WHERE Hong Kong - February 2014 by WHERE Hong Kong

F E B RU a r y 2 014

the complete guide to go

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Hong Kong

An Insiderâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Guide to Hong Kong bars with a view Chinese New Year Gifts

A Galloping Start Spectacular fireworks, flower markets, and delectable dinners to ring in the Year of the Horse

where Hong Kong 2.2014 ®

the guide

06 Hot Dates Hong Kong’s hottest concerts, shows and events

14 art + culture Top galleries and our pick of what’s happening

20 dining Your A-Z of the best eats in town

26 Drinks Our favorite places to sip a cocktail

38 Walking Tour Explore a neighborhood on foot

40 Maps Kowloon & Hong Kong Island

SCMP/Oliver Tsang

features 6 A Galloping Start Celebrate the Year of the Horse

Also inside 28 Shops + services From mega malls to local designers 34 NAVIGATE Fast facts and essential info 42 30 THINGS WE LOVE Hong Kong’s all-time top spots and best experiences

with some shopping, a festive meal and some pyrotechnics to go along

8 Hong Kong Confidential

on the cover J a n u a r y 2014

the complete guide to go

Hong Kong

Chinese New Year is a time of celebration for Hongkongers. 2014 is the Year of the Horse,

An insiders’ guide to Hong Kong,

the seventh animal

from the people who call it home

in the 12-creature Chinese zodiac. Flip An InSIder’S GuIde to HonG KonG bArS wItH A vIew

28 Cool Concept Sir David Tang is venturing beyond

CHIneSe new YeAr GIftS

A Galloping Start Spectacular fireworks, flower markets, and delectable dinners to ring in the Year of the Horse

through our pages to find out what the fuss is all about.

his Shanghai Tang roots with a brand new lifestyle shop

wheretraveler.com The website from the editors of Where Magazine. Get all the latest city buzz from our experts—info only the locals know.

F e b r u a r y 2 0 14 I WHERE hong ko n g 3

where

maga z ine

On the web: www.wherehongkong.com HK Magazine Media group acMG | ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION General MANAGER & Publisher Greg Crandall ADVERTISING director Jan Cheng Senior Advertising Manager Ashley Lui, Dominic Lalk, Oliver Cheung Advertising Managers Keiko Ko, Hills Lau Advertising Executives Winnie Cheng Advertising Coordinator Sharon Cheung Marketing MANAGER James Gannaban Marketing & Circulation Executive Charmaine Mirandilla IT SYSTEMS Manager Derek Wong

HK | EDITORIAL EDITOR-in-chief Zach Hines EDITOR Adele Wong CONTRIBUTORS Evelyn Lok, William Hodson, Anya Beniac, Jayson Albano, Elizabeth Chu

HK | PRODUCTION PRODUCTION MANAGER Blackie Hui ART DIRECTOR Pierre Pang Senior graphic designer Mike Hung graphic designer Iris Mak

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where

HONG KONG

Room 302, 3/F, Hollywood Centre, 233 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, Hong Kong Phone: 2850-5065 Fax: 2543-1880 Published by where Hong Kong Publishing Ltd., Printed by Apex Print Limited, 11-13 Dai Kwai Street, Tai Po Industrial Estate, Tai Po, New Territories. where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. where is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications-Where Magazine. ®

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hot dates Hong Kong By Eveyln Lok

A Galloping Start Get ready for two full weeks of exciting events this month as the Year of the Horse is officially upon us. This year, Chinese New Year started on Jan 31 (the first day on the Lunar calendar), but the celebrations don’t stop until Feb 14, with the Lantern Festival. Chinese New Year is a time for families to re-unite, give each other lai see (red envelopes filled with cash), and fill up on treats like New Year pudding. (Turn to p.20 for dining tips.) Join in the fun by heading to one of the events below.

Through February

Let There Be Light

See the Lunar New Year Lantern Display at the Hong Kong Cultural Centre Piazza, or check out the Urban Lunar New Year Lantern Carnival, where you can partake in fun activities like palm-readings. Check out www.lcsd.gov.hk for more info. Lunar New Year Lantern Display: Through Feb, 6-11pm. Hong Kong Cultural Centre Piazza, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. Urban Lunar New Year Lantern Carnival 2014: Feb 14, 7:30-10:30pm. Hong Kong Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui.

Through February 14

February 1 SCMP/Oliver Tsang

Start With a Bang

At the beginning of each Chinese New Year, many of the city’s residents flock to Lam Tsuen’s Wishing Tree Square, where they can write out their wishes on joss paper and throw them onto the wishing tree. The beautifully festive floats from Hong Kong’s Chinese New Year Night Parade will also gather at the Lam Tsuen Wishing Square to be exhibited.

Ring in the Year of the Horse by watching the annual fireworks display that will take place in Victoria Harbour, between Central and Tsim Sha Tsui. Choose your favorite spot along the waterfront and head there early to beat the crowds. For another fireworks vantage point, check out p.13.

Through Feb 14. Lam Tsuen Wishing Square, Lam Tsuen, Tai Po, 2638-8026, www.lamtsuen.com.

8pm. Victoria Harbour.

Wish Upon a Tree

6 W H E R E HONG KONG I F e b r u a r y 2 0 14

hot dates February 2

February 2-9

Asian Invasion

Out of the Gate What better way to up your good fortune in the Year of the Horse than by going to the races? Head to the first race of the year at Sha Tin Racecourse, where you can try your luck at betting and also participate in an exciting program of Lunar New Year festivities.

For the third year running, a gorgeous 800-seat temporary theater made out of bamboo will be erected for a three-week series of Cantonese opera, Chinese dance and contemporary music perfomances. This year will open with the timeless works of the Plum Blossom Award Art Troupe of Chinese Theatre Association.

11am-6pm. Sha Tin Racecourse, Sha Tin, www.hkjc.com.

Feb 2-5, 8-9. West Kowloon Cultural District, West Kowloon. $100-280 from www.urbtix.hk.

February 19-23

Through February

February 18 onwards

Comedy of Horrors

Thinking Outside the Box

Art to Art

Local theater group Naiad Productions presents Tony-award winner James Kirkwood’s comedy, “P.S. Your Cat Is Dead.” Protagonist Jimmy Zoole is a New York actor who’s having a notso-great week: his girlfriend’s left him, his cat’s in critical condition in the hospital, he’s been robbed twice, and he’s just found a burglar in his loft. Jimmy soon discovers he’s not too different from his larcenous acquaintance.

The Hong Kong Repertory is hosting its inaugural International Black Box Festival, featuring five theater groups and artists from Hong Kong, Singapore, Taiwan, the UK, and Japan performing monologues and edgy dramas on the theme of “A Beautiful Connection.”

The city’s largest annual Arts Festival once again arrives in Hong Kong, bringing with it more than 1,600 artists playing 138 performances over 34 nights. Enjoy everything from world-class orchestras and dance troupes to locally commissioned plays and concerts.

Feb 19-22, 8pm; Feb 22-23, 3pm. The McAulay Studio, Arts Centre, 2 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai. $200-220 from www.ticketflap.com and www.urbtix.hk.

Through Feb. HKRep Black Box Theater, 8/F, Sheung Wan Civic Centre, Sheung Wan Municipal Services Building, 345 Queen's Rd. Central, Sheung Wan.

Feb 18-Mar 22. Various venues. Check out www.hk.artsfestival.org for more info.

F e b r u a r y 2 0 14 I WHERE H ONG KONG 7

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Hong Kong Confidential An insider’s guide to Hong Kong. Compiled by Adele Wong

ong Kong is a city full of quirks and gems—if you know where to look. We’ve asked local representatives from various industries to give us their two cents on what they love most about Hong Kong: from their favorite neighborhoods to the must-have Hong Kong dish, to the best times to visit. Their answers might surprise you.

Haider Kikabhoy

Haider Kikabhoy runs Walk In Hong Kong (www.walkin.hk), a tour operator that aims to educate both tourists and locals on the different historical and cultural treasures the city has to offer.

A temple on Tai Ping Shan Street in Sheung Wan

What is your favorite time of year in Hong Kong? March. The change from winter to spring is pleasurable. You feel it and you see it: the floral booms, the energizing warmth that makes you want to spend a lot of time in the country parks, the moisture that creeps back into the air before the oppressive humidity of summer takes over. Founder, Walk In Hong Kong

What is your favorite district in Hong Kong, and why? The quiet, hilly area around Hollywood Road Park in Sheung Wan. I love it because it’s steeped in history yet right now it’s caught in a swirl of gentrification. Across the road from the park, you get a most eclectic mix of trades that encapsulate the unique character of the area: a fancy restaurant stands right next to two traditional Chinese coffin shops, then further along you’ll find a trendy art gallery sandwiched between an Anglican kindergarten and a greasy Chinese roast pork vendor. What is one quintessential Hong Kong dish that you can’t do without? A bowl of fish ball noodle soup, with a liberal sprinkling of chopped spring onions, coriander, roast garlic and pickled vegetables. A spoon or two of chilli oil on 8 W H E R E HONG KONG I F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 4

Upper Lascar Row

top wouldn’t go amiss either. Any noodle stall that gets a crowd and generates enough steam from the vats of slowcooked stock will be good. What do you do to de-stress and get away from the daily grind? Hiking in the countryside or a day spent on one of the outlying islands— we’re an archipelago of 263 islands, after all. So much of Hong Kong is green and gorgeous. I like bus routes no.6 (to Repulse Bay), no.9 (to Shek O) and no.14 (to Stanley via Tai Tam Reservoir) on Hong Kong Island. They are magical, undulating rides from one jungle (concrete) to another (lush tropical foliage and soothing bays).

A boutique in Sheung Wan

Who is your favorite Hongkonger? There are lots of people I like but since this is the Year of the Horse, I’ll pick the late Tung Biu (Uncle Biu), Hong Kong’s best horse racing pundit ever. You don’t have to like or even know anything about horse racing to have fond memories of Tung Biu, because he often used the sport just as a vehicle to pronounce his musings on life and society. His post-race analysis on midnight TV in the 80s and early 90s were a brilliant cocktail of biting commentaries, anguished sighs and polemics. What’s the one thing you love most about Hong Kong? The industry, tenacity and enterprise of the people.

Ping Lam Owner, The Nail Library

Ping Lam’s The Nail Library—a hand and foot spa—in the quiet reaches of Sheung Wan has become so popular that a second branch in Central (2/F, Cochrane St., Central, 2618-8676) opened just this month.

this old-school joint in the Wan Chai Markets [to get my fix]. However, it has disappeared on me. So now, I am looking for the next best… Who is your favorite Hongkonger? [The late singer and actor] Leslie Cheung. I grew up singing his songs and watching

his movies. I consider him as one of the founding fathers of Cantopop. What’s the one thing you love most about Hong Kong? I love Hong Kong for its people. They are so diverse, dynamic and devoted to living life large.

What is your favorite time of year in Hong Kong? I love winter in Hong Kong, when we get to rug up in our glam winter gear for a whole four weeks, as well as enjoy Hong Kong without the crazy crowds. There are so many festive celebrations like Christmas, Winter Solstice, and Chinese New Year during winter, which makes Hong Kong even more exciting. What is one quintessential Hong Kong dish that you can’t do without? Bo lo char siu bao [barbecued pork in a sweet “pineapple” bun]. I used to go to

Peter Leong Assistant General Manager, Agnès b. HK Limited

Peter Leong oversees the operations of fashion and lifestyle retailer Agnès. b. (G-1/F, K11, 18 Hanoi Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3122-4282), which recently opened a 17,000 square foot one-stop-shop called Rue de Marseille at K11 Mall in Tsim Sha Tsui.

What is your favorite time of year in Hong Kong? My favorite time in Hong Kong is Chinese New Year, as no other cities other than the ones in China have such a rich festive tradition during this time of year. What is your favorite district in Hong Kong? My favorite district is the south side of Hong Kong Island, as I always feel relaxed and happy with the ocean and the slow pace. At the same time, I also love the vibrancy of Causeway Bay, Mong Kok and Tsim Sha Tsui, the traditional down-to-earth lifestyle of the New Territories and Sai Kung, and the cosmopolitan atmosphere of Central. We’re really lucky to have all these different attractions just at our doorstep!

Chinese New Year is a great time to be in Hong Kong

What is one quintessential Hong Kong dish that you can’t do without? There’s so much to love, whether it’s roast goose in Sham Tseng, roast pigeon in Sha Tin, or hot pot or fried crab in Causeway Bay. Even a great bowl of wonton noodles at a cha chaan teng [local greasy spoon] can really hit the spot. Who is your favorite Hongkonger? My favorite Hongkonger—that’s a tough one as there are so many whom I find inspirational. What I love about Hongkongers in general

is their work ethic—so many people are dedicated to their work and being great at what they do. People really want to make a contribution and at the same time: they are so committed to their family and friends. What’s the one thing you love most about Hong Kong? I love the east-meets-west culture as well as the can-do attitude. But all in all, I love my boyfriend and close friends—I am so grateful to them for making my life so rich and happy here.

A view of the harbor from Tsim Sha Tsui F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 4 I WHERE H ONG KONG 9

Alvin Leung Chef-owner, Bo Innovation

Alvin Leung’s restaurant, Bo Innovation (2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2850-8371), specializes in “extreme” Chinese cuisine. The establishment received three stars in the 2014 Michelin Guide.

What is your favorite time of year in Hong Kong? Definitely not summer. I would say weatherwise, it’s really nice here around October/November. It’s probably one of the best times to be in Hong Kong. I also enjoy Chinese New Year, the reason being that I’m away from Hong Kong quite a lot, and Chinese New Year is the only time I try

Danny Ng Principal, 4N Architects

Danny Ng is a principal at 4N Architects, a locally based interior design firm that lists prominent lounges, bars and restaurants across the city on its roster of clients. He works with partner Sinner Sin on 4N’s various projects.

What is your favorite time of year in Hong Kong? I truly believe Hong Kong is a wonderful place throughout the whole year. [We have to deal with] sweaty-hot weather during summers, but what’s better than sunshine and the beach? During the winter, the city comes alive when parties and gatherings take place all over Hong Kong. Not to miss is the Business of Design Week in early December every year that gathers design enthusiasts from all over the world. But If I must choose a season, I really love Chinese New Year—it is the most meaningful festive occasion among local Chinese. I love the time spent with family, staying home for dinner, and greeting relatives in gatherings. It’s always warm and fun. What is your favorite district in Hong Kong, and why? Cheung Chau. Anyone who would like to know more about Hong Kong must go explore Cheung Chau. You can spend one whole day there, witnessing the islander/villager lifestyle. Trek to the peak of the mountain in Cheung Chau and you will be able to see wonderful views of 10 W H E R E HONG KONG I F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 4

to be in Hong Kong so I can be with my family. What is your favorite district in Hong Kong? I’m a creature of habit. Everywhere I go must be within one meter flip of a taxi. I would say Wan Chai is the place I hang out the most. There are a lot of interesting restaurants in Wan Chai which I frequent. Chefs are very simple. Who is your favorite Hongkonger? Sir Run Run Shaw made a lot of movies that I loved to watch when I was a kid. He actually was the oldest person ever to eat at Bo Innovation. I don’t think we can beat that record. He came here about three years ago. Unfortunately I wasn’t there. I was out of town. He donated a lot of money to a lot of causes, but he didn’t do it blindly. He did it for one cause: education.

the whole island, not to mention Lantau Island and a distant view of Hong Kong Island. Magnificent! What is one quintessential Hong Kong dish that you can’t do without? Fish Ball noodle soup. The soup has to be clear yet tasty, and the fish balls can’t be too chewy, yet have that rich fish taste. This is really a Hong Kong dish where you just cannot find comparably good ones anywhere else in the world. Don’t find the dish in five-star hotels or high-end shopping malls. Rather, go to old districts like Wan Chai, Shau Kei Wan, or Aberdeen, and you will find good fish ball noodle restaurants just around the corner.

What is one quintessential Hong Kong dish that you can’t do without? Hong Kong has the best congee in the world. The one I usually go to is Sun Kau Kee Noodle Shop (G/F, 9 Tai Wan Tung St., Wan Chai, 2865-2827). I love the congee there.

Not only are there a lot of restaurants in Wan Chai—there’s plenty of nightlife too

Who is your favorite Hongkonger? One is Bruce Lee. His movies and his fame have penetrated the whole world, making him one of the most famous movie icons in the 20th century. Another one is my childhood pop-star favorite: talented actor Leslie Cheung, who was always stylish, trendy, gentlemanly, gorgeous, and had a sexy voice. What’s the one thing you love most about Hong Kong? Hong Kong is such a safe place, with lots of freedom and opportunities. People living in Hong Kong are free to choose what they want to do in such a safe city.

Cheung Chau

Erbert Chong

Erbert Chong is a new-to-the-scene, locally based designer whose eponymous label was recently featured at Hong Kong Fashion Week.

What is your favorite time of year in Hong Kong? My favorite time would be in the winter, since the weather is more mild.

Who is your favorite Hongkonger? At this moment, Mickco (www.mickco.net). I think he is a wonderful illustrator. What’s the one thing you most love about Hong Kong? All the ghost stories [told by locals] and the haunted hot spots around town.

Fashion designer, Erbert Chong

What is your favorite district in Hong Kong? I would say Mong Kok. I love Goldfish Street and the flower market! I am alway surprised by what random things I can find in that area. What is one quintessential Hong Kong dish that you can’t do without? Soy sauce fried noodles. I don’t have a specific place for it. All I know is when in doubt, a cha chaan teng is a safe bet.

Eat Like a Local Want to try the dishes mentioned by our insiders? Here’s where to go. By Adele Wong and Jayson Albano Barbecued Pork in “Pineapple Bun” (波蘿叉燒包) Tim Ho Wan This Michelinstarred dim sum restaurant is popular with tourists and locals alike. Their barbecued pork buns are delicious and highly addictive. Shop 12A, Hong Kong Station, Podium Level 1, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2332- 3078.

Mong Kok’s a district full of outdoor markets

Fishball Noodle Soup (魚蛋麵) Nam Kee Originally from Aberdeen, Nam Kee is now a multi-branch empire that’s known for freshly made fishballs paired with noodles and delightful fish broth. G/F, 66-72 Stanley St., Central, 2576- 8007.

What is your favorite district in Hong Kong? I love Causeway Bay! I go there a couple of times a week for food and drinks. It’s got great restaurants, a couple of craft beer spots, and just a nice, frantic energy.

What is your favorite time of the year in Hong Kong? I have a soft spot for December in Hong Kong. Most of my memories of Hong Kong include Christmas decorations and the holiday season buzz, as well as the joy of being on Christmas break from school.

What’s the one thing you love most about Hong Kong? My favorite thing about Hong Kong is that it’s perfectly located for traveling to other countries in Asia. Ever since moving here, I’ve been to so many different places I’d never been to before!

What is one quintessential Hong Kong dish that you can’t do without? I love Hong Kong’s “cart noodles,” which are basically noodles mixed with random, mostly unhealthy, toppings like cheese sausages, fish balls, beef tripe, chicken wings, and a fried egg. Yum.

Soy Sauce Fried Noodles (豉油皇炒麵) and Congee (粥) Fuk Kee Fuk Kee Congee in Mong Kok serves soy sauce fried noodles alongside steaming hot bowls of rice porridge. 104- 106 Fa Yuen St., Mong Kok, 2385-1230.

“Cart” Noodles (車仔麵) Wing Kee Noodle Be adventurous and order noodles with beef tripe and congealed pig’s blood from Wing Kee Noodle. G/F, 43 Jardine St., Causeway Bay, 2576-3688.

F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 4 I WHERE H ONG KONG 11

SCMP/K.Y.Cheng

Jonathan So is one of the pioneers of Hong Kong’s craft beer movement. He started organizing a weekend festival called Beertopia Jonathan So (www.beertopiahk. Founder, com) in 2012, and Beertopia the event has become so popular that this year, it will be a three-day affair at the West Kowloon Cultural District.

32-40 Wellington St., Central, 2522-1624.

SCMP/Edmund So

Causeway Bay is full of “frantic energy”

Roast Goose (燒鵝) Yung Kee Yung Kee on Wellington Street in Central is a Hong Kong institution— you’ll be able to see rows of roast geese hanging by the windows before you even enter the restaurant.

Tel: 2730 1251

where

the guide Playing With Fireworks Secure a good spot to catch the Chinese New Year fireworks with a meal at Tott’s and Roof Terrace at The Excelsior Hotel. For $1,388 per person, you’ll get a glass of champagne to go with a westernstyle semi-buffet that starts promptly at 7pm and comes with one main course— braised wagyu beef cheeks with truffle jus., anyone? Tott’s and Roof Terrace, 34/F, The Excelsior, 281 Gloucester Rd., Causeway Bay, 2837-6786.

Art+culture | The Guide

Paint the Town Yellow Parisian photo gallery YellowKorner has arrived in Hong Kong. By Anya Beniac Owned and opened by art lovers Alexandre de Metz and Paul-Antoine Briat, YellowKorner is a unique photography and prints shop that carries works by artists from around the world. YellowKorner started off as a quaint gallery in Paris eight years ago, but has since become a 70-chain international brand, with shops in Australia, Israel, Russia, Mexico, the United Kingdom, the United States— and now Hong Kong. Featured photographers include Frenchman Yann Arthus-Bertrand, and American artists Man Ray, Bert Stern and Dorothea Lange. Browse and choose from an impressive collection of authentic and rare photographs—each piece has at most 500 copies in the world. Whether you’re after something colorful, black and white, conceptual, vintage, or nature-inspired, you’ll probably find something to suit your taste at YellowKorner. Shop 3022B, 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 3406-3122.

Antiques ALTFIELD GALLERY — Altfield Gallery deals in Southeast Asian sculpture and decorative arts, antique maps and topographical prints relating to Asia, as well as Chinese and Tibetan carpets. Altfield also produces a range of reproduction furniture and accessories in the Chinoiserie style. Shipping available. Shop 248-9, 2/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2537-6370, www.altfield.com.hk. ARCH ANGEL ANTIQUES — The three-story shop houses large collections of Qing dynasty porcelain and restored 16th- to 18th-century Chinese furniture. Rare and authentic stone and bronze sculptures and buddhas, and terracotta sculptures from China and Southeastern Asia are found in the viewing galleries, plus there are over 200 paintings in the extensive ancestral scroll collection. G/F, 53-55 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-6848.

DRAGON CULTURE — Specializes in dinosaur egg fossils, Han Dynasty terracotta, Tang sculptures and Ming porcelain figures. 231 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2545-8098, www.dragonculture.com.hk. JOYCE GALLERY — Specializing in ancient sculptures and archaic bronzes from across China, Joyce displays a collection of antiquities dating to the Shang dynasty, including ancient bronzes, stone carvings, gold and silver ware, jade, pottery and Buddhist works. It guarantees its descriptions of the period and history of its items and offers a full refund if the purchased item does not match the description. Shop 1, 123 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2545-1869, www.joycegallery.com.

Lam & Co Antiquities

LAM & CO ANTIQUITIES — An impressive collection of fine Chinese antiquities which ranges from the Neolithic period to the Qing dynasty and includes bronze, gold and silver ware, pottery and porcelain. This shop is well-known by collectors, galleries and auction dealers worldwide and offers repair, restoration, authentication and shipping services. 2/F, 151 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2543-8877, www.lamantiquities.com.

You’ll find some of the best art and antique galleries in town along Hong Kong Island’s Hollywood Road.

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Art+culture | The Guide OI LING ANTIQUES — Oi Ling's Hollywood Road showroom houses a large collection of furniture from the 17th and 18th centuries, as well as authenticated pottery items dating as far back as the Neolithic era. 58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2815-9422, www.oilingantiques.com. WATTIS FINE ART — Specializes in antique maps of Asia, and historical photographs and prints of China, Hong Kong, and Southeast Asia. 2/F, 20 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2524-5302, www.wattis.com.hk.

Galleries 10 CHANCERY LANE GALLERY — Focusing on established and emerging international artists, 10 Chancery Lane consists of two large gallery spaces. It holds exhibitions of sculptures, paintings, photographs, installations and videos, as well as performances by renowned artists. G/F, 10 Chancery Lane, SoHo, 2810-0065, www.10chancerylanegallery.com. AGNèS B. LIBRAIRIE GALERIE — French fashion chain and long-time supporter of the arts, Agnès b. has a contemporary art space dedicated to showing the best from Asia and the world. G/F, 118 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2869-5505, www.agnesb.com. ALISAN FINE ARTS — This well-established gallery has organized more than 100 exhibitions for Chinese artists from around the world. Run by respected art-world figure Alice King, who has worked with the Guggenheim Museum, it also mounts exhibitions for overseas venues. Room 2305, Hing Wai Centre, 7 Tin Wan Praya Rd., Aberdeen, 2526-1091, www.alisan.com.hk. AP Contemporary— AP Contemporary is dedicated to supporting up-and-coming contemporary artists, especially those from developing countries like Brazil, Russia, India and China. Having said that, European and American talents are also represented at this space. 28 Tai Ping Shan St., Sheung Wan, 3105-2148, www.apcontemporary.com. ASIA FINE ART — Dedicated to promoting young Asian artists at affordable prices, this gallery has regular exhibitions of work from China, Vietnam and Indonesia and Myanmar for sale on site and online. 14 Sik On St., Wan Chai (entrance at 99 Queen’s Rd. East), 2522-0405, www.asia-fineart.com.

conferences—97 percent of which are open to the public—the Asia Society is a literal treasure trove. Closed Mon. G/F, 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2103-9511, www.asiasociety.org/ hong-kong. BEN BROWN FINE ARTS — After 10 years at Sotheby’s and two more at a private gallery, Ben Brown and his wife sought to create a space that housed pieces reflective of their tastes—primarily on European modern and contemporary artworks. 301 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2522-9600, www.benbrownfinearts.com. THE CAT STREET GALLERY — Showcasing contemporary and modern art in a variety of mediums, Cat Street exhibits emerging and established artists from around the world. 222 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2291-0006, www.thecatstreetgallery.com. CONNOISSEUR ART GALLERY — Specializing in contemporary Chinese fine art since 1989, Connoisseur features such acclaimed artists as Paris-based Jia Juan-li, renowned Guangzhou artist Zhang Da-zhong and still life artist Liu Ying-zhao. Shop G3, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2868-5358, www.connoisseur-art.com.

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HANART TZ GALLERY — A specialist in contemporary Chinese art, Hanart has exhibited works in oil, ink, print, sculpture, photography and video by mainland, Taiwanese and Hong Kong artists. It offers a wide selection and prices that accommodate almost everyone. 401 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2526-9019, www.hanart.com. Lehmann Maupin Gallery — With the original branch in New York and with its reputation of supporting contemporary art and culture, the Lehmann Maupin Gallery opened its doors here on March 14. Architect Rem Koolhas designed the gallery, making sure to keep the historic columns in the Pedder Building intact. Room 407, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central.2530-0025, www.lehmanmaupin.com.

Opera Gallery

De Sarthe Gallery

DE SARTHE GALLERY — Specializing in the sale of 19th and 20th century masters, previous exhibitions have shown the works of art world greats such as Miro, Picasso and Chu Teh-chun, just to name a few. First opening in Paris in 1977 and branching out across the U.S. and Europe, de Sarthe finally opened its first Asian outpost in Hong Kong in 2011. 8/F, Club Lusitano, 16 Ice House St., Central, 2167-8896, desarthe.com. GAGOSIAN GALLERY — With 14 galleries and counting, the famed Gagosian has chosen Hong Kong as its gateway to Asia. They opened their doors in January 2011 with a bang, featuring an all-new exhibition by Damien Hirst—Gagosian only exhibits the crème-de-lacrème of the art world. Closed Mon. 7/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2151-0555, www.gagosian.com.

OPERA GALLERY — Opera Gallery features works by world-famous international artists, including Picasso, Chagall, Salvador Dali, Gerard Rancinan and Lita Cabellut, among others. W Place, 52 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-1208, www.operagallery.com. Puerta Roja — Puerta Roja was established to promote Latin American art and artists to the Hong Kong audience. Drawings, etchings, glasswork and sculptures are all featured here. Shop A, G/F, Wai Yue Building, 15-17 New St., Sheung Wan, 2803-0332. PICTURE THIS — The city’s largest affordable art gallery specializes in posters, antique maps, prints and early photographs of Hong Kong and China. It also carries antiquarian and secondhand books about Asia, first editions of modern literature, prints and photographs for children’s rooms, and sporting prints. Suite 1308, 13/F, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2525-2820, www.picturethiscollection.com.

Plum Blossoms Gallery

Asia Society Hong Kong

ASIA SOCIETY HONG KONG — Asia Society Hong Kong's big, brand-spankin’-new headquarters are in a beautifully refurbished former storehouse for British artillery and ammunition. Playing host to a myriad of lectures, exhibitions, performances, film screenings, tours, seminars and

a complete restoration service for works of art on paper and canvas. Shop 108, 1/F, Ruttonjee Center, 11 Duddell St., Central, 2525-0529, www.galeriedumonde.com.

Galerie Du Monde

GALERIE DU MONDE — Galerie du Monde hosts exhibitions by Chinese artists including Li Shuang, Le Longyao, Yu Xiaohui, Hon Chifun and Pan Xun. Its conservation studio provides

PLUM BLOSSOMS GALLERY — Recognized for its exhibitions of contemporary Asian art as well as an outstanding collection of museum-quality ancient textiles, Plum Blossoms is an established platform for the promotion of both ancient and modern arts. 14/F, Cheung Tak Building, 30 Heung Yip Rd., Wong Chuk Hang, 2521-2189, www.plumblossoms.com.

Hong Kong

apr il 2013

the complet e guide to

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Art+culture

Red Square Gallery — Red Square Gallery is a window into Contemporary Russian Art. Expanding into four branches, the gallery is dedicated to bringing creative and dynamic artwork to Hong Kong. Shop 2, G/F, 1A Wong Nai Chung Rd., Happy Valley. 2838-0040, www.redsquare-gallery.com. Main branch in Stanley. SHIN HWA GALLERY — Focusing on Asian contemporary art, Shin Hwa features both upcoming and established artists. It is particularly committed to innovative Korean artists. Room 4A, Yue On Commercial Building, 385 Lockhart Rd., Wan Chai, 2803-7960, www.shinhwagallery.com.

White Cube

WHITE CUBE — One of the world’s top contemporary galleries opened its first non-UK outpost in Hong Kong in March of 2012. The gallery represents many members of the Young British Artists (YBA) movement, who are known for their shock factor, confrontational nature and use of disposable materials—for instance, Damien Hirst’s famous dead shark suspended in formaldehyde. Closed Sun-Mon. G-1/F, 50 Connaught Rd. Central, 2592-2000, www.whitecube.com.

Museums FLAGSTAFF HOUSE MUSEUM OF TEAWARE — Located in Flagstaff House, the oldest surviving colonial building in the territory, and once the home of the commander-inchief of British forces in Hong Kong, the museum houses a prized Asian teaware collection. It’s also home to Lock Cha Tea House, which serves myriad varieties of tea and delicate vegetarian dim sum in a cute Chinese-style setting. Closed Tue. 10 Cotton Tree Drive, Hong Kong Park, Central, 2869-0690, www.hk.art.museum. HONG KONG FILM ARCHIVE — A repository of all things related to Hong Kong films, the Archive contains lots of movies, conservation labs, a resource center, exhibition hall and a cinema. Closed Tuesdays. 1/F, 50 Lei King Rd., Sai Wan Ho, 2739-2139. HONG KONG HERITAGE MUSEUM — This modern museum is devoted to preserving the city’s historical, art and cultural heritage. It features permanent exhibitions on the New Territories, Cantonese opera and a Children’s Discovery Gallery. Closed Tues. 1 Man Lam Rd., Sha Tin, 2180-8188, www.heritagemuseum.gov.hk 18 W H E R E HONG KONG I F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 4

Art+culture

What happened at the Pinewood Battery? *

Hong Kong Maritime Museum

HONG KONG MARITIME MUSEUM — This museum holds semi-permanent and special exhibitions tracing Hong Kong's growth into a major world port, and the contributions made by China and the West to the development of ships, maritime exploration, trade and naval warfare. Central Ferry Pier No. 8, 3713-2500, www.hkmaritimemuseum.org. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF ART — One of the city’s largest museums houses fine examples of ancient Chinese art from the Han to the Qing dynasties. The exhibition galleries regularly showcase contemporary and international works. 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-0116, www.hk.art.museum. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF HISTORY — This fascinating museum explores 6,000 years of Hong Kong history, from the Neolithic to the post-war period, with recreations of prehistoric scenes and the early colonial era. Closed Tue. 100 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-9042, hk.history.museum.

Hong Kong Museum Of Medical Sciences

HONG KONG MUSEUM OF MEDICAL SCIENCES — Located in an elegant brick building, this museum charts the development of medicine in the city. It was the first to focus on both Western and traditional Chinese approaches to healthcare. Closed Mon. 2 Caine Lane, MidLevels, 2549-5123, www.hkmms.org.hk. LAW UK FOLK MUSEUM — Law Uk, which means “Law’s House” after its original owner, is an 18th-century, Qing-dynasty Hakka village house, complete with furnishings and artifacts. Free admission. Closed Thu. 14 Kut Shing St., Chai Wan, 2896-7006, www.hk.history.museum. LEI CHENG UK HAN TOMB MUSEUM — Housing a 2,000-year-old tomb with four chambers, this is one of the city’s most fascinating monuments. Closed Thu. 41 Tonkin St., Sham Shui Po, 2386-2863, hk.history.museum.

*Learn about this and other fascinating facts in

Historical Hong Kong Hikes A guide to 15 remarkable treks, detailing the rich history of the SAR’s peaks, valleys and urban neighborhoods

In all major bookstores now! Or order yours at: www.historicalhkhikes.com with free delivery.

F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 4 I WHERE H ONG KONG 19

dining | The Guide

New Year Noms Don’t say neigh to a good meal for the Year of the Horse. By Anya Beniac

hat better way to ring in a new lunar year than with a festive feast? Celebrate the Year of the Horse Hong Kong-style— with lots and lots of food.

Dinner and a View If you’re after food with a panoramic view—of the huge fireworks display on Feb 1—make a reservation at Hotel Icon’s oh-so-swanky Above & Beyond. From now until Feb 7, the restaurant is serving special CNY treats such as turnip pudding, or braised oyster with “fat choy” black moss. Above & Beyond is also offering an eightcourse set dinner with a glass of Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage 2004 champagne, for $1,488 per person. 28/F, Hotel Icon, 17 Science Museum Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 3400-1318. Harbour Restaurant at the Harborview Hotel is hosting two meals: a Chinese New Year dinner buffet from now to Feb 3, and a fireworks display dinner on Feb 1. There will be everything from tender and tangy braised pig’s knuckles, to grilled snow crab legs. Prices range from $318-468. Harbour Restaurant, 4 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2802-4284.

Salmon for prosperity at Man Ho

Banquet Time From now till Feb 6, two-starred T’ang Court at the Langham is breaking in the Year of the Horse with some New Year specialties, including turnip rings stuffed with conpoy, double-boiled dried oysters, and pig’s tongue and sea moss soup. Find yourself in need of something a little lighter? Try T’ang Court’s innovative CNY dim sum, such as their crispy-fried oyster and shrimp rolls, or the golden-fried bean curd frites with mixed nuts and mayonnaise. The Langham Hotel, 8 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2132-7898.

From now until Feb 9, dine like an emperor at the SkyCity Marriott’s Man Ho Chinese Restaurant. This CNY they’re whipping up a feast: in addition to some extra festive bites on the standard menu, such as deep-fried mashed lotus seed puffs, SkyCity has also created two five-course set lunch/dinner menus, for $388 or $488 per person with dishes including roasted suckling pig with goose liver. SkyCity Marriott, 1 Sky City Rd. East, Chek Lap Kok, Lantau, 3969-1888.

New Year Treats Get a taste for traditional New Year’s delicacies. By Elizabeth Chu New Year pudding (nin gou)

This chewy, sweet cake is a popular treat: it’s a lucky food as it implies “nin nin gou”—prosperity year on year. It’s easy to make at home, and best eaten pan-fried so that it’s crispy on the outside and sticky inside.

Crystallized lotus seeds (tong lin zi) This sweet and crunchy snack is a must in every family’s candy tray during CNY. Families pay each other visits during Chinese New Year and the host presents a red tray of sweets representing happiness in the new year, but lotus seeds have an additional meaning: many offspring.

20 W H E R E HONG KONG I F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 4

Sweet rice dumplings (tong yuen) A warm and filling dish in the cold February weather, these little dumpings are most commonly filled with black sesame or peanut paste and served in a hot, sweet ginger soup. “Tong yuen” sounds like the Chinese word for “reunion,” which is what CNY is all about for family and friends.

Kumquat (gum gut) This lucky fruit looks like a tiny orange and tastes similar, with a more sour profile. “Gum” means “gold” in Chinese, and so the kumquat symbolizes fortune and wealth. People put kumquat trees in their homes, shops—everywhere during CNY—to “attract” prosperity for the coming year.

dining

Love is in the Fare Two Valentine’s Day specials. By Jayson Albano

Agnès b.

Admiralty

Ammo

Ammo — Western. $$$ Tapas and pastas can be had at this posh Asia Society eatery housed in a former British army magazine compound. 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2537-9888. DAN RYAN’S — American. $$$ Dan Ryan’s prides itself on Chicago-style chow. Shop 112, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2845-4600. METROPOL — Dim sum. $ Beef balls, steamed shrimp dumplings, stuffed rice rolls and other local specialties are wheeled around in traditional trolleys for an authentic dim sum experience. 4/F, United Centre, 95 Queensway, 2865-1988. NICHOLINI’S — Italian. $$$$ This restaurant gets kudos from honest-to-goodness Italians, and that’s good enough for us. 8/F, Conrad International Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2521-3838.

Chez Patrick

Love Shack

A French Affair

Enjoy a delectable candle-lit dinner for two, with a twist. The Agnès b. LPG Valentine’s Day dinner special is a five-course meal that includes seafood, truffles, abalone and wagyu. With two options for each course, the special is designed such that you and your partner can order both dishes from each course, to share. There’s also a surprise dessert to end things on a sweet note, as well as a small gift to take home. The meal for two will set you back $1,680, not including service.

Chez Patrick’s three-course Valentine meal is inspired by ingredients used to symbolize love and affection. The set comes with individual dishes as well as sharing platters, allowing guests to choose from salmon, foie gras or a traditional French soup for a starter; braised beef or quail for mains; and red velvet opera cake or French cheeses for dessert. The meal costs $688 for two. Feb 14-16. 2/F, Garden East, 222 Queen’s Rd. East, Wan Chai, 2541-1401.

Feb 7-14. Agnès b. Le Pain Grillé, 15/F, Cubus, 1 Hoi Ping Rd., Causeway Bay, 2577-2718.

PETRUS — French. $$$$ This place can best be equated with a fine wine: expensive but so pleasing to the palate that it’s worth the money. The décor is a bit ostentatious, but the opulence suits the magnificent view. 56/F, Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2820-8590.

Causeway Bay Hooray — Italian. $$ Al fresco drinks and dining in a casual setting complete with a magnificent harbor view. Shop P502, 5/F, World Trade Center, 280 Gloucester Rd., Causeway Bay, 2895-0885. IPPUDO — Ramen. $ Japan’s famous chain serves ramen in bowls so enormous they should be called cauldrons, with a meaty, savory broth, tender pork pieces, springy noodles and tangy spring onions topped with fungus and bean sprouts. 2/F, 8 Russell St., 2892-2387. Sorabol — Korean. $$ The smell wafting from the open barbecues in the middle of each table will get your appetite going— which is a good thing, since you’ll want to try everything. 18/F, Lee Theatre Plaza, 99 Percival St., 2881-6823.

Tott’s — Modern Asian/Western. $$$-$$$$ Sophisticated décor, harbor-view seats, and perfectly crafted entrees are the hallmark here. The attentive service also deserves special mention. 34/F, The Excelsior, 281 Gloucester Rd., 2837-6786.

Central & Lan Kwai Fong AMBER — Modern French. $$$$ Modern, inventive French cuisine meets attentiongrabbing décor. 7/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2132-0066. Brickhouse — Mexican. $$. Imagine street-side Mexican combined with hipster-chic décor and upbeat music. Phone reservations not allowed and queues form quickly at peak hours so early arrival recommended. G/F, 20A D’Aguilar St. Boqueria — Spanish. $$$ Feast on tasty tapas and bomba rice paellas at this chain from New York. 7/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2321-8681. CAPRICE — French. $$$$ Three Michelin Stars. Splurge on haute cuisine at this French restaurant staffed by chefs formerly of Le Cinq in Paris. The gorgeous interior includes floorto-ceiling windows. 6/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 3196-8860. F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 4 I WHERE H ONG KONG 21

dining | The Guide The Peak THE PEAK LOOKOUT — International. $$$ Offering an alfresco terrace with a view, this restaurant features an open, bright and airy environment—more like a mountain lodge than a country club—and excellent fare. 121 Peak Rd., 2849-1000. Lung King Heen

Duddell’s

Duddell’s — Cantonese. $$$. Serves Chinese fusion by former T’ang Court Chef Siu Hin-chi. The art pieces on display are another highlight. Levels 3 & 4, Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell St., 2525-9191.

LUNG KING HEEN — Cantonese. $$$-$$$$ Three Michelin Stars. The name means “view of the dragon” and the floor-to-ceiling windows make the case. Stylish décor, flawless service and traditional as well as innovative dishes only add to the appeal. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 3196-8880.

ISLAND TANG — Cantonese. $$$$ Shanghai Tang founder David Tang’s art-deco dining space is a welcome bright spot amid Central’s modern office towers, with top local cuisine to match. Shop 222, 2/F, The Galleria, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2526-8798. ISOLA BAR & GRILL — Italian. $$$$ The glam factor is off the scale, with stunning harbor views and high ceilings, not to mention handmade pastas, pizzas, risottos and more. Shop 3071-75, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., 2383-8765.

SPICES — Pan-Asian. $$$ Below a glassy high-rise, this restaurant is devoted to showcasing the “fabled ingredients of the exotic food of the East.” It also offers a fantastic view of the South China Sea and the sandy shores below. G/F, The Arcade, 109 Repulse Bay Rd., 2292-2821. THE VERANDAH — Continental/International. $$$ Book brunch in time to get a seat at this popular spot. On other days, the a la carte menu never disappoints. Closed Mon. 109 Repulse Bay Rd., 2292-2822.

Fatty Crab — Southeast Asian. $$$. A branch of the popular Fatty Crab Restaurant in New York. Expect a delectable mix of South-East Asian flavors. 11-13 Old Bailey St., 2521-2033. INAGIKU — Japanese. $$$ The Hong Kong branch of one of Japan’s oldest and bestknown restaurants, it lives up to the buzz: authentic, delicious and quiveringly fresh. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 2805-0600.

Repulse Bay

SoHo Mayta

Mayta — Peruvian. $$$ Indulge in colorful and multi-textured dishes like seafood ceviche at one of LKF’s most popular new restos. 3/F, Grand Progress Building, 15-16 Lan Kwai Fong, 2790-0928. pierre — French. $$$$ Masterminded by threeMichelin-star chef Pierre Gagnaire, this is a bastion of fine French dining. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4001.

JASHAN — Indian. $$ Immediately impressive, with dim lighting, vermilion walls and colonial furnishings, Jashan offers an extensive menu, delicious food and hotel-level service. 1/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., 3105-5300. POSTO PUBBLICO — American Italian. $$$ Hip Greenwich Village types come to get their fill of such dishes as veal meatballs and sandwiches of homemade mozzarella, eggplant and lashings of balsamic vinegar. 28 Elgin St., 2577-7160.

Yardbird

Sevva

L’Atelier De Joel Robuchon

L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON — French. $$$$ The Frenchman named “Chef of the Century” by Gault Millau designs authentic dishes with exquisite finesse and precision, which are then turned out by highly trained chefs in the open kitchen. Shop 315 & 401, 4/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2166-9000. LIN HEUNG Lau— Cantonese. $$ The setup has changed little in more than 50 years and it still remains a popular hangout for those craving a bit of old Hong Kong nostalgia and really, really good food. Most people come here for daytime dim sum, but dinner’s great too. 160-164 Wellington St., Central, 2544-4556. 22 W H E R E HONG KONG I F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 4

SEVVA — Contemporary. $$$$ The brainchild of local socialite Bonnie Gokson, this 22,000-square-foot penthouse restaurant comes with a buzzing wraparound terrace. The elegant eatery serves dishes drawn from Cantonese, Shanghainese, Indian and British culinary concepts. 25/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., 2537-1388. YELLOW DOOR KITCHEN — Sichuan. $$ Hong Kong’s first private kitchen, this favorite has been serving up fiery Sichuan cuisine since the early 1990s. 6/F, Cheung Hing Commercial Building, 37 Cochrane St., 2858-6555. ZUMA — Japanese. $$$$ This is one goodlooking restaurant, split over two floors and linked by a sumptuous staircase. It’s the local branch of London’s famed eatery, offering a sophisticated twist on the traditional izakaya. 5-6/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3657-6388.

YARDBIRD — Yakitori. $$$ This is a no-frills yet achingly modern two-story yakitori joint in a trendy corner of the district. The skewers are mostly chicken-based, and taken from every part of the chicken’s body from the heart to the skin. Don’t forget to sample the house sake. 33-35 Bridges St., 2547-9273.

Tsim Sha Tsui

Angelini

ANGELINI — Italian. $$$-$$$$ With Italian native Marco Medaglia at the helm, Angelini serves up unpretentious food, with an emphasis on ingredients air-freighted from Italy three times a week. Also has a great harbor view. Mezzanine, Kowloon Shangri-La, 64 Mody Rd., 2733-8750.

dining

FELIX — Fusion. $$$$ Still one of the swankiest restaurants in town, with Philippe Starck décor, modern food and famous bathrooms. It’s glam, contemporary and kid-free. 28/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, 2696-6778. FOOK LAM MOON — Cantonese. $$$$ Devotees swear this place serves the best Cantonese cuisine in the world. It’s been the place to go for southern Chinese delicacies for more than five decades. 55 Kimberley Rd., 2366-0286. HUTONG — Northern Chinese. $$$$ Dark wood furnishings and a fabulous harbor view make for a modern-day Chinese dining hall. The food is beautifully presented northern Chinese haute cuisine. 28/F, 1 Peking Rd., 3428-8342. MORTON’S OF CHICAGO — Steak. $$$$ With huge slabs of prime, aged beef accompanied by what looks like the winning entries in a hard-fought vegetable show, Morton’s is one of the best steak restaurants in Hong Kong. 4/F, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers, 20 Nathan Rd., 2732-2343.

Nobu

NOBU — Japanese. $$$$ Mind-blowingly artistic in presentation, design and execution, this famous restaurant deserves the hype. Sushi is a must, as is the amazing black cod. 2/F, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., 2313-2323. Ruth’s Chris — Steak. $$$$ American steakhouse, with USDA Prime cuts served alongisde rich sides like spinach au gratin and tempura onion rings. Shop 108-110, 1/F, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2366-6000.

Spoon

SPOON — French. $$$$ Chef Alain Ducasse’s restaurant has floor-to-ceiling windows, a fabulous harbor view and an innovative modern menu. Lobby, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., 2313-2323. T’ANG COURT — Cantonese. $$$$ This little gem serves some of the city’s finest Cantonese cuisine. 1/F, Langham Hotel, 8 Peking Rd., 2132-7898. F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 4 I WHERE H ONG KONG 23

dining

Whisk — Modern European. $$$ Whisk is known for its contemporary European dishes and extensive wine list that is relatively more affordable than other fine diners. 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., 2368-1111. YE SHANGHAI — Shanghainese. $$$ With upscale cuisine served in shareable portions, this is the place for Shanghainese dishes like camphor-smoked duck with pancakes. Also known for its interior full of fabulous chinoiserie. 6/F, The Marco Polo Hong Kong Hotel, 3 Canton Rd., 2376-3322.

Wan Chai

Bo Innovation

BO INNOVATION — Asian. $$$-$$$$ Experimental cuisine pairing local ingredients with delicacies imported from across the world. Shop 13, 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Rd., 2850-8371.

Catalunya

NO RULES, JUST RIGHT. ‘GO OUTBACK’ TONIGHT! Causeway Bay 2/F, JP Plaza, 22-36 Paterson St. Reservations: 2881 8012 Wanchai 1/F, De Fenwick, 8-12 Fenwick St. Reservations: 3101 0418

www.outback.com.hk

Whampoa Shop 3A, G/F, Site 4, Whampoa Garden, Hunghom Reservations: 2766 2823

Tuen Mun Tsuen Wan

Whampoa Tsim Sha Tsui Wanchai

Tsim Sha Tsui East Taikoo Causeway Bay

Tsim Sha Tsui Shop 1, Level 2, 26 Nathan Rd. Reservations: 3741 1728

24 W H E R E HONG KONG I F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 4

Tsim Sha Tsui East Shops 23-28, Upper Ground Floor, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd. Reservations: 2311 7800 Tsuen Wan Shops 3-5, Level 2, Discovery Park Shopping Centre, 398 Castle Peak Rd. Reservations: 2940 0682 Taikoo Shops G9-G10, G/F, Kornhill Plaza, 1 Kornhill Rd. Reservations: 2560 8246 Tuen Mun Shop 2016-2017, 2/F, Phase 1, Tuen Mun Town Plaza Reservations: 2426 3918

Catalunya — Spanish. $$$$ This 7,500 square feet of restaurant and bar space offers Catalan-style dishes such as roasted suckling pig and lobster rice. G/F, Guardian House, 32 Oi Kwan Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-7900. MADAM SIXTY EIGHT — European. $$$ At this posh eclectic eatery, an open kitchen faces the diners, with chefs readying exquisitely prepared dishes scurrying around. Shop 8, 1/F, The Podium, J Senses, 60 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2527-2558. THE PAWN — British. $$$ Serving fabulous food in a faithful restoration of an 1888 landmark building, The Pawn houses a bar and a restaurant with a roof and a breezy balcony overlooking Johnston Road. The menu has modern British fare with a luxurious twist. 2/F, 62 Johnston Rd., 2866-3444. WOOLOOMOOLOO — Australian/New Zealand. $$$ This steakhouse is several places at once: a laid-back wine bar and a casual drinks terrace on the rooftop, and a fine-dining steakhouse below. 31/F-Rooftop, The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2893-6960.

Taste of the city special advertising section

Spice features the

Enjoy a COMPLIMENTARY DESSERT with this ad

“Bollywood and Belly Dance Night’’,

a regular performance by two belly dancers, held every Thursday at 8:30pm .

* for dine-in and a la carte menu only We provide fine Thai, Indian and Malay cuisine with good selection of fine wines. Come experience our flavours of coriander, cumin, chili and lemongrass. Spice up your evening with friends!

Our chefs have also come up with a special menu to swing and sway to the diners’ delight of this groovy atmosphere.

www.spice-restaurant.hk 2/F, No.1 Knutsford Terrace, Tsim Sha Tsui, Tsim Sha Tsui Kowloon. Reservations: 2191 9880 / 2191 9886 Daily Opening Hours: Lunch: Mon – Sun 12nn – 3pm Dinner: Sun – Thu 6pm – 11pm Fri – Sat 6pm – 11:30pm

F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 4 I WHERE H ONG KONG 25

Drinks | The Guide

Ham it Up A new tapas bar takes inspiration from the traditional bodegas in Spain. By Adele Wong

Prolific local restaurateur Yenn Wong has unleashed yet another trendy joint to the public. Located on the same street as Wong and celebrity chef Jason Atherton’s first collaborative Spanish restaurant, 22 Ships, Ham & Sherry is the more traditional of the two, serving Iberico platters, fried seafood and other classic tapas, with no-nonsense sherries to go along. Patterned floor-to-ceiling Azulejo tiles in sharp blue and white are the first things

Bars & Clubs

Azure — Stunning view, minimalist blue décor and great cocktails. 29/F, LKF Hotel, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 3518-9330. Beijing Club — This impressive megaclub recently celebrated its sixth anniversary and is the biggest in town. Expect wet-look vinyl walls, gold-plated bathrooms and a youthful crowd. 2-3/F & 5/F, Wellington Place, 2-8 Wellington St., Central, 2810-9983.

Angel’s Share

121BC — This import from Sydney, Australia offers biodynamic wines from Italian producers. 42-44 Peel St., Central, 2395-0200. ANGEL’S SHARE — This unique drinking loft is specifically designed for whisky lovers. Sourced from Scotland to Japan, there’s enough aged golden liquid here to suit even the most discerning single-malt drinkers. 2/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-8388. AQUA spirit — For cocktails with a killer vista, you can do no better than this swanky high-rise venue with an eagle’s eye view of the harbor. 30/F, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288.

Blckbrd — This chilled-out spot has an official “no loud music” policy, making it the perfect place for a few low-key drinks. Located on the sixth floor, the outdoor terrace is a serene place to watch the world go by. 6/F, 8 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2545-8555. BLUE BAR — The upscale Blue Bar is a big hit with the cocktail set. Yes, the martinis are worth getting dressed up for. Lobby, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8888. Café Gray Deluxe — Beside the seductively stretched bar are cozy booths for intimate lounging, and its 49th-floor perch guarantees breathtaking harbor views. Cocktail lovers should try the Hong Kong

that catch your eye at this modestly sized venue. There’s a square-shaped bar right in the center, topped by a glass-cased shelf flaunting full-legged hams and sherry bottles. Along the sides are cozy four-person tables made of dark wood. Sherry is obviously the drink of choice here. Osborne Group bottles from El Bulli’s old cellar in Spain can be sampled from $1,990 per bottle. Briny white-winelike La Guitas at $36 per glass, or darker, richer Amontillados starting from $670 per bottle are also on offer. There’s also a small sherry-biased cocktail menu with options like “Brain Freeze” (manzanilla sherry, watermelon, basil and lemon) and “Let’s Go Camping” (Michter’s rye, oloroso sherry, peach brandy, Campari, absinthe) that’s not for the faint of heart. G/F, 1-7 Ship St., Wan Chai, 2555-0628.

Highball. 49/F, The Upper House, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106. Central Wine Club — This exclusive spot on Wyndham Street was designed with oenophiles in mind. Luxe, modern Baroque surrounds keep pace with the slow jazz and contemporary tunes. 3/F, Sea Bird House, 22-28 Wyndham St., Central, 2147-3448. CLUB@28 — This stylish bar has killer views, deadly cocktails and its very own outdoor oasis called The Pavilion. It’s members only, but you can join on arrival and it’s free. 28/F, Crowne Plaza Hotel, 8 Leighton Rd., Causeway Bay, 3980-3300. DRAGON-I — Watch the bold and the beautiful work the celeb-studded room. It’s usually packed with models, especially on Wednesday nights. Podium, The Centrium, 60 Wyndham St., Central, 3110-1222. EXECUTIVE BAR — So quiet that the sound of a ninja’s sword slicing through silk would be cause for shushing. Well, not really, but it is quiet, Japanese and well-stocked with Scotch— the drink of the introspective man. 27/F, Bartlock Centre, 3 Yiu Wa St., Causeway Bay, 6710-2057.

For weekly event listings, pick up a free copy of HK Magazine (available at bars, restaurants and coffee shops).

26 W H E R E HONG KONG I F e b r u a r y 2014

Drinks GRAPPA’S CELLAR — This bustling after-work spot features some of the city’s top jazz musicians. B/F, Jardine House, 1 Connaught Place, Central, 2521-2322.

MO BAR — The bar at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental is a sleek, upscale addition to the nightlife scene. G/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2132-0077. Ozone — Located 118 floors above the ground, this watering hole boasts a superlative title: the highest bar in Hong Kong. This nightspot is a must-see, especially due to its drop-dead gorgeous lookout onto Victoria Harbour. 118/F, The Ritz-Carlton Hotel, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2263.

Jaa Bar

Jaa Bar — Located in a small alleyway off of Peel Street, Jaa Bar combines comfort and charm for an exclusive experience. The centerpiece of the ornate enclave is a custom-made wooden bar pieced together from classical furniture pieces. 1 Pak Tsz Lane, Central, 2815-8887.

Quinary — Grab molecular cocktails in a chilledout lounge off Hollywood Road. Be impressed by local mixologist Antonio Lai’s creative drinks list. G/F, 56-58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-3223.

KEE CLUB — A good concierge should be able to get you into this exclusive members-only club, where you can sip a cocktail and check out the Picassos, antiques and colonial-style service. 6/F, Yeung Kee Building, 32 Wellington St., Central, 2810-9000. L’etage — With the feel of a true gentlemen’s club, this is a place for refined Hongkongers to sit back and relax with a traditionally made cocktail in one hand and a cigar in another. It’s worth coming back just to watch head bartender Katsuhisa Hirakawa hand-carve spheres of ice for whisky. 22/F, Macau Yat Yuen Centre, 525 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2522-5300. LE BOUDOIR — This Francophone hangout is all sultry drapes, chandeliers and velvet upholstery. The cocktails are stellar, too. B/F, 65 Wyndham St., Central, 2530-3870. LILY — Get buzzed in and out of Lily’s fabulous secret room, the Blind Pig. Aesthetes will be delighted that so much attention has been paid to the visual elements of the venue. 6/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-6166. Lion Rock — Lion Rock is the place to unwind and relax while having one (or more) of 193 signature cocktails. Enjoy the awesome view and weekly wine and whisky tastings. 3/F, Royal Plaza Hotel, 193 Prince Edward Rd. West, Mong Kok, 2622-6167. M BAR — Set against the heights of Hong Kong’s skyline, the Mandarin Oriental’s M Bar makes for a ravishingly chic hangout. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4002. Martini BAR — This stylish hotel bar has nightly entertainment, a range of cocktails beyond just martinis and is one of the few cigar lounges in town. G/F, The Royal Garden, 69 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2733-2995. MCSORLEY’S ALE HOUSE — Woody, Irish and vaguely Victorian, McSorley’s is the biggest pub in SoHo. 55 Elgin St., Central, 2522-2646.

The Lawn

The Lawn — This outdoor garden is a genuine urban oasis, exuding a serene, intimate vibe and illuminated entirely by a few candles. 6/F, The Upper House, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106. The Parlour — The kitschy-chic bar sits betwixt the equally droll west and east dining rooms, and looks like an exotic dive in 70s London Chinatown. Hullet House, 2A Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3988-0101.

The Pawn Red Bar

RED BAR — Located on a terrace atop IFC Mall, this funky destination bar has a breathtaking public outdoor area with harbor views. 4/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance St., Central, 8129-8882. RIEDEL ROOM — The world’s first Riedel Room offers exclusive wines to be enjoyed in Riedel crystal glassware. Lobby, JW Marriott Hotel, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2841-3836.

THE PAWN — The modern British restaurant and bar, a former pawn shop, has an outdoor balcony from which to enjoy a view of Hong Kong’s 100-year-old trams. 62 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-3444. The Tonno — This complex features a bar, a clubbing zone, a restaurant, a live music lounge and karaoke rooms, taking “allaround entertainment” to a whole new level. Head here for an epic marathon of dancing, drinking, Elton John hits, dart games and Shanghainese buns. 5 Tonnochy Rd., Wan Chai, 3125-3888.

Sake Bar Ginn — Sake sommelier Ayuchi Momose is behind this upper-floor bar. In addition to serving 100 types of sake and 30 Japanese tapas, she also imports special sakes by microbreweries. Shop 4C, 4/F, Ho Lee Commercial Building, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2536-4355. Salon de Ning — Decadent Shanghai art deco lounge with live music Tue-Thu. UG/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2696-6705. SHORE — A chill outdoor space and one of the most extensive drinks selection in town. Newly renovated. 3/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2915-1638. Staunton’s — Considered the best “peoplewatching spot” in Hong Kong, Staunton’s has the right equation for a chill evening drink. It also has an eclectic menu. 10-12 Staunton St., Central, 2973-6611. SUGAR — Sink into one of the sofas at this swanky rooftop bar and enjoy the amazing views of the harbor. 32/F, East Hotel, 29 Tai Koo Shing Rd., Quarry Bay, 3968-3738.

Vibes

VIBES — The Mira hotel’s svelte alfresco drinks venue is home to a stunning secret garden. 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5999. VOLAR — Frequented by models and wannabes, Volar can be exclusive, but you can dance the night away to top DJs. B/F, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2810-1510. WOOLOOMOOLOO — This steakhouse outlet boasts a gorgeous rooftop with stunning views of Victoria Harbour and the Happy Valley horse racing track. 31/F, The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2893-6960. F e b r u a r y 2014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 27

ShopS+Services | The Guide

Top Shops Shop till you drop at two new stores in town. By Katie Kenny

A Bit of Tang Serial entrepreneur Sir David Tang has already conquered Hong Kong’s high society with China Club and Shanghai Tang, but now the more wallet-friendly Tang Tang Tang Tang has finally arrived (the four Tangs are meant to be sung to the tune of Beethoven’s Fifth Symphony). This lifestyle store, which sits underneath The Pawn restaurant in Wan Chai, offers chic home products—think retro-colonial Hong Kong with a modern western twist. So if you’re looking to spice up your digs with a little Hong Kong feel, or you’re after a cool gift for overseas buddies, then TTTT could be right up your alley. 66 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2525-2112.

Dream On If you’re a fan of vintage couture (Chanel, YSL, Dior—the list goes on) then you’ll feel like you’ve hit the jackpot at Reverie— A Girl Can Dream. Think “Mad Men”-esque full skirts, padded shoulders in jackets like Melanie Griffith circa “Working Girl” and flapper-girl-worthy amounts of jewels. Tang Tang Tang Tang

23/F, 1 Duddell St., Central, 2337-6998.

Reverie

Almost all goods, apart from certain types of alcohol and tobacco, are tax-free.

28 W H E R E HONG KONG I F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 4

ShopS+Services | The Guide

What a Stud! Souvenir ideas for the Year of the Horse. By William Hodson and Adele Wong

3 2

8 5 1. Shanghai Tang horse-shaped bookends $2,480 2. Adam & Ziege horse figurine at Exclusivités $340 3. DKNY Lunar New Year Capsule horse emblem T-Shirt $3,590 4. Cath Kidston red polkadot wallet $420 5. Godiva 2014 Chinese New Year chocolate gift box (9pcs) $288 6. Monki horse socks $30 7. Shanghai Tang x Moleskine notebook 2014 Year of the Horse limited edition $350 8. Soonsaloon horse napkin ring at Homeless $695

Shopping Centers APM — In the center of Kwun Tong, APM opens late (11am) but closes even later (2am). It boasts 150 shops, a cinema, more than 20 international restaurants and a convenient link to the MTR station. Millennium City 5, 418 Kwun Tong Rd., Kwun Tong, 3148-1200. ELEMENTS — Two floors and a million square feet of retail heaven beneath Hong Kong’s tallest building, the ICC, this luxury mall offers international cuisine and world-class shopping. Other features include a cinema, ice rink and enormous roof garden. 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2735-5234.

30 W H E R E HONG KONG I F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 4

Monki Shop 29-31, 1/F, Langham Place, 8 Argyle St., Mong Kok, 3585-8026. Shanghai Tang Flagship Store 3-4/F, 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333. Godiva Shop 1029-30, 1/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2805-0518. DKNY Shop 1085, Elements, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2196-8300.

Exclusivités Shop 3325, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-0579. Homeless Shop 119, 1/F, Style House, The Park Lane, Causeway Bay, 3620-3675. Cath Kidston Shop 8, G/F, Empire Court, 2-4 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2808-0792.

HARBOUR CITY — This enormous stretch of shops runs along Canton Road for what seems like miles. Its four levels of shops, services and restaurants sprawl across over 2 million square feet. 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2118-8601.

IFC Mall Hysan Place

HYSAN PLACE — This brand-new mall is a great one-stop shopping destination, with over 120 stores (including hard-to-find Japanese brands) and tons of high-quality dining options. 500 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2886-7222.

IFC MALL — This popular shopping center is home to more than 200 international high-end brands with Lane Crawford acting as an anchor. It also has a luxurious cinema, and some of the finest dining in the city. Easily accessible via MTR, Airport Express and Star Ferry. 8 Finance St., Central, 2295-3308.

ShopS+Services | The Guide HORIZON PLAZA — It may not look promising but this is something of a mecca for bargain fashion, furniture and Chinese antiques. The industrial high-rise features Lane Crawford and Joyce outlets. Also look for homeware emporium Tequila Kola and antiques warehouse Shambala. 2 Lee Wing St., Ap Lei Chau, 2554-9089. ISLAND BEVERLEY — Browse through closetsized boutiques offering the best of hip local designers. 1 Great George St., Causeway Bay, 2890-6823. THE LANDMARK — The Landmark is a fashion mecca centered around a five-story atrium. Don’t miss iconic London department store Harvey Nichols. 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3428-8086. LANGHAM PLACE — Occupying about 600,000 square feet, Langham Place houses fashion and lifestyle stores and more than 20 restaurants. It’s within walking distance of the Ladies’ Market and Fa Yuen Street. 8 Argyle St., Mongkok, 3514-9088, www.langhamplace.com.hk. LEE GARDENS — Divided into Lee Gardens and Lee Gardens Two, this luxury mall is stuffed with high-end retailers such as Gucci, Hermes, Louis Vuitton and more. Lee Gardens Two has children’s fashion shops, and there are plenty of restaurants to choose from. 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2907-2166, www.hysan.com.hk.

TIMES SQUARE — One of Hong Kong’s largest malls, this 13-story complex contains more than 230 shops—including Lane Crawford, upscale Japanese supermarket City’super, Page One books and a cinema. 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2118-8900.

Western Market — An Edwardian-styled building with restaurants and shops selling Chinese crafts and fabrics. 323 Des Voeux Rd. Central, Sheung Wan, 6029-2675.

Shops, Boutiques and Local Designers

Harvey Nichols — The Hong Kong branch of London’s department store is a haven of international brands, with a good restaurant— the Fourth Floor —and a fabulous beauty department. The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3695-3388.

Blanc de Chine — Modern Chinese luxury clothing and accessories for women and men. Shop 123, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2104-7934. Daydream Nation — A locally grown label that incorporates fashion with other art forms like theater, dance, music, film and visual arts. They offer their own collection of clothing and accessories as well as works from local artists and indie bands. Daydream Nation Circus Shop, 2/F, Hong Kong Arts Centre, 2 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2817-6313.

Department Stores

Joyce

JOYCE — Named after founder and Hong Kong’s first lady of fashion, Joyce Ma, this is the place for red-hot fashion and accessories, cult beauty brands and too-chic housewares. G/F, New World Tower, 18 Queen’s Rd. Central, 28101120; Shop 232, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2523-5944; Shop 106, Harbour City, 2-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-8128. G.O.D.

G.O.D. — Some “Goods of Desire” for those searching for the perfect couch or unique home accessories. G-1/F, 48 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-1876. Kapok — Offers meticulously selected international and local brands for menswear, womenswear, bags and accessories, as well as lifestyle products. G/F, 5, St Francis Yard Wan Chai, 2549-9254.

Harvey Nichols at Pacific Place

SPY Henry Lau — Edgy and bold fashion for men and women. 1/F, 5 Cleveland St., Causeway Bay, 2317-6928.

PACIFIC PLACE — One of the most popular malls in Hong Kong, Pacific Place has four floors of upscale shops and restaurants anchored by a massive Harvey Nichols. There’s also a nice range of eateries and a multi-screen cinema. 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8900. PRINCE’S BUILDING — Prince’s Building is linked by covered walkway to The Landmark, Chater House, Alexandra House and The Galleria. A cozy mixture of the uberfashionable, the artistic and the maternal, it also houses the excellent Oliver’s supermarket. 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2500-0555.

Squarestreet — Seriously hipster shoes and accessories. G/F, 15 Square St., Sheung Wan, 2362-1086.

One Peking — Satisfy your thirst for designer wear with Dior, Fendi, Miu Miu and Cartier. 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3417-3000.

Vivienne Tam — Elegant, feminine contemporary dresses with a Chinese twist. Shop 209, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2918-0238.

Rise Commercial Building — A playground for hip, trendy and young fashionistas. 5-11 Granville Circuit, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-4723.

Walter Ma — Well-established designer offering luxury fashion. 174 Wellington St., Causeway Bay, 2838-7655.

32 W H E R E HONG KONG I F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 4

Lane Crawford

LANE CRAWFORD — This Hong Kong institution is almost as old as the city itself, and just as fashionable. It’s stacked with must-have designer brands as well as handbags, shoes, silver, linen, crystal and everything in between. 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2118-3388.

Squarestreet

SHANGHAI TANG SHANGHAI TANG — Shanghai Tang specializes in a funky fusion of traditional and contemporary Chinese design. You’ll find kitsch accessories, great housewares, fun T-shirts, fashion for men and women and incredibly beautiful bespoke cheongsams. The brand-new flagship is worth a visit. 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333.

ShopS+Services

SOGO — Japan’s most famous department store sits at one of the city’s busiest intersections. 555 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2833-8338.

The Swank

THE SWANK — Representing established designers as well as up-and-coming talents, The Swank has been one of the finest local fashion houses since 1955. It has 17 freestanding boutiques and points-of-sale in major department stores. Shop 103B, 1/F, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-0842.

Chinese Emporiums CHINESE ARTS AND CRAFTS — Stuffed with the best of Chinese crafts, from tablecloths to objets d’art to some incredible jade, this is one of the best places to stock up on gifts, porcelain, jewelry, cloth and fine antiques. 1/F, Silvercord, 30 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-4061. YUE HWA CHINESE EMPORIUM — Yue Hwa is a great place to pick up souvenirs and gifts, from acupuncture needles to Chinese Zodiac figurines. There is a good selection of cheongsams, tops and trousers tailored from quality silk. 143-161 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2739-3888.

Tailors DAVID FASHIONs — G/F, Shop 15, Empress Plaza, 17-19 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-6884. C LA ELITE FASHIONs— G/F, 1 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-0040. M

L & K bespoke Tailor — G/F, Mirador Y Mansion, 54-64 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2369-7278. CM Nita Fashions — G/F, 16 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha MY Tsui. 2721-9990, www.nitafashions.com. CY

Punjab House — 5/F, Suite C, Golden Crown CMY Court, 66-70 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-6612, www.punjabhouse.com.hk. K

Raja Fashions — G/F, 34C Cameron Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-7624, www.raja-fashions.com. REGAL fashion — G/F, Shop 15, Houston Centre, 63 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-6007. Sam’s Tailor — Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 90-94 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-9423. Shaniel Custom Tailor — G/F, Shop B & C, Comfort Building, 86-88A Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2730-1251. F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 4 I WHERE H ONG KONG 33

Navigate | The Guide

Tourist Information HONG KONG TOURISM BOARD — The Hong Kong Tourism Board is ready to answer all your questions about travel in Hong Kong. Look for visitor centers at the following locations: Hong Kong International Airport (at Buffer Halls A and B, Arrivals Level, Terminal 1); Lo Wu (Arrival Hall, 2/F Lo Wu Terminal Building); Kowloon (Star Ferry Concourse, Tsim Sha Tsui, open daily 8am-8pm); and The Peak Piazza (between The Peak Tower and The Peak Galleria, Hong Kong Island, open daily 9am-9pm). You can also call their Visitor Hotline (2508-1234) from 9am to 6pm. Visit www.discoverhonghong.com for descriptions of attractions plus shopping, dining and touring tips. The website also has a comprehensive description of the month’s events and festivals as well as virtual tours, e-cards, a photo gallery and handy downloadable apps for your phone.

Get Moving

Octopus Cards

Hong Kong has a great public transportation system called the MTR, as well as highly punctual, carefully scheduled buses (with their routes clearly printed in English). Renting a car can be a headache because roads can be confusing and parking costly. It’s cheaper and easier to take a taxi, ferry, tram, bus, hotel limousine, or even a helicopter.

These are “wave-and-go” stored-value cards used across all of Hong Kong’s transportation systems (apart from taxis), and in retail outlets like car parks and convenience stores.

Taxis Taxis are readily available at reasonable prices. Be aware that drivers cannot pick up or drop off on roads marked with double yellow lines, and no waiting is allowed except on unmarked roads. Red taxis serve Hong Kong Island and Kowloon and can go anywhere in the territory. Green taxis cost less but only serve the New Territories. Similarly, blue taxis serve Lantau Island only. Drivers generally speak some English but it is wise to get the hotel staff to write your destination in Chinese characters, or point to one of the destinations in this guide.

The size of a credit card, the Octopus is simply placed on the touch pads at the entrance to public transportation or the cash register in shops. Payment is automatically deducted. Cards can be refilled at MTR stations and any retail outlet that accepts them. Three types of Octopus cards are available. The “On Loan Octopus” costs $150, which includes a $50 deposit and $100 of stored value. The “Sold Octopus” costs $48, and does not include any stored value. The “Airport Express Travel Pass” costs $220/$300 and includes one/two single Airport Express journeys and three days of unlimited rides on the MTR, $20 stored value and a $50 deposit.

Trams have been a part of Hong Kong life for more than 100 years. With a $2.30 flat fare, they are still the cheapest way to get around.

34 W H E R E HONG KONG I F e b r u a r y 2 014

Navigate Buses

The Business of Entertainment A mobile app gives users discounts on shops, salons and restaurants across the city. By Adele Wong and Anya Beniac

Hong Kong has two major bus companies: Kowloon Motor Bus — www.kmb.hk, 2745-4466. citybus / New World First BUS — www.nwstbus.com.hk, 2136-8888/ 2873-0818.

Sights & Attractions AVENUE OF STARS — Fans of Hong Kong movies will find their heroes’ handprints permanently etched in concrete along the Avenue of the Stars, along with a statue of martial artist Bruce Lee. Go at 8pm for the nightly Symphony of Lights. Music plays over loudspeakers here and nowhere else, although the light display can be seen from around the city. Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront. BANK OF CHINA TOWER — I. M. Pei designed this 70-story building and bank headquarters to resemble stalks of bamboo. 1 Garden Rd., Central.

Not sure where to go or what to do, and on a tight budget? Try downloading The Entertainer—a mobile app that gives users various discounts and special offers from participating diners, boutiques and spas in the city. Founded in 2001 in Dubai by Donna Benton, The Entertainer has since spread to 23 major cities around the world, including Hong Kong. Once you download the free app from the app store, you’ll be able to purchase the Entertainer Hong Kong Mobile 2014 edition for $357, which comes with close to 900 buy-one-get-onefree offers. Sample offers include getting one free main course after purchasing another main from the

same restaurant, or getting a free second pedicure. Participating establishments include bars like Common Room (1/F, Wo On Building, 8-13 Wo On Lane, Central, 2525-3599); quirky coffee shops like Opendoor Café + Courtyard in Sai Ying Pun (G/F, 120 Connaught Rd. West, Sai Ying Pun, 3460-3880); entertainment venues like Takeout Comedy (B/F, 34 Elgin St., Central, 6220-4436) and popular restaurants like Alfie's (Shop M18-19, Prince's Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2530-4422). Need some inspration? Scroll through the list of participating establishments, and get an itinerary going.

Big Buddha

BIG BUDDHA — One of the world’s largest Buddhas, the Tian Tan Buddha took 12 years to build and sits on a lotus throne atop Lantau Island. The more than 200 steps to the top are open from 10am to 6pm daily and definitely recommended for the spectacular mountain views. Special admission tickets are available and include a vegetarian meal. Also check out the nearby Po Lin Monastery. Take the MTR to Tung Chung Station and then Bus 23 to Ngong Ping. CHI LIN NUNNERY—An oasis of peace in the heart of Kowloon, this graceful, wooden Buddhist nunnery is the largest building in the world to be constructed using no nails—only wooden dowels and brackets. It’s a 23,600-squaremeter complex whose architectural style dates back to the Tang Dynasty, although the buildings themselves were completed in 1997. It’s centered on a courtyard filled with lotus ponds. Vegetarian food is available. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1888. CONVENTION AND EXHIBITION CENTRE — Finished in time to host the handover ceremony in July 1997, the center’s roof was designed to look like a seabird’s wings in flight. 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai, 2582-8888.

Alfie's in Central is an Entertainer participant

HONG KONG DISNEYLAND — Take a trip back to the 1900s on Main Street, catch a train to Fantasyland, float down the Rivers of Adventure, catch a show or blast through outer space in Tomorrowland. When you’re done charting your exotic surroundings take a moment to dine, shop or cavort with the various Disney characters who roam the park. It’s easy to get to via MTR, bus or car. See the website for transportation details. Lantau Island, 1-830-830, park. hongkongdisneyland.com. F e b r u a r y 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 35

Navigate | The Guide

Hong Kong Dolphinwatch — Catch a glimpse of the pink dolphins, an animal so unique to these waters that it was named the official mascot of Hong Kong’s 1997 handover. Tours depart every Wed, Fri and Sun from the Kowloon Hotel in Tsim Tsa Tsui at 9am, or from Tung Chung. The cruise takes up to five hours, and if no dolphins are seen, the company provides a free “go-again guarantee.” $380 for adults, $190 for children under 12, $50 for babies under 3, with proceeds going to dolphin research. Call 2984-1414 or visit www. hkdolphinwatch.com.

Sam’s The Man

HONG KONG ZOOLOGICAL AND BOTANICAL GARDENS — Home to 12 endangered species, the zoo successfully breeds rare birds and orangutans. Established in 1871, the park retains all the Victorian accents from that era and is an idyllic spot in the middle of the city. Admission free. Open daily 6am-7pm. Garden Rd., Central. A staircase from Upper Albert Rd. leads to the main entrance.

(Just ask his customers)

OPEN-TOP BUS TOUR — One Big Bus day tour ticket includes 24 hour hop-on-hop-off access to the red tour (Hong Kong Island) and the blue tour (Kowloon), as well as prerecorded commentary in 10 languages and other perks. Unit KP-38, 1/F, Kowloon Star Ferry Pier, Tsim Sha Tsui, 3102-9021.

Peak Tram

PEAK TRAM AND VICTORIA PEAK — The world’s steepest funicular railway hauls passengers up Victoria Peak in approximately eight minutes. Once at the top, enjoy panoramic views of the city, or check out the restaurants, shops and various attractions at the Peak Galleria and Peak Tower. The tram runs daily 7am-midnight, tickets $28 one-way, $40 round trip. Garden Road and Cotton Tree Drive, 2522-0922. SIK SIK YUEN WONG TAI SIN TEMPLE — This active Buddhist temple is large and colorful with beautiful adjoining gardens. Have your fortune told by palm readers in the main arcade. Open 7am-5:30pm. A small donation is expected. Follow signs from Wong Tai Sin MTR stop. 2327-8141.

Sam’s Tailor, Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 92-94 Nathan Road, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon. Tel: (852) 2367 9423 / 2721 8375 Fax: (852) 2311 8147

Man Mo Temple

MAN MO TEMPLE — This temple was built in 1847 to honor the God of Literature, Man Cheong, and the God of War, Mo Tai. A grade-1 historical building, it is one of biggest tourist attractions in Central. 124-126 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan.

Ngong Ping 360

NGONG PING 360 — Home to a theater, teahouse, nature center, cultural themed village and more, Ngong Ping 360 is best known for its 5.7-kilometer cable-car service that offers panoramic views of Lantau Island’s lush valleys, the South China Sea and the world-famous Tian Tan Buddha. Start from Tung Chung Station, 3666-0606. OCEAN PARK — Pay a visit to Hong Kong’s two pandas, take a cable car, then prepare for a good scream on Ocean Park's Turbo Drop thrill ride. Remember to check out the Grand Aquarium as well. Aberdeen, 3923-2323. 36 W H E R E HONG KONG I F e b r u a r y 2 014

Star Ferry

STAR FERRY — Cross Victoria Harbour between Hong Kong Island and the Kowloon Peninsula on the Star Ferry. These open-deck ferries are one of Hong Kong’s most recognizable attractions and a common, cheap—and pleasant—form of transportation. Take the MTR to Central or Tsim Sha Tsui and follow the signs. ST. JOHN’S CATHEDRAL — A beautiful cathedral built in the shape of a cross. Open daily from 7am to 6pm for quiet prayer and meditation. Take the MTR to Central.

Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery

TEN THOUSAND BUDDHAS MONASTERY — One of the most celebrated monasteries in Hong Kong, the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery actually has more than 12,800 Buddhas stored in three temples, four pavilions and a five-story pagoda. The one that you’re likely to remember best is the

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mummified Buddhist monk Yuet Kai, who sits in splendor, coated in gold leaf, inside a glass case. Light meals are served at the on-site vegetarian restaurant. Sha Tin MTR, Exit B, 2691-1067, www.10kbuddhas.org. TAI O — This charming fishing village is a maze of stilt houses built over a creek on the very tip of Lantau Island. It’s a fascinating slice of old Hong Kong, with dried fish stalls, the picturesque Tin Hau Temple and a couple of interesting little museums. Take a ferry from Central.

Embassies & Consulates Argentina 2523-3208; Australia 2827-8881; Bangladesh 2827-4278; Belgium 2524-3111; Brazil 2525-7002; Canada 3719-4700; Chile 2827-1826; China (China Travel) 2853-3888; Columbia 2545-8547; Czech Republic 2802-2212; Egypt 2827-0668; Finland 2525-5385; France 3752-9900; Germany 2105-8788; Greece 2774-1682; India 3970-9900; Israel 2821-7500; Italy 2522-0033; Japan 2522-1184; Korea 25294141; Laos 2544-1186; Malaysia 2821-0800; Mexico 2511-3305; Netherlands 25229200; New Zealand 2525-5044; Pakistan 2827-0295; Philippines 2823-8501; Peru 2868-2622; Poland 2840-0779; Russia 2877-7188; Singapore 2527-2212; Spain 2525-3041; Sweden 2521-1212; Switzerland 3509-5000; Taiwan 2530-1187; Thailand 2521-6481; Turkey 2572-1331; United Arab Emirates 2866-1823; United Kingdom 2901-3000; USA 2523-9011; Venezuela 2730-8099; Vietnam 2591-4510.

Financial Matters Generally, business hours are weekdays 9am-5pm, with a lunch hour from 1pm2pm, and Saturdays 9am-1pm. The local currency is the Hong Kong dollar. There is no central mint; instead, notes are issued by three separate private banks and the city’s Monetary Authority. The Hong Kong dollar is pegged to the US dollar at a rate of approximately US$1 to HK$7.79. Denominations include $10, $20, $50, $100, $500 and $1,000 notes. Coins come in denominations of 10, 20 and 50 cents, and one, two, five and 10 dollars. BANKS — Major banks are open weekdays 9am-4:30pm, and Saturdays 9am12:30pm. Banks are closed Sundays and public holidays. Some services, such as foreign exchange-related transactions, are not available at banks one hour before closing. The following details are for the banks’ main offices, call for retail locations: Bank of America, 41/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance St., Central, 2847-5222; Citibank, Citibank Tower, 3 Garden Rd., Central, 2868-8888; HSBC, 1 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2233-3000; Standard Chartered Bank, 4 Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2886-8868.

F e b r u a r y 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 37

Walking Tours | The Guide

A Stroll Through Time Walking through Sheung Wan and Central, discover two areas where the hustle and bustle of a modern city mingle with colorful, age-old traditions.

Start at the Sheung Wan MTR station. Take exit B, turn right and walk about three minutes.

Western Market An Edwardian-style building built in 1906, this grand building is now a historical monument full of themed shops, tailors and restaurants. Walk along Morrison Street and turn right into Wing Lok Street.

Walk back to Des Voeux Road West, turn right into Bonham Strand West and continue until you can turn right into Possession Street. Walk uphill along the sloping street and turn left into Hollywood Road. Turn left at Lok Ku Road, then right onto Upper Lascar Row.

Hollywood Road This thoroughfare is famous for its many curios and antiques shops.

SoHo

At the end of Wing Lok Street, turn left onto Des Voeux Road West.

Walk along Des Voeux Road West and turn left onto Ko Shing Street.

Ko Shing Street This is the wholesale center of Hong Kong’s thriving herbal medicine trade.

38 W H E R E HONG KONG I F e b r u a r y 2 014

Continue walking east along Hollywood Road to the Central Mid-Levels Escalator. Take the escalator up to Staunton Street and the SoHo area.

At 800 meters long, this is the world’s longest connected outdoor escalator.

This street is lined with specialty shops selling ginseng and bird’s nest.

Discover the surprising varieties of exotic dried seafood available on this street.

One of the first traditional-style temples in Hong Kong, this homage to the gods of war and literature was built during the colonial era. Open daily from 8am to 6pm.

Central Mid-Levels Escalator

Wing Lok Street

Des Voeux Road West

Man Mo Temple

Upper Lascar Row

Upper Lascar Row Also known as Cat Street, this alley is a shopper’s paradise lined with traditional street stalls. Walk back uphill to Hollywood Road, turn left and walk until you reach the Man Mo Temple.

You’ll find great food, coffee shops and funky bars in this lively dining district as well as boutiques and markets. Take the steps beside the escalator down to Hollywood Road, turn right and walk to the former Central Police Station Compound, former Central Magistracy and Victoria Prison Compound.

Former Central Police Station Compound This gray building with a Doricstyle façade and columns was built

Former Central Police Station Compound

in 1864. A revitalization project to convert the building for commercial use is underway.

Former Central Magistracy The structure has a majestic appearance, with imposing pillars and other features typical of Greek Revival style.

Victoria Prison Compound Built in 1841, the now-defunct Victoria Prison is believed to be the first western building constructed of durable material in Hong Kong. Walk east along Hollywood Road as it turns into Wyndham Street, and follow the signs to Lan Kwai Fong.

Lan Kwai Fong A buzzing center of clubs, bars and restaurants. A must for night owls and people-watchers. Walk up Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Aguilar Street, cross Wyndham Street and turn left onto Lower Albert Road. Follow the signs to Duddell Street.

Duddell Street Steps & Gas Lamps The lamps at the head and foot of the steps, built between 1875 and 1889, are the only four gas lamps remaining in Hong Kong. For more Hong Kong walks visit www.discoverhongkong.com or call the HKTB hotline on 2508-1234.

HONG KONG TAKE HONG KONG WITH YOU, WHERE EVER YOUR TRAVELS MAY TAKE YOU. Subscribe to WHERE Hong Kongâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eBook edition and have every issue delivered straight to your inbox once monthly. tiny.cc/whk-ebook

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maps

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香港太空館 HK Space 香港文化中心 Museum Hong Kong Cultural Centre

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30 Things we LOve about Hong Kong 6

1 Trying tai chi for free at the Sculpture Court in front of the Hong Kong Museum of Art from 8am to 9am every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. 2 Dressing up for high tea at The Peninsula. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-3169. 3 Watching the sunset from tranquil Pui O Beach, Lantau Island. 4 Having our palms read at the Temple Street night market, Yau Ma Tei.

9 Shaking fortune-telling bamboo sticks at the Wong Tai Sin Temple.

!0 Saying hi to Bruce Lee at the Avenue of Stars, Tsim Sha Tsui. !1 Shopping for antique kitsch on Cat Street (Upper Lascar Row), Sheung Wan. !2 Eating with the locals at a dai pai dong food stall. Gough St., Central. !3 Hiking along the beautiful Sai Kung Peninsula.

6 Seeing all your animated favorites come to life at Hong Kong Disneyland, Lantau Island, 1830-830.

!4 Listening to a Chinese tea expert talking about the varieties of tea, its proper preparation and tea-drinking etiquette. Free talk at Lock Cha Tea Shop from 4pm to 5pm every Monday, Wednesday and Friday. Call 2805-1360.

7 Dining aboard the kitschycool Jumbo Kingdom floating restaurant. Shum Wan Pier Drive, Aberdeen, 2553-9111.

!5 Haggling with hawkers for jade, gold and cheap jewelry at the Jade Market. Kansu and Battery Streets, Yau Ma Tei.

8 Cruising Victoria Harbor on the Duk Ling, an authentic Chinese fishing junk, 2573-5282.

!6 Getting a shave at the Mandarin Barber, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2522-0111.

5 Spotting endangered white dolphins with Dolphinwatch off Lantau Island, 2984-1414.

42 W H E R E HONG KONG I F e b r u a r y 2 014

!7 Riding the cable car 5.7 kilometers over Lantau’s lush valleys to visit the Ngong Ping cultural-themed village and the Big Buddha. !8 Snaking through the highrises on the Mid-Levels Escalator—the longest in the world. Cochrane, Shelley, and Peel Streets, Central. !9 Meeting Pui Pui, our famous crocodile, at the eco-friendly Hong Kong Wetland Park. Tin Shui Wai, New Territories, 2708-8885. @0 Taking the Peak Tram to visit Hong Kong celebrities at Madame Tussauds. Shop P10, The Peak Tower, 128 Peak Rd., 2849-6966. @1 Exploring Lamma Island, then feasting on deep-fried squid at Rainbow Seafood. 16-24 First St., Sok Kwu Wan, Lamma Island, 2982-8100. @2 Marveling at the beautiful Chi Lin Nunnery, the world’s largest building to be constructed without nails. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill.

@3 Taking the oldest ride in Hong Kong—a tram from Kennedy Town to Causeway Bay. @4 Enjoying free kung fu demonstrations and cultural performances at Kowloon Park every Sunday from 2:30pm to 4:30pm. Weather permitting. @5 Slurping oysters for brunch at Café Deco. 1-2/F, The Peak Galleria, 118 Peak Rd., The Peak, 2849-5111. @6 Taking a walk down the Historic Trail at the Museum of Coastal Defence, 2569-1500. @7 Drinking at panoramic bar Aqua Spirit. 30/F, One Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288. @8 Checking out the KowloonCanton Railway clock tower. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. @9 Snacking on egg tarts at Tai Cheong Bakery. 32 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2554-3475. #0 Bird-watching at the Mai Po Marshes, Mai Po, 2526-4473.

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