News
Shoe line will complement bag collection FASHION label Urban Code has launched an all-leather women’s footwear line for autumn/winter. The brand is hoping to attract customers and stockists with a range that complements its existing bag collection as well as standing out in the current market. Ian Porter, the label’s technical shoe designer, said: “Moving into footwear was a natural progression for us because of our experience in manufacturing quality leather products, and we have been developing these new designs for some time.
UK visitors help shows remain brisk ...
and Ireland.
WITH the show season now over – at least for a few months – organisers have been reporting fairly successful events, with visitor numbers being maintained, if not improved on.
The brand’s bag ranges are sold at a selection of independent boutiques as well as in smaller chains and many buyers have already expressed an interest in taking on the footwear line as well. Ian added: “We think that one of the brand’s unique selling points will now be the combination of bags and shoes offered. “It will give boutiques a great opportunity to stock both lines, which complement each other, but can just as easily be sold separately.
“We were keen to make the product unique through our ‘all-leather’ concept as well as using our expertise to bring in new colours, technologies and innovations.”
“I am sure it will be a selling point and I think stores will also be encouraged by the fact that economies of scale may mean we can offer discounts on both collections.”
The collection launched at Barcelona’s Bread and Butter and is being targeted towards buyers in Europe and Japan as well as the UK
A new website is due to launch that will allow both trade buyers and consumers to purchase the range online.
He added: “We are looking forward to getting lots of feedback on this first collection so that we can keep improving the brand and create exactly what our customers want. “Although we are aware of the current financial climate, we have found that there is always a market for quality, well made products, so we are confident that the line will continue to be well received. “Eventually we may also diversity into men’s footwear, continuing with the all leather theme – I believe the demand is there and our expertise can be used to create another popular range.”
GDS fulfils expectations THE Düsseldorf shoe fairs, GDS and Global Shoes, have reported successful three-day shows with over 31,000 visitors. However, these numbers were six per cent down on last year’s event, with organisers blaming the current economic climate for the drop. Werner Matthias Dornscheidt, president and CEO of Messe Düsseldorf, said: “Over the past year the situation in the international shoe business has significantly changed. “In light of the current circumstances we can be more than satisfied with the outcome of the trade fair.” Nearly half of the show’s visitors came from abroad,
with the UK, Austria, Italy and France best represented and 85 per cent believed that they had seen the latest trends in the industry at the exhibition. Ralph Rieker, chairman of the Central Federation of the German Shoe Industry, said: “GDS has shown that the sector needs a constant in difficult times and despite all the in-depth conversations and discussions, retailers did not fail to place orders in Düsseldorf. “GDS has entirely fulfilled the expectations of the German shoe industry considering the overall economic climate and now the three days of trade fair are behind us, together we can build on it.”
The conclusion reached by most is that a drop in overseas buyers can be blamed on the current financial climate and a reluctance to spend on travel costs. However, this has been made up for by an increase in quality UK visitors who, while cautious, are still willing to spend on the right products for the right price. Despite this, plenty of new brands are coming onto the market and retailers are having to decide whether to gamble on fresh designs to bring in the curious consumers or to stick with the old favourites that guarantee sales – why not let us know what’s working for you? This issue we meet retailers the Jackson twins, whose wide-ranging international projects help them stock the best quality, ethically sourced shoes and accessories, and designer Rachel Simpson shows off her new, vintage inspired, bridal footwear collection. Finally our men’s footwear section features celebrity favourite Tim Little, and in Access Accessories we get the latest news from one of the world’s oldest luxury luggage labels, GlobeTrotter.
3 ISSUE 51 FEBRUARY/MARCH 2009
Contents COVER STORY
Issue 52 April/May 09 New mindset for Cat brand Shoes fit for a princess
NEWS
4 5
Sales Tony Barry - Sales & Marketing Director Beverley Green - Sales Manager (bg@whpl.net)
Karrie-Anne Nowell - Sales Executive (kn@whpl.net)
Boost for struggling students
NEWS
6
Advertising Contacts Tel: 01226 734333 | Fax: 01226 734477
Editorial
8
ACCESSORIES
New designs for luggage label
SHOWCASE
Brand heads for Dubai
24
SPOTLIGHT
The exclusive touch
23
Editorial Contacts Tel: 01226 734694 | Fax: 01226 734705 Email: lcordell@whpl.net
COMMENT
Issue of the issue
28
Design & Production
Andrew Harrod - Group Editor Judith Halkerston - Group Deputy Editor Nicola Hyde - News Editor Louise Cordell - Editor Christina Eccles - Reporter Mary Ferguson - Reporter
Stewart Holt - Studio Manager (sth@whpl.net)
RETAIL REVIEW
Twins with a social conscience
29
Kyle Wilkinson - Design & Production (kw@whpl.net)
Circulation 01226 734695 (24 hour hotline) Email: circulation@wharncliffepublishing.co.uk
More than a campaign ... THE new AW09 collections from Cat Footwear embrace a new mindset for the brand. The new ranges continue to use the best leathers as is tradition in Cat Footwear's heritage, but innovative design and intricate detailing play a greater part this season leading to styled, on-trend footwear still retaining the essential Cat attributes that are expected from us. The full collection is inspired by an array of trends including Artisan – for the nostalgic look, styles that are both timeless and durable; Dark – both in mood and in colour, this trend reflects the gritty sophisticated dark urban trend; Active – an upbeat trend with bright colours and futuristic styling; and Winter – inspired by chunky cable knits and lumberjack plaid, think comfort and warmth. The new Cat Footwear vision for AW09 is encompassed by a distinctive new creative campaign, Earthmovers, to be launched to the consumer late summer 2009. It represents the new sentiment and brand direction for Cat Footwear. Earthmovers is more than a campaign. The business is changing culturally, creatively and strategically. With a new and diverse product range from new designers, Cat Footwear aims to engage and attract a new and larger
consumer audience. Earthmovers supports and visually defines this movement, designed to turn consumers’ and retailers' heads alike, challenging their perception of the brand. The concept builds on the literal machine heritage of moving the Earth and moving it into an emotive empowering statement. We use a visual language that is a natural fit for Cat Footwear. The seemingly surreal ads are part of a new tone of voice for Cat Footwear as they move from a brand of old to a brand for the future. Cat Footwear is a division of Wolverine World Wide, Inc with global headquarters in Rockford, Michigan (U.S.) and European headquarters in Kings Place, London, U.K. Cat Footwear is a global licensee of Caterpillar Inc. With a commitment to service and product excellence, Wolverine World Wide Inc is one of the world's leading marketeers of branded, high profile
footwear comprising an impressive portfolio of brands including Hush Puppies, Merrell, Patagonia and Sebago, distributed internationally in over 140 countries. For further information contact customer services at Cat Footwear on 020 7860 0100
News
Shoes fit for a princess By Louise Cordell A LUXURY footwear designer whose client list includes a Saudi Arabian princess is set to open her first London boutique. Aruna Seth graduated from the London School of Fashion and launched her own footwear line in 2006. She offers a bespoke design service as well as a ready-to-wear collection and travels between her showrooms in London and Moscow for her personal appointments. She said: “I want to make shoes that the client loves as much as I do. When I design I try to incorporate everything that appeals to me, from the classic styles to the eye catching crystals. “I also enjoy working with clients on a one to one basis and creating a real investment piece something that they will appreciate for many years. “People love exclusivity and the idea of having a design no one else does - and I can provide that.” Aruna creates a wide range of shoes including flats and sandals as well as evening and bridal wear.
One of her most famous creations is the Cinderella shoe which is covered with Swarovski crystals and costs £2,300, but others in the collection retail from £200. She added: “My motto is to always work with the best quality materials and I have never been tempted to lower my standards, because then people will no longer be getting the luxury product they want. “I have worked with many clients, from a Saudi Arabian princess to everyday women who just love fabulous shoes – so this quality applies to customer service too – if someone is spending up to £2,000 on an investment piece then they want to feel special.” The new boutique is due to open in Chelsea at the end of July and will offer the latest ready to wear styles as well as providing a venue for Aruna’s bespoke appointments. The new collection features several updated designs in new colours including gold, blush and silver, as well as best selling classics and black, brown and nude. Aruna added: “I like to stick with classic styles that I know work well and update the materials and
Nell McAndrew has teamed up with ASICS to launch its new footwear collection and latest fitness campaign. The aim of the ‘Walk Your Way’ scheme is to encourage women across the UK to get walking in the streets, hills and parks around the UK in order to get fitter this summer. The new ASICS walking footwear range has been designed specifically for women and to help mums and young women to start enjoying exercise. The collection features three styles, Gel Kayano Walker, Gel Nebrasker and Gel Blackhawk, and each has a unique design to cater for every walkers fitness level.
Aruna Seth
embellishments I use to keep them fresh. “Because my clients see the shoes as investments I don’t design anything too trend led as I don’t want the look to date – people want to be able to wear them, and for them to look great, anytime.”
Brand to target mainstream clientele ETHICAL footwear brand Bourgeois Boheme is set to launch a new marketing campaign targeting mainstream fashion customers. The company plans to raise its profile by sponsoring the Roving Ethical Catwalk at the Natural History Museum where models will wear Bougeois Boheme shoes and exhibiting at the ethical fashion Esthetica show, organised by the British Fashion Council. Brand founder, Alicia Lai, said: “We have seen a dramatic shift in our customer base and it is clear that the traditional, mainstream shopper is looking to make a more ethical choice when it comes to fashion, especially shoes. “This season we are expanding the range to include new styles, new materials and increased choice to match the desires of our expanding audience. “The styles are as diverse as our customers but we have remained true to our ideology, which is that no one should feel excluded from making a fashion choice.”
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News
A boot for all occasions AUSTRALIAN company RM Williams has reported growing interest in a bespoke boot service at its London store. The brand creates a range of footwear in materials from crocodile and ostrich to kangaroo and camel, with each design created from just one piece of leather. Hamish Turner, company CEO, said: “I think the bespoke boot service is popular because people like to create a one-off design for themselves, something individual with their personal touch that they will hang on to for many years to come. “At last count we had over four million style options for the boots – taking into account all the different combinations – so we can literally create a boot for any occasion. “We always try to cater for any request – but the most unusual has been for a pair of tuna-skin boots. “The customer had even sent the tuna skin in with the request – but unfortunately the boots could not be made
in the end because the skin shriveled too badly in the heat during the blocking process.” The brand’s celebrity fans include Bill Clinton, Nelson Mandela and Bruce Springsteen and its boots have recently appeared on the big screen in Baz Luhrmann’s latest epic, ‘Australia’. The company also offers ‘in factory’ resoling, re-heeling and re-lasting and can provide new linings and elastics -– which is a very popular option, especially in the current financial climate. Hamish added: “Our boots are made to last - so people have them for a very long time and grow very attached to them. They are almost ‘friends’ to their owners and so they would rather have their older, broken in boots repaired – which they can then wear for many more years – than buy a whole new pair.”
Boost for struggling students A NEW scholarship has been introduced for the Royal College of Art’s fashion footwear course to help talented students that are struggling financially. The first person to benefit is Chau Har Lee from London, a second year Masters student specialising in women’s fashion footwear. She said: “I had to work throughout the first year of my course and had found it hard to juggle my time and resources. “But getting the scholarship has really helped as it has allowed me to completely focus on the lead up to my final show.” The scholarship is sponsored by Daniel Rubin, Dune executive chairman and Richard Paice, president of Footwear Friends, who were impressed by Chau’s commitment to a career in the industry. After completing a footwear BA at Cordwainers in 2002, she worked for a range of footwear, accessories and interior design companies, including a period as a production assistant at Nicole Farhi. She also put her expertise to good
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use teaching short courses in beginners’ shoe making, but was keen to get back to designing her own collections. Chau’s recently completed designs use unconventional materials including plastic, metal and wood, each created using a unique production process. She said: “I wanted to create structures that had a unique strength and aesthetic. “The ideas came from learning the processes of making a tailored jacket and mixing that with engineering concepts. “I looked at silhouettes and designers like Pierre Cardin and Balenciaga for inspiration as well as referring to architecture and principles of structure. “I wanted to experiment with different materials that would provide the strength and flexibility needed in a shoe as well as giving a modern and sophisticated feel.” The financial support from the scholarship has helped Chau to out source some elements of production, as well as working alongside students from other college departments like fashion
Richard Paice and Daniel Rubin with Chau Har Lee
and jewellery design to come up with new ideas. She now plans to continue her design work after graduating in July and eventually hopes to create her own footwear label. She added: “It has been a great opportunity for me, and I hope it will be for others in the future too. “The more people that benefit
from something like this the better, because I think students often have to compromise, either in terms of the time spent or the cost of materials used because of work and money constraints. Having the scholarship has allowed me to experiment more and push the boundaries of my designs further than I would ever have been able to otherwise.”
Accessories The Globe-Trotter’s brand has been one of the biggest names in luxury luggage since Sir Edmund Hilary used its bags while conquering Everest in 1951. Louise Cordell asks why – for the first time in 112 years – it is set to launch some new designs.
The world’s lightest suitcase
Luxury luggage packs a punch GLOBE-TROTTER’S handmade suitcases have been carried by everyone from Winston Churchill and Queen Elizabeth to Daniel Craig and Kate Moss. Now the brand is set to attract even more attention as, for the first time in its 112-year history, it is set to launch some all-new designs. An in-house studio has been set up to develop a series of new collections including soft luggage, small leather goods and a ladies’ handbag range. Brand manager Gary Bott, said: “This is a very exciting time for us – we are currently in the very early stages of the design process and hope to have the product samples ready by September.
in 1897 with the aim of creating a suitcase that was strong, but light and simple. A new collection is produced each season although there are only ever three alterations made to the core design – changing the exterior colour or print, changing the colour or type of the leather trim and changing the colour of fabric of the lining. Gary added: “It is very easy to completely transform the look of the case with just a few changes and there are so many interesting options out there. “For example we have been working with Beatrix Ong and Natasha Law on a special new lining print for the AW09 collection.
“At the moment we are deciding whether we need to come up with ways to translate the Globe-Trotter identity into these new lines, or to create a whole new identity for these new products.
“We are often approached by designers who want to do something with our product – in the past we have had up to seven wanting to come on board in just one season.
“It is all part of expanding our retail operations, because until now we have focussed almost completely on the larger department stores.
“But we are always very careful to select just the right people because any collaboration has to be completely relevant and just the right fit for the brand.”
“This is because many of our suitcases are fairly large and shop floor space is at a premium in the smaller boutiques. “However, these smaller pieces will make merchandising much easier and give us a chance to move into the smaller, high end stores around the country.” The company was originally founded
One of these collaborations, with industrial designer Ross Lovegrove, created a ‘next generation’ suitcase in a newly developed material, which was given the title of the world’s lightest suitcase – a carry-on size bag that weighs just 1.4kg. This has been so popular that the company is now planning on developing a second edition of that range to keep up with demand. Gary added: “It has been great to see that in the last five years the brand has really experienced something of a revival, especially internationally. “The bags have a niche appeal because of their unique character and because the business has been built on maintaining standards.
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Erden Massine Sky silk lining ISSUE 52 APRIL/MAY 2009
“Our British heritage is very appealing as I think is the fact that we have maintained our integrity and are still hand manufactured in the UK.”
Accessories
Device stops that sinking feeling Advertiser’s Announcement
Alison models the product
A DEVICE to prevent stiletto heels sinking into the mud at outdoor events is gaining popularity thanks to new designs and a celebrity following. Heel Stoppers by Clean Heels fit on to the bottom of a stiletto to increase its surface area and prevent the wearer from sinking into grass, getting their shoe caught in pavement cracks or damaging hard floors. Invented by Alison Stephenson in 2006, the product is distributed by Clean Heels Distribution Ltd and managing director Adrian O’Nion said people buy them to use at weddings, the races and outdoor concerts. “People are even buying them to wear every day now as they are a great way of protecting heels from damage. What started off as a product aimed at quite a niche market has really exploded into the mainstream.” The stoppers are available in clear or black, or with flower patterns or jewels. Retailed at £4.99, £7.99 and £9.99 respectively and with a 40-50 per cent profit margin, they are stocked in three major department stores as well as 250 independent UK retailers.
Deals in Australia, America, Dubai and Europe are taking the product worldwide and a number of high profile celebrities are becoming fans. A point of sale pack comes free with each order. Adrian said: “The demand for the stoppers is just phenomenal and in February, we did more business than in the whole of 2008.” The company is in the process of developing a diamante stopper and is in talks with a breast cancer charity to launch a joint design later in the year. Last year, Adrian appeared on The Chris Evans Show to talk about the products after the presenter saw them at a Cartier Polo event. Other celebrities requested samples and business is now booming. He said: “There is a company doing something similar in Europe but their designs are bolder and we have found that in the UK, people want discretion – they want the product but don’t want to shout about it.” Adrian added that although they all sell equally well, people tend to buy the more intricate designs for special occasions such as weddings.
Adrian O’Nion
For more details contact Adrian O’Nion on 0845 862 1419 or email adrian@chdistribution.co.uk. Website: www.chdistribution.co.uk
Stylish and feminine jewellery for all seasons RONIN’S philosophy is to produce stylish and feminine fashion jewellery that will be worn and treasured for more than one season. Using semi-precious gemstones, pearls and glass all in fascinating colours, patterns and textures to create beautiful handmade jewellery, pieces are designed to be easy to wear with new ranges introduced throughout the year. Ronin are proud of their ‘Handmade in Wales’ status and believe that an ethical approach is increasingly important to consumers. We are still attractively priced with trade prices £3.55 to £10.95.
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The new ranges for Spring ’09 are ‘Bliss’ which uses hand blown glass with smoky quartz and rock crystal, ‘Denim’ using Sodalite & pearls and ‘Titian’ using Tigers Eye and Amazonite. For more information visit: www.roninjewellery.co.uk or call: 01269 826000.
Kool for kids Baby shoe brand Inch Blue has launched its first ever range of sheepskin booties. They have been created in honour of the brand’s Welsh ancestry and are designed and produced in the company’s workshop in Wales. Named Cwtches – Welsh for ‘hugs’ – the booties are sourced from stitched, natural sheepskin and fastened with Velcro.
The new collection from Living Kitzbühel has been extended to include soft leather shoes with leather lining and insoles. Also featured are new sporty slippers in a canvas look, with zip, velcro or elastic closures. The brand is well known for attention to detail with handmade appliqués and embroideries including teddy bears, princesses, glitter and diamantes on each pair of slippers.
Small shoes could cause deformities MANY young children could be at risk of serious foot deformities caused by wearing shoes that are too small, according to a new study. New research, presented at this year’s American Academy of Orthopaedic Surgeons, has highlighted the difficulties caused by wrongly sized footwear. The Swiss study was carried out on nearly 250 boys and girls aged from five to ten. Researchers measured their feet as well as their indoor and outdoor footwear to find out how many were wearing properly sized shoes. They also compared these footwear measurements to the sizes given on the manufacturers’ labels to see if the shoes were correctly marked. Finally they calculated the angles of the children’s big toes to discover whether any of them were developing a foot deformity called hallux valgus which leads to bunions and is caused by tight shoes. Norman Espinosa, an orthopaedic surgeon at the University of Zürich Balgrist in Switzerland, said: “The most striking finding in our study was that more than 90 per cent of both outdoor and indoor shoes worn by the children were too small. “And, interestingly, the shoe sizes
given by the manufacturers almost never matched with the true sizes measured by our group.” Results revealed that over 52 per cent of outdoor shoes and over 60 per cent of indoor shoes were too small and, when compared to the size marked on the shoe, over 90 per cent of both were smaller than the stated size. The study also found that the prevalence of hallux valgus amongst the children in the study was higher than had been found before in any previous research. Dr Espinosa added: “We truly did not expect such a large percentage of incorrectly declared show sizes. “We now know that we should focus on parental education to help prevent the early onset of juvenile foot deformity.” He advised parents to measure their children’s feet every time they purchased new shoes, as well as checking the actual size of the shoe rather than just the number marked on the box. He also suggested they check the fit of all their kids’ shoes every month, especially during a growth spurt, as many children will outgrow their shoes well before they are worn out.
New products have been introduced for Robeez’s spring/summer 09 collection with the complete portfolio, including Soft Soles, Mini Shoez and Tredz, now on show. Almost 100 new designs are now available across the three feature products including new materials, added details and new patterns. Susan Vann, Robeez general manager, said: “In just two years we have built on the popularity of our Soft Soles and expanded into an entire portfolio. “We now have a complete range of products that meet all functional and fashion needs for young children.”
Children’s brand Babyshoes.co.uk has one of the biggest, instock, continental baby shoes collection in the UK. They company stock over 40 styles in over 15 colours, offer next day delivery and have no minimum order. For more information on your nearest showroom contact Trevor on 0151 2803049.
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$'9(57,6(5·6 $11281&(0(17
Making fitting shoes child’s play Children grow, and every time they need a new pair of shoes, they have to be measured again. This takes time, and time is something we are all short of. It is not very satisfactory for customers either - standing in a long queue waiting to be served at Back to School is not retail therapy for a Mum or a child. Toe Zone makes fitting children’s shoes simple and quick. If even allows for self service. Built into the sole of each shoe is a unique gauge. Simply by placing the shoe against the child’s foot, a mum can see if the shoes are Too Big, Too small, or in the Toe Zone...just right.
It is quick and easy Mums love it, because they can see for themselves that they are buying suitable shoes. They can also check how quickly the child’s feet are growing so they know when to come back and buy a new pair. So next time you cannot find the foot gauge or you have customer waiting to be served....remember Toe Zone, it makes fitting shoes child’s play. Every Toe Zone shoe has been designed on UK lasts with 13mm growing room included. The lasts are wide fitting to accommodate the majority of children. The shoes are designed to be durable and comfortable, using mixtures of leather and man made materials. For more information go to www.toezone.co.uk
News
Award for ‘treasure trove for trainer aficionados’
Two hundred new exhibitors at Moda THE first Moda of 2009, held at Birmingham’s NEC, maintained high visitor numbers and attracted new brands.
Visiting buyers had travelled from around the world including France, Australia, Spain, Sweden, Germany, America, Japan and Hong Kong.
There were 200 new exhibitors including Uldahl, Rocket Dog, WLM and Roberto Botello which reported a particularly strong day on Sunday, with visitor numbers up on the previous season.
Tony Greenfield, Rocket Dog Brands International MD, said: “We exhibited for the first time and were impressed with the organisation of the show and the number of visitors exceeded our expectations.
Sarah Moody, Moda Woman event director, said: “As an organiser we are always looking at how we can best respond to the needs of the market, and the new initiatives we introduced to the show this season, including our investment in a new look and layout, have been very well received.”
“Both new and repeat customers visited the stand and placed orders for the AW09 footwear collections.” Christina Kehoe, Steilmann general manager, added: “Buyers have been more cautious this season, but we have had a positive response to the collection and opened new accounts.”
By Louise Cordell
colourways and modern materials.
AN internet shoe company has been named Drapers Etailer of the Year just 12 months after launching.
“I think a lot of people have a more sentimental connection with their trainers than with any other type of footwear - and people love to have the experience of rediscovering shoes that they used to love, but with a brand new twist.”
SoleHeaven sells hard to find and exclusive sneakers to trainer devotees and was set up by former investment banker Dale Parr last year. He spotted a gap in the market after visiting New York and seeing the huge selection of footwear available there that never made it to the UK. He said: “I had developed a passion for trainers as a teenager in the 90s, so I was really excited to see the amazing choice on sale in America. I was so convinced there was a gap in the market over here for a wider range of more unusual styles that I had the site set up within three months.” Judges described the site as ‘a treasure trove for trainer aficionados’ and the range Dale offers has more than doubled since the launch. He added: “I do all my own buying – so in order to keep on top of what’s popular and what works, I seem to spend a lot of time walking around looking at people’s feet. “I try to stay away from mainstream trend – because we are really about more traditional, heritage designs, but with changes like unusual
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ISSUE 52 APRIL/MAY 2009
SoleHeaven is providing shoes for the Sneaker Seeker project at Slough Young People’s Centre, which brings in trainer designers to teach the kids how to customise and paint their own footwear. The sessions are set to continue with a range of designers over the next few months, leading up to an exhibition of the new designs to show off their achievement. Dale added: “It is a unique project and all the kids involved have been completely enthralled by it, because it is teaching them valuable skills and giving them something to work towards. “Hopefully we will get to the point where it can be offered to every council in the area and maybe eventually nationwide. It’s great because it is fostering their passion for footwear and giving them ideas.” The British seaside is the inspiration for Schuh’s spring/summer 09 campaign – Summer in a Box. The images for the campaign were shot at the recently restored Victoria Baths in Manchester and feature a variety of typical summer time scenes including a woodland picnic, traditional seaside and English garden. The pictures will be used throughout Schuh’s 54 stores as well as on their website and will form the centrepiece of a window display in the brand’s Oxford Street store. Life sized mannequins in doll boxes and art deco prints of seagulls, clouds and trees are also being used to coordinate with the in-store points of sale.
Licensing deal signed KURT Geiger has signed a five-year licensing deal to design, develop and distribute a footwear collection for premium handbag and accessories brand Radley. The Radley footwear collection will debut for spring 2010 and will be sold via Kurt Geiger's network of stores and concessions as well as being wholesaled. Radley will also stock the collection in its stores and will sell it to selected stockists of its handbags. Kurt Geiger has confirmed the deal is part of its strategy to build a strong portfolio of brands – and it already has the licences for French Connection and Nicole Farhi footwear. Radley has sales of more than £60m and is the market-leading handbag brand in the UK. It is sold through a network of department stores, including Debenhams and House of Fraser, as well as in independent retailers. Kurt Geiger now plans to draw on its in house design team to create the new styles and has also hired Barbara Paleka, a buyer from footwear supplier Browning Group, to oversee the new Radley range.
Dale is now also focussing his attention on a scheme to pass on his love of trainers to local kids.
Fila announces concept store in Milan ITALIAN sportswear brand Fila has announced the opening of its first European flagship store in Milan.
collection as well as limited edition lines and other exclusive products.
The concept store will stock both the Fila Vintage and Fila Gold collections and the co-branded Fila-Wimbledon footwear
The outlet is set to open this month, with plans already in place to open more stores across Europe in the near future.
Luca Bertolino, Fila EMEA marketing director, said: “We believe this exciting first for Fila will give us the opportunity to bring to consumers the style that Fila is famous for as well as the lifestyle direction the brand is headed in.”
News
Largest ever Pure London pulls in visitors VISITOR numbers to the biggest ever Pure London show rocketed by 4.25 per cent, according to statistics. The footwear section of the show included a new area dedicated to Italian brands and UK buyers who attended included Fenwick, Harvey Nichols, Harrods, Selfridges and House of Fraser. Sarah Lawrence, Pure London’s event director, said: “This was the largest ever Pure London in the 25 seasons the show has been running, with over 900 brands on show. “Considering the market and retail climate, and with other industry shows experiencing falls in their numbers, to have our overall visitor attendance up by 4.25 per cent year on year is an amazing achievement.” Overall UK attendance was up by 8.7 per cent, but international attendance was slightly down as a results of reduced travel budgets. However, buyers still attended from Ireland, Spain, Germany, Italy, France, Belgium and Turkey as well as the USA and Japan. Morten Roed Simonsen, export manager at Danish brand B.Young, said: “There has been a big change in the type of retailers attending
Belen Donate at Pure
trade fairs. “In the past there were 50 per cent browsers and 50 per cent of visitors were seriously looking for new brands. “Now I would say about 90 per cent of the people here today are here to be active and just 10 per cent are browsers for trends – and this shift means there is potentially more business. “I believe it is important to exhibit so your customers know you are a strong company that will be able to deliver orders in tough times.”
A range of brands received recognition at this year’s IFRA awards, held at Moda at the NEC. Rieker were named as the Best Ladies’ brand, Padders as the Best Men’s brand for the third year running and Startrite as the Best Children's brand. Gardiner Brothers received an award for Best Service and Customer Relations and the IFRA Personality of the year was Eugenio Leijten, executive director of Retail Technology Ltd.
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Lifestyle
Strike blamed for drop in visitors THE world’s largest sporting goods trade show, ispo, celebrated its 69th event in Munich this year.
Conference dealing with footwear advice FOOT Health 2009, a conference dealing with footwear advice and the implications of wearing ill-fitting footwear to work, is set to take place in June. The event will be held at the Kettering Conference Centre and has been organised following the publication of the TUC’s ‘Working Feet and Footwear’. The conference will be chaired by members of the UK National Footwear Standards Scheme and will open with a presentation by Professor Welsey Vernon. Jeremy Walker, deputy podiatry manager at Sheffield PCT will produce case studies of outcomes of ill fitting foot wear, followed by Laura West of the Society of Shoe Fitters, who will give advice on fitting criteria and giving effective advice. Finally, Gordon Burrows who is a corporate member of the Institute of Occupational Health and Safety will talk about the foot in the workplace.
Visitor numbers were down on previous shows, with just over 60,000 attending, but this was attributed to a strike by the city’s transportation authority that coincided with the event. However, 66 per cent of visitors had travelled from abroad and 83 per cent of the brands were from outside the country. Manfred Wutzlhofer, chairman of Management Messe München GmbH, said: “We are pleased that ispo winter 09 enjoyed such a positive result despite the rather muted economic forecasts. “Many manufacturers invested in the development of new products and
industry visitors were open to the new trends, products and collections and expressed a lot of interest.” Show organisers also reported an
increase in the quality of UK and Irish visitors and UK companies were also able to exhibit as part of a newly branded group area for the first time as part of a special outdoor communications programme.
Competition organisers seek prize contributions CONTRIBUTIONS are being requested for this year’s International Golf Championship of the Shoe, Leather and Allied Trades. The competition is due to take place at Slaley Hall in Northumberland on 17 to 19 June with the aim of raising money for shoe trade charities. The society was formed in 1946 and has raised over £350,000, and this year
anyone with a handicap certificate is welcome to join in the national event. Organisers are also looking for prize contributions, or donations to buy prizes, preferably to reach
them no later than 1 May, and all money raised will go to the shoe trade charities. Anyone wishing to take part in this year’s competition should send in their entries by 6 April and more information is available at www.shoeandleathergolfinternational.co.uk. For information on donating prizes or cheques contact Nick West on nhw@clara.co.uk.
New cost-effective products on offer Sandal secures strong sales WE are pleased to announce the latest addition to the ShearStep range of retail products. This development of products has given us a new group of products to offer which we feel will enhance the comfort and protection of users. This cost-effective group of products are made using the highest quality mineral gels and not only protect but also improve the quality of dry and damaged skin. These protection products are all designed to reduce pressure on the foot from footwear, thereby helping to prevent recurrence of corns and other painful conditions. These products are based on other gel products in the market but have
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the additional advantage that we have used mineral gels for the manufacture, giving enhanced features over other gels. We are delighted with this new range of products which offer the highest quality to our customers and are sure that they will provide comfort and protection to all users. For more information visit: www.shearstep.com
EVERCARE, the distributors of the Fidelio brand in the UK, have reported strong sales at the beginning of the spring season on their unique Hallux Sandal. The sandal provides a clever solution for feet with sensitive bunions. The sandal was launched at the SCP conference for podiatrists and chiropodists and is now recommended by over 2,500 healthcare professionals. Bunionsufferers can have great difficulty finding shoes that fit, as the shape of the foot becomes so distorted. The Hallux sandal works by providing a stretchable pouch inside the sandal which can cushion the bunion and
relieve the pain. Evercare report that while the Hallux sandal has been successfully used as an entry into many new retail outlets, the other sandals, mules and clogs within the collection are also performing very well. The colours and materials are on trend for this season and are proving extremely popular. All the Fidelio sandals also have removable insoles and are wide and deep, helping to accommodate the foot comfortably. For more information e-mail: mike@meanfeet.com
Range goes back to nature
Firm shape provides comfort
PADDERS has gone back to nature to find inspiration for its new Natura range of ladies shoes. Contemporary designs using a warm, earthy colour palette – loam browns and forest greens, evoke a calming autumnal feel, while the creative, contrasting stitching on the tactile nubuck and waxy leathers leave an essence of ethnic influences, appealing to a wide age range. Full leather socks and linings cosset the foot in comfort while the sporty sole absorbs impacts, so the feet don’t have to. These boots and shoes are very competitively priced and are being sold forward in Padders’ AW09
SUPERFEET’S firm, contoured shape provides comfort that soft insoles cannot achieve. Insoles are like mattresses – a good mattress is made of firm, supportive materials and a bad mattress is soft, unsupportive and tiring to lie on. The same is true of insoles – when you stand on a Superfeet Premium Insole, you can feel the firm and supportive shape. It is not soft and mushy because although soft, non-supportive insoles feel good when you first put them
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collections. Get back to nature with Padders Natura collection – for more information call Mike Rowe on 01536 534976 or e-mail: mike@padders.co.uk.
in, in the long run your foot problems don’t go away. Wearing soft insoles is like running in the soft, dry sand at the beach. Initially it feels good, but you quickly grow tired, waste energy, and begin to feel the stress on your knees and back. For more information visit: www.anatom.co.uk or call: 0800 032 3505.
Designer spotlight A footwear designer is aiming to offer independents something unique with her new collection of bridal shoes. Louise Cordell reports.
Rachel goes for exclusive touch RACHEL Simpson has launched a range of vintage inspired footwear in selected boutiques around the country and so far demand has been huge. She said: “I think there has been a big rise in more fashionable wedding dresses in the past few years, but brides have not had the option of trend-led shoes to go with them. “My collection is very much vintage inspired, with 1920s and 1930s designs mixed in with more modern, on-trend heel and toe shapes. “The emphasis is on creating an elegant overall line, and also on the quality of the materials.” Rachel graduated from De Montfort University’s footwear design course in 2001 and went on to design men’s, women’s and children’s footwear in-house at Next and Rombah Wallace and freelance for high street favourites like Top Shop and Office. She had always planned to launch her own collection and, having taken on a lot of private commissions for handmade bridal shoes, decided she had found a gap in the market. She added: “I think that these days people are looking for something that is good value for money, rather than cheap, and that is one of the reasons I use leather, rather than the more traditional satin. “It means that the quality of the shoe will last for much longer and can be worn again and again.” This less traditional approach means that the shoes are popular as occasion wear as well and Rachel supplies several shoe shops that don’t carry bridal lines. She is now planning new ranges specifically for mothers of the bride and bridesmaids, and even a collection of bags to match.
Rachel Simpson
Rachel added: “I decided to target the collection towards independents because having something original to offer can really set them apart from the chains. “I am very careful not to overlap so that each store is offering something really exclusive to the area – this is because I want the brand to work well for the stockists so it needs to be as selective as possible. “I would never want the brand to be everywhere – I like it to be the point of difference. “We are also very aware that stores appreciate good service just as much as a quality brand and we want to do all we can to be there for them. “I think it is important to offer everything that should go hand in hand with a good collection, from keeping styles in stock to providing attractive and eye-catching points of sale.” The first Rachel Simpson range will now be kept as a core collection, with autumn/ winter 09 designs to sell alongside launching this month.
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New Product Showcase
Gola nets new collaboration with designer
Romilly brand heads for Dubai ROMILLY Jane exhibited at Pure for the first time in February and had a great response, opening up the brand’s first overseas account for a boutique in Dubai. New accounts were also opened for a number of independent department stores and boutiques in the UK including Spitalfields Chica Boutique. The brand is now stocked in 17 retailers, just six months after launching, and after appointing a new Irish agent, plans to expand into Ireland. Romilly said: “We have had a wonderful response to our new autumn/winter 09 collection as more and more retailers seem to be appreciating real quality with an affordable price tag. “We have also avoided targeting our shoes at any specific age range after the designs have been popular with women from 18 to 50 plus. “I think this is down to the classic shapes combined with up to the minute colours textures and detail – after all, you can’t put an age on good taste.”
FOOTWEAR brand Gola has announced a new collaboration with designer Jonathan Saunders. Following the success of previous collections, Saunders has now produced a range of men’s and women’s casual footwear for autumn/winter 2009. The range is made up of joggers,
high top and low profile options and features leather uppers with suede and canvas trims in colours including black, white, grey, red and brown. The collection has been inspired by Saunders’ most recent ready-to-wear collection, incorporating herringbone patterns and interwoven leather effects.
New range of belts and wallets RADICALBoot Co UK has launched a new range of belts and wallets to add to its footwear collection. Now, alongside its dress, western, exotic and biker boots, the company is offering wallets and belts handmade in Mexico using genuine exotic skins. James Bilson, managing director, said: “It is great to be able to supply our clients with a unique product and we are very excited to be able to extend the range of provide customers with quality accessories to go with their footwear.” The crocodile skin belts are available in black and brown, and their wallets are available in python, crocodile, ostrich, lizard and stingray.
Donna Hill, Gola Classics marketing manager, said: “The Gola by Jonathan Saunders collaborations have consistently resulted in a range of highly desirable footwear. The new autumn/winter 2009 collection is no exception, combining subtle design with an in vogue colour pallet.”
Company set to double turnover ARA have acquired Germany’s Salamander Group, which is now set to expand throughout Europe. The move will allow the company to nearly double its turnover, thanks to the 51 German branches and further 142 shops globally purchased from insolvency administrators. Robert Röseler, chairman of the Ara management board, said: "We are delighted that further operation of the traditional Salamander brand could be assured and are especially proud to have found in the Klauser shoe trading company an excellent retailing partner for this transaction." Peter Prange, managing director of Salamander Germany, added: "We expressly invite all suppliers to continue their constructive collaboration with Salamander now on a secure commercial basis and to further expand it in the medium term."
Alternative but commercial designs Grotesque offers luxurious, hand tumbled vegetable tanned leather shoes in alternative, but commercial designs. All shoes come with full calf linings and feature quality outsoles in leather or rubber. This season’s collection includes men’s ankle boots and low profile, sports influenced shoes and the women’s collection features knee high full leather boots, Chelsea boots, ankle boots and unusual healed lace gibsons. The collection was launched in the UK in February and is now hoping to open select accounts across the UK, with no limitation on opening orders. The brand has also been well received at this season’s shows, including Pure, Micam, GDS, Bread and Butter and Premier Berlin.
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News Tim Little has created shoes for many of the UK’s most famous men, including Robbie Williams, Elton John, Jeremy Irons and even Ant and Dec. Out On A Limb talked to the designer about his predictions for the future of men’s footwear and whether it will ever match women’s in the style stakes.
A step in the right direction TIM grew up with a passion for shoes, and so didn’t let a complete lack of design training stop him starting his first collection in 1996. He built up experience working in the traditional English shoemaking factories in Northampton, learning the tricks of the trade and developing his own styles. His first collection was snapped up immediately by Selfridges and Barneys New York, with Harrods following soon afterwards. Tim said: “I felt very strongly that my designs had to be good enough to get into these high-end stores straight away – that was always my aim and I didn’t want to do things slowly or by halves. “I started out doing modern versions of English classics. The style had always appealed to me, but some of the designs could be a bit dull, so I updated them with some quirky twists.” Tim produces a new collection twice a year and has recently expanded into more casual styles including calf leather moccasins and a ‘grown-up’ version of trainers which he has made in Tuscany. He has also experienced a big rise in demand for his bespoke services over the last few years. He offers fully handmade designs, and despite the expense the service is the fastest growing area of the business. He added: “I think the idea of
bespoke is definitely something that fits with men’s personalities in particular – they like to invest in something and love the idea of a shoe that gets better the more you wear it. “They are also less interested in having shoes that are the height of fashion and prefer classic styles, so they have no reason to buy cheaper, ‘one season’ designs. “Another reason is the fact that the more cheaper shoes take over the market, the more a certain kind of man wants to go the other way and have something that is special and different to the mainstream.”
“But I do think progress is being made – when I started out 12 years ago the vast majority of designs were really boring, but men are gradually getting used to the idea that they can be a bit more adventurous. “Back in those days about 80 per cent of the shoes we sold were black, but now it is only about 15 per cent, so that is a change in itself – we’re heading in the right direction.”
The bespoke jobs that Tim receives range from the rite of passage pair, for example parents kitting out their son for his first job, to requests to recreate a pair that belonged to a father or grandfather, with real sentimental value. He also produces more everyday designs, like golfing shoes or a pair to match a favourite suit or wedding outfit. Tim added: “In terms of exciting styles, men’s footwear design has certainly not caught up with women’s yet – so bespoke does offer a good opportunity to create something different. “I think as a rule men are more conservative in what they want to wear, and that has a knock on effect as no retailer wants to get stuck with a line of wacky shoes that won’t sell.
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Sponsored by BLC Leather Technology Centre Ltd - www.blcleathertech.com
Jobs going at record rate RETAIL sales have fallen heavily and jobs in the sector are being lost at a record rate according to the latest figures from the Confederation of British Industry. However, footwear stores are coping better than most, with many reporting a degree of sales growth over the last two months. Overall, the Distributive Trades Survey revealed falling sales in 52 per cent of retailers compared with 27 per cent who saw a sales increase. Andy Clarke, chairman of the CBI distributive trades panel, said: “February was another tough month and sadly many retailers are cutting jobs as shoppers stay away and the recession deepens. But conditions were not quite as harsh as they were at the very beginning of the year and in the run up to Christmas. “Footwear and leather shops enjoyed some pretty strong growth, proving that as the flight to the value end of the market continues, those with the right offering can fare well during these tough times. “March looks to be similarly testing but we hope that, as the year goes on, lower interest rates and falling inflation will encourage a pick-up in spending.”
Options to deal with non payers By Sandi Simons AS the credit crunch continues to bite it is becoming increasingly important for companies to have their debts paid on time. As lawyers in the fashion industry we at Harbottle and Lewis have noticed an increase in the last few months in clients asking for advice in relation to both debt collection and insolvency. There are various legal options available in relation to how to deal with non payers. The Late Payment of Commercial Debts (Interest) Act 1998:
This act applies to contracts for the supply of goods or services, where both the purchaser and supplier are acting in the course of a business, and allows you to claim interest at the rate of 8 per cent above the Bank of England base rate. Such a high daily interest rate is a daunting prospect and the Act can be used to put pressure on a debtor
to pay promptly. Court proceedings:
If the debt remains outstanding it may be appropriate to issue court proceedings. Once the claim is issued the Defendant can either do nothing (in which case you will be entitled to obtain a default judgment for the value of the claim), admit the claim, or defend it. The downside of bringing a claim is that it can be costly, time consuming and there is a chance that you could obtain a judgment but the debtor has no money to pay it.
statutory demand on the debtor setting out the details of the debt due. If no payment is received within 21 days then the company is deemed to be insolvent which allows you to be able to wind-up the company. If a company does not wish to go into liquidation then it will deal with the debt within this 21 day period. If it is unable to pay its debts then at least you will know this at this early stage rather than having issued court proceedings, obtained a judgment and have nothing to enforce it against.
Insolvency proceedings:
Contractual terms:
Where there is no dispute that the amount claimed is due then insolvency proceedings can be commenced against a non payer. Impending insolvency proceedings can often result in a debtor paying sums due.
The law can be used in a commercial context to put pressure on a debtor. Clauses in a contract might allow you to terminate it for late payment of monies due and a threat to do so could itself result in payment being made.
The usual approach is to first serve a
I Sandi Simons is a partner with Harbottle and Lewis LLP
New safety act focuses on use of lead in coatings THE Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act (CPSIA) came into force in September 2008 in the USA, and places restrictions on the use of certain substances in all products intended for children under 12 years of age. The act focuses on the use of lead in surface coatings and in substrate materials, and also on the use of phthalates as plasticisers in products. For paint and similar surface coatings, such as coatings on eyelets and finishes on leather/synthetics the maximum allowable lead content is 0.06 per cent, which will fall to 0.009 per cent as of August 14, 2009. Testing by a third party accredited laboratory is mandatory, and failure to provide a Certificate of Conformity may result in the product either being recalled or destroyed. Lead in the substrate relates to the testing of a base material, for example this means that if the sample is a leather shoe, the finish will be subjected to lead in surface coating testing, and the leather itself will also require total lead testing as the substrate material. The limit for lead in substrate material is also 600ppm, and will
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eventually be reduced to 300ppm. Phthalates are commonly used as softeners for plastics and six phthalates (DEHP, DBP, BBP, DINP, DIDP, and DnOP) are restricted by the CPSIA in concentrations of more than 0.1 per cent by weight of sample tested. Manufacturers and importers of footwear are expected to undertake reasonable testing programmes and due diligence in order to comply with the limits set for lead and phthalates. BLC is a Consumer Products Safety Commission accredited laboratory for lead in paint and surface coatings and can also offer testing for lead in substrate and phthalates. BLC can also offer advice on suitable testing programmes and support with product failures. Contact BLC on 01604 679999, e-mail: info@blcleathertech.com or visit www.blcleathertech.com
Retail technology solutions
Direct sourcing to improve margins – fact or fiction? by Jack Brown
these duties without affecting their actual buying job then the retailer really is on to a winner.
IT IS a common approach made by retailers and footwear buyers. If I go direct and cut out the middle man or agent and talk directly to the shoe factory then I can save the agent’s commission, have greater influence, be closer to my production, build relationships with the shoe factory, increase my margins and make more money. But this is a very simplistic approach with many pitfalls and the dangers of cutting out a good, experienced, knowledgeable importer or agent just to save a few pounds can be a very dangerous decision to make. Of course the importer or agent will be adding on his commission and selling a product to the retailer which the retailer could have sourced cheaper had they had the time and contacts to do so.
But in order to make sure that all of the above issues run smoothly, the retailer will need to employ an assistant buyer, admin assistant, merchandiser and technologist to ensure maximum direct sourcing advantages. That £1.50 per pair saving by sourcing directly has just evaporated and the shoe is now significantly more expensive. Jack Brown of Jack Brown Footwear Consultancy Services
the necessary testing to ensure product durability and checked all of the EU safety and labelling directives to ensure it is legally compliant to sell in the UK.
The buyer could have arranged a factory audit in order to ensure that ethical standards are met, arranged for independent fitting trials of the shoes to ensure that they actually do fit.
The retailer then checks all of the customs, excise, taxes and duties to ensure full compliance and checking all production and shipment dates, carriage costs and contacts, transport and storage before finally arranging dispatch to the shop.
The buyer could have arranged all
If the buyer really can perform all of
A good, experienced, knowledgeable importer or agent who really understands the market, understands the needs of the customer and is responsive to those needs is worth their weight in gold and by taking on board all of the daily grind of getting a style design to shelf as quickly, cheaply and smoothly as possible is a partner worth commending not replacing. A retailer who sources directly just to save a few pounds may find themselves out of the game in the future.
Has technology for independent retailers come very far? By David Mackley of Intelligent Retail WITH many independents using simple electric tills you wouldn’t think so – but then there has to be a good reason to use new technology and for many retailers this just hasn’t been the case. On the other hand technology is now cheaper than ever and quite sophisticated systems are available to independents without too much investment. The impact of the internet has been and will continue to be significant. After the hype in the 1990s it has become a real alternative to the high street, but for retailers to move online there are numerous problems. Running a web shop alongside the main shop can be like running two separate businesses. This is where retail technology is increasing in value, by integrating shop and web activities, and can make running a small multichannel business more viable. All functions of the business can be managed centrally and these systems also deliver efficient processes. Serving retail customers is a time bound process, but serving internet customers can be fitted in at a time to suit the retailer. So these two activities mesh together well, improving productivity and business efficiency.
Problems should be faced sooner rather than later STRUGGLING retailers are being advised to face their financial problems sooner rather than later to avoid the threat of administration. Business intelligence analysts Plimsoll Publishing have released new advice to help failing companies, following reseach confirming that UK insolvencies are set to soar by up to 55 per cent in 2009. David Pattison, senior business analyst, said: “Restructuring specialists believe that the number of insolvencies will soon double compared to before the credit crunch. “It may not be too late to save many of the UK footwear companies that have been rated as
being at a high risk of failure, but if they are to survive, they must start to fix their problems now.” The report describes the phases of a failing business, which include the company coming under pressure to increase sales, taking on extra short term debts and eroding profits with building overdrafts. This leads to the company’s debt growing to an uncontrolled level and banks demanding immediate repayment - and when the company is unable to do this, administrators are called in. David added: “A critical factor in this cycle is to understand the key measures to monitor your business in order to pinpoint any decline. “If companies are made aware of
their problems sooner, the management has more time to put a survival plan in place and stave off the administrators. “Administration should always be viewed as a clear last resort - the damage done to the long term health of the company in terms of the brand and negative publicity are all too difficult to recover from.” The report goes on to list the three options available to businesses if they want to survive and be well placed to capitalise when the market picks up. The first is to cut costs, which means downsizing the company, cutting out non-profitable contracts, reducing overheads and renegotiating with key suppliers.
David Pattison
The second is to sell the company or look for an investor with the time and resources to turn the business’s performance around. A final option is for a company to trade its way out of difficulties.
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Issue of the issue It may seem like the New Year sales have only just finished, but retailers up and down the country are already gearing up for summer discounts. Many independents are being forced to compete with discounts of up to 90 per cent and getting stuck with unwanted stock in the process. Out On A Limb talks to industry experts Laura West and Helen Hook for their advice on how to face yet another sales season and survive.
How to keep stock moving out the door ... By Laura West, Secretary, The Society of Shoe Fitters
AS A rule, I would say that if you can avoid having a sale, then do – but the trade is fickle in many ways and unless you have a crystal ball, then everyone has a line of shoes they wish they hadn't bought. So, you will have excess stock sitting around and all the time it’s on your shelf it’s still costing you money – however, to join the masses is not necessarily the best way forward for a small business. January and September are the usual months to see sales, but the public are so in tune with this that we are almost immune. One very old shop in Kent only has one sale a year 'by invitation' and simply allows only ten to 20 people inside the shop at one time. Every year the queue extends down the road, creating interest in the store and clearing stock at the same time. You could also have a 'Bargain of the Week or Month' where some troublesome item is put on display with clear promotional material stating sizes available, cost before and now – so passing trade will be attracted to the same part of your window regularly to see what is on offer. ‘Keep it fresh’ is the key sentence for both stock and window displays. If you have far too much
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stock and feel forced to have a large sale then you really need to consider who does the buying. You should be assessing your stock on a weekly basis to see what is or is not selling and many computerised systems help with this. However, it is always better to do something rather than do nothing, so if you see a style that’s not selling, talk to the staff and ask them why – do people not like it or is it hard to fit? Whatever the reason act immediately or the shoes will simply take root. Chains have always been luckier in that they can afford to buy larger quantities, negotiate bigger discounts, shuffle stock from branch to branch to compensate for poor sales and enjoy greater footfall in prime sites. However, independents have some of their own advantages, they are often in a position to negotiate rent rebates and cheaper leases. They have also always had to compete on other factors, providing a fitting service or giving a more personal friendly service, and with consumers looking for the feel good factor, this will be a major plus point. The volume of stock is irrespective, but it does mean that they can also take risks on less well-known brands. It is vital that all shops give themselves a shake up and try to generate a feeling of well-being, and that may mean overhauling windows, giving greater staff training or asking a consultant for advice. A few hundred pounds spent employing an unbiased consultant may save you thousands or even bankruptcy if you act quickly enough – now is not a time for pride or modesty.
How long is too long for a shop sale? By Helen Hook, former IFRA president and owner of Geoffrey Bailey shoes in Wantage, Oxfordshire
WHEN planning a sale it is important to know how long is too long. I think to have the shop on full sale for four to five weeks is long enough and I try to condense the sale area down and take it out of the window as soon as we have enough new season stock for the shop to look fresh. I keep a small offer going until I launch the new season with a preview evening for database customers, but keep it unobtrusive and not the main focus of the shop. I make my decisions on what to include in the sale by looking at each line in the stockroom. Anything I have nearly sold out of, with about three pairs left, automatically goes in, and where there are lines that haven’t sold as well as I’d like I try and work out why. If it’s because they might have been too expensive, or don’t fit properly, or are very much one season looks, then they will definitely go in the sale. However, if they are very classic and likely to be the kind of thing I’d buy again they don’t go in. I normally start my sale discounting by 25 to 30 per cent, then after the initial rush has worn off I will reduce all the remaining sale stock
to 50 per cent off original price. I never go lower than that, unless I have a particularly hard to sell style probably with a fit problem that should have gone back to the manufacturer, or faded or damaged shoes. This generally means I have a pretty good clearout of seasonal stock and I tend not to get left with too much that is over a year old. When it comes to sales, independents are probably not able to compete with the larger chains. I certainly couldn’t match the 75 per cent or even 90 per cent off sales that some have been doing. But whether the customer expects us to or not is a different question. I think most of them are realistic and recognise that the larger shops have a lot more money to play with and wouldn’t expect to see it. Even by having my normal end of season sale I’m being asked endlessly if I’m closing down, but that is generally by my ‘sale’ customers who are quite often completely different to my regulars. I think this year we will see a lot more of the short offers that we saw in the run up to Christmas. It does seem as if every year the seasonal offers as in ‘spring’, ‘midseason’ and ‘Easter’ get earlier and earlier, and I don’t think that will change. I do think there is a danger customers get immune to the lure of sales though, and can’t be bothered to shift through lots of products to look for cheap stuff and would rather have a peaceful attractive looking shopping space.
Retail review
The Jacksons is a store that proves that even the most luxurious footwear and accessories can be sourced with environmental issues in mind. Louise Cordell reports.
Twins pair their love of fashion with a social conscience TWINS Joey and Louise Jackson set up their Notting Hill boutique in 1998 with the aim of balancing their love of fashion and accessories with their increasing concern about environmental issues. They wanted to show that luxurious products can still be bought by people with a social conscience and over the years have become involved in a number of international projects. These include working with the Massai in Kenya who produce a range of beaded belts and sandals and several Bangladeshi organisations which help women in rural communities showcase local crafts by making various bags and accessories. Louise said: “We were first attracted to the quality of the products and we have always been keen to work with small, rural groups. “I think there is a huge untapped source of very sophisticated craft workers in many countries and we want to expose the brilliant talents that they have. “We love the work they create and our aim is to give it a twist and bring it into the Western market.” The Jacksons are now focussing on expanding their own footwear collection, which is designed and made in Spain and their range of handbags, which is designed and made in-house. The pair produce two collections a year, incorporating brand new designs as well as updating bestsellers. The Millie boot is one of the brand’s longest running styles which is constantly popular and has the same customers returning time and time again.
However, others products are ‘one summer wonders’ like a range of Vietnamese inspired bags which were featured on TV by Gok Wan, received a huge response, but then were replaced with new favourites by the end of the season. Louise added: “Neither of us have any real background in design, so we just look for things that we love, design things that appeal to us and stick with what works. “We have a very loyal clientele who like out of the ordinary products and we like to find things that are authentic and evocative – almost like holiday mementos. “Our clients recognise that and know that they will find something a bit more special and eccentric than they will on the high street.” Louise spends time every year travelling in search of new inspiration, visiting Bangladesh and the Spanish factories regularly. The store is also now well known enough that they are contacted by people around the world who think they might have found a suitable product. Louise added: “I think our success is due to the fact that we have grown up and understand putting collections together a lot better. “We have been around for a fairly long time and so have access to good suppliers and factories, so whatever demand comes up, we are usually in a better position to meet it. “Finally, the fact that we are wholesale as well as retail also means that we can take a chance on some things and we can afford to sit on stock if we need to – so in many ways we have the best of both worlds.”
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FOOT CARE SOLUTIONS
diarydates WSA Las Vegas, 31 July - 2 August (www.wsashow.com) Retail buyers will be given the chance to see the new SS08 footwear and major brands. Collections will be revealed in the Style Walk Lounge and live fashion presentations will be staged.
Pure Olympia London, 2-4 August (www.purewomenswear.co.uk) A showcase of over 800 directional womenswear brands, young creative labels, footwear and accessory collection.
SHOE FITTING
Moda Footwear NEC Birmingham, 9-11 August (www.moda-uk.co.uk) Moda will include a seminar programme which will be free of charge to all visitors and exhibitors. The Moda catwalk show will present an overview of the seasons trends, providing an insight into key looks.
London Edge London Olympia, 6-8 September (www.londonedge.com) The trade show for alternative street and club fashion, footwear, accessories and giftwear with over 300 collections available to view.
HAND PAINTED FOOTWEAR
GDS/GLS Messe Dusseldorf, Germany, 11-13 September (www.gds-online.com) Highlights will include high fashion labels from international brands and the children’s footwear marketplace. Other events will include fashion shows, trend presentations and trend vision.
ISPO Winter Neue Messe MĂźnchen, 7-10 Feb 10 The international trade fair for sports equipment and fashion celebrates its 69th show and, with the full exhibition space booked up, are expecting record attendances.
TRAINING
To Advertise please call 01226734288
30 ISSUE 52 APRIL/MAY 2009