WHERE Hong Kong - March 2014 by WHERE Hong Kong

where Hong Kong 3.2014 ®

the guide

06 Hot Dates Hong Kong’s hottest concerts, shows and events

14 art + culture Top galleries and our pick of what’s happening

20 dining Your A-Z of the best eats in town

26 Drinks Our favorite places to sip a cocktail

38 Walking Tour Explore a neighborhood on foot

40 Maps Kowloon & Hong Kong Island

Also inside 28 Shops + services From mega malls to local designers 34 NAVIGATE

features

Fast facts and essential info 42 30 THINGS WE LOVE Hong Kong’s all-time top spots and best experiences

6 Bottoms Up Hong Kong’s own craft beer festival

8 Try this at the Sevens The ultimate guide to the Hong Kong Sevens

on the cover m a rch 2014

the complete guide to go

34 Go Boho in Poho

Explore Po Hing Fong, a trendy enclave in Sheung Wan

RUGBY FeveR Guide to the ultimate G SevenS the honG Kon

Craft Beer festival explore trendy neighBorhoods night market tours

Hong Kong

The Hong Kong Sevens is one of the city’s biggest sporting events, held at Hong Kong Stadium in March each year. Turn to p.10 to find out more. Photos courtesy of Hong Kong Rugby Football Union.

wheretraveler.com The website from the editors of Where Magazine. Get all the latest city buzz from our experts—info only the locals know.

m a r c h 2 0 14 I WHERE hong k o n g 3

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On the web: www.wherehongkong.com HK Magazine Media group acMG | ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION General MANAGER & Publisher Greg Crandall director of Sales Miko Chow Strategy Sales Director Jan Cheng Associate Director Joe Ng Senior Advertising Manager Oliver Cheung Advertising Manager Keiko Ko, Hills Lau, Arthur Au Yeung Advertising Executives Winnie Cheng Advertising Coordinator Sharon Cheung Marketing MANAGER James Gannaban Marketing & Circulation Executive Charmaine Mirandilla IT SYSTEMS Manager Derek Wong

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hot dates Hong Kong By Evelyn Lok

March 1 Porter in the House Gregory Porter has been lauded as the next Nat King Cole, and compared to greats such as Joe Williams and Marvin Gaye. And he's just won a Grammy for Best Jazz Vocal Album. He's not all just lovey dovey songs though—he was a member of the original Broadway cast of "It Ain't Nothin' But The Blues," he's got bags of soul, and he's never seen performing without his signature flat cap. Don't miss his powerful baritone at the Hong Kong Arts Festival. 8pm, Concert Hall, Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. $50-400 from www.urbtix.hk.

March 16

March 7-9

Dance Off

Down and Derby The Hong Kong Derby is possibly the most prestigious race of the year, with its beginnings stretching back to 1873. Only 4-year-old horses are allowed to race at the Derby for a chance to gain international fame and glory. So try your luck at the Sha Tin Racecourse, a day before St. Patrick’s Day— who knows? 11am-6pm, Sha Tin Racecourse, Shatin. www.hkjc.com. 6 W H E R E HONG KONG I m a r c h 2 0 14

In “Glamour of Chinese Ethnic Dance,” performed by the Hong Kong Dance Company, you'll see a rare compilation of traditional dances of different Chinese ethnic groups— from Tibetan dance to those of the Yi, Uyghur, Wa and Dai peoples. Each dance tells a particular story: for instance, "Spring Shower" is inspired by a Yi dance from Yunnan province that mimics rain. Catch this show to get a glimpse into the vibrant culture, music and costumes of China's ethnic minorities: how else will you ever get to see them? Mar 7-8, 7:45pm; 8-9, 3pm, Kwai Tsing Theatre, 12 Hing Ning Rd., Kwai Fong. $120-260 from www.urbtix.hk.

hot dates March 23

March 14-17

Boys to Band

Mixed Bag

Handsome classical crossover quartet Il Divo has sold more than 26 million albums worldwide. They're no strangers to Hong Kong audiences, and they're back in town for one night only, this time with Broadway hits from "The Phantom of the Opera," "Les Miserables" and "West Side Story," as well as a selection of classic love songs. Mar 23, 8pm, Hall 5BC, HKCEC, 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai. $490-1,590 from www.hkticketing.com.

The Shanghai/Hong Kong/Taiwan collaboration performing “108 Heroes III” was a sold-out hit at the 2011 Arts Festival, and returns again this year—this riotous performance combines rock ‘n’ roll melodies, hip hop rhythms, hipster outfits, MMA fighting, acrobatics, and a dash of Beijing opera to tell the tale of Robin Hoodlike Chinese folk heroes: the 108 Heroes of the Water Margin. Mar 14-17, 8pm, Lyric Theatre, Academy for Performing Arts, 1 Gloucester Rd., Wan Chai, $70-400 from www.urbtix.hk

Through March 23

March 13-15

March 21-23

Blast from the Past

Bottoms Up

A Fair Deal

The Hong Kong Film Archive presents a whole host of film screenings that offer a closer look at pre-war Hong Kong—with some shorts dating back as far as the 1890s. You’ll also be able to catch rare Cantonese movies from the 30s, as well as the work of film artist Hou Yao and founder of Grandview Film Company Joseph Sunn Jue. The film festival goes through March; visit website for screening times and locations. tiny.cc/hk-oldfilms.

Hong Kong’s very own craft beer festival is back! “Beertopia” first started out two years ago, and arguably kickstarted the city's craft beer movement. This year, the event expands from two to three days at the spacious West Kowloon promenade, and features more than 400 different types of brews. Snap up your tickets before they're all sold out.

Thanks to a strong response to their first event, The Affordable Art Fair returns to Hong Kong again this year. The fair began in London in 1999, with the goal of introducing the joys of owning contemporary art to a greater audience. The fair aims to prove that purchasing fine art is not a pasttime reserved for the elite. All the works for sale cost between HK$1,000 and HK$100,000, with three-quarters of the works below HK$75,000.

Mar 13-15. West Kowloon Cultural District, West Kowloon, $280-930 from shop.beertopiahk.com.

Mar 21-23, Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai. MA r c h 2 0 14 I WHERE H ONG KONG 7

Y Y

Your

Complete Guide to the Sevens The Rugby Sevens is Hong Kong’s biggest party. Here’s all you need to know.

All rugby photos provided by the Hong Kong Rugby Football Union

ne of the hottest tickets on Hong Kong’s social calendar is the Hong Kong Sevens, an international three-day rugby tournament that falls on a weekend in March each year. This time round, the competition runs from March 28-30. During the Sevens weekend, Hong Kong Stadium is taken over by die-hard rugby fans and die-hard revelers alike for three days of partying, dancing and world-class rugby. First-timer at the Sevens? We’ve got you covered with our rundown of where to go, what to do… and what to wear over this three-day party.

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1. Brush up on your rugby knowledge Here’s our quick ‘n’ dirty guide to the sporting side of the weekend: During the Hong Kong Sevens, teams from around the world compete over three days for rugby glory. The tournament was first held in 1976, becoming increasingly popular over the years—so much so that the Hong Kong Stadium was custom-built for the event in 1994. Today it’s one of the most popular sporting events in the world, with 40,000 visitors per day from all over the planet descending on the city for the Sevens weekend. The top prize of the weekend is known as the Cup. In addition to a trophy, the winners are also given US$100,000 in prize money. Finalists get US$25,000, and semi-finalists are granted US$12,500 each. For teams that don’t make it to the Cup final, there’s also a Bowl and a Plate trophy to vie for. There are 28 teams from around the world fighting for first at this year’s tournament. Find the full match schedule at www.hksevens.com.

2. Pick your costume Watching rugby at the Sevens is one thing—dressing up is something else entirely. Serious Sevens fans coordinate with friends to come up with their outfits: last year saw Scrabble pieces, sushi and lots of men in dresses. Get your costume on Pottinger Street in Central, which really is a treasure island for party goers. There are wigs in all sorts of funky colors, glasses, feather boas and glittering hats. You can also lay your hands on a huge range of masks: wolf, fox, rabbit, “Avatar,” masquerade and clown headgear as well as full costumes. Shop owners are friendly and most prices are negotiable, especially if you’re buying for a group of people.

3. Get rowdy at the South Stand This is where all the fun is. Located at the far end of the stadium, it’s where the rowdy, raucous, beer-swilling, funloving Sevens party animals congregate in vast numbers. Mexican waves are initiated, the crowds are rife with beer bongs and everyone is your best friend. The costumes are amazing, with photographers firmly positioned to catch the mayhem in all its glory.

Party Pitch Keep those drinks going at the ultimate Hong Kong Sevens after-party. One of the classier afterparties following the Hong Kong Sevens, the Louis Roederer Champagne Tent will be up throughout the action-packed weekend. Just a stone’s throw from the stadium (50 yards, to be exact), the Champagne Tent will be serving up glasses of bubbly to partygoers and revelers all night long. What’s more, there will be live music, rockin’ DJs and performances by Black Widow, the resident band.

section outside the tent, just in case it gets too stuffy inside.

But the party doesn’t stop there—a full-service cocktail bar is on hand to replenish empty glasses and quench thirsty throats. The organizers are also including an outdoor

The party starts at 6:30pm on the dot on Friday, March 28, into the wee hours, then repeats itself throughout the weekend. On Sunday, as soon as the final whistle blows, the Tent is ready to roll. Mar 28-30. Indian Recreation Club, 63 Caroline Hill Rd., Causeway Bay, 2576-6583. $450 at the door.

m a r c h 2 0 1 4 I WHERE H ONG KONG 9

4. Chill at the Sevens Village If the stadium’s getting a bit intense, head down to the Sevens Village just next door. Located on the Indian Recreation Club lawn, there’s full food and beverage service, a huge screen where you can watch the matches and bags of atmosphere as you listen to the roars coming from the stadium. The best bit? Entry is free!

Revelers at the Sevens Village

Sevens Village

5. Head to Lan Kwai Fong or Wan Chai for the after-party Lan Kwai Fong in Central is still the biggest post-Sevens destination in town. What better way to cap off a classy afternoon of rugby than by standing on top of D’Aguilar Street and singing “Summer of ‘69” at full volume? For those who want to party closer to the stadium, there are also plenty of bars in Wan Chai to choose from.

Lan Kwai Fong

Don’t Stop Party hard and root for your team at one of these popular venues. The Globe Boasting one of the best selections of international beers in the city and a delish gastro-pub menu to boot, the crowds at The Globe will rival those in Wan Chai and Causeway Bay. They’ll be broadcasting the matches live all weekend.

Bulldog’s It’s business as usual at Bulldog’s this year, which means affordable drinks in a comfy, lively atmosphere. The bar will broadcast the matches live all weekend at all its branches, so if you didn’t score tickets to the Happy Valley showdown, this is the place to be.

45-53 Graham St., Central, 2543-1941.

Shop G5-UG15, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2311-6993.

10 W H E R E HONG KONG I M a r c h 2 0 1 4

Stormies This Lan Kwai Fong staple will be hosting rugby-related parties all weekend. Expect rowdy crowds and lots of curbside partying. G-1/F, 48 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2845-8833.

Meet the Hong Kong Team

Salom Yiu Kam-shing Wing

Rowan Varty Wing/Full Back What do you think of the teams you have been pooled with (Italy, Tunisia, American Samoa)? I think the interesting thing is they’re a couple of tough teams, but it doesn’t really matter. Day one it’s all about getting to the pool stage and day two it’s winning the competition. It’s a good draw. Any great memories of streakers or pitch invaders at the Sevens? There was one kid who climbed the posts and sat on the cross-bar, during the final, or just before the final, a couple of years ago. His picture got in the papers the next day, and I heard his mom got it framed.

Do you have any special rituals that you do before a match or before training? I don’t, but three of the guys on the team do the Hakka before every game. They actually do it in the changing room. If you didn’t play rugby, what would you do? I work part time at Tanner De Witt Solicitors, so I guess I’d be working full time, doing what I should probably be doing!

Cado Lee

Jamie Hood

Scrum Half

Captain, Fly Half/Full Back/Scrum Half How are you preparing for the tournament?

If you could dress up for the Sevens, what would you be?

We’re doing a lot of running, a lot of weights, and a lot of teamwork at the moment. Pretty much every day during the week we have training. We’ve got a couple of tournaments leading up to Hong Kong—the Magaret River Sevens in Perth and the Zimbabwe Sevens—which will surely prepare us for it. We’ll probably also meet a couple of other teams who are in our draw in those tournaments as well.

I’d probably go in a group with other people. And that’s key to a good costume: it’s that you’re with somebody else. It doesn’t matter too much what you are.

Is it hard holding down a regular job once the season starts? Most of us are full time now: a couple of us work part time as teachers or lawyers. I think when it comes to this time of the year, this is the priority, and we have to concentrate on what we want to do in Hong Kong… but yeah, it’s tough.

“I went to my first Hong Kong Rugby Sevens event as a spectator in 2000, back when they had only five Chinese players on the whole team. I was fascinated by the freshness and excitement of the sport, so I started learning about it.”

“[In 2012, playing Japan] We kept fighting and managed to take it into extra time. Although we lost the match, I was really moved by the spirit of the whole team and the amazing support from the crowd.”

If you didn’t play rugby, what would you do? Before I became professional I was a science and PE teacher at South Island School, so I’d probably be doing something similar along those lines. I guess something sporty!

m a r c h 2 0 1 4 I WHERE H ONG KONG 11

Tel: 2730 1251

where

the guide

Room for More 22 Degrees North is a new art and cultural space based in a pre-war tong lau (tenement building) in Sham Shui Po. It stocks niche design brands and hosts regular exhibitions from local artists. Rex Yam, one of the three co-founders, says that after weighing options such as renting shops in malls or other districts, ultimately renting and renovating this historic tong lau was the only way for the trio to establish their dream space. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Renovating the tong lau gives us much more space and flexibility, and we can turn this old storage space into a hangout spot.â&#x20AC;? 88 Nam Cheong St., Sham Shui Po, 2568-1147.

Art+culture | The Guide

Sneak Peeks Two not-to-be-missed exhibitions this month. By Evelyn Lok

My Fair Ladies

Au Hoi-lam

Hong Kong artists Au Hoi-lam and Sara Tse hold a second joint exhibition called “Time Traveler” at the Espace Art Louis Vuitton, continuing their contemplation of the feminine mystique. They refuse to fall back on feminine stereotypes but instead make art through metaphors that represent the feminine: the contrasts of soft and solid, or warm and cold textures. Through Apr 30, Espace Louis Vuitton, Louis Vuitton Mansion, 5 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui.

Felice Beato in "Foreign Presence"

Claire Fontaine's "Foreign Presence"

Antiques ALTFIELD GALLERY — Altfield Gallery deals in Southeast Asian sculpture and decorative arts, antique maps and topographical prints relating to Asia, as well as Chinese and Tibetan carpets. Altfield also produces a range of reproduction furniture and accessories in the Chinoiserie style. Shipping available. Shop 248-9, 2/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 25376370, www.altfield.com.hk. ARCH ANGEL ANTIQUES — The three-story shop houses large collections of Qing dynasty porcelain and restored 16th- to 18th-century Chinese furniture. Rare and authentic stone and bronze sculptures and buddhas, and terracotta sculptures from China and South-Eastern Asia are found in the viewing galleries, plus there are over 200 paintings in the extensive ancestral scroll collection. G/F, 53-55 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-6848.

Foreigner Policy Restaurant-slash-art-gallery Duddell’s has invited Hong Kong-based curator Inti Guerrero to assemble work specifically about “outsiders” in Hong Kong, in an exhibition called “Foreign Presence.” As Claire Fontaine’s neon text piece simultaneously sums it up in Chinese: “There are foreigners everywhere,” and “Everywhere, everyone is a foreigner.” The exhibit also features vintage archival photography of Victoria Harbour, work by local artist Leung Chi-wo and 60s Harper’s Bazaar fashion editorials shot in Hong Kong. Through Apr 30, Duddell’s, 3-4/F, Shanghai Tang Mansion, Duddell St., Central, 2525-9191.

DRAGON CULTURE — Specializes in dinosaur egg fossils, Han Dynasty terracotta, Tang sculptures and Ming porcelain figures. 231 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2545-8098, www.dragonculture.com.hk. JOYCE GALLERY — Specializing in ancient sculptures and archaic bronzes from across China, Joyce displays a collection of antiquities dating to the Shang dynasty, including ancient bronzes, stone carvings, gold and silver ware, jade, pottery and Buddhist works. It guarantees its descriptions of the period and history of its items and offers a full refund if the purchased item does not match the description. Shop 1, 123 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2545-1869, www.joycegallery.com.

Lam & Co Antiquities

LAM & CO ANTIQUITIES — An impressive collection of fine Chinese antiquities which ranges from the Neolithic period to the Qing dynasty and includes bronze, gold and silver ware, pottery and porcelain. This shop is well-known by collectors, galleries and auction dealers worldwide and offers repair, restoration, authentication and shipping services. 2/F, 151 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2543-8877, www.lamantiquities.com.

You’ll find some of the best art and antique galleries in town along Hong Kong Island’s Hollywood Road.

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Art+culture | The Guide OI LING ANTIQUES — Oi Ling's Hollywood Road showroom houses a large collection of furniture from the 17th and 18th centuries, as well as authenticated pottery items dating as far back as the Neolithic era. 58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2815-9422, www.oilingantiques.com. WATTIS FINE ART — Specializes in antique maps of Asia, and historical photographs and prints of China, Hong Kong, and Southeast Asia. 2/F, 20 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2524-5302, www.wattis.com.hk.

Galleries 10 CHANCERY LANE GALLERY — Focusing on established and emerging international artists, 10 Chancery Lane consists of two large gallery spaces. It holds exhibitions of sculptures, paintings, photographs, installations and videos, as well as performances by renowned artists. G/F, 10 Chancery Lane, SoHo, 2810-0065, www.10chancerylanegallery.com. ALISAN FINE ARTS — This well-established gallery has organized more than 100 exhibitions for Chinese artists from around the world. Run by respected art-world figure Alice King, who has worked with the Guggenheim Museum, it also mounts exhibitions for overseas venues. Room 2305, Hing Wai Centre, 7 Tin Wan Praya Rd., Aberdeen, 2526-1091, www.alisan.com.hk. ARCH ANGEL ART GALLERY — Arch angel Art Gallery features a collection of contemporary Vietnamese and Southeast Asian paintings acquired directly from the artists. Some of the paintings are from founder Koos Groot's private collection. 30 Peel St., Central, 2851-6882. AP Contemporary— AP Contemporary is dedicated to supporting up-and-coming contemporary artists, especially those from developing countries like Brazil, Russia, India and China. Having said that, European and American talents are also represented at this space. 28 Tai Ping Shan St., Sheung Wan, 3105-2148, www.apcontemporary.com. ASIA FINE ART — Dedicated to promoting young Asian artists at affordable prices, this gallery has regular exhibitions of work from China, Vietnam and Indonesia and Myanmar for sale on site and online. 14 Sik On St., Wan Chai (entrance at 99 Queen’s Rd. East), 2522-0405, www.asia-fineart.com.

Asia Society Hong Kong

ASIA SOCIETY HONG KONG — Asia Society Hong Kong's big, brand-spankin’-new 16 W H E R E HONG KONG I m a r c h 2 0 1 4

headquarters are in a beautifully refurbished former storehouse for British artillery and ammunition. Playing host to a myriad of lectures, exhibitions, performances, film screenings, tours, seminars and conferences—97 percent of which are open to the public—the Asia Society is a literal treasure trove. Closed Mon. G/F, 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2103-9511, www.asiasociety.org/hong-kong. BEN BROWN FINE ARTS — After 10 years at Sotheby’s and two more at a private gallery, Ben Brown and his wife sought to create a space that housed pieces reflective of their tastes—primarily on European modern and contemporary artworks. 301 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2522-9600, www.benbrownfinearts.com. CONTEMPORARY BY ANGELA LI — Perhaps best known for introducing Chinese artists Chen Jiagang and Liao Yibai to the art world, CBAL boasts a lovely space and a carefully curated exhibition program. G/F, 248 Hollywood Rd., Central, 3571-8200, www.cbal.com.hk.

De Sarthe Gallery

DE SARTHE GALLERY — Specializing in the sale of 19th and 20th century masters, previous exhibitions have shown the works of art world greats such as Miro, Picasso and Chu Teh-chun, just to name a few. First opening in Paris in 1977 and branching out across the U.S. and Europe, de Sarthe finally opened its first Asian outpost in Hong Kong in 2011. 8/F, Club Lusitano, 16 Ice House St., Central, 2167-8896, desarthe.com. ESPACE LOUIS VUITTON — LV has been invading gallery spaces for the past half decade, stirring unrest in the hearts of hard-line art critics but appreciation in the eyes of those beholders who’re able to look past reservations about brand -name commercialism. Espace Louis Vuitton, Louis Vuitton Mansion, 5 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 8100-1182. GAGOSIAN GALLERY — With 14 galleries and counting, the famed Gagosian has chosen Hong Kong as its gateway to Asia. They opened their doors in January 2011 with a bang, featuring an all-new exhibition by Damien Hirst—Gagosian only exhibits the crème-de-la-crème of the art world. Closed Mon. 7/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2151-0555, www.gagosian.com.

Galerie Du Monde

GALERIE DU MONDE — Galerie du Monde hosts exhibitions by Chinese artists including Li Shuang, Le Longyao, Yu Xiaohui, Hon Chifun and Pan Xun. Its conservation studio provides a complete restoration service for works of art on paper and canvas. Shop 108, 1/F, Ruttonjee Center, 11 Duddell St., Central, 2525-0529, www.galeriedumonde.com. Lehmann Maupin Gallery — With the original branch in New York and with its reputation of supporting contemporary art and culture, the Lehmann Maupin Gallery opened its doors here on March 14. Architect Rem Koolhas designed the gallery, making sure to keep the historic columns in the Pedder Building intact. Room 407, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central.2530-0025, www.lehmanmaupin.com.

Opera Gallery

OPERA GALLERY — Opera Gallery features works by world-famous international artists, including Picasso, Chagall, Salvador Dali, Gerard Rancinan and Lita Cabellut, among others. W Place, 52 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-1208, www.operagallery.com. PICTURE THIS — The city’s largest affordable art gallery specializes in posters, antique maps, prints and early photographs of Hong Kong and China. It also carries antiquarian and secondhand books about Asia, first editions of modern literature, prints and photographs for children’s rooms, and sporting prints. Suite 1308, 13/F, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2525-2820, www.picturethiscollection.com.

Plum Blossoms Gallery

PLUM BLOSSOMS GALLERY — Recognized for its exhibitions of contemporary Asian art as well as an outstanding collection of museum-quality ancient textiles, Plum Blossoms is an established platform for the promotion of both ancient and modern arts. 14/F, Cheung Tak Building, 30 Heung Yip Rd., Wong Chuk Hang, 2521-2189, www.plumblossoms.com.

Hong Kong

apr il 2013

the complet e guide to

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Art+culture

Red Square Gallery — Red Square Gallery is a window into Contemporary Russian Art. Expanding into four branches, the gallery is dedicated to bringing creative and dynamic artwork to Hong Kong. Shop 2, G/F, 1A Wong Nai Chung Rd., Happy Valley. 2838-0040, www.redsquare-gallery.com. Main branch in Stanley.

White Cube

WHITE CUBE — One of the world’s top contemporary galleries opened its first non-UK outpost in Hong Kong in March of 2012. The gallery represents many members of the Young British Artists (YBA) movement, who are known for their shock factor, confrontational nature and use of disposable materials—for instance, Damien Hirst’s famous dead shark suspended in formaldehyde. Closed Sun-Mon. G-1/F, 50 Connaught Rd. Central, 2592-2000, www.whitecube.com. ZEE STONE GALLERY — Zee Stone, established in 1991, exhibits a wide range of contemporary artists from mainland China, using both ink and color on paper and oil on canvas. The gallery’s exhibitions reflect the rich diversity of contemporary Chinese art, including abstract landscapes, realistic portraits, paintings on rice paper by traditionally trained Chinese masters and new work by a younger generation in acrylic and mixed media. G/F, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2810-5895, www.zeestone.com.

Museums FLAGSTAFF HOUSE MUSEUM OF TEAWARE — Located in Flagstaff House, the oldest surviving colonial building in the territory, and once the home of the commander-inchief of British forces in Hong Kong, the museum houses a prized Asian teaware collection. It’s also home to Lock Cha Tea House, which serves myriad varieties of tea and delicate vegetarian dim sum in a cute Chinese-style setting. Closed Tue. 10 Cotton Tree Drive, Hong Kong Park, Central, 2869-0690, www.hk.art.museum. HONG KONG FILM ARCHIVE — A repository of all things related to Hong Kong films, the Archive contains lots of movies, conservation labs, a resource center, exhibition hall and a cinema. Closed Tuesdays. 1/F, 50 Lei King Rd., Sai Wan Ho, 2739-2139. HONG KONG HERITAGE MUSEUM — This modern museum is devoted to preserving the city’s historical, art and cultural heritage. It features permanent exhibitions on the New Territories, 18 W H E R E HONG KONG I m a r c h 2 0 1 4

Art+culture

Cantonese opera and a Children’s Discovery Gallery. Closed Tues. 1 Man Lam Rd., Sha Tin, 2180-8188, www.heritagemuseum.gov.hk

What happened at the Pinewood Battery? *

Hong Kong Maritime Museum

HONG KONG MARITIME MUSEUM — This museum holds semi-permanent and special exhibitions tracing Hong Kong's growth into a major world port, and the contributions made by China and the West to the development of ships, maritime exploration, trade and naval warfare. Central Ferry Pier No. 8, 3713-2500, www.hkmaritimemuseum.org. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF ART — One of the city’s largest museums houses fine examples of ancient Chinese art from the Han to the Qing dynasties. The exhibition galleries regularly showcase contemporary and international works. 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-0116, www.hk.art.museum. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF HISTORY — This fascinating museum explores 6,000 years of Hong Kong history, from the Neolithic to the post-war period, with recreations of prehistoric scenes and the early colonial era. Closed Tue. 100 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-9042, hk.history.museum.

Hong Kong Museum Of Medical Sciences

HONG KONG MUSEUM OF MEDICAL SCIENCES — Located in an elegant brick building, this museum charts the development of medicine in the city. It was the first to focus on both Western and traditional Chinese approaches to healthcare. Closed Mon. 2 Caine Lane, MidLevels, 2549-5123, www.hkmms.org.hk. LAW UK FOLK MUSEUM — Law Uk, which means “Law’s House” after its original owner, is an 18th-century, Qing-dynasty Hakka village house, complete with furnishings and artifacts. Free admission. Closed Thu. 14 Kut Shing St., Chai Wan, 2896-7006, www.hk.history.museum. LEI CHENG UK HAN TOMB MUSEUM — Housing a 2,000-year-old tomb with four chambers, this is one of the city’s most fascinating monuments. Closed Thu. 41 Tonkin St., Sham Shui Po, 2386-2863, hk.history.museum.

*Learn about this and other fascinating facts in

Historical Hong Kong Hikes A guide to 15 remarkable treks, detailing the rich history of the SAR’s peaks, valleys and urban neighborhoods

In all major bookstores now! Or order yours at: www.historicalhkhikes.com with free delivery.

m a r c h 2 0 1 4 I WHERE H ONG KONG 19

dining | The Guide

Let’s Go Porridging Congee, a traditional Cantonese rice soup, is a warm and comforting classic. By Yannie Chan

ade by boiling rice kernels in large amounts of water until the stock achieves a thick, gooey consistency, congee is a staple breakfast and snack item in Hong Kong’s homes and greasy spoons. Here’s where you can grab a bowl.

Sam Kee Congee A Wan Chai staple, Sam Kee serves incredibly soft and smooth congee. The secret? Chicken and pork stock, Japanese pearl rice, and a touch of dried tofu skin. Owner Mr. Yu recommends their most popular sampan congee (teng zai juk), which includes squid, pork rind, beef and peanuts. Yu is a nostalgic owner: everything in the shop has been the same since his father opened the restaurant more than 40 years ago. 7am-11pm. 168 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2573-3857.

Sam Kee

Nathan Congee and Noodle

Fuk Kee

Nathan Congee and Noodle

Fuk Kee Congee

Sang Kee has been serving congee since the 70s. Most Cantonese congee is quite strongly flavored, but Sang Kee goes against the tide: Owner Mr Au explains that their congee deliberately has a more neutral taste, so that it can better reflect the flavor of its components. That’s why their freshly boiled congee comes with a separate bowl of soy sauce and slices of ginger and spring onions, so that you can flavor it yourself.

Stepping into this 53-year-old Jordan restaurant is like taking a time machine to the 60s, with its retro decor and vintage lamps. The shop serves a more expensive and luxurious menu, including an abalone congee (bao yu juk) at $150. A more affordable alternative would be the $32 congee with pork kidney, pork liver, pork intestines and meatballs (gup dai juk). Nathan Congee also has cushioned sofa booths—perfect if you’re hungover and in need of a quiet, soft place to consume carbs. Don’t miss the signature rice dumplings (guo jing zhong).

This celebrity Mong Kok restaurant is messy and crowded, but it also cooks up excellent congee of the thicker and more strongly flavored variety, making it the perfect base for ingredients such as thousand-year-old egg and lean pork. Keep in mind that the menu changes throughout the day: dishes with rice noodle rolls and certain kinds of congee are only available from 7-10:30am; after lunch, there will be fried noodles and a special roast goose congee.

6:30am-9pm. 7-9 Burd St., Sheung Wan, 2541-1099.

7:30am-11:30pm. 11 Sai Kung St., Jordan, 2771-4285.

Sang Kee

Congee Accessories Is a bowl of congee ever enough? These classic snacks will top you up. 1 Fried dough sticks (yau zha gwai) In Cantonese, “gwai” sounds like the name of Song Dynasty official Qin Hui, who framed and executed national hero Yue Fei. According to folklore, people then stuck two pieces of dough together to represent Qin and his wife, deep frying them as punishment. Dip

20 W H E R E HONG KONG I m a r c h 2 0 1 4

them in congee, or soak them in sugar water so they’re extra juicy. 2 Rice noodle rolls with fried dough sticks (zha leung) The perfect contrast of textures: a soft rice noodle roll encasing crispy yau zha gwei. Eat with hoisin sauce, sesame paste and chili sauce. 3 Turnip cakes (lor bak gou) Turnip cakes are made of shredded radish with bits of dried shrimp and sausage. They’re steamed and then pan-fried for crispiness. This pairing works well because the easily digestible congee

7:30am-11:30pm. 104-106 Fa Yuen St., Mong Kok, 2385-1230.

balances the heavy cake. For a vegetarian version, head over to Sam Kee in Wan Chai. 4 Fried noodles (chao meen) The fried noodles of congee shops are extremely simple: egg noodles or vermicelli pan-fried with soy sauce, onions and lean pork. Add a lot of chili sauce. 5 Deep-fried glutinous rice cakes (jeen deui) A crispy ball of glutinous rice, hollow in the middle, topped with a layer of sesame. Sticky and sweet, these cakes were served to royals during the Tang Dynasty.

dining

New & Noted Two new restaurants that are jazzing up the scene. By Adele Wong

Gogyo

Prune Organic Deli

Snazzy Strands

Green Day

Tokyo and Kyoto ramen specialist Gogyo soft-opened in December, but this time with a high-end spin. The ramen broths at this fancy noodle bar are marked by a charred, bittersweet flavor that’s a result of roasting the various soup bases at a high heat, with copious amounts of oil. Expect to cough up from $128 to $158 per bowl—but you’ll get a free welcome drink to make up for the harsh prices.

The folks behind Grassroots Pantry in Sai Ying Pun are providing the trendy neighborhood with yet another healthy venture. Prune Organic Deli & Workshop is a breakfast/lunch/snacks space that stocks local brands such as Bread Elements and Happy Cow, and serves a range of organic and sustainable dishes like gluten-free pancakes and meat-free sandwiches.

Shop 3020, 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2385-1366.

14 Fuk Sau Lane, Sai Ying Pun, 2873-3353.

Admiralty

Causeway Bay

Ammo — Western. $$$ Tapas and pastas can be had at this posh Asia Society eatery housed in a former British army magazine compound. 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2537-9888.

Hooray — Italian. $$ Al fresco drinks and dining in a casual setting complete with a magnificent harbor view. Shop P502, 5/F, World Trade Center, 280 Gloucester Rd., Causeway Bay, 2895 0885.

DAN RYAN’S — American. $$$ Dan Ryan’s prides itself on Chicago-style chow. Shop 112, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2845-4600. METROPOL — Dim sum. $ Beef balls, steamed shrimp dumplings, pork-and-shrimp dumplings, stuffed rice rolls and other Hong Kong specialties are wheeled around in traditional trolleys for an authentic dim sum experience. 4/F, United Centre, 95 Queensway, Admiralty, 2865-1988. NICHOLINI’S — Italian. $$$$ This restaurant gets kudos from honest-to-goodness Italians, and that’s good enough for us. 8/F, Conrad International Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2521-3838. PETRUS — French. $$$$ This place can best be equated with a fine wine: expensive but so pleasing to the palate that it’s worth the money. The décor is a bit ostentatious, but the opulence suits the magnificent view. 56/F, Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2820-8590.

Prune Organic Deli

IPPUDO — Ramen. $ Japan’s famous chain serves ramen in bowls so enormous they should be called cauldrons, with a meaty, savory broth, tender pork pieces, springy noodles and tangy spring onions topped with fungus and bean sprouts. 2/F, 8 Russell St., 2892-2387. MANGO TREE — Thai. $$-$$$ Somehow, in the middle of bustling Causeway Bay, in a high-rise chock-full of other restaurants and bars, Mango Tree manages to be an oasis of dim lighting, carefully placed flowers and good Thai food. 5/F, Cubus, 1 Hoi Ping Rd., Causeway Bay, 2577-0828. Sorabol — Korean. $$ The smell wafting from the open barbecues in the middle of each table will get your appetite going— which is a good thing, since you’ll want to try everything. 18/F, Lee Theatre Plaza, 99 Percival St., 2881-6823.

Tott’s — Modern Asian/Western. $$$-$$$$ Sophisticated décor, harbor-view seats, and perfectly crafted entrees are the hallmark here. The attentive service also deserves special mention. 34/F, The Excelsior, 281 Gloucester Rd., 2837-6786.

Central & Lan Kwai Fong AMBER — Modern French. $$$$ Modern, inventive French cuisine meets attentiongrabbing decor. 7/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2132-0066. Brickhouse — Mexican. $$. Imagine street-side Mexican combined with hipster-chic décor and upbeat music. Phone reservations not allowed and queues form quickly at peak hours so early arrival recommended. G/F, 20A D’Aguilar St. Boqueria — Spanish. $$$ Feast on tasty tapas and bomba rice paellas at this chain from New York. 7/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2321-8681. CAPRICE — French. $$$$ Three Michelin Stars. Splurge on haute cuisine at this French restaurant staffed by chefs formerly of Le Cinq in Paris. The gorgeous interior includes floorto-ceiling windows. 6/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 3196-8860. m a r c h 2 0 1 4 I WHERE H ONG KONG 21

dining | The Guide The Peak THE PEAK LOOKOUT — International. $$$ Offering an alfresco terrace with a view, this restaurant features an open, bright and airy environment—more like a mountain lodge than a country club—and excellent fare. 121 Peak Rd., 2849-1000.

Lung King Heen Duddell’s

Duddell’s — Cantonese. $$$. Serves Chinese fusion by former T’ang Court Chef Siu Hin-chi. The art pieces on display are another highlight. Levels 3 & 4, Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell St., 2525-9191.

LUNG KING HEEN — Cantonese. $$$-$$$$ Three Michelin Stars. The name means “view of the dragon” and the floor-to-ceiling windows make the case. Stylish décor, flawless service and traditional as well as innovative dishes only add to the appeal. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 3196-8880.

Fatty Crab — Southeast Asian. $$$. A branch of the popular Fatty Crab Restaurant in New York. Expect a delectable mix of South-East Asian flavors. 11-13 Old Bailey St., 2521-2033. INAGIKU — Japanese. $$$ The Hong Kong branch of one of Japan’s oldest and bestknown restaurants, it lives up to the buzz: authentic, delicious and quiveringly fresh. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 2805-0600. ISLAND TANG — Cantonese. $$$$ Shanghai Tang founder David Tang’s art-deco dining space is a welcome bright spot amid Central’s modern office towers, with top local cuisine to match. Shop 222, 2/F, The Galleria, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2526-8798. ISOLA BAR & GRILL — Italian. $$$$ The glam factor is off the scale, with stunning harbor views and high ceilings, not to mention handmade pastas, pizzas, risottos and more. Shop 3071-75, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., 2383-8765.

Repulse Bay SPICES — Pan-Asian. $$$ Below a glassy high-rise, this restaurant is devoted to showcasing the “fabled ingredients of the exotic food of the East.” It also offers a fantastic view of the South China Sea and the sandy shores below. G/F, The Arcade, 109 Repulse Bay Rd., 2292-2821. THE VERANDAH — Continental/International. $$$ Book brunch in time to get a seat at this popular spot. On other days, the à la carte menu never disappoints. Closed Mon. 109 Repulse Bay Rd., 2292-2822.

SoHo

Mayta

Mayta — Peruvian. $$$ Indulge in colorful and multi-textured dishes like seafood ceviche at one of LKF’s most popular new restos. 3/F, Grand Progress Building, 15-16 Lan Kwai Fong, 2790-0928. pierre — French. $$$$ Masterminded by threeMichelin-star chef Pierre Gagnaire, this is a bastion of fine French dining. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4001.

JASHAN — Indian. $$ Immediately impressive, with dim lighting, vermilion walls and colonial furnishings, Jashan offers an extensive menu, delicious food and hotel-level service. 1/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., 3105-5300. POSTO PUBBLICO — American Italian. $$$ Hip Greenwich Village types come to get their fill of such dishes as veal meatballs and sandwiches of homemade mozzarella, eggplant and lashings of balsamic vinegar. 28 Elgin St., 2577-7160.

Yardbird

Sevva

L’Atelier De Joel Robuchon

L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON — French. $$$$ The Frenchman named “Chef of the Century” by Gault Millau designs authentic dishes with exquisite finesse and precision, which are then turned out by highly trained chefs in the open kitchen. Shop 315 & 401, 4/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2166-9000. LIN HEUNG Lau— Cantonese. $$ The setup has changed little in more than 50 years and it still remains a popular hangout for those craving a bit of old Hong Kong nostalgia and really, really good food. Most people come here for daytime dim sum, but dinner’s great too. 160-164 Wellington St., Central, 2544-4556. 22 W H E R E HONG KONG I m a r c h 2 0 1 4

SEVVA — Contemporary. $$$$ The brainchild of local socialite Bonnie Gokson, this 22,000-square-foot penthouse restaurant comes with a buzzing wraparound terrace. The elegant eatery serves dishes drawn from Cantonese, Shanghainese, Indian and British culinary concepts. 25/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., 2537-1388. YELLOW DOOR KITCHEN — Sichuan. $$ Hong Kong’s first private kitchen, this favorite has been serving up fiery Sichuan cuisine since the early 1990s. 6/F, Cheung Hing Commercial Building, 37 Cochrane St., 2858-6555. ZUMA — Japanese. $$$$ This is one goodlooking restaurant, split over two floors and linked by a sumptuous staircase. It’s the local branch of London’s famed eatery, offering a sophisticated twist on the traditional izakaya. 5-6/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3657-6388.

YARDBIRD — Yakitori. $$$ This is a no-frills yet achingly modern two-story yakitori joint in a trendy corner of the district. The skewers are mostly chicken-based, and taken from every part of the chicken’s body from the heart to the skin. Don’t forget to sample the house sake. 33-35 Bridges St., 2547-9273.

Tsim Sha Tsui

Angelini

ANGELINI — Italian. $$$-$$$$ With Italian native Marco Medaglia at the helm, Angelini serves up unpretentious food, with an emphasis on ingredients air-freighted from Italy three times a week. Also has a great harbor view. Mezzanine, Kowloon Shangri-La, 64 Mody Rd., 2733-8750.

dining

FELIX — Fusion. $$$$ Still one of the swankiest restaurants in town, with Philippe Starck décor, modern food and famous bathrooms. It’s glam, contemporary and kid-free. 28/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Rd., 2696-6778. FOOK LAM MOON — Cantonese. $$$$ Devotees swear this place serves the best Cantonese cuisine in the world. It’s been the place to go for southern Chinese delicacies for more than five decades. 55 Kimberley Rd., 2366-0286. HUTONG — Northern Chinese. $$$$ Dark wood furnishings and a fabulous harbor view make for a modern-day Chinese dining hall. The food is beautifully presented northern Chinese haute cuisine. 28/F, 1 Peking Rd., 3428-8342. MORTON’S OF CHICAGO — Steak. $$$$ With huge slabs of prime, aged beef accompanied by what looks like the winning entries in a hard-fought vegetable show, Morton’s is one of the best steak restaurants in Hong Kong. 4/F, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers, 20 Nathan Rd., 2732-2343.

Nobu

NOBU — Japanese. $$$$ Mind-blowingly artistic in presentation, design and execution, this famous restaurant deserves the hype. Sushi is a must, as is the amazing black cod. 2/F, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., 2313-2323. Ruth’s Chris — Steak. $$$$ American steakhouse, with USDA Prime cuts served alongisde rich sides like spinach au gratin and tempura onion rings. Shop 108-110, 1/F, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2366-6000.

Spoon

SPOON — French. $$$$ Chef Alain Ducasse’s restaurant has floor-to-ceiling windows, a fabulous harbor view and an innovative modern menu. Lobby, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., 2313-2323. T’ANG COURT — Cantonese. $$$$ This little gem serves some of the city’s finest Cantonese cuisine. 1/F, Langham Hotel, 8 Peking Rd., 2132-7898. m a r c h 2 0 1 4 I WHERE H ONG KONG 23

dining

Whisk — Modern European. $$$ Whisk is known for its contemporary European dishes and extensive wine list that is relatively more affordable than other fine diners. 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., 2368-1111. Yè SHANGHAI — Shanghainese. $$$ With upscale cuisine served in shareable portions, this is the place for Shanghainese dishes like camphor-smoked duck with pancakes. Also known for its interior full of fabulous chinoiserie. 6/F, The Marco Polo Hong Kong Hotel, 3 Canton Rd., 2376-3322.

Wan Chai

Bo Innovation

BO INNOVATION — Asian. $$$-$$$$ Experimental cuisine pairing local ingredients with delicacies imported from across the world. Shop 13, 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Rd., 2850-8371.

Catalunya

NO RULES, JUST RIGHT. ‘GO OUTBACK’ TONIGHT! Causeway Bay 2/F, JP Plaza, 22-36 Paterson St. Reservations: 2881 8012 Wanchai 1/F, De Fenwick, 8-12 Fenwick St. Reservations: 3101 0418

www.outback.com.hk

Whampoa Shop 3A, G/F, Site 4, Whampoa Garden, Hunghom Reservations: 2766 2823

Tuen Mun Tsuen Wan

Whampoa Tsim Sha Tsui Wanchai

Tsim Sha Tsui East Taikoo Causeway Bay

Tsim Sha Tsui Shop 1, Level 2, 26 Nathan Rd. Reservations: 3741 1728

24 W H E R E HONG KONG I m a r c h 2 0 1 4

Tsim Sha Tsui East Shops 23-28, Upper Ground Floor, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd. Reservations: 2311 7800 Tsuen Wan Shops 3-5, Level 2, Discovery Park Shopping Centre, 398 Castle Peak Rd. Reservations: 2940 0682 Taikoo Shops G9-G10, G/F, Kornhill Plaza, 1 Kornhill Rd. Reservations: 2560 8246 Tuen Mun Shop 2016-2017, 2/F, Phase 1, Tuen Mun Town Plaza Reservations: 2426 3918

Catalunya — Spanish. $$$$ This 7,500 square feet of restaurant and bar space offers Catalan-style dishes such as roasted suckling pig and lobster rice. G/F, Guardian House, 32 Oi Kwan Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-7900. MADAM SIXTY EIGHT — European. $$$ At this posh eclectic eatery, an open kitchen faces the diners, with chefs readying exquisitely prepared dishes scurrying around. Shop 8, 1/F, The Podium, J Senses, 60 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2527-2558. THE PAWN — British. $$$ Serving fabulous food in a faithful restoration of an 1888 landmark building, The Pawn houses a bar and a restaurant with a roof and a breezy balcony overlooking Johnston Road. The menu has modern British fare with a luxurious twist. 2/F, 62 Johnston Rd., 2866-3444. WOOLOOMOOLOO — Australian/New Zealand. $$$ This steakhouse is several places at once: a laid-back wine bar and a casual drinks terrace on the rooftop, and a fine-dining steakhouse below. 31/F-Rooftop, The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2893-6960.

Taste of the city special advertising section

Spice features the

Enjoy a COMPLIMENTARY DESSERT with this ad

“Bollywood and Belly Dance Night’’,

a regular performance by two belly dancers, held every Thursday at 8:30pm .

* for dine-in and a la carte menu only We provide fine Thai, Indian and Malay cuisine with good selection of fine wines. Come experience our flavours of coriander, cumin, chili and lemongrass. Spice up your evening with friends!

Our chefs have also come up with a special menu to swing and sway to the diners’ delight of this groovy atmosphere.

www.spice-restaurant.hk 2/F, No.1 Knutsford Terrace, Tsim Sha Tsui, Tsim Sha Tsui Kowloon. Reservations: 2191 9880 / 2191 9886 Daily Opening Hours: Lunch: Mon – Sun 12nn – 3pm Dinner: Sun – Thu 6pm – 11pm Fri – Sat 6pm – 11:30pm

m a r c h 2 0 1 4 I WHERE H ONG KONG 25

Drinks | The Guide

On Top of the World Grab a drink at one of these bars with a view. By Andrea Lo and Rani Samtani

Café Gray Deluxe

Ozone

Decorated to perfection with an aura of sophistication and understated glam, Café Gray Deluxe is located on the 49th floor of the Upper House hotel. A glamorous 46-foot-long bar takes center stage, serving delectable appetizers and colorfully named cocktails. Try the Earl Grey martini, Hong Kong Highball or Grapefruit Julep. And of course, the harbor view is breathtaking.

Located on the 118th floor of the tallest hotel in the world, Ozone takes the title of highest bar in Hong Kong. On a good day, you will be able to enjoy a spectacular view of the Hong Kong skyline. The outdoor terrace is the perfect place to take in the view and chill with friends. 118/F, The Ritz-Carlton Hotel, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2270.

Mamoz

Sugar

Aqua Spirit

Offering great city views of Hong Kong Island, Mamoz is a cool cocktail bar in Causeway Bay. Stylishly decorated with large windows and subdued lighting, it’s no surprise that Mamoz is a popular spot every night of the week.

The stunning skyline and harbor view makes the perfect setting for a relaxing weekend with friends. Located on the 32nd floor of the East Hotel, Sugar has a spacious outdoor deck. The view dominates every corner of the bar, with electrifying panoramas showcasing a different side to Hong Kong’s skyline.

The ever popular Aqua Spirit is still one of the best places in Kowloon to sit back and enjoy the view. Aqua Spirit is not only known for its striking panoramic views but also for its cocktails and delectable Italian/Japanese dishes.

27-28/F, Cubus, 1 Hoi Ping Rd., Causeway Bay, 2890-3182.

32/F, East Hotel, 29 Tai Koo Shing Rd., Tai Koo, 3968-3738.

30/F, Penthouse, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288.

Bars & Clubs

Angel’s Share

121BC — This import from Sydney, Australia offers biodynamic wines from Italian producers. 42-44 Peel St., Central, 2395-0200. ANGEL’S SHARE — This unique drinking loft is specifically designed for whisky lovers. Sourced from Scotland to Japan, there’s enough aged golden liquid here to suit even the most discerning single-malt drinkers. 2/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-8388. AQUA spirit — For cocktails with a killer vista, you can do no better than this swanky high-rise venue with an eagle’s eye view of the harbor. 30/F, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288. Azure — Stunning view, minimalist blue décor and great cocktails. 29/F, LKF Hotel, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 3518-9330.

49/F, The Upper House Hotel, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106.

Beijing Club — This impressive megaclub recently celebrated its sixth anniversary and is the biggest in town. Expect wet-look vinyl walls, gold-plated bathrooms and a youthful crowd. 2-3/F & 5/F, Wellington Place, 2-8 Wellington St., Central, 2810-9983.

Central Wine Club — This exclusive spot on Wyndham Street was designed with oenophiles in mind. Luxe, modern Baroque surrounds keep pace with the slow jazz and contemporary tunes. 3/F, Sea Bird House, 22-28 Wyndham St., Central, 2147-3448.

Blckbrd — This chilled-out spot has an official “no loud music” policy, making it the perfect place for a few low-key drinks. Located on the sixth floor, the outdoor terrace is a serene place to watch the world go by. 6/F, 8 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2545-8555.

CLUB@28 — This stylish bar has killer views, deadly cocktails and its very own outdoor oasis called The Pavilion. It’s members only, but you can join on arrival and it’s free. 28/F, Crowne Plaza Hotel, 8 Leighton Rd., Causeway Bay, 3980-3300.

BLUE BAR — The upscale Blue Bar is a big hit with the cocktail set. Yes, the martinis are worth getting dressed up for. Lobby, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8888. Café Gray Deluxe — Beside the seductively stretched bar are cozy booths for intimate lounging, and its 49th-floor perch guarantees breathtaking harbor views. Cocktail lovers should try the Hong Kong Highball. 49/F, The Upper House, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106.

DRAGON-I — Watch the bold and the beautiful work the celeb-studded room. It’s usually packed with models, especially on Wednesday nights. Podium, The Centrium, 60 Wyndham St., Central, 3110-1222. EXECUTIVE BAR — So quiet that the sound of a ninja’s sword slicing through silk would be cause for shushing. Well, not really, but it is quiet, Japanese and well-stocked with Scotch—the drink of the introspective man. 27/F, Bartlock Centre, 3 Yiu Wa St., Causeway Bay, 6710-2057.

For weekly event listings, pick up a free copy of HK Magazine (available at bars, restaurants and coffee shops).

26 W H E R E HONG KONG I m a r c h 2014

Drinks GRAPPA’S CELLAR — This bustling after-work spot features some of the city’s top jazz musicians. B/F, Jardine House, 1 Connaught Place, Central, 2521-2322.

MO BAR — The bar at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental is a sleek, upscale addition to the nightlife scene. G/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2132-0077. Ozone — Located 118 floors above the ground, this watering hole boasts a superlative title: the highest bar in Hong Kong. This nightspot is a must-see, especially due to its drop-dead gorgeous lookout onto Victoria Harbour. 118/F, The Ritz-Carlton Hotel, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2263.

Jaa Bar

Jaa Bar — Located in a small alleyway off of Peel Street, Jaa Bar combines comfort and charm for an exclusive experience. The centerpiece of the ornate enclave is a custom-made wooden bar pieced together from classical furniture pieces. 1 Pak Tsz Lane, Central, 2815-8887.

Quinary — Grab molecular cocktails in a chilledout lounge off Hollywood Road. Be impressed by local mixologist Antonio Lai’s creative drinks list. G/F, 56-58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-3223.

LE BOUDOIR — This Francophone hangout is all sultry drapes, chandeliers and velvet upholstery. The cocktails are stellar, too. B/F, 65 Wyndham St., Central, 2530-3870. LILY — Get buzzed in and out of Lily’s fabulous secret room, the Blind Pig. Aesthetes will be delighted that so much attention has been paid to the visual elements of the venue. 6/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-6166. Lion Rock — Lion Rock is the place to unwind and relax while having one (or more) of 193 signature cocktails. Enjoy the awesome view and weekly wine and whisky tastings. 3/F, Royal Plaza Hotel, 193 Prince Edward Rd. West, Mong Kok, 2622-6167. M BAR — Set against the heights of Hong Kong’s skyline, the Mandarin Oriental’s M Bar makes for a ravishingly chic hangout. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4002. Martini BAR — This stylish hotel bar has nightly entertainment, a range of cocktails beyond just martinis and is one of the few cigar lounges in town. G/F, The Royal Garden, 69 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2733-2995. MCSORLEY’S ALE HOUSE — Woody, Irish and vaguely Victorian, McSorley’s is the biggest pub in SoHo. 55 Elgin St., Central, 2522-2646.

The Lawn — This outdoor garden is a genuine urban oasis, exuding a serene, intimate vibe and illuminated entirely by a few candles. 6/F, The Upper House, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106. The Parlour — The kitschy-chic bar sits betwixt the equally droll west and east dining rooms, and looks like an exotic dive in 70s London Chinatown. Hullet House, 2A Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3988-0101.

KEE CLUB — A good concierge should be able to get you into this exclusive members-only club, where you can sip a cocktail and check out the Picassos, antiques and colonial-style service. 6/F, Yeung Kee Building, 32 Wellington St., Central, 2810-9000. L’etage — With the feel of a true gentlemen’s club, this is a place for refined Hongkongers to sit back and relax with a traditionally made cocktail in one hand and a cigar in another. It’s worth coming back just to watch head bartender Katsuhisa Hirakawa hand-carve spheres of ice for whisky. 22/F, Macau Yat Yuen Centre, 525 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2522-5300.

The Lawn

THE PAWN — The modern British restaurant and bar, a former pawn shop, has an outdoor balcony from which to enjoy a view of Hong Kong’s 100-year-old trams. 62 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-3444.

Red Bar

RED BAR — Located on a terrace atop IFC Mall, this funky destination bar has a breathtaking public outdoor area with harbor views. 4/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance St., Central, 8129-8882.

The Tonno — This complex features a bar, a clubbing zone, a restaurant, a live music lounge and karaoke rooms, taking “allaround entertainment” to a whole new level. Head here for an epic marathon of dancing, drinking, Elton John hits, dart games and Shanghainese buns. 5 Tonnochy Rd., Wan Chai, 3125-3888.

RIEDEL ROOM — The world’s first Riedel Room offers exclusive wines to be enjoyed in Riedel crystal glassware. Lobby, JW Marriott Hotel, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2841-3836. Sake Bar Ginn — Sake sommelier Ayuchi Momose is behind this upper-floor bar. In addition to serving 100 types of sake and 30 Japanese tapas, she also imports special sakes by microbreweries. Shop 4C, 4/F, Ho Lee Commercial Building, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2536-4355. Salon de Ning — Decadent Shanghai art deco lounge with live music Tue-Thu. UG/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2696-6705. SHORE — A chill outdoor space and one of the most extensive drinks selection in town. Newly renovated. 3/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2915-1638. Staunton’s — Considered the best “peoplewatching spot” in Hong Kong, Staunton’s has the right equation for a chill evening drink. It also has an eclectic menu. 10-12 Staunton St., Central, 2973-6611. SUGAR — Sink into one of the sofas at this swanky rooftop bar and enjoy the amazing views of the harbor. 32/F, East Hotel, 29 Tai Koo Shing Rd., Quarry Bay, 3968-3738.

Vibes

VIBES — The Mira hotel’s svelte alfresco drinks venue is home to a stunning secret garden. 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5999. VOLAR — Frequented by models and wannabes, Volar can be exclusive, but you can dance the night away to top DJs. B/F, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2810-1510. WOOLOOMOOLOO — This steakhouse outlet boasts a gorgeous rooftop with stunning views of Victoria Harbour and the Happy Valley horse racing track. 31/F, The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2893-6960.

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ShopS+Services | The Guide

Get Your Gear On Be sure to stock up on the proper items for a fun-filled Sevens weekend. By Katie Kenny

1. Closed-toe shoes

3. Tissues and antibacterial gel

Things get messy at the Hong Kong Stadium. Drinks and food are left on the floor, spilled or tossed around. Combat boots are great for the occasion, but rain boots, ankle booties and trainers are just as good. Just don't wear a pair you're particularly attached to.

This is just good practice for all outdoor events. But don’t waste your tissues when you're stuffing up on greasy stadium food. Save them for the restrooms! Cowshed, $80 (available at Lane Crawford)

4. Sunscreen Ransom, $750 (available at WOAW)

Converse, $549

Aigle, $1,780

The weather forecast for the Sevens weekend changes every year. Sometimes it rains, sometimes it's cold and sometimes it’s the sun in full force. Avoid turning your face tomato red and pick up a little handy tube of sunscreen.

5. Raincoat If you don't want to miss any of the games—or be soaked head to toe for the entire day—stuff a light weight rain jacket into your bag. This will also come in handy if you happen to be in the South Stand near the end of Sunday, because it will rain beer.

Manish Arora, $2,500 (available at On Pedder)

6. Portable phone charger Rains, $280 (available at Kapok)

Maje, $3,490

2. Small carry-all

Rabeanco, $1,380

WOAW: 11 Gough St., Central, 2253-1313. Converse: 3/F, East Point City, 555 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2831-8963. Aigle: Shop 2013, 2/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2918-1190.

This is essential for a worry-free weekend. Just don't bring outside food or beverages in since everyone gets checked at the entrance. Make sure the bag you bring can be properly sealed and it's the type of material you can wipe clean at the end of the day.

The second battery or portable charger is a lifesaver and great for when travelling abroad.

7. Team jersey We're all here to support our countries. Get your team's official jersey at the HK Stadium.

On Pedder: 1/F, New World Tower, 18 Queen's Rd. Central, 2118-3489.

Rabeanco: Shop 4A, G/F, 33 Sharp St. East, Causeway Bay, 2245-5085.

Kapok: 3 Sun St., Wan Chai, 2520-0144.

Lane Crawford: 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2118-3388.

Maje: Shop 3085B, 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2234-7396.

Almost all goods, apart from certain types of alcohol and tobacco, are tax-free.

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ShopS+Services | The Guide

Fly Me to the Moon Check yourself in for a relaxing massage before your flight back home.

Plateau Spa at Grand Hyatt Hong Kong is offering a two-hour “Anti-stress Preflight Massage” package for travelers looking to loosen up before their long journey home. Enjoy a hydrating green-tea based massage as well as a dip in the bath at $1,800 per person—we bet you’ll be ready to conquer the plane's dry cabin air after this. Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2588-1234.

Shopping Centers

HORIZON PLAZA — It may not look promising but this is something of a mecca for bargain fashion, furniture and Chinese antiques. The industrial high-rise features Lane Crawford and Joyce outlets. Also look for homeware emporium Tequila Kola and antiques warehouse Shambala. 2 Lee Wing St., Ap Lei Chau, 2554-9089.

APM — In the center of Kwun Tong, APM opens late (11am) but closes even later (2am). It boasts 150 shops, a cinema, more than 20 international restaurants and a convenient link to the MTR station. Millennium City 5, 418 Kwun Tong Rd., Kwun Tong, 3148-1200. Hysan Place

HYSAN PLACE — This brand-new mall is a great one-stop shopping destination, with over 120 stores (including hard-to-find Japanese brands) and tons of high-quality dining options. 500 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2886-7222.

HARBOUR CITY — This enormous stretch of shops runs along Canton Road for what seems like miles. Its four levels of shops, services and restaurants sprawl across over 2 million square feet. 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2118-8601. 30 W H E R E HONG KONG I m a r c h 2 0 1 4

THE LANDMARK — The Landmark is a fashion mecca centered around a five-story atrium. Don’t miss iconic London department store Harvey Nichols. 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3428-8086. LANGHAM PLACE — Occupying about 600,000 square feet, Langham Place houses fashion and lifestyle stores and more than 20 restaurants. It’s within walking distance of the Ladies’ Market and Fa Yuen Street. 8 Argyle St., Mongkok, 3514-9088, www.langhamplace.com.hk.

Elements

ELEMENTS — Two floors and a million square feet of retail heaven beneath Hong Kong’s tallest building, the ICC, this luxury mall offers international cuisine and world-class shopping. Other features include a cinema, ice rink and enormous roof garden. 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2735-5234.

ISLAND BEVERLEY — Browse through closetsized boutiques offering the best of hip local designers. 1 Great George St., Causeway Bay, 2890-6823.

IFC Mall

IFC MALL — This popular shopping center is home to more than 200 international highend brands with Lane Crawford acting as an anchor. It also has a luxurious cinema, and some of the finest dining in the city. Easily accessible via MTR, Airport Express and Star Ferry. 8 Finance St., Central, 2295-3308.

LEE GARDENS — Divided into Lee Gardens and Lee Gardens Two, this luxury mall is stuffed with high-end retailers such as Gucci, Hermes, Louis Vuitton and more. Lee Gardens Two has children’s fashion shops, and there are plenty of restaurants to choose from. 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2907-2166, www.hysan.com.hk.

ShopS+Services | The Guide Kapok — Offers meticulously selected international and local brands for menswear, womenswear, bags and accessories, as well as lifestyle products. G/F, 5, St Francis Yard Wan Chai, 2549-9254. SPY Henry Lau — Edgy and bold fashion for men and women. 1/F, 5 Cleveland St., Causeway Bay, 2317-6928.

Department Stores Harvey Nichols — The Hong Kong branch of London’s department store is a haven of international brands, with a good restaurant— the Fourth Floor —and a fabulous beauty department. The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3695-3388.

Harvey Nichols at Pacific Place

PACIFIC PLACE — One of the most popular malls in Hong Kong, Pacific Place has four floors of upscale shops and restaurants anchored by a massive Harvey Nichols. There’s also a nice range of eateries and a multi-screen cinema. 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8900. PRINCE’S BUILDING — Prince’s Building is linked by covered walkway to The Landmark, Chater House, Alexandra House and The Galleria. A cozy mixture of the uberfashionable, the artistic and the maternal, it also houses the excellent Oliver’s supermarket. 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2500-0555.

Joyce

Squarestreet

Squarestreet — Seriously hipster shoes and accessories. G/F, 15 Square St., Sheung Wan, 2362-1086.

One Peking — Satisfy your thirst for designer wear with Dior, Fendi, Miu Miu and Cartier. 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3417-3000.

JOYCE — Named after founder and Hong Kong’s first lady of fashion, Joyce Ma, this is the place for red-hot fashion and accessories, cult beauty brands and too-chic housewares. G/F, New World Tower, 18 Queen’s Rd. Central, 28101120; Shop 232, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2523-5944; Shop 106, Harbour City, 2-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-8128.

Rise Commercial Building — A playground for hip, trendy and young fashionistas. 5-11 Granville Circuit, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-4723. TIMES SQUARE — One of Hong Kong’s largest malls, this 13-story complex contains more than 230 shops—including Lane Crawford, upscale Japanese supermarket City’super, Page One books and a cinema. 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2118-8900.

Shops, Boutiques and Local Designers Blanc de Chine — Modern Chinese luxury clothing and accessories for women and men. Shop 123, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2104-7934. Daydream Nation — A locally grown label that incorporates fashion with other art forms like theater, dance, music, film and visual arts. They offer their own collection of clothing and accessories as well as works from local artists and indie bands. Daydream Nation Circus Shop, 2/F, Hong Kong Arts Centre, 2 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2817-6313.

Tang Tang Tang Tang

Tang tang tang tang — Sir David Tang's casual lifestyle store stocks everything from rice cookers to pyjamas. G/F, 66 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2525-2112. Vivienne Tam — Elegant, feminine contemporary dresses with a Chinese twist. Shop 209, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2918-0238. Walter Ma — Well-established designer offering luxury fashion. 174 Wellington St., Causeway Bay, 2838-7655.

Lane Crawford

LANE CRAWFORD — This Hong Kong institution is almost as old as the city itself, and just as fashionable. It’s stacked with must-have designer brands as well as handbags, shoes, silver, linen, crystal and everything in between. 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2118-3388.

Western Market — An Edwardian-styled building with restaurants and shops selling Chinese crafts and fabrics. 323 Des Voeux Rd. Central, Sheung Wan, 6029-2675.

Shanghai Tang

G.O.D.

G.O.D. — Some “Goods of Desire” for those searching for the perfect couch or unique home accessories. G-1/F, 48 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-1876. 32 W H E R E HONG KONG I m a r c h 2 0 1 4

Wudai Shiguo

Wudai Shiguo — This shop in the trendy Star Street neighborhood is a collaboration between a group of local designers and stocks American vintage -style fashion and accessories. 9B1 St. Francis St., Wan Chai, 2528-3800.

SHANGHAI TANG — Shanghai Tang specializes in a funky fusion of traditional and contemporary Chinese design. You’ll find kitsch accessories, great housewares, fun T-shirts, fashion for men and women and incredibly beautiful bespoke cheongsams. The brand-new flagship is worth a visit. 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333. SOGO — Japan’s most famous department store sits at one of the city’s busiest intersections. 555 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2833-8338.

ShopS+Services

The Swank

THE SWANK — Representing established designers as well as up-and-coming talents, The Swank has been one of the finest local fashion houses since 1955. It has 17 free-standing boutiques and points-of-sale in major department stores. Shop 103B, 1/F, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-0842.

Chinese Emporiums CHINESE ARTS AND CRAFTS — Stuffed with the best of Chinese crafts, from tablecloths to objets d’art to some incredible jade, this is one of the best places to stock up on gifts, porcelain, jewelry, cloth and fine antiques. 1/F, Silvercord, 30 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-4061. YUE HWA CHINESE EMPORIUM — Yue Hwa is a great place to pick up souvenirs and gifts, from acupuncture needles to Chinese Zodiac figurines. There is a good selection of cheongsams, tops and trousers tailored from quality silk. 143-161 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2739-3888.

Tailors DAVID FASHIONs — G/F, Shop 15, Empress C Plaza, 17-19 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-6884. M L & K bespoke Tailor — G/F, Mirador Y Mansion, 54-64 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, CM 2369-7278. MY Nita Fashions — G/F, 16 Mody Rd., Tsim vSha Tsui. 2721-9990, www.nitafashions.com. CY

Punjab House — 5/F, Suite C, Golden Crown CMY Court, 66-70 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-6612, www.punjabhouse.com.hk. K Raja Fashions — G/F, 34C Cameron Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-7624, www.raja-fashions.com. REGAL fashion — G/F, Shop 15, Houston Centre, 63 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-6007. Sam’s Tailor — Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 90-94 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-9423. Shaniel Custom Tailor — G/F, Shop B & C, Comfort Building, 86-88A Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2730-1251. m a r c h 2 0 1 4 I WHERE H ONG KONG 33

Navigate | The Guide

Tourist Information HONG KONG TOURISM BOARD — The Hong Kong Tourism Board is ready to answer all your questions about travel in Hong Kong. Look for visitor centers at the following locations: Hong Kong International Airport (at Buffer Halls A and B, Arrivals Level, Terminal 1); Lo Wu (Arrival Hall, 2/F Lo Wu Terminal Building); Kowloon (Star Ferry Concourse, Tsim Sha Tsui, open daily 8am-8pm); and The Peak Piazza (between The Peak Tower and The Peak Galleria, Hong Kong Island, open daily 9am-9pm). You can also call the Visitor Hotline (2508-1234) from 9am to 6pm. Visit www.discoverhonghong.com for descriptions of attractions, plus shopping, dining and touring tips. The website also has a comprehensive description of the month’s events and festivals, as well as virtual tours, e-cards, a photo gallery and handy downloadable apps for your phone.

Get Moving

Octopus Cards

Hong Kong has a great public transportation system called the MTR, as well as highly punctual, carefully scheduled buses (with their routes clearly printed in English). Renting a car can be a headache because roads can be confusing and parking costly. It’s cheaper and easier to take a taxi, ferry, tram, bus, hotel limousine, or even a helicopter.

These are “wave-and-go” stored-value cards used across all of Hong Kong’s transportation systems (apart from taxis), and in retail outlets like car parks and convenience stores.

Taxis Taxis are readily available at reasonable prices. Be aware that drivers cannot pick up or drop off on roads marked with double yellow lines, and no waiting is allowed except on unmarked roads. Red taxis serve Hong Kong Island and Kowloon and can go anywhere in the territory. Green taxis cost less but only serve the New Territories. Similarly, blue taxis serve Lantau Island only. Drivers generally speak some English, but it is wise to get the hotel staff to write your destination in Chinese characters, or point to one of the destinations in this guide.

The size of a credit card, the Octopus is simply placed on the touch pads at the entrance to public transportation or the cash register in shops. Payment is automatically deducted. Cards can be refilled at MTR stations and any retail outlet that accepts them. Three types of Octopus cards are available. The “On Loan Octopus” costs $150, which includes a $50 deposit and $100 of stored value. The “Sold Octopus” costs $48, and does not include any stored value. The “Airport Express Travel Pass” costs $220/$300 and includes one/two single Airport Express journeys and three days of unlimited rides on the MTR, $20 stored value and a $50 deposit.

Trams have been a part of Hong Kong life for more than 100 years. With a $2.30 flat fare, they are still the cheapest way to get around.

34 W H E R E HONG KONG I m a r c h 2 014

Navigate Buses

Go BoHo in PoHo

Hong Kong has two major bus companies:

Explore a trendy neighborhood in Sheung Wan.

citybus / New World First BUS — 2136-8888/2873-0818, www.nwstbus.com.hk.

Kowloon Motor Bus — 2745-4466, www.kmb.hk.

Sights & Attractions AVENUE OF STARS — Fans of Hong Kong movies will find their heroes’ handprints permanently etched in concrete along the Avenue of the Stars. There's also a statue of martial artist Bruce Lee. Go at 8pm for the nightly Symphony of Lights. It's the only place where music plays over loudspeakers, although the light display can be seen around the city. Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront. BANK OF CHINA TOWER — I. M. Pei designed this 70-story building and bank headquarters to resemble stalks of bamboo. 1 Garden Rd., Central.

Nosh Big Buddha

Just south of Hollywood Road in Sheung Wan, and west of Man Mo Temple, you’ll find side streets dotted with quirky boutiques, cafes and artsy shops. The whole area is known as “PoHo”—short for Po Hing Fong, one of the more populous streets in the enclave. Give these places a visit while you’re there.

Nosh Nosh offers a casual space to eat breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner. You can order yogurts, crepes, eggs of all styles, cold cuts, cheeses, pastries and generally lighter fare at this western diner, all while nursing a milkshake, smoothie or a fancy coffee. G/F, 11 Upper Station St., Sheung Wan, 2559-8508.

Upper Modern Bistro Upper Modern Bistro is one of the latest restaurants to take residence in PoHo. Owned by chef Philippe Orrico, who used to head St. George restaurant at boutique hotel Hullett House, the resto serves French tapas and other fusion fare. 6-14 Upper Station St., Sheung Wan, 2517-0977.

Homei This neighborhood cafe may be easy to overlook, but you’d be missing out by not giving Homei a second glance. With only enough seating for six or so people, the café fills up quickly during the lunch rush, with patrons sometimes spilling out onto the sidewalk during balmier months. Shop B, 22-24A Tai Ping Shan St., Sheung Wan, 2857-9991.

Eclectic Cool

Eclectic Cool has everything from sofas to rugs, jewelry to books. Besides its carefully curated designs, Eclectic Cool is also home to Australian and British brands such as By Joost ceramics, Tori Murphy knits, Mineheart wallpaper and Another Country furniture. If you prefer old-school throwbacks, check out the shop’s antique and vintage lines. Complimentary gift wrapping is available. 58 Po Hing Fong, Sheung Wan, 2549-6682.

BIG BUDDHA — One of the world’s largest Buddhas, the Tian Tan Buddha took 12 years to build and sits on a lotus throne atop Lantau Island. The more than 200 steps to the top are open from 10am to 6pm daily and definitely recommended for the spectacular mountain views. Special admission tickets are available and include a vegetarian meal. Also check out the nearby Po Lin Monastery and the Wisdom Path. Take the MTR to Tung Chung Station and then Bus 23 to Ngong Ping. CHI LIN NUNNERY — An oasis of peace in the heart of Kowloon, this graceful, wooden Buddhist nunnery is the largest building in the world to be constructed using no nails—only wooden dowels and brackets. It’s a 23,600-square-meter complex whose architectural style dates back to the Tang Dynasty, although the buildings themselves were completed in 1997. It’s centered on a courtyard filled with lotus ponds. Vegetarian food is available. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1888. CONVENTION AND EXHIBITION CENTRE — Finished in time to host the handover ceremony in July 1997, the center’s roof was designed to look like a seabird’s wings in flight. 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai, 2582-8888. HONG KONG DISNEYLAND — Take a trip back to the 1900s on Main Street, catch a train to Fantasyland, float down the Rivers of Adventure, catch a show or blast through outer space in Tomorrowland. When you’re done charting your exotic surroundings take a moment to dine, shop or cavort with the various Disney characters who roam the park. It’s easy to get to via MTR, bus or car. See the website for transportation details. Lantau Island, 1-830-830, park.hongkongdisneyland.com. m a r c h 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 35

Navigate | The Guide

Hong Kong Dolphinwatch — Catch a glimpse of the pink dolphins, an animal so unique to these waters that it was named the official mascot of Hong Kong’s 1997 handover. Tours depart every Wed, Fri and Sun from the Kowloon Hotel in Tsim Tsa Tsui at 9am, or from Tung Chung. The cruise takes up to five hours, and if no dolphins are seen, the company provides a free “go-again guarantee.” $380 for adults, $190 for children under 12, $50 for babies under 3, with proceeds going to dolphin research. Call 2984-1414 or visit www.hkdolphinwatch.com.

Sam’s The Man

HONG KONG ZOOLOGICAL AND BOTANICAL GARDENS — Home to 12 endangered species, the zoo successfully breeds rare birds and orangutans. Established in 1871, the park retains all the Victorian accents from that era and is an idyllic spot in the middle of the city. Admission free. Open daily 6am-7pm. Garden Rd., Central. A staircase from Upper Albert Rd. leads to the main entrance.

(Just ask his customers)

OPEN-TOP BUS TOUR — One Big Bus day tour ticket includes 24 hour hop-on-hop-off access to the red tour (Hong Kong Island) and the blue tour (Kowloon), as well as prerecorded commentary in 10 languages and other perks. Unit KP-38, 1/F, Kowloon Star Ferry Pier, Tsim Sha Tsui, 3102-9021.

Peak Tram

PEAK TRAM AND VICTORIA PEAK — The world’s steepest funicular railway hauls passengers up Victoria Peak in approximately eight minutes. Once at the top, enjoy panoramic views of the city, or check out the restaurants, shops and various attractions at the Peak Galleria and Peak Tower. The tram runs daily 7am-midnight, tickets $28 one-way, $40 round trip. Garden Road and Cotton Tree Drive, 2522-0922. SIK SIK YUEN WONG TAI SIN TEMPLE — This active Buddhist temple is large and colorful with beautiful adjoining gardens. Have your fortune told by palm readers in the main arcade. Open 7am-5:30pm. A small donation is expected. Follow signs from Wong Tai Sin MTR stop. 2327-8141.

Sam’s Tailor, Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 92-94 Nathan Road, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon. Tel: (852) 2367 9423 / 2721 8375 Fax: (852) 2311 8147

Man Mo Temple

MAN MO TEMPLE — This temple was built in 1847 to honor the God of Literature, Man Cheong, and the God of War, Mo Tai. A grade-1 historical building, it is one of biggest tourist attractions in Central. 124-126 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan.

Star Ferry

STAR FERRY — Cross Victoria Harbour between Hong Kong Island and the Kowloon Peninsula on the Star Ferry. These open-deck ferries are one of Hong Kong’s most recognizable attractions and a common, cheap—and pleasant—form of transportation. Take the MTR to Central or Tsim Sha Tsui and follow the signs.

Ngong Ping 360

NGONG PING 360 — Home to a theater, teahouse, nature center, cultural themed village and more, Ngong Ping 360 is best known for its 5.7-kilometer cable-car service that offers panoramic views of Lantau Island’s lush valleys, the South China Sea and the world-famous Tian Tan Buddha. Start from Tung Chung Station, 3666-0606. OCEAN PARK — Pay a visit to Hong Kong’s two pandas, take a cable car, then prepare for a good scream on Ocean Park's Turbo Drop thrill ride. Remember to check out the Grand Aquarium as well. Aberdeen, 3923-2323. 36 W H E R E HONG KONG I m a r c h 2 014

ST. JOHN’S CATHEDRAL — A beautiful cathedral built in the shape of a cross. Open daily from 7am to 6pm for quiet prayer and meditation. Take the MTR to Central Station Exit K.

Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery

TEN THOUSAND BUDDHAS MONASTERY — One of the most celebrated monasteries in Hong Kong, the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery actually has more than 12,800

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Buddhas stored in three temples, four pavilions and a five-story pagoda. The one that you’re likely to remember best is the mummified Buddhist monk Yuet Kai, who sits in splendor, coated in gold leaf, inside a glass case. Light meals are served at the on-site vegetarian restaurant. Sha Tin MTR, Exit B, 2691-1067, www.10kbuddhas.org. TAI O — This charming fishing village is a maze of stilt houses built over a creek on the very tip of Lantau Island. It’s a fascinating slice of old Hong Kong, with dried fish stalls, the picturesque Tin Hau Temple and a couple of interesting little museums. Take a ferry from Central.

Embassies & Consulates Argentina 2523-3208; Australia 2827-8881; Bangladesh 2827-4278; Belgium 2524-3111; Brazil 2525-7002; Canada 3719-4700; Chile 2827-1826; China (China Travel) 2853-3888; Columbia 2545-8547; Czech Republic 2802-2212; Egypt 2827-0668; Finland 2525-5385; France 3752-9900; Germany 2105-8788; Greece 2774-1682; India 3970-9900; Israel 2821-7500; Italy 2522-0033; Japan 2522-1184; Korea 25294141; Laos 2544-1186; Malaysia 2821-0800; Mexico 2511-3305; Netherlands 25229200; New Zealand 2525-5044; Pakistan 2827-0295; Philippines 2823-8501; Peru 2868-2622; Poland 2840-0779; Russia 2877-7188; Singapore 2527-2212; Spain 2525-3041; Sweden 2521-1212; Switzerland 3509-5000; Taiwan 2530-1187; Thailand 2521-6481; Turkey 2572-1331; United Arab Emirates 2866-1823; United Kingdom 2901-3000; USA 2523-9011; Venezuela 2730-8099; Vietnam 2591-4510.

Financial Matters Generally, business hours are weekdays 9am-5pm, with a lunch hour from 1pm2pm, and Saturdays 9am-1pm. The local currency is the Hong Kong dollar. There is no central mint; instead, notes are issued by three separate private banks and the city’s Monetary Authority. The Hong Kong dollar is pegged to the US dollar at a rate of approximately US$1 to HK$7.79. Denominations include $10, $20, $50, $100, $500 and $1,000 notes. Coins come in denominations of 10, 20 and 50 cents, and one, two, five and 10 dollars. BANKS — Major banks are open weekdays 9am-4:30pm, and Saturdays 9am12:30pm. Banks are closed Sundays and public holidays. Some services, such as foreign exchange-related transactions, are not available at banks one hour before closing. The following details are for the banks’ main offices, call for retail locations: Bank of America, 41/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance St., Central, 2847-5222; Citibank, Citibank Tower, 3 Garden Rd., Central, 2868-8888; HSBC, 1 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2233-3000; Standard Chartered Bank, 4 Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2886-8868. m a r c h 2 014 I WHERE H ONG KONG 37

Walking Tours | The Guide

A Taste of Hong Kong’s Markets

Goldfish Market

For a non-stop-shop experience like the local urbanites have, you need look no further than Yau Ma Tei and Mong Kok—the heart of the Kowloon Peninsula. Within these two neighborhoods are side streets and alleys that are home to some of Hong Kong’s liveliest markets. You’ll be amazed by the teeming masses jostling to and fro in this unique and atmospheric district. Walking through Yau Ma Tei and Mong Kok is a memorable experience any time of the day or night. You’ll love the ambience and the great deals you can get on souvenirs, clothing, electronic goods and much more.

Walk along Tung Choi Street, turn left into Bute Street and then turn right into Fa Yuen Street.

Shops selling colorful fish of different species along with furnishings and decorations for aquariums line both sides of Tung Choi Street. The shops are usually open 10:30am-10pm daily.

Fa Yuen Street Fa Yuen Street is the place to be if you want to find trendy fashions and casual wear for men, women and children at bargain prices. Open 11am-9:30pm daily.

Walk along Fa Yuen Street to Mong Kok Road, turn right and cross the road to reach another section of Tung Choi Street. Walk to Argyle Street and cross the road to reach the starting point of the Ladies’ Market.

Ladies’ Market

Head to the Prince Edward MTR Station and exit at B1. Walk east along Prince Edward Road West to the Yuen Po Street Bird Garden.

Yuen Po Street Bird Garden Set within an attractive Chinese-style courtyard, the Yuen Po Street Bird Garden is a market catering to the owners of pet birds. They come to the market with cage in hand to find new birds of different types and sizes, buy accessories and food for their pets, or to just take their pet birds for a “walk” and meet up with other bird owners. The garden, with its many singing avian creatures, offers a unique Hong Kong experience. Open 7am-8pm daily. 38 W H E R E HONG KONG I m a r c h 2 014

Walk through the Bird Garden to the junction of Yuen Po Street and Flower Market Road.

Flower Market This hub of Hong Kong’s wholesale and retail floral business will welcome you first with the sweet natural fragrances and then with the eye-catching colors of flowers and plants sold for very attractive prices. Open 7am-7pm daily. At the end of Flower Market Road, turn left and then right into Prince Edward Road West. Walk west until you see a gas station, then left into Tung Choi Street.

Don’t be deceived by the name. The Ladies’ Market has something for everyone, vending bargain-priced items including men’s and women’s clothing, knickknacks, watches and beauty products. Beside the stalls are Hong Kong-style cafes that offer local favorites. Open noon-11:30pm daily. Walk through the Ladies’ Market to its end at Dundas Street. Turn right and walk to Shanghai Street, then turn left.

Shanghai Street Get a taste of the bygone days of Hong Kong and visit one of the city’s oldest streets. Many of the buildings date back to the early 1900s, and some shops have existed for decades. Look for shops selling Chinese-style wedding clothes, which feature stunning embroidery. In the past there were many of these shops;

now, just a few remain. It’s also a great place to pick up bargain kitchenware. Continue along Shanghai Street and turn right at Kansu Street to find the Jade Market.

Jade Market/Jade Street About 400 registered stall-owners sell amulets, ornaments, necklaces and trinkets made from the revered green stone. This is a fun place to browse and to buy an inexpensive memento of your visit, but think twice before buying anything costly unless you are a jade expert. Open 10am5pm daily. Nearby is Jade Street, located on Canton Road between Kansu Street and Jordan Road, with shops open Mon-Sat 10am-4pm. Jade and gemstone testing is available at Jade Plaza. A giant jade stone, weighing three tons, has been placed at the junction of Canton Road and Jordan Road as a landmark. Go back to Shanghai Street, walk north to the junction of Shanghai and Public Square streets, turn right and walk to the Tin Hau Temple.

HONG KONG

Tin Hau Temple This temple is dedicated to Tin Hau, the goddess of seafarers. Its location in the middle of Yau Ma Tei might seem odd, but long ago, before massive land reclamation, it was on the harbor. The waterfront has since been pushed to the south, but people continue to worship here. You can go inside 8am-5pm daily. Walk to Temple Street, which you’ll find on the other side of the temple.

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Temple Street Night Market This is the famous night market, open from 4pm until midnight daily, where you can find all kinds of cheapo items, including clothes, sunglasses, gadgets and curios. You’ll also often see fortune tellers, Cantonese opera singers and professional Chinese chess players hanging out too.

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30 Things we LOve about Hong Kong 1

1 Counting the Ten Thousand

9 Shaking fortune-telling

Buddhas at this peaceful hilltop monastery near Sha Tin.

bamboo sticks at the Wong Tai Sin Temple.

2 Dressing up for high tea at

!0 Saying hi to Bruce Lee at the Avenue of Stars, Tsim Sha Tsui.

The Peninsula. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-3169.

3 Watching the sunset from tranquil Pui O Beach, Lantau Island.

4 Having our palms read at the Temple Street night market, Yau Ma Tei.

5 Spotting endangered white dolphins with Dolphinwatch off Lantau Island, 2984-1414.

6 Going on thrill rides and petting pandas at Ocean Park. Aberdeen, 3923-2323.

7 Dining aboard the kitschy-cool Jumbo Floating Restaurant. Shum Wan Pier Drive, Wong Chuk Hang, Aberdeen, 2553-9111.

8 Cruising Victoria Harbour on the Duk Ling, an authentic Chinese fishing junk, 2573-5282.

!1 Shopping at Times Square, 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay. !2 Eating with the locals at a dai pai dong food stall. Gough Street, Central. !3 Hiking around the beautiful Sai Kung Peninsula. !4 Riding the cable car 5.7 kilometers over Lantau’s lush valleys to visit the Tian Tin Buddha (Big Buddha). !5 Haggling with hawkers for jade, gold and cheap jewelry at the Jade Market. Kansu and Battery Streets, Yau Ma Tei. !6 Queing for coveted dim sum at Tim Ho Wan. Shop 12A, Hong Kong Station (Podium Level 1, IFC Mall, Central, 2332-3078). !7 Setting your watch by the Noonday Gun. 221 Gloucester Rd. (opposite The Excelsior), Causeway Bay.

42 W H E R E HONG KONG I m a r c h 2 014

!8 Snaking through the high-rises on the Mid-Levels Escalator—the longest in the world. Cochrane, Shelley and Peel Streets, Central. !9 Meeting Pui Pui, our famous crocodile, at the eco-friendly Hong Kong Wetland Park. Tin Shui Wai, New Territories, 2708-8885. @0 Taking the Peak Tram to visit Hong Kong celebrities at Madame Tussauds. Shop P10, The Peak Tower, 128 Peak Rd., 2849-6966. @1 Exploring Lamma Island, then feasting on deep-fried squid at Rainbow Seafood. 16-24 First St., Sok Kwu Wan, Lamma Island, 2982-8100. @2 Marveling at the beautiful Chi Lin Nunnery, the world’s largest building to be constructed without nails. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, Kowloon. @3 Taking the oldest ride in Hong Kong—a tram from Western District to Causeway Bay.

@4 Enjoying free traditional kung fu demonstrations and cultural performances at Kowloon Park every Sunday from 2:30-4:30pm, weather permitting. @5 Taking a romantic trip from Central to Tsim Sha Tsui on the famous Star Ferry. @6 Taking a walk down the Historic Trail at the Museum of Coastal Defence, 2569-1500. @7 Drinking in the view at panoramic bar Aqua Spirit. 30/F, One Peking, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288. @8 Checking out the old Kowloon-Canton Railway Corporation clocktower. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. @9 Getting a shave and a trim at the Mandarin Barber. 5 Connaught Rd., Central, 2522-0111. #0 Bird-watching at the Mai Po Marshes, Mai Po, 2526-4473.

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