WAttention Malaysia vol 5 by WAttention

Malaysia Edition - Tokyo - Taiwan - Singapore - Los Angeles - Thailand

Wonderland Japan

TA K E FREE 2013 Summer Issue VOL.5

ラーメン大全

ALL ABOUT

RAMEN

IT ALL STARTS IN GINZA MYSTERIOUS JAPAN STORY 1 – GET CHARGED UP: TOKYO POWER SPOT

HOME TREAT VOL.1 PP 18029/03/2013(033318)

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P so d a d ti a w m m a th b fo

鯉よっりぶ通をな

o c in th c it li c a th is ti c e ti n m c b 2

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KOYOMI.in

In Ha rmony w it h t he Se a sons Tango no Sekku - Boys Day Festival May 5 text & coordination/ Rieko Ido, photo/ Nobuaki Tanaka 文とスタイリング＝井戸理恵子、写真＝田中伸明

端午の節供

鯉のぼりや武者人形が飾られるようになったのは武家社会になってから。菖蒲が「あやめ」(機織りに秀でた女性)以外に「しょうぶ」(尚武:武芸に秀でた男性)に通じるところから、男の子の成長を祈る節供として祝われるようになりました。

こよみを楽しむ

People of the samurai society began setting up decorative carp streamers and samurai warrior dolls. From the correlation between the ayame, a woman who excels in we av i n g, a n d s h o b u, a m a n w h o exc e l s i n t h e m a r ti a l a r ts, w h i c h a re associated with the iris, the ritual came to be celebrated as an event to pray for the growth of boys.

月5日

Samurai warrior doll, 105,000 Yen, Noritake Ginza store

In the old lunar calendar, May (end of May to early July in the Gregorian calendar) coincides with the rainy season in Japan. Long periods of rain often cool the body, making it easy for the physical condition to deteriorate. In the old days, it had also been a period when children s lives were often lost. In the old lunar calendar, the first day of May, which is read as hiru , indicates the time of day when the sun rises high and the temperature is warm. This indicates a southern direction, so during this period of cold rain, ceremonies were held on this day when energy levels had been believed to be relatively high, in prayer that children would not lose their lives. People would look for medicinal herbs during the daytime and consume them, or make ornamental scent bags and hang them outside their houses

in prayer that illness would not befall their children, which are the origins of Tango no Sekku , or Boys Day. In modern times, this has become a seasonal festival for boys and is generally held on the 5th of May on the Gregorian calendar, but it had also originally been a ritual to pray for the longevity of girls and to cleanse the bodies of young riceplanting girls atop straw, purifying them with iris leaves, based on the belief that there must be no impurity in welcoming the Gods of the rice fields. 旧暦の５月（新暦では５月下旬から７月上旬）は、日本はちょうど梅雨の時期です。長雨が続くと身体が冷えて体調を崩しやすくなるもの。昔は子供の命が多くとられる時期でもありました。そこで旧暦５月の最初の午の日には、午は「ひる」と読むことから、太陽が高く温かい時間と方角でいえば温かい場所としての南を指すので、冷たい雨の降る時期にあって比較的

エネルギーが強いと考えられた「午の日」に子供が命を落とさないようにとの願いを込めた儀式がおこなわれてきました。午の日の午の時間に薬効の強い薬草を求め、食し、また、薬玉を作って軒先に掛けては病にかからないようにと願った、それが「端午」の由来です。現在端午は男の子の節供とされ、一般的に新暦の５月５日に行われていますが、本来は女の子の延命を願い、稲を植える早乙女が田の神様を迎える際に穢れがあってはならないと、菰の上で身をキレイにし、菖蒲の葉で祓う儀式でもありました。

Rieko Ido Conducting research into Japanese customs and knowledge from ancient times, and applying technical analysis of these findings to modern lifestyle. Kokugakuin University graduate. Teaches at Tama Art University.

井戸理恵子國學院大學卒業。日本古来の知見を工学的に検証し次世代に繋がる「技術」を模索、現代の衣食住を発展させる提案をしている。多摩美術大学非常勤講師。

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Japanese etiquette for visitors <11>

Sakura

How to Be a

Kumata

When you travel, you tend to meet different kinds of people and be in touch with other cultures, but do you know about their local etiquette? Miss Wattention, SAKURA, and her little bear KUMATA will show you how to enjoy Japan's unique culture in an authentic way. You won't feel embarrassed if you know basic their manners and etiquette. Sonoko Azuma Illustrator & Manga Artist She started her career working for one of the most established manga magazines in Japan. Since then, her artworks have been widely featured in publications and websites.

Let’s go to a sushi restaurant! 寿司屋へ行こう

How do I order? 注文

Have you been avoiding authentic sushi restaurants because it seems too formal? If you know the basic manner of how to order and eat sushi, you will definitely enjoy the experience without feeling lost. As restaurants welcome customers with good manners, you may be able to receive better hospitality from them too.

If it is not on the menu, you can order directly from the sushi chef. As there is no particular course, you can order anything you want. However, if you want to enjoy a variation of flavors, try ordering items with a light taste, then gradually shift to ones with a stronger taste. If you order them backwards, the stronger taste will kill the flavor of the lighter taste. Nevertheless, if you want to switch from the strong to the light, refresh your mouth first with some pickled ginger or green tea. Usually sushi is served two pieces, or “kan”, as one set. If you only need one piece, or “ikkan (one kan)”, you will need to tell the chef beforehand. Eat as soon as it is served, as freshness and serving time are the keys to eating sushi.

How to pick up sushi

寿司の食べ方

You can pick up sushi either with chopsticks or fingers. Nigiri (hand-formed sushi) with toppings should not be broken when it is picked; not only does not look good, it is more difficult to eat. The neat way to fingerpick sushi is to put a thumb on the top, the index finger on the side, and hold the bottom with the middle finger. Likewise, you should not simply lift the sushi between your chopsticks; first, put the left chopstick on top of the sushi to hold it lightly, then tilt it a bit to grip the bottom of the sushi with your right chopstick.

How to dip in soy sauce 醤油のつけ方

Usually, only the surface of toppings, or “neta”, is dipped in soy sauce. You don’t need wasabi since it is already included, unless you ordered sushi without wasabi. Gunkan maki – or naval ship-shaped sushi – with sea urchin (uni) or salmon roe (ikura) on top and wrapped at the side with seaweed (nori) should not be tilted as the toppings will fall off. Use a sliced cucumber or pickled ginger to brush the soy sauce onto the toppings instead. If you have ordered nama chirashi (unrolled sushi in a bowl), pick some toppings, dip them into soy sauce, then return them to the bowl. Toppings like unagi (freshwater eel) and anago (conger eel) are already flavored, thus do not require any soy sauce.

Tips Interesting sushi terms There are some interesting terms used almost exclusively at sushi restaurants, such as “agari” for green tea and “murasaki” for soy sauce. Let’s learn some of these generally-used sushi terms! ▪Agari Green tea. The shorter version of “agari (just done) bana (flower)”, it’s a fancy way to call sencha, or green tea, that is just brewed. ▪Murasaki Soy sauce. Named after the color of soy sauce, which is dark purple (murasaki). ▪Gari Sweet pickled ginger. Short for “gari gari”, the onomatopoeia of the crunchy sound made when it is eaten.

寿司豆知識

▪Shari Rice. Named after the Sanskrit word “Sharia” (the bone of Buddha) because of its look as well as its importance as the staple food for the Japanese. ▪Kappa maki Cucumber roll. Named after the “kappa” – Japanese goblins believed to live in rivers and ponds whose favorite food is cucumber. ▪Tekka maki Tuna roll. Tekka refers to Tekka-ba, the old term for gambling dens. In old days, the tekka maki was loved by gamblers because eating it didn’t interrupt their games.

Tekka maki

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ALL ABOU You probably already know ramen is one of the most representative foods of Japan, though you may not be familiar with the history and all the variations of it. In this issue of WAttention, we speak with ramen expert, Mr. Ishiyama, to bring you the ins and outs of ramen.

- Ramen Expert Mr. Ishiyama launched a ramen club while studying in Kokugakuin University. From nor th to sou th, Hok k a id o to O k in awa, he has eaten at more than 6,000 ramen shops across all 47 prefectures in Japan. Nowadays he visits ramen shops at the rate of 2 per day for research and reviews. Apart from writing ramen reviews for magazines, Mr. Ishiyama is also the author of a series of ramen books and is a regular cast member of several TV shows. His ramen career also involves developing new types of instant noodles and providing business consultation for the ramen industr y. To date, he has interviewed more than 1,500 ramen shops. In this issue of WAttention, we talk with Mr. Ishiyama and introduce you to the world of ramen, including its history, styles, and some of the hottest ramen shops in Japan.

Salt flavor is the oldest among all variations. Its long history can be seen in Hakodate, one of the first few ports opened to foreign trade. In Hakodate, if you order a ramen, you will be served a shio ramen without asking. Since salt is light in flavor, you get to taste the true essence of the soup.

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A conventional style of ramen in which the quintessential Japanese condiment, soy sauce, is added to the soup stock. Since ramen originally came from China during the Meiji period as an exotic food, its blending with soy sauce helped to popularize ramen among Japanese people. In fact, gyokai and tonkotsu ramen often contain soy sauce as well.

A ra as ra S w fe la T th be ad an

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UTR AMEN The History of Ramen The history of ramen began with the inflow of Chinese culture to Japan during the Meiji Restoration. Originating from China, “ramen” was influenced by traditional Japanese condiments such as soy sauce and soybean paste, and has since developed to become one of Japan’s best-known foods. Following the opening of the country by the Tokugawa Shogunate, Chinatowns were developed in various parts of the country, including Yokohama, Hakodate and Kobe, and along with them came Chinese noodles. Back then, when Japanese people talked about noodles, they usually referred to “soba” (buckwheat noodle). Therefore, the Chinese noodles were called “Shinasoba” (Shina being one of the old names for China in Japanese). About one hundred years ago, the first ramen shop “Rairai-ken” opened in Asakusa, Tokyo. The Japanese owner made ramen with soy sauce-flavored

soup, just like the Japanese used in their soba. Since the ramen shop was located in Asakusa, the biggest entertainment area in Japan, the fame of ramen soon spread all over the country. It was after the Second World War that ramen came to be recognized in general. After the war, rice supplies were limited, and as ramen was made from wheat flour, it was regarded as the ideal food. Soldiers coming back from China made ramen at ramen stands using noodles they remembered eating in China as a reference. Hence, ramen’s image today as an eating-out food mainly stemmed from these food stalls. Before long, miso ramen and tonkotsu ramen were born in Hokkaido and Kyushu respectively, each reflecting unique regional tastes. Nowadays, various kinds of ramen are known familiarly as “ramen with local flavors”, hailing from each area of the country. Currently there are more than 30,000 ramen shops in Japan. Especially in To-

kyo’s highly competitive market, more than two new ramen shops open every day. In such a crowded market, a new movement has been taking place - expansion into Asia; especially in Singapore and Hong Kong where the economy has been growing rapidly and the population density is more than 10 times that of Japan’s. Also, Japanese food has already been widely accepted there, making it a favorable environment for exporting ramen. Starting with “Ajisen Ramen” in Hong Kong, ramen shops such as “Ramen Santouka”, “Hakata Ippudo”, and “Taisho-ken” are quickly expanding across Asia. Originally inherited from the Chinese, it is easy to see why ramen has an affinity with food cultures across Asia and is easily accepted by diners. Chinese-born ramen has already been distinctly tied with Japanese culture, and would not be long before it goes beyond Asia and be recognized as a global food. P OR K FREE

en al oy p ly he d, ce en In ace

Another uniquely Japanese ramen, in which miso is used as the main ingredient. Miso ramen was first developed in Sapporo, Hokkaido. That’s why miso ramen usually features plenty of hot pork lard to keep your body warm. The noodles are normally thick and chewy. Typically, bean sprouts or cabbage are added to balance the robust and heavy flavor of the soup.

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Originating from the Hakata and Kurume areas of Fukuoka, tonkotsu ramen is characterized by its thick and creamy broth made from boiling pork bones. Usually the soup is coupled with thin straight noodles. Tonkotsu ramen in Tokyo has developed its own style, where fatty pork is put on top of the noodles.

The soup is a mixture of tonkotsu, chicken, a variety of seafood and more. Since the ingredients are so diverse, so is the density of the soup, which ranges from clear to creamy. Gyokai ramen is more prevalent in Tohoku, whereas in Tokyo, a variation called gyokai tonkotsu (simply adding fish powder to tonkotsu soup) is more common.

Tori is a new variation of ramen that has been gaining popularity since 2000. The creamy soup is made from boiling chicken bones or whole chickens. The flavor is smooth without the bitter taste that is typical of pork. Increasingly, ramen chefs are also garnishing the ramen with chicken chashu or chicken meatballs.

Ushi ramen is the newest trend in Japan. Instead of the usual pork or chicken, beef is used as the main ingredient, which gives the ramen an unprecedented upscale flavor and sweet aroma. Increasingly, ramen chefs are incorporating roast beef and beef steak into their recipe. Since beef is more highly regarded than chicken or pork, the ushi trend is expected to continue.

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ALL ABOUT

RAMEN STYLE MAP

R AMEN

ASAHIKAWA RAMEN 旭川ラーメン

ご当地ラーメンマップ

SAPPORO RAMEN 札幌ラーメン

TIPS FOR RAMEN

SAKATA RAMEN

酒田ラーメン

Though ramen may appear simple, every bowl requires painstaking amount of effort, time and love by the chefs to prepare. With the expansion of famous Japanese ramen branches outside Japan, everyone can now enjoy a bowl of delicious and authentic ramen without travelling to Japan!

HAKATA RAMEN

KITAKATA RAMEN

ONOMICHI RAMEN

喜多方ラーメン

尾道ラーメン

博多ラーメン

TOKYO RAMEN

東京ラーメン

WAKAYAMA RAMEN

Here are 3 tips on how you can better appreciate Japnese ramen.

和歌山ラーメン

KUMAMOTO RAMEN

❶

スープ

THE BROTH

熊本ラーメン

The basic types of stock are made with chicken or pork-bone, together with other ingredients kombu (kelp), katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes), niboshi (dried baby anchovies) and even shrimps. There are mixtures such as pork-chicken or pork-seafood. It is then seasoned with salt, shoyu, miso or sesame oil which lends the broth depth and complexity.

ith the up suffused w Flavourful so ients e main ingred essence of th . urs of boiling af ter long ho es m co scene be As the ramen u can yo mpetitive, increasingly co kaido ok g fusion of H find interestin tonk atsu k and Kyushu seafood stoc eet in hear ty and sw soup which is etableeg yle ramen. V Ashik awa-st riation is a recent va potage soup bles several vegeta that relies on ner. ke ic th ther as a blended toge

Tonkotsu - Pork-bone

Tori - Chicken bones

Niboshi - Dried baby anchovies

d. Katsuobushi - Dried bonito flakes

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ALL ABOUT RAMEN SECRET BEHIND THE DIFFERENCE

❷

麺

THE NOODLES

With good control of the water temperat ure and time taken to blanch the noodles, the no od les will have an Al-dente and springy tex ture, without the smell of kansui (alkali). Whil e most may be familiar with the thin curly yellow type from Tokyo, there are also thick, flat wavy types of noodles from Kit ak ata in northern Ho nsh u and thin straight no odles from Hakata.

Two basic types of noodles: chijire (wavy/curly) and straight in varying thickness. Ranges from fine straight (Kyushu) to thin curly (Tokyo) and medium curly (Hokkaido)

Photos provided by Kanezin Hosomen 細ストレート麺 - Fine straight

Chuboso Chijiremen 中細ちぢれ麺 - Medium curly

Futo Chijiremen 太ちぢれ麺 - Thick curly

❸

トッピング

THE TOPPINGS

Besides the all-time favourite roast pork and soft-boiled eggs, there are also leeks, menma (bamboo shoots) and kamaboko (slices of a type of fish cake). Some are more found in specific kind of ramen; corn and bean sprouts for miso ramen, wakame (seaweed) and sesame seeds for shio ramen, nori (dried seaweed) for shoyu ramen, beni shoga (pickled red ginger) and kikurage (black fungus) for tonkotsu ramen.

Chashu - Roast pork

d. Negi - Leeks

g to vary accordin The toppings es as tter corn rele the broth. Bu es ess that match natural sweetn e broth. For th well with miso hu ces of chas basics, the sli butakakuni (pork loin) or be belly) should (braised pork of ts bi er h tend succulent wit th. in your mou t el fats that m

Menma - Bamboo shoots

Ajitama - Seasoned boiled egg

Nori - Dried seaweed

f. Kikurage - Black fungus

OTHER TOPPINGS YOU MIGHT BE INTERESTED IN

Kae-dama - Refill noodle

Beni shoga - Red pickled ginger

*Photo provided by Ippudo

Takana - Pickled Mustard Greens

Goma - Sesame

*Photo provided by the City of Fukuoka

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RAMEN SHOP IN JAPAN

K te T th so y fr w in sp te te S

HAYATO ISHIYAMA Knowledge is power, especially if you love ramen. And the more you know about the characteristics of a ramen shop, the more you will enjoy your next ramen. Here, Mr. Ishiyama recommends 5 of the hottest ramen shops in Japan. All 5 ramens introduced here contain pork or pork by-products.

Ebisu, Tokyo

Boasting a history of nearly 50 years, Junren is a long-standing staple that brought Sapporo ramen to a nationwide audience. As soon as you lift the noodles up with your chopsticks, you will be impressed by the unique scent of chunky pork lard, garlic, ginger, and Japanese pepper, all mixed well with the exceptional flavor of the miso soup. Moreover, the sufficiently aged “puri-puri” (slightly softer than al dente) noodle is typical of Sapporo ramen. In 2012, a new branch was opened in Ebisu, a district with a high concentration of ramen shops. INSIDER TIP

•Hour s: 11:00-23:00 •Address: 4-4-1 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo •TEL: 03-3441-8720 •URL: http://www.junren.co.jp/group/shop-ebisu.htm

The hot miso flavored soup is rich in pig fat.

Harajuku, Tokyo

INSIDER TIP

The chicken oil on the surface of the soup makes it both rich and filling.

Oimachi, Tokyo

Menichi Kicchou has its roots in the Tohoku region. It evolved from Shirakawa ramen, which is one of the local specialties in Tohoku. The first feature of Menichi is the soy sauce-based soup that characterizes Shirakawa ramen. The second is the curly noodles made by a special method called “Aodake-uchi”. Thirdly, rather than using braised chashu pork that is commonly used in other stores, Menichi uses roasted chashu pork. The current Oimachi store was renovated in 2011, giving you a chance to taste a genuine Tohoku flavor in Tokyo. •Hour s: 11:30 -14:30 17:30 -21:0 0 (Closed on Monday and Tuesday) •Address: 5-6-6 Higashioi, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo •TEL: 03-5460-3358

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•H •A •T •U

Produced by Mr. Ishiyama

Opened in 2012 in the fashionable district of Harajuku, Jingu aims to challenge long-standing ramen traditions by introducing beef into the recipe. The chef of Jingu uses lots of bovine bones and boils them in a pressure cooker to create the thick broth. As if to “beef” it up, the soup and noodles are topped with roasted beef chashu made of black-haired wagyu. It is fair to say the taste of beef chashu is beyond the usual pork you would expect from a ramen shop. •Hours: 11:00-24:00 •Address: 4-32-5 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo •TEL: 03-6434-9910 •URL: http://jingu.asia/

INSIDER TIP

Roasted beef chashu made of black haired wagyu is a luxury.

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Ramen_wat

Shinagawa, Tokyo

Having studied the art of ramen in Kumamoto, Mr. Furuya opened Nantsuttei in his hometown of Kanagawa in 1997. The venture has been a huge success thanks to the rich and creamy pork bone soup and his secret recipe, black “Mayu” (roasted garlic oil). The soup is made from pig head and bones, and then topped with “Ma-yu”, which leaves a bitter hint in your mouth after each sip. And it is this special flavor that differentiates Nantsuttei’s ramen from others. In 2010, Nantsuttei launched its first overseas branch in Singapore. •Hours: 11:00-23:00 •Address: 3-26-20 Takanawa, Minato-ku, Tokyo •TEL: 03-5791-1355 •URL: http://www.nantsu.com/

s, at e es my e pr, y of h h

ONE SECRET POINT

T h e s e c r e t b l a c k r o a s te d g a r l i c o i l i s N a n t s u t t e i ’s signature ingredient.

u, L:

INSIDER TIP

You will fall in love with the curly noodles.

e ly ef d e e d u. is ct

Gotanda, Tokyo

Established in Asahikawa, Hokkaido and gradually expanded to Tokyo, Asia, and even the U.S., Santouka has won the hearts of ramen lovers with its signature shio ramen, making it one of Japan’s signature ramen brands. The pearl-colored tonkotsu soup is rather mild due to the use of seafood like thinly-sliced codfish, which is also a characteristic of ramen in Asahikawa. Moreover, their specialty curly noodles boast a natural, wheat-flavor that blend well with the soup. Currently, Santouka has 21 shops in 9 countries.

•Hours: 11:00-22:00 (Monday-Saturday) 11:0018:00 (Sunday and holiday) •Address: 2-15-10 Nishigotanda, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo •TEL: 036420-0807 •URL: http://www.santouka.co.jp/

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Short Trip from Tokyo

Ito Onsen─ the largest volume of onsen spring in Kanto Region

Izu Peninsula

Nature-Driven Excursion from Tokyo Hot spring, all-year-around cherry blossom, stunning view of Mt. Fuji, and easy access from Tokyo. Ito, located in the heart of Izu Peninsula, is an ultimate resort destination.

Ito Onsen ─ the largest volume of onsen spring in Kanto Region Ito is located 120km (75 miles) away from Tokyo and it is in the same direction of Mt. Fuji, or the southwest. Situated on the eastern coast of Izu Peninsula, the city is known for its relatively warm weather, also dubbed as an "eternal spring" – even cherry blossoms bloom in autumn. Ito's unique location, facing Sagami Bay in front and Mt. Amagi on the back, allows visitors to fully immerse into the mountainous and seaside natures and harvests. The best part, onsen, is famously known to have the largest flow rate of the natural spring, with overwhelmingly 752 outlets and the flow rate of 32,000 liter/minute. This is the largest scale in Kanto Region. Izukogen (Izu Highland) Area, which includes 580m high Mt. Oomuro and Jogasaki Coast, is known to have diverse natural resources, which stems from periods of volcanic activities in the past. Because of this background, the view from the area is promising no matter when you visit.

tra so za th

The relatively all-year-around warm weather means visitors can witness beautiful flowers, and that includes a symbolic of Japan, cherry blossom. Sakura (cherry blossom) Village in Mt. Omuro begins to bloom what's called winter cherry blossom from mid-October. Various kinds of cherry blossoms bloom consecutively through out the winter season until spring. At Komuroyama Park, camellia blooms from November and it peaks out in February and March. This is another fascination of Ito. Onsen, nature, great food, and cherry blossoms all in one day. Simply, the greatest getaway trip from busy streets of Tokyo.

in Ito on th co pe

bu in

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short tri

Seizan Yamato

青山やまと

This is My Second Home 安らぎを求めて何度でも訪れたくなる宿

Hospitality, architecture, location, and tranquility of the atmosphere – these are some of the factors that distinguish Seizan Yamato, a luxury onsen inn, from the rest of similar inns. Onsen and all the rooms have an uninterrupted expansive view of downtown Ito and Sagami Bay. Unlike a similar onsen inn, guests of Seizan Yamato have their dinner in their room – allowing a convenient and personalized dining experience with a wide selection of choices. Each room is serviced by nakai, a lady butler, to assist needs of the guests during the stay. Seizan Yamato's hospitality

Onsen spring In Seizan Yamato is directly taken from a nearby spring source.

also emerges on the fine details. Two types of yukata bathrobe, one is for moving around the inn and the other is for sleeping, is equipped for the guest's convenience. A wide range of pillow is also available for the optimum sleeping experience. Access to Ito: From Tokyo Station, get the special express "Odorikogo" on the Izukyuko line for Shimoda to Ito Station. (1hr. 50min.) You can also take the shinkansen "Kodamago" for Nagoya or Osaka, it takes 55 minutes to reach Atami Station and transfer to the Ito Line going toward Izu Shimoda and ride for about 24 minutes to Ito Station.

With a comprehensive hospitality experience, this is what a guest can call, my second home – you simply want to come back again, and again.

SEIZAN YAMATO ADDRESS: 230 Oka Ito-shi Shizuoka, 414-0055 TEL: +81(0)557-32-0300 PRICE: JPY25,350/ person/night (2 guests/room)-*depense on the date. WEBSITE: ht tp: //www.seizanyamato.jp/ seizan2009/international/

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SILVER

It all starts in GINZA SEAT

Find “Wa” in Tokyo’s exquisite town For more than 100 years, Ginza has remained the center of high society and luxury shopping in Tokyo. Despite several great fires and bombing during WWII engulfing the whole district, it has constantly revitalized itself as a fine shopping area. In the late 1980s, during the Japanese bubble economy, it was said that the value of property in Ginza was worth more than that of the whole California. Now those high streets boast

a collection of sparkling buildings housing major brands like Hermes, Cartier, Louis Vouitton, and more. Although at first glance Ginza may look like any upmarket shopping area in Asia, once you step into one of the shops that specialize in traditional Japanese wares, you realize you have stepped into the deep world of “Wa（和） .” Wa is a highly nuanced, profound word that stands simultaneously for “Japanese,” “harmony” and “calm-

ness.” Wa of Ginza is different from that of Kyoto. Kyoto was traditionally a city for aristocrats and wa in Kyoto is elegant and rather “rococo”. Whereas Edo (the medieval name for Tokyo) was a town for Chonin (well-off ordinaries) who were known for their taste for all things 'chic'. Ginza is the best place to find this Wa-chic. Here in this issue, we have picked just some of the shops and spots where you can experience such Wa.

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Wear Kimono, walk streets in Ginza Ginza is a town mixing the traditional with the modern. It is not unusual to find people in kimono walking around the streets. Miki Tokugawa, an actor who used to live in the United States, enjoys spending quality time in Ginza. Here she deepened her attraction to Japanese culture and began learning how to wear kimono. Tokugawa explained that she became interested in Japanese traditional culture for the first time when she came back from the US. “Many of my foreign friends asked me about the history and culture of Japan. But some questions were hard for me to answer,” Tokugawa remembered. She then attended a kabuki performance, which she found “much more interesting than I had thought.” She was soon drawn into such aspects of Japanese culture as tea ceremony, ikebana (flower arrangement) and kimono. As an actor/model, Tokugawa needs to wear kimono quite often for filming and photo shoots. “I didn't know much about wearing a kimono. I didn't even know the left panel should be over the right,” she added. She started attending a kimono training school in Ginza hosted by “Kimono Gallery Ginza Yumekura” with her friend. Bringing in seasonal motifs and nuance is essential to kimono and “Wa” culture as a whole. Colors, patterns and materials vary with every season. Spring sees people in flower pattern kimono or obi (sash) while quiet colors are favored in fall. From June to September, people select “hitoe (no backing)” kimono and

after that until the beginning of spring, they wear “awase (lined)” kimono. “Naga-juban,” a garment worn underneath kimono, also ranges in material. Tokugawa remarked that, “I can feel the change of seasons through wearing kimono.” “There are many kinds of kimono arrangements or ways to tie up obi. My instructor taught me both traditional and casual ways,” Tokugawa pointed out. Another reason she likes kimono is that it is a suit that several generations can wear, from grandmother to granddaughter or even beyond. In the photo above, Tokugawa wears her kimono with her grandmother's obi. “Some kimonos I put on today are from my mom or my grandmother. I think one of the most special characteristics is that it tells us to take care of what we have. I really treasure my old kimonos and obis.” After her kimono-wearing class, Tokugawa enjoyed walking around, seeing the sights or shopping in Ginza in kimono. This is called “Gin-bura,” as the Japanese word “bura” means hanging out. She often comes for Gin-bura nowadays as well. “There are a number of shops selling local specialties from various regions of Japan,” she said.

Profile: Miki Tokugawa Actor and model. Born in Nagano prefecture, she studied in the U.S after she graduated from junior high school. She also serves as a bilingual emcee and narrator, and interpreter.

Tokugawa is an official PR person for “Bijin Genmai,” a brown rice brand from Hiroshima, at the Hiroshima house inside Ginza Meza-Marcher (5-3-13 Ginza). “Ginza has both tradition and modernity, and that's why kimono fits this town,” Tokugawa explained. “I come to Ginza to enjoy art exhibitions and different performances. Here you can discover many things .”

Miki Tokugawa wears a light pink kimono with her grandmother's obi, which was made in the early Showa period (1926-1989). Her shawl is also from her mother. "I mix and match by myself. I can feel my mom and grandmother's love every time I wear their handme-downs," said Tokugawa.

Ginza's rich past Ginza started out as a peripheral area of Nihonbashi and Asakusa, which were main commercial areas during the Edo period. Two massive fires in the 19th Century prompted the government of the day to redevelop Ginza as a western-style district.With the first railway station in Japan, Shimbashi station, built right next to it, Ginza became a symbol of the westernization of Japan. In the 20th Century luxury department stores and bars in western style

and restaurants that serve western cuisines opened one after another. Ginza became the most fashionable part of town, where young people dressed up in “western clothes” to hang out. While the youth scene has gradually shifted to Shibuya and Harajuku over the years, Ginza is still loved as one place in Tokyo where you can find "the very best of everything".

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Mysterious 窶カapan Story 1

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Meiji Jingu

When you re feeling a little down, take a flow of extra Qi!

GET CHARGED UP:

TOKYO POWER SPOT J

all possess Qi, and it is often defined as apanese people are generally considered an invisible energy that flows between to be not so religious , when such these three mediums. In this way, Qi devotion is measured by monotheistic resembles what some call a wavelength standards. And yet, from time to time, between people, as love at first sight the Japanese show fervent devotion to and other inexplicable attractions are seemingly silly things. In recent years, explained as two people sharing similar power spots have become a fad, and or harmonizing Qi. quiet, sacred lands have become crowded According to Feng Shui, when a with swarms of people desperate to person is feeling down or gain extra energy . This sick, the feeling is caused seemingly fickle New Age by either bad Qi or a lack trend, however, does have a of Qi. So, in the olden genuine root in Feng Shui and days, people would make the theory of Qi. a trip to places with a Qi is the basis of all the ideas b. Todoroki Gorge fountain of good Qi, and theories behind Feng with the belief that an influx of this good Shui, which is essentially a study of the energy would help them recover. Good flow of Qi. The earth, the sky and people

Tokyo Daijingu

Qi could also be taken in by eating dried foods, which are believed to be filled with Qi from the sky, and by soaking in hot springs full of Qi from the earth. So where does good Qi flow from and how are such places identified? Supposedly, in ancient times, anyone could feel Qi: since people co-existed with nature, they could simply sense

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Mysteriou

places where Qi flowed. As well, at that time there were hermit monks who underwent special and strict trainings on the flow of Qi. These monks walked around deep in the mountains and forests alone, and put markers at spots with good flows of Qi as well as flows of Qi that were too strong for people without their special training. Many of these sources of good Qi, such as grand Mt. Fuji and the majestic Ise, are easy to identify - even for people with no knowledge of Feng Shui. But

Meiji Jingu／明治神宮 b. Todoroki Gorge／等々力渓谷 c. Tokyo Daijingu／東京大神宮 d. Senzoku Pond／洗足池 e. Inokashira Park／井の頭公園 a.

1-1 Yoyogi Kamizono Cho, Shibuya-ku 渋谷区代々木神園町1-1 1-22, 2-37∼38 Todoroki, Setagaya-ku 世田谷区等々力1-22, 2-37∼38 2-4-1 Fujimi, Chiyoda-ku 千代田区富士見2-4-1 2-14-5 Minamisenzoku, Ota-ku 大田区南千束2-14-5 1-18-31 Gotenyama, Musashino-shi 武蔵野市御殿山1-18-31

Power Spot : The Imperial Palace

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Senzoku Pond

places began to get heavy attention from spots with good Qi exist in urban areas the mainstream media, who referred to as well. A place with a good flow of these places as power spots - creating Qi flows with wind and water (hence a power spot craze. But most of the name Feng , meaning wind, and these power spots are Shui , meaning water). not just hokey New Age As a result, any place with inventions, but places with a good breeze and healthy a strong historical base in flow of water is usually a Feng Shui. good spot for Qi. With this in mind, let s Needless to say, most e. Inokashira Park explore some power spots of these places with good photo/ Karl Baron in Tokyo and get charged up! Even if you Qi have been - and still continue to be don t believe in Qi or Feng Shui, you places of religious worship, and welcome can appreciate these power spots for their people who need a flow of good Qi. natural beauty. With the great economic downfall, these

hen you talk about power spots in Tokyo, the first and supposedly most powerful that comes to mind is the Imperial Palace, right in the middle of the city. The palace, however, is a manmade power spot, given that Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of Tokugawa Shogunate, took the lead in the massive reconstruction of the city according to Feng Shui, to recreate the city in a form more favorable to Qi. One of the great goals of this vast project was to create a spiral of moats around Edo Castle, (the present day Imperial Palace), to collect all the good Qi. Thanks to his grandiosity, the Shogunate stayed in power and ruled a peaceful country for over 250 years. Today, the Imperial Palace is home to the country s Emperor, but most of its 1,150,000m2 property is open to the public. Marked in any map of Tokyo as a big green patch right in the middle of the city, the palace is covered with lush woods and grass with various flowers, adding color to the castle grounds every season of the year. You can walk freely in the Eastern Garden, or go on a free guided tour (with advanced reservations) into parts of Nishinomaru, where the actual palace is situated.

Information

The Imperial Palace • Admission: Free • 9:00-16:30 • Enter from Ote-mon, Sakashita-mon or Kikyo-mon, Hirakawa-mon, Kita-hanebashi-mon gates. • 5 to 15 min walk from JR Tokyo, Tokyo Metro Otemachi, Nijubashi-mae, Takebashi stations. • HP: http://sankan.kunaicho.go.jp/english/index.html Free Guided Tours Given twice daily at 10:00 and 13:30. Approximately one hour long. Reserve at least 7 days in advance by calling at 3213-1111 or online at http://sankan.kunaicho.go.jp/ order/index_EN.html

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vol.

Japanese Recipes for Your Daily Table

HOME TREATS

Do you love Japanese food? Here are some popular home recipes that will never fail to delight family and friends.

和風パエリア

Japanese-style Paella

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[Preparation]

Use a larg if you t be stickier The rice mus e pot. ar w en rth ea cook with an

1. Set aside Konbu seaweed (approx. 6g or a 5cm x 10cm piece) in 600cc of water for more than an hour. Wash the rice and drain. 2. Mince the onion and garlic, and slice the lotus root and Shiitake mushrooms. 3. Wash and remove sand from Asari clams, cut the squid in to 5mm width, wash the prawns and cut the chicken into small pieces (1-2cm).

This is a recipe for Japanese style paella, which can be cooked with ingredients that are widely available. You can try it since it’s very easy to cook in a pan with lots of seafood, garlic, and olive oil. Ingredients

4 to 5 pax

▪ Rice: 3 cups ▪ Seafood: 200g Asari clam, 5pcs prawn (with shell), half a squid ▪ Chicken thigh: 100g ▪ Lotus root: 50g ▪ Shiitake mushroom: 2-3 pcs ▪ Onion: 60-70g (1/4 pc) ▪ Garlic: 1-2 pcs ▪ Olive oil: 2 tablespoons ▪ Konbu dashi (seaweed stock): 600cc ▪ Soy sauce: 60cc ▪ Green vegetable (eg. string beans) ▪ Salt & pepper

Recipe and Photos by

- www.sirogohan.com -

Tadasuke Tomita His passion for cooking is so great that he quit his job at a big company to study at a culinary school, and became an apprentice at an authentic high end Japanese restaurant. Currently, he is working with a product development department of a Japanese processed food maker, while managing a personal website introducing traditional Japanese home cooking recipes. As his other hobby is photography, all the photos on his website are his own works.

[Cooking]

5. Warm up the pan with 2 tablespoons of olive oil and chopped garlic. When the oil warms up and the garlic starts to cook, add the chopped onions. Then add the chicken, squid, prawns and lotus root, and stir-fry them. When the prawns turn red, add the mushrooms and some salt and pepper. 6. Then add drained rice and stirfry until the rice is glossy, coated with oil (if there isn’t enough oil, add another spoonful of it). Add 600cc of Konbu stock, 60cc soy sauce, and then stir. Add Asari clam before putting the lid on. Place the prawns on top of the rice for better presentation. Use medium fire with the lid on, and wait for the lot to be boiled. 7. Wait for 2 minutes after boiling, then turn down the fire and cook for 8 to 12 minutes. It is better to check it after 8 minutes, because the cooking time can vary. After all the water is evaporated from the pan, turn off the heat, and steam it for 10 minutes with the lid still on. Garnish with some boiled greens.

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Japan s Fine Tableware Loved throughout the World Noritake’ s origin dates back to the end of the Edo period. After Japan had opened to the west, Noritake ’ s founder, Ichizaemon Mo r i m u r a , d e c i d e d t o s t a r t t r a d i n g with the outside of the world. Hence he established the predecessor of Noritake and sent his brother Toyo to New York to start an imported goods retail store. On a visit to the World Exposition in Paris, Ichizaemon was taken by the exquisite of European porcelain and nurtured the idea to manufacture fine tableware in Japan. After years of effort, Noritake successfully produced Japan’ s first dinnerware in 1914. Since then, Noritake ’ s fine tableware has been loved throughout the world as its beauty has continued to transcend over the ages.

GINZA CHURCH

Ginza Sta. Exit C8

Matsuya-dori

Harumi-dori

Discover the real beauty at Noritake Ginza store To Yurakucho Sotobori-dori TOEI KAIKAN

Opened on October 11th, 2012, Noritake Ginza store displays approximately 1,000 items of beautiful dinnerware, arts and crafts, and gifts Address:

Bunshodo Building 2F, 3-4-12, Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo

Business hours: 11am-7:30pm Open all year (except for New Year’s holidays)

WAKO

KYOBUNKAN

MITSUKOSHI

2440

Apple store

Chuo-dori

Ginza Sta. Exit A8

MATSUYA

Ginza Sta. Exit A13

Tel:

03-3567-6121

Access:

1-minute walk from A13 exit, Ginza Station, on the Tokyo Metro Ginza Line, Marunouchi Line, and Hibiya Line

URL:

www.noritake.co.jp/tableware/shoplist/ginza.html

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