WHERE Hong Kong - April 2014

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Hong Kong

APRIL 2 014

THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO

CRAFT BEER BARS EXPLORE WAN CHAI SPRING FASHION

EAT LIKE A LOCAL Where to go for quintessentially Hong Kong treats


Cuban Supperclub is Back!...Alfredo Rodrigues, Cuban Jazz Pianist hailed by Legendary Quincy Jones as one of the most profound musicians he’d ever seen will be performing with his band - 10 & 11 April

Get ready for an evening of Everything CUBA... Food, Music, Rum & more... Dinner & Show: HK$1280 + 10% service charge

Limited seating. To avoid disappointment, please book now! For further enquiries, please call 2537 1388

W W W. S E V V A . H K


where Hong Kong 4.2014 ®

THE GUIDE

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06 HOT DATES Hong Kong’s hottest concerts, shows and events

14 ART + CULTURE Top galleries and our pick of what’s happening

20 DINING Your A-Z of the best eats in town

26 DRINKS Our favorite places to sip a cocktail

38 WALKING TOUR Explore a neighborhood on foot

40 MAP Kowloon & Hong Kong Island

ALSO INSIDE 28 SHOPS + SERVICES From mega malls to local designers 34 NAVIGATE

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Fast facts and essential info

FEATURES

42 30 THINGS WE LOVE Hong Kong’s all-time top spots and best experiences

8 EAT LIKE A LOCAL The best of Hong Kong’s quintessential treats

Top craft beer bars in Hong Kong

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28 SPRING FLING Shop for the latest trends this season

ON THE COVER Photo: SCMP/Dickson Lee

26 MASTERING THE CRAFT

Hong Kong

APRIL 2 014

THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO

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CRAFT BEER BARS EXPLORE WAN CHAI SPRING FASHION

EAT LIKE A LOCAL

Wonton noodle soup is a popular Hong Kong treat. Find this dish at a humble local diner like Tsim Chai Kee, and order a side of veggies to complete the meal. Learn more on p.8.

Where to go for quintessentially Hong Kong treats

wheretraveler.com The website from the editors of Where Magazine. Get all the latest city buzz from our experts—info only the locals know.

A P R I L 2 0 14 I W HERE HONG K O N G

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MAGA Z INE

On the web: www.wherehongkong.com HK MAGAZINE MEDIA GROUP ACMG | ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION GENERAL MANAGER & PUBLISHER Greg Crandall DIRECTOR OF SALES Miko Chow STRATEGY SALES DIRECTOR Jan Cheng ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR Joe Ng ADVERTISING MANAGER Keiko Ko, Arthur Au Yeung ADVERTISING EXECUTIVES Winnie Cheng ADVERTISING COORDINATOR Sharon Cheung MARKETING MANAGER James Gannaban MARKETING & CIRCULATION EXECUTIVE Charmaine Mirandilla IT SYSTEMS MANAGER Derek Wong

HK | EDITORIAL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Zach Hines EDITOR Adele Wong STAFF WRITER Evelyn Lok CONTRIBUTORS William Hodson, Jayson Albano, Yannie Chan, Andrea Lo, Katie Kenny

HK | PRODUCTION PRODUCTION MANAGER Blackie Hui ART DIRECTOR Pierre Pang SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER Mike Hung GRAPHIC DESIGNER Iris Mak

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS HK | EXECUTIVE PRESIDENT Donna W. Kessler VICE PRESIDENT OF OPERATIONS Angela E. Allen CHIEF TRAVEL EDITOR Geoff Kohl GENERAL MANAGER, WHERE MAPS Christopher Huber DIRECTOR OF CIRCULATION Scott Ferguson NATIONAL MARKETING MANAGER Melissa Blanco

MVP | NATIONAL SALES VICE PRESIDENT, NATIONAL SALES Rick Mollineaux DIRECTOR OF PARTNERSHIPS & NATIONAL DIGITAL SALES Bridget Duffie NATIONAL SALES COORDINATOR David Gately

MORRIS COMUNICATIONS CHAIRMAN & CEO William S. Morris III PRESIDENT William S. Morris IV

MVP | CREATIVE CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson SENIOR REGIONAL EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Margaret Martin DESIGN DIRECTOR Jane Frey PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR Susan Strayer CREATIVE COORDINATOR Beverly Mandelblatt

MVP | MANUFACTURING & TECHNOLOGY DIRECTOR OF MANUFACTURING Donald Horton

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HOT DATES HONG KONG By Evelyn Lok

APRIL 5 Fluffy Stuff Relive your childhood bedtime rebellion at Chater Garden for International Pillow Fight Day. With this year’s event falling on a public holiday, it promises to be the biggest pillow fight yet. So grab your pillow, dress up in your jammies and wait for the signal for the feathery fun to begin! 4pm. Chater Garden, Central, tiny.cc/hk-pillow. Free.

APRIL 28

APRIL 9-12

A Rocky Start

Fight Night At this year’s I-1 World Muay Thai Grand Prix, some of the top international Muay Thai fighters will vie for the No. 1 spots in the 67kg and 51kg categories. Find out how the best and rising star fighters in Hong Kong fare against the champs of Thailand, Mongolia, Russia, Peru, England, and other countries. 6:30pm. Star Hall, KITEC, 1 Trademart Drive, Kowloon Bay. $200-1,000 from www.hkticketing.com. 6 WH E R E HO N G K O N G I A P R I L 2 0 14

“Colorado Catechism” is set in an alcohol rehab center in the Rocky Mountains. Struggling portrait painter Ty attempts to find inspiration again but he's fixated on the memory of Donna, a high school home economics teacher he hasn't seen for three years. He revisits how the two fought their alcoholic demons through wit and mutual trust—and tries to find a release from his past. This profound and witty twohander is directed by the Hong Kong Players mainstay Adam Walker. Apr 9-12, 7:30pm; Apr 12, 2pm. Fringe Club, 2 Lower Albert Rd.,Central. $176-220 from www.hkticketing.com.


HOT DATES APRIL 11-15

APRIL 9-12

She’s One Funny Lady Also known as podcaster TheDorkForest, Los Angeles-based Jackie Kashian is one smart, snarky and unabashedly geeky lady. With brilliant rapid-fire delivery, she'll pile on the observational humor about online dating, immortal pets, video games, and quip about her wacky childhood spent in rural Wisconsin. Three different locations. Check comedy.hk/jackiekashian for information.

THROUGH APRIL 7

Lying For Love Written in the 60s, “Boeing-Boeing” holds the Guinness World Record for the most performed French play in the world. This multiple-Tony Award-winning farce is about love and infidelity. Performed in English, it’s about the chaotic circumstances that successful Parisian architect Bernard must face as he juggles his time between three fiancées. Together with an old school friend and his ever-reliable housekeeper Bertha, the three are forced to ever sillier lengths to keep the women from meeting. Apr 9-12, 7:45pm; Apr 12-13, 3pm. Drama Theatre, Academy for Performing Arts, 1 Gloucester Rd., Wan Chai. $295-695 from www.hkticketing.com.

APRIL 10

APRIL 17 ONWARDS

The Reel Deal The 38th HK International Film Festival brings Hong Kong film buffs a celebration of local and overseas film talents with over 280 titles from more than 50 countries. Check out the highly anticipated "That Demon Within," directed by local film luminary Dante Lam—it’s one of his darkest crime thrillers to date. Visit www.hkiff.org.hk for details.

APRIL 12

Longing for Lang Lang

Let’s Take This Outside

Tram Jam

The HK Philharmonic teams up again with pianist Lang Lang after a sold-out concert last season. Lang Lang will play two concertos: Mozart’s graceful "17th in G," and Prokofiev’s "3rd in C," which requires the utmost dexterity and stamina to play—what better choice than to have the classical world’s kingpin in piano?

The internationally renowned outdoor theater festival format Shakespeare In the Park has arrived in Hong Kong—on a smaller scale. Check out the two mainstage shows at Cyberport’s Shakesepare In The Port: The “Taming of the Shrew” and “The Tragedy of Miss Julius Caesar,” which are inventive updates on the playwright’s classic productions.

Hong Kong Tramways is celebrating its 110th anniversary with three special screenings of iconic Hong Kong films at the Whitty Street Tram Depot. Catch a classic example of Hong Kong New Wave cinema this month: “Nomad” starring Leslie Cheung and Cecilia Yip, on April 12. Seats are first-come, first-serve, so get there early to bag your spots.

8pm. Concert Hall, Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. $780-1980 from www.urbtix.hk.

Apr 17-May 4, Podium, Cyberport, Pok Fu Lam. $150-300 from www.ticketflap.com.

7pm. Whitty Street Tram Depot, Connaught Rd. West, Kennedy Town. Free. A P R I L 2 0 14 I W HERE HONG K O N G 7

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Eat Like a Local Skip the fancy restaurants and head to the streets for the real treats. By William Hodson and Jayson Albano

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here’s no lack of options when it comes to eating in Hong Kong. Sure, we’re a city full of Michelin-starred restaurants, if you’re in the mood for fine dining. But there are also countless local eateries offering delicious, quintessentially Hong Kong dishes that you won’t be able to experience anywhere else— dishes that will help you get a true taste of Hong Kong. Here are six of them, to get you started.

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Dumpling Ground There are many varieties of dumplings in Chinese cuisine, served many different ways, but the wonton—thinly wrapped bundles filled with shrimp and minced pork—are particularly popular in Hong Kong. The wonton dumplings can be served on their own in shrimp-and-pork-based soup, but are more often accompanied by a bowl of handpulled egg noodles. They make a delicious midday snack or light meal. There are many opinions on which restaurants make the best wonton dumplings in town. Some people argue that bigger, fluffier wonton dumplings taste better, while some prefer the original small-sized variety that come densely packed with filling. No matter what your preference, you will find a wonton shop that meets those needs.

Try It Here: Tsim Chai Kee Tsim Chai Kee’s wonton noodles come with large and juicy dumplings drenched in a dark, meat-based broth. The shop is extremely popular, so be ready to queue come lunch hour. G/F, 98 Wellington St., Central, 2850-6471.


Cool Gruel Congee, a type of hot rice porridge, is a staple in many Asian cuisines. Cantonese-style congee is made by boiling rice with a lot of water until the rice breaks down and turns into a thick, gooey consistency. Congee is usually accompanied by condiments and other local snacks like fried dough sticks, pickles and salted duck eggs. Salt and soy sauce are added to the congee for flavor—or if you prefer something less intense, a dash of spring onions and white pepper works wonders. It is believed that back in the day, congee was an efficient way to prepare rice to feed as many mouths as possible— although nowadays, it is more a refined local delicacy than a humble gruel.

Try It Here: Fuk Kee Congee With a plethora of congee shops to choose from, you’ll never run out of different combinations to try while you’re in Hong Kong. For starters, head on down to Fuk Kee Congee in the heart of Mong Kok, where you can have yours paired with poultry, seafood, red meat. 104-106 Fa Yuen St., Mong Kok, 2385-1230.

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No Waffling Around

Mammy Pancake

Egg waffles, also known as “gai daan zai” in Cantonese, are one of Hong Kong’s most popular street snacks. The hot and fluffy egg-shaped pastries are based on a recipe used by local street hawkers who wanted to put their damaged eggs to good use, back in the 1950s. The waffles were originally cooked over a charcoal fire, but more efficient electric grills eventually became the equipment of choice—although occasionally, you’ll still see a street hawker preparing egg waffles the traditional way. With a batter made of eggs, sugar, flour and evaporated milk, the mixture is poured into a honeycomb-like mould consisting of over 20 egg-shaped units. The final product consists of conjoined puffs that are crisp and brittle on the outside, and soft on the inside. Over the years, hawkers have experimented with chocolate, sesame and other flavors, but the original version still remains most popular.

Try it Here: Mammy Pancake

Shop 2A, G/F, Whampoa St., Hung Hom.

Mammy Pancake offers a few varieties of egg waffles, the best being the chocolate chip version with a brittle outer layer and a molten chocolate center.

Lee Keung Kee This popular stall remains a favorite with the locals. G/F,178 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui.

What a Sweet Tart A popular sweet treat among Hongkongers, egg tarts are reminiscent of little golden suns, with their brown outer pastry crusts and yellow egg custard centers. These tasty desserts are actually not native to the local palate, but are instead modelled after the pastel de nata, a Portuguese custard treat, and the English custard tart. Made from eggs, milk, sugar, butter and flour, egg tarts are usually best served straight out of the oven, and the

fragile crusts can easily crumble if you grip them too hard. Sometimes, instead of traditional egg custard, you may find variations that use milk, ginger, chocolate, or even green tea to make up the filling. The crust is usually made of shortcake pastry but sometimes you might find puff pastry-like varieties available.

Try It Here: Tai Cheong Tai Cheong Bakery is a popular local bakery whose tasty tarts with a delightful, hard crust cost only $6 each. The branch on Lyndhurst Terrace is hard to miss—you’ll find scores of people queuing at the front of the shop each day, hoping to get their hands on one of the treats. 35 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2544-3475.

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Something Fishy Fish balls (“yu daan” in Cantonese)—or balls made of fish paste and typically served skewered—are a quick and easy snack in between meals, and served at numerous streetside snack stalls across the city. There are several styles of fish balls, but the most common ones have a deep-fried, goldencolored skin and are boiled in a mildly spicy curry broth before serving. You can usually find them sold alongside more adventurous street snacks such as pig intestines and stinky tofu. White-colored fish balls, on the other hand, are usually served at local greasy spoons accompanied with noodles and fish broth. These fish balls are often homemade and filled with 100 percent fish meat—as opposed to the streetside varieties that are sometimes combined with starch. Not sure how to tell a good fish

ball from a bad one? There is one tell-tale sign: its elasticity, or “bounce”. The fresher and higher quality the fish ball, the more resilient it feels when you chew down on it. Nam Kee

Try it Here: Nam Kee This multi-chain fish ball noodle shop is very popular with the locals, and you’ll see queues outside most of the branches come lunch hour. Dig into a bowl of fish broth-based vermicelli accompanied by fish cakes. G/F, 66-72 Stanley St., Central, 2576-8007.

Fei Jie Grab a skewer from this streetside shop for a true taste of local flavors. Shop 4A, 55 Dundas St., Mong Kok.

Roast with the Most In Cantonese, “char siu” literally means “fork roast,” and is the name given to the delicious slabs of barbecued pork that can be found at restaurants across the city. This method of barbecuing meat dates back hundreds of years, and originated in Guangdong province. Boneless cuts of pork have honey, five-spice, soy and hoisin sauce slathered over them and are then put into an oven for roasting. Once cooked, the pork takes on a shiny red glaze outside and a juicy, tender inside. In Hong Kong, you will find hunks of char siu hanging behind glass cases on streetside shops, along with other roasted meats. There are different cuts of char siu available, depending on its leanness or fattiness, but the most popular is a perfect balance between the two. Char siu served with rice or noodles is a staple meal for Hongkongers, and you can also find a variation of the dish—known as “char siu bao” (barbecued pork buns)—at dim sum restaurants across the city.

Try It Here: Joy Hing Roasted Meat Char siu is not hard to come by, but one of the most popular restaurants serving it is Joy Hing Roasted Meat in Wan Chai, where you’ll be able to order the meat served on a mound of rice and topped with sprinkles of chopped spring onions. Block C, G/F, 265-267 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2519-6639. A P R I L 2 0 1 4 I W HERE H ONG KO N G 11


Tel: 2730 1251


where

the guide An Egg-ceptional View Celebrate Easter with a sky-high afternoon tea set at the Ritz. Hosted by Café 103 (guess which floor it’s on), diners get to enjoy pastries, chocolates and savory treats like sandwiches at $358 per head ($788 for two). Diners will also receive a free gift— a pair of bunny ears or chocolate carrots— to bring home after the meal. Café 103, 103/F, The Ritz-Carlton, ICC, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2270.


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ART+CULTURE | The Guide

In the Spotlight Two awesome exhibitions. By Evelyn Lok

Euan McLeod

Hong Kong artists get inspired by "Supper at Emmaus"

ANTIQUES ARCH ANGEL ANTIQUES — The three-story shop houses large collections of Qing dynasty porcelain and restored 16th- to 18th-century Chinese furniture. Rare and authentic stone and bronze sculptures and buddhas, and terracotta sculptures from China and SouthEastern Asia are found in the viewing galleries, plus there are over 200 paintings in the extensive ancestral scroll collection. G/F, 53-55 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-6848. DRAGON CULTURE — Specializes in dinosaur egg fossils, Han Dynasty terracotta, Tang sculptures and Ming porcelain figures. 231 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2545-8098, www.dragonculture.com.hk. JOYCE GALLERY — Specializing in ancient sculptures and archaic bronzes from across China, Joyce displays a collection

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Peter Godwin

An Enlightened Meal

Nock Your Socks Off

Caravaggio's masterpiece, the "Supper at Emmaus," painted in the latter years of his life, comes to Asia for the very first time. It will be accompanied by four Hong Kong artists' works, inspired by the pioneering technique and style of the Baroque master. Look at installations, photography and traditional ink art by Chow Chun-fai, Wucius Wong, So Hing-keung and Tsang Kin-wah. Register for free admission tickets at Pacific Place at 88 Queensway, Admiralty.

Hong Kong financier, investor and artist Michael Nock established the Nock Foundation last year, aiming to promote and foster arts in the Asia-Pacific region. The two artists-in-residence this year are New Zealander Euan McLeod, and Australian Peter Godwin, who will exhibit vibrant works inspired by their travels in Hong Kong, Shanghai and Gweilin.

Through April 13, Asia Society Gallery, 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2103-9511.

of antiquities dating to the Shang dynasty, including ancient bronzes, stone carvings, gold and silver ware, jade, pottery and Buddhist works. It guarantees its descriptions of the period and history of its items and offers a full refund if the purchased item does not match the description. Shop 1, 123 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2545-1869, www.joycegallery.com. LAM & CO ANTIQUITIES — An impressive collection of fine Chinese antiquities which ranges from the Neolithic period to the Qing dynasty and includes bronze, gold and silver ware, pottery and porcelain. This shop is well-known by collectors, galleries and auction dealers worldwide and offers repair, restoration, authentication and shipping services. 2/F, 151 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2543-8877, www.lamantiquities.com.

April 2-21, Pao Galleries at the Hong Kong Arts Centre, 2 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2525-6880.

OI LING ANTIQUES — Oi Ling's Hollywood Road showroom houses a large collection of furniture from the 17th and 18th centuries, as well as authenticated pottery items dating as far back as the Neolithic era. 58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2815-9422, www.oilingantiques.com. WATTIS FINE ART — Specializes in antique maps of Asia, and historical photographs and prints of China, Hong Kong, and Southeast Asia. 2/F, 20 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2524-5302, www.wattis.com.hk.

GALLERIES 10 CHANCERY LANE GALLERY — Focusing on established and emerging international artists, 10 Chancery Lane consists of two large gallery spaces. It holds exhibitions of sculptures, paintings, photographs, installations and videos, as well as performances by renowned artists. G/F, 10 Chancery Lane, SoHo, 2810-0065, www.10chancerylanegallery.com.

You’ll find some of the best art and antique galleries in town along Hong Kong Island’s Hollywood Road.

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ART+CULTURE | The Guide AGNÈS B. LIBRAIRIE GALERIE — French fashion chain and long-time supporter of the arts, Agnès b. has a contemporary art space dedicated to showing the best from Asia and the world. G/F, 118 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2869-5505, www.agnesb.com. ARCH ANGEL ART GALLERY — Arch angel Art Gallery features a collection of contemporary Vietnamese and Southeast Asian paintings acquired directly from the artists. Some of the paintings are from founder Koos Groot's private collection. 30 Peel St., Central, 2851-6882. AP CONTEMPORARY— AP Contemporary is dedicated to supporting up-and-coming contemporary artists, especially those from developing countries like Brazil, Russia, India and China. Having said that, European and American talents are also represented at this space. 28 Tai Ping Shan St., Sheung Wan, 3105-2148, www.apcontemporary.com. ART BEATUS — Established in the early 1990s, Art Beatus features mainly original paintings and art by contemporary Chinese artists. Some of its collection has a retro slant, and uses elements of pop, propaganda, illustration and cartoon as vehicles for expression. Has branches in Vancouver and on Queen’s Road Central. G/F, 50 Peel St., Central, 2522-1138, www.artbeatus.com.

Asia Society Hong Kong

ASIA SOCIETY HONG KONG — Asia Society Hong Kong's big, brand-spankin’-new headquarters are in a beautifully refurbished former storehouse for British artillery and ammunition. Playing host to a myriad of lectures, exhibitions, performances, film screenings, tours, seminars and conferences—97 percent of which are open to the public—the Asia Society is a literal treasure trove. Closed Mon. G/F, 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2103-9511, www.asiasociety.org/hong-kong. BEN BROWN FINE ARTS — After 10 years at Sotheby’s and two more at a private gallery, Ben Brown and his wife sought to create a space that housed pieces reflective of their tastes—primarily on European modern and contemporary artworks. 301 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2522-9600, www.benbrownfinearts.com.

boasts a lovely space and a carefully curated exhibition program. G/F, 248 Hollywood Rd., Central, 3571-8200, www.cbal.com.hk.

De Sarthe Gallery

DE SARTHE GALLERY — Specializing in the sale of 19th and 20th century masters, previous exhibitions have shown the works of art world greats such as Miro, Picasso and Chu Teh-chun, just to name a few. First opening in Paris in 1977 and branching out across the U.S. and Europe, de Sarthe finally opened its first Asian outpost in Hong Kong in 2011. 8/F, Club Lusitano, 16 Ice House St., Central, 2167-8896, desarthe.com. ESPACE LOUIS VUITTON — LV has been invading gallery spaces for the past half decade, stirring unrest in the hearts of hard-line art critics but appreciation in the eyes of those beholders who’re able to look past reservations about brand-name commercialism. Espace Louis Vuitton, Louis Vuitton Mansion, 5 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 8100-1182. GAGOSIAN GALLERY — With 14 galleries and counting, the famed Gagosian has chosen Hong Kong as its gateway to Asia. They opened their doors in January 2011 with a bang, featuring an all-new exhibition by Damien Hirst—Gagosian only exhibits the crème-de-lacrème of the art world. Closed Mon. 7/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2151-0555, www.gagosian.com.

Opera Gallery

OPERA GALLERY — Opera Gallery features works by world-famous international artists, including Picasso, Chagall, Salvador Dali, Gerard Rancinan and Lita Cabellut, among others. W Place, 52 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-1208, www.operagallery.com. PUERTA ROJA — Puerta Roja was established to promote Latin American art and artists to the Hong Kong audience. Drawings, etchings, glasswork and sculptures are all featured here. Shop A, G/F, Wai Yue Building, 15-17 New St., Sheung Wan, 2803-0332. PICTURE THIS — The city’s largest affordable art gallery specializes in posters, antique maps, prints and early photographs of Hong Kong and China. It also carries antiquarian and secondhand books about Asia, first editions of modern literature, prints and photographs for children’s rooms, and sporting prints. Suite 1308, 13/F, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2525-2820, www.picturethiscollection.com.

Galerie Du Monde

GALERIE DU MONDE — Galerie du Monde hosts exhibitions by Chinese artists including Li Shuang, Le Longyao, Yu Xiaohui, Hon Chifun and Pan Xun. Its conservation studio provides a complete restoration service for works of art on paper and canvas. Shop 108, 1/F, Ruttonjee Center, 11 Duddell St., Central, 2525-0529, www.galeriedumonde.com.

THE CAT STREET GALLERY — Showcasing contemporary and modern art in a variety of mediums, Cat Street exhibits emerging and established artists from around the world. 222 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2291-0006, www.thecatstreetgallery.com.

GROTTO FINE ART — Curated by Henry Au-yeung, a specialist in 20th-century Chinese art history, this gallery represents local artists, with an interest in new and avant-garde art forms. You’ll find paintings, sculptures, prints and photography, mixed-media and installation pieces. 2/F, 31C-D Wyndham St., Central, 2121-2270, www.grottofineart.com.

CONTEMPORARY BY ANGELA LI — Perhaps best known for introducing Chinese artists Chen Jiagang and Liao Yibai to the art world, CBAL

LEHMANN MAUPIN GALLERY — With the original branch in New York and with its reputation of supporting contemporary

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art and culture, the Lehmann Maupin Gallery opened its doors here on March 14. Architect Rem Koolhas designed the gallery, making sure to keep the historic columns in the Pedder Building intact. Room 407, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central.2530-0025, www.lehmanmaupin.com.

Plum Blossoms Gallery

PLUM BLOSSOMS GALLERY — Recognized for its exhibitions of contemporary Asian art as well as an outstanding collection of museum-quality ancient textiles, Plum Blossoms is an established platform for the promotion of both ancient and modern arts. 14/F, Cheung Tak Building, 30 Heung Yip Rd., Wong Chuk Hang, 2521-2189, www.plumblossoms.com. RED SQUARE GALLERY — Red Square Gallery is a window into Contemporary Russian Art. Expanding into four branches, the gallery is dedicated to bringing creative and dynamic artwork to Hong Kong. Shop 2, G/F, 1A Wong Nai Chung Rd., Happy Valley. 2838-0040, www.redsquare-gallery.com. Main branch in Stanley.


Hong Kong

APR IL 2013

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ART+CULTURE

White Cube

WHITE CUBE — One of the world’s top contemporary galleries opened its first non-UK outpost in Hong Kong in March of 2012. The gallery represents many members of the Young British Artists (YBA) movement, who are known for their shock factor, confrontational nature and use of disposable materials—for instance, Damien Hirst’s famous dead shark suspended in formaldehyde. Closed Sun-Mon. G-1/F, 50 Connaught Rd. Central, 2592-2000, www. whitecube.com. ZEE STONE GALLERY — Zee Stone, established in 1991, exhibits a wide range of contemporary artists from mainland China, using both ink and color on paper and oil on canvas. The gallery’s exhibitions reflect the rich diversity of contemporary Chinese art, including abstract landscapes, realistic portraits, paintings on rice paper by traditionally trained Chinese masters and new work by a younger generation in acrylic and mixed media. G/F, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2810-5895, www.zeestone.com.

MUSEUMS FLAGSTAFF HOUSE MUSEUM OF TEAWARE — Located in Flagstaff House, the oldest surviving colonial building in the territory, and once the home of the commander-inchief of British forces in Hong Kong, the museum houses a prized Asian teaware collection. It’s also home to Lock Cha Tea House, which serves myriad varieties of tea and delicate vegetarian dim sum in a cute Chinese-style setting. Closed Tue. 10 Cotton Tree Drive, Hong Kong Park, Central, 2869-0690, www.hk.art.museum. HONG KONG FILM ARCHIVE — A repository of all things related to Hong Kong films, the Archive contains lots of movies, conservation labs, a resource center, exhibition hall and a cinema. Closed Tuesdays. 1/F, 50 Lei King Rd., Sai Wan Ho, 2739-2139. HONG KONG HERITAGE MUSEUM — This modern museum is devoted to preserving the city’s historical, art and cultural heritage. It features permanent exhibitions on the New Territories, Cantonese opera and a Children’s Discovery Gallery. Closed Tues. 1 Man Lam Rd., Sha Tin, 2180-8188, www.heritagemuseum.gov.hk 18 WH E R E HO N G K O N G I A P R I L 2 0 1 4


ART+CULTURE

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What happened at the Pinewood Battery? *

Hong Kong Maritime Museum

HONG KONG MARITIME MUSEUM — This museum holds semi-permanent and special exhibitions tracing Hong Kong's growth into a major world port, and the contributions made by China and the West to the development of ships, maritime exploration, trade and naval warfare. Central Ferry Pier No. 8, 3713-2500, www.hkmaritimemuseum.org. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF ART — One of the city’s largest museums houses fine examples of ancient Chinese art from the Han to the Qing dynasties. The exhibition galleries regularly showcase contemporary and international works. 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-0116, www.hk.art.museum. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF HISTORY — This fascinating museum explores 6,000 years of Hong Kong history, from the Neolithic to the post-war period, with recreations of prehistoric scenes and the early colonial era. Closed Tue. 100 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-9042, hk.history.museum.

Hong Kong Museum Of Medical Sciences

HONG KONG MUSEUM OF MEDICAL SCIENCES — Located in an elegant brick building, this museum charts the development of medicine in the city. It was the first to focus on both Western and traditional Chinese approaches to healthcare. Closed Mon. 2 Caine Lane, MidLevels, 2549-5123, www.hkmms.org.hk. LAW UK FOLK MUSEUM — Law Uk, which means “Law’s House” after its original owner, is an 18th-century, Qing-dynasty Hakka village house, complete with furnishings and artifacts. Free admission. Closed Thu. 14 Kut Shing St., Chai Wan, 2896-7006, www.hk.history.museum. LEI CHENG UK HAN TOMB MUSEUM — Housing a 2,000-year-old tomb with four chambers, this is one of the city’s most fascinating monuments. Closed Thu. 41 Tonkin St., Sham Shui Po, 2386-2863, hk.history.museum.

*Learn about this and other fascinating facts in

Historical Hong Kong Hikes A guide to 15 remarkable treks, detailing the rich history of the SAR’s peaks, valleys and urban neighborhoods

In all major bookstores now! Or order yours at: www.historicalhkhikes.com

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DINING | The Guide

Made In Hong Kong These homegrown establishments offer everything from Hong Kong-made wine to coconut ice-cream. By Yannie Chan Gu Fah Bakery Hoping to bring something new to the traditional Chinese pastries industry, Gu Fah Bakery offers Chinese snacks made with modernized traditional recipes. The brand’s baked goods, especially the phoenix rolls and sesame cakes, boast a formula with less oil and sugar. Most exciting, however, is that they brought back the harder-to-find “husband cake,” a Chinese pastry with roast pork fillings. The bakery’s delicate packaging also makes for a perfect souvenir.

Kam Cheung Hoo

Kam Cheung Hoo

8th Estate

Happy Cow

Shop 704, 7/F, iSquare, 63 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2941-0131, www.gufahbakery.com.

O’Beans O’Beans’ soy milk is healthy, made with organic soy beans and free of preservatives and artificial flavorings. But there’s an even more compelling reason to support the brand: it’s produced by the New Life Psychiatric Rehabilitation Association and made by people who are recovering from mental illness. At the back of each bottle, there is the story of one of the people working on the production line. The unusual rectangular bottles are the result of a collaboration with locally made toiletries brand So…Soap, and they’re specially designed to double up as soap containers after you’ve finished with them. Available at ThreeSixty at Elements Mall in West Kowloon, and Ikeas across the city. Shop 1090, 1/F, Elements, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2327-4931.

8th Estate Winery

Kam Cheung Hoo

Well-equipped local urban winery The 8th Estate Winery makes its wine right here in the city, as the founders believe that wine doesn’t travel well. After sourcing the finest grapes from across the globe, the winery produces quality tipples and leaves them to age in their French and American oak barrels. The 8th Estate is temporarily halting daily tours and private tastings until they move to a new location in about a few months—but worry not, you can still buy wines both at the winery and online.

Established in the 50s, Kam Cheung Hoo is a reputable supplier of Chinese preserved sausages. Made with top-quality pork, their preserved sausages are perfectly flavored and free of preservatives. The shop has also introduced preserved sausages with different amounts of fatty pork, if you’re after a leaner flavor. Call ahead before you visit, as they’re mainly a wholesaler and are not always fully stocked.

Room 306, 3/F, Harbour Industrial Centre, 10 Lee Hing St., Ap Lei Chau, 2518-0922, www.the8estatewinery.com.

Happy Cow

O’Beans

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Room 3B, Kam Tim Industrial Building, 135 Connaught Rd. West, Central, 2817-1812, www.kamcheunghoo.com.hk.

Founded by a vegan couple with a passion for ice cream, Happy Cow whips up dairy-free, all-natural ice cream. There are 17 flavors ranging from banana caramel swirl and mint chocolate chip to lime and coconut. The secret to the animal-friendly recipe? Coconut cream, which even boosts your levels of “good” cholesterol. Needless to say, Happy Cow’s ice creams are free of soy, gluten and artificial anything. Buy it by the scoop or in pints online, or from one of their stockists all over Hong Kong Island. www.happycowhk.com.


DINING

Top Nosh Two exciting new restaurants. By Adele Wong

Mott 32

Mott 32

Mott 32

Nur

Restaurant empire Maximal Concepts has come up with a swank 170-seater Chinese diner called Mott 32, specializing in Beijing, Sichuan and Cantonese dishes such as Peking duck, cheung fun and things with sizzling red chilis scattered all over them. Dim sum is available, and you might find some creative twists on classics—black truffles or cinnamon might make an appearance in their beef short ribs or barbecued pork.

At the helm of Prive group’s latest restaurant venture is chef Nurdin Topham, whose illustrious resume includes a stint on the Noma houseboat in Copenhagen, aka the Nordic Food Lab. Chef Nurdin will be focusing on a very particular type of fine dining at Nur, sourcing as many local ingredients as possible from Hong Kong’s very own farms, and creating delightful dishes that, among other feats, really highlight the versatility of plant-based produce. That’s not to say Nur will be a vegetarian restaurant: far from it.

Standard Chartered Building, 4-4A Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2885-8688.

ADMIRALTY

CAUSEWAY BAY

AMMO — Western. $$$ Tapas and pastas can be had at this posh Asia Society eatery housed in a former British army magazine compound. 9 Justice Drive, 2537-9888.

HOORAY — Italian. $$ Al fresco drinks and dining in a casual setting complete with a magnificent harbor view. Shop P502, 5/F, World Trade Center, 280 Gloucester Rd., 2895 0885.

DAN RYAN’S — American. $$$ Dan Ryan’s prides itself on Chicago-style chow. Shop 112, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2845-4600.

IPPUDO — Ramen. $ Japan’s famous chain serves ramen in bowls so enormous they should be called cauldrons, with a meaty, savory broth, tender pork pieces, springy noodles and tangy spring onions topped with fungus and bean sprouts. 2/F, 8 Russell St., 2892-2387.

METROPOL — Dim sum. $ Beef balls, steamed shrimp dumplings, pork-and-shrimp dumplings, stuffed rice rolls and other Hong Kong specialties are wheeled around in traditional trolleys for an authentic dim sum experience. 4/F, United Centre, 95 Queensway, 2865-1988. NICHOLINI’S — Italian. $$$$ This restaurant gets kudos from honest-to-goodness Italians, and that’s good enough for us. 8/F, Conrad International Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2521-3838. PETRUS — French. $$$$ This place can best be equated with a fine wine: expensive but so pleasing to the palate that it’s worth the money. The décor is a bit ostentatious, but the opulence suits the magnificent view. 56/F, Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2820-8590.

MANGO TREE — Thai. $$-$$$ Somehow, in the middle of bustling Causeway Bay, in a high-rise chock-full of other restaurants and bars, Mango Tree manages to be an oasis of dim lighting, carefully placed flowers and good Thai food. 5/F, Cubus, 1 Hoi Ping Rd., 2577-0828. SORABOL — Korean. $$ The smell wafting from the open barbecues in the middle of each table will get your appetite going— which is a good thing, since you’ll want to try everything. 18/F, Lee Theatre Plaza, 99 Percival St., 2881-6823. TOTT’S — Modern Asian/Western. $$$-$$$$ Sophisticated décor, harbor-view seats,

Nur

Patrons can still enjoy lots of seafood and meat—but instead of only having these dishes to look forward to, even the meat-free options on Nur’s menu are created with intense precision and effort, rather than as an afterthought. 3/F, Lyndhurst Tower, 1 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2850-6826.

and perfectly crafted entrees are the hallmark here. The attentive service also deserves special mention. 34/F, The Excelsior, 281 Gloucester Rd., 2837-6786.

CENTRAL & LAN KWAI FONG AMBER — Modern French. $$$$ Modern, inventive French cuisine meets attentiongrabbing decor. 7/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2132-0066. BRICKHOUSE — Mexican. $$. Imagine street-side Mexican combined with hipster-chic décor and upbeat music. Phone reservations not allowed and queues form quickly at peak hours so early arrival recommended. G/F, 20A D’Aguilar St. BOQUERIA — Spanish. $$$ Feast on tasty tapas and bomba rice paellas at this chain from New York. 7/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., 23218681. CAPRICE — French. $$$$ Three Michelin Stars. Splurge on haute cuisine at this French restaurant staffed by chefs formerly of Le Cinq in Paris. The gorgeous interior includes floorto-ceiling windows. 6/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 3196-8860.

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DINING | The Guide THE PEAK THE PEAK LOOKOUT — International. $$$ Offering an alfresco terrace with a view, this restaurant features an open, bright and airy environment—more like a mountain lodge than a country club—and excellent fare. 121 Peak Rd., 2849-1000. Lung King Heen

Duddell’s

DUDDELL’S — Cantonese. $$$. Serves Chinese fusion by former T’ang Court Chef Siu Hin-chi. The art pieces on display are another highlight. 3-4/F, Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell St., 2525-9191.

LUNG KING HEEN — Cantonese. $$$-$$$$ Three Michelin Stars. The name means “view of the dragon” and the floor-to-ceiling windows make the case. Stylish décor, flawless service and traditional as well as innovative dishes only add to the appeal. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 3196-8880.

FATTY CRAB — Southeast Asian. $$$. A branch of the popular Fatty Crab Restaurant in New York. Expect a delectable mix of Southeast Asian flavors. 11-13 Old Bailey St., 2521-2033. INAGIKU — Japanese. $$$ The Hong Kong branch of one of Japan’s oldest and bestknown restaurants, it lives up to the buzz: authentic, delicious and quiveringly fresh. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 2805-0600. ISLAND TANG — Cantonese. $$$$ Shanghai Tang founder David Tang’s art-deco dining space is a welcome bright spot amid Central’s modern office towers, with top local cuisine to match. Shop 222, 2/F, The Galleria, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2526-8798. ISOLA BAR & GRILL — Italian. $$$$ The glam factor is off the scale, with stunning harbor views and high ceilings, not to mention handmade pastas, pizzas, risottos and more. Shop 3071-75, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., 2383-8765.

REPULSE BAY SPICES — Pan-Asian. $$$ Below a glassy high-rise, this restaurant is devoted to showcasing the “fabled ingredients of the exotic food of the East.” It also offers a fantastic view of the South China Sea and the sandy shores below. G/F, The Arcade, 109 Repulse Bay Rd., 2292-2821. THE VERANDAH — Continental/International. $$$ Book brunch in time to get a seat at this popular spot. On other days, the a la carte menu never disappoints. Closed Mon. 109 Repulse Bay Rd., 2292-2822.

SOHO Mayta

MAYTA — Peruvian. $$$ Indulge in colorful and multi-textured dishes like seafood ceviche at one of LKF’s most popular new restos. 3/F, Grand Progress Building, 15-16 Lan Kwai Fong, 2790-0928. PIERRE — French. $$$$ Masterminded by threeMichelin-star chef Pierre Gagnaire, this is a bastion of fine French dining. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4001.

JASHAN — Indian. $$ Immediately impressive, with dim lighting, vermilion walls and colonial furnishings, Jashan offers an extensive menu, delicious food and hotel-level service. 1/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., 3105-5300. POSTO PUBBLICO — American Italian. $$$ Hip Greenwich Village types come to get their fill of such dishes as veal meatballs and sandwiches of homemade mozzarella, eggplant and lashings of balsamic vinegar. 28 Elgin St., 2577-7160.

Yardbird

Sevva

L’Atelier De Joel Robuchon

L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON — French. $$$$ The Frenchman named “Chef of the Century” by Gault Millau designs authentic dishes with exquisite finesse and precision, which are then turned out by highly trained chefs in the open kitchen. Shop 315 & 401, 4/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2166-9000. LIN HEUNG LAU— Cantonese. $$ The setup has changed little in more than 50 years and it still remains a popular hangout for those craving a bit of old Hong Kong nostalgia and really, really good food. Most people come here for daytime dim sum, but dinner’s great too. 160-164 Wellington St., 2544-4556. 22 WH E R E HO N G K O N G I A P R I L 2 0 1 4

SEVVA — Contemporary. $$$$ The brainchild of local socialite Bonnie Gokson, this 22,000-square-foot penthouse restaurant comes with a buzzing wraparound terrace. The elegant eatery serves dishes drawn from Cantonese, Shanghainese, Indian and British culinary concepts. 25/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., 2537-1388.

YARDBIRD — Yakitori. $$$$ This is a no-frills yet achingly modern two-story yakitori joint in a trendy corner of the district. The skewers are mostly chicken-based, and taken from every part of the chicken’s body from the heart to the skin. Don’t forget to sample the house sake. 33-35 Bridges St., 2547-9273.

TSIM SHA TSUI

YELLOW DOOR KITCHEN — Sichuan. $$ Hong Kong’s first private kitchen, this favorite has been serving up fiery Sichuan cuisine since the early 1990s. 6/F, Cheung Hing Commercial Building, 37 Cochrane St., 2858-6555. ZUMA — Japanese. $$$$ This is one goodlooking restaurant, split over two floors and linked by a sumptuous staircase. It’s the local branch of London’s famed eatery, offering a sophisticated twist on the traditional izakaya. 5-6/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3657-6388.

Angelini

ANGELINI — Italian. $$$-$$$$ With Italian native Marco Medaglia at the helm, Angelini serves up unpretentious food, with an emphasis on ingredients air-freighted from Italy three times a week. Also has a great harbor view. Mezzanine, Kowloon Shangri-La, 64 Mody Rd., 2733-8750.


DINING

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FELIX — Fusion. $$$$ Still one of the swankiest restaurants in town, with Philippe Starck décor, modern food and famous bathrooms. It’s glam, contemporary and kid-free. 28/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, 2696-6778. FOOK LAM MOON — Cantonese. $$$$ Devotees swear this place serves the best Cantonese cuisine in the world. It’s been the place to go for southern Chinese delicacies for more than five decades. 55 Kimberley Rd., 2366-0286. HUTONG — Northern Chinese. $$$$ Dark wood furnishings and a fabulous harbor view make for a modern-day Chinese dining hall. The food is beautifully presented northern Chinese haute cuisine. 28/F, 1 Peking Rd., 3428-8342. MORTON’S OF CHICAGO — Steak. $$$$ With huge slabs of prime, aged beef accompanied by what looks like the winning entries in a hard-fought vegetable show, Morton’s is one of the best steak restaurants in Hong Kong. 4/F, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers, 20 Nathan Rd., 2732-2343.

Nobu

NOBU — Japanese. $$$$ Mind-blowingly artistic in presentation, design and execution, this famous restaurant deserves the hype. Sushi is a must, as is the amazing black cod. 2/F, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., 2313-2323. RUTH’S CHRIS — Steak. $$$$ American steakhouse, with USDA Prime cuts served alongisde rich sides like spinach au gratin and tempura onion rings. Shop 108-110, 1/F, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2366-6000.

Spoon

SPOON — French. $$$$ Chef Alain Ducasse’s restaurant has floor-to-ceiling windows, a fabulous harbor view and an innovative modern menu. Lobby, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., 2313-2323. T’ANG COURT — Cantonese. $$$$ This little gem serves some of the city’s finest Cantonese cuisine. 1/F, Langham Hotel, 8 Peking Rd., 2132-7898. A P R I L 2 0 1 4 I W HERE H ONG KO N G 23


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DINING

WHISK — Modern European. $$$ Whisk is known for its contemporary European dishes and extensive wine list that is relatively more affordable than other fine diners. 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., 2368-1111. YE SHANGHAI — Shanghainese. $$$ With upscale cuisine served in shareable portions, this is the place for Shanghainese dishes like camphor-smoked duck with pancakes. Also known for its interior full of fabulous chinoiserie. 6/F, The Marco Polo Hong Kong Hotel, 3 Canton Rd., 2376-3322.

WAN CHAI

Bo Innovation

BO INNOVATION — Asian. $$$-$$$$ Experimental cuisine pairing local ingredients with delicacies imported from across the world. Shop 13, 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Rd., 2850-8371.

Catalunya

d "� e ‹" Œ

"Â? I Causeway Bay 2/F, JP Plaza, 22-36 Paterson St. Reservations: 2881 8012 Wanchai 1/F, De Fenwick, 8-12 Fenwick St. Reservations: 3101 0418

www.outback.com.hk

Whampoa Shop 3A, G/F, Site 4, Whampoa Garden, Hunghom Reservations: 2766 2823

Tuen Mun Tsuen Wan

Whampoa Tsim Sha Tsui Wanchai

Tsim Sha Tsui East Taikoo Causeway Bay

Tsim Sha Tsui Shop 1, Level 2, 26 Nathan Rd. Reservations: 3741 1728

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Tsim Sha Tsui East Shops 23-28, Upper Ground Floor, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd. Reservations: 2311 7800 Tsuen Wan Shops 3-5, Level 2, Discovery Park Shopping Centre, 398 Castle Peak Rd. Reservations: 2940 0682 Taikoo Shops G9-G10, G/F, Kornhill Plaza, 1 Kornhill Rd. Reservations: 2560 8246 Tuen Mun Shop 2016-2017, 2/F, Phase 1, Tuen Mun Town Plaza Reservations: 2426 3918

CATALUNYA — Spanish. $$$$ This 7,500 square feet of restaurant and bar space offers Catalan-style dishes such as roasted suckling pig and lobster rice. G/F, Guardian House, 32 Oi Kwan Rd., 2866-7900. MADAM SIXTY ATE — European. $$$ At this posh eclectic eatery, an open kitchen faces the diners, with chefs readying exquisitely prepared dishes scurrying around. Shop 8, 1/F, The Podium, J Senses, 60 Johnston Rd., 2527-2558. THE PAWN — British. $$$ Serving fabulous food in a faithful restoration of an 1888 landmark building, The Pawn houses a bar and a restaurant with a roof and a breezy balcony overlooking Johnston Road. The menu has modern British fare with a luxurious twist. 2/F, 62 Johnston Rd., 2866-3444. WOOLOOMOOLOO — Australian/New Zealand. $$$ This steakhouse is several places at once: a laid-back wine bar and a casual drinks terrace on the rooftop, and a fine-dining steakhouse below. 31/F-Rooftop, The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Rd., 28936960.


7$67( 2) 7+( &,7< SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Spice features the

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“Bollywood and Belly Dance Night’’,

a regular performance by two belly dancers, held every Thursday at 8:30pm .

* for dine-in and a la carte menu only We provide fine Thai, Indian and Malay cuisine with good selection of fine wines. Come experience our flavours of coriander, cumin, chili and lemongrass. Spice up your evening with friends!

Our chefs have also come up with a special menu to swing and sway to the diners’ delight of this groovy atmosphere.

www.spice-restaurant.hk 2/F, No.1 Knutsford Terrace, Tsim Sha Tsui, Tsim Sha Tsui Kowloon. Reservations: 2191 9880 / 2191 9886 Daily Opening Hours: Lunch: Mon – Sun 12nn – 3pm Dinner: Sun – Thu 6pm – 11pm Fri – Sat 6pm – 11:30pm

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DRINKS | The Guide

Mastering the Craft Five bars that serve craft beer—the tipple du jour. By Andrea Lo

Rockabilly Rockabilly offers something a little different from its Lan Kwai Fong surrounds. There’s a good range of craft beers from breweries in the US, the UK, South Africa and more. Try beloved brews such as Anchor’s Liberty Ale, Founders IPA and Kona’s easy-drinking Big Wave golden ale. 12 Lan Kwai Fong, Central, 2869-0099.

The Roundhouse Taproom

Tipping Point Brewing Co.

There are 70 draught and bottled beers at The Roundhouse. Of the 24 varieties on tap, you can expect a huge selection of microbrews and some lesser-known labels. Of course, you’ll find some of the usual suspects from the US and Japan, but Roundhouse is also home to rarer finds from countries such as Lithuania. Buy beers at the shop downstairs, or make yourself at home at the bar.

Tipping Point is the most recent bar to join the craft beer craze that seems to be claiming a corner of Hong Kong’s nightlife scene. Tipping Point is different from other beer-centric bars in that it serves up a constant stream of experimental brews. Even better? Beer lovers imbibing in groups can book a table that has its own beer tap!

62 Peel St., Central, 2366-4880.

BARS & CLUBS

72 Wyndham St., Central, 2868-2892.

AQUA SPIRIT — For cocktails with a killer vista, you can do no better than this swanky high-rise venue with an eagle’s eye view of the harbor. 30/F, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288. AZURE — Stunning view, minimalist blue décor and great cocktails. 29/F, LKF Hotel, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 3518-9330.

Angel’s Share

121BC — This import from Sydney, Australia offers biodynamic wines from Italian producers. 42-44 Peel St., Central, 2395-0200. ANGEL’S SHARE — This unique drinking loft is specifically designed for whisky lovers. Sourced from Scotland to Japan, there’s enough aged golden liquid here to suit even the most discerning single-malt drinkers. 2/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-8388.

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BEIJING CLUB — This impressive megaclub recently celebrated its sixth anniversary and is the biggest in town. Expect wet-look vinyl walls, gold-plated bathrooms and a youthful crowd. 2-3/F & 5/F, Wellington Place, 2-8 Wellington St., Central, 2810-9983. BLCKBRD — This chilled-out spot has an official “no loud music” policy, making it the perfect place for a few low-key drinks. Located on the sixth floor, the outdoor terrace is a serene place to watch the world go by. 6/F, 8 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2545-8555.

Mana Did you know that uber-healthy “fast slow food” restaurant Mana offers organic beers? There’s Pilsner, Estrella Damm Daura and Germany’s Cannabia beer to choose from. The bottles here are a great departure from the usual flavors, plus there’s something a little less guilt-inducing about drinking organic. 92 Wellington St., Central, 2851-1611.

De België With more than 90 types of beers here, it’s safe to say you’ll find something to enjoy at De België. Beer lovers can easily order their favorites, while De België’s friendly staff members are more than happy to recommend new Belgian brews. Try the La Chouffe, an unfiltered blonde beer, Delirium Tremens golden ale or Bush’s blonde (not to be confused with the American Busch beer). Don’t leave without test-driving the Trappist beers, which are made in eight monasteries in Belgium, Germany and Holland, and often lauded as some of the best in the world. G/F, 21 Elgin St., Central, 2869-8388.

BLUE BAR — The upscale Blue Bar is a big hit with the cocktail set. Yes, the martinis are worth getting dressed up for. Lobby, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8888. CAFÉ GRAY DELUXE — Beside the seductively stretched bar are cozy booths for intimate lounging, and its 49th-floor perch guarantees breathtaking harbor views. Cocktail lovers should try the Hong Kong Highball. 49/F, The Upper House, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106. CENTRAL WINE CLUB — This exclusive spot on Wyndham Street was designed with oenophiles in mind. Luxe, modern Baroque surrounds keep pace with the slow jazz and contemporary tunes. 3/F, Sea Bird House, 22-28 Wyndham St., Central, 2147-3448. CLUB@28 — This stylish bar has killer views, deadly cocktails and its very own outdoor oasis called The Pavilion. It’s members only, but you can join on arrival and it’s free. 28/F, Crowne Plaza Hotel, 8 Leighton Rd., Causeway Bay, 3980-3300.

For weekly event listings, pick up a free copy of HK Magazine (available at bars, restaurants and coffee shops).

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DRINKS DRAGON-I — Watch the bold and the beautiful work the celeb-studded room. It’s usually packed with models, especially on Wednesday nights. Podium, The Centrium, 60 Wyndham St., Central, 3110-1222.

M BAR — Set against the heights of Hong Kong’s skyline, the Mandarin Oriental’s M Bar makes for a ravishingly chic hangout. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4002.

STAUNTON’S — Considered the best “peoplewatching spot” in Hong Kong, Staunton’s has the right equation for a chill evening drink. It also has an eclectic menu. 10-12 Staunton St., Central, 2973-6611.

EXECUTIVE BAR — So quiet that the sound of a ninja’s sword slicing through silk would be cause for shushing. Well, not really, but it is quiet, Japanese and well-stocked with Scotch— the drink of the introspective man. 27/F, Bartlock Centre, 3 Yiu Wa St., Causeway Bay, 6710-2057.

MARTINI BAR — This stylish hotel bar has nightly entertainment, a range of cocktails beyond just martinis and is one of the few cigar lounges in town. G/F, The Royal Garden, 69 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2733-2995.

SUGAR — Sink into one of the sofas at this swanky rooftop bar and enjoy the amazing views of the harbor. 32/F, East Hotel, 29 Tai Koo Shing Rd., Quarry Bay, 3968-3738.

GRAPPA’S CELLAR — This bustling after-work spot features some of the city’s top jazz musicians. B/F, Jardine House, 1 Connaught Place, Central, 2521-2322.

MCSORLEY’S ALE HOUSE — Woody, Irish and vaguely Victorian, McSorley’s is the biggest pub in SoHo. 55 Elgin St., Central, 2522-2646. MO BAR — The bar at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental is a sleek, upscale addition to the nightlife scene. G/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2132-0077. OZONE — Located 118 floors above the ground, this watering hole boasts a superlative title: the highest bar in Hong Kong. This nightspot is a must-see, especially due to its drop-dead gorgeous lookout onto Victoria Harbour. 118/F, The Ritz-Carlton Hotel, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2263.

Jaa Bar

JAA BAR — Located in a small alleyway off of Peel Street, Jaa Bar combines comfort and charm for an exclusive experience. The centerpiece of the ornate enclave is a custom-made wooden bar pieced together from classical furniture pieces. 1 Pak Tsz Lane, Central, 2815-8887. KEE CLUB — A good concierge should be able to get you into this exclusive members-only club, where you can sip a cocktail and check out the Picassos, antiques and colonial-style service. 6/F, Yeung Kee Building, 32 Wellington St., Central, 2810-9000. L’ETAGE — With the feel of a true gentlemen’s club, this is a place for refined Hongkongers to sit back and relax with a traditionally made cocktail in one hand and a cigar in another. It’s worth coming back just to watch head bartender Katsuhisa Hirakawa hand-carve spheres of ice for whisky. 22/F, Macau Yat Yuen Centre, 525 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2522-5300. LE BOUDOIR — This Francophone hangout is all sultry drapes, chandeliers and velvet upholstery. The cocktails are stellar, too. B/F, 65 Wyndham St., Central, 2530-3870. LILY — Get buzzed in and out of Lily’s fabulous secret room, the Blind Pig. Aesthetes will be delighted that so much attention has been paid to the visual elements of the venue. 6/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-6166. LION ROCK — Lion Rock is the place to unwind and relax while having one (or more) of 193 signature cocktails. Enjoy the awesome view and weekly wine and whisky tastings. 3/F, Royal Plaza Hotel, 193 Prince Edward Rd. West, Mong Kok, 2622-6167.

QUINARY — Grab molecular cocktails in a chilledout lounge off Hollywood Road. Be impressed by local mixologist Antonio Lai’s creative drinks list. G/F, 56-58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-3223.

Red Bar

RED BAR — Located on a terrace atop IFC Mall, this funky destination bar has a breathtaking public outdoor area with harbor views. 4/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance St., Central, 8129-8882. RIEDEL ROOM — The world’s first Riedel Room offers exclusive wines to be enjoyed in Riedel crystal glassware. Lobby, JW Marriott Hotel, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2841-3836. SAKE BAR GINN — Sake sommelier Ayuchi Momose is behind this upper-floor bar. In addition to serving 100 types of sake and 30 Japanese tapas, she also imports special sakes by microbreweries. Shop 4C, 4/F, Ho Lee Commercial Building, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2536-4355. SALON DE NING — Decadent Shanghai art deco lounge with live music Tue-Thu. UG/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2696-6705. SHORE — A chill outdoor space and one of the most extensive drinks selection in town. Newly renovated. 3/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2915-1638.

The Lawn

THE LAWN — This outdoor garden is a genuine urban oasis, exuding a serene, intimate vibe and illuminated entirely by a few candles. 6/F, The Upper House, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106. THE PARLOUR — The kitschy-chic bar sits betwixt the equally droll west and east dining rooms, and looks like an exotic dive in 70s London Chinatown. Hullet House, 2A Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3988-0101. THE PAWN — The modern British restaurant and bar, a former pawn shop, has an outdoor balcony from which to enjoy a view of Hong Kong’s 100-year-old trams. 62 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-3444. THE TONNO — This complex features a bar, a clubbing zone, a restaurant, a live music lounge and karaoke rooms, taking “allaround entertainment” to a whole new level. Head here for an epic marathon of dancing, drinking, Elton John hits, dart games and Shanghainese buns. 5 Tonnochy Rd., Wan Chai, 3125-3888.

Vibes

VIBES — The Mira hotel’s svelte alfresco drinks venue is home to a stunning secret garden. 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5999. VOLAR — Frequented by models and wannabes, Volar can be exclusive, but you can dance the night away to top DJs. B/F, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2810-1510. WOOLOOMOOLOO — This steakhouse outlet boasts a gorgeous rooftop with stunning views of Victoria Harbour and the Happy Valley horse racing track. 31/F, The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2893-6960. A P R I L 2014 I W HERE H ONG KO N G 27

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SHOPS+SERVICES | The Guide

Spring Fling

SHOPPING CENTERS APM — In the center of Kwun Tong, APM opens late (11am) but closes even later (2am). It boasts 150 shops, a cinema, more than 20 international restaurants and a convenient link to the MTR station. Millennium City 5, 418 Kwun Tong Rd., Kwun Tong, 3148-1200.

The hottest looks this season. By Katie Kenny Swing into spring with the freshest trends to hit our stores. Think pastels, flowers, tailored shorts and flirty skirts—but with an edgy makeover.

Elements

ELEMENTS — Two floors and a million square feet of retail heaven beneath Hong Kong’s tallest building, the ICC, this luxury mall offers international cuisine and world-class shopping. Other features include a cinema, ice rink and enormous roof garden. 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2735-5234.

Shirt, $1,000, Jack Wills Jacket, $6,890, Claudie Pierlot

Shorts, $2,280, Shanghai Tang

Dress, $3,290, Ba&sh @ Rue Madame

Claudie Pierlot Shop 3085B, 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2217-9677.

Jack Wills Shop L02, 77 Leighton Rd., Causeway Bay, 3105-1798.

Rue Madame Shop 3082A, 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2234-7880.

LAB Concept Queensway Plaza, 93 Queensway, Admiralty, 2118-6008.

Shanghai Tang 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333.

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Skirt, $1,100, MO&Co. @ LAB Concept

HARBOUR CITY — This enormous stretch of shops runs along Canton Road for what seems like miles. Its four levels of shops, services and restaurants sprawl across over 2 million square feet. 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2118-8601.

Hysan Place

HYSAN PLACE — This brand-new mall is a great one-stop shopping destination, with over 120 stores (including hard-to-find Japanese brands) and tons of high-quality dining options. 500 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2886-7222.

IFC Mall

IFC MALL — This popular shopping center is home to more than 200 international highend brands with Lane Crawford acting as an anchor. It also has a luxurious cinema, and some of the finest dining in the city. Easily accessible via MTR, Airport Express and Star Ferry. 8 Finance St., Central, 2295-3308. HORIZON PLAZA — It may not look promising but this is something of a mecca for bargain fashion, furniture and Chinese antiques. The industrial high-rise features Lane Crawford and Joyce outlets. Also look for homeware emporium Tequila Kola and antiques warehouse Shambala. 2 Lee Wing St., Ap Lei Chau, 2554-9089.

Almost all goods, apart from certain types of alcohol and tobacco, are tax-free.

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SHOPS+SERVICES | The Guide ISLAND BEVERLEY — Browse through closetsized boutiques offering the best of hip local designers. 1 Great George St., Causeway Bay, 2890-6823. THE LANDMARK — The Landmark is a fashion mecca centered around a five-story atrium. Don’t miss iconic London department store Harvey Nichols. 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3428-8086. LANGHAM PLACE — Occupying about 600,000 square feet, Langham Place houses fashion and lifestyle stores and more than 20 restaurants. It’s within walking distance of the Ladies’ Market and Fa Yuen Street. 8 Argyle St., Mongkok, 3514-9088, www.langhamplace.com.hk. LEE GARDENS — Divided into Lee Gardens and Lee Gardens Two, this luxury mall is stuffed with high-end retailers such as Gucci, Hermes, Louis Vuitton and more. Lee Gardens Two has children’s fashion shops, and there are plenty of restaurants to choose from. 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2907-2166, www.hysan.com.hk.

DAYDREAM NATION — A locally grown label that incorporates fashion with other art forms like theater, dance, music, film and visual arts. They offer their own collection of clothing and accessories as well as works from local artists and indie bands. Daydream Nation Circus Shop, 2/F, Hong Kong Arts Centre, 2 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2817-6313.

WUDAI SHIGUO — This shop in the trendy Star Street neighborhood is a collaboration between a group of local designers and stocks American vintage -style fashion and accessories. 9B1 St. Francis St., Wan Chai, 2528-3800.

DEPARTMENT STORES G.O.D.

G.O.D. — Some “Goods of Desire” for those searching for the perfect couch or unique home accessories. G-1/F, 48 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-1876.

Squarestreet

SQUARESTREET — Seriously hipster shoes and accessories. G/F, 15 Square St., Sheung Wan, 2362-1086. Lane Crawford

ONE PEKING — Satisfy your thirst for designer wear with Dior, Fendi, Miu Miu and Cartier. 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3417-3000. RISE COMMERCIAL BUILDING — A playground for hip, trendy and young fashionistas. 5-11 Granville Circuit, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-4723. TIMES SQUARE — One of Hong Kong’s largest malls, this 13-story complex contains more than 230 shops—including Lane Crawford, upscale Japanese supermarket City’super, Page One books and a cinema. 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2118-8900.

Tang Tang Tang Tang

LANE CRAWFORD — This Hong Kong institution is almost as old as the city itself, and just as fashionable. It’s stacked with must-have designer brands as well as handbags, shoes, silver, linen, crystal and everything in between. 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2118-3388.

TANG TANG TANG TANG — Sir David Tang's casual lifestyle store stocks everything from rice cookers to pyjamas. G/F, 66 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2525-2112. VIVIENNE TAM — Elegant, feminine contemporary dresses with a Chinese twist. Shop 209, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2918-0238.

SHOPS, BOUTIQUES AND LOCAL DESIGNERS

WALTER MA — Well-established designer offering luxury fashion. 174 Wellington St., Causeway Bay, 2838-7655.

BLANC DE CHINE — Modern Chinese luxury clothing and accessories for women and men. Shop 123, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2104-7934.

WESTERN MARKET — An Edwardian-styled building with restaurants and shops selling Chinese crafts and fabrics. 323 Des Voeux Rd. Central, Sheung Wan, 6029-2675.

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Joyce

JOYCE — Named after founder and Hong Kong’s first lady of fashion, Joyce Ma, this is the place for red-hot fashion and accessories, cult beauty brands and too-chic housewares. G/F, New World Tower, 18 Queen’s Rd. Central, 28101120; Shop 232, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2523-5944; Shop 106, Harbour City, 2-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-8128.

Harvey Nichols at Pacific Place

PRINCE’S BUILDING — Prince’s Building is linked by covered walkway to The Landmark, Chater House, Alexandra House and The Galleria. A cozy mixture of the uberfashionable, the artistic and the maternal, it also houses the excellent Oliver’s supermarket. 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2500-0555.

HARVEY NICHOLS — The Hong Kong branch of London’s department store is a haven of international brands, with a good restaurant— the Fourth Floor —and a fabulous beauty department. The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3695-3388.

KAPOK — Offers meticulously selected international and local brands for menswear, womenswear, bags and accessories, as well as lifestyle products. G/F, 5, St Francis Yard Wan Chai, 2549-9254. SPY HENRY LAU — Edgy and bold fashion for men and women. 1/F, 5 Cleveland St., Causeway Bay, 2317-6928.

PACIFIC PLACE — One of the most popular malls in Hong Kong, Pacific Place has four floors of upscale shops and restaurants anchored by a massive Harvey Nichols. There’s also a nice range of eateries and a multi-screen cinema. 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8900.

Wudai Shiguo

Shanghai Tang SHANGHAI TANG — Shanghai Tang specializes in a funky fusion of traditional and contemporary Chinese design. You’ll find kitsch accessories, great housewares, fun T-shirts, fashion for men and women and incredibly beautiful bespoke cheongsams. The brand-new flagship is worth a visit. 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333.



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SHOPS+SERVICES | The Guide SOGO — Japan’s most famous department store sits at one of the city’s busiest intersections. 555 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2833-8338.

SPAS CHUAN SPA — This stunning spa focuses on the individual needs of each client through traditional Chinese medicine and theories, including yin and yang. Its consultants are qualified in Chinese medicine, massage and naturopathy. 41/F, Langham Place Hotel, 555 Shanghai St., Mong Kok, 3552-3510, www.chuanspa.com.

and an extensive range of facial and body treatments in 23 rooms and suites. Other facilities include a 50-meter outdoor pool, fitness and exercise studios, a poolside grill restaurant and a tree-lined courtyard. 11/F, Grand Hyatt, 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2588-1234, www.hongkong.grand.hyatt.com.

The Swank

THE SWANK — Representing established designers as well as up-and-coming talents, The Swank has been one of the finest local fashion houses since 1955. It has 17 freestanding boutiques and points-of-sale in major department stores. Shop 103B, 1/F, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-0842.

CHINESE EMPORIUMS CHINESE ARTS AND CRAFTS — Stuffed with the best of Chinese crafts, from tablecloths to objets d’art to some incredible jade, this is one of the best places to stock up on gifts, porcelain, jewelry, cloth and fine antiques. 1/F, Silvercord, 30 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-4061. YUE HWA CHINESE EMPORIUM — Yue Hwa is a great place to pick up souvenirs and gifts, from acupuncture needles to Chinese Zodiac figurines. There is a good selection of cheongsams, tops and trousers tailored from quality silk. 143-161 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2739-3888.

TAILORS DAVID FASHIONS — G/F, Shop 15, Empress Plaza, 17-19 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-6884. L & K BESPOKE TAILOR — G/F, Mirador Mansion, 54-64 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2369-7278. NITA FASHIONS — G/F, 16 Mody Rd., Tsim vSha Tsui. 2721-9990, www.nitafashions.com. PUNJAB HOUSE — 5/F, Suite C, Golden Crown Court, 66-70 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-6612, www.punjabhouse.com.hk. RAJA FASHIONS — G/F, 34C Cameron Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-7624, www.raja-fashions.com.

Flawless

FLAWLESS — This all-in-one shop offers makeup and nail services as well as spa treatments in a spacious upper-level venue. 4/F, Sea Bird House, 22-28 Wyndham St., Central, 2869-5868. IYARA DAY SPA — This Central institution offers everything from manis and pedis to facials, waxing and massage treatments. 1/F, 26 Cochrane St., Central, 2545-8638. KIWI SPA — With light green glass, curved walls and soft light and gentle music, Kiwi offers quality foot and body massages that are affordable at the same time. iPads and headsets are available to use at your leisure while you're enjoying the treatments. 14/F, Century Square Building, 1-13 D'Aguilar St., Central, 2567-1333, www.kiwi-hk.com. MANDARIN SPA — This luxe retreat has eight private treatment rooms, including two couples’ suites, each with private steam shower and pool. Its therapies combine ancient and contemporary techniques, and specialist practitioners offer treatments that incorporate ayurvedic philosophies and traditional Chinese medicine. 24/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4888, www.mandarinoriental.com/hongkong. MEN’S SKIN CENTRE BY BELLA — This center has tailor-made treatments that focus on deep cleansing, acne treatment, and rehydration to brighten and improve your complexion. It also offers laser hair removal services. 9/F, The L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2526-6352, www.bellaskin.com. MIRASPA — It’s pampering for the 21st century. The Mira Spa is comfortably futuristic, with purple and pure white accents and an indoor pool decorated with twinkling lights. Facilities include a jacuzzi plus steam and sauna rooms— and nifty waterbeds in the pre-treatment room. B3/F, The Mira Hong Kong, 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5500, www.themirahotel.com.

REGAL FASHION — G/F, Shop 15, Houston Centre, 63 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-6007. SAM’S TAILOR — Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 90-94 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-9423. SHANIEL CUSTOM TAILOR — G/F, Shop B & C, Comfort Building, 86-88A Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2730-1251. 32 WH E R E HO N G K O N G I A P R I L 2 0 1 4

Plateau Spa

PLATEAU SPA — This whopping 80,000-squarefoot spa offers overnight accommodation

Sense Of Touch

SENSE OF TOUCH — This award-winning day spa boasts an extensive menu, featuring such services as a couple’s deep tissue and detoxifying massage, a rose hydrating cocoon body wrap and a “forever young” facial. The lush spa also offers a range of exclusive signature treatments, including the Elemis hot stone therapy for body and face. 1-5/F, 52 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2526-6918, www.senseoftouch.com.hk. THE PENINSULA SPA BY ESPA — This two-floor spa has sweeping harbor views. Designed by Henry Leung, the interior fuses contemporary and traditional Chinese elements. Much attention has been given to detail, including 100-percent Egyptian cotton robes and fully automated Clodagh Gemini treatment beds. 7/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2969-6682, www.hongkong.peninsula.com.

The Ritz-Carlton Spa

THE RITZ CARLTON SPA BY ESPA — Get pampered at the highest hotel spa in the world. Located on the 116th floor, this relaxing retreat looms over the city and offers majestic views of Victoria Harbour. Spa guests can also take a dip in the hotel's sky-high infinity pool after their treatments. 116/F, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2040, www.ritzcarlton.com/hongkong. THE SPA AT FOUR SEASONS — This urban sanctuary is everything you would expect from the Four Seasons: 22,000 square feet of sumptuousness, including Finnish saunas, an ice fountain, a crystal fountain, vitality pools and an amethyst crystal steam room. Two spa suites include a pool for two, day beds and a private bar. 6/F, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8900, www.fourseasons.com/hongkong. TEN FEET TALL — Go to Ten Feet Tall for a slightly different foot massage experience in an exotic ambience. The foot massage center features


SHOPS+SERVICES

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bright and sunny beach cabanas with pine, bamboo, natural marble and bright décor. The place’s signature treatments include genuine foot reflexology, shoulder and neck massage, pressure point massage and aromatic oil massage. 20-21/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2971-1010, www.tenfeettall.com.hk.

HAIR AIMEE AT THE SHANGRI-LA — Staffed by international stylists offering everything from bridal makeovers, haircuts, coloring and waves to manicures, pedicures and professional makeup application. 8/F, Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2918-1339. AIRPLAY BLOW DRY BAR — Get your hair and makeup done all at once at Airplay, and choose from different looks like “Sea Breeze” (wavy hair) or “Mojito” (playful curls). 7/F, W Place, 52 Wyndham St., Central, 2641-9888, www.airplaybar.com. QG PRIVATE I SALON — Located in the Four Seasons, the flagship of the Private I group is suitably beautiful, with floor-to-ceiling windows looking out onto an astounding harbor view. Expect to find yourself rubbing shoulders with politicians, tycoons and the jet set. 6/F, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 2521-0070, www.privatei.com.hk.

NAILS NAIL NAIL — This is the place for innovative nails, including gel nails, airbrushing and the truly decadent one-carat diamond manicure, which is by appointment only. It also offers waxing and temporary tattoos. Shop 1091A, 1/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2366-9322, www.nailnail.com.hk. NAIL SPA — Nail services and treatments for men and women are the specialty here, including French manicures and paraffin foot therapy. Gel and acrylic nails are available along with nail painting, embossed nail art, semi-precious gemstones, crystal embossing and graduated nail painting. 1/F, 8 Pak Sha Rd., Causeway Bay, 2478-9333, www.nailspa.com.hk.

The Loft

THE LOFT — A spin-off of The Nail Library in Sheung Wan, this new Central shop right by the escalators offers men’s barbering services, facials as well as hand and foot spa treatments—and of course, manicures and pedicures. 2/F, 26 Cochrane St., Central, 2618-8623. A P R I L 2 0 1 4 I W HERE H ONG KO N G 33


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TOURIST INFORMATION HONG KONG TOURISM BOARD — The Hong Kong Tourism Board is ready to answer all your questions about travel in Hong Kong. Look for visitor centers at the following locations: Hong Kong International Airport (at Buffer Halls A and B, Arrivals Level, Terminal 1); Lo Wu (Arrival Hall, 2/F Lo Wu Terminal Building); Kowloon (Star Ferry Concourse, Tsim Sha Tsui, open daily 8am-8pm); and The Peak Piazza (between The Peak Tower and The Peak Galleria, Hong Kong Island, open daily 9am-9pm). You can also call the Visitor Hotline (2508-1234) from 9am to 6pm. Visit www.discoverhonghong.com for descriptions of attractions, plus shopping, dining and touring tips. The website also has a comprehensive description of the month’s events and festivals, as well as virtual tours, e-cards, a photo gallery and handy downloadable apps for your phone.

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GET MOVING

OCTOPUS CARDS

Hong Kong has a great public transportation system called the MTR, as well as highly punctual, carefully scheduled buses (with their routes clearly printed in English). Renting a car can be a headache because roads can be confusing and parking costly. It’s cheaper and easier to take a taxi, ferry, tram, bus, hotel limousine, or even a helicopter.

These are “wave-and-go” stored-value cards used across all of Hong Kong’s transportation systems (apart from taxis), and in retail outlets like car parks and convenience stores.

TAXIS Taxis are readily available at reasonable prices. Be aware that drivers cannot pick up or drop off on roads marked with double yellow lines, and no waiting is allowed except on unmarked roads. Red taxis serve Hong Kong Island and Kowloon and can go anywhere in the territory. Green taxis cost less but only serve the New Territories. Similarly, blue taxis serve Lantau Island only. Drivers generally speak some English, but it is wise to get the hotel staff to write your destination in Chinese characters, or point to one of the destinations in this guide.

The size of a credit card, the Octopus is simply placed on the touch pads at the entrance to public transportation or the cash register in shops. Payment is automatically deducted. Cards can be refilled at MTR stations and any retail outlet that accepts them. Three types of Octopus cards are available. The “On Loan Octopus” costs $150, which includes a $50 deposit and $100 of stored value. The “Sold Octopus” costs $48, and does not include any stored value. The “Airport Express Travel Pass” costs $220/$300 and includes one/two single Airport Express journeys and three days of unlimited rides on the MTR, $20 stored value and a $50 deposit.

Trams have been a part of Hong Kong life for more than 100 years. With a $2.30 flat fare, they are still the cheapest way to get around.

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Think Pink

Hong Kong has two major bus companies:

A new lifestyle app makes navigating around Hong Kong easy-peasy for the LGBT community. By Jayson Albano

CITYBUS / NEW WORLD FIRST BUS — 2136-8888/2873-0818, www.nwstbus.com.hk.

KOWLOON MOTOR BUS — 2745-4466, www.kmb.hk.

SIGHTS & ATTRACTIONS AVENUE OF STARS — Fans of Hong Kong movies will find their heroes’ handprints permanently etched in concrete along the Avenue of the Stars. There's also a statue of martial artist Bruce Lee. Go at 8pm for the nightly Symphony of Lights. It's the only place where music plays over loudspeakers, although the light display can be seen around the city. Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront. BANK OF CHINA TOWER — I. M. Pei designed this 70-story building and bank headquarters to resemble stalks of bamboo. 1 Garden Rd., Central.

Looking for the most gay-friendly establishments in Hong Kong? Try downloading the Pink Dollar lifestyle app, designed especially for the LGBT community and recently launched in our city. Free for iPhone and Android users, the app is a visual resource of participating venues, listing everything from LGBT-friendly bars and clubs to fashion boutiques and hotels. The idea is this: members can check out any of the listed venues on their own, then rate their experience of it for other members to read up on. A light pink rating means the venue can do with more gay-friendly improvements, while a dark pink rating implies

a highly satisfactory experience. Members earn points that can be redeemed for free gifts and coupons when they submit reviews. Besides informative ratings, Pink Dollar also features upcoming LGBT events in the city, as well as promotional retail offers specifically geared towards the gay community. Current participants include trendy bars like Honi Honi (3/F, Somptueux Central, 52 Wellington St., Central, 2353-0885), swank hotels like the W Hotel (1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 3717-2222), and membersonly venues like Kee Club (6/F, 32 Wellington St., Central, 2810-9000).

Big Buddha

BIG BUDDHA — One of the world’s largest Buddhas, the Tian Tan Buddha took 12 years to build and sits on a lotus throne atop Lantau Island. The more than 200 steps to the top are open from 10am to 6pm daily and definitely recommended for the spectacular mountain views. Special admission tickets are available and include a vegetarian meal. Also check out the nearby Po Lin Monastery and the Wisdom Path. Take the MTR to Tung Chung Station and then Bus 23 to Ngong Ping. CHI LIN NUNNERY — An oasis of peace in the heart of Kowloon, this graceful, wooden Buddhist nunnery is the largest building in the world to be constructed using no nails—only wooden dowels and brackets. It’s a 23,600-square-meter complex whose architectural style dates back to the Tang Dynasty, although the buildings themselves were completed in 1997. It’s centered on a courtyard filled with lotus ponds. Vegetarian food is available. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1888. CONVENTION AND EXHIBITION CENTRE — Finished in time to host the handover ceremony in July 1997, the center’s roof was designed to look like a seabird’s wings in flight. 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai, 2582-8888. HONG KONG DISNEYLAND — Take a trip back to the 1900s on Main Street, catch a train to Fantasyland, float down the Rivers of Adventure, catch a show or blast through outer space in Tomorrowland. When you’re done charting your exotic surroundings take a moment to dine, shop or cavort with the various Disney characters who roam the park. It’s easy to get to via MTR, bus or car. See park.hongkongdisneyland. com for transportation details. Lantau Island, 1-830-830. A P R I L 2 014 I W HERE H ONG KO N G 35

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HONG KONG DOLPHINWATCH — Catch a glimpse of the pink dolphins, an animal so unique to these waters that it was named the official mascot of Hong Kong’s 1997 handover. Tours depart every Wed, Fri and Sun from the Kowloon Hotel in Tsim Sha Tsui at 9am, or from Tung Chung. The cruise takes up to five hours, and if no dolphins are seen, the company provides a free “go-again guarantee.� $380 for adults, $190 for children under 12, $50 for babies under 3, with proceeds going to dolphin research. Call 2984-1414 or visit www.hkdolphinwatch.com.

SAM’S THE MAN

HONG KONG ZOOLOGICAL AND BOTANICAL GARDENS — Home to 12 endangered species, the zoo successfully breeds rare birds and orangutans. Established in 1871, the park retains all the Victorian accents from that era and is an idyllic spot in the middle of the city. Admission free. Open daily 6am-7pm. Garden Rd., Central. A staircase from Upper Albert Rd. leads to the main entrance.

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OPEN-TOP BUS TOUR — One Big Bus day tour ticket includes 24-hour hop-on-hop-off access to the red tour (Hong Kong Island) and the blue tour (Kowloon), as well as prerecorded commentary in 10 languages and other perks. Unit KP-38, 1/F, Kowloon Star Ferry Pier, Tsim Sha Tsui, 3102-9021.

Peak Tram

PEAK TRAM AND VICTORIA PEAK — The world’s steepest funicular railway hauls passengers up Victoria Peak in approximately eight minutes. Once at the top, enjoy panoramic views of the city, or check out the restaurants, shops and various attractions at the Peak Galleria and Peak Tower. The tram runs daily 7am-midnight, tickets $28 one-way, $40 round trip. Garden Road and Cotton Tree Drive, Central, 2522-0922. SIK SIK YUEN WONG TAI SIN TEMPLE — This active Buddhist temple is large and colorful with beautiful adjoining gardens. Have your fortune told by palm readers in the main arcade. Open 7am-5:30pm. A small donation is expected. Follow signs from Wong Tai Sin MTR station. 2327-8141.

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Man Mo Temple

MAN MO TEMPLE — This temple was built in 1847 to honor the God of Literature, Man Cheong, and the God of War, Mo Tai. A Grade 1 historical building, it is one of biggest tourist attractions in Central. 124-126 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan.

Star Ferry

STAR FERRY — Cross Victoria Harbour between Hong Kong Island and the Kowloon Peninsula on the Star Ferry. These open-deck ferries are one of Hong Kong’s most recognizable attractions and a common, cheap—and pleasant—form of transportation. Take the MTR to Central or Tsim Sha Tsui and follow the signs.

Ngong Ping 360

NGONG PING 360 — Home to a theater, teahouse, nature center, cultural themed village and more, Ngong Ping 360 is best known for its 5.7-kilometer cable-car service that offers panoramic views of Lantau Island’s lush valleys, the South China Sea and the world-famous Tian Tan Buddha. Start from Tung Chung Station, 3666-0606. OCEAN PARK — Pay a visit to Hong Kong’s two pandas, take a cable car, then prepare for a good scream on Ocean Park's Turbo Drop thrill ride. Remember to check out the Grand Aquarium as well. Aberdeen, 3923-2323. 36 WH E R E HO N G K O N G I A P R I L 2 014

ST. JOHN’S CATHEDRAL — A beautiful cathedral built in the shape of a cross. Open daily from 7am to 6pm for quiet prayer and meditation. Take the MTR to Central Station Exit K.

Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery

TEN THOUSAND BUDDHAS MONASTERY — One of the most celebrated monasteries in Hong Kong, the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery actually has more than 12,800


NAVIGATE

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Buddhas stored in three temples, four pavilions and a five-story pagoda. The one that you’re likely to remember best is the mummified Buddhist monk Yuet Kai, who sits in splendor, coated in gold leaf, inside a glass case. Light meals are served at the on-site vegetarian restaurant. Sha Tin MTR, Exit B, 2691-1067, www.10kbuddhas.org. TAI O — This charming fishing village is a maze of stilt houses built over a creek on the very tip of Lantau Island. It’s a fascinating slice of old Hong Kong, with dried fish stalls, the picturesque Tin Hau Temple and a couple of interesting little museums. Take a ferry from Central.

EMBASSIES & CONSULATES Argentina 2523-3208; Australia 2827-8881; Bangladesh 2827-4278; Belgium 2524-3111; Brazil 2525-7002; Canada 3719-4700; Chile 2827-1826; China (China Travel) 2853-3888; Colombia 2545-8547; Czech Republic 2802-2212; Egypt 2827-0668; Finland 2525-5385; France 3752-9900; Germany 2105-8788; Greece 2774-1682; India 3970-9900; Israel 2821-7500; Italy 2522-0033; Japan 2522-1184; Korea 25294141; Laos 2544-1186; Malaysia 2821-0800; Mexico 2511-3305; Netherlands 25229200; New Zealand 2525-5044; Pakistan 2827-0295; Philippines 2823-8501; Peru 2868-2622; Poland 2840-0779; Russia 2877-7188; Singapore 2527-2212; Spain 2525-3041; Sweden 2521-1212; Switzerland 3509-5000; Taiwan 2530-1187; Thailand 2521-6481; Turkey 2572-1331; United Arab Emirates 2866-1823; United Kingdom 2901-3000; USA 2523-9011; Venezuela 2730-8099; Vietnam 2591-4510.

FINANCIAL MATTERS Generally, business hours are weekdays 9am-5pm, with a lunch hour from 1pm2pm, and Saturdays 9am-1pm. The local currency is the Hong Kong dollar. There is no central mint; instead, notes are issued by three separate private banks and the city’s Monetary Authority. The Hong Kong dollar is pegged to the US dollar at a rate of approximately US$1 to HK$7.79. Denominations include $10, $20, $50, $100, $500 and $1,000 notes. Coins come in denominations of 10, 20 and 50 cents, and one, two, five and 10 dollars. BANKS — Major banks are open weekdays 9am-4:30pm, and Saturdays 9am12:30pm. Banks are closed Sundays and public holidays. Some services, such as foreign exchange-related transactions, are not available at banks one hour before closing. The following details are for the banks’ main offices, call for retail locations: Bank of America, 41/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance St., Central, 2847-5222; Citibank, Citibank Tower, 3 Garden Rd., Central, 2868-8888; HSBC, 1 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2233-3000; Standard Chartered Bank, 4 Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2886-8868. A P R I L 2 014 I W HERE H ONG KO N G 37


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WALKING TOURS | The Guide

An EverChanging Landscape Walking through Wan Chai, you’d never know that 100 years ago, you would have been standing in water. Follow this guided walk and stroll through land brought into existence by separate reclamation projects, plus the nightlife district made famous (or infamous) by Suzie Wong.

Y Start at the Wan Chai MTR Station, Exit A3, and cross Johnston Road.

Tai Yuen Street Market

The Blue House The Blue House, listed as Wah Tor Hospital in records dating back to 1872, was also known as the Wah Tor Temple and is believed to be the first facility to provide traditional Chinese medicine to local inhabitants. This is about where the coastline was from 1842 to 1890.

study and is said to have helped traders and fishermen avoid natural disasters. Open 8am-5:30pm daily. Y Cross Queen’s Road East and head down Tai Wong Street East until you reach Johnston Road.

Southorn Playground

Y Walk back down Stone Nullah Lane to Queen’s Road East, and turn left.

Old Wan Chai Post Office

Experience the hustle and bustle of a local market where on-street hawkers sell a wide range of dry goods and household merchandise at bargain prices. Stalls are open from 7am to 7pm daily. Y Walk straight up Tai Yuen Street, then turn left and walk along Queen’s Road East to Wan Chai Road. Cross Queen’s Road East and turn onto Stone Nullah Lane. 38 WH E R E HO N G K O N G I A P R I L 2 014

This single-story, L-shaped building, constructed between 1912 and 1913, was once a police station. In 1915, it became the Wan Chai Post Office. Listed as a Declared Monument in 1990, it is now a resource center belonging to the Environmental Protection Department. Y Continue along Queen’s Road East.

Hung Shing Temple Once only a small altar on a boulder overlooking the shoreline, this petite temple is named after a virtuous official who governed during the Tang dynasty (618-906 AD). He encouraged scientific

This popular playground was built on reclaimed land just north of Johnston Road. The British Navy used it during World War II. Later, in the 1950s and 60s, schoolchildren had their lessons here, and laborers gathered waiting for jobs. In the 1950s, it was fenced off and became a government-sanctioned playground. Now you’re where the coastline was from 1930 to 1945.

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Y Cut across Southorn Garden to Hennessy Road, then walk along Luard Road to Lockhart Road.

Lockhart Road The “World of Suzie Wong” and the bars of Wan Chai are now mixed up with trendy restaurants, bars and late-night party places. The coastline extended up to here from 1960 to 1972. Y Walk along Fenwick Street towards the water and cross the footbridge.

Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts This institution offers professional training in the performing arts and hosts a wide variety of concerts. Y Follow the directional signs and cross Fenwick Street to reach Harbour Road.

Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre One of the city’s most unmistakable sights because of its gull-shaped roof. Land was reclaimed in 1980 to build it. Y Follow the directional signs, turn left and walk northward along FlemingRoad and Expo Drive East to Golden Bauhinia Square.

Golden Bauhinia Square The “forever blooming bauhinia,” standing on the Expo Promenade outside the convention center on land reclaimed in 1990, is a gift from the central government to commemorate the establishment of the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region on July 1, 1997, after the handover from Britain. Nearby stands the Reunification Monument. Catch the official daily flag-raising at Golden Bauhinia Square from 7:50am to 8:03am. An “enhanced” flag-raising ceremony is held on the first of every month from 7:45am to 8:13am. It includes a party and performances by police bands. Y For more Hong Kong walks, visit www.discoverhongkong.com or call the HKTB hotline on 2508-1234.

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30 THINGS WE LOVE about Hong Kong 2

1 Shopping at Times Square. 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay. 2 Marveling at the beautiful Chi Lin Nunnery, the world’s largest building constructed without nails. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1604. 3 Slurping oysters for brunch at Café Deco. 1-2/F, The Peak Galleria, 118 Peak Rd., The Peak, 2849-5111. 4 Dining aboard the kitschycool Jumbo Floating Restaurant. Shum Wan Pier Drive, Wong Chuk Hang, Aberdeen, 2553-9111. 5 Spotting endangered white dolphins with Dolphinwatch off Lantau Island, 2984-1414. 6 Exploring Lamma Island, then feasting on deep-fried squid at Rainbow Seafood. 16-24 First St., Sok Kwu Wan, Lamma Island, 2982-8100. 7 Snaking through the high-rises on the Mid-Levels Escalator—the longest in the world. Cochrane, Shelley and Peel Streets, Central.

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8 Riding the cable car 5.7 kilometers over Lantau’s lush valleys to visit the Ngong Ping cultural-themed village and the Big Buddha. 9 Watching the sunset from tranquil Pui O Beach, Lantau Island.

!0 Taking a walk down the Historic Trail at the Museum of Coastal Defence, 2569-1500. !1 Eating with the locals at a dai pai dong food stall. Gough Street, Central. !2 Getting a shave and a trim at the Mandarin Barber. 5 Connaught Rd., Central, 2522-0111. !3 Being fitted for a tailor-made suit. Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. !4 Buying noodles and having our palms read at the Temple Street Night Market, Yau Ma Tei. !5 Sipping on signature cocktails while taking in the spectacular view at Aqua Spirit. 30/F, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288.

42 WH E R E HO N G K O N G I A P R I L 2 014

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!6 Cruising Victoria Harbour on the Duk Ling, an authentic Chinese junk. 2573-5282.

@3 Buying witty chinoiserie at Shanghai Tang. Shanghai Tang Flagship Mansion, 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333.

!7 Being entertained by the intriguing performances and exhibitions at the Fringe Club. 2 Lower Albert Rd., Central, 2521-7251.

@4 Taking a walk in Hong Kong Park. 19 Cotton Tree Drive, Central.

!8 Taking one of the oldest rides in Hong Kong—a tram from Western to Causeway Bay. !9 Haggling with hawkers for jade, gold and cheap jewelry at the Jade Market. Kansu and Battery Streets, Yau Ma Tei. @0 Dressing up for high tea at The Peninsula. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-3169. @1 Taking the Peak Tram to visit Hong Kong celebrities at Madame Tussauds. Shop P10, The Peak Tower, 128 Peak Rd., 2849-6966. @2 Doing some late-night shopping on Sai Yeung Choi Street, Mong Kok.

@5 Snacking on egg tarts at Tai Cheong Bakery. 32 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2554-3475. @6 Seeing our animated favorites come to life at Hong Kong Disneyland. Lantau Island, 1830-830. @7 Stopping for tea at Fook Ming Tong Tea Shop. Shop 3225, 3/F, The Gateway, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-1077. @8 Spending the afternoon at a mall. Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8900. @9 Marveling at the Symphony of Lights over Victoria Harbour. #0 Checking out the old Kowloon-Canton Railway clocktower. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui.



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