M ay 2 013
the complete guide to go
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Art And the City A r t fa i r s g a l o re
Hong Kong
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Bars with a view Tea cafes Fun in Sai Ying Pun
where Hong Kong 5.13 ®
the guide
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06 Hot Dates Hong Kong’s hottest concerts, shows and events
20 art + antiques Top galleries and our pick of what’s happening
30 dining Your A-Z of the best eats in town
38 nightlife Our favorite places to sip a cocktail
52 Walking Tour Explore a neighborhood on foot
54 Maps Kowloon & Hong Kong Island
Also inside 40 Shops + services From mega malls to local designers 46 NAVIGATE Fast facts and essential info
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features
58 30 THINGS WE LOVE Hong Kong’s all-time top spots and best experiences
10 Art to Art Take part in the city's exciting art fairs this month
28 Tea, Please
on the cover M ay 2013
Hong Kong's coolest tea cafes
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the coMplete guide to go
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Hong Kong
50 Cool 'Hood Sai Ying Pun: one of Hong Kong's trendiest districts Art And the City A r t fa i r s g a l o re
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Bars with a view tea cafes
This painting by Chinese painter Ling Jian will be featured at the Asia Contemporary Art Show from May 23 to May 26. See page 10.
fun in sai Ying Pun
wheretraveler.com The new website from the editors of Where Magazine. Get all the latest city buzz from our experts—info only the locals know.
MAY 2013 I WH ERE h ong k o n g 3
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On the web: www.where-hongkong.com asia city Media group acMG | ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION Publisher & Executive Editor Stephen Freeman COUNTRY MANAGER Greg Crandall ADVERTISING director Jan Cheng Advertising manager Heisen Cheng Advertising Executives Ivor Ngo, Maggie Chong Advertising Coordinator Sharon Cheung Marketing MANAGER James Gannaban Marketing & Circulation Executive Charmaine Mirandilla REGIONAL IT SYSTEMS Manager Derek Wong
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hot dates Hong Kong
April 17 – June 23 French Fervor From its humble beginnings in 1993, Le French May has developed into one of the most successful cultural festivals in Hong Kong. Essentially, LFM is a morethan-month-long celebration of French culture, with hundreds of events like classical concerts, theater, movie screenings and lunch and dinner promotions at various Francophone establishments across the city. Be sure to check out their website for complete program details. -Rob Mills Various establishments across the city, www.frenchmay.com. 6 W H ERE H ONG KONG I maY 2013
hot dates May 2 – June 9
Wise Quack
May 3 Belt Your Heart Out Hong Kong will be glad to welcome the magnificent tenor voice of Andrea Bocelli, and his ability to serenade an audience with absolute ease. Among other songs, Bocelli will be performing compositions by Giuseppe Verdi, whose bicentennial will be celebrated this year. 8pm. Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Hall 5BC (Expo Drive Entrance), 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai. $780-3,980, www.hkticketing.com.
Hong Kong’s harbor is set to be the new backdrop for Dutch artist Florentijn Hofman’s recent conceptual piece: a giant 16.5-meter inflatable rubber duck that floats in the ocean instead of a tub. There will undoubtedly be an element of nostalgia among many as they reminisce over this iconic bathtub companion docked at Ocean Terminal. The duck will be here for a brief stint before bringing joy to other ports of call across the world. Running in parallel is a photo exhibition showcasing some of the other countries and cities visited by the “Rubber Duck,” from now until May 26. Ocean Terminal, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui.
May 14 –18
Through May 12
May 16 – 26
Buns Away!
Dance, Baby, Dance
Wan Chai Blues
There is nothing more fun than witnessing a competition that involves climbing up a gigantic tower full of buns. The annual Cheung Chau Bun Festival will be taking place this month, along with a number of parades and festivities that will attract thousands of tourists and locals alike. Some of the main events include Taoist rituals, lion dances, a parade, and a substantial amount of drum beating. Cheung Chau Island, check www.
The iconic London West End musical “Dirty Dancing: The Classic Story On Stage” is set to open at the Cultural Centre. A stage adaptation of the iconic 1987 film, the musical is a reimagining of the story of 17-year-old Frances “Baby” Houseman, who meets Johnny, a dashing dance instructor, while on a family holiday. This production will feature a cast singing a score of 55 songs, including classic songs such as “Hungry Eyes,” “Hey Baby,” and—of course—”Time of My Life.” Various times. Grand Theatre, Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. $395-995 from www.urbtix.hk.
Locally produced musical “Good Morning Hong Kong” will feature a mix of international and local talent. The story is centered on a troubled marriage between a rock’n’roll singer and his wife, who jointly own a bar in Wan Chai. The story promises to contain all the features of a Broadway or West End production, while capturing the overall vibe of Hong Kong. May 18-19, 25-26, 2:30pm;
discoverhongkong.com for more details.
May 16-16 7:30pm. APA Lyric Theatre, Wan Chai. $320-690 from www.hkticketing.com.
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hot dates Hong Kong May 18
May 11-25
May 10
Bangin’ Beats
Recorder King
Tale of Woe
Recorder virtuoso Stefan Temmingh makes his Hong Kong debut alongside the Sinfonietta’s newly appointed associate conductor Jason Lai (pictured), playing selections from Vivaldi, Schneider, Sibelius and Pärt in “Jason Lai: Sibelius.” Temmingh is a leader among a young generation of world-class recorder players, and he’s an internationally acclaimed talent and a mustsee for classical music lovers in the mood for something a bit different. 8pm. Concert Hall,
The Hong Kong Repertory Theatre’s first event in their 2013/14 season is a performance of Anton Chekhov’s final (and some might say finest) play, “The Cherry Orchard,” a work both farcical and tragic. Directed by Ceri Sherlock, the story follows a struggling aristocratic woman as she returns to her home in 19th Century Russia to find that her beloved cherry orchard is being sold off. Will she and her family accept the realities of a rapidly changing society, or fight for what’s theirs? Performed in Cantonese but with Chinese and English surtitles. May 11, 14-18,
City Hall, 5 Edinburgh Place, Central. $140-320 from www.urbtix.hk.
June 1
One of the biggest names in the music industry today, David Guetta has produced countless singles and remixes for artists around the world, and has sold 6 million albums worldwide. Catch his live show at the AsiaWorld-Expo, which is guaranteed to be a night to remember. May 10, 7pm. Hall 10, AsiaWorld-Expo, Chek Lap Kok. $580-880 from www.hkticketing.com.
May 6
21-25, 7:45pm; May 12, 18-19, 25-26, 2:45pm. Theatre, City Hall, 5 Edinburgh Place, Central. $140-280 from www.urbtix.hk.
May 3
Foggy Vision One of the world’s most illustrious alternative rock bands, Blur is set to visit Hong Kong in May. With a prolific career in the music industry and dozens of hits under their belt, the four-piece band’s live performance is one absolutely not to be missed. 8pm. AsiaWorldArena, 1 Sky Plaza Rd., Chek Lap Kok. $480-880 from www.hkticketing.com.
May 25
Roughin’ It
Star DJ
The British & Irish Lions will be facing off against the nomadic (read: no home turf) Barbarians in an intense rugby match for the first time ever in Hong Kong. Both sides have a remarkable following, and will feature some of the top players from around the globe. This event will be an unforgettable experience and perfect for the whole family. 7:30pm. Hong Kong Stadium, 55 Eastern Hospital Rd., So Kon Po. $750-1,290 from www.hkticketing.com.
Legendary DJ and dance music pioneer Paul Oakenfold has worked with big names such as Madonna, the Rolling Stones and Michael Jackson. He’ll be in town to spin at the W Hotel for the aptly named, one-night-only “Paul Oakenfold and Friends—Way Out East Tour.” May 3, 8pm. Great Room, W Hotel, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 3717-2222. $480-688 from www.hkevents.com/oakenfold.
Rock Out Japanese pop-rock outfit Glay will be performing in Hong Kong for the first time in the “Glay Asia Tour 2013: Justice and Guilty.” 7:30pm. AsiaWorld-Arena, 1 Sky Plaza Rd., Chek Lap Kok. $480-1,080 from www.hkticketing.com.
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Art and the City Browse through the city’s exciting line-up of art fairs this month—and add a piece or two to your collection while you’re at it. By Adele Wong
I
n recent years, Hong Kong’s art scene has grown tremendously and still shows no signs of slowing down. Internationally recognized galleries like the Gagosian and White Cube have opened up spanking new branches in our city, while new local and global art fairs continue to pop up in every corner. May, in particular, is a positively cultural month, with art festivals and events galore. Check out this lengthy list of not-to-be-missed shows.
Modern Interpretations From contemporary concepts to abstract allusions, there’s a piece for everyone here.
Art Basel Hong Kong What used to be known as Art HK has been now rebranded as Art Basel Hong Kong—but whatever you call it, it’s undoubtedly Hong Kong’s number one art event of the year. It’s such an important showcase, in fact, that many other art fairs that you’ll see in the below listings have been organized at around the same time to leverage off the buzz generated from this internationally recognized brand. It consists of four distinct sections: Galleries, featuring works procured by modern and
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contemporary galleries from across the world; Insights, featuring works that are specifially appropriate for the Hong Kong event; Discoveries, featuring emerging artists; and Encounters, featuring sculptures and installations. Art Basel will be open to the public for four full days at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre in Wan Chai. Tickets start from $250 for a single-day entry; there’s also a vernissage, or private viewing, available at $750 per head on May 22, the day before the public viewings. Curious intellectuals can also take part in the various talks and seminars held at the fair during all four days. May 23-26, Hong Kong Convention Centre, 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, www.artbasel.com/ en/Hong-Kong. Tickets available at HK Ticketing, www.hkticketing.com.
Art Basel HK will be held at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre.
Asia Contemporary
Hong Kong Contemporary Another hotel-hosted art fair with a contemporary flair, the Hong Kong Contemporary will take place at The Excelsior a day after Art Basel HK’s opening. Reasonable prices and leisurely viewings are the aims here, and Asian celebrities such as Korean actress Ku Hyesun will be present—not just to look pretty, but to present her own work, of course.
Hong Kong Contemporary
May 24-27, The Excelsior Hotel, 281 Gloucester Rd., Causeway Bay, 2894-8888. Tickets are $50 at the door.
Asia Contemporary Art Show Taking over four floors of the JW Marriott, the second-ever Asia Contemporary Art Show will be showcasing works from emerging and mid-career artists from all over the world. Hong Kong, China, Japan, India, Australia, the United States and Spain are just some of the countries that will have representative artworks and galleries exhibiting at the show. In particular, there will be a strong Chinese contemporary contingent present, with portraits and landscapes by Shangdong-born Ling Jian and Shanghai-based Sanzi featured in various international galleries. May 23-26, JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2810-8366. Tickets start at $120 and are available at www.asiacontemporaryart.com/tickets. may 2013 I WHERE HONG KONG 11
Link Artfair
Link Artfair—Hong Kong Hong Kong Eye Want to know what’s going on in Hong Kong’s homegrown art scene? The second rendition of this touring exhibition (the first one was held in London last December) will be featuring 24 locally based contemporary artists who specialize in everything from drawing and sculpture to video and installation. Abstract media artist Joao Vasco Paiva and Chinese ink specialist Leung Kui-ting are just an example of the talents that will be featured at the month-long Hong Kong Eye.
Hong Kong Eye
May 1-31, ArtisTree, 1/F, Cornwall House, TaiKoo Place, 979 King’s Rd., Quarry Bay, www.hongkongeye.org. Free admission.
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Debuting for the first time in Hong Kong is Link Artfair, an international contemporary art showcase that will be held at China Merchants Wharf in Kennedy Town. After unique showings in Geneva, Milan and Miami, Hong Kong is the first Asian city to continue the tradition. The fair in Hong Kong is endorsed by the Italian ConsulateGeneral, so we’re expecting to see a strong Italian contingent. Besides traditional paintings, street art, gaming art and public art will also be featured. May 24-26, China Merchants Wharf, 18 Sai Ning St., Kennedy Town, www.link-artfair.com. Admission $100.
Asia International Arts & Antiques Fair
Treasure Island Two-hundred year-old teacups more your thing? These antiques fairs will be right up your alley.
Asia International Arts & Antiques Fair Get your fix of buddha statues, bronzes, jade pieces, musical instruments and rare books at the eighth annual Asia International Arts & Antiques Fair in Kowloon Bay. This two-day fair will feature more than 80 exhibitors, and more than 7,000 buyers and fairgoers are expected to attend. On Shun Jewellery, Art Futures Group and Beijing Sanjie Cultural Relics are just some examples of the names that make up the exhibitors list this year. May 24-26, Grand Rotunda, 2-3/F, Kowloon Bay International Trade and Exhibition Centre, 1 Trademart Drive, Kowloon Bay, www.aiaa.com.hk. $50 admission.
Go With the Flow Meet and greet with gallery owners and fellow connoisseurs during a one-night-only open house.
HGAGA Art Night Organized by the Hong Kong Art Galleries Association to coincide with Art Basel, 30 plus of Hong Kong’s galleries from across the city will be opening their doors from 6pm to 10pm on May 20 to welcome art lovers for a leisurely night of browsing. Both Asian and International artists will be showcased, and select galleries will also be hosting educational talks throughout the night. Since the galleries are scattered throughout Hong Kong Island (Sheung Wan, Central, Aberdeen and Kwun Tong), it’s best to plan your trek ahead of time. May 20, Various galleries across the city, check www.hk-aga.org/calendar for details.
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International Antiques Fair Running right after Art Basel HK, the rebranded International Antiques Fair (formerly known as the International Antiques & Arts Expo) will be featuring rare and fancy collectible antiques such as porcelain, ceramics, furniture and timepieces. With demonstrations by Kyoto tea masters and exhibitions from famous watchmakers Jaquet Droz, the fair will be as interactive as it is entertaining. The best bit? Admission is free! May 25-27, Hall 5G, Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai. Free admission.
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the guide
Tap Those Tapas Catalunya is the latest in a spate of upscale tapas joints to invade Hong Kong in recent years. This resto is the Hong Kong branch of the successful Catalunya Singapore, taking up some 7,500 square feet of restaurant and bar space and offering Catalan-style dishes such as roasted suckling pig, lobster rice and esqueixada (salted cod salad). At the helm will be group executive chef Alain Devahive Tolosa, Barcelona-born and El Bulli-trained. G/F, Guardian House, Morrison Hill, 32 Oi Kwan Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-7900.
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Art+Antiques | The Guide
Strong Roots Guangzhou-born artist Leung Kui-ting has been an important figure of the Chinese ink movement since he started painting at the age of 19. Using Chinese ink as the primary medium, Leung’s works integrate traditional ink drawings with modern western painting styles, and span across various media such as sculpture, mixed media art, and installation. He talks to Victoria Wong about his passions and motivations.
Where: Can you tell me more about your background in art? Leung Kui-ting: I have been doing art since 1964 [when Leung was 19]. Since then, I have learned how to draw and paint, specializing in traditional Chinese ink. Over the years, I have experimented with a wide variety of media and styles, including sculpture and mixed media art. After the millennium, however, I returned to using Chinese ink as my primary medium and focused mainly on making traditional ink drawings. W: What made you return to using Chinese ink as your primary medium? LKT: Ink drawing is rooted in Chinese culture, and I want to keep this tradition [alive]. I have been incorporating painting techniques that integrate both traditional Chinese and modern
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western styles, but my methods are rooted in Chinese art. I’m hoping to bring traditional art into modern days. W: Can you tell me more about your works presented at the upcoming Hong Kong Eye exhibition?* LKT: My works include large-scale ink drawings that are usually presented as wall installations. By presenting them on the wall, I am hoping to change the viewer’s interaction with the painting through an aerial presentation. I want to create an illusion of space, as well as a dialogue between the natural environment and what is fabricated. I want to create a space where the audience can be challenged in terms of how we see the world. W: Some of your works include objects from a more modern context. Is there a reason for that?
buildings, to represent urban innovation and to comment on its effect on our lives. By incorporating aspects of modern city life into traditional drawings, I am trying to create a space through my art to foster spiritual dialogue between the natural environment, urban innovations and human growth. Chinese paintings are about nature—the landscape, water, mountains—it has a lot to deal with the natural way of life. The urban environment within the drawing space creates a new realm that allows the audience to question perceptions of reality. It is a dialogue that challenges viewers’ perception of modern and traditional worlds. *Leung’s work will be exhibited at the upcoming Hong Kong Eye exhibition from May 1 to 31 at ArtisTree, 1/F, Cornwall House, Taikoo Place, 979 King's Rd., Quarry Bay.
LKT: In my drawings, I try to incorporate objects with a modern context, such as
You’ll find some of the best art and antique galleries in town along Hong Kong Island’s Hollywood Road.
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Booth No. 3D32
Artists exhibited: Alexander Calder Chen Zhen Chu Teh Chun Jim Dine Hans Hartung Lin Jingjing Joan Mitchell Michelangelo Pistoletto Thomas Shannon Bernar Venet Zao Wou Ki Zhao Jinhe
Gallery exhibition
Auguste Rodin (1840 - 1917) Bronzes: Exceptional Early Casts
In collaboration with Nevill Keating Pictures, Ltd.
May 16 - June 22
2013
Auguste Rodin, Le Penseur (The Thinker), petit modèle, variante avec base arrondie, cast c. 1905, 38 x 21 x 28.4 cm
www.desarthe.com | hongkong@desarthe.com | T.852-21678896 | 8/F Club Lusitano Bldg. 16 Ice House St. Central Hong Kong
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Art+Antiques | The Guide
At a Glance Check out these two not-to-be-missed exhibitions. By Sean Hebert The Orient By Design: An Exhibition of Rare Vintage Asian Posters See the world through the eyes of Indiana Jones, if just for an hour or two. Picture This is the city’s only gallery to specialize in vintage posters, and the collection they’ve put on sale for this exhibition gives us a glimpse into the way Asian products and travel were sold to the world in a bygone era. Ranging from the 1920s through to the 1970s, these colorful and exotic lithograph prints promote everything from Burmese brandy to steamer boats to Peking and French Indochina. Well worth a gander.
serial cartoon. The iconic character represents Song’s understanding of the experience of youth in modern China, weighing the pressures of tradition and social acceptibility against materialism and sexuality. Through May 28. Artify Gallery, 10/F, Block A, Ming Pao Industrial Centre, 18 Ka Yip St., Chai Wan, 2140-9386.
Apr 23-May 4. Picture This Gallery, 13/F, 1308, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2525-2820.
Badgirl: Inflatable Ice-Cream by Song Yang Song Yang is one of the most exciting young artists to come out of China in years, first gaining notoriety for a series of comics he created while in university. He’s an artist, photographer, musician and writer whose works have been featured at home and abroad. In his first solo exhibition in Hong Kong, Artify is displaying 30 all-new drawings and watercolors from his “Badgirl”
Badgirl
Antiques
range of reproduction furniture and accessories in the Chinoiserie style. Shipping available. Shop 248-9, 2/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2537-6370, www.altfield.com.hk.
Altfield Gallery
ALTFIELD GALLERY — One of the first galleries to focus on antique Chinese furniture, Altfield holds eight to 10 exhibitions a year. It deals in Southeast Asian sculpture and decorative arts, antique maps and topographical prints relating to Asia, as well as Chinese, Tibetan and Caucasian carpets. Altfield also produces a 20 W HERE H ONG KONG I maY 2013
ARCH ANGEL ANTIQUES — Known as one of the most reliable antique galleries in Hong Kong. Clients have access to both affordable and museum quality collections from Han and Tang dynasties. The three-story shop also houses large collections of Qing dynasty blue and white porcelain and restored 16th to 18th century Chinese furniture. Rare and authentic stone and bronze sculptures and buddhas, and terracotta sculptures from China and South-Eastern Asia are found in the viewing galleries, plus there are over 200 paintings in the extensive ancestral scroll collection. Open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. 53-55 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-6848, antiques@archangelantiques.com.hk. ARCH ANGEL GALERIE “V” — This large gallery, just across from Arch Angel Antiques, is a must for collectors and connoisseurs
The Orient By Design
interested in early stone sculpture and 16th to 18th century Chinese furniture. These fine early examples are shown in original condition and exquisitely reconditioned by an expert furniture specialist. The gallery owner has been collecting and restoring Chinese furniture since 1985. All items come with certification and unconditional guarantees. 58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-6828, antiques@archangelantiques.com.hk. CHINA ART — This leading restorer and dealer in fine Asian antique furniture and artifacts holds frequent exhibitions and has published two books, “Antiques in the Raw” and “Regional Furniture.” Go to the website to see what’s in stock, then make an appointment to visit the warehouse. Room A-B, 2/F, Casey Aberdeen Center, 20 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Aberdeen, 2542-0982, www.chinaart.com.hk. DRAGON CULTURE — Specializes in dinosaur egg fossils, Han Dynasty terracotta, Tang sculptures and Ming porcelain figures. 231 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2545-8098, www.dragonculture.com.hk.
Art+Antiques JOYCE GALLERY — Specializing in ancient utensils and sculptures from across China, Joyce displays a collection of antiquities dating to the Tang dynasty, including ancient bronzes, stone carvings, gold and silver ware, jade, and pottery. It guarantees its descriptions of the period and history of its items and offers a full refund if the purchased item does not match the description. Shop 1, 123 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2545-1869, www.joycegallery.com.
Lam & Co Antiquities
LAM & CO ANTIQUITIES — An impressive collection of fine Chinese antiquities which ranges from the Neolithic period to the Qing dynasty and includes bronze, gold and silver ware, pottery and porcelain. This shop is well-known by collectors, galleries and auction dealers worldwide and offers repair, restoration,
authentication and shipping services. 44 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2543-8877, www.lamantiquities.com. OI LING ANTIQUES — A renowned dealer in fine Chinese antique furniture and objets d’art, Oi Ling has been featured in major international art exhibitions under the gallery’s previous name, Contes D’Orient. The company operates an outlet in Central, a warehouse in Aberdeen, and a workshop in China where skilled workers restore furniture using traditional techniques. The Hollywood Road showroom houses a large collection of furniture from the 17th and 18th centuries, as well as authenticated pottery items and sculptures dating as far back as the Neolithic era. Repair, restoration and shipping available. 52 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2964-0554, www.oilingantiques.com. WATTIS FINE ART — Specializes in antique maps of Asia, and historical photographs and prints of China, Hong Kong, and Southeast Asia. 2/F, 20 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2524-5302, www.wattis.com.hk.
Galleries 10 CHANCERY LANE GALLERY — Focusing on established and emerging international artists, 10 Chancery Lane consists of three
large gallery spaces. It holds exhibitions of paintings, photographs, installations and videos, as well as performances by renowned artists. G/F, 10 Chancery Lane, SoHo, 2810-0065, www.10chancerylanegallery.com. 5001 Gallery—A young and energetic art gallery, 5001 is dedicated to playing an active part in this new era of Chinese art that is built on 5000 years of history. Collaborating with established and emerging artists, they bring modern and contemporary artworks of diverse media such as painting, sculpture, print, photograph and mix media to the local and international art scene. Main gallery: Suite 44, 8/F, 44 Hollywood Rd., Central. Branch gallery: 1/F, 10 Wellington St., Central, 3483-5001, www.5001gallery.com. AGNèS B. LIBRAIRIE GALERIE — French fashion chain and long-time supporter of the arts, Agnès b. has a contemporary art space dedicated to showing the best from Asia and the world. 1/F, 18 Wing Fung St., Wan Chai, 2869-5505, www.agnesb.com. ALISAN FINE ARTS — This well-established gallery has organized more than 100 exhibitions for Chinese artists from around the world. Run by respected art-world figure Alice King, who
Portrait with Legs, 80 x 80, 2008, oil on canvas
28 Tai Ping Shan Street, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong | Tue - Sun 12:00 - 20:00 | +852 3105 2118 | www.apcontemporary.com
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Art+Antiques | The Guide has worked with the Guggenheim Museum, it also mounts exhibitions for overseas venues. 315 Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2526-1091, www.alisan.com.hk. ARCH ANGEL ART GALLERY — One of Hong Kong’s biggest galleries features an outstanding collection of contemporary Vietnamese oil paintings, acquired directly from the artists. The owners have carefully selected and bought each painting during frequent trips to Vietnam so, contrary to common practice, none of the works are on consignment. Be sure to check out their private stock on nearby Peel Street, featuring a fine collection of 20th-century contemporary paintings from some of Asia’s leading artists. 58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-6882, art@archangelart.com.hk. AP Contemporary— AP Contemporary is dedicated to supporting up-and-coming contemporary artists, especially those from developing countries like Brazil, Russia, India and China. Having said that, European and American talents are also represented at this space. 28 Tai Ping Shan St., Sheung Wan, 3105-2148, www.apcontemporary.com. ART BEATUS — Established in the early 1990s, Art Beatus features mainly original paintings and art by contemporary Chinese artists. Most of its collection has a retro slant, and uses elements of pop, propaganda, illustration and cartoon as vehicles for expression. Has branches in Vancouver and on Queen’s Road Central. G/F, 35 Graham St., Central, 2522-1138, www.artbeatus.com. ASIA FINE ART — Dedicated to promoting young Asian artists at affordable prices, this gallery has regular exhibitions of work from China, Vietnam and Burma for sale on site and online. 12 Sik On St., Wan Chai (entrance at 99 Queen’s Rd. East), 2522-0405, www.asia-fineart.com. ASIA SOCIETY HONG KONG — Asia Society Hong Kong's big, brand-spankin’-new headquarters are in a beautifully refurbished former storehouse for British artillery and ammunition. Playing host to a myriad of lectures, exhibitions, performances, film screenings, tours, seminars and conferences—97 percent of which are open to the public—the Asia Society is a literal treasure trove. Closed Mondays. 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2103-9511, www.asiasociety.org/hong-kong. BEN BROWN FINE ARTS — After 10 years at Sotheby’s and two more at a private gallery, Ben Brown and his wife sought to create a space that housed pieces reflective of their tastes—primarily on European modern and contemporary artworks. 301 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2522-9600, www.benbrownfinearts.com. THE CAT STREET GALLERY — Showcasing contemporary and modern art in a variety of mediums, Cat Street exhibits emerging and established artists from around the world. 222 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2291-0006, www.thecatstreetgallery.com. 22 W HERE H ONG KONG I MAY 2013
CONNOISSEUR ART GALLERY — Specializing in contemporary Chinese fine art since 1989, Connoisseur features such acclaimed artists as Paris-based Jia Juan-li, renowned Guangzhou artist Zhang Da-zhong and still life artist Liu Ying-zhao. Shop G3, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2868-5358, www.connoisseur-art.com.
HANART TZ GALLERY — A specialist in contemporary Chinese art, Hanart has exhibited works in oil, ink, print, sculpture, photography and video by mainland, Taiwanese and Hong Kong artists. It offers a wide selection and prices that accommodate almost everyone. 202 Henley Building, 5 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2526-9019, www.hanart.com.
CONNOISSEUR CONTEMPORARY — This contemporary gallery seeks to identify new and emerging talents as well as those deserving of more space and recognition. Expect to find a wide range of genres and styles from around the world. Shop G4, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 3521-0300, www.connoisseurcontemporary.com
GALERIE KOO — Focusing on contemporary art, Galerie Koo features both western and Chinese emerging and established artists who deliver a variety of contemporary works in media from painting to photography. 1/F, 68-70 Wellington St., Central, 2525-0331, www.galeriekoo.com.
CONTEMPORARY BY ANGELA LI — Perhaps best known for introducing Chinese artists Chen Jiagang and Liao Yibai to the art world, CBAL boasts a lovely space and a carefully curated exhibition program. G/F, 248 Hollywood Rd., Central, 3571-8200, www.cbal.com.hk. DE SARTHE GALLERY — Specializing in the sale of 19th and 20th century masters, previous exhibitions have shown the works of art world greats such as Miro, Picasso and Chu Teh-chun, just to name a few. First opening in Paris in 1977 and branching out across the U.S. and Europe, de Sarthe finally opened its first Asian outpost in Hong Kong in 2011. 8/F, 16 Ice House St., Central, 2167-8896, desarthe.com. ESPACE LOUIS VUITTON — LV has been invading gallery spaces for the past half decade, stirring unrest in the hearts of hard-line art critics but appreciation in the eyes of those beholders who’re able to look past reservations about brand-name commercialism. Espace Louis Vuitton, Louis Vuitton Mansion, 5 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 8100-1182. GAGOSIAN GALLERY — With 12 galleries and counting, the famed Gagosian has chosen Hong Kong as its gateway to Asia. They opened their doors in January 2011 with a bang, featuring an all-new exhibition by Damien Hirst—Gagosian only exhibits the crème-de-la-crème of the art world. 7/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2151-0555, www.gagosian.com. GALERIE DU MONDE — Galerie du Monde hosts exhibitions by Chinese artists including Li Shuang, Le Longyao, Yu Xiaohui, Hon Chifun and Pan Xun. Its conservation studio provides a complete restoration service for works of art on paper and canvas. Shop 108, 1/F, Ruttonjee Center, 11 Duddell St., Central, 2525-0529, www.galeriedumonde.com. GROTTO FINE ART — Curated by Henry Auyeung, a specialist in 20th-century Chinese art history, this gallery represents local artists, with an interest in new and avant-garde art forms. You’ll find paintings, sculptures, prints and photography, mixed-media and installation pieces. 2/F, 31C Wyndham St., Central, 2121-2270, www.grottofineart.com.
Opera Gallery
Lehmann Maupin Gallery — With the original branch in New York and with its reputation of supporting contemporary art and culture, the Lehmann Maupin Gallery will be opening its doors here on March 14. Architect Rem Koolhas designed the gallery, making sure to keep the historic columns in the Pedder Building intact. Female Korean artist Lee Bul will open with an exhibit featuring paintings and 3D sculptures using all sorts of media and materials. 407 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central.2530-0025, hongkong@lehmanmaupin.com. OPERA GALLERY — Opera Gallery features works by world-famous international artists, including Picasso, Chagall, Salvador Dali, Renoir and Chinese painter Ting Shao Kuang, among others. 2-8 Wellington St., Central, 2810-1208, www.operagallery.com. Puerta Roja — Puerta Roja was established to promote Latin American art and artists to the Hong Kong audience. Drawings, etchings, glasswork and sculptures are all featured here. Shop A, G/F, Wai Yue Building, 15-17 New St., Sai Ying Pun, 2803-0332. PICTURE THIS — The city’s largest affordable art gallery specializes in posters, antique maps, prints and early photographs of Hong Kong and China. It also carries antiquarian and secondhand books about Asia, first editions of modern literature, prints and photographs for children’s rooms, and sporting prints. Suite 1308, 13/F, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2525-2820, www.picturethiscollection.com. PLUM BLOSSOMS GALLERY — Recognized for its exhibitions of contemporary Asian art as well as an outstanding collection of museumquality ancient textiles, Plum Blossoms is an established platform for the promotion of both ancient and modern arts. Shop G6, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2521-2189, www.plumblossoms.com.
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Red Square Gallery — Red Square Gallery is a window into Contemporary Russian Art. Expanding into four branches, the gallery is dedicated to bringing creative and dynamic artwork to Hong Kong. Shop 2, 1A Wong Nai Chung Rd., Happy Valley. 2838-0040, www.redsquare-gallery.com. Rouge Ephemere—Rouge Ephemere is a new gallery on Hollywood Road by French natives Françoise Thuriere and Yves Azemar, showcasing a selection of artworks which are not commonly found in Hong Kong’s art scene. Japanese raku ceramics, metal and wood sculpture as well as jewelry and vintage prints from international artists such as Christine Cloos, Diane Truti and Maud Lelievre can all be found here. Flat B, 1/F, 89 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2323-2394, www.facebook.com/ RougeEphemere. SAAMLUNG GALLERY — Expect a variety of contemporary works in media from painting to photography by both regional and international artists. 26/F, Two Chinachem Plaza, 68 Connaught Rd. Central, 5181-5156, www.saamlung.com. SHIN HWA GALLERY — Focusing on Asian contemporary art, Shin Hwa features both upcoming and established artists. It is particularly committed to innovative Chinese artists. G/F, 32 Aberdeen St., Central, 2803-7960, www.shinhwagallery.com.
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White Cube
WHITE CUBE — One of the world’s top contemporary galleries opened its first nonUK outpost in Hong Kong in March of 2012. The gallery represents many members of the Young British Artists (YBA) movement, who are known for their shock factor, confrontational nature and use of disposable materials—for instance, Damien Hirst’s famous dead shark suspended in formaldehyde. 50 Connaught Rd. Central, 2592-2000, www.whitecube.com. ZEE STONE GALLERY — Zee Stone, established in 1991, exhibits a wide range of contemporary artists from mainland China, using both ink and color on paper and oil on canvas. The gallery’s exhibitions reflect the rich diversity of contemporary Chinese art, including abstract landscapes, realistic portraits, paintings on rice paper by traditionally trained Chinese masters and new work by a younger generation in acrylic and mixed media. G/F, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2810-5895, www.zeestone.com.
Museums FLAGSTAFF HOUSE MUSEUM OF TEAWARE — Located in Flagstaff House, the oldest surviving colonial building in the territory, and once the home of the commander-in-chief of British 24 W HERE H ONG KONG I maY 2013
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forces in Hong Kong, the museum houses a prized Asian teaware collection. It’s also home to Lock Cha Tea House, which serves myriad varieties of tea and delicate vegetarian dim sum in a cute Chinese-style setting. Closed Tue. 10 Cotton Tree Drive, Hong Kong Park, Central, 2869-0690, www.hk.art.museum.
Hong Kong Heritage Museum
HONG KONG HERITAGE MUSEUM — This modern museum is devoted to preserving the city’s historical, art and cultural heritage. It features permanent exhibitions on the New Territories, Cantonese opera and a Children’s Discovery Gallery. Closed Tue & public holidays. 1 Man Lam Rd., Sha Tin, 2180-8188, www.hk.heritage.museum. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF ART — One of the city’s largest museums houses fine examples of ancient Chinese art from the Han to the Qing dynasties. The exhibition galleries regularly showcase contemporary and international works, including major traveling exhibitions from world-class museums. 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-0116, www.hk.art.museum. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF HISTORY — This fascinating museum explores 6,000 years of Hong Kong history, from the Neolithic to the post-war period, with recreations of prehistoric scenes and the early colonial era. It’s the reconstruction of a street that really grabs your attention. Closed Tue. 100 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-9042, www.hk.history.museum. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF MEDICAL SCIENCES — Located in an elegant brick building, this museum charts the development of medicine in the city. It was the first to focus on both Western and traditional Chinese approaches to healthcare. Along with a display of herbs and remedies, there is antique apothecary equipment. Closed Mon. 2 Caine Lane, Mid-Levels, 2549-5123, www.hkmms.org.hk. LAW UK FOLK MUSEUM — Law Uk, which means “Law’s House” after its original owner, is an 18th-century, Qing-dynasty Hakka village house, complete with furnishings and artifacts. It is the sole remaining architectural example of its kind in Chai Wan. Free admission. Closed Thu. 14 Kut Shing St., Chai Wan, 2896-7006, www.hk.history.museum. LEI CHENG UK HAN TOMB MUSEUM — Housing a 2,000-year-old tomb with four chambers, this is one of the city’s most fascinating monuments. Discovered in 1955, it now has an adjacent gallery that features 58 items excavated during the construction of the Lei Cheng Uk Resettlement Area. Closed Thu. 41 Tonkin St., Sham Shui Po, 2386-2863, www.hk.history.museum. MaY 2013 I WHERE HONG KONG 25
Art & AntiqueS
To get listed on this page, email advertising@asia-city.com.hk or call 2850-5678.
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Sundaram Tagore 57-59 Hollywood Road Central, Hong Kong tel +852-2581-9678 www.sundaramtagore.com Connoisseur Art Gallery was established in 1989 and has more than twenty years of experience in the art industry. With a total of three galleries in Hong Kong, it enjoys the unique reputation of being one of the most important and influential art galleries in Asia. The flagship gallery in Hong Kong specializes in Chinese figurative fine art while its sister galleries are dedicated to showcasing original and innovative works by the most talented, new generation contemporary artists from China and East Asia.
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Shop G3, Chinachem Hollywood Centre 1 Hollywood Road Tel: (852)2868-5358 gallery@connoisseur-art.com
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Since making a commitment in 1992 to bring Contemporary Chinese Art to Hong Kong and overseas, the Schoeni Art Gallery has blazed a trail in promoting the best contemporary Chinese artists. We are recognised globally as an established platform from which contemporary artists emerge into the art scene and have steadily nurtured an artistic environment in which international interest in the Chinese contemporary artistic scene has grown to unparalleled heights.
Schoeni Art Gallery
Main Gallery: 21-31 Old Bailey Street, Central, Hong Kong Branch Gallery: 27 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong Tel (852) 2869 8802 Fax (852) 2522 1528 gallery@schoeni.com.hk www.schoeniartgallery.com Mon-Sat 10.30 – 18.30 Closed on Sunday and Public Holidays 26 W HERE H ONG KONG maY 2013
Shop Stop G Wattis Fine Art, specialist antique dealers focusing on China and East Asia – Paintings, Prints, Photographs, Books and Maps. For over twenty years we have put together many collections and exhibitions about the fascinating cities and countries of this part of the world, showing the features of early Macau, Canton, Hong Kong, Shanghai and Peking, and the development of contacts and trade with China from the sixteenth century.
Wattis Fine Art
2/F, 20 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2524-5302, www.wattis.com.hk Mon-Sat 10:30am - 6:00pm
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Empyrean embraces different types of Chinese art from Neolithic period up to the Ming Dynasty. Specializing in early pottery, bronze, stone sculpture, ceramics and porcelain, this is the place for authenticity: pieces are tested and authenticated by Oxford Authentication Ltd. With 20 years of experience, Empyrean is a perfect place to pick up a piece of history.
Empyrean Fine Chinese Antiques
g/f, 70 hollywood road, central, hong kong tel (852) 2559 7338 fax (852) 2559 8256 info@empyrean-antiques.com www.empyrean-antiques.com
ARCH ANGEL ANTIQUES Internationally respected, and serious about authenticity, the Groot family has spent two decades creating this gallery. Home to large
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collection to terracotta, porcelain, early furniture and antiquities, and all important terracotta items have Oxford thermo-
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Daily 9:30am-6:30pm. 53-55 Hollywood Road, Central, 2851-6848
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OPERA GALLERY Opera Gallery features works by world-famous international artists, including Picasso, Chagall, Salvador Dali, Renoir and Chinese painter Ting Shao Kuang, among others. 52 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-1208, www.operagallery.com.
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dining | The Guide
Brewing Up a Storm Enjoy a cup of specialty brew at these oh-so-cool teahouses. By Kiki Elijandy
Sinmei
TWG
Eslite
Teavers
Harbour Pearl
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recent wave of trendy tea shops in even trendier locales has got us ditching our java for a groovy cuppa chai instead. Whether you’re partial to pu-erh or eager for Earl Grey, there’s a cafe in this list that will—excuse the pun— be just your cup of tea.
Formosa Flavors
Pure Indulgence
Harbour Pearl is a cool new tea cafe on up-and-coming Sai Street in Sheung Wan. Taiwanese-native Ini Tsai established the brand last year to introduce high quality teas to the local crowd. Claiming to be the city’s first organic Taiwanese tea retailer, Harbour Pearl’s menu includes a distinct selection of varieties like organic Taiwan premium green tea, oolong tea and the unusual ruby black tea, which is a hybrid species of the native Taiwanese mountain tea and Burmese Assam plant. Together, the two combine to make a rich, hearty tea with a dose of cinnamon and mint flavors. Served in deluxe Royal Albert teaware, each pot comes with a lavish $80 price tag.
As Asia’s first international luxury tea brand, TWG prides itself on having the largest tea list in the world, with 800 different single estate harvests as well as exclusive blends. From distinctive matured teas like the Chinese pu-erh to unusual blue teas like the royal orchid variety, the group sources from every tea-producing country imaginable, including more exotic countries like Turkey and Georgia. This season, TWG was able to release the 2013 harvest of a rare yinzhen (or “silver needle” in Mandarin) white tea blended with fragrant flowers. Yinzhen tea leaves are grown in Fujian Province in China and are generally very highly prized by connoisseurs.
38 Sai St., Sheung Wan, 2851-2886.
TWG, 1/F, IFC Mall, Shop 1022-1023, 8 Finance St., Central, 2796-2828.
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The Great Escape
The Eslite Tea Room, smack in the middle of the namesake book shop at Hysan Place, is a welcome retreat from the hustle and bustle of CWB. Eslite’s Taiwan high-mountain oolong tea is definitely a must-try. We were told that this tea is grown in a low-temperature region with less access to sunlight, which gives it a uniquely sweet scent and rich flavor. Hediard Tea, meanwhile, is the soul of Eslite’s western brews. The brand has been serving tea at Place de la Madeleine in Paris since the 19th century, with their premium offerings endorsed by society elites and royal families alike. 9/F, Hysan Place, 500 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 3419-6770.
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Back to Basics
If you are looking for a place to learn about tea, definitely drop by Teavers. Teavers’ tea ambassadors believe in the importance of drinking the right type of tea at the right time. For example, in the morning you might want to start off with a brew of steaming black tea to keep the energy levels high. In the late afternoon, a cup of green tea might just do the trick of keeping you refreshed. Then a dose of low-caffeine pu-erh after dinner can help with digestion. Once you choose your tea, it’ll be served in a special perforated metal foil tube that’s supposed to give the drinker a satisfying loose-leaf tea experience, but with all the convenience of a tea bag. Shop GB22, Site B, Lei King Wan, 45 Tai Hong St., Sai Wan Ho, 2350-3828.
Seeing Green
With prior experience running a teahouse in London and a general passion for tea, Sinmei finally invested all of her love and knowledge into her first eponymously named tea café in Hong Kong. The café is spacious, with natural light that beams in through a floor-to-ceiling window. Sinmei sources only green teas grown mostly in Taiwan, China and Japan, and we especially recommend the Matcha Soul, one of the shop’s best sellers. Sinmei makes this green cup of joy with organic soymilk and tops it with dribbles of honey, almond slices, sweetened sultanas and crushed cinnamon flowers. The lady recommends matching a cup of Matcha Soul with an Australian shortbread-textured pastry called the yo-yo.
NO RULES, JUST RIGHT. ‘GO OUTBACK’ TONIGHT!
5/F, CS Tower, 50 Wing Lok St., Sheung Wan, 3690-8238.
Cool Chai
Owner Nana Chan picked hipsterfriendly Tai Ping Shan Street to set up shop specifically for its laid-back, relaxed, neighborhood vibe. “It’s funny because it feels so un-Hong Kong and yet uniquely Hong Kong at the same time,” she says. Sourcing teas mainly from within Asia, Teakha serves organic tea using traditional and artisanal methods. Teakha’s extensive menu stretches from Chinese and Japanese teas to more exotic herbal teas, as well as different types of milk teas. Teakha’s bestseller? The masala chai, by far. Shop B, 18 Tai Ping Shan St., Sheung Wan, 2858-9185.
Causeway Bay 2/F, JP Plaza, 22-36 Paterson St. Reservations: 2881 8012 Wanchai 1/F, De Fenwick, 8-12 Fenwick St. Reservations: 3101 0418
www.outback.com.hk
Whampoa Shop 3A, G/F, Site 4, Whampoa Garden, Hunghom Reservations: 2766 2823
Tuen Mun Tsuen Wan
Whampoa Tsim Sha Tsui Wanchai
Tsim Sha Tsui East Taikoo Causeway Bay
Tsim Sha Tsui Shop 1, Level 2, 26 Nathan Rd. Reservations: 3741 1728
Tsim Sha Tsui East Shops 23-28, Upper Ground Floor, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd. Reservations: 2311 7800 Tsuen Wan Shops 3-5, Level 2, Discovery Park Shopping Centre, 398 Castle Peak Rd. Reservations: 2940 0682 Taikoo Shops G9-G10, G/F, Kornhill Plaza, 1 Kornhill Rd. Reservations: 2560 8246 Tuen Mun Shop 2016-2017, 2/F, Phase 1, Tuen Mun Town Plaza Reservations: 2426 3918
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dining | The Guide Amber
Go Gourmet Various restaurants in the city will be offering special deals for Le French Gourmay, the wine-anddine subset of Le French May (See page 6 for details). Here are our top three picks.
touch. New dishes Fleur de Se l include fricassée snails with mushrooms, bacon and spinach in a white wine sauce, as well as pan-fried tofu and Emmental cheese with baby spinach and sundried tomatoes. May 1-June 30. 51D Graham St., Central, 2645-9828, or Shop 2J, Po Foo Building, Foo Ming St., Causeway Bay.
Chez Patrick Restaurant Amber
Culinary director Richard Ekkebus’ fivecourse menu features super-delicate milk-fed lamb as its main star. Lamb sweetbreads served with crispy poached lamb tongue, smoked Cantabrique anchovy, green asparagus and caviar sound tempting, as does the lamb saddle with Hokkaido sea urchin, organic lemon
Admiralty DAN RYAN’S — American. $$$ With mammoth meat platters and massive potato skins, Dan Ryan’s prides itself on Chicago-style chow. Shop 114, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2845-4600. METROPOL — Dim sum. $ Beef balls, steamed shrimp dumplings, pork-and-shrimp dumplings, stuffed rice rolls and other Hong Kong specialties are wheeled around in traditional trolleys for an authentic dim sum experience. 3/F, United Centre, 95 Queensway, Admiralty, 2865-1988. NICHOLINI’S — Italian. $$$$ Hands down the best Sunday brunch around. It gets kudos from honest-to-goodness Italians, and that’s good enough for us. 8/F, Conrad International Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2521-3838. PETRUS — French. $$$$ This place can best be equated with a fine wine: expensive but so pleasing to the palate that it’s worth the money. The décor is a bit ostentatious, but the opulence suits the magnificent view. 56/F, Island ShangriLa, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2820-8590.
Causeway Bay IPPUDO — Ramen. $ Japan’s famous chain serves ramen in bowls so enormous they should be called cauldrons, with a meaty, savory broth, tender pork pieces, springy noodles and tangy spring onions topped with fungus and bean sprouts. They also have a signature mini BBQ pork bun, which is a little two-bite sandwich of porcine heaven. 2/F, 8 Russell St., 2892-2387. MANGO TREE — Thai. $$-$$$ Somehow, in the middle of bustling Causeway Bay, in a high-rise chock-full of other restaurants and bars, Mango Tree manages to be an oasis of dim lighting,
30 W HERE H ONG KONG maY 2013
hollandaise, salicornia and smoked butter mousse. May 1-31. The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2132-0066.
Fleur de Sel
This modern crêperie is introducing new recipes from head chef Gregory Alexandre, with a little bit of the Burgundy
carefully placed flowers and good Thai food. 5/F, Cubus, 1 Hoi Ping Rd., Causeway Bay, 2577-0828. Sorabol — Korean. $$ The smell wafting from the open barbecues in the middle of each table will get your appetite going—which is a good thing, since you’ll want to try everything. 17/F, Lee Theatre Plaza, 99 Percival St., 2881-6823. Tott’s — Modern Asian/Western. $$$-$$$$ Sophisticated décor, harbor-view seats, and perfectly crafted entrees are the hallmark here. The attentive service also deserves special mention. 34/F, The Excelsior, 281 Gloucester Rd., 2837-6786. TYCOON (JUI HO HEEN) — Hotpot. $$$-$$$$ You’d think dunking meat into boiling soup couldn’t get too elegant, but this stylish take on the traditional hotpot joint takes it to the next level. The dunkable delicacies are where it really gets fancy—fresh fish, lobster, crab, even Wagyu beef. 20-22 Tang Lung St., 2893-1884.
Central & Lan Kwai Fong AMBER — Modern French. $$$$ Modern, inventive French cuisine meets attention-grabbing decor. 7/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2132-0066. CAPRICE — French. $$$$ Three Michelin Stars. Splurge on haute cuisine at this French restaurant staffed by chefs formerly of Le Cinq in Paris. The gorgeous interior includes floor-toceiling windows. Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 3196-8860. FOURTH FLOOR — European. $$$ Innovative restaurant with creative cuisine and funky, contemporary surrounds. The menu is modern European, the wine list classic and the crowd well dressed. Harvey Nichols, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3695-3388.
Executive chef and founder Patrick Goubier has designed a Burgundy menu especially for le French GourMay. Priced at $500, the four-course menu will start with organic snail terrine, capers and diced tomato dressing, and a poached pear with red wine, cinnamon and star anise to finish off. Bon appetit! May 1-31. 2/F Garden East, 222 Queens’ Rd. East, Wan Chai, 2541-1401, www.chezpatrick.hk.
Frites — Belgian. $$$-$$$$ This Belgian beer hall is everything you’d expect—cheerful, beercentric, with high-end pub fare. Roasted meats, stews, mussels and of course the titular frites are all on offer. Shop 1-2, 1/F, Queen’s Palace, 74 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2179-5179. INAGIKU — Japanese. $$$ The Hong Kong branch of one of Japan’s oldest and best-known restaurants, it lives up to the buzz: authentic, delicious and quiveringly fresh. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 2805-0600. ISLAND TANG — Cantonese. $$$$ Shanghai Tang founder David Tang’s art-deco dining space is a welcome bright spot amid Central’s modern office towers, with top local cuisine to match. Shop 222, 2/F, The Galleria, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2526-9798. ISOLA BAR & GRILL — Italian. $$$$ The glam factor is off the scale, with stunning harbor views and high ceilings, not to mention handmade pastas, pizzas, risottos and more. Shop 3071-75 & 4011, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., 2383-8765. L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON — French. $$$$ The Frenchman named “Chef of the Century” by Gault Millau designs authentic dishes with exquisite finesse and precision, which are then turned out by highly trained chefs in the open kitchen. Shop 401, 4/F, The Landmark, 2166-9000. LIN HEUNG — Cantonese. $$ The setup has changed little in more than 50 years and it still remains a popular hangout for those craving a bit of old Hong Kong nostalgia and really, really good food. Most people come here for daytime dim sum, but dinner’s good, too. 160-164 Wellington St., Central, 2544-4556. LUNG KING HEEN — Cantonese. $$$-$$$$ Three Michelin Stars. The name means “view of the dragon” and the floor-to-ceiling windows make the case. Stylish décor, flawless service
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dining | The Guide and traditional as well as innovative dishes only add to the appeal. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 3196-8888. pierre — French. $$$$ Masterminded by threeMichelin-star chef Pierre Gagnaire, this is a bastion of fine French dining. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd., 2825-4001.
Repulse Bay SPICES — Pan-Asian. $$$ Below a glassy highrise, this restaurant is devoted to showcasing the “fabled ingredients of the exotic food of the East.” It also offers a fantastic view of the South China Sea and the sandy shores below. Repulse Bay Hotel, 109 Repulse Bay Rd., 2292-2821. THE VERANDAH — Continental/International. $$$ Book brunch in time to get a seat at this popular spot. On other days, the a la carte menu never disappoints. Closed Mon. The Repulse Bay Hotel, 109 Repulse Bay Rd., 2292-2822.
SoHo
Sevva
SEVVA — Contemporary. $$$$ The brainchild of local socialite Bonnie Gokson, this 22,000-square-foot penthouse restaurant comes with a buzzing wraparound terrace. The elegant eatery serves dishes drawn from Cantonese, Shanghainese, Indian and British culinary concepts. 25/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., 2537-1388. WOOLOOMOOLOO — Australian/New Zealand. $$$ This steakhouse is several places at once: a laid-back wine bar and a casual drinksand-dinner scene on the ground floor, and a fine-dining, open-kitchen restaurant on the first. G/F-1/F, Onfem Tower, 29 Wyndham St., 2894-8010.
JASHAN — Indian. $$ Immediately impressive, with dim lighting, vermilion walls and colonial furnishings, Jashan offers an extensive menu, delicious food and hotel-level service. 1/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., 3105-5300. LA TERRASSE WINE BAR & RESTAURANT— French. $$$ This small place has all the trappings of fine, intimate dining. The service is attentive, the wine list good and the food outstanding. Closed Sun. 19 Old Bailey St., 2147-2225. POSTO PUBBLICO — Italian. $$$ Hip Greenwich Village types come to get their fill of such dishes as veal meatballs and “Brooklyn Special” sandwiches of homemade mozzarella, eggplant and lashings of balsamic vinegar. 28 Elgin St., 2577-7160.
Yardbird
ZUMA — Japanese. $$$$ This is one good-looking restaurant, split over two floors and linked by a sumptuous staircase. It’s the local branch of London’s famed eatery, offering a sophisticated twist on the traditional izakaya. 5-6/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3657-6388.
YARDBIRD — Yakitori. $$$ This is a no-frills yet achingly modern two-story yakitori joint in a trendy corner of the district. The skewers are all chicken-based, and taken from every part of the chicken’s body from the heart to the skin. Don’t forget to sample the house sake. 33-35 Bridges St., Sheung Wan, 2547-9273.
HuTong
HUTONG — Northern Chinese. $$$$ Dark wood furnishings and a fabulous harbor view make for a modern-day Chinese dining hall. The food is beautifully presented northern Chinese haute cuisine. 28/F, 1 Peking Rd., 3428-8342.
NOBU — Japanese. $$$$ Mind-blowingly artistic in presentation, design and execution, this famous restaurant deserves the hype. Sushi is a must, as is the amazing black cod. 2/F, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., 2721-1211.
Spoon
Angelini
ANGELINI — Italian. $$$-$$$$ With Italian native Marco Medaglia at the helm, Angelini serves up unpretentious food, with an emphasis on seafood 32 W HERE H ONG KONG maY 2013
FOOK LAM MOON — Cantonese. $$$$ Devotees swear this place serves the best Cantonese cuisine in the world. It’s been the place to go for southern Chinese delicacies for more than five decades. 55 Kimberley Rd., 2366-0286.
Tsim Sha Tsui
The Peak THE PEAK LOOKOUT — International. $$$ Offering an alfresco terrace with a view of the city, this restaurant features an open, bright and airy environment—more like a mountain lodge than a country club—and excellent fare. 121 Peak Rd., 2849-1000.
FELIX — Fusion. $$$$ Still one of the swankiest restaurants in town, with Philippe Starck décor, modern food and famous bathrooms. It’s glam, contemporary and kid-free. 28/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, 2315-3188.
MORTON’S OF CHICAGO — Steak. $$$$ With huge slabs of prime, aged beef accompanied by what looks like the winning entries in a hard-fought vegetable show, Morton’s is one of the best steak restaurants in Hong Kong. 4/F, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers, 20 Nathan Rd., 2732-2343.
YELLOW DOOR KITCHEN — Sichuan. $$ Hong Kong’s first private kitchen, this favorite has been serving up fiery Sichuan cuisine since the early 1990s. 6/F, 37 Cochrane St., 2858-6555.
Zuma
and ingredients air-freighted from Italy three times a week. Also has a great harbor view. Kowloon Shangri-La, 64 Mody Rd., 2733-8750.
SPOON — French. $$$$ Michelin-starred chef Alain Ducasse’s restaurant has floorto-ceiling windows, a fabulous harbor view and a pick-and-mix menu that gives you room to be creative. InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., 2313-2256. T’ANG COURT — Cantonese. $$$$ This little gem serves some of the city’s finest Cantonese cuisine. 1/F, Langham Hotel, 8 Peking Rd., 2375-1133.
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Whisk — Modern European. $$$ Try the innovative, flawlessly presented dishes at this special eatery. 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., 2315-5999. YE SHANGHAI — Shanghainese. $$$ With upscale cuisine served in shareable portions, this is the place for Shanghainese dishes such as camphor-smoked duck with pancakes. Also known for its interior full of fabulous chinoiserie. 6/F, The Marco Polo Hong Kong Hotel, 3 Canton Rd., 2376-3322.
Wan Chai
Bo Innovation
BO INNOVATION — Asian. $$$-$$$$ Experimental cuisine pairing local ingredients with delicacies imported from across the world. Shop 13, 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Rd., 2850-8371.
Cepace
CéPAGE — European. $$$$ There are just 56 seats for maximum privacy—and exclusivity, of course. Dishes are intricately prepared, including their caviar on petals of potato salad with herbs, and their grilled amadai with vin jaune and black truffle. Be warned: Cépage is toe-curlingly expensive, but hey, you might spot a tycoon or two. 23 Wing Fung St., Wan Chai, 2861-3130. Grand Hyatt Steakhouse — Steak. $$$$ This classic steakhouse serves up mouthwatering prime cuts of beef from the US, Canada and Japan, and also boasts a seafood and oyster bar, extensive salad bar, wine room and cigar tasting room. 2/F, Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2584-7722. MADAM SIXTY EIGHT — European. $$$ At this posh eclectic eatery, an open kitchen faces the diners, with chefs readying exquisitely prepared dishes scurrying around. 1/F, The Podium, J Senses, 60 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2527-2558. THE PAWN — British. $$$ Serving fabulous food in a faithful restoration of an 1888 landmark building, The Pawn houses a bar and a restaurant with a roof and a breezy balcony overlooking Johnston Road. The menu has modern British fare with a luxurious twist. 62 Johnston Rd., 2866-3444. 34 W HERE H ONG KONG maY 2013
Taste of the city special advertising section
Spice features the
Enjoy a COMPLIMENTARY DESSERT with this ad
“Bollywood and Belly Dance Night’’,
a regular performance by two belly dancers, held every Thursday at 8:30pm .
* for dine-in and a la carte menu only We provide fine Thai, Indian and Malay cuisine with good selection of fine wines. Come experience our flavours of coriander, cumin, chili and lemongrass. Spice up your evening with friends!
Our chefs have also come up with a special menu to swing and sway to the diners’ delight of this groovy atmosphere.
www.spice-restaurant.hk 2/F, No.1 Knutsford Terrace, Tsim Sha Tsui, Tsim Sha Tsui Kowloon. Reservations: 2191 9880 / 2191 9886 Daily Opening Hours: Lunch: Mon – Sun 12nn – 3pm Dinner: Sun – Thu 6pm – 11pm Fri – Sat 6pm – 11:30pm
maY 2013 I WHERE HONG KONG 35
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nightlife | The Guide
On Top of the World You can never get bored of the dazzling Hong Kong skyline. Here are some open-air, rooftop bars to admire the cityscape with a drink or two in hand.
Eyebar Located on the 30th floor of iSquare, Eyebar follows the nautical theme of its adjoining restaurant, Nanhai No. 1, and offers uninterrupted views of the skyline from its outdoor alfresco deck. While you enjoy a drink from Eyebar’s exotic cocktail menu, you can munch on complimentary spicy nuts and Sichuan peppered lotus root chips. If you’re feeling extra peckish, you can also order barbecued seafood snacks from the open kitchen. A cool feature on the outdoor terrace is a telescope that allows you to spot major landmarks. Heads up: If you would like a seat with a view, there’s a minimum charge of $500 per head. 30/F, iSquare, 63 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2487-3988.
Café Gray Deluxe
Sugar
Mamoz
Giving off an aura of sophistication and understated glam, Café Gray Deluxe is the epitome of elegance on the 49th floor of the Upper House. A glamorous 46 foot-long bar takes center stage, serving delectable appetizers and colorfully named cocktails. Try the Earl Gray martini, Hong Kong Highball or Grapefruit Julep. The extensive variety of wines on the menu makes this the perfect spot for some serious drinks. And of course, the harbor view is pretty awesome.
The stunning skyline and harbor view make Sugar the perfect setting for a relaxing, drawn-out weekend. Located on the 32nd floor of the East Hotel, Sugar comes with hi-tech glowing walls and a spacious outdoor deck. Check out a different side of Hong Kong’s skyline here, with North Point, Quarry Bay and Tai Tam on the island’s east end taking center stage. Apart from your standard drinks, Sugar also offers sparkling wines, cocktails and mocktails.
49/F, The Upper House Hotel, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106, www.cafegrayhk.com.
32/F, East Hotel, 29 Tai Koo Shing Rd., Tai Koo, 3968-3738, www.sugar-hongkong.com.
Offering great city views of Hong Kong Island, Mamoz is a cool cocktail bar in busy Causeway Bay. Stylishly decorated with large windows and dim lighting, it’s no surprise that Mamoz is a popular spot every night of the week. Check out the drinks from the innovative cocktail menu, or use the entertaining tasting graph that helps you pick your drinks based on your preferences of sweet, sour, rich or fresh. For those with acrophobia (a fear of heights), beware of the glass floors that give you a very literal bird’s eye view.
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27/F-28/F, Cubus, 1 Hoi Ping Road, Causeway Bay, 2890-3182.
For weekly event listings, pick up a free copy of HK Magazine (available at most bars, restaurants and coffee shops).
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Felix Everyone knows about Felix at The Peninsula in Tsim Sha Tsui. Noted for its avant-garde interior and white and chic décor, it’s the perfect place to admire spectacular views of the harbor. 28/F, The Peninsula Hong Kong, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2696-6778.
Aqua Spirit Aqua is still one of the best places in Kowloon side to sit back and enjoy the view. Situated at the very top of One Peking, this dark and sophisto space is a place to see and be seen. The funky drinks menu has a number of signature cocktails. 30/F, Penthouse, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288.
Ozone Located on the 118th floor of the tallest hotel in the world, Ozone takes the title of highest bar in Hong Kong. On a good day, you’ll be able to enjoy a spectacular view of the Hong Kong skyline. The outdoor terrace is the perfect place to take in the view and chill with a group. 118/F, The Ritz-Carlton Hotel, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2270.
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nightlife | The Guide Bars & Clubs
18/F, The One, 100 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-6222. DRAGON BAR — The kitschy-chic bar sits betwixt the equally droll west and east dining rooms, and looks like an exotic dive in 70s London Chinatown. Hullet House, 2A Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3988-0101. DRAGON-I — Watch the bold and the beautiful work the celeb-studded room. It’s usually packed with models, especially on Wednesday nights. UG/F, The Centrium, 60 Wyndham St., Central, 3110-1222.
Angel’s Share
ANGEL’S SHARE — This unique drinking loft is specifically designed for whisky-lovers. From Scotland, to Japan, there’s enough aged golden liquid here to suit even the most discerning single-malt drinkers. 2/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-8388.
EXECUTIVE BAR — So quiet the sound of a ninja’s sword slicing through silk would be cause for shushing. Well, not really, but it is quiet, Japanese and well stocked with Scotch—the drink of the introspective man. 27/F, Bartlock Centre, 3 Yiu Wa St., Causeway Bay, 2893-2080.
AQUA spirit — For cocktails with a killer view, you can do no better than this swanky high-rise venue with an eagle’s eye view of the harbor. 30/F, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288.
GRAPPA’S CELLAR — This bustling after-work spot features some of the city’s top jazz musicians. B/F, Jardine House, Connaught Place, Central, 2521-2322.
Beijing Club — This impressive megaclub recently celebrated its fourth anniversary and is the biggest in town. Expect wet-look vinyl walls, gold-plated bathrooms and a youthful crowd. 2-3/F & 5/F, Wellington Place, 2-8 Wellington St., Central, 2526-8298.
BLUE BAR — The upscale Blue Bar is a big hit with the cocktail set. Yes, the martinis are worth getting dressed up for. Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8330. Café Gray Deluxe — Beside the seductively stretched bar are cozy booths for intimate lounging, and its 49th-floor perch guarantees breathtaking harbor views. Cocktail lovers should try the Hong Kong Highball. 49/F, The Upper House, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106. Central Wine Club — This exclusive spot on Wyndham Street was designed with oenophiles in mind. Luxe, modern Baroque surrounds keep pace with the slow jazz and contemporary tunes. 3/F, Sea Bird House, 22-28 Wyndham St., Central, 2147-3448. CLUB@28 — This stylish bar has killer views, deadly cocktails and its very own outdoor oasis called The Pavilion. It’s members only, but you can join on arrival and it’s free. 28/F, Crowne Plaza Hotel, 8 Leighton Rd., Causeway Bay, 3980-3300. COCKY BAR — The name is simply the bar’s way of boasting that it’s a top spot to grab a cocktail. Arguably true, since it has a stunning alfresco balcony overlooking the glittering harbor.
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Martini BAR — This stylish hotel bar has nightly entertainment, a range of cocktails beyond just martinis and is one of the few cigar lounges in town. The Royal Garden, 69 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2733-2995. Lion Rock — Lion Rock is the place to unwind and relax while having one (or more) of 193 signature cocktails. Enjoy the awesome view and weekly wine and whisky tastings. 3/F, Royal Plaza Hotel,193 Prince Edward Rd. West, Kowloon, 2622-6167. MCSORLEY’S ALE HOUSE — Woody, Irish and vaguely Victorian, McSorley’s is the biggest pub in SoHo. 55 Elgin St., SoHo, 2522-2646. MO BAR — The bar at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental is a sleek, upscale addition to the nightlife scene. The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, Central, 2132-0077. Ozone — Located 118 floors above the ground, this watering hole boasts a superlative title: the highest bar in Hong Kong. This nightspot is a must see, especially due to its drop-dead gorgeous lookout onto Victoria Harbour. 118/F, The Ritz-Carlton Hotel, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2263.
Azure — Stunning view, minimalist blue décor and great cocktails. 29/F, LKF Hotel, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 3518-9330.
Blckbrd — This chilled-out spot has an official “no loud music” policy, making it the perfect place for a few low-key drinks. Located on the sixth floor, the outdoor terrace is a serene place to watch the world go by. 6/F, 8 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2545-8555.
M BAR — Set against the heights of Hong Kong’s skyline, the Mandarin Oriental’s M Bar makes for a ravishingly chic hangout. Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd., 2825-4850.
Jaa Bar
Jaa Bar — Located in a small alleyway off of Peel Street, Jaa Bar combines comfort and charm for an exclusive experience. The centerpiece of the ornate enclave is a custom-made wooden bar pieced together from classical furniture pieces. 1 Pak Tsz Lane, Central, 2815-8887. KEE CLUB — A good concierge should be able to get you into this exclusive members-only club, where you can sip a cocktail and check out the Picassos, antiques and colonialstyle service. 6/F, 32 Wellington St., Central, 2810-9000. L’etage — With the feel of a true gentlemen’s club, this is a place for refined Hongkongers to sit back and relax with a traditionally made cocktail in one hand and a cigar in another. It’s worth coming back just to watch head bartender Katsuhisa Hirakawa hand-carve spheres of ice for whiskey. 33-35 Staunton St., Central, 2522-5300. LE BOUDOIR — This Francophone hangout is all sultry drapes, chandeliers and velvet upholstery. The cocktails are stellar, too. B/F, 65 Wyndham St., Central, 2530-3870. LILY — VIPs are buzzed in and out of Lily’s fabulous secret room, the Blind Pig. The aesthetes amongst you will be delighted that so much attention has been paid to the visual elements of the venue. 6/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-6166.
Red Bar
RED BAR — Located on a terrace atop IFC Mall, this funky destination bar has a breathtaking outdoor area with harbor views. 4/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance St., Central, 8129-8882. RIEDEL ROOM — The world’s first Riedel Room offers exclusive wines to be enjoyed in Riedel crystal glassware. JW Marriott Hotel, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2841-3836. Sake Bar Ginn — Sake sommelier Ayuchi Momose is behind this upper-floor bar. In addition to serving 100 types of sake and Japanese tapas, she also imports special sakes by microbreweries. Shop 4C, 4/F, Ho Lee Commercial Building, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2536-4355. Salon de Ning — Decadent Shanghai art deco lounge with live music Mon-Sat. B/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-3355. SHORE — A chill outdoor space and one of the most extensive drinks selection in town. Newly renovated. 3/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2915-1638.
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Staunton’s — Popularly considered the best “people-watching spot” in Hong Kong, Staunton’s has the right equation for a chill evening drink. It also has an eclectic menu. 10-12 Staunton St., Central, 2973-6611. SUGAR — Sink into one of the sofas at this swanky rooftop bar and enjoy the amazing views of the harbor. 32/F, East Hotel, 29 Tai Koo Shing Rd., Tai Koo, 3968-3968.
The Lawn
The Lawn — This outdoor garden is a genuine urban oasis, exuding a serene, intimate vibe and illuminated entirely by a few candles. 6/F, The Upper House, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106. THE PAWN — The modern British restaurant and bar, a former pawn shop, has an outdoor balcony from which to enjoy a view of Hong Kong’s 100-year-old trams. 62 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-3444. The Tonno — This complex features a bar, a clubbing zone, a restaurant, a live music lounge, karaoke rooms, taking “all-around entertainment” to a whole new level. Head here for an epic marathon of dancing, drinking, Elton John hits, dart games and Shanghainese buns. 5 Tonnochy Rd., Wan Chai, 3125-3888.
Vibes
VIBES — This is the Mira hotel’s svelte venue for drinks with a stunning secret garden. 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-1111. VOLAR — Frequented by models and wannabes, Volar can be exclusive, but you can dance the night away to top DJs. B/F, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2810-1510. WOOLOOMOOLOO — This steakhouse outlet boasts a gorgeous rooftop with stunning views of Victoria Harbour and the Happy Valley horse racing track. 31/F, The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2893-6960.
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ShopS+Services | The Guide
A True Gem Debutante jewelry designer Carmen Chan has an eye for statement-making pieces. She tells Léonie Xin Chao-fong what inspired her to drop her marketing day job, and where she shops around town.
Your debut collection is called “A Sweet Escape.” How and from where does your jewelry offer an escape? The collection is about escaping from the crowd to your inner self, and from reality to your inner dreams. You have an academic background in business. When did you decide to pursue a career in jewelry design instead? I would say that my business and marketing background helps me not just as a designer, but as an entrepreneur. I have loved art and fashion since I was very young. Early last year, I [apprenticed under] a jewelry craftsman, where I first learned the skill of silver making. It was love at first sight. In the fall of 2012, I decided to quit my job in marketing and start my own brand. I am young enough to explore my dreams and old enough to make them come true. There have been a lot of ups and downs but I am doing what makes me happy. This is just the beginning and I am so looking forward to the future.
Carmen Chan’s pieces can be bought at www.carmenchanjewelry.com.
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From where do you get your inspiration? I am blessed to live in a beautiful city that is in itself an inspiration. A very good friend once told me to just look up to the sky to find inspiration. I am also inspired when meeting new people—a fruitful conversation can offer you a new perspective. Many of your pieces feature organic materials such as corals and feathers. What role does the natural world play in your work? The use of materials echoes the design concept: to be your natural self and be proud of standing out from the crowd. I enjoy the use of natural colorful stones in my design. The colors found in nature and the textures of leaves, trees and flowers inspire me. The statement necklaces in the collection are made from an unconventional mix of materials such as turquoise, coral, moonstone, shells and silver.
What sort of outfits would you pair your jewelry with? A: I love experimenting with different styles. Sometimes I feel quite boyish, and I’ll wear a white men’s shirt and simple skinny jeans, paired with my own gold plated pendant necklace from the Messenger collection, and sequin black heels. Other times I will match my colorful statement necklace with an equally colorful floral or printed dress and black Mary Jane flats or ballerina flats. Where do you like to shop for clothing and accessories in Hong Kong? A: I shop around whenever I travel; I especially love going to the little vintage stores and flea markets in Paris. Select 18 in Sheung Wan stocks a lot of nice vintage items, from dresses and shades to suitcases and bags. I also go to ASOS for a variety of dresses. I am planning to visit Heaven Please as well, as they have really funky designs.
What will your next collection be like? I am currently designing and experimenting with my new collection. There will be more of an emphasis on nature, with more sophisticated, dreamy and romantic jewelry. I am very excited about it.
Almost all goods, apart from certain types of alcohol and tobacco, are tax-free.
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Say Where? Check out Carmen Chan’s wishlist of shops.
Heaven Please 2B Po Foo Building, No. 1 Foo Ming St., Causeway Bay, 2311-9533.
Select 18 Shop A, G/F, Grandview Garden, 18 Bridges St., Central, 9127-3657.
ASOS www.asos.com.
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ShopS+Services | The Guide Shopping Centers
Retail Therapy Jazzy jewels and Japanese jumpers are just a shop, skip and a jump away.
APM — In the center of Kwun Tong, APM opens late (11am) but closes even later (2am). It boasts 150 shops, a cinema, more than 20 international restaurants and a convenient link to the MTR station. Millennium City 5, 418 Kwun Tong Rd., Kwun Tong, 2267-0500. ELEMENTS — Two floors and a million square feet of retail heaven beneath Hong Kong’s tallest building, the ICC, this luxury mall offers international cuisine and world-class shopping. Other features include a cinema, ice rink and enormous roof garden. 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2735-5234. HARBOUR CITY — This enormous stretch of shops runs along Canton Road for what seems like miles. Its four levels of shops, services and restaurants sprawl across over 2 million square feet. 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2118-8601.
Pomellato Glamorous Milanese jewelry brand Pomellato recently hit our shores with a shop at the IFC Mall in Central. Founded in the late 60s, Pomellato was one of the first high-end jewelry stores to stock ready-to-wear pieces, rather than offering only bespoke. This year, it has signed on actress Tilda Swinton to help flaunt its rocks. Perhaps best known for its colorful cocktail rings, Pomellato combines bright colors with bold, modern designs. Its eye-catching
collections incorporate both precious and semi-precious stones such as garnet, blue topaz and black diamond, set in rose and white gold. Designs range from simple, oversized shapes to delicate, lacelike metalwork. The IFC Mall boutique is blinged out with gold walls, mirrors, lacquered wooden accents and cushy red chairs. The shop’s front consists of ceiling-to-floor windows, showing off the gold columns and walls within. 2/F, Shop 2039, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2234-7283.
HYSAN PLACE — This brand-new mall is a great one-stop shopping destination, with over 120 stores (including hard-to-find Japanese brands) and tons of high-quality dining options. 500 Leighton Rd., Causeway Bay, 2886-7222. IFC MALL — This popular shopping center is home to more than 200 international high-end brands with Lane Crawford acting as an anchor. It also has a luxurious cinema, and some of the finest dining in the city. Easily accessible via MTR, Airport Express and Star Ferry. 8 Finance St., Central, 2295-3308. HORIZON PLAZA — It may not look promising but this is something of a mecca for bargain fashion, furniture and Chinese antiques. The industrial high-rise features Lane Crawford and Joyce outlets. Also look for homeware emporium Tequila Kola and antiques warehouse Shambala. 2 Lee Wing St., Ap Lei Chau. ISLAND BEVERLEY — Browse through closetsized boutiques offering the best of hip local designers. 1 Great George St., Causeway Bay. THE LANDMARK — The Landmark is a fashion mecca centered around a five-story atrium. Don’t miss iconic London department store Harvey Nichols or upscale supermarket. 12-16 Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2921-2199.
Uniqlo Global Flagship Beloved for its well-cut basics, comfy, quality fabrics and cool collaborations with international designers, Japanese clothing store Uniqlo is the undisputed king of affordable fashion right now. It’s chosen Causeway Bay for its international flagship store, which is set to span some 37,000 square feet. For the big launch, the brand has co-opted local celebs Miriam Yeung, Shawn Yue Lee Wai-sze and Wong Kam-po to help represent its wares. With a regular rotation of designer collaborations
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with everyone from Lulu Guinness to Japanese designer Iliann Loeb and even, um, Laduree macarons, there’s bound to be something new to browse each time you go. Besides the fashion-forward options, there are also tons of seasonal staples, including camisoles, plain tees, cardigans, jeggings, polo shirts, sleepwear and much more. Smack bang in the middle of Causeway Bay right next to Times Square, Uniqlo is taking up the entire first three floors of the Lee Theatre on Percival Street. G/F, Lee Theatre, No. 99 Percival St., Causeway Bay.
LANGHAM PLACE — Occupying about 600,000 square feet, Langham Place houses fashion and lifestyle stores and more than 20 restaurants. It’s within walking distance of the Ladies’ Market and Fa Yuen Street. 8 Argyle St., Mongkok, 3520-2800, www.langhamplace.com.hk. LEE GARDENS — Divided into Lee Gardens and Lee Gardens Two, this luxury mall is stuffed with high-end retailers such as Gucci, Hermes, Louis Vuitton and more. Lee Gardens Two has children’s fashion shops, and there are plenty of restaurants to choose from. 18 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2907-2166, www.leegardens.com.hk.
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ShopS+Services | The Guide Rd., (Entrance on Sharp Streat East), Causeway Bay, 2890-5555, www.god.com.hk. Rise Shopping Arcade — A playground for hip, trendy and young fashionistas. 5-11 Granville Circuit, Tsim Sha Tsui. SPY Henry Lau — Edgy and bold fashion for men and women. 1/F, 5 Cleveland St., Causeway Bay, 2317-6928, www.spyhenrylau.com. Harvey Nichols at Pacific Place
PACIFIC PLACE — One of the most popular malls in Hong Kong, Pacific Place has four floors of upscale shops and restaurants anchored by a massive Harvey Nichols. There’s also a nice range of eateries and a multi-screen cinema. 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8988. PRINCE’S BUILDING — Part of the “Centers of Central” shopping hub, Prince’s Building is linked by covered walkway to The Landmark, Chater House, Alexandra House and The Galleria. A cozy mixture of the uberfashionable, the artistic and the maternal, it also houses the excellent Oliver’s supermarket. 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2921-2194. One Peking ROAD — Satisfy your thirst for designer wear with Dior, Fendi, Miu Miu and Cartier. 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. TIMES SQUARE — One of Hong Kong’s largest malls, this 16-story complex contains more than 230 shops—including Lane Crawford, upscale Japanese supermarket City’super, Page One books and a cinema. 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2118-8900.
Vivienne Tam — Elegant, feminine contemporary dresses with a Chinese twist. Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2918-0238. Walter Ma — Well-established designer offering luxury fashion. 33 Sharp St. East, Causeway Bay, 2838-7655. Western Market — An Edwardian-styled building with restaurants and shops selling Chinese crafts and fabrics. 323 Des Voeux Rd. Central, Sheung Wan.
Department Stores Harvey Nichols — The Hong Kong branch of London’s department store is a haven of international brands, with a good restaurant— the Fourth Floor —and a fabulous beauty department. The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3695-3388, www.harveynichols.com. JOYCE — Named after founder and Hong Kong’s first lady of fashion, Joyce Ma, this is the place for red-hot fashion and accessories, cult beauty brands and too-chic housewares. New World Tower, 18 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2810-1120; 334 Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2523-5944; 23 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-8128.
The Swank
THE SWANK — Representing established designers as well as up-and-coming talents, The Swank has been one of the finest local fashion houses since 1955. It has 17 freestanding boutiques and points-of-sale in major department stores. Shop 103B, 1/F, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-0842.
Chinese Emporiums CHINESE ARTS AND CRAFTS — Stuffed with the best of Chinese crafts, from tablecloths to objets d’art to some incredible jade, this is one of the best places to stock up on gifts, porcelain, jewelry, cloth and fine antiques. 1/F, Star House, 3 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-4061. YUE HWA CHINESE EMPORIUM — Yue Hwa is a great place to pick up souvenirs and gifts, from acupuncture needles to Chinese Zodiac figurines. There is a good selection of cheongsams, tops and trousers tailored from quality silk. 143-161 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2739-3888.
Shops, Boutiques and Local Designers
Tailors
ADOREÉ — Popular lingerie boutique selling fashionable, international brands. Rm 604, 6/F, Commerical House, 35 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3101-0188, www.adoree.com.hk.
DAVID FASHION — G/F, Shop 15, Empress Plaza, 17-19 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-6884. LA ELITE FASHION — G/F, 1H Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-0040.
Amours Antiques — Antique jewelry and vintage clothes. 45 Staunton St., Central, 2803-7877. Blanc de Chine — Modern Chinese luxury clothing and accessories for women and men. The Landmark, 12-16 Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2104-7934, www.blancdechine.com.
G.O.D.
G.O.D. — Some “Goods of Desire” for those searching for the perfect couch or unique home accessories. G-1/F, Leighton Centre, 77 Leighton 44 W HERE H ONG KONG I maY 2013
Lane Crawford
LANE CRAWFORD — This Hong Kong institution is almost as old as the city itself, and just as fashionable. It’s stacked with must-have designer brands as well as handbags, shoes, silver, linen, crystal and everything in between. 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2118-3388. SHANGHAI TANG — Shanghai Tang specializes in a funky fusion of traditional and contemporary Chinese design. You’ll find kitsch accessories, great housewares, fun T-shirts, fashion for men and women and incredibly beautiful bespoke cheongsams. The brand-new flagship is worth a visit. 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333. SOGO — Japan’s most famous department store sits at one of the city’s busiest intersections. 555 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2833-8338.
L & K Custom Tailor — G/F, Mirador Mansion, 54-64 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2369-7278. Nita Fashion — G/F, 16 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. 2721-9990, www.nitafashions.com. Punjab House — 5/F, Suite C, Golden Crown Court, 66-70 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-6612, www.punjabhouse.com.hk. Raja Fashion — G/F, 34C Cameron Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-7624, www.raja-fashions.com. REGAL fashion — LG/F, Shop 8 & 9, Houston Centre, 63 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-6007. Sam’s Tailor — Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 92-94 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-9423. Shaniel Custom Tailor — G/F, Shop B & C, Comfort Building, 86-88A Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2730-1287.
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Navigate | The Guide
Tourist Information HONG KONG TOURISM BOARD — The Hong Kong Tourism Board is ready to answer all your questions about travel in Hong Kong. Look for visitor centers at the following locations: Hong Kong International Airport (at Buffer Halls A and B, Arrivals Level, Terminal 1); Lo Wu (Arrival Hall, 2/F Lo Wu Terminal Building); Kowloon (Star Ferry Concourse, Tsim Sha Tsui, open daily 8am-8pm); and The Peak Piazza (between The Peak Tower and The Peak Galleria, Hong Kong Island, open daily 9am-9pm). You can also call their Visitor Hotline (25081234) from 9am to 6pm. Visit www. discoverhonghong.com for descriptions of attractions plus shopping, dining and touring tips. The website also has a comprehensive description of the month’s events and festivals as well as virtual tours, e-cards, a photo gallery and handy downloadable apps for your phone.
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Get Moving
Octopus Cards
Hong Kong has a great public transportation system called the MTR, as well as highly punctual, carefully scheduled buses (with their routes clearly printed in English). Renting a car can be a headache because roads can be confusing and parking costly. It’s cheaper and easier to take a taxi, ferry, tram, bus, hotel limousine, or even a helicopter.
These are “wave-and-go” stored-value cards used across all of Hong Kong’s transportation systems, and in retail outlets like car parks and convenience stores.
Taxis Taxis are readily available at reasonable prices. Be aware that drivers cannot pick up or drop off on roads marked with double yellow lines, and no waiting is allowed except on unmarked roads. Red taxis serve Hong Kong Island and Kowloon and can go anywhere in the territory. Green taxis cost less but only serve the New Territories. Similarly, blue taxis serve Lantau Island only. Drivers generally speak some English but it is wise to get the hotel staff to write your destination in Chinese characters, or point to one of the destinations in this guide.
The size of a credit card, the Octopus is simply placed on the touch pads at the entrance to public transportation or the cash register in shops. Payment is automatically deducted. Cards can be refilled at MTR stations and any retail outlet that accepts them. Three types of Octopus cards are available. The “On Loan Octopus” costs $150, which includes a $50 deposit and $100 of stored value. The “Sold Octopus” costs $70, and does not include any stored value. The “Airport Express Tourist Octopus” costs $220/$300 and includes one/two single Airport Express journeys and three days of unlimited rides on the MTR, $20 stored value and a $50 deposit.
Trams have been a part of Hong Kong life for more than 100 years. With a $2.30 flat fare, they are still the cheapest way to get around.
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Fun in Sai Ying Pun Given all the eateries and galleries that are cropping up, this neighborhood is getting trendier by the minute.
Eat my Cakes
Sweet Classroom Above Second
Since ritzy apartment complex Island Crest opened its doors, new eateries have flooded this Western District neighborhood to meet the demand of hungry residents after hours. Meanwhile, a handful of alternative galleries have also set up shop in an attempt to evade the higher rents of Sheung Wan and Central. Sai Ying Pun itself is set on the hillside, but don’t let the inclines scare you off—you’d be missing out on the low-key wonders of this modest neighborhood. A more bohemian, slightly edgier SoHo of sorts, the area around First and Second Streets, just south of Queen’s Road West, is now home to an increasing number of independent restaurants and galleries—all spirited small businesses run by people who are extremely passionate about what they do.
Eat My Cakes Eat My Cakes is a font of mouthwatering goodies from pies and cheesecake to cookies and cupcakes (try the “Death by Chocolate”). G/F, 21 Western St., Sai Ying Pun, 3480-8842.
Sweet Classroom
Above Second
This humble dessert shop’s scholarly décor fits its name, with wooden tables, chairs and menus modeled after notebooks. Try the tiramisu made with mascarpone cheese, the French toast bread pudding with vanilla ice cream and their take on Hong Kong-style milk tea.
From illustration and graphic design to street art and works referencing pop culture, Above Second strives to stay ahead of the curve. A platform for innovative contemporary art, this gallery showcases an array of Hong Kong and international artists.
G/F, 150 Third St., Sai Ying Pun, 2803-2933.
31 Eastern St., Sai Ying Pun, 3483-7950, www.above-second.com.
Derby West It may be popular with nearby university students, but adults also find this Sai Ying Pun pub a refreshing alternative to the bars in SoHo. Order a pint and some fish and chips while chatting with the bar’s loyal customers from around the neighborhood. G/F, 389-391 Queen's Rd. West, Sai Ying Pun, 2698-2468.
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Derby West
Artist Residence HK This relative newcomer to the Sai Ying Pun scene aims to be a creative hub for young, local artists. Avant-garde, conceptual and up-cycled art that’s environmentally conscious are among their primary interests. 7 Third St., Sai Ying Pun, 2549-5777.
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Buses Hong Kong has two major bus companies: Kowloon Motor Bus — www.kmb.hk, 2745-4466. citybus / New World First BUS — www.nwfb.com.hk, 2136-8888.
Sights & Attractions
Avenue of Stars
AVENUE OF STARS — Fans of Hong Kong movies will find their heroes’ hand- and footprints permanently etched in concrete along the Avenue of the Stars, along with a statue of martial artist Bruce Lee. Go at 8pm for the nightly Symphony of Lights. Music plays over loudspeakers here and nowhere else, although the light display can be seen from around the city. Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront. BANK OF CHINA TOWER — I. M. Pei designed this 70-story building and bank headquarters to resemble stalks of bamboo. 1 Garden Rd., Central. BIG BUDDHA (大佛) — The world’s biggest Buddha of its kind took 10 years to build and sits on a lotus throne atop Lantau Island. The 200+ steps to the top are open from 10am to 5:30pm daily and definitely recommended for the spectacular mountain views. Special admission tickets are available and include a vegetarian meal. Also check out the nearby Po Lin Monastery. Take the MTR to Tung Chung Station and then bus 23 to Ngong Ping. CHI LIN NUNNERY—An oasis of peace in the heart of Kowloon, this graceful, wooden Buddhist nunnery is the largest building in the world to be constructed using no nails—only wooden dowels and brackets. It’s a 33,000-square-meter complex whose architectural style dates back to the Tang Dynasty, although the buildings themselves were completed in 1998. It’s centered on a courtyard filled with lotus ponds. Vegetarian food is available. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1888. CONVENTION AND EXHIBITION CENTRE — Finished in time to host the handover ceremony in July 1997, the center’s roof was designed to look like a seagull’s wings in flight. 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai, 2582-8888. HONG KONG DISNEYLAND—Take a trip back to the 1900s on Main Street, catch a train to Fantasyland, float down the Rivers of maY 2013 I WH ERE HONG KONG 49
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Adventure, catch a show or blast through outer space in Tomorrowland. When you’re done charting your exotic surroundings take a moment to dine, shop or cavort with the various Disney characters who roam the park. It’s easy to get to via MTR, bus or car. See the website for transportation details. Lantau Island, 1-830-830, park. hongkongdisneyland.com. Hong Kong Dolphinwatch — Catch a glimpse of the pink dolphins, an animal so unique to these waters that it was named the official mascot of Hong Kong’s 1997 handover. Tours depart every Wed, Fri and Sun from the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Central at 8:30am, and the Kowloon Hotel in Tsim Tsa Tsui at 9am. The cruise takes up to three hours, and if no dolphins are seen, the company provides a free “go-again guarantee.” $320 for adults, $160 for children under 12 years, with proceeds going to dolphin research. Call 2984-1414 or visit www.hkdolphinwatch.com.
Sam’s The Man (Just ask his customers)
Sam’s Tailor, Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 92-94 Nathan Road, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon. Tel: (852) 2367 9423 / 2721 8375 Fax: (852) 2311 8147
HONG KONG ZOOLOGICAL AND BOTANICAL GARDENS — Home to eight endangered species, the zoo successfully breeds rare birds and orangutans. Established in 1864, the park retains all the Victorian accents from that era and is an idyllic spot in the middle of the city. Admission free. Open daily 6am-7pm. Garden Rd., Central. A staircase from Upper Albert Rd. leads to the main entrance.
MTR to Tung Chung Station and walk two minutes to the cable-car terminal. OPEN-TOP BUS TOUR — One Big Bus day tour ticket includes 24 hour hop-on-hop-off access to the red tour (Hong Kong Island) and the blue tour (Kowloon), as well as prerecorded commentary in eight languages and other perks. Unit 501, 5/F, No.1 Minden Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2723-2108. PEAK TRAM AND VICTORIA PEAK — The world’s steepest funicular railway hauls passengers up Victoria Peak in approximately eight minutes. Once at the top, enjoy panoramic views of the city, or check out the restaurants, shops and various attractions at the Peak Galleria and Peak Tower. The tram runs daily 7am-midnight, tickets $25 one-way, $36 round trip. Bus No. 15C runs between Peak Tram lower terminus and Central, near the Star Ferry. It costs $4.20 for a single journey. Garden Road and Cotton Tree Drive, 2522-0922. PO LIN MONASTERY — Translated as “Precious Lotus,” Po Lin on Lantau Island was established in 1917 and is popular for day trippers who come to marvel at its 80-foot-tall seated Big Buddha. Temple open 10am-6pm, Buddha 10am-5:30pm, restaurant 11:30am-4:30pm. Free entry. Take bus No. 2, marked “Po Lin Monastery,” from Silvermine Bay (Mui Wo). Ngong Ping, Lantau Peak, Lantau Island, 2985-5248. Ferries for Mui Wo on Lantau depart from pier No. 6 near the Central Star Ferry Terminal. SIK SIK YUEN WONG TAI SIN TEMPLE — This active Buddhist temple is large and colorful with beautiful adjoining gardens. Have your fortune told by palm readers in the main arcade. Open 7am-5:30pm. A small donation is expected. Follow signs from Wong Tai Sin MTR stop. 2328-0270.
Man Mo Temple
MAN MO TEMPLE (文武廟) — This temple was built in 1847 to honor the God of Literature, Man Cheong, and the God of War, Mo Tai. A grade-1 historical building, it is one of biggest tourist attractions in Central. Star Ferry
STAR FERRY (天星小輪) — Cross Victoria Harbour between Hong Kong Island and the Kowloon Peninsula on the Star Ferry. These open-deck ferries are one of Hong Kong’s most recognizable attractions and a common, cheap—and pleasant—form of transportation. Take the MTR to Central or Tsim Sha Tsui and follow the signs. Ngong Ping 360
NGONG PING 360 — Home to a theater, teahouse, nature center, cultural themed village and more, Ngong Ping 360 is best known for its 5.7-kilometer cable-car service that offers panoramic views of Lantau Island’s lush valleys, the South China Sea and the world-famous Tian Tan Buddha. Take the 50 W HERE H ONG KONG I M aY 2013
ST. JOHN’S CATHEDRAL (聖約翰座堂) — A beautiful cathedral built in the shape of a cross. Open daily from 7am to 6pm for quiet prayer and meditation. Take the MTR to Central.
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TEN THOUSAND BUDDHAS MONASTERY — One of the most celebrated monasteries in Hong Kong, the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery actually has more than 12,800 Buddhas stored in five temples, four pavilions and a nine-story pagoda. The one that you’re likely to remember best is the mummified Buddhist monk, who sits in splendor, coated in gold leaf, inside a glass case. Light meals are served at the on-site vegetarian restaurant. Sha Tin MTR, Exit B, 2691-1067, www.10kbuddhas.org. TAI O — This charming fishing village is a maze of stilt houses built over a creek on the very tip of Lantau Island. It’s a fascinating slice of old Hong Kong, with dried fish stalls, the picturesque Tin Hau Temple and a couple of interesting little museums. Take a ferry from Central.
Embassies & Consulates Argentina 2523-3208; Australia 2827-8881; Bangladesh 2827-4278; Belgium 2524-3111; Brazil 2525-7002; Canada 3719-4700; Chile 2827-1826; China (China Travel) 2853-3888; Columbia 2545-8547; Czech Republic 28022212; Egypt 2827-0668; Finland 2525-5385; France 3752-9900; Germany 2105-8788; Greece 2774-1682; India 2528-4028; Israel 2821-7500; Italy 2522-0033; Japan 2522-1184; Korea 2529-4141; Laos 2544-1186; Malaysia 2821-0800; Mexico 2511-3305; Netherlands 2522-5127; New Zealand 2525-5044; Pakistan 2827-1966; Philippines 2823-8500; Peru 2868-2622; Poland 2840-0779; Russia 28777188; Singapore 2527-2212; Spain 2525-3041; Sweden 2521-1212; Switzerland 2522-7147; Taiwan (Chung Hwa Travel Service) 2530-1187; Thailand 2521-6481; Turkey 2572-1331; United Arab Emirates 2866-1823; United Kingdom 2901-3000; USA 2523-9011; Venezuela 2730-8099; Vietnam 2591-4510.
Financial Matters Generally, business hours are weekdays 9am-5pm, with a lunch hour from 1pm-2pm, and Saturdays 9am-1pm. The local currency is the Hong Kong dollar. There is no central mint; instead, notes are issued by three separate private banks and the city’s Monetary Authority. The Hong Kong dollar is pegged to the US dollar at a rate of approximately US$1 to HK$7.79. Denominations include $10, $20, $50, $100, $500 and $1,000 notes. Coins come in denominations of 10, 20 and 50 cents, and one, two, five and 10 dollars. BANKS — Major banks are open weekdays 9am4:30pm, and Saturdays 9am-12:30pm. Banks are closed Sundays and public holidays. Some services, such as foreign exchange-related transactions, are not available at banks one hour before closing. The following details are for the banks’ main offices, call for retail locations: Bank of America, Bank of America Tower, 12 Harcourt Rd., Central, 2847-5588; Citibank, Citibank Tower, 3 Garden Rd., Central, 2868-8888; HSBC, 29 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2233-3000; Standard Chartered Bank, 4 Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2868-2154.
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Walking Tours | The Guide
A Stroll Through Time Walking through Sheung Wan and Central, discover two areas where the hustle and bustle of a modern city mingle with colorful, age-old traditions.
Start at the Sheung Wan MTR station. Take exit B, turn right and walk about three minutes.
Western Market An Edwardian-style building built in 1906, this grand building is now a historical monument full of themed shops, tailors and restaurants.
Possession Street. Walk uphill along the sloping street and turn left into Hollywood Road. Turn left at Lok Ku Road, then right onto Upper Lascar Row.
Hollywood Road This thoroughfare is famous for its many curios and antiques shops.
and literature was built during the colonial era. Open daily from 8am to 6pm. Continue walking east along Hollywood Road to the Central Mid-Levels Escalator. Take the escalator up to Staunton Street and the SoHo area.
Central Mid-Levels Escalator
Walk along Morrison Street and turn right into Wing Lok Street.
At 800 meters long, this is the world’s longest covered outdoor escalator.
Wing Lok Street
SoHo
This street is lined with specialty shops selling ginseng and bird’s nest.
You’ll find great food, coffee shops and funky bars in this lively dining district as well as boutiques and markets.
At the end of Wing Lok Street, turn left onto Des Voeux Road West. Upper Lascar Row
Des Voeux Road West Discover the surprising varieties of exotic dried seafood available on this street. Walk along Des Voeux Road West and turn left onto Ko Shing Street.
Ko Shing Street This is the wholesale center of Hong Kong’s thriving herbal medicine trade. Walk back to Des Voeux Road West, turn right into Bonham Strand West and continue until you can turn right into 52 W HERE H ONG KONG I MAY 2013
Upper Lascar Row Also known as Cat Street, this alley is a shopper’s paradise lined with traditional street stalls. Walk back uphill to Hollywood Road, turn left and walk until you reach the Man Mo Temple.
Man Mo Temple One of the first traditional-style temples in Hong Kong, this homage to the gods of war
Take the steps beside the escalator down to Hollywood Road, turn right and walk to the former Central Police Station Compound, former Central Magistracy and Victoria Prison Compound (not open to the public).
Former Central Police Station Compound This gray building with a Doric-style façade and columns was built in 1864.
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Former Central Police Station Compound
Former Central Magistracy The structure has a majestic appearance, with imposing pillars and other features typical of Greek Revival style.
Victoria Prison Compound Built in 1841, Victoria Prison is believed to be the first western building constructed of durable material in Hong Kong.
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Walk east along Hollywood Road as it turns into Wyndham Street, and follow the signs to Lan Kwai Fong.
Lan Kwai Fong
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A buzzing center of clubs, bars and restaurants. A must for night owls and people-watchers. Walk up D’Aguilar Street, cross Wyndham Street and turn left onto Lower Albert Road. Follow the signs to Duddell Street.
Duddell Street Steps & Gas Lamps The lamps at the head and foot of the steps, built between 1875 and 1889, are the only four gas lamps remaining in Hong Kong.
For more Hong Kong walks visit www.discoverhongkong. com or call the HKTB hotline on 2508-1234.
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里n 交加 ss L dmaY 2013 I WH ERE HONG KONG 57 Cro R d oo 跑馬地運動 W
Y
30 Things we LOve about Hong Kong 2
5
!6
4
1 Shopping at Times Square.
9 Snaking through the
1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay.
high-rises on the Mid-Levels Escalator—the longest in the world. Cochrane, Shelley and Peel Streets, Central.
2 Marveling at the beautiful Chi Lin Nunnery, the world’s largest building constructed without nails. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1604.
3 Visiting the Kun Yam Temple. Kun Yam Street, Jordan.
4 Dining aboard the kitschycool Jumbo Floating Restaurant. Shum Wan Pier Drive, Wong Chuk Hang, Aberdeen, 2553-9111.
5 Riding a cable car 5.7 kilometers over Lantau’s lush valleys to visit the Ngong Ping cultural village and the Big Buddha.
6 Being fitted for a tailor-made suit. Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui.
7 Shopping for antique kitsch on Cat Street (Upper Lascar Row) in Sheung Wan.
8 Cheering on jockeys at the Happy Valley Racecourse on Wednesdays starting September 12. Visit www.hkjc.com for info.
8
!0 Taking a walk down the Historic Trail at the Museum of Coastal Defense. 2569-1500. !1 Eating with the locals at a dai pai dong food stall. Gough Street, Central. !2 Getting a shave and a trim at the Mandarin Barber. 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2522-0111. !3 Exploring Lamma Island, then feasting on deep-fried squid at Rainbow Seafood. 16-24 First St., Sok Kwu Wan, Lamma Island, 2982-8100. !4 Having our palms read at Temple Street Night Market. Temple Street, Yau Ma Tei. !5 Sipping on decadent cocktails while taking in the spectacular view at Eyebar. 30/F, iSquare, 63 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2487-3988.
58 W HERE H ONG KONG I MAY 2013
@5
!6 Taking one of the oldest rides in Hong Kong—a tram from Western Market in Sheung Wan to Causeway Bay.
@4 Buying witty chinoiserie at Shanghai Tang's beautiful new flagship mansion. 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333.
!7 Cruising Victoria Harbour on the Duk Ling, an authentic Chinese junk. 2573-5282.
@5 Watching the sunset from tranquil Pui O Beach. Lantau Island.
!8 Being entertained by the intriguing performances and exhibitions at the Fringe Club. 2 Lower Albert Rd., Central, 2521-7251.
@6 Snacking on delicious egg tarts at Tai Cheong Bakery. 32 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2554-3475.
!9 Marveling at the Symphony of Lights show over Victoria Harbour at 8pm every night. @0 Haggling with hawkers for jade, gold and cheap jewelry at the Jade Market. Kansu and Battery Streets, Yau Ma Tei. @1 Dressing up for high tea at The Peninsula. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-3169. @2 Taking a ride on the Peak Tram. 33 Garden Rd., Central, 2522-0922. @3 Doing some late-night shopping on Sai Yeung Choi Street in Mong Kok.
@7 Seeing our animated favorites come to life at Hong Kong Disneyland. Lantau Island, 1-830-830. @8 Stopping for tea at Fook Ming Tong Tea Shop. Shop 3225, 3/F, The Gateway, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-1077. @9 Spending the afternoon at the mall. Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8900. #0 Slurping oysters for brunch at Cafe Deco. 1/F, Peak Galleria, 188 Peak Road, The Peak, 2849-5111.
Arch Angel Authenticated museum quality Asian antiquities. 53/55 Hollywood Road • Central • Hong Kong • Tel: (852) 2851 6848 • Fax: (852) 2851 6778 • Open Daily: 9:30-6:30 Email: antiques@ArchAngelAntiques.com.hk