WAttention Tokyo vol 7

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A sa le er ar It e c fa d ye so

鬼 え あ の い き み

S S It tu ra th d a

a ev

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In Ha rmony w it h t he Se a sons SETSUBUN RISSHUN 4th February

Af ter ousting the Oni, sardine heads and holly leaves, which are considered as the Oni-deterrents, are hung in the doorway. It s also customar y to eat a kind of rolled sushi called Eho-maki while facing toward the luck y direction of that year. This year s luck y direction is south-south-east.

節分 立春

鬼が無事祓われ、立春の日を迎 えると、鬼の嫌う鰯の頭やトゲが ある柊の葉を軒先に飾り、その年 の恵方と呼ばれるよい方角を向 いて、恵方巻きと呼ばれる海苔巻 きを食べる習慣があります。ちな みに今年の恵方は南南東です。

月4日

2

According to the Japanese calendar, Spring starts on the day of Risshun/ Setsubun (which this year falls on 4th Feb). It is said to be the day when the temperature hits its annual low, then starts rising rather than falling, thus it s thought to be the real beginning of the new year. The dates of many traditional seasonal events are calculated from this day. Setsubun is regarded as the day to chase away the Oni (an ogre), which represents evil spirits and misfortunes. Chanting Oni wa soto, Fuku wa uchi...(Evil out, Luck in...) , people throw roasted soy

beans at a person wearing an Oni mask, symbolizing the ridding of bad luck from their homes. This ritual is derived from a ceremony Tsuina which was performed in royal court.   日本の春は「立春 ( 毎年変わるが、今年は2月4 日 )」と呼ばれる日から始まります。いわゆる「節分」 という行事の翌日、寒さが極まりもうこれ以上寒くなら ず、温かくなっていく、という節目の日を新しい年の始 まりと考えました。行事の多くがこの日から数えて何日 目というように起点の日ともなっています。  そこで春を迎える前にやっておかなければならない こと。それが「節分」の日の「鬼祓いの儀式」。鬼 とは災厄をまとめてひとつのモチーフにしたものです。

こ よ み を 楽 し む

text & coordination/ Rieko Ido, photo/ Hajime Watanabe 文とスタイリング=井戸理恵子、 写真=渡邉肇

「鬼は外、福は内」と云いながら、煎った大豆を鬼 の面を被った人にぶつけては鬼を外に追い払います。 宮中で行われていた「追儺(ついな)」という儀式 が元になっていますが、今では各家々でも行われるよ うになりました。

Rieko Ido Conducting research into Japanese customs and knowledge from ancient times, and applying technical analysis of these findings to modern lifestyle. Kokugakuin University graduate. Teaches at Tama Art University.

井戸理恵子 國學院大學卒業。日本古来の知見を工学的に検証し次 世代に繋がる「技術」を模索、現代の衣食住を発展させ る提案をしている。多摩美術大学非常勤講師。

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Spring 2013

Letter from the Editor In this issue of WAttention, we will bring you to Asakusa and Ueno, the must-go in Tokyo. Surprisingly, it is the first time for us to do a full-blown report on such a popular destination. What comes to your mind when you think of Asakusa? I suppose the usual answers are Kaminarimon Gate, Nakamise shopping street, and Sensoji Temple. But have you ever heard of Asakusa shrine? The fusion of Shintoism and Buddhism in Japan was challenged during the Meiji Restoration, when in 1868, shrines were separated from the temples that housed them, and hence Asakusa shrine was born. Today s Asakusa shrine is known as a spiritual place and visited by people from around the world. The secret of Asakusa shrine will be uncovered in this issue s Tokyo Power Spot, and many more hidden gems about Asakusa will be introduced through our unique points of view. I sincerely hope you will enjoy reading the newest issue of WAttention. Publisher Yasuko Suzuki

Don't miss out! Subscribe to WAttention Tokyo

今回 WAttention は、日本人のみならず、多くの外 国人観光客に人気の浅草・上野にフォーカスをあてま した。意外でしょうが、本誌では初めての特集です。  浅草と言えば、雷門、仲見世、そして浅草寺が定番 ですが、浅草寺境内にある、浅草寺の守護神とも呼ば れる浅草神社をご存知ですか?明治時代、政府によ る「神仏分離令」によって浅草寺と分けられるまでは、 神前で浅草寺の僧侶が読経を行っていた歴史がありま す。明治元年(1868)、三社明神と名前が変わり、さら に6年後には浅草神社と改名されています。そして今で は、たいへん御利益のある神社として、日本全国から 参拝客が集まっています。  その秘密は、今号の Tokyo Power Spot で詳しく ご紹介していますので、ぜひお読みください。東京を 紹介する多くのガイドブックに取り上げられる浅草です が、本誌ならではの独自の視点と最新情報をお楽しみ いただけると思います。

発行人 鈴木康子

Please fill out and fax to 03-6862-6760 or email to infotokyo@wattention.com. We will reply within a few days. You'll never miss an issue of WAttention Tokyo with home delivery. Order now and the magazine will be at your home. Your subscription also includes WAttention Tokyo readers membership that provides Tokyo s useful information, an events calendar, e-newsletter and more! [WAttention Tokyo 定期送付のご案内] 配布エリア外にお住いの方や、毎号お読みになりたい方のために定期送付いたします。お申し込みされた方には WAttention Tokyo メンバーとして、イベント、各チケットなどお得な情報をメールマガジンでお届けします。

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3 ※日本文化の魅力を世界に発信する「WAttention Tokyo」

r

事業は東京都中小企業振興公社の推奨事業です。

VOL.07

Asakusa

は、

Weaving Colorful Tales

物語のあるまち、 浅草

しく

03

In Harmony with the Seasons

04

Letter from the Editor

06

Asakusa Weaving Colorful Tales Th read Th rough the Town Stylin Souvenirs

12

Ueno Where Culture Meets Nature Museum Hopping - All within the Park

.

d o r,

18

Japan s Fine Tableware: It All Began with Noritake

20

Tokyo Restaurant Guide

21

EDGY TOKYO

22

Tokyo Power Spot

24

Short Trip from Tokyo – Noritake Garden

26

Tokyo Transporter

28

Tokyo Must-Do

29

What s on

30

Gurunavi Navigates You

through the Japanese Culinary Culture

Why WAttention ? WAttention is so named with the hope that people in the world would pay more Attention to WA(和); an important term in Japanese culture meaning harmony with nature, peace and even Japanese culture itself! 世界中の人々に「和」 (WA)に注目(Attention) してほしいという 願いを込めてWA+Attention= WAttentionと名づけました。

Publisher Yasuko Suzuki WATTENTION CO., LTD. Associate Editor Naoko Umagoe Editorial Staff Yoko Aoki Mizuho Ota Charles Chen Editorial & Design Art Director Yasuhisa Tamura Photographer Hajime Watanabe / Kenji Sugasawa / Nobuaki Tanaka Illustrator Reina Sato / Seiko Misuno Contributing Writer Hiroki Yanagisawa Eriko Sugita Hougan Kishida Photo courtesies City of Taito Special thanks to JNTO Tokyo JR East Rieko Ido (adviser) Arne van Lamoen / Chris Jacques / Lynn Ooi / Brett Bundale 広告・記事に関するお問い合わせは 和テンション株式会社 〒 107-0062 東京都港区南青山 5-18-10-202 Phone : 03-6418-5701 / Fax : 03-6418-5704 E-mail : info-tokyo@wattention.com シンガポール事務所 Minook International (S) Pte Ltd 2B Craig Road singapore 089662 Phone : 65-6324-2127 ロサンゼルス事務所 Team J station, Inc. 2383 Lomita Blvd., Suite 114 Lomita, CA.90717 Phone : 1-310-782-8279 WAttention Tokyo

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Asakusa

物語のあるまち、 浅草

Weaving Colorful Tales

Centered around the famous grandiose red temple where the district s prosperity originated, Asakusa takes pride in being one of the oldest districts of vast Tokyo. The symbolic face of the district, Senso-ji, is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the city, and has been so for almost 1,400 years, attracting both religious minds and tourists alike. Although the enchanting presence of its guardian temple overshadows the area's other charm at times, the surrounding town is full of awe-inspiring stories rich in entertainment, worship and festivals that are still in the making. The story of Asakusa always begins from the same source: two fishermen brothers found a statue of the Goddess of Mercy in Sumida River, and subsequently built and dedicated their lives to the temple along with the wise man of the village in

6 v su a d

S th Th th a (i a q Th w e w g A ta

The grand temple of Senso-ji has attracted countless visitors to Asakusa throughout its 1,400-year history. Like a colorful piece of fabric, the area around the temple has just as much charm, woven with vibrant stories that are told and continue to be made throughout its time.

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e y g o. i, ior ih n er is rre

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628. Thanks to the temple, Senso-ji, the village started receiving visitors from the surrounding regions, and grew to become a prominent place of worship (for further details, please read page 22). The boom really hit when the Tokugawa Shogunate set Edo (present day Tokyo) as the capital of the unified country in 1603. The adjacent Sumida River that flows through the east end of the city became an important route for transporting goods (including one of the most important assets, rice) and warehouses were subsequently built just downstream of Asakusa. This brought in a large group of rich rice wholesalers and even richer rice/money exchangers who took joy in lavishing their wealth on entertainment and extravagant goods. Owing to these rich patrons, Asakusa began to prosper in the entertainment industry and fine craftsmanship

from then on. The year 1657 added another aspect to Asakusa s entertainment industry when the city s red light district, Yoshiwara, was moved to just north of Asakusa due to the great fire that destroyed much of the city. The strong foundation of entertainment survived after the new democratic government took over in 1868, and until the mid-1900s, the district was frequented by prominent literary figures and entertainers, who – like Hiroshige Utagawa who produced a number of fine ukiyoe pieces of Asakusa – were charmed by the district and set many novels in Asakusa, including a piece by Nobel laureate Yasunari Kawabata who mentioned the district as follows: Asakusa is the heart of Tokyo, a market of people. An entertainment district where all people can take a joy .

The eclectic faces of Asakusa have contributed to the distinct personality of this district and of the residents alike, characterized by the open and energetic, curious and stubborn nature of this festival-loving culture. Words indeed cannot describe the true charm of this neighborhood that continually draws you in to become part of their story, as there is always a new discovery and genuine joy that comes from being in this unique corner of the city – it's something that can be only be appreciated through your own experience.  東京の町の中でも古い歴史を持つ浅草は、宗教、 芸能、工芸など様々な顔を持つ特異さも併せ持つ。繁 栄の中心である浅草寺もさることながら、脈々と紡がれ てきた街そのものが持つストーリーにも限りない魅力が秘 められている。春の陽気の中、散策するのにもってこい の街なのだ。

Senso-ji Check out the placement of the five-story pagoda on the cover of this issue, and then in this painting captured from the same side. After being destroyed during the war, the pagoda was rebuilt on the other side due to the result of the latest Feng Sui study at the time!

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Thread through the Town! Take a leisurely stroll around the corners of Asakusa, which has retained its historical property. Compare the current map and that of 1851, and see how similar the structure of the town is! Knowing the history behind these landmarks will enhance your day in this magical town!

M 18 w

O m p n ra m b Th th fa an

❷ Asakusa Engei Hall ❶ Asakusa Hanayashiki Founded by a plant dealer as a botanical garden open to public in 1853, Hanayashiki, literally meaning flower mansion , is one of the oldest amusement parks in the country. Originally, stretched over 80,000 square meters, Hanayashiki became smaller as time went on yet remained Asakusa s joyful wonderland, transforming into a zoo in early 1900s and then to an amusement park in 1949. The attractions include the country s oldest operating rollercoaster installed in 1953 and Space Shot which shoots you vertically up 60m to the vast panoramic view of Asakusa before dropping back down to the ground. •Hours: 10:00 - 18:00 •Address: 2-28-1 Asakusa, Taito-ku Admission: 900 yen for adult, rides from 200 yen •Access: 3 – 5 min walk from Asakusa stations •URL: http://www.hanayashiki.net/e/index.html

This precious hall that showcases traditional Japanese entertainment started as a movie theater in 1907. After being destroyed during WWII, it came back as a renowned strip club called Furansu-za in 1951, where many comedians per formed between strip shows to enter tain the guests. In fact, many of these comedians became famous in later years, including comedian and film director Takeshi Kitano. Together, comedy shows and strip teases played an important role in the recovery process from the war, putting smiles and cheerfulness back on people s faces. The strip shows were scrapped in 2000. Instead, guests can still enjoy a variety of traditional entertainment including magic shows and rakugo, a traditional comedy stor y telling. Get a box of bento like the locals and sit amongst the crowd of dedicated fans! Even if you don t understand the story, it s worth the experience!

•H M Ta ad A G A am ht

•Hours: 11:40 -16:30 (daytime shows), 16:40 - 21:00 (evening shows) •Address: 1-43-12 Asakusa, Taito-ku Admission: 2500 yen for adult •Access: 3 – 5 min walk from Asakusa stations •URL: http://www.asakusaengei.com/ (Japanese only)

❸ Sometaro A legendary okonomiyaki (Japanese style pancake with vegetables and meat) restaurant in Asakusa, Sometaro opened in 1937 by its legendary mistress Haru Sakimoto. Thanks to cheap and delicious okonomiyaki as well as this cheerful lady owner, the restaurant became popular, and almost an iconic hangout, amongst those in the entertainment and the literary industry. Although Haru has been long deceased, her spirit is carried on in this humble yet irresistibly charming restaurant, which brings you back to good old Tokyo as soon as you step inside. The skillful staff s spectacular efficient cooking of the sizzling okonomiyaki right in front of you is a definite must-experience in Asakusa! •Hours: 10:00 - 22:30 (LO 22:00) •Address: 2-2-2 Nishi-Asakusa, Taito-ku •Access: 3 min walk from Asakusa station on Tsukuba Express Line, 10 min walk from Asakusa stations on Tokyo Metro Ginza Line and Toei Asakusa Line •URL: http://www.sometaro.com/ (Japanese only)

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❹ Asakusa Tourism Cultural Information Center

Just opened last year in April, this stylish information center offers thorough information on paper, online and via experienced staf f. Climb up through the magnificent building designed by a famous Japanese architect, Kengo Kuma, to the observatory space for an amazing view where you can see the temple from above!

Fu in S p co lit

•Hours: 9:00 - 20:00 •Address: 2-18-9 Kaminarimon, Taito-ku •Access: 1 min walk from Asakusa station on Tokyo Metro Ginza Line and Toei Asakusa Line, 10 min walk from Asakusa stations on Tsukuba Express Line •URL: http:// www.city.taito.lg.jp/index/bunka_kanko/kankocenter/a-ticgaiyo.html (Japanese only)

•H H •A G sh

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d b ns e e m d y ss

d, nal e s! e

Koto

toi A

ve.

❶ Kappabash

i

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Ed

Asakusa Stn. (Tsukuba Express)

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Senso-ji

Kaminarim

Koku

s a i Av

e.

Nishi Hongan-ji

Asakusa Stn.

(Tobu Line)

Kaminarimon on Ave.

❺ Sumida River

Asakusa Stn.

A saku

(Tokyo Metro / Toei)

sa Ave

.

Map of Asakusa in 1851 (left) and now (right). 1851 map: red-religious facilities, green-rice field, bluewater, white-houses.

❺ Yakata-bune on Sumida River ❻ Amuse Museum Owned by the entertainment m e g a a g e n c y, A m u s e, t h i s precious museum has a permanent exhibition on Boro or ragged traditional clothing and materials that are exquisitely beautiful and well worth a visit. There is also an observatory on the roof where you can see the famous Senso-ji from a unique angle.

To enjoy the cherry blossoms to the fullest, or to simply enjoy the landscape, get on a yakata-bune, or a boat with a traditional tatami room cruising adjacent Sumida River. The stretch along the river is one of the most appreciated cherry blossom viewing spots in the city!

Dango-ya If you are lucky, you may run into dango-ya or sweet buns venders, wondering (wandering) around the temple with extremely heavy wooden shelves right on the shoulder, traditional style!

• H o u r s : 10:0 0 - 18:0 0 C l o s e d Mon. •Address: 2-34-3 Asakusa, Taito-ku •Admission: 1000 yen for adult •Access: 5 min walk from Asakusa stations on Tokyo Metro Ginza Line, Tobu Line and Toei Asakusa Line •URL: http://www. amusemuseum.com/english/index. html

ng n: sa se

Asakusa-style Tempura Asakusa s decadent unique culture is also evident in its tempura; fried in fragrant sesame seed-oil and rich in flavor, it has been one of THE dishes to eat for visitors and locals alike. Experience the amazing difference from standard tempura served elsewhere!

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on ne e se or m

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❼ Tokyo Asakusa Funawa

❽ Kamiya Bar

Funawa was founded by a sweet potato dealer who invented imo-yokan or sweet potato confectionary. Some branches around the temple offers individual pieces, along with colorful ankodama (bean paste confectionary) , so pay a visit when you need a healthy little break!

The very first bar in Japan that opened in 1880, Kamiya Bar is one of the symbolic architectural and cultural gem of Asakusa, being designated as a tangible cultural asset. Their specialty drink denki buran , a concoction of brandy-based cocktail was the cutting edge drink people dreamed of, and still remains to be a drink that represents Asakusa.

•Hours: Mon-Fri 10:00 -19:00, Sat 10:00 – 20:00, Sun & Holidays 10:00 – 19:30 •Address: 1-22-10 Asakusa, Taito-ku •Access: 5 min walk from Asakusa stations on Tokyo Metro Ginza Line and Toei Asakusa Line •URL: http://funawa.jp/ shop/ (Japanese only)

•Hours: 11:30 - 22:00 (LO 21:30) Closed Tues. •Address: 1-1-1 Asakusa, Taito-ku •Access: 3 min walk from Asakusa station on Tsukuba Express Line, 10 min walk from Asakusa stations on Tokyo Metro Ginza Line and Toei Asakusa Line •URL: http://www.sometaro.com/ (Japanese only)

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Stylin Souvenirs!

Apart from the famous Nakamise street leading up to Senso-ji, there are countless spots to hunt for great souvenirs! Find unique and original items around Asakusa!

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G

Bamboo chopsticks: 735 yen

Th

Tsuge comb: from 5,250 yen

Ekimise After the make over to bring back i t s o r i g i n a l c l a s s i c f a ç a d e, t h i s iconic department store above Tobu A s a k u s a stati o n of fe r s n ew a n d exciting shops after its grand opening last year. Take the elevator right up to the 7th floor, and you ll find a collection of shops offering a variety of Japanese crafts. Megurite, for example, is co-run by young craftsmen specialized in Kurume-gasuri textile, Tsuge (box tree) crafts and bamboo crafts, who take turns to display themselves at work right in front of the shop every day, so that visitors can interact with them and experience the superior qualities of the craftsmen s work! says the shop s producer Yoshihiko Takamuku. Don t miss the chance!

F o c H y tr

Bamboo cup and muddler: 1,890 yen Kurume-gasuri purse: 4,200 yen

Megurite/ Ekimise •Hour s: 10:0 0 -20:0 0 •Address: 1-4-1 Hanakawado, Taito-ku •Access: 0 min walk from Asakusa stations on Tobu Line, 1 min walk from Tokyo Metro Ginza Line, 3 min from Toei Asakusa Line •URL: http://www.ekimise.jp/contents/pc/ index.php (Japanese only)

Tsuge craftsman Toshiaki Ando Kurume-gasuri shawl (2m): 10,290 yen

Kappabashi This world famous kitchenware district used to be an impor tant irrigation stream back two centuries ago (look at the map on the previous page, and find the blue line indicating body of water right along Kappabashi street!). This is also evident in the name Kappa , the imaginary creatures that live in the water. Some believe that recyclable household goods were dumped here and got repaired and sold, and consequently turned into a kitchenware district. One of the unique goods found here amongst great kitchenware are food samples. You can easily locate specialized shops selling these all handmade and unbelievably real looking plastic art!

Asakusa

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Smar tphone s t a n d: f r o m 2,415 yen

Sushi clock: from 18,900 yen

te w K to h w h ce w fa S L fr li si

Maiduru A pint of beer: from 4,305yen

•Hours: 9:00 -18:00 •Address: 1-5-17 Nishi-Asakusa, Taito-ku •Access: 5 min walk from Asakusa station on Tsukuba Express Line and Tawaramachi station on Ginza Line •URL: http://www.maiduru. co.jp/ (Japanese only)

Samurai precision at affordable prices!!

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17 in ba on u.

A Stay in the Heart of Asakusa

Gate Hotel Kaminarimon The View, the Design, the Comfort Finely designed comfort meets one of the best views in the city; the newly opened Gate Hotel Kaminarimon welcomes you with elegance and pride in traditional Asakusa.

Information Chac k In: 14:0 0 Che c k O u t: 11:0 0 Address: 2-16-11 Kaminarimon, Taito-ku Access: 3 min walk from Tokyo Metro Asakusa station, 5 min walk from Tobu Asakusa station, 7 min walk from Tsukuba Express Asakusa station TEL: 03-5826-3877 URL: http://www.gate-hotel.jp/english/

Looking down over the famous Sensouji temple and up at TOKYO SKYTREE®, a walk to the top-floor lobby of Gate Hotel Kaminarimon makes you feel like your tour around the Asakusa area is already half accomplished. The district s new face, which opened in August 2012, however, has much more to offer than the magnificent view starting with its great location which is merely a minute walk from the famous Thunder Gate (Kaminarimon) of Sensouji temple after which it is named. Located within a short walking distance from Asakusa stations serviced by 4 railway lines, the hotel proves itself convenient for sightseeing in and around Asakusa. The sophisticated interior design and décor is by Shigeru Uchida; furnished with chic tone, each guestroom adds an extraordinary pleasure to a trip yet comfortable enough to make you feel at home. The room provides a comfortable

silence for your relaxation, and once the window is open, you can feel the fresh air and action of the lively streets. Some rooms even offer views of TOKYO SKYTREE® and Sensoji through the windows. The attention to comfort extends to items in the room; the bed is by Slumberland cherished by the British Royal Family for its superior comfort. The quality of sleep is further enhanced by the hotel soft cotton pajamas and original Darjeeling-scented shampoo, items that many guests have wished to take home. A great stay at a hotel can never be complete without a great meal. Clink your glasses at the hotel s restaurant over great meals and a magnificent paranomic view over the city. For fresh air, take a terrace table or go up to the hotel guests private rooftop terrace. A sip of a charming cocktail with the view alone will sure to make it worth your stay at this outstanding hotel.

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上 野で 文 化を満 喫

U ENO

Where Culture Meets Nature

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Th fa b tu in in of to fr zo yo he m an to na

Nestled in the heart of Tokyo, the district around Ueno has flourished since the Edo period, and remained relatively unchanged despite the modernization of the city. Today s Ueno offers visitors various things to do and see in and around Ueno Park. A wonderful family holiday is ensured!

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Saigo Takamori The area around Ueno Park was originally part of a temple and once became a battlefield during the Meiji restoration. Nowadays Ueno Park has become a symbol of peace. At one corner of the park stands the statue of Saigo Takamori, an inf luential samurai during the late 19th century. It is said the dog standing next to him is as famous as Hachiko –the faithful dog- whose statue stands in front of Shibuya station.

Ueno Toshogu Shrine Toshogu is the name for any shrine in which the spirit of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of Tokugawa Shogunate, is enshrined. While there are many shrines of this kind across Japan and the most famous is in Nikko. Ueno Toshogu Shrine is unique for its Edo-style building and features many important cultural properties including the main shrines, copper lanterns, and the stone torii gate. Topping the historical heritage are the beautiful cherry and peony blossoms in spring.

Shinobazu Pond

•Address: 9-88, Ueno Park, Taito-ku •Access: 3min walk from Ueno station on JR line; 5min walk from Ueno station on Keisei line; 10min walk from Ueno station on Tokyo Metro Ginza and Hibiya line •URL: http:// www.uenotoshogu.com/ (Japanese only)

Located in the south of Ueno Park, Shinobazu pond is home to many birds, c a r ps, a nd tur tle s, a nd is also a popular spot among citizens for leisure activities. In spring, the mesmerizing cherry blossoms around the pond are a must-see. In summer, lotus flowers cover the pond into a pink and green carpet. You can even rent a boat and paddle around to enjoy the gorgeous view.

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Kyu-Iwasaki-tei Garden The garden was the property of the Iwasaki family, founder of Mitsubishi. Of all the facilities that were built, only three of them remain. The two-story, westernstyle building designed by British architect Josiah Conder, is representative of the type of architecture for the residences of British upper class. Next to it, you will find a Japanese style building and a billiard room that is rarely seen in Japan. •Hours: 9:00~17:00 •Address: 1-3-45 Ikenohata, Taito-ku, •Admission: 400 Yen •Access: 3min walk from Yushima station on Tokyo Metro Chiyoda line; 10min walk from Ueno Hiro-koji station on Tokyo Metro Ginza line; 15min walk from Okajimachi station on JR line •URL: http://teien.tokyo-park.or.jp/en/kyu-iwasaki/index.html

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The 130-year-old zoo is most famous for giant pandas. The black-and white fluffy creatures welcome you not only in their living area, but also in the gift shop, in the form of souvenirs such as stuffed toys and key rings. A par t from the cute pandas, Ueno zoo is full of exclusivities that you can only experience here! The zoo houses the first monkey mountain in Japan, and is the only place in Japan to see Aye-aye, a primate native to Madagascar.

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•Hours: 9:30~17:00 (Closed on Mondays and New Year holidays) •Addr e s s: 9 -83, Ue no Pa r k, Taito-ku •Admission: 600 Yen •Access: 5min walk from Ueno station on JR line; 10min walk from Ueno station on Keisei line; 12min walk from Ueno station on Tokyo Metro Ginza and Hibiya line •URL: http://www.tokyozoo.net/english/index.html

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I l l u m i n a t i o n -T h e F o r e s t o f Lovers This winter event has been held 11 years in a row and lasts from late November all the way to early May. Cute animal figures are warmly lit up by LED lights at the plaza close to the statue of Saigo Takamori. A great photo spot for couples and families. (The photo is from last year) •Time: 17:00~22:00, until early May •URL: http:// www.ueno.or.jp/ichioshi/index.html (Japanese only)

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Cute and Yummy Panda Sweets From toast to cupcakes, sweets and snacks featuring the image of panda can be found around Ueno.

Ameya Yokocho Ameya Yokocho, or intimately called Ameyoko, is a shopping street located beside the Yamanote Line elevated tracks. Here you can find just about any merchandise you can imagine. From fresh seafood rice bowl to clothes, accessories, military gear... you name it! The market is certainly lively and offers a frantic atmosphere that is unique in Asia. If you like to see the street in its busiest, like hectic yearend holidays when people hunt for New Year goods, go there on the weekend! •Address: 4-59 Ueno park, Taito-ku •Access: 2min walk from Ueno station on JR line and Keisei line •URL: http://www.ameyoko.net/ (Japanese only)

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Museum Hopping

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A concentration of cultural institutions in Ueno Park offers the visitors recreation and relaxation. Each museum or gallery has its own specializations and it is never boring since there are many restaurants and food stalls around, which serve to re-energize you for the next round of museum exploration!

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The National Museum of Western Art Opened in 1959 as Japan s only national institution devoted to western art, the museum exhibits works of the Impressionist painters and Auguste Rodin s sculptures, as well as works created from the Renaissance to the early 20th century. A special exhibition of Raffaello will be held from March 2 to June 2. Don t miss out the only chance in Japan to see Raffaello s masterpiece: Madonna del Granduca. •Hours: 9:30~17:30 (Closed on Mondays and New Year holidays) •Address: 7-7, Ueno Park, Taito-ku •Admission: 420 Yen •Access: 1min walk from Ueno station on JR line; 7min walk from Ueno station on Keisei line; 8min walk from Ueno station on Tokyo Metro Ginza and Hibiya line •URL: http://www.nmwa.go.jp/ en/ http://raffaello2013.com

Raffaello Santi Madonna del Granduca 505-06 ca. Oil on board, 84.4x55.9cm Galleria Palatina, Firenze ©Antonio Quattrone

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©Parroquia de San Nicolás de Bari. Toledo. Spain.

Tokyo National Museum Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum After two years of construction, the renovated Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum opened in April 2012. The items on display change frequently and vary by season, so it s a good idea to double check the exhibition calendar before visiting. A special exhibition of El Greco s works is held until April 7. •Hours: 9:30~17:30 (Closed on the 1st and 3rd Mondays and New Year holidays) •Address: 8-36, Ueno Park, Taito-ku •Admission: Varies by exhibition •Access: 7min walk from Ueno station on JR line; 10min walk from Ueno station on Keisei line; 10min walk from Ueno station on Tokyo Metro Ginza and Hibiya line •URL: http://www.tobikan. jp/ (Japanese only)

As the first of its kind in Japan, Tokyo National Museum displays a comprehensive collection of art works and antiquities from Japan as well as other Asian countries. In spring, you can enjoy cherr y blossoms in the Museum Garden, which is open from March 9 to April 14. •Hours: 9:30~17:00 (Closed on Mondays and New Year holidays) •Address: 13-9, Ueno Park, Taito-ku •Admission: 600 Yen •Access: 10min walk from Ueno station on JR line; 15min walk from Ueno station on Keisei line; 15min walk from Ueno station on Tokyo Metro Ginza and Hibiya line •URL: http://www.tnm.jp/?lang=en

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Sogakudo Concert Hall Built in 1890, Sogakudo is the oldest wooden concert hall in Japan, and was relocated to its current position for preservation in 1987. Nowadays the hall is open to the public, and concerts of various genres are organized regularly.

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•Hours: 9:30~16:30 (Closed on Mondays and New Year holidays) •Address: 8-43, Ueno Park, Taito-ku •Admission: 300 Yen for the hall; concert admission varies •Access: 10min walk from Ueno station on JR line; 15min walk from Ueno station on Keisei line; 15min walk from Ueno station on Tokyo Metro Ginza and Hibiya line •URL: http://www.taitocity. net/taito/sougakudou/ (Japanese only)

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13 Shitamachi Museum

National Museum of Nature and Science Opened in 1877, the museum focuses on the exhibition of earth, life, science and technology, and their application in human life. As the museum s motto The entrance to imagination suggests, a visit to the museum will give you a new perspective and understanding of science. •Hours: 9:00~17:00 (~20:00 on Friday; visitors are admitted until 30 minutes before closing time; closed on Mondays and New Year holidays) •Address: 7-20, Ueno Park, Taito-ku •Admission: 600 Yen; free admission for high school students and younger •Access: 5min walk from Ueno station on JR line; 10min walk from Ueno station on Keisei line; 10min walk from Ueno station on Tokyo Metro Ginza and Hibiya line •URL: http://www.kahaku.go.jp/english/

The museum exhibits the culture of Shitamachi, the common name for the area where ordinary citizens lived during the Edo period. Many unique characteristics define people s life in Shitamachi. If you are interested in history, visit here for a taste of 19th century Tokyo. •Hours: 9:30~16:30 (Closed on Mondays and New Year holidays) •Address: 2-1, Ueno Park, Taito-ku •Admission: 300 Yen •Access: 5min walk from Ueno station on JR line; 3min walk from Ueno station on Keisei line; 5min walk from Ueno station on Tokyo Metro Ginza and Hibiya line •URL: http://www.taitocity.net/taito/shitamachi/sitamachi_english/ shitamachi_english.html

Tokyo Bunka Kaikan Opened in 1961, Tokyo Bunka Kaikan is the place for Tokyoites to enjoy opera and ballet, as well as concerts. Not only is the modernistic architecture worth a visit, there are also a restaurant, café, gift shop, and a music library. •Address: 5-45 Ueno park, Taito-ku •Access: 1min walk from Ueno station on JR line; 7min walk from Ueno station on Keisei line; 8min walk from Ueno station on Tokyo Metro Ginza and Hibiya line •URL: http://www.t-bunka.jp/en/index. html

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Innsyoutei Opened in 1875, Innsyoutei is a traditional Japanese restaurant offering one of the most picturesque dining experiences in Tokyo. The dining room upstairs boasts a great view of Shinobazu pond no matter the season. Apart from the exquisite set meals offered during lunch and dinner time, the restaurant also serves bento meal boxes. That makes Innsyoutei a convenient lunch spot after visiting Ueno Park s many museums.

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•Hours: 11:00~16:00 (Lunch); 17:00~23:00 (Dinner) •Address: 4-59 Ueno park, Taito-ku •Access: 3min walk from Ueno station on JR line; 5min walk from Ueno station on Keisei line •URL: http://www.innsyoutei.jp/ (Japanese only)

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Exclusive in Ueno Zoo

From adults to children, casual visitors to animal lovers, whoever visits Ueno Zoo is guaranteed a wonderful day. Still wondering where to spend the weekend? Ueno Zoo is the best choice, anytime for everyone.

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hat s so special about this 130-year-old zoo that continues to attract adults and children from around the world? In fact, the area around Asakusa and Ueno has long been a favorite place for leisure activities since the Edo period. Especially in spring, the mesmerizing cherry blossoms around Shinobazu pond and the five-storied pagoda are a must-see. As you step inside the zoo, giant pandas LiLi and ShinShin are right there waiting for you. It is recommended to visit them first, not only because of their popularity, but also due to the fact that pandas are more active in the morning. Moreover, if you are there early enough, you may see them enjoying a feast of bamboo for breakfast or even climbing the tree! If you had an impression that animals are always lazy and sleepy in the zoo, that s because you

ride by monorail to the West Garden to see the Animals of Africa, Aye-aye Forest, the Vivarium, and the Children s Zoo. Since the animals live in an environment replicating their habitats, you get to experience the thrill of facing nose-to-nose with those amazing wildlife. Even separated by glass, the action of a lion or tiger may still frighten you a bit! With so many unique charms, Ueno is your choice for a relaxing day in nature. Information

were there at the wrong moment. Next time try to be an early bird! The zoo consists of 2 areas. In the East Garden you will find the Elephant Forest, Bear Hill, Gorilla Woods and Tiger Forest, Monkey Mountain, Polar Bear and Seal Oceans. Walk or take a short

•Hours: 9:30~17:00, ticket office closes at 16:00 (Closed on Mondays and New Year holidays) •Address: 9-83, Ueno Park, Taito-ku •Admission: Adults (16-64) 600 yen / Seniors (65+) 300 yen / Students (13-15) 200 yen / Children (0-12) Free *The admission is free on March 20 (Ueno Zoo s Anniversary Day), May 4 (Greenery Day), and October 1 (Tokyo Citizens Day). •Access: 5min walk from JR Ueno station; 10min walk from Keisei Ueno station; 12min walk from Tokyo Metro Ueno station (Ginza line and Hibiya line). •URL: http://www.tokyo-zoo.net/ english/index.html (available in 9 languages)

Make friends with animals at The Children s Zoo

Meet the one and only in Japan

he Children s Zoo features domestic animals such as sheep, goats, rabbits, and guinea pigs. Here you can play with them, accompanied by friendly staff who are ready to answer your questions about these cute creatures. Even timid children will soon be fascinated by the animals, so a happy family time is guaranteed! In the zoo you will find many baby animals such as the naughty polar bear, the clingy gorilla, and monkey babies. If you want to make the most of your visit, information on animals are provided free of charge via a mobile terminal.

sing a live video to show bears in hibernation is the first attempt in the world , said Mr. Matsuyama, the marketing manager of Ueno Zoo. Even the Monkey Mountain is the first one in Japan. Moreover, Ueno Zoo is the only place in Japan to see Aye-aye, a primate native to Madagascar, and the only place in the world to see all of the three most peculiar animals: A Giant Panda, an Okapi, and a Pygmy Hippopotamus. With so many special characters and exclusivities, Ueno Zoo, the city oasis , is not to be missed!

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The heart and soul of Japanese Hospitality For a rich understanding of Japan, simply pay a visit to Chinzanso to see nature, taste the cuisine, and experience Japanese hospitality. Let us show you.

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It is difficult to imagine that such an intoxicatingly beautiful garden exists right in the middle of Cosmopolitan Tokyo. The history of Chinzanso dates back 130 years ago, when Aritomo Yamagata, an elderly statesman in the Meiji period, built a garden that has since evolved to become today s Chinzanso. This year, a new chapter has started as Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo was reborn in January 2013. From cherry blossoms in spring, to fireflies winking their lights against the backdrop of summer greenery, and then followed by autumn foliage and winter camellias, seasonal delight are always ready to impress guests at Chinzanso. As well, the hotel caters to all of your needs. From your room, you may admire the three-storied pagoda and a view of Mt. Fuji and Tokyo skyline. Looking for exquisite cuisines, 12 dining facilities are at your service. As if all these exclusivities are not amazing enough, our unique hot spring bath with water brought from Ito offers you the ultimate in relaxation and delight. A special spring event Sakura Buffet will be held from Mar 1st to Apr 7th. Enjoy spring cuisine and scenery at the same time! There is also a garden tour reserved only for hotel guests.

5 ➊ Sakura by the three-storied pagoda. ➋ A special spring menu (5,000 Yen) is served at the halfcentury-old Mokushun-do Japanese restaurant. ➌ Let the night viewing of cherry blossoms by the Kanda river enhance your dining experience. ➍ At Café Foresta, tea and homemade sweets are served at 1,500 Yen a set. ➎ For authentic Japanese cuisine, Miyuki offers a selected menu at 9,500 Yen for adults, 7,500 Yen for seniors (65+) and 5,000 Yen for elementary school students. Simply choose what you like and enjoy in your own way!

From February to April, 90 cherry trees consisting of 20 varieties of cherry blossoms welcome you at Chinzanso. And in summer, locally bred fireflies take turns to enliven the atmosphere. As you walk in the garden, you will see adorable statues of the Seven Deities of Good Fortune made according to the sketches of a famous painter of the Edo period. Situated in one corner of the garden is the newly opened Serenity Garden, which is a sky garden covering a space of 1,500 square meters. Enjoy the charms of our nature.

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Information

•Address: 2-10-8 Sekiguchi, Bunkyo-ku •Tel: 03-39431111 •Access: 10min walk from Edogawabashi station on Tokyo Metro Yurakucho Line. There are direct limousine busses available to and from Haneda Airport and Narita International Airport. •URL: http:// www.hotel-chinzanso-tokyo.com/ WAttention Tokyo

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Japans Fine Tableware: It All Began with Noritake

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The completion of Japan s first dinnerware set.

ŠMORIMURA BROS., INC.

After Japan had opened to the west, Ichizaemon Morimura, who had been concerned with the outflow of gold from the country, took the advice of Yukichi Fukuzawa, a famous scholar of the time, and decided to start trading with the

outside world. He established Morimura Gumi in Ginza in 1876 and sent his brother Toyo to New York to start an imported goods retail store. On a visit to the World Exposition in Paris in 1889, Ichizaemon was taken by the beauty of European porcelain and nurtured the idea to manufacture fine, white western tableware in Japan and set up the company Nippon Toki Kaisha in 1904. However, the going had not been smooth, and it was ten years later in 1914 that Japan s first dinnerware set had been completed. It did not take

long for the business to take the United States by storm. The history of Noritake apparently overlaps with that of western tableware in Japan. Bone China , which has become familiar in this day and age, had first been completed in Japan by Noritake. It had instilled the smart style of traditional Japanese craftsmanship to boost tableware to the heights of art, while at the same time introducing the culture and enjoyment of western tableware to Japanese households. And today, it continues to be loved by people throughout the world.

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About 130 years ago in Ginza, amid the turmoil of the end of the Edo period. The history of Noritake began with the brothers Ichizaemon and Toyo Morimura and their love for Japan.

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The craftsmanship of the meister continues to be handed down through time.

Since its establishment, Noritake has manufactured more than 5,000 pieces of dinnerware. This dinnerware set is a series called Yoshino , its design adjusted gradually in line with the changes in the times, as well as with people s tastes, as its beauty continues to transcend over the ages.

Noritake and the Seasonal Calendar

Pictured is a masterpiece collection featuring the best of Noritake, comprising 29 pieces and priced at 12 million yen, hand-painted by the master painter. A part of the collection can be viewed at the Ginza Store.

Noritake Ginza Store •Address: Bunshodo Building 2F, 3-4-12 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo •Number of products on exhibit: Approximately 1,000 •Business hours: 11 am – 7:30 pm •Closed: Open all year (except for New Year s holidays) •Inquiries: Noritake Ginza Store •TEL: 03-35676121 •Access: 1-minute walk from A13 exit, Ginza Station, on the Tokyo Metro Ginza Line, Marunouchi Line, and Hibiya Line •URL: http://www.noritake.co.jp/ tableware/shoplist/index.html

Opened October 11 (Thu), 2012! An elegant space based on monotones, the Noritake Ginza Store of fers a wide range of g o o d s, f ro m th e d i n n e r wa re p re s e nte d by Noritake and Okura Art China to arts and crafts and the perfect gift item. The store reaches out as a flagship shop for the Noritake brand and offers select items for a quality lifestyle. 105,000 yen.

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Japanese culinary culture is rich that people can enjoy tastes of various kinds of dishes around the world. You can easily find distinctive eating places in and around Tokyo. Here we guide Tokyoite’s foodie destinations. Discover your favorite restaurants that will meet your preferences, taste and budget!

Izakaya

Tempura

Italian Restaurant

Nihon Sengyo Kokakurui Dokokai

Oosaka

Tokachi Kitchen Tokacino

Lively space and fresh seafood

Supreme Tempura Restaurant

Cozy Cucina in Marunouchi

Most izakayas, or Japanese pub, have their own characters to stand out from fierce competition, and the theme here is fish market! Decorated with boat-shaped seats and fish processing machinery, the store exudes a lively atmosphere that enlivens everyone s appetite. As implied by the name, the trademark here is reasonably priced fresh seafood directly from fish markets across the country. Served with freshly ground wasabi, seafood such as oyster, urchin, sashimi, and scallops are true delicacies you won t want to miss. Since it s open 24 hours in the hustle and bustle of the Kabukicho area, expect a party too good to end!

Tucked in an unassuming side street of Toranomon, this hidden gem will open your eyes to a culinary culture behind tempura, starting with the appetizing spectacle of head chef s polished skills over the pale wood counter. Delightfully light and juicy, and fresh out of the fryer, their tempura brings out the ingredients best quality, preserving the aroma while retaining the delicate texture; asparagus tastes juicier and sweeter, while prawns are fragrant and tender. Sample their course meal with a great selection of sake or wine to fully appreciate this culinary art at this little corner of Toranomon.

This small and cozy restaurant located within the vast Marunouchi business district offers supreme comfort. Prepared exclusively with seasonal homegrown ingredients especially from Hokkaido s Tokachi region, the dishes served at this homey restaurant is of unparallelled quality. Pick a bottle of fine Tokachi wine to accompany the chef s special course prepared with fresh catches of the day. The price is reasonable, with side dishes from 300 yen, a dinner course from 3,500 yen, and a satisfying one-plate lunch at 1,000 yen. Be sure to make a reservation before your visit to secure seats at this charming restaurant. English-speaking staff available.

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● Hours: 24 hours ● Address: 1-22-3 Kabukicho, Shinjuku-ku ● Access: 3min walk from JR and Tokyo Metro Shinjuku station; 1min walk from Seibu Shinjuku station ● TEL: 03-5287- 2568 ● URL: http://www.hamakura-style.com/

● Menu: Course menu only ● Hours: 17:30-23:00 (Monday to Friday), 17:00-23:00 (Saturdays) ● Address: Tada Building 1F, Nishi-Shinbashi 2-13-16, Minato-ku ● Access: 7 min walk from Toranomon station on Tokyo Metro Ginza Line ● TEL: 03-3504-1555

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● Lunch: 11:30 - 14:00 (LO), Sat. 12:00 - 14:00, Dinner: 17:30 - 23:00 (LO 22:00) ● Address: Kokusai Building B1, 3-1-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku ● Access: 3 min walk from Yurakucho and Hibiya stations. ● TEL: 03-3214-1007 ● URL: http://tocacino.sblo.jp

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es ly we te et!

Redefining Tokyo/esque with edginess

ツキササルトーキョー、発見!

powered by EDGY JAPAN

Creativity Called Twist-Stacking 「積み、ネジる」という創作 Hiroki Yanagisawa / EDGY JAPAN

In order to promote a product or service, people sometimes rely on a power of creativity. It surely is a hard task, but genius always comes up with a great creative solution to astonish people. (Kudos to Steve Jobs.) Here is a case study from Japan – to be exact, from a bookstore. When promoting a book of interest in a bookstore stacking of a book is one of many methods to achieve it. But a simple stacking – placing a book on the top of each other, creating a book tower – is ubiquitous and boring. It is hard to catch people s attention. But here is a surprise – by stacking AND twisting them, the whole posture looks totally different. At this particular bookstore in Tokyo, a book of the day was a Japanese translated version of The Presentation Secrets of Steve Jobs: How to Be Insanely Great in Front of Any Audience . Not so sure if this bookstore staff paid homage to the author of the book, but the way the book was presented was surely a great case study of a good presentation. But

EDGY TOK YO

Though this creative stacking is frequently found at major bookstores in Tokyo, the originator of this expression is yet to be known.

please do note – this is no Jenga. When purchasing please take a book from the very top.  商品やサービスの宣伝。その行為は時に、 「クリエイティブ」の力を必 要とする。そこでこの良い例を、日本の書店からご紹介。書店で本が目 立つように宣伝するとなると、 よくある手法として存在するのが本を「積む」 方法。しかし、普通に積むだけでは今や誰も見向きはしない。そこでとあ る書店員が考えたの「積んでネジる」ことだった。この写真にある書籍は 。そしてこの積み方はまさに「脅 「スティーブ・ジョブズ 脅威のプレゼン」 威のプレゼン」そのもの。平積みにネジりを加えて、言葉では表現しがた い造形を生み出しているのだ。

EDGY JAPAN EDGY JAPAN is a Japanese creative resource agency, introducing and connecting Japanese creative talents and products to the world in English and Putonghua. Founded in 2008 by Hiroki Yanagisawa and Yasutaka Kageyama. EDGY JAPANは日本のクリエイターを英語と中国語で紹介し、実際に海 外のクライアントとつないでいくクリエイティブ・リソース・エージェンシ ー。2008年に柳澤大樹と影山泰考により設立。

www.edgyjapan.jp @edgyjapan info@edgyjapan.jp

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When you’re feeling a little down, take a flow of extra Qi! 気を感じる東京のスポット

GET CHARGED UP: TOKYO POWER SPOT

Asakusa Shrnie

A Shrine within a Temple

A Shrine within a Temple Whenever the question what s your religious background? or what s the difference between Shintoism and Buddhism? comes up, most Japanese people have a hard time answering. While there is definitely a lack of religious knowledge, the true root of the confusion lies elsewhere; there was never a clear distinction between different religions in Japan, at least not in the way sense monotheistic religions are. One of the most interesting examples in Tokyo that illustrates this phenomenon is in Asakusa, where some 30 million annual visitors

come and pray at the glamorous red temple, Senso-ji. Few, however, seems to know that there is a humble shrine right next to the temple s grandiose Main Hall. The story behind such an arrangement reveals that Shintoism and Buddhism were in fact quite intertwined with each other throughout Japanese history. The glory of Asakusa started when two fishermen brothers, Hinokuma Hamanari and Takenari, pulled out a golden object that resembled Bodhisattva Kannnon, a Buddhist goddess of mercy, while fishing on Sumida River in 628 AD. Its value confirmed with the village s man of wisdom, Hajino Manakachi, the three built a temple dedicated to her, and devoted their lives to the temple. Several centuries later, seeing Asakusa s prosperity thanks to the temple, the three founders became deified amongst the towns people, and a shrine was built within Senso-ji s property to pay respect. Interestingly, up until Meiji Restoration in mid-1800s, Senso-ji s priests were in charge of making a daily

Discover the tolerant religious worship with loose boundaries between two main religions in Japan, Shinto and Buddhism here in Asakusa, where a temple and shrine reside in the same property!

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prayer at the shrine next to their temple. To summarize this amazing story, the famous Senso-ji (the Chinese characters used for the temple literally means Asakusa Temple) is a Buddhist temple dedicated to Bodhisattva Kannon found in Sumida River while the Asakusa Shrine was built to deify the three founders of the temple who consequently brought prosperity to the surrounding district.  「仏教と神道は何が違う?」と聞かれると困ってしまう 日本人は多いだろう。浅草の浅草寺と浅草神社の関係

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を紐解くと、もともと日本では双方がおおらかに関係を持 ちながら共存してきたことがよくわかる。観音像を祀るお 寺と、像を祀った三名を祀る神社、どちらも切っても切 れない関係なのだ。

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Architectural Treasure While the Asakusa Shrine may appear simple and modest from outside, its Worship Hall retains its original structure built in 1649, surviving the great earthquake of 1923 and WWII. In fact, after the air raid on Tokyo in 1945, this hall and nearby Nitenmon Gate were the only structures standing in a vast plain of rumbles, and are now designated as important cultural properties. The paintings in the hall have been touched up several times, and the decorative paintings of mystical animals on the walls inside and outside are vibrant as ever. Don t miss out on this 350-year old gem on your next visit to Asakusa.

Sanja Festival The energetic summer festival of Asakusa is like the heart of the entire district, binding the residents hearts tightly together while attracting millions of visitors every year. Unlike many people who mistakenly believe that the festival is of Senso-ji, it is the shrine s festival, as the name sanja (three shrines) indicating the three deities enshrined there. The original style of the festival was symbolic of the relationship between the temple and the shrine, as the three deified founders of the temple were

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Information

まう

carried out on portable shrines to the temple for an annual meeting with Bodhisattva Kannon over night. After Meiji Restoration, which forced a clear division between religions, parts involving the temple were omitted from the festival, but the festival itself remained. Whatever the story may be, no one can take away the excitement and joy of this amazing festival that paints the district with jolly beats and beautiful portable shrines engrained in the blood of the Asakusa people.

The Komainu Couple The shrine boasts four pairs of komainu , or statues of guardian dogs, of which one is a fierce looking bronze statues inside right by the alter, and the rest are more standard stone ones outside in the court yard. In particular, try spotting the cute komainu couple sitting side by side in the woods next to the Torii gate. Apparently this 300-400 year old couple bring good luck in love and relationships!

Asakusa Shrine •Address: 2-3-1 Asakusa, Taito-ku •Access: 5 min walk from Tobu Line, G i n z a L i n e a n d To e i A s a k u s a L i n e Asakusa station. • U R L : h t t p: // w w w. a s a k u s a j i n j a . j p / index_2.html (Japanese only) WAttention Tokyo

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A

S F

noritakemap2.pdf 1 2013/01/28 19:06:51

H O R T T R I R O M T O K

P Y

O

Noritake Garden

A Pleasant Encounter with Art and History A 101-minute journey on the Shinkansen bullet train brings you from Tokyo to Nagoya, where Noritake Garden is ready to impress you with top quality tableware and a relaxed afternoon.

Craft Center Ever wondered how beautiful bone china is made? Here you get to see the production process from mold production to decoration done by professional craftsmen. After admiring the craftsmanship, you may try your hand at ceramics painting at the workshop. Pick a mug or plate and then paint it in your own one-of-a-kind style! (The finished work will be mailed to you within around two weeks, and the 1,800 yen fee includes shipping to any address in Japan)

Satisfy your five senses with a journey through the world of ceramics It is fair to say the history of Western style tableware in Japan started from Noritake. Having witnessed the exquisite tableware at The Exposition Universelle of 1889 in Paris, Morimura brothers started the business in 1904 and eventually succeeded in making the first set of Western style tableware in Japan. With the purpose of exhibiting the history of Noritake, the garden was built on the premises of former Noritake factories and opened to public in 2001. Here you can see the production process of bone china; make your own piece of work; watch and listen to the interactive exhibition; and taste delicate cuisines served with Noritake tableware. Noritake Garden makes a perfect one day trip from Tokyo by using the JR pass. Moreover, Nagoya serves as the entrance to the beautifully preserved old town of Takayama in Gifu Prefecture. So why not spare some time for Nagoya when you visit Central Japan next time?

Noritake Museum The museum displays a collection of Old Noritake featuring exceptional works made from late 19th century to early 20th century. The wide collection will surely give you a new perspective on our daily dining ware.

Best-selling souvenir: the mug (2,310 yen) features the helmet of th e th re e m o st i m p o r ta nt Sengoku Lords.

A Fountain Plaza

Best-selling souvenir: a porcelain bear (3,675 yen) figure holding Kinshachi , the symbol of Nagoya Castle.

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CANVAS MorimuraOkura Museum From engine parts to insulators, the application of ceramics is wider than you can ever imagine! Apart from making tableware, the technology of dealing with ceramics is applied in many unex pe cted ways. Walk through the interactive displays and you will be amazed by the unlimited potential of ceramics.

Outlet Shop Ye s, outlet me a ns bu y ing wonderful products at special prices. The shop offers a wide selection of quality tableware and unexpected bargains. Finding high-end items sold at surprisingly low prices can be a real pleasure of shopping!

re cer at nd d d n

C

Parking lot

B Chimney Plaza

You may also tr y this in Nagoya If you fancy a trip back in time to the Sengoku period, visiting N a g o y a C a s t l e i s a m u s t- d o . Members of Nagoya Omotenashi Busho-Tai, who dress in the style of famous Lords and Samurai such as Tokugawa Ieyasu, warmly welcome you at Nagoya Castle. Be sure to pose for a picture with your favorite samurai! W e b s i t e : h t t p : // b u s h o - t a i . j p / (Japanese only)

Access •Walk: 15 minutes from JR Nagoya Station •Taxi: 5 minutes from JR Nagoya Station; costs around 500 yen •Bus: 15 minutes by Me~guru sightseeing bus, which of fers convenient one-day hop on and off Nagoya city tours at 500 yen. For more information on the sightseeing bus, check out: http://www.ncvb. or.jp/routebus/en/

Information

Fine Dining Here at Kiln restaurant you may enjoy French and Italian cuisine served in Noritake tableware. A lunch menu compl ete with a ppetize r, f ish, me at, dessert, and coffee is a steal at 3,000 yen!

•Hours: Closed on Mondays / Craft Center & Museums 10:00 ~17:00 / Shops 10:00~18:00 / Restaurant 11:30~14:30 (Lunch); 15:00~16:00 (Tea); 17:30~22:00 (Dinner) *Table reservation required •Address: 3 -1 - 3 6 N o r i t a k e - s h i n m a c h i , Nishi-ku, Nagoya •Admission: Free for most facilities; 500 yen f o r C r a f t C e n te r a n d M u s e u m •Website: http://w w w.noritake. co.jp/eng/mori/

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Useful Tips for Using Public Transport in and around Tokyo

T c

illustration/ Rena Sato

VOL.

4

Asakusa station welcomes you with its original finesse

Asakusa Station

T T n ta n a s

With a history of more than 85 years, Asakusa station was renewed to its original state in November 2012. The Renaissance style facade surely matches its history and is worth a visit. Currently, Asakusa is served by Tokyo Metro, Tobu Railway, Toei Subway, and Tsukuba Express. In this issue of Tokyo Transporter, we will introduce you to some special trains, money-saving passes, and convenient tips for using these railway lines. Get ready to start your journey from Asakusa!

Tobu Railway Though Tobu Railway mainly ser ves commuters around the Greater Tok yo and Kanto region, its vast network also gets tourists to many places of interest. If you are looking for something exceptional, a special Skytree Train takes you from Asakusa to Kinugawa Onsen on weekends and holidays. The train is equipped with window-facing suite seats and an observation salon in the front. Thus, great views along

Tokyo Metro Ginza Line The first section (between Ueno and Asakusa) of the Ginza line was completed in December 1927, and boasts the first underground railway in the Orient. Being the oldest subway doesn t mean it is outdated. The new 1000 series train entered service from Apr 2012. Characterized by retro design and the application of new technology, the 1000 series train is the modern recreation of the first generation of trains that ran on the Ginza line. Tip: While platform 1 makes a faster transfer to Toei Asakusa line, platform 2 is closer to main tourism spots such as Sensoji and Kaminarimon.

Tsukuba Express Inaugurated in 2005, Tsukuba Express is a relatively new railway line connecting Akihabara and Tsukuba. Although Asakusa station on the Tsukuba Express line is located somewhat far away from main tourism spots such as Sensoji, taking a stroll from the station allows you to admire the downtown s atmosphere. Tip: For a faster transfer to the Ginza line, take exit A2 for Tawaramachi (G-18) station.

your trip are guaranteed. Tip 1: The far end of platform 2 is extremely narrow, so you have to board from car 3 for car 1 and 2. Tip 2: For a faster transfer to Tsukuba Express, take the North exit. If you take the main exit, chances are that you will be swamped by commuters and get lost.

Money-saving passes for a short trip from Asakusa Trip 1

Nikko

To bu lin e ta ke s you to th e World Heritage sites and numerous hiking trails and hot springs in Nikko. At 4,400 Yen, All Nikko Pass offers 4 days of unlimited train and bus rides to, from, and around Nikko. It saves you at least 1,540 Yen.

Trip 2

Mt. Tsukuba

Tsukuba Express takes you to Mt. Tsukuba, one of the 100 Famous Japanese Mountains. At 4,220 Yen, Mt. Tsukuba Ticket is valid for 2 days and gets you to Mt. Tsukuba by train, bus, cable car, or ropeway.

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s, al e y a y, n ll s, ps o

Tokyo s train network: complexity vs. convenience Though traveling through Tokyo s tangled railway network may be a daunting task, the expansive network offers unrivaled accessibility. Here are some tips to help you out!

Tip 1

JR / Tokyo Metro / Toei Subway Main railway operators in Tokyo Three major railway operators serve the Metropolitan area: JR or Japan Railway Company (of which JR East serves the great Kanto region including the bullet trains), Tokyo Metro and Toei Subway. They interconnect with each other, and

Tip 2

together cover most of the central area. However, since each of them requires different tickets, transferring across different rail services ends up costly. Stick with one as much as possible if you re on a budget.

Suica / PASMO Rechargeable smart card for public transportation

so

Suica and PASMO save the hassle of buying tickets. These rechargeable smart cards are sold and recharged at ticket machines at train stations, and get you on most public transportation systems in Greater Tokyo. Although the

ke re et

Tip 3

card costs 2,000 yen including 500 yen deposit and 1,500 yen credit, you can claim back the deposit and remaining credit (minus 210 yen handling charges) at the ticket counter at the end of your trip.

Money saving day passes Must-buy for tourists who want unlimited travel for an entire day

Tip 4

If you plan to travel a lot on railways in the city, use a day pass to save money:

Child 350 yen) •Tokyo Tour Ticket (Adult 1,580 yen; Child 790 yen): 1-Day pass on all three railways.

•JR: Tokyo Metropolitan District Pass (Adult 760 yen; Child 360 yen) •Tokyo Metro: 1-Day Open Ticket (Adult 710 yen; Child 360 yen) •Toei Subway: 1-Day economy pass (Adult 700 yen;

Tokyo Metro offers international visitors extra discounts on their passes at the international terminals of Narita and Haneda Airports. •One-day: Adult 600 yen; Child 300 yen •Two-day: Adult 980 yen; Child 490 yen

Direction and transfer guide Be prepared! Get some help online. The following sites offer a convenient tool to figure out the direction to your destination. Enter the stations of the origin and destination, and they will display the

available routes, fares, required travel time and arrival time. Google Map (https://maps.google.com/) Norikae Annai (http://www.jorudan.co.jp/english/) WAttention Tokyo

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ワタシ的東京のツボ

John Williams

A teacher at Sophia University, owner of the production company 100 Meter Films, and the writer/director of the multiple award-winning film Firefly Dreams (2001). His latest film, Sado Tempest, will run from February 16th.

A restaurant with a stunning view or a secret hideaway, Tokyoites share their personal favourites with you. Stefano Kagurazaka ステファノ神楽坂

1F, 6-47 Kagurazaka Shinjuku-ku 新宿区神楽坂 6-47 1F

ジョン・ウィリアムスさん

http://stefano-jp.com/english/

上智大学講師、百米映画者オーナー兼プロデ ューサー、脚本家、映画監督。最新監督作は 佐渡で撮りおろした「Sado Tempest」 。

Eurospace ユーロスペース

1-5 Maruyama-cho, Shibuya-ku 渋谷区円山町 1-5

http://www.eurospace.co.jp/ production_e.html

LIVE HALL aube shibuya ライブホール オーブ渋谷

Tousen Udagawacho Building 5F, 4-7 Udagawacho, Shibuya-ku

渋谷区宇田川町 4-7 トウセン宇田川町ビル 5F

http://aube-shibuya.com/ (Japanese only) Shin-Edogawa Park 新江戸川公園

Stefano Kagurazaka I like Kagurazaka, the old geisha district, and if I had to pick one favorite restaurant there, it would be Stefanos, celebrating 10th anniversary this year. Stefano cooks real northern Italian dishes and is a perfectionist about ingredients and taking care of customers. Dishes I go back for: Black Tagliatele with artichoke and smoked trout, homemade sausage, Smoked Swordfish Carpaccio, sharp Italian cheese, the list goes on!

LIVE HALL aube shibuya Just opposite Tokyu Hands in Shibuya, is a grungy area with Hip-Hop clothes stores, junk shops, Vinyl shops and clubs (or Live Houses in Japanese). LIVE HALL aube shibuya resides in a building with clubs all with their own taste in rock or other edgy and interesting music. It s a great club to catch the cutting edge of Japanese rock including one of my favorite Japanese bands, Jitterbug (Jiruba in Japanese).

1-16-21 Kasuga, Bunkyoku

文京区春日 1-16-21

http://www.city.bunkyo.lg.jp/sosiki_ busyo_kouen_annai_kuritukouen_kouen_ shinedogawa.html (Japanese only)

1 大好きな神楽坂のお気に入りは、本格 北イタリア料理を楽しめるステファノ神楽 坂。素晴らしい料理とサービスで今年 10 周年を迎える。 2 神田川沿いに歩き、いつもいる亀のリク

Shin-Edogawa Park Walk along the Kanda River past the four seasons hotel, and a man who walks his 19-year old Ghanan Tortoise named Riku there almost every day, you get to a small oasis, Shin-Edogawa Park. It s beautiful in every season. I like it best when there s a thin layer of ice on the pond and see the carp through the ice. In the summer beautiful red dragonflies hover over it.

Eurospace Just up the hill from Bunkamura is one of the best art-house theatres in Tokyo, a film school and a nice café. Eurospace screens the works of award-winning international directors and the best of Japanese independent cinema, sometimes subtitled in English. From Feb 16th my new film, Sado Tempest, a rock and roll version of the Tempest, all shot on Sado Island, will run for three weeks with English subtitles.

ちゃんに挨拶したら、自然の宝庫・新江 戸川公園。池に氷の張る冬もトンボ飛ぶ夏 も、一年中美しい。 3 渋谷ハンズの向かいにある、様々なテイ ストのクラブがひしめくビルの中のオーブで は、エッジのきいた東京の最新の音楽を いち早く発見できる。 4 東京でアート系の映画を観るなら、文 化村から坂を上がったところにあるユーロ スペースへ。最新作「Sado Tempest」も

2 月16日から3 週間上映の予定。

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What's On

y, u.

March - May 2013

Festivals and events in this season

東京のお祭り、 季節のイベント

Internet Access in Tokyo 東京のネット接続事情

A lthough Japan is k nown for its technology, internet connectivity for tourists is still rather limited. T he se d ays eve n most of the budget hotels provide internet connection in each room (please note, LAN cable is still in common use, rather than WIFI). There is a free public WIFI network called FREESPOT (www.freespot. com/users/map_e.html) made up of a network of independent providers like cafes and shops, but it seems many of its spots require registration via 3G email. so this could be offputting for tourists who don't want to use expensive 3G roaming. W i 2 3 0 0(w w w.w i 2.c o.j p/ en)offers several services, including 6 hours connection for 350 yen. They have extensive instructions in English so check it out before you go out. Wireless Gate (www.wirelessgate.co.jp) offers even wider services, including one month connection for a fixed 480 yen that includes connecting spots on the Bullet train (only N700 model) and in Underground stations. Unfor tunately Wireless Gate doesn't have an English instructions page. FON network (http://maps.fon. com/?lang=en) is quite extensive throughout Tokyo and is recommended. 東京のホテルは多くが客室でのネ ット接続を提供している。街中での

0

リク

無料WIFIネットワークで有名なのは FREESPOT( www.freespot.com/ users/map_e.html)だがあまり多く ない。モバイルをよく使う人は日や 月単位で利用料を払うWIFIサービ スが便利だろう。6800ポイントを持 つWi2 300(www.wi2.co.jp/en)は

6時間350円からで英語での利用説

明が充実。ワイヤレスゲート(www.

」も

wirelessgate.co.jp)は地下鉄構内 や新幹線コンコース待合室・新幹線 N700系車両で利用できるコースを

1

Sado Tempest ① Sat - Sat, Feb 16th - Mar 9th Shakespear s Sado Tempest meets Rock n Roll and Sado Island off the coast of Niigata! Beautifully shot on the island, this picturesque film will sure to satisfy your artistic thirst! [サド・テンペスト]シェークスピアの名作テンペスト と佐渡ヶ島がタッグを組む、ロックな映画。

At Eurospace, 10 min walk from Shibuya station. http://www.eurospace.co.jp/production_e.html

Yoshino Baigo Plum Festival Sat - Sun, Feb 23rd - Mar 31st Yoshino Baigo is the area that expands 4km with 25,000 plum trees. During the festival, the area will be filled with pink and white plum flowers and their elegant fragrance. [吉野梅郷梅まつり]約2万5千本の梅がほころび、 梅郷地区が花と香りに包まれます。

In Yoshino Baigo area of Ome. 10 minute walk from Hinatawada station on JR Ome line. http://www.omekanko.gr.jp/ (Japanese only)

Bunraku! ② Mon - Sat, Feb 25th - Mar 9th Get prepared to get your mind blown by this amazing exhibition revealing the backstage and superior skills of the Bunraku puppeteers captured by photographer Hajime Watanabe. [文楽っ?]文楽の舞台裏や卓越した技を、美しい写 真で楽しむ感動必定の展覧会。

At Omotesando Gallery 5610, 10 min walk from Tokyo Metro Omotesando station. http://www.deska.jp/ (Japanese only)

Edokko Ajimeguri

月額480円からで用意。どちらも成

Fri - Sun, Mar 1st - 24th

田空港で利用できる。

Explore the wonderful Japanese culinary culture via vibrant ukiyoe! From street foods like soba and tempura to highend restaurants, the exhibition is visually delicious!

More information is available at Wattention.com WAttentionの情報をネットでも !

http://www.wattention.com/

[江戸っ子味めぐり]色鮮やかな浮世絵で知る日本の 食文化。目にも美味しい展覧会です。

At Ukiyo-e Ota Memorial Museum of Art,

2

3

2 min walk from JR Harajuku station and M e i j i j i n g u m a e s t ati o n o n To k yo M etro Chiyoda Line http://www.ukiyoe-ota-muse.jp/index-E.html

swimming up the rapids becomes a dragon. Release koi-fish to the pond to wish for children s health and progress.

Tokyo International Anime Fair 2013 Sat & Sun, Mar 23th - 24th The world s biggest anime fair filled with shops, shows and exhibitions. Many popular voice actors and anime artists as well as new and upcoming ones will be promoting their works. [東京国際アニメフェア2013]アニメ企業が多数参 加。声優や作家が参加する世界最大規模の祭典。

10:00-18:00 at Tokyo Big Site by KokusaiTenjijo-Seimon station on Yurikamome Line. Entrance fee: 1000 yen http://www.tokyoanime.jp/en/ /

Cherry Blossoms Late Mar - Early Apr Every year, the estimation of the peak of cherry blossoms is given by countless organizations, and this year, it seems to be at the very end of March to early April. Enjoy the most celebrated and loved blossoms of the year! [桜の開花]毎年発表される桜の開花予想時期によ ると、今年は三月末から四月上旬だそう。

Asakusa Yabusame ③ Sat, Apr 20th Witness the amazing skills of archers dressed in traditional warrior costumes who shoot arrows at designated targets from a dashing horse! [浅草流鏑馬]疾走する馬上から狙った的に矢を放 つ迫力の流鏑馬を、浅草で体験しよう!

13:00 - 14:30, at Sumidagawa Park, 10 min walk from Tobu Asakusa station. Tickets required. ht tp://w w w.cit y.taito.lg.jp/ index /eve nt / kanko/asakusayabusame.html (Japanese only)

Koi-fish releasing ceremony Sat, May 5th Ceremony based on an ancient Chinese legend tells koi-fish that succeeds in

[亀戸天神 出世鯉放流]中国の伝説にちなみ、子 供の健康と成長を願い心字池に鯉を放流します。

At around 10:0 0 at Kameido Te njin by Kameido station on Sobu line. ht tp://w w w.kameidotenjin.or.jp/events/ monthly02.html#0401

Shobu-yu (Iris leaf bath) Sat, May 5th Shobu-yu is a bath with iris leaves derived from Chinese medicinal bathing. Since shobu could also refer to martial spirit, it became a custom to take it on the Boys Day. [菖蒲湯]中国の湯治療法の一つ。尚武が菖蒲と同 音であることから、端午の節句の祝いとして用いら れるお風呂の入り方。

Public bathhouses around Tokyo (the date and time may vary). Entrance fee: around 450 yen. http://www.1010.or.jp/index.php

Sanja Festival Fri, Sat & Sun, May 17th, 18th, 19th The biggest and one of the most exciting festivals in Asakusa. Don t miss the beautiful mikoshi (portable shrines) parades that go around different neighborhoods and the pure energy of the local! [三社祭]浅草神社をはじめとするさまざまな神社の 神輿が練り歩く、浅草最大のエネルギッシュなお祭。

http://www.sanjasama.jp/ (Japanese only)

2013 May Grand Sumo Tournament Sat - Sun, May 12th - 26th O n e o f t h e 3 ( J a n u a r y, M a y a n d September) annual professional sumo tournaments held in Tokyo. Truly powerful matches can only be experienced live! [大相撲5月場所]東京で行われる3つの相撲大会(1 月、5月、9月)のうちの一つ。

Tickets will be available starting Sat, April 7th. The tournament will be at Ryogoku Kokugikan by Ryogoku station on JR Sobu line and Toei Oedo line. http://www.sumo.or.jp/eng/index.html

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Gurunavi Navigates You

through the Japanese Culinary Culture

The contribution of Japan s largest restaurant search engine, Gurunavi, expands beyond their useful online search tool. In order to support Japanese culinary culture to flourish, they educate the consumers about food, history and manners to develop the future of Japanese gourmet culture.

Master those Sticks! The multifunctional cutlery: chopsticks One of the common features of Asian cuisine, whether it s Chinese, Vietnamese or Japanese, is its cutlery; chopsticks. These two little sticks are truly versatile as cutlery evident in their wide usage, working as a fork to pick up food as well as a knife to cut food into bite sizes. Although the basics of their use are similar across countries, there are different mannerisms in each country, including Japan. Take a look at the list below to master the good manners and taboos regarding chopsticks use in Japan to enjoy Japanese cuisine to the fullest!

Manners & Taboos • Have the tips close together at all times. • If you want to put down your chopsticks, Put it on chopsticks rest (hashi-oki) If there is no hashioki, put the tips on a small dish In both cases, make sure that the tips are not facing your company, especially a senior. Make sure that the chopsticks are lined with each other. Put them down when you need to take something or at the end of the meal.

Useful Phrases Seasonal Goodies 1

March

∼ありますか(∼ arimasuka). 。

かぶ (kabu): Turnip 菜の花 (nanohana): Tenderstem broccoli さより(Sayori): Halfbeak たい (tai): Snapper でこぽん (dekopon): Dekopon orange

Do you have ~? Example:

フォークありますか (Fohku arimasuka) ?

Is there a fork?

April

2 ∼をください(∼ o kudasai).。 Please give me ~. Example:

スプーンをください (Supuhn o kudasai) 。

• Don t stick them on a bowl of rice (this means a meal for the dead) • Don t pierce food to eat (always grab the food by pinching it between the sticks) • Don t swing them around • Don t lick them excessively • Don t use them to move dishes

Please give me a spoon. *Let s put the names of seasonal food in ~ to order them!

キャベツ (kyabetsu): Cabbage 山菜 (sansai): Various wild mountain vegetables しらうお (shirauo): Icefish あさり(asari): Asari clam いちご (ichigo): Strawberries

May たけのこ (takenoko): Bamboo shoots そらまめ (soramame): Fava beans あじ (aji): Horse mackerel ほたるいか (hotaruika): Firefly squid

Check out more information on Gurunavi s Englis website: http://www.gnavi.co.jp/en/

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