEFINITELY MAKE A STATEMENT.

FIT TED WITH THE CALIBRE 1, CHANEL’S FIRST MANUFAC-

I I I I · H U B LOT CL ASSIC FUSION BLUE KING GOLD 45MM

TURE MOVEMENT.

M A L E A N D F E M A L E WA R D R O B E S A R E C O N S T R U C T E D

II · BL ANCPAIN VILLERET DAY DATE. BL ANCPAIN’S ABIL-

AROUND SOME ESSENTIAL ITEMS AND MA JOR COLORS.

IT Y TO DE VELOP ITS OWN MOVEMENTS CONFERS UPON

THE CLASSIC FUSION BLUE FALLS INTO BOTH CATEGORIES.

IT COMPLE TE FREEDOM TO CRE ATE . THIS E XPERTISE HAS

FI RSTLY THROUGH THE ELEGANCE OF ITS S I LHOUE T TE

ENABLED THE BR AND TO PRESENT A COMPLICATION IN-

AND THEN BY THE NUANCES THAT IT ASSUMES—BLUE, THE

DICATING THE DAY OF THE WEEK AND THE DATE .

SUPREME COLOR OF MASCULINE AND FEMININE FASHION.

32 WATCH YOUR TIME USA

www.girard-perregaux.com

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REV INTO GEAR Innovative designs and materials make the sport watch category one of the most intriguing of the year.

There is a paradigm shift occurring in the world of sport watches, and it revolves not only around the types of watches being unveiled by top brands, but also around what people are looking for in a sports watch. “There is a general global trend for nostalgia,” says Jean-Claude Biver, head of LVMH Watches (which includes Hublot, Zenith and TAG Heuer). “There is a new generation coming to the market and they are looking not only to connect to the future, but also want to understand history, the roots of the brand, and so we have a serious retro trend.” Additionally, there is an interesting dichotomy between this return to the past and the other main trend we are witnessing: one of the most exciting eras for sport watches in terms of innovative designs and materials. All of which makes the sport watch category one of the most intriguing of the year. VACHERON CONSTANTIN OVERSEAS CHRONOGR APH. THE OVERSE AS IS THE EPITOME OF THE WATCHMAKER’S CASUAL ELEGANCE AND CLE ARLY IDENTIFIED BY ITS SIX-SIDED BE ZEL . TO MARK THE OVERSE A’S T WENTIE TH ANNIVERSARY, VACHERON CONSTANTIN PRESENTED L AST YE AR A COMPLE TELY REDESIGNED COLLECTION, HALLMARKED WITH THE PRESTIGIOUS POINÇON DE GENÈ VE . LE ADING THE LINE-UP IS THE OVERSE AS CHRONOGR APH — CALIBRE 5200 WHOSE NEW CHRONOGR APH CALIBRE IS A MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT THAT WAS FIVE YE ARS IN DE VELOPMENT. T WIN BARRELS ENSURE CONSISTENT TORQUE WHILE A SOF T IRON RING PROTECTS THE MOVEMENT AGAINST MAGNE TIC FIELDS. SCREW-DOWN PUSHERS, CROWN AND CASEBACK GUAR ANTEE WATERRESISTANCE TO A DEP TH OF 150 ME TERS.

RETURN TO CLASSICISM

As is typical in difficult economic and geopolitical times, people reflect on the past. The trend is to turn toward things or styles of yesteryear that give us comfort, but update them in a way that makes them current. This historical-to-modernity concept rings especially true in today’s finest sport watches. In fact, many of the sport watches on the market today are new interpretations of best-selling timepieces from the 1940s and 1950s. Vintage-inspired styles are

E xc e ll e n c e is not an a c t bu t a h abi t — Aristotle ( 3 8 4 — 3 2 2 B C )

among the most coveted watches on the market and we are seeing an almost cultlike audience for watches reinterpreted from the past. In some instances, this means bringing back a vintage logo for the dial, or emulating hands, numerals or dial motifs of yesteryear. In other instances, brands are creating entire collections based on historical models. Montblanc, for instance, turned to its early 1900s roots for inspiration in the design of the all-new TimeWalker series unveiled this year. From the Rally Timer with pocket-watch inspiration and crown at 12 : 00, to the 1/1000 th of a second TimeWalker Chronograph, the brand delved into its core DNA when it built stopwatches for a host of sports. Sometimes the vintage inspiration is interpreted because of an anniversary of a watch. For instance, this year Rolex celebrates the 50 th anniversary of its Sea-Dweller and commemorates the occasion with a special Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller watch that combines design codes of the past but houses a new state-of-the-art movement that holds 14 patents and is resistant to shocks and magnetic fields, among other

properties. The same is true of Omega, which this year honors the 60th anniversary of the Speedmaster. Omega revisited its archives to develop the watches that would celebrate the 1957 launch of Speedmaster, and unveils a series of watches whose exact dial, logo, hands and case reflect the originals, but the pieces house highperformance current movements. Each of these series has garnered great attention from watch lovers who enjoy the classic side of sports. The styling is such that it easily enables non-sports enthusiasts to wear a sport watch because these are classy looks that go from weekends to work and more.

AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK CHRONOGR APH. FIVE YE ARS AF TER ITS L AUNCH, THE ROYAL OAK CHRONOGR APH 41MM HAS BEEN REST YLED. AUDEMARS PIGUE T HAS KEP T THE SAME FUNDAMENTALS, APPLYING SOME MINOR T WE AKS TO THE DIAL TO GIVE IT A SPORTIER LOOK . ALL THE NEW ROYAL OAK CHRONOGR APH VARIANTS FE ATURE T WO-TONE DIALS, WITH THE SUB-DIALS IN CONTR ASTING COLORS.

TRUE SPORTS WATCHES

Of course, there will always be real instruments for real enthusiasts in the active sports world, whether it is dive, aviation, auto or other realms. “When you look at the definition of a sports watch, you find that it must have a certain function connected to that sport,” says Stéphane Belmont, Director of Creations and Marketing for Jaeger-LeCoultre. “A sport watch must be enhanced with a certain attribute, whether it is a split-second timer, higher precision, deeper water resistance or some similar specification that is in line with the sport it is designed for. These watches will never go out of style and have become even more important with today’s active lifestyles.” Watch brands concur, and many are working SPORT WATCH YOUR TIME USA 37

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES

harder to offer more rugged, durable timepieces that weather the elements and go the distance. Thanks to incredible research and development, there is massive improvement in the realms of shock resistance, water resistance, magnetic resistance and more. Of course, the design must be up to snuff, as well. Some even add other features, as with the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control with alarm built in. Easily the most prolific trend in true sport watches is the chronograph, which is equipped with a start, stop and return-tozero function that enables timing of events such as laps run or mountains climbed. Even in this realm, top watch brands have made developments that enable them to change the layout and reading of the chronograph registers that track the timing of

these events. Research has also led to new ways to start, stop and return to zero (with certain brands making the return-to-zero step happen automatically) to make timing of subsequent events faster. Also prevalent this year is a host of sport watches whose designs align with the world of auto-racing. This fast-paced world where every fraction of a second counts yields bold colors, interesting dial treatments, tachymeter bezels and one of the most important aspects of watchmaking today: high-tech materials.

micro machining and research outside of the watch industry, top watch brands are able to offer revolutionary materials that are rugged, durable and ultra light weight. “You have to prepare for the future, you can’t just stand on typical materials like gold or steel or titanium,” says Angelo Bonati, CEO of Panerai for 20 years. “As a watch brand we owe it to our followers to be forward thinking, to always look for something new that will surprise clients and enhance the product. It takes a lot of research.”

HIGH-TECH MATERIALS RULE

In fact, Panerai is one of just a handful of brands that has a cult-like following, called Paneristi. These lovers of the brand are loyal and are constantly anticipating the newest innovations. Panerai didn’t disappoint this year, as the brand unveiled

Easily one of the most innovative portions of today’s watch world is the introduction of all-new high-tech materials in watchmaking for cases, bezels and even straps, as well as for movement components. Thanks to

IIII

38 WATCH YOUR TIME USA

III

I · ROLE X OYSTER PERPETUAL SE A-DWELLER . ROLE X IN-

III · ZENITH EL PRIMERO 36’000 VPH. ZENITH’S LEGENDARY

V · R ADO HYPERCHROME LS CHRONOGR APH TACHYMETER

TRODUCES THE L ATEST GENER ATION OF THE OYSTER PER-

EL PRIMERO ACQUIRES A BLACK AND WHITE LOOK WITH AN IN-

VISIONARY SWISS WATCHMAKER R ADO IS PLE ASED TO

PE TUAL SE A-DWELLER , A LEGEND AMONG PROFESSIONAL

TENSE BLACK CERAMICIZED ALUMINUM CASE, A CONTRASTING

ADD A NEW INNOVATION TO ITS PIONEERING PRODUCT

DIVERS’ WATCHES, CRE ATED FIF T Y YE ARS AGO IN 1967. THE

PALE/DARK DIAL WITH THREE COUNTERS, AND A PERFORATED

LINE-UP. THE R ADO HYPERCHROME LS HARNESSES THE

NEW MODEL FE ATURES A L ARGER , 43-MM CASE AND THE

RUBBER STRAP. THIS EL PRIMERO 36,000 VPH CHRONOGRAPH

POWER OF LIGHT AND MOBILE TECHNOLOGY, OFFERING

NEW 3235 CALIBRE WITH 14 PATENTS.

FROM ZENITH FIRST APPEARED IN 1969, BECOMING AN ICONIC

AN UNPRECEDENTED WAY TO INTER ACT WITH THE TIME-

II · PATEK PHILIPPE WORLD TIME CHRONOGR APH REFER-

EXAMPLE OF HIGH-PRECISION MECHANICS.

KEEPER ON YOUR WRIST.

ENCE 5930. REFERENCE 5930 COMBINES T WO OF PATEK

I I I I · ALPI N A SE ASTRONG HOROLOGICAL SMART WATCH

VI · TAG HEUER CARRER A HEUER-01 ROSE GOLD. PRE-

PHILIPPE’S SPECIALITIES: THE CHRONOGR APH AND WORLD

ALPINA HAS BEEN A REFERENCE WITH ITS DIVING WATCH

SENTED FOR THE FIRST TIME T WO YE ARS AGO, THE CAR-

TIME . TODAY, THE GENE VA-BASED WATCHMAKER OFFERS

COLLECTION SINCE THE 1960S WHEN THE SE ASTRONG “10”

RER A HEUER-01 IS “THE” SIGNATURE CHRONO MODEL

ONE OF THE BIGGEST SELECTIONS OF CHRONOGR APHS

WAS ALRE ADY CAPABLE OF RE ACHING 200M/660 F T. THIS

FROM THE TAG HEUER MANUFACTURE . IT WAS A NATUR AL

AND WATCHES WITH WORLD TIME, WHICH ARE AMONG THE

YE AR ALPINA ACHIE VES NEW LE VELS WITH ITS BR AND NEW

STEP FOR TAG HEUER TO RELE ASE THE BR AND’S BEST-

MOST SOUGHT-AF TER IN THEIR CATEGORY.

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time travel Exploring new territory is a mainstay of the Louis Vuitton brand — in this case new technical horizons as the company makes a bold incursion into smartwatches, though with the familiar “baggage” of the design codes for which its timepieces are renowned. This new Tambour Horizon thus shares the same case as the Tambour Moon, so-named for the crescent shape of its inward curving case. It also reprises the concept of interchangeable straps, thanks to the exclusive and patented system that releases the strap instantly, without tools. For the technology inside the watch, Louis Vuitton has teamed up with Google for the operating system and with Qualcomm for the high-performance processor. The Tambour Horizon provides all the potential one would expect of a smartwatch. But there is more to the Tambour Horizon than these smartwatch staples, as the Parisian firm explains: “Louis Vuitton has always had strong ties with the world of travel and the Tambour Horizon smartwatch is no exception, having been fitted with exclusive dedicated functions.” The first of these functions, My Flight, keeps travelers informed on their flight times, gate information, reported delays, etc. The second exclusive function, City Guide, extends the services of the Louis Vuitton print guides and the corresponding apps for tablet and smartphone to the smartwatch, featuring a curated selection of addresses, hot spots and landmarks in seven of the most visited cities in the world, with the benefit of an intelligent geolocation function. The all-important second time zone is shown on the 24-hour display around the rim, with the name of the chosen city and the corresponding time. Customization is achieved at a flick of the screen which adopts any of the brand’s exclusive themes: Monogram, Damier or colored stripes. Bon voyage! C.R.

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several watches with highly technical materials that run the gamut from carbon nanotubes to proprietary alloys developed in tandem with another industry. Its LAB-ID Luminor 1950 Carbotech watch, for instance, has a watch case made of a composite material based on carbon fiber fused with polyether ether ketone (PEEK) polymer that makes it stronger and more durable than most other case materials. Additionally, the dial is coated with carbon nanotubes that are developed to absorb light and reduce reflections. Some say this makes the black color the darkest that can be achieved on a watch dial. So advanced is the timepiece that Panerai is offering it with a 50-year warranty. Additionally, these new materials and new engineering techniques influence

the design and style of this realm of sport watches. Micro machining of these materials is critical and often these are big, bold innovative timepieces — the flip side of retro. For instance, the new Hublot MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis with visible doublerotation tourbillon is an incredible feat of watchmaking technology. The unusually shaped case commands attention even in a crowded room. “The designs of these innovative watches go against the trend for nostalgia and for classic timepieces,” comments Jean-Claude Biver. “There are certain brands whose message is innovation. Following that trend would be contrary to their very being. If there is no innovation, then there is no brand. The good news is there are customers who are eager for both types of watch.”

the serpent ’s charm GEM SE T TING ON A BVLGARI SERPENTI INCANTATI

III

IIII

LOUIS VUITTON TAMBOUR HORIZON. AT JUST 42MM, THE CASE OF THIS TAMBOUR HORIZON

I · PANER AI LAB-ID™ LUMINOR 1950 CARBOTECH 3 DAYS

III · BAUME & MERCIER CLIFTON CLUB SHELBY COBRA. IN A

I S E XCEP T I ONA LLY C O M PACT FOR A C ON NECTED WATCH , THAN KS TO QUA LC O M M®

— 49MM. BY OP TIMIZING THE INFINITE POSSIBILITIES OF

MILESTONE CELEBRATION OF THE SHELBY COBRA DAYTONA

SNAPDR AGON™ WE AR 2100 PL ATFORM. A PERFECT CIRCLE, IT FE ATURES THE DISTINCTIVE

CARBON , THIS NE W TI MEPIECE FE ATURES A HIGH-PER-

COUPE, BAUME & MERCIER IS HONORED TO PRESENT A RARE

CONCAVE BEZEL OF THE SWISS MANUFACTURE’S TAMBOUR MOON DESIGN, AND IS AVAILABLE IN

FORMANCE CASE, A NEW DEEP BL ACK DIAL , AND A MOVE-

CHRONOGR APH DESTINED TO BECOME A COLLECTIBLE .

GRAPHITE, MONOGRAM OR BLACK. WEARERS CAN CHOOSE BETWEEN 60 READILY DETACHABLE

MENT WITH A 50-YE AR WARR ANT Y THAT REQUIRES NO LU-

ONLY 196 PIECES WILL EVER BE PRODUCED, EACH NUMBE-

STR APS — 30 CREATED FOR MEN, 30 FOR WOMEN — ALLOWING THE TAMBOUR HORIZON TO

BRICATION.

RED TO PROVE ITS PLACE IN THIS EXCLUSIVE COLLECTION.

ADAPT TO ANY OCCASION.

II · MONTBLANC TIMEWALKER RALLY TIMER COUNTER . THE

I I I I · ULYSSE NARDIN DIVER CHRONOGR APH ARTEMIS

FAMOUS R ALLY TIMER STOPWATCH PRODUCED BY MINERVA

WITH THIS MODEL , THE SWISS WATCHMAKER PAYS TRI-

FOR RECORDING ROAD RACING IS THE INSPIRATION BEHIND

BUTE TO THE SEAFARING SKILL OF ARTEMIS R ACING. WITH

THIS NEW MONTBLANC MODEL. THIS INNOVATIVE TIMEPIECE

THE RELIABLE PRECISION OF THE DIVER COLLECTION, THIS

OFFERS DIFFERENT WAYS TO APPRECIATE THE TIME, WITH

MARINE-LOVER’S TIMEPIECE PROVES ITSELF ON L AND OR

THE POSSIBILIT Y OF TR ANSFORMING THE WRIST WATCH

AT SEA. ON L AND, ITS ULTR AMARINE COLORING REVEALS

INTO A POCKET WATCH OR A DASHBOARD CLOCK.

ITS AQUATIC DNA.

40 WATCH YOUR TIME USA

We instinctively associate certain brands with an animal counterpart. Bulgari is one. Its iconic serpent, introduced in the 1940s, has accompanied the jeweler’s rise to fame, and mesmerized when worn by Elizabeth Taylor as Cleopatra. “Serpenti”, meaning “serpents” or “snakes” in Italian, immediately conjures up some of Bulgari most innovative creations. It has, after all, been part of the coveted jeweler’s vocabulary for many decades, and has grown into a signature style for the Rome-based brand. As a symbol, the snake can be traced back to classical antiquity. For Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of love, it represented the power of seduction. For Demeter, who presided over the fertility of the earth in the Roman pantheon, the snake embodied life. Staying with these ancient civi-

lizations, the rod of Asclepius, god of medicine for the Greeks who carried a serpent-entwined staff, was and remains a symbol of the medical profession. More serpents accompanied Isis, the legendary queen of Ancient Egypt from whom Cleopatra claimed to descend. In fact it was Cleopatra who set the seal on this symbiosis between Bulgari and the snake; not in the sands of Egypt but in Hollywood studios. While filming Cleopatra in Rome in 1962, Elizabeth Taylor, an actress renowned for her love affair with exceptional jewels, was photographed for posterity wearing a Serpenti coiled around her arm. Since then, these jewel-watches have become coveted timepieces and confirmation of the expertise of a brand that won the favors of one of cinema’s legends. Richard Burton, her on-screen partner and future husband twice over, quipped that “the only word Liz knows in Italian is Bulgari!”. Not that “Liz” was alone in succumbing to the Serpent’s charm. As Bulgari reminds us, “the Serpenti has

never ceased to capture the heart of the legendary stars of their day, entwining itself around the arm or throat of such beauties as Scarlett Johansson, Ziyi Zhang, Dita Von Teese, Kate Winslet, Julianne Moore and Jennifer Garner.”

Bulgari produced its first Serpenti watches in the late 1940s, stylizing the snake’s body as a mesh of gold links that coil around the wrist as far as the reptile’s head, which becomes the head of the watch. First square or rectangular in shape, it would later embrace a multitude of forms: pear, cushion, round or octagonal. Another of the Serpenti’s distinctive features from the very beginning is the spiral Tubogas bracelet, a technique that borrows from flexible gas pipes. Two long, flat strips of metal, at least five meters in length for a single turn of the wrist, are wrapped around a core, interlocking so closely that no soldering is required. The core is then removed to

leave a perfect coil. The finished result, a supple, lithe bracelet, is mirror-polished to a high sheen. Throughout the decades, Bulgari has used its imagination and expertise to transform this handcrafted tube into a myriad interpretations, from lavish, gem-encrusted versions to extreme sobriety, and always with the same elegance and class. In 2016, the iconic serpent gave rise to more new interpretations in high jewelry as well as haute horlogerie, in ceramic and with five-coil Tubogas bracelets. These new “fields of expression”, to quote the brand, include the Serpenti Incantati range in which the signature snake wraps not around the arm but the watch itself; the Serpenti Spiga, a “rock n’ roll” blend of metal and ceramic, and the bright and beautiful Serpenti Jewelry. This year’s Serpenti plays on the snake’s ability to shed its skin, and replaces the Tubogas bracelet with interchangeable double-wrap leather straps in a rainbow of 22 colors — a more casual way to wear this legendary watch. Eric Dumatin

BVLGARI SERPENTI INCANTATI SKELETON TOURBILLON. THE SER-

BVLGARI SERPENTI. ALWAYS FAMILIAR , NE VER PREDICTABLE, THE

BVLGARI SERPENTI TUBOGAS. L ATELY, SERPENTI TUBOGAS AP-

PENT RE TURNS TO BVLGARI, NO LONGER WR APPED AROUND THE

SERPENTI IS THE WATCH OF MANY FACES. THIS ICONIC L ADIES’

PE AR ED I N TH ES E D I SC R EE T VERS I ONS W I TH A S I NG LE- C O I L

WRIST BUT FOR THE FIRST TIME COILED AROUND THE DIAL, WHERE

TIMEPIECE RE TURNS IN YE T ANOTHER GUISE AND PROLONGS ITS

BR ACELE T AND AN AME THYST-LIKE PURPLE DIAL . ONE FE ATURES

IT UNFURLS ITS SEDUCTIVE FORMS AMONG A MYRIAD DIAMONDS,

27- M M GOLD CASE WITH A STR AP IN K ARUNG SNAKESK IN. THE

THE GLE AM OF POLISHED STEEL , WHICH ENHANCES THE ARCHI-

TESTI MONY TO THE ITALIAN FIR M ’S E XCEP TIONAL MASTERY OF

DOUBLE-WR AP STR AP IN BL ACK TO MATCH THE DIAL IS E ASI LY

TECTUR AL AND TECHNICAL NATURE OF THE ARTICUL ATED BR ACE-

JE WELRY. THIS CAP TIVATING CRE ATURE WATCHES OVER A FUL-

SWAPPED BY ONE OF THE FOUR OTHER COLOURS PROPOSED,

LE T; WH I LE THE OTHER PL AYS ON SH I M M ER ING CHROM E- AND

LY SKELE TONIZED MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT WITH TOURBILLON.

THANKS TO A UNIQUELY PR ACTICAL AT TACHMENT.

GOLD-TONED REFLECTIONS.

MULTIPLE INTERPRETATIONS

FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME USA 41

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avant- garde

which TAG Heuer resuscitated this year after some 50,000 fans took part in the Autavia Cup, an online vote to pick one of 16 historic Autavias for reissue. The winner: the 2446 MK3, launched in 1966 and known as the “Rindt” Autavia in honor of Austrian Formula 1 world champion Jochen Rindt. CONNECTED TO THE FUTURE

In a similar vein, TAG Heuer is rolling out the red carpet for the Monaco, with a new limited edition that joins the famed Gulf Series this fall (the last release, driven by Calibre 12, dates back to 2009). As always, this new iteration nods firmly in the direction of Steve McQueen — Gulf Oil sponsored the Porsche 917 that McQueen drove in the 1971 movie Le Mans, and its blue and orange colors appear in the stripes across the dial. While nostalgia has plenty of appeal, cutting-edge tech-

From an innovative connected watch to vintage designs from the world of sport, TAG Heuer has won an army of admirers with its particular brand of watchmaking, where avant-garde joins tradition. For many watch fans these past years, it’s been a case of “out with the new, in with the old” as more and more buyers set off in search of styles that date from the golden age of watchmaking, when back to the drawing board meant exactly that, dimensions were calculated with a slide rule, and parts were made with hydraulic machine tools and jig borers. In other words, the watches our grandfathers wore; ones that hark back to a day when the sublime was still the work of the human mind, not digitally conceived. Swiss brands were quick to realize that their archives were filled with unexploited treasures. After all, even as we marvel at the electronic performance of smart devices, old-school mechanical watches can still get a collector’s heart pounding. One who knows all

about a watch’s emotional pull is Jean-Claude Biver, head of LVMH’s watch division and ipso facto CEO of TAG Heuer. Established 1860, TAG Heuer is a name that ranks high in the watchmaking pantheon, with contributions that have helped change the face of timekeeping through technical innovation and irresistible design. The success enjoyed by last year’s limited-edition Monza in titanium, a celebration of its 40th anniversary, gives some idea of the excitement that has grown up around these vintage styles. As it turned out, the Monza was just for starters. TAG Heuer had another ace up its sleeve in the form of the Autavia chronograph, manufactured between 1962 and 1986. Designed for racing drivers, this elegant and well-constructed chrono with rotating bezel soon established itself as a serious contender on the market, not to say a “must” for Formula 1 drivers of the 1960s and 70s such as Jochen Rindt, Clay Regazzoni, Mario Andretti and Gilles Villeneuve. A legend was born

nology (the Technologies d’Avant-Garde that put the TAG into TAG Heuer) is no less of a draw. This hasn’t escaped the firm, which was one of the first Swiss watchmakers to launch a smartwatch. Its latest tour de force is the TAG Heuer Connected Modular 45; the first smartwatch that qualifies for the Swiss-Made label, thanks to specially developed production lines at TAG Heuer’s facilities in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Yet another connected device in an already overserviced market? Not so sure. TAG Heuer has succeeded in combining the best of both worlds, mechanical and electronic, in a watch that lives up to its name as it offers no fewer than 4,000 possible combinations, including materials, colors, lugs, strap and buckle… even the heart of the watch with a choice of a mechanical module and a connected module complete with an Intel processor and Google’s Android OS. Never short on words, Jean-Claude Biver is describing it as “a watch that connects to the future, but also connects to eternity.” Christophe Roulet

TAG HEUER MONACO GULF 2017. THE STE VE MCQUEEN-LE MANS

TAG HEUER AUTAVIA. IN MARCH, TAG HEUER UNVEILED THE RESULT

TAG HEUER CONNECTED MODULAR 45. WITH THIS SMART WATCH

LEGACY HAS BEEN REVISITED OCCASIONALLY BY TAG HEUER , AND

OF AN ONLINE VOTE TO DECIDE WHICH OF THE NUMEROUS AUTA-

TAG HEUER IS THE FIRST BR AND TO OFFER SUCH A WE ALTH OF

NEVER MORE SYMBOLICALLY THAN IN THE MONACO GULF EDITIONS,

VIA — THE FIRST E VER WR IST CHRONO WITH ROTATING BE ZEL ,

CUSTOMIZABLE OPTIONS, R ANGING FROM STR APS TO DIALS, LUGS,

WITH THE OR ANGE AND BLUE PAR ALLEL STRIPES. ENCASED IN ITS

BUCKLES AND BEZELS, THAT MORE THAN 4,000 UNIQUE TIMEPIECES

UNMISTAK ABLE ANGUL AR OFF-SQUARE CASE, THE GULF R ACING

W I N N ER I S… TH E “ R I N DT ”, NA M ED AF TER TH E AUSTR I AN 1960S

CAN BE MADE FROM THIS INITIAL OFFERING. THE MODEL IS ALSO

2017 EDITION REMAINS TRUE TO THE SPIRIT OF THE ORIGINAL .

FORMUL A 1 CHAMPION JOCHEN RINDT.

SOLD WITH BOTH AN ELECTRONIC SMART WATCH HEAD AND A TR ADITIONAL MECHANICAL WATCH HEAD — INTERCHANGEABLE AT WILL.

42 WATCH YOUR TIME USA FOCUS

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES

in full

It was back in 1967 that golf legend Arnold Palmer began a partnership with Rolex, joined by Jack Nicklaus and Gary Player. The shared values of excellence, sportsmanship, tradition and precision brought Rolex together with Palmer, Nicklaus and Player, who became known as The Big Three. With that relationship intact, it wasn’t long before other leading golf legends joined the Rolex family. Since then, Rolex continued to expand its reach, becoming the Official Timekeeper, or a key Partner, of the world’s most prestigious tournaments. Time and again, the brand closed sponsorships and partnerships — carefully building its rela-

Status and Equipment Standards, and more. As Official Timekeeper to certain championships, Rolex keeps time for guests and players via its iconic Rolex Green clocks and boards around the courses. The brand also backs multigenerations of the best players in the sport, from amateurs to professionals, with many top brand ambassadors (Testimonees) wearing Rolex watches in both their personal and professional lives. In fact, the brand’s list of Testimonees reads like a veritable “Who’s Who” in golf. Major winners include Tiger Woods, Phil Mickelson, Tom Watson, Adam Scott, Jason Day, Jordan Spieth, Lydia Ko, Alexis Thompson, Annika Sorenstam, Anna Nordqvist and many more. A commitment to performance and excellence Some of these players wear Rolex watches during play, and others don their watch when they step off the course to accept their winning titles, jackets, cups or other trophies. Famed Phil Mickelson, for instance, has been playing in Cellini watches for many years, but he also wears a host of different Rolex Oyster Perpetuals off the course. Golf greats Jack Nicklaus and Gary Player wear Rolex Day-

Date watches. Jordan Spieth, one of today’s new guard of leading players, wears a Rolex Explorer II, while Rickie Fowler prefers a platinum Cosmograph Daytona. A few of the women ambassadors, including Lydia Ko and Annika Sörenstam wear Rolex Datejust watches. In addition to an impressive roster of professionals, Rolex’s line-up of tournament involvements is expansive. The leading Swiss watch brand is the Title Sponsor of the Rolex Women’s World Golf Rankings, and is a partner of the three Majors in men’s golf as an International Partner of the Masters Tournament at Augusta National Golf Club and a Global Partner of both the U.S. Open and The Open in the United Kingdom. Rolex supports all five Majors in women’s golf, as well as the USGA, the LPGA and more. Beyond the Majors, the brand also supports worldwide Team Competitions such as The Ryder Cup and the Presidents Cup, among others, and World Class Events in the United States, Mexico, China, Europe, the Middle East and South Africa. This year, too, to celebrate its jubilee in this highly respected sport, Rolex moves ahead with a new initiative on the European Tour: The Rolex

THE MASTERS , 16 TH HOLE (2016). THE M ASTERS TOURNAM ENT,

ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL DATEJUST 41 WHITE ROLESOR. ROLEX

ROLE X OYSTER PERPETUAL COSMOGR APH DAY TONA. ROLE X IS

ROLEX TESTIMONEE THORBJORN OLESEN AT THE 2016 DP WORLD

ALSO KNOWN AS THE M ASTERS OR THE US M ASTERS, IS ONE

IS INTRODUCING THE 904L STEEL VERSION OF ITS NEW-GENER A-

INTRODUCING THREE NEW VERSIONS OF ITS OYSTER PERPE TU-

TOUR CHAMPIONSHIP. TH O R B JO R N ( WH I C H TR A N S L ATES TO

OF THE FOUR MA JOR CHAMPIONSHIPS IN PROFESSIONAL GOLF.

TION CLASSIC OYSTER PERPETUAL DATEJUST 41 MODEL, TOGETHER

AL COSMOGR APH DAY TONA IN 18K YELLOW, WHITE OR E VEROSE

THUNDER BE AR) SIGNALED TO THE GOLFING WOR LD HIS OUT-

SCHEDULED FOR THE FIRST FULL WEEK OF APRIL , THE MASTERS

WITH A WHITE ROLESOR VERSION (A COMBINATION OF 904L STEEL

GOLD. THESE VERSIONS ARE FIT TED ON THE INNOVATIVE OYS-

STANDING TALENT WHEN AS AN 18 YE AR-OLD, HE FINISHED 4 th IN

IS THE FIRST MA JOR OF THE YE AR , AND UNLIKE THE OTHERS, IT IS

AND 18K WHITE GOLD) FEATURING AN 18K WHITE GOLD FLUTED BEZ-

TERFLE X BR ACELE T IN EL ASTOMER REINFORCED WITH A ME TAL

THE SCANDINAVIAN MASTERS L ATE IN THE SUMMER OF 2008 WHILE

HELD AT THE SAME LOCATION, AUGUSTA NATIONAL GOLF CLUB, A

EL. THE NEW DATEJUST 41 WATCHES ARE EQUIPPED WITH A REDE-

BL ADE, AND ARE EQUIPPED WITH A MONOBLOC CER ACHROM BEZ-

BEING A MEMBER OF THE NORDIC MINI TOUR . HE IS CURRENTLY

PRIVATE COURSE IN THE SOUTHE ASTERN UNITED STATES, IN CIT Y

SIGNED 41 MM CASE AND THE NEW ROLEX CALIBRE 3235, AT THE

EL , PATENTED BY ROLEX, IN BL ACK CER AMIC. THIS L ATEST EVOLU-

AMONG THE TOP 100 PL AYERS LISTED BY THE OFFICIAL WORLD

OF AUGUSTA , GEORGIA .

FOREFRONT OF WATCHMAKING TECHNOLOGY WITH ITS 14 PATENTS.

TION IS A BLEND OF HIGH TECHNOLOGY AND SLEEK AESTHE TICS.

GOLF R ANKING.

“THE BIG THREE” ON BOARD

44 WATCH YOUR TIME USA FOCUS

swing

tionship to golf and becoming the premiere name behind such events as The Open, U.S Open, USGA, LGPA, The Ryder Cup and more. By the millennium, Rolex had established nearly a dozen key relationship roles with tournaments and Cups, and had a host of top winners, such as Phil Mickelson and Annika Sorenstam, among its ranks. Within the first 15 years of this century, the brand more than doubled that involvement — forging ahead into new golf territories. Rolex expanded its support of young athletes and up-and-coming new-guard players, as well as strengthening its reach around the world. In fact, today Rolex supports golf in five continents via tournaments, organizations, tours and more. Additionally, just as the marque sets certain benchmark standards in the watch industry, Rolex has become an unofficial guardian of the game of golf globally. The Swiss watchmaker works with such organizations and governing bodies as The R&A and the USGA to ensure the standards, history and etiquette of the game are set and met. Together Rolex and these organizations have a commitment to developing / upholding the Rules of Golf, Rules of Amateur

Over the past five decades, this brand — whose reputation is built on precision and a quest for excellence — has aligned itself with some of the greatest golfers of all time, as well as with the most elite tournaments globally. From men’s golf to women’s golf, from amateurs to professionals, and from seniors to juniors, Rolex supports golf in one of the most enduring sports relationships in history — and it all started with a handshake.

Legendary Swiss watch brand Rolex is known for many things, including creating the world’s first water-resistant watch, the Oyster, just about 90 years ago, and being deeply involved in the world of auto-sports with its beloved Daytona. That foray into pioneering technology and high-precision sport watches has continually been an integral part of Rolex’s DNA. The brand has equipped explorers who summited Mt. Everest, those on arctic expeditions, and even deep underwater explorations. Almost synonymous with sports, the renowned Swiss watch brand supports, in addition to auto racing, the equestrian, tennis, and golf worlds. In fact, its involvement in, and commitment to, golf has been so long-standing and all-encompassing that this year Rolex celebrates the 50 th anniversary of its strong supporting role in the incredible world of golf.

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES

Series. In an exciting alliance, the European Tour and Rolex, which has been a partner and the Official Timekeeper of the Tour for 10 years, join forces to enhance the spirit and experience of golf. The 2017 Rolex Series features a minimum of eight tournaments in eight different iconic golf locations. The plan is to add more tournaments in future seasons. In short, Rolex’s commitment to the grand sport of golf — which requires skill, endurance, precision and keen mental acuity — underscores its in-house commitment in watchmaking to precision, perfection, performance and excellence. The brand has long been a pioneer in world expeditions, exploration and sports where excellence counts, and continues to be a leader in raising the standards of high technology, top materials and superior performance in timepieces. Roberta Naas FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME USA 45

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES

–o–––- carol besler

ROLE REVERSAL How women’s watches became the new showpieces of mechanical watchmaking.

ROLE X OYSTER PERPETUAL YACHTMASTER 40. ROLE X IS INTRODUCING A GEM-SE T VERSION OF THE OYSTER PERPE TUAL YACHT-MASTER 40, ITS EMBLEMATIC NAUTICAL WATCH. IN 18K E VEROSE GOLD WITH A BL ACK GLOSS FINISH DIAL , IT FE ATURES A BIDIRECTIONAL ROTATABLE BE ZEL ADORNED WITH MULTICOLOR SAPPHIRES, GREEN TSAVORITES, AND A TRIANGUL AR DIAMOND AT 12 O’CLOCK . WATERPROOF, PRECISE AND RELIABLE, THE YACHT-MASTER 40 EMBODIES THE PRIVILEGED TIES BE T WEEN ROLE X AND THE WORLD OF SAILING THAT STRE TCH BACK TO THE 1950S. THIS VERSION IS EQUIPPED WITH THE INNOVATIVE, EL ASTOMER OYSTERFLE X BR ACELE T DE VELOPED AND PATENTED BY ROLE X.

A remarkable role reversal is happening in the world of luxury timepieces, and it’s all for the benefit of women. First, let’s look at the most important trend in men’s watches today: simplicity. As the Swiss watch industry enters its third year of decline, we are no longer seeing the big showpieces with high complications, decorative dials and avant-garde designs of the boom years of 2010-2015. The rule now is classic, minimalist styles and basic functions. On the other hand, women’s watches are trending along the lines of… big showpieces, with high complications, decorative dials and avant-garde designs. How did this happen? While some ladies’ collections have followed men’s watches down the street of simplicity, there is also something of a boom in magnum-opus watches for women. Even pared-down collections contain movements that in some cases represent a significant upgrade over previous models. There are two reasons for this. One is that we are seeing the fruits of a renaissance that began a few years ago with the rise of watchmaking’s decorative arts. Ladies’ watches have been acknowledged as the ideal canvas for the metiers of watchmaking, including gemsetting, enameling and engraving. Gemsetting in particular has reached a level of craftsmanship that you rarely see outside the finest pieces of high jewelry. So despite the downturn, new high-metiers projects, years in development, are now coming

Wo m e n h ave always b e e n t h e s t ro ng o ne s of t h e worl d — Coco Chanel ( 1 8 8 3 — 1 9 7 1 )

to fruition. The watch industry concurrently came to the realization that women are interested in mechanical movements. Stateof-the-art calibers and high complications, once reserved for men’s watches, are now routinely used in watches for women. STARS OF SWISS WATCHES

This combination of embellishment and mechanics made ladies’ watches the stars of the Swiss watch fairs this year. The spectacle began in January with the Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Papillon Automate. An automaton module added to the automatic movement drives the wings of a butterfly and makes them flutter. In addition to mother-of-pearl marquetry and enameling in three separate techniques — champlevé, plique-à-jour and paillonné —, the watch is a virtuoso display of gemsetting, with round- and pear-shaped diamonds as well as sapphires in blue, mauve and violet shades. Sometimes it takes imagination rather than a complication to animate a dial, and the Cartier Panthère Joueuse proves that even a time-only caliber can be harnessed to great effect. Cartier’s manufacture Calibre 9918 MC is used to animate the Maison’s

mascot, the panther, whose paw is extended as if to play with a diamond ball. The paw also functions as the minutes hand, while the ball points to the hours. The panther is rendered with 254 brilliant-cut diamonds, emerald eyes and lacquer spots. The new Chanel J12 Mademoiselle is another playful use of a time-only caliber. The hands of the watch are replaced by the arms of Coco Chanel, who is depicted on the dial. They extend to read the hours and minutes in what might be termed the couture version of the iconic Mickey Mouse watch. Complications, when they are used in a ladies’ watch, can be embellished in ways that wouldn’t be appropriate for a men’s watch, and that’s part of what makes these watches special. There were, for example, two “garden variety” tourbillons introduced this year, one by Jaeger-LeCoultre and the other by Graff. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Hybris Artistica Mystérieuse flying tourbillon Calibre 941 is surrounded by 18k white gold ivy leaves that seem to coil around the case and embrace the escapement. Each leaf is created in 18k gold and applied individually to the case, then set with diamonds. Instead of using hands to tell time, the tourbillon carriage rotates not only on its axis but also around the perimeter of the dial to roughly indicate hours. Minutes are tracked by a ruby set into a revolving flange around the inner circumference of the dial. The Graff Master Graff Floral Tourbillon likewise

LONGINES RECORD CHRONOMETER. THIS YE AR , LONGINES IS CELEBR ATING ITS 185 th ANNIVERSARY, AND IS TAKING THE OPPORTUNIT Y TO PRESENT ITS NEW COLLECTION, BY THE NAME OF RECORD. IN THE SAINT-IMIER COMPANY’S PUREST WATCHMAKING TR ADITION, THESE AUTOMATIC MODELS COMBINE CL ASSIC ELEGANCE AND E XCELLENCE . AND THERE IS NO SHORTAGE OF ARGUMENTS FOR THESE TIMEPIECES, WHOSE MOVEMENT INCLUDES A SINGLE-CRYSTAL SILICON BAL ANCE SPRING WITH UNIQUE PROPERTIES. A FIRST FOR LONGINES, IT IS CERTIFIED AS A CHRONOME TER BY THE SWISS OFFICIAL CHRONOME TER TESTING INSTITUTE (COSC).

LADIES WATCH YOUR TIME USA 47

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES

BVL 263, is the same used in the 41 mm wide Bulgari Tourbillon for men; fortunately it has been engineered small enough for the 38 mm Lucea case. EVEN THE CHRONOGRAPH

The moon phase function has also been reimagined for ladies’ watches, where it escapes its traditional role as a side show in men’s perpetual calendars. Blancpain’s Villeret Date Moonphase, subtly feminizes the display, adding eyelashes and a beauty spot. This is meant to pay tribute to the coquettish side of women: depending on their placement, fake beauty spots were used by ladies of the French Court to convey messages to their suitors. At 29.2 mm wide, the watch is sized for ladies, with a next-generation caliber made by Blancpain

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48 WATCH YOUR TIME USA

specifically for smaller cases. The Calibre 913QL is an evolution of the women’s Calibre 953, a 21 mm diameter movement that has been a staple of ladies’ watches at Blancpain. The new caliber also has a highperformance silicium balance spring, which is lighter and thus more shock-resistant, as well as impervious to magnetic fields and generally more stable. The same is true for A. Lange & Söhne’s Little Lange 1 Moon Phase. It also contains a new movement, the manual-wound Calibre L121.2, made to be the perfect size for a ladies watch. The cased watch is 36.8 mm wide, and 9.5 mm thick, compared to the Lange 1 men’s moon phase, which is 38.5 mm wide and 10.2 mm thick. Even the mighty, power-hungry chronograph has been lately tailored for women. This year Chopard introduced a chrono-

Tropical chic boutique hotel

III

I · VACHERON CONSTANTIN MÉTIERS D’ART COPERNICUS CE-

III · VAN CLEEF & ARPELS LADY ARPELS PAPILLON AUTOMATE.

V · BVLGARI LUCEA TOURBILLON. THE LUCE A WATCH AL-

LESTIAL SPHERES. THIS NEW MÉTIERS D’ART COLLECTION

THIS YEAR, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS BROUGHT ITS ENCHANTED

WAYS ADDS A TOUCH OF GL AMOUR . THIS YE AR , THE COL-

DEPICTS THE ASTRONOMICAL WORLD ACCORDING TO NICO-

NATURE THEME TO LIFE IN A NEW FORM WITH THE LADY AR-

LECTION IS E XPANDING WITH A TOURBILLON ESCAPEMENT

L AUS COPERNICUS. WITH ITS DISPL AY AND SPECTACUL AR

PELS™ PAPILLON AUTOMATE WATCH. FEATURING A PARTICU-

VERSION FE ATURING A DIAL IN HARD STONE WITH JEWELED

DECORATION, IT PAYS TRIBUTE TO ONE OF THE GREATEST DIS-

LARLY SOPHISTICATED AUTOMATON MODULE, IT FEATURES A

HOUR- M AR KERS . THE DELICATE CASE HAS A D IAMOND -

COVERIES IN THE HISTORY OF HUMANITY: HELIOCENTRISM.

BUTTERFLY WHOSE WINGS FLUTTER AT RANDOM INTERVALS,

STUDDED BE ZEL AND STR AP AT TACHMENTS.

II · CHANEL PREMIÈRE CAMÉLIA SKELETON WATCH. THIS

GOVERNED BY THE WEARER’S MOVEMENTS.

VI · JAEGER-LECOULTRE RENDEZ-VOUS SONATINA LARGE

PREM IÈRE CAM ÉLIA S KELE TON IS SHOWN HERE WITH A

IIII · RICHARD MILLE RM07-02 PINK LADY SAPPHIRE. THIS

FOR A DISCREET REMINDER OF AN APPROACHING RENDE Z-

WHITE GOLD CASE SET WITH 92 BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS.

WATCH BR INGS A FEM IN INE APPROACH TO TECHN IQUE ,

VOUS, WATCHMAKERS AT JAEGER-LECOULTRE DESIGNED

THE HANDS ARE STUDDED WITH 17 BR I LLIANT- CUT D IA-

C LOA K I N G I T I N TH E P I N K TO N ES O F TH E R EN OW N ED

THE RENDE Z-VOUS SONATINA L ARGE , OFFER ING A NE W

MONDS AND THE CROWN IS EMBELLISHED WITH 24 BRIL-

DR I N K . THE CASE OF TH IS R M 07- 02 IS CR AF TED FROM

FUNCTION. IT SOUNDS THE TIME OF THE MEE TING THANKS

LIANT- CUT DIAMONDS. THE CALIBRE 2 MOVEM ENT WITH

SECTIONS OF PINK SAPPHIRE, AN EXTREMELY HARD STONE

TO THE SMALL MYSTERIOUS STAR , WHICH CAN BE MOVED

107 COMPONENTS OFFERS A POWER RESERVE OF 48 HOURS.

HENCE WHY IT TAKES ALMOST FORT Y DAYS TO MACHINE .

AROUND THE DIAL .

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Photo : L.Di Orio

places the tourbillon carriage in a garden setting, surrounded by enameled flowers that rotate on their own axis. Each flower is made of hand-painted enamel over gold and applied individually in a process that takes 50 hours for each dial. The case is 38 mm wide and contains an automatic tourbillon caliber made by Swiss boutique movement maker Concepto. For women who like their tourbillons in a more subdued, yet colorful setting, the Bulgari Lucea Tourbillon uses a mineral dial backdrop — heart of ruby for the white gold version and jade for the pink gold — framed by two carats of diamonds. (There seems to be a two-carat rule across the board now on ladies’ watches, with at least the option of a significantly diamond-set bezel). The movement, the automatic tourbillon Calibre

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graph for women in its Mille Miglia collection, the annual special edition that marks Chopard’s sponsorship of the scenic, 1,000-mile race from Brescia to Rome. The ladies’ version is 39 mm compared to the men’s 42 mm model, and has a motherof-pearl dial with (or without) a diamondset bezel. It contains the same COSCcertified movement, ETA Calibre 2894-2, as the men’s. Vacheron Constantin also introduced a chronograph for ladies’ this year, with a new, ultra-thin caliber. The Harmony Chronograph Small Model contains Calibre 1142, an enhanced version of an existing caliber that is now made to Poinçon de Genève standards and has a higher frequency (3 Hz rather than 2.5 Hz) to improve the shock-resistance. The watch is 11.74 mm thick and 37 mm wide.

A FEMININE TOUCH

The watch industry is also recognizing that not only do women like to drive, they also like to dive. It can be difficult to find a diver’s watch to fit a ladies’ wrist, because everything must be watertight and cases therefore tend to be a bit chunky, particularly with a mechanical movement. Carl F. Bucherer is among those who have introduced one specifically for ladies. The Patravi ScubaTec SFA Ladies is 36 mm wide and 11.37 mm thick, and has all the hallmarks of a professional dive watch: a unidirectional rotating bezel (in white and red ceramic); a tough steel case with screw-down crown and crown protector; a flexible rubber strap; and water-resistance to 200 meters. It contains the CFB automatic Calibre 1950, with a 38-hour power reserve. The watch marks the brand’s sponsorship of

the Swiss national women’s football team. Watch companies have also recently let go of the fear of showing too much of the technical side of a ladies’ watch. Some of the most avant-garde men’s watches display the movement on the dial side, rather than under the plate — the MB & F Legacy Machine and Manufacture Royale Opera come to mind, as does Breguet’s Tradition collection, which showcases the movement, in honor of classic mechanical watchmaking. Piaget similarly shows the workings of its mechanical engine in the 18k pink gold Altiplano 900P, the world’s thinnest manual-wound movement. The dime-thin profile of the watch — at just 3.65 mm thick — is accomplished by making the caseback double as the main plate, onto which the movement is built, with the whole assembly also serving as the dial.

the magic touch Jean-Claude Biver, head of the watch division at luxury behemoth LVMH, has a peculiar talent for getting the best out of a brand. After Hublot and TAG Heuer, Zenith is next to benefit from his magic touch. When earlier this year Zenith was placed temporarily in the hands of JeanClaude Biver, for as long as it took to appoint a new CEO, it was only a matter of time before the brand was given the kind of “shock treatment” for which Biver is known. Throughout

JE AN-CL AUDE BIVER , HE AD OF LVMH’S WATCH DIVISION

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50 WATCH YOUR TIME USA

his busy career, Jean-Claude Biver has made a habit of shaking up the brands under his control before landing them squarely in the spotlight. He began with Blancpain, then Omega, before moving on to luxury conglomerate LVMH, owner of Hublot, TAG Heuer and Zenith. In fact Hublot offers a perfect example of Biver-style success. From a little-known brand when he took over the reins a dozen years ago, it now has a global audience for its acclaimed products, and continues to grow from one year to the next. With the brand firmly on track, Biver was able to hand over to Ricardo Guadalupe who, Biver insists, helped conceive and develop “the Hublot machine”.

III

I · PIAGET ALTIPLANO DOUBLE JEU. THE ALTIPL ANO DOUBLE

I I I · G IR ARD - PE RRG AUX L AURE ATO 34 MM. THE L AURE A-

V · TAG HEUER CARRERA HEUER-02T BAGUETTE. IN 2017, ONE

JEU WITH ITS T WO SUPERIMPOSED CASES IDE ALLY LENDS

TO 34 MM IS A NEW WASP-WAISTED SIZE . IT IS CLOTHED IN

YEAR AF TER THE LAUNCH OF ITS HEUER-02T MANUFACTURE

ITSELF TO THE L ACEMAKER ’S WOR K . THE DIAMOND -SE T

LIGHT AND ADORNED WITH PRECIOUS STONES. IN STEEL ,

CHRONO TOURBILLON, TAG HEUER IS UNVEILING A NEW DE-

UPPER MODULE IS AT TIRED IN THE PRECIOUS AND DAINT Y

GOLD OR A COMBINATION OF BOTH, THIS GIR ARD-PERRE-

LUXE VERSION, WITH 68 SPARKLING BAGUET TE DIAMONDS

GOLD L ACEWORK WITH A R ADIATING MOTIF ENHANCED BY

GAUX ICON IS INTERPRETED IN A DAINT Y SHAPE RIMMED BY

SET INTO THE BEZEL. THIS DAZZLING TAKE ON MECHANICAL

MARQUISE-CUT DIAMONDS.

A HALO OF 56 DIAMONDS.

WATCHMAKING STRIKES A PERFECT BALANCE BETWEEN THE

II · A . L ANGE & SÖHNE LIT TLE LANGE 1 MOONPHASE. THIS

IIII · FREDERIQUE CONSTANT HOROLOGICAL SMART WATCH

WORLDS OF LUXURY JEWELRY AND HOROLOGY.

MODEL COMES WITH A GUILLOCHÉ SILVER-TONED DIAL IN-

LADIES FC 281. ORIGINALLY LAUNCHED IN 2015, THE HORO-

VI · R ADO HYPERCHROME CAPTAIN COOK. R ADO IS CON-

SIDE A PINK GOLD CASE . THE MOON DISC IS INSCRIBED

LOGICAL SMARTWATCH WAS BORN AFTER THREE YEARS OF

TINUING ITS RE TRO RE VIVAL WITH THE REL AUNCH OF ITS

WITH TWO GOLDEN MOONS. THIS ASTRONOMICAL COMPLI-

R&D. THE LADIES’ VERSIONS COMBINE THE TWO WORLDS OF

VINTAGE CAP TAIN COOK COLLECTION. THE NEW CAP TAIN

CATION REPRODUCES THE SYNODIC ORBIT SO ACCUR ATE-

HIGH-TECH INNOVATION WITH THE TRADITIONAL SWISS WATCH

COOK FAMILY OFFERS A TRIO OF TIMEKEEPERS FOR MEN

LY THAT AF TER 122.6 YE ARS IT WILL DIFFER FROM THE AC-

CRAFTSMANSHIP, OFFERING A REFINED, ELEGANT AND FEM-

AND WOMEN WHO WANT TO PULL OFF A HIP CASUAL LOOK

TUAL POSITION OF THE MOON BY JUST ONE DAY.

ININE DESIGN WATCH WITH CONNECTED FUNCTIONALITIES.

WITH ST YLE AND WHIMSY.

The indefatigable manager then brought his Midas touch to TAG Heuer. The brand has refocused on its core sports watches, and made a successful venture into smart watches, having

recently unveiled the second-generation TAG Heuer Connected Modular 45. This is the first connected watch to qualify for the Swiss-Made label, and carries on the partnership between TAG Heuer, Google and Intel to provide the very latest functions. It offers an impressive range of personalization options, with swappable straps and lugs. Even the smart watch itself can be removed and replaced with a mechanical timepiece. Living up to the promise to deliver “technologie d’avant-garde” (the TAG in TAG Heuer), Biver is already promising a third version that will operate independently of a smartphone — a downside of just about any smartwatch currently on the market. With TAG Heuer on course to generate over a billion Swiss francs in revenue in the very near future, all that remained was for JeanClaude Biver to arouse Zenith from its slumber. The brand, founded in 1865, teased visitors to the Basel watch fair in March with a

taste of what’s to come by presenting the Zenith Defy El Primero 21. The main chronograph seconds hand of this mechanical watch makes one turn of the dial every second to track time with one-hundredth-of-a-second accuracy. And that’s not all Biver has up his sleeve. This fall, Zenith lifted the lid on a completely new type of regulator that has neither balance nor balance spring. This high-frequency, friction-free (hence zero lubrication), silicon-based regulator will deliver accuracy in the region of one second per day. And just to show that Zenith is now “the future of tradition”, this revolutionary mechanism will premiere in what Biver is claiming will be the most accurate mechanical watch ever — a watch that maintains its amplitude however much wind is left in the mainspring. The case will be crafted from Aeronite, an ultra-lightweight, ultra-resistant alloy of aluminum and the same resin used for carbon. Eric Dumatin

H U B LOT BIG BANG MECA-10 MAGIC GOLD. TH I S WATC H W I LL

ZENITH DEF Y EL PRIMERO 21. ZENITH MARKS THE THIRD MILLEN-

TAG HEUER AQUAR ACER 300M CALIBRE 5 BLACK TITANIUM. WITH

STRIKE A SPECIAL CHORD WITH ANYONE WHOSE FAVORITE CHILD-

NIUM WITH A NEW HIGH-PERFORMANCE CHRONOGR APH MOVE-

ITS L ARGE 43 MM SIZE, THIS WATCH SPORTS A MASCULINE LOOK .

HOOD TOY WAS A CONSTRUCTION SET. INSIDE L AYS HUB1201, A

MENT: A HUNDREDTH OF A SECOND INDICATION VIA THE CENTRE

THE MODEL OFFERS A WATER RESISTANCE TO 300 METERS THANKS

NEW MECHANICAL CALIBER WHICH HUBLOT DESIGNED AND DEVE-

HAND, AN IN-HOUSE COSC - CERTIFIED CALIBRE , A DUAL- CHAIN

TO DOU B LE G AS K E TS AN D A SC R E W- I N C ROWN . I NS I DE , TH E

LOPED IN-HOUSE . UNIQUE AND PROPRIETARY TO HUBLOT, MAGIC

ARCHITECTURE, THE CARBON NANOTUBE REGUL ATOR THAT IS IM-

SELLITA SW200-BASED CALIBRE 5 AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT BEATS AT

GOLD IS THE WORLD’S FIRST AND ONLY 18-K AR AT SCR ATCH PROOF

PERVIOUS TO MAGNETISM AND TEMPER ATURE CHANGES, AND THE

28,800 VIBRATIONS PER HOUR WITH A POWER RESERVE OF 38 HOURS.

GOLD ALLOY.

45 MM TITANIUM 1970S-ST YLE CASE .

THE FUTURE OF TRADITION

FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME USA 51

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES THE MCL AREN-HONDA

THE SPLIT-SECONDS CHRONOGR APH

FORMUL A1 CAR SPONSORED

BRIDGE IN TP T ™ CARBON OF

BY RICHARD MILLE

THE RM 50-03 CALIBRE .

RICHARD MILLE, FOUNDER AND CEO OF RICHARD MILLE

master mille By thinking outside the box of traditional watchmaking, Richard Mille has created a brand revered for its highly technical, architectural watches. A sign of this success, it is expanding in North America and opening a seventh store there, in New York City. To say that Richard Mille is not your average watch brand would be an understatement. Having burst onto the scene in 2001, it wasted no time in imposing its unconventional way of thinking on the industry, picking up a legion of fans in the process. In a word, Richard Mille turned the prestige watch segment on its head with its eyebrow-raising, technology-laden designs. “A lot of today’s big names are using modern tools such as CNC machines and computer-aided design to produce what are essentially replicas of nineteenth-century watches,” says Richard Mille, the man. “I couldn’t see the point. It’s as though Ford started using today’s methods to roll out copies of the 1926 Bugatti Royale.” Hence why Richard Mille, the brand, makes its watches from futuristic materials, encasing movements that are built like Formula 1 engines and designed to adapt to the most extreme conditions. It’s an ongoing recipe for success. An interview published ear52 WATCH YOUR TIME USA FOCUS

lier this year in The New York Times notes that production went from 3,200 watches in 2015 to 3,500 last year, and that the company expects to reach 4,000 watches this year. “Our exports last year from Switzerland were around $270 million,” says Mille in the same interview. “We had over 20% growth.” Retail success has rubbed off on the brand’s environment. When Mille first met Rafael Nadal in 2008, he had his work cut out convincing the tennis star to wear one of his watches during a match. Now Rafa wouldn’t pick up a racket without his Richard Mille on his wrist. In fact he was wearing his seventh Richard Mille watch when he clinched his tenth victory at this year’s Roland-Garros French Open in Paris, becoming the first ever ten-times winner of a Grand Slam tournament. A record that isn’t likely to be broken any time soon. BUILT FOR CHAMPIONS

Sending Nadal onto the court with an “ordinary” timepiece just isn’t an option, particularly as Mille likes to remind us that his watches are meant to be worn, not squirreled away in a safe, as their value might suggest. However, equipping the Spanish champion with a timepiece capa-

THE RICHARD MILLE BE VERLY HILLS BOUTIQUE IS ONE OF THE SE VEN BOUTIQUES OPENED BY THE BR AND IN THE UNITED STATES.

ble of withstanding the shocks endured during a world-class tennis match implies a high level of technical competency. And all the more so when the watch in question is fitted with a tourbillon regulator, a mechanism which compensates the effects of gravity on the movement and which, theoretically, shouldn’t be subjected to jolts and knocks if it is to carry out its function properly. Fortunately, Richard Mille loves a challenge. Enter the RM 27-03, an uncommon timepiece made for Rafael Nadal and capable of withstanding shocks of up to 10,000 g — equivalent to dropping it from a height of two meters onto a hard floor. By way of comparison, linear acceleration during any (nonmechanical) sport will at best hover around the 300-g mark. Then there is the RM 27-01, originally developed for Rafael Nadal and now worn by fellow pro tennis player Alexander Zverev. The movement is suspended by cables just 0.35 mm in diameter, and withstands shocks up to 5,000 g. The case is injected with carbon nanotubes and is

extremely strong — even though the entire watch, strap included, weighs in at a remarkably light and as yet unparalleled 18.83 grams. These, and just about every other Richard Mille watch, are cut out for extreme environments, hence why so many members of the brand’s “family” come from the world of professional sport, including athletics, golf, Formula 1, skiing, polo and dressage. It would be hard to imagine a more appropriate endorsement for the brand than these high-achieving men and women who demonstrate the exceptional qualities of the watches they wear in their respective competitions. On the green, on the track, on the circuit… this is where Richard Mille puts its watches through their paces. Fernando Alonso’s RM 50-03, the lightest mechanical chrono in the world at 40 grams, was designed and tested to go the distance on circuits as tough as Silverstone… no matter how many were “exploded” in this quest for perfection. The latest to date are the two watches

made for Olympic high-jump silver-medallist Mutaz Essa Barshim, and for Wayde van Niekerk, Olympic champion and world-record holder in the 400 meters. Both wear an automatic RM 67-02.

RICHARD MILLE RM 50-03 MCLAREN-F1. THE MOVEMENT OF THIS

RICHARD MILLE RM 035 GOLD TORO. SATIN-FINISHED 18K RED GOLD

RICHARD MILLE RM 035 BLACK TORO. FOLLOWING THE LEAD OF THE

RM 50-03 TOURBILLON CHRONOGR APH, WITH 30-MINUTE TOTAL-

FORMS THE TRIPARTITE, TONNEAU-SHAPED CASE OF THE RM 035 GOLD

VERY FIRST RM 035 RAFAEL NADAL, WHICH WAS HOUSED IN A DEEP

ISER AND INDICATORS FOR POWER RESERVE, TORQUE AND FUNC-

TORO. THE TIMEPIECE’S CROWN, BUCKLE AND HANDS ARE ALSO

BLACK MAGNESIUM ALLOY CASE, THE NEW RM 035 BLACK TORO IS

TION, BARELY TIPS THE SCALES AT 7 GRAMS. THE ENTIRE WATCH,

CRAFTED IN THE PRECIOUS METAL. THE RM 035 BLACK TORO AND RM

A STRONG YET LIGHT-WEIGHT TIMEPIECE WITH A DARK PRESENCE.

DEVELOPED IN PARTNERSHIP WITH MCLAREN WEIGHS A RECORD-

035 GOLD TORO ARE BOTH LIMITED EDITIONS AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY

THE TOP AND BOTTOM BEZELS OF THE TRIPARTITE CASE ARE CRAFT-

BREAKING 40 GRAMS IN TOTAL.

AT RICHARD MILLE BOUTIQUES THROUGHOUT THE AMERICAS.

ED IN BLACK TZP, A CERAMIC THAT IS BLASTED FOR MATTE EFFECT.

HIGH-MECH

The case of the RM 67-02 makes use of Carbon TPT® and Quartz TPT®. These two composite materials are exclusive to Richard Mille and possess exceptional shock-resistance. In the brand’s own words, “the slimness of the 7.8-mm bezel/ caseband/caseback assembly in no way reduces its physical properties, nor its ability to handle any situation that might occur while engaging in highlevel sports. The secret of Quartz TPT® lies in its layering of silica filaments with a maximum diameter of 40 microns. These are assembled by a dedicated machine that modifies the fibers’ orientation by 45° at each layer, then impregnated with three newly developed colored resins: crimson for the RM 67-02 High Jump associated

with Mutaz, who is Qatari, and two — yellow and green — in the 67-02 Sprint, for Wayde’s native South Africa. The Carbon TPT® employed for the caseband is produced according to the same process, using carbon fibers.” Richard Mille clearly leaves nothing to chance, even though this means years of development before one of these mechanical marvels sees daylight. By seeking out the best in technology, then taking this technology to its ultimate limits in watches that are pure three-dimensional mechanics, the brand has paved the way for present and future success. Proof of this, the watchmaker is currently building new production facilities in Switzerland, and is adding to its network of stores. This includes its first boutique in New York City, which is also its seventh in North America after Aspen, Bal Harbour, Beverly Hills, Las Vegas, Miami and St. Barth. The new store is at 46 East 57th Street, which is the retail side of the 432 Park Avenue building, currently the tallest residential tower in the Western Hemisphere. It will carry what Mille likes to describe as “clinical watches, the antithesis of bling. Watches that elicit the emotions.” Nothing can stop a champion in his tracks. Christophe Roulet FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME USA 53

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES

–o–––- laurie kahle

VINTAGE VANGUARD The retro design craze makes everything old new again.

RADO HYPERCHROME 1616 R ADO IS BEEFING UP ITS VINTAGEINSPIRED OFFERINGS. A COLORFUL NEW LIMITED EDITION MODEL JOINS TO THE BOLD, NOSTALGIA-INFUSED HYPERCHROME 1616 LINE-UP. BOASTING AN UNMISTAK ABLE L ATE-60S BUILD, THE HYPERCHROME 1616 CUTS A STRIKING AND MASCULINE FIGURE ON THE WRIST. MEASURING AN EYE-CATCHING 46 MM ACROSS, ITS BOXY DIAL IS VISUALLY IMPRESSIVE, REMINISCENT OF THE OUTSIZED AESTHETIC OF THE ER A. THE HANDS AND INDEXES ARE SIMIL ARLY HEAV YSET, FORMING A STRIKING CONTR AST TO THE VIVID BLUE OF THE DIAL. THE HARDENED GR ADE FIVE TITANIUM CASE FASTENS TO THE WRIST WITH A THICK TEXTURED VINTAGE LEATHER STR AP, ROUNDING OUT THE LOOK OF THIS RETRO REISSUE.

A reverence for tradition has always run deep in the centuries-old watch industry. Legacy brands have long tapped their archives for design inspiration and celebrated anniversaries of flagship models, which have gotten tweaked for timeliness over the decades. But in recent years, the design pendulum’s heavy swing to retro motifs has more and more brands reviving vintage models or merely channeling their spirits. During The Great Recession, classic styling was embraced as a comforting balm in troubled times, as the industry hoped that tradition would translate into sales. Some point out that the industry’s pivot to the more conservative Chinese market further fueled the classic trend’s momentum. Whatever economic and cultural factors have been at play, classic — specifically, retro — eventually became cool. Like facial hair and vinyl records, vintage watches made a comeback with trendsetting Millennials, whose numbers surpassed the Baby Boomers last year. Their immersion in today’s fast-moving digital culture has triggered a yearning for old-fashioned and enduring values — a curious nostalgia for things they have never known or experienced. “For clients in their 20s and 30s, it’s a pursuit of permanence in an era of obsolescence,” says Michael Friedman,

It is classic bec ause of a certain eternal and irrepressible freshness — Ezra Pound ( 1 8 8 5 — 1 9 7 2 ) historian at Audemars Piguet, who sees a broader phenomenon that transcends watch collecting and applies to Millennial culture at large. “They’re looking for authenticity, they’re looking for something real, they’re looking for something permanent, stable, strong, evocative. Not just in the realm of watches, but in broader decision making as well.” At Audemars Piguet, the indomitable Royal Oak, introduced in 1972, continues to reign. This year, the brand marked the 20 th anniversary of the first chronograph in the range with seven new models in steel and pink gold distinguished by a new two-tone dial with upsized chronograph counters. Other tweaks include a repositioned date window, off-centered between four and five o’clock. THE SIGNIFICANCE OF THE MILLENNIAL MARKET

The aspirational Millennial market is clearly in the sights of TAG Heuer, which is aggressively targeting youth culture with social media and ambassadors, such as model and Instagram star Bella Hadid and street artist Alex Monopoly. “We need to

start with Millennials,” said Jean-Claude Biver, CEO of TAG Heuer and President of the LVMH Group Watch Division, at the announcement of new TAG ambassador J. Balvin, a popular Colombian reggaeton artist, in Miami last February. “Although they cannot buy now, they will be buying later. They have become the new market. If you don’t talk to them now, how can they dream about you later?” This year’s Autavia Rindt is a reissue of the 1962 model worn by Austrian F1 driver Jochen Rindt, who died on the track during practice for the 1970 Italian Grand Prix at Monza. The Autavia’s comeback was the result of last year’s campaign dubbed the Autavia Cup, which engaged more than 50,000 collectors and enthusiasts to vote online for their pick of 16 Sixties-era Autavias that they wanted to see reincarnated.

ULYSSE NARDIN CLASSICO PAUL DAVID NARDIN SINCE 1846, WHEN NAVAL COMMANDERS AND MERCHANT CAP TAINS FROM ALL AROUND THE WORLD CAME LOOKING FOR ULYSSE NARDIN’S MARINE AND POCKE T CHRONOME TERS, THE COMPANY HAS BEEN BUILDING ON HIS WINNING APPROACH OF TIMEKEEPING INNOVATION AND PRECISION. TODAY, THE RELE ASE OF THE CL ASSICO PAUL DAVID NARDIN TIMEPIECE CELEBR ATES THIS ILLUSTRIOUS HISTORY IN A CONTEMPOR ARY WAY. NAMED AF TER ULYSSE NARDIN’S SON, PAUL DAVID, WHO TOOK CONTROL OF THE COMPANY AF TER HIS DE ATH IN 1876, THIS TIMEPIECE IS MODELED AF TER A 1945 TIMEPIECE .

TAG Heuer increased the original 39 mm design to 42 mm and outfitted it with the new Heuer-02 caliber automatic chronograph movement. The black and white panda dial, mushroom push-pieces, ridged crown, old Heuer logo, and distressed calfskin strap underscore the retro vibe, while a date function, water-resistance to 100 meters, and a sapphire case back for viewing the movement place the new Autavia firmly in the 21st century. VINTAGE WATCH YOUR TIME USA 55

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES

THE MAGICAL VINTAGE AESTHETIC

emotional crescendo It all started with a small drawing, a quick sketch on a scrap of paper. This was in 2012 at Baselworld, the international watch exhibition. The sketcher was the artistic director of La Montres Hermès, Philippe Delhotal. He was in the company of Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, watchmaker and founder of Agenhor. The reason for this pencil sketch can be seen today in the form of L’Heure Impatiente, part of the Slim d’Hermès collection. Although this watch could be passed off as a simple countdown timer, that would be to ignore the poetic spirit of a house that prefers to play with time rather than submit to its commands. In poetic terms, this complication comes from a “jubilatory ritual that consists of setting the timer on one’s watch to the hotly anticipated event. One hour before the event, the mechanical timer is activated, and its progress can be tracked at 6 o’clock on the dial. The complication sets off this exquisite torment that puts us in a state of pleasurable turmoil, ending on a high note when the moment finally arrives.” In technical terms, this takes the form of a module that complements the Hermès manufacture movement H1912. Agenhor’s watchmakers had to overcome the major difficulties involved in balancing the energy requirements, as only the energy of the movement was available to power the countdown timer and striking mechanism. Being a single strike on a single gong, it had to be as long and audible as possible. The problem was not insurmountable, however; think of the Arceau Le Temps Suspendu and Dressage L’heure Masquée. “With these two watches, we marked and formalized a territory of Hermès time, which represents the values of freedom and lightness,” explains Laurent Dordet, CEO of La Montre Hermès. “Knowhow, quality, precision, all that is naturally part of our watchmaking expertise, but to that we add the spirit of the house, where we like to do things seriously, without taking ourselves seriously.” C.R.

Omega CEO and President Raynald Aeschlimann also acknowledges the significance of the Millennial market when it comes to the popularity of retro design. “It is not only the external values of always having the latest,” he explains. “By contrast, it’s more about what I wear and why I wear it. It goes back to Millennials — they make a big impact on all of this by asking why? Then there are the inner values of having a watch that maybe their father or grandfather used to wear. That makes the whole relationship to the watch one that we like to share — that a watch means not only something for people looking at me but also something for me.” As sales in vintage watches surged, prices in that market peaked with values on

coveted models rising exponentially in recent years. Manufacturers have taken note and are recreating or reinterpreting pieces from the past century. This year, we have seen revivals of vintage designs from a wide range of brands: Blancpain, Breitling, Longines, Oris, Panerai, Seiko, Tutima, and others. For legacy brands, special anniversary models celebrate heritage and simultaneously tap into the current retro trend, while other designs simply reinterpret vintage codes for the modern age. Rolex hit a home run with the new 50 th anniversary Sea-Dweller, which made retailers’ phones ring as

soon as it was unveiled at Baselworld. Patek Philippe celebrated 20 years of Aquanaut, while the reference 5320G perpetual calendar alludes to pieces from the 1940s and ’50s with a creamy lacquer dial and stylized hands and Arabic numerals. This fall, another old-guard maison, Vacheron Constantin, is revisiting its cushion-shaped Harmony collection with a new grand complication based on the brand’s first wrist chronographs from 1928. Looking to the more recent past, IWC sought to resurrect the 1980s with its extensive Portofino range featuring a number of models aimed at women. Cartier also ventured back to the Big Eighties with the resurrected Panthère.

III

VII

“There is a real market trend for vintage, and this year at Baselworld you saw the brands respond to that, whether they are coming out with vintage collections or tribute models,” says Brian Walker, executive vice president at Shreve, Crump & Low with stores in Boston, Chestnut Hill, Mass., and Greenwich, Conn. Walker highlights Omega as one of the most savvy in feeding consumer appetites for retro, particularly with this year’s 60 th anniversary limited edition tributes to three models that debuted in 1957: The Seamaster 300, the Railmaster, and the Speedmaster. Employing a digital scanning technology for the first time, Omega aesthetically stayed true to the originals,

IIII

VIII

but the contemporary revivals have been endowed with modern technical advances, such as the Railmaster’s (and Seamaster 300’s) Master Chronometer 8806 movement, which resists magnetic fields up to a remarkable 15,000 gauss. Other retro models such as the Speedmaster Racing and the Speedy Tuesday limited edition take a less literal approach and simply draw inspiration from classic watches. “The vintage aesthetic has created some kind of magic in the success of some brands and models like we have, because they have made the link between what people want to see on the wrist in terms of the look and what we can produce

SLIM D’ HE RMÈ S L’HEURE IMPATIENTE. HER MES HAS ALRE ADY E VOKED THE POE TRY OF

I · ROLE X CELLINI MOONPHASE. TH E C EL L I N I M OON -

III · AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK EXTR A-THIN. TO MARK

V · RONDE CROISIERE DE CARTIER WATCH. THIS CASUAL

V I I · PAT E K P H I LI P P E AQUANAUT R EFER ENCE 516 8G

IX · MONTBL ANC 1958 AUTOMATIC. THE VI NTAGE ST YLE

TIME WITH LE TEMPS SUSPENDU IN THE ARCE AU COLLECTION IN 2011, THEN WITH L’HEURE

PHASE FE ATURES AN UNUSUAL MOON-PHASE D ISPL AY

THE 40 th ANNIVERSARY OF THE FIRST PRECIOUS ME TAL

CHIC 42 MM WATCH DISPLAYING HOURS, MINUTES, SECONDS

AF TER THE 40 th ANNIVERSARY OF THE NAUTILUS IN 2016,

OF THE MONTBL ANC 1858 COLLECTION IS ONCE AGAIN IN

MASQUÉE IN THE DRESSAGE R ANGE IN 2014. FOR THIS HEURE IMPATIENTE, THE COMPANY

ON A WHITE L ACQUER DIAL , ENCASED IN 18K E VEROSE

ROYAL OAKS, AUDEMARS PIGUE T HAS CRE ATED A NE W

AND THE DATE IS EQUIPPED WITH THE CALIBRE 1847 MC.

PATEK PHILIPPE IS CELEBR ATING A NEW MILESTONE THIS

THE SPOTLIGHT WITH THE INTRODUCTION OF BRONZE . BY

NATUR ALLY CHOSE ITS SLIM LINE, WHICH HAS BEEN IN THE SPOTLIGHT FOR THE PAST T WO

GOLD WITH A 39 - M M DIAM E TER . T WO MOONS ARE DE-

SERIES OF E XTR A-THIN VERSIONS IN YELLOW GOLD. THE

WHILE THE CARTIER SIGNATURE CODES ARE ALL FEATURED

YEAR AS THE AQUANAUT TURNS TWENTY. THE NEW REFER-

CHOOSING THIS ME TAL , MONTBL ANC IS COMBINING TR A-

YE ARS IN ITS HOURS, MINUTES AND SMALL SECONDS VERSION, AS WELL AS A MODEL WITH

PICTED ON A BLUE ENAMELED DISC AT 6 O’CLOCK: A FULL

18K YELLOW GOLD “JUMBO” IS AVAIL ABLE WITH T WO DIS-

IN THIS CROISIÈRE MODEL, IT NONETHELESS FLAUNTS SEVE-

ENCE 5168G IS THE FIRST MEN’S MODEL IN THE COLLECTION

DITIONAL SWISS WATCHMAKING CR AF TSMANSHIP WITH A

PERPE TUAL CALENDAR . AS THIS HEURE IMPATIENTE FROM HERMÈS STRIKES A SINGLE TONE

MOON, SHOWN BY A ME TEORITE APPLIQUE, AND A NEW

TINCT “PE TITE TAPISSERIE” DIALS.

R AL DISTINCTIVE CHAR ACTERISTICS, STARTING WITH ITS AD-

TO BE PROPOSED IN WHITE GOLD, A METAL RECOGNIZABLE

T YPICAL MATERIAL IN THE HISTORY OF TIMEPIECES.

TO MARK THE END OF THE COUNTDOWN TIMER , THE GONG HAD TO BE PARTICUL ARLY WELL

MOON REPRESENTED BY A SILVER RING.

IIII · GIRARD -PERREGAUX 1966 WW.TC. SHORT FOR WORLD

LC-COATED BEZEL EVOKING THE DIVING SPIRIT.

AS HAVING A MUCH WARMER SHEEN THAN STEEL.

X · LONGINES FLAGSHIP HERITAGE. THIS YEAR, LONGINES

DESIGNED TO OFFER A LONG, POWERFUL CHIME. A STEEL ALLOY WAS EVENTUALLY CHOSEN

II · PANERAI LUMINOR DUE 3 DAYS ACCIAIO. THE DUE LINE

WIDE TIME CONTROL, THE WW.TC WORLDTIMER MAKES ITS

VI · CHOPARD L.U.C GMT ONE. TO CELEBR ATE THE 20 th AN-

VIII · BVLGARI OCTO ROMA. SIMPLICIT Y, DONE PROPERLY,

CELEBRATES 60 YEARS OF ITS FIRST FLAGSHIP COLLECTION.

AF TER SOME 30 TESTS CARRIED OUT WITH DIFFERENT MATERIALS AND CONFIGUR ATIONS.

HAS ALL THE RECOGNIZ ABLE FE ATURES OF THE LUM I -

DEBUT IN GIR ARD-PERREGAUX’S MOST URBANE COLLEC-

NIVERSARY OF ITS MANUFACTURE IN FLEURIER , CHOPARD

CAN BE HARD TO ACHIEVE BUT WELL WORTH THE EFFORT, AS

TO MARK THE OCCASION, THE WATCHMAKER IS PRESENT-

NOR CASE. ONLY THE HEIGHT DIFFERS, IN LINE WITH THE

TION. DRESSED IN THE ELEGANT LINES OF THE 1966, THIS IS

LAUNCHED THE FIRST L.U.C WATCH TO FEATURE A DUAL-TIME

BVLGARI SHOWS WITH THE OCTO ROMA. THE ITALIAN FIRM

ING THIS TIMEPIECE INSPIRED BY A FLAGSHIP MODEL THAT

TREND FOR THINNER CASES. AT JUST 10.5MM THICK, THESE

THE MUST WHEN AN ORDINARY DAY INVOLVES SWITCHING

FUNCTION BUILT INTO THE MOVEMENT. ITS GMT FUNCTION

HAS KEPT 58 OF THE 110 FACETS OF THE ORIGINAL OCTAGO-

IS KEPT AT ITS SWISS HEADQUARTERS. AVAILABLE IN STEEL,

ARE, IN FACT, THE THINNEST LUMINOR WATCHES TO DATE.

TIME ZONES AT LE AST ONCE — FOR THE SIMULTANEOUS

SERVES TO DISPLAY A SECOND TIME ZONE AND TELLS THE

NAL SHAPE TO CREATE A MORE ROUNDED APPEARANCE, BUT

YELLOW GOLD AND ROSE GOLD, THESE NUMBERED LIMITED-

DISPLAY OF THE TIME IN 24 CITIES.

TIME IN ANY PLACE AND EVERY CIRCUMSTANCE.

WITHOUT LOSING ANY OF THE OCTO’S POWERFUL DESIGN.

EDITION TIMEPIECES FEATURE A FLAGSHIP ON THEIR BACK.

56 WATCH YOUR TIME USA

56 WATCH YOUR TIME USA HIGH-TECH · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · ·

WATCH YOUR TIME USA 57

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES

three into one When earlier this year Chopard released the L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined, it reaffirmed its belief that a watch can be beautiful, with superlative mechanisms, and meet high ethical standards. First, appearances: the dial of this limited-edition watch exhibits a magnificent sunburst texture, rendered all the more striking by the contrast between its slate gray colour and the pink gold of the case which measures a slender 7.20 mm “thick”. The offset crown at the 4 o’clock position and the seconds subdial at 7 o’clock create interesting symmetry. For the movement, Chopard has chosen the L.U.C 96.09-L calibre whose two mainspring barrels deliver a comfortable power reserve of 65 hours. It meets Qualité Fleurier standards, which are the toughest in the business. First of all, the movement’s precision is testifed by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC). It then goes through three weeks of testing to obtain Chronofiable certification. The finished watch is then tested on the Fleuritest machine which simulates the conditions of being worn on the wrist over 24 hours. Last and certainly not least are the ethical considerations embodied in Chopard’s use of Fairmined gold — part of a long-term commitment, Journey to Sustainable Luxury, that was launched in 2013. The initiative began with an agreement between Chopard and the South American NGO, Alliance for Responsible Mining. This made the Swiss firm the first luxury watch and jewelry house to support gold-mining communities in their endeavours to obtain Fairmined certification. As Chopard explains, “the Fairmined label ensures that gold is extracted in a responsible manner by smallscale mining communities, in which both miners and the environment are properly treated.” In order to guarantee the traceability of this Fairmined gold, Chopard implements a separate protocol in its Geneva workshops, where Fairmined gold is never mixed with other gold alloys and even the waste is dealt with separately. C.R.

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES

with modern methods,” says Aeschlimann, who adds that Omega enthusiasts often purchase a new version of a beloved vintage model in their collections. He also notes a synergy between the old and the new. “If today’s Speedmasters were not so successful, then vintage Speedmasters would not be as attractive as they are.” Audemars Piguet’s Friedman has also noticed the confluence of past and present as collectors who previously stuck to either vintage or contemporary pieces are now purchasing across those traditional boundaries and enjoying the best of both worlds. “Collectors may wear a vintage piece on a special occasion, but wear a modern interpretation every day,” he

says. For such established houses, the long-term success of brand pillars has little to do with passing trends and is more about cultivating a new generation of informed collectors and communicating about authenticity, quality, and exclusivity. While they occasionally may faithfully revisit the originals, the emphasis tends to be more on evolving them. “We don’t view heritage and history as just remaining there,” explains Friedman. “When we release a new product, we want to make something for today, and we want it to be contemporary. At the same time, we make sure there are good, strong historical threads.” Or, as Aeschlimann puts it, “I think that by respecting the past, you can create a future.”

the highest distinction

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CHOPARD L.U.C XPS T WIST QF FAIRMINED. THIS MODEL IS EQUIPPED WITH A SELF-WINDING

I · BAUME & MERCIER CLIF TON CLUB. A WATCH DESIG-

III · SEIKO PRESAGE. SEIKO’S PRESAGE COLLECTION EM-

MOVEM ENT: L .U.C CALI BRE 96.09 - L . ITS PREC ISION IS TESTED BY THE SWISS OFFIC IAL

NED FOR MEN WHO ARE TRULY OF THEIR TIME. POWERED

BRACES THE FULL RANGE OF SEIKO MECHANICAL MOVEMENTS.

CHRONOME TER TESTING INSTITUTE (COSC), WHICH AWARDS THE WATCH THE SOUGHT-

BY A SWISS MADE MECHANICAL SELF-WINDING MOVEMENT

THE COLLECTION TAKES ITS DESIGN CUE FROM THE FIRST

AF TER CHRONOME TER TITLE . ITS RELIABILIT Y IS THEN VERIFIED BY THE CHRONOFIABLE

WITH DATE FUNCTION AND PROVEN RELIABILIT Y, BAUME

SEIKO WRISTWATCH, LAUREL, LAUNCHED IN 1913. MODELS IN-

PROTOCOL — INVOLVING THREE WEEKS OF “AGEING TESTS” DURING WHICH THE WATCH IS

& MERCIER’S CLIF TON CLUB IS MADE FOR THE MANY MEN

CLUDE A CHRONOGRAPH WITH ENAMEL DIAL, AND AN HOURS-

SUBJECTED TO HEAT, COLD AND DAMP, REPEATED PULL AND PUSH FORCES ON THE WINDING-

WHO WANT A MULTIPURPOSE, ST YLISH SPORTS WATCH.

MINUTES-SECONDS WITH RETROGRADE POWER RESERVE.

STEM, MAGNETIC FIELDS AND REPE ATED SHOCKS. THE OPER ATION OF THE FINISHED WATCH

I I · TISSOT HERITAGE 1936. FOLLOWING WORLD WAR I ,

IIII · ALPINA STARTIMER PILOT. FOLLOWING THE L AUNCH

IS SUBSEQUENTLY TESTED ON THE FLEURITEST MACHINE WHICH FAITHFULLY REPRODUCES

WHEN IT BECAME MORE PR ACTICAL TO WEAR A WATCH ON

OF THE STARTIMER PILOT AUTOMATIC, ALPINA CONTINUES

THE CONDITIONS OF WE AR ON THE WRIST DURING A 24-HOUR CYCLE .

THE WRIST, WATCHMAKERS STARTED TO WELD ARCHES

I TS STRONG FOC US ON P I LOT ’S WATC H ES W I TH TH E

ON E ACH SIDE OF A POCKE T WATCH CASE TO THEN SLIP

L ATEST STAR TI M ER P I LOT QUAR T Z . A LP I NA HAS BEEN ,

A STR AP ACROSS ITS BACK . THE TISSOT HERITAGE 1936

FOR MANY DECADES, A REFERENCE IN PROFESSIONAL

IS E X ACTLY THAT.

PILOT WATCHES.

58 WATCH YOUR TIME USA

Girard-Perregaux ticked all the boxes with its reissue of the Laureato, an icon of the 1970s. This vintage-inspired watch makes a fine companion for the brand’s more complex productions, including ones that perpetuate its emblematic Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges. At Girard-Perregaux, longevity is measured not in decades but in centuries. Indeed, the company’s origins stretch back to 1791, and from these earliest days it took a pioneering approach by bringing the different watchmaking trades under one roof,

thus anticipating the concept of a manufacture (the Swiss term for a company that makes its watches from start to finish in-house). Its workshops were frequented by such luminaries of the day as the future Queen Victoria and novelist Alexandre Dumas. Throughout its history, Girard-Perregaux has continued to nurture these different forms of technical acumen within its walls, and remain at the vanguard of the industry, as its 80 patents show. Investments made in R&D from the late 1950s have produced many gamechanging innovations. They include the Gyromatic, the first highfrequency movement, introduced in 1965, and the first serial-produced quartz watch whose frequency of 32,768 Hz became the standard for all quartz timepieces. More recently, the Constant Escapement — a constant-force system based on the physical property of buckling — revolutionized the way energy is transferred within a mechanical movement.

BACK TO BEGINNINGS

Just as important as the mechanics of a watch is its design, and here too, Girard-Perregaux excels. Take the Laureato, for example. First released in 1975, it broke with convention by having an octagonal bezel set into the case which connects seamlessly to the bracelet. When the time came to celebrate its 225th anniversary last year, the brand decided the Laureato had been overlooked for far too long, and released two limited editions of 225, both steel in honor of the original style. Fans clamored for more, and so the Laureato returns this year as a complete collection of thirty-some references in four diameters — 34, 38, 42 and 45 mm — and four metals. Four new movements equip this range, including a tourbillon and an in-house quartz calibre. “It’s important that we reconnect the brand with its 225-year history and heritage as we take ourselves into the future,” comments Antonio Calce, CEO of Girard-Perregaux for the past two years.

The one piece that dominates this heritage is the emblematic Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges. Patented in 1884, it won a Gold Medal at the Paris Exposition Universelle in 1889. It has proved an endless source of inspiration for the brand, whether in classic form or as this year’s futuristic interpretation, the NeoBridges. Whereas the iconic bridge generally carries a tourbillon, here it secures a large, variable-inertia balance that makes for fascinating viewing. A second bridge completes this modern architecture. More complex still, the Planetarium Tri-Axial is a showcase for the firm’s capacity for innovation. The majestic, high-speed tourbillon, which rotates not on one axis but three, is joined by a precision moon-phase display and a rotating globe; this latter is miniature-painted by hand to depict the world as it was known to cartographers in 1791, the year Girard-Perregaux was founded. A magnificent tribute. Christophe Roulet

G I R AR D - PE R R EG AUX L AURE ATO. AF TER I TS 1975 DEBUT, FO L-

G I R A R D - P E R R E G A U X N EO - B R I D G E S . G I R A R D - P E R R E G A U X

G I R A R D - PE R R E G AUX TR I-A XIAL PL ANE TAR IUM. TH R EE Y E A RS

LOWED BY SE VER AL DECADES LYING DORMANT, THE L AURE ATO

RE TURNS TO ITS ICONIC THREE GOLD BRIDGES WITH A FUTURIS-

AF TER UNVEILING ITS TRI-A XIAL TOURBILLON, GIR ARD-PERREGAUX

JUMPED BACK INTO THE SPOTLIGHT WHEN IT MADE ITS COMEBACK IN

TIC VERSION THAT LENDS A DISTINCTLY CONTEMPOR ARY COLOR

PUTS PERFORMANCE AND PRECISION CENTER-STAGE AGAIN. STILL

2016. A YEAR L ATER, GIR ARD-PERREGAUX ONCE AGAIN PUT ITS VIN-

TO THE WATCHMAKER’S LEGACY. USUALLY ASSOCIATED WITH A

TAKING PRIDE OF PL ACE, THE HIGH-SPEED TOURBILLON IS NOW

TAGE SILHOUET TE FRONT AND CENTER WITH A COMPLETE COLLEC-

TOURBILLON, THIS TIME THE MANUFACTURE’S SIGNATURE BRIDGE

JOINED BY T WO FASCINATING COMPLICATIONS. ON ONE SIDE, A

TION OF CLOSE TO 30 REFERENCES. AMONG THEM, THE L AURE ATO

H O LDS A L A RG E , VA R I A B LE- I N ER T I A BA L A N C E W H EEL W H OS E

PRECISION MOON PHASE. ON THE OTHER, A ROTATING GLOBE WITH

42 MM IN STEEL TAKES IN ALL THE AT TRIBUTES OF THE ORIGINAL .

OSCILL ATIONS ARE A SIGHT TO BEHOLD.

DAY/NIGHT INDICATION.

FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME USA 59

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES

–o–––- roberta naas

OPPOSITE DIRECTIONS As today’s wristwatch customers are entering the market at a younger age, accessible timepieces are a necessity. Additionally, today’s active lifestyles dictate that a complicated watch must have useful functions.

PIAGET EMPER ADOR COUSSIN XL 700P. ONCE CONFINED TO WOMEN’S WATCHES, QUARTZ MOVEMENTS HAVE PROMP TED A NUMBER OF SURPRISING NEW DE VELOPMENTS IN FINE WATCHMAKING OF L ATE . PIAGE T’S ENGINEERS STARTED OUT WITH A TR ADITIONAL MECHANICAL MOVEMENT, WITH AN OFF-CENTER MICRO-ROTOR TO WIND THE MAINSPRING AND A CONVENTIONAL GE AR TR AIN. ITS FORCE IS REGUL ATED NOT BY THE USUAL BAL ANCE-AND-SPRING ASSEMBLY BUT BY A MINIATURE GENER ATOR WHICH, AS IT TURNS, PRODUCES AN ELECTRIC CURRENT. THIS ACTS ON A QUARTZ TIMING PACK AGE WHICH REGUL ATES THE GENER ATOR’S ROTATIONAL SPEED OF PRECISELY 5.33 TURNS/SECOND.

Whereas in the past, brands engaged in a battle of oneupmanship to chock a watch with multiple complications, today’s call is for complications that offer necessary or useful functions such as world timers and GMTs, perpetual and annual calendars, chronographs, and the like. In addition to usefulness, today’s complicated watches must embrace good design, wherein the function doesn’t rule the look of the watch and where a return to classical looks can shine. This concept translates to a wealth of new ultra-thin watch and skeleton watches. Make no mistake: there will always be a market at the high-end of the spectrum, where super complications embody the very highest echelons of watchmaking. As such, the finest brands in the world continue to unveil astronomical watches, tourbillons with multiple escapements in a single piece, minute repeaters and jaquemarts that surprise and delight us. “The complicated watch has evolved,” says Jean-Claude Biver, head of watches for LVMH Group. “There is still an active market for complications where price is no limit, but more importantly we see a need for more accessible, affordably priced complications and for complications that make sense. What makes sense today is not what made sense 100 years ago when some of these complications were invented, so we need to always look to the future for new inventions and functions.”

Classicism is a const ant st ate of the ar tistic mind — James Joyce ( 1 8 8 2 — 1 9 4 1 )

USEFUL COMPLICATIONS

Easily one of the more beloved complexities on the wristwatch market today is the world time watch. These include GMT, Universal Time watches, multi-time-zone watches and world time zone watches that indicate the time in the world’s 24 key cities (some even offer time in more than 30 cities by including those places where time varies by minutes instead of hours). Often these mechanically complex watches sport a globe motif or a map on the dial, or show longitude lines for added allure. These watches offer information at a glance that today’s much-traveled watch consumer needs because they take the need to calculate time differences between two places out of the equation. Calendar watches, both annual and perpetual, are also useful complications. The annual calendar is a small complication with day/date information that must be handset to the appropriate date once a year at the end of February. These watches are affordable and yet helpful to the wearer. Their more complex sibling, the perpetual calendar, is able to mechanically track and change to the correct date at the end of every month — no matter how many days

are in that month. Generally, these watches also track leap years and can indicate much more information. One of the most elegant design elements of the calendar, particularly the perpetual calendar, is the moonphase indication. Some brands incorporate stunning moonphase disks into their timepieces that show the waxing and waning of the moon, typically surrounded by stars. Depending on the complexity of the moonphase method used in the watchmaking process, these indications can be accurate for more than a century to come, with one or two being accurate for hundreds of years. Some brands have made the moon phase the focal point of their calendar watch, offering engraved or etched faces, and precious gemstones such as opal or aventurine as the background. Moonphase watches represent not only an affinity for the infinity of space, but also a romance factor. In fact, according to Stéphane Belmont, Director of Creations and Marketing for JaegerLeCoultre, a moonphase watch is typically any brand’s best-selling timepiece.

GIR ARD - PERREGAUX LAUREATO TOURBILLON. AT THE TOP OF THE R ANGE OF THE NEW L AURE ATO MODELS, THE L AURE ATO TOURBILLON EMBODIES ALL THE HISTORIC E XPERTISE OF THE MANUFACTURE . ITS 45 MM CASE MADE OF TITANIUM AND STUDDED WITH GOLD, HOUSES THE GP09510 CALIBRE . THIS FINE WATCHMAKING MOVEMENT IS ENTIRELY PRODUCED BY THE CR AF TSMEN, MECHANICAL ENGINEERS, GEM SE T TERS AND POLISHERS OF THE MANUFACTURE IN L A CHAUX-DE-FONDS. IT EMUL ATES THE EMBLEMATIC STRUCTURE AND DESIGN OF THE TOURBILLONS BY GIR ARDPERREGAUX, WHICH HAS MADE AN UNMISTAK ABLE SIGNATURE OF THE ARROW-SHAPED GOLD BRIDGE, SKILLFULLY POLISHED AND ROUNDED OFF BY HAND.

APPEALING TO EMOTIONS VIA DESIGN

This love of the moon has also translated to a sub-set category of watches that appeals to the emotions: the astronomical watch. While one does not need to know the moon’s phases, or the position of the stars in their hemispheres, astronomical watches have gained a foothold once COMPLICATIONS WATCH YOUR TIME USA 61

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES

masterstroke It’s been 25 years since Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the Master Control line, an embodiment of classic aesthetics and the technical performance that illustrates the Manufacture’s movements. As the brand, known to collectors as “La Grande Maison”, remarks, this anniversary is an opportunity to present “a new expression of the line’s three emblematic functions, drawing on Jaeger-LeCoultre’s rich legacy of round watches to inspire the Master Control Date, the Master Chronograph, and the Master Geographic.” All three play into the hotright-now vintage trend, harking back to the days before quartz even existed. Blued and skeletonized baton hands with further touches of blue on the minute circle, the dial font, and the combination of circular satin-brushing around the outer section of the dial with an opaline finish in the center add to this delightfully retro appeal. The Master Control line was the first to benefit from the 1000 Hours Control in-house certification: a battery of tests to guarantee reliability. Over a six-week period, watches are tested in six positions to reproduce actual wearing conditions. Temperature variations, accidental impacts, power reserve capacity, water-resistance… “nothing is left to chance” when ensuring the future owner will be entirely satisfied with their watch. Jaeger-LeCoultre has chosen three useful functions for this commemorative collection. The in-house automatic movements are contained in 39-mm and 40-mm cases — in line with current preferences for a more discreet but no less reassuring presence on the wrist. Given the nature of their functions, Jaeger-LeCoultre has gone out of its way to make these watches easy to use on a daily basis. The second time zone display on the Master Geographic is a good example: an aperture at the bottom of the dial shows the names of 24 world cities, with the corresponding time clearly displayed in a subdial at 6 o’clock. This second time zone is set using the crown at 10 o’clock. Simple, efficient, and stylish to boot. C.R.

again. Many of today’s astronomical watches offer a wealth of information that runs the gamut from realistic portrayal of constellations in the northern or southern hemispheres, to sidereal time (star time) and equation of time scales to measure the difference between real solar time and mean solar time as seen by our 24-hour-day measurement. Some even feature orbs on the dial that represent the sun, moon and planets and rotate around the dial in a mesmerizing dance. These are typically very difficult watches to build, and many would not be possible without today’s advanced technology, micro-machine engineering and computer-aided cutting machines that not only help to miniaturize movement parts but also help to advance precision. This year Vacheron Constantin, the world’s oldest continually operating watch brand, unveiled one of the most complicated

wristwatches to date: Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600. The watch, which was five years in the making, boasts 23 functions and complexities, and offers civil, solar and sidereal time indications — each via its own separate gear train. In addition to perpetual calendar and moonphase, it displays the equation of time, time of sunrise and sunset, equinoxes and zodiac signs, a (patent-pending) Celestial chart with northern hemisphere indication of the Milky Way, and so much more. Skeletonized watches also tug at the heartstrings of many collectors. A skeletonized watch is one in which as much of the metal of every single movement part is removed, shaved away to the tiniest fraction of its original shape without compromising the strength of the piece. The components are then finely finished, engraved or edged, and then

assembled. Typically, a skeletonized watch is sandwiched between a sapphire crystal and caseback for see-through viewing of the movement. Sometimes though, watch brands use the mainplate as the background and the movement pieces are seen on top of it in all their glory. Either way, the result is an intriguing three-dimensional display of art and technology. Another important complication that is gaining foothold again is the return of the ultrathin watch. Certain brands, such as Piaget, did a great deal of pioneering in this field back in the 1950s and 1960s and have continued to create ultra-slim calibers, while other brands are putting their watchmaking ingenuity to the test in super-slim watches for the first time. There is quite a bit involved in making an ultra-thin watch. Generally, hundreds of mechanical parts must be miniaturized and slimmed down into a complete movement that is no thicker than a couple

of letter envelopes stacked on top of one another. While these watches look clean and sophisticated, they are not simple to build. In fact, many of the components in an ultraflat watch are so miniscule they can only be seen through a loupe — requiring the watchmakers in charge to work patiently day-by-day peering through a microscope to complete their work. Generally, ultra-slim watches are classically elegant in their final appeal, with beautifully colored dials and slim cases that look and feel fabulous on the wrist. This year, Bulgari beat Piaget’s ultra-slim record by a fraction of an inch. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic watch is the slimmest automatic on the market today. The 41 mm timepiece features a movement consisting of 130 parts and was several years in the making. The previous record holder for the thinnest automatic watch on the market was Piaget, whose movement was 2.35 mm thin and the case 5.25 mm thin.

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VII

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES

a bucolic celebration Dior Grand Soir, a collection of exceptional timepieces launched in 2010, pays homage to the history of the house. As Dior Horlogerie explains, “the watches in this collection combine creativity, a flair for color and the house’s refined, sophisticated vocabulary with watchmaking expertise in oscillating weights, bezels, calibres and finely wrought dials.” This unique approach to measuring time has already produced some remarkable pieces which go by the names of Kaleidiorscope, Frou-Frou, Origami and Pampille. Offering a new perspective on time, they deliver a visual performance that is only achievable with the highest mastery of creativity and craftsmanship. There is little need to add that, for the Paris house, timekeeping is all about symbiosis. “A watch is not just a watch. It is also clear proof of Dior’s expertise in couture and ready-to-wear. It is a sign, on the wrist, of a taste for beautiful things, for creative audacity, but also of the historical roots of a house founded in the mid-20th century.” This Dior spirit is perfectly captured in the unique new Dior Grand Soir Botanic pieces, which demonstrate its impressive know-how. This time, the design studio was inspired by the flowers and gardens that were so important to Christian Dior himself. “The dial comes to life in precious stones, mother-of-pearl and opals, or in petals of polished gold,” says the house. “Through the combination of shapes, the bouquet blooms beneath the crystal, drawing one’s attention to the very heart of these exceptional jewelry creations. The case studded with snow-set diamonds highlights the asymmetry and intoxicating beauty of the dial.” So as not to compromise the elegance of these pieces, they have been relieved of their crown, while the case-back evokes the precious corolla of this bucolic theme. The midnight blue fabric strap lends a subtle touch of modernity — the stamp of Dior. C.R.

VIII

JAEGER-LECOULTRE MASTER GEOGR APHIC. THE MASTER GEOGR APHIC IS THE EMBLEM-

I · JAEGER-LECOULTRE DUOMÈTRE SPHÉROTOURBILLON

III · VAN CLEEF & ARPELS MIDNIGHT NUIT LUMINEUSE. INS-

V · MANUFACTURE ROYALE ADN. THIS WATCH IS THE HEIR

VII · SEIKO ASTRON GPS SOLAR DUAL-TIME. POWERED BY

DIOR GR AND SOIR BOTANIC. HEIRS TO CHRISTIAN DIOR’S LOVE OF PL ANTS, THESE WATCH

ATIC MODEL OF THE MASTER CONTROL COLLECTION, PROVIDING TR AVELERS WITH A NOV-

BASED ON THE DUAL-WING PRINCIPLE USED IN ALL DU-

PIRED BY THE GLITTERING HEAVENS, THE BRAND DREAMED

TO THE BR AND’S GENE TIC CODE , A NE W E XPRESSION

SOL AR ENERGY, THE ASTRON USES THE GPS NE T WORK

CRE ATIONS TURN THE SPOTLIGHT ON FLOWERS THAT SEEM TO BE GROWING UNDER THE

EL WAY OF RE ADING THE SECOND TIME ZONE . THE APERTURE IN THE LOWER SECTION OF

O M È TR E WATC H ES , WH I C H C ONS I STS OF T WO I N DE-

OF LITERALLY ILLUMINATING THE DIAL USING NOTHING BUT

OF A VISION OF WATCHMAKING. AT ITS HEART, THE CALI-

TO D I S P L AY TH E T I M E W I TH ATO M I C PR EC I S I ON , AN D

GL ASS, PROMPTING A SHIF TING OF THE USUALLY CENTERED HANDS. THEIR DIALS, ADORNED

THE DIAL DISPL AYS THE NAMES OF 24 WORLD CITIES, REPRESENTING ALL THE TIME ZONES.

PENDENT MECHANISMS SHARING THE SAME REGUL ATING

MECHANICAL MEANS. THE SCENE IS PL AYED OUT AGAINST

BRE MR09 IS THE NINTH TO BE CREATED BY THE BR AND’S

ADJUSTS TO ANY TIME ZONE AT THE PRESS OF A PUSH-

WITH PRECIOUS STONES OF VARIOUS SHAPES AND SIZES, MOTHER-OF-PE ARL , OPALS AND

A CROWN SET AT 10 O’CLOCK ON THE CASE MAKES ADJUSTING THE INDICATOR OF THIS SEC-

ORGAN, THIS DESIGN INTRODUCES THE SPHÉROTOURBIL-

A BACKDROP OF AVENTURINE GL ASS, SPRINKLED WITH

WATCHMAKERS. THIS SPLENDID MECHANISM REGUL AT-

PIECE . THE DUAL-TIME CALIBRE ME ANS THAT A SECOND

POLISHED GOLD ELEMENTS, TESTIF Y TO AN E XCEP TIONAL JE WELRY SAVOIR-FAIRE . THE

OND TIME ZONE SIMPLICIT Y ITSELF. PAT TERNED IN A CIRCUL AR GUILLOCHÉ THAT CATCHES

LON. THIS IS A TOURBILLON WITH T WO A XES FE ATURING

DIAMOND STARS. AMONG THE DIFFERENT CONSTELL A-

ED BY A FLYING TOURBILLON DISPLAYS TWO TIME ZONES.

TIME ZONE WITH 24-HOUR INDICATION IS DISPL AYED IN

WHITE GOLD CASES COVERED IN A PAVÉ OF SNOW-SE T ROUND DIAMONDS PROVIDE A PRE-

LIGHT FROM A DIFFERENT SL ANT, THE INDICATOR CONTR ASTS ELEGANTLY WITH THE OTH-

A R ARE STOP-SECONDS FUNCTION.

TIONS, THAT OF THE UNICORN LIGHTS UP, AS IF BY MAGIC.

VI · LOUIS VUITTON TAMBOUR MOON FLYING TOURBILLON

A SUB-DIAL .

CIOUS FR AME FOR THESE UNIQUE FLOWERS THAT AT TACH TO THE WRIST WITH A BR ACE-

ER FINISHES ON THE DIAL .

I I · IWC DA VINCI TOURBILLON RETROGR ADE CHRONO -

IIII · ROGER DUBUIS E XCALIBUR SPIDER CARBON. THIS

POINÇON DE GENÈVE. LOUIS VUIT TON PRESENTS A NEW

V I I I · F R É D É R IQ U E CON S TANT CL ASSIC WORLDTIMER

LE T OF MIDNIGHT BLUE FABRIC. FAULTLESSLY CONSIDERED RIGHT DOWN TO THEIR MECH-

GR APH. THIS WATCH OFFERS AN ORIGINAL AND HARMO-

MODEL IS HOUSED I N A S KELE TON CASE OF TITAN I UM

ILLUSTR ATION OF ITS WATCHMAKING MASTERY. THE PIN-

MANUFACTURE. THIS TR AVEL WATCH HAS A 42 MM ROSE

ANISM, THESE WATCHES FE ATURE A QUARTZ MOVEMENT WITH ADJUSTMENT CORRECTOR .

NIOUS COMBINATION OF FEATURES: A FLYBACK CHRONO-

AND CARBON . E VEN MORE REM AR K AB LE , IT FE ATURES

NACLE OF COMPLICATIONS IS A MANUALLY WOUND FLYING

GO LD - P L ATED STA I N LES S STEEL CASE . A DEL I CATELY

GR APH WITH HOURS AND MINUTES TOTALISER IN A SINGLE

FOR THE FIRST TIME A MOVEMENT IN WHICH THE MAIN-

TOURBILLON STAMPED WITH THE POINÇON DE GENÈVE.

ENGR AVED WORLD MAP FEATURES ON THE MAINLY BROWN

12-HOUR COUNTER , A FLYING TOURBI LLON WITH STOP

PL ATE, BRIDGES AND UPPER SECTION OF THE TOURBIL-

WITH ITS HIGHLY ACCOMPLISHED MECHANISM AND CON-

DIAL , SURROUNDED BY THE NAMES OF 24 WORLD CITIES.

SYSTEM AND A RE TROGR ADE DATE DISPL AY.

LON CAGE ARE ALL-CARBON.

TEMPOR ARY STYLE, THIS WATCH IS A TRUE WORK OF ART.

THE DATE COMPLEMENTS THE WORLD TIME FUNCTION.

62 WATCH YOUR TIME USA

WATCH YOUR TIME USA 63

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES

Bulgari sets a new bar with a movement that is 2.23 mm thick while the final watch case measures just 5.15 mm in thickness. Additionally, Bulgari is able to offer the watch at a highly accessible retail price. CLASSICAL COMPLICATIONS GO BOLD

unique pieces Reporting on all that’s new in the watchmaking world, worldtempus.com has invited 16 leading brands to imagine a one-of-a-kind watch for its 16th anniversary — the only condition being to incorporate a number “16” on the bezel, dial or a subdial. Consulting with the WorldTempus team, most chose to put this anniversary number at 4 o’clock (16:00), although some opted to put their “16” at the 12 o’clock position, to visually echo the opposite numeral.

Of course, as mentioned, there is always a market for the ultra-high-end complications and there is no shortage of watch brands ready to comply. The difference we are witnessing in this arena, however, comes in the form of design. Typically high complications such as tourbillons that help improve precision or musically chiming watches, for instance, have been housed in classical round or tonneau cases. Recently however, top watch brands have bucked the classic trend and are encasing the most sophisticated complications in sporty looking cases made of high-tech materials and often in

three-dimensional designs. The tourbillon is one of the most revered watchmaking feats thanks to its continually moving escapement that compensates for errors in timekeeping due to the effects of gravity when the watch is in certain positions. As watchmakers advance technology, they have developed the ability to incorporate multiple tourbillon escapements in a single watch, often rotating at different speeds for even higher precision. These three-dimensional gyro type multi-axis tourbillon escapements have a space-age look to them all by themselves, so why not case them in something as extraordinary as they are to truly showcase them. Of course, showing complications in a classical design will never go out of style either, and this year many a brand did exactly that — leaving us with the knowledge that in the world of complicated watches there is something for everyone.

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES

the art of metamorphosis

A COLLECTOR’S DREAM

Only available at worldtempus.com, these one-off pieces cover all price segments, from CHF 2,800 to CHF 55,000, and are a unique opportunity to acquire a watch with the knowledge that no-one else in the world will wear the same one, and at the same price as the corresponding model in the regular collection (all are from the 2016 and 2017 collections of the brands taking part). As a further celebration of this milestone, WorldTempus is giving a Reuge musical box worth CHF 990 with the majority of these watches, all of which are delivered with a certificate testifying that they are absolutely unique. Who will you choose? Anonimo, Bell & Ross, Bulgari, Chopard, Eberhard & Co., Frédérique Constant, Graham, Hublot, Manufacture Contemporaine du Temps (MCT), Rebellion, TAG Heuer, Tiffany, Ulysse Nardin, Urban Jürgensen or Zenith? See them all in Collectors’ Corner, at worldtempus.com. B.L.

THE SHINSHU WATCH STUDIO, THE COMPANY’S MANUFACTURE, COMBINES CUT TING-EDGE TECHNOLOGY WITH TR ADITIONAL CR AF TSMANSHIP.

III

IIII

TAG HEUE R MONZ A CALIBRE 17. IN 1976, JACK HEUER DESIGNED A CHRONOGR APH TO

I · ROTONDE DE CARTIER MINUTE REPEATER MYSTERIOUS

I I I · H U B LOT BIG BANG UNICO GMT TITANIUM 5. TH E

CELEBR ATE NIKI L AUDA’S FIRST WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP TITLE WITH FERR ARI. THE SWISS

DOUBLE TOURBILLON. THIS WATCH REPRESENTS T WO

HUBLOT UNICO MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT IS EQUIPPED

WATCH C O M PANY WAS THEN OFF I C I A L TI M EK EEPER FOR SCUDER I A , AND I T WAS THE

ACHIEVEMENTS. FIRSTLY, A TECHNICAL ONE, BY HOUSING

WITH A NEW PATENTED PROPRIETARY MODULE WHICH EN-

FIRST TI ME THAT MONZ A HAD APPE ARED ON THE DIAL OF A WATCH . AT THAT TI ME , THE

448 COMPONENTS IN A CASE JUST 11.15 MM THICK. SECOND-

ABLES THE SECOND TIME ZONE TO BE UPDATED INSTANT-

WATCH WAS MARKEDLY DIFFERENT, YE T VERY ST YLISH. ITS CUSHION CASE WAS INSPIRED

LY, AESTHETICALLY, BY REVEALING THE RHYTHMICAL BEAT-

LY BY A PUSH-BUT TON, ALLOWING THE LOCAL TIME TO

BY A 1925 MODEL . AN ALL BL ACK CHRONOGR APH EQUIPPED WITH A PULSOME TER AND A

ING OF THE MINUTE REPEATER THROUGH THE OPENWORKED

BE RE AD E ASILY VIA THE CONVENTIONAL MAIN HAND OF

TACHYME TER SCALE, RED HANDS AND COUNTERS TO REFLECT ITS R ACING HERITAGE, THE

MECHANISM WITH ITS “MYSTERIOUS DOUBLE TOURBILLON”.

THE WATCH.

NEW DESIGN USHERED IN A BR AND NEW ER A IN THE HISTORY OF THIS MODEL .

I I · CHOPARD L.U.C LUNAR ONE. THIS PERPE TUAL CAL-

IIII · RICHARD MILLE RM 63-02 WORLD TIMER AUTOMATIC

ENDAR WITH L ARGE DATE AND MOON PHASES BR INGS

R I C H A R D M I L LE I S R ELE AS I N G A N E W WO R LD T I M ER

TOGE THER ALL OF THE COMPANY’S WATCHMAKING E X-

WATC H TRU E TO H I S P H I LOSO P HY TH AT A NY WATC H

PERTISE . A MEN’S CL ASSIC, IT RESPECTS THE RULES OF

SHOULD BE AS E ASY TO USE AS P OSSI B LE . TH IS WAS

SYM M E TRY FOR OP TI M AL R E ADAB I LIT Y. TH I S ELEGANT

ACHIE VED IN PART BY REMOVING THE NEED FOR A PUSH-

TIMEPIECE NOW COMES IN PL ATINUM.

ER WHEN USING THE TIME ZONE FUNCTION.

64 WATCH YOUR TIME USA

The exceptional growth of the Grand Seiko line since its international launch in 2010 has led Seiko’s leadership to make this name a brand in its own right, inspired by independence. It is a guaranteed success story! The exponential rise of Grand Seiko since its launch in Japan in 1960 encouraged Shinji Hattori, Seiko’s current chairman and CEO, to start distributing its products internationally in 2010. Once again, success came quickly. Following the annual doubling in sales of this high-end line, which has been available through export for seven years now, the parent company decided to consider its future. By giving Grand Seiko the image it deserves by raising its status from collection to brand, the Japanese company founded in 1881 in Tokyo by Kintaro Hattori has, once again, taken a decisive step forward.

all the stops to meet the expectations of connoisseurs of exceptional timepieces. Naturally, to reconnect with its history steeped in understated luxury, the company’s leadership drew inspiration from its roots. So the new Grand Seiko watch, no longer just a product but a fullfledged brand, reprises all of the aesthetic features of the first model launched in the 1960s. This piece, powered by a hand-wound mechanical calibre and available in three limited editions (136 pieces in platinum, 353 in yellow gold, 1,960 in steel without the star on the dial), comes in 38mm, a larger diameter than the original, more in line with current tastes. A magnificent collector’s piece, this fine watch with precision timekeeping proudly displays the Grand Seiko name in gothic lettering at 12 o’clock, and on the back, a lion that represents the company’s powerful presence.

MAJOR RELAUNCH OF THE LINE

ENRICHING ITS HERITAGE

Watch fanatics know that with Seiko, revolution always comes slowly. Identifying the core values that would lead this change therefore required in-depth analysis from its team. They pulled out

Existing as a brand obviously requires strong consideration of the future. That is why, this year, Grand Seiko is presenting different products to lay the foundations for its future range. There

is the watch that reworks the first “in-house” timepiece with more contemporary accents. Its inspired design, its 40.5 mm case in polished titanium, exclusive to Grand Seiko, and its automatic calibre with date indication, will doubtless appeal to many. Exclusivity comes in the form of the choice of movements and materials. These include the black ceramic of the Spring Drive GMT Chronograph, the centerpiece. Produced in a limited edition of 500 units, it celebrates the anniversary of this new-generation mechanical calibre, recognised by professionals as the most innovative and also the most accurate on the market today. Excellence can also be sporty, and so Grand Seiko has launched a limited edition of its first professional diver’s watch, water-resistant to 600 meters and powered by a high-frequency (5 Hz) in-house automatic calibre. Tradition and innovation go together in this new-look Grand Seiko, whose presence in the United States continues to expand. After New York and Miami, a third store is opening on one of the most prestigious shopping streets — Los Angeles’ Rodeo Drive —that will be dedicated solely to Grand Seiko. Vincent Daveau

GR AND SEIKO. SINCE ITS L AUNCH, THE GR AND SEIKO LINE HAS

GRAND SEIKO BLACK CERAMIC SPRING DRIVE GMT. THE EXCLUSIV-

GR AND SEIKO HI-BEAT 36000 PROFESSIONAL DIVER’S 600M. THIS

BEEN A GREAT SUCCESS, INITIALLY IN JAPAN, THEN INTERNATIONAL-

IT Y OF THE NEW GR AND SEIKO BR AND CAN BE SEEN IN THE CHOICE

YE AR , GR AND SEIKO IS PRESENTING DIFFERENT PRODUCTS THAT

LY FROM 2010. EPITOMIZING JAPANESE E XCELLENCE, THIS R ANGE

OF MOVEMENTS AND MATERIALS. THESE INCLUDE BL ACK CER AMIC,

ARE L AYING THE FOUNDATIONS FOR ITS FUTURE R ANGE . AS THE

HAS BEEN JUSTLY RECOGNIZED BY SWISS PROFESSIONALS, WHO

USED ON THE SPRING DRIVE CHRONOGR APH GMT. PRODUCED IN A

JAPANESE MANUFACTURE IS A PIONEER IN DIVER’S WATCHES, IT

SELECTED THE GR AND SEIKO HI-BE AT 36000 GMT FOR THE GR AND

LIMITED EDITION OF 500 PIECES, IT CELEBR ATES THE ANNIVERSARY

HAS UNVEILED THIS PROFESSIONAL MODEL, WATER-RESISTANT TO

PR IX D’HOR LOGER IE DE GENÈ VE IN 2014. TH IS MODEL REPRO -

OF THIS NEW-GENER ATION MECHANICAL CALIBRE, RECOGNIZED

600 METERS AND POWERED BY A HIGH-FREQUENCY (5 HERTZ) AU-

DUCES THE ORIGINAL GR AND SEIKO L AUNCHED 57 YE ARS AGO.

AS THE MOST INNOVATIVE AND MOST ACCUR ATE ON THE MARKET.

TOMATIC MANUFACTURE CALIBRE .

FOCUS WATCH YOUR TIME USA 65

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES

on the crest of a wave

exceptional timepieces; the brand is especially renowned for its astronomical complications. It is also a pioneer in the use of avant-garde materials, and was the first watchmaker to introduce silicon to its movements. One of the new watches in the collection that Ulysse Nardin showed at this year’s Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva was a flying tourbillon with a Grand Feu enamel dial. Driven by the UN-128 proprietary movement with a silicon balance spring and escapement, this Marine Tourbillon echoes the Marine Annual Calendar Chronometer whose annual calendar requires just one adjustment a year. A typi-

From its origins in the nineteenth century, Ulysse Nardin was renowned the world over for its marine chronometers, essential seafaring instruments built on innovation and precision. They have their ideal counterpart in the brand’s modern-day Marine collections. Ulysse Nardin’s symbol of a ship’s anchor flanked by the founder’s name is a fitting one. When the company was established in 1846, calculating longitude at sea was impossible without the ability to measure distance sailed using a marine chronometer. From the very beginning, Ulysse Nardin turned his attention to the development of complex pocket watches and chronometers. Such expertise earned the company more than 4,000 distinctions, and established Ulysse Nardin internationally as a specialist in marine chronometers. Until the 1970s, more than 10,000 such timepieces, used by 50 naval forces around the world, were produced at the Ulysse Nardin factory in Le Locle, Switzerland.

A BREATH OF FRESH AIR

Clearly, then, Ulysse Nardin remained true to its prestigious origins, a tradition it upholds still today — not just at the watchmaker’s bench but also on the water. The brand is a sponsor of Artemis Racing, which reached the Challenger Final in the recent 35th America’s Cup, one of the most coveted yachting races. Given its connections to sailing and the sea, the brand’s nautical collections are references in the field. They are the Marine Chronometer Manufacture, introduced in 1996, and the Marine Diver, launched two years later. The Marine Chronometer range reprises the hallmarks of these maritime instruments, with a generously sized case for excellent readability, a fluted bezel, a screw-locked crown for complete water-resistance, and solid lugs so the watch can sit firmly on the wrist. This year’s models further confirm this blend of classic styling and the latest techniques. Indeed, Ulysse Nardin is no stranger to innovation and has launched a number of truly

cal annual calendar complication requires some thirty components — never one to shirk a challenge, Ulysse Nardin succeeded in streamlining this mechanism to just seven components. Further proof, were it needed, of the brand’s technical capabilities, the Grand Deck Marine Tourbillon matches state-of-the-art horology with a nautical-inspired design. The dial is a marquetry of genuine wood to resemble the deck of a sailboat. The minutes hand takes the form of a mast’s boom, and is pulled by nanowires through four winches. Jumping hours in a double aperture and a one-minute tourbillon complete the picture. The latest addition to the collection is the Marine Torpilleur, named after the smaller ships whose agility and rapidity enabled them to outmaneuver much larger vessels. “This is a timepiece for contemporary explorers,” writes the brand, “made for a young, less formal age.” Which changes nothing of the fact that Ulysse Nardin is a brand destined for eternity. Christophe Roulet

U LYS S E N A R D I N GR AND DECK MAR INE TOUR BILLON. U LYS S E

ULYSSE NARDIN VINTAGE MARINE TORPILLEUR AND BOX. IN THE

ULYSSE NARDIN MARINE TORPILLEUR. THE TORPILLEUR IS POW-

NARDIN MERGES ADVANCED TECHNOLOGY, A SAILBOAT INSPIR A-

19 t h C EN T U RY, W H EN E X P LO R ER S ROA M ED T H E O C E A N S , T H E

ERED BY THE SELF-WINDING IN-HOUSE UN-118 MOVEMENT, AND

TION, AND INNOVATIVE MECHANICS IN A SINGLE WATCH. THE DIAL

POCKE T CHRONOME TER WAS THE CAP TAIN’S WATCH, A MARK OF

FEATURES THE SAME 60-HOUR POWER RESERVE AND PROPRIETARY

IS A GENUINE WOOD INL AY. ABOVE IT, THE UNPRECEDENTED TIME

HIS R ANK BOTH ON SHORE AND OFF. ULYSSE NARDIN’S POCKE T

SILICON ANCHOR ESCAPEMENT. THE MARINE TORPILLEUR ALSO

DISPL AY USES A HAND REPRESENTING A MAINSAIL BOOM TO SHOW

CHRONOMETERS WERE AMONG THE MOST COVETED — PRIZED BY

COMES COSC-CERTIFIED, AND MEE TS THE EQUALLY STRINGENT

THE MINUTES BY SWEEPING A GR ADUATED STRIP.

NAVAL OFFICERS AND MERCHANT CAP TAINS THE WORLD OVER .

STANDARDS THAT ALLOW IT TO PROUDLY BEAR THE ULYSSE NARDIN PERFORMANCE CERTIFICATE .

66 WATCH YOUR TIME USA FOCUS

510 Madison Avenue, New York, NY TEL: (212) 355 - 3718

130 NE 40th St, Miami, FL 33137 TEL: (786) 360 - 6869