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2017 Autumn & Winter
SPECIAL EDITION
3RD Issue
Tohoku
MCI (P) 112/12/2015
Explore Japan’s Rich Heritage in Tohoku’s Six Prefectures and Niigata
A World of Snow and Ice:
Worshipping the gods Ascended from the Heavens
The “DATE Culture”
Fostered by Masamune
Blessed with picturesque autumn foliage and abundant nature, enjoy Tohoku’s Autumn season with all five senses
www.wattention.com/tohoku-special
Tohoku Tourism Promotion Organization http://en.tohokukanko.jp
Discover Authentic Japan Located in the northeastern part of Japan’s Honshu island, Tohoku is surrounded by the Sea of Japan, the Pacific Ocean and the Tsugaru Strait. Consisting of seven prefectures — Aomori, Iwate, Miyagi, Akita, Yamagata and Fukushima and Niigata —. Despite progressive changes over the past centuries in Japan, Tohoku has retained a uniquely authentic feel by well preserving its traditional way of life and culture. With a history that can be traced back to the 7th century, Tohoku is truly a hidden gem for those who appreciate a relaxed holiday in a pure and bucolic environment. Each attraction has a story to tell and every dish features a history to please the palate and the soul.
Contents Wattention Tohoku 2017 Autumn, Winter 03-08 A World of Snow and Ice: Worshipping the gods Ascended from the Heavens
03, 04 Namahage Culture: Living with the Times 05, 06 Kamakura Matsuri (Snow Hut Festival) Means Much More than 07, 08 Copious Winter Festivals in Tohoku
09-10 The “DATE Culture” Fostered by Masamune 11-14 Blessed with picturesque autumn foliage and abundant nature, enjoy Tohoku’s Autumn season with all five senses
11 12 13 14
Apple Kingdom Golden Rice Ears Best Autumn Fruits to Enjoy Ocean Flavours
Publisher
Yasuko Suzuki / WATTENTION CO., LTD.
Associate Editor Yuka Suzuki
Editorial Team
Nancy Liu, Tabea Greuner, Stacey Bird Cuauhtemoc Velazquez
Writer
Wattention CO., ltd Kurashima Shibuya Bld. 2-3-8-401 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo, Japan 150-0002 Phone: 03-6418-5701 (main) 03-6418-5828 (editorial) Fax: 03-6862-6760 E-mail: info-tokyo@wattention.com HP: http://www.wattention.com
Helen Oon
Language Consultant Joseph. M. Shiodah
Visit the Website
Graphic Designer
"Exploration to the Deep North of Japan"
Kenji Ishida
Photographers
http://deepnorthjapan.org/
Chris Mollison, Michael Oon, Yama Funabashi
English
5 Oga
Cover Photo
Namahage Sedo Matsuri
Oga Peninsula Oga Peninsular Of Ogres and Onsens
Supported by
Tohoku Tourism Promotion Organization http://en.tohokukanko.jp East Japan Railway Company http://www.jreast.co.jp/e/
Model tour
Seasonal Highlights of the Tohoku Region
Natural Blessings in the Sanriku Coast, Reviving from the Earthquake
Scenic Beauty of the Japan Sea Shorelines
Hands-on Experience of Nature and Culture
Time Travel to the Past
Gourmet’s Paradise Tohoku
view more
You can design a personalized Tohoku trip on deepnorthjapan. org. Cho os e from various spots and restaurants and the p ro g ra m w ill g e n e ra te yo u r personal itinerary with a useful map. For those who like specific recommendations, there are plenty of model courses from which to choose.
Nature History Culture Cuisine
Explore Japan’s Rich Heritage in Tohoku’s Six Prefectures and Niigata
Nakatsu River Ravine (Fukushima Prefecture)
The ravine of Nakatsu River, which flows into Lake Akimoto of Urabandai Plateau, is a well-known destination for its autumn foliage. The "Bandai Azuma Lake Line," a scenic route through the forest, provides a breathtaking panorama view of Mt. Bandai and Lake Akimoto. Access: 45 min by car from Inawashiro Station ( JR Ban-etsu-West Line)
A World of Snow and Ice: Worshipping Gods Descended from the Heavens It is said that there are as many as eight million gods worshipped in Japan. Since ancient times, many people have believed that these gods inhabit everything, from earthly nature to the spirit world, with each one having a unique role. Even in the 21st century, some say these gods continue to live on in the Tohoku region.
Namahage Culture: Living with the Times In an agriculture society where people's daily lives depend on the weather, people have worshipped the gods at festivals to pray for crop prosperity, to ward off evil and to bring good fortune. What was once a ceremony solely to worship gods, however, has transformed into a traditional folklore event in modern times. The culture of Namahage, frightening the people of Oga city in Akita Prefecture, is a perfect example.
What is Namahage? Namahage ( なまはげ ) is a folk event unique to the Oga Peninsula in Oga city, Akita Prefecture. The word derives from combining the Japanese word for erythema (namomi) caused by idling next to a fire for a long period in order to avoid the winter cold, and the word for tearing off (hagu) the reddish lumps that can build on the skin as a result. The demons who warn those slacking off from work and their studies became known as Namahage. There are various theories as to the origin of these fearsome demons. here was a village afflicted by the evil doings of these five demons. To combat the problem, a deal was made: If the demons could build a thousand stone steps leading up to the Akagami Shrine Gosha-do in a single night, they would offer a girl in return but, if the demons failed, they had to leave the village forever. The five demons made it as far as the 999th step but, when they were about to set the last stone, the villagers interfered by imitated the morning crow of a rooster. Thinking it was a voice from heaven, the demons were taken by surprise and ran away from the village, never to
Namahage culture is a tradition unique to Oga, Akita Prefecture
return.
Namahage Folk Ritual Every year on December 31st, New Year's Eve, locals wrapped in knitted straw known as kede put on fearsome Namahage masks unique to their districts and walk around neighborhoods to visit homes. Warning children to work hard, to study and to listen to their parents, the Namahage shout things like, "Are there any crying children?" and "Are there any misbehaving children?". This frightening act comes from the wish that the children will earn good grades in school, succeed in society and thus be happy in
To entertain a Namahage is to "Namahage Gogo" (meal)
The Namahage Sedo Festival is held annually on the second Friday, Saturday and Sunday of February
the years to come. Each homeowner entertains the Namahage with sake and sailfin sandfish (caught off the coast of Akita Prefecture) while praising his spouse and children in order to protect them from the frightful visitor. Also, on January 3rd, the Sedo Festival is held at Manshin Shrine, which boasts a history of about 900 years. In the vicinity of the shrine, a fire is lit and omochi (pounded rice cakes, also known as goma mochi) are roasted; they are offered to the Namahage, descended from the mountaintop as the gods’ messenger, and a prayer is said for the village’s peace and crop prosperity. Combining the New Year’s Eve Namahage event and the Sedo Festival, locals have created Oga's Winter Festival, also known as the Namahage Sedo Festival. Every year, the event is held on the second Friday, Saturday and Sunday of February, satisfying any tourist's curiosity about Namahage culture. The highlight is when the Namahage ascends the mountain with torch in hand. The sight of the torch's flame illuminating the dark road against the bright white snow creates a truly mystical scene! 03
At the Namahage Sedo Festival, masks featuring each district are on full display Goshado 30-min bus ride from Oga Station on the JR Oga Line Shinzan Shrine 50-min bus ride from Hadachi Station on the JR Oga Line
The Event’s True Meaning Originall y, par ticipant s in the Namahage folk ritual would visit all households, However, with the changing times, now there are some families who do not welcome a visit from the Namahage. Some parents cannot stand to see their children being scolded, and some say that it is a cruel ritual of disciplinar y punishment against children. In this way, the tradition of this culture has been challenged repeatedly through the ages. Noboru Sugawara, a local elder, used to v isit households as a Namahage. In his opinion, shouting of the Namahage wards off evil and brings good fortune. People who are unaware of Namahage
Taking a photo with a Namahage
culture sometimes misunderstand the ritual as simply an act of chastising children, Sugawara says, and hence something threatening. This conveys the importance of understanding the true meaning behind Namahage culture instead of inheriting the tradition blindly, and its value should be handed down to future generations.
Cultural Revitalization through Mask Reproduction
American teacher Scott Camino dressed up as a Namahage on New Year's Eve
Ashizawa’s reproduced mask at the event
Traditional Namahage culture is also under threat due to the disappearance of masks that are unique to each district, as well as the fact that the ritual is no longer held in certain regions. In 2014, Ashizawa District's Youth Association gained attention for its efforts to reproduce its mask for the first time in 30 years. Yasuaki Takeda, a member of the Youth Association to produce masks.Using old photos in literature material, they confirmed the features of the mask, gathered the necessary materials and collaborated in the production, a process that took over two years. They wanted to create an exact replica of the original mask, but soon realized the challenges that came with the color formulation and preparation of the material. This led the Association to have a change of heart regarding
Ritual to start the festival
an exact replica, and they realized that by using current materials, the mask would truly reflect the current times. Scott Camio, an American teacher at Funagawa Daiichi Elementary School in Oga, has participated in the New Year's Eve ritual. As a non-Japanese, he said he was strongly moved by how local residents were struggling to preserve Namahage culture and their approach not only to pass it on to next generations, but also to improve it. In this way, the Namahage folk culture does not burn out in an instant like fireworks, but rather is deeply rooted in the lives of the local residents; they continue to explore how to find a balance between traditional culture and modernday life in order for the true meaning of Namahage culture to be handed down to future generations.
At the Namahage Museum, there is a variety of regional masks on display Hours: 8:30am - 5pm (open year-round) Access: From Akita Station, get off at Hadachi Station on the JR Oga Line. A 15-min drive by car from there.
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Kamakura Matsuri (Snow Hut Festival): More than Just Igloos! Kamakura festivals, often held on the day of the first full moon of a new year (around mid-February) to pray for household safety and a bumper grain harvest, are traditional events in the Tohoku region. And there is far more to the Akita Kamakura festivals than their ever-popular igloo-building activities!
Rokugo Kamakura: with a Bamboo Pole Fight! The Rokugo district in Akita Prefecture’s Misato town holds a Kamakura festival every February 11 to 15, featuring an array of activities such as writing down one’s wish on coloured paper, making igloos, participating in or watching a “fortune-telling” bamboo pole fight and making a bonfire to burn the wish papers. The Rokugo Kamakura Festival is a combination of a harvest ritual that dates back to the Yayoi period (300 BC–300 AD) and an ancient court custom of burning tenpitsu (wish paper) in a bonfire. The festival’s highlight is on the last day, when locals participate in a bamboo pole fight and burn the tenpitsu. The pole fight can be traced back to the Edo period (1603–1867) and the result of the competition is said to reveal the fortune of the coming year’s harvest. Participants
Wishes written on paper of five different colours are called tenpitsu
divide themselves into team North and team South and, legend has it, if team North wins, the town will be blessed with a good harvest; if team South wins, rice prices will go up due to shortage. As the fight involves an intense bonfire and the aggressive swinging of five-meter-long bamboo poles, it is considered one of the most dangerous and exciting festivals in Japan.
Akita’s Suwa Shrine is located opposite the venue of the bamboo pole fight
After two rounds (the entire fight lasts for three), the audience start to burn tenpitsu on the triangular-shaped, straw bonfire. Tradition has it that bathing in the fire’s smoke brings health and wellbeing. Also, it is said that the higher one’s tenpitsu flies in the flame, the better one’s handwriting gets by the year, resulting in better grades at school. Misato’s Rokugo District
10 min by train from Ômagari Station ( JR Akita Shinkansen)
Both children and adults write down their wishes
Miniature shrines made of snow can be seen everywhere Burning tenpitsu so that it reaches heaven
Kakunodate Kamakura: Swirling Balls of Fire! Hiburi Kamakura (The Fire and Snow Festival) Akita Prefecture’s Kakunodate is known as Tohoku’s “Little Kyoto” because many samurai residences are well preser ved there, giving the town a refined, elegant atmosphere. Every February 13 to 14, the town holds a Lunar New Year celebration called Hiburi Kamakura. The event starts with participants lighting bales of straw on fire in snow huts, and is followed by the burning of both tenpitsu and New Year’s decorations in a bonfire to pray for peace in the new year. The highlight of the festival is when participants grab the ends of the ropes tied to the flaming straw bales and whirl them in circular motions around themselves. This swirling ritual of blazing fireballs, traditionally thought to ward off diseases in the new year, adds a mystical aura to the snow-covered landscape. Kakunodate
Kakunodate’s Hiburi Kamakura is famous for participants swinging fireballs in wide circles
Get off at Kakunodate Station ( JR Akita Shinkansen)
Igloos become places of worship during the festival
Yokote Snow Festival, Kamakura・Bonden Matsuri In the city of Yokote in Akita Prefecture, two traditional snow festival events are held annually on the first full moon of the year.
Calm Snow Festival – ‘Kamakura’ The Yokote Kamakura Festival, held every February, has a history of 450 years, and features many igloos at various locations across the city and a burning ritual. Traditionally, in the area between the Yokote River and Yokote Castle (once a samurai residence), locals would worship the God of Kamakura by offering sake and homemade pounded rice cakes. They also burned New Year’s decorations and ropes in igloos to pray for children’s wellbeing. On the other side of the Yokote River, where commoners used to live, igloos were traditionally set up to honour the water gods next to the communal well, which supported the lives of the locals. Today, this tradition carries on as residents set up altars to worship the gods, while children often stay in the igloos enjoying grilled rice cakes and amazake, a traditional, sweet, non-alcoholic drink made from fermented rice. Yokote 20 min by train from Ômagari Station ( JR Akita Shinkansen Station, JR Ôu Line)
Active Snow Festival – ‘Bonden’ Bonden, a tool representing the descent of a divine spirit, are used in Shinto Men carrying a bonden to Asahiokayama Shrine
rituals. In the past, bonden were wooden sticks with many zigzag-shaped paper streamers tied to them. Today, bonden have evolved into 4.3-meter-high wooden
Votive Lantern Festival
poles with round bamboo baskets measuring 90 centimetres in diameter. They are accessorized with colourful strains of cloth, zigzag paper streamers and
The Votive Lantern Festival, also known as
various other decorations. Modern bonden sometimes weigh more than 30 kilos,
the Candle Festival, in Nigata’s Sanjo city
depending on the amount of creativity that goes into the making. During the
(famous for its cutlery production) has been
festival season, bonden are displayed around residential areas as a prayer for
held since the Edo period (1603-1867) to
safety and prosperity before being carried by a group of men to Asahiokayama
pray for prosperous business and the safe
Shrine on February 17.
travels for business owners. Visit the Sanjo Hachiman Shrine to see gigantic candles
Asahiokayama Shrine 15 min by bus from Yokote Station ( JR Ôu Line) until Ôsawa bus stop
weighing 30 to 50 kilos, with a diameter of
Yuzawa Inukko Matsuri (Dog Festival)
50 centimetres and a height of one meter!
On the second weekend of February, people make snow sculptures of dogs
Sanjo Tsubamesanjô Station (JR Jôetsu Shinkansen)
in Akita’s Yuzawa area to thank the canines for their loyalty. The festival, with a history of 400 years, also features altars made of snow, where participants offer rice cakes in the shape of dogs. Yuzawa 40 min by train from Ômagari Station (JR Ôu Line, JR Akita Shinkansen)
Enormous candles are set up to pray for business prosperity
Cute dog sculptures at the festival venue Staff wearing traditional outfits featuring an Akitaken (dog breed)
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Myriad Winter Festivals in Tohoku! Tohoku is covered in a thick blanket of white during winter, silently waiting for spring to rouse it from slumber. Despite the frosty landscape, though, many traditional festivals take place at this time of year in northern Japan. Learn more about local living and Japanese culture by reading all about these fascinating celebrations!
Hachinohe Enburi (Hachinohe Enburi Festival) https://hachinohe-kanko.com/english/10stories/hachinohe-enburi
Aomori’s Hachinohe city holds an enburi festival every year from February 17 to 20 to celebrate the arrival of spring. The Hachinohe Festival, with a history of 800 years, is said to have been invented by a farmer named Fujikuro. As the story goes, he promoted the substitution of singing and dancing for excessive drinking and quarrels during the New Year’s holiday. An enburi parade, led by a dancer representing Fujikuro, features people playing cymbals, drums and flutes and performing dances representing scenes of farm work such as planting, sowing and praying for a good harvest. There is another type of enburi dance, too, which is more bold and lively: Dancers knock the ground with wooden sticks in an effort to wake the Rice God from hibernation. Hachinohe
Get off at Hachinohe Station ( JR Tôhoku Shinkansen)
Hachinohe Enburi takes place February 17 to 20 in different corners of the city
The highlight of the event is the procession of dancers who just paid respects at Chojasanshinra Shrine
Oniwa Enburi takes place in a garden at night. Originally, it was performed only for powerful landlords and wealthy businesses owners.
Sominsai Naked Festival The Kokuseki Temple in Iwate’s Oshu city holds the Sominsai Naked Festival every February. With a history of more than 1,200 years, the festival features enthusiastic men wearing only fundoshi (thin loincloths). With torches in hand, the group starts from the temple at midnight and treks to the Ruritsubo River for cleansing, shouting “Jasso! Joyasa!” along the way. A bonfire shaped like a pound key is set up in front of the main hall of the temple. Participants can climb the 150-cm tall bonfire tower and bathe in the fire’s smoke, which some believe removes bad luck. Enduring harsh winds and ice-cold temperature, the men perform several other rituals to pray for health and a bountiful harvest. The long event ends with a competition for a “somin bag” (hemp sack), which is full of amulets and thought to be sacred. The person who seizes the bag is believed to receive good luck and happiness, and the competition lasts until early in the morning! Kokuseki-ji Temple
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20 min by taxi from Mizusawaesashi Station ( JR Tôhoku Shinkansen)
Participants climb the bonfire tower to bathe themselves in smoke to remove bad luck
Kishu Kasedori – Fire Prevention Festival On February 11, the annual Kishu Kasedori Festival is celebrated in Kaminoyama (Yamagata Prefecture). This unique and mysterious New Year’s ritual features people strolling through the streets dressed in kendai (plaited clothes made from rice straw, worn over the head and body like a giant conical hat). The costumes are shaped like cones so they grab the curious attention of crowds immediately. Wrapped in the enthusiastic atmosphere of this water-splashing event, the Kishu Kasedori Festival captivates everyone in this freezing area. It is said that Kasedori is the incarnation of the deity of abundant harvest and household safety. This festival has its roots in the beginning of the Edo Period (1603-1867) when local residents invited the deity down from the mountains to offer prayers for the new year. Participants acting as Kasedori dance in circles and raise their voices singing "ga-ga!" as they visit local shops and pray for prosperous business and fire protection. While doing so, they are splashed with water from the audience. In addition, locals tie towels around the conical hats and pray for one year of family peace and thriving business. People think of Kasedori as a bringer of good fortune. In fact, some say that women’s hair will become beautifully black after tying it with a rice straw fallen from the costume of the deity!
Kasedori dance around a bonfire while singing
Sendai Pageant of Starlight
Kishu Kasedori is a traditional festival in Kaminoyama, Yamagata Prefecture
Don’t miss the chance to take a photo of yourself with the Kasedori!
Splash the Kasedori with water and wish for family peace and prosperous business!
Aizu Painted Candle Festival
Ever y December, the beech trees on
Hirosaki Castle Yuki-Doro Festival (Snow Lantern Festival)
both sides of Aoba Street in Sendai
The Snow Lantern Festival, held in early
Fukushima’s Aizu area, boasts a history of
are decorated with more than 100,000 LED lights, giving the city a soft, warm glow at night. Sendai’s most popular winter festival, it is an absolute treat for the eyes! Sendai Get off at Sendai Station ( JR Tôhoku Shinkansen)
February at Hirosaki Castle, is one of the f ive big gest snow festivals in Tohoku, featuring 300 snow lanterns handcrafted by locals, large snow structures based on historical architecture and gigantic slides. Dim candlelight glowing in miniature igloos adds a tinge of winter romance to the peaceful atmosphere. Hirosaki 25-40 min by train from Shin-Aomori Station ( JR Ôu Line) until JR Hirosaki Station
Sendai’s winter illumination always attrac ts throngs of tourists
Hirosaki Castle is especially atmospheric during the Snow Lantern Festival
Painting candles, a traditional craft in over 500 years. The Aizu Painted Candle festival is held in early February each year in Aizuwakamatsu city’s Tsuruga Castle and Oyakuen Garden. A total of 10,000 painted candles decorate the venue and different corners of the city. Seeing them burning in the wind is like watching fireflies dance flittingly through the winter evening: mysterious and fascinating! Aizuwakamatsu 65 min by train from Kôriyama Station ( JR Ban-etsu-West Line)
Tsuruga Castle and painted candles work in harmony
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The “DATE Culture” Fostered by Masamune On the grounds of the Sendai Castle ruins is an imposing statue
More than Just a Warrior
of a samurai on horseback, wearing an eye patch and a crescent-
Born in a time when Japan was plagued by civil wars during the Sengoku period (1467-1590), Masamune rose quickly to become a tac t ful, ruthless and ambitious warrior from a young age, earning the name “Dokuganryu” (One-Eyed Dragon, as he had lost an eye to smallpox at a young age). In 1604, Tokugawa Ieyasu, the daimyo who completed the unification of Japan under central rule, awarded Masamune lordship of the Sendai Domain for his loyalty, making him the most powerful daimyo.
moon-bearing helmet as he overlooks Sendai, the Tohoku region’s largest, most vibrant city. This is not just any samurai, though: It is Date Masamune (1567-1636), the founder of Sendai and the most powerful daimyo (feudal lord) of the Tohoku region. From manga (comic books), TV dramas and games, he continues to be one of Japan's most popular historical figures. The legendary stories of Masamune’s battle, betrayal, revenge and survival continue to capture the imaginations of all, but what some may not know is the vital influence he had on Tohoku culture in general.
Despite his fearsome reputation, Masamune was an educated man and a patron of the arts, Wanting Sendai to rival the Kyoto-Osaka region, he worked to expand trade and beautify the area. Tohoku, once a remote part of Japan, soon prospered as a popular destination for tourism, trade and prosperity. While Masamune embraced tradition, he also saw the need to embrace foreigners, especially their technology and knowledge. He encouraged foreigners to visit his region and even dispatched an embassy on board the San Juan Bautista, (a ship built with European techniques) to meet the Pope, while also visiting the Philippines, Spain and Mexico. In addition, Masamune had a distinct philosophy about hospitality that reflected his deep appreciation for the arts. Having a passion for food, when entertaining guests he personally created the menu, tasted the food and presented it, showing visitors the utmost care and attention with cuisine reflecting his sense of aesthetics, inspired by the Japanese tea ceremony and Noh (classical musical dramas). Far more than a typical general, Masamune expressed himself as a highly sophisticated and uniquely cultured individual. M a s a m u n e' s c u l t u r a l k n o w l e d ge , a s w e l l a s h i s governing policies, gave birth to the “DATE Culture” that spread throughout the castle town and eventually to the more distant Tohoku communities. But what exactly is ”DATE Culture”? It is a glamourous culture that respects the richness of tradition while embracing new ideas; in addition, it appreciates the highest beauty and perfection while remaining modest. Visitors cannot help but notice these principles on display as they explore Tohoku's traditional artwork, cuisine and way of life in general. http://datebunka.jp/tw/
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Statue of Date Masamune overlooking the city of Sendai from the ruins of Sendai Castle, which is located on a plateau.
For Masamune-related spots, visit:
Aoba Castle Ruins After becoming Sendai's first feudal lord in 1603, Date Masamune build Sendai Castle on Mt. Aoba, which overlooks the city. Currently, only the stone walls remain, but it continues to be a symbol of Sendai City. Hours: 9am – 5pm (Until 4pm from early Nov to Mar) Admission ends 30min before closing time. Open yearround. Admission: 700 yen
Zuihoden Mausoleum
Sendai City Museum
Hours: 9am – 4:30pm (Until 4pm from Dec to Jan) Admission: 550 yen
Hours: 9am – 4:45pm (Last entry 4:15pm) Closed: Mondays, days following national holidays and Dec 28 – Jan 4. Also closed for renovations from Dec 28, 2017 – Mar 31, 2018. Admission: 460 yen
Experiencing Date Culture Today Sendai Tansu: A Treasured Craft Tansu were originally used as mobile pieces of furniture in which merchants and samurai could keep their personal items. Made from zelkova Japanese elm and chestnut, each tansu is painstakingly crafted, finished with kijiro-urushi (uncoloured) lacquer and embellished with embossed metal fittings of dragons, Chinese lions or peonies. At age 80, Eikichi Yaegashi is one of Sendai's most respected tansu craftsman, specializing in the creation of the decorative metal fittings. As the fourth generation in his family to continue the craft's tradition, he creates striking pieces of art that truly capture the undeniable beauty of“DATE Culture.”
A variety of metal fittings decorate the tansu.
Eikichi Yaegashi is a famous tansu craftsman who specializes in metal fittings.
The traditional Sendai Tansu were originally used for merchants and samurai to keep their personal items.
Shokeikaku: Food Culture Derived from Masamune's Aesthetics Once the residence of the Date clan, who relocated here after having to relinquish their domain in 1867 due to the Meiji Restoration, this two-storey wooden bungalow is now a popular restaurant and venue for special occasions. Overlooking a splendid Japanese garden, it features local cuisine presented in adorable, miniature Sendai tansu (chests of drawers). Other highlights are the artefacts and heirlooms on display, including Masamune’s iconic black suit of armour and helmet with the golden crescent moon.
Shokeikaku is the former residence of the Date clan.
143-3, Hitokita-nishi, Taihaku-ku, Sendai Taihaku-ku, Miyagi
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Blessed with picturesque autumn foliage and abundant nature, enjoy Tohoku’s autumn season with all five senses Tohoku’s autumn is short and, as autumn foliage comes to an end, the snow season follows immediately. During this short period of time, the drastic change of nature is stunningly beautiful. Golden rice ears hang their heads on the paddy fields and mountains are coloured in vibrant reds and yellows. Grounds look like carpets of yellow maple leaves and silvery shimmering salmon swim up the river to lay their eggs. Make your way to Tohoku
Hirosaki’s apple pies
during its most bountiful time, the harvest season!
Apple Kingdom
Mount Iwaki, also called “Tsugaru Fuji” (Tsugaru describes the western region of Aomori Prefecture), is in Aomori, Honshu’s nor thernmost prefecture. Autumn is the best season to enjoy a variety of colours at Oirase Mountain Stream and Lake Towada, as well as the lush red apples growing in abundance at the foot of the mountain; Japanese apples are famous for being quite large and flawless in taste and texture. The cultivation of apples in Aomori began at the start of the Meiji Restoration by unemployed samurai. In 1875, the region, which had not been used for apple cultivation before, received three apple saplings from the West. Samurai, who had lost their social status, exchanged their katana (single-edged swords) with pairs of shears and refined the technique of sentei (pruning). Hence, Aomori became Japan's best area for producing apples. These ripened fruits, which survive harsh climate conditions such as heavy snow and drastic temperature differences between day and night, offer a unique harmony between sweet and sour, giving them an especially rich flavour. Hirosaki, the pioneer cit y for apple production, features about 50 shops which produce apple pies. Growing popularity among the tourists are the “Apple Pie Map,” showing all the shops selling this delicacy, as well as the baking event where an apple pie with the diameter of three meters is made. Including the production of apple juice and cider, this fruit plays an essential part in Aomori’s culture. After enjoying the picturesque scenes of autumn colours at Oirase Mountain Stream, Lake Towada and from the Hakkoda Ropeway, set off to Hirosaki and get a taste of Aomori’s local speciality!
An apple orchard in front of Mount Iwaki
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View of Hakkoda Mountain Range from Towada’s water-lily pond
Oirase Mountain Stream’s Choshi-Otaki Waterfall
Golden Rice Ears When going to a Japanese supermarket, you might be surprised by the many different types of rice on sale. “Japonica rice” is well-known for its stickiness and sweetness. The Tohoku region has long been a popular rice-producing area and is famous for its delicious, high-quality varieties. Production of this kind of unique rice is possible due to weather conditions. During winter, Tohoku’s prefectures are covered by tremendous snowfalls, and the ones along the coast Rice ears of the Shonai Plain
(Niigata, Akita and Yamagata) are exposed to the harsh climatic conditions of the sea. When spring approaches, snowmelt water flows into the big rivers and irrigates the large, open paddy fields. Due to the foehn phenomenon, in which dry wind blows down the mountains, the mid-day temperature is very high, but it cools down substantially in the evening. The combination of these factors makes Tohoku ideal for rice production. Since a long time ago, the Shonai Plain in Sakata has been a primary storage area for rice and the warehouse “Sankyo Soko,” built there in 1893, is still in use.
North Tohoku’s unique scenery of rice plants
In October, as harvest season draws near, golden rice ears rustle in the wind and Japan’s most representative scenery spreads throughout the region. To round up your autumn trip to Tohoku, catch a glimpse of the charming views from the local train or shinkansen (bullet train). For many Japanese, the region offers another special activity to look forward to: the tasting of “new rice.” In rice-producing areas, you can find diverse cuisine using these rounded grains of white gold. Akita, for example, is famous for kiritanpo, a dish in which freshly cooked rice is smashed, pressed around a skewer made of Akita cedar and grilled.
“Sankyo Soko” warehouse (Sakata, Yamagata Prefecture) 2-hr ride from Niigata Station ( JR Jôetsu Shinkansen) until Sakata Station ( JR Uetsu Line). From there it is another 5-min ride by car.
It is a traditional meal served with a hotpot, which includes chicken and vegetables. Kiritanpo is sold throughout the year in local restaurants and souvenir shops, but it is especially enjoyable to eat during harvest season. Rice Paddy Art The villagers of Aomori’s Inakadate village turn rice paddies into canvas and paint rice shoots into different colours every year. In 2017, they used seven colours and 13 strains of rice, as well as various art and measuring techniques, to create an impeccable, highly detailed design. Although other cities try to imitate their effort, Inakadate’s rice paddy art remains the best in quality and the finest in design.
Rice Paddy Art Exhibition 20-min ride from Hirosaki Station (Konan Tetsudo Railway) until Tamboâto Station Niigata’s golden shimmering fields
Polished “new rice”
Kiritanpo hotpot by the fireside
12
Best Autumn Fruits to Enjoy
Make your own parfait at Takahashi Fruit Land (Kaminoyama, Yamagata Prefecture)
Sample some of Tohoku’s best autumn fruits by taking a train that travels through a forest of autumn colours! Get off at Furukawa Station on the Tôhoku Shinkansen and take the Rikû-East Line. This runs through Naruko, a hot spring village with more than 1,000 years of history. Naruko has a cluster of five hot springs—Naruko, East Naruko, Nakayamadaira, Kawatabi and Onikobe—and is home to Naruko Gorge, the Tohoku region’s most scenic of gorges. From Naruko-Onsen Station, the train travels along the Araogawa River before climbing up a slow slope toward
Workshop for dried persimmons (Takahashi Fruit Land)
Naruko Gorge, where colourful foliage decorates rocky cliffs in autumn. This is absolutely one of the best scenic train trips in Japan! (Foliage viewing season is from late October to early November.) Shinjô is the last station on the Rikû-East Line. After foliage viewing, why not take the shinkansen to Yamagata Prefecture for a feast of seasonal fruits? Known as “the Fruits Kingdom,” Yamagata is the number one producer of cherries and pears in Japan. Apples, grapes and many other juicy fruits are also grown here. Tourists can visit orchards, hand pick grapes (early September to late October) and pears (October), and even have a try at making dried persimmons. Tourist orchards can be found in Yamagata’s Kaminoyama and Tendo cities.
Autumn foliage at Yama-dera Temple 20-min ride from Yamagata Station ( JR Yamagata Shinkansen) until Yamadera Station ( JR Senzan Line)
Another must-visit spot is Risshaku-ji. The temple, also called Yama-dera, consists of 30 big and small halls. A moss-covered stone staircase starts from the foot of the mountain and goes all the way to the majestic halls and temples on rough, stony cliffs. The heavenly landscape, coupled with red leaves, looks just like a painting on a Japanese wooden screen. Murakami Get off at Kaminoyama-Onsen Station ( JR Yamagata Shinkansen)
In Yamagata, you can enjoy pear picking (mid-September until end of October)
View of Naruko Gorge
Ocean Flavours
Various salmon dishes (grilled with salt, pickled in sake lees or smoked)
Autumn is full of activities in Tohoku! It is the time of year when locals are busy preserving food for the long, harsh winter ahead, and visitors are welcome to have a taste during this culinary tradition. Tsuruoka city’s Yura, the biggest fishing port in Yamagata Prefecture, has developed many ways to preserve its great salmon catches, one of which is covering the fish in distillers’ grains and miso paste. Besides eating it raw and with sushi, you can also grill it with salt, marinate it in soy sauce or boil it in sweet Japanese sauce. Niigata’s Murakami city has enjoyed fame for its salmon cuisine since the
Salmon hanging from the eaves to expose them to the cold sea breeze (Murakami, Niigata Prefecture)
Edo period (1603-1867). It is customary to hang salt-preserved salmon from the eaves of houses in early December. Gusts of cold winter wind dry off the moisture in the salted salmon, giving it a rich, sophisticated texture. The sight of thousands of salmon hanging from traditional Japanese houses in winter is as fascinating as it can get! Japanese sandfish is also a common winter treat. The fish, also referred to as “God fish” on the Oga Peninsula, swims to Akita Prefecture for spawning in December. Salt-preserved Japanese sandfish is an important source of protein during winter. People in Akita grill it with salt, cook it in a hot pot and eat it with seaweed paper. Trying this treat is a must when you visit Tohoku! Murakami
1-hr ride from Niigata Station ( JR Jôetsu Shinkansen) until Murakami Station ( JR Uetsu Line)
An experienced cook busy salting (Murakami, Niigata Prefecture)
Fish market in Sakata
View of the Sea of Japan during autumn from Oga Peninsula
Sailfin sandfish dish
14
Start your journey from these 16 locations to experience unspoiled nature, time-honored culture and century old traditon of Japan. Japan Heritage
Hokkaido A B C D
http://www.bunka.go.jp/seisaku/bunkazai/nihon_ isan/pdf/nihon_isan_pamphlet_english.pdf
Shin-Hakodate Hokuto Stn.
Namahage Sedo Matsuri Rokugou Kamakura / Yokote Yuki Matsuri (Bonten,Kamakura) / Kakunodate Hiburi Kamakura/Yuzawa Inukko Matsuri
Oirase
1. Hirosaki: 30 minutes from Tohoku Shinkansen Shin-Aomori
Hachinohe Enburi Matsuri
Station by Tsugaru Limited Express See → P8, 11
Hirosaki Castle Yukidourou Matsuri Aomori Airport
1
D
Mt.Moriyoshi
Hirosaki Stn.
6
Akita Stn.
B
4
5. Oga: 60 minutes from Akita Shinkansen Akita Station to Shin-hanamaki Stn.
E
8 12
Tsuruoka Stn.
Ura-Bandai
I
F Sendai Airport
6. Kakunodate / Lake Tazawa: 50 minutes from Tohoku Shinnkansen Morrioka Station or Akita Shinkansen Akita Station by Akita Shinnkansen See → P5, 6
7. Kamaishi / Tono: 90 minutes from Tohoku Shinkansen ShinHanamaki Station to Kamaishi Station by Local Line / 60 minutes from Shin-hanamaki Stastion to Tono Station by Local Line.
8. Hiraizumi: 8 minutes from Tohoku Shinkansen Ichinoseki
Furukawa Stn.
13 14
7
Sanriku Coast
9
Ichinoseki Stn.
Yamagata G Stn.
Hadachi Station by Local Line See → P3, 4
Morioka Stn.
Mt. Haguro
16
Station by JR Gono Line.
4. Hachimantai: 60 minutes from Tohoku Shinkansen Morioka
Kakunodate Stn.
11
3. Shirakami Sanchi: 2 hours 40 minutes from JR Hirosaki
Station to Appi Kogen Station, 1 hour 10 minutes from Tohoku Shinnkansen Morioka Station to the top of Hachimantai by bus
10
Murakami Stn.
Koiwai Farm
Hachinohe Stn.
5
A
Kakunodate's Samurai Residences
Tohoku Shinkansen Shin-Aomori Station by JR bus or 2 hours 15minutes from Hachinohe Station by JR bus See → P11
C
2
3
2. Hakkoda / Lake Towada / Oirase: 2hours 15 minutes from
Shin-Aomori Stn.
Station to Hiraizumi Station by Tohoku Main Line See → P7
Miyagi Zao Fox Village
Sendai Stn.
9. Kesennuma: 80 minutes from Tohoku Shinkansen Ichinoseki Station to Kesennuma Station by Local Line
10. Chokai: 45 minutes from Akita Shinkansen Akita Station to Ugo-Honjo Station by Local Line
Niigata Stn.
H
Fukushima Stn.
15
11. Sakata / Tsuruoka / Dewasanzan: 1 hours 50 minutes
from Joetsu Shinkasen Niigata Station to Tsuruoka Station by Local Line. /35minutes fromTsuruoka Station to Sakata Station by Local Line. /50minutes from Tsuruoka Station to Dewasanzan (Hagurosan) by bus. See → P12
Koriyama Stn.
Aomori-ken Akita-ken Iwate-ken
E F G H I
Shinkansen Local Line Tohoku Main Line Tsugaru Limited Express Bus Tokyo Stn.
For more amazing photos and articles check out
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Yamagata-ken Miyagi-ken
Kishu Kasedori
Fukushima-ken
Aizu Painted Candle Festival
Niigata-ken
Nigata Sanjyo Kentousai
Tokyo
12. Naruko: 50 minutes from Tohoku Shinkansen Furukawa
Station to Naruko Onsen Station by Local Line See → P13
13. Sendai / Matsushima: 90 minutes from Tohoku Shinkansen
Sendai Station to Matushima Station by Local Line See → P8-10
14. Zao / Yamadera: 40 minutes from Yamagata Shinkansen Yamagata Station to Zao Onsen by bus See → P13
15. Aizu / Kitakata / Bandai / Ouchi-juku: 65 minutes from Tohoku Shinkansen Koriyama Station to Aizuwakamatsu Station by Local Line See → P1, 2 P8, 9
16. Niigata / Murakami: 60 minutes from Joetsu Shinkansen Niigata Station See → P6, 12
www.wattention.com/tohoku-special
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The information above is current as of June 2017.